[lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress

2014-04-30 Thread Catherine Barley
Dear Spiders

Thank you all so much for your quick and highly informative replies to my
query about Queen Victoria's dress.  I shall send a polite/educational email
to the company in question, quoting snippets from information received.  Also
I shall tell them that even Kate Middleton's wedding dress was made of machine
made lace and not handmade and pass on the link that Brenda sent me.

I think we can close the book on this one now but thank you all very much.
I'm off to Waddesdon Manor in Buckinghamshire today to see the 'Lace 21'
exhibition.

Catherine Barley
Henley-on-Thames
UK

Catherine Barley Needlelace
www.catherinebarley.com

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Re: [lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lace?

2014-04-29 Thread Linda Walton

Several images of paintings and engravings as well as information here:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Queen_Victoria

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Re: [lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lacce?

2014-04-29 Thread Brenda Paternoster
I can’t remember the source but I was of the impression that the lace was 
ordered in several batches, originally as coronation lace and then for the 
wedding dress etc.

H J Yallop says
“Equal obscurity surrounds the question of the number of lacemakers involved.  
A newspaper report (Besley’s Devonshire Chronical & Exeter News, 18 Feb 1840) 
states that the lace was made at Beer and that more than 200 persons were 
employed on it, and another report  (Woolmer’s Exeter and Plymouth Gazette, 15 
Feb 1840) states that about 150 of those partook of a celebration tea at the 
New Inn.  However, the census of 1841 shows that the total number of lacemakers 
in Beer at the time was only 79 so it is evident that only part of the work 
could have been done there and that workers were drawn in from further afield.  
There were none in Seaton but there were 123 in Branscombe, so Beer and 
Branscombe together could have provided the necessary workforce…..”

Yallop also wrote:
“An apparent inconsistency in the payments to Miss Bidney is the absence of the 
£1000 alleged (Besley’s Devonshire Chronical & Exeter News, 18 Feb 1840) to 
have been the cost of the lace for Queen Victoria’s wedding dress.  However the 
sum of £250 appears in the account for th equator ended 31 March 1840 and this 
sum would seem to represent the payment to her for this work.  An estimate of 
the cost of producing this lace using reasonable assumptions as to working rate 
and average wages together with the known size of the lace would have been a 
plausible payment, so the £1000 may probably be dismissed as journalistic 
licence, which has, unfortunately, frequently been repeated imprint ever since.”

Brenda
who isn’t interested in producing 'meters' of all over lace!


On 29 Apr 2014, at 18:29, Catherine Barley  
wrote:

> Can of you please let me know how many lacemakers and how many months it took
> them to make the lace for Queen Victoria's wedding dress.

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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Re: [lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lacce?

2014-04-29 Thread Brenda Paternoster
At one time I believe the price of a piece of lace was determined by the number 
of old shilling coins it required to completely cover the lace.  Fast forward 
in time and work out how many credit cards would be needed to cover the lace 
and reckon £20 per card - more for very fine lace such as Honiton.

Brenda

On 29 Apr 2014, at 19:37, laceandb...@aol.com wrote:

> When I get similar questions sent to me via The Lace Guild, after I have 
> explained about the level of skill needed therefore the cost per hour, and 
> the 
> number of hours it would take to make even a small piece of lace,

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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Re: [lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lace?

2014-04-29 Thread Jeriames
Dear Catherine,
 
The May/June issue of PieceWork magazine has been delivered in  America.  I 
was surprised to see an article "Victoria's Passion - Queen  Victoria's 
Unremitting Love of All Things Lace".  There were things I had  never known.  
Christopher John Brooke Phillips, the author (born in  England, now in 
Spain), has used records that most English lace experts have  never shared in 
their books.  
 
It says the Spitalfields silk dress was designed by Mary Bellans (the  
greatly-respected English historian, Kay Staniland, spells this Bettans -  and 
calls her a dressmaker) and the lace was designed by William Dyce,  Fellow of 
the Royal Society of Edinburgh, a member of the Royal Society of Arts  and 
the Royal Academy of Arts, and head of the Government School of Design  
(later the Royal College of Art, London).
 
He says it was to have been supplied from Brussels, but Victoria specified  
that it be manufactured in Great Britain and that it be Honiton lace.  He  
goes on to say it was manufactured in several villages within a 40-mile 
radius  of Honiton.  
 
It says the veil, 54 inches square, and the flounce 144 inches by 27  
inches, were made in Branscombe and Beer, engaging 200 lace makers from March 
to  
November 1839.  The Queen's representative, Miss Bidney, supervised and  
ensured timely completion, after which the designs were destroyed.  He  claims 
today the cost of the lace would exceed $1-million American  dollars.  He 
also says the Queen instructed that after death she be  interred with her 
wedding veil draped around her face.
 
So, here you have a most recent account.  It does not include a  
Bibliography.  People like Santina Levey, Kay Staniland and Elsie  Luxton have 
written 
informed books about Queen Victoria's lace.
 
In "Queen Victoria's Wedding Dress and Lace" by Staniland/Levey, 32 pages  
extracted from another publication "Costume" dated 1983, they give the  
depth of the flounce as 25 1/2 inches.  They write about 4 pieces of lace  
still 
on the dress -- the flounce, bertha collar, and 2 sleeve flounces.   These 
lace experts also say 200 lacemakers from March to November, but only  at 
Beers.  Their text quoted a newspaper of the time that "Her Majesty,  with 
regard to whose dress so much and so many contradictions have taken place,  was 
attired plainly, and with simple magnificence, in white satin, trimmed with 
 most splendid laceround her head her Majesty wore a wreath of orange  
blossoms; but, contrary to all expectation, and in opposition to all 
prediction,  neither veil nor scarf was permitted to interfere with the free 
sight 
of her  Majesty's head, face, and neck".
 
It was these two lace experts who first uncovered the name of the  wedding 
lace designer, William Dyce,  while writing this  booklet.  They found it in 
1852 correspondence between Dyce and Sir  Henry Cole (our old friend, the 
first director of the V&A  Museum). 
 
A very large group painting, "The Marriage of Queen Victoria, 10 February  
1840" by Sir George Hayter, a clear view of the Queen's face.  There  
appears to be a veil attached at the back of her head.  You can G**gle  the 
artist's name to see it.
 
A 1847 painting by Winterhalter, shows the Queen, and she wrote about the  
sitting.  "I wearing my dear wedding veil",  It is attached at the  very 
back of her head, and there is a wreath of orange blossoms arranged like a  
crown - the same as at her wedding 7 years before.
 
I favor the 1997 Museum of London book "In Royal Fashion - the Clothes  of 
Princess Charlotte of Wales and Queen Victoria 1796-1901", by Kay  
Staniland.  It has many photographs of actual clothing and the best-known  
portraits.
 
There is also a 1988 book of good research, by Elsie Luxton and Yusai  
Fukuyama "Royal Honiton Lace".  Luxton was the well-known lace  expert with at 
least 6 Honiton books to her credit.
 
I have seen these Royal laces more than once, and written about  them to 
Arachne several times.  Newbies may be able to find those  other memos in 
Arachne archives.  The last time I saw the gown at  Kensington Palace, the 
flounce had been removed - too fragile to continue to be  exhibited.   They had 
put some disgusting net (modern scratchy kind)  on the mannequin's head, 
which was confusing to non-lace people trying to  relate to the concept of a 
Queen and Empress!  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lacce?

2014-04-29 Thread Laceandbits
When I get similar questions sent to me via The Lace Guild, after I have 
explained about the level of skill needed therefore the cost per hour, and the 
number of hours it would take to make even a small piece of lace, I usually 
give them a link to the Cluny Lace Company in Derbyshire  
http://www.clunylace.com/index.htm  

At least that way we might keep them in the UK economy.  A mention that 
some of this lace was used for the royal wedding dress probably makes it up 
market enough to please their egos.

Jacquie in Lincolnshire

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Re: [lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lacce?

2014-04-29 Thread Lyn Bailey
I vote for 600 lacemakers and 9 months, but that's just a guess.  I went 
online and found this quote:  he English Honiton lace trim was made in Devon 
by more than 200 lace workers and  took eight months to complete. 
http://theroyalpost.com/2011/11/22/queen-victorias-wedding-dress-february-10-1840/


Catherine Barley wrote:
Can of you please let me know how many lacemakers and how many months it 
took

them to make the lace for Queen Victoria's wedding dress.  I do have this
information but it would save me several hours of time ploughing my way
through the many lace books on my shelves to find an accurate answer.  The
reason I ask is that I have today received an email from 'a large fashion
company' and I laughed my socks off when I read it!  !  See quote
below!

'Dear Catherine

I hope all is well with you.  I work for a fashion company and we are 
sourcing
for traditional lace made in UK and Ireland.  I'd like to explore the idea 
of
ordering or commissioning lace from you.  We are primarily interested in 
lace

trims and all-over lace by the meters (not a typing error by me) to make
evening gowns.  I love your work and I hope this is something you are
interested in'.

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RE: [lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lace?

2014-04-29 Thread Maureen
Hi Cathy

No I don't know how many months it took or how many, although, like you I
will have the information in a book somewhere.   I love the quote you have
copied from them!!   Do they really think we would be interested in making
lace like this?I suspect that by the time we have made 'the lace trims
and all over lace by the metre', the demand for them will have gone as lace
will have gone out of fashion.  Keep your reply polite!!!

Am not interested in working 24/7 on a project like this, which is what I
suspect most lacemakers will say.Got enough projects to do without
adding to them.

Maureen

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[lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lacce?

2014-04-29 Thread Catherine Barley
Dear Spiders

Can of you please let me know how many lacemakers and how many months it took
them to make the lace for Queen Victoria's wedding dress.  I do have this
information but it would save me several hours of time ploughing my way
through the many lace books on my shelves to find an accurate answer.  The
reason I ask is that I have today received an email from 'a large fashion
company' and I laughed my socks off when I read it!  One would have thought
that perhaps they would have some knowledge as to the many, many hours it
takes to make hand-made lace, particularly 'all-over lace by the metres to
make evening gowns'. I hope to be able to give them some accurate information
and a little education as to the production of hand made lace!  See quote
below!

'Dear Catherine

I hope all is well with you.  I work for a fashion company and we are sourcing
for traditional lace made in UK and Ireland.  I'd like to explore the idea of
ordering or commissioning lace from you.  We are primarily interested in lace
trims and all-over lace by the meters (not a typing error by me) to make
evening gowns.  I love your work and I hope this is something you are
interested in'.

Anyone interested in working 24/7 to churn out these 'meters' of 'all-over
lace'?

Catherine Barley
Henley-in-Thames
UK


Catherine Barley Needlelace
www.catherinebarley.com

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