Re: KR> Melting lead

[Lawrence Bell via KRnet]

Tin can, fishing weights, wheel weights, propane stove, torch, it's all
good. I found the led does not stick to aluminum so I took a u channel to
form the sides and a thin piece of aluminum that I shaped to form the front
and back and fit it in the u channel. I taped the outside which will burn
but it hold the led long enough to form a nice weight.

On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 5:42 AM, Gary via KRnet 
wrote:

> I found it easy with a tin can and propane torch.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jan 28, 2017, at 1:06 AM, Ken Hurley via KRnet 
> wrote:
> >
> > So when the wife takes cooking utensil and makes contact with skull
> you
> > are now officially called a "pot head"!
> >
> > On Jan 27, 2017 11:09 PM, "Bill Masquelier via KRnet" <
> krnet@list.krnet.org>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I melt lead easily over an old Coleman camping stove in an old (junk)
> pot-
> >> no problem
> >>
> >> Bill Masquelier
> >>
> >>
> >> 
> >> From: KRnet  on behalf of Paul Visk via
> >> KRnet 
> >> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 7:26 PM
> >> To: KR EMAIL BOARD
> >> Cc: Paul Visk
> >> Subject: KR> Melting lead
> >>
> >> First a comment before my question.  In the book it says to use an old
> pot
> >> to melt lead down for the aileron counter weight.  I'll give you some
> >> advise. What you consider an old pot is might be different then what
> your
> >> wife considers an old pot is. Be forewarned??
> >>
> >> How do you melt a 5 lbs chunk of lead on the stove? I did an internet
> >> search.  Lead melts at 621 degrees.  I'm not even getting close to that.
> >>
> >>
> >> Paul Visk
> >>
> >> Belleville Il.
> >>
> >> 618-406-4705
> >>
> >> ___
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> of
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> >>
> >>
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KR> micro balloons in high build primer?

[Lawrence Bell]

 The question was if anyone used micro in high build primer. I don't
see an answer to that only other solutions to paint. My answer:
I have used Micro in high build primer. It is worth a try. If you use too
much it makes the paint soft for a long time. I think if you work with the
right mix, which is enough to give you more body but not so much that it
does not get hard, you may like it. You can't fill anything too deep. The
method of micro in resin has never been very useful to me. It takes a lot
of sanding and never seems to get it all the imperfections. Of course if
you make a perfect substructure you are all set, good luck on that. In the
build process everyone has their own favorite process. The key is to find
the one that works for you. The 4" foam rollers idea is good and worked
real well for me. I got them from Home Depot. The other thing is, after the
high build primer and micro use a real good polyurethane paint and it will
help harden the primer. I am a long ways from a professional painter but
after trying just about everything I settled with that. This is only meant
to answer your question not to say this is the bets method.
 Larry Bell

On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 7:49 AM, brian.kraut--- via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> I used Smooth Prime put on with a roller when I repainted mine and I
> really liked it.  Only comment I have on it is to make sure you vacuum
> or blow off the surface after sanding before you put on another coat of
> primer or the final paint.  You can get some small bubbles in it and
> when you sand off the top of the bubbles you wind up with pin holes.
> Not a lot of them and no problem to fill them, but if you don't blow off
> or vacuum the surface they fill with the sanding dust and you don't know
> they are there until you see them after spraying your final coat.  I
> filled the pin holes with icing and a quick sand in no time at all.
>
>
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Re: KR> micro balloons in high build primer?
> From: Larry Flesner via KRnet 
> Date: Tue, June 21, 2016 6:33 pm
> To: KRnet 
> Cc: Larry Flesner 
>
>
>
> I used Smooth Prime (
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/smoothprime.php?clickkey=30869
>
> ) 15 years ago when finishing my KR. It seems a bit expensive now
> but it wasn't cheap back then either. I don't recall how much it
> took but certainly not the three gallon it suggest in the ad, maybe a
> gallon and a quart. It is water based and I put it on a bit at a
> time with a 4 inch foam roll as I finished different areas of the
> plane. I covered it with cheap auto paint ($40 a gallon in early
> 2000) and it still looks like the day it was painted. Paint was
> never buffed out and I still have two spots on the left wing that
> have been in primer since 2004 where I cut in to the wing to fix a
> fuel leak. Nobody every notices the primer spots and I've just never
> bothered to paint them.
>
> The trick to eliminating fill is to get the foam right, get a good
> glass lay up, then cover with "deck cloth" for minimum fill. If you
> look "real close" you can see one of the primer spots in the photo.
>
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/024_24.JPG
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
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KR> what to look for when inspecting/buying a KR project

[Lawrence Bell]

Gary,
 You may be confused about the 50%. It is well explained in Kit Planes
magazine. The 50% applies to the build of the airplane. If you take over a
project that is over 50% amateur built by anyone it qualifies, the builder
doesn't have to be you. If you want a repair certificate for working on the
airplane you have to be listed as the builder when it is certified. They
explained a case where someone took over a project that had already
received an N number with another builder listed as the main builder. Even
though the buyer who took over the project did more than 50% he could not
get a repair certificate but he could get amateur built status on the
airplane. I just think you might be looking at the wrong criteria for your
objective.
 Larry Bell

On Sun, May 15, 2016 at 6:11 AM, Gary Robison via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> I have a KR-1 Boat  hanging in my shop if your interested  ?
>
> Building a KR-1.5 SS (super stretched) myself.
>
> Also a VW engine mount an other things.
>
>
>
> Gary Robison
> gr49 at comcast.net
> 724-45nine-eight nine four 1
>
>
> Subject: Re: KR> what to look for when inspecting/buying a KR project
>
> I do appreciate the replies. just to be clear what I'm after, I am ONLY
> interested in a KR1 single place, original style, less than 50% built. I
> know a lot of discussion takes place here and its easy to forget who is
> into what, but I have been talking about replicating Ken's original KR1 all
> along, except for some sensible improvements to enhance reliability/safety.
> And it will be tri-geared. To that goal, I have purchased a set of new KR1
> plans.
> If I can find a stock KR1 boat stage that would fantastic and they do
> occasionally come up.
> My question was what to look for in terms of construction detail that may
> indicate a poor build, especially indications that the woodwork cannot be
> used.
>
>
> ___
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KR> I can get spoiled flying up here.

[Lawrence Bell]

That explains it, Paul, you're way ahead of me I didn't think of voice to
text because I've never used it. Sorry I brought it up, Larry Bell.

On Sat, Mar 19, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Paul Visk via KRnet 
wrote:

> Your write Larry.  I use voice to text most of the time and there our
> times I miss something when I go back and proofread. I'm not much of a
> righter, butt eye do my best.  : )
> Paul ViskBelleville Il.618 406 4705
>
>
> Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 6. Original message
> ----From: Lawrence Bell via KRnet  Date:
> 3/19/2016  9:15 AM  (GMT-07:00) To: KRnet  Cc:
> Lawrence Bell  Subject: Re: KR> I can get spoiled
> flying up here.
> Hi Paul,
>  Not to be picky, but I think you mean "up here" unless I missed
> something. I always google stuff to make sure.
>  All the best, Larry Bell
>
>
> ___
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KR> I can get spoiled flying up here.

[Lawrence Bell]

Hi Paul,
 Not to be picky, but I think you mean "up here" unless I missed
something. I always google stuff to make sure.
 All the best, Larry Bell

On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 3:35 PM, Paul Visk via KRnet 
wrote:

> I took a load of Kubota tractors out to Medford Oregon this week. Before
> my next load I had to take a 34-hour break. So I decided to go fly. I went
> up to Grants Pass Or. K3S8. to rent a 172. The instructor and I flew out to
> Brooking Or. KBOK Then down the coast to Crescent City Ca.KCEC then back to
> Grants Pass. On the way out to Brooking. We flew though Canyons to the
> coast. I haven't done that since Alaska.  From Brooking to Crescent. We
> flew 500 ft of the ocean along the coast. That was fun flying around the
> big rocks.  On the way back I got some hood time. When we were almost back.
> I told Walt I really enjoyed the flight and wanted to get checked out. So
> at the end we did some slow flight and a couple of stalls then landed. I
> love taking friends and Young Eagles up and fly pass the Gateway Arch. But
> up hear is something special. Dan P. and John B. and everyone else who's up
> hear. You guys have it great up hear.Ray, I can add California to my list.
> : )
> Paul ViskBelleville Il 618 406 4705
>
>
> Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 6.
> ___
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KR> Pilot license

[Lawrence Bell]

Very interesting, Gary, I guess that's Alaska.

On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 11:35 AM, Garry Cowles via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Went to a WINGS. Seminar several rears ago and the presenter stated that
> the goal for the year was to get at least 40% of the pilots in Alaska
> licensed
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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>

KR> Wing Extensions

[Lawrence Bell]

Steve,
 The extended wing is the KR2S design. The spars are built with webbing
on the front and back where the KR2 only has it on one side. To extend the
wings you would have to change the spars to KR2S design and basically build
a new wing. I had the same objective as you and am putting KR2S wings with
the larger stabilizer on a KR2.
 Good luck, Larry Bell



On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 5:55 AM, Virgil N. Salisbury via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

>
> RR says not to extend the wings. Do the engineering before doing
> so, Virg
>
>
>
> On 3/15/2016 11:43 PM, Steve Goosic via KRnet wrote:
>
>>I'm new to the KR scene, having acquired a stock KR2 a few months
>> back, that about 90% completed. I'm looking to make a few modifications,
>> such as increasing the length of the horizontal stabilizer for better pitch
>> control and extending the wings to decrease the stall speed, to meet the
>> Sports Pilot requirements.  I've read comments in the archives about
>> extending the wings, but I haven't found any specific information on the
>> correct way of doing this. Since my wings are already built (RAF48), do I
>> extend both wing spars or is it possible to add additional foam to the
>> existing wing end and shape to form?  Also, how much further do the wings
>> need to be extended? I'd be interested in hearing from any of you who know
>> or have done this.
>> Steve
>> ___
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KR> Can this plane be fixed?

[Lawrence Bell]

It seems obvious to me someone removed the aft deck and laid it on the
grass. Everything in the picture looks good. I have the same design and am
glad to hear it will be fine at 245 mph since I don't plan to exceed 135
mph.
Larry Bell

On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 9:04 AM, John Miller via KRnet  wrote:

> LOL!
>
> -Original Message-
> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mike
> Stirewalt via KRnet
> Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2016 6:01 AM
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Cc: laser147 at juno.com
> Subject: KR> Can this plane be fixed?
>
> The whole top half has come apart from the bottom.  It appears to have just
> fallen off.  It's just lying there on the ground next to the plane.
> Tornado?  Vandalism?  A real mystery.
>
> The plane says "Experimental" on it so clearly the builder was
> experimenting
> with something to keep the top half of the plane connected
> to the bottom half and it must not have worked very well.   Seems to have
> just fallen off!  I think a tornado would have carried it some distance.
>
>
> The builder did a very nice paint job.  Very consistent and businesslike.
>  Clearly the builder had a professional painter do the work.   No swirley
> stuff.
>
> I think there's some good ideas incorporated into this experimental design
> but clearly it needs some reliable way to keep the top half
> attached to the bottom.
> 
> Extended Stay America
> Get Fantastic Amenities, low rates! Kitchen, Ample Workspace, Free WIFI
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/56c9a7744ef0d277455cest03vuc
>
>
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KR> VW engines

[Lawrence Bell]

Hi Mike,
  Bill Masquelier and I have the basics for a type 4 across the field
from you. We have the cases, crank, heads. We got it because of Mark
Langford's initial enthusiasm for that type VW. They do the machining up at
Lake Elsinore. If you or anyone else is interested let us know. We are
using a type 1 for the enumerated reasons.
  Larry Bell

On Fri, Jan 22, 2016 at 8:30 PM, Mike Stirewalt via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Would somebody take the time to explain why the Type IV engine is not the
> engine you usually see in homebuilts.  Why is the Type 2 favored?
>
> Mike
> KSEE
>
>
> 
> Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.
> http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2
>
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KR> Aileron Hinges

[Lawrence Bell]

Hello Matt,
 I used a 1-1/16" wide 6' hinge p/n MS20257p2-6 Aircraft Spruce has
them. You're supposed to use stop nuts on the back of the spar but good
luck keeping resin out of them.
 Larry Bell

On Sat, Jan 2, 2016 at 6:07 AM, Matt Quimby via KRnet 
wrote:

> Hello all, I?ve got two questions. First, what size piano hinge is used
> for the ailerons? Second, how are they attached to the false spars? I?m
> looking at countersunk bolts into captive nuts flexed onto the back of the
> spars, but my 1979 version of the plans doesn?t say anything on the
> subject. How did some of you who have finished your projects attach these?
>
> -Matt Quimby
> kr2pilot.blogspot.com
> ___
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KR> WAS - Diehl nose gear spring locator tube.

[Lawrence Bell]

That's great Steve! I could sure use that nose gear, the other parts are on
and worked perfect.
Thanks, Larry

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 8:14 AM, Steve G. via KRnet 
wrote:

> Not quite a year but guilty.  The fork is machined.  I had one of my
> workers
> clean the shop several months ago and haven't been able to find our box of
> pivots since. I have yours and one more machined and ready to go once I
> find
> the box.  I will try to find them this weekend.  Sorry for the delay.  You
> did get the gear leg and the rest of the order though as you asked for,
> yes?
>
> FYI, outstanding plans orders should be completed soon. We only have a few
> items left before all parts and plans orders are current. I have been
> spending more time in the hangar trying to make a transition from
> construction to other endeavors.
>
> Carbs - Since purchasing Ellison Fluid Systems we have been busy with shop
> renovations, servicing and overhauls. We have a batch of EFS-2's nearly
> ready for assembly.  The bodies are back from the platers so they just need
> assembly. We will have several on the shelf soon if anyone is interested.
>
> Steve Glover
>
>
>
>
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KR> Diehl nose gear spring locator tube.

[Lawrence Bell]

That's the best exchange I've seen, a problem with a good solution! My
problem is to get my nose fork from Steve I ordered and paid for a year ago.
Larry Bell

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 7:15 AM, jon kimmel via KRnet 
wrote:

> I'm glad I asked.
>
> https://sites.google.com/site/mykr2stretch/
> https://sites.google.com/site/mykr2stretch/parts-for-sale
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KR> GPASC dual-plug 10mm plugs?

[Lawrence Bell]

Mark and JL,
 I have a comment on the studs. Great planes sells a set of studs that
is 200% stronger than the original. Now, why would they do that? Because
the original do not handle the tensile strength requirement. I replaced
them on a Hapi engine where I found the studs were stripping. The new studs
from great planes where a happy solution. I find when they increase the
strength on something there is usually a reason.
 Larry Bell


On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 12:46 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> I got my answer privately on the 10mm spark plugs.  They are NGK 4629
> C7HSA.  NGK also makes 8mm plugs, if anybody's wondering.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> http://www.n56ml.com
>
>
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KR> AS number for Mouldless Composite Sandwich 3rd ed

[Lawrence Bell]

Gary,
 Aircraft Spruce doesn't give a number, but I found it under "composite
construction". It is Burt Rutan's basic fiberglass sandwich construction
instructions and was my manual on that subject together with the build
manual. Basically, I built a frame of 2x4s with 1/2" plywood. I did it by
using 8' length 2x4s and cut a 4x8 1/2" piece of plywood in half for top
and bottom. I put a cross member 2x4 every 2 ft and glued and screwed the
whole thing together. I sanded one side and covered is with 2' brown
wrapping paper on which I drew the side frame. The platform allows you to
screw on blocks to hold the frame while gluing. Use wax paper under the
glue joints to be able to get the side frame off the platform. I divided
the sides in half and made two front halves and then two back. I tapered
the longerons at the joint end per FAR 43.13 to splice the front and back
together. To join the halves I drew the center section on the paper to keep
everything straight. I glued doublers top and bottom for the splice and
extended the doubler on the top called out by the drawing past the joint.
This way I didn't have to have a 12' or 14' table and if you order the cap
strip it can be shipped a lot easier and is cheaper and I think the joints
give a little more strength for when you bend the whole thing for the boat.
I have my platform hung on the side of my fence and put it on saw horses
when I need a big work bench in the back yard.The other option is to make a
platform 12' or 14' and order that length cap strips. To build the boat I
screwed a 4x8' piece of plywood on top of the platform and then moved the
whole thing back and forth as I built it.
 That is what worked for me, hope it helps you, Larry Bell

On Mon, Jun 8, 2015 at 8:30 AM, Gary Ainsworth via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> What is the Aircraft Spruce number for this book ? (or a dimensioned
> drawing of the work platform)
> Thanks
> Gary - Canada  garyains "at" kwic.com
>
> -Original Message- From: Lawrence Bell via KRnet
> Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 4:44 PM
> To: KRnet
> Cc: Lawrence Bell
> Subject: Re: KR> Min Size of Build Space question
>
> Chris,
> I had the same problem. A 8x20 ft trailer is more than I had. First
> there is a manual titled "Moldless Composite Sandwich 3rd Edition" sold by
> Aircraft Spruce. In there they have you build a " work platform" instead
> of a
> large bench. change options ..
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
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> options
>

KR> Min Size of Build Space question

[Lawrence Bell]

Chris,
 I had the same problem. A 8x20 ft trailer is more than I had. First
there is a manual titled "Moldless Composite Sandwich 3rd Edition" sold by
Aircraft Spruce. In there they have you build a work platform instead of a
large bench. The reason why that worked for me is that it was easier to
stow than a large bench. You have to make it flat and rigid enough to make
thing straight. I put mine on a roll around work bench on the patio when I
was building my boat. I built my roll around bench with storage space under
it for wood tools. I had to cover everything every day from the weather.
You could use your shed with an awning or something for the extended
length. After I built my boat and installed the stub wing spars with gear I
continued building in the back yard. If you could roll yours in and out of
the shed that would be better. An 8x20 trailer would of course handle
everything, I don't know how hot you get in the summer. The reason why that
composite manual is good is that it is the basic Burt Rutan composite
construction manual which was my basic guide. Every step of construction
presents its challenges and working them out is a rewarding part of the
build.
Good luck, Larry Bell

On Sun, Jun 7, 2015 at 11:46 AM, Chris Prata via KRnet  wrote:

> HI All,
> I am getting closer to my 25 year dream to build a KR1. The only obstacle
> is a workshop. I do have a 20x30 fabric hangar at the airport but it is not
> sealed at the bottom (this is by design for wind load protection) and it is
> 30 mins away. My yard is extremely small, and has a 10x10 shed which is
> obviously not big enough. I am not sure I could expand it, and would need
> special permission I think because it is against the property line.
> I was THINKING to get a 8x20 cargo trailer and just use that. A KR1 is
> only ~12-13ft long tail to spinner. This would allow a 24" bench at the
> front end. The width WAF to WAF is what, 4ft or so?
> The other option was for us to sell and move to a house with a garage or
> basement, but for a couple reasons that may not be wise (besides, we have
> this house just how we want it, and everything has been fixed).
> It does seem very key to have the work space at home so as to put that
> couple hours in here and there which would never happen off site.
> Thoughts and Ideas on min build-space would be welcome!
> Thanks and happy building/flying!
>
> Chris
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> KR transponder/2020 ADS-B

[Lawrence Bell]

That is some real good information, Jeff. I like the answer to the question.
Larry Bell

On Fri, Mar 13, 2015 at 9:07 PM, Jeff Scott via KRnet 
wrote:

>
>
> > Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 at 9:56 AM
> > From: "Bill Masquelier via KRnet" 
> > To: "KR List" 
> > Subject: KR> KR transponder?
> >
> > We are getting our KR2 close (year or two) to completion-
> > in our area we will need a transponder (San Diego)
> > We may as well go with a "mode S" since it will be required soon.
> > What is the collective opinion of the group for a "modestly priced" one
> that will work for us?
> > Bill Masquelier
>
>
> Bill,
>
> Since the others on here have cleverly suggested used mode C transponders
> rather than answering your question, I'll give this a shot.
>
> If you're looking for a Mode S transponder that will be compatible with
> the ADS-B out equipment, I would suggest buying a Trig, either a TT22 or
> TT31 depending on panel space available.  The TT21 will also do 1090-ES,
> but the broadcast power doesn't meet the 2020 standard.  The Trig TT22
> without a face is also the transponder of choice used in conjunction with
> the Dynon Skyview Avionics suite.
>
> Of course your other option would be to go with a compact Mode C
> transponder and a UAT ADS-B out unit like the NavWorX unit.  If you are
> starting with a clean slate for an installation, it will be less expensive
> to equip with mode-S (1090-ES) than to buy a mode C transponder, then add a
> compliant UAT transmitter.
>
> We did some ADS-B performance testing last weekend while traveling from
> Tucson to Los Alamos.  The FAA now has an email address you can email some
> basic data and they will check your last flight with ADS-B out and email
> you a report on the performance of your ADS-B unit.  We tested my Skyguard
> TWX and a Dynon Skyview with a Trig TT22 mode S transponder.
>
> The Skyguard unit meets the performance standard, but fails to meet the
> ADS-B rule because it doesn't have pressure altitude as part of it's
> broadcast.  That is a problem come 2020 as their current units don't have
> any methodology for adding pressure altitude.
>
> The Dynon Skyview unit with the Mode-S Trig transponder meets the ADS-B
> rule, but failed to meet the performance standard due to the inaccuracy of
> the Dynon GPS unit.  That can be easily corrected with a new GPS puck,
> which Dynon will undoubtedly be offering.
>
> For today, if one was planning to use a mode-C transponder and a UAT out
> (which I wouldn't recommend for a new installation), I would use the
> NavWorx unit.  It is listed at $799, but you'll find once you get done
> equipping it to actually work, you'll have roughly $1600 invested.  The
> NavWorx unit can be used with an inductive pickup that goes around your
> transponder coax cable to pick up your pressure altitude and squawk code
> for retransmit in the UAT Out signal if you don't want to have to run a
> gray code cable to the unit.
>
> -Jeff Scott
> Los Alamos, NM
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
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> options
>

KR> KR transponder?

[Lawrence Bell]

Bill, this one at Spruce looks pretty good, Larry

On Fri, Mar 13, 2015 at 8:56 AM, Bill Masquelier via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> We are getting our KR2 close (year or two) to completion-
> in our area we will need a transponder (San Diego)
> We may as well go with a "mode S" since it will be required soon.
> What is the collective opinion of the group for a "modestly priced" one
> that will work for us?
> Bill Masquelier
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>

KR> Greetings

[Lawrence Bell]

Trevor,
 I have a couple of observations from your information. You bought a kr
in California and apparently took it back to Minnesota. The plane is 85-90%
complete which usually means it has a lot of work left, but has an N
number. The belly is not fiberglassed under the plans, it would add a lot
of weight which you don't need. Some builds have a one piece main gear
which extends below the belly and use an air ramp in front of it which
could be fiberglassed . Tearing apart a brand new engine which has not been
used for a while would do it more harm than good. I would check everything
out change the oil and test run it for any problems. I would not upgrade
anything until you fly off the 40 hrs. New fuel tanks in the wings would be
a major alteration. The first thing you have to do is get it safely in the
air which means getting the build manual from the person who sold it and
making sure it was done right,  a careful weight and balance and a lot of
high speed taxiing. If you have to travel you're better off using the
airlines, The KR is for fun. We had a gathering in California last year and
some of our most experienced fliers couldn't make it for various weather as
well as mechanical problems, so be safe. We want to keep all our military
guys safe as well as others. If you are stationed in California, we are
building and have some built KRs in San Diego you would be welcome to come
and talk about it.
 Larry Bell

On Wed, Jan 21, 2015 at 2:37 PM, Trevor Norman via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Good afternoon (at least I believe its day time over there)
>
> I am new to the group, and I wanted to take a couple moments to introduce
> myself.
>
> I am Trevor Norman, from Minnesota, and I had recently purchased N42VK
> from a guy in California. I am currently with the military and deployed for
> another couple weeks. Basically, I'll have some R and leave to burn off
> at home when I return and I figure that working on my new purchase would be
> a wise use of my time.
>
> I'm a low-time student pilot, with time in Mooney 20J, Seminole, Arrow,
> and other various aircraft sleek and high performance aircraft.
>
> I plan on finishing everything up to my instrument rating by the end of
> June/early July, and I have to travel to the east coast, so I'm looking at
> some help in trying to get the airplane ready for it's trip.
>
> The current state of the aircraft is probably 85-90% complete, I have to
> clean up the engine, purchase about $1400 in lights, instruments and a
> vacuum system, and finish the fiberglass of the under belly and a wing tip,
> then it'd be off to Phase I testing.
>
> Some questions that I have.
> The engine is the RevMaster 2100 series engine, it has very low time on it
> (basically brand new), but I do not have the manual for it. I have reached
> out to RevMaster to purchase a copy, but they have not as of yet returned
> my email. So, is there anyone that has a RevMaster 2100 series engine
> manual that they have collecting dust that I could purchase?
>
> With regards to cleaning the engine, I was told that the engine has been
> sitting for a while, so I'm interested in finding out how available are the
> parts, if I find corrosion on the engine? It was held in California for
> many years, and the seller stated that the engine does not require an
> overhaul, but just needs to be "cleaned up" so I'm going off the assumption
> that I'll have to break the whole thing down and inspect it.
>
> While on the subject of engines, I've read somewhere that the RevMaster
> could potentially take automotive fuel instead of aviation gas, is this
> correct? I'm assuming if so, it'd be the 93 octane fuel, but want to hear
> from the experts.
>
> I'm looking at adding flaps/spoilers to the aircraft to help manage it on
> the approach and landing, what are some suggestions for that? I've seen
> belly boards, and flaps, but I'm wondering if spoilers would be of benefit?
>
> Next, I have a contact who is able to provide me some wing tanks, what are
> some of the best ways to install the tanks and run the lines?
>
> I was doing some research and some of the common problems associated with
> the aircraft is fuel related. What are your experiences with fuel system
> issues?
>
> As far as inspecting the aircraft, what am I looking for as far as
> imperfections in the carbon fiber/fiberglass? Are there easy means of
> inspecting it for quality?
>
> And lastly, what kind of advise can you give me? I bought the plane cheap,
> I know the resale value is not very good on the aircraft (which is why I'm
> taking over someone else's project).
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Trevor Norman
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see 

KR> Bellyboard

[Lawrence Bell]

Mike,
I love that math/ geometry, and science, keep it coming.
 Larry Bell

On Fri, Jan 2, 2015 at 12:58 AM, Mike via KRnet 
wrote:

> Hi George,
>
> It?s not a ?Brit thing?. In geometry ?normal? is the expression used to
> describe a line which perpendicular to a surface. In the case described in
> the research paper, the flat plate was rigged in the wind tunnel so that it
> was normal to airflow. On a KR fuselage, the bellyboard would only be
> normal
> to the flow if it was deployed at 90 degrees.
>
>
>
> Developing nations have no cause to feel inferior!
>
>
>
> Have a good 2015.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: gluejam [mailto:gluejam at cox.net]
> Sent: 01 January 2015 19:05
> To: Mike; KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Bellyboard
>
>
>
> Mike -
>
> Perhaps you can explain why in the report the term, "normal to the airflow"
> rather 'than parallel with', or 'perpendicular to' the airflow is used.
>  Is
> that a common reference in the UK?   It just seems a little nebulous to me
> in understanding immediately upon reading the report, and it would seem
> sensible to think that normal would be in line with airflow . . .
> but then ours (US) is a lower grade society, after all !!
>
> George
>
>   _
>
>
>
> On 12/31/2014 6:19 AM, Mike via KRnet wrote:
>
> A little science from English researchers in 1957
> http://naca.central.cranfield.ac.uk/reports/arc/cp/0323.pdf but I'm sure
> there must be more recent published findings from elsewhere.
>
> This suggests that a solid airbrake produces a bubble of reduced airflow
> behind the brake with airflow velocity fluctuations occurring around the
> edge of the brake which may cause vibrations to the structure. Perforations
> in the airbrake reduce this effect and were found to be more effective
> towards the centre of the plate than around the periphery.
>
> From the Pprune forum, this explanation was offered: "Perforation reduces
> buffeting downrange of the speed brake, and reduces its interference with
> flying surfaces or the fuselage or wing or horizontal stab. Remember, the
> speed brake is there to create drag, but not undesirable flight
> characteristics. A perforated brake doesn't create nearly the airflow
> disruption, pitch change, or load on the surrounding and supporting
> structure that a solid brake might create. The number and placement of
> holes
> are important considerations, and part of the design. Holes permit a
> lighter
> structure that takes less of an airload, reducing not only the weight of
> the
> brake assembly but the force required to actuate it and the structure
> around
> it that must support the load. Remember that much of the time, that speed
> brake isn't anything but dead weight."
>
> Mike Mold
> Devon, UK.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mac
> McConnell-Wood via KRnet
> Sent: 31 December 2014 10:35
> To: Herbert F?rle; KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Bellyboard
>
> The RAF Vulcan bomber had solid airbrakes-no holes (which enabled this 90
> ton delta to descend vertically-..been there..)
> Mac
>
> On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Herbert F?rle
>   wrote:
>
>
>
> any Test,however it is performed,gives a lot of informations! The
> aerodynamic principles are always the same ,also in the case of the hot"
> bellyboard -drag" discusion.For me it's important the location of the
>
> board
>
> and I think the place underneath the rearspar is very well chosen ( far
> enough behind the CG ,to give the Kr a small amount of direction stability
> like a dragchute and the waketurbulences does'nt hit the HS !) I 'm
> convinced,a board without holes  are more effectiv ( one big
>
> waketurbulence
>
> produce more drag compared to many small ones).
> I'm also think,a big advantage of the bellyboard is the fact ,that you can
> lower the nose of the Kr on final for better sight( wether you have to
>
> push
>
> or pull the stik )!
> Herbert
> German Kr builder .
>
>
> Von meinem iPad gesendet
> ___
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>
>
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>
>
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> 

KR> GONADS

[Lawrence Bell]

I agree with Dan, Larry Bell

On Mon, Dec 1, 2014 at 2:28 AM, Dan Heath via KRnet 
wrote:

> Sorry, I can't help but comment on this one statement.  I met Colin at the
> KR Gathering and I considered it an honour and privilege to spend some time
> conversing with him.  Given what Colin has done, I think he must have
> bigger
> gonads than most anyone on the planet.
>
>
>
> Colin, thanks for participating on the KRNet.  It was great to hear from
> you.  Please keep in touch.
>
>
>
> See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
> the pics
>
>
>
> 2105 KR Gathering - McMinnville, OR.  September 3 - 6 -- See U There.
>
>
>
> Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
>
> Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
>
> Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
>
> Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
>
> Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
>
>
>
> Best Interior and Panel at 2008 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
>
>
>
>
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
>
>
> You have far bigger gonads than I do
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>

KR> Website update

[Lawrence Bell]

Thanks, Paul, I talked to you about it at the gathering but it helps to
have the pictures and instructions, Larry Bell

On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 4:02 PM, ppaulvsk at aol.com 
wrote:

> I came across this website long time ago on how to finish your  composite
> surfaces for painting.http://curedcomposites.com/finish.html It
> talks about applying micro to the whole surface then sand down with
> different sanding board.
> One thing that I would change is with the micro.  After mixing a vary
> stiff batch. Thin it down with MEK. Than add some more micro. Then thin
> that down to a consistency of leveling compound.  Poured on the surface and
> help it level out. it takes longer for it to cure but after it does sand it
> down.  You come out with a perfectly flat surface or whatever kind of
> surface you want.  This is the way I did it on E4-B's in the Air Force.
>
> Paul Visk
> Belleville Il
> 618 406 4705
>
> Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!
>
> - Reply message -
> From: "Lawrence Bell via KRnet" 
> Date: Tue, Nov 11, 2014 10:48 am
> Subject: KR> Website update
> To: "stefkr2 at kpnmail.nl" , "KRnet" <
> krnet at list.krnet.org>
>
> Steph and Dad,
>  That's the first blow by blow I've seen on doing the finish, thank
> you. I'm not sure about the auto filler, sounds heavy, but you did a
> beautiful job. The best step I noticed was a complete cover of mocro
> mixture. I have been doing it spot by spot and plan to  change to your
> system.
>  Thanks again, Larry Bell
>
> On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 8:07 AM, stefkr2--- via KRnet <
> krnet at list.krnet.org>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi kr-friends
> > We did a update to our website.
> > Now we need to finish everything inside so we can do a weight And
> balance,
> > then the engine.
> > Stef
> >
> >
> > --
> > Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see
> > http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> change
> > options
> >
> ___
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>

KR> brake problem at Barnwell

[Lawrence Bell]

Mark,
 You have given us some outstanding ideas on building, so looking at
those brakes surprises me. The disks look very thin which wouldn't give
much heat transfer. I got a set that I think is Matco with nice thick disks
and good pads but they have ball bearings on both sides versus tapered on
one side for side load . They came off a retractable setup. I'm wondering
if that is any good. I have thought a lot about backup braking but don't
have any idea how.
 Larry Bell

On Sun, Nov 9, 2014 at 5:43 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Folks at Barnwell this weekend mayb have noticed I spent a lot of time
> fooling around bleeding my brakes Saturday morning.  When I landed Friday
> afternoon, I discovered I had no brakes at all!  Good thing it's a 5000'
> runway there.  If I'd been at home, I'd have ended up in either a swamp or
> a corn field, neither of which is particularly appealing.  Of course I
> should have tested the brakes before I left, but given that they won't hold
> the plane at full throttle (not even close), I've developed the habit of
> pulling off the asphalt into the grass, and doing a quick runup in the
> grass to check engine operation.  Apparently I never actually used the
> brakes to realize that they didn't exist before takeoff.  Energy
> conservation, I guess.  And yes, the checklist needs updating.
>
> Anyway, even after bleeding from the bleeder up to the reservoir using an
> oil can from the bleeder end (thanks, P.F. Beck!), I still had no brake
> pressure on the right side, so further investigation revealed brake fluid
> puking out of the innards when the pedal was pushed.  Probably a blown cup
> seal, which wasn't going to get fixed until I got home.  But how to get
> into my 2600' long strip?  I didn't even entertain the thought...I landed
> at nearby MDQ instead, with 6500' of runway.  No problem, right?  As luck
> would have it, given that it was the coldest morning of the year so far, I
> had topped the tires off before I left on Friday morning with 50 psi of
> air.  Of course I didn't think of this until I was flying back home, or I'd
> have bled some out.  I used well over 5000' of MDQ's runway to get stopped,
> and I finally switched the engine off to make the last turnout before the
> end.  I found out this morning the runway has an uphill and a downhill, and
> I landed downhill.  Duh.  Mental note to self...pay attention to such
> things in the future.
>
> I came back Saturday night with new cup seals and pads, and rebuilt the
> brakes by flashlight, and this time the bleed job held.  See the photo at
> http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/brakes/toast.jpg for the culprit...pulverized
> brake pad and a cup seal that looks more like a fried egg than a brake
> fluid seal.  Looks like neither belongs on an airplane!
>
> I think I see a set of Matcos or Grove brakes in my future.
>
> I have a set of "vintage" Enginetics go-kart brakes for sale though,
> "freshly rebuilt", if anybody's interested..
>
> --
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> http://www.n56ml.com
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> EAA Corvair Building

[Lawrence Bell]

That was was very inspirational, Dan, thanks, Larry Bell

On Sun, Nov 9, 2014 at 5:14 AM, Dan Heath via KRnet 
wrote:

> I just watched this, after coming back from another Corvair College in
> Barnwell, SC, where this was shot.
>
>
>
> If anyone ever asks you why you build airplanes, why you devote so much
> effort to this, just tell them to watch this.
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvXAX0C2q5c
> 
> =youtu.be
>
>
>
>
>
> My Panther Building Documentation at  
> PantherBuilder Web Site
>
>
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
>
>
>
>
> A nice youtube from EAA on building the Corvair. Those of you who fly
> Corvairs or had Corvairs may see some people you know.
>
> It was nice to see the EAA show something that represented the
> "Experimental" part of our associaton go here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvXAX0C2q5c=youtu.be
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> nvaero

[Lawrence Bell]

Sorry for the typo, that's have not heard back. I just sent the e-mail a
couple days ago.
Larry Bell

On Thu, Oct 30, 2014 at 2:58 PM, lebell8978  wrote:

> I sent him an e-mail just to keep in touch about my order but have now
> heard back.
> Larry Bell
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Kyle Gonterwitz via KRnet 
> Date: 10/30/2014 12:47 PM (GMT-08:00)
> To: KRnet 
> Subject: KR> nvaero
>
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but the nvaero site is down, and the
> store is closed.
>
> I exchanged some emails with Steve about my order offline (from this forum)
> but have not resolved the order yet or responded to my last couple of
> emails.  Have any of you all that are Steve's friends on KRnet heard from
> him of late, or the fate of NVaero and potential future KR2 builders?
>
> --
> Kyle Gonterwitz
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Fw: video KR2

[Lawrence Bell]

Robert Gill's video and project are super impressive, the music added to
the impression.  I saw he put on a brand new Revmaster. After listening to
them and seeing their products at Gathering I think they have a real good
product. Another thing I noticed on Robert's airplane is he gave himself
more headroom, sounds more comfortable. Congratulations to Robert he
achieved his dream, I'll keep working on mine.
Larry Bell

On Mon, Oct 27, 2014 at 8:30 PM, Phillip Matheson via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> For those who wanted to know about small control inputs, check out Robert
> Gill?s KR2 flight, Australia
>
> Phil Matheson
>
>
> Subject: video
>
> Hi Phill, just added a video to youtube last night didn't up load as clear
> as it should have but it gives the idea and its about 20 min long.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AR-I0AA4fm0=em
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> borrow a dual plug VW head?

[Lawrence Bell]

Mark, there are different configurations. At this years Gathering I learned
that Revmaster has a new placing where the plug wires don't go through the
valve cover. I have an old Happi which goes through the valve cover. The
Revmaster heads are about $1000.00 a pair complete. It doesn't seem to me
to be worth machining an old head, but anyway, that configuration would be
the one to copy. I bought an Aero-Carb Aeroinjector and I don't consider it
airworthy without some modification, but the Revmaster carb had it
altogether.
My thoughts, Larry Bell

On Fri, Oct 24, 2014 at 7:05 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Given the problems I've had with my ignition system, I'm seriously
> considering a dual-plug setup.   If anybody has a junk VW dual port head
> that I can borrow to get the geometry of the second plug, I'd appreciate it
> if you could send it to me.  I'll gladly pay shipping, and if you want it
> back, will pay shipping back to you as well. Angle and location of the
> second plug is what I'm after.
>
> Thanks...
>
> --
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> http://www.n56ml.com
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> All gone.

[Lawrence Bell]

I'll second that, Jeff, as tough as you all are Collin was beyond amazing
although he had a $15,000.00 engine.
Larry Bell

On Tue, Sep 9, 2014 at 8:27 AM, Jeff Scott via KRnet 
wrote:

> Jack and Rob both deserve Brass Ball awards for tackling the mountains
> with their VW powered KRs.  It's easy for Joe and I to go high and fast,
> but those guys have long rough flights at lower altitudes, slower speeds,
> and rough air.  However, they also demonstrated just how capable a VW
> powered KR can be.
>
> Joe deserves an Iron Butt award for his trip from the east coast to Chino
> and back.  Of course Colin deserves one of each for his flight from the UK.
>
> You guys all impressed me.
>
> -Jeff Scott
> Los Alamos, NM
>
>
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 at 8:23 AM
> > From: "Steve G. via KRnet" 
> > To: KRnet 
> > Subject: KR> All gone.
> >
> > The last gathering KR just departed Chino. Jack Daugherty is headed back
> to Oklahoma after a little head work on his engine.
> >
> > Interestingly, jacks KR has an 1834cc VW. That's quite a trek with a
> smaller engine.
> >
> > Steve Glover
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> 2014 KR Gathering Fotos

[Lawrence Bell]

Good work, Mark. It was nice to meet you and thanks for all you did.
Larry Bell

On Sat, Sep 6, 2014 at 9:15 AM, Marc Baca via KRnet 
wrote:

> Hello All;
>
> In case you weren't able to get to the 2014 KR Gatherings ... here's a
> composite of photos for your enjoyment.
>
>
> https://vimeo.com/105432541
>
> Marc Baca
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>

KR> They're off!

[Lawrence Bell]

Good job, Steve, I enjoyed the experience!
Larry Bell

On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 at 9:35 AM, Steve G. via KRnet 
wrote:

> Everyone left this morning at first light before the tower open. What a
> fine bunch of KR's we had here this year. Jack Daugherty is the last to
> leave but he will stay a couple days due to an engine problem.  Collin
> Hales is headed to the Reno air races to continue his adventure
>
> I think we had a great time. The usual camaraderie and some educational
> workshops. Joe Horvaths from RevMaster Aviation gave a presentation on the
> new R2300 engine. If you have the Revflow carburetor they just came out
> with a stepped needle. It is said to even out the operation of the
> carburetor.
>
> Another one for the record books.
>
> Steve Glover
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>

KR> Weight and Balance

[Lawrence Bell]

Glad you made it OK, Sid. Hope you can relocate your wheels without too
much expense and find your pitch up problem.
Larry Bell


On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 12:26 PM, Sid Wood via KRnet 
wrote:

> Did the first flight on my KR-2 this morning after moving the engine
> 2-inches forward from the plans call-out.  (This was the fourth flight on
> this aircraft.)  Weight and balance measurements showed my take-off cg with
> me onboard and half fuel to be 12.6 inches from the stub wing datum.  Plans
> allowable range is 8 to 16 inches.  Seemed to have an adverse aft cg
> apparent at lift off.  Thought it may have been the pitch trim.  That was
> working, but not enough to trim out the stick pressure tending to pitch up.
> Flew around the airport at 3,000 feet for half an hour trying to explore
> the stall and handling characteristics.  Stall was about 40 Kts indicated;
> definitely had a pitch up problem at any speed.  So, did not do a full
> stall break.
> On landing wind was 4 Kts quartering from the left.  Had some turbulence
> at touchdown with 50 Kts indicated airspeed.  Instead of the nose pitching
> down with main gear touching as I had expected, the nose pitched up.  I ran
> out of forward elevator authority as the tail skid touched down hard.  That
> put the mains back on the asphalt hard.  Bounced airborne, then did an ugly
> three point landing.  I managed to keep it on the ground, but ran off the
> left side of the runway and stopped in the grass.  The engine had stopped
> some time after the first touch down.  Amazing how suddenly quiet it gets
> when nothing is moving.  The entire landing sequence from first touch to
> full stop took less than 5 seconds, it seemed.  The prop blade sticking
> straight up in front of me looked ok, so I restarted the engine and taxied
> back to the hangar.  I am thankful for that 9-1/2 inch prop ground
> clearance.
>
> Only apparent damage was a scuffed tail skid.
> Good news is the oil temperature never exceeded 162 degrees F.  The new
> Revmaster oil cooler system worked ok.
>
> Will definitely revisit the weight and balance, and get the main wheels to
> the correct 20 inch location.  Next flight will be in dead-calm wind
> conditions!
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>

KR> N891JF flights

[Lawrence Bell]

Wish I was a part of your group, but it will be great to meet everyone at
Chino.
Larry Bell


On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 8:11 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> NetHeads,
>
> Over the last few days and weeks, I've been doing trial runs in N891JF,
> getting ready for the trip to Chino.  I needed to calibrate the fuel
> consumption displayed by the MGL Explorer, calibrate the airspeed
> indicator, and make sure I could survive three hours in that awful sling
> seat without my back seizing up, among other things, so I flew up to
> Kentucky and back in about 2.5 hours.  The "mission" was a complete
> success, yielding a minor tweak to both totalizer and IAS factors.  One
> neat thing about electronic instruments is you can adjust out most
> inaccuracies caused by off-nominal sensors, peculiarities of static/pitot
> systems...that kind of thing.
>
> My main goal was to do a long-distance run at a steady-state fuel burn
> rate that would yield something in the neighborhood of 145 mph IAS, and
> quantify the fuel burn rate, engine RPM, and other engine parameters, so I
> could validate the flight planning.  I've discovered that 150 mph TAS is
> easy enough to maintain at 7500
> density altitude, while getting well under 4 gallons per hour, which is
> around 40 miles per gallon.  More totalizer calibration on the long trip to
> Chino will refine this some more though.  And since the Explorer shows true
> airspeed and density altitude all the time  (no need to estimate in my head
> anymore), I took it up to 7500' density altitude to do a wide open "cruise
> speed" test, which turned out to be 163 mph.  Not bad on a 2180 cc VW
> engine!
>
> I finally got around to installing the interior, and what a difference
> some padding on the sling seat and plywood seatback makes!  It's also nice
> to have pockets in the side panels to put headset batteries, sunglasses,
> pencils, etc.
>
> If all goes well, Joe Horton will drop in Wednesday afternoon, and we'll
> take off early Thursday for Las Alamos to meet up with Jeff Scott, Rob
> Schmitt, Terry Chizek, and hopefully Marty Roberts (flying a Luscombe) and
> Larry Flesner.  We'll fly to Chino together with Jeff Friday morning, and
> others are welcome to join us.  Keep your fingers crossed for good weather.
> If we were leaving tomorrow, weather would be quite favorable, I think.
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
> 
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Fw: Re: Main gear locations-CORRECTION

[Lawrence Bell]

OK, then there is just about 3" difference. I measured mine and it is 20"
aft of the leading edge which would make everyone the same after Sid
changes his.
Larry Bell


On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 9:39 AM, joe.kr2s.builder--- via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

>
>
> -- Forwarded Message ------
> From: Lawrence Bell via KRnet 
> To: Comcast , KRnet 
> Subject: Re: KR> Main gear locations
> Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 07:54:39 -0700
>
> Sid has his main axle distance 17" aft of the stub wing leading edge, Joe
> has his 7" aft of the <<<<<<<<<<<<<<
>
> CORRECTION: rear face of the foreward spar
>
>
>
>  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>of the main spar. Since the leading edge
> of the stub wing should 10.75" forward of the forward edge of the main spar
> they are essentially in the same position for a tri -gear. It seems to me
> the difference is other loading aft of the gear. According to Sid's w he
> is right in the middle of the range. I assume Joe's is the same since he
> flies in balance.  Going to the folks that like physics, something doesn't
> compute. Moving the wheels aft would fix the ground imbalance but would
> move the C.G. a little aft.
> My thoughts, Larry Bell
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 10:04 PM, Comcast via KRnet 
> wrote:
>
> > I've built my own gear and I measure out at 18"s back from the leading
> > edge to the axle center for the mains. 10"s from fire wall forward to
> axle
> > center.
> >
> > Dan Prichard
> > Portland Oregon
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > > On Aug 13, 2014, at 9:28 PM, Paul Visk via KRnet  >
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I believe that Sid was going to but his mains at 20" behind the leading
> > edge.
> > >
> > >
> > > Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.
> > >
> > >  Original message From:
> > "joe.kr2s.builder--- via KRnet" 
> > Date:08/13/2014  9:40 PM  (GMT-06:00) To:
> > smwood at md.metrocast.net Cc: krnet at list.krnet.org
> > Subject: KR> Main gear locations 
> > > Sid,I just happen to have measured my locations for mains and
> nose
> > wheel the other night to compare to the new project. N357CJ main axle
> > center line is 7" behind the main spar and the nose wheel axle is 10" in
> > front of the firewall. I agree that the actual dimension is not in the
> > instructions but this is where it ends up if  all the landing gear parts
> > that come with the Deihl kit are used in the instructed configuration. I
> > checked it against the project that I am working on and it is nearly
> > identical even thought the fuselages are very different. I know that
> yours
> > is a KR2 but the location relative to the spar is always going to be the
> > same. I don't remember that you mentioned the location relative to the
> spar
> > but only was it related to the weight and balance stations.Joe Horton
> > >
> > > 
> > > NetZero now offers 4G mobile broadband. Sign up now.
> > > http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT1
> > > ___
> > > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> > change options
> > > ___
> > > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> > change options
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> change
> > options
> >
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 

KR> Main gear locations

[Lawrence Bell]

Sid has his main axle distance 17" aft of the stub wing leading edge, Joe
has his 7" aft of the forward face of the main spar. Since the leading edge
of the stub wing should 10.75" forward of the forward edge of the main spar
they are essentially in the same position for a tri -gear. It seems to me
the difference is other loading aft of the gear. According to Sid's w he
is right in the middle of the range. I assume Joe's is the same since he
flies in balance.  Going to the folks that like physics, something doesn't
compute. Moving the wheels aft would fix the ground imbalance but would
move the C.G. a little aft.
My thoughts, Larry Bell


On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 10:04 PM, Comcast via KRnet 
wrote:

> I've built my own gear and I measure out at 18"s back from the leading
> edge to the axle center for the mains. 10"s from fire wall forward to axle
> center.
>
> Dan Prichard
> Portland Oregon
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Aug 13, 2014, at 9:28 PM, Paul Visk via KRnet 
> wrote:
> >
> > I believe that Sid was going to but his mains at 20" behind the leading
> edge.
> >
> >
> > Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.
> >
> >  Original message From:
> "joe.kr2s.builder--- via KRnet" 
> Date:08/13/2014  9:40 PM  (GMT-06:00) To:
> smwood at md.metrocast.net Cc: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Subject: KR> Main gear locations 
> > Sid,I just happen to have measured my locations for mains and nose
> wheel the other night to compare to the new project. N357CJ main axle
> center line is 7" behind the main spar and the nose wheel axle is 10" in
> front of the firewall. I agree that the actual dimension is not in the
> instructions but this is where it ends up if  all the landing gear parts
> that come with the Deihl kit are used in the instructed configuration. I
> checked it against the project that I am working on and it is nearly
> identical even thought the fuselages are very different. I know that yours
> is a KR2 but the location relative to the spar is always going to be the
> same. I don't remember that you mentioned the location relative to the spar
> but only was it related to the weight and balance stations.Joe Horton
> >
> > 
> > NetZero now offers 4G mobile broadband. Sign up now.
> > http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT1
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> change options
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> change options
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> info on KR-2

[Lawrence Bell]

The engine alone is worth way more than that. I don't know what a cowl tank
is but that can all be rebuilt. The ease of re configuring the gear depends
on the existing gear. If you want something that you can do "without much
trouble" get a new airplane.
Larry Bell


On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Vance Simons via KRnet  wrote:

> Fellas, I have been looking at a KR-2 for sale in my area. It was completed
> in 1984. It has an extensive builder log with photos.  It has a Lyc O-145
> with around 35 hours SMOH. It is the 75 hp version. Its been stored in a
> hangar since the late 80's. Very nice panel. The cowl tank is shot and im
> going to assume so are the wing tanks. The wing walk area is soft. The
> airframe overall is in not to bad of shape with some minor hangar rash. I
> can pick it up for $3500. Thoughts??
>
> Can the fuel tanks be fixed on these without much trouble? Could it be made
> into a tri-gear?
>
> Thanks
> Vance
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> foam...

[Lawrence Bell]

Larry Bell,
Gary, I am using the Styrofoam type insulation foam from Home Depot.
The main reason is availability and cost. There are some other factors. You
cannot hotwire the urethane. In a lot of situations hotwire is a lot
cleaner and easier. I have seen the urethane foam basically disintegrated
on an older plane, the Styrofoam holds up better. You can form urethane
easier with cutting tools but it makes a mess and you can damage it very
easily. I made a hotwire cutting saw for making straight and compound
pieces. It works just like a band saw except it is a hotwire. Hotwire takes
practice but works slick when you get used to it. I make all my parts with
wood frames and use them as hotwire guides.  Burt Rutan uses both on the
Very Easy and details all things composite in a publication I think you can
get at Aircraft Spruce. I refer to that publication "Moldless Composite
Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft Construction"  all the time. You would need
some urethane, as an example the center two ribs on the wings are formed by
using the plywood inner and outer ribs as a guide and forming them out of
urethane. I am going to do that and then make them from plywood and go back
to hotwire.
 Hope this helps, Larry Bell


On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dan Prichard via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Here in Oregon the stuff is hard to get. Shipping from aircraft spruce is
> way to high. I got ahold of some walk in cooler panels and used the foam
> when molding the upper deck stuff. The foil backed foam from Home Depot is
> poly ISOcyanurate. It sands real well and is 2 lbs density. The surface
> under the foil is a bit grooved and rutted but just keep that in mind when
> selecting pieces. The biggest advantage is cost. 2" stock is around $35 for
> a 4 x 8 sheet. A little extra work but for me it works great.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 18, 2014, at 7:12 AM, Pat and Robin Russo via KRnet <
> krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:
> >
> > Your local lumberyard may have urethane foam sold as insulation. It
> comes backed with tin foil. Simply peel off the backing. I have used this
> for years with successI think!! I never keep a plane long enough to see
> what the long term effects might be. I have also used the blue board
> insulation with success on many projects.
> > Pat Russo
> >
> > -Original Message- From: jon kimmel via KRnet
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 9:12 AM
> > To: KRnet ; GaryH
> > Subject: Re: KR> foam...
> >
> > Dow sold trymer 2000 to itw several years ago...if you go to this website
> > and follow the links for where to get it you will get distributors in
> your
> > area...i drove to dallas for mine.
> >
> > http://www.itwinsulation.com/trymer/prod/t2000xp.htm
> >
> > https://sites.google.com/site/mykr2stretch/
> > https://sites.google.com/site/mykr2stretch/parts-for-sale
> >> On Jun 17, 2014 9:41 PM, "GaryH via KRnet" 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Okay.  Who out there has a good supplier for urethane foam sheets as
> per KR
> >> plans, and inexpensive.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Gary
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Soli Deo Gloria
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
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KR> KRElevator weights advise

[Lawrence Bell via KRnet]

Sid,
What is the objective, to center the elevator with no stick input? Wouldn't
springs do the job or would that make control too stiff?
Larry Bell


On Tue, May 20, 2014 at 10:27 AM, smwood via KRnet wrote:

> I used 2.6 pounds on a 16 inch arm hinged on a bell crank 14 inches
> forward of the elevator hinge.  Connection between the elevator bell crank
> and the balance counter weight bell crank is by a push rod and rod ends.
>  All linkage and counter weight are in the fuselage.  This push rod is also
> part of the elevator linkage to the stick.  Elevator and aileron linkage is
> all pushrods.
>
> Sid Wood
> smwood at md.metrocast.net
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>>
>> --
>> With the horns just foam will they be strong enough to support the
>> weight? or should I just add the weight off the push rod like Mark did. How
>> much weight are we talking about?? I'm using the new? tail.?
>>
>> I built the wider tail on N3151K and ?need ~ 4.5 pounds to statically
>> balance my elevator without primer and paint. 2.5 pounds on each horn right
>> now .Probably a little more when painted..
>>
>> Joe Cruz
>> cruzj12 at frontiernet.net
>> KR1.5 ? ? N3151K
>> KR2S ? builder...fiber glassing main wing
>> On Monday, May 5, 2014 9:15 AM, "ppaulvsk at aol.com via KRnet" <
>> krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I can't decide where to put my elevator counter weights. I'm adding three
>> inche foam horns to the elevator and covering? the hole thing? with carbon
>> fiber.? With the horns just foam will they be strong enough to support the
>> weight? or should I just add the weight off the push rod like Mark did. How
>> much weight are we talking about?? I'm using the new? tail.?
>>
>> Paul Visk
>> Belleville Il
>> 618-406-4705
>>
>>
>>>
>
>
> ___
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>

KR> drag?

[Lawrence Bell via KRnet]

Amen, Larry Flesner.
Larry bell


On Sun, May 11, 2014 at 7:43 PM, via KRnet  wrote:

>
>
> Doran,
>
> I'm sorry you felt threatened or challenged by our rather frank answers to
> a question asked on the net.  Our response was based on thousands of hours
> flight time in KR's. While your statement "I have flown several low drag /
> clean aircraft without flaps and never had any unnerving problems with
> landing" may be true,  it does not appropriately answer the question of
> whether or not flaps or speed brakes are necessary / desirable on a KR.
>  While you may have experience in many different types, I suspect your
> answer was not based on flight time in a KR.  The consensus, based on
> experience, was that every builder should give them serious consideration.
>  We "kids" play in a sport where mistakes can be fatal.  We're not here to
> make people feel good but to pass on knowledge based on experience.  Each
> reader can assign a value to each post and use or disregard that knowledge
> as they see fit.
>
> Mark Langford is a very accomplished engineer and Mr. Dow's comments were
> totally out of line.  Mark is not only a valued contributor to the net but
> one of the primary reasons the net exists.   Given his schedule, I'm amazed
> he takes the time to share his considerable  knowledge with other builders.
>  Mr. Dow's statement that his post was  "well intentioned as I have nothing
> to gain or lose from this" is wrong based on it's results.  It tends to
> stifle builders from asking questions they might think are "stupid" or that
> they will be ridiculed for asking.  There are many builds with many
> questions yet to ask.  I hope they don't feel insulted by the answer they
> get that does not conform to their thinking.
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> Shop equipment - air compressors

[Lawrence Bell via KRnet]

Sounds like my kind of soulution, Sid. Without Harbor Freight I doubt I
would have a project.
Larry Bell


On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 5:50 AM, via KRnet  wrote:

>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, hope your weight and balance is also good.


On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here are some photos of my new cowl at final fit check today before
> painting.
> Lower cowl has a closure fairing for the nose gear strut and a gascolator
> access door.  Upper cowl has an oil service access door.
> Theoretically, could fly now, but will go for some paint and decals.
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/1741855090535aecddd270f.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/150415788535aecddd4e18.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>

KR> Ram air fuel venting

[Lawrence Bell]

Hey Oscar, I like that physics! You guys have answered my questions on ram
air for my header tank. I bought a fiberglass tank with ram air in the cap
and 1/4 inch fitting near the top. I changed the 1/4 inch to 3/8ths got rid
of the ram in the cap and am running 3/8 tub to a collator, and then a 1/4
to an Aerocarb which only had a 1/4 inch inlet. Just as an aside, the tank
was contaminated with some kind of tar and I had to open it up and clean
it. This is probably not interesting, but my 2 bits. The chatter on air
locks was good too and I am going to try to get all my tubes straight.
Larry Bell


On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 10:06 PM, Oscar Zuniga  wrote:

> Joe wrote-
> >I have no data to compare as it was built like this from the get go
> >but I do know that my fuel pressure from the header tank (gravity feed)
> >has never been below 8/10 of a pound even though mathematically
> >that should be impossible given the height of the tank at low fuel level
> >above the pressure sensor.
>
> Joe; how did you figure the math?  With, or without, ram air pressure?  To
> get 0.8 psi by gravity head alone, the difference in elevation between the
> static fuel level in the header tank and the place where you measure fuel
> pressure (presumed to be the inlet to the float bowl) would need to be a
> little over 22" depending on what fuel you're running and its specific
> gravity.  That's a law of physics that can't be altered unless you are on
> another planet where the force of gravity is different, or if you are
> somewhere near Groom Lake in Area 51, and all bets are off.  However, if
> you were referring to your static head *plus* ram air pressure at cruise,
> it's not a stretch because (example): at 124 MPH, the stagnation (ram)
> pressure of air at STP is about 0.3 psig, so your gravity head of another
> 0.5 psig would be an elevation difference of a little less than 14" between
> static fuel level in the header tank and the inlet to the float bowl.
>  Probably not unrealistic for your setup.
>
> Whatever the case, you've seen 0.8 psi at the carb with your setup, and
> there is no arguing with that.  Good info.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> Fiberglass rookie

[Lawrence Bell]

Jeff,
 You're absolutely right, I got it backwards. I can's believe after
using it all this time I can't keep the terms straight.
 Thanks, Larry Bell


On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Mark Langford  wrote:

> And they've got the smell backwards as well.  Polyester fumes are pretty
> nasty, whereas epoxies are far less "odiferous" ...
>
> Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
> ML at N56ML.com
> www.N56ML.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
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> options
>

KR> Fiberglass rookie

[Lawrence Bell]

Hi Doran,
 Been there done that. Epoxy resin will eat up polystyrene foam. As
John succinctly  put it polyester resin won't and by the way doesn't gag
you with the smell. One other little thing I learned, polyester primer will
eat into it and produce gas bubbles, not good for the part. Use a 100%
acrylic primer after you have the surface smooth using polyester primer
mixed with micro to a peanut butter consistency you can mix a little
alcohol for spread ability . There is a lot to it, I have yet to get my
fiberglass parts to the finish I want.
Larry Bell


On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 2:00 AM, John Martindale <
john_martindale at bigpond.com> wrote:

> Hi Doran.not using polyester resin are you :-)
>
> John Martindale
> 29 Jane Circuit
> Toormina NSW 2452
> Australia
>
> ph:61 2 6658 4767
> m:0403 432179
> email:john_martindale at bigpond.com
> web site: http://john-martindale-kr2.zxq.net
>
> -Original Message-
> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Doran
> Jaffas
> Sent: Thursday, 27 February 2014 6:51 PM
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Subject: KR> Fiberglass rookie
>
>Hello folks,
>  Fessing up about my snip
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> Cowl construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, Larry Bell


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 5:19 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here is a picture of the top and bottom cowl for fit check on the
> firewall. The old air duct for left cylinder bank cooling is peaking
> through the left air intake opening.  Will make an adapter for the front
> end and reuse the fiberglass engine cooling ducts.
>
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/50792709452f2dd354a5ef.jpg
>
> Still have to cut an oil service door for preflight access and bond
> captive stop nuts.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, Larry Bell


On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 5:33 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here are two pictures showing removal of the Styrofoam plug from the cowl
> shell using a Dremel oscillatory tool with a scraper blade.
> Amazing how the foam increases in volume as chip and chunks.
>
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/76336265152d5df7073dfa.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/144869089252d5df7076508.jpg
>
> Next after some more prep, will put another layer of glass inside the
> shell and 4 layers to support the edges and the fastening hardware.  Then
> on to construction for the cooling ducts.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
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>

KR> Flying Video

[Lawrence Bell]

That looks real good and quite an inspiration. When is the gathering? Larry
Bell


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 8:01 PM, Robert7721  wrote:

> Looking good Marc!
>
> On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:45 PM, Marc Baca  wrote:
>
> > KR folks;
> >
> > I'm still learning to fly my KR here at Chino Airport in California.  I
> hope to see many of you here at the coming KR Gathering.  Lately I've been
> working on finalizing some adjustments, repairs and minor modifications. I
> thought I'd share a flight video taken on my inexpensive dash cam. See link
> below.
> >
> > https://vimeo.com/82817972
> >
> > Thanks for all the ideas.
> >
> > Marc Baca
> > N13UG (Larry Buck KR-2)
> > N31SB  (Sam Bailey KR-1)
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
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>
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>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Epoxy reducer sounds good, Sid. Thanks, Larry


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 1:43 PM, smwood  wrote:

> Larry,
> Last week there was a mention on the KRnet of using alcohol to thin micro
> slurry.  I have never done that; did not occur to me.  However, with that
> thought in mind, I tried using Epoxy Reducer.  I just happened to have some
> left over from trying to get the Smooth Prime to work.  While we are here:
> Smooth Prime may work for fabric finishing, but it is expensive and I
> finally had to abandon that for micro slurry and get on with finishing my
> KR-2.
> Epoxy Reducer E-500 is produced by Poly Fiber and available from Aircraft
> Spruce.  It contains Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), and Methyl
> Isobutyl Ketone (MIK).  The label is not kidding when it says to have
> ventilation. Lots of fumes here.
> To make the micro slurry, I mixed the West System resin and 206 hardener,
> then added micro, mixed and added more micro until the ball was like bread
> dough.  I could pick the whole ball up out of the cup with the stirring
> stick.  Then I added a few drops of Epoxy Reducer, mixed that, added a few
> more drops and mixed.  (Here is where a West System pump in the Reducer
> gallon can really comes in handy.)  Kept adding a few drops at a time until
> the mixture was like warm cake icing out of a can.  Spreads on great.  Need
> lots of ventilation due to the Toluene, MEK and MIK in the Reducer.
> After 24 hour cure at 68 degrees F, the micro with Epoxy Reducer sands
> very easily.
> Some of the cowl was done with just micro and epoxy; the extra epoxy in
> the mix makes for a much more difficult time for sanding.  The extra epoxy
> tends to gum up and clog the sandpaper, especially with a power sander.
>
> Bottom line: Highly recommend getting all the micro balloons in the epoxy
> that it can hold; then getting the ball to flow with Epoxy Reducer.  Thin
> the slurry to your spreading comfort level.  The Epoxy Reducer evaporates
> quickly and completely leaving the epoxy intact.  Spread the slurry
> quickly. On top, you can pour it on and let gravity level it.  On sides and
> bottom, gravity is not your friend; so you need a thicker slurry with less
> Reducer. A rotisserie would be handy for this application.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>  --
>> Sid, do you use alcohol in your micro slurry? Does that sand fairly
>> easily?
>> Thanks, Larry Bell
>>
>>>
>>>  
>
>
>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>>>
>>> Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass
>>> for this project.  Thank you Bernie.
>>>
>>> Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting.
>>>
>>> Sid Wood
>>> >>
>>>
>>
>
>
> ___
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>

KR> KR2S LSA

[Lawrence Bell]

Tony, the manufacturer is you. The KR-2 is not a kit and does not have kit
certification. Each build is different and stands on its own when you
certify it. If you claim it meets LSA requirements you can certify it LSA.
The plans call for a retract gear making it ineligible but most of us have
fixed gear. As I mentioned to William, if you follow a build that resulted
in stats that meet LSA as indicated on the KR-2 performance chart I think
you could be comfortable claiming it will meet the specs. After you certify
it regular you can't change to LSA.
Larry Bell


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 3:30 PM, Tony King  wrote:

> It's one thing to make a KR meet the LSA weight and performance specs.  As
> I understand it, it's quite another to make it an actual LSA since that
> requires the manufacturer to certify (and demonstrate I believe) that it
> meets certain engineering standards - usually ASTM.
>
> Is this thread about the former or the latter?  If the former, why would
> you want to limit the performance?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tony
> ___
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>

KR> KR2S LSA

[Lawrence Bell]

You're absolutely right, Ken. My bad for taking the figures out of my head.
Larry


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 2:30 PM, Kenneth B. Jones wrote:

> Just a slight correction to the numbers.  The LSA speed and weight numbers
> are:
> Maximum gross takeoff weight?1,320 lbs, or 1,430 lbs for seaplanes.
> Maximum stall speed?51 mph (45 knots) CAS
> Maximum speed in level flight with maximum continuous power (Vh)?138 mph
> (120 knots) CAS
> There are other restrictions such as fixed pitch fixed gear (for land
> planes), etc., too.
>
> Ken Jones
> KHAO
>
>
> On Dec 16, 2013, at 4:39 PM, Lawrence Bell wrote:
>
> > William, the LSA requirements have to be met when you register. Most KR
> > builders want performance which will not be LSA. If you look at the
> > performance chart of KR-2's some meet the requirement but most don't.
> Flaps
> > do not help because the stall requirement is without flaps, as in what if
> > they don't work. The max speed is 152 knots and stall is under 50 without
> > augmentation. I would assume the right prop would limit your speed but
> you
> > need low weight and high wing area to get stall speed.
> >Larry Bell
> >
> >
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> KR2S LSA

[Lawrence Bell]

William, the LSA requirements have to be met when you register. Most KR
builders want performance which will not be LSA. If you look at the
performance chart of KR-2's some meet the requirement but most don't. Flaps
do not help because the stall requirement is without flaps, as in what if
they don't work. The max speed is 152 knots and stall is under 50 without
augmentation. I would assume the right prop would limit your speed but you
need low weight and high wing area to get stall speed.
Larry Bell


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 9:50 AM, William Shambrook
wrote:

> I have a set of plans dated June 1995 with the KR2S updates. Have there
> been a number of updates and if so how would I get them?  I note that there
> is a company selling KR2S plan sets.  Would it be better to just purchase a
> new set?
>
> I have noted that the question has come up whether with some modification
> the KR2S could meet the stall and cruise speed requirements to meet the
> sport pilot criteria. Is this doable or would it require too many
> modifications? In reading the krnet entries it appears that by including
> flaps you can get the stall and landing speed down somewhat but is it
> adequate?
>
> In looking at the KRSuper2 site it claims, I believe, that the aircraft can
> be built to meet the sport pilot requirements.  Do you know if that is the
> case?
>
> Thanks
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> Swing-over to front hinged Canopy Conversion

[Lawrence Bell]

It is one of the pictures you have in the set for your exhaust. Glad to
hear that was just an earlier picture. Otherwise you're looking good!


On Fri, Nov 1, 2013 at 12:05 PM, John Bouyea  wrote:

> Larry,
> Thanks for looking it over! Are you looking at the very early photos,
> before
> I installed the Fibrefrax and metal? I know there are some of those
> pictures
> posted on my site...
>
> John Bouyea/ N5391M/ KR2/ Hillsboro, OR
>
> -Original Message-
> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Lawrence
> Bell
> Sent: Friday, November 01, 2013 9:05 AM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Swing-over to front hinged Canopy Conversion
>
> John, I took a look at your engine pictures which look good. I noticed you
> have a major firewall problem. You have to have stainless in front of the
> wood. An engine fire would get you faster than you would think and even the
> heat from the engine could be enough to light it off. The plans call for
> .040 asbestos and .005 stainless. You are spending a lot of money and have
> a
> nice looking airplane, be safe.
> Larry Bell
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 31, 2013 at 5:18 PM, John Bouyea  wrote:
>
> > Mark Langford designed a conversion for Jim's plane he is fixing up.
> > My side-mount hinges were shot so I thought I'd follow along. Indeed,
> > it was easier than I originally thought. I documented what I saw
> > through the process as a supplement to what Mark taught us all on the
> first go-round.
> > Anyhow, here's my take on the work. Thank you is due to Mark for
> > solving my problem!
> >
> > John Bouyea
> >
> > N5391M/ KR2/ Hillsboro, OR
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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KR> Swing-over to front hinged Canopy Conversion

[Lawrence Bell]

John, I took a look at your engine pictures which look good. I noticed you
have a major firewall problem. You have to have stainless in front of the
wood. An engine fire would get you faster than you would think and even the
heat from the engine could be enough to light it off. The plans call for
.040 asbestos and .005 stainless. You are spending a lot of money and have
a nice looking airplane, be safe.
Larry Bell


On Thu, Oct 31, 2013 at 5:18 PM, John Bouyea  wrote:

> Mark Langford designed a conversion for Jim's plane he is fixing up. My
> side-mount hinges were shot so I thought I'd follow along. Indeed, it was
> easier than I originally thought. I documented what I saw through the
> process as a supplement to what Mark taught us all on the first go-round.
> Anyhow, here's my take on the work. Thank you is due to Mark for solving my
> problem!
>
> John Bouyea
>
> N5391M/ KR2/ Hillsboro, OR
>
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KR> West Coast KR Gathering 2014 ??

[Lawrence Bell]

Count me in, Larry Bell, San Diego


On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 10:43 AM, Marc Baca  wrote:

> I live in Los Angeles.
>
> Suppose we endeavored to host a gathering out here.  How many of you would
> consider coming to Los Angeles for a KR convention?
>
> Just wondering .. (for now).
>
> Marc Baca
> Chino, CA
>
>
>
>
> 
>  From: Oscar Zuniga 
> To: "krnet at list.krnet.org" 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 2, 2013 10:01 AM
> Subject: KR> KR Gathering 2014
>
>
> So... I thought at one point Steve Glover from NVAero had talked about
> hosting the Gathering, but over here on the West coast?  It is the home of
> the KR, after all.
>
>
>
> Oscar Zuniga
>
> Medford, OR
>
>
>
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KR> wing spars

[Lawrence Bell]

Virgil, they touch the web on the forward side, page 20 of plans.

Larry Bell


On Sat, May 25, 2013 at 12:02 PM, GaryH  wrote:

> On my dated plans, the Center Section Aft Spar has ? x ? vertical blocks
> alternating with ? x 1-1/8.  Do the ? x ? blocks go on forward side or aft
> side of spar?
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>

KR> First Flight Issues - Elevator Trim

[Lawrence Bell]

Thanks, Sid, good heads up for the rest of us. I like your throttle setup,
I'm going to try to copy it, Larry Bell

On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 5:57 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> On the first flight, 3/23/13, moments after lift off, the elevator trim
> jumped to Full Nose Up.  Trim control in the cockpit was non-responsive.  I
> had to hold firm forward pressure on the stick to maintain level flight
> with the stick position about neutral.  The bounced landing bent the nose
> strut.
> Investigation after the flight revealed the epoxy seal on the sheath of
> the Nyrod trim tab rod had broken.  The Nyrod center rod and the sheath
> were not damaged.  The break is at the entrance to the horizontal
> stabilizer leading edge inside the fuselage.  This allowed the sheath to
> move resulting in the trim tab moving to the Full Nose Up position.  The
> fix is to secure the Nyrod sheath.  This is the same practical installation
> requirements for any Bowden cable.
> NV aero is shipping a new nose strut.
> Here are some pictures from my website showing the Trim Control in the
> cockpit at Full Nose Down, the Elevator Trim Tab at Full Nose Up, and the
> broken Nyrod sheath anchor area:
>
> http://websites.expercraft.**com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_**
> entry_id=71577
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
> __**_
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>

KR> voltage regulator/rectifier

[Lawrence Bell]

I found the information on this at
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

help full although I have to figure out my wires to see if my existing
regulator/rectifier will work. The Shindengen seems like a solution to heat
as well as idle charging.

Larry Bell