[MBZ] Somebody needs this - CL

[clay via Mercedes]

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/5821199496.html

IT may be in pieces, but there has got to be useful parts to someone on the list


clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei

retired models-
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] OT: BMW R100/7

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

lemme look around the MOA for sale stuff.


MG via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 10:58 PM
Anybody have an opinion on the value of an 83 R100/7? It isn't in 
great shape but does need new carb floats and probably by now both 
brake master cylinders. I'm at the age where I really don't want to 
get on it any more. "Mercedes Content" I'm just too comfortable in my 
83 300TD what with the AC and all down here in Florida.


Manfred

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Re: [MBZ] Shakes when...

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Car shake at running

--Ludmilla


On 10/12/16 1:02 AM, clay via Mercedes wrote:

it has been running for a bit.  Not Ludmilla.

Polei is pretty smooth on start, but when she warms up, I think the motor mount 
on the driver side is shot.  Or is it the engine shock that is gone?  I did 
look at the underside, and the bushing for the shock is melted.  Does it want a 
whole new shock or maybe just the bushing?The shakes are not really bad, 
only at idle, and not as vigorous as in Gump.   When I did Gump, I did both 
motor mounts and then the front mount and Trans mount.

In the coming months I am pretty sure I will be needing to source a slew of 
rubber parts to replace the perished bits.  The vacuum is pretty slow and not 
complete for door locks.  Some doors lock, others, not so much.  Engine bay 
will need hoses, but thinking the belts look not too bad.  IF I gather a bucket 
of cash, the bushings all over will be getting attention.  I do not expect that 
to happen, since this is going to have to be an AS IS Where is car.  I have 
poured massive cash into getting her road worthy, with a little more to spend.
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--
--FT


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[MBZ] Shakes when...

[clay via Mercedes]

it has been running for a bit.  Not Ludmilla.

Polei is pretty smooth on start, but when she warms up, I think the motor mount 
on the driver side is shot.  Or is it the engine shock that is gone?  I did 
look at the underside, and the bushing for the shock is melted.  Does it want a 
whole new shock or maybe just the bushing?The shakes are not really bad, 
only at idle, and not as vigorous as in Gump.   When I did Gump, I did both 
motor mounts and then the front mount and Trans mount.

In the coming months I am pretty sure I will be needing to source a slew of 
rubber parts to replace the perished bits.  The vacuum is pretty slow and not 
complete for door locks.  Some doors lock, others, not so much.  Engine bay 
will need hoses, but thinking the belts look not too bad.  IF I gather a bucket 
of cash, the bushings all over will be getting attention.  I do not expect that 
to happen, since this is going to have to be an AS IS Where is car.  I have 
poured massive cash into getting her road worthy, with a little more to spend.


clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei

retired models-
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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[MBZ] Shakes when...

[clay via Mercedes]

it has been running for a bit.  Not Ludmilla.

Polei is pretty smooth on start, but when she warms up, I think the motor mount 
on the driver side is shot.  Or is it the engine shock that is gone?  I did 
look at the underside, and the bushing for the shock is melted.  Does it want a 
whole new shock or maybe just the bushing?The shakes are not really bad, 
only at idle, and not as vigorous as in Gump.   When I did Gump, I did both 
motor mounts and then the front mount and Trans mount.

In the coming months I am pretty sure I will be needing to source a slew of 
rubber parts to replace the perished bits.  The vacuum is pretty slow and not 
complete for door locks.  Some doors lock, others, not so much.  Engine bay 
will need hoses, but thinking the belts look not too bad.  IF I gather a bucket 
of cash, the bushings all over will be getting attention.  I do not expect that 
to happen, since this is going to have to be an AS IS Where is car.  I have 
poured massive cash into getting her road worthy, with a little more to spend.
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Re: [MBZ] Rusty Paste

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

Clay sez: 

>‎Unless SWMBA decides that it is >crap and tosses it into the trash.

Ding Ding Ding Ding.  

Rick 
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10‎
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Re: [MBZ] OT: BMW R100/7

[clay via Mercedes]

Maybe $4-6K depending upon condition and miles.  If you take are of the carb 
floats and brakes the sale will be much quicker.  Otherwise, I am going to say 
$2k all day long for a base R100.  



> On Oct 11, 2016, at 8:58 PM, MG via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> Anybody have an opinion on the value of an 83 R100/7? It isn't in great shape 
> but does need new carb floats and probably by now both brake master 
> cylinders. I'm at the age where I really don't want to get on it any more. 
> "Mercedes Content" I'm just too comfortable in my 83 300TD what with the AC 
> and all down here in Florida.
> 
> Manfred
> 
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[MBZ] Rusty Paste

[clay via Mercedes]

A dozen years ago I got a wee tin of Sun roof Paste from Rusty.  It was able to 
keep the E300D sunroof sliding, I shared a bit with a few others, and today, I 
used it on Polei.The tin is smooshed and old, but still holds almost the 
same amount of goo as when Rusty shipped it to me.  I am pretty sure that when 
I croak, the little tin will be part of my estate and pass to the next 
generation, who will pass it on to their kids and grandkids.  

Unless SWMBA decides that it is crap and tosses it into the trash.


clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei

retired models-
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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[MBZ] OT: BMW R100/7

[MG via Mercedes]

Anybody have an opinion on the value of an 83 R100/7? It isn't in 
great shape but does need new carb floats and probably by now 
both brake master cylinders. I'm at the age where I really don't 
want to get on it any more. "Mercedes Content" I'm just too 
comfortable in my 83 300TD what with the AC and all down here in 
Florida.


Manfred

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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I figgered somebody had yer number!  Rabble rouser!  ;)



Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 10:06 PM
Well in that case it might be well-founded.  Some interesting news to 
come in that regard, stand by.


--FT




Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 9:03 PM
Well my power came back on 5ish, I waited a coupla hours then took a 
nice lng hot shower!


Da po folks ovah heah in da woods takin back seat ta da rich white 
folk over in the prestigious gated resort lifestyle luxury communities.


--FT




Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 7:11 PM
Solar shower. Black bag, put on roof, fill with hose, wait. Cheap and
cheerful.

On Oct 11, 2016 4:44 PM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" 
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Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 6:44 PM
Remember the show Green Acres? I can shower with just the little genny if
I turn off everything else while the tank heats up. But it's a pain.

-- Jim
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Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 10:30 AM
My 11hp Robin generator can run my 4500W per element (one element runs 
at a
time) water heater, my only problem is if the well pump kicks in, the 
surge from

the pump shutting off kills the breaker on the generator.
Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Well in that case it might be well-founded.  Some interesting news to 
come in that regard, stand by.


--FT


On 10/11/16 11:05 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Naaa, I think they are just extracting revenge on those who rouse 
rabbles and fight the freeway!



Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 9:03 PM
Well my power came back on 5ish, I waited a coupla hours then took a 
nice lng hot shower!


Da po folks ovah heah in da woods takin back seat ta da rich white 
folk over in the prestigious gated resort lifestyle luxury communities.


--FT



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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Naaa, I think they are just extracting revenge on those who rouse 
rabbles and fight the freeway!



Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 9:03 PM
Well my power came back on 5ish, I waited a coupla hours then took a 
nice lng hot shower!


Da po folks ovah heah in da woods takin back seat ta da rich white 
folk over in the prestigious gated resort lifestyle luxury communities.


--FT



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Re: [MBZ] PnP goodness

[clay via Mercedes]

The counter dame was under informed.  She had hassled me when I came back in 
with my tool box, trying to get me to pay entry again.  

I got the rubber seal that lives between the AC exchange and radiator, the 
plastic hinge covers for front seats and the panel for all of $12.59.  The 
panel should have cost $89.00 based on the price list.  Had I taken the whole 
1/4 panel, it would have been $178.00

clay

> On Oct 11, 2016, at 7:00 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> How much did they charge you?
> 
> --FT
> 
> 
> On 10/11/16 7:28 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
>> There was very little of the goodness this day.  I picked up a rental 
>> cordless sawzall to liberate the driver side rear fender to be able to 
>> repair the hole in Polei.  The yard I wanted to do the work in turned out to 
>> have scrapped the car the day before and placed an orange volvo from the 
>> early 70’s instead.  That meant I had to go to the overpriced jungle monkey 
>> yard that had the 350 SDL.
>> 
>> This bad yard is run by a mega local steel (steal) industry.  They have 
>> dames running the front end and they have no idea what they are selling.  
>> There is a corporate price list that is pretty steep and outlines just about 
>> anything that might be pulled from a car.   Down to t-shirts, coats and 
>> minutia.  This is for USED parts that are worn, not newer stuff I could get 
>> on FleaBay.  The pricing is almost comparable to the Fleabay price.  Why 
>> would I want a bust ass used part when I could pay retail?
>> 
>> The other drawback is that the denizens of the yard have very limited tool 
>> usage ability.  I think most tools are large rocks, sticks and impacts.  I 
>> am not joking.  Maybe they bring a crowbar, a BFH and a pocket full of 
>> gravel, based on the massive damage done to the valve cover and most of the 
>> engine bay on the poor car.  I found one window that still had unbroken 
>> glass, the lights were smashed, ripped interior and destroyed dash.  And 
>> that is typical of most of the cars in the lot!
>> 
>> I was able to fire up the saw, cut the metal with a modicum of ability so as 
>> to liberate a section large enough to cut down to size… then the blade 
>> broke.  I was sure I had spares in the tool box, but found I did not.  I did 
>> have a can of penetrating lube that had let go into the box which left a 
>> puddle of slop on my tools.  I had one inch to go to liberate the panel, and 
>> ended up doing it by hand with a hack saw blade.  I will clean the panel up 
>> and put weld through primer on it so it does not rust while awaiting 
>> installation.
>> 
>> 
>> clay
>> 
>> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
>> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
>> 1986 SDL - Polei
>> 
>> retired models-
>> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
>> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
>> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
>> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> -- 
> --FT
> 
> 
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Well my power came back on 5ish, I waited a coupla hours then took a 
nice lng hot shower!


Da po folks ovah heah in da woods takin back seat ta da rich white folk 
over in the prestigious gated resort lifestyle luxury communities.


--FT


On 10/11/16 8:11 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote:

Solar shower. Black bag, put on roof, fill with hose, wait. Cheap and
cheerful.

On Oct 11, 2016 4:44 PM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" 
wrote:


Remember the show Green Acres?  I can shower with just the little genny if
I turn off everything else while the tank heats up.  But it's a pain.

-- Jim
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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] PnP goodness

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

How much did they charge you?

--FT


On 10/11/16 7:28 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:

There was very little of the goodness this day.  I picked up a rental cordless 
sawzall to liberate the driver side rear fender to be able to repair the hole 
in Polei.  The yard I wanted to do the work in turned out to have scrapped the 
car the day before and placed an orange volvo from the early 70’s instead.  
That meant I had to go to the overpriced jungle monkey yard that had the 350 
SDL.

This bad yard is run by a mega local steel (steal) industry.  They have dames 
running the front end and they have no idea what they are selling.  There is a 
corporate price list that is pretty steep and outlines just about anything that 
might be pulled from a car.   Down to t-shirts, coats and minutia.  This is for 
USED parts that are worn, not newer stuff I could get on FleaBay.  The pricing 
is almost comparable to the Fleabay price.  Why would I want a bust ass used 
part when I could pay retail?

The other drawback is that the denizens of the yard have very limited tool 
usage ability.  I think most tools are large rocks, sticks and impacts.  I am 
not joking.  Maybe they bring a crowbar, a BFH and a pocket full of gravel, 
based on the massive damage done to the valve cover and most of the engine bay 
on the poor car.  I found one window that still had unbroken glass, the lights 
were smashed, ripped interior and destroyed dash.  And that is typical of most 
of the cars in the lot!

I was able to fire up the saw, cut the metal with a modicum of ability so as to 
liberate a section large enough to cut down to size… then the blade broke.  I 
was sure I had spares in the tool box, but found I did not.  I did have a can 
of penetrating lube that had let go into the box which left a puddle of slop on 
my tools.  I had one inch to go to liberate the panel, and ended up doing it by 
hand with a hack saw blade.  I will clean the panel up and put weld through 
primer on it so it does not rust while awaiting installation.


clay

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei

retired models-
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Germany may outlaw gas/diesel cars

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I just love it when the hybrid hypocrites in their preii go flying by me 
at 85 or 90 on the interstate..."showing the world how they are saving 
the planet and show the mere mortals how superior they are."



Bah!  Pass the Dissel fuul, please!

archer75--- via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 4:27 PM
I posted this as a news clipping of possible interest to the group.
I agree with you.
However, they seem to be talking about "pure" gas burners and diesels 
while still allowing hybrids. As you know, a hybrid will make about 
any trip you choose.

Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] Germany may outlaw gas/diesel cars

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

This sounds like a great way to suppress rugged individualism and shift
power to governments.  

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of G
> Mann via Mercedes
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 2:48 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Cc: G Mann 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Germany may outlaw gas/diesel cars
> 
> Tell you what... try this, now, or in 20 years... come to Arizona and
drive from
> Flagstaff to Tucson in your electric car, or continue on South to
Mexico and
> tour Mexico with your electric car.
> 
> Take a vacation with your family, full luggage, the dog, and drive from
your
> Eastern "safe zone" to California, using your electric car.
> 
> This is America, it's big, people drive hundreds of miles per week, always
in a
> rush. They don't have time or patience to "plug in and wait" nor do they
have
> a place to do that.
> 
> Utopia and Unicorns... Sorry to rain on your parade. Oil became king
because
> it was and is easily available. A viable replacement has not been invented
or
> brought to market now or in the foreseeable future. It's being thought
about,
> worked on, but it's not here any time soon. BS legislation won't make it
> happen any faster.
> 
> I respect that your personal view may be different..
> 
> On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 11:37 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> > (From a Solar List)
> >
> > > Germany calling for ban on all gas/diesel cars by 2030:
> >
> > > http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1106594_german-upper-
> > house-asks-eu-to-ban-all-gas-diesel-cars-by-2030
> >
> > > And if that catches on, it will be an avalanche of abandonment of
> > > gas cars.  Faster than even 2030, because no one will want to buy a
> > > dead end vehicle as the deadline approaches.
> > >
> > > We are at the precipice of the end of gas cars.  People need to
> > > realize that the EV and Plug-in Hybrid is here to stay.  And they
> > > are better, faster, cleaner, cheaper to buy, cheaper to operate and
> > > cheaper to
> > maintain
> > > than gas cars.  Its just the public is not aware of that yet.
> >
> > ---
> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Solar shower. Black bag, put on roof, fill with hose, wait. Cheap and
cheerful.

On Oct 11, 2016 4:44 PM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Remember the show Green Acres?  I can shower with just the little genny if
> I turn off everything else while the tank heats up.  But it's a pain.
>
> -- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

Remember the show Green Acres?  I can shower with just the little genny if
I turn off everything else while the tank heats up.  But it's a pain.

-- Jim
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[MBZ] PnP goodness

[clay via Mercedes]

There was very little of the goodness this day.  I picked up a rental cordless 
sawzall to liberate the driver side rear fender to be able to repair the hole 
in Polei.  The yard I wanted to do the work in turned out to have scrapped the 
car the day before and placed an orange volvo from the early 70’s instead.  
That meant I had to go to the overpriced jungle monkey yard that had the 350 
SDL.

This bad yard is run by a mega local steel (steal) industry.  They have dames 
running the front end and they have no idea what they are selling.  There is a 
corporate price list that is pretty steep and outlines just about anything that 
might be pulled from a car.   Down to t-shirts, coats and minutia.  This is for 
USED parts that are worn, not newer stuff I could get on FleaBay.  The pricing 
is almost comparable to the Fleabay price.  Why would I want a bust ass used 
part when I could pay retail?

The other drawback is that the denizens of the yard have very limited tool 
usage ability.  I think most tools are large rocks, sticks and impacts.  I am 
not joking.  Maybe they bring a crowbar, a BFH and a pocket full of gravel, 
based on the massive damage done to the valve cover and most of the engine bay 
on the poor car.  I found one window that still had unbroken glass, the lights 
were smashed, ripped interior and destroyed dash.  And that is typical of most 
of the cars in the lot!

I was able to fire up the saw, cut the metal with a modicum of ability so as to 
liberate a section large enough to cut down to size… then the blade broke.  I 
was sure I had spares in the tool box, but found I did not.  I did have a can 
of penetrating lube that had let go into the box which left a puddle of slop on 
my tools.  I had one inch to go to liberate the panel, and ended up doing it by 
hand with a hack saw blade.  I will clean the panel up and put weld through 
primer on it so it does not rust while awaiting installation.


clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei

retired models-
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] Germany may outlaw gas/diesel cars

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

I posted this as a news clipping of possible interest to the group.
I agree with you.
However, they seem to be talking about "pure" gas burners and diesels while 
still allowing hybrids. As you know, a hybrid will make about any trip you 
choose.
Gerry
~~~
On Tue, 11 Oct 2016 11:47:52 -0700
G Mann via Mercedes  wrote:

> Tell you what... try this, now, or in 20 years... come to Arizona and drive
> from Flagstaff to Tucson in your electric car, or continue on South to
> Mexico and tour Mexico with your electric car.
> 
> Take a vacation with your family, full luggage, the dog, and drive from
> your Eastern "safe zone" to California, using your electric car.
> 
> This is America, it's big, people drive hundreds of miles per week, always
> in a rush. They don't have time or patience to "plug in and wait" nor do
> they have a place to do that.
> 
> Utopia and Unicorns... Sorry to rain on your parade. Oil became king
> because it was and is easily available. A viable replacement has not been
> invented or brought to market now or in the foreseeable future. It's being
> thought about, worked on, but it's not here any time soon. BS legislation
> won't make it happen any faster.
> 
> I respect that your personal view may be different..
> 
> On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 11:37 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> > (From a Solar List)
> >
> > > Germany calling for ban on all gas/diesel cars by 2030:
> >
> > > http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1106594_german-upper-
> > house-asks-eu-to-ban-all-gas-diesel-cars-by-2030
> >
> > > And if that catches on, it will be an avalanche of abandonment of gas
> > > cars.  Faster than even 2030, because no one will want to buy a dead end
> > > vehicle as the deadline approaches.
> > >
> > > We are at the precipice of the end of gas cars.  People need to realize
> > > that the EV and Plug-in Hybrid is here to stay.  And they are better,
> > > faster, cleaner, cheaper to buy, cheaper to operate and cheaper to
> > maintain
> > > than gas cars.  Its just the public is not aware of that yet.
> >
> > ---
> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
> >
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-- 
arche...@embarqmail.com 

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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[WILTON via Mercedes]

Yes, familiar with Navy shwr; didn't make it any better.

W

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 

To: "Mercedes List" 
Cc: "Dan Penoff" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Matthew


Sounds like you’re doing a lot better than others up your way. Glad to 
hear your power is still on and you’re not having to bail it out by hand…


Ever heard of a “Navy shower?”  Not fun, but it works.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navy_shower

Dan


On Oct 11, 2016, at 10:52 AM, WILTON via Mercedes  
wrote:


Water still seeping into my basement.  'Removed original accumulation by
early Sun evening via 1¼" strong and steady stream.  I was then able to
re-establish the pump in sump by boiler in middle of basement; slow but
steady stream via garden hose since then.  'Depth holding at about ½" on 
bsmnt floor.


We've been lucky to have not lost power.  Power still out in much of the
city.  Dangerous driving with many traffic signals inop.

'Water heater and burner/blower for heating system boiler still inop.

'Had very short cold shower this morning.  'Figured it might not be as 
bad
as the 34-degree lake water the Danes threw me into at the July 4th party 
in

'78.  Well, it was close.

Wilt

- Original Message - From: "Mitch Haley via Mercedes" 


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Cc: "Mitch Haley" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Matthew


I wonder if it's worth having both a submersible and a pedestal in the 
same

hole
if there's room for the bases. Each pump would need its own one way 
valve

before
teeing the pipes together, but if you set the pedestal to come on an 
inch

higher
than the submersible you'd be covered for any failure of the submersible
(but
not for total power failure).

When I put my new furnace in, I set in on 11" stacks of concrete blocks.
When I added the indoor coil for a heat pump 2 years later, I had to 
ditch

the
blocks to make room for the extra height. Now it sits on 3/4" of rubber
patio
pavers. It turns out my sump never rises above floor level in power
failures,
but sometimes rainwater seeps into the basement opposite the sump, and
runs past
the furnace to the sump, usually when I forget to replace the outspouts
for the
gutters after I mow the yard.

Mitch.



On October 9, 2016 at 12:35 PM WILTON via Mercedes

wrote:


14" water in basement;


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Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I've cut up old hedge posts with a chain saw.  Sharp chain = no 
problem.  Dull chain gets duller FAST!  Same thing when cutting up dry 
Merkun Elm after the Dutch Elm disease plague.  I saw lotsa sparks from 
the saw chain.


Honey Locust is an intermediate hardness.  Nice to work, and much like 
oak when green.  Close to being like aluminum to machine when dry.  
Retains a yellow color when dry.  Nasty tree to have growing on your 
land.  I kill them anytime I get a chance.   Some I've seen had thorns 
easily big enough to kill you.



Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 2:56 PM
That's good info, everything I have read says it is killer on tools.

Waiting for Don to send some to try it!

--R




fmiser via Mercedes 
October 11, 2016 at 2:21 AM

Not true, at least not from my experience.

It's hard. It's dense. But I cut it with my standard chain saw
chain. I've cut it green and cut it dry (> two years sitting
out). It's certainly harder to whittle than maple, red oak, white
oak, or hickory.

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Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
October 10, 2016 at 6:53 PM
Problem with all the chainsaw "advise" is that that osage orange wood 
is hard as hell when green and when it dries it basically cannot be 
cut with much of anything, even carbide blades.  That's why it makes 
great wood planes and things like that, if you get it when it is 
workable.


I can't remember if it is like teak with lots of mineral content or if 
it just hard and dense.


--FT




G Mann via Mercedes 
October 10, 2016 at 5:14 PM
Keep the chain sharp, and keep it well lubricated. A dull chain heats up
fast, a poorly lubricated chain heats up fast.

Hot chain stretches, runs loose in the blade guides, which makes the chain
wobble so it doesn't bite into the wood at the correct angle, which dulls
the blade more quickly descending spiral of success.

Sharp teeth, properly tension ed on the blade and properly lubed [if your
saw has an "automatic chain lube feature" it's seldom getting enough lube
for wood as hard as Osage Orange.] I much prefer the manual chain lube
equipped saws.

Best advise I can give you on when to sharpen your saw is to look at the
chips coming out of the cut. When your saw is razor sharp and freshly
sharpened, look at those chips.. use them as the "benchmark" look, as the
teeth dull, the saw will work harder to do less work and the chips will
tell you "time to stop and sharpen the teeth..

Osage Orange is one of the hardest woods to machine.. it's grain is close
and tight. Good luck.



On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 2:54 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
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Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
October 10, 2016 at 4:54 PM
If you don't have one, get a file to sharpen that chain.  Must be the right
diameter and you need to know the angle (you can get cheap, easy guides that
attach to the file).  It only takes a few minutes to sharpen a chain and a
sharpened chain will cut like new.  I learned this the hard way after
several FL panhandle hurricanes.  If you watch a real tree pro, they will
have the helper sharpen the chains every hour or so.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
Donald Snook via Mercedes
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16 PM
To: Floyd Thursby;
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Donald Snook
Subject: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

I don't have any yet.  I just about ruined the chain on my chain saw

cutting off

some of the larger limbs.   This wood is HARD and dense.  I am trying to

cut

off as much as I can to thin them out and maybe I'll be able to get them

cut

down later.  My 5 year old son's favorite activity now is having a fire.

I have a

fire pit and for the last few weeks we have a fire every weekend burning

all

the small sticks and limbs that I have collected over the last few years.

I had

several logs from a hedge tree I cut down 4-5 years ago next to my shed.
Along with the hedge logs, I had some logs from a sweet gum tree and a
maple.  The hedge logs were solid and dense whereas the gum and maple
logs were soft and half disintegrated.

Don Snook

-Original Message-
From: Floyd Thursby [mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 10:49 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Latest track

Speaking of osage orange wood, how'd those chunks work 

Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

That's good info, everything I have read says it is killer on tools.

Waiting for Don to send some to try it!

--R


On 10/11/16 3:21 AM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:

Floyd wrote:

Problem with all the chainsaw "advise" is that that osage orange
wood is hard as hell when green and when it dries it basically
cannot be cut with much of anything, even carbide blades.  That's
why it makes great wood planes and things like that, if you get
it when it is workable.

Not true, at least not from my experience.

It's hard.  It's dense.  But I cut it with my standard chain saw
chain.  I've cut it green and cut it dry (> two years sitting
out).  It's certainly harder to whittle than maple, red oak, white
oak, or hickory.

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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] 1975 280C on BAT

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

People don’t seem to have the love for the coupes the they do for the sedans.  
I’m betting this goes for around $5000.

Dan

> On Oct 11, 2016, at 2:33 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Finished in a less than attractive beige exterior with an almost matching
> beige interior.  Currently offered at $1100.  What's to love?
> 
> Yet...  this should be worth MORE than a 1970 280S sedan, which is just 5
> years older and less collectible (in theory, at least) because it's a sedan
> and not a coupe.
> 
> I expect the hammer price to be $9900.
> 
> Other fearless predicitons?
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I had to size pipe for natural gas on a regular basis, so I’m quite familiar 
with flow rates and pressure drops due to pipe lengths.  3” pipe would have 
probably been OK for this application, but as you mentioned, it’s cheap and 
easy to over engineer, not to mention far better when it might make the 
difference between having an indoor swimming pool or not.

There’s a PS to this story, too.

The people who bought the house from us put an in-ground swimming pool in (the 
kiss of death, this was Indianapolis!) and in doing so, bisected the line 
between the sump and catch basin.  Neighbors told us they saw the contractor 
dig it up and pull it out, not knowing what it was.  They said it didn’t appear 
that they repaired or replaced it.

Pretty exciting for them when the rainy season started in the spring.  I’m 
wondering if the basement flooded (again.)

Dan


> On Oct 11, 2016, at 2:56 PM, fmiser via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
>> Dan wrote:
>> 
>> Your setup would work, but I would definitely size the combined
>> outlet pipe for the total volume of both pumps.
> 
> I agree.  Also consider the "resistance" of the pipe, more so the
> longer the pipe is.
> 
>> In my former house in Indiana I had dual sumps, both with
>> submersible pumps that went into a 2” PVC “Y”, up roughly 10’ and
>> out the side of the foundation at ground level.  
> 
>> If both pumps went off at the same time, which was certainly
>> possible during times of heavy rains, there was no way both could
>> push their combined rated capacity out through the 2” pipe.  What
>> the original builder/plumber should have done was to increase the
>> size of the pipe from 2” to at least 4” at the outlet of the “Y”
>> and continued out and down to the catch basin with 4” pipe.
> 
> For what it's worth, a 3" pipe has more than twice the flow
> capacity of a 2" pipe. 
> 
>> This setup had a double whammy - the volume of the pumps exceeded
>> the capacity of the 2” pipe, AND, the 150’ run of pipe from the
>> house to the catch basin couldn’t handle the capacity of both
>> pumps due to the restriction it presented.
> 
> Was it adequate for just one?  If so, then a 3" pipe would be
> sufficient.  But if it were my house that would be getting all wet,
> I would oversizes, overbuild, and over-engineer. *grin*
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:
> 
> Your setup would work, but I would definitely size the combined
> outlet pipe for the total volume of both pumps.

I agree.  Also consider the "resistance" of the pipe, more so the
longer the pipe is.

> In my former house in Indiana I had dual sumps, both with
> submersible pumps that went into a 2” PVC “Y”, up roughly 10’ and
> out the side of the foundation at ground level.  

> If both pumps went off at the same time, which was certainly
> possible during times of heavy rains, there was no way both could
> push their combined rated capacity out through the 2” pipe.  What
> the original builder/plumber should have done was to increase the
> size of the pipe from 2” to at least 4” at the outlet of the “Y”
> and continued out and down to the catch basin with 4” pipe.

For what it's worth, a 3" pipe has more than twice the flow
capacity of a 2" pipe. 

> This setup had a double whammy - the volume of the pumps exceeded
> the capacity of the 2” pipe, AND, the 150’ run of pipe from the
> house to the catch basin couldn’t handle the capacity of both
> pumps due to the restriction it presented.

Was it adequate for just one?  If so, then a 3" pipe would be
sufficient.  But if it were my house that would be getting all wet,
I would oversizes, overbuild, and over-engineer. *grin*

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Re: [MBZ] Germany may outlaw gas/diesel cars

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Maybe they are getting tired of supporting the countries that are 
sending Germany so many of their citizens and co-religionists.


I did see this the other day and briefly noted it.  Didn't the former 
commie Angie shut down the nukes a few years ago after the tsunamis in 
Japan?  So now they have CFPPs and windmills for their power, and I 
recall there being some issues among the industrial sector about that 
supply stability.


--FT


On 10/11/16 2:47 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Tell you what... try this, now, or in 20 years... come to Arizona and drive
from Flagstaff to Tucson in your electric car, or continue on South to
Mexico and tour Mexico with your electric car.

Take a vacation with your family, full luggage, the dog, and drive from
your Eastern "safe zone" to California, using your electric car.

This is America, it's big, people drive hundreds of miles per week, always
in a rush. They don't have time or patience to "plug in and wait" nor do
they have a place to do that.

Utopia and Unicorns... Sorry to rain on your parade. Oil became king
because it was and is easily available. A viable replacement has not been
invented or brought to market now or in the foreseeable future. It's being
thought about, worked on, but it's not here any time soon. BS legislation
won't make it happen any faster.

I respect that your personal view may be different..

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 11:37 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


(From a Solar List)


Germany calling for ban on all gas/diesel cars by 2030:
http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1106594_german-upper-

house-asks-eu-to-ban-all-gas-diesel-cars-by-2030


And if that catches on, it will be an avalanche of abandonment of gas
cars.  Faster than even 2030, because no one will want to buy a dead end
vehicle as the deadline approaches.

We are at the precipice of the end of gas cars.  People need to realize
that the EV and Plug-in Hybrid is here to stay.  And they are better,
faster, cleaner, cheaper to buy, cheaper to operate and cheaper to

maintain

than gas cars.  Its just the public is not aware of that yet.

---
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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Germany may outlaw gas/diesel cars

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 11/10/2016 1:47 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Tell you what... try this, now, or in 20 years... come to Arizona and drive
from Flagstaff to Tucson in your electric car, or continue on South to
Mexico and tour Mexico with your electric car.

Take a vacation with your family, full luggage, the dog, and drive from
your Eastern "safe zone" to California, using your electric car.

This is America, it's big, people drive hundreds of miles per week, always
in a rush. They don't have time or patience to "plug in and wait" nor do
they have a place to do that.

Utopia and Unicorns... Sorry to rain on your parade. Oil became king
because it was and is easily available. A viable replacement has not been
invented or brought to market now or in the foreseeable future. It's being
thought about, worked on, but it's not here any time soon. BS legislation
won't make it happen any faster.

I respect that your personal view may be different..



And, how quickly will one run the battery down using electric heat in 
the vehicle? Much of the USA and pretty much all of Canada is cold and 
dark in the winter.
I am in Winnipeg. It will be dark here at 4:00 in the afternoon from the 
end of November until around the middle of January. It may also be -20 
for much of that time.
I have my doubts on the ability of the electric car to handle the cold, 
along with the heating load and the lighting loads.


And, much of the world does not have the grid capacity to re-charge all 
of these electric cars.


And, much of the world uses coal to make the electricity to charge the 
cars. Not as clean as the gasoline car is today.


So, this sounds a bit like flying cars that were predicted in the 50's.

RB

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Re: [MBZ] Germany may outlaw gas/diesel cars

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Tell you what... try this, now, or in 20 years... come to Arizona and drive
from Flagstaff to Tucson in your electric car, or continue on South to
Mexico and tour Mexico with your electric car.

Take a vacation with your family, full luggage, the dog, and drive from
your Eastern "safe zone" to California, using your electric car.

This is America, it's big, people drive hundreds of miles per week, always
in a rush. They don't have time or patience to "plug in and wait" nor do
they have a place to do that.

Utopia and Unicorns... Sorry to rain on your parade. Oil became king
because it was and is easily available. A viable replacement has not been
invented or brought to market now or in the foreseeable future. It's being
thought about, worked on, but it's not here any time soon. BS legislation
won't make it happen any faster.

I respect that your personal view may be different..

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 11:37 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> (From a Solar List)
>
> > Germany calling for ban on all gas/diesel cars by 2030:
>
> > http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1106594_german-upper-
> house-asks-eu-to-ban-all-gas-diesel-cars-by-2030
>
> > And if that catches on, it will be an avalanche of abandonment of gas
> > cars.  Faster than even 2030, because no one will want to buy a dead end
> > vehicle as the deadline approaches.
> >
> > We are at the precipice of the end of gas cars.  People need to realize
> > that the EV and Plug-in Hybrid is here to stay.  And they are better,
> > faster, cleaner, cheaper to buy, cheaper to operate and cheaper to
> maintain
> > than gas cars.  Its just the public is not aware of that yet.
>
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Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Our Lowcountry palmetto bugs probably would eat those things for 
breakfast, lunch, and supper then come back for more the next day.


--FT


On 10/11/16 2:26 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

A test conducted at Iowa State University determined that
volatile oils contained in Osage orange fruits do stop German cockroaches
and the maize weevil from crossing areas coated with those oils.


--
--FT


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[MBZ] Germany may outlaw gas/diesel cars

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

(From a Solar List)

> Germany calling for ban on all gas/diesel cars by 2030:

> http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1106594_german-upper-house-asks-eu-to-ban-all-gas-diesel-cars-by-2030
 
> And if that catches on, it will be an avalanche of abandonment of gas
> cars.  Faster than even 2030, because no one will want to buy a dead end
> vehicle as the deadline approaches.
> 
> We are at the precipice of the end of gas cars.  People need to realize
> that the EV and Plug-in Hybrid is here to stay.  And they are better,
> faster, cleaner, cheaper to buy, cheaper to operate and cheaper to maintain
> than gas cars.  Its just the public is not aware of that yet.

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[MBZ] 1975 280C on BAT

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Finished in a less than attractive beige exterior with an almost matching
beige interior.  Currently offered at $1100.  What's to love?

Yet...  this should be worth MORE than a 1970 280S sedan, which is just 5
years older and less collectible (in theory, at least) because it's a sedan
and not a coupe.

I expect the hammer price to be $9900.

Other fearless predicitons?
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Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Great discussion!  Here's what I learned about the fruits:
http://www.gardenguides.com/109522-uses-osage-orange-fruits.html

"But while the use of the osage orange trees in a hedgerow or as a superb
crafting wood is well known, fewer people realize that their large, bumpy
fruits--also known as a hedge apples or horse apples--contain their own
useful properties.
Pest Repellent

More anecdotal testimony than scientific data exists on the legendary
effectiveness of the "hedge apple" to deter pests of all kinds from the home.
Those anecdotes, however, cover a wide range of pests, from cockroaches to
mice to wolf spiders. A traditional way of employing the Osage orange
involves putting the fruits around the exterior foundation and in
basements. A test conducted at Iowa State University determined that
volatile oils contained in Osage orange fruits do stop German cockroaches
and the maize weevil from crossing areas coated with those oils. Later
studies at the same university concluded that the volatile oils contained
the isoflavones osajin and pomiferin. Whether the fruits themselves are as
effective as the oils produced from pressing them has yet to be determined.



Pottery Glaze

Ceramic artists burn the Osage orange fruit to collect the ash. Potters
place a hedge apple directly in an unfired bowl or on a flat pottery piece
before it goes into the kiln to achieve a "halo" effect of red and orange
circles. Hedgeapples.com suggests setting the kiln to "cone 10" for best
results.
Crafts

Osage oranges add intrigue to dried floral arrangements and wreaths. Dry
them whole, halved or in slices for 30 minutes to several hours in a low
oven or dehydrator. Once all moisture has been removed from the Osage
oranges and they've cooled, run a florist's wire through the fruits and
attach them to a wreath. Fasten them to a sturdy branch in a vertical
arrangement, or add a ribbon to hang them from a holiday tree. Or place
whole, dried fruits in a holiday bowl in groups or interspersed with fruit
pomanders. Hedgeapples.com suggests making unique decorative bowls by
cutting the fruits in half, molding them around a ball of aluminum foil and
drying them in the oven for several days with the pilot light on.
Animal Feed

A 2007 study conducted by Lipid Corps. to determine the nutritional value
of Osage orange seeds found that the seeds contain significant amounts of
protein and carbohydrates as well as potassium, calcium and magnesium.
While the study was undertaken to determine Osage orange seeds' commercial
viability, potentially home harvesters can use the fruits to feed their own
farm animals or pets. A veterinarian should be consulted before adding the
seeds to any animal's diet.
Promising Medicine

The two isoflavones believed to act as effective pest repellants--osajin
and pomiferin--may also be promising antioxidants. A 2003 study conducted
by the Food Research Program at Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada found
these two antioxidants were comparable in effectiveness to vitamins C and
E, also antioxidants, in helping protect the body from environmental
stresses that make the body vulnerable to cancer. The isoflavens need to be
extracted and isolated from the non-edible Osage orange, making it a
potential medicinal supplement but currently impractical as a
home-harvested remedy. Still, in the long list of uses of the versatile
Osage orange, its slowly unfolding medical potential may prove the most
"useful" of all."

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 2:00 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Bow staves need to be laser straight grained if you want to make a good
> longbow.
>
>
> I would think gun stocks should have some 'figure' in the grain, unless
> you're
> using Osage to handle stout recoil, like an African safari rifle or
> "elephant
> gun".
>
> Mitch.
>
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Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

Father made bows for me when I was a child/teenager during WW-2 and before, but 
I don't remember them being made of osage orange. Hickory? 
I was frequently warned about eating "hedge apples", so osage orange must have 
been present. 

~~
On Tue, 11 Oct 2016 14:00:02 -0400 (EDT)
Mitch Haley via Mercedes  wrote:

> Bow staves need to be laser straight grained if you want to make a good 
> longbow.
> 
> 
> I would think gun stocks should have some 'figure' in the grain, unless you're
> using Osage to handle stout recoil, like an African safari rifle or "elephant
> gun".
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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> 


-- 
arche...@embarqmail.com 

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Re: [MBZ] If You Want Stupid, Here It Is

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Formerly driven by Paul Newman?

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 10:26 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Should be a capital offense.
>
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> 1982 300CD
> 1990 300D
> Wickford RI
>
> On Oct 11, 2016 8:23 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
> wrote:
>
> > http://bringatrailer.com/2016/10/10/konigsflosse-1963-
> > mercedes-benz-300-se-rally/
> >
> > Uh, yeah.  I think not.
> >
> > Dan
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

Bow staves need to be laser straight grained if you want to make a good longbow.


I would think gun stocks should have some 'figure' in the grain, unless you're
using Osage to handle stout recoil, like an African safari rifle or "elephant
gun".

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I'm sure that's the case. A single stage requires a lot more finish work to 
make it nice, which is also a function of doing a good job to begin with.

Dan

> On Oct 11, 2016, at 1:05 PM, Donald Snook via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Isn't it because single stage is so much harder to do because with a base and 
> clear, you don't have to do as good a job with the base.  The clear does all 
> the work.  I'm not suggesting this is a good thing, but lower quality shops 
> don't want to put the work into a single stage. 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:ka...@striplin.net] 
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 7:12 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bonehead
> 
> I have not heard that but then again I don't deal with body shops too often. 
> I find it very hard to believe nobody does single stage anymore. You probably 
> need to look for another body shop.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 11, 2016, at 5:41 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Heh.  Not quite a Kleb car yet.  Just means I’ll have to find something 
>> nicer and hand this down to the youngest boy.
>> 
>> Truth be told, with the exception of the rubbing into the paint on the edge 
>> of the taillight opening I’m betting I can Martha this right out of the 
>> finish, which is what I’ll do.  The body shop I talked to yesterday wants to 
>> do two stage paint for some weird reason - they were adamant that no one 
>> does single stage paint any more, which I find strange and slightly suspect.
>> 
>> Anyone here heard such stories?
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 10, 2016, at 9:02 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Give you $500 for it. Seriously glad you had,an honest hitter.
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> 1982 300CD
>>> 1990 300D
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
>>> On Oct 10, 2016 8:50 PM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" 
>>> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Ouch, that's no fun to deal with.  Poor car is ruined, guess you'll 
 have to sell now...
 
 
 I call dibs!
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
 
 On October 10, 2016 7:04:53 PM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes < 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I park in a parking garage at my office.  The space I park in is 
> one of two that are sandwiched between two block walls.  There is 
> room for two vehicles to fit in the area without having to squeeze out of 
> the door.
> I normally park well to thIsn't it because single stage is so much harder 
> to do because with a base and clear, you don't have to do as good a job 
> with the base.  The clear does all the work.  I'm not suggesting this is 
> a good thing, but lower quality shops don't want to put the work into a 
> single stage. 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:ka...@striplin.net] 
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 7:12 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bonehead
> 
> I have not heard that but then again I don't deal with body shops too often. 
> I find it very hard to believe nobody does single stage anymore. You probably 
> need to look for another body shop.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 11, 2016, at 5:41 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Heh.  Not quite a Kleb car yet.  Just means I’ll have to find something 
>> nicer and hand this down to the youngest boy.
>> 
>> Truth be told, with the exception of the rubbing into the paint on the edge 
>> of the taillight opening I’m betting I can Martha this right out of the 
>> finish, which is what I’ll do.  The body shop I talked to yesterday wants to 
>> do two stage paint for some weird reason - they were adamant that no one 
>> does single stage paint any more, which I find strange and slightly suspect.
>> 
>> Anyone here heard such stories?
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 10, 2016, at 9:02 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Give you $500 for it. Seriously glad you had,an honest hitter.
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> 1982 300CD
>>> 1990 300D
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
>>> On Oct 10, 2016 8:50 PM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" 
>>> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Ouch, that's no fun to deal with.  Poor car is ruined, guess you'll 
 have to sell now...
 
 
 I call dibs!
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
 
 On October 10, 2016 7:04:53 PM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes < 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I park in a parking garage at my office.  The space I park in is 
> one of two that are sandwiched between two block walls.  There is 
> room for two vehicles to fit in the area without having to squeeze out of 
> the door.
> I normally park well to the right against a wall so the person in 
> the 

Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

More frustrating because this guy's behavior (his inability to park correctly) 
was a definite precursor to what happened. There's no question in my mind that 
this was 100% preventable.

I'll do the "shock and awe" with the initial estimate, then segue into the 
lower one. Again, if I can net $550 to cover my costs I would be happy.  I have 
no desire to punish him, rip him off, or be a jerk.

Dan

> On Oct 11, 2016, at 12:52 PM, Donald Snook  wrote:
> 
> Very frustrating.  But, at least the guy is honest.   Even if he has to turn 
> it over to the insurance, you don't have to have them repair it.  You can 
> take the check and find the part yourself.   I'm very surprised the paint 
> work isn't more expensive! 
> 
> I was at an estate sale recently and somebody (I'm assuming an old person in 
> a big car) backed into my car and busted the turn signal and left a quarter 
> size dent on the fender near the light.  No note.   People can be a holes.  
> So, I am glad this guy stepped up. 
> 
> Don Snook 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Dan Penoff [mailto:d...@penoff.com] 
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 6:05 PM
> To: Mercedes List 
> Subject: [MBZ] Bonehead
> 
> I park in a parking garage at my office.  The space I park in is one of two 
> that are sandwiched between two block walls.  There is room for two vehicles 
> to fit in the area without having to squeeze out of the door.  I normally 
> park well to the right against a wall so the person in the other space has 
> plenty of room. This is usually another employee I work with, or if they’re 
> late, some guy with a big red Dodge pickup truck, who swings wide because he 
> won’t back up and straighten out to pull into the space.
> 
> So today as I’m pulling out of my garage I hear a big “pop” sound and realize 
> I forgot to clear a plastic container with a set of old H4 bulbs in it.  
> Realizing that the metal part of the bulb might have damaged my right front 
> tire, when I pulled into my parking space this morning I moved towards the 
> middle of the space, evenly spacing my car between the yellow lines, with a 
> good 8”-12” on each side of the car between the car and the painted lines.  
> That way if I had to change a tire should it have been damaged and leaked 
> down during the day I can get to that side of the car.
> 
> Wife had doctor’s appointment I was attending, so about 9:40 I go down to get 
> in the car.  There’s a note stuffed in the gap between my doors:
> 
> "Sorry, but I scrapped (sic) against your car this morning.  It doesn’t look 
> bad, but please let me know what to do and I’ll work things out with you.” 
> (phone number)
> 
> Arrgh.
> 
> Left rear quarter is scuffed and left rear taillight is cracked.  When I got 
> it out in the sun I could see a dimple in the middle of the panel.  The 
> trailing edge of the fender where the tail light opening starts has the paint 
> rubbed down to the primer.  I took plenty of pictures of my car, its’ 
> position and the big red truck, which was clearly swung way over into my 
> space when it pulled in and had black paint on the bumper where it had rubbed 
> against my car.
> 
> So I called the guy and he was pretty contrite.  He said if it was below his 
> deductible he would just give me the money, otherwise I could file a claim 
> with his insurer.  I told him to put it in writing in an email, which he did, 
> even admitting fault and including his insurance contact information and 
> policy number. (Nice!)
> 
> So I went to the local ding and dent place, a chain called “Carsmetics”, for 
> a quick estimate.
> 
> Around $475 for the paint work. LKQ has no left rear taillights for my car, 
> so the only other choice they have is to go with new from MBUSA.
> 
> +$1100.00!!!
> 
> I had them write up an estimate with and without the tail light.  I’m 
> thinking if his deductible is $500 I’ll ask him for $550 and I’ll source the 
> tail light assembly (easily found on eBay for $60-$80.)
> 
> But only after I give him the $1700.00 estimate.
> 
> Dan
> 


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Re: [MBZ] 140 3.2 Opinion

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Yes nice 140 diesels are very hard to find but that does not make them worth 
more unless the right person is desperate enough to want one to pay the money. 
You can get a nice cdi for that money.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2016, at 11:48 AM, Donald Snook via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dan wrote:
> 
> "The 3.2 liter in the W140 is fine. I would encourage you to test drive the 
> car and see for yourself.
> I considered a 1997 S320 last year.  It was the first one I ever drove, and I 
> took it out on the interstate and thrashed it with all the accessories on and 
> it was fine.  Granted, it wouldn't chirp tires like my S500 would, but it did 
> not seem underpowered or anemic.
> $10k is way too much for that car, even with the low mileage.  Maybe $6k, 
> primarily the premium for the low miles and if it has service records.
> 99 is the last and best model year of the W140."
> 
> Kaleb wrote:
> 
> "Walts car is too high. This car is too high. The 3.2 does just fine in the 
> 140."
> 
> 
> Thank you both!  I agree on the prices.  I am glad to hear the 3.2 is up to 
> the challenge.  I have a buyer interested in my 2001 7 series, but his offer 
> is too low.  He loves the car but is playing hardball.  I'm letting him stew 
> on my counter-offer.  If I could make it work, I might be in the market.  
> Really nice examples of these cars are hard to find and diesels like Walt's 
> are VERY hard to find.  So, I am trying to keep my eyes out.
> 
> Don Snook
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Some years ago I chucked a piece of seasoned Osage Orange wood in a metal
lathe and machined both a nut and bolt 1 inch diameter X 10 inch long, with
threads, just to see if it could be done and make a "desk display piece".

The wood had such a tight grain that it machined nicely, both external
threads on the bolt and internal threads on the nut. I gave it to my Dad
and customers would always pick it up and run the nut up and down the bolt.
Over the 20 years it was on his desk, I would guess at least 2,000
customers did that.. It's now gone somewhere, I surmise it's still working,
for who ever has it.

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 9:54 AM, Donald Snook via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> The last time I cut down some of this hedge, I was able to sharpen the
> blade.  But, I was using a much better and larger chain saw.  I don't know
> about its mineral content, but it is a bright yellow inside when alive and
> it mellows to a chocolate brown when it ages/seasons.  It is SUPER dense
> and heavy.
>
> Don Snook
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Floyd Thursby [mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 6:53 PM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track
>
> Problem with all the chainsaw "advise" is that that osage orange wood is
> hard as hell when green and when it dries it basically cannot be cut with
> much of anything, even carbide blades.  That's why it makes great wood
> planes and things like that, if you get it when it is workable.
>
> I can't remember if it is like teak with lots of mineral content or if it
> just hard and dense.
>
> --FT
>
>
> On 10/10/16 6:14 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> > Keep the chain sharp, and keep it well lubricated. A dull chain heats
> > up fast, a poorly lubricated chain heats up fast.
> >
> > Hot chain stretches, runs loose in the blade guides, which makes the
> > chain wobble so it doesn't bite into the wood at the correct angle,
> > which dulls the blade more quickly descending spiral of success.
> >
> > Sharp teeth, properly tension ed on the blade and properly lubed [if
> > your saw has an "automatic chain lube feature" it's seldom getting
> > enough lube for wood as hard as Osage Orange.]  I much prefer the
> > manual chain lube equipped saws.
> >
> > Best advise I can give you on when to sharpen your saw is to look at
> > the chips coming out of the cut.  When your saw is razor sharp and
> > freshly sharpened, look at those chips.. use them as the "benchmark"
> > look, as the teeth dull, the saw will work harder to do less work and
> > the chips will tell you "time to stop and sharpen the teeth..
> >
> > Osage Orange is one of the hardest woods to machine.. it's grain is
> > close and tight.  Good luck.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 2:54 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> If you don't have one, get a file to sharpen that chain.  Must be the
> >> right diameter and you need to know the angle (you can get cheap,
> >> easy guides that attach to the file).  It only takes a few minutes to
> >> sharpen a chain and a sharpened chain will cut like new.  I learned
> >> this the hard way after several FL panhandle hurricanes.  If you
> >> watch a real tree pro, they will have the helper sharpen the chains
> >> every hour or so.
> >>
> >>> -Original Message-
> >>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> >>> Donald Snook via Mercedes
> >>> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16 PM
> >>> To: Floyd Thursby ;
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com
> >>> Cc: Donald Snook 
> >>> Subject: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track
> >>>
> >>> I don't have any yet.  I just about ruined the chain on my chain saw
> >> cutting off
> >>> some of the larger limbs.   This wood is HARD and dense.  I am trying
> to
> >> cut
> >>> off as much as I can to thin them out and maybe I'll be able to get
> >>> them
> >> cut
> >>> down later.  My 5 year old son's favorite activity now is having a
> fire.
> >> I have a
> >>> fire pit and for the last few weeks we have a fire every weekend
> >>> burning
> >> all
> >>> the small sticks and limbs that I have collected over the last few
> years.
> >> I had
> >>> several logs from a hedge tree I cut down 4-5 years ago next to my
> shed.
> >>> Along with the hedge logs, I had some logs from a sweet gum tree and
> >>> a maple.  The hedge logs were solid and dense whereas the gum and
> >>> maple logs were soft and half disintegrated.
> >>>
> >>> Don Snook
> >>>
> >>> -Original Message-
> >>> From: Floyd Thursby [mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com]
> >>> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 10:49 AM
> >>> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> >>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Latest track
> >>>
> >>> Speaking of osage orange wood, how'd those chunks work out?
> >>>
> >>> --FT
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On 10/10/16 11:23 AM, Donald Snook via Mercedes wrote:
>  If we could have a 

Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

[Donald Snook via Mercedes]

Isn't it because single stage is so much harder to do because with a base and 
clear, you don't have to do as good a job with the base.  The clear does all 
the work.  I'm not suggesting this is a good thing, but lower quality shops 
don't want to put the work into a single stage. 

-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:ka...@striplin.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 7:12 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

I have not heard that but then again I don't deal with body shops too often. I 
find it very hard to believe nobody does single stage anymore. You probably 
need to look for another body shop.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2016, at 5:41 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Heh.  Not quite a Kleb car yet.  Just means I’ll have to find something nicer 
> and hand this down to the youngest boy.
> 
> Truth be told, with the exception of the rubbing into the paint on the edge 
> of the taillight opening I’m betting I can Martha this right out of the 
> finish, which is what I’ll do.  The body shop I talked to yesterday wants to 
> do two stage paint for some weird reason - they were adamant that no one does 
> single stage paint any more, which I find strange and slightly suspect.
> 
> Anyone here heard such stories?
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
>> On Oct 10, 2016, at 9:02 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Give you $500 for it. Seriously glad you had,an honest hitter.
>> 
>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>> 1982 300CD
>> 1990 300D
>> Wickford RI
>> 
>> On Oct 10, 2016 8:50 PM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" 
>> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Ouch, that's no fun to deal with.  Poor car is ruined, guess you'll 
>>> have to sell now...
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I call dibs!
>>> --
>>> Max Dillon
>>> Charleston SC
>>> '87 300TD
>>> '95 E300
>>> 
>>> On October 10, 2016 7:04:53 PM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes < 
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 I park in a parking garage at my office.  The space I park in is 
 one of two that are sandwiched between two block walls.  There is 
 room for two vehicles to fit in the area without having to squeeze out of 
 the door.
 I normally park well to the right against a wall so the person in 
 the other space has plenty of room. This is usually another 
 employee I work with, or if they’re late, some guy with a big red 
 Dodge pickup truck, who swings wide because he won’t back up and 
 straighten out to pull into the space.
 
 So today as I’m pulling out of my garage I hear a big “pop” sound 
 and realize I forgot to clear a plastic container with a set of old 
 H4 bulbs in it.  Realizing that the metal part of the bulb might 
 have damaged my right front tire, when I pulled into my parking 
 space this morning I moved towards the middle of the space, evenly 
 spacing my car between the yellow lines, with a good 8”-12” on each 
 side of the car between the car and the painted lines.  That way if 
 I had to change a tire should it have been damaged and leaked down 
 during the day I can get to that side of the car.
 
 Wife had doctor’s appointment I was attending, so about 9:40 I go 
 down to get in the car.  There’s a note stuffed in the gap between my 
 doors:
 
 "Sorry, but I scrapped (sic) against your car this morning.  It 
 doesn’t look bad, but please let me know what to do and I’ll work 
 things out with you.” (phone number)
 
 Arrgh.
 
 Left rear quarter is scuffed and left rear taillight is cracked.  
 When I got it out in the sun I could see a dimple in the middle of 
 the panel.  The trailing edge of the fender where the tail light 
 opening starts has the paint rubbed down to the primer.  I took 
 plenty of pictures of my car, its’ position and the big red truck, 
 which was clearly swung way over into my space when it pulled in 
 and had black paint on the bumper where it had rubbed against my car.
 
 So I called the guy and he was pretty contrite.  He said if it was 
 below his deductible he would just give me the money, otherwise I 
 could file a claim with his insurer.  I told him to put it in 
 writing in an email, which he did, even admitting fault and 
 including his insurance contact information and policy number. 
 (Nice!)
 
 So I went to the local ding and dent place, a chain called 
 “Carsmetics”, for a quick estimate.
 
 Around $475 for the paint work. LKQ has no left rear taillights for 
 my car, so the only other choice they have is to go with new from MBUSA.
 
 +$1100.00!!!
 
 I had them write up an estimate with and without the tail light.  
 I’m thinking if his deductible is $500 I’ll ask him for $550 and 
 I’ll source the tail light assembly (easily found on eBay for 
 $60-$80.)
 
 But only after I 

Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[Donald Snook via Mercedes]

Most of the purpose of Osage Orange is for a barrier.  It grows into a very 
gnarly hedge and it will definitely keep out a lot of things.  I see it a lot 
in Kansas as farmers used hedge years ago on borders.   Once it is cut down, I 
know a lot of people use it for fenceposts.  It is so heavy and lasts so long 
even in the weather that it makes a long lasting fence. 

As far as what people make it into, I learned from Mitch that people make it 
into Bow Staves.  My uncles who is a serious woodworker said he has used it to 
make gun stocks.So much of the hedge you see is twisted and gnarly, so I 
think the desirable stuff is wherever the grain is straight.  

Also around here, many people use it solely for burning for heat.   It burns 
hot and long.  It does however pop and snap a lot, so most of the people I know 
who burn it only do so if they have a stove or insert that can enclose it 
because when it is popping and snapping pieces can really fly.  I know, I 
burned a little in my fireplace! 

Don Snook 

-Original Message-
From: Andrew Strasfogel [mailto:astrasfo...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 9:47 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

What's it used for - flooring?  Furniture?  Toothpicks?

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 7:53 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes < 
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Problem with all the chainsaw "advise" is that that osage orange wood 
> is hard as hell when green and when it dries it basically cannot be 
> cut with much of anything, even carbide blades.  That's why it makes 
> great wood planes and things like that, if you get it when it is workable.
>
> I can't remember if it is like teak with lots of mineral content or if 
> it just hard and dense.
>
> --FT
>
>
>
> On 10/10/16 6:14 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> Keep the chain sharp, and keep it well lubricated. A dull chain heats 
>> up fast, a poorly lubricated chain heats up fast.
>>
>> Hot chain stretches, runs loose in the blade guides, which makes the 
>> chain wobble so it doesn't bite into the wood at the correct angle, 
>> which dulls the blade more quickly descending spiral of success.
>>
>> Sharp teeth, properly tension ed on the blade and properly lubed [if 
>> your saw has an "automatic chain lube feature" it's seldom getting 
>> enough lube for wood as hard as Osage Orange.]  I much prefer the 
>> manual chain lube equipped saws.
>>
>> Best advise I can give you on when to sharpen your saw is to look at 
>> the chips coming out of the cut.  When your saw is razor sharp and 
>> freshly sharpened, look at those chips.. use them as the "benchmark" 
>> look, as the teeth dull, the saw will work harder to do less work and 
>> the chips will tell you "time to stop and sharpen the teeth..
>>
>> Osage Orange is one of the hardest woods to machine.. it's grain is 
>> close and tight.  Good luck.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 2:54 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes < 
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> If you don't have one, get a file to sharpen that chain.  Must be the
>>> right
>>> diameter and you need to know the angle (you can get cheap, easy 
>>> guides that attach to the file).  It only takes a few minutes to 
>>> sharpen a chain and a sharpened chain will cut like new.  I learned 
>>> this the hard way after several FL panhandle hurricanes.  If you 
>>> watch a real tree pro, they will have the helper sharpen the chains 
>>> every hour or so.
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of 
 Donald Snook via Mercedes
 Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16 PM
 To: Floyd Thursby ; 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Donald Snook 
 Subject: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

 I don't have any yet.  I just about ruined the chain on my chain 
 saw

>>> cutting off
>>>
 some of the larger limbs.   This wood is HARD and dense.  I am trying to

>>> cut
>>>
 off as much as I can to thin them out and maybe I'll be able to get 
 them

>>> cut
>>>
 down later.  My 5 year old son's favorite activity now is having a fire.

>>> I have a
>>>
 fire pit and for the last few weeks we have a fire every weekend 
 burning

>>> all
>>>
 the small sticks and limbs that I have collected over the last few 
 years.

>>> I had
>>>
 several logs from a hedge tree I cut down 4-5 years ago next to my shed.
 Along with the hedge logs, I had some logs from a sweet gum tree 
 and a maple.  The hedge logs were solid and dense whereas the gum 
 and maple logs were soft and half disintegrated.

 Don Snook

 -Original Message-
 From: Floyd Thursby [mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com]
 Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 10:49 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Latest track

Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[Donald Snook via Mercedes]

The last time I cut down some of this hedge, I was able to sharpen the blade.  
But, I was using a much better and larger chain saw.  I don't know about its 
mineral content, but it is a bright yellow inside when alive and it mellows to 
a chocolate brown when it ages/seasons.  It is SUPER dense and heavy.  

Don Snook 

-Original Message-
From: Floyd Thursby [mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 6:53 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

Problem with all the chainsaw "advise" is that that osage orange wood is hard 
as hell when green and when it dries it basically cannot be cut with much of 
anything, even carbide blades.  That's why it makes great wood planes and 
things like that, if you get it when it is workable.

I can't remember if it is like teak with lots of mineral content or if it just 
hard and dense.

--FT


On 10/10/16 6:14 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> Keep the chain sharp, and keep it well lubricated. A dull chain heats 
> up fast, a poorly lubricated chain heats up fast.
>
> Hot chain stretches, runs loose in the blade guides, which makes the 
> chain wobble so it doesn't bite into the wood at the correct angle, 
> which dulls the blade more quickly descending spiral of success.
>
> Sharp teeth, properly tension ed on the blade and properly lubed [if 
> your saw has an "automatic chain lube feature" it's seldom getting 
> enough lube for wood as hard as Osage Orange.]  I much prefer the 
> manual chain lube equipped saws.
>
> Best advise I can give you on when to sharpen your saw is to look at 
> the chips coming out of the cut.  When your saw is razor sharp and 
> freshly sharpened, look at those chips.. use them as the "benchmark" 
> look, as the teeth dull, the saw will work harder to do less work and 
> the chips will tell you "time to stop and sharpen the teeth..
>
> Osage Orange is one of the hardest woods to machine.. it's grain is 
> close and tight.  Good luck.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 2:54 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes < 
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> If you don't have one, get a file to sharpen that chain.  Must be the 
>> right diameter and you need to know the angle (you can get cheap, 
>> easy guides that attach to the file).  It only takes a few minutes to 
>> sharpen a chain and a sharpened chain will cut like new.  I learned 
>> this the hard way after several FL panhandle hurricanes.  If you 
>> watch a real tree pro, they will have the helper sharpen the chains 
>> every hour or so.
>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of 
>>> Donald Snook via Mercedes
>>> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16 PM
>>> To: Floyd Thursby ; 
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com
>>> Cc: Donald Snook 
>>> Subject: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track
>>>
>>> I don't have any yet.  I just about ruined the chain on my chain saw
>> cutting off
>>> some of the larger limbs.   This wood is HARD and dense.  I am trying to
>> cut
>>> off as much as I can to thin them out and maybe I'll be able to get 
>>> them
>> cut
>>> down later.  My 5 year old son's favorite activity now is having a fire.
>> I have a
>>> fire pit and for the last few weeks we have a fire every weekend 
>>> burning
>> all
>>> the small sticks and limbs that I have collected over the last few years.
>> I had
>>> several logs from a hedge tree I cut down 4-5 years ago next to my shed.
>>> Along with the hedge logs, I had some logs from a sweet gum tree and 
>>> a maple.  The hedge logs were solid and dense whereas the gum and 
>>> maple logs were soft and half disintegrated.
>>>
>>> Don Snook
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Floyd Thursby [mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com]
>>> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 10:49 AM
>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Latest track
>>>
>>> Speaking of osage orange wood, how'd those chunks work out?
>>>
>>> --FT
>>>
>>>
>>> On 10/10/16 11:23 AM, Donald Snook via Mercedes wrote:
 If we could have a big storm that would knock down a couple of 
 hedge
>>> (Osage Orange) trees I would be pretty happy about that!
>>>
>>> --
>>> --FT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> 

Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

[Donald Snook via Mercedes]

Very frustrating.  But, at least the guy is honest.   Even if he has to turn it 
over to the insurance, you don't have to have them repair it.  You can take the 
check and find the part yourself.   I'm very surprised the paint work isn't 
more expensive! 

I was at an estate sale recently and somebody (I'm assuming an old person in a 
big car) backed into my car and busted the turn signal and left a quarter size 
dent on the fender near the light.  No note.   People can be a holes.  So, I am 
glad this guy stepped up. 

Don Snook 

-Original Message-
From: Dan Penoff [mailto:d...@penoff.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 6:05 PM
To: Mercedes List 
Subject: [MBZ] Bonehead

I park in a parking garage at my office.  The space I park in is one of two 
that are sandwiched between two block walls.  There is room for two vehicles to 
fit in the area without having to squeeze out of the door.  I normally park 
well to the right against a wall so the person in the other space has plenty of 
room. This is usually another employee I work with, or if they’re late, some 
guy with a big red Dodge pickup truck, who swings wide because he won’t back up 
and straighten out to pull into the space.

So today as I’m pulling out of my garage I hear a big “pop” sound and realize I 
forgot to clear a plastic container with a set of old H4 bulbs in it.  
Realizing that the metal part of the bulb might have damaged my right front 
tire, when I pulled into my parking space this morning I moved towards the 
middle of the space, evenly spacing my car between the yellow lines, with a 
good 8”-12” on each side of the car between the car and the painted lines.  
That way if I had to change a tire should it have been damaged and leaked down 
during the day I can get to that side of the car.

Wife had doctor’s appointment I was attending, so about 9:40 I go down to get 
in the car.  There’s a note stuffed in the gap between my doors:

"Sorry, but I scrapped (sic) against your car this morning.  It doesn’t look 
bad, but please let me know what to do and I’ll work things out with you.” 
(phone number)

Arrgh.

Left rear quarter is scuffed and left rear taillight is cracked.  When I got it 
out in the sun I could see a dimple in the middle of the panel.  The trailing 
edge of the fender where the tail light opening starts has the paint rubbed 
down to the primer.  I took plenty of pictures of my car, its’ position and the 
big red truck, which was clearly swung way over into my space when it pulled in 
and had black paint on the bumper where it had rubbed against my car.

So I called the guy and he was pretty contrite.  He said if it was below his 
deductible he would just give me the money, otherwise I could file a claim with 
his insurer.  I told him to put it in writing in an email, which he did, even 
admitting fault and including his insurance contact information and policy 
number. (Nice!)

So I went to the local ding and dent place, a chain called “Carsmetics”, for a 
quick estimate.

Around $475 for the paint work. LKQ has no left rear taillights for my car, so 
the only other choice they have is to go with new from MBUSA.

+$1100.00!!!

I had them write up an estimate with and without the tail light.  I’m thinking 
if his deductible is $500 I’ll ask him for $550 and I’ll source the tail light 
assembly (easily found on eBay for $60-$80.)

But only after I give him the $1700.00 estimate.

Dan

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Re: [MBZ] 140 3.2 Opinion

[Donald Snook via Mercedes]

Dan wrote:

"The 3.2 liter in the W140 is fine. I would encourage you to test drive the car 
and see for yourself.
I considered a 1997 S320 last year.  It was the first one I ever drove, and I 
took it out on the interstate and thrashed it with all the accessories on and 
it was fine.  Granted, it wouldn't chirp tires like my S500 would, but it did 
not seem underpowered or anemic.
$10k is way too much for that car, even with the low mileage.  Maybe $6k, 
primarily the premium for the low miles and if it has service records.
99 is the last and best model year of the W140."

Kaleb wrote:

"Walts car is too high. This car is too high. The 3.2 does just fine in the 
140."


Thank you both!  I agree on the prices.  I am glad to hear the 3.2 is up to the 
challenge.  I have a buyer interested in my 2001 7 series, but his offer is too 
low.  He loves the car but is playing hardball.  I'm letting him stew on my 
counter-offer.  If I could make it work, I might be in the market.  Really nice 
examples of these cars are hard to find and diesels like Walt's are VERY hard 
to find.  So, I am trying to keep my eyes out.

Don Snook


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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Not on nukes.  Plenty of fresh water on them.  Don’t know about diesel electric 
ones, although I’ve been on one that was in port, so showering wasn’t an issue 
there.

Dan


> On Oct 11, 2016, at 11:48 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Seems like I read someplace that submarine sailors take saltwater showers?
> ~


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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

Seems like I read someplace that submarine sailors take saltwater showers?
~
> Sounds like you’re doing a lot better than others up your way. Glad to hear 
> your power is still on and you’re not having to bail it out by hand…
> 
> Ever heard of a “Navy shower?”  Not fun, but it works.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navy_shower
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> > On Oct 11, 2016, at 10:52 AM, WILTON via Mercedes  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > Water still seeping into my basement.  'Removed original accumulation by
> > early Sun evening via 1¼" strong and steady stream.  I was then able to
> > re-establish the pump in sump by boiler in middle of basement; slow but
> > steady stream via garden hose since then.  'Depth holding at about ½" on 
> > bsmnt floor.
> > 
> > We've been lucky to have not lost power.  Power still out in much of the
> > city.  Dangerous driving with many traffic signals inop.
> > 
> > 'Water heater and burner/blower for heating system boiler still inop.
> > 
> > 'Had very short cold shower this morning.  'Figured it might not be as bad
> > as the 34-degree lake water the Danes threw me into at the July 4th party in
> > '78.  Well, it was close.
> > 
> > Wilt
> > 
> > - Original Message - From: "Mitch Haley via Mercedes" 
> > 
> > To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> > Cc: "Mitch Haley" 
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 10:12 AM
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Matthew
> > 
> > 
> >> I wonder if it's worth having both a submersible and a pedestal in the same
> >> hole
> >> if there's room for the bases. Each pump would need its own one way valve
> >> before
> >> teeing the pipes together, but if you set the pedestal to come on an inch
> >> higher
> >> than the submersible you'd be covered for any failure of the submersible
> >> (but
> >> not for total power failure).
> >> 
> >> When I put my new furnace in, I set in on 11" stacks of concrete blocks.
> >> When I added the indoor coil for a heat pump 2 years later, I had to ditch
> >> the
> >> blocks to make room for the extra height. Now it sits on 3/4" of rubber
> >> patio
> >> pavers. It turns out my sump never rises above floor level in power
> >> failures,
> >> but sometimes rainwater seeps into the basement opposite the sump, and
> >> runs past
> >> the furnace to the sump, usually when I forget to replace the outspouts
> >> for the
> >> gutters after I mow the yard.
> >> 
> >> Mitch.
> >> 
> >> 
> >>> On October 9, 2016 at 12:35 PM WILTON via Mercedes
> >>> 
> >>> wrote:
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> 14" water in basement;
> >> 
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> 
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >> 
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >> 
> > 
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > 
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 


-- 
arche...@embarqmail.com 

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

My 11hp Robin generator can run my 4500W per element (one element runs at a
time) water heater, my only problem is if the well pump kicks in, the surge from
the pump shutting off kills the breaker on the generator. 
Mitch. 

> On October 11, 2016 at 11:01 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Everybody around me seems to have power but so far mine has not come 
> back.  They got the swells down the road energized yesterday afternoon 
> but of course they had dozens of crews over there working.  Us back here 
> in the woods not so much..  The generator has settled down and is 
> working OK.
> 
> One of the 2 roads on/off the island is flooding again at high tide.  
> There is a railroad built through the marsh over there and the drains 
> under it are undersized for all the runoff from the (flooded) 
> developments built in what was (and still is) a swamp that can't utilize 
> what nature built -- swamps and marshes -- to drain down easily.  Score 
> for the developers and City/County councils who approve all this 
> foolishness.  They missed that aspect of why we are called the Lowcountry.
> 
> My 90gal hot water tank still had some tolerably warm water yesterday 
> evening after 3 days so that was pleasant.  I have another one feeding 
> the old bathrooms that I have not used so that might still be tolerable 
> too, will see later on.
> 
> --FT
> 
> 
> On 10/11/16 10:52 AM, WILTON via Mercedes wrote:
> > Water still seeping into my basement.  'Removed original accumulation by
> > early Sun evening via 1¼" strong and steady stream.  I was then able to
> > re-establish the pump in sump by boiler in middle of basement; slow but
> > steady stream via garden hose since then.  'Depth holding at about ½" 
> > on bsmnt floor.
> >
> > We've been lucky to have not lost power.  Power still out in much of the
> > city.  Dangerous driving with many traffic signals inop.
> >
> > 'Water heater and burner/blower for heating system boiler still inop.
> >
> > 'Had very short cold shower this morning.  'Figured it might not be as 
> > bad
> > as the 34-degree lake water the Danes threw me into at the July 4th 
> > party in
> > '78.  Well, it was close.
> >
> > Wilt
> >
> > - Original Message - From: "Mitch Haley via Mercedes" 
> > 
> > To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> > Cc: "Mitch Haley" 
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 10:12 AM
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Matthew
> >
> >
> >> I wonder if it's worth having both a submersible and a pedestal in 
> >> the same
> >> hole
> >> if there's room for the bases. Each pump would need its own one way 
> >> valve
> >> before
> >> teeing the pipes together, but if you set the pedestal to come on an 
> >> inch
> >> higher
> >> than the submersible you'd be covered for any failure of the submersible
> >> (but
> >> not for total power failure).
> >>
> >> When I put my new furnace in, I set in on 11" stacks of concrete blocks.
> >> When I added the indoor coil for a heat pump 2 years later, I had to 
> >> ditch
> >> the
> >> blocks to make room for the extra height. Now it sits on 3/4" of rubber
> >> patio
> >> pavers. It turns out my sump never rises above floor level in power
> >> failures,
> >> but sometimes rainwater seeps into the basement opposite the sump, and
> >> runs past
> >> the furnace to the sump, usually when I forget to replace the outspouts
> >> for the
> >> gutters after I mow the yard.
> >>
> >> Mitch.
> >>
> >>
> >>> On October 9, 2016 at 12:35 PM WILTON via Mercedes
> >>> 
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> 14" water in basement;
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
> 
> -- 
> --FT
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Everybody around me seems to have power but so far mine has not come 
back.  They got the swells down the road energized yesterday afternoon 
but of course they had dozens of crews over there working.  Us back here 
in the woods not so much..  The generator has settled down and is 
working OK.


One of the 2 roads on/off the island is flooding again at high tide.  
There is a railroad built through the marsh over there and the drains 
under it are undersized for all the runoff from the (flooded) 
developments built in what was (and still is) a swamp that can't utilize 
what nature built -- swamps and marshes -- to drain down easily.  Score 
for the developers and City/County councils who approve all this 
foolishness.  They missed that aspect of why we are called the Lowcountry.


My 90gal hot water tank still had some tolerably warm water yesterday 
evening after 3 days so that was pleasant.  I have another one feeding 
the old bathrooms that I have not used so that might still be tolerable 
too, will see later on.


--FT


On 10/11/16 10:52 AM, WILTON via Mercedes wrote:

Water still seeping into my basement.  'Removed original accumulation by
early Sun evening via 1¼" strong and steady stream.  I was then able to
re-establish the pump in sump by boiler in middle of basement; slow but
steady stream via garden hose since then.  'Depth holding at about ½" 
on bsmnt floor.


We've been lucky to have not lost power.  Power still out in much of the
city.  Dangerous driving with many traffic signals inop.

'Water heater and burner/blower for heating system boiler still inop.

'Had very short cold shower this morning.  'Figured it might not be as 
bad
as the 34-degree lake water the Danes threw me into at the July 4th 
party in

'78.  Well, it was close.

Wilt

- Original Message - From: "Mitch Haley via Mercedes" 


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Cc: "Mitch Haley" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Matthew


I wonder if it's worth having both a submersible and a pedestal in 
the same

hole
if there's room for the bases. Each pump would need its own one way 
valve

before
teeing the pipes together, but if you set the pedestal to come on an 
inch

higher
than the submersible you'd be covered for any failure of the submersible
(but
not for total power failure).

When I put my new furnace in, I set in on 11" stacks of concrete blocks.
When I added the indoor coil for a heat pump 2 years later, I had to 
ditch

the
blocks to make room for the extra height. Now it sits on 3/4" of rubber
patio
pavers. It turns out my sump never rises above floor level in power
failures,
but sometimes rainwater seeps into the basement opposite the sump, and
runs past
the furnace to the sump, usually when I forget to replace the outspouts
for the
gutters after I mow the yard.

Mitch.



On October 9, 2016 at 12:35 PM WILTON via Mercedes

wrote:


14" water in basement;


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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Sounds like you’re doing a lot better than others up your way. Glad to hear 
your power is still on and you’re not having to bail it out by hand…

Ever heard of a “Navy shower?”  Not fun, but it works.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navy_shower

Dan


> On Oct 11, 2016, at 10:52 AM, WILTON via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Water still seeping into my basement.  'Removed original accumulation by
> early Sun evening via 1¼" strong and steady stream.  I was then able to
> re-establish the pump in sump by boiler in middle of basement; slow but
> steady stream via garden hose since then.  'Depth holding at about ½" on 
> bsmnt floor.
> 
> We've been lucky to have not lost power.  Power still out in much of the
> city.  Dangerous driving with many traffic signals inop.
> 
> 'Water heater and burner/blower for heating system boiler still inop.
> 
> 'Had very short cold shower this morning.  'Figured it might not be as bad
> as the 34-degree lake water the Danes threw me into at the July 4th party in
> '78.  Well, it was close.
> 
> Wilt
> 
> - Original Message - From: "Mitch Haley via Mercedes" 
> 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Cc: "Mitch Haley" 
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 10:12 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Matthew
> 
> 
>> I wonder if it's worth having both a submersible and a pedestal in the same
>> hole
>> if there's room for the bases. Each pump would need its own one way valve
>> before
>> teeing the pipes together, but if you set the pedestal to come on an inch
>> higher
>> than the submersible you'd be covered for any failure of the submersible
>> (but
>> not for total power failure).
>> 
>> When I put my new furnace in, I set in on 11" stacks of concrete blocks.
>> When I added the indoor coil for a heat pump 2 years later, I had to ditch
>> the
>> blocks to make room for the extra height. Now it sits on 3/4" of rubber
>> patio
>> pavers. It turns out my sump never rises above floor level in power
>> failures,
>> but sometimes rainwater seeps into the basement opposite the sump, and
>> runs past
>> the furnace to the sump, usually when I forget to replace the outspouts
>> for the
>> gutters after I mow the yard.
>> 
>> Mitch.
>> 
>> 
>>> On October 9, 2016 at 12:35 PM WILTON via Mercedes
>>> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 14" water in basement;
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] 280S on BAT sold

[Jon Agne via Mercedes]

And my 250S, although it is not for sale! :-)

Winter storage arrangements have been made and the date is creeping up ever so 
quickly. :-(

I really want to do some work on my carbs.  The car is running fantastic except 
for a hesitation while accelerating at low speeds.  I checked the accelerator 
pumps, and as I feared, they just dribble fuel.  Real Mercedes pumps are about 
$140 each IF you can find them.  BMW used the Zenith 35/40 INAT carbs on 
numerous models.  You can order the pumps from just about any dealer on-line 
and they cost between $35-40.  Only snag is that they come from Germany so it’s 
about 10-14 days delivery.

Maybe I’ll take the carbs off after she goes into the barn.  That way I will 
not be rushed and it’ll give me something to do after the snow flies.

Jon


> On Oct 11, 2016, at 12:11 AM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> This is great... makes me feel like I can get back what I'm putting into my
> 250S
> 
> Jaime
> 
> 
> On Monday, October 10, 2016, Dimitri via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> 
>> For big bux!
>> 
>> http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-mercedes-benz-280/
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> -- 
> Jaime Kopchinski
> http://www.jaimekop.com/
> ___
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> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[WILTON via Mercedes]

Water still seeping into my basement.  'Removed original accumulation by
early Sun evening via 1¼" strong and steady stream.  I was then able to
re-establish the pump in sump by boiler in middle of basement; slow but
steady stream via garden hose since then.  'Depth holding at about ½" on 
bsmnt floor.


We've been lucky to have not lost power.  Power still out in much of the
city.  Dangerous driving with many traffic signals inop.

'Water heater and burner/blower for heating system boiler still inop.

'Had very short cold shower this morning.  'Figured it might not be as bad
as the 34-degree lake water the Danes threw me into at the July 4th party in
'78.  Well, it was close.

Wilt

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley via Mercedes" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Cc: "Mitch Haley" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Matthew



I wonder if it's worth having both a submersible and a pedestal in the same
hole
if there's room for the bases. Each pump would need its own one way valve
before
teeing the pipes together, but if you set the pedestal to come on an inch
higher
than the submersible you'd be covered for any failure of the submersible
(but
not for total power failure).

When I put my new furnace in, I set in on 11" stacks of concrete blocks.
When I added the indoor coil for a heat pump 2 years later, I had to ditch
the
blocks to make room for the extra height. Now it sits on 3/4" of rubber
patio
pavers. It turns out my sump never rises above floor level in power
failures,
but sometimes rainwater seeps into the basement opposite the sump, and
runs past
the furnace to the sump, usually when I forget to replace the outspouts
for the
gutters after I mow the yard.

Mitch.



On October 9, 2016 at 12:35 PM WILTON via Mercedes

wrote:


14" water in basement;


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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Your setup would work, but I would definitely size the combined outlet pipe for 
the total volume of both pumps.

In my former house in Indiana I had dual sumps, both with submersible pumps 
that went into a 2” PVC “Y”, up roughly 10’ and out the side of the foundation 
at ground level.  One of those pumps had a battery backup and both were 
supported by the 25kW standby generator as well.  From there the 2” PVC ran 
downhill for nearly 150’ across my side and back yard into a catch basin in the 
back yard.

This was a bad setup and was probably the reason why the basement flooded 
before we owned the house.  Here’s why:

If both pumps went off at the same time, which was certainly possible during 
times of heavy rains, there was no way both could push their combined rated 
capacity out through the 2” pipe.  What the original builder/plumber should 
have done was to increase the size of the pipe from 2” to at least 4” at the 
outlet of the “Y” and continued out and down to the catch basin with 4” pipe.

This setup had a double whammy - the volume of the pumps exceeded the capacity 
of the 2” pipe, AND, the 150’ run of pipe from the house to the catch basin 
couldn’t handle the capacity of both pumps due to the restriction it presented.

Had I remained there I would have sorted this out, and had plans to do so.  
It’s quite possible the pressure drop on the line to the catch basin may have 
required even larger than 4” pipe due to the distance  too - I never ran the 
calculations.  The house was built in heavy clay, and there was a constant flow 
of groundwater in the french drains that surrounded the foundation.

Dan





> On Oct 11, 2016, at 10:12 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I wonder if it's worth having both a submersible and a pedestal in the same 
> hole
> if there's room for the bases. Each pump would need its own one way valve 
> before
> teeing the pipes together, but if you set the pedestal to come on an inch 
> higher
> than the submersible you'd be covered for any failure of the submersible (but
> not for total power failure). 
> 
> When I put my new furnace in, I set in on 11" stacks of concrete blocks. 
> When I added the indoor coil for a heat pump 2 years later, I had to ditch the
> blocks to make room for the extra height. Now it sits on 3/4" of rubber patio
> pavers. It turns out my sump never rises above floor level in power failures,
> but sometimes rainwater seeps into the basement opposite the sump, and runs 
> past
> the furnace to the sump, usually when I forget to replace the outspouts for 
> the
> gutters after I mow the yard. 
> 
> Mitch.
> 
> 
>> On October 9, 2016 at 12:35 PM WILTON via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 14" water in basement;
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] OT- Wrenches Jammed in B-47 flight controls

[WILTON via Mercedes]

Agreed.

'Might have had to pay for 'em when he turned in what was left, however, 
when I left to attend OCS March 1, '60, I was not "billed" for minor stuff 
missing from my tool box.


Wilt



- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley via Mercedes" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Cc: "Mitch Haley" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- Wrenches Jammed in B-47 flight controls


To stick them there is bad, to walk away from them like that, just once, 
should

be a firing offense in the private world, maybe reduction of rank in the
military.

What happens to an enlisted mechanic if two wrenches are missing from his
toolkit?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] If You Want Stupid, Here It Is

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Should be a capital offense.

Dwight Giles Jr.
1982 300CD
1990 300D
Wickford RI

On Oct 11, 2016 8:23 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> http://bringatrailer.com/2016/10/10/konigsflosse-1963-
> mercedes-benz-300-se-rally/
>
> Uh, yeah.  I think not.
>
> Dan
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Carfax?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On October 9, 2016 at 11:32 AM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> It does not look to have gone back to Michigan. When it was a lemon buy back
> the owner was Gm so their address would be Michigan. 

So it went from Korea to the dealer in CA in 2014, sold in 2015, sold back to GM
in 2016, sold to a Wisconsin dealer and shipped to WI a couple of months later?

I've been PMing on a SparkEV forum with a fellow who owns a buyback 2014 lemon.
He's totally happy with his. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Matthew

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

I wonder if it's worth having both a submersible and a pedestal in the same hole
if there's room for the bases. Each pump would need its own one way valve before
teeing the pipes together, but if you set the pedestal to come on an inch higher
than the submersible you'd be covered for any failure of the submersible (but
not for total power failure). 

When I put my new furnace in, I set in on 11" stacks of concrete blocks. 
When I added the indoor coil for a heat pump 2 years later, I had to ditch the
blocks to make room for the extra height. Now it sits on 3/4" of rubber patio
pavers. It turns out my sump never rises above floor level in power failures,
but sometimes rainwater seeps into the basement opposite the sump, and runs past
the furnace to the sump, usually when I forget to replace the outspouts for the
gutters after I mow the yard. 

Mitch.


> On October 9, 2016 at 12:35 PM WILTON via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 14" water in basement;

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Re: [MBZ] OT- Wrenches Jammed in B-47 flight controls

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

To stick them there is bad, to walk away from them like that, just once, should
be a firing offense in the private world, maybe reduction of rank in the
military. 

What happens to an enlisted mechanic if two wrenches are missing from his
toolkit? 

Mitch.

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[MBZ] If You Want Stupid, Here It Is

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

http://bringatrailer.com/2016/10/10/konigsflosse-1963-mercedes-benz-300-se-rally/

Uh, yeah.  I think not.

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

At this point I just want a number.  I’m going to settle and take the cash, as 
I’m pretty sure I can get nearly all of the damage out myself. There’s a really 
mild dimple in the center of the panel just above the break where the pinstripe 
usually goes, but being that the car is black it’s nearly imperceptible at this 
point.

I would love to see if a paintless dent removal guy could get it out - I’m 
betting they could.

Dan


> On Oct 11, 2016, at 8:11 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have not heard that but then again I don't deal with body shops too often. 
> I find it very hard to believe nobody does single stage anymore. You probably 
> need to look for another body shop.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I have not heard that but then again I don't deal with body shops too often. I 
find it very hard to believe nobody does single stage anymore. You probably 
need to look for another body shop.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2016, at 5:41 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Heh.  Not quite a Kleb car yet.  Just means I’ll have to find something nicer 
> and hand this down to the youngest boy.
> 
> Truth be told, with the exception of the rubbing into the paint on the edge 
> of the taillight opening I’m betting I can Martha this right out of the 
> finish, which is what I’ll do.  The body shop I talked to yesterday wants to 
> do two stage paint for some weird reason - they were adamant that no one does 
> single stage paint any more, which I find strange and slightly suspect.
> 
> Anyone here heard such stories?
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
>> On Oct 10, 2016, at 9:02 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Give you $500 for it. Seriously glad you had,an honest hitter.
>> 
>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>> 1982 300CD
>> 1990 300D
>> Wickford RI
>> 
>> On Oct 10, 2016 8:50 PM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Ouch, that's no fun to deal with.  Poor car is ruined, guess you'll have
>>> to sell now...
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I call dibs!
>>> --
>>> Max Dillon
>>> Charleston SC
>>> '87 300TD
>>> '95 E300
>>> 
>>> On October 10, 2016 7:04:53 PM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 I park in a parking garage at my office.  The space I park in is one of
 two that are sandwiched between two block walls.  There is room for two
 vehicles to fit in the area without having to squeeze out of the door.
 I normally park well to the right against a wall so the person in the
 other space has plenty of room. This is usually another employee I work
 with, or if they’re late, some guy with a big red Dodge pickup truck,
 who swings wide because he won’t back up and straighten out to pull
 into the space.
 
 So today as I’m pulling out of my garage I hear a big “pop” sound and
 realize I forgot to clear a plastic container with a set of old H4
 bulbs in it.  Realizing that the metal part of the bulb might have
 damaged my right front tire, when I pulled into my parking space this
 morning I moved towards the middle of the space, evenly spacing my car
 between the yellow lines, with a good 8”-12” on each side of the car
 between the car and the painted lines.  That way if I had to change a
 tire should it have been damaged and leaked down during the day I can
 get to that side of the car.
 
 Wife had doctor’s appointment I was attending, so about 9:40 I go down
 to get in the car.  There’s a note stuffed in the gap between my doors:
 
 "Sorry, but I scrapped (sic) against your car this morning.  It doesn’t
 look bad, but please let me know what to do and I’ll work things out
 with you.” (phone number)
 
 Arrgh.
 
 Left rear quarter is scuffed and left rear taillight is cracked.  When
 I got it out in the sun I could see a dimple in the middle of the
 panel.  The trailing edge of the fender where the tail light opening
 starts has the paint rubbed down to the primer.  I took plenty of
 pictures of my car, its’ position and the big red truck, which was
 clearly swung way over into my space when it pulled in and had black
 paint on the bumper where it had rubbed against my car.
 
 So I called the guy and he was pretty contrite.  He said if it was
 below his deductible he would just give me the money, otherwise I could
 file a claim with his insurer.  I told him to put it in writing in an
 email, which he did, even admitting fault and including his insurance
 contact information and policy number. (Nice!)
 
 So I went to the local ding and dent place, a chain called
 “Carsmetics”, for a quick estimate.
 
 Around $475 for the paint work. LKQ has no left rear taillights for my
 car, so the only other choice they have is to go with new from MBUSA.
 
 +$1100.00!!!
 
 I had them write up an estimate with and without the tail light.  I’m
 thinking if his deductible is $500 I’ll ask him for $550 and I’ll
 source the tail light assembly (easily found on eBay for $60-$80.)
 
 But only after I give him the $1700.00 estimate.
 
 Dan
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Heh.  Not quite a Kleb car yet.  Just means I’ll have to find something nicer 
and hand this down to the youngest boy.

Truth be told, with the exception of the rubbing into the paint on the edge of 
the taillight opening I’m betting I can Martha this right out of the finish, 
which is what I’ll do.  The body shop I talked to yesterday wants to do two 
stage paint for some weird reason - they were adamant that no one does single 
stage paint any more, which I find strange and slightly suspect.

Anyone here heard such stories?

Dan


> On Oct 10, 2016, at 9:02 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Give you $500 for it. Seriously glad you had,an honest hitter.
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> 1982 300CD
> 1990 300D
> Wickford RI
> 
> On Oct 10, 2016 8:50 PM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" 
> wrote:
> 
>> Ouch, that's no fun to deal with.  Poor car is ruined, guess you'll have
>> to sell now...
>> 
>> 
>> I call dibs!
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '87 300TD
>> '95 E300
>> 
>> On October 10, 2016 7:04:53 PM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> I park in a parking garage at my office.  The space I park in is one of
>>> two that are sandwiched between two block walls.  There is room for two
>>> vehicles to fit in the area without having to squeeze out of the door.
>>> I normally park well to the right against a wall so the person in the
>>> other space has plenty of room. This is usually another employee I work
>>> with, or if they’re late, some guy with a big red Dodge pickup truck,
>>> who swings wide because he won’t back up and straighten out to pull
>>> into the space.
>>> 
>>> So today as I’m pulling out of my garage I hear a big “pop” sound and
>>> realize I forgot to clear a plastic container with a set of old H4
>>> bulbs in it.  Realizing that the metal part of the bulb might have
>>> damaged my right front tire, when I pulled into my parking space this
>>> morning I moved towards the middle of the space, evenly spacing my car
>>> between the yellow lines, with a good 8”-12” on each side of the car
>>> between the car and the painted lines.  That way if I had to change a
>>> tire should it have been damaged and leaked down during the day I can
>>> get to that side of the car.
>>> 
>>> Wife had doctor’s appointment I was attending, so about 9:40 I go down
>>> to get in the car.  There’s a note stuffed in the gap between my doors:
>>> 
>>> "Sorry, but I scrapped (sic) against your car this morning.  It doesn’t
>>> look bad, but please let me know what to do and I’ll work things out
>>> with you.” (phone number)
>>> 
>>> Arrgh.
>>> 
>>> Left rear quarter is scuffed and left rear taillight is cracked.  When
>>> I got it out in the sun I could see a dimple in the middle of the
>>> panel.  The trailing edge of the fender where the tail light opening
>>> starts has the paint rubbed down to the primer.  I took plenty of
>>> pictures of my car, its’ position and the big red truck, which was
>>> clearly swung way over into my space when it pulled in and had black
>>> paint on the bumper where it had rubbed against my car.
>>> 
>>> So I called the guy and he was pretty contrite.  He said if it was
>>> below his deductible he would just give me the money, otherwise I could
>>> file a claim with his insurer.  I told him to put it in writing in an
>>> email, which he did, even admitting fault and including his insurance
>>> contact information and policy number. (Nice!)
>>> 
>>> So I went to the local ding and dent place, a chain called
>>> “Carsmetics”, for a quick estimate.
>>> 
>>> Around $475 for the paint work. LKQ has no left rear taillights for my
>>> car, so the only other choice they have is to go with new from MBUSA.
>>> 
>>> +$1100.00!!!
>>> 
>>> I had them write up an estimate with and without the tail light.  I’m
>>> thinking if his deductible is $500 I’ll ask him for $550 and I’ll
>>> source the tail light assembly (easily found on eBay for $60-$80.)
>>> 
>>> But only after I give him the $1700.00 estimate.
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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>> 
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>> 
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>> 
>> 
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To 

Re: [MBZ] Bonehead

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Yes, it is.  Left tail light?

Thanks!

Dan

> On Oct 10, 2016, at 10:42 PM, WILTON via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Dan, is that the 126?  I have a taillight.  $60 + shipping.
> 
> Wilt
> 
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> 
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> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Hedge wood was RE: OT Latest track

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Floyd wrote:
> 
> Problem with all the chainsaw "advise" is that that osage orange
> wood is hard as hell when green and when it dries it basically
> cannot be cut with much of anything, even carbide blades.  That's
> why it makes great wood planes and things like that, if you get
> it when it is workable.

Not true, at least not from my experience.

It's hard.  It's dense.  But I cut it with my standard chain saw
chain.  I've cut it green and cut it dry (> two years sitting
out).  It's certainly harder to whittle than maple, red oak, white
oak, or hickory.

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