KR> Wanting Plans KR2S

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

Dan Freeman wrote ...If Rand Robbinson no longer respondes to orders to 
purchase plans or parts as some are suggesting..., 



I spoke with Jeannette Rand at the gathering regarding potential
customers not being able to get in touch with her.  She said, "I put
four or five sets of plans in the mail every week.  Most of them are for
KR-1.  I sell more of these now than the KR-2S."  I asked about
returning telephone calls.  She said, "I cannot afford the long distance
telephone bills with this kind of business.  I have a fax for orders."
During our conversation standing out on the ramp, she asked me how I got
my KR-2 plans.  I said, "I sent you a letter with my check and a few
weeks later the postman delivered my plans."  "There, she said, now how
hard was that?"



Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA

KR> VW Propeller

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

I just received my 52 x 52 propeller from Ed Sterba for my VW 2180.  It
weighs 4.495 pounds.  Cost was $207.50 deposit and $207.50 on delivery
includes shipping.  Personal checks for payments work just fine.

I cannot bolt it on until I hang the engine and cannot hang the engine
until I finish painting.

Now I know why some fly it before they paint it.



Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA

KR> UV SmoothPrime

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

I got this guest book message on my website
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/  on 24 September 2006:



Friendly Advice has signed your ExperCraft guest book
with the following note:
Great website.  This is a huge state, but I would humbly suggest
removing all of your Smoothprime at this time.  Myself (and many/all
others) who have used this product have had it peel off in less than a
few years (mine in less than 1 year).  Please search around the net to
confirm this information.  It would be better (easier) for you to do
this now than after your project is complete.  I like Jeff and really
wish the product had worked, but instead I have a plane with paint
peeling off in sheets all over the place.  I don't have the time to
refinish it now, so I'm stuck with a gawd aweful paintjob in need of a
few hundred hours work.  Jeff has provided replacement products to some
customers at no cost, I haven't barked at him yet (waiting for time to
repaint, but I've taken pictures from day #1).



Anyone know anything about UV SmoothPrime failure?

Sid Wood

KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA

KR> UV SmoothPrime

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

Guest book message on my website http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/
on 24 September 2006:



...Anyone know anything about UV SmoothPrime failure?



Here is the reply from PolyFiber:

Subject: Re: PolyFiber Tech Request



Sid,

 We have had sporadic adhesion problems with Top Gloss waterborne
topcoat paint when applied directly over Smooth Prime or UV Smooth
Prime.   These problems however, have not been consistent; there are
aircraft with this system now years old with no problems.   UV Smooth
Prime has never had an adhesion problem, in fact, it is still used
widely by builders today, however we suggest they overcoat Smooth Prime
with epoxy primer and polyurethane paint.

 Jon



Jon Goldenbaum is the president of PolyFiber.  They have discontinued
Top Gloss.

My conclusion is: My paint job on my KR-2 is good to go.

Sid Wood

KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA

KR> elevator mass balance

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

Here is my elevator mass balance arrangement
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_entry_id=7739
Click on the pics for larger download.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> jacking a KR

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

I took Tony Bengalis advice as suggested in his Aircraft Construction
book.  I built in jacking hard points bolted to the inner WAF of the
stub wing.
The hard point is a permanent part of the stub wing and faired smooth
with the lower wing surface.  Each hard point has a 10-32 stop nut
riveted inside to attach the jack pad, similar to a Navion. 
Ever wonder why real aircraft jacks have a concave head at the top of
the ram?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> Flaps

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

My KR-2 has 6061 aluminum flanges for the flap bellcranks.  I found them in the 
local True Value Hardware store.
I drilled a 3/16-inch hole through the flange and ¾-inch aluminum tube to bolt 
them in place.

Sid Wood
KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

That is pretty much what I have in mind, except I would like to find (or 
make) an aluminum flange to replace the clamp collars, then glue AND rivet 
that flange to both the torque tube and the bellcranks. The tube stops 
could be made the same way.

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France

KR> Flaps

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

The flanges were intended to be the base plate for a hand rail
constructed with aluminum tubes.  There were 4 holes in the flat part to
bolt to the floor. A single set screw
secured the aluminum tube; I drilled that out and through the tube and
fastened with an AN3 bolt and lock nut.  The arm for the bell crank is
bolted across the flat of the flange with (2) AN3 bolts. 
Hardware stores also have similar flanges in galvanized steel threaded
for steel water pipe.  These are massive compared to the aluminum
flanges.
Sid Wood
KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

What use were they sold for, exactly? (what application)
Serge


My KR-2 has 6061 aluminum flanges for the flap bell cranks.  I found
them 
in the local True Value Hardware store.
Sid Wood

That is pretty much what I have in mind, except I would like to find (or

make) an aluminum flange to replace the clamp collars, then glue AND
rivet 
that flange to both the torque tube and the bell cranks. The tube stops 
could be made the same way.

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France

KR> Latex Paint

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

In a previous post I complained about clogging silicon-carbide sandpaper
with latex paint.  KRnet advice was to wet sand.  
I used a recycled Windex spray bottle to mist on the water and
hand-sanded away with 1000 grit.  Works great!  Wiped off the milky
residue with a paper shop towel.  I used one third of one sheet of
Wetordry paper for the entire fuselage and tail group.  I can see the
reflected image of the fluorescent shop lights now.  Another coat of
exterior latex paint and 1500 grit wet sanding plus buffing just might
complete the paint job.  Hope to see my reflection soon.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA  

KR> Retractable no more

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

Lee,
My complete KR-2 retract gear less wheels is available for $250 plus
shipping.
It is ready to bolt to your spar.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com


Do you want to sell your old gear???

Lee Van Dyke

KR> Turtle Deck

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

My turtle deck is a RR factory made part.  I added a roll bar made from ¼ inch 
a/c plywood, two layers for ½ inch thick by 2-1/2 inch wide, glassed 2 BID to 
the inside at the leading edge.  
The TD is removable and attached with 10-32 ss screws.  Nut plates are attached 
to the fuselage top 5/8 spruce.
TD total weight ready for paint is 8.6 pounds.  


Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

"turtle deck from wood will weigh about 7 lbs, my question is, how does
this compare weight wise to a composite structure?"

I weighed mine last night and it came out to 10 lbs. Mine is larger than
most as I am 6'5" and have included head room on top of that. It is 37"
W x 20" T and tapers to 13" W x 8" T with a total length of 57". I also
incorporated half of my roll over structure into the front bow of the TD
to avoid making my canopy mechanism do to much work. I incorporated one
stiffening rib that runs down the center on the inside that is 1" x 3".
I think you will find the main advantage of building the TD from glass
is its ability to form compound shapes. My TD wouldn't "look" right if
it went straight from the aft edge of my canopy to the tail so there is
a slight bow at the top before it straightens out.

Stephen Teate
Paradise, Texas

KR> Latex Paint

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

Replies to my earlier post indicated that Latex paint would either work fine, 
not hold up, crack from vibration, could/could not be polished shiny or would 
gum up trying to sand.
I found some good news on sanding.  I know; sanding and good news don't really 
go together in the same sentence. 
I have 3 coats of Latex house paint primer sprayed on my fuselage.  
I had used 400 grit silicon carbide wet/dry sand paper (used dry) because that 
was the only type 400 grit I could find at the hardware stores. 
The silicon carbide would gum-up very quickly. I went through 3 packs as I 
struggled to sand about 1/2 the fuselage over 9 hours. 
The label on the silicon carbide sand paper says the surface is coated with 
resin. My theory is the resin "grabs" the latex paint dust and sticks it 
together for the gum-up. 
Every once in a while I would get a black streak on the paint. I suppose this 
came from the sandpaper; it is black also. Then I would have to sand more to 
get the black streak off.
All out of 400 grit, I went back to Lowes and found 400 grit aluminum oxide. 
Wow! What a difference! The aluminum oxide just makes lots of white powder 
dust. The paper appears to get clogged, but one swipe with the dust brush and 
down the vacuum maw it goes. 
I sanded the remaining half of the fuselage with one sheet of aluminum oxide in 
about 1 hour by hand.

Aluminum Oxide sandpaper is highly recommended for Latex paint sanding.
Your results may vary...

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> Stick Forces

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

...what can be done 
to raise the stick forces, mainly the elevator, to make it less prone to 
PIO. Also, something like a exponential command would also work.

1.  You could balance the elevator.  The extra mass may slow down jerking 
around for PIO.  Helps with flutter control also.
2.  Move the elevator cables closer together on the stick and/or move the 
cables on the elevator bell crank further apart.  That means more stick 
movement for less elevator movement.  Might not be able to get full elevator 
travel with this change.
3.  Put some centering springs in the elevator circuit.  Might get some 
oscillation or flutter in rough air.
4.  Make the Trim Tab into an anti-servo tab so that the tab moves in the 
direction of the elevator movement.  That will tend to center the elevator into 
the air stream.  The effect will be exponential for stick forces.  Take care 
with this change; you could get some bad flutter if the servo is set to 
aggressive.  And even if the elevator is mass balanced.
5.  Be certain the CG is towards the forward end of range.  Aft CG can make 
the aircraft non-controllable in pitch.
6.  Reprogram the flight control computer between the headset.  Skill goes 
a long way here.  A smooth, easy touch is required.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> WAF Bolt Sheer Load

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

I have built my Spars exactly as called out in the KR-2 plans using RR 
furnished parts.  The wings are ready for finishing and painting.
I am betting my life that the WAFs as installed will function long and well.
I am trying to determine exactly how the WAFs function in relationship to the 
lumber and the AN3 and AN6 bolts.  
I apologize for my lengthy eighth grade math in my first post.  I still don't 
know if I got that right.
I keep getting contradictory opinions, explanations, flames, etc.  Bottom line: 
I still don't know what goes on. 

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> WAF Bolt Sheer Load

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

The recent series of posts concerning Powder Coating for Wing Attach Fittings 
(WAF) have assumed that the 3/16 bolts have to fit snug in the steel WAF and 
the Spruce spars since the bolts are stressed in sheer.  I read an explanation 
some years ago in the KR newsletters that the WAF are clamped to the spars and 
generate their holding action by friction.  The 3/16 attach bolts are stressed 
primarily in tension not in sheer.
Another newsletter article reported on KR-2 main spar testing.  The ultimate 
breaking force on the spar was 21g.  (I don't know how hard folks fly their 
KRs, but 6g would be much more than enough to break parts of me.)  One surprise 
was: The point of failure was about 12 inches inboard of the WAF and not at the 
WAF.  After the test the WAFs were dismantled and examined for sheer damage.  
There was no evidence of any sheer stress on the eight WAF nor the AN3 and AN6 
bolts. The report did not say there was not any sheer force, just no evidence.  
I guess they did not find any dents in the bolts.
Bear with me for a little real world analysis.  I assume a 4.2g load.
The tensile strength for AN bolts is 125,000 psi.
AN3 bolts are (3/16 x ½) x (3/16 x ½) x 3.14 = 0.0276 sq in
125,000 x 0.0276 = 3450 pound yield.  The usual recommended bolt tension is 1/3 
the yield rating.
We don't want to crush the lumber, so only snug up to a fifth of that or 690 
pounds.
There are eight  AN3 bolts per WAF or 8 x 690 = 5520 pounds pressure on each 
side of the spar.
Assume the coefficient of friction to be 0.8 and the force needed to move the 
WAF along the spar would be:
0.8 x 5520 = 4416 pounds or 8832 pounds for the WAF pair.
For the 4.2g loading on a 900 pound gross weight KR-2 the WAF forces would be:
The total wing load would be 4.2 x 900 = 3780 pounds.  The center section 
contributes 1/3 the lift.
The outer wing panels share the remainder or 1260 pounds each.
Assume that load is concentrated 36 inches outboard of the WAF AN6 bolts.
For 6.5 inches vertical separation between WAF AN6 bolt pairs, the moment would 
generate:
36/6.5 x 1260 =  6978 pounds directed inboard along the top set of WAFs.
My conclusion: There would be minimal sheer load on the AN bolts for KR WAFs.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> Latex Paint

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

I am about to turn the corner on all the filling and sanding and filling and 
sanding and filling and sanding.  Now for some paint: How about using latex 
exterior primer and semi-gloss exterior latex paint for top coat, then polish 
with 1500 grit and buffing compounds?  Has anyone used latex paint for KRs?
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR>Military fuels

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

KR> Military fuels
55 years ago my uncle had a McCormick farm tractor that started on gasoline 
then switched over to kerosene to run.  My uncle would only run the engine for 
less than 10 second on gasoline before switching to the kerosene.  The gasoline 
tank held about a quart and the kerosene tank held about 8 gallons.  Ignition 
was spark plugs driven by a magneto.  My uncle would plow all day on eight 
gallons of kerosene.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

Mark Langford wrote

...a spark-ignited engine that burns JP-8.   It's not 
that uncommon, as there are at least 5 manufacturers that I know of doing 
the same thing.  

KR> Bubbles in Epoxy resin

[Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN]

Serge,
The usual cause of small bubbles in the epoxy is rapid stirring the resin and 
hardener.  For most wet lay up work this is not a problem.  You will be 
smoothing out with a squeegee and that will get rid of the bubbles.  In the 
certified industry we put the lay up under vacuum and that sucks out the air.  
If you have a small vacuum chamber, you can put the cup of mixed epoxy under 
vacuum for a minute.  That will get rid of the bubbles also.  One hazard with 
entrained air bubbles is when you glue solid pieces together.  The air gets 
trapped in the glue joint and you can have slightly less bonded area in the 
joint.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA

KR> High EGTs

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Usually when you have a problem with a product, you should contact the vendor.  
What does Steve Bennett have to say?
I have a VW 2180 from Great Planes also and am getting close to making real 
airplane noise.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


 << File: ATT26178.txt >> Hey Guys, Need some ideas on how to fix a problem. I 
am flying a VW 2180 
with an 1821 carb and a KR intake sytem from Great Plains Aircraft. My 
compression ratio is 6.9 to 1 with standard cylinder heads. My problem is 
that at cruise my EGTs run 1500 to 1800 degrees on all cylinders while the 
CHTs are normal at 350 to 375 degrees. My EGT Gauge is a WESTACH with the 
probe sensors installed 6 inches from the exhaust port on the heads.  I can 
enrichen the fuel mixture until the engine starts to missfire and then lean 
just a little and the EGTs still run up there in the 1500 to 1800 degree 
range. I finaly burned an exhaust valve. My CHT gauge is also a WESTACH 
system.  I seem to remember someone else had a similiar problem a while 
back.
Also has anyone used an intake system other than the Standard KR intake used 
by most builders? It seems to me that there is to much tubing in the 
multiple pipe system of the KR type intake for low RPMs used in aircraft 
causing the fuel to condense and create poor automization or vaporization 
all the way to the combustion chamber. Would not a single pipe have more 
velocity at the low RPMs. A beach buggy turning 5 to 8 thousand benifits 
from multiple intake pipes but I am not so sure about the 3 to 35 hundred 
range. I would like to hear everyones thoughts.

 THANKS,  STAN   KR2-M

KR> Re:Wet Runways in the winter

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Freezing water and slush are not unique hazards to retract gear.  Wheel pants 
can also collect enough freezing water, slush, etc. from the runway to lockup 
the wheel while you fly around.  Try landing with the main gear wheels locked.  
Fortunately in my case, I landed on a grass strip with a tri-gear aircraft, but 
it was the shortest landing I have ever made.  Pavement would likely have 
produced two or three blown tires at best.  A tail wheel aircraft would have 
flipped easily.  In that frozen wheel situation you have not a clue if that 
wheel will roll on landing or not until actual touchdown. 
Sid Wood
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

Subject:KR> Re:Wet Runways in the winter


>   Just a note to tell you about a flight that i made today in my KR  that 
> can remind  all of us about what can happen  if you don,t take ALL of 
> the  weather factors into concideration  when you go flying. As a side 
> note i probably have one of the last krs that still have the retracts. 
> For those of you that made the gathering this year my KR was the one with 
> the full clamshell gear doors. This is all relevent to the story.  Flying 
> a KR in the north in the winter  means that you usually don,t have that 
> many days that you can fly without freezing to death so you take everyday 
> that you can get and today was such a day. The temp was in the mid 20,s 
> with bright sun and not too much of a cross wind at the field where i 
> base my plane. We had just had a large snow storm 2 days before  but thr 
> runway ws plowed with mostly bare pavement showing. As i taxied my plane 
> to the active  i passed over a lot of snow patches and damp spots on the 
> black pavement. Takeoff was normal and. i headed for a local airport 
> about 20 miles away. Ther was a lot of traffic at  the  field so i 
> extended my upwind leg a ways to allow for spacing. After entering 
> downwind i reached to lower the landing gear only to find that it was 
> frozen solid in the up position. Pucker factor riseing rapidly at this 
> point. After several min,s  of trying i was begining to think that the 
> only option was that i was giong to have to land on the ski runway on the 
> belly. I tried one last dive with a sharp pullout while pulling to lower 
> the gear at the same time when it finally broke  loose. I proceeded to 
> land and when i got out to look the wheel wells were full of ice from the 
> snow and water that had splashed into them. I flew home with the gear 
> extended with no further problems. Now i will have to get my plane into a 
> heated hanger to melt all of the ice before i go flying again. This 
> turned out to have a happy ending but it could have gone the other way 
> with a plane that needed a lot of repairs. I have been flying this plane 
> for 18 years and this is the first time that this has happened. It has 
> given me a new preflight and taxi item to  check. Maybe this will help 
> someone else from having a similar problem.Kip

KR> diehl wing skins

[Wood, Sidney M.]

KR-2 N6242 has Diehl wing skins.  These are RAF 48 and extend the wing span to 
23 feet 6 inches.  The skins are made from Vinyl Ester Resin.  You must use 
Vinyl Ester Resin for any and all glue work that touches the skins.  You must 
not use epoxy to glue the Vinyl Ester skins.  Epoxy will not bond to cured 
Vinyl Ester.  As the Vinyl Ester Resin cures it releases Styrene fumes that 
will turn your workshop into a gas chamber.  A charcoal respirator rated for 
organic fumes will handle that.  Make sure you have plenty of ventilation  and 
the fumes do not go into the house so the dog, cat, goldfish, significant 
other, etc. don't get gassed out.  You have to build the spars with the taper 
to match the skins per the Diehl plans.  If you have already built the spars 
according to the RR plans for KR-2, you will need to junk the outer spars and 
build new ones, or do some weird mods which may not be safe.  If you build in 
wing tanks per the Diehl plans, be certain that you have at least two more 
helpers who thoroughly understand what they are doing when you put the top skin 
on.  And if they use glasses for reading or bifocals, MAKE DAMN SURE THEY ARE 
WEARING THEIR GLASSES.  Don't ask why I make a fuss about that.  You only get 
one chance to put the top skin on and you got to do it right that first time.  
One of the distinct advantages of Vinyl Ester Resin is that it is fuel proof.  
This stuff was originally developed to coat the inside of fuel tanks in 
refineries.  Epoxy will tolerate 100 LL but will deteriorate with automotive 
fuels.  There are additives, such as ethanol, butane, TCP, etc., in automotive 
fuels that will slowly destroy epoxy; Vinyl Ester is totally immune to these 
chemicals.
I had a brief conversation with Dan Diehl a few years ago regarding the KR-2S 
airfoil.  He had thought about producing wing skins for the KR-2S, but decided 
that the new tooling expense was not justified for the limited sets that he 
could sell.  I do not know if he has revisited that decision.  You could 
contact him at Diehl Aero-Nautical, 1855 North Elm, Jenks, OK 74037 (918) 
299-4445 for further information.
Sid Wood 
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

See http://diehlaero.com/
- Original Message - 
From: "Chad Stenson" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 11:18 AM
Subject: KR> diehl wing skins


> Everyone,
>
> What are anyone's thoughts on the Diehl wing skins on a KR2S?  I would 
> assume they use the original RAF48 airfoil rather than the new one 
> correct?  Pros or cons?  $1800 doesn't seem too bad to me.  Does the 
> additional wingspan take away any on the cruise speeds?
>
> Thanks
> chad
>
>

KR> Lights

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Progress comes in all sizes and colors.  This past weekend I wired in the wing 
tip and a landing light on the right wing of my KR-2.  Check out was with the 
battery on my lawn mower.  I was most encouraged to see the shop lit up with a 
white position light, green navigation light, strobe and a landing light.  
Total current draw was 10.3 amps for the one wing.  Times 2 would be 20.6 amps. 
 Hmmm... looks like my Diehl VW 20 amp alternator may be somewhat challenged 
for night flight.
Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2, N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> Oshkosh 2007

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Jim,
I shall do my 1/35th part to make it so.

Sid Wood, Tri-Gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

Jim,

I just want to go on record supporting your goal.  If possible, I will fly 
my KR-2 to Oshkosh 2007.   Last year I completed my 40 hour flight test just 
in time to make The Gathering.  This year I made Sun 'n Fun, Oshkosh, MERFI, 
and The Gathering.

The best way to assure you will fly your KR to Oshkosh in 2007 is to make a 
commitment now.  I'm aware of at least 4 KR's that were flown to The 
Gathering this year after having last minute problems.  They did this 
through extra effort because they had commited to be there.  I know that 
sometimes you have problems that you can't overcome, but if you have made a 
commitment, at least you will try.

BTW, last year I had to stop for fuel going to and coming from The 
Gathering.  This year neither direction.  This is due airframe drag 
reduction.  So far, about 14% improvement, but not enough to offset fuel 
cost increases. :-)

Ken Jones, kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com
Sharonville, OH
N5834, aka The Porkopolis Flying Pig


- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Faughn" 

The one thing that I am personally promoting,
beyond continuing to attend KR Gatherings, is the 35th Anniversary of
the KR. This will be an Oshkosh EVENT and I will be flying there in
2007. I believe we should be able to get at least 35 KR's at the 35th
Anniversary of the KR. This has to be a passion and commitment of
everyone and it has now become my slogan.

Plan on attending the KR Gathering next year and then Oshkosh in 2007.

FINISH YOUR AIRPLANES AND BE AT OSHKOSH 2007

Jim Faughn
35 KR's for the 35th Anniversary at Oshkosh 2007

KR> Long, long sandpaper

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Aircraft Spruce has sandpaper in 3 inch by 5 yard rolls with sticky back in 
medium, fine and superfine grits $7.30, $9.40 and $9.00 per roll.  Their 
600-page catalog is free.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


At the hardware store they have rolls of anti-slip tread tape in several 
widths with a peel off backing to facilitate application. Pick your width 
and stick it to your sanding board. Works great.


>From: "Mark Jones" 
>Reply-To: KRnet 
>To: "KRnet" 
>Subject: RE: KR> Long, long sandpaper
>Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 14:51:07 -0500
>
>Bob, that link does not work
>
>-Original Message-
>From: krnet-bounces+flykr2s=wi.rr@mylist.net
>[mailto:krnet-bounces+flykr2s=wi.rr@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Robert
>L. Stone
>Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 2:39 PM
>To: KR Builders Pilots
>Subject: KR> Long, long sandpaper
>
>
>Builders,
>  I have never seen sandpaper in long narrow strips for sale in any
>hardware store I have ever been in and I have looked.  The reason I was
>looking for long strips of sandpaper was so I could glue a strip on a
>board about 6 to 7 feet long and 4 inches wide for sanding the foam on
>the wings down to the  wood ribs.  Any of you out there that would like
>to know of a source of sandpaper in long strips contact me off net and I
>will send a copy of the catalog front cover showing the company name,
>address and phone number or you may contact them and get a catalog at:
>
>http://www.ahabrasives.com
>
>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>rsto...@hot.rr.com

KR> Re: Auto Fuel/Avgas

[Wood, Sidney M.]

One compound that refiners added to gasoline, both automotive and aviation, was 
tetra-ethyl lead.  This improved the anti-knock or detonation properties for 
the high octane fuels such as 100, 115, 130, etc. aviation fuels.  The EPA 
banned the use of leaded fuels for automotive applications and is pushing hard 
for the same ban on 100 LL.  Problems with leaded fuels are sticking exhaust 
valves and rings, burned exhaust valves, corroded exhaust pipes and mufflers, 
fouled spark plugs and plaque in carburetors and fuel injectors.  Actually the 
EPA was not concerned so much about engines and such, but what the free lead in 
the exhaust emissions was doing to people.  Problems cited were still borne and 
deformed babies, and retarded kids from lead poisoning.  Adults are not immune 
from such nerve damage either.

My understanding is there were no production engines designed to run on leaded 
fuel per se.  Rather the designs were for a specific octane fuel.  Compression 
ratio is the design parameter.  The cheap way to get the high octane fuel to 
perform correctly was to add the tetra-ethyl lead.  Refiners did figure out how 
to make high octane fuels work without the lead, such as the automotive 
gasoline we use and pay dearly for today.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Allen Wiesner 
Sent:   Thursday, August 18, 2005 3:20 PM
To: KRnet
Subject:KR> Re: Auto Fuel/Avgas

IIRC there "used" to be an lead? additive that could be added to gas for 
engines that were designed to run on leaded fuel; does it still exist? and if 
so, what is the name/maker?
___

KR> Bill Clapp at Oshkosh 2005

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I especially enjoyed seeing Bill Clapp's KR-2S parked front and center at the 
Home Builder Headquarters at Oshkosh for the AirVenture convention.  Bill had 
the cowl off everyday to display his Corvair engine installation.
Thanks Bill for the treat.

Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> Oshkosh Head Count

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I will be camping at Camp Schoeller and presenting Composites 101 twice a day 
at the Homebuilder's Workshops Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
The Homebuilders dinner is 6:00 PM on Thursday at the Nature Center.  Get 
tickets at the Homebuilders Headquarters by Noon on Thursday.
Sid Wood a.k.a. Still Sanding
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 
Mechanicsville, MD USA
Cell 240 538-8465
sidney.w...@titan.com


I plan to fly in on Sunday (weather permitting) and stay about 2 or 3 days. 
I plan to camp.  I should arrive at KHFX about noon.

Ken Jones, kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com
Sharonville, OH
Cell 513/604-3273
N5834, aka The Porkopolis Flying Pig
See the Pig leaving Sun 'n Fun 2005 
http://bobby.hargrave.home.att.net/photos/SnF05/SnF05031.jpg

- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Jones" 
To: "KR Net (E-mail)" 
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2005 8:19 AM
Subject: KR> Oshkosh Head Count


> PLEASE RESPOND
>
> Who will be at Oshkosh and what days?
>
> Who is flying their KR to Oshkosh?
>
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI
> Visit my web site: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj
> Email: flyk...@wi.rr.com

KR> OSHKOSH 05

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I will be at the Home Builders Dinner on Thursday evening at the Nature Center. 
 Look for me teaching Composites 101 at the Home Builders Forums Friday, 
Saturday and Sunday.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com
Cell 240 538-8465

I'll try to get the Porkopolis Pig there, depending on the weather, etc. 
It's only half as far as Lakeland for me.  If I make it, I'll be in HBC.

Ken Jones, kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com
Sharonville, OH
N5834, aka The Porkopolis Flying Pig

- Original Message - 
From: 



> ALRIGHTY THEN... who is planning to fly their KR to Oshkosh this year? and
> who is planning to just show up? 

KR> Sanding

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The industrial vacuum cleaner and exhaust fan are going full blast in my shop, 
but there is still a white haze of dust on everything in my shop from the UV 
Smooth Prime.
I still hate sanding!  Now, when was I supposed to learn to love this?
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> Just in from YYYYYEEEEEHHHAAAWWW----OOPPSS!!

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Another lesson you have not quite learned: Aerobatic tolerance is a learned 
skill not usually attained on the first flight!
You got to go easy on low timers.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA


I recommend ziplock plastic bags for barf bag to clock away that odour.

Barry Kruyssen
Cairns, Australia
RAA 19-3873 

k...@bigpond.com
http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm 



  - Original Message - 
  From: ifly...@aol.com 
  To: kr...@mylist.net 
  Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 1:08 PM
  Subject: KR> Just in from YEHHHAAAWWWOOPPSS!!


  Well, I just got in from having a new adventure in the life of  N41768.  A 
  first for me as a pilot and for my plane.   I just had  my first passanger 
that 
  has ever THROWN UP!Talk about an  experience that I wasnt quite prepared 
  for.  One of my friends has a 15  year old daughter that was dying for an 
  airplane ride - first time for  her.  So We hopped in - beautiful weather - 
CAVU !  
  Air was  calm.   Took off and flew over to my house where her folks were and 
  we  circled and buzzed the place a couple times and then headed over to her 
  house -  circled and took some photos.  We leveled off about 1500 AGL and she 
  then  said "I think Im a little sick and might throw up"  I sat there saying 
OH  
  BOY and three second later came the spagetti.  95% on her and 5% on  plane.  
  Pretty good for me considering the odds and the size of a KR!   We headed 
back 
  to land - she said she was sorry about ten times - I said no  problem - just 
  unexpected (thank God for fresh air vents) Landed fine, went  to the hanger 
  and got her cleaned up.  We hopped back in, and little  fresher and lighter, 
  took off and went up to 5000 feet - smooth and calm air and  watched the sun 
go 
  down - absolutely marvelous sunset!  Came back and  landed.   She said it was 
  the best day she ever had.  Was never  nervous or scared.  
  Lesson learned : on new passengers - have them hold  an OPEN barf bag 
  ready for filling!  Some passengers may not give you much  advance warning.
  Lesson Two: Air fresheners

  N41768 "out"

KR> Hangers

[Wood, Sidney M.]

New T hangars 41x32 at 2W6 St. Mary's County about 50 miles southeast of 
Washington DC just outside the ADIZ go for $350/month and end units for 
$380/month.  Box units 44x33 go for $600/month.  There is about a year waiting 
for all the above.  Trailers may look better every day, but you can get three 
KR's in the 41x32 T without disturbing the wings.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

It's easier and CHEAPER to build (or buy) an enclosed trailer and tow the
thing to the airport.  

"Michael Moore is living proof to never trust anyone who is bigger around
than tall!"
---Original Message---

From: Joseph H. Horton
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 03/16/05 13:57:05
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Hangers

Guys,
I just got a call back from my first try at getting into a hanger. If I
go in with this guy it is in a pretty new hanger at the closest airport
to me (only 10 min). His cost is $350/month. My split would be $175. I
think that my area in southeast Pa. is a little higher than other areas.
Does this sound reasonable? It still is a lot more than I wanted to
spend. The wife may have to give up her shoe allowance;-)

Joe Horton
joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com

KR> KR-2 Instrument Panel

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Just to let you folks know that there is a real KR-2 N6242, here is a picture 
of my instrument panel taken October 2004.  
http://eaa478.tripod.com/html/sidskr2_8.html
The black vertical rod is one of the gas struts for the forward hinged canopy.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR>Ugly Airplanes

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Drop-dead gorgeous is wonderful, but performance is better.  And I hate 
Sanding!!
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2, N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

You guys shouldn't worry about ugly airplanes.  The Porkopolis Pig will be 
there just to make sure that no one will be embarrassed (other than me).  It 
doesn't look any better than last year.  I've been working on my other 
project.

Ken Jones, kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com
Sharonville, OH
N5834, aka The Porkopolis Flying Pig
N45WL (White Lightning) Someday

> .
>> Start
>> making your plans to be there now. I will be flying my plane in this
>> year
>> however, I may be taking the UGLIEST KR award this year because I
>> have a
>> feeling once the weather finally lets me in the air, I may just fly
>> it in
>> primer for ever. Everyone get working on finishing up those KR's so
>> we can
>> have another record breaking Gathering. GET PUMPED
>> !
> Mark-- That is what I am afraid of. So many of my finished parts are
> going to the paint shop next week along with my truck that a young lady
> adjusted the side of a couple weeks ago. It still looks good for my first
> flights to be at the start of March.
> Joe Horton




___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Grove gear

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The brackets for my Diehl tri-gear are tight against the fuselage of my 
standard plans KR-2.  The tire width is 7 ft.  Still building.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville MD USA 
sidney.w...@titan.com



From: "Dan Heath" 
 Why did you choose the two piece over the
> single piece?

For a couple of reasons...to get the wider distance between tires based on
the  handling reports like what Larry F reported with his 8ft separation and
it also replicates what those with the Diehl gear were using/doing that I
had seen.
r/Bernie
Lexington Park, MD
KR2S Builder

KR> wing finish quality

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Mark,
Is there a preferred end up for the gas struts?  There was something about 
getting the oil contained in the strut to be metered for proper operation.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com


On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 20:30:52 -0500 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
>There's a token 
> update
> photo (5 minutes old) at 
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/04091808m.jpg .
> The thing I love about this canopy is that I can take both it AND 
> the
> forward deck off by pulling two piano hinge pins and unscrewing the 
> two gas
> strut bolts.  

KR>William Clapp = fuel tanks

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Several years ago I tried an experiment using 1-1/2 inch schedule 40 black PVC 
water pipe.  I cut 3 sections, each about 16 inches long, capped one end using 
PVC cement and filled each about 2/3 full with auto gas (Exxon 93 octane).  I 
capped the top end using PVC cement.  I set the tubes on end in an empty coffee 
can.  Once a month I weighed the tubes.  They were gradually loosing weight.  
After six months the sealed tubes were back to their original empty weight.  No 
liquid was left to slosh.  When I sawed the tubes open, there were no deposits 
inside, just a faint smell of gasoline.  Apparently the auto fuel evaporated 
through the PVC.  The PVC did not appear to be damaged by the auto gas.
Your results may vary.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

Mark,

I think you said the other day that he used PVC pipe for wing tanks. I would 
like to know more about how he did this. Sounds to me like a really good Idea!


Chris Theroux 
Gilbert, AZ

KR> Tri-gear & exhaust mounting question

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I wanted to use a 4-into-1 exhaust on my Great Plains VW 2180, but Steve 
Bennett said it would not work with the Diehl nose gear.  So, I did not use the 
4-into-1.  I am using the Dragon Fly exhaust pipes.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of John Bouyea
Sent:   Tuesday, August 31, 2004 8:31 PM
To: KRNet
Subject:KR> Tri-gear & exhaust mounting question

Is anyone running a 4-into-1 exhaust on a tri-gear?



I sent back a stainless exhaust to RevMaster because it just wouldn't fit.
Today the Great Plains exhaust arrived and it looks like it must be mounted
BEFORE the nose wheel mount is installed.  From the aspect of maintenance,
this seems like a lot of extra work anytime I'm going to remove/ rework the
engine installation.



If you are running a 4-1 on a tri-gear, what is your secret?



Thanks!



John Bouyea

KR2 - hanging the engine accessories

KR2S - boat hanging from the rafters



john_0...@bouyea.net

www.bouyea.net

KR> Conventional Retract Gear for Sale

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I have a complete conventional retract gear for sale.  Includes spring bar, 
gear legs, pivot brackets, up and down latches with micro switches installed, 
gear handle with single-hand release installed, and manual lock-down safety 
pin.  The latches work smooth, slick and positive.  All you need is spar bolts 
and wheels.  I had the retract gear on the aircraft, ready to go, then replaced 
the retract with Diehl fixed tri-gear.  Best offer over $200.  Will bring the 
retract gear to the Gathering.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> Compass dip

[Wood, Sidney M.]

John,
You have rediscovered what most pilots refer to as the Northerly turning error. 
 It has everything to do with the dip angle of the earth's magnetic field.  
Your Airpath compass can only respond to the horizontal component (where you 
are located) of the three-dimensional earth magnetic field.  The angle between 
compass pivot line and the magnetic dip angle will produce a turning force on 
the compass card whenever there is some relative motion such as raising or 
lowering the tail, or turning the aircraft in flight (banking included).  In 
the Northern (magnetic) hemisphere, turning through Northern headings will 
cause the compass indication to lag behind the actual heading during the turn.  
Easterly or Westerly headings will indicate close to the actual heading.  
Southern heading turns will cause the compass to lead the actual heading.  In 
the Southern hemisphere these Northerly and Southerly turning errors are 
reversed due to the opposite magnetic dip angle.  At the Earth's magnetic 
equator the dip angle is zero and these turning errors disappear, but the pitch 
and bank induced errors will remain.  
I don't think there is any way to change the above physics in your compass.  
Airpath does sell compasses for use in the Southern hemisphere for $15 extra.  
These compasses are referred to as "south field".  The manufacturer reverses 
the magnetic field of the compass card, and reverses the numbers on the card by 
180 degrees to get the proper read out.  This then will give the same Northerly 
turning errors indication as found in the Northern hemisphere.
You can adjust your compass to compensate for local magnetic effects due to the 
iron in your engine or magnetic fields generated by your electrical system.  
That's why you should make the compass adjustments with the engine running and 
electrical equipment turned on as directed in the manufacturer instructions.  
My Dynon EFIS does not exhibit turning errors, because it senses and responds 
to the total Earth magnetic field vector.  That includes direction and strength 
of the magnetic field.  The Dynon electronic sensor can tell the difference 
between the Earth's magnetic field and induced magnetic fields produced by the 
aircraft installation.  

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Martindale Family
Sent:   Monday, August 16, 2004 4:48 AM
To: KRnet
Subject:KR> Compass dip

Folks

My Airpath type dash compass seems to fluctuate through 10 degrees one way on 
easterly and the opposite on westerly headings when the tail is lifted on the 
ground to level attitude but not on north or south headings. I think this has 
something to do with the dip setting. Does anyone know how to change these 
compasses from north to south hemisphere settings. Does the card have a 
different slot underneath to take the pivot point? Is it easy to change? Need 
to know before I hack into it.

John

The Martindale Family
29 Jane Circuit
TOORMINA NSW 2452
AUSTRALIA

phone: 61 2 66584767
email: johnj...@chc.net.au
___
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Dynon EFIS

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Steve,
I  have not flown my KR-2 yet.  My experience is limited to talking with the 
hardware and software engineers at Dynon, playing with the D10 on the bench, 
and Navy development programs as a navigation systems consultant.  The Navy 
deployed this same magnetometer technology about 6 years ago in their tactical 
aircraft with excellent results.  The military environmental requirements and 
operating conditions will put more wear and tear on avionics in six months than 
we will put on a KR-2 in twenty years.  None of the military magnetometer 
systems have any lag or tendency to drop sync or get "lost".
The Dynon EFIS D10 keeps the heading gyro constantly slaved to the magnetic 
heading sensor.  There is no drift in heading, no lead or lag, no over shoot.  
You never have to reset the heading gyro every few minutes as you must with a 
mechanical directional gyro.  The gyros in the D10 are all solid-state digital 
electronic units.  The attitude gyros in the D10 are constantly being leveled 
using solid state digital accelerometers.  The leveling rate is controlled by 
the digital processor and takes into account the maneuvering dynamics and the 
three-axis magnetic attitude sensing as well.  This is a far cry from the 
mechanical gyros that try to level through uncoordinated turns and aerobatics 
and made you fly straight and level to get any reasonably accurate pitch and 
roll info.  The D10 tracks the flight dynamics and modifies the leveling 
routine to optimize the display.  There is a small error in the attitude during 
extreme maneuvers , but you will not be able to see it on the display.  The D10 
does flag the attitude display when you do stuff like inverted spins or 
hammerhead stalls.  It will recover in less than 5 seconds after reasonably 
level flight is resumed.  This kind of test is easy to do on the bench.  
The D10 is not certified for Instrument Flight Rules applications and should 
not be relied on in Instrument Meteorological Conditions.  There are several 
certified EFIS brands available for IFR use, with corresponding price tags to 
match.  The D10 does provide all the FAA-required flight instrument displays 
for VFR, including the magnetic compass.  I have no other flight instruments 
but the D10 in N6242.  You should install backup electrical power.  The D10 
uses external 13.6 volts dc, external backup 13.6 volts dc (another battery), 
and internal rechargeable battery power for triply redundant power sources, as 
you may choose.  I am using the first two sources without the internal 
batteries.  Just another cost item I felt was not justified on a VFR bird.  
Incidentally, the Rutan Space Ship One uses the D10 as a backup to the primary 
EFIS.
I did not use the AoA function, because I had already installed my pitot-static 
probe and did not want to put in another (separate) static port and plumbing.  
AoA is certainly a useful function.  I have done a few goofy things while 
flying airplanes, but I have never inadvertently stalled an airplane.  My 
flying is just not that close to the edge of the envelope. 

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

___
My Dynon EFIS does not exhibit turning errors, because it senses and
responds to the total Earth magnetic field vector.  

+++

Hey Sid - I am about to order 4 Dynon's (EFIS D10) and I still have no
first hand info on their performance.  I had some reservations and
communicated with someone at Dynon (Doug Medema) - he answered my
questions, but still left me wondering.

I would be interested in any advice or info you may be prepared to part
with.  I am particularly interested in the AH function during very slow
turns - have you noted any tendency for the instrument to lag or become
"lost"?

Would you be comfortable with just a D10 in IF conditions.  I am
referring to the functionality, not the reliability.

Did you use their fancy AoA pitot?

You comment about the compass is interesting - despite reading the blurb
many times, I did not realize that this facility existed.  I will
happily chop 4 x $169 off the order.

Take care
Steve J

KR> Dynon EFIS

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Steve,
I bought the Pitot-static tube from AS, P/N 15144 for $15.65 plus shipping.  It 
is mounted on an aluminum L bracket glued to the forward face of the left outer 
main spar, about 3 feet from the tip.I thought about putting it on the stub 
wing, but wanted to be sure it  was out of the prop wash and clear of the wheel 
pants.  Anywhere along the outer wing would work, but I did not want to cut any 
extra holes for access to the plumbing.  Access is behind the landing light 
Plexiglas lens.  The 3/16 Nylaflow nylon tubing is routed through PVC conduit 
glued to the forward face of the main spar, as are the landing and navigation 
light wires.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

--- 
Did you make up your own pitot?

Take care
Steve J

KR> Compass dip

[Wood, Sidney M.]

John,
You are changing the geometry between the compass pivot and the local magnetic 
dip angle by raising the tail.  All the magnetic compass calibration procedures 
say to make adjustments with the aircraft at normal flight attitude.
I contacted Airpath about making internal changes to their compasses.  They 
said there were no internal settings or adjustments and recommended that the 
compass not be opened.  The only exterior adjustments are the N-S and E-W 
magnets for installation compensation.  The "south field" compasses have no 
internal settings or adjustments.  These compasses are setup to give the same 
Northerly turning error response in the Southern hemisphere as the "north 
field" compasses do in the Northern hemisphere by using a compass card with 
opposite polarity magnetization and appropriate numbering.  My summary: If it 
ain't broke, don't fix it. 

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

Hi Sid and Virg

Yep, I understand the theory behind the behaviour but what I describe is
occurring when the aircraft is stationary on the ground, that is, no
acceleration or turn rate errorsjust lifting up the tail.

 I'm just wondering how simple are the mechanical adjustments actually made
to alter a Northern to a Southern in the Airpath type compass. I'm hoping,
if I dissassemble it and it is Northern, that all I need to is to relocate
the card on an opposite offset pivot point or relocate some balance weights
to the opposite end to minimise the effect downunder. This is really my
question.

I suppose it's not really all that important given it seems to be accurate
in straight and level and subject to the normal acceleration/turn errors
that we are all taughtprobably just as easy to return to ASS and swap
for $15-00 but I'm curious as usual and if I can confirm it and change it
here for nix then I will to save freight.

It's hard to believe that devastation pictured. All those beautiful flying
machines and of course the lives lost and possessions destroyed. My best
wishes to all those affected.

John

The Martindale Family
29 Jane Circuit
TOORMINA NSW 2452
AUSTRALIA

phone: 61 2 66584767
email: johnj...@chc.net.au
- Original Message -
From: "Wood, Sidney M." <smw...@titan.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 11:59 PM
Subject: RE: KR> Compass dip


> John,
> You have rediscovered what most pilots refer to (snip)

KR> Plan #'s

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The Plan # is the serial number starting from day one when the plans were put 
on the market.  That is also your proof number if the FAA wants to check back 
with RR that you have a legal set of plans.  You are authorized to build one KR 
using that set of plans and no more than one.  It's in the copy write laws and 
it is FAA policy to enforce this.  If your FSDO checks on this, may be another 
matter.  The Book Number is the update version.  So, if you have a Book No. 82, 
that is the revision 82 edition.  I got this info from personal conversation 
with Jeannette Rand.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com




>I am looking at my builders book and realized that I do not fully know
>what the hand scribed numbers at the top right of my book mean.  
>On top is "# 6123" and on the bottom is "book 59".  Does anyone 
>have the correct meaning of the top number. 

This is only an educated guess, but it is my understanding that RR
keeps the name and address of the original plans purchaser (and 
possibly any known secondary) in notebooks in numerical sequence.
Since they are over 10K on the KR-2 / 2S that makes for a lot of 
books.  My basic KR-2 S/N is 9707, "Master File Book No.82".

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> Epoxy Varnish on Spars

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Type A epoxy resins contain a small amount of wax.  The curing epoxy is 
hydroscopic: The resin draws moisture from the air; this will interfere with 
the polymerization process and drastically slows down the curing process to the 
point of staying tacky for months.  The wax film prevents the hydroscopic 
action.  Type B epoxy resins (so called laminating resins) do not contain the 
wax.  Their intended use is for multiply lay-ups in quick succession before the 
first or under laying lay-ups have cured.  The final lay-up would use Type A 
resin for open air room cure.  Vacuum bagging would use Type B throughout.  
Unless the label says otherwise, you can assume the resin is the Type A 
containing the wax.  The resins used in polyester and vinyl ester tend to 
dissolve the surface of cured epoxy, which then resets in the curing process to 
effect a tighter bond.  Do not confuse this ester to epoxy bond as a true 
polymer bond.  These are totally different families of chemicals.  It would be 
like saying lizards and birds lay eggs, so they should be pretty much the same 
animal.  As stated in the previous post, it's not a good idea to mix systems.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of cartera
Sent:   Monday, August 09, 2004 12:13 PM
To: KRnet
Subject:Re: KR> Epoxy Varnish on Spars

Good Morning
This is a misconception, cured epoxy does not leave a waxy residue only
in the esters does this happen. That is why one if necessary can put
polyester on epoxy but not epoxy on any polyester. Furthermore, it's not 
a good idea to mix systems. Suggest that a
thorough research be done on resins before this misconception is thrown
out. This is why it is not a good idea to use varnish on the inside for
sealing, but epoxy diluted with alcohol then one does not have to sand
out varnish in the event that further gluing has to take place. However,
it should still be roughed up before gluing for adhesion.
Happy Flying!

patrusso wrote:
> Cured epoxy leaves a waxy residue that must be cleared off from surfaces
> that will be reglued to attach other parts. You may find it easier to finish
> you rib and other attachments to the spar before epoxying.
> - Original Message -
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 1:48 AM
> Subject: KR> Epoxy Varnish on Spars
> 
> 
> 
>>I have some epoxy varnish left over from painting the inside of the fuse.
> 
> Is it OK to use it on the spars? They're closed, but I haven't begun to
> assemble the wings yet.
> 
>>Rick Coykendall
>>KR-2
>>rick...@yahoo.com

-- 
Adrian VE6AFY
Mailto:cart...@spots.ab.ca
http://www.spots.ab.ca/~cartera

KR> Fuel tanks

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Your question indicates you have not checked out the numerous how-to books on 
composite construction.  Experimental Aircraft Association at www.eaa.org or 
Aircraft Spruce at www.aircraftspruce.com or Wicks at www.wicks.com have lots 
of helpful books for sale.  The weekend hands-on training offered by SportAir 
Workshops www.sportair.com can provide lots of practical help. 

I assume you are using urethane foam for the tank structure.  Any fuel leak 
will dissolve polystyrene foam, as will polyester and vinyl ester resin.  
Standard practice is to coat the raw foam surface with a film of micro followed 
immediately by a wet glass or carbon fiber lay-up.  The micro is lighter than 
straight resin and helps prevent too much of the heavier resin from the wet lay 
up soaking into the porous foam.  The idea is to produce a light and strong 
structure.  For best chemical resistance, recommend that you use vinyl ester 
resin for the fuel tank construction.  Epoxy will work ok as long as you only 
use aviation grade 100 octane LL fuel.  Automotive fuels may contain alcohol 
and aromatic additives that will attack the epoxy.  Vinyl ester resin is not 
susceptible to chemical attack by automotive fuels.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

Hi all,
Is it necessary to micro the insides of the fuel tanks before glassing as we do 
on the exterior surfaces??
I'm just starting on my header tank.

Thanks 

Gav

KR> Fuel tanks

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I did the same tests mentioned in the previous post using Safe-T-Poxy, 
fiberglass and urethane foam, and vinyl ester resin, fiber glass and urethane 
foam.  Fuels used were Shell 93 octane purchased in February and the same Shell 
93 octane purchased in July from the same pump, Exxon 100LL obtained at 2W6 and 
gasohol containing ten percent alcohol.  The July vintage Shell 93 octane and 
the 100 LL  showed no degradation on the test lay-ups after one year.  The 
February Shell 93 octane specimen was tacky after a one-year exposure.  The 
gasohol had dissolved the epoxy resin after one year.  The urethane foam was 
not affected in those samples.  The vinyl ester resin was not affected by any 
of these fuels.  You may have taken my post out of context.  It is not the 
gasoline that does the damage to the epoxy.  The alcohol and aromatic additives 
in the automotive gasoline seem to be the source of the chemical attack.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com



At 08:08 AM 8/10/2004, you wrote:
>   For best chemical resistance, recommend that you use vinyl ester resin 
> for the fuel tank construction.  Epoxy will work ok as long as you only 
> use aviation grade 100 octane LL fuel.  Automotive fuels may contain 
> alcohol and aromatic additives that will attack the epoxy.  Vinyl ester 
> resin is not susceptible to chemical attack by automotive fuels.

It is a common misconception that autofuel will degrade epoxy resin.  This 
is not necessarily so.  I prepared two sample coupons of Last-A-Foam and 
EZ-Poxy.  One coupon was saved as a control.

One half of the test coupon was fully submerged in autogas and the other 
half was not.  This coupon remained in a sealed container for over four 
years with absolutely no degradation.  There was no loss of strength, there 
was no sediment, and there was no discoloration of the gasoline.  After the 
coupon was removed and dried off, it was impossible to tell the difference 
between it and its control coupon.

The two things that must be done to ensure a chemically resistant gas tank 
is to have the mixture ratio correct and completely mixed.  If your 
resin/hardener ratio is off, there will be an uncured component in the 
final epoxy matrix.  It can dissolve in an solvent.  The same is true if 
you do not mix the components sufficiently.

Epoxy will work with autogas but your quality control is important.



Don Reid  -  donreid "at" erols.com
Bumpass, Va

Visit my web sites at:

AeroFoil, a 2-D Airfoil Design And Analysis Computer Program:
http://www.eaa231.org/AeroFoil/index.htm

KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm
Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm
EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org
Ultralights: http://usua250.org
VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org

KR> Mogas and alchohol

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Mogas handling leaves a lot to be desired regarding exact content of the 
product as pumped versus that which is advertised.  Avgas is certified to be 
alcohol-free, but it certainly is not free.  How much longer Avgas will be 
available is also in question.  I still recommend that composite fuel tanks be 
constructed with vinyl ester resin for best chemical endurance.  The styrene 
fumes from the curing vinyl ester resin can be handled with plenty of 
ventilation plus a charcoal respirator.  Sanding vinyl ester is a frustrating 
chore, but then there is not that much to do for a fuel tank.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


Sid's statement may result in someone thinking that
they could use the gas without alchohol in it and not
have trouble with the epoxy used to make the fuel
tank.

I have worked with the fire marshal's office here in
town and from what I heard, the alchohol content of
commercially available gas is not reliable due to
storage at the fueling facility. In short, one may
think they are getting alchohol free mogas but that
may not be the case.

Ameet Savant
ameetsavant at yahoo dot com

> It is not the gasoline that does the
> damage to the epoxy.  The alcohol and aromatic
> additives in the automotive gasoline seem to be the
> source of the chemical attack.
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD USA
> sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> Turboprop Power

[Wood, Sidney M.]

You say you want go fast horses?  How about 255 hp and 188 pounds?  Check out 
this site http://innodyn.com   
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> Attending Oshkosh

[Wood, Sidney M.]

What is the plan for a KR dinner at Oshkosh Air Venture 2004?

Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA 

KR> Attending Oshkosh

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Wolfgang,
Composites 101 www.airventure.org/forums/interest.asp is, as the title implies, 
the entry level for composite construction.  This is the first lesson in the 
2-day weekend Sport Air composites workshops that EAA sponsors during the year. 
 The Air Venture session is abbreviated slightly with less hands-on practice.

Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


Sid,

I will stop by at the afternoon session. I suppose you are talking about the
Composites 101 course going from 1:00 to 2:30 p.m. I won't be able to make
the morning session, since my flight arrives in Appleton around 9:00 a.m.

Hope to see as many KR's at Osh' as I can.

Wolfgang

KR> Gathering camping??

[Wood, Sidney M.]

What facilities are available for camping at Mt Vernon?  
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
---
Anybody up for camping??

I asked Larry a week or so ago about airplane camping and he responded in 
his post a couple days ago it was available.

I am not going to Oskkosh this year so I'm missing out on my regular fall 
airplane camping (can you say, medical school application and finishing up 
this R@gotta save every penny out there not just the ones head's up I 
see in the parking lots:-) so I'm going to camp out Saturday night there at 
the area provided at the airport.  I'll bring along my generator, awning, 
bug spray, cooler (full of soda...right), and a host of airplane lies.  
I'll delay hauling out the banjo until anyone else silly enough to camp out 
gets way too intoxicated to remember me playing it:-)

I'm thinking this could be way too much fun.


Seriously, anyone else up for some foolishness??



Dana Overall
1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive

KR> Attending Oshkosh

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Come by the Composites forum or the Home Builders Construction office on 
Friday.  After the forums we can talk KR's.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of wdec...@cox.net
Sent:   Tuesday, July 13, 2004 2:53 PM
To: KRnet
Subject:Re: RE: KR> Attending Oshkosh

How about those who cannot make it the whole week? I will be in Oshkosh from 
Friday through Sunday (July 30 through August 1), and would really welcome the 
opportunity to see one or two KR's as well as talk to some builders. Any idea 
for on informal meeting during these days?

Wolfgang
> 
> From: Mark Jones 
> Date: 2004/07/13 Tue PM 02:03:59 EDT
> To: 'KRnet' 
> Subject: RE: KR> Attending Oshkosh
> 
> There is a KR forum (meeting) on Tuesday July 27 at 11:30am in tent #10.
> This will be the biggest single gathering of KR builders, pilots and 
> those who want to be. This is your best chance to meet a lot of KR family
> members.
> 
> Mark Jones
> N886MJ
> Wales, WI
> flyk...@wi.rr.com
> 

KR> Vacuum pump

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Even the gee whiz Sirius machines and Cessna 182 glass cockpits are required to 
have the analog gauges.  Still in transition...

Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

-

Dynon makes a great unit and if VFR is your only goal than all is good.  If IFR 
is your goal than it is not IFR for stand alone use. It must be backed up by 
all analog gauges or 2 electrical systems in the event of electrical failure of 
the primary.  True all electric panels have been used for years in the jets but 
with redundant electricals.  Even more weight
 Every choice has its own compromises, choose whatever best suits you...

Come inspector please call back

Colin & Bev Rainey
KR2(td) N96TA
Sanford, FL
crain...@cfl.rr.com
http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html

KR> Wheel Pants

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The baffles, front and back, do keep mud, snow, stones, dirt, etc. from 
accumulating in the front and back of the wheel pant. Another important 
function is to limit circulation of air around the wheel for better streamline 
air flow at the opening.  You can get so carried away with the tight fit that 
you limit the cooling air for the brakes.  One-half inch is a practical limit.  
 Make sure there are no shelf areas inside the pant that could accumulate 
debris.  The baffles also strengthen the sidewalls, so you can build the pants 
lighter.  Be sure to leave room for the mounting bracket when you install the 
baffle.  A drain vent at the bottom is needed if the compartment will be sealed 
(one of those altitude things to keep in mind).
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com



>Should a liner be placed inside around the wheel to keep the pants from
filling with debris or water?  
>Jim Vance
+

I'd say no.  The tighter the space around the wheel the easier it will
be for it to pack with mud, snow, etc.   Water?  How tight is the
opening around your tire?  Many wheel pants such as Cessna, Piper,
have a mud scraper built into the pant on the backside of the tire
to cut down the amount of mud that gets in but that probably isn't
necessary on the KR.  Clearance?  Generally speaking, the tighter 
the better.  Just realize that in the case of a flat you may get some
pant damage.

Larry Flesner

KR> Off the couch

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I will be there showing the tourists how to use epoxy and fiber glass at the 
construction forums.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com



BTW, who's going to OSH?  Beer and Brats anyone??

Dana Overall

KR> 2180 VW

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Netters,
Just got my 2180 VW from Steve Bennett yesterday.  What a gorgeous looking 
machine!!  Seems a shame to hide it in a cowl, but the firewall awaits.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> spar skins

[Wood, Sidney M.]

No one has mentioned the 5/8" vertical spruce blocks that the plans call for 
when building KR spars.  The spars are a variant of an I-beam.  The function of 
the web in any I beam or box beam is to keep the two caps from coming together. 
 No matter what loading is put on the beam - plus or minus g's, or twisting, 
and any combination of these forces - the caps will tend to come closer 
together.  Beam failure will be either crushing the cap that is under 
compression, breaking of the cap under tension, or crush of the web followed 
immediately by buckling or crush of the compression cap.  Metal tends to 
buckle; wood tends to crush.  The theory and practice is to always have the 
caps either in compression or tension, never in bending.  The lumber is much 
stronger in tension or compression and poor in bending.  The 3/32 plywood, used 
for a web, will always be subject to compression and is strongest along the 
length of the grain (as Don Ried cites).  Plywood has an odd number of plies 
with outside plies in the same grain orientation.  That is the strongest 
dimension orientation.  The KR box beam construction is probably way over-built 
at 21 g failure.  So, you could put the plywood on in any random orientation 
and probably still have a 6-g airplane.  For the exact same weight would you 
prefer a 21-g wing or something less?  Ken Rand and Stu Robinson got it right.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


And having said that, here's one from Don Reid where he advocates running
the grain horizontal, rather than vertical.  I'd trust just about anything
Don says as gospel.
--
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Jul 20, 1999 8:27 AM

From: Donald Reid 

Subject: Re: Grain direction.who cares it's plywood...my turn at a
'STUPID' Question


Tim wrote:

> Like Aircraft Plywood is either 90 or 45 degrees, I assume this is how
> the ply's (3-7) are layered. So grain direction of the top sheet is of
> interest, but I wouldn't think the orintation is as critical in dealing
> with the Spar web as perhaps Aluminium .

OK, here are some numbers.  Anyone who is interested can make up their
own mind.  All data are for birch plywood and taken from ANC-18, Design
of Wooden Aircraft Structures. (The thick pieces are included just to
show the effect with more plys)

thickness   # plysparallel   perpendicular
0.125" 3   15.17 5.544
0.160" 5   21.46 11.47
0.410" 7   131.1 80.91

All plys are equal thickness.  The numbers are moment for fiber stress
at the proportional limit in units of inch-pounds per inch of width.

As to why the KR plans specify a vertical orientation, it is because Ken
Rand and Stu Robinson got it wrong.
---
Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
N56ML at hiwaay.net
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

KR> Ignition noise

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Ken,
The wider plug gap will cause the voltage to build to a higher value before the 
plug fires.  This in turn releases more peak RF energy in a shorter time when 
the plug fires.  This produces a much stronger RF pulse; not good if you want 
the best radio communications in the aircraft band, but great if you want a 
spark-gap radio transmitter.  An Italian guy, Marconi, discovered this about a 
100 years ago.  Since Wilber and Orville were not talking to ATC yet, nobody 
much cared then.  But now, with our road warrior mind set, we have shielded 
plug wires, filter capacitors, resistor plug wires, shielded plugs, resistor 
plugs, lead dress and all manner of tricks to tame the magical genie in AM 
radio.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


From:   Kenneth L Wiltrout
  For those of u that responded, Joe at Revmaster said what did I gap the
plugs  at, I told him since no instructions came with them I took the
average of what they were gapped at in the box and set them all at .030.
He said that is probably most of the problem, regap to .016 they are
trying too hard to fire and creating to much RF
energy---Does this make sense

KR> Epoxy

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The West System pumps work great for dispensing other resins and hardeners, but 
you have to weigh the output since they would not necessarily be calibrated for 
another system.  I use these pumps for dispensing vinyl ester resin also.  Sure 
beats trying to pour a small exact quantity out of a gallon can.  You can 
change the calibration by altering the length of the blue insert in the barrel 
of the pump.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

Ray
The recent education tape I received from the Gougen Brothers West System 
epoxies don't have interaction problems, and work like a dream. Get the 
dispenser pumps and you are never wrong on the amount of mix, and it goes down 
great. I won't use anything else.  And it doesn't smell bad.  Use yogurt cups 
for mixing and let them cure overnight and you can just flex the cup and clean 
off the epoxy and use it again.

Colin & Bev Rainey
KR2(td) N96TA
Sanford, FL
crain...@cfl.rr.com
http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html

KR> KR paint job

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Tim,
My plan is to put the Poly Fiber Smooth Prime and paint on with a fine nap 
roller.  A Pulsar builder in my chapter used this method with beautiful 
results.  Bought the roller and pan at Lowes (about $6).
Poly Fiber says there is no RF attenuation through any of their paint products 
over fabric or fiber glass.  Carbon fiber will drastically attenuate RF signals.
I will be camping in the camp ground in my pop-up.  Look for me in the Workshop 
area showing folks how to use epoxy and fiber glass.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


Well guys, in between rain storms and overtime at work, I am finaly ready to
shoot the top coats on my bird.I am still using Stits Navada silver.
Now before I get flooded with e-mail, I did a test for radio interference.
Now I know that this is not a very accurate way to test it but I sprayed two
coats of paint on a cardborad box, and transmitted to an aircraft in flight
from underneath it, I belive this would simulate any interference form the
paint. I am also using a canopy mounted ant.
I have finished wet sanding the entire airframe and finding areas to spot
puddy, I will apply a sealer coat before the paint.
 My plan is to camp with my plane at airventure this year, is anyone else
going to do this?
Tim
KR2  N7038V

KR> boat question

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Jim,
My thought is you will want all the strength in the longeron that is available. 
 So don't sand anymore than absolutely necessary, especially at the fire wall 
area.  Some builders, I have observed on their websites, have added extra 
plywood on the inside top and bottom of the fuselage sides to beef up the 
firewall attachment.  These builders are using the bigger engines for increased 
performance.  I am using a 2180 VW and have 3-inch wide 1/4-inch plywood at the 
top and 2-inch wide 1/4-inch plywood at the bottom.  The floor from the 
firewall to the main spar is 1/4-inch plywood inside for added strength (and 
for big feet per the KR-2 plans suggestion).  All these added plywood pieces 
are gusseted into the firewall frame.  Perhaps this is overdone, but I want to 
avoid a citation from the EPA for littering the landscape with old KR-2 bits 
and pieces.  Environmental cleanups are getting so expensive these days...
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of James Leverton
Sent:   Wednesday, June 16, 2004 2:31 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject:KR> boat question

 << File: ATT29349.txt >> I am installing the top cross members on the boat.  
The 5/8 x 5/8 piece that 
sits on top of the top longerons about 4" back.  Since the sides angle, it 
does not sit flat on the longeron.  Should I notch that cross member or sand 
the longerons level like you do for the bottoms?  Thanks for any advice.  
Jim

_
MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups - now 3 months FREE! 
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

KR> Mogas and fibre glass

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Bill,
The glass fiber in fiber glass is totally immune to any chemical attack from 
anything that might be contained in any gasoline, and is also oblivious to 
ultraviolet light from the sun.  The resin is another story.  Epoxy resin is 
subject to UV attack.  Vinyl Ester resin is also subject to UV attack.  That is 
why we hide them from the sun with primer paint that has UV protection.  100 LL 
aviation gasoline works fine with epoxy resin fabricated tanks.  Automotive 
fuels will contain alcohol, oxiginators, propane and other additives.  These 
will attack epoxy resins.  Vinyl ester resin is immune to the additives in 
automotive gasoline.  For that reason fiber glass fuel tanks should be 
fabricated using vinyl ester resins.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com



Is there any evidence that motor gas  will affect the fibre-glass fuel 
tanks in our KR's?  I have a continental and have always used avgas, but 
with the increasing costs i am considering mogas.


William J.G. (Bill) Crawford
Senior Research Consultant
Research in Building Science
CMHC, Ontario
416-218-3342 Toronto
519-873-2422 London
___

KR> tire pressure?

[Wood, Sidney M.]

My KR-2 plans call out 35 psi for the Lamb tires for the tail dragger and 
assumes 900 lbs max gross weight.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


They say max inflation pressure of 70 psi, but I doubt that's a good
starting point.



Something more scientific will hopefully emerge - in the interim, for
what it is worth.


Baron nose gear (500x5) carries about double (900lbs on one wheel) and
calls for 50 psi

Cherokee 6 nose gear (600x6) carries about the right weight as one KR
wheel (approx 500lb) and calls for 28 /30 psi.

I had a word with our A - I estimated a typical gross for 56ML of
1100lbs.

Kenny suggests around 32 /35 psi for a tricycle and 38 /42 for a tail
dragger - I gather that draggers offer more potential for high
side-loads.

He does not think the speed limitations will be reached on a KR - so
anything from 5 ply up.

Steve J

KR> Reduction Drive Unit

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Tony Bengelis in his engine installation book, "Bengelis On Engines" (available 
from www.eaa.org or www.aircraftspruce.com ) recommends 9" minimum prop 
clearance.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of virginia
Sent:   Tuesday, June 08, 2004 1:49 AM
To: KRnet
Subject:KR> Reduction Drive Unit

I like the idea of a reduction drive unit, to swing a larger, hence more
efficient prop. My concern is the ground clearnce, which at the monet looks
like some 6". What should be a minimum here?

PETER WASTNEY ENGINEERING LTD
222 Wakapuaka Road
RD1
Nelson

Tel: 03 545 0848
Fax: 03 545 0848
Web: www.pwe.co.nz


___
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Reduction Drive Unit/ Prop Clearance

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Phil,
It does not matter whether tri or tail dragger.  Tri-gear will be level and 
tail dragger will be level on take off and landing.  A hard landing will put 
the prop down even more.  Either way the prop will be mowing grass ( or dirt or 
pavement) and throwing sand at the fuselage and tail if you do not have enough 
ground clearance for your prop.  All it takes is the barest touch and you will 
be replacing a ruined prop and worrying if the crank shaft is cracked.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


Sid,
Is that tri or tail dragger.

Phillip Matheson
mathe...@dodo.com.au
Australia
VH PKR
See our engines  and kits at.
http://www.vw-engines.com/
http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/
See my KR at Mark Jones web
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/pmkr2.html

KR> KR-2 T-Tail

[Wood, Sidney M.]

KR Netters,
Just received this from Harold Woods.  His link is 
www.uaespaces.com/harold/index.htm
Sid Wood KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

Hi Sid.
I am using a Franklin ,60 HP, 2 cylinder,4 cycle , approved aircraft engine.. 
It will be rather low powered because I am afraid that my weight is building 
up. It is T tailed because it has spoilers in the wing stubs for glide slope 
control.
A builder in England also put spoilers on his KR and found that there was 
buffeting on the horizontal stabilizers when the spoilers were deployed. I thus 
put the horizontal stabilizer up higher, out of the way of any turbulance.
I hope that it works. I have to put in the instument panel, wire the engine, 
run the gas to the carb, add the brake lines,adjust the ailerons, put in the 
front windows, ( They have been fitted previously) and paint it. I cannot say 
when all this will be completed.
Thank you for your interest.
Regards
Harold Woods
Orillia, ON.Canada.
haroldwo...@rogers.com

KR> RE Sweat

[Wood, Sidney M.]

My 24 X 42 shop has a small house type oil furnace and central air conditioning 
unit, cost $970 plus $500 installation.  I did the electric myself.  Exhaust 
fan is 600 cfm unit from Lowes; installed that myself.  My oil bill is $219 a 
year and electric is $17 a month (separate meter for the shop).  For the amount 
of time I spend in that shop, that's a bargain.  Plus, I can control the 
environmental conditions so my epoxy will cure properly.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message- 
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Jack Cooper
Sent:   Thursday, June 03, 2004 2:29 PM
To: KRnet
Subject:RE: KR> RE Sweat

I have a large 240Volt blower (from a central AC unit) mounted high next to
the walk through door which I turn on during the summer months. It makes it
bearable to work in the eastern NC heat and humidity. If you know someone
who installs AC units you can probably get one very cheep or free.
Jack Cooper


> [Original Message]
> From: Kevin Angus 
> To: KRnet 
> Date: 6/3/2004 1:59:09 PM
> Subject: RE: KR> Nitril Gloves-chemicals :RE Sweat
>
> "90 degrees in the shop in the summertime, can't see thru the bifocal with
> the glasses sitting on top of the nose piece on the mask, sweat dripping
> everywhere, wondering when my sweat is going to drown me. Glasses fogging
up
> from the heat and moisture coming out of the exits on the mask. Gloves
> dripping sweat all over everything from the openings around the wrist.
Heart
> pounding and lungs pumping trying to get enough air. Long sleeves and long
> pants dripping wet, so hot, I think I am gonna to pass out."
> snip
>
> I picked up a pair of contacts to deal with the 'sweat' issue while
working
> outside, they work great but I am still having problems sticking objects
> into my eyes. And yes I have 'Progressive' glasses with a stigmatism, they
> gave me three contacts and depending on what I'm trying to do I switch the
> left eye contact to 'HI' or 'LOW'... And it works!
>
> I was watching the local hardware stores (Home Depot - Lowe's) for a
slider
> casement 10K air conditioner and found one at Home Depot marked down to
> $280.00. I plan on building a 16X30 work shop in the 45X72 hanger then
> mounting the 10K AC unit on the workshop for AC and using a small furnace
> located outside of the workshop for heat during the winter months with
> recirculation/external cold air and an exhaust port venting to the outside
> of the hanger. The Cold air return will be set up like a car,
recirculation
> or external depending on what I'm doing.
>
>

KR> carbon fiber

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Brian,
Most fibers used for laminating, including E and S glass and carbon fiber, have 
a coating applied to the individual strands to enhance the adhesion of whatever 
resin system would be used to glue everything together.  That coating has a 
5-year shelf life.  My thought is if the shelf life is getting ready to expire, 
then the dealer would reduce the price to move that batch before it expired.  
The resin will not wet out old fiber very well - been there, done that.  Your 
results may vary.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
I was looking online yesterday for good prices on carbon fiber and found
this site.  http://www.advancedcompositetraders.com/inven.html  They have
style 282 cloth for $12.50 a yard.  I checked in my last years Aircraft
Spruce catalog and they had 282 cloth for $25.75 a yard.  This years catalog
has it for $16.50 a yard.  This seemed strange so I looked in Wicks and they
have 282 cloth listed at $28.20 a yard and they also have a C282 commercial
grade cloth for $17.19 a yard.

I am assuming that the online source and ACS, at least this year, carry the
commercial grade.  Would anyone happen to know what the difference is?
Seems that the commercial grade is 5.8 oz and the other is 5.7.

I know that the commercial grade is stronger and lighter than glass so I am
assuming that for a KR that there is realy no reason to go with the other
type that is over twice the cost.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

KR> Got my plans today

[Wood, Sidney M.]

My rudder cables are running through 3/16 inch nyla-flo tubing from the pedals 
through the cockpit area so the cables don't rub on upholstery or people.  The 
nyla-flo tubing passes through the associated fairleads in the cockpit.  Also 
have 12-inch lengths of nyla-flo tubing floxed through the 3/32 plywood where 
the cables exit the fuselage ahead of the rudder.  Seems to be working very 
nicely.  I had the same treatment for the elevator cables in the cockpit until 
I took those cables out and went with push-pull rods for elevator and ailerons.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com



Has anyone run the rudder cables through a plastic conduit. What would the 
ramifications be of doing so?

Please be gentle in you flaming.

God is in the details
Ron Smith

KR> RV grin---off at a tangent

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The "SASSER" virus is running rampant now.  My IT guy says it tries to harvest 
e-mail addresses then randomly sends parts of old e-mails to random picks from 
your address list with a copy of itself buried in an attachment.  Norton has a 
SASSER blocker, but if you don't have the upgrade as of two days ago you may 
have lots of e-mail related problems.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com 

 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net 
[mailto:krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net]  On Behalf Of Brian Kraut
Sent:   Tuesday, May 04, 2004 2:41 PM
To: KRnet
Subject:Re: KR> RV grin---off at a tangent

I was not from me.  Apparently, someone with a lot of KRlisters in their 
address book got a virus and now the email addresses are being spoofed or the 
addresses were harvested off of the archives.

I got an email that said it was from Mark Langford's old email address that he 
has not used in a year and a half two days ago.

Fair warning, just because an email says it is from someone on this list 
doesn't mean it is safe or that it really came from that person.  Send the 
person an email to what you know is their correct address and see if they 
really sent you an attachment before you go and open it.

-- Original Message --
From: "Dene Collett \(SA\)" <>
Reply-To: KRnet 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date:  Mon, 3 May 2004 23:03:51 +0200

>To Brian  Kraut
>I received an e-mail from you (at least that is where it said it came from)
>with the subject line stating "valuable information " or something like
>that. Did it come from you or is it somethimg I should get rid of with its
>attachment A.S.A.P.
>I tried to send you a message privately but it was returned, sorry to the
>rest of you guys for using bandwidth for this.
>Thanks
>Dene Collett
>KR2S-RT builder
>Port Elizabeth
>South Africa
>mailto: dene.coll...@telkomsa.net
>P.S: checkout www.whisperaircraft.com
>
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Brian Kraut" 
>To: "KRnet" 
>Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 3:58 AM
>Subject: KR> RV grin
>
>
>> One thing I forgot on my Sun and Fun report.
>>
>> I took a demo ride in an RV-9 (no throwing rotten tomatoes at me please,
>it
>> was a free ride that I couldn't pass up).  It climbs like a homesick angel
>> and has great performance.  It is roomy and is whole lot more fun that any
>> Wichita spam can, but I have to say that the RV grin is not even in the
>same
>> league as the KR grin.  The KR beats it hands down by an order of
>magnitude
>> in the fun factor.
>>
>> In all fairness to Dana and the thousands of other RV owners, it is a
>great
>> plane and has the KR beat in some areas, but fun flying certainly is not
>one
>> of them.
>>
>> Brian Kraut
>> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
>> www.engalt.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
>
>
>___
>to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

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KR> Who has the Virus problem?

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I got one of those.  My company server has a firewall virus checker that nailed 
it.
Sid Wood
sidney.w...@titan.com


Beware of any e-mail with RE: Protected message as the subject line.

The message from spottedowl.biz...@spottedowl.biz has a virus and was not
sent from the spottedowl.biz domain.  Both PCs on that domain are running
Norton Antivirus set to scan all outgoing e-mail (and incoming) for viruses.

Norton AntiVirus removed the attachment: Readme.hta.
The attachment was infected with the W32.Beagle.W@mm virus.

The message headers refer to this IP address and network
[24.230.74.140] (helo=DJNVYL31.net)

--
wesley scott
k...@spottedowl.biz

KR> WAFs and Diehl gear for sale

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Brian,
The Diehl main gear set can be used either for conventional gear or nose gear 
installation by crossing diagonally on the main spar.  And if you are careful 
where you drill the holes in the brackets and spar, you can interchangeably 
convert from conventional to tri-gear and back without drilling extra holes in 
the spar.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com



I also have a set of Diehl gear for sale.  The set consists of the upper
casting, the gear leg, the lower brackets, and the bolt kit.  As when you
buy the set from Dan, it does not include the axles.  The legs are already
glassed and hae the straw for the brake line already done.  The glass work
is very good and will require very little finishing.  The set is for a tail
dragger, but I think they are the same as for a nose wheel, just mounted on
the other side of the spar.  Not 100% sure on this, but someone on the list
should know.  The legs are not drilled yet and the holes to mount the leg to
the upper casting are not drilled in the casting yet, so there is no worry
that there is any misalignment on this set.

Dan sells the set for $525 plus $15 for shipping.  I will sell them for $500
with shipping in the U.S. included.  The work that is done will save about
three hours.  I am selling the gear because I have ordered new leg blanks
that will not rake as far forward and I am welding up new brackets for more
prop clearance.

I also have the forward spar to sell.  The spar is drilled to match this
gear set.  I am fairly sure I can get the center section spar off the plane
without damage, but I am not sure on this yet.

Reply direct to me at br...@engalt.com or call my cell at 904-536-1780.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com


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KR> Sun-n-Fun 2004 KR Dinner Photo

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Thanks!  I posted that photo to http://www.krnet.org/misc/snf_kr_dinner_04.jpg 
, so if you want to, you can point it out to the KRnet crowd, along with a 
description or something.  A lot of familiar faces in that photo, and I do 
believe it's the first time we've ever gotten an actual photograph at one of 
these things!  I wish I could have made it.
Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

Mark,
Attached is a photo taken at the Sun n Fun 2004 KR-dinner hosted by Virg at 
Holiday Inn North.  Virg commandeered Brian Kraut's cell phone, called 
Jeannette Rand at home and we all took turns saying hello to her.  Six others 
left right after dinner and missed the photo, phone call and standup routines.  
Virg vowed this was his last Sun n Fun Dinner after 32 years and turned it all 
over to Brian Kraut for next year.
Regards,
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> engine choices

[Wood, Sidney M.]

www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/weights.htm has a list of engines with 
their horsepower and weight.

Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com



Without stirring up the debate on which engine is best for a KR, does anyone
know where I can find a relatively unbiased comparison and list pros and
cons for the various suitable KR engines including the VW, Corvair, Subaru,
and Mazda?

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

KR> gas canopy struts

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Try http://www.magusinc.com This company makes every and any thing you could 
ever need for a gas spring, including mounting brackets.  I used two for my 
forward hinged KR-2 canopy and they work great. Part number 752940, 22.5 lbs, 
9.84 in stroke, 23.03 extended.  $42.22 each.  Mounting hardware Part number 
SL-46P3-1, $5.18 each, I used 4 brackets.

Sid Wood KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com



Some time ago there was lots of information on the best canopy struts on 
the net. Of course I wasn't going to use them, so I made the mistake of 
ignoring the valuable information. Now I need some kind sole to make up for 
my deficiency by repeating the information of type and best places to get 
them.

Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com 

KR> gas canopy struts

[Wood, Sidney M.]

www.magnusinc.com/ is a better address.

Sid

 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Wood, Sidney M.
Sent:   Wednesday, April 28, 2004 7:53 AM
To: KRnet
Subject:RE: KR> gas canopy struts

Try http://www.magusinc.com This company makes every and any thing you could 
ever need for a gas spring, including mounting brackets.  I used two for my 
forward hinged KR-2 canopy and they work great. Part number 752940, 22.5 lbs, 
9.84 in stroke, 23.03 extended.  $42.22 each.  Mounting hardware Part number 
SL-46P3-1, $5.18 each, I used 4 brackets.

Sid Wood KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com



Some time ago there was lots of information on the best canopy struts on 
the net. Of course I wasn't going to use them, so I made the mistake of 
ignoring the valuable information. Now I need some kind sole to make up for 
my deficiency by repeating the information of type and best places to get 
them.

Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com 

KR> gas canopy struts

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I've been there and done that.  Auto Zone has not a clue what the spring force 
is for any of their struts.  They sell them as replacements for your particular 
make and model automobile.  You can buy a lot of struts trying to find the 
right one for your KR application.  Making a few measurements and doing a very 
little math can be a lot cheaper than hit or miss hunting in an auto parts 
store.  I calculated that I needed two gas springs at  20 lb each.  At my local 
auto parts store they let me measure the forces of all their gas springs with 
my bathroom scales.  The lightest force gas spring, that they had, was 60 lb 
with a 16 in extension; no joy there.  True, the auto parts store prices were 
half what Magnus charged, but if it is not what you need, it's not much of a 
bargain.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com



You can get 'em at Auto Zone, probably cheaper there too.

http://community.webtv.net/paulwasp/paulwaspspad

KR> SNF Pics

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Dean,
The 4th KR was parked next to Steve Jones tri-gear, but he left about five 
minutes after we got there on Friday.
Bernie Wunder and I searched for you and Brian at Margaritaville Saturday 
evening also with no luck.. what a mob scene.  Must have been the bar drawing 
'em in.  We finally went down the road a couple hundred yards and got some BBQ 
pork ribs at Johnson's BBQ.  That was some kinda good.  The night time air show 
with fireworks was impressive.
Steve Bennett put on a VW assembly forum every day.  In two hours he built up a 
1.6 L VW explaining everything, hard lessons learned, etc., step by step.  That 
was worth the whole trip by itself.

Sid Wood
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net 
[mailto:krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net]  On Behalf Of Dean Cooper
Sent:   Sunday, April 18, 2004 5:24 PM
To: KRnet
Subject:KR> SNF Pics

Netters,

We had 4 KR's show up at SNF this year.  I took pics of the 3 that I saw (I 
heard there was a 4th, but, it left before I could see it) and posted them here:

http://www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/2004_SunNFun1.html

Steve Jones' tri-gear was being photographed for Sport Aviation.  It would be 
great if we could get the visibility on our plane!  As Brian mentioned earlier, 
Dinner Friday night was great.  Thanks to Virg for hosting.  This trip has 
gotten me motivated and looking forward to the gathering in Mt. Vernon.


Mark L / Dana O - Brian and I looked for you at Margaritaville last night with 
no luck...  

Dean Cooper
Jacksonville, FL
Email me at dean_coo...@bellsouth.net
See my KR project at www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/KR2_Home.html
___
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please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Sandpaper in lengths

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Aircraft Spruce sells self-stick sandpaper in 3-inch by 15 foot rolls in 
silicon carbide or garnet in three grits for about $8 a roll.  I am continually 
amazed that people persist in attempting to build a plans-built experimental 
aircraft and not refer to Wicks or Aircraft Spruce catalogs.  I know, these 
companies don't carry everything, but they are getting close to all you need.
Sid Wood
KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Mark Jones
Sent:   Thursday, April 08, 2004 7:53 PM
To: KRnet
Subject:Re: KR> Sandpaper in lengths

There is an ACE Hardware close to me which is like a super store. They have
15' (if I remember correctly) long rolls by 4" wide which is self sticking.
I could not believe it when I found this since I had been looking for some
time for some. I will be purchasing some this week in order to sand my
wings. I think it was about $18 for the roll.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html


- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Stone" 
To: "KR builders and pilots" 
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 6:20 PM
Subject: KR> Sandpaper in lengths


>  Builders, one of the problems I encountered while building was where
to get sandpaper in long strips to put on a long board for sanding the foam
on wings mostly.  I have never seen long strips of it in any of the hardware
outlets in my area, however I just recrived a catalog from a company that
sells sandpaper in almost every configuration there is, including long
strips.  They say on the front of their catalog, they ship on the same day
they get the order providing they get it before 12:00 Noon.  I hope this
information will be of help to some of you.
>
>  A & H Abrasives
>  1108 North Glenn Road
>  Casper, Wyoming, 82601
>  Phone: 1-800-831-6066
> FAX:  1-307-237-4122
>
> Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
> rsto...@hot.rr.com

KR> Engine Bearing

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The pro drag racers use aluminum connecting rods to steel crank shaft, no 
bearing inserts.  These engines generate about 3,000 hp for 5 seconds or so.  
Then it's do a re-build for the next run.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Ron Eason
Sent:   Monday, April 05, 2004 11:29 AM
To: KRnet
Subject:Re: KR> Engine Bearing

I suspect that B/S is using new technology of bonding nickel/silicate or
something like that to the journals for bearings.  I have a set of Nickel
cylinders and its hard to identify the difference between aluminum and
nickel.
The surface is a little grayer.

KRron

- Original Message - 
From: "Phil Matheson" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 4:26 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Engine Bearing


> Open up one of the larger Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engines and you'll
> see that they have now opted for NO bearings whatsoever, just aluminum
rods
> -
>
>
> I would call this a throw away engine. Not something that is flying you
> around.
>
>
> Phil Matheson
> mathe...@dodo.com.au
> VH-PKR ( reserved)
> 61 3 58833588
>
> See our VW Engines and Home built web page at
> http://www.vw-engines.com/
> www.homebuilt-aviation.com/

KR> AN Bolt strengths

[Wood, Sidney M.]

My reference says AN bolts (all sizes) are either type 4037 or 8740 alloy steel 
(type 8740 is most commonly used), minimum tensile strength 125,000 PSI.  The 
FAA Handbook AC 43.13-1B Chapter 7 indicates a maximum loading of 40,000 PSI 
when proper recommended nut torque is applied.  AC 43,13-1B can be down loaded 
in pdf format from 
www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf  
which may take a while since this handbook has lots of charts and 
illustrations.  
Now for the soapbox: If you are not following the recommendations of AC 
43.13-1B or similar document, you will indeed have an 'amateur-built' aircraft.
Sid Wood
KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com


 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Eric Evezard
Sent:   Wednesday, March 31, 2004 12:57 PM
To: KR NEWS
Subject:KR> AN Bolt strengths

Hi Netters, What is the American method of expressing AN bolt strengths ?eg. 
Tensile Str.,Yield Str.,Single Shear. I have figures for all sizes but am not 
positive how to interpolate them.
Best Regards,
Eric Evezard,
South Africa
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KR> T5 aluminum

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The Aircraft Spruce & Specialty catalog has three pages of definitions and 
characteristics for aluminum alloy.  More than you will ever need to know for 
building a KR 
Aircraft.  If all else fails, read the directions (in the plans).
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com

 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Ray Fuenzalida
Sent:   Friday, April 02, 2004 2:26 PM
To: KRnet
Subject:Re: KR> T5 aluminum

Question for the group.  What about marine grade aluminum?  I have a friend in 
the aluminum boat building business.  I can get virtually any 
size/configuration metal from him.  Is it acceptable?  How is T-5 or T-6 
different?  Are we just talking thicknesses?  Some kind of core inner strength?
Ray
A long **^&%$^*& way from being finished.

Mark Langford  wrote:
Steven Phillabaum wrote:

> On the aluminum list posted I stated T-5 for hinge and horns. Wicks and
ACS does not carry them. My father gave me a name of a supplier.( can't
locate name at this time) I called and spoke to him. He does not have T5.
OK what to do? MARK, what did you use if you did not find T5. I will need
to make the horns but using Dr. Deans method of hinges.<

Just use T-6, it's stronger anyway. Not sure why anybody would specify T5,
when T6 is more plentiful and stronger in utimate and yield anyway. Are you
sure you're not thinking of T651? That's pretty much the same thing as T6,
as I recall. I used T6, and most other folks probably did too, whether they
knew it or not.

Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

KR> Staple Size

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The best size for staples is none; don't put them in so you don't need to pull 
them out and have to patch those thousands of holes.  Make a half-inch plywood 
sheet a little bigger than the boat sides.  Put the 3/32-plywood flat on the 
table and an inch larger than needed.  Lay the 'ladder' on the 3/32 plywood and 
mark where all the 5/8 sticks will be.  Apply epoxy to the marked areas and to 
the 5/8 spruce 'ladder'.  Put the 'ladder' back on the 3/32-plywood.  Nail a 
few small blocks at the ends of the ladder and through the 3/32 to keep things 
from squirming around.  Be sure to put plastic sheet or wax paper under the 
wood blocks so they won't stick to the 'ladder'. Put a sheet of plastic over 
the 'ladder' followed by the half-inch plywood.  Pile cinder blocks, bricks, 
sand bags, water jugs or what have you to press down tight; about 800 pounds 
total of cinder blocks worked great for me.  Let cure a day or two, then remove 
the weights and trim the 3/32 plywood with a router.  That's one boat side.  
When you do the other side, do remember: You want one left side and one right 
side.  (Yeah, been there, done that.)
For the bottom skin, assemble the boat sides, firewall frame and cross-members 
with epoxy per the plans.  Trim the longerons flat with the cross-member per 
the plans.  Before putting the skin on, brace the 5/8's cross-members with 
2X4's to support the weights you will be piling on top.  Be sure to put a sheet 
of plastic between the 5/8 spruce and the bracing.  Epoxy will drool down and 
could easily attach your boat to the bracing.  Clamps at the fire wall end will 
keep the 3/32-plywood from squirming around.  Put 4-inch wide strips of 1/2 
inch plywood on top of the 3/32- plywood at each of the cross-members, then add 
weights.  Do not put weights on the unsupported 3/32-plywood.
You can use the same technique for the spars also.

Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com

 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]  On Behalf 
Of Stowers
Sent:   Monday, March 29, 2004 9:42 PM
To: krnet
Subject:KR> Staple  Size

What is the best size staples to use to skin the boat?

Jerry Stowers
Duncan, Ok.
www.angelfire.com/ok5/kr2s
flynredn...@hotmail.com
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KR>epoxy resin

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Lee,
I have used Aeropoxy and West System epoxy.  I have found no difference in 
their characteristics.  That does not mean there may be chemical differences, 
but I don't know this.  West System does have the fast and slow hardeners, and 
a very useful pump system (about $10.00 for a set).  By using the West System 
pumps for their resin and hardener, you don't have to weigh them out to get the 
proper ratio.  I also use the West System pumps to dispense other epoxy resins 
and vinyl ester resin.  I pump these into the mixing cup on an electronic 
scale, since the pump calibration for volume would not be valid.  For the 
SportAir composites work shops offered by EAA, we also use the West System 
pumps to dispense all manner of resins with minimal drips and slop.  When you 
have ten or fifteen students doing epoxy work at the same time, fast and 
efficient dispensing really is nice.  In my home shop I have 7 sets of these 
pumps, each dedicated to a particular resin system.  One of the convenient 
factors with the West System is I can buy this at West Marine and True Value 
hardware stores and don't need to pay shipping.  I get other supplies from 
Aircraft Spruce; they ship UPS ground and I get it 5 days after placing the 
order.  AS has not missed one of my orders in the 18 years I have been dealing 
with them.

Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD 
sidney.w...@titan.com


-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 7:19 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR>epoxy resin


Lee Van Dyke wrote:

>>  I am fiberglassing my new Elevator and I would like to find out which
combination of Resin will give me the hardest/  most rigid result. ? <<

My personal favorite for laminating is Aeropoxy 3660/2032.  I've tried
several and it's one that I've had no allergic reaction to for over 8 years.
Some others like West too, but I'm not sure if they've tried Aeropoxy.
Maybe somebody that's tried both will chime in.

Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
N56ML at hiwaay.net
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

KR>fuel vent

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Dene,
My understanding is that a gauge of some sort is required for each fuel tank.  
This could be a sight gauge or electric or mechanical.  Tanks could share one 
switched indicator, just so the pilot can determine how much fuel is actually 
onboard.
Regards,
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com

-Original Message-

selector valve that can supply the motor from the header (normal) or
directly from the wing tanks (transfer pump failure). 6: sight guage on
header tank only, no plan for guages in wing tanks yet.
Thanks again.
Dene Collett
KR2S-RT builder
Port Elizabeth
South Africa
mailto: dene.coll...@telkomsa.net
P.S: checkout www.whisperaircraft.com

KR>KR-2 Engine Choices

[Wood, Sidney M.]

KRnetters,
I appreciate all your inputs, on and off-line.  Some folks are not English 
majors nor diplomats, but I do understand what you are telling me.
I have also consulted with two aeronautical engineers this past weekend. I have 
concluded:   

My first question: Is an extra 25 hp worth an extra $9,000?
An extra 25 hp, all other things considered equal, will result in a 10 percent 
speed increase.  If I get 150 MPH with 75 hp, then I would get 165 MPH with 100 
hp. Perhaps to some (or many) that is quite desirable, especially if money is 
no object.  But then why are you building a KR aircraft?  I want to build an 
economical performance airplane.  I am not inclined to build my own engine.  
So, for me the answer is no.

Second: Is an estimated extra 91 pounds empty weight on a KR-2 realistic?  
About 90 percent of this will be forward of the main spar and ahead of the 
firewall.
My engineer friends estimate the gross weight will be 1050 pounds instead of 
950 pounds.  My KR-2 would have the CG at 0.2 inches ahead of the max forward 
CG from the plans at gross and 1.0 inch forward of max forward CG at VFR 
minimum fuel with just myself on board, no baggage.  That was deemed flyable, 
but definitely not recommended.  So, that answer is no.

Third: How will the taller gear effect ground handling and flight 
characteristics?  
There would most likely be no discernable change in ground handling or flight 
characteristics with the taller gear.  There was lots of concern for loading on 
the spar at the gear attach points due to increased strain from the longer gear 
legs especially during hard landings.  Dan Diehl did recommend that I not use 
his aluminum castings with longer gear legs.

The RG TT 2000 EFI is a wonderful engine development with the technology that I 
want.  However, it is just not suitable for me and my KR-2.  Others may find 
just the opposite for their aircraft, and I applaud them for their choice.  I 
am opting for a direct-drive 2180 VW and standard Diehl tri-gear.

Regards,
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD sidney.w...@titan.com

KR>Cheap spring clamps

[Wood, Sidney M.]

www.harborfreight.com has 131 clamp listings.

Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
sidney.w...@titan.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Stephen Jacobs
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 6:03 AM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: RE: KR>Cheap spring clamps


>You take some 3" or 4" PVC and cut it into about 1.5" to 2" stips,
then cut a slit into it


I think this is a brilliant idea - solves a wide range of struggles for
me - many thanks.


>>>I know a cheaper way. It is called Harbor Freight. 

Harbor Freight??  Please explain this to the lost African soul (A soul;
Ah soul??)

Steve

KR>Haven't lost the touch!!

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Dana,
Beautiful lay-up workmanship on the panel.  Curious, why do you have two 
airspeed and two altitude indicators?
Regards,
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Dana
Overall
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 6:53 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR>Haven't lost the touch!!


OK, it's Friday and I've kept my mouth shut for the last couple weeks 
but.

I laid this up yesterday as a test piece for my panel.  I "ain't" going with 
the stock alum panel (a whole $33 from Van's).  Since my airplane is Imron 
Black, I had to do something with the panel.
Still got the touch!!

http://rvflying.tripod.com/carbonpanel.jpg



Dana Overall
1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive

KR>How long

[Wood, Sidney M.]

I have 1864 hours direct labor spread over 18 years and am 60 to 70 percent 
done.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com


-Original Message-
From: krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Dennis
Dyer
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:49 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: KR>How long


Hi Netters,

I was recently asked how long it would take to build a KR..I said I'd post on 
the KR Net to get an idea of the average builders hours. Can you help me answer 
this question?

Thanks,

Dennis Dyer
13035 US Hwy 285
Pine, CO 80470




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KR>KR-2 Engine Choices

[Wood, Sidney M.]

KRnetters,
I am building a KR-2, converted to tri-gear from retract conventional gear.  
Dan Diehl gear legs are installed.  It is time for an engine.  My first choice 
was a 75 hp 2180 vw direct drive with electronic ignition from Steve Bennett.  
Full-up price ready to bolt on, including freight and wood prop is about 
$7,000.  Then I came across www.vw-engines.com that were offering three sizes 
of vw with fuel injection.  What looked about right for my KR-2 was a 2000 cc 
100+ hp model RG 2000 with a geared redrive, fuel injection and electronic 
ignition.  This engine is based on a type 4 Porsche engine.  The weight with 
all accessories less a wood prop is 221 lbs.  To effectively use this 100+ hp I 
will need a 58 inch diameter by 60 inch pitch prop.  That means I need to raise 
the standing height another 3 inches for proper ground clearance.  That means I 
need to replace the Diehl gear with longer gear from www.vw-engines.com .  Also 
I must use a new bed-mount for the new nose gear and redrive engine, rebuild 
the fuel system to accommodate low pressure and high pressure fuel pumps, an 
anti-surge tank, tank selector to route return fuel to the wing tank being 
used, and possibly another fuel gauge for the anti-surge tank.  The cowl will 
require several bumps for the fuel rails.  The price quote from Australia is 
$13,980 US plus freight and customs to add about $700.  Another $2,000 is 
estimated to do the airframe mods.

My first question: Is an extra 25 hp worth an extra $9,000?
Second: Is an estimated extra 91 pounds empty weight on a KR-2 realistic?  
About 90 percent of this will be forward of the main spar and ahead of the 
firewall.
Third: How will the taller gear effect ground handling and flight 
characteristics?

I would appreciate your help on this engine choice matter.
Regards,
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD sidney.w...@titan.com

KR>KR - Larry's Lady reply (even longer )

[Wood, Sidney M.]

For fuel injected VW's check out www.vw-engines.com
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com

The rationale behind the engine thing is that I am hooked on GAMI
nozzles, I had them in my PA32 and want them in any airplane I ever own.
The choice of engine is thus the smallest aircraft engine that is fuel
injected - no other reason.
Steve J



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KR>4x2x1/8 aluminum extrusion

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Larry, 
Try bolting a 2x2x1/8 aluminum angle to a 2x4x1/8 sheet with (4) AN3 bolts 
through the aileron spar.  Be sure to use big fender washers so you don't crush 
the lumber.  The bolts at the top nearest the hinge can use the hinge as a 
washer.  Run some epoxy through the lumber holes using a pipe cleaner to seal 
the lumber against dry rot.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD sidney.w...@titan.com


-Original Message-
From: krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+smwood=titan@mylist.net]On Behalf Of larry
severson
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 12:14 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: KR>4x2x1/8 aluminum extrusion


Where can I get the extrusion needed for the aileron hinge? AS does not 
carry it.



Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com 


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KR>Pushtubes/weight

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Larry,
I weighed the aircraft with the cable system installed using a bathroom scale.  
After the remove and replace for the pushrod system, weighed again with the 
same bathroom scale.  Granted that may have some errors due to internal 
repeatability and accuracy, plus my ability to block up the wheels properly, 
etc.  I also weighed all the stuff removed and all the stuff installed 
including mounting brackets, bolts, pulleys, cable shackles, cables, 
turnbuckles, pushrods, rod ends, etc.  The difference was still just about 6 
pounds less.  I had expected some weight gain.  My object was not for weight 
reduction.  I am looking for long-term reliability and functionality.  I had 
installed a flaperon system also, but took that out.  That got to complicated.  
I am staying with the pushrods for elevator and ailerons.  I have since added 
another 4.5 pounds for elevator balancing, which includes 2.6 pounds of lead.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville MD sidney.w...@titan.com


-Original Message- 
From: larry flesner [mailto:fles...@midwest.net] 
>One (of the three) pushtubes for the elevator in my KR-2 is 63 inches 
long
by 1 1/4 diameter by .125 wall.  It seems heavy and overdone, but... 
+

Sid,

How did you measure the 6 pounds saved?  Several components
stay in the system , pushrods or cable.

It seems to me that if you removed all the cable in the system and
replaced it with nothing you'd have trouble dropping 6 pounds.

I'm not questioning your honesty here, just your scales. :-)

Larry Flesner
Carterville, Illinois



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KR>Control tubes

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Steve,
I put a complete cable control system in my KR-2 per the RR plans.  I did not 
like the plain bolt hinges at the aft spar bell cranks, so I put in aeliron 
bearing hinges.  The right-angle brackets at the aft and forward spars were 
sort of wimpy, but were okay for the 40 lb-tension cable system.  RR offered a 
push rod for the elevator connection under the seat; I put that in and it was 
off to the races.  I took out all the cables, pulleys and attach brackets.  I 
bent 6061 sheet to form triangular attach brackets, made 90-degree bell cranks 
with aeliron bearings for the forward spar, a counter-weight bell crank idler 
to balance the elevator, and six additional control tubes.  I retained the 
original center control stick and rudder cables.  N6242 shed 6 lbs in the 
process, mostly substituting aluminum for five brass turnbuckles, safety wire, 
associated hardware plus steel cables. 
I don't have a website to show you pictures, but I would be glad to discuss it 
off-line.  Don't have any flight results yet, maybe in a year or so.  Were I to 
do that again, I would put the forward spar bellcranks inboard under the seat 
and run the control tube diagonally through the stub wing to the aft spar 
bellcrank mounted on the front of the aft spar.  The 90-degree bellcranks would 
need modification to account for the diagonal control tube angle through the 
stub wing.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
sidney.w...@titan.com


-Original Message- 
Any one got a web page out there on a design of using tubes instead of 
the cable system?

Steve McGee
Endeavor Wi. USA
Building a KR2S widened.
lmc...@maqs.net


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KR>Bowden cables

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Peter,
Sounds good for another simplification to get in the air quicker.  The Lancair 
320/360's use these cables for rudder control.  You may still need the 
bellcranks mounted at the aft spar to get the proper 10 degrees up - 20 degrees 
down differential movement for the aelirons.
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com

-Original Message- 
Hi Russ.

I'm going to use Teleflex, or Morse cables for the elevator and aileron
controls on my aircraft.  I'm in Kenora, Ontario and here on Lake of the
Woods we've had experience with the 'push-pull' cables for years in the
marine industry.  When installed properly they are a maintenance free 
item.

The one issue that I am going to look into for my own curiosity is the
weight difference between a Morse cable and a
pushrod/bellcrank/pushrodorcable/bellcrank assembly.  IMO the 
difference is
going to be neglibible and quite acceptable for the speed and ease of
installation of the Teleflex or Morse cables.

Dial into the net and look for 'Teleflex' or 'Morse' Controls and you 
will
find the technical info.  I think it's the 44C cable that I will be 
using.
It has the 1/4" diameter ends with the bulkhead fittings.

Hope this helps Russ.

Peter Johnson
KR-2S stretched, widened, deepened with a Corvair

mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca
- Original Message -
>
> Is anyone out thee using Bowden cables for their control linkages? If
> so, are their pictures of "how to" on the net?  It seems like it would
> be a lot less complicated, but would like to know if someone has tried
> it and it didn't work.
> Thanks Russ Breckenridge,mn
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KR>Control tubes

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Rick,
Do you use a bell crank attached to the aft spar?  How do you keep the elevator 
movement at the stick from coupling to the ailerons?
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD
sidney.w...@titan.com

-Original Message- 
From: Rick Wilson [mailto:rwdw2...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Mon 1/5/2004 12:09 PM 
To: KRnet 
Cc: 
Subject: RE: KR>Control tubes



Sidney, My KR2... It has aluminum
push-pull tubes to the ailerons, works very well. I'll
try and get some pictures in the next few days if
anyone would like to see them. Rick Wilson.
--- "Wood, Sidney M." <smw...@titan.com> wrote:
> Steve,
> > >  The 90-degree bellcranks would need
> modification to account for the diagonal control
> tube angle through the stub wing.
> Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
> sidney.w...@titan.com
> 
>
>   -Original Message-
>   Any one got a web page out there on a design of
> using tubes instead of the cable system?
>  
>   Steve McGee
>   Endeavor Wi. USA
>   Building a KR2S widened.
>   lmc...@maqs.net
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>
Rick Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama KR2-0200A -99% rwdw2...@yahoo.com




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KR>Pushtubes

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Netters,
One (of the three) pushtubes for the elevator in my KR-2 is 63 inches long by 1 
1/4 diameter by .125 wall.  It seems heavy and overdone, but my KR-2 shed 6 
pounds in the process of removing the cable system and replacing with pushrods 
for the ailerons and elevator.  Virtue and peace of mind are their own rewards.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD sidney.w...@titan.com


-Original Message- 
From: Colin & Bev Rainey [mailto:crain...@cfl.rr.com] 
Netters,
Just remember if you desire to make a long run of the pushtube as I 
did, you have to increase the diameter of the tube relative to the length. In 
other words the longer the bigger.  I believe Dana in his RV has one that is 
thin wall 1 1/2" T6 aluminum, to go a distance of some 6-7' .  My friend Bill 
who has a Thorp T-18 has almost the same length run and uses the same diameter. 
He is a mechanical engineer and told me that runs over 4 feet have to be twice 
as strong in compression (the pushing part) as it does shorter than that.  My 
tube is 1" thick walled T6, with an interior piece of 5/8" that was the 
original tube before I found out about the compression issue.  Dana has a list 
of parts he used to assemble his and I am sure if you write him he would send 
you a copy of that list.  I prefer the pushtube for the elevator control, 
because there is alot more solid feel to it, and that is re-assuring to me, 
considering that I can make up for the failure of one of either of the other 
controls, but pitch is next to impossible to have a back-up plan for unless 
your KR is equipped with elevator trim.  
Colin & Bev Rainey


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KR>I would trailer the KR home!

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Tom,
About 15 years ago Jeannette Rand and I did an investigation regarding a 
retract-gear KR-2 that had been trailered from the Seattle area to Alaska on 
the ALCAN highway by the buyer.  The previous owner had checked out the new 
owner during several left-seat flights at Seattle.  An independent A had 
checked the aircraft on a pre-sale inspection - no gripes. 
The new owner had removed and securely crated the wings.  The box was strapped 
on the trailer.  No problem with that.  The fuselage on the gear was placed on 
the flat bed trailer and secured with 2-inch nylon cargo ratchets running over 
a single 3/8 inch bolt at the stub wing attach brackets on each side.  The tail 
wheel was secured at the spring with another 2-inch cargo ratchet wrapped 
around the spring.  The new owner stated that the landing gear was deflected 
"one or two inches" and felt that was firm enough to prevent shifting.  After 
arriving with the KR-2 on the trailer at home in Alaska, several cracks were 
noticed on the exterior skin at the lower left firewall.  Closer inspection 
revealed cracks all around the plywood fire wall.  The VW engine, prop, mount 
and firewall were making early preparations to depart the aircraft as a unit.  
So what caused this sad situation?
The problem with the rig was: A 600 pound KR-2 was hard mounted at the main 
spar on a tandem-axel flat bed trailer rated for 6,000 pounds.  Then it was run 
over hundreds of miles of gravel roads through Canada and Alaska at about 60 
mph.  The stiff trailer springs and its rock-hard tires had put who knows how 
many hard landings on that defenseless KR-2.
Moral of the story: If you are going to trailer your KR, let the little Lamb 
tires and spring gear do their job.  Secure the fully inflated KR tires with 
the right sized tire straps.  Use a light weight trailer appropriate for the 
job.  No one needs to set land speed records with a KR.
Regards,
Sid Wood KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD sidney.w...@titan.com

-Original Message- 


One thing I do want to make clear is that it was never MY
intention to fly one of these birds to Alaska. I was thinking
about professional pilots who fly cross country all the time
who would fly the KR to its new home. I guess even pros would
trailer the plane home.

Since towing by trailer is the way to go, how difficult is it
to take the wings off and put them back on again? Does this
damage the plane in any way?



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KR>TurtleDeck Weight Question

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Scott,
I have a RR turtle deck. I will weigh it tonight and get back with you tomorrow.
Sid Wood KR-2 N6242
smw...@titan.com

Netters:
Does anyone have a weight of a Rand Robinson or other
Turtledeck and could weigh it?


=
Scott Cable
KR-2S # 735
Wright City, MO
s2cab...@yahoo.com

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KR>Removing Adhesive Residue From Fiberglass And From Plywood

[Wood, Sidney M.]

Rick,
My Diehl wing skins are vinyl ester.  I used a product called OOPS.  You can 
find it at hardware and paint stores.  OOPS is made to remove dried paint, but 
the can says it can be used on fiberglass.  Use gloves to protect your hands.  
Dampen a paper towel with the OOPS and just wipe the old duct tape residue 
right off.  To hedge my bet, I wiped the bond surface with acetone before 
glueing with vinyl ester resin.  Works just fine for me.  Don't know about 
cleaning the plywood.
Sid Wood KR-2 N6242
smw...@titan.com


-Original Message- 
From: rick...@comcast.net [mailto:rick...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Tue 12/9/2003 11:14 PM 
To: kr...@mylist.net 
Cc: 
Subject: KR>Removing Adhesive Residue From Fiberglass And From Plywood



My Diehl wing skins have some very old duct tape adhesive residue on 
them. There is also some on various plywood surfaces.

I checked the archives on this but couldn?t find a definitive ?I know 
this is safe because I?ve done it? kind of post.

Any suggestions for safe ways to remove adhesive residue from 
fiberglass -- and from plywood?

Rick Coykendall
Recently Purchased a KR-2 Project
rick...@comcast.net 

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