Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

2009-04-15 Thread Melanie Schuessler
Thanks, Annette, for sending this image!  No matter how it was done,  
it was a huge amount of work.  It's hard for me to imagine that this  
could be successfully set if all those points were stitched together  
at the start.  (Does heat damage pearls?  I suppose they could be  
fake ones made of glass.)  So I would guess that these are either  
pearl-headed pins, or that the lady was willing to pay to have it  
stitched each time after it was set.


Melanie Schuessler
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Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED] Need author of book PLease....

2009-04-15 Thread Melody Watts
HI Suzi,
May I butt in ?
I havae been going crazy seeking info on the Austro-Hungarian Empire dress for 
people of middle and noble class, for the early and later Elizabethan era.
If you do find that reference book ,could you PLEASE post the title  author 
for me?
I'd really like to portray a part of my heritage at our Faires  by dressing as 
a noble Hungarian lady.
I just do a generic lower noble English lady and I'd like a change.
Melody

--- On Tue, 4/14/09, Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk wrote:


From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Tuesday, April 14, 2009, 12:24 AM


At 00:29 14/04/2009, you wrote:
Until recently I had thought that the figure-of-eight ruffs were never
stitched to hold the shape, but last week I found a portrait in a
current Sotherby's catalogue for a sale of Old Master and early British
paintings.
This is the link to the catalogue:
http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails
event_id=29138

and the particular painting is:
http://www.sothebys.com/app/live/lot/LotDetail.jsp?lot_id=159527660

The ruff is formed with a lattice effect, intersecting 4 times, and
there is a pearl at every intersection, with a group of 3 pearls at the
top and bottom edge. I think the pearls are stitched on, rather than
representing pin-heads, especially given the groups of pearls at top and
bottom. It would be a nightmare to reset after washing.

I have never seen anything similar - has anyone else?
Suzi, is this similar to the one you referred to.

Needless to say I have downloaded it for future reference.

Annette Wilson

At the moment that particular book is AWOL in the mess that is my 
workroom, but the idea was similar as far as I can remember. The book 
is about costume in, I think, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which was 
heavily influenced by Spanish fashions. I'll have another look later 
- I'm away today.

Suzi

-
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200
From: Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de
Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Message-ID: 200904091839.n39iduov018...@net.indra.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Hello,

has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and
Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these
stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs
are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?

Thank you,
Hanna



--

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:55:26 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Message-ID: 7.0.1.0.2.20090409195249.03cb2...@suziclarke.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

At 19:39 09/04/2009, you wrote:
 Hello,
 
 has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
 outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and
 Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these
 stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs

 are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
 Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
 decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?

I have seen pictures of ruffs where the 8s are apparently held
together, probably with wax (see Janet Arnold). I am sure I also have a
photo of a ruff held with red beads - I'll have to go and look for that
though - my library is not next to the computer!

Suzi





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Please consider the environment before printing this email.

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Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

2009-04-15 Thread Käthe Barrows
That, or the painter painted her sitting in the one time it looked good.


So I would guess that these are either pearl-headed pins, or that the lady
 was willing to pay to have it stitched each time after it was set.
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Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

2009-04-14 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 00:29 14/04/2009, you wrote:

Until recently I had thought that the figure-of-eight ruffs were never
stitched to hold the shape, but last week I found a portrait in a
current Sotherby's catalogue for a sale of Old Master and early British
paintings.
This is the link to the catalogue:
http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails
event_id=29138

and the particular painting is:
http://www.sothebys.com/app/live/lot/LotDetail.jsp?lot_id=159527660

The ruff is formed with a lattice effect, intersecting 4 times, and
there is a pearl at every intersection, with a group of 3 pearls at the
top and bottom edge. I think the pearls are stitched on, rather than
representing pin-heads, especially given the groups of pearls at top and
bottom. It would be a nightmare to reset after washing.

I have never seen anything similar - has anyone else?
Suzi, is this similar to the one you referred to.

Needless to say I have downloaded it for future reference.

Annette Wilson


At the moment that particular book is AWOL in the mess that is my 
workroom, but the idea was similar as far as I can remember. The book 
is about costume in, I think, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which was 
heavily influenced by Spanish fashions. I'll have another look later 
- I'm away today.


Suzi


-
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200
From: Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de
Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Message-ID: 200904091839.n39iduov018...@net.indra.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Hello,

has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and
Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these
stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs
are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?

Thank you,
Hanna



--

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:55:26 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Message-ID: 7.0.1.0.2.20090409195249.03cb2...@suziclarke.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

At 19:39 09/04/2009, you wrote:
Hello,

has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and
Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these
stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs

are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?

I have seen pictures of ruffs where the 8s are apparently held
together, probably with wax (see Janet Arnold). I am sure I also have a
photo of a ruff held with red beads - I'll have to go and look for that
though - my library is not next to the computer!

Suzi





--
If you have received this transmission in error please notify us 
immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail 
or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does 
not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright 
in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments.




Please consider the environment before printing this email.

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Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

2009-04-14 Thread AlbertCat
I would not rule out pins altogether...some with 3 pearl heads...because  
it's difficult to set. That's the whole point of a formal tortured ruff,  
isn't it?
 
 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

2009-04-13 Thread Wilson, Annette
Until recently I had thought that the figure-of-eight ruffs were never
stitched to hold the shape, but last week I found a portrait in a
current Sotherby's catalogue for a sale of Old Master and early British
paintings.
This is the link to the catalogue:
http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails
event_id=29138

and the particular painting is:
http://www.sothebys.com/app/live/lot/LotDetail.jsp?lot_id=159527660

The ruff is formed with a lattice effect, intersecting 4 times, and
there is a pearl at every intersection, with a group of 3 pearls at the
top and bottom edge. I think the pearls are stitched on, rather than
representing pin-heads, especially given the groups of pearls at top and
bottom. It would be a nightmare to reset after washing.

I have never seen anything similar - has anyone else?
Suzi, is this similar to the one you referred to.

Needless to say I have downloaded it for future reference.

Annette Wilson 

-
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200
From: Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de
Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Message-ID: 200904091839.n39iduov018...@net.indra.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Hello,

has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and
Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these
stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs
are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?

Thank you,
Hanna



--

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:55:26 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Message-ID: 7.0.1.0.2.20090409195249.03cb2...@suziclarke.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

At 19:39 09/04/2009, you wrote:
Hello,

has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the 
outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and 
Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these 
stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs

are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a 
decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?

I have seen pictures of ruffs where the 8s are apparently held
together, probably with wax (see Janet Arnold). I am sure I also have a
photo of a ruff held with red beads - I'll have to go and look for that
though - my library is not next to the computer!

Suzi





--
If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by 
return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have 
been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any 
confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail 
or attachments. 



Please consider the environment before printing this email.

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Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

2009-04-13 Thread Becky Rautine

Is the stronger white line at the base some kind of support? I wonder how much 
this one weighs!! Beautiful in it's curved shapes but way more than I'd want to 
wear.

Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine


 
 Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 09:29:05 +1000
 From: annette.wil...@environment.gov.au
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
 
 Until recently I had thought that the figure-of-eight ruffs were never
 stitched to hold the shape, but last week I found a portrait in a
 current Sotherby's catalogue for a sale of Old Master and early British
 paintings.
 This is the link to the catalogue:
 http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails
 event_id=29138
 
 and the particular painting is:
 http://www.sothebys.com/app/live/lot/LotDetail.jsp?lot_id=159527660
 
 The ruff is formed with a lattice effect, intersecting 4 times, and
 there is a pearl at every intersection, with a group of 3 pearls at the
 top and bottom edge. I think the pearls are stitched on, rather than
 representing pin-heads, especially given the groups of pearls at top and
 bottom. It would be a nightmare to reset after washing.
 
 I have never seen anything similar - has anyone else?
 Suzi, is this similar to the one you referred to.
 
 Needless to say I have downloaded it for future reference.
 
 Annette Wilson 
 
 -
 Message: 2
 Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200
 From: Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de
 Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Message-ID: 200904091839.n39iduov018...@net.indra.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
 
 Hello,
 
 has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
 outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and
 Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these
 stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs
 are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
 Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
 decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?
 
 Thank you,
 Hanna
 
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 3
 Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:55:26 +0100
 From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Message-ID: 7.0.1.0.2.20090409195249.03cb2...@suziclarke.co.uk
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
 
 At 19:39 09/04/2009, you wrote:
 Hello,
 
 has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the 
 outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and 
 Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these 
 stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs
 
 are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
 Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a 
 decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?
 
 I have seen pictures of ruffs where the 8s are apparently held
 together, probably with wax (see Janet Arnold). I am sure I also have a
 photo of a ruff held with red beads - I'll have to go and look for that
 though - my library is not next to the computer!
 
 Suzi
 
 
 
 
 
 --
 If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately 
 by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments 
 have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any 
 confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the 
 e-mail or attachments. 
 
 
 
 Please consider the environment before printing this email.
 
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Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

2009-04-13 Thread Ginni Morgan
If you zoom in on it, you can see that there is clearly a separate supporter 
below the ruff itself.  The supporter has the lower row of pearl clusters 
attached to it, not to the ruff.  The lower pearl clusters do not match up with 
the loops of the ruff, whereas the clusters on top do.  While the single pearls 
at the junctions in the ruff could be either sewn on or on pin heads, the pearl 
clusters around the top of the ruff sure look like they are be sewn on as I 
don't see any trace of pins up there.  Of course, there's no trace of pins in 
the middle either, but in this instance, I would opt for pinheads in the middle 
just for ease of ironing.  If you carefully trace the lines, you'll note that 
the fabric is just one continuous single ruffle which has been pinned twice 
(creating that little box shape) rather than once in the middle.

Ginni Morgan

 Becky Rautine zearti...@hotmail.com 4/13/09 5:32 PM 

Is the stronger white line at the base some kind of support? I wonder how much 
this one weighs!! Beautiful in it's curved shapes but way more than I'd want to 
wear.

Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine


 
 Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 09:29:05 +1000
 From: annette.wil...@environment.gov.au 
 To: h-cost...@indra.com 
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
 
 Until recently I had thought that the figure-of-eight ruffs were never
 stitched to hold the shape, but last week I found a portrait in a
 current Sotherby's catalogue for a sale of Old Master and early British
 paintings.
 This is the link to the catalogue:
 http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails 
 event_id=29138
 
 and the particular painting is:
 http://www.sothebys.com/app/live/lot/LotDetail.jsp?lot_id=159527660 
 
 The ruff is formed with a lattice effect, intersecting 4 times, and
 there is a pearl at every intersection, with a group of 3 pearls at the
 top and bottom edge. I think the pearls are stitched on, rather than
 representing pin-heads, especially given the groups of pearls at top and
 bottom. It would be a nightmare to reset after washing.
 
 I have never seen anything similar - has anyone else?
 Suzi, is this similar to the one you referred to.
 
 Needless to say I have downloaded it for future reference.
 
 Annette Wilson 
 
 -
 Message: 2
 Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200
 From: Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de
 Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Message-ID: 200904091839.n39iduov018...@net.indra.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
 
 Hello,
 
 has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
 outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and
 Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these
 stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs
 are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
 Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
 decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?
 
 Thank you,
 Hanna
 
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 3
 Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:55:26 +0100
 From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Message-ID: 7.0.1.0.2.20090409195249.03cb2...@suziclarke.co.uk
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
 
 At 19:39 09/04/2009, you wrote:
 Hello,
 
 has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the 
 outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and 
 Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these 
 stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs
 
 are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
 Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a 
 decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?
 
 I have seen pictures of ruffs where the 8s are apparently held
 together, probably with wax (see Janet Arnold). I am sure I also have a
 photo of a ruff held with red beads - I'll have to go and look for that
 though - my library is not next to the computer!
 
 Suzi
 
 
 
 
 
 --
 If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately 
 by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments 
 have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any 
 confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the 
 e-mail or attachments. 
 
 
 
 Please consider the environment before printing this email.
 
 --
 
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