KR> ram air cabin vents.
Hi Netters, A friend installed an extremely effective cabin vent on his Jodel D-11. You may recall on the old cars of the 1020s and 30s there was a ram air vent in front of the windshield that opened forward to scoop air into the inside of the car. He got one and mounted it at the top of the windscreen, midway between the pilot and passenger. It was lever actuated and could be opened part way. The prop wash really blew in a hurricane if you opened it up all the way but nice on a very hot day. For those that can get to the Sun & Fun dinner at Hooters on Thursday evening, I can drive a car load into town in my car and so can Brant Hollensbe. Brant has a cell phone at: 515-720-8160 .I do not have a cell phone. Hope to meet many of you in person that night. Regards Harold Woods Orillia ON Canada.
KR> protect the wing walk area
Hi Netters. This is for those that are building and for those that have built their KRs. Out an extra layer of glass on the wing walk area. Put some adhesive gritty strips on this area. Protect the wing while building by cutting a piece of carpet to fit this area. Cut strips of wood about 5/8" x 2" x 18 " and epoxy them to the carpet. The rows of wood will conform to the curve of the wing. You can walk all over this simple protection. When you are finished, save them. When doing overhauls and inspections and repairs, bring them back into use to protect the wing. When not in use they can be rolled up and stored on a shelf. Regards, Harold Woods Orillia, ON.Canada. haroldwo...@sympatico.ca
KR> foam filled gas tanks
Hi Netters, A product call "Explosafe" or similar name was composed of aluminum foil mesh. Its purpose was to prevent rapid drainage of gas after a tank rupture. It also reduced sloshing. Then alcohol reared it's ugly head. Alcohol loves water. It will remove water vapour from the air in the tank and make a solution of it. Aluminum also likes water. Liquid water would come out of the alcohol/gas mixture and form a liquid coating on the aluminum mesh. So far this does not sound like a problem until you drain any water in your sumps before going flying. Now pull a high G loop or very steep turn. You converted your plane into a centrifuge. The water is forced to slide down the aluminum mesh and pool in the bottom of your gas tank. You may suddenly end up with enough water to try running on water instead of gas. Bad scene. You have no way of getting rid of that water while up there. The future dictates that the gas of the future will have alcohol in it. Lets face it, you should use a steel gas line now as you build your plane. Use either a neoprene gas bladder in the tank or use a steel tank. Beware of any non-resistant to alcohol parts in your carb. The alcohol content of future fuels will vary. You will not get vapour lock in a carb that has it's gas under pressure and kept cool. I think that there is too much panicky and not enough solid scientific facts going around. Regards, Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada L3V2G6 haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> acetone in epoxy mixes
Hi Netters. There was a mention of cleaning the last of resins out of their containers and using the remains for laminating. Acetone will thin a thick epoxy. But ask yourself, what happens to the acetone after the epoxy hardens? It will diffuse out into the air over a period of time leaving the epoxy with empty spaces in it. It is then slightly porous and cannot be quite as strong. It also will now be porous to water and water vapour. Keep acetone and epoxy mixes off you skin. The acetone will penetrate your skin very easily, carrying the epoxy with it into your blood stream. You would be asking for allergy reactions or worse still cancerous starts. Always wear the blue Tyvec gloves when working with liquid epoxy. Pure acetone should not really bother you as it can be produced in the body , it is a good dissolver of many things but is excellent for starting old tired lawn mowers. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> thinning epoxy
Hi Netters, There is only one way to thin a thick epoxy properly. You must purchase a "reactive dilutant". It is a substance that has properties like epoxy, in that it will react with the hardener that you are using, thus your mix some of it with the thick epoxy resin that you are going to use. e.go. Shell 828. You can use up to 10 % reactive dilutant . Try to keep it below 5%. Too much and it will weaken the epoxy. If you use acetone, alcohol etc to thin the epoxy realize that you may be drastically reducing the resultant strength of the epoxy. Thin epoxy resin (is a pre diluted Commercial type). They have diluted it up to the point where they know that any further diluting will reduce their specs. Jeff Scott is right, in that the liver must remove the acetone from your blood stream. The body can produces acetone in small quantities. In diabetics it can be produce in large quantities so that it can be noticed in their breath. Not nice. Methylated spirits, wood alcohol, methyl alcohol, methanol, all the same substance is a good solvent but it has the property of damaging the optic nerve. It as all other alcohols produces intoxication. Drink it and you may wake up blind, permanently. Grain alcohol, ethyl alcohol, ethanol is the common intoxicant in alcoholic beverages. If it is mixed with a toxic substance , it is then called denatured alcohol. Drink it at your own risk. Rubbing alcohol, propyl alcohol, iso propyl alcohol will give you a terrible drunk. The 5 carbon alcohol called "fusel oil" or "Gun oil" (amyl alcohol) is what is in some commercial Spirit beverages that makes the cannons go off in your head the next day. Your skin is rather porous to these fat dissolving substances . Remember this when using them to clean out epoxy containers, cleaning up spills etc. Regards, Harold Woods Orillia, ON Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> floats for a Kr-2
Hi Netters. Before you get carried away by the idea of flying a Kr from water, ask your self the question , how do you get on and off a low winged aircraft onto a dock. High winged float equipped planes let your wing extend over the dock so the float can be parallel to the dock, letting you step off the float onto the dock. Sure there are some beaches that might be low enough or the odd float plane ramp might be available got gassing up. Otherwise get out your hip waders or you are going to get wet feet (and maybe deeper). Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwoods$rogers.com
KR> roll over protection
Hi Netters, Roll over is a problem. I have had the unfortunate occasion to watch two people die in a roll over and subsequent fire. I built a strong roof top protection into my KR. It is supported by a fixed windshield and front roll over bars as well as roll over bar at the back of the side windows. All has been done in glass. I hope never to test it. The top roof top is 12 inches wide and 2 inches thick . It runs from the front windshield arch to about 4 feet back from the back of the pilots seat. It is integrated into the turtle deck. It is one of the strongest parts of the plane, The rudder post is the stronger of the two. Ron Freiberger's passing is sad, but that is life. I will be 77 year old this week and I may be next. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> light weight jet.
Hi Netters, As soon as you look at the specs of this machine you will wonder why did it beat the Kr so easily? Check out the link: http://www.coolorwhat.net/blog/archive/2005/05/13/758.aspx Regards Harold Woods Orillia, On. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> Bending wood strips (1/4' x 2") for laminating a spar.
Hi Netters. If wood laminations are heated in steam , they become very flexible. When they cool down they take on the new shape that they have been held in. An extreme example would be tying a knot in an oak strip. A simple steamer can be made from a metal rain down spout (about 3 or 4 inch square tube) galvanized or aluminum. If you want to strip to be 10 feet long then use a 12 foot tube. Put a screen in one end. Place to tube on a slope. The wood strip goes inside it. An electric kettle is placed so that the steam is directed into the lower end with the screen. Let any condensed water run back into the kettle. It would be a good idea to insulate the tube if possible with soft foam or cloth. Steam the wood for about 30 minutes. Take it out and immediately force it into the bent position that you want. Let it cool. Now the subject of drying comes up. Some will want to dry it back to it's original dryness. That will take time. However it is interesting to know that a standard Epoxy resin like Shell 828, can be used with a Versamid 140 hardener on wet wood. As a matter of fact the bond with this system on wet wood is better than when the wood is dry. This has to be done to believe it. The time in the steamer should be as short as possible, just enough to let the wood become flexible. Experiment with it. It should be possible to bend all your laminations in one day, keeping them clamped into a mold until cool. Let them air dry for several days and then laminate with your regular Exoxy. Regards, Harold Woods Orillia ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> luggage spoace
Hi Netters, 'Gus" responded to my email on luggage space in the wing stubs. I went out and took 18 photos of it to give an idea of what it looks like. You can walk all over the lid which forms the walkway for the wing stub. The size of the download is 2.5 MB. If you want to see it just contact me off net and I will send you the photos. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> dynel fabric.
Hi Netters. Larry Flesner asked about the tan colored fabric called dynel. Ken Rand used it to build his first planes. At first glance it looks good. It is thin, drapes nice. When you add the liquid epoxy, the fun begins. It swells and takes a lot of epoxy. One of the characteristics of dynel is that it is slippery. Try sanding it. It is very abrasion resistant. This might be a good idea on the bottom of a canoe or pontoon but not on the wings that you have to sand. It is a cruel curse. It is NOT strong. It is nothing like glass for strength. Do not use it for the building of aircraft. I gave mine away to someone that was building a boat. Regards, Harold Woods, Orillia, ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> a bad day at the airport.
Hi Netters, A friend had his Champ in for an inspection. The mechanic started it too close to the hanger door. The prop hit the door. They straightened the prop out for him but that was all. A few hours later the engine threw a rod on takeoff at 100 feet. Good piloting put the plane down in a field of stumps with minimal damage. Testing produced evidence that the prop strike had caused the initial crack to get started. A new engine was installed free of charge by the shop that caused the problem. Any prop strike is cause for a teardown and inspection. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> trailing wing edges.
I am using a GWA-1 airfoil. It's trailing edge is blunt, 1/2 inch thick. Supposedly as the wing reaches it's stalling angle, a rotating horizontal vortex develops along this trailing edge. The higher pressure on the underside and lower pressure on the top forces the vortex to rotate such that it tend to force the upper air to stay attached to the top surface of the wing much longer than would occur on a sharp trailing edge. Thus the wing will be an aggressive climber at slow speed. The proof is going to occur if I can finally finish mine and get it into the air. I have so many other interests that the KR is in conflict at the moment. I will report the results eventually. Regards Haarold Woods Orillia,ON.Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> Aerolite glue.
Hi Netters, In 348 issue 402, the name Aerolite glue came up. I think that there might be some old glue joints that were made up as test samples, in the workshop. They do not look good because of the crazing that takes place along the glue line. I once visited a skilled boat builder and asked about Aerolite. I got quite an explosive response. He was not complementary in the descriptive language that he applied to it.(It had a reference to a goat). Then he showed me why. He hull of a racing sailboat takes quite a bit of vibration on the bow. Aerolite crystallizes due to this and subsequently failed. He now only uses the West System in his boat building. At one time our MOT approved its use in aircraft because it was waterproof. Now they want you to use epoxy. It was not clear why they didn't like it. Once approved always approved but not the best. Regards, Harold Woods, Orillia, ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> polyester
Hi Netters. Polyester stinks. I mean it has a terrible odour.Epoxy is not nearly as bad. Polyester will adhere to glass cloth and urethane foam just like epoxy will. Polyester will not last as long on top of wood that is exposed to sun and rain as will epoxy. Water tends to diffuse through polyester unless the top or outside coat is a polyester jell coat. Both require protection from the ultra violet of sun light using special paint ingredients designed for this purpose. The surface penetration of wood with both polyester and epoxy depends on the fluidity of the applied resin. The pot life of polyester is highly dictated by air humidity. Temperature is a factor in the pot life of both polyester and epoxy. The catalyst in polyester can accelerate the cure rate if it is used in higher amounts in polyester, while using too much catalyst in epoxy is a no-no. It changes the characteristics of the cured product. Epoxy has the advantage of the use of different types of catalytic hardeners to control pot life, hardness, flexibility and the unimaginable ability to stick very well to wet wood if and only, you use the Versamid 140 hardener.The ratio of 2 volumes Shell 828 and 1 volume Versamid 140. Such a mix is very slow curing , like 12 to 24 hours depending on temperature, but the results are excellent. The Gougeon Brothers book on boat building with epoxy is very good and applies perfectly to our airplanes. Never apply polyester resin to polyester foam. The results are fast and disappointing. The foam will dissolve and vanish before your eyes. This is why if you want to build a KR with polyester you must use only urethane foams. When polyester cures a waxy by-product of the cure migrates to the surface. This waxy surface prevents the next layer of polyester from bonding properly to it. The surface must be sanded and cleaned first. Never try to put polyester over epoxy.It will not hold. Similarly never put epoxy over even sanded polyester, it will seem to hold at first but eventually it will fail. Maybe next year at 10,000 feet? The final weight of a fibreglassed project will depend on the skill of the applier. You can make epoxy just as heavy as polyester buy applying too much. Personally I like epoxy the best. You can control the viscosity by your choice of resin which is best different for glue joints (more viscous) or for laminating glass or carbon fibre (use more fluid type). You can add thickening agents to the epoxy if desired. The polyester is easier to colour by adding a pigment that is designed for polyester, to the mix. The pigments for epoxy are different than that for polyester. It is more expensive. the pigments are not interchangeable. You can add finely powdered aluminum dust to an epoxy mix. It will provide U.V. protection. It will hinder the passage of radio waves. (A point that I misses on my construction.) This is an experimental hobby. Never believe every thing that you read , it may not be the final answer (even mine too). Experiment first yourself. Finally know that Epoxy is carcinogenic. Heed my warning on this. My neighbour did not. He used it as he would polyester. He washed the epoxy off his hands with acetone. This sent the epoxy through the skin and into his blood stream. 2 years later he died of lung cancer. Keep it off your skin. Use tygel (blue plastic) gloves at all times. Avoid the fumes and smell of epoxy. The same goes for the sanding dust but for a different reason.Once epoxy has cured it is inert. Sanded epoxy fibreglass has bit of glass in it . silicosis in the lungs can result. Good luck to all. Regards, Harold Woods, Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com even
KR> compasses
Hi Netters. I am away behind on my emails but I am bothered by the discussion on the compass reversing as you move over the equator into the southern hemisphere. I suggest that if you are in the far north of Canada, but still south of the North Magnetic Pole and you decide to fly south to Toronto, your compass points South at 180 degrees. The number 18 or 180 is displayed. If you generally keep going south you would over fly Florida (big gas tanks and bladders for this flight). Cross the Caribbean to South America. The compass still says 180 degrees. Over the equator in Brazil it still says 180 . Down to Argentina, still 180. Penetrate Antarctica still going South at 180. The normal magnetic field of your aircraft have not changed. All the compass is doing is following the magnetic lines of the earth. (yes I know it would like to dip) The question of turning for lag in the compass I have not thought about. In fact for the VFR that I do it is a subject that has no real importance. Now let me get on with the mass of accumulated emails on my mail box. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON,Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> speed
Hi Netters, Robin Wills made a comment on tire size under the heading of speed. He suggested that the 600 x6 makes the KR Look "The bloody KR looks like a Mini with 19" rims on it now, these tyres are huge." There is no doubt that there will be more drag here. But it will work better on grass or a rough field. I had a pair of 600 x8 on mine but it would go slower still and could probably land on a field of boulders. Since the brakes would not fit the present axels I switched to 600 x 6. It may go faster but I will have to forgo the field of boulder and settle for grass.It is all in the eye of the beholder. regards Harold Woods, Orillia, ON.Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> vacuum required?
Hi Netters, I did not want the ugly venturi on the outside, required to run a gyro compass and a horizon. I purchased a vacuum pump that bolts into the back of the engine (Franklin) The price used with filter and pressure regulator was $ (CAD) 100.00 It will be well worth it. Regards Harold Woods Orillia ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> cabin air cooling.
Hi Netters. A hot cabin is no fun. A friend did something about this when he built a Jodel D-11. He acquired an automotive vent. This is probably from an old model car. It was the kind that opened a hinged door into the wind. It was often located in front of the car windshield and opened up into the wind. It was manually actuated by a lever. He installed it at the top of his windshield. When you opened that little door up, ( approximately 3" x 5 ") you could direst a hurricane of air at your self. It worked equally well on the ground too as the wind blast from the prop hit it. Before any one gets too excited about drag, there never seemed to be any penalty to airspeed when you activated it. There was a good gasket around it's closed position. Rain never entered. It was a simple arms reach to open/close it. His came off a car but you could easily make one. Regards, Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> epoxy /hardener ratio.
Hi Netters A question was asked about the results that occur when the ratio of epoxy /hardener are off spec. Don Reid said it all. To make this more clear to you, do a little experiment. Mix up a small batch of epoxy using the correct ratios. Mix up several other batches but increase the amount of hardener on each batch by 10%. Do this for 5 batches. Note their curing times. Be sure to put a wooden stick into each as they harden. Test the results by bending bashing etc to destruction for each case. Repeat the same experiment for a change in the amount of epoxy for a constant amount of hardener. The results are going to be a caution to use the most correct ratio epoxy/hardener ratio possible as specified by the manufacturer. Further when you mix the batch, drain it into another container , scrape the walls of the original mixing container well. Mix again in the second container before apply in the epoxy on your plane. It took a while before I found that I had not always properly mixed all the epoxy off the side of the can, so that toward the end of the batch , if I scraped the sides , I might not be getting the correct epoxy/hardener ratio mix. The worst case scenario occurred when I was making a top for my trailer. The foam was 1/2" thick. The outside was done and epoxyed in place. The inside was then epoxied and left to cure over night. Resultnothing. I had forgotten to add the hardener. Procedure-- The ratio was 5 epoxy to 1 hardener. I rolled on with a roller , the hardener and in places painted on the hardener with a brush. The next day it was all hard. Quality ???. But it did last 20 years. But then it was only a trailer top. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> spoilers.
Hi Netters, The holiday in Portugal is over, I am trying to catch up on the KRnet postings. The 25 March/06 asks if any one was using spoilers. Yes I am. I built them into the main wings at the start of the building of the center wing. I got a report from gentleman in England that did this too. He reported a real steep glide angle but reported buffeting which he did not like. He also reported no floating on touchdown. As a result , I put the horizontal stabilizers on the top of the rudder to keep them out of the turbulent flow from the spoilers. That called for a big design change. I am still behind in everything including work on the KR. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> stabilizer airfoil shape.
Hi Netters. Take a look at Chris Heintz's Zenair series. He uses a reverse airfoil on his horizontal stabilizers. This provides the necessary down moment on the tail to maintain stability. It is like a automatic trim control. You will note that I have caught up to 13 April 06. regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada.
KR> ethanol
Hi Netters. re Issue 186 on 25 Apr 06. Lets face it, there is going to be a shortage of gasoline in the future. We in the airplane group are a tiny drop in the pot. No one is going to make special fuel for us. Go with the flow and that is ethanol. Adapt now. No aluminum fuel lines. Ethanol attacks them. Redo your carb to ensure all rubber parts are ethanol safe. Ensure that your gas tank will hold ethanol, pure if necessary. Expect to burn a greater volume of fuel to do the same thing. I am not going to start a war about how efficient gasoline is compared to pure ethanol. Get the numbers straight from a knowledgeable source.I do not have them. Size your gas tank to suit. Those of you in the USA are fortunate, if you want to produce your own ethanol fuel then apply for a licence for a few dollars. Go to the archives in "Mother Earth News" and find the article on a modern high efficiency still that you can make. The plans are very reasonable cost. If you can grow your own carbohydrate vegetable. Process it into ethanol. The "still" will give you about 80% ethanol and 20 % water. That is an excellent mixture for a gas engine. The water will give you a high octane rating, it reduces the burn rate thus more power ( the water becomes steam and that pushes uniformly on the piston). There was a man (no names given), living not too far away that grew sugar beets, which he made into ethanol. He quoted the cost as 25 cents a gallon (Imperial ), no labour or taxes involved. He ran his station wagon on this fuel. He had a sign in the back window to the effect that this vehicle ran on alcohol. In Canada, this is VERY illegal. After a few years the RCMPolice arrived and shut him down. They said that they had been watching him, he was not abusing the alcohol by selling or drinking it so nothing was done until some idiot in bureaucratic Ottawa decided that he should not do this. This man solved the problem by running for parliament in his area. He won. Government has a problem. A member of parliament is charged with making alcohol. Solve the problem, give him a permit to do so. (normally this would cost upwards of $35,000.00 for a permit.) . The moral of this story is "adapt" Stop bitching, do something constructive so that you can safely burn anywhere from 10% to 100% ethanol, or any other fuel that shows up (natural gas, propane, butane etc.) If you want to fly you must adapt. I am sending this on a Friday, If it is too late send it next week on a Friday. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> removing the foam after glassing as wing.
Hi Netters. The answer to the subject of this question becomes readily available if the person involved will do the following experiment: Take a piece of the blue styrofoam that is used for home insulation. Cut it 1 foot wide, 1 foot long and use the type that is 1 inch thick. Cover it with fibreglass cloth as you would your wing. Epoxy the glass to the foam. After curing, place one end on the edge of one chair and the other end on the edge of another chair. Sit in the middle! It should take it. Now pour gasoline onto the blue foam to dissolve it. Now it is gone. Repeat the experiment but this time press down in the middle with your finger. You now have the answer to your problem. The foam may be light , it may be frail but it servers a very important purpose. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> diabetes type 2.
Hi Netters. Let's face it, our life style of high carbs and low exercise is producing a nation of potential diabetes type 2 population. This problem can be avoided, if you are too late, it can be stopped. If you work at it, it can be "backed up". I know because I am an example. When I found that I was type 2, I was devistated. A good diet, low in carbs and high in protein helps. Smooth out the blood sugar, avoid high and lows by regular eating. I added an herbal called "gymnema sylvester" called the "sugar destroyer" from India. It is said that after 18 months it will regenerate the Islets of Langerhans in your pancreas. These are the cells that produce insulin. I recently had a medical. My fasting blood sugar was 6.2 My Doctor said that if it had been 6.0, it would have been perfect. The previous test was 7.1. I take no medication but I do exercise daily. This is very important. The bottom line, it is up to the Doctor to prove that you are diabetic. Tell him nothing. If you really want your Pilots Licence back then work at it. You can return to normal again. You can fly your KR again and hopefully for many years to come. Who said that it is easy , remember "no Pain -no Gain", it is up to you. Harold Woods Orillia, ON, Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> dynel
Hi Netters, The original specification for the covering of the wings etc was dynel. I did that. I later found out how weak it was. It really was a prepaint covering.I layed down a layer of 6 oz. boat cloth over it. That is what I am going to fly with. ( If I can ever get it done). Harold woods Orillia, On. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com - Original Message - From: <krnet-requ...@mylist.net> To: <kr...@mylist.net> Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 12:00 AM Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 348, Issue 95 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to kr...@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-requ...@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-ow...@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Carbon Fibre (3343V) 2. RE: Carbon Fibre (Joachim Saupe) 3. Re: Carbon Fibre (Steve Eberhart) 4. Tim Haynes engine information (olson gary) 5. Tail Graphics (Mark Jones) 6. Scolding - Krnet etiquette (Barry Kruyssen) 7. Re: Carbon Fibre (Tim Haynes) 8. Re: Carbon Fibre (Mark Langford) 9. Re: Tail Graphics (Robert L. Stone) 10. Registry Windows XP (Martindale Family) 11. sunset ar 6000 feet (Harold Woods) 12. Re: Tim Haynes engine information reply to Gary (Tim Haynes) 13. Ellison carb "problem" solved (Mark Langford) -- Message: 1 List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:05:50 -0600 From: "3343V" <33...@swbell.net> Subject: Re: KR> Carbon Fibre To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net> Message-ID: <00e601c63273$9988e030$0c00a8c0@Katana> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Ron Smith wrote: > > Much has been written regarding the use of Kevlar and its' > difficulty to work with. However Kevlar's strength is not much lower > than CF > while it has excellent properties such as vibration reduction, > superior > strength, lower weight (than traditional e-glass) and excellent damage > resistance. Kevlar is easy to cut as long as you use the right tools. Ceramic shears aren't cheap, but they work. Just don't try to sand it. It won't happen. Just turns into yellow fuzz that's next to impossible to get rid of. I just put a layer of glass over it, bag it with peel ply, and leave it alone until it's primed. If you're careful with the layup it'll be flat enough that high build primer will take care of any problems with the surface. -- Steve 33...@swbell.net He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in. -- Message: 2 List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:18:36 -0600 From: "Joachim Saupe" <jsaupe6...@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: KR> Carbon Fibre To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net> Message-ID: <410-220062315211836...@earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Ron, they have the antenna on the outside! Joachim Fort Worth, Texas > [Original Message] > From: Ron Smith <mercedesm...@yahoo.com> > To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net> > Date: 2/15/2006 2:29:42 PM > Subject: RE: KR> Carbon Fibre > > > > Doug Rupert <drup...@sympatico.ca> wrote: Tim first of all you must decide the overall mission of your > aircraft. Super fast, or what seems to be the norm with others on the list. > First be advised that CF blocks all radio, GPS signals. That said, if you > wish a clean exterior, low drag machine use carbon fiber sparingly. The > forward boat ahead of the wing as well as cowl, wheel fairings and pants > > > I was wondering how people who build aluminum airplanes ever communicate with anyone? :) > > > Ron Smith > Kr2ssxl > Cypress Ca U.S.A. > mercedesm...@yahoo.com > http://ronsmith.myphotoalbum.com/albums.php > > - > Yahoo! Mail > Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html -- Message: 3 List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 17:04:00 -0600 From: Steve Eberhart <st...@newtech.com> Subject: Re: KR> Carbon Fibre To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net> Message-ID: <43f3b360.1000...@newtech.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Ron Smith wrote: > >I was wondering how people who build aluminum airplanes ever c
KR> sunset ar 6000 feet
Hi Netters One of the best motivational elements was Marks photo of "sunset at 6000 feet". If for no other reason, I should finish my KR, it is because I can view nature from such a lovely "perch". Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> crosswind landings.
Hi Netters. The aercoupe that I have a lot of time on, did not have crosswind landing gear. As a matter of fact it was a 2 control system. The rudder and the ailerons were co-ordinately coupled. Sorry no wing low landings . While flying in the winter at Neepawa Manitoba on a windy day (30 to 35 mph 45 degree cross wind) I had a problem getting down. Since it was a lonely airport the solution was simple. The wind was from the left. I approached the threshold, as slowly as possible direct into the wind. Airspeed approximately 45 + mph. dropped it over the snow back and onto the tarmac and hit the brakes. I was almost stopped by the time I got near the snow bank on the left side of the runway. Then it was just a matter of turning right and taxiing forward. Actually touchdown was about 45-30=15 mph. On a 100 +- wide runway that was no problem.A KR could have done the same thing just as easily. I grant you that this is not the nice procedure if other aircraft are in the circuit, but some time it may be necessary.
KR> water in the gas.
Hi Netters, These is one thing that bothers me, I drive my car for years and never have a problem with water in the gas tank. Put an auto engine in an airplane and listen to the "water in the gas" problems. Here in Canada we expect to have up to 10% alcohol in Mogas. This quantity of alcohol will absorb and water that gets into the tank by condensation. I know that it is possible to buy gas at a station that does not sell much gas and that is careless about checking their underground tanks for water. So it is possible to get a slug of water from them when you fill up with gas but this usually gets absorbed after several fill from a "dryer" gas station. Alcohol can do nasty "swelling things" to some of the rubber seats in aircraft carbs. They were intended to run on "pure" gas. Switching to mogas containing alcohol with out first changing the "offending rubber parts" can lead to swelling of the rubber. This can give you other problems. I wonder if changing back and forth with avgas/mogas produces alternating problem, now it works well/ now it doesn't. I wonder if it might be prudent to use the same carb on the engine in the aircraft as it had in the automobile. What can be done to adjust for mixture control. Would using a blower solve this problem? I hope to hear more on this from the members in the future. Regards, Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> water in the gas.
Hi Netters, I was suddenly reminded that in Canada, the "snomobilers" have a problem with water in the gas and having it freeze and plug things up. They can purchase a cloth container which holds a water absorbing substance. It is in a cloth bag which is attached by a string. It is stuck into the gas tank and the end of the string is attached to the bottom of the gas tank cap. The cloth bag sits on the bottom and any water that passes by is absorbed.A colour change of the bag, which can be removed for inspection tells you when to change it. Sounds like it might have some merit Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON> Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> reducing drag on projections.
Hi Netter, We must all congratulate Mark Jones on the beautiful fuselage job on his recent picture. I was struck by the electronic strobe unit sticking out of the top of the fuselage. A wedge shaped piece of plexi fastened to the back of the unit would be easy to fabricate and greatly reduce the drag that the round shape will cause. Regards, Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> measurement.
Hi Netters. Why bother being confused by metric/English measurements. Stop converting. Buy a tape measure that has Metric on the top half and English on the bottom half. You can get one that is about as long as a KR wing for $1. Then take your choice. Some times I find that when I am cutting a wooden piece I use which ever is the most convenient. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> mixing different adhesives
Hi Netters. Larry H was referring to the delamination of Steve Whitman's aircraft fabric on his wing. Epoxy is not involved in this case.The two adhesives did not stick well together because one was a nitrate base and the other was a buterate base. Steve should have known better but may be for what ever reason , we will never know, he did. Sure they held for 10 years but that was not good enough. Epoxy is not really any different. There are many things that I would never trust with epoxy. One of these is polyester, the regular adhesive in"regular" boat building fiberglass. They are worse than nitrate/butyrate bonds. When it comes to building a plane with epoxy, here I mean a wooden plane, epoxy is the best. However there are different types of epoxy. Some are thin and some are thick. If you are joining wood to wood and are using a fluid epoxy like the West system, be sure first to let the fluid epoxy sink into the wood then mix cabosil (silica jel) into another batch to thicken it . apply to the wet wood. Do not over clamp the two. The epoxy now will not run out of the joint and you will have a good bond. Other epoxy resins are thick. They will not run out of the joint but they may not soak too deeply into the wood fibres. I would trust the West system, properly used to make a wooden plane. I have used many epoxy system including T-88. I like the West best. I have been away and I am trying to catch up on my emails, which why I did not respond sooner. Regards, Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> translations
Hi Netters , A posting on the net by Eduardo Navarrete in Spanish can be easily read by using "Easy Translator 4 Deluxe". It would be courteous to reply in Spanish by using this tool to convert your English into Spanish and posting a reply. If the original builder had difficulty in English this would be appreciated by him. He should specify that a reply in another language would be appreciated. Rehards Harold Woods Orillia , ON.Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> adhesive for plexiglass windows. Flue prevention.
Hi Netters, Consider what the Automotive industry does. To glue the front windshield to the body of the car they use a black urethane adhesive. It is horribly sticky,hardens to a rubbery very strong bond such that the strength of the windshield/car frame is calculated as part of the roll over strength of the vehicle. It is expensive. I got some at an autoglass repair shop and paid around $20. CAD for a tube. Once you glue the plexi in place and let it cure for a day, it will be there for ever. So some of our members are now coming down with the "flue". Do not rely on a flue shot to prevent it. A simple herbal dose of "Olive Leaf Extract" (see your local health food store for it) is the best cold & flue insurance available. It is wide spectrum antiviral,antibacterial herbal extract and works well at low doses. Use 500 mg in the morning and again at bedtime. It is effective even for latent viruses and cold viruses. It safely penetrates your cells looking for viruses. It stops them by uniting with them and preventing them from replicating. This means that they cannot grow in your body. If you take it longer than 30 days straight you will have to add a friendly bacterial culture to your diet because the olive leaf extract will start destroying the friendly bacteria in your intestines, whose job it is, to assist digestion. I keep 4 bottles in the refrigerator in case the Asian Bird flue ever strikes. Believe me it works and it is safe. I wish you all a very Happy New Year, Health and may the wind under your wings be smooth. Regards, Harold Woods, Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> aileron hinges.
Hi Netters. A friend recently gave me a link to follow. It took me to , http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-aileron.html. It covers the design and Application of the ZODIAC's Hingeless Aileron. By Chris Heintz. I have known Chris for over 40 years. He is one smart Aero Engineer. When I first saw this design on a plane I thought that someone had lost their marbles. But it produced such a smooth top of the wing/aileron junction. Read his analysis of it and the simple testing to prove that it works. Now it is too late for me but why not a fibreglass skin hinge? Do it the same way. Make up a test situation and test like Chris did. OK Netters, there is the challenge. Take it up and run with it. Lets here comments pro and against. Regards Harold Woods Orillia,ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> more accurate distance of wheels above runway on landings.
Hi Netters, I would like to bounce this off all of you out there. The closer that you can monitor the distance that the main wheels are off the runway as you settle in for a landing, the better. You can purchase low cost laser measuring tapes. Would it be possible to shine the laser light out the bottom of the fuselage onto the ground? The laser then tells you how far the fuselage is off of the ground. In the hanger set up the fuselage so that the wheels are almost ready to touch the floor. Take a measurement. In the future turn the laser on and when you are almost at this predetermined distance, your wheels would be ready to touch. Turn on the gray matter. What can you come up with? Regards Harold Woods. Orillia,ON.Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> weight difference of wood vs. steel tube fuselage.
Hi Netters. Some one compared the Smyth Sidewinder steel tube fuselage to the wooden one on a KR2. I have had a Smyth Sidewinder fuselage hanging from the ceiling of my workshop for the last 20 years. I think that it was heavier than the KR but I am not going to take it down to weigh it. Perhaps I should sell it as I probably will never get around to building with it. It has been inspected, sand blasted and rust enameled on the outside. It is in a dry location. At the moment I hang all kinds of things from it.Convenient that way.Some visitor bump their head on it but that is their problem. If I sold it, it would be a good excuse to weigh it before it left. Regards Harold Woods Orillias, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> rudder return springs.
Hi Netters Re rudder return springs. I one flew Jodel which had return springs. One day the left rudder on my side (pilot) became un stuck and the rudder pedal fell flat on the floor. I could not get it up. I had no rudder control. My passenger was able to get out of his harness , get down on the floor , raise the pedal until I could get my foot on it. Thus control, again. We landed without any problem, My KR2M has a continuous loop. further more a system of pulleys on the cables infront of the rudder pedals has a spring tension built into it. Thus at all times there is about 35 lbs. tension in the rudder cable. It operates smoothly and is fail safe (I hope). Rehards Hariold Woods Orillia,ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> building fibreglass geer legs.
Hi Netters. Steve Phillabaum wanted information on making a fiberglass gear leg. I built my own. I used roving, which is fiberglass string, about the thickness of "butcher string". It came in a spool about a foot in diameter. I decided to build both legs at the same time I built a box form over twice the required gear length. It was about 3 inches wide and 1 inch deep.At each end of the box were rows and rows of nails. At this point I painted the entire inside of the box, nails enclosed with hot melted parafin wax., as a mould release agent.The roving was attached to the first nail strung along the bottom of the box, hooked over a nail at the other end, then strung back to the next nail in line. after the entire bottom of the box was covered with this "string" it was fibreglasses. I used a very slow hardener, Versamid 140. This gave a pot life of about 4 to 6 hours. After the box was full I set a piece of polyethylene over it and planed a closely fitted lid on the box.I squeezed the lid down with clamps starting at the center.This squeezed the excess epoxy out the ends. I removed the lid and plastic and added more layer of roving This was repeated until the box was filled to a depth of 1 inch with compressed roving. The lid was left on until the next day.The gear leg was removed and the wax was washed off with gasoline. I sacrificed an old band saw blade to cut the leg in half. I made this cut at an angle of about 25 degrees.Then back about a foot from where the cut slope begins I cut it off at 90 degrees. The short piece was then epoxied onto the main leg with the two 90 degree cut end together.This gave me a 2 inch thick leer leg which tapered down to 1 inch. The leg was mounted on a suitable aluminum bracket which was bolted to the front of the front spar.The gear leg has only one hole in it where it attaches to the bracket. Aluminum bars bolted to the bracket on the front and back hold the gear leg in firm position. A cover of 3/8" aluminum on top hold everything tight together. the other end of the gear leg has a spring steel plate bolted to it with 4 bolts. It was bent to suitably accept the wheel axel which was then bolted to it. I tested the gear leg by bolting it to a heavy support on one end and affixing a 2 x 2 x 1/8" x 10' angle iron to it. Weights were added and removed, checking to see that the gear returned back to it's original position. The weight was a 150 pound man that walked out on the angle iron. It bend of about 12 inches , the angle iron collapsed where it was bolted to the gear leg. The man was at about 9 feet from the gear leg end when the iron failed. I consider the gear leg good and strong. I subsequently have heard that the rear spring in a Corvette car has a suitable fiberglass spring . This should be investigated. before making your own. If any one wants diagrams of the box I would send it to them as an attachment. Regards Harold Woods Orillia,ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> fibreglass geer leg material.
Hi Netters, Brian Kraut asked is there any advantage to using roving(fiberglass string) over unidirectional fiberglass cloth in the building of the gear leg. My only thought on this is that the roving method keeps all of the string straight and tight. If you can keep the fibers straight and tight using the cloth then do it. It is a matter of what you have at hand and using it advantageously. Regards Harold Woods Orillia ON Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> tricycle/tail dragger pilots
Hi Netter. I would love to follow Jack Coopers advice. He is right but the problem with most of us is $$$. Regards Harold Woods Orillia ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> aileron balance weight construction.
Hi Netters, I enjoyed the photographs on Jerry & Dan's Aircraft Factory covering the aileron construction. May I suggest that instead of melting lead and pouring it into a mold, you consider making a Styrofoam plug, the size of the weight. put a layer of fiberglass on it. After it is hard, pour gasoline onto the Styrofoam to remove it. Now instead of hot lead just pour in lead shot mixed with automobile wheel weight, scrap lead pieces etc. (something like making concrete,(leadcrete LOL). Now if the correct weight had been used , pour onto the lead a fluid epoxy mix. It will fill the voids and lock the pieces of epoxy in place. You could have imbedded the aluminum arm in to the mix but put some holes and a bolt in it to act as an anchor in the leadcrete.Finish the outside of the balance weight ready for painting. Do a trial balance. If it is too heavy, drill out some of the lead and cover the hole with a foam plug and micro. I would be remiss if I did not issue the warning about the lead. Lead dust from sanding is very dangerous from a health point of view. It is after the small particles oxidize that the fun begins. If you inhale this oxide or get it into your body by any means you will inherit the nasty toxic effect of lead poisoning. Wear a mask , vacuum up all of the lead dust around the workshop, wash your hands. After all, you do want to pass your medical in the future, to fly your creation. Good luck Regards, Harold Woods Orillia,ON.Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> pop riveting to wood.
It is simple to pop rivet aluminum or fibreglass to plywood using a washer on the back side. Similarly if you are popping something to thinner spruce , use a back up washer. My couling has a framework of 5/8" spruce. The piano hinges are popped to it without back up washers. Every pop rivet is first washed in acetone before epoxy is applied to it before popping. The holes in the wood are covered with epoxy before the popping takes place. If popping occurs near the end of the wood and parallel to the anular growth rings, there is danger of the wood splitting as the rivet is popped. Use a larger drill hole in the wood and back the rivet up with a washer .Or use a long (1") rivet , remove the cental mandrill from it, add the epoxy, push it into place and fill the inside with epoxy.It will never come out, the piano hinge will be destroyed first. Harold Woods Orillia,ON.Can haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> thermostats for heat chamber control.
A standard 110Volt thermostat for baseboard heating might solve your problem.The line current goes through the thermostat. I keep my work shop not below 50 F (10C) with such a thermostat connected to an automotive interior car heater (750 watts). I think that if you wanted a higher temperatre range a bit of "adjustment" could be made, but you would have to calibrate it afterwards using a "meat " thermometer. If you use light bulbs as a heat source you should have a fan in the chamber to make the heat uniform. Just my thoughts on the matter. Harold Woods Orillia,ON,Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> dynel
Ther are several reasons why dynel is no longer used to cover composite aircraft. 1) It is not as strong as you are lead to believe.One layer of boat cloth(6 oz) is far stronger than 1 layer of dynel. You can tear a layer of finished dynel apart with you hands but you could not do the same with glass. Seeing is believing. 2)Dynel looks thin but when you apply the epoxy, it suddenly fuzes out like the hair on a scare cats back, thus requiring much more epoxy to cover it. This adds unneaded weight. 3)Dynel has a very slippery property. Try sanding the wing of a plane done in dynel and you will curse it. However if you want to slide down the asphalt on your belly after the geer let go then be sure that you put a layer on the bottom of you "boat" After trying it out I gave away enough dynel to do 2 KRs. Use glass. Harold Woods Orillia,ON.Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com.
KR> pitit location.
Hi Netters. It was my impression that the static port location should be at the widest part of the fuselage.The must be one on each side and they are interconnected. This is done because if yopu apply a bit of rudder and yaw the plane , the port on one side moves into the slipstream and raises the pressure while the port on the other side of the fuselage moves back out of the slipstream thus reducing the pressure. By interconnecting these two an average pressure is maintained. If you use only inside cabin pressure the difference between inside and outside can be variable because if you open a hot or cold air vent you change the pressure. An increase in speed may change the interior pressure of the cabin. These changes will make the differential pressure between the ram air and the average pressures inaccurate and variable. Any suggestions? Regards' Harold Woods Orillia,ON,Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> tail wheel spring.
Hi Netters. You can take all the precautions that you want to create the perfect tail whel spring and find that it was in vain.Years ago a friend meticulously suitably hardened his to what was to be the correct hardnes. He was performing high speed taxi tests on a short runway with high rock and trees at one end. He cauciously accelerated and was almost at the end when he got his tail up. I suggested that he should go back as far as possible and give it full power, raise the tail , power back and run down the field tail up for a bit then slowdown. He said "come in with me" ( I knew that it was not legal for me to do so). He gave it full power but before he raised the tail we found ourselves at 20 feet up.The rock at the end looked like mountains! He cut the power but it kept on at 20 feet. He kept bringing the stick back to slow it down. I fealt the stall occur.The bottom dropped out, It hit fairly flat but hard. It bounced and eventually stopped. There was a new problem. The tail of the fuselage was dragging on the ground. The tail spring had broken into 5 pieces.To get it off the field we went to a local auto wrecker and had a temporary tail spring made. The man took an old auto spring,asked "where do you want the first bend". He applied the torch and bent it as necessary. "What about the bolt holes?" Zap with the cutting torch! We asked what about the tempering of the spring, to which he replied " It's as good now as before I heated it". He was right.We bolted it into place and got off the field. It worked perfectly and remained on the plane thereafter with out ever having any further problems. I sometimes wonder about all the fuss and blather that we worry about on some parts. Sorry about the long winded tale. Regards Harold Woods Orillia,ON.Can haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR>Ken Rand Photo
Hi Netters. For those interested in a phot of Ken Rand and his plane at Oshkosh in 1975 you can check out the site at www.uaespaces.com This site is just gertting started, go to the section "Harolds Project" There you will find 2 pictures of Ken. You will have to copy and paste the link into your browser. regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.592 / Virus Database: 375 - Release Date: 2/18/2004
KR>dynel
Hi Netters. I originally bought enough dynel to do 2 planes. I used it on the wings. It is an interesting material. 1) it seems like an ideal material when you pick it up, thin flexable & smooth. As soon as you put the epoxy to it the fibres stand up like the hair on a scared cat. Dynel is a very slippery substance and highly resistant ti abrasion. Now try to sand it off! Good luck. The finished product is not strong and is easily ripped apart. I put a layer of regular 6 oz. boat cloth over top of it and gave the dynel away for free. My neighbour put a layer on a cedar strip canoe that he was building. He started the sanding and curse it (and probably me too). The final results looked beautiful. The first time that he put it in the water he ran the canoe heavily over a sharp rock which he could hear scrape fom end to end. His heart sank. Inspection showed NO damage or marks. Remember the slippery properties of dynel? If you are going to use retractable geer I suggest a final layer of dynel on the bottom of the fuselage, you know for that "wheels up landing" that you are going to make sooner or later. Regards Harold Woods Orillia,ON Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.592 / Virus Database: 375 - Release Date: 2/18/2004
KR>glider/motor glider/regular single engined airplane.
Hi Netters. The linc that was sent about gliders etc seemed to be defining each. There was nothing about the liscence requirements for each. If you are going to have glider pilots liscence then you will have a medical of a particular level. If you are going to have Private Pilots liscence then again you must have a medical but at a different level. I do not believe that a glider liscence covers the use of a motor glider but a private Pilots Liscence does. I do not know about the rules for a Recreational Pilots Liscence nor how far it covers.Someone else may shed some light on exactly who can fly a motor glider. I think that they wou;ld be fun. I hold a Private Liscence , with land, ski and wheels and for sea, float endorsements. I also hold a Glider Liscence. I believe that I can fly a motor glider legally. If I should fly a a motor glider without being "checked out" am I legal. If I then fly it on 5 occasions (alone) am I qualified to take a passenger? Am I now legal because I proved that I survived this length of time? I suggest that if you want to build and fly a KR type motor glider find our before you start what kind of liscences are required. Harold Woods Orillia,ON Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.577 / Virus Database: 366 - Release Date: 2/3/2004
KR>Smooth priome.
Hi Netter. I tried to get Smooth Prime but the" locals" had net heard of it. They sold me their "equivalent" Since the plane was upside down I thought that this would be a good time to try the Painting bit on the bottom. The toxic smell is terrible and a carbon respirater is mandatory. I was not impressed with the results. I added some 3M microballoons to the mix and rolled it on. Better results. I like the idea of add a number of layers ,sand the second to last and add a fluid last coat. This sound reasonable for getting rid of pinholes. On the subject of pinholes, will a water soluble urethane seal them?(the ones on fibreglass that is). If so, then do your priming job. I wonder if you took the cheapest 2 component urethane automobile paint available and added 3M microballoons to it to get the right consistancy , you would end up with a cheap substitute for Smooth Prime. (or is that what Smooth Prime really is?) . At one time there was advertised , an aircraft paint that was water soluble. I no longer can find a source for it. If you added 3M microballoons to it you would have an odor free , safe from fire hazzard paint. Any ideas out there? Harold Woods Orillia, ON,Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.567 / Virus Database: 358 - Release Date: 1/24/2004
KR>spelling- grammer etc.
Netters. Please be advised that I do not have the luxury of a spell checker on my computer.My fingers get lazy and make mistakes. Most people are intelligent enough to read between the lines. I do not want to spend time reading useless garbage about such such things. Thus I would ask those that are not interested in reading this garbage to exercise your right to quickly depress the cancell button. Problem solved. I like Peter Sanchez's description of this problem. Harold Woods Orillia,ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.567 / Virus Database: 358 - Release Date: 1/24/2004
KR>firewall.
I got permission from MOT Canada in Toronto to use .025 series 400 stainless as a firewall directly onto the front wooden fuselage on my KR. No asbestos or fibrefrax required. Harold Woods Orillia,ON> Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.563 / Virus Database: 355 - Release Date: 1/17/2004
KR>locating the spot under 2 layers of BID
Hi Netters before you add the BID take a black felt marker and mark the spots. Apply the BID and you can spot the black marker throught the BID. Harold Woods,Orillia, ON. Canada. haroldwoods@rogers .com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.560 / Virus Database: 352 - Release Date: 1/8/2004
KR>spam.
Hi Netters. After being hasty , I filled out Plaxo's form. Then did the research. Too late . I am worried about Plaxo. Personally I wish I had dropped it like a hot piece of aluminum.If you want links email me off line. I spend considerable time reading all KR letters. I hate wasting my time on spam, who does for that matter. I will try Justin's anti spam program. Has anyone tried torque tubes for aileron control? I have spent time drawing , then constructing a model out of wood, then making some of the parts in metal. Looks good so far. Next is to duplicate it in 4130, and install it. Has anyone done this before. I am getting tired or inventing first the axel and later the wheel. Harold Woods Orillia, ON.Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.560 / Virus Database: 352 - Release Date: 1/8/2004
KR>Your Contact Info
kr...@mylist.net, I'm updating my address book. Please take a moment to update me with your latest contact info. Click the following link to correct or confirm your information: https://www.plaxo.com/edit_contact_info?r=99271-18019836-614853007=web Name: kr...@mylist.net Job Title: Company: Work E-mail: kr...@mylist.net Work Phone: Work Fax: Work Address Line 1: Work Address Line 2: Work City, State, Zip: Mobile Phone: Home E-mail: Home Phone: Home Fax: Home Address Line 1: Home Address Line 2: Home City, State, Zip: Birthday: My current contact information: P.S. I've included my personal card below so that you have my current information. I've also attached a copy as a vCard. +- | Harold Woods | haroldwo...@rogers.com | | 15 Champlain St | Orillia,ON. | home: 705 325 6058. +- This message was sent to you by haroldwo...@rogers.com via Plaxo. To have Plaxo automatically handle these messages in the future, go to: http://www.plaxo.com/autoreply Plaxo's Privacy Policy: http://www.plaxo.com/support/privacy -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Harold Woods.vcf Type: text/x-vcard Size: 234 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://mylist.net/private/krnet/attachments/20040113/a536766e/HaroldWoods.vcf
KR>coating 4130 steel to prevent rusting
Gavin.- You must coat the 4130 steel because it will rust otherwise. (It loves to rust). You also want to firmly attatch the WAFs in place. Never trust "Paint and epoxy to stick together. Prime the 4130 with Epoxy primer (green in color) , then your flox or fibreglass or whatever will adhere to it. The automotive trade is now using an excellect epoxy primer containing zinc chromate .Most Auto paints adhere well to the epoxy primer (catalysed urethanes). Regards Harold Woods Orillia,ON Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 1/3/2004
KR>airfoils-2300 series.
Hi netters. Lloyd certainly pegged it down with his list of aircraft types that use the 2300 series wing section. I have some experience with a Jodel D-11. To soften the stall, wing strakes were added. They are triangular wooden blocks about 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/4 about 15 inches long. They were applied spanwise on the leading edge of the wing , about 2 feet out from the fuselage. They were about 10 degrees below the leading edge of the wing. Their purpose was the start the stall at the root of the wing. This worked well , provided warning of the coming stall and gave you good aileron control during the stall. Such a set up would probably work well on the KR. But then why bother ? The new airfoils for the KR seem to work well but I have not heard anything about the stall characteristcs. I am going to try the GAW-1 airfoil on mine. Merry Christmas to all. Harold Woods Orillia,Ontario, Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.553 / Virus Database: 345 - Release Date: 12/18/2003
KR>marine plywoods vs aircraft plywood
I sent this once before but it got deleted so I will try again. I contacted the Boulter Plywoods Corp. at 24 Broadway, Somerville MA 02145. www.boulterplywood.com phone 617-666-1340, fax 617-666-8956 This is information on the difference between marine and aircraft grade plywood. Both use the same waterproof glue. The core layers are all the same as the outside layers. The big difference is in the thickness of the layers.The aircraft plys are thinner than the marine plys. They sent me a 6 page catalog. They have okoume B S 1088, the finest marine grade in thicknersses from 1/16,1/8,5/32 in 3 ply, 1/4 in 5 ply, 3/8,1/2,5/8 in 7 ply.Aircraft Birch plywood GL-2 rated. in 1/64,1/32/1/16 in 3 ply, 1/8, 5 ply, 1/4, 12 ply. They carry Sitka Spruce in Marine mast grade and in spar grade. They have them in lengths up to 24 feet.Spar grade is a very good quality spruce. but always get the lumber 1/2 inch wider than necessary, slice off a 1/8 inch slice and subject it to bending.A clean break is very suspect a splintery jagged break is OK. If you find a weak break mark the region of the break on the board then take a slice off the opposite side and subject it to bending. If a break occurs mark the main board. If the marks lie accross from each other you may safely assume that the flaw goes completely through the board at this place.Cut it out. Now you have got two boards but you know that each is good .There are many places that shorter boards can be used. Also a good scarf joint using epoxy glue will yeild a board as good as the original. Ladder grade of sitka spruce is also a source of spar material but after you have checked it for annular rings per inch, slope of the grain and knots and pitch pocket,as well as density, give it the bend test. I am sure that if you contact Boulter, they will send you a copy of their catalog price list. Regards Harold Woods. Orillia,ON. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.545 / Virus Database: 339 - Release Date: 11/27/2003
KR>characteristics of epoxy.
The West system is probably the best all around epoxy for building a KR.It is unexcelled in glueing wood and in encapsulating it .There are several different cataylsts available depending on the temperature that you are working at and the pot life that you wish to work with.It wets out fibreglass cloth very nicely as well as any other brand. I have found that as a glue it is best to add some thickener such as cabosil to keep it from running out of a glue joint. You should not over clamp the glue joints as this squeezes too much of the glue out. The epoxy is stronger than the wood.Give the glue a moment or so to soak into the wood, add a bit more and place the two parts together. It really takes several days before this epoxy is ready for good sanding. This is why I like CGSX epoxy, it is ready for sanding the next day. It is a better glue than a laminating epoxy. It is the cheapest of all that I have come across. $120.00Can for a 2 gallon kit.(1 gal epoxy & 1 gal hardener) The West system runs about $180.00Can for a 1 gallon kit. The CSGX is a thicker resin(probably Shell 828) Apply a bit if heat and it quickly becomes very fluid but it will set up faster. Run a heat gun over the spread epoxy fibreglass to get the bubbles out and it's penetration is very good.It sets up much faster then. The original concept of Ken Rand to use dynel and epoxy produced a plane that was sufficiently strong for the job. Yet dynel is so weak compared to regular boat 6 oz. cloth that I am amazed that so much hype is now added , such that" the glass must be placed at 45 degrees on the spar for maximum strength" .Who cares, it is too strong as it is. A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.Epoxy fibreglass is not the weakest link in the present KR. There are other brands of epoxy out there. T-88 is a good epoxy. Bondo make a suitable alternative.I have tried others over the years ,I do not like the brittle ones. Any good epoxy resin whether it is Dow or Shell make good products but you must be careful of the hardener that your supplier uses. If you require a long pot life like when you are doing your spars or are working with wet wood, Use Versamid 140 hardener. It has 6 to 8 hour pot life and will set up in 24 hours, It is not brittle and makes an excellent fibreglass geer leg. When I said wet wood I mean it. That hardener loves moisture and will follow it into the pores of the wood taking the resin along to give a very firm grip on the wood. If any one was making a plane with wing ribs that are built up of thing strips. they are often steamed to get the shape of the front of the wing. They can be taken right out of the steamer and bent to shape in the wing rib jig and glued in place with plywood gussets etc. You do not have to wait for the wood to dry. Versamid is a thick hardener and thus is not a good laminating choice for fibreglass. Heat helps to make it fliud. You are going to have to experiment with the epoxy system that suits your purposes. If any one wants to try Versamid 140 hardener I will send you a few ounces by parcel post if you pay for the postage. I have a gallon left over and it is getting old like I am. I check it periodically and find that age has not bothered it in the least, as long as the epoxy resin is clean and relatively fresh. Once the gallon is gone so is the offer. Happy building, Harold Woods,Orillia,ON.Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.543 / Virus Database: 337 - Release Date: 11/22/2003
KR>polyester/epoxy
Hi Netter. I have spoken to several commercial boat builders about adding polyester onto epoxy. There answer is NO. It wont stay stuck. Then what about epoxy onto polyester. There answer is again " no " but in smaller letters. The claim is that vibration and flexing as in a boat will cause the epoxy to seperate after 12 to 18 months. There is nothing wrong with building a plane using polyester is you use the correct foam etc and can stand the smell. Essentially the impression that I got is dont mix the two. It is not necessary . Harold Woods Orillia.ON.Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.537 / Virus Database: 332 - Release Date: 11/6/2003
KR>Data on Franklin Engine.
Some one wanted data on a 6 cylinder Franklin Engine. I have a manufactureres data book.I did not look to long as my time is short tonight but I got the following data on the 6 cylinder model # 6A350C1. dry weight 150 kg. ! kg =2.2 lbs.) engine only 135 kg. Schribler carb. 2.2 kg. Bendix mag 5.4 kg. Ignition harness 2.7 kg. Champion spark plug 1.5 kg. Alternator drive 1.8 kg. fuel pump 1.35 kg. Prestolite alternator 5.5 kg. solinoid starter 8.7 kg. AC fuel pump 0.45 kg. governor Woodword 1.6 kg. There was much more , if the individual that wants it will contact me off line I will provide it. Harold Woods. Orillia,Ont. Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.537 / Virus Database: 332 - Release Date: 11/6/2003
KR>Tonin Bengalis' books.
Gavin. I got mine at EAA. That was before Toni's death. I believe that his wife is still selling the, Check at EAA headquarters. They came as a package of 3 books. Harold Woods Orillia,ON. Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003
KR>dynel
The original KR was covered in dynel. It is the most terrible stuff. It is a maximum problem to sand as it is very slippery. When the epoxy is added the cloth sticks up its fibres in all directions and soaks up too much epoxy. It certainly is NOT strong as compared to fibreglass.To apply glass at 45 degrees will give you the best strength for the fabric but who needs it? It is far stronger than dynel to begin with. Away back "when" I added a second layer of glass over top of the dynel.Now I have the heaviest wings around. There is only one use for dynel. It can be added over top of glass to produce a surface that is very scratch resistant.Try some on the bottom of the fuselage if you are using the old retractable undercarriage system. Then it might come in handy some day. Regards to all Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003
KR>closed loop rudder cables.
My rudder cables came from the rudder horn to the rudder pedals . The left cable then continues on to a pulley and back to the right pedal. Thus any movement in either direction is transmited to the opposite pedal. A spring pulls this pulley so an to put a tension on the cables. The tension is adjustable by means of an adjustable tension device. I have a 35 pound tension on the cables regardless of the deflection of the rudder itself. You do not notice this tension on the cables when you put your feet on the rudders. Harold Woods Orillia.ON.Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003
KR>pop riveting piano hinge to coulings.
Try this. Take a 5/8" square length of spruce, Fit a piece of piano hinge to it . Predrill the piano hinge and spruce every second piano hinge loop.Rough sand the under side of the piano hinge and then wash it in acetone and hang up to dry.Use long 3/4 " aluminum pop rivets. Place them in acetone and then dry them. Mix up some epoxy and cover the wood including the holes. Cover the loops of the piano hinge with vinyl or masking tape to keep the hinge clear of epoxy. Dip each rivet in epoxy and insert them in the holes. Pull each rivet in turn. Lay two layers of fibreglass over the top of the riveted area .This will be for the connection to the fibreglass couling.Let it cure for 24 hours. You will destroy the hinge in trying to tear it apart. The othe side of the hinge can go onto the stainless steel fire wall or onto the wooden structure using the same epoxy/pop rivet treatment followed by glass cloth over the riveted area onto the wood of the fuselage. I used 2" hinge on the top and two vertical sides to hold on the top couling.The bottom half is similarly fastened to the top by two hinges, fore and aft on each side. In all cases the pops are fibreglassed in as part of the "meat" in the sandwich. All comments both + and - are greatfully received. Harold Woods Orillia,ON.Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003
KR>enlarging the horizontal fin and elevator after it has been finished.
It has been indicated that the tail volume of the KR2 is too small. Greater elevator authority is justified in controling the stability of the plane. It has been suggested by competant aeronautical authorities that increasing the span of the elevator by 12 inches and increasing the cord of the elevator by 3 inches will improve it's flying characteristics. Nice idea after you have previously built it according to plans. I am going to add foam to the ends of the present horizontal stabilizer. (6 inches on each end. I will glass it onto the existing tips with several layers of epoxy fibreglass.I will then lay up a number of layers of glass for a new trailing edge and overlay it onto the existing trailing edge and feather it out. I guess that I will have to rebalance it again when I am done. Any comments from interested parties would be welcome either + or -. Harold Woods Orillia,ON,Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003
KR>tricycle gear
Hi every one. I send this out to all that can offer assistance. I have a friend that is building a KR2, he has progressed to the stage where he must do something about undercarriage. He wants to use a trigear. He can either buy it or make it. Who can he contact for information and prices on purchasing it? If he is going to make it, where can he find details about the gear? You can reply off net to myself at: haroldwo...@rogers.com or bravopi...@hotmail.com Thanks fellows. Harold Woods. Orillia,Ontario. Canada, --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003
KR>metric/English measurements
The next time that you buy a steel tape measure, be sure to get one that has English on one side, such as the top and metric on the other side , below the English. Thus you have instant conversion of one to the other for the measurement that you are doing. Personally I never try to convert. I now find that I use which ever is the most convenient.If it is easier to use one than the other , that is which I choose.This could only become a problem when you are recording the measurement and writing it down, then you must mark in the system of use. Harold Woods Orillia, ON Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 9/1/2003
KR>tail dragger time.
There seems to have developed a mystic about flying a tail dragger. The truth of the matter is really that the moment the tail is up and the tail wheel leaves the ground, you are flying an airplane and it matters not where your wheels are, front or back. I believe that you will learn during your taxi tests how to handle a tail wheeler.Read up on the subject. You will soon find that if you want good steering control you had better keep the stick well back to plant the tail wheel firmly on the runway. The application of rudder especially at higher speeds is different from that of a tricycle. You must watch very carefully for any change in direction and immediately reply with opposite rudder. I think it is here at this moment that one learns the difference in technique between the two types of geer. I tend to give a quick slap on the opposite rudder and immediately return to center.The "slap" is quite a large movement of the rudder pedal. You quickly learn how far and how long to hold the rudder deflection to keep the nose going straight down the runway. Some people suggest it looks like you are dancing on the rudder pedals. Start with slow taxi. learn how to apply differential braking for tight turns.Keep that stick back at all times.Learn how to "snake" your way down the taxiway so that you can see what is in front of you. Do higher speed taxi tests but keep the speed slow enough that you are not going to suddenly fly. Do a number of high speed taxi runs with the tail up, cut the power, gradually get the tail on the ground and hold it there with back stick. Finally on one of these high speed runs you will be up and off. It is at this moment that you realize that you are back to just plane flying an airplane. The fun will begin again when you decide to land. If you have memorized the attitude of the plane while taxiing, you have only to put it into the same position just over the runway and chop the power . As soon as the tailwheel is firmly planted, you are back to a high speed taxi test. All of this sounds simple but if you choose to do it under good wind conditions you should not have too much of a problem. Learning cross wind landings and all of the fancier things will come later after you are comfortable with the high speed taxi tests. So what if you spend 6 or 8 hours on the ground learning to precisely control the plane under all these "ground " conditions. This is part of the fun. There will probably be others that are going to take other view of this scenario, listen to them too. Check out the legals for your plane and for your country. Do what you feal is right for you.Ask for advice from all the taildragger pilots that you meet. Good luck. Harold Woods Orillia.ON.Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 9/11/2003
KR>wing section plotting.
Getting your wing shape is no big deal. You do not require a computer program. Get a roll of shelf paper. Roll off 5 feet of it and draw a line down the center. On let us say the left hand end mark the leading edge. Your coordinates are listed usually as + and - on varrious % of the cord. If you are using a 48" cord, a hand calculator will quickly give you the location on the cord line. Measure up using a square and mark the spot. Do the same for the downward measurement.After you have completed all of the marking take a welding rod and bend it to get the best fit on the marks. Draw along the rod with a pencil and Bingo ! you have an airfoil. Why put off to spring - do it now. Harold Woods, Orillia,ON.Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.512 / Virus Database: 309 - Release Date: 8/19/2003
KR>Intake manifolds.
Are you going to make your own intake manifold? I thought that I should until it was recommened to me to visit one of my local muffler shops. Some have very highly skillef pros. that can easilly make you an intake exactly as you want it. And at a reasonable price.Check it out. Regards Harold Woods Orillia,ON, Canada. haroldwo...@rogers.com
Fw: KR>Virus protection
- Original Message - From: <tlongcr...@aol.com> To: <kr...@mylist.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 2:57 PM Subject: KR>Virus protection > Sometime back someone posted access to a FREE virus protection > program.AVOor somthing like that. I wish he would post that URL again The free antivirus program that you are referring to is "AVG". Just pop the letters AVG into your brouser, look for the free edition, download it. It is excellent. Set it to update it's self every day or so and you are well protected.. There is no reason why anyone should become infected with a worm or bugbear virus. Harold Woods. Orillia,ON. Canada. L3V2G6 haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR>corrosion on 4130 steel
Marks problem of corrosion on the torque tube for his ailerons might be solved by the use of "rust proof compound L". This was a grease that was developed in the 1940s to prevent the rusting of military supplies sent by boat to the South Pacific. I forget which company made it. It sticks to metal like the proverbial sh*t to a blanket. You can apply it to workshop machines like drill press columns and it will be there years later. It is a grease and as such is a lubricant. Harold Woods Orillia, ON,Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR>wing stub problems.
Why walk on your wing stubs like they were covered in raw eggs? Cover them witha piece of carpet and then cover the carpet with strips of wood about 2 inches wide which run the 2 feet from the root to the tip of the stub (spanwise strips). They easily take the shape of the wing and you can easily take them off or put them on again. Mine are made from 3/4 inch scrap wood. Harold Woods Orillia,ON,Can haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR>3M epoxy for aluminum to aluminum bond.
The 3M company makes "Scotch weld", a 2 part epoxy that will bond aluminum if the parts are cleaned properly. There is no "bad" odor. It is an excellent adhesive for wood or even steel. A friend had a broken front wheel bearing on an English car. Rather than wait for the part to come he reconnected it with Scotch weld. A year later he traded the car in. No further problems. The stuf is expensive. It has an irregualar resen to hardener ration that is best done by weight. It is a slow setting epoxy. Color is blue grey. Since we are now a 2 computer family, I am personally : Harold Woods,Orillia,ON,Can. haroldwo...@rogers.com
