date:20051116

For excitement this morning, got in w124 wagon, started up drove off  
to highway, then notice heat seater lights blinking, heated rear  
window switch blinking.
Mmm, charging issue, or battery (new battery tho). Yes the  
serpentine  belts is still there, make decision surely I can make it  
to dealer 20 miles away, shut everything electrical off, that or stop  
car on highway and deal with it. Nah lets assume the alternator isn't  
working, should have enough amps to get there.


Let's see ABS light comes on, SRS light, ASD  light, wipers quit,  
lights go dim... Still runs tho, I wonder is that diesel lift pump is  
mechanical or electric?
5 miles to go, starts to rain. I'm toast, wiper won't function, find  
a nice large parking lot to pull into and arrange  car for towing.


Wait an hour for tow truck etc... If it' hadn't started to rain I  
would have made the dealer, in thinking back it must be the glow plug  
relay stuck pulling more
amps than what the 65Amp alternator could deal with and sucked  
everything dry within 30 minutes, should have thought of that and  
pulled the glowplug

connector, sigh...

PS well I might have stopped once I started to enter the city it was  
unclear how bright (not) the brake lights were. Still it appears you  
can run a w124 diesel a long way with faulty electrical system.



John
1983 300TDt  358k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990 300TDt  154k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 168k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

2005-11-16 Thread redghost

Number 2 issue sounds like loping at idle.  Both are fuel 
delivery/timing issues.  Gump had them, but I can not remember what I 
did.

this is from the   2000 digest

--

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 15:48:28 -0500
From: Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Loping idle on 300D

Larry Henderson wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> My '83 300D turbo diesel lopes at idle.  It only does
> this when in drive or when the a/c is on (or both).  I
> have loosened my injectors (to bleed air with the
> engine running) and tried adjusting the screw on the
> back of the injection pumper (right next to the piping
> hot oil filter; pointing at the oil filter 14mm lock
> screw and 12 mm adjusting screw).  This did not seem
> to make a whole lot of difference.

From disucssions on the Mercedes lists over the last couple of years, I
have gleaned the following:

1. The five-cylinder turbodiesels have a tendency to do this.
2. Some people manage to fix it by playing with the rack damper bolt
and/or upgrading to the one with the stronger spring.
3. Others (like me) do #2 once in a while, and live with it otherwise.

However, most people who talk about it say it's the reverse of your
situation: their cars do it idling in park but are okay in gear.

Have you checked your motor mounts? If one is shot, then when you put
the car in gear the engine may be torquing around a bit, and pulling on
the throttle linkage, which could cause similar behaviour.

Just a theory.

If the infamour rack damper bolt upgrade/adjustment fix does not work,
and the mounts are okay, then evidence seems to point to the injection
pump governor. This is not really fantastic news, so we don't like to go
there ;-(.

Regards,

steve
 ---
Sexton says   My opinion: it's a vacuum leak. Mine doesn't do this.

--

The updated damper screw will probably help to get most if not all of it
out. My 300SD did this and the bulk of it went away when I replaced the
damper screw with the updated version. Now it only seems to want to do 
it

under high temperatures, and inconsistently at that. . .

Dan Penoff

-

to which Sexton replies

Loping: increasing then decresing the idele speen in a rhythmic pattern
with a frequesnty of .1 to .25 cps.

Thats what I call loping anyway. This is what McSweens car does.

The rack damper bolt is to smooth out vibration at idle and
you a) get the new longer bolt and b) only do this once your
car is tuned to *perfection* or else it's wasted time.

--

Bill Jones adds

Have you checked the condition of your primer pump?  This little item 
caused havoc in Mike's 300TD.  Loss of power and air in the in-line 
fuel filter.

Thanks to Marshall and Dan, we corrected the problem.  It is a very 
simple and inexpensive cure.  The primer pump can be easily replaced 
with a crowfoot wrench.

Regards,
Bill

I think Gump had a fuel quality and temperature issue that made the 
stuff too thick to flow well, so the IP was not able to properly feed 
and would oscillate slow/fast trying to get it right.  Also would start 
and run to the end of the block, then quit when I brake.  Not warm 
enough?  The block heater made it all go away

On Tuesday, November 15, 2005, at 07:31 PM, Christopher McCann wrote:

Two problems with the SD re: idle:

 1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but 
worse when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in 
reverse (or turn on the A/C in hot weather), the idle drops and the 
car usually stalls. Will stall at about 450 RPM.

 2. Let's say we start the car and no reverse or A/C is needed, the 
idle is fine...we drive 1-3 miles. Come to a stop and the idle is 
PULSATING between, say, 550-700 or so...just revving between those two 
engine speeds, rhytmiically, on its own. I would say 1 complete rev 
cycle per 1.5 seconds.

 3. Drive it a bit more, get the engine hot and the rhythmic idle goes 
away as does the reverse stall problem.

 Took to my Indy today. He said, "Adjust Idle". OK. It was cold 
(engine and 0 degrees C out), car starts, put in reverse, get halwayt 
out of the parking spot - STALL. Drive a few miles to my friend's 
house, park it and lo and behold, the rythmic idle rec described > above.

 Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some 
GIZMO that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse (no 
acceleration in reverse, just reverse and idle backwards (down hill - 
still stalls!))) and/or would also cause the rhythmic idling?

 Please help! Have had idle adjusted twice (with no effect) and I have 
no idea what the problem is. Would like to get some list opinions to 
take with me when I go back to my Indy tomorrow.

 Thanks a million,

 Chris

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf"
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Ja

Re: [MBZ] Reputable Indies in Tucson this time

2005-11-16 Thread Brian Chase

Thanks guys. I knew there was somebody from Litchfield Park here too.

Hey, as strange as this sounds, I need to ask if anyone has a good 
recommendation for Tucson as well.

You see, our action plan is still in flux. The car is in Tucson, the engine 
is in Phoenix, etc.

Tucson is my home town, but I haven't lived there since being bitten by the 
klatta bug, so I never had cause to investigate.

I don't think there are any listers from southeastern AZ, but thought I'd 
throw it out there.

Brian
83 240D

From: Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Reputable Indies in Phoenix
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 18:22:18 -0700

Hi Brian,

Chuck here in Phoenix.

I suggest MB Motors, 692-392-0686.Bud Cloninger is the owner and
is VERY reliable.

If you call him, tell him I said HELLO..  This is were I take my
car when I don't feel OK about doing something myself

Take care,

Chuck
1980 300SD
Phoenix, AZ
On Nov 15, 2005, at 6:11 PM, Brian Chase wrote:

> Jim, this is kind of directed at you, as I know you live in the
> Phoenix area. Anyone else though, is free to respond.
>
> I'm trying to make an action plan for getting the 240D on the road.
> I have a quote from Tri Star (which is making me ache) on an
> engine. - $950 for 160k.
>
> So I wanted to find out a trustworthy indie in the Phoenix area
> that you think might be willing to install the engine.
>
> Thanks
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
>
> _
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Water in the trunk

2005-11-16 Thread Nick Gough

Have you checked the trunk seal itself? The trunk lid could be out of  
alignment and allowing water to get in through the gap. BTDT. Taillight  
housing seals? BTDT as well.
  
  Good Luck.
  
  
  Nick Gough
  86 300SDL 171k
  93 300E 2.8 121k
  97 Jetta 70k
  

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Subject: [MBZ] New C-class
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I've seen the posts regarding the E-class W210 cars rusting out in weird 
locations.
  
  Does anyone have any knowledge of how solid the new C-class models are?
  
  I like the styling and handling and interior comfort and may be  interested 
in getting a new C230 Sport within the next 2 years... mit  6-speed and 
all-season tires. I'd really like to get a new(er) C22CDI  wagon with the 
6-speed, but it is very difficult to get one into the  US, unless one is 
willing to fork over $15k for shipping and conversion  and have no warranty. I 
drove a 2002 C320 wagon awhile back and was  duely impressed with almost 
everything about it. I just don't know of  its history as a model line. Shops 
don't really see them as most are  still under warranty and dealers prolly 
won't be honest enough to give  the straight scoop on issues. I am not so sure 
I trust a few people's  nasty notes on their woes (some being self-induced as 
they appear to be  very, very anal).
  
  Comments?
  
  Thx.
  
  
  Nick Gough
  86300SDL 171k
  93 300E 2.8 121k
  97 Jetta 70k
  

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Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Rusty Cullens

Yeah, the fuel injected cars don't have that, I guess I am crawling all
over and under it this weekend. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adrian Murphy
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 7:40 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

Well on my 250 it was in the trunk, behind the right side cosmetic
panel. A
small plastic box with a line that headed down and out of the car
cosmetically concealed a bit by the corner of the bumper. As Jim
Friesen
said. The other lines came (if I recall correctly) from the tank itself
and
maybe from the filler neck as well. One of them was off the nub on the
plastic box. Must have overfilled it a bit or something but oh the trunk
smelled horrible when I opened it. 

I think the smell was far worse though when the fuel return valve was
leaking all over. That of course only showed itself when the car was
running
and therefore the fuel pump dumping it out all over the place. It pooled
nicely on the carb heat shields and the smell would get sucked in the
intake
grate. 

Hope you find the culprit,
Adrian

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 3:22 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

Good idea Adrian. So it is. 10% off any order to the man that helps me
solve this soon. The vent line that you had bad was located where?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adrian Murphy
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 4:00 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

Well my 68 250 had a bad vent line connection and so it reeked of gas in
the
tank and I didn't notice until it snuck into the cockpit and made me
start
looking. But that was really odd I thought. I wonder if I would have
been
arrested in California with a car so old that the fuel tank had a vent
line
to (gasp) the outdoor air! 

I think you should offer a 10% discount to the person who can guess the
problem. That way everyone will give it their full attention! ;^)

Adrian Murphy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 2:27 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Help

Well, I'll be damned. I need help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
of fuel in the cockpit, but there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
Anybody ever experience this? Clogged air filter maybe?

Rusty Cullens
1-800-741-5252
http://www.BuyMBpart
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Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Rusty Cullens

No charcoal canister on this baby.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Zedic
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 7:06 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

Did you check the charcoal canister under the hood? (that's where they 
usually are)


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
83 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Rusty Cullens

No vent that I can see at the tank.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 7:04 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

I didnt know you had one of these.  Anyways, does this thing have some 
sort of venting system for the fuel tank?  Maybe the fumes are coming in

to the car that way.

Rusty Cullens wrote:

> Well, I'll be damned. I need help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
> of fuel in the cockpit, but there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
> Anybody ever experience this? Clogged air filter maybe?
>  
>  
> Rusty Cullens
> 1-800-741-5252
> http://www.BuyMBpart
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> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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[MBZ] hello?

anyone there?
  
  


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Thanks Jim, I'll check it out.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 5:52 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

 
In a message dated 11/15/2005 1:27:34 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Well,  I'll be damned. I need help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
of fuel in  the cockpit, but there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
Anybody ever  experience this? Clogged air filter maybe?



Rusty,
 

There is a black plastic gas vapor separator in the rear fender well (
mine  
was on the drivers side) with 3 lines connected to it.  One or more may
have 
come adrift or the vent out the bottom was plugged or knocked back into
the  
fender well.
 
Good luck,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 138 K  miles

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[MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

2005-11-16 Thread Smith, Todd

Hello,

I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert 
advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions.  About a month 
ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily 
driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel.  Unfortunately, neither of 
these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my 
biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during 
the sale.

This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds 
that I have in it.  My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or 
believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles.  I 
want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision.  Yes, I know that 
this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being 
burned and this is the only way to break the cycle.  The pictures are available 
at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002

The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially 
considering its age.  There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers 
over the bumpers still seem good.  It may appear to have rust along the trunk 
lid but that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking 
at the pictures.  I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm 
that statement.  The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the 
passenger's door.  There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that 
is sprung from the trim.

The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the 
driver's seat.  There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat 
that looks like it needs some attention.  I believe that the interior pictures 
cover the interior pretty well.  If anyone needs a better picture or can make a 
suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to 
ask me.

Good points:

1)  Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate 
speeds from Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia.
2)  Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception.
3)  Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C.
4)  Front windows work howbeit slowly.  The rear power windows do 
not retract, PO says that switches are bad but motors are good.  (Motor 
condition not verified)
5)  Rides pretty good for a car of its age.
6)  My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good 
but both need attention.
7)  It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run 
for a while longer.
8)   Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread.

Bad points:

1)  Serious vacuum issues:  Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic 
Transmission shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, Cruise Control works but 
will not hold speed for long.
2)  Extremely poor acceleration:  This is my first diesel and first 
MB, so this might be user error.  When at a light, I have to almost stand on 
the accelerator to get it to crawl through a light.  It takes several car 
lengths to accelerator to 20MPH and then it seems to run better.  It will reach 
70+ MPH but it doesn't't like to hold it.  Letting off the accelerator seems to 
have a large drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately.
3)  Power steering is inoperable.  PO indicates that power steering 
pump leaks profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley.  I have taken 
pictures of belt and pulley and they are with the car but not installed.
4)  Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work.  The Title says 
248K miles but the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 miles on since I 
have owned it.  I believe that the mileage on the Title is reasonably correct 
but I have no way of verifying what the PO placed on the Title.
5)  Trunk lock has been drilled out by PO.
6)   Since the engine doesn't cutoff, then the engine has to be killed 
with the fuel cutoff switch on the IP.  The primary hood release has broken off 
at the handle and protrudes through the hood.  Since the primary hood release 
is troublesome to operate then operating the car means letting the secondary 
latch hold the hood down.  Unlatching the hood means pulling the tab for the 
secondary hood release at front of the grill.
6)  A clunking noise that is seems to emanate from the rear 
passenger wheel.  It is noticeable at low speeds and seems to quiet down at 
highway speed but it is always in the background.  I believe that this may be a 
sticking brake since the brakes are very firm when pressed.  Dr. Booth in 
answering a similar question that was posted recently suggested a possible bad 
half-axle.

I am asking $1500.00 or OBO since that it what I have it in and I hope that 
this sheds some light on the car's conditio

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

2005-11-16 Thread PONDERSOA


But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by  leaving a
normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero  amps but
stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger  that
shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.

what can happens is the battery gets warm (too warm) and as it  charges or 
over charges it can  boil off the water ( electrolyte)   this electrolyte is 
acid and can cause damage  ti metal surfaces big  time   basic rule here is, 
car 
sits for maybe 2 weeks charge battery  for 1 hr  max if you experience slow 
cranking 
 remember too much of any thing can not help  too much is ...too  much.
 and really i never ever liked leaving any thing like a battery  charger 
plugged in and unattended  especially for any extended period of  time
 collins 
1985 500 sec 
 
 

I did leave it on overnight routinely last winter with no apparent  damage,
but am curious about the long term impact of doing this. We're  talking in my
case one of the Interstate Battery mega-mothers under the hood,  not a cheap
off-brand battery.

Don

[MBZ] idle insanity! (another observation)

The rhythmic revving ONLY happens in PARK and NEUTRAL. NEVER in DRIVE, REVERSE, 
3 or 2...even when at a dead stop. 
  
  
  


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Seriously, in the later 108s and 109s as part of the technology to deal wit=
h
cutting edge emissions regulations, MB created a trunk mounted fuel vapor
recovery system which consisted of a charcoal canister connected to the gas
tank vest by plastic lines. These lines and perhaps the canister itself
typically became brittle and cracked with age. I suggest you investigate
behind the trunk side panels. If this is allowed to continue, the gas fumes
can become so concentrated that they can dissolve the tarry sound insulatio=
n
material on the trunk floor, creating a nasty congealed mass of rubber
bonded to "asphalt". Ask me how I know all this...

On 11/15/05, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Or the plastic canister may have disintegrated. The car was old enough to
> drink legally in any state 15 years ago!
>
> If prior suggestions don't yield a solution, you might try taking loose
> the
> fuel line straps under the body, particularly around the rear axle and
> near
> the firewall. The lines rust through under the strap and are invisible,
> and don't drip unless they are really rotten. When the strap is loose,
> examine the line for rust or pitting.
>
> I had one on a 190D that only allowed air in the line, but never leaked
> out.
>
> Loren
>
> At 04:51 PM 11/15/2005, you wrote:
> >
> >In a message dated 11/15/2005 1:27:34 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> >Well, I'll be damned. I need help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
> >of fuel in the cockpit, but there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
> >Anybody ever experience this? Clogged air filter maybe?
> >
> >
> >
> >Rusty,
> >
> >
> >There is a black plastic gas vapor separator in the rear fender well (
> mine
> >was on the drivers side) with 3 lines connected to it. One or more may
> have
> >come adrift or the vent out the bottom was plugged or knocked back into
> the
> >fender well.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >
> >Jim Friesen
> >Phoenix AZ
> >79 300SD, 261 K miles
> >98 ML 320, 138 K miles
> >
> >___
> >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used part

Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

2005-11-16 Thread Kevin J. Slater

And where is the coil wire on a diesel? :-)

...Kevin
87 300TD 278k mi

Christopher McCann said:
> although accurate, not very convenient on a regular basis!
>
>  Chris
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> you should not really concern your self with 1/2 qt of  oil
>  the way to accurately check oil is to a change oil using 8 qt of
> oiland
> filter
>  crank the engine with the dist coil wire off  and placed nest to  a
> ground
> point to get the oil pumped up in to the filter  and tensioners  maybe 15
> or so
> sec.
>  replace coil wire start engine  and check for leaks
>  because you added 8 qts. of oil you know exactly what is in the  engine
>  collins
>  1985 500 sec
>
>
>
> In a message dated 11/15/2005 6:16:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
>
> SO, the GOAL OF THE DIPSTICK is that when it reads halfway  between min
> and
> max AFTER FOLLOWING MB's INSTRUCTIONS, you will indeed  have the  correct
> quantity of oil in the engine.
>
> I  imagine that Marshall would not insist on the BCM without having  years
> of experience behind him on this...so I must ask. Marshall, are  you
> saying
> that if my eninge calls for 8 quarts and by Divine  Revelation I  know
> there are
> exactly 8 quarts of M1 in the engine AND I  follow the  procedure above,
> the
> reading on the dipstick will read low?  And if I top  it off so that the
> dipstick reads dead center, I have now  8+ quarts of  M1?
>
> I know you have said that you don't know why this is,  it just is. Any
> elaboration would be appreciated, because I can't see  how it makes  sense
> either.
> If anything, would not M1 return to the  crankcase MORE  QUICKLY than dino
> oil
> causing the dipstick, if anything,  to READ HIGHER  when following the
> above
> instructions.
>
> This just doesn't make sense to me.
>
> My own  experience with M1 in the SD is that it reads the same following
> the
> MB  instructions as when using the BCM. Which is sort of what lead  me to
> this e-mail...the only way that can be the case is that M1 does  indeed,
> after
> a few minutes, LARGELY flow back into the  crankcase...giving  nearly the
> same
> reading at 2 minutes as at 8 hours.
>
> Additionally, if we were saying that the BCM applies only to some
> obscure
> oil, that might make sense, but it's M1...MB's oil of   choice...how can
> they
> not know how to use a dipstick? It seems a bit   absurd. Now, the memo is
> 10
> years old, maybe a new one has superceded   it...maybe M1 has changed
> since
> then...don't know.
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
>
>
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf"
> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>
> -
>  Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system

2005-11-16 Thread Hans Neureiter

That does not seem to be a regulator/alternator problem.
That's what should happen:
Key off, engine off = hot from fusebox *cut off* at switch, lamp grounded
through regulator (no current)
Key on, engine off = hot from fusebox through switch to lamp, ground through
regulator (current through lamp)
Key on, engine running = hot from fusebox through switch to lamp, hot from
regulator to lamp (no current)

 On 11/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Key off, engine not running = battery light on
>
> Key on, engine not running = battery light off
>
> Key on, engine running = battery light off
>
> This alernator was swapped in and it was charging fine the other day.
> Either I have some other problem or this alternator is bad as well.
> Guess I can try a 3rd one.
> --
> Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
> '82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Hans Neureiter

Cheapscate

On 11/15/05, Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I know you would like that discount Chuck, but I think I'll stick with
> Adrian's 10%.
>

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

2005-11-16 Thread Hans Neureiter

If the charger is "automatic", like most are, the current will go to near
nothing when the battery voltage reaches the set value. If you notice that
the battery gets very warm when you leave the charger on, you are boiling
off water and the battery will get dry. Other than that it will be OK to
leave it on.

On 11/15/05, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Yes, I know the correct answer is "Battery Tender" -- it is on my
> Christmas
> wish list.
>
> But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by leaving a
> normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero amps but
> stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger that
> shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.
>
> I did leave it on overnight routinely last winter with no apparent damage,
> but am curious about the long term impact of doing this. We're talking in
> my
> case one of the Interstate Battery mega-mothers under the hood, not a
> cheap
> off-brand battery.
>
> Don
>
>
> --
> 1977 240D
> 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
>
> http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] these seem to bring good money I guess

2005-11-16 Thread Lee Levitt

Anything with a diesel has been hot lately. People seem to be dragging old
diesel VW Jettas out of fields and posting them on ebay, and getting
thousands of dollars for them...

Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbodiesel 179K

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
> Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 8:59 PM
> To: Mercedes mailing list
> Subject: [MBZ] these seem to bring good money I guess
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-LOW-MILES-Chevy-Luv-D
> iesel-Isuzu-Diesel_W0QQitemZ4590006310QQcategoryZ6173QQrdZ1QQc
> mdZViewItem
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto 
> parts-email for used parts
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: 
> http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
>

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

2005-11-16 Thread Ron Dwelle


LTD--

I think the correct answer is, it depends on the charger. The problem 
with leaving a cheap charger on--if it keeps pumping juice into the 
battery--is that the battery will continue to gas or "boil." Over time, 
the electrolyte level will lower & eventually dry out and destroy the 
battery.


Overnight, the amount is probably not significant. You might want to 
check and top up the electrolyte level a little more regularly, if you 
leave the charger on a lot (assuming it's not a "sealed" battery.


The other thing that happens, again depending on the charger, is that 
the battery will sulfate a little faster. You can de-sulfate a battery 
by driving a very tiny current through the battery at a very high 
voltage (16 volts or so), but the lower voltages of a cheap charger 
will just cook the sulfate onto the plates. You need a charger capable 
of "equalizing" the battery to avoid this problem. The Trojan battery 
site, www.trojan-battery.com, has a good explanation.


I'm not so sure that the "Battery Tender" is a lot better than other 
cheap chargers.


Ron Dwelle

On Nov 15, 2005, at 10:35 PM, LT Don wrote:

Yes, I know the correct answer is "Battery Tender" -- it is on my 
Christmas

wish list.

But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by 
leaving a

normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero amps but
stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger that
shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.

I did leave it on overnight routinely last winter with no apparent 
damage,
but am curious about the long term impact of doing this. We're talking 
in my
case one of the Interstate Battery mega-mothers under the hood, not a 
cheap

off-brand battery.

Don


--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

[MBZ] MB Nice 1979 300D for Sale South Jersey

2005-11-16 Thread Tom Scordato

No Affiliation, no kick backs just passing this on for the good of the list

I test drove this car a while back.  One of the nicest 300Ds I have seen on 
east coast.  Maintained and records are at MB dealer in Philly area I forget 
which one but I did speak to them.  Guy who owns it now, Joe is the second 
owner.  Car is pristine. Interior is one of the best I have seen, folks who 
owned it must of weighed 100 lbs or less.   If I did not just buy a 240 D and 
own a 300D, I would probablly make an offer.  The only thing off was engine 
compartment needed detailing.  Has a two tone paint job.  No rust that I saw. I 
have pictures  if you want email me off line and I will forward them on.   
Miles are original.

Here is his recent message to me.  

"The 1979 300D has 93000 original miles. It is equipped with Power sun roof, 
auto, 5 cyl.diesel, p. windows, p. Locks, original Becker stereo, Power 
antenna, Auto air conditioning (working perfectly), Nail Guard tires in new 
condition. Selling priced to move at 6500.00. Please call me at 609-707-6050 , 
email is [EMAIL PROTECTED] for any additional info.Pictures attached."

Again I have no affiliation but it would be nice to see this go to someone who 
needs a good daily driver and can keep this bear going.  Sure beats paying for 
a new or used disposal car.

Feel free to contact him.  I think he would let it go for 5K maybe less if you 
pushed it.  His wife is on him to get it the *&&%% out of there.  (women do not 
like these cars much)  Real nice example of a 123 chassis 300D, real nice.

Regards Tom Scordato

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

2005-11-16 Thread Steve MacSween

I had a similar but not identical problem with my 116 SD. My suggestions are
strictly seat o' the pants YMMV, etc.

First, are you certain there is no air getting into the system, for example
is your primer pump in good shape (and does it screw-lock into position
after use, if it's the old style)? This can cause the behaviour you
describe, tho why it would go away when warm baffles the hell out of me.

As to adjusting the idle, my *understanding* of how the idle control works
on the turbodiesels, is that the idle adjustment (the screw on the engine
side of the pump) has to be adjusted in harmony with the rack damper bolt at
the rear end of the pump. I had a devil of a time to get my ex-Kaleb 126 SD
to behave at idle, and it took two or three tries experimenting with
different idle speeds/bolt adjustments to get it just right.

Your indy may not want to touch that bolt. Hell, he may not even know what
it is.

Mac

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Two problems with the SD re: idle:
> 
> 1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but worse
> when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in reverse (or turn on
> the A/C in hot weather), the idle drops and the car usually stalls. Will stall
> at about 450 RPM.
> 
> 2. Let's say we start the car and no reverse or A/C is needed, the idle is
> fine...we drive 1-3 miles. Come to a stop and the idle is PULSATING between,
> say, 550-700 or so...just revving between those two engine speeds,
> rhytmiically, on its own. I would say 1 complete rev cycle per 1.5 seconds.
> 
> 3. Drive it a bit more, get the engine hot and the rhythmic idle goes away as
> does the reverse stall problem.
> 
> Took to my Indy today. He said, "Adjust Idle". OK. It was cold (engine and 0
> degrees C out), car starts, put in reverse, get halwayt out of the parking
> spot - STALL. Drive a few miles to my friend's house, park it and lo and
> behold, the rythmic idle rec described above.
> 
> Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some GIZMO
> that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse (no acceleration in
> reverse, just reverse and idle backwards (down hill - still stalls!))) and/or
> would also cause the rhythmic idling?
> 
> Please help! Have had idle adjusted twice (with no effect) and I have no idea
> what the problem is. Would like to get some list opinions to take with me when
> I go back to my Indy tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks a million,
> 
> Chris
>

Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Steve MacSween

Plugged charcoal canister?

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Well, I'll be damned. I need help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
> of fuel in the cockpit, but there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
> Anybody ever experience this? Clogged air filter maybe?
> 
> 
> Rusty Cullens
> 1-800-741-5252
> http://www.BuyMBpart
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread JFreezn

 
In a message dated 11/15/2005 3:52:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

In a  message dated 11/15/2005 1:27:34 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,   
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Well,  I'll be damned. I need  help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
of fuel in  the cockpit, but  there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
Anybody ever  experience  this? Clogged air filter maybe?



Rusty,
 
I thought of something else.  If this only happens with a full tank it  may 
be that the gas cap is not sealing properly and gas is flowing out of the  tank 
on turns.  This in itself is not bad but if the big rubber grommet  that 
seals the fender to the filler pipe is rotten, gas will run into the trunk  and 
from there all over the passenger compartment.
 
Regards,  

Jim Friesen  (after that 10%)
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 138 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] Reputable Indies in Phoenix

2005-11-16 Thread JFreezn

In a message dated 11/15/2005 6:11:35 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Jim,  this is kind of directed at you, as I know you live in the Phoenix 
area.  Anyone else though, is free to respond.

I'm trying to make an action  plan for getting the 240D on the road. I have a 
quote from Tri Star (which  is making me ache) on an engine. - $950 for 160k.

So I wanted to find  out a trustworthy indie in the Phoenix area that you 
think might be  willing to install the engine.
 
Make sure it is a 75 or newer engine so that you get the ones with  
atmospheric pressure fuel correction ( ADA)  the 74 and earlier did not  have 
this and 
smoke was often excessive when higher elevations were  traversed.




What Chuck and Bob said, I have never had my 79 in the shop for repairs so  
couldn't recommend anyone.   I DID think that Tristar had  mechanics and am 
surprised they didn't offer to install the engine as well as  sell it to you. 
 
Good luck,
 
Jim
 
Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 138 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

2005-11-16 Thread tom savage


Christopher McCann wrote:


 Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some GIZMO 
that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse (no acceleration in 
reverse, just reverse and idle backwards (down hill - still stalls!))) and/or 
would also cause the rhythmic idling?


I don't know about the existance of any gizmos (would an '85 have the 
newer (MW?) IP?), but I went through a similar situation with my '82 
300D a few years ago.  Turned out to be a leaking primer pump letting 
air into the fuel stream.  Only happened with a cold engine in cold 
ambient temps; it was fine when either warmed up a bit.  Next winter it 
did the same thing again, as a hose clamp had managed to wear a tiny 
hole in the short fuel line between the prefilter and the IP.


So if you've got the old style primer pump and it leaks when you use it, 
I'd call it highly suspect.  Ditto any old rubber downstream of the IP.


Hope this helps,
Tom
'82 300D valve body on kitchen table
'96 Passat TDI getting IP timing reset on Sunday

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers


LT Don wrote:

Yes, I know the correct answer is "Battery Tender" -- it is on my Christmas
wish list.

But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by leaving a
normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero amps but
stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger that
shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.

I did leave it on overnight routinely last winter with no apparent damage,
but am curious about the long term impact of doing this. We're talking in my
case one of the Interstate Battery mega-mothers under the hood, not a cheap
off-brand battery.


Most battery chargers are designed so that as the battery reaches full 
charge, the current it's possible for the charger to pass thru the 
battery is reduced. So as full charge is approached, the current passing 
into the battery drops lower and lower. This usually prevents SERIOUS 
overcharging. That said, make ABSOLUTELY sure that before and after you 
charge the battery that the "water" level is sufficient. Overcharging 
CAN seriously deplete water and that's one of the major causes of damage 
when the battery IS overcharged. You can monitor the voltage and as long 
as it remains under 14.5 V or so, it's unlikely that an overnight charge 
will do much damage.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

Christopher McCann wrote:

Two problems with the SD re: idle:

1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but worse when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in reverse (or turn on the A/C in hot weather), the idle drops and the car usually stalls. Will stall at about 450 RPM.

2. Let's say we start the car and no reverse or A/C is needed, the idle is fine...we drive 1-3 miles. Come to a stop and the idle is PULSATING between, say, 550-700 or so...just revving between those two engine speeds, rhytmiically, on its own. I would say 1 complete rev cycle per 1.5 seconds.

3. Drive it a bit more, get the engine hot and the rhythmic idle goes away as does the reverse stall problem.

Took to my Indy today. He said, "Adjust Idle". OK. It was cold (engine and 0 degrees C out), car starts, put in reverse, get halwayt out of the parking spot - STALL. Drive a few miles to my friend's house, park it and lo and behold, the rythmic idle rec described above.

Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some GIZMO that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse (no acceleration in reverse, just reverse and idle backwards (down hill - still stalls!))) and/or would also cause the rhythmic idling?

Please help! Have had idle adjusted twice (with no effect) and I have no idea what the problem is. Would like to get some list opinions to take with me when I go back to my Indy tomorrow.

The engine lope you describe is almost always the result of the rack
damper not doing its job properly. It may be that it's an original
(silver) rack damper or it may be that a revised (gold) rack damper
screw is not properly adjusted.

The OM61x engine NO machinery to raise the idle in response to changing
load (it's supposed to be held at the the set rpm under all conditions,
but isn't - especially in very cold or very hot situations). Older
versions had a dash knob that could be twisted to raise idle when
required, but that was eliminated and the end of the '70s. On worn
engines, it's sometimes necessary to raise the idle to the upper end of
the allowable idle range (700-800 rpm) or even a little higher to
prevent stalling under some conditions. It's POSSIBLE that the injection
pump is simply worn out or WAY out of calibration.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

2005-11-16 Thread Fmiser

rumor has it that [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> you should not really concern your self with 1/2 qt of  oil 
>  the way to accurately check oil is to a change oil using 8 qt of  oiland 
> filter
>  crank the engine with the dist coil wire off  and placed nest to  a ground 
> point to get the oil pumped up in to the filter  and tensioners  maybe 15 or 
> so 
> sec.
>  replace coil wire start engine  and check for leaks 

Boy. I guess I'll have to look more closely at my cars. I've got a
bunch of cars that are quite similar to the three that Chris has... and
in all the years I've been working on them I haven't yet found a "dist
coil" that I could have "placed nest to  a ground point".

I learn something new every day!!

So maybe you guys can help me. Where _is_ the dist coil on my OM616 and
OM617 engines?

Philip

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

2005-11-16 Thread Fmiser

rumor has it that LT wrote:

> Yes, I know the correct answer is "Battery Tender" -- it is on my Christmas
> wish list.
> 
> But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by leaving a
> normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero amps but
> stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger that
> shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.
> 
> I did leave it on overnight routinely last winter with no apparent damage,
> but am curious about the long term impact of doing this. We're talking in my
> case one of the Interstate Battery mega-mothers under the hood, not a cheap
> off-brand battery.

The danger to a batter changing battery is either heat or overchange.
Car batteries are built such that heat during charge is not really a
issue, so the only thing left for us to worry about is over-changing.

And it so happens that is easy to test. Take a DC voltmeter and measure
the voltage at the battery when the charger is reporting zero amps.
Because of Ohm's law, when there is no current flowing into the
battery, the battery matches the changers voltage.

13.8 volts is max for an "old fashioned" add-water battery.
14.4 volts is max for a maintanence-free battery.

The damage will be more the greater the voltage and the longer it's
exposed. That means 14.5 V won't do much damage unless it's left
that way for weeks or months.

Philip, armed with a digital meter

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

2005-11-16 Thread Peter Frederick

You will be overcharging the battery.  You will lose water, and 
eventually you can overheat the battery or swell the plates inside up 
and crack them.  Overnight isn't too bad, but why don't you just toss 
out the $90 or so and get an automatic charger -- unless to fry it 
somehow, it should last you most of a liftime -- mine is at least 8 
years old now, still works fine.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

2005-11-16 Thread Peter Frederick


Chris:

The two problems are separate.  Your idle speed is too low, the 
injection timing is late, or the pump is worn.  I would up the idle 
speed a bit (this isn't just turning a screw, alas), and would check 
the timing chain for "stretch" -- likely you have 6-8 degrees of 
"stretch" and the IP is late, making things worse.


The rough idle hot is partially cured by an adjustment of the rack 
positioner stop bolt.  If you don't have the new one, replace it (I've 
not done this, not having a 617 turbo).  The idle will smooth out as 
soon as you lift off the idle stop, and the problem is worse hot than 
cold.  ]


The issue is actually a weak spring for the fuel control rack, but you 
have to completely disassemble the IP to fix it -- it will get worse 
with time, and evetually may force you to get the pump worked on.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

2005-11-16 Thread John Robbins


Christopher McCann wrote:

Two problems with the SD re: idle:

1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but
worse when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in
reverse (or turn on the A/C in hot weather), the idle drops and the
car usually stalls. Will stall at about 450 RPM.


Could be that your rack dampner bolt is in too far.  If it is in too far 
it will restrict fuel too much during idle conditions...



2. Let's say we start the car and no reverse or A/C is needed, the
idle is fine...we drive 1-3 miles. Come to a stop and the idle is
PULSATING between, say, 550-700 or so...just revving between those
two engine speeds, rhytmiically, on its own. I would say 1 complete
rev cycle per 1.5 seconds.


This sounds like the rack dampner bolt is out too far so no idea 
what the problem is.


Either way, sounds like it could be relayed to the rack dampner bolt 
(located on the back of the IP, bolt with a lock nut as well).  Quick 
thing to do might be to adjust it one way or the other and see how it 
changes your problems.


Proper adjustment, IIRC, is to loosen the bolt significantly, start 
engine, adjust bolt in until engine no longer rocks, lock in place with 
lock nut and hope that it starts when it's cold ;)


Best of luck with it!

John
'79 300SD

Re: [MBZ] wtf?

2005-11-16 Thread Gabriel S.

Bought it, and this is the email I got back (i hinted that it was alright if
it was a practical joke):

Dear Gabriel: Thankyou for the quick payment it's not a pratical joke, I
have had this on in the past and it works. It's from an old friend of mine
who has had a boat; and a Diesel Chevrolet Silverado and a tractor trailer
and swears it works. I will send you the tips tommorow. and will send you a
real nice feedback and would expect the same in return! Thankyou very much.
You have made a good investment. Robert

 - Original Message -
*Sent:* Tuesday, November 15, 2005 11:46 PM
*Subject:* Item #8014904212 - Notification of an Instant Payment Received
from mr.plexx

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

2005-11-16 Thread TimothyPilgrim

Well, you CAN overcharge a battery and that can be just as bad as
discharging it completely.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/15/05, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yes, I know the correct answer is "Battery Tender" -- it is on my Christmas
> wish list.
>
> But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by leaving a
> normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero amps but
> stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger that
> shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.
>
> I did leave it on overnight routinely last winter with no apparent damage,
> but am curious about the long term impact of doing this. We're talking in my
> case one of the Interstate Battery mega-mothers under the hood, not a cheap
> off-brand battery.
>
> Don
>
>
> --
> 1977 240D
> 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
>
> http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

[MBZ] CU's latest reliability ratings-

2005-11-16 Thread OK Don

http://autos.msn.com/advice/CRArt.aspx?contentid=4023544&src=LP%20Passenger

Least reliable:

SEDANS: Jaguar S-Type, Lincoln LS, Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Saab 9-3,
Mercedes-Benz S-Class, BMW 5-Series (V8), Audi A8, Chrysler 300 (V8)*,
BMW 7 series

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] wtf?

2005-11-16 Thread Gabriel S.

>Ok, so who wants to buy this and see whats up<

I just bought it, i'll let you guys know what it is when I get it. I'll
repost with subject as "TIP"

Re: [MBZ] eBay Garland TX 300d cheap


yea I have been watching it.

Rick Knoble wrote:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8014201501&fromMakeTrack=true

No affiliation, ect. Too far for me... Kaleb... maybe?
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

2005-11-16 Thread OK Don

I've got to paste in your name - hate to not acknowledge the
author/inventor. I'd run across it just last night while looking for
something else, so it was right "at hand" when I read the request.

On 11/15/05, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> OK Don, thnx for re-posting my $2 oil sucker instructions.  They're also in
> Aug 05 list archives.
>
> Wilton
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

2005-11-16 Thread David Brodbeck

LT Don wrote:
> But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by leaving a
> normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero amps but
> stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger that
> shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.

On a typical non-sealed car battery, overcharging will "boil off"*
water.  If it's not a "maintenance-free" type battery, you can replenish
the water; if it's "maintenance-free," you're stuck with a loss of
capacity.  It might not be noticeable if the overcharging is slight and
not done very often.

* Nothing is actually boiling.  The missing water has been electrolyzed
into hydrogen and oxygen and/or evaporated.

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

2005-11-16 Thread OK Don

Just a wild guess, but if you keep the electrolyte level up, there
shouldn't be a problem?

Haven't you converted to parallel glow plugs and Mobil1? Why are you
leaving a charger on overnight? Old battery?

On 11/15/05, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yes, I know the correct answer is "Battery Tender" -- it is on my Christmas
> wish list.
>
> But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by leaving a
> normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero amps but
> stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger that
> shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.
>
> I did leave it on overnight routinely last winter with no apparent damage,
> but am curious about the long term impact of doing this. We're talking in my
> case one of the Interstate Battery mega-mothers under the hood, not a cheap
> off-brand battery.
>
> Don
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

yes, I leaarned this the...easy way...fill it to full, take a trip, check oil, 
reads mid way, take the rest of the trip (3 times as many miles as the first 
leg) and it never moves below mid-way. Gets burned off/blown out fast.

 Chris

LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I can personally attest to the truth of this 
statement!

On 11/16/05, Marshall Booth  wrote:
>
> When the oil level increases much over the mid
> level, oil consumption increases

--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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From: LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: [MBZ] battery chargers
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Yes, I know the correct answer is "Battery Tender" -- it is on my Christmas
wish list.

But here is my question. Is there any significant damage done by leaving a
normal battery charger on overnight, where it might get to zero amps but
stay attached for a few hours? This is not a fancy battery charger that
shuts off or kicks into trickle mode or such.

I did leave it on overnight routinely last winter with no apparent damage,
but am curious about the long term impact of doing this. We're talking in m=
y
case one of the Interstate Battery mega-mothers under the hood, not a cheap
off-brand battery.

Don

--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

[MBZ] idle insanity!

Two problems with the SD re: idle:

 1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but worse 
when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in reverse (or turn on 
the A/C in hot weather), the idle drops and the car usually stalls. Will stall 
at about 450 RPM.

 2. Let's say we start the car and no reverse or A/C is needed, the idle is 
fine...we drive 1-3 miles. Come to a stop and the idle is PULSATING between, 
say, 550-700 or so...just revving between those two engine speeds, 
rhytmiically, on its own. I would say 1 complete rev cycle per 1.5 seconds.

 3. Drive it a bit more, get the engine hot and the rhythmic idle goes away as 
does the reverse stall problem.

 Took to my Indy today. He said, "Adjust Idle". OK. It was cold (engine and 0 
degrees C out), car starts, put in reverse, get halwayt out of the parking spot 
- STALL. Drive a few miles to my friend's house, park it and lo and behold, the 
rythmic idle rec described above.

 Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some GIZMO 
that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse (no acceleration in 
reverse, just reverse and idle backwards (down hill - still stalls!))) and/or 
would also cause the rhythmic idling?

 Please help! Have had idle adjusted twice (with no effect) and I have no idea 
what the problem is. Would like to get some list opinions to take with me when 
I go back to my Indy tomorrow.

 Thanks a million,

 Chris

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Reputable Indies in Phoenix
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Chuck is correct...Bud is the man.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park (west of Phoenix), AZ

- Original Message - 
From: "Chuck Landenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Reputable Indies in Phoenix

Hi Brian,

Chuck here in Phoenix.

I suggest MB Motors, 692-392-0686.Bud Cloninger is the owner and
is VERY reliable.

If you call him, tell him I said HELLO..  This is were I take my
car when I don't feel OK about doing something myself

Take care,

Chuck
1980 300SD
Phoenix, AZ
On Nov 15, 2005, at 6:11 PM, Brian Chase wrote:

> Jim, this is kind of directed at you, as I know you live in the
> Phoenix area. Anyone else though, is free to respond.
>
> I'm trying to make an action plan for getting the 240D on the road.
> I have a quote from Tri Star (which is making me ache) on an
> engine. - $950 for 160k.
>
> So I wanted to find out a trustworthy indie in the Phoenix area
> that you think might be willing to install the engine.
>
> Thanks
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
>
> _
> Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from
> McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?
> cid=3963
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see offi

Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

although accurate, not very convenient on a regular basis!
 
 Chris

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  

you should not really concern your self with 1/2 qt of  oil 
 the way to accurately check oil is to a change oil using 8 qt of  oiland 
filter
 crank the engine with the dist coil wire off  and placed nest to  a ground 
point to get the oil pumped up in to the filter  and tensioners  maybe 15 or so 
sec.
 replace coil wire start engine  and check for leaks 
 because you added 8 qts. of oil you know exactly what is in the  engine 
 collins 
 1985 500 sec 
   
 
 
In a message dated 11/15/2005 6:16:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


SO, the GOAL OF THE DIPSTICK is that when it reads halfway  between min  and 
max AFTER FOLLOWING MB's INSTRUCTIONS, you will indeed  have the  correct 
quantity of oil in the engine.

I  imagine that Marshall would not insist on the BCM without having  years  
of experience behind him on this...so I must ask. Marshall, are  you  saying 
that if my eninge calls for 8 quarts and by Divine  Revelation I  know there 
are 
exactly 8 quarts of M1 in the engine AND I  follow the  procedure above, the 
reading on the dipstick will read low?  And if I top  it off so that the 
dipstick reads dead center, I have now  8+ quarts of  M1?

I know you have said that you don't know why this is,  it just is. Any  
elaboration would be appreciated, because I can't see  how it makes  sense 
either. 
If anything, would not M1 return to the  crankcase MORE  QUICKLY than dino oil 
causing the dipstick, if anything,  to READ HIGHER  when following the above 
instructions.

This just doesn't make sense to me.

My own  experience with M1 in the SD is that it reads the same following  the 
MB  instructions as when using the BCM. Which is sort of what lead  me to  
this e-mail...the only way that can be the case is that M1 does  indeed,  after 
a few minutes, LARGELY flow back into the  crankcase...giving  nearly the same 
reading at 2 minutes as at 8 hours.

Additionally, if we were saying that the BCM applies only to some   obscure 
oil, that might make sense, but it's M1...MB's oil of   choice...how can they 
not know how to use a dipstick? It seems a bit   absurd. Now, the memo is 10 
years old, maybe a new one has superceded   it...maybe M1 has changed since 
then...don't know.





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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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yep, I know that midway is ideal and I did catch the paragraph you mention. 
Toppin

Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

"Once you change  to Mobil 1 (and some other synthetics) the scheme that's 
outline in 
older (up thru the mid '90s or a bit later) owner's manual doesn't 
work. Mercedes solved the problem by eliminating the dipstick before they 
mandated synthetic oil."

Well, that makes sense as the average person will not wait 8 hours to check 
their oil, they will do it whenever or at fill up.

It also shows a consistency in MB instructions as I have a hard time NOT doing 
what they say and here (old cars, synthetic oil) is obviously something they 
are not interested in addressing.

Why synthetics take longer to reach the sump is still a mystery to me, but one 
I don't really need to understand.

Thanks,

Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: The only way to be sure there is 8 qt 
of oil in the engine is to empty 
the engine COMPLETELY and then put 8 qt of oil into it! The use of the 
dipstick is a simple method for checking the oil content of the engine. 
It worked rather reliably when conventional oil is used. Once you change 
to Mobil 1 (and some other synthetics) the scheme that's outline in 
older (up thru the mid '90s or a bit later) owner's manual doesn't work. 
Mercedes solved the problem by eliminating the dipstick before they 
mandated synthetic oil.

The problem with Mobil 1 (and most other oils composed of group IV & V 
base) is that they may take as long as 6-8 hours to return to the sump 
under some conditions! What's important is the TOTAL quantity of oil in 
the engine - NOT the quantity of oil in the sump.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Identifying Fasteners
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What a great reference! Thanks Larry!

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/15/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Fastener-Tools.as=
px
> has several printable tools to help identify fastener sizes.  After
> printing, lay the fastener against the sheet to find the appropriate size=
.
>
> HTH's
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.ren

Re: [MBZ] Water in the trunk

2005-11-16 Thread redghost


yep. Gump weeps too.  I think I may need to install some Depends


On Tuesday, November 15, 2005, at 11:40 AM, David Brodbeck wrote:


Anyone else have this problem?  Every morning there's a ton of
condensation on the inside of the trunk lid.  It runs down the hinges
into the trunk when I open the lid, and rains down on the contents from
the rear lip where it's collected.  Last week I took the carpet out and
found it had soaked up what seemed like about a pint of water.  I can't
tell if it's all coming from condensation, or if the condensation is a
symptom of a leak elsewhere.


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] '99 E300

2005-11-16 Thread Lee Levitt

Aw crap, you're right. I just checked the title. This buggy was 
made in 1992!

Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbodiesel 179K


On Tue Nov 15 18:11:39 PST 2005, "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:

>> The W124 feels old in comparison.<
> 
> Maybe because it is old.
>

[MBZ] eBay Garland TX 300d cheap

2005-11-16 Thread Rick Knoble

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8014201501&fromMakeTrack=true

No affiliation, ect. Too far for me... Kaleb... maybe?
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD

Re: [MBZ] nice looking 220D stick

2005-11-16 Thread redghost

that is five times what I paid for Gump and looks to be in about the  
same condition.  Too many extras though.  Robs too much power from the  
puny engine and what chance the AC works?



On Tuesday, November 15, 2005, at 09:45 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1974-220S- 
MERCEDES-DIESEL-LTHR-159K-MILES-NO- 
RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4590355529QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

--



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

I don't think they actually got any into the country for people to  
buy. Smart wouldn't sign a deal with them, the few they
had around they bought helterskeler from various places on the globe  
I understand. Not even sure they

converted the ones they showed either.

See from their FAQ
"When will the Smart Car Americanized by ZAP be available?
Soon, but at ZAP we foresee a huge public demand for this car for  
which there may not be enough initial supply to satisfy."


then in their news release
"As alleged in the complaint, rather than share or promote ZAP's  
success in converting and marketing Daimler's high fuel-efficiency  
"Smart Car" in the U.S., Daimler sought to destroy ZAP; to capture  
its market share; and to discredit ZAP in the eyes of investors,  
regulators, journalists, suppliers, buyers, other third-parties, and  
the American public generally. As further alleged in the complaint,  
Daimler's misconduct was undertaken with the intention of stealing  
and profiting from ZAP's marketing plans, technologies, business  
relationships and know how"


Somehow that's not a way to get DC to knowingly sell you another car,  
also messages from one extreme to the next about products on your  
website

is a clue to run away...

Perhaps Kevin means this little death trap here
http://www.zapworld.com/cars/intimidator.asp
Mind it only will hit 25MPH, perhaps in SF  Ford Explorers owners  
don't see them and mow them down when they are doing 45mph



On 15-Nov-05, at 5:30 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


John M McIntosh wrote:


I wasn't aware you could buy Smarts in the USA since they are not EPA
etc approved yet.


ZAP was importing them.
They recently sued D-C, so I don't think that project is going too  
well.

http://www.zapworld.com/about/news/news_zapfileslegal.asp
http://in.news.yahoo.com/051102/137/60ua2.html

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Re: [MBZ] SFO Smarts

On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 09:39:36PM -0500, Mitch Haley wrote:
> > Since Smarts have not been certified for the US and there is no US model
> > (even though they are sold in Canada) I would like to see a photo of an SFO
> > city-owned Smart.
> 
> I don't think muni vehicles have to pass DOT & EPA. USPS used to have
> a fleet of Jeeps that would not pass certification, and in the 1970's
> Michigan State University had a fleet of them for parking enforcement.

This is my understanding as well.

I try to avoid san francisco whenever possible, but next time I see one
I'll try to snap a pic.

K

[MBZ] wtf?

2005-11-16 Thread wilton strickland

BS

Wilton

Re: [MBZ] SFO Smarts

2005-11-16 Thread Mitch Haley

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Since Smarts have not been certified for the US and there is no US model
> (even though they are sold in Canada) I would like to see a photo of an SFO
> city-owned Smart.

I don't think muni vehicles have to pass DOT & EPA. USPS used to have
a fleet of Jeeps that would not pass certification, and in the 1970's
Michigan State University had a fleet of them for parking enforcement.

Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

2005-11-16 Thread PONDERSOA

 

you should not really concern your self with 1/2 qt of  oil 
 the way to accurately check oil is to a change oil using 8 qt of  oiland 
filter
 crank the engine with the dist coil wire off  and placed nest to  a ground 
point to get the oil pumped up in to the filter  and tensioners  maybe 15 or so 
sec.
 replace coil wire start engine  and check for leaks 
 because you added 8 qts. of oil you know exactly what is in the  engine 
 collins 
 1985 500 sec 
   
 
 
In a message dated 11/15/2005 6:16:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


SO, the GOAL OF THE DIPSTICK is that when it reads halfway  between min  and 
max AFTER FOLLOWING MB's INSTRUCTIONS, you will indeed  have the  correct 
quantity of oil in the engine.

I  imagine that Marshall would not insist on the BCM without having  years  
of experience behind him on this...so I must ask. Marshall, are  you  saying 
that if my eninge calls for 8 quarts and by Divine  Revelation I  know there 
are 
exactly 8 quarts of M1 in the engine AND I  follow the  procedure above, the 
reading on the dipstick will read low?  And if I top  it off so that the 
dipstick reads dead center, I have now  8+ quarts of  M1?

I know you have said that you don't know why this is,  it just is. Any  
elaboration would be appreciated, because I can't see  how it makes  sense 
either. 
If anything, would not M1 return to the  crankcase MORE  QUICKLY than dino oil 
causing the dipstick, if anything,  to READ HIGHER  when following the above 
instructions.

This just doesn't make sense to me.

My own  experience with M1 in the SD is that it reads the same following  the 
MB  instructions as when using the BCM. Which is sort of what lead  me to  
this e-mail...the only way that can be the case is that M1 does  indeed,  after 
a few minutes, LARGELY flow back into the  crankcase...giving  nearly the same 
reading at 2 minutes as at 8 hours.

Additionally, if we were saying that the BCM applies only to some   obscure 
oil, that might make sense, but it's M1...MB's oil of   choice...how can they 
not know how to use a dipstick? It seems a bit   absurd. Now, the memo is 10 
years old, maybe a new one has superceded   it...maybe M1 has changed since 
then...don't know.

[MBZ] SFO Smarts

2005-11-16 Thread RELNGSON

Since Smarts have not been certified for the US and there is no US model 
(even though they are sold in Canada) I would like to see a photo of an SFO 
city-owned Smart.

RLE/Seattle

Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

Mercedes specifies in MANY places that the optimum oil level is between 
a pt and a qt below the MAX mark (they say it lots of different way, but 
that's the bottom line). When the oil level increases much over the mid 
level, oil consumption increases (that's been true of every Mercedes 
I've owned for more than 40 years). In TSB 00/57A (and other Mercedes 
procedural outlines) owners are cautioned to NOT frequently top up the 
oil level but to wait until the oil reaches the ADD mark. They have 
finally insured this by eliminating the dipstick and giving the owner NO 
clue as to oil level until the "add oil" warning is displayed.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

2005-11-16 Thread Lee Levitt

Take a look at the car *before* the accident. Not a whole lot of 
crumple room in the front of that car...and not much less 
afterwards. Reminds me a bit of a VW Microbus, where all the 
crumple is in the knee, not the bodywork.

Give me a properly engineered European sedan that folds like an 
accordion in a heavy hit. I want *progressive* deceleration, not 
the basketball-style bounceback that the Smart showed.

Here's a couple of interesting crash videos:

http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=safe&story=crashRatings&subject=crash

With each of the european sedan crashes (A6, E class, etc), 
there's a nice progressive collapse of the front structure of the 
car.

Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbodiesel 178K

On Tue Nov 15 16:16:19 PST 2005, Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:

> On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 02:32:57PM -0500, Jeff Zedic wrote:
>> Overall, an amazing little car in a crash. I see a dozen of 
>> these a day!
> 
> BT, WRONG.
> 
> The san francisco city workers' union is filing suit to prevent 
> the city
> from buying any more of them. The union claims that on the job 
> injuries (major
> and worse) have gone up significantly since the city started 
> buying smarts.
> 
> Just because the car seems to have held up does not mean it is 
> safe - it means
> more energy was transferred to the occupants.
> 
> K
> 
> ___
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>

Re: [MBZ] '99 E300

2005-11-16 Thread Gabriel S.

>The W124 feels old in comparison.<

Maybe because it is old.

Re: [MBZ] these seem to bring good money I guess

On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 06:01:39PM -0800, David Brodbeck wrote:
> The Isuzu diesels in them have a reputation for running just about
> forever, often outliving the body.  (Just like our Mercedes Benzes.)

With those trucks, that isn't hard. Same engine in the diesel chevette, iirc,
same story.

K

Re: [MBZ] these seem to bring good money I guess

2005-11-16 Thread Mitch Haley

David Brodbeck wrote:
> The Isuzu diesels in them have a reputation for running just about
> forever, often outliving the body.  (Just like our Mercedes Benzes.)

Here in the rust belt, anything would outlast a 1970's Jap pickup body.
(except maybe a Fiat body)

Re: [MBZ] these seem to bring good money I guess

2005-11-16 Thread LT Don

Why? Fuel economy, fuel economy, and fuel economy.

On 11/16/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-LOW-MILES-Chevy-Luv-Diesel-Isuzu-Diesel_W0QQitemZ4590006310QQcategoryZ6173QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] these seem to bring good money I guess

2005-11-16 Thread David Brodbeck

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-LOW-MILES-Chevy-Luv-Diesel-Isuzu-Diesel_W0QQitemZ4590006310QQcategoryZ6173QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The Isuzu diesels in them have a reputation for running just about
forever, often outliving the body.  (Just like our Mercedes Benzes.)

[MBZ] these seem to bring good money I guess


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-LOW-MILES-Chevy-Luv-Diesel-Isuzu-Diesel_W0QQitemZ4590006310QQcategoryZ6173QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

The only way to be sure there is 8 qt of oil in the engine is to empty 
the engine COMPLETELY and then put 8 qt of oil into it! The use of the 
dipstick is a simple method for checking the oil content of the engine. 
It worked rather reliably when conventional oil is used. Once you change 
to Mobil 1 (and some other synthetics) the scheme that's outline in 
older (up thru the mid '90s or a bit later) owner's manual doesn't work. 
Mercedes solved the problem by eliminating the dipstick before they 
mandated synthetic oil.


The problem with Mobil 1 (and most other oils composed of group IV & V 
base) is that they may take as long as 6-8 hours to return to the sump 
under some conditions! What's important is the TOTAL quantity of oil in 
the engine - NOT the quantity of oil in the sump.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

2005-11-16 Thread David Brodbeck

Mike Canfield wrote:
> Probably seeing the electric vehicles Ford sells to all of the state parks 
> around here.
>
> Not even close to a Smart.  Mike

Or those GM "neighborhood vehicles."  Glorified golf carts.  I wouldn't
want to be in a crash in one.

[MBZ] wtf?


Ok, so who wants to buy this and see whats up

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Diesel-Tip-6-2-litre-or-One-Million-miles_W0QQitemZ8014904212QQcategoryZ33663QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] 1974 240D Philly area


uhh, yea, I sure hope he is coming down, alot.

Tom Scordato wrote:

This is the one I went and looked at before I settled on my 79 240D (just 
can not part with 123)


See or do a search on Big Lot

http://www.thebiglot.com/ad_auto.asp?WI=945342612&MK=MERCEDES%20BENZ&MD=240D&PN=1&AT=1&;

Car is still for sale, guy called me today he would reduce price.  Might be 
worth a look see, I think the tranny made need work or some vacuum 
adjustments if applicable for that model.  If you are looking for a 115 
chassis this is pretty nice very very little if any rust., I drove her not 
bad, but needs some work, minor stuff as these cars always need.


Regards Tom

Body is in very good shape,
- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1974 240D




What's the asking price?

On 11/14/05, Tom Scordato <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Anyone interested in a 1974 240D, I think has around 70-90K. Body in good
shape. Located in Philly area. I test drove it. Some minor things but 
with

a little tlc could be a very good daily driver. Real nice condition for a
115.

If you are interested email me direct and I will hook you up. I was going
to by but settled on a 123 chassis four banger.

Regards Tom Scordato
Bellefonte PA
- Original Message -
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?




Thanks - I will try the local sources.

On 11/14/05, Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


$1.70, probably cheaper to get locally.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Loren Faeth

Or the plastic canister may have disintegrated.  The car was old enough to 
drink  legally in any state 15 years ago!


If prior suggestions don't yield a solution, you might try taking loose the 
fuel line straps under the body, particularly around the rear axle and near 
the firewall.  The lines rust through under the strap and are invisible, 
and don't drip unless they are really rotten.  When the strap is loose, 
examine the line for rust or pitting.


I had one on a 190D that only allowed air in the line, but never leaked out.

Loren

At 04:51 PM 11/15/2005, you wrote:


In a message dated 11/15/2005 1:27:34 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Well,  I'll be damned. I need help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
of fuel in  the cockpit, but there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
Anybody ever  experience this? Clogged air filter maybe?



Rusty,


There is a black plastic gas vapor separator in the rear fender well ( mine
was on the drivers side) with 3 lines connected to it.  One or more may  have
come adrift or the vent out the bottom was plugged or knocked back into the
fender well.

Good luck,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles
98 ML 320, 138 K  miles

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Re: [MBZ] 1974 240D Philly area

2005-11-16 Thread Tom Scordato


stick shift or automatic?


Automatic


- Original Message - 
From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1974 240D



stick shift or automatic?

On 11/14/05, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


What's the asking price?

On 11/14/05, Tom Scordato <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Anyone interested in a 1974 240D, I think has around 70-90K. Body in
good
> shape. Located in Philly area. I test drove it. Some minor things but
with
> a little tlc could be a very good daily driver. Real nice condition for
a
> 115.
>
> If you are interested email me direct and I will hook you up. I was
going
> to by but settled on a 123 chassis four banger.
>
> Regards Tom Scordato
> Bellefonte PA
> - Original Message -
> From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 1:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?
>
>
> > Thanks - I will try the local sources.
> >
> > On 11/14/05, Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> $1.70, probably cheaper to get locally.
> >>
> > --
> > OK Don, KD5NRO
> > Norman, OK
> > '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
> > The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> > http://www.venganza.org/
> >
> > ___
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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[MBZ] 1974 240D Philly area

2005-11-16 Thread Tom Scordato

This is the one I went and looked at before I settled on my 79 240D (just 
can not part with 123)

See or do a search on Big Lot

http://www.thebiglot.com/ad_auto.asp?WI=945342612&MK=MERCEDES%20BENZ&MD=240D&PN=1&AT=1&;

Car is still for sale, guy called me today he would reduce price.  Might be 
worth a look see, I think the tranny made need work or some vacuum 
adjustments if applicable for that model.  If you are looking for a 115 
chassis this is pretty nice very very little if any rust., I drove her not 
bad, but needs some work, minor stuff as these cars always need.

Regards Tom

Body is in very good shape,
- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1974 240D

What's the asking price?

On 11/14/05, Tom Scordato <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Anyone interested in a 1974 240D, I think has around 70-90K. Body in good
shape. Located in Philly area. I test drove it. Some minor things but 
with

a little tlc could be a very good daily driver. Real nice condition for a
115.

If you are interested email me direct and I will hook you up. I was going
to by but settled on a 123 chassis four banger.

Regards Tom Scordato
Bellefonte PA
- Original Message -
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?

> Thanks - I will try the local sources.
>
> On 11/14/05, Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> $1.70, probably cheaper to get locally.
>>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

2005-11-16 Thread Mitch Haley

John M McIntosh wrote:
> 
> I wasn't aware you could buy Smarts in the USA since they are not EPA
> etc approved yet.

ZAP was importing them. 
They recently sued D-C, so I don't think that project is going too well.
http://www.zapworld.com/about/news/news_zapfileslegal.asp
http://in.news.yahoo.com/051102/137/60ua2.html

Re: [MBZ] Reputable Indies in Phoenix

2005-11-16 Thread Chuck Landenberger


Hi Brian,

Chuck here in Phoenix.

I suggest MB Motors, 692-392-0686.Bud Cloninger is the owner and  
is VERY reliable.


If you call him, tell him I said HELLO..  This is were I take my  
car when I don't feel OK about doing something myself


Take care,

Chuck
1980 300SD
Phoenix, AZ
On Nov 15, 2005, at 6:11 PM, Brian Chase wrote:

Jim, this is kind of directed at you, as I know you live in the  
Phoenix area. Anyone else though, is free to respond.


I'm trying to make an action plan for getting the 240D on the road.  
I have a quote from Tri Star (which is making me ache) on an  
engine. - $950 for 160k.


So I wanted to find out a trustworthy indie in the Phoenix area  
that you think might be willing to install the engine.


Thanks

Brian
83 240D

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cid=3963



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[MBZ] Reputable Indies in Phoenix

2005-11-16 Thread Brian Chase

Jim, this is kind of directed at you, as I know you live in the Phoenix 
area. Anyone else though, is free to respond.


I'm trying to make an action plan for getting the 240D on the road. I have a 
quote from Tri Star (which is making me ache) on an engine. - $950 for 160k.


So I wanted to find out a trustworthy indie in the Phoenix area that you 
think might be willing to install the engine.


Thanks

Brian
83 240D

_
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Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Adrian Murphy

I found the reference in my trusty old paper manual with pictures that you
can actually see. It was under 47-2 Fuel tank ventilation. The job number
would be he same I assume. Regardless, I attached a scan of the page for
reference if anyone was interested. Notice the complexity of the system in
68'. Charcoal canisters were for sitting next to the BBQ grill in those days
I guess. It had to be near on the horizon however.

I hope the list does its magic on it and creates a link. That is a cool
feature Kaleb. Nice work. 

Adrian
-- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

2005-11-16 Thread Mike Canfield

Probably seeing the electric vehicles Ford sells to all of the state parks 
around here.

Not even close to a Smart.  Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "John M McIntosh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

Smart doesn't make electric smarts either, perhaps you're confused
with some company selling golf carts?

On 15-Nov-05, at 4:49 PM, Kevin wrote:

On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 04:38:28PM -0800, John M McIntosh wrote:

I wasn't aware you could buy Smarts in the USA since they are not EPA
etc approved yet.

Some [EMAIL PROTECTED] in san rafael sells electric smarts, apparently. I didn't
think
they were approved either. I've seen a few buzzing around with dealer
plates, in addition to the san franciscan smarts.

K

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Re: [MBZ] Help

On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 07:06:16PM -0500, Jeff Zedic wrote:
> Did you check the charcoal canister under the hood? (that's where they 
> usually are)

Without knowing anything about 108s, my generic 'fuel leaks but no fuel leaks'
checklist would be to check the charcoal canister, check the fuel tank
vent/overfill system, if a mechanical fuel pump check the oil ([EMAIL 
PROTECTED] jeeps), 
and if that hadn't found anything, drop the fuel tank and check the holes
in the tank to make sure that all of the holes are ones put there by the 
factory (stupid flowerstroke) and that the ones the factory put there aren't
leaking anything.

Good luck, Rusty. Make sure you call the list sponsor if you need parts :)

K

Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

Smart doesn't make electric smarts either, perhaps you're confused  
with some company selling golf carts?


On 15-Nov-05, at 4:49 PM, Kevin wrote:


On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 04:38:28PM -0800, John M McIntosh wrote:

I wasn't aware you could buy Smarts in the USA since they are not EPA
etc approved yet.


Some [EMAIL PROTECTED] in san rafael sells electric smarts, apparently. I didn't  
think

they were approved either. I've seen a few buzzing around with dealer
plates, in addition to the san franciscan smarts.

K

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Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 04:38:28PM -0800, John M McIntosh wrote:
> I wasn't aware you could buy Smarts in the USA since they are not EPA  
> etc approved yet.

Some [EMAIL PROTECTED] in san rafael sells electric smarts, apparently. I 
didn't think
they were approved either. I've seen a few buzzing around with dealer
plates, in addition to the san franciscan smarts.

K

Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Adrian Murphy

Well on my 250 it was in the trunk, behind the right side cosmetic panel. A
small plastic box with a line that headed down and out of the car
cosmetically concealed a bit by the corner of the bumper. As Jim  Friesen
said. The other lines came (if I recall correctly) from the tank itself and
maybe from the filler neck as well. One of them was off the nub on the
plastic box. Must have overfilled it a bit or something but oh the trunk
smelled horrible when I opened it. 

I think the smell was far worse though when the fuel return valve was
leaking all over. That of course only showed itself when the car was running
and therefore the fuel pump dumping it out all over the place. It pooled
nicely on the carb heat shields and the smell would get sucked in the intake
grate. 

Hope you find the culprit,
Adrian




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 3:22 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

Good idea Adrian. So it is. 10% off any order to the man that helps me
solve this soon. The vent line that you had bad was located where?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adrian Murphy
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 4:00 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

Well my 68 250 had a bad vent line connection and so it reeked of gas in
the
tank and I didn't notice until it snuck into the cockpit and made me
start
looking. But that was really odd I thought. I wonder if I would have
been
arrested in California with a car so old that the fuel tank had a vent
line
to (gasp) the outdoor air! 

I think you should offer a 10% discount to the person who can guess the
problem. That way everyone will give it their full attention! ;^)

Adrian Murphy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 2:27 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Help

Well, I'll be damned. I need help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
of fuel in the cockpit, but there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
Anybody ever experience this? Clogged air filter maybe?
 
 
Rusty Cullens
1-800-741-5252
http://www.BuyMBpart
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Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

I wasn't aware you could buy Smarts in the USA since they are not EPA  
etc approved yet.


On 15-Nov-05, at 4:16 PM, Kevin wrote:


On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 02:32:57PM -0500, Jeff Zedic wrote:
Overall, an amazing little car in a crash. I see a dozen of these  
a day!


BT, WRONG.

The san francisco city workers' union is filing suit to prevent the  
city
from buying any more of them. The union claims that on the job  
injuries (major
and worse) have gone up significantly since the city started buying  
smarts.


Just because the car seems to have held up does not mean it is safe  
- it means

more energy was transferred to the occupants.

Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

2005-11-16 Thread Rich Thomas


There is something about that phrase that is not quite right.

--R




The san francisco city workers' union

Re: [MBZ] For those who like big cars

On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 02:32:57PM -0500, Jeff Zedic wrote:
> Overall, an amazing little car in a crash. I see a dozen of these a day!

BT, WRONG.

The san francisco city workers' union is filing suit to prevent the city
from buying any more of them. The union claims that on the job injuries (major
and worse) have gone up significantly since the city started buying smarts.

Just because the car seems to have held up does not mean it is safe - it means
more energy was transferred to the occupants.

K

Re: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system

On Tue, Nov 15, 2005 at 08:13:09AM -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> Key off, engine not running = battery light on
> 
> Key on, engine not running = battery light off
> 
> Key on, engine running = battery light off
> 
> This alernator was swapped in and it was charging fine the other day. 
> Either I have some other problem or this alternator is bad as well. 
> Guess I can try a 3rd one.

Take the alternator down to a mcparts store and have them tested to make 
sure you didn't pop a diode or something in it. If the voltage is too low,
it could be the regulator. If the alternator checks out fine (aren't they 
internally regulated those years?), it's something else in the car - bad
ground, weak cell in the battery (which will kill alternators), etc.

K

Re: [MBZ] Help

2005-11-16 Thread Jeff Zedic

Did you check the charcoal canister under the hood? (that's where they 
usually are)



Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
83 300D

Re: [MBZ] Help

I didnt know you had one of these.  Anyways, does this thing have some 
sort of venting system for the fuel tank?  Maybe the fumes are coming in 
to the car that way.


Rusty Cullens wrote:


Well, I'll be damned. I need help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
of fuel in the cockpit, but there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
Anybody ever experience this? Clogged air filter maybe?
 
 
Rusty Cullens

1-800-741-5252
http://www.BuyMBpart
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Water in the trunk