Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
My dream costume is being worked on right now. An embroidered jacket, slashed silk petticoats and a coat from the early 17th century. We have been plotting for about six months now...the embroidery has begun and now I am in search for the perfect silk. Yes, I am spoiled! Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician Deredere Galbraith wrote: I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an interesting question. What would be your dream costume? If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise. _ See Fireworks On Live Image Search http://search.live.com/images/results.aspx?q=Fireworksmkt=en-caFORM=SERNEP ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1432 doublet - fastening?
I'm not sure about the lacing up the back idea with period garments...haven't seen any in early period garments, side back lacing in later, Rennaisance, garments, and not until the 17thC centre back lacing... But I could be wrong. Kelly - Original Message - From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 3:05 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1432 doublet - fastening? What you are wanting isn't a doublet, I believe it is a cotehardie. variation (scroll down) http://www.bymichelle.com/pp2123.html info http://www.geocities.com/ariedin/Men.html This is not a period I am an expert on but I believe that a few of the men's cotehardies were laced in the back but I an not 100% sure of my memory on it. De -Original Message- Hi, I'm just up to make this doublet (or whatever it's called): http://www.kazi.webz.cz/wagner/images/wag01-28.jpg It's the second one from the left. It's taken from Medieval costume, armor, and weapons, but originally it comes from the Wenceslas bible and it's dated to the 1432, Bohemia. I would like the doublet to follow the shape of the body, not very tight, just a little, but not too loose. My question is - how can I achieve this WITHOUT a fastening? Is it possible? How tight can I do the waistline when the man's chest/bust is around 100cm? Do you know any tricks about this? It might not be possible to do it without fastening, so my second question is, where would a fastening for such a garment be? (I don't want the front fastening). On the back? Or was there any at the sides? What would be used? Lacing? Buttons? Hooks and eyes? Anything else? Many thanks to everyone who could give me some advice:-) Zuzana - Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] was... New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern, now fit in period clothing
Thank you Melusine! I have a huge problem with the gianormous armholes modern people feel they need in period clothes...but then I also have a problem with the loose fit of period clothing on a lot of modern interpreters. They feel that proper period clothes are too hot. This just isn't the case, if they are made of proper materials, and aren't uncomfortable, or heavy, if fitted properly to the body. Kelly Gives a more period look, but maybe is not so comfortable or easy to fit for today's folks. This is counter-intuitive, but the more fitted the armseye, the more movement you have, as long as the sleeve head rests on the point of the shoulder. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
I would say it's an afternoon dress for going out in, definately not evening attire. Evening dresses of the period had open necklines and short sleeves. Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 15:53:28 -0700 I would appreciate some feedback from the list members on this item that is nagging at me. The Autry Museum here in Los Angeles has just opened a new exhibit called California Style: Art and Fashion from the California Historical Society. Here is a link to the museum's main page: http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/ One of the items they are using to showcase the exhibit is right there on the front page, a red velvet dress circa 1883. Here's a link to the page on the dress itself: http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/california4.php The thing that is really nagging at me is they keep calling it an evening dress and it really isn't an evening. You =might= get away with calling it a dinner dress, but not an evening dress proper. Granted, I'm a costumer, so I tend to notice these details, but that mis-identification seems pretty blatant to me, and I was wondering if it struck anyone else that way, too. Thanks for your input, Julie PS - This isn't the first time I've encountered the mis-identification of a costume at the Autry. Several years ago they had two dresses on display in the front lobby that were very clearly mid-1850's, and yet the card identified them as 1873. Trust me, no way were these dresses from 1873. They were made from very delicate muslin, stamped with a geometric floral pattern, full bell-shaped skirts, without even the slightest hint yet of even the elliptical shape that was to come in the 1860's, let alone a bustle silhouette (and no, they weren't displayed wrong). They both had straight waists, no curve or point at all, long bishop-type sleeves ending in a buttoned cuff. One buttoned down the front, one hooked down the back (lovely cartridge pleating on both dresses), and so on. There was enough attention to fashionable detail that the person who made the dresses did =not= make them 20 years out of style. I put a comment card in at the front desk and some time later actually received a call from the person who (ostensibly) donated the gowns to the museum. Said they were made by an ancestor (great grandmother or something like that) who made them when she first came to the US in the 1870's. I'm afraid I argued with him, cited several standard costume texts that he could reference for comparison, mentioned all the points I stated above, but he was...unconvinced, shall we say. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Check Out Our List Of Trendy Restaurants. You'll Eat It Up! http://local.live.com/?mkt=en-ca/?v=2cid=A6D6BDB4586E357F!378 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] continuous steel boning
Are you looking for spiral steel or straight steel? I've used the spiral steel in the curved seams of a Victorian coset with really good results. I order from Greenberg and hammer in New York city. Kelly, in Nova Scotia Canada Hi, Does someone know where can I buy steel continuous boning (7mm or 1/4 inch) that could be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've ordered it from Sewingchest, but it was too stiff, it couldn't bend easily. At for ex. Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but not the right width. I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me, too. Thanks, Zuzana - Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?
Try leading strings...lappets were lace extensions on the back of ladies caps in the 18th century. Kelly, An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets? Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 08:27:02 -0700 Do any of you know of some sources which discuss the pieces of cloth (typically from the shoulder or sleeve scye) hanging from a child's costume? I need some reference material to support my discussion and can't seem to find anything specifically in my books. I have always referred to them as lappetsmaybe this is why I can't find the reference? You can see it in the following picture. http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=6259302223530010 Or http://tinyurl.com/3y4vr6 It makes sense to me, and I seem to recall they were used to hang on to kids. This one shows a rope attached to the small child. http://tinyurl.com/3eyaqz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Free Alerts : Be smart - let your information find you ! http://alerts.live.com/Alerts/Default.aspx ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif query
Matthew Could I have a copy as well? [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thank you so much! Kelly Any chance I could get them too? Anne (back to lurking) If you e-mail me off-List, I'll scan-in the pages from my own copy of Before The Mast and download them to you a jpg files. YIS, Matthew, isolated by sea from the SCA mainstream, in the island of Old Jersey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
What is it with Home Ec teachers??? I suffered a similar fate. I had to take Home Ec as I was female, shop was strictly for the boys. I had been cooking and sewing for years before hand. I managed to fail all three years, the teacher thought I was taking my sewing projects home for my mother to do...she thought there was no way a 12 year old could sew, so well. I managed to get past this setback though...thank God the credits didn't have any effect on me graduating, and went on to take Costume Studies in University and have made a career for myself! I often wish there could be a reunion though, so I could go back and tell her what I had accomplished! Kelly! An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician Yeah. I'd been sewing for several years when I took Home Ec. My teacher measured me and measured the pattern and said that I wore a 14. I told her that, no, I wore a 10. But she was the teacher, and (of course) she prevailed. I made the dress. We could both fit in it . *sigh* jerusha - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Your Space. Your Friends. Your Stories. Share your world with Windows Live Spaces. http://discoverspaces.live.com/?loc=en-CA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
Why would you worry so much about matching the plaid? I could see it in the back seams of the bodice and the centre front...but for the skirt? Yes, it seems like an awful waste of fabric. Kelly On Feb 2, 2007, at 7:26 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 12 yards @45 for the dress? 12 yards It's plaid. It's all matched. All the horizontals match (roughly). Cutting it is going to be wasteful. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R (Kevin's) ...remaining .sig trimmed for better message/.sig ratio ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Construction Thoughts on Surcoat/Outergown?
Saragrace Knauf wrote: more ideas on the construction of the surcoat or outer gown (OG) on this outfit. http://saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_PAMPics.html My quandaries with this OG are this. 1.) Is that a collar lying on her shoulder? This is best seen in the first picture in the second row. My two cents CDN? I don't think this type of coat would have a falling band stlye of collar. I am of the belief that it would have a high 'half' collar, that would be full height in the back and disapear towards the front, to allow lacing of the ruff, or supportasse for a falling band collar of linen. I have yet to see a falling band collar made of the same fabric as the garment, but I am open to being proven wrong on this one. Both Norah Waugh's Cut of Women's Clothes and Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion have this type of surcoat pattern in them, from original garments...I would go with those two references first and foremost, beyond going and looking at the garments yourself. I'll be cutting one of these soon for myself, I'd love to see finished garment pics of yours when you are done! Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] ot/cat on a hot tin roof
I had that kind of day yesterday...a day of waiting for things to arrive so I could work. Unfortunately, I was at work, so couldn't even work on home projects! Keep plugging along with that hoop, it'll be beautiful when it's done. Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] ot/cat on a hot tin roof Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 13:01:47 +0100 Do you know how it is when you know the post wil come to you today with a packet of things you have longed for a long time? I have it like that today. Awaiting a large packet with cotton laces from a scottish lace factory. I have ordered home for more than 700 pounds sterling and i cant get much made today. And then the work you have to do is so tedious and uninterresting. Marking in the rows for crinoline steel in a hoop. This time i want to try and make the hoop with padded panels along the top bones, in order to keep the tension of the side extensions nice and smooth for the skirts. I have looked very close after a fashion print of Galleries des Modes where a millinery lady is delivering goods, amungst other things a hoop wich she carries under her arms. Also the small hoop from VA has padding, so i guess its ok to do it. When i get my laces, i think i am going to explode of excitement. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Dont waste time standing in linetry shopping online. Visit Sympatico / MSN Shopping today! http://shopping.sympatico.msn.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Christmas gift exchange
My secret santa overspent! Holy Cow, I so do not feel worthy of such a wonderful gift. Corsets by Valerie Steele, a lovely set of embroidery scizzors in copper tone and a handmade case for them! WOW! BTW, the deadline for next years foriegn gifts should be at least two weeks earlier than most, my gift will probably arrive late :-( I will know better for next year! Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas gift exchange Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2006 20:55:27 -0600 (CST) And as long as we're now posting ... My exchange partner picked up on two of the things I mentioned that I collect, and sent me (1) a wonderful brochure from a National Gallery show on 15th c. Flemish art that I am missing (it's on till Feb. 4, 2007), and (2) a jigsaw puzzle of a page from the Lindisfarne Gospels! I love them both. What did everyone else get? I trust the very light and fluffy package I sent has arrived to its recipient ... I will let her post on her own. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Off to school, going on a trip, or moving? Windows Live (MSN) Messenger lets you stay in touch with friends and family wherever you go. Click here to find out how to sign up! http://www.telusmobility.com/msnxbox/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
She has the same shape my dolly does when i have the wheel farthingale and outfit on her. I think it's just the style of the underpinnings Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions! Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 16:00:47 -0700 I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPGhttp://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round. Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else? Do you think she is pregnant? Seems a little low for pregnancy. Thanks! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Enter the Telus Mobility Xbox a Day contest for your chance to WIN! Telus Mobility is giving away an Microsoft Xbox® 360 every day from November 20 to December 31, 2006! Just download Windows Live (MSN) Messenger to your IM-capable TELUS mobile phone, and you could be a winner! http://www.telusmobility.com/msnxbox/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
ooopsie! Yup, I meant 1930's Kelly In a message dated 12/2/2006 12:22:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: , 1030's era with a fishtail ruffle down the back. And an evil response to what I assume is a typo--did they do fishtails in the 1000s? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Right now, it's a dress from Janet Arnold's book, 1030's era with a fishtail ruffle down the back. I was mid ruffle when my husband emailed from sea to tell me the party went from formal to casual...haven't worked on it since. It may now become a short coctail dress, with the ruffle ending at the back 'V'. Kelly - Original Message - From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 2:58 PM Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? It's that oh so fashionable time of the year. Holiday parties, gifts, theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve ensemble What are you working on? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
Good Morning Bjarne! First off, yup, I agree with you, they are a bit too big around the bust. I think you could take them in along the side front curve and that would work nicely. It may also push her breasts together a bit, giving her more cleavage. I have a question though...Is she wearing them with a bra in that photo? If she is, it will throw off your fitting entirely. She should have a chemise to wear underneath, that's all, then the stays can do their own work. This may also be why she believes they fit her. Have a great day! Kelly - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 5:52 AM Subject: [h-cost] kyoto stays again Hi, I would like to have your oppinions about the fitting of the stays on my lady. My lady wich also sew for herself, says they fit perfect, but i am not sattisfied. When you look at the profile picture, you clearly see that the stays are two big at the tip of the breast.. I would remake it, by reducing the front piece at the curved sides at the armhole, this would push in the front a little more. Am i wrong? Please take a look its here: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm Many thanks for your response Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
Funny how this comes up today! Last night on 'Naked Archeaologist' the show was about the colour blue in ancient times. How it was produced from the snail. The trick to getting blue from the snail was to expose the dye to sunlight. The ultra violet light produces a very vivid blue, if not exposed the dye will come out purple. I thought it was fasinating. There is also quite a controversy in some sects of the Jewish faith over the use of snails or cuttlefish to produce the dye. The archeaological evidence suggests snails though, due to the amount of snail shells at dye sites. How they suggest the dye is made rotten dried up snail caustic soda boiling water sunlight I am not a dyer, so I don't say this would work, I also don't know the quantities of each. It was interesting to see them dye the fibre though...when it first came out of the dye pot it was yellow, then once rung out of liquid and probably exposed to the air turned blue before their eyes! Discussion? Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] On another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the colour blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith and all the spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren paintings. _ Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more then map the best route! Check out Live Local today! http://local.live.com/?mkt=en-ca/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dress type
It looks to be to be a Robe a' l'anglaise with an en fereau back. Most of the bodice is cut seperately from the skirt, except the narrow centre back piece, that one is cut one with the skirt. The pieces are then all stitched together as a dress, kinda like what you would do if it were a sacque. hope that helps Kelly - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 4:35 PM Subject: [h-cost] dress type I have finally found a propper picture to show. This is a painting of the view over the thames. Its from the mid century. You can clearly see that the ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in the back. I have seen this type of dress in many danish paintings two, yeat this type of dress is never spoken of in any history books. So i ask you! Please take a look at this painting wich i uploaded, it is cropped just to show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so its not the best quality. What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt, or is the skirt attached to the bodice? I am so curious to hear what you think! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...
It's a waist to crotch length problem, if you sit the trousers where you want them to sit in the crotch, then mark a new waistline, moving the waistband down, you'll fix that problem. It's one of those looks that seems popular today, but because of my training, drives me crazy! Kelly - Original Message - From: Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 2:37 PM Subject: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ... On a Lady, if the front of the pants buckle as if there was a 'package' there but there is not cause it is a lady ... how do you fix that? Is it a hip fitting problem? Is it a waist to crotch length problem? Help ... Chiara ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] organ/pipe pleats
Hiya, You are thinking along the same thoughts as me on the shaping to achieve the rolled look without the horizontal pull, I can't wait to see finished pictures, so few people do this time period! As for the stuffing and possible ridge line, if you allow for the most stuffing at the point where the skirts meet the bodice and gradually decline the amount of stuffing further down the pleat, you'll avoid a ridge. I would make a roll of cotton batting, then add graduating layers of flat batting to the skirt panels before you roll the pleats, so that the dress has a layer of batting, the rolls would then be inserted as you form the pleats. I hope I make sense. Good luck on finishing! I'm there too on a major project... Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician E House writes I'm also worried about avoiding a ridge where the stuffing ends; I want the skirt to fall naturally to the ground, rather than going out while over the stuffing, but straight down where the stuffing ends. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
Thank you Bjarne! I hadn't noticed that one! Kelly - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 3:37 PM Subject: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time. Hi, Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel farthingales was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls. The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a little, and found this quote! 1617 Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!) Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse? Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels? That shelter all defects from head to heeles. Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams. Whale bone wheels.. How about that? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
Robin, How did you build your roll/wheel in the end? I was liking the idea of a wheel farthingale, but can't seem to get the right look yet. I have a wheel supported by a large roll, but the outer edge collapses. Kelly - Original Message - From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 4:20 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time. On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel farthingales was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls. For those who came in late, some of the conversation is preserved on my webpage, here: http://www.netherton.net/robin (Every time this topic comes up, people ask for these posts, so I put them all in in one place.) And later conversations can be found by looking in the h-cost archives. The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a little, and found this quote! 1617 Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!) Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse? Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels? That shelter all defects from head to heeles. Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams. Whale bone wheels.. How about that? That's indeed one of the small handful of citations Verna and I collected when we did our original research on this topic (which I do intend to get into print in the next few years, now that I have a place to publish it, but I have another paper to do first). It also has the distinction of being the first reference to a wheel that we could find, and the only one that dates from the period in which the style was worn. (The next one, from a play, is from 1664, and makes passing reference to the long-outdated fashion of wheel vardingales.) Given that it's a satirical poem, using metaphor and picturesque language, I think we have to consider that the use of the word wheel could quite easily have been a logical reference to the visual effect of the style, as perceived by the viewer, rather than its construction. The term does not seem to be used in tailor's bills, inventories, or other documents written by who made, bought, or wore the garment -- those have large numbers of references to rolls, but never wheels that I've seen. (I will confess that I am relying on other people's research into such documents for these references; I haven't done the inventory-crawling myself. I do have a standing order for such references with various friends who have their heads in these documents, in case they spot any.) I suspect also this reference, or possibly the 1664 one, may be the source for English-speaking costume historians of the 18th and 19th centuries calling this a wheel farthingale -- so we have to be careful about circular logic. That is, if Strutt in 1792 said this is called a wheel because of two mentions in literature, and thus costume historians have since then assumed it was *built* in the form of a wheel, we don't want to now say that the same citations (the source of the term) prove the assumptions people have created based on that term. Of more interest is the reference to whalebone. We know that whalebone was used in corsets at this point. There are some inventory references to whalebone being bought and used for farthingales, too, from at least the 1590s and later. However, it does appear that whalebone was also used in the construction of rolls. Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts describe rolls made of such fabric as damask, buckram, taffeta, and holland cloth, stuffed with cotton wool, and supported with whalebone, bent, or wire. (For citations regarding materials used in farthingales, see Arnold, _QEWU_, p. 196-198, and the Cunningtons' _Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth Century_, p. 161). A 1588 essay by Montaigne, as translated into English by John Florio in 1603, also mentions stuffing in combination with stiffening, referring to stiffe bumbasted verdugals (bombasted meaning stuffed, so these were clearly rolls). (Montaigne is also quoted in Waugh, page 28.) None of the references specify just how those supports/stiffeners were used. They may have been used inside the roll to help hold its form, or they may have been placed on the surface. Verna and I found that boning around the outer channel of the roll was useful but not necessary; we didn't try boning on the inner edge (that is, against the waist) or as an interior support. It may be that the need for interior boning would become more obvious with constant wearing of a farthingale, something we have not done; I can imagine that a farthingale with a circular bone around the edge would hold its shape better over time. So we aren't sure about how the stiffening material is used in the rolls. What is clear, though, is that whalebone was used at least sometimes in rolls. The
[h-cost] Deadwood
I think that if they were so willing to get the costumes right, they would have gotten the language right too...sorry, didn't get to see much of this series, was too put off by the extreme use of VERY modern foul language! Kelly I can think of one program, or a series of programs, that may have gotten it right. I'm thinking of Deadwood, the series on HBO following the history of the Dakota Territory mining camp, Deadwood, set in 1879 and on. What impressed me was the extensive research that was done on the show that is reflected in the sets and, to my untrained eye, the costumes. What is everyone else's opinion of this show? Marjorie Marjorie Gilbert author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England www.marjoriegilbert.net Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Deadwood
I don't have an objection to foul language, it has it's place, it was the word they were using I had a problem with...I highly doubt certian words were used that frequently at that time! I could be wrong, but I doubt my grandfather would have used some of those words at any point in his life. Kelly - Original Message - From: Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 3:57 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Deadwood I have wondered about the language. I don't know that foul words are modern at all. Anyone else know? Sylrog On Sep 24, 2006, at 11:41 AM, kelly grant wrote: I think that if they were so willing to get the costumes right, they would have gotten the language right too...sorry, didn't get to see much of this series, was too put off by the extreme use of VERY modern foul language! Kelly I can think of one program, or a series of programs, that may have gotten it right. I'm thinking of Deadwood, the series on HBO following the history of the Dakota Territory mining camp, Deadwood, set in 1879 and on. What impressed me was the extensive research that was done on the show that is reflected in the sets and, to my untrained eye, the costumes. What is everyone else's opinion of this show? Marjorie Marjorie Gilbert author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England www.marjoriegilbert.net Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Deadwood
The website that was posted gave us many answers... Cunt - Use of cunt as term of abuse for a woman is a 20th century sense. From Frederic Manning's 1929 The Middle Parts of Fortune: 'What's the cunt want to come down 'ere buggering us about for, 'aven't we done enough bloody work in th' week? So no, the word used is not appropriate for the time, and yes, if we have access to a website like this one, surely the writers of the show did too. But it's not really worth arguing over...producers of TV and movies are going to do what they like with costume and language...bummer, but true. Kelly - Original Message - From: Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 1:41 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Deadwood Nor my grandfather :) (I NEVER heard either of them ever say a single swear word, let alone the two 'popular' ones in this show), but you've got to remember this town was founded by a lot of people who were NOT the quality of folk who were raised in the best of surroundings and mostly uneducated and to them it was just what they grew up with A site of possible interest: http://www.wordorigins.org There are some things I surely don't want to be to accurate about in my re-enacting! kelly grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't have an objection to foul language, it has it's place, it was the word they were using I had a problem with...I highly doubt certian words were used that frequently at that time! I could be wrong, but I doubt my grandfather would have used some of those words at any point in his life. Kelly - Original Message - From: Sylvia Rognstad To: Historical Costume Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 3:57 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Deadwood - Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Deadwood
Gack! Yes... Kelly From: Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Deadwood Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 15:23:36 -0700 (PDT) Sooo true. Nice to be able to use that 'creative license' clause isn't it :-) Kelly Grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The website that was posted gave us many answers... Cunt - Use of cunt as term of abuse for a woman is a 20th century sense. From Frederic Manning's 1929 The Middle Parts of Fortune: 'What's the cunt want to come down 'ere buggering us about for, 'aven't we done enough bloody work in th' week? So no, the word used is not appropriate for the time, and yes, if we have access to a website like this one, surely the writers of the show did too. But it's not really worth arguing over...producers of TV and movies are going to do what they like with costume and language...bummer, but true. Kelly Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. Dr. Seuss Our greatest glory is not in never failing, but in rising up every time we fail. Ralph Waldo Emerson - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
Hi Allison, Off the top of my head, I'd say that venetians should be full at the top, I've seen them with cartridge pleats or flat pleated, but either way quite full. The knees are quite tight to the leg though. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus Many of you mentioned the possibility that the bottom half of the outfit - breeches or skirt - will help hold out the tabs, but I am not so sure - venetians aren't that full up top, are they? I think I may well add a layer of canvas for more oomph. Thank you for your answers! Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
The tabs look great to me, in fact the whole doublet does. I think that when you are fully dressed, your bottom half garment will create the look you are after in the tabs. They just need that stuff underneath. Will you be wearing petticoats or venetians? Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 21:03:22 -0400 I have a question about the size/shape of doublet tabs/skirts on men's doublets ca. 1600-1610. Some background: I'm making a linen canvas doublet for rapier fencing, based loosely on the one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 (page 82). Apart from the fabric, it also has a pointed front (because I'm made that way - my navel lies below my natural waistline) and corded body for extra impact protection. Here are some pictures of my progress thus far. The tabs are basted on, and though it's not visible there's a linen canvas lacing strip beneath: Front: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00059kk8 Back: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00058xfp My question is primarily decorative. According to the dimensions given in Arnold and my eyeballing, it seems like each of the tabs should be roughly the size of my hand, give or take a 1/2 or so, which these are. I opted not to pad them with the cotton batting I used elsewhere because I thought it would add bulk without much stiffness. However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing it doesn't look right to me; I think I might be comparing it in my mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period. Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's 16th century? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1690s undergarments
The shift should have just a rectangular collar like a man's shirt. The other stuff is a stock, basically a long hemmed strip of linen that's tied around your neck. You start with the centre of the strip at the front neck, cross in the back and bring it around to the front and tie it like a cravat. The slit on the shift neck opening could also have ruffles down each edge to add to the general floufiness. Hope that's what you were asking for! Have fun! Kelly - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 6:47 PM Subject: [h-cost] 1690s undergarments Hi guys! I just bought this pattern: _www.reconstructinghistory.com_ (http://www.reconstructinghistory.com) (_http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/ridingoutfit.html_ (http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/ridingoutfit.html) ) . So far it looks great, but it doesn't include the undergarment, which I'm going to assume is a high-necked chemise with a collar like a man's shirt. Can someone show me what kind of collar I need for this look? The version I'm making is from 1692 France; it's the one on the right in that link, with the foofy hat. (What? Isn't that the technical term?) :) Tea Rose ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
I am agreeing with Dawn on these two books, not sure about the third, I don't own it. The Survey of Historic Costume comes up to modern times, I think the late 1970's/80's and has quite a bit on modern fashion that should be helpful when tying the course into the rest of your fashion program. I would suplement it though, as it's just a survey and doesn't go in depth on any one era or culture. Maybe a suggested reading list to go with the textbook and class notes. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus Laver, J. Fashion: A Concise History. Thames Hudson 2002. Survey of Historic Costume, 3rd edition, by Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank Any of those ought to be a good start, supplemented by the teacher's notes, of course. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts)
While I totally agree with the dislike of 'Waisted Efforts', it is for other reasons...the lack of important information. Bob Doyle uses many different methods in his work, but leaves out crucial information in both this book and his latest on Tailoring. I have always drafted corsets from blocks, I was taught the full method while at school, and have never had a problem. They do the job very nicely. Probably a stupid question, but how do you all develope the pattern for the different corsets you do? Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts) Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 07:34:58 -0500 I've seen this book, and I didn't care for it for the very same reason. It seems counterintuitive to try to make a corset from a pattern block. There's an entirely different principle at work--a different kind of engineering, if you will. It seems to be a book for people who want something that looks like a corset but doesn't actually function as one. Also politely disagreeing, Melanie Schuessler Lavolta Press wrote: The idea that simply disagreeing with someone about something is rude is absurd. As for _Waisted Efforts_: Although I make corsets I've never drafted one from a pattern block. But one thing I can say about that book, is that it seriously needs editing and proofreading. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com E House wrote: The rude comment part referred to my criticism of corset patterns developed from a pattern block as seen in Waisted Efforts--unless someone with a great deal of skill alters the pattern, the result is almost always all wrong. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Pattern making books
The Metric cutting system books by Winifred Aldrich! Amazing books! There's one for men, one for woen, and another for childern. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Michelle Plumb [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Pattern making books Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 12:06:00 -0400 Hello, all. I've been sewing for myself for a long time, and decided it might be time to make a few of my own designs. I never follow sewing patterns to the letter anyway, they're just a launch point. Can anyone recommend good pattern making books? Thanks, Michelle ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat
Dirty Billy hats! His prices were reasonable the last time I ordered from him, and from time to time he carries a variety of straws. Kelly - Original Message - From: REBECCA BURCH [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 10:18 PM Subject: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat Would anybody know of a good source for a reasonably priced Straw Boater or Bowler Hat? My father recently joined a barbershop group and would like to have one (either or - doesn't matter). He is not dedicated enough to need one of the $100 ones that all seem to be imported from Italy, but he definately needs better than the $5 Halloween costume. Under $50 would be my preferance. Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
I put all of my costumes away for a few years, in the attic closet. I took a very long break (6 years) and am only now feeling inspired to head back out! Kelly - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 4:21 PM Subject: [h-cost] What do you do? What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at? When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two? What is left then? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th cent movie
Barry Lyndon was filmed in period interiors, with extant clothing and by candlelight. One of the best films Kubrick ever made! Kelly - Original Message - From: Mia Dappert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 2:07 PM Subject: [h-cost] 18th cent movie Oh Barry Lyndon one of my favorites very 18th century, and all the scences look like they came right out of 18th century artists minds... 18 cent Mia in CHarlotte NC,, pretty hot, pretty wet, but not as wet as further north. Just back from Williamsburg, VA. We stayed in one of the tavern roms that Williamsburg rents, and it looked just like a Hogarth etching, you know, the harlots or Rakes progress, one of the later one's with stays and such strewn aboutyou would like it there Bjarne, but it is less courtly, and more boisterous as befits life on the frontier. - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Neck Ruff
For my latest ruff, I folded the fabric in half, lengthwise, pleated it, and sewed the raw edge by machine to hold the pleats. I then stitched the neck band on, sewing the inside edge first, then hand tacking the outside edge so it looks hand stitched. I tend not to use lace, as it would have been cost prohibitive for my persona. Then I starch the ruff, with corn starch in a heavy boiled solution. I form the ruff with a 2L pop bottle and let it dry. Some re enacting groups are very fussy when it comes to modern things. Stuff like horsehair, fishingline and such will stand out like a sore thumb in some situations...there is such a thing as too perfect. I would suggest contacting the group to find out the situation they will be in, looking too new may also be an issue. Have fun! Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus You do the hem by hand. Or if you're putting lace on the edge, use a narrow tiny zig zag that will not show unless someone has a magnifying glass. You can even overcast a plain edge with a narrow tiny zig zag and that will look like a rolled hem. As for horse hairstarch the ruff instead with fabric starch [in the box or bottle] or use wig lacquer. Or use some starch and zig zag over the right weight fishing line [you can do this when you do the hem] to keep it buoyant. I've never know a formal ruff that didn't need a little tacking or something to keep the 8's neat. Of course in Italian Renn you often see a very informal box pleated ruffle [not really a ruff] peaking up above the doublet collar edged in some waynarrow lace or some needle work on the edge. A tiny black edge can look quite fetching... especially if it has some kind of delicate picot. There's no reason this would not also be seen in an Elizabethan setting. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1775 outfit
Looks Yummy! Even in cotton. Are you going to embroider it? Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 1775 outfit Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 17:26:53 +0200 Hi, After i had made my sloper, i couldnt waite to get started with draping on it. So i tryed my best to make a cut after a photo of Gustav III's Celadon Suit. Gustav had some suits made in Paris because he was going to visit Catherine the Great and its one of these suits i am trying to make for myself. I have succesfully draped the jacket muslin, and i have made my sleaves after the old construktion methods, sitting high under the sleaves, and with movement of arms without lifting up the suit. It is my hope that i will be finishing this suit before a ball in august with the gustavians. The year of the suit is 1775, where the jacket is even more cut away in the front, the side skirts are reduced in size two and the center back is more narrow. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/li.htm Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] WWI, was Victorian help?
Fran, Is there a book on the 19teen years in the works??? The other books are amazing sources of information, but I don't work in to Victorian era any more...looking for more information, always, but now looking into the first part of the 20thC. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform
Hi Penny, I think it's from a little later than 1860, and buttons in the front. That's just my opinion, before coffee though...I'll see what I can find. Kelly - Original Message - From: Penny [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 10:04 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform I saw earlier this week the thread What's on your dressform and didn't have time to answer. A lot has been on my dressforms during the past week. I have been photographing the fashion collection at Virginia Commonwealth University. I start teaching the fashion history class Monday at the university. I will be using some of the sturdier pieces in the classroom. The frial pieces are photographed to show the students projected from my laptop via a motorized screen. Some of the collection's costumes are misdated. Each archive box is like opening Christmas packages... you never know what you will find inside. A lot of fun! I found a bodice in a box named 1900. The bodice is clearly not from 1900, as were several other items in the box. I think it might be date from 1840s or 1860s. My class time frame is from 1860-1990. If this piece is from 1860, I can use these photos in my class. Would you all please look at some photgraphs of the bodice and let me know what time frame you think it is from. The center front and center back have a point at the waist. Front view: ( I didn't pad out the waistline curve to show the full point) www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010112.jpg Flat view of the inside of bodice: www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010111.jpg Flat view of the back of bodice: www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010107.jpg Thank you for your help. Penny Ladnier, Owner www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
Jane, who lives at work, is wearing a series of 1915 blouses, finished another one yesterday...Judy, who lives at home, is fortunately finally naked! After a very long project, it's finally done and I may take the summer off...holy crap, did I just say that??? Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring? Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 10:19:17 -0700 I'll confess first: Euphrosnia wears one of the ever popular Eleanor of Toledo knockoffs that so many of us are doing. It will be deep red velvet with gold garlands grenadines. I have to redo the skirt as the back pleats dont lie smoothly. Adonis is wearing a c1605 velvet doublet that needs a collar. For some reason, he also sports a black fox stole c1940. --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction
I think most modern people have both a healthy skeptism about advertising, and an awareness that fiction (including films) is not reality. I would have to disagree with you on the 'most modern people' part of your statement. I think that history nerds, of which I am a proud member ;-), are in the minority. Why else would Hollywood have the balls to make the new Titanic movie that is comming out this summer...the one where they find Jack Dawson's body frozen in a block of ice at the bottom of the North Atlantic, bring him to the surface, thaw him out and he's perfectly healthy! I saw the trailer the other night...look for it, but try not to gag! We had enough problems at the museum with the first movie...here goes round two! You would not believe the things people say. Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction
Same trailer, but not the same site...thank Christ! it's a fake... Kelly http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vD4OnHCRd_4 You mean the fake trailer? These are clips from previous movies (I definitely spotted a Romeo and Juliet shot) and mention of the warm liquid goo phase comes from the first Austin Powers Movie. I'm not sure, but it may have been an April 1st joke or a tie in with the release recently of the extended version of the original movie. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 361
I read an interview with James Cameron, in which he said he invented Jack There really was a Jack Dawson, he worked as a stoker, I believe, and is burried in the Titanic section of the graveyard around the corner from us. You'd be surprised to know how many people think that it is the same Jack Dawson from the movie, his grave is covered in flowers every year! ;- The piece of flotsom that the character Jack holds on to when in the drink was modeled after a piece of the Titanic that we have in the museum. It was picked up in the days following the disaster. I thought the clothes were great, and the cinematography was fab...the plot on the otherhand left a bit to be desired. Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction
No worries, I caught what you meant ;-) Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 10:21:09 -0700 Sorry, I meant you _don't_ have to be a history nerd to be skeptical of advertising. Or even a science nerd. Fran Lavolta Press wrote: kelly grant wrote: I think most modern people have both a healthy skeptism about advertising, and an awareness that fiction (including films) is not reality. I would have to disagree with you on the 'most modern people' part of your statement. I think that history nerds, of which I am a proud member ;-), are in the minority. You have to be a history nerd to be aware that a new toothpaste probably won't change your life just because the ad says so; etc. Fran ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
If it's a lower class chemise, why not cut out the mouldy bits and patch them. Adds character! Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Purple Elephant [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Mouldy linen Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 20:12:17 +0930 Hi all, I wore my favourite lower class chemise for cooking a feast a few weeks ago and flung it in the laundry basket. Since the weather's been rather rainy here lately it stayed there a while, and it must have had something wet up against it. Anyway, the other day I took it out and put it in the wash and didn't notice until I hung it out that it was mouldy - it has big patches of black red and yellow speckles all over the back. Obviously washing hasn't done anything. Any suggestions for getting rid of the mould, or am I just going to have to make a new chemise? The chemise is actually a linen-cotton blend, a fairly sturdy fabric. Claire ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
It's difficult to tell from the line drawing. Do you have access to a photo of the original stays? I would hazzard to guess, that with the rounded tip to the strap, that the artist was looking at a laced strap, just didn't draw in the eyelet. By the way, it looks fabulous! Where do you get the wiessner boning? I'd love to try some for my next stays. Kelly - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 6:36 AM Subject: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays. Hi, Im trying to make the stays with the laced stomacher 1740-50. I found a lovely silk brocade for this in a period collour. The pattern has not laced shouder pieces. Do you think they were just sewn finished? Anyway here´s a link: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut
That looks fabulous! Just what I imagined bliaut to look like in person! Very cool Kelly - Original Message - From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 12:38 PM Subject: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on. Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] re: GFD fittings, etc.
Actually, by putting bias to straight in the mid 19thC they created a hoop that would balance itself, and a skirt that would flow away from the legs when walking. Pretty cool. A lot of our modern clothing construction method were developed in the 19thC. Some seriously inovative cutting to upholster the body. Kelly Later 19thC skirts through often go straight to slant. I suspect this has a lot to do with aesthetic appeal as you can see it looks neater when you have stripes;) There is a perfect example of it in PoF 2 of the early 1870s. michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
God forbid, stores cater to the older than 20 crowd! If this idea were to actually fly, how many women would take up the shopping hobby? I'd like to see what sort of percentage of women are these stores missing by continuing to ignore this market. I for one would love to be able to go into any store and find something girly, and fashionable to buy off the rack! Kelly, who wears boys levi jeans and t shirts most of the time...bummed out by the lack of fashionable clothes in her body type...and I'm not a very large person! Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus Clothes That Fit the Woman, Not the Store By MICHAEL BARBARO Published: March 31, 2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Elizabethan doublets, hooks and eyes at waist
Well, I'm constructing one, and am almost at the point where I have to decide what to do about lacing the doublet to the waistband of the nethergarment. (petticoat, venetians) The style I am working on has eyelets right through the skirts to point the two garments together. I have seen hooks and eyes being used too. The thing is, a friend of mine and I are wondering why have hooks and eyes on a lacing strip that already has eyelets worked on it. See figure 152 page 24 of Janet Arnold's patterns of fashion. It says Metal eye stitched to lacing strip inside waist od doublet in fig 146. A selvage cut from the satin is used to neaten the seam just above the eyelet holes. Hooks and eye are the new method of supporting the breeches and soon replace points. Why would the tailor use both? Maybe because the doublet was worn with a new pair of breeches? I'd appreciate any comment on this, I am curious to hear your ideas. Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Daughter of Charity cornette
From what I know of the habit, all the layers of the headdress would have been starched, including the cap. My Anut is a member of the sisters of Notre Dame and wore the habit until the late 60s, she lost all of her hair because of the starch! Kelly I saw a request on another list for instructions on how to make a Daughter of Charity cornette--sometimes called a butterfly headdress or sailboat headdress. Some folks call it the Flying Nun headdress even though it's not the same as used in the TV series. I know I tried finding instructions a few years ago but came up empty. There isn't a motherhouse here in Atlanta either to contact. I emailed someone in Emmitsburg but they didn't have instructions either at the time. I am looking to recreate a DC habit for a reenactment group here as a Civil-War era nurse but the cornette is the only thing I haven't figured out how to do yet. I do imagine it would require very starched linen over a cap. Anything would help. Thanks, Debra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Can you help me find a similar fabric?
There is a merchant on EBay that sell church brocades. His prices are reasonable, and the fabric is yummy. Check fibre contents though, some are highly polyester and may not be suitable for your project. We found some good blends that are nice and heavy and have really good drape for period clothing. Kelly My daughter loves this fabric at http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/images/C16th/Eliz2005.jpg . Does anyone know where I can find something similar and not too expensive? Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topic: drawstring necklines on chemises
Hi Monica, I'm wondering where her sources come from...how old they are. Karl Kohler era costumers have been passed as almost biblical until recently. This might be why she thinks the shifts were drawstrung. I would offer her the portraiture you've been looking at and have a good discussion about this topic. Good luck! Kelly Anyway I have never seen anything about a drawstring that is Medieval or Renaissance. As a matter of fact something I read said it was the result of the I need 100 chemises fast mindset of the original Ren Faires. The chemises I have seen--- and this is only in paintings, mind you-- show no indication of a drawstring in the neck-- either a high neckline or low neckline. Can anyone help me on this? My professor friend has said she found a reference in several books but is more than willing to look at what I find , and change her lecture, as necessary. We both hate the idea of disseminating incorrect information to students. Thanks a bunch-- Monica Spence (Catriona MacDuff in the SCA) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Ruffs
That and you lose out on the fun of washing and starching ruffs...something I actually enjoy doing...kinda little and boring an can be done on my own time. kelly Straw stiffener, what you use on millinery straw (and hats) to keep it in shape, is pretty effective, and transparent. Use in a well ventilated room though - it can have odd effects. Suzi But what does it feel like against the skin? I'd expect it to be very irritating to have something stiff under my chin like that. Regular starch is resilient enough to not be too irritating. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Ruff
I personally like to starch after it's constructed, then the starch doesn't break down when being handled and I can shape the ruff the way I like. Kelly - Original Message - From: Shane Sheridan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 12:30 PM Subject: [h-cost] Ruff It's Sunday morning, and the caffeine has not yet percolated its way into my brain, so here's a possibly silly question: is it a good idea to starch the fabric of a ruff *before* or *after* you sew it together? Sheridan P. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The Change Hand Fans
Both of the Mums in our household are going through the change, we have hand fans stashed everywhere in our re enacting kit! Most of them are the sandlewood variety. Kelly Okay ladies... how many of you have had hot flashes and found that your hand fans are your new best friend? Maybe a new trend for us going through the change! Penny E. Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
I was thinking shoulder strap too...It sound like you may have to unpick the strap seam, and take up the front shoulder at an angle from it's original, not touching the original back shoulder seam. You may also want to interline the bodice with your interlining cut so the shoulder strap is on the straight of grain. Kelly On 3/3/06, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3 into the bust, Yet another possible cause, the shoulder strap wants to lie slightly outside or inside of where it was designed to go. You may have to release the side CB seams, then pivot or slide the section until the straps lie right. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
Hi fellow corset makers, When making a corset for a person I start with a block pattern of that person. A good book is Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting. In it there is a full body block for dressmaking, which you will need to use to go over the hip (the bodice block stops at the waist). Draft the block, then manipulate it. Close the darts, reduce the amount for the desired cinch, and *then* use the period patterns to create the garment. By scaling the pattern up, you will create a garment for a person who was in stays from a very young age, and so has a different body shape than our modern bodies. It will be uncomfortable to wear, because it doesn't fit your individual body shape. By making the block, all the fitting problems are solved when you fit the first block, long before you get to the staymaking stage. You can also use that fitted block to create all your garments, they will fit *you* properly. Well worth the effort, and the $60 for the book. The book covers almost everything you will need for women's clothing, and now there is a men's version! Amazon has them on sale, when you buy them together...I just bought a set for the museum, so I don't have to carry a heavy book bag everywhere I go. Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
I'm not sure what a block is. Is that the same thing as a muslin? Susan, the uninformed It's also called a sloper, a fitting muslin, if I catch your train of thought, would be the same thing. Basically a fitted basic darted garment that reflects where your body is. Once you have that garment( and the fitted pattern), you can create just about any type of clothing you want, and it will fit you without fussing with every pattern you want to make. You also don't really need to buy comercial patterns, you can work from the design, if you understand how you need to manipulate the basic pattern. Aldrich's books will give you a lot of cutting information so you can reach the period look with very little manipulation. Hope that makes sense, and I haven't offended anyone. I'm just really keen on people not being frustrated with their clothes anymore... Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy desire
Hi Rebecca, The program I went through at Dalhousie University in Halifax NS Canada, is a two year Diploma or a you can now go for a full degree program. (I'm heading back this Fall, to complete the degree, while I teach in the Dip program) The Diploma is all you really *need* if you want that little piece of paper, and the two years cover everything you would need to learn to make historical costume. The program is geared to historical and theatrical costume. The degree program has extra classes as per a regular degree (soc, theatre history, electives...) and is geared to those wanting to further their academic careers. The career, as in a lot of life, is a lot of hard work. You will always be looking for that next job or contract. The hours are long and the money not so much there! You really have to love what you are doing to work in the field for very long, the burn out rate is extremely high. I have been working for 15 years, though, and this past year has been my best and most inspired! I hope for another 15 just like it! I am lucky though, in that my family supports me in my art, both financially and spiritually. Pierre is my Gibralter, Mum is my lighthouse. Kelly Hello, again. I've been lurking for the past couple of months and wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing what I want to do I wonder how you got there. Any words of wisdom? Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Netscape. just the net you need ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
Umm, scandalous idea...why not early 17thC, Venetians and a boring ol' doublet? They would be in the rightish time period for black powder(cannon). Fencers are already wearing that time period, even though most in the SCa do not approve. It isn't a very poufy time period, he'd still be wearing pants. Just a thought, if it works so that your husband will come out and play with you Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus So, my husband has sorta kinda hesitantly mentioned that, seeing as there are occasionally cannons present at SCA events, he might be interested in attending at some point. I now have the job of finding clothing that he can stand to wear. Ye. (Incidentally, if I were to go by the period of history and the area that he'd be most interested in, it would probably be 16thC Swiss, but... from looking at the clothing? Not gonna happen.) -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost]Redwork,
My first Guess would be that it was miss named, either recently and is in fact Queen Mary, or sometime in history and has been recently discovered to be Bess of Hardwick. Kelly Why does the painting have Maria Regina written on it? Just curious, Anne http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.0.0/266 - Release Date: 2/21/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)
My Show will be costumed and acyed by those in their final year in the Theatre program at Dalhousie University in Halifax. A bit of a commute for you, maybe ;-) The clothes already are being pulled together and look great. I'm looking forward to seeing it. This has been the season of very emotional plays. A tough year on all the students, and they are thriving! Kelly - Original Message - From: Mary [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 2:14 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear) One of the local theater groups in Santa Rosa, CA, is also doing Urinetown. Is this yet another production, or is this being costumed by one of you? If the latter, it gives me even greater incentive to go. :-) ~mary (Sorry for the late reply, I got behind on this list and I'm still trying to catch up) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 20:00:20 -0400 From: Kelly Grant Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the same sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week! Kelly From: Cabbage Rose Costumes Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800 Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the depression era? Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s. I am doing a production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period. (It's actually the future, I believe). I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my inspiration. As always, thanks in advance. angela + Angela F. Lazear Cabbage Rose Costumes www.cabbagerosecostumes.com Theatrical Costume Design «:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:» Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick wicked. ~ Jane Austen Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time. I think I've forgotten this before. ~ Steven Wright ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt
Sorry for taking so long to reply to this. I chose Janet Arnold's method of making the wheel because it uses the least amount of fabric. This has been a pet project of mine for some time. I believe that if you had to weave the fabric yourself, then you wouldn't waste any of it. So a lot of my theories are based around trying to come up with a cutting method that has little watse fabric. I like how Ninya uses the short bones down the centrefront edges though, and will try that out as mine are collapsing at the moment. I also need to make yet another bum roll, mine *still* isn't large enough! If I can talk my spousal unit into some web work this evening, there will be more photos up soon. I know how to make web pages, but this is his thing, so I have to wait for him ;-) Kelly/estela - Original Message - From: WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 11:26 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt Yeah! I am so glad to see someone else doing these types of gowns. In doing A Suitable Gown for Her Majesty *http://tinyurl.com/87qbb * we also chose to put the corset front under the farthingale. Now the front of this farthingale is flat. In my research I found some wheels depicted as being rather sharply tillted to the back but more often they were not, which made me wonder if it wasn't the artists way of trying to show what was going on behind in portraiture. Many of the effigies with smaller wheels are pretty flat, which gives a prettty good 3D idea of what they looked like. Ninya Mikhalia on the other hand looks like she places most of her's on the outside. http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/wheelfarthingales.html I didn't care much for Hunisett's wheel construction. I made several up, but chose to go with Ninya's way of doing them. Unfortunaely when doing a flat front the tension isn't great enough to keep the fabric nice and taut, so I chose to cover the cotuil with a little batting and the silk. I look forward to seeing more of your work! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] colonial
There are two gowns here in our collection at the Nova Scotia, made from the same, or similar fabrics, one is in it's original condition, the other has been remade to the end of the 18thC fashions...very cool. It is my hope to one day take patterns from them both, you know, someday when I have a bit of time! ;-) Kelly in NS - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 3:26 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial In a message dated 2/17/2006 12:37:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Is it just me, or does anyone else think that someone had a go at remodeling it to suit a much later fashion? That would certainly not be uncommon. It is extremely difficult to find an 18th century gown that hasn't been re-modeled, as the fabric was so expensive! In fact, a curator friend of mine says that an 18th century gown in its original condition would be the Holy Grail of costume finds. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cavelier clothing, was 3 musketeers
God! I wish I lived closer to you all! It would be so cool to be able to discuss this time period over a cuppa, 'round a campfire. I am the only one in this area who does this time period and often miss my hardcore re enacting days. Great conversation. Kelly in NS Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Carmen Beaudry [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 01:57:01 -0800 No, I haven't found it a problem either: after all, the high waist of the Cavalier style isn't as extreme as that of the Empire line. I'm long-waisted, but I make my bodices come down to my lower ribs and wear my bumroll round my waist. It sits on my hipbones and supports the waist of my skirts level with the bottom of the bodice. I wear a corset with my best dress, but for ordinary Living History I'm thin enough to get away with bodices lined with strong fabric and lightly boned. Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor You know, my current theory is that probably a good many women wore corsets under their dresses, and some women had boned bodices or boned linings in the dresses, and maybe some of them wore both. There's several ways to get the correct line and without existant garments we really don't know. I'm also pretty sure that lower class women didn't bone their garments as much as the upper classes did, but again, we probably won't every know.So, I look at as many pictures as I can find, read as much written evidence (wills and other records) and then try my own theories to find what actually works in wearing it. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern
Of the Smoke and Fire patterns, I would choose stock #RHF-701 for the shirt and #PI-775 for the trousers. While at the Halifax Citadel, who recreates the mid 19thC, we made clothes similar to these patterns. I did make confederate jackets for a couple of the guys to go to Gettysburg the big year. They wore them as 'undress' jackets with basic civi trousers and shirts, they went with the 'Authentic Movement' guys, the movement guys were impressed with their turn out. The pattern I used was from CountryCloth/Chas.R.Childs it was very good, the only thing I did was raise the front neck to a natural curve. I believe that he took a pattern from an existing garment, similar to the ones we had at the Citadel. The undress jackets will scoop out in the neck as they are worn due to the fact of the wool they are made of, without any stabilizing interlining. Hope that helps, if you have any questions, ask...I lived in that time period for several years ;-) Kelly in Nova Scotia Susan wrote: Check outhttp://www.smoke-fire.com/pattern-shop.htm Lalah wrote: of the conflict I was researching. I have a multitude of pictures of Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to start with. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] colonial
Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted. So I wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting edge to edge at the centrefront. I wish they had taken the time to mount the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-( If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period, also Louisbourg National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time period a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details. Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact them for a copy. For those who are interested in this era, come join me and a few hundred others at Louisbourg's Grande Encampment this year! Kelly/estela - Original Message - From: Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 2:11 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial Ooo...look what I found. http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm De I LOVE this website! I know that they show the details to help sell the clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever get to study garments like these in person. Thanks so much for sharing! I am trying to design my wedding gown which will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can about construction techniques. This new colonial dress will be a big help. Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
Oh so true Bjarne! I picked this time period to dress myself for SCA because of my rediculously high waist! It's the only time in history that I have the body type for! I have the quintessential Rubenesque body, I can't imagine keeping the bumroll that high if I didn't. On most folks you would have to tie the roll to the stays, the skirts are heavier than they look! Kelly The reason why i want the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the dress waistline is so high over the natural waistline, that it simply couldnt be tied arround so high, without slipping down emediately. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
That is quite a bit longer than I had imagined when I first read your email. Hope you weren't offended by my first response. I'm thinking that a gown that long would have to be held up when walking...perhaps the fashion that's depicted in Jan van Eyck's 'Marriage of Giovanni Arnolfini', in that painting, the dress is held up in front by her hand. I know that it's earlier than Tudor, but I've heard that the style held on for a good amount. You've got me thinking now! Kelly This image is direct, and shows what I mean. http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/assets/main/95_137_main.jpg I had always presumed that the outer gown was longer or the same length than the kirtle worn underneath, yet that seems to not be the case in this effigy, and apparently, in English gowns of the time. The kirtles shown in the effigy are very long, over the feet long, as in they would be a few inches lower than the ground long when you are standing. I don't follow how the skirts would be constantly pooling around your feet when you are standing and walking, and not trip a lot. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
Not sure why the 'gown shorter than the kirtle' idea? Can you explain? As for the length of dresses seeming long, we in the modern era walk differently than ladies of the historical era would have. If, when you are walking, you let your toes drop to a relax point when stepping forward, it is difficult to step on your hem, as you push it away with the toe of your foot. There is also a little half kick/ swirl movement to move your back hem (which is sometimes trained) out of the way when you turn around. The only time I ever lift my skirt hem is when I'm climbing stairs. Kelly/estela - Original Message - From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:29 PM Subject: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking Hi all, Forgive me if you've seen this question on another list before, but I didn't get any response, so I was hoping those learned folk here would be able to provide some insight. I've been looking at the online effigies database (http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies), and was struck by the views of the women's garments from the 1520s to mid 1530s. Most images of that time frame don't go below the waist, so it's very nice to be able to view the feet, and bottoms of the kirtles and gowns. But when I see that the kirtles are flowing over the feet, I have to wonder. How do the ladies in the earlier Tudor (Henry VIII) era walk when their kirtles seem to be longer than they are tall? Examples are: Oakley woman (unknown) c1520 http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=81 Edith Pexall née Brocas (c1535) http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=95 Did they always have to lift all their skirts up to walk? Were they meant to be worn over farthingales, but just didn't wear the farthingales for the effigies? (I'm not even positive if farthingales were worn in England during this time frame.) I see dress hooks holding up the front of the gown, but what about the overflowing kirtles? Is it something else entirely? I also find it interesting that the gown hems are much shorter than kirtle hems. From the looks of things, gown hems appear to end above the ankles or so. I would love any and all comments, thoughts, or even speculation on this, please. Thank you, Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Fresno, CA, USA Lady of the Wardrobe for Isle of Mann Guild Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt
My Laurel in New York would put her hoop under the front busk too, I don't think there is a 'right way'. I have always done it this way, just my thing I guess;-) I have found that by putting the hoop under the busk, the hoop tilts a bit to the back. Because I have followed the Jean Hunnisett method of hoop construction until now, I find the hoop tilts a bit too much for me, and have gotten used to wearing my hoop outside the corset...I could be totally wrong. Thanks for the input! Kelly/estela - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 3:41 PM Subject: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt Hi, I am following your projekt with great expectations: http://www.goldenoakinn.com/projects_estela.htm May i ask you one thing. What happens if you take your front busk of the corset on top of your wheel farthingale? I would, if i made a wheel farthingale dress, place the front busk over the wheelfarthingale. But perhaps i have made a mistake, what does others do? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
The waistcoat looks late 18th Century to me. the vibrant colours were popular then too, and if pack away from light for the last couple of hundred years, would retain it's colour. It looks in fabulous condition! I would lightly vacum it, with a low power vacume like ones used in museums, but that's all before packing it away properly. cleaning often confuses people into washing it in water, which might damage the garment. No matter the condition, it shouldn't be worn any more. At the end of the 18th Century, fashions were becomming inspired by the near east. Archeaoligical digs in Egypt and expansion into the Medeterrianian and Eastward by England were influencing a new Classical era. That may be why you feel it's inspired by India. Looks yummy! Kelly in Nova Scotia - Original Message - From: katherine sanders [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:36 AM Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice Hi everyone! I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who think they have more of a clue than north european, possibly 17h century I'd be very happy to answer queries on them. More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early 19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The construction is well illustrated by the photos as is the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from light and other clothes in an acid-neutral environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by India but I couldn't tell you why... http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/ They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you can help :-) Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Photos - NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
If you have a wool hat, it's incredibly easy to steam it to the shape you want! You need to find something that will be a good shape for a block, like a flower pot. Make sure it's a good size to match your head size. Remove all the addition hat stuff from inside the felt, like the hat band and such. Then using you kettle, steam the inside of the felt and then pull it down over the block. Keep trying until you get the desired shape. the felt will move around quite a bit! Have fun! Kelly in Nova Scotia - Original Message - From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: H-Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 10:48 PM Subject: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat I'm going to try and make a Tudor Style tall hat with the pleated crown. I went to the local GoodWill and they had a hat that fitted perfectly of 100% wool felt. Problem is that it is a domed crown rather than square. Is there a way to steam that crown and get it fairly fat? I intend to play with an thick interlining that I have to get the brim shape, then I'll cut the actual hat brim. Does this sound reasonable, or does it sound like it will be more work than simply creating the under-structure out the interfacing and paper and going from there? Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey Never attribute to malice what can as easily be attributed to simple social ineptness ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown
What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the same sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week! Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Cabbage Rose Costumes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800 Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the depression era? Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s. I am doing a production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period. (It's actually the future, I believe). I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my inspiration. As always, thanks in advance. angela + Angela F. Lazear Cabbage Rose Costumes www.cabbagerosecostumes.com Theatrical Costume Design Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech... W. Shakespeare ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but if you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still have the 'look' you are trying to achieve. I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he felt the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get a good fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently. The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of mine, is to practice the movements and excercises of the period. Mark taught Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the city. When I went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the shape of his body pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was exciting for both of us to see the way we move in different ways from our historical counterparts. Good luck on the new draft! Kelly in Nova Scotia Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100 Hi, Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question. It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of myself. I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion because that is so wrong and ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like these cuts in the book. I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible.. It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
Hi again Bjarne! Take the period draft and the portrait you want to use as you inspiration with you when you go to the dressmakers or tailors...this will help them to help you with cut. It's always better to have someone else do the fitting for you...I'm at this stage almost now, I will soon have the petticoat done and will be ready to fit the doublet. I'm going to do the draft for the doublet, make a mock up and have Robert fit it on me. Then I know it will fit, and all I'll have to do is stand in the mirror! Good luck, we want to see pictures! Oh and I think two suits over three days will be fine, paack lots of changes of linens(shirts and such) And you should be fine. I usually bring three times the linen I think I'll need and half the dresses. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus There are small shops here in Copenhagen who takes commision jobs of sewing jobs like mending or remade old things. If i bring them my mock up, i could have them help me to fit it better.. I will do this in the future. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Hi Bjarne, modern men have larger arms and armscyes due to different types of physical activity, for the most part...yes there were occupations such as farmers and carpenters, but the upper class gentlemen took part in different activities. please don't feel bad about the fit of your armholes. I thoroughly believe in the muslin fitting block, then using the well fitted block to create your pattern, much like you do with women's clothes. I really like the book 'metric pattern cutting for menswear' by Winifred Aldrich. Use the Close fitting casual jacket block on p 16, shape a side back seam through squaring down from point 17, starting at a point 1/2 way between points 14 and 16, shape a nice curve hitting the line squared down from point 17. To shape the back shoulder seam,square a line up from the chest line at the front armhole. From point 8(the neck point) draw a line to the point where the chest line and that front armhole line meet(on the chest line). The line you have just drawn is your back shoulder line, cut the rest of the shoulder off and twist it around to the front shoulder so that the old shoulder seams meet and tape the paper seam together. The pleats of your coat should sit at the high hip, I usually drop this from the waist level between 5 and 10 centimetres, depending on the build of the man. The only problem I have found with any of Ms Aldrich's blocks is that the shoulder point is off the shoulder slightly on a lot of people. This can be taken out in the fitting, I think she used a selection of wide shouldered manikins to come up with her draft ;-) I hope that helps Let me know! Kelly in Nova Scotia Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100 Hi, I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of the english coat in Costume Close Up. It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size. The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly on me. I have to redy the cut. This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same problems? The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very much in comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because it pushes my shoulders so much backwards. I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits. Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles in the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them. This is very odd... Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at this point, but no... Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wool
Are you going to throw the jacket in the wash once it's made? That's usually my idea when working with any fabric. If I want to wash the garment in a machine once it's made, I wash the material in Hot water and dry in the dryer (unless I'm fulling cloth for an 18thC coat, then I full properly, not in the dryer). Wool is wonderful to work with, take a small piece of it and play with it before you sew your garment. It will streatch and shrink under steam and heat, it will go whereever you tell it to. Play with it first, then you'll get the feel of it! Kelly - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 7:25 PM Subject: [h-cost] Wool I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century pirate coat out of it. Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, wool was excluded from my sewing education. :) Tea Rose ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Queen Sophie's reconstructed dress
Just been surfing for information for my current project and came across this page http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/v1/person.asp?PersonID=12countryID=2PersonTypeID=2 with the portrait of Queen Sophie. Thought you might like to see it. Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Style, Nostalgic Needle, Sharon Cohen
I also thought it was a great site, but lacks ordering information... Please be careful with printed backgrounds under the text areas, the two together strobe to my eyes, not a good think for migraine sufferers or epileptics Kelly - Original Message - From: Red Bear [EMAIL PROTECTED] Very nice, only one point, the background color is a bit jarring. It's most likely just me, but some pattern back there would be nice. Stephen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tailor mannequins
They are the manekins we use at school. They are wonderfully sturdy, not squishy at all though, if you might be looking for something for squishing a corset on to. For tailoring, they are great, because they pull off their bases, and so can be laid down on a table to form the Hymos over. Kelly - Original Message - From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume List h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 12:29 AM Subject: [h-cost] Tailor mannequins Has anyone here have any experience with this company? I am in the market for a male, and if there are good reviews, a plus female mannequin. Even their heir base model looks pretty good. Price isn't too terrible, either for what you're getting. http://www.fabulousfit.com/ Any opinions or suggestions eagerly welcome. Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert It's never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it. -Ivan Panin __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Gestational Stays
Hi Kathy, First off, let me warn you not to wear stays during your pregnancy, please...I was told by my doctor, back in the way back machine (12 years ago) that they could very easily cause miscarrage. Since breast binding wasn't an unheard of thing, it is possible that they bound, just enough for support and wore looser clothing. I'm thinking to, that quite possibly they loosened their stays as they got bigger, until the point they couldn't wear them. There is also the possibility of a less heavily boned set of stays, much like the forerunner of the jumps, I haven't come across such a thing, but it is a possibility. As it was a very different time, I am sure they must have done things we would never dream of doing when pregnant, as in tight lacing...our bodies are differently shaped as well, from not being tight laced from childhood, so they may have gotten away with things differently then we can today. Kelly just my ramblings - Original Message - From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume List h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 11:31 PM Subject: [h-cost] Gestational Stays I'm doing a little nosing around on this subject. Another discussion offlist brought up the issue of support in the Elizabethan era during pregnancy. Is there any evidence of what women did while pregnant but not yet confined, for support? I'm sure the middle class couldn't afford a lengthy confinement, if at all. They had to do something while waiting for the end to come. I know there is a pattern from ohh.. I think late 18th early 19th c. out there, I'm wondering where they got the idea from. Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert It's never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it. -Ivan Panin __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stumpwork
Stumpwork Embroidery: Designs and Projects both by Jane Nicholas? If you or anyone else on the list has: what did you think of them for a beginner? Roscelin Hi all, I own the above book, and while I had done embroidery before, had never known of stumpwork before buying this book...it was one of those get ten books for a dollar deals through a book club. I fell in love with stumpwork, it was very easy to learn from the book, without even tackling an entire project. I tried some of the motifs I liked, practiced some of the stitches, and then using one of the projects as a guide, made my own first design. Yeah for Stumpwork! This month I plan on travelling to our nearest floss store to purchase silk floss for some projects up my sleeve...never knew what a difference silk floss would make, yum! Kelly/estela ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New BBC Elizabethan drama - Virgin Queen
Yes! Theatre is nutts! We've had shows with less lead time! That's when you pull in everyone you know, and even some you don't, you work 18+hour days, no days off, and you collapse at the end, hating the show, and never wanting to ever see the designer again! Yes, that was a big run on sentence. That's what life in the theatre is like...I don't go there any more! And don't ever think I like musicals, or ever want to listen to one...BLECH! Kelly ps: Good Luck! Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus Is it normal policy to start designing costumes with a 12 week lead time? I know nothing about theatre or TV, but I need 12 weeks to make an outfit for myself! Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pet hair
We have two right now, great grandson and son of our old boy Angus, who past away a couple of years ago. The son, 'pangur' is the great grandson's, 'sammie', great uncle. If that makes any sense...we also have a domestic heinze 57 who's the bigest of them all! Indie! Obligatory on topic note, I gave up ridding myself of cat hair a long time ago. I also have given up on keeping anything in my sewing room without closing it behind something, as Indie hunts everything in sight...including bolts of linen! Sammie, we got as a kitten. We weren't told that everything is a chew toy to Maine Coon kittens, luckily he has grown out of that habit! They are wonderful cats, and I would own more if Pierre would let me, but the next pet is going to be a dog...when Indie leaves us, he's epileptic and 'moved upstairs' when sammie came home. Estela Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus Okay, I'm officially enviousI've always wanted a Maine Coon. *sigh* ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need details
I like to make wool bias tape from something densely woven, then use it, with a facing of polished cotton for the hem...since polished cotton is difficult to get around here, sometimes I use wacky printed quilters cotton. First off, you make the hem facing, if your skirt is shaped, it will need to be shaped too...mine are usually cut from straight panels. I stitch it, wrong sides together, around the bottom of the skirt, about 1/4 from the cut edge. I then fold under the top edge of the cotton 1/4 and stitch it down, using a running stitch. Then you make the bias tape, I use about 1 widths. I fold and press it in half, lengthwise. Then encase the cut edges of the hem and stitch it down. In the late Rennaisance they used anything from Linen to polished wool to face their hems, women in the Victorian era were still facing hems. It makes sense as the facing is usually made of cheaper fabric, takes the abuse, and can be replaced often. When I worked at the Halifax Citadel, a Victorian era Fort, the dresses on the soldier's wives took a lot of abuse, hem facings would last three or four years, hem tapes would last two to three years. Hope that helps a bit... Kelly/estela 5. Is there a way to sew a prectector fabric for the lower hem for when it drags on the ground? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 17th century purses
I've been looking at one very much like purse #2! There is one almost identical in the VA, different wording and different coloured leather. I wonder if it was a kit? Kelly/Estela - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 11:18 PM Subject: [h-cost] 17th century purses I've been looking at recreating some accessories from the 17th century, and I found this great site for purses. http://www.museumofbagsandpurses.com/eng_1600.html I'm interested in numbers 3 and 6. #3 looks like it's made from a flat rectangle folded in half. Would that be correct? Could it be open on top, or would there be some sort of fastener? Does anyone have and idea what size something like this would be? #6 looks like it is made from 4 half-football shapes, probably lined, with drawstrings. There is a similar bag on the following page, (http://www.museumofbagsandpurses.com/eng_1700.html) heavily embroidered. Can anyone tell me what kind of embroidery that is? It kind of looks like cross stitch to me. Yet another in that style here: http://www.witneyantiques.com/flat.items/embroidery17lg.htm But I can't make out the type of stitches used. I suck at hand work, but I can do basic stitches if I know what they are. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to?
I would cut the sleeve with a shaped flare at the cuff to go over the hand, not the add on pieces. I like the look better, personally, without that extra seaming. But that's just my opinion! take it for what it's worth;-) Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Lena [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to? Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 14:42:28 + (GMT) Hi, I'm on my first attempt of making a gothic fitted dress. It's for a modern ball, so I'm taking a bit liberty with historical correctness. It's basically a MS Bodleian 264 dress, with a shallow wide neck opening and tight buttoned sleeves. The sleeves are supposed to go down over the knuckles with a small flare, which IIRC are a later development. Now, for my problem. What would be the easiest/best/authentic way of cutting the sleeves? I'm thinking either to cut the sleeve in one piece, with a flare at the end, and then insert a gore in the middle (i.e. where the thumb is when wearing the dress) to make the flare symmetrical, OR make an ordinary sleeve first and then add a (two?) curved piece for the cuff. Naturally, I'm behind schedule, so quick replies are very appreciated. /Lena (38 buttonholes to go... *shudder*) - To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sergers past topics
My hobbylock 784 was purchased about 15years ago, at the time it was well over 1000$, but I'm sure they've come down in price. It's been put through it paces working in several professional shops, carted back and forth to classes I've taught and is still running smooth and strong, with only a minor repair of a screw other than regular cleaning and timing check. It's relatively small for a 4 thread, and easy as pie to thread! Hope that helps! Kelly Size (must be small as possible, I have very limited space) Ease of threading Sturdiness (I am a theatrical costumer, so my machines take a beating) Cost (would prefer not to spend over $500) thanks! + Angela F. Lazear Cabbage Rose Costumes Theatrical Costume Design Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech... All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram W. Shakespeare http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
Up until recently...like the late 1960's, women didn't need underwear to deal with the products used during their cycles. Belts and rags were the choice of the day. Since skirts were worn by women, and their smocks, shifts, chemises were long enough to protect their dresses from any body dirt, along with petticoats, you don't really need underwear. But then men didn't really wear much in the line of underwear for the most part either. Their shirts would have been breeched up around their knarly bits to protect the inside of their breeches. Weird practice though, to my modern eye...why would you give up wearing underwear? Men were wearing braies very early on in history...why give them up? Ahhh! Fashion...it's a fickle thing! Kelly Since, I am a newbie when it comes to period underwear. What did women do during their monthly cycles? And why was it more common for men to wear underwear and not women? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] twice-turned dress
A twice turned dress would mean that the skirt was first taken off and flipped upsidedown, so the former hem is at the waist, then taken apart again and flipped inside out, or maybe the panels are sideways to what they were. Poverty sucks! But, often you could tell the stature of a woman, because she worn fabrics that could not be 'turned', the fabrics with large prints along the bottom, that fade to smaller ones at the waist, for instance, would be difficult to turn nicely. Kelly - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 6:51 PM Subject: [h-cost] twice-turned dress Martha Cratchet, in A Christmas Carol, is said to be wearing a twice-turned dress. This term is new to me. Does anyone know what it means? Thanks. Nancy Nancy Spies Arelate Studio _www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ (http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) Save the earth; it's the only planet with chocolate. But if by 'Liberal' they mean someone who looks ahead and not behind, someone who welcomes new ideas without rigid reactions, someone who cares about the welfare of the people -- their health, their housing, their schools, their jobs, their civil rights, and their civil liberties -- someone who believes we can break through the stalemate and suspicions that grip us in our policies abroad, if that is what they mean by 'Liberal,' then I'm proud to say I'm a 'Liberal'. John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept 1960 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
I had some serious issues with a lot of H Bohnam Carter's clothing in the episode I watched last night...What were those things on her head??? That and the shape of the dresses. The stays in this period would have been close to what she had on, but would have come in to her actual waist, while not chinching it. Her breasts totally disappeared in the bodices, they would have shown a bit, it looked like the bodices were biult for another actress who was much larger. The shape of the skirts also bothered me a bit...too linear, without any bell at all in some of them. But that's my opinion...take it for what it's worth Kelly - Original Message - From: Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 1:31 AM Subject: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham Carter as Anne Boleyn. I noticed that all her dresses go straight down from bust to waist, not pinching in at the waist at all, and making her look somewhat pregnant when she's not. While I realize this era's silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter. I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the actress's own shape (on the busty side)? Sylrog ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
Ahhh HA!( to quote a comercial on the local french network right now) Thanks for the insight, it explains a lot! Kelly - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:11 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII At 05:40 09/01/2006, you wrote: In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't think I've ever seen it pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter. I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the actress's own shape (on the busty side)? Ms. Bonham Carter was pregnant in reality when she filmed Henry Vlll, hence the rather odd costume shape. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett is the book, and should be in your local library. ;- If you have any questions, I'm sure a lot of us can help you out. Kelly - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 12:23 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise How might I get that pattern? Is it in a book I might find at the library? It seems I need to find the library that has all these costuming books. I plan a day to go over to Lancaster, PA to visit one of the libraries recommended for me. I'll ask my local library if they can borrow the ones we can find in the area. I appreciate the help. I know what I want to make just not sure how to MAKE it work. - Original Message - From: kelly grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across. Kelly - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too. - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote: I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful. Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has to be large for that character. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, but there are various methods that will work. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across. Kelly - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too. - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote: I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful. Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has to be large for that character. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, but there are various methods that will work. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
I have used them in the past, for Renn stuff and 18thCstuff. I like how the fabric drapes, very rich. Not sure I'd want to use this fabric if I were wearing the garment outside, say in Pennsic heat, or warmer. But for indoor events, and where I live, it worked out well. There's a photo of one of the dresses on my projects page http://www.goldenoakinn.com/projects_estela.htm scroll down to the bottom, it's Gavlinne's crown tournement dress. The 18thC dress fabric came from another supplier, long before EBay. It was covered in chrysanthemums, yummy, and made a really nice sacque. Kelly/estela - Original Message - From: A J Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 5:38 PM Subject: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics? I've often looked at the fabrics at http://stores.ebay.com/Renaissance-Fabrics and wondered if anyone here had used them for Renaissance (general term) or Elizabethan garb? If so, what are your thoughts? I realise they are not natural fibres, but what did you think of the patterns? Do you have photos of finished gowns or doublets you might share with me? I've got some garments to make and am thinking about some of these fabrics. Regards, A. Garden ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery
Wow! I'm speachless! Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 12:08:45 +0100 Hi, As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it in use. I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap that closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta. I have finished the ground embroidery and have started with the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves and a calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with Eterna Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2 greens, and then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with silk. I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole motif has the same flower mirrored 1 time. Its the latest at the bottom: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the grey waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a white watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen
If the linen is really fine, I'd suggest a hand rolled hem. Most of the time, the standard hemming techniques work with linen. Linen is one of those yummy fabrics that just does what you ask it to. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: angelalazear [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 11:18:50 -0800 When working with linen, does anyone have tricks for hemming it? A friend has asked me and I rarely work with linen, so I didn't know of any 'tricks offhand, other than the standard hemming techniques. Thanks in advance, angela + Angela F. Lazear Cabbage Rose Costumes Theatrical Costume Design Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech... All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram W. Shakespeare http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?
That and there is a huge difference in cut between the early elizabethan stays and the 18thC stays. Even the effigy stays are cut with only three pieces...the 18thC ones are cut in five or more. That seaming adds a lot to the position of the breast within the stays. Kelly/estela - Original Message - From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 1:45 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting? Tubular to me means straight like a toilet paper roll. Elizabethan is cone. http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth15.jpg http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth.jpg Yes, but those are all later Elizabethans. The conical shape is really empasized in later years. Earlier is closer to tubular than those late examples - especially if you're like me and have size 0 shoulders and size 4 hips! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
