Re: [MBZ] jasper transmissions

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

>Rebuild kits "from China" seem to be about $200 on eBay.

Uh, no. Thank you. 

Rick


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Re: [MBZ] jasper transmissions

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Found a salvage transmission on car-part.com available near here,
already out of the donor car and on a shelf. Supposedly about 75,000
miles on it. Mine failed at about 213,000 miles. So in theory that used
one should last the reasonable remaining life of the car.

Skimmed a video of removing the transmission, doesn't look terrible. Not
like I need to add more to the backlog though. Might try to get a quote
from an indy to install it.

That transmission is listed for $725 which is high compared to others
but the others all have at least double the mileage (or no miles listed)
and are farther away.

Rebuild kits "from China" seem to be about $200 on eBay.

Hmmm

Allan

Max Dillon via Mercedes  writes:

> DIY: I read through a blog of a fellow who rebuilt one (Mercedes), not 
> difficult but time consuming.
>
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
> Jul 3, 2020 9:46:31 PM Allan Streib via Mercedes :
>
>> Honda Element transmission went out and left me on the side of the road
>> tonight.
>> 
>> I had thought it was a shift solenoid issue, replaced it about a month
>> ago and it seemed better. But in the heat today it just would not engage
>> gears. Was OK when cold but as it warmed up it got worse and worse and
>> finally would not engage at all. Fluid level OK.
>> 
>> I kind of want to keep the car since it's otherwise pretty solid and I
>> will have a son in college who could take it this winter. Figure a
>> transmisison job will be less than buying anything else reliable for the
>> same money.
>> 
>> Anyone familiar with Jasper transmissions? A glance at their website
>> seems to indicate they only sell through installers. Are they generally
>> good?
>> 
>> DIY rebuild feasible? Never done that.
>> 
>> Allan
>> 

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Re: [MBZ] Barry Manilow

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

I got to hang out with the guys in Mountain one afternoon at the airport (FWA) 
where I worked summers. There were thunderstorms around that prevented their 
plane from coming to pick them up for 3-4 hours. Because of that everything was 
dead so I just hung out in the office with them. They were really tired and 
bored but also just really nice regular guys. We just chitchatted a bit, I 
mostly left them alone. I think I might have run to get them lunch or something 
from the airport diner  They read and rested, were happy to leave, thanked me. 

When I told my friends later they thought I was a god. 

I saw James Brown one night too for a minute. THAT was an experience. 

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 8:08 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> While it has been many years, in the summer in junior/senior years of high 
> school and later before I was in tech school I used to drive a semi with a 
> Landoll trailer carrying a 350kW generator set and cables to be used by the 
> various tours as they went around the Midwest. A lot of the venues back in 
> that time didn’t have adequate house power to run their whole show, so they 
> would run the sound off house power and used our generator for lighting.
> 
> I would often follow a given show for a week at a time, sometimes more, as 
> they toured around the Midwest. We also had a standing gig with Market Square 
> Area and the Clay Courts in Indianapolis for the same thing, so in some cases 
> I would be doing it during the rest of the year locally, too.
> 
> I was first in, last out. For a typical 8:00 pm show I had to be there no 
> later than 8:00 am, sound check was usually around 2:00-3:00, then cool my 
> heels until the show started. A lot of times we wouldn’t have everything 
> struck at the prior venue until 2:00 - 3:00 am, which meant I might have to 
> high tail it a couple hundred miles to the next venue, like maybe Louisville 
> to Columbus or St. Louis, for example. Longer distances usually meant a 
> travel day in between. Lots of sleeping in the truck.
> 
> Some of the artists I toured with:
> 
> Rush
> Fleetwood Mac
> Don Henley
> Stevie Nicks
> Kiss
> Foreigner
> Phil Collins
> Def Leppard
> Dire Straits
> AC/DC
> Journey
> REO Speedwagon
> Pat Benatar
> ZZ Top
> Heart
> Toto
> Kenny Loggins
> Steve Winwood
> 
> I’m sure there were others, but these are the ones I recall. All I can say is 
> that while it was fun, sort of, it made me realize what a crappy way to make 
> a living it was. I had to carry a firearm because I always got paid in cash 
> by the road manager before the end of the show, so I always had large sums of 
> cash on me until the morning when I could deposit it if I could find the 
> right bank where we were. I was not union, so at the union (IATSE) halls I 
> had to have a union member “assigned” to me that made all the final 
> connections and I pretty much just flipped the switch and made sure all was 
> well. Once that was done I was free to hit the buffet if there was one for 
> the crew.
> 
> My recollections about artists are as such:
> 
> Rush was the absolute best band to work for. They had a dedicated crew that 
> toured exclusively with them, some of them having been with the band for some 
> time. Food was excellent and they (Geddy Lee and Alex Lifeson) were always 
> very nice and came by before the show to thank everyone. Molson and cold 
> shrimp were some of the regular things on the after show buffet, and they 
> always had a “to-go” kit of food and goodies for everyone on the crew after 
> things were broken down/struck. A good breakfast was out on the morning of 
> the show, too, with lots of fresh fruit and good things to eat.
> 
> Don Henley’s entourage was the worst. That was one of those “avert your eyes 
> when the “artist” is moving through the wings and backstage.” A real douche. 
> No buffet or food, a pile of order-out pizza and cooler full of generic soda 
> was all they would put out, and it was rarely enough to feed everyone.
> 
> Keep in mind that food is always provided by the venue/promoter and costs the 
> act a minimal amount of money, if any, as it’s factored into the cost of the 
> show and spelled out in the rider in advance. That’s the contract that says 
> “no brown M’s.” So if a tour does a crappy job on food for the crew, it’s 
> on the tour, not the venue.
> 
> Understand that as a crew member you rarely see the talent. If you do, 
> they’re moving through backstage from point A to point B with their entourage 
> around them, so you often can’t even see them if you tried. The only ones I 
> recall circulating backstage were Rush, ZZ Top and I think Kenny Loggins. 
> They would often hang around and chat a little bit after the sound check. As 
> I mentioned before, Rush would come around and thank everyone before the show.
> 
> I really don’t recall a lot of details, as it was 40 years ago, but those are 
> the ones that stand out. The rest were pretty decent 

Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

If memory serves me correctly, the term is “miscible”, and R134a is not with 
mineral based oils.

-D

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:02 PM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
> 
> You have ensure the oil is something that is compatible with the refrigerant.
> Anything else is murder.  (To the compressor.)
> 
> -- Jim
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Barry Manilow

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

We convinced my youngest cousin that his name was pronounced “Fairy 
Banananose”.  His mom, my aunt, loved Barry. It was awesome. 

Bob R

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Interesting gives a whole new meaning to the nick name 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:08 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> While it has been many years, in the summer in junior/senior years of high 
>> school and later before I was in tech school I used to drive a semi with a 
>> Landoll trailer carrying a 350kW generator set and cables to be used by the 
>> various tours as they went around the Midwest. A lot of the venues back in 
>> that time didn’t have adequate house power to run their whole show, so they 
>> would run the sound off house power and used our generator for lighting.
>> 
>> I would often follow a given show for a week at a time, sometimes more, as 
>> they toured around the Midwest. We also had a standing gig with Market 
>> Square Area and the Clay Courts in Indianapolis for the same thing, so in 
>> some cases I would be doing it during the rest of the year locally, too.
>> 
>> I was first in, last out. For a typical 8:00 pm show I had to be there no 
>> later than 8:00 am, sound check was usually around 2:00-3:00, then cool my 
>> heels until the show started. A lot of times we wouldn’t have everything 
>> struck at the prior venue until 2:00 - 3:00 am, which meant I might have to 
>> high tail it a couple hundred miles to the next venue, like maybe Louisville 
>> to Columbus or St. Louis, for example. Longer distances usually meant a 
>> travel day in between. Lots of sleeping in the truck.
>> 
>> Some of the artists I toured with:
>> 
>> Rush
>> Fleetwood Mac
>> Don Henley
>> Stevie Nicks
>> Kiss
>> Foreigner
>> Phil Collins
>> Def Leppard
>> Dire Straits
>> AC/DC
>> Journey
>> REO Speedwagon
>> Pat Benatar
>> ZZ Top
>> Heart
>> Toto
>> Kenny Loggins
>> Steve Winwood
>> 
>> I’m sure there were others, but these are the ones I recall. All I can say 
>> is that while it was fun, sort of, it made me realize what a crappy way to 
>> make a living it was. I had to carry a firearm because I always got paid in 
>> cash by the road manager before the end of the show, so I always had large 
>> sums of cash on me until the morning when I could deposit it if I could find 
>> the right bank where we were. I was not union, so at the union (IATSE) halls 
>> I had to have a union member “assigned” to me that made all the final 
>> connections and I pretty much just flipped the switch and made sure all was 
>> well. Once that was done I was free to hit the buffet if there was one for 
>> the crew.
>> 
>> My recollections about artists are as such:
>> 
>> Rush was the absolute best band to work for. They had a dedicated crew that 
>> toured exclusively with them, some of them having been with the band for 
>> some time. Food was excellent and they (Geddy Lee and Alex Lifeson) were 
>> always very nice and came by before the show to thank everyone. Molson and 
>> cold shrimp were some of the regular things on the after show buffet, and 
>> they always had a “to-go” kit of food and goodies for everyone on the crew 
>> after things were broken down/struck. A good breakfast was out on the 
>> morning of the show, too, with lots of fresh fruit and good things to eat.
>> 
>> Don Henley’s entourage was the worst. That was one of those “avert your eyes 
>> when the “artist” is moving through the wings and backstage.” A real douche. 
>> No buffet or food, a pile of order-out pizza and cooler full of generic soda 
>> was all they would put out, and it was rarely enough to feed everyone.
>> 
>> Keep in mind that food is always provided by the venue/promoter and costs 
>> the act a minimal amount of money, if any, as it’s factored into the cost of 
>> the show and spelled out in the rider in advance. That’s the contract that 
>> says “no brown M’s.” So if a tour does a crappy job on food for the crew, 
>> it’s on the tour, not the venue.
>> 
>> Understand that as a crew member you rarely see the talent. If you do, 
>> they’re moving through backstage from point A to point B with their 
>> entourage around them, so you often can’t even see them if you tried. The 
>> only ones I recall circulating backstage were Rush, ZZ Top and I think Kenny 
>> Loggins. They would often hang around and chat a little bit after the sound 
>> check. As I mentioned before, Rush would come around and thank everyone 
>> before the show.
>> 
>> I really don’t recall a lot of details, as it was 40 years ago, but those 
>> are the ones that stand out. The rest were pretty decent because they 
>> recognized the value of keeping the help happy. It was still a crappy gig, 
>> but I got paid pretty well for the time, I think $200/day in cash.
>> 
>> -D “Yeah, I’m with the band, baby”
>> 
 On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I 

Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

You have ensure the oil is something that is compatible with the refrigerant.
Anything else is murder.  (To the compressor.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[ROGER HALE via Mercedes]

Well, I hate to even chime in here, but...  I know some of you are purist, but 
my 1983 300D with over 360,000 miles and still the same compressor from 20 
years ago, has run R12, Freeze12, DuraCool, R134a, and something else.  The oil 
has been mixed.  It will still cool if topped off and stop the heater valve 
from overcoming the cool air.  So, no it is not recommended to mix but it will 
work.  My car is proof.  It also has only run Dino 15x40 Mobil, no synthetic.
Best Wishes and Happy 4th,
Roger

Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I may have to try using the rod from the last master cylinder. I think the line 
is clear but will double check it.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:16 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave is clear? 
> Maybe that was the problem all along.
> My suggestion is to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master. 
> That was my problem, the original rod got thrown away before I knew it was 
> too long. That one would still bleed it just had a weird high clutch with 
> short engagement.
> Curt
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>  On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 2:45 PM, Kaleb Striplin via 
> Mercedes wrote:   I don’t feel any resistance what so 
> ever when pushing the pedal. What I have done today is I unbolted the rod 
> from the pedal so it is all the way up, still continuing with the line hooked 
> from brake caliper to slave cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several 
> minutes, closed the bleed port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal 
> (which requires being pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went 
> thru this several times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil 
> squirt cans and will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from 
> under the car and pump fluid in while watching the reservoir. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
>> 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
>> pressure engagement.
>> 
>> If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
>> covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be letting
>> fluid into the piston to push the slave.
>> 
>> No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no clutch...
>> Is there an adjuster on the rod?
>> Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it possible
>> to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
>> done one.
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
>>> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>>> wrote:
 
 Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
 I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
>>> stays
 on better.
 
 As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
>>> should
 return to up position... is the return spring OK?
 
> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> Something like this?
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> wrote:
>> 
>> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
>>> hand
>> pump oil gun.
>> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
>>> output
>> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
>> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
>>> not
>> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
>> want it under the hood].
>> 
>> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
> fluid
>> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
>>> Check
>> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
>> 
>> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
>>> have
>> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
> the
>> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
> cap...
>> 
>> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
> you
>> should have a clutch that works.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down
>>> to
>>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
>>> pedal
>>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
>>> an
>>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the 

Re: [MBZ] Barry Manilow

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Interesting gives a whole new meaning to the nick name 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:08 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> While it has been many years, in the summer in junior/senior years of high 
> school and later before I was in tech school I used to drive a semi with a 
> Landoll trailer carrying a 350kW generator set and cables to be used by the 
> various tours as they went around the Midwest. A lot of the venues back in 
> that time didn’t have adequate house power to run their whole show, so they 
> would run the sound off house power and used our generator for lighting.
> 
> I would often follow a given show for a week at a time, sometimes more, as 
> they toured around the Midwest. We also had a standing gig with Market Square 
> Area and the Clay Courts in Indianapolis for the same thing, so in some cases 
> I would be doing it during the rest of the year locally, too.
> 
> I was first in, last out. For a typical 8:00 pm show I had to be there no 
> later than 8:00 am, sound check was usually around 2:00-3:00, then cool my 
> heels until the show started. A lot of times we wouldn’t have everything 
> struck at the prior venue until 2:00 - 3:00 am, which meant I might have to 
> high tail it a couple hundred miles to the next venue, like maybe Louisville 
> to Columbus or St. Louis, for example. Longer distances usually meant a 
> travel day in between. Lots of sleeping in the truck.
> 
> Some of the artists I toured with:
> 
> Rush
> Fleetwood Mac
> Don Henley
> Stevie Nicks
> Kiss
> Foreigner
> Phil Collins
> Def Leppard
> Dire Straits
> AC/DC
> Journey
> REO Speedwagon
> Pat Benatar
> ZZ Top
> Heart
> Toto
> Kenny Loggins
> Steve Winwood
> 
> I’m sure there were others, but these are the ones I recall. All I can say is 
> that while it was fun, sort of, it made me realize what a crappy way to make 
> a living it was. I had to carry a firearm because I always got paid in cash 
> by the road manager before the end of the show, so I always had large sums of 
> cash on me until the morning when I could deposit it if I could find the 
> right bank where we were. I was not union, so at the union (IATSE) halls I 
> had to have a union member “assigned” to me that made all the final 
> connections and I pretty much just flipped the switch and made sure all was 
> well. Once that was done I was free to hit the buffet if there was one for 
> the crew.
> 
> My recollections about artists are as such:
> 
> Rush was the absolute best band to work for. They had a dedicated crew that 
> toured exclusively with them, some of them having been with the band for some 
> time. Food was excellent and they (Geddy Lee and Alex Lifeson) were always 
> very nice and came by before the show to thank everyone. Molson and cold 
> shrimp were some of the regular things on the after show buffet, and they 
> always had a “to-go” kit of food and goodies for everyone on the crew after 
> things were broken down/struck. A good breakfast was out on the morning of 
> the show, too, with lots of fresh fruit and good things to eat.
> 
> Don Henley’s entourage was the worst. That was one of those “avert your eyes 
> when the “artist” is moving through the wings and backstage.” A real douche. 
> No buffet or food, a pile of order-out pizza and cooler full of generic soda 
> was all they would put out, and it was rarely enough to feed everyone.
> 
> Keep in mind that food is always provided by the venue/promoter and costs the 
> act a minimal amount of money, if any, as it’s factored into the cost of the 
> show and spelled out in the rider in advance. That’s the contract that says 
> “no brown M’s.” So if a tour does a crappy job on food for the crew, it’s 
> on the tour, not the venue.
> 
> Understand that as a crew member you rarely see the talent. If you do, 
> they’re moving through backstage from point A to point B with their entourage 
> around them, so you often can’t even see them if you tried. The only ones I 
> recall circulating backstage were Rush, ZZ Top and I think Kenny Loggins. 
> They would often hang around and chat a little bit after the sound check. As 
> I mentioned before, Rush would come around and thank everyone before the show.
> 
> I really don’t recall a lot of details, as it was 40 years ago, but those are 
> the ones that stand out. The rest were pretty decent because they recognized 
> the value of keeping the help happy. It was still a crappy gig, but I got 
> paid pretty well for the time, I think $200/day in cash.
> 
> -D “Yeah, I’m with the band, baby”
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I just heard a Barry Manilow song and it reminded me of a story. A friend of 
>> mine's wife has this part time gig where when shows come to town they do the 
>> back stage stuff with costumes.  Anyway she was working a Barry Manilow 
>> concert and apparently if they saw him coming none of them were allowed to 
>> look at him.  They had to 

Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Classic 240D for restoration

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 14:37:24 -0700 Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
 wrote:

> It’s junk. Probably leaves 4 tracks in the snow. 

It also has Los Angeles Public Schools brown.


Craig


> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Must have been hit hard in the back. Lots of bondo. 
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > 
> >> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:10 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
> >>  wrote:
> >> 
> >> Asking for more pics
> >> 
> >> Bob R
> >> 
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >> 
> >> 
> >>> 
> >>> Classic 240D for restoration
> >>> 
> >>> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/7153050934.html
> >>> 
> >>> Please go to the preferences page if you don't want to receive
> >>> email-a-friend messages in the future. 
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> 
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> >> 
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
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> > 
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> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> > 
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 




Craig

--
Present: '93 E300D/2.5 Turbo   354 kmi
 '89 Chevrolet G20 Beauville   230 kmi
 (the Big Red Van, BRV)
 '00 Kenworth W900  Helmut 943 kmi

   Past: '90 E300D/2.5 Turbo   265 kmi   RIP
 '07 Peterbilt 386  Bruno  885 kmi
 '95 E320   Sebastian  135 kmi   RIP
 '94 E420   Oskar  127 kmi   RIP
 '82 240D/3.0   Bluebell   286 kmi
 '87 Dodge Grand Caravan RIP
 '86 190E/2.3
 '72 220/8
 '61 Willys Utility Wagon
 '59 Willys Utility Wagon
 '67 Volkswagen Fastback
 '64 190Dc  Emma
 '72 220D/8 Herman 186 kmi
 '69 Lotus Europa
 '64 Alfa Romeo Turrisimo Internationale
 '59 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spyder Veloce

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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 19:32:15 + (UTC) Max Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Dave M. has a spread sheet of differentials on his website, I know it
> covers 124 and 126 cars, don't know that it covers 123 cars.

Fred beat me on Dave's file, but here is one from Stu below.


Craig

==

Original source (see post #11):
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?t=80104


This is an article from Stu Ritter, of the infamous Ritter/Easeley MB
list. Stu is also a veteran MB technician and shop owner, and Technical
Editor of MBCA's "The Star" magazine. My comments are followed by "-dm".


General info on MB differential setup... if you're thinking of swapping
the ring and pinion to change gear ratios, read carefully.  -dm

There are two ways to change the differential ratio in our MB's.

First is to swap the entire differential and the second is to swap out
just the ring and pinion for the ratio you want. In order to swap the 
gears, you must have ALL the measuring tools from MB to set up the pinion 
seating depth, the backlash and the case spread (bearing preload). While 
you can cob up some of the tooling you cannot cob up the pinion depth 
setting arrangement. The zero point for the pinion exists in space, 
inside the case. The only way to arrive at zero and the deviation from 
zero etched on the back of the pinion is to have the gauges. You could 
of course attempt to assemble it and blue the gears and read the pattern 
and take it apart and put it together, but OHMYGAWD, what work.

The factory sets up each ring and pinion in a test jig. This test jig 
allows the operator to move the pinion in and out of engagement with the 
ring gear. The purpose is to determine the point of quietest operation. 
When the gears are at their quietest they also are at the point of
maximum mesh and longest wear with most contact. This is the ideal point
you are looking for if you blue and pattern a set of gears. The operator
of the test jig moves the pinion in and out with microphones pointed at
the ring/pinion set. Watching dB meters, the operator finds the quietest
point. The test jig is set up so that the deviation from the zero point
is noted in hundredths of a millimeter. Your job when setting pinion
depth is to match that same point. You can't do it without the MB tools.

The measuring tools cost me $3,600 in 1986. I have no idea of what they 
cost today. As far as I know, RennTech and another shop in Florida along 
with my olde shop own the measuring tools. There is no other way to
change the gears by themselves. Also, when you buy new gears, or take
them from a junker, you must also take the ring gear carrier because each
ratio uses a different thickness carrier. Keeps the engagement spot the
same.

So much for the limited appeal of changing ring and pinion.




The following describes Stu's process of changing ratios in his 400E
(124.034). There are a number of minor technical errors, see my "Edit"
notes below.  -dm

In my car I obtained a 3.07 [gearset] from a 1973 450SL. Let me explain.
There are several sizes of differentials used by MB and they care
categorized by the oil capacity of the differential, or in other words
the size of the case.

There are 1, 1.1 (185mm), 1.3 (210mm), and 1.4 liter cases. 
[Edit: This is not entirely correct. The common case sizes in the 1980's 
and 1990's are 0.7, 1.1, 1.3, 1.4, and 1.6L. The 0.7L case has 168mm
gears. The 1.4L and 1.6L use "reinforced" 210mm gears. There is no 1.0L
case.  -dm ]

The gears are not interchangeable between cases. You must use 1.3 gears 
in a 1.3 case. The case on the V-8 124 chassis is the 1.3 liter case,
used since the first V-8's in 1972.
[Edit: True... but although the case fluid capacity is 1.3L, it is NOT the
same case as used in the 1970's-1980's W116/W126/R107. You may be able to
use the ring & pinion gears, but you can't swap the entire housing. -dm ]

The jump from the 1.1 liter case to the 1.3 liter case occurs at 200 
horsepower. Everything with over 200 horsepower has the larger gears in
the 1.3 liter case. 
[Edit: The change was based on torque, not horsepower. The W140 S350
diesel only had 134hp, but used the 1.3L case. I believe the change
happened when the engine torque rating exceeded approx 210 lb-ft,
regardless of HP.  -dm ]

The 103-engined 124 chassis has the 1.1 liter case. The introduction of 
the 104 engine in the 300CE brought the 1.3 liter case to the 124
chassis. Every 104 and 119 engined 124 has the 1.3 liter case along with
a much beefier rear subframe assembly to hold that 1.3 liter diff. 
[Edit: Only the M119/W124 had the stronger subframe, 

Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave is clear? 
Maybe that was the problem all along.
My suggestion is to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master. That 
was my problem, the original rod got thrown away before I knew it was too long. 
That one would still bleed it just had a weird high clutch with short 
engagement.
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 2:45 PM, Kaleb Striplin via 
Mercedes wrote:   I don’t feel any resistance what so 
ever when pushing the pedal. What I have done today is I unbolted the rod from 
the pedal so it is all the way up, still continuing with the line hooked from 
brake caliper to slave cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several minutes, 
closed the bleed port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal (which 
requires being pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went thru this 
several times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil squirt cans 
and will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from under the car and 
pump fluid in while watching the reservoir. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
> 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
> pressure engagement.
> 
> If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
> covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be letting
> fluid into the piston to push the slave.
> 
> No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no clutch...
> Is there an adjuster on the rod?
> Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it possible
> to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
> done one.
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
>> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
>>> I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
>> stays
>>> on better.
>>> 
>>> As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
>> should
>>> return to up position... is the return spring OK?
>>> 
 On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 Something like this?
 
 https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 wrote:
> 
> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
>> hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
>> output
> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
>> not
> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> want it under the hood].
> 
> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
 fluid
> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
>> Check
> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> 
> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
>> have
> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
 the
> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
 cap...
> 
> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
 you
> should have a clutch that works.
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down
>> to
>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
>> pedal
>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
>> an
>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> 

Re: [MBZ] OT - Mini Split and More

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

We’ll see….

-D

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:32 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:
> 
> Sounds like great progress Dan.
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020, 5:25 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes  > wrote:
> So my HVAC engineer neighbor was over the other night and I was asking him 
> about his opinion on a mini-split in the garage…
> 
> His take? Buy a portable 12,000 BTU unit and use that, forget about a 
> mini-split.
> 
> I bought one at Lowe’s today. I’m going to try it out in the morning 
> tomorrow. It should be a pretty wicked test, as we’ve been having 95+ degree 
> days of late with heat indexes approaching 100. This can also act as a backup 
> for the house in the event that the house AC pukes for whatever reason - we 
> can use it to cool a couple of rooms in an emergency.
> 
> I’ve got to do distributor caps, rotors and insulators on the 420E, so I’ll 
> pull it in early, shut the door and fire this thing up and see how it does. 
> Not sure how I’m going to vent it at present, but that’s something I can work 
> out.
> 
> He also suggested that I insulate the garage doors, too.
> 
> More as I know it.
> 
> I also bought my hybrid electric water heater. I was planning on doing this 
> in August, since I just dropped $6k last week on a new AC system for the 
> house, which is working quite well, I would add. While I was wandering the 
> aisles of Lowe’s I went by the water heaters to see if they still had any of 
> the one I wanted. They did, and it was marked down $300 from the regular 
> $1299. Bought the last one they had and let them carry the paper for 18 
> months, too.
> 
> So maybe next weekend I’ll have the resident plumber install the new water 
> heater. I already had him survey the existing setup to determine what he’ll 
> need to do the job, so that’s done. Another significant decrease in energy 
> consumption, *and* some cooling for the garage as well.
> 
> -D
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Mini Split and More

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Regular 15A 120V plug. One 4” dryer vent thingy which I will run under the 
small garage door and block the rest off with some chipboard pieces I have.

-D

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Huh.  Vent: does it need one or two?  In other words, does it heat up and 
> discharge interior air or exterior air?  The kind I worked with needed 
> exterior air.
> 
> Regular electrical socket, or does it need a 30 amp or 220 socket?
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Jul 4, 2020 5:25:05 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes :
> 
>> So my HVAC engineer neighbor was over the other night and I was asking him 
>> about his opinion on a mini-split in the garage…
>> 
>> His take? Buy a portable 12,000 BTU unit and use that, forget about a 
>> mini-split.
>> 
>> I bought one at Lowe’s today. I’m going to try it out in the morning 
>> tomorrow. It should be a pretty wicked test, as we’ve been having 95+ degree 
>> days of late with heat indexes approaching 100. This can also act as a 
>> backup for the house in the event that the house AC pukes for whatever 
>> reason - we can use it to cool a couple of rooms in an emergency.
>> 
>> I’ve got to do distributor caps, rotors and insulators on the 420E, so I’ll 
>> pull it in early, shut the door and fire this thing up and see how it does. 
>> Not sure how I’m going to vent it at present, but that’s something I can 
>> work out.
>> 
>> He also suggested that I insulate the garage doors, too.
>> 
>> More as I know it.
>> 
>> I also bought my hybrid electric water heater. I was planning on doing this 
>> in August, since I just dropped $6k last week on a new AC system for the 
>> house, which is working quite well, I would add. While I was wandering the 
>> aisles of Lowe’s I went by the water heaters to see if they still had any of 
>> the one I wanted. They did, and it was marked down $300 from the regular 
>> $1299. Bought the last one they had and let them carry the paper for 18 
>> months, too.
>> 
>> So maybe next weekend I’ll have the resident plumber install the new water 
>> heater. I already had him survey the existing setup to determine what he’ll 
>> need to do the job, so that’s done. Another significant decrease in energy 
>> consumption, *and* some cooling for the garage as well.
>> 
>> -D
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] Barry Manilow

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

While it has been many years, in the summer in junior/senior years of high 
school and later before I was in tech school I used to drive a semi with a 
Landoll trailer carrying a 350kW generator set and cables to be used by the 
various tours as they went around the Midwest. A lot of the venues back in that 
time didn’t have adequate house power to run their whole show, so they would 
run the sound off house power and used our generator for lighting.

I would often follow a given show for a week at a time, sometimes more, as they 
toured around the Midwest. We also had a standing gig with Market Square Area 
and the Clay Courts in Indianapolis for the same thing, so in some cases I 
would be doing it during the rest of the year locally, too.

I was first in, last out. For a typical 8:00 pm show I had to be there no later 
than 8:00 am, sound check was usually around 2:00-3:00, then cool my heels 
until the show started. A lot of times we wouldn’t have everything struck at 
the prior venue until 2:00 - 3:00 am, which meant I might have to high tail it 
a couple hundred miles to the next venue, like maybe Louisville to Columbus or 
St. Louis, for example. Longer distances usually meant a travel day in between. 
Lots of sleeping in the truck.

Some of the artists I toured with:

Rush
Fleetwood Mac
Don Henley
Stevie Nicks
Kiss
Foreigner
Phil Collins
Def Leppard
Dire Straits
AC/DC
Journey
REO Speedwagon
Pat Benatar
ZZ Top
Heart
Toto
Kenny Loggins
Steve Winwood

I’m sure there were others, but these are the ones I recall. All I can say is 
that while it was fun, sort of, it made me realize what a crappy way to make a 
living it was. I had to carry a firearm because I always got paid in cash by 
the road manager before the end of the show, so I always had large sums of cash 
on me until the morning when I could deposit it if I could find the right bank 
where we were. I was not union, so at the union (IATSE) halls I had to have a 
union member “assigned” to me that made all the final connections and I pretty 
much just flipped the switch and made sure all was well. Once that was done I 
was free to hit the buffet if there was one for the crew.

My recollections about artists are as such:

Rush was the absolute best band to work for. They had a dedicated crew that 
toured exclusively with them, some of them having been with the band for some 
time. Food was excellent and they (Geddy Lee and Alex Lifeson) were always very 
nice and came by before the show to thank everyone. Molson and cold shrimp were 
some of the regular things on the after show buffet, and they always had a 
“to-go” kit of food and goodies for everyone on the crew after things were 
broken down/struck. A good breakfast was out on the morning of the show, too, 
with lots of fresh fruit and good things to eat.

Don Henley’s entourage was the worst. That was one of those “avert your eyes 
when the “artist” is moving through the wings and backstage.” A real douche. No 
buffet or food, a pile of order-out pizza and cooler full of generic soda was 
all they would put out, and it was rarely enough to feed everyone.

Keep in mind that food is always provided by the venue/promoter and costs the 
act a minimal amount of money, if any, as it’s factored into the cost of the 
show and spelled out in the rider in advance. That’s the contract that says “no 
brown M’s.” So if a tour does a crappy job on food for the crew, it’s on the 
tour, not the venue.

Understand that as a crew member you rarely see the talent. If you do, they’re 
moving through backstage from point A to point B with their entourage around 
them, so you often can’t even see them if you tried. The only ones I recall 
circulating backstage were Rush, ZZ Top and I think Kenny Loggins. They would 
often hang around and chat a little bit after the sound check. As I mentioned 
before, Rush would come around and thank everyone before the show.

I really don’t recall a lot of details, as it was 40 years ago, but those are 
the ones that stand out. The rest were pretty decent because they recognized 
the value of keeping the help happy. It was still a crappy gig, but I got paid 
pretty well for the time, I think $200/day in cash.

-D “Yeah, I’m with the band, baby”

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I just heard a Barry Manilow song and it reminded me of a story. A friend of 
> mine's wife has this part time gig where when shows come to town they do the 
> back stage stuff with costumes.  Anyway she was working a Barry Manilow 
> concert and apparently if they saw him coming none of them were allowed to 
> look at him.  They had to look down or a different direction.  What a jerk.
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

Re: [MBZ] Sprinter repairs

[OK Don via Mercedes]

Sounds like a plan! Good luck ...

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 4:42 PM Rick Hawkins Java Letterpress Cycles Photon
via Mercedes  wrote:

> Folks,
>
> I lost the front brakes on the 2005 sprinter 2500. You may remember this
> is the Mennonite machine from Pennsylvania with 385k and PA rust.
>
> So a brake line failed  removing that one destroyed the also rusty
> next line. I’m replacing the line from the ABS block to a union at the
> driver’s side Front wheel side. Then the line that follows the frame
> crossmember and goes to the passenger side caliper gets replaced. I shopped
> for factory lines and they are neither cheap or readily available. I bought
> some flaps lines with fittings in copper nickel that is supposed to be easy
> to bend.  I measured the lines. One was 36 inches and the cross to caliper
> line was 66. I bought some 40 inch lines and a 30 inch line and a couple of
> unions. I intend to pre-bend The lines and install a 40 inch piece on each
> end  then I will fill out the remaining gap and will have both unions
> along the frame cross member.
>
> I guess this will be more fun than a barbecue!
>
> Happy 4th
>
> Xx rick
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Mini Split and More

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Sounds like great progress Dan.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020, 5:25 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
wrote:

> So my HVAC engineer neighbor was over the other night and I was asking him
> about his opinion on a mini-split in the garage…
>
> His take? Buy a portable 12,000 BTU unit and use that, forget about a
> mini-split.
>
> I bought one at Lowe’s today. I’m going to try it out in the morning
> tomorrow. It should be a pretty wicked test, as we’ve been having 95+
> degree days of late with heat indexes approaching 100. This can also act as
> a backup for the house in the event that the house AC pukes for whatever
> reason - we can use it to cool a couple of rooms in an emergency.
>
> I’ve got to do distributor caps, rotors and insulators on the 420E, so
> I’ll pull it in early, shut the door and fire this thing up and see how it
> does. Not sure how I’m going to vent it at present, but that’s something I
> can work out.
>
> He also suggested that I insulate the garage doors, too.
>
> More as I know it.
>
> I also bought my hybrid electric water heater. I was planning on doing
> this in August, since I just dropped $6k last week on a new AC system for
> the house, which is working quite well, I would add. While I was wandering
> the aisles of Lowe’s I went by the water heaters to see if they still had
> any of the one I wanted. They did, and it was marked down $300 from the
> regular $1299. Bought the last one they had and let them carry the paper
> for 18 months, too.
>
> So maybe next weekend I’ll have the resident plumber install the new water
> heater. I already had him survey the existing setup to determine what he’ll
> need to do the job, so that’s done. Another significant decrease in energy
> consumption, *and* some cooling for the garage as well.
>
> -D
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Mini Split and More

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Huh.  Vent: does it need one or two?  In other words, does it heat up and 
discharge interior air or exterior air?  The kind I worked with needed exterior 
air.

Regular electrical socket, or does it need a 30 amp or 220 socket?

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 4, 2020 5:25:05 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes :

> So my HVAC engineer neighbor was over the other night and I was asking him 
> about his opinion on a mini-split in the garage…
> 
> His take? Buy a portable 12,000 BTU unit and use that, forget about a 
> mini-split.
> 
> I bought one at Lowe’s today. I’m going to try it out in the morning 
> tomorrow. It should be a pretty wicked test, as we’ve been having 95+ degree 
> days of late with heat indexes approaching 100. This can also act as a backup 
> for the house in the event that the house AC pukes for whatever reason - we 
> can use it to cool a couple of rooms in an emergency.
> 
> I’ve got to do distributor caps, rotors and insulators on the 420E, so I’ll 
> pull it in early, shut the door and fire this thing up and see how it does. 
> Not sure how I’m going to vent it at present, but that’s something I can work 
> out.
> 
> He also suggested that I insulate the garage doors, too.
> 
> More as I know it.
> 
> I also bought my hybrid electric water heater. I was planning on doing this 
> in August, since I just dropped $6k last week on a new AC system for the 
> house, which is working quite well, I would add. While I was wandering the 
> aisles of Lowe’s I went by the water heaters to see if they still had any of 
> the one I wanted. They did, and it was marked down $300 from the regular 
> $1299. Bought the last one they had and let them carry the paper for 18 
> months, too.
> 
> So maybe next weekend I’ll have the resident plumber install the new water 
> heater. I already had him survey the existing setup to determine what he’ll 
> need to do the job, so that’s done. Another significant decrease in energy 
> consumption, *and* some cooling for the garage as well.
> 
> -D
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[MG via Mercedes]

Here is the list that I found. Note that probably the diff from a 
second gen 126 will not bolt into a 123 but the 85 126 will work 
in the 123. So you have 4 vehicles as donors, the 123 300d, 300cd 
and 300td and the 126 300sd. All of those are 85's.


Compatibility

Different final drives

The differential is the same on a w1114, w115, w116, w123 and 
w126 (first generation) a first generation w126 diff will fit on 
a w114,but wont fit on a 1986 w126.


If you are switching to a final drive from a v8 to a car without 
v8, you have to switch the yoke, and with that the “spacer washer”.

Final drive gear ratios
R107

1st Generation mounting
1972-1980, 350 SL/SLC, M116, 3.46, 1.1 Liter
1973-1980, 450 SL/SLC, M117, 2.65 / 3.06, 1.3 Liter
1981-1985, 380 SL, M116, 2.47, 1.3 Liter
1981-1982, 380SLC, M116, 2.47, 1.3 Liter
2nd Generation mounting
1986–1989, 560SL, M117, 2.47 / 2.47 ASR / 2.47 LSD, 1.3 Liter
w114

1968-1976, 230, M180, 3.69 / 3.92, 1.1 Liter
1968-1972, 250, M114, 3.69 / 3.92, 1.1 Liter
1972-1976, 250, M130, 3.69 / 3.92, 1.1 Liter
1969-1976, 250C/CE, M130, 3.69 / 3.92, 1.1 Liter
1972-1976, 280/E, M110, 3.69 / 3.92, 1.1 Liter
1972-1976, 280C/CE, M110, 3.69 / 3.92, 1.1 Liter
w115

1968–1976, 200, M121, 3.92 / 4.08, 1.1 Liter
1968–1976, 200D, OM615, 3.92, 1.1 Liter
1968–1973, 220, M115, 3.92 / 4.08, 1.1 Liter
1968–1976, 220D, OM615.941, 3.92, 1.1 Liter
1973–1976, 230.4, M115, 3.69, 1.1 Liter
1973–1976, 240D, OM616.916, 3.69, 1.1 Liter
1974–1976, 240D 3.0/300D, OM617.910, 3.46, 1.1 Liter
w116

1973–1980, 280S/280SE/280SEL, M110, 3.69, 1.1 Liter
1973–1980, 350SE/350SEL, M116, 3.46, 1.1 Liter
1973–1980, 450SE, M117, 3.06 / 3.07, 1.3 Liter
1973–1980, 450SEL, M117, 2.65 / 3.06 / 3.07, 1.3 Liter
1975–1980, 450SEL 6.9, M100, 2.65 LSD, 1.3 Liter
1978–1980, 300SD, OM617.950, 3.07, 1.1 Liter
w123

1977–1978, 230, M115, 3.69 (3.58) 1.1 Liter
1977–1983, 240D, OM616.912, 3.69, 1.1 Liter
1977–1981, 280E/280CE M110, 3.58, 1.1 Liter
1977–1985, 300D, OM617.912, 3.46, 1.1 Liter
1979–1980, 300TD, OM617.912, 3.46, 1.1 Liter
1981-1984, 300TD, OM617.952, 3.07, 1.1 Liter
1982-1984, 300DT, OM617.952, 3.07, 1.1 Liter
1982–1984, 300CD, OM617.952, 3.07, 1.1 Liter
1985, 300TD, OM617.952, 2.88, 1.1 Liter
1985, 300D, OM617.952, 2.88, 1.1 Liter
1985, 300CD, OM617.952, 2.88, 1.1 Liter
Euro Spec w123

1981-1985, 300TD, OM617.912, 3.46, 1.1 Liter
1982-1985, 300D, OM617.912, 3.46, 1.1 Liter
1982–1985, 300CD, OM617.912, 3.46, 1.1 Liter
1978–1985, 240TD, OM616.912, 3.69, 1.1 Liter
1978–1985, 280TE, M110, 3.58, 1.1 Liter
w126
1st Generation w126

Years,Model, Engine, Differential Ratio, Differential Case Size

1981-1984, 300 SD, OM617.951 3.0L I5, 3.07, from 10.1984: 2.88, 
1.1 Liter

1985, 300 SD, OM617.951 3.0L I5, 2.88, 1.1 Liter
1984-1985, 380 SE+SEL, M116.963 3.8L V8, 3.27,  from 1981-10, 
2.47, 1.3 Liter

1982-1983, 380 SEC, M116.963 3.8L V8, 2.47, 1.3 Liter
1984-1985, 500 SE+SEL, M117.963 5.0L V8, 2.82, from 1981-10, 
2.24, 1.3 Liter

1984-1985, 500 SEC, M117.963 5.0L V8, 2.24/2.24 LSD (2.47?) 1.3 Liter
2nd Generation w126

Years, Model, Engine, Differential Ratio, Differential Case Size
1989-1991, 300 SE, M103.981 3.0L I6, 3.46 1 Liter
1988-1991, 300 SEL, M103.981 3.0L I6, 3.46, 1 Liter
1986-1987, 300 SDL, OM603.961 3.0L I6, 2.88, 1.1 Liter
1991, 350 SD, OM603.97 3.5L I6, 2.82, 1.3 Liter
1990-1991, 350 SDL, OM603.97 3.5L I6, 2.82, 1.3 Liter
1986-1991, 420 SEL, M116.965 4.2L V8, 2.47, 1.3 Liter
1986-1991, 560 SEL, M117.968 5.6L V8, 2.47 ASR/2.47, 1.3 Liter
1986-1991, 560 SEC, M117.968 5.6L V8, 2.47 ASR/2.47 LSD/2.47, 1.3 
Liter


MG


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[MBZ] Barry Manilow

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I just heard a Barry Manilow song and it reminded me of a story. A 
friend of mine's wife has this part time gig where when shows come to 
town they do the back stage stuff with costumes.  Anyway she was working 
a Barry Manilow concert and apparently if they saw him coming none of 
them were allowed to look at him.  They had to look down or a different 
direction.  What a jerk.



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Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Correct.

On 7/4/2020 4:46 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I could maybe see that, although I would have some concerns about the oil 
that’s still in the system, as well as why all the R12 leaked out. If it’s an 
R12 system it’s got mineral based oil in it which does not dissolve in R134a, 
meaning you might end up with a failed compressor down the road as a result.

-D



On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  
wrote:

Basically if the R12 has all leaked out, all you need to do is put R134 
fittings on it and charge it.  Nothing else is required.

On 7/4/2020 4:26 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Either FB makes people stupid or it attracts them. A “25 year mechanic” who has 
half a brain would know better than that.

Do I understand that they were suggesting dumping R-134a in on top of R-12 in 
the same system?

-D


On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:23 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Well they were talking about recharging a R12 system. A “25 year mechanic “ 
says just buy the fill adapter and dump in 134. I say that won’t work then 
others chime in it’ll be fine, I don’t know anything

--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I could maybe see that, although I would have some concerns about the oil 
that’s still in the system, as well as why all the R12 leaked out. If it’s an 
R12 system it’s got mineral based oil in it which does not dissolve in R134a, 
meaning you might end up with a failed compressor down the road as a result.

-D


> On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Basically if the R12 has all leaked out, all you need to do is put R134 
> fittings on it and charge it.  Nothing else is required.
> 
> On 7/4/2020 4:26 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
>> Either FB makes people stupid or it attracts them. A “25 year mechanic” who 
>> has half a brain would know better than that.
>> 
>> Do I understand that they were suggesting dumping R-134a in on top of R-12 
>> in the same system?
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:23 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Well they were talking about recharging a R12 system. A “25 year mechanic “ 
>>> says just buy the fill adapter and dump in 134. I say that won’t work then 
>>> others chime in it’ll be fine, I don’t know anything
>>> 
>>> --FT


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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

That's it, thanks Fred!

No 126, but it does have 123, 129 and 140.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 4, 2020 3:43:19 PM Frederick Moir via Mercedes :

> Differentials.pdf
> 
> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 3:33 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Dave M. has a spread sheet of differentials on his website, I know it
>> covers 124 and 126 cars, don't know that it covers 123 cars.
>> 
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> 
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> -- 
> Fred Moir
> Lynn MA
> Diesel preferred
> 
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Congrats Mike, sounds like great work!  Bravo!

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 4, 2020 4:38:21 PM Michael Esh via Mercedes :

> I just put the drivetrain (engine, transmission and rear end) from a 84 300D 
> into my 83 240D. The rear end I used was a 3.07.  It is working out very 
> well. Plenty of pull in the lower gears and high end cruise at 70 to 80 is 
> pretty comfortable. Huge difference from the 3.69 rear end I had in the 240.  
> Improved my 0-60 mph from 23 seconds to 14.
> 
> Also, had the AC converted to cross flow condenser and Sanderson compressor.  
> It is working great and stays nice cool even when idling at the stoplights.  
> Temps in western Michigan have been in the low to mid 90’s this week. Thanks 
> again to Dan for connection to Klima Kits.
> 
> My hope is I will enjoy this car for many years.
> 
> Mike
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:14 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 3:42 pm, Frederick Moir via Mercedes wrote:
>>> Differentials.pdf
>> 
>> Hmm, would a 3.46 from a non turbo 300D be an upgrade for a 240D in a
>> world with 70+ speed limits?
>> 
>> Looks like a 1987 300D diff would do what Karl wants, maybe with a rear
>> cover change if he puts it in a W115/W123.
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Basically if the R12 has all leaked out, all you need to do is put R134 
fittings on it and charge it.  Nothing else is required.


On 7/4/2020 4:26 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Either FB makes people stupid or it attracts them. A “25 year mechanic” who has 
half a brain would know better than that.

Do I understand that they were suggesting dumping R-134a in on top of R-12 in 
the same system?

-D


On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:23 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Well they were talking about recharging a R12 system. A “25 year mechanic “ 
says just buy the fill adapter and dump in 134. I say that won’t work then 
others chime in it’ll be fine, I don’t know anything

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:14 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
wrote:

Closed group.

-D



On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:01 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

I don’t even know...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/W124GroupNA/permalink/896211494216940/

--FT
Sent from iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Classic 240D for restoration

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

It’s junk. Probably leaves 4 tracks in the snow. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Must have been hit hard in the back. Lots of bondo. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:10 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Asking for more pics
>> 
>> Bob R
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> Classic 240D for restoration
>>> 
>>> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/7153050934.html
>>> 
>>> Please go to the preferences page if you don't want to receive 
>>> email-a-friend messages in the future. 
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>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Mini Split and More

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Nice

On 7/4/2020 4:24 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

So my HVAC engineer neighbor was over the other night and I was asking him 
about his opinion on a mini-split in the garage…

His take? Buy a portable 12,000 BTU unit and use that, forget about a 
mini-split.

I bought one at Lowe’s today. I’m going to try it out in the morning tomorrow. 
It should be a pretty wicked test, as we’ve been having 95+ degree days of late 
with heat indexes approaching 100. This can also act as a backup for the house 
in the event that the house AC pukes for whatever reason - we can use it to 
cool a couple of rooms in an emergency.

I’ve got to do distributor caps, rotors and insulators on the 420E, so I’ll 
pull it in early, shut the door and fire this thing up and see how it does. Not 
sure how I’m going to vent it at present, but that’s something I can work out.

He also suggested that I insulate the garage doors, too.

More as I know it.

I also bought my hybrid electric water heater. I was planning on doing this in 
August, since I just dropped $6k last week on a new AC system for the house, 
which is working quite well, I would add. While I was wandering the aisles of 
Lowe’s I went by the water heaters to see if they still had any of the one I 
wanted. They did, and it was marked down $300 from the regular $1299. Bought 
the last one they had and let them carry the paper for 18 months, too.

So maybe next weekend I’ll have the resident plumber install the new water 
heater. I already had him survey the existing setup to determine what he’ll 
need to do the job, so that’s done. Another significant decrease in energy 
consumption, *and* some cooling for the garage as well.

-D
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Diesel 1999 Mercedes

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

If the engine is good this is a steal.

On 7/4/2020 3:07 PM, Frederick Moir via Mercedes wrote:

Not mine. etc.

-- Forwarded message -
From: 
Date: Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 3:59 PM
Subject: Diesel 1999 Mercedes
To: 


fred4s...@gmail.com forwarded you this from craigslist:
--
Diesel 1999 Mercedes

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/pts/7146893894.html
--

*Please go to the preferences page

if you don't want to receive email-a-friend messages in the future.*




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Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Oh my god, it is unbelievable how stupid people are there, especially 
those that are the supposed experts.


On 7/4/2020 3:01 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

I don’t even know...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/W124GroupNA/permalink/896211494216940/

--FT
Sent from iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Either FB makes people stupid or it attracts them. A “25 year mechanic” who has 
half a brain would know better than that.

Do I understand that they were suggesting dumping R-134a in on top of R-12 in 
the same system?

-D

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:23 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well they were talking about recharging a R12 system. A “25 year mechanic “ 
> says just buy the fill adapter and dump in 134. I say that won’t work then 
> others chime in it’ll be fine, I don’t know anything 
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:14 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Closed group.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:01 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I don’t even know...
>>> 
>>> https://www.facebook.com/groups/W124GroupNA/permalink/896211494216940/
>>> 
>>> --FT
>>> Sent from iPhone
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
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[MBZ] OT - Mini Split and More

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

So my HVAC engineer neighbor was over the other night and I was asking him 
about his opinion on a mini-split in the garage…

His take? Buy a portable 12,000 BTU unit and use that, forget about a 
mini-split.

I bought one at Lowe’s today. I’m going to try it out in the morning tomorrow. 
It should be a pretty wicked test, as we’ve been having 95+ degree days of late 
with heat indexes approaching 100. This can also act as a backup for the house 
in the event that the house AC pukes for whatever reason - we can use it to 
cool a couple of rooms in an emergency.

I’ve got to do distributor caps, rotors and insulators on the 420E, so I’ll 
pull it in early, shut the door and fire this thing up and see how it does. Not 
sure how I’m going to vent it at present, but that’s something I can work out.

He also suggested that I insulate the garage doors, too.

More as I know it.

I also bought my hybrid electric water heater. I was planning on doing this in 
August, since I just dropped $6k last week on a new AC system for the house, 
which is working quite well, I would add. While I was wandering the aisles of 
Lowe’s I went by the water heaters to see if they still had any of the one I 
wanted. They did, and it was marked down $300 from the regular $1299. Bought 
the last one they had and let them carry the paper for 18 months, too.

So maybe next weekend I’ll have the resident plumber install the new water 
heater. I already had him survey the existing setup to determine what he’ll 
need to do the job, so that’s done. Another significant decrease in energy 
consumption, *and* some cooling for the garage as well.

-D
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Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Well they were talking about recharging a R12 system. A “25 year mechanic “ 
says just buy the fill adapter and dump in 134. I say that won’t work then 
others chime in it’ll be fine, I don’t know anything 

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:14 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Closed group.
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:01 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I don’t even know...
>> 
>> https://www.facebook.com/groups/W124GroupNA/permalink/896211494216940/
>> 
>> --FT
>> Sent from iPhone
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>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Closed group.

-D


> On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:01 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I don’t even know...
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/W124GroupNA/permalink/896211494216940/
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Diesel 1999 Mercedes

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Check that. Good left fender door etc

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 5:00 PM, Buggered Benzmail  
> wrote:
> 
> Yeah Good right fender and new tires too I was going to swap over to the 
> $600E320 but I think I’m going to sell that one. Too bad it’s too far away or 
> I’d be all over that. $300 would probably get it
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 4:43 pm, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:
>>> That and my wrecked 99 $500E300 would make a whole
>> 
>> Yours has a good left fender, and enough W210 wheels to make a set?
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Diesel 1999 Mercedes

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Yeah Good right fender and new tires too I was going to swap over to the 
$600E320 but I think I’m going to sell that one. Too bad it’s too far away or 
I’d be all over that. $300 would probably get it

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> On Sat, July 4, 2020 4:43 pm, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:
>> That and my wrecked 99 $500E300 would make a whole
> 
> Yours has a good left fender, and enough W210 wheels to make a set?
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Diesel 1999 Mercedes

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

On Sat, July 4, 2020 4:43 pm, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:
> That and my wrecked 99 $500E300 would make a whole

Yours has a good left fender, and enough W210 wheels to make a set?

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Diesel 1999 Mercedes

[Frederick Moir via Mercedes]

Mitch.
I have a surplus of 124 wheels, free for anyone on the list.

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 4:26 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Nice lawn ornament.
> Could be a nice project for somebody with a donor body.
> How many W124 wheels does it come with?
>
> Mitch.
>
> >
> > https://newhaven.craigslist.org/pts/7146893894.html
>
>
>
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>
>

-- 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


MBZ Rims & Tyres.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Diesel 1999 Mercedes

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

That and my wrecked 99 $500E300 would make a whole

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:26 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Nice lawn ornament.
> Could be a nice project for somebody with a donor body.
> How many W124 wheels does it come with?
> 
> Mitch.
> 
>> 
>> https://newhaven.craigslist.org/pts/7146893894.html
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Michael Esh via Mercedes]

I just put the drivetrain (engine, transmission and rear end) from a 84 300D 
into my 83 240D. The rear end I used was a 3.07.  It is working out very well. 
Plenty of pull in the lower gears and high end cruise at 70 to 80 is pretty 
comfortable. Huge difference from the 3.69 rear end I had in the 240.  Improved 
my 0-60 mph from 23 seconds to 14. 

Also, had the AC converted to cross flow condenser and Sanderson compressor.  
It is working great and stays nice cool even when idling at the stoplights.  
Temps in western Michigan have been in the low to mid 90’s this week. Thanks 
again to Dan for connection to Klima Kits. 

My hope is I will enjoy this car for many years. 

Mike


> On Jul 4, 2020, at 4:14 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> On Sat, July 4, 2020 3:42 pm, Frederick Moir via Mercedes wrote:
>> Differentials.pdf
> 
> Hmm, would a 3.46 from a non turbo 300D be an upgrade for a 240D in a
> world with 70+ speed limits?
> 
> Looks like a 1987 300D diff would do what Karl wants, maybe with a rear
> cover change if he puts it in a W115/W123.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Diesel 1999 Mercedes

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

Nice lawn ornament.
Could be a nice project for somebody with a donor body.
How many W124 wheels does it come with?

Mitch.

>
> https://newhaven.craigslist.org/pts/7146893894.html



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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

On Sat, July 4, 2020 3:42 pm, Frederick Moir via Mercedes wrote:
> Differentials.pdf

Hmm, would a 3.46 from a non turbo 300D be an upgrade for a 240D in a
world with 70+ speed limits?

Looks like a 1987 300D diff would do what Karl wants, maybe with a rear
cover change if he puts it in a W115/W123.

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[MBZ] Fwd: Diesel 1999 Mercedes

[Frederick Moir via Mercedes]

Not mine. etc.

-- Forwarded message -
From: 
Date: Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 3:59 PM
Subject: Diesel 1999 Mercedes
To: 


fred4s...@gmail.com forwarded you this from craigslist:
--
Diesel 1999 Mercedes

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/pts/7146893894.html
--

*Please go to the preferences page

if you don't want to receive email-a-friend messages in the future.*


-- 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred
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[MBZ] Fakebook 124 AC idiocy

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

I don’t even know...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/W124GroupNA/permalink/896211494216940/

--FT
Sent from iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

On Sat, July 4, 2020 2:16 pm, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes wrote:
> Yes, that would be quite expensive to ship! I am not sure how much one
> would weigh?

I don't know, but $50 plus shipping has got to be less than $250.
Problem is, the halfshafts are holding the oil in it so opening it up,
draining the fluid and pulling the axles would be a bit of work/mess.
Hmm, lets make that $50 plus $25 packing plus actual freight. I'll have to
double box it and bag it.

Looks like Car-part.com is treating 1976-1979 differentials differently
from 1980+. The later ones give search results including W124 and W126.
That's probably the annular vs homokinetic axles, but that doesn't mean
anything other than the newer ones they probably leave the axle flanges on
the diff.
I think mine's an older one. Unfortunately I can't remember what it came
off from, other than it was an automatic 240D and I'm 90% sure it was
W123.
Cheapest ones on car-part that list a price are $175 in San Jose,
California for pre-1980.

Do they have Pick-A-Part yards around Portland?

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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Frederick Moir via Mercedes]

Differentials.pdf

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 3:33 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Dave M. has a spread sheet of differentials on his website, I know it
> covers 124 and 126 cars, don't know that it covers 123 cars.
>
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
>
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>

-- 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


differentials.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

The cylinder came with 2 rods, the one already installed on it the 
instructions say are for 123, the other rod is for 126.  I have 
completely disconnected it from the clutch pedal so length should not 
matter as far as bleeding goes.  I am going to try the oil can method 
next with a longer piece of hose so I can watch what is happening with 
the reservoir.


On 7/4/2020 2:12 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Kaleb,
Port of last resort, try stacking some washers under the master cyl till
you get some free travel at the clutch pedal, not as a permanent fix, but
to get a clutch that works..

At the moment, I'm almost convinced the rod is too long... bring the car
closer to computer so I can have a better look at the issue  ;

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 11:45 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I don’t feel any resistance what so ever when pushing the pedal. What I
have done today is I unbolted the rod from the pedal so it is all the way
up, still continuing with the line hooked from brake caliper to slave
cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several minutes, closed the bleed
port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal (which requires being
pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went thru this several
times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil squirt cans and
will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from under the car and
pump fluid in while watching the reservoir.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 

wrote:

When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should

have

1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
pressure engagement.

If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be

letting

fluid into the piston to push the slave.

No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no

clutch...

Is there an adjuster on the rod?
Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it

possible

to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
done one.


On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
the top on its own if you pop it up a little

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com>

wrote:

Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing

stays

on better.

As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal

should

return to up position... is the return spring OK?


On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Something like this?

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com>

wrote:

My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned

hand

pump oil gun.
I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump

output

pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just

not

tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you

don't

want it under the hood].

With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake

fluid

from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...

Check

the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill

it.

When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you

have

displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and

remove

the

line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the

cap...

At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system

and

you

should have a clutch that works.



On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now

down

to

bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no

pedal

action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
reading something about certain brands of replacement master

cylinder

the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe

an

8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try

bleeding

it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?


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Re: [MBZ] W116 jack point patch panels

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Often if the jack points are thin it is worth doing the whole rocker. But
honestly a small patch would be simple to fab. Tricky part is making it
disappear; eastwood sells a little bender to make a valley for the weld
metal

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020, 11:48 AM Allan Streib via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Thanks -- I found those also. Rocker panels are available, have not
> found anything smaller or specific to the jack support area.
>
> Allan
>
> Allan Streib  writes:
>
> > Noticing some rust bubbles around the front jack points on my 300SD.
> >
> > Does anyone make a repair kit/patch panel for this or is it DIY?
> > Guessing it's a pretty common trouble spot for rust.
> >
> > Allan
>
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Dave M. has a spread sheet of differentials on his website, I know it covers 
124 and 126 cars, don't know that it covers 123 cars.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Kaleb,
Port of last resort, try stacking some washers under the master cyl till
you get some free travel at the clutch pedal, not as a permanent fix, but
to get a clutch that works..

At the moment, I'm almost convinced the rod is too long... bring the car
closer to computer so I can have a better look at the issue  ;

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 11:45 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I don’t feel any resistance what so ever when pushing the pedal. What I
> have done today is I unbolted the rod from the pedal so it is all the way
> up, still continuing with the line hooked from brake caliper to slave
> cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several minutes, closed the bleed
> port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal (which requires being
> pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went thru this several
> times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil squirt cans and
> will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from under the car and
> pump fluid in while watching the reservoir.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should
> have
> > 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
> > pressure engagement.
> >
> > If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
> > covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be
> letting
> > fluid into the piston to push the slave.
> >
> > No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no
> clutch...
> > Is there an adjuster on the rod?
> > Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it
> possible
> > to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
> > done one.
> >
> >> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
> >> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
> >>> I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
> >> stays
> >>> on better.
> >>>
> >>> As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
> >> should
> >>> return to up position... is the return spring OK?
> >>>
>  On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>  mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>  Something like this?
> 
>  https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
> 
>  Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  wrote:
> >
> > My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
> >> hand
> > pump oil gun.
> > I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
> >> output
> > pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> > Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
> >> not
> > tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you
> don't
> > want it under the hood].
> >
> > With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
>  fluid
> > from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
> >> Check
> > the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill
> it.
> >
> > When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
> >> have
> > displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and
> remove
>  the
> > line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
>  cap...
> >
> > At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system
> and
>  you
> > should have a clutch that works.
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now
> down
> >> to
> >> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
> >> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
> >> pedal
> >> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
> >> reading something about certain brands of replacement master
> cylinder
> >> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
> >> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
> >> an
> >> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try
> bleeding
> >> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> 

Re: [MBZ] Get'r Done! License plate version

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Exactly, bend up the old plate at the ends, screw the new on top of the old.  
Use shallow screws so they don't hit the body.  Plates are soft aluminum, 
rusted screws that won't come out are steel, much easier to make new holes in 
the plates.

Crude but effective, faster, and if needed I can remove the new plate and 
transfer to another car.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 4, 2020 1:29:52 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes :

> On Sat, July 4, 2020 12:59 pm, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
>> If you are going to "punch some new holes" with a drill, just drill out
>> the old screws and be done with it ...
> 
> I think he was talking about punching holes in the old plate and screwing
> the new to the old. But I don't know how to do that without bending up the
> old plate so the new won't lay flat.
> 
> I'd just get a tube of silicone caulk and glue the new plate onto the old
> one.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I don’t feel any resistance what so ever when pushing the pedal. What I have 
done today is I unbolted the rod from the pedal so it is all the way up, still 
continuing with the line hooked from brake caliper to slave cylinder. I pumped 
the brake pedal for several minutes, closed the bleed port on the slave, 
reconnected the rod to the pedal (which requires being pushed in slightly, and 
still no pedal action. I went thru this several times and made no progress. I 
went and got one of those oil squirt cans and will get a longer piece of line 
so I can run it out from under the car and pump fluid in while watching the 
reservoir. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
> 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
> pressure engagement.
> 
> If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
> covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be letting
> fluid into the piston to push the slave.
> 
> No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no clutch...
> Is there an adjuster on the rod?
> Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it possible
> to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
> done one.
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
>> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
>>> I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
>> stays
>>> on better.
>>> 
>>> As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
>> should
>>> return to up position... is the return spring OK?
>>> 
 On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 Something like this?
 
 https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 wrote:
> 
> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
>> hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
>> output
> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
>> not
> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> want it under the hood].
> 
> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
 fluid
> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
>> Check
> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> 
> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
>> have
> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
 the
> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
 cap...
> 
> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
 you
> should have a clutch that works.
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down
>> to
>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
>> pedal
>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
>> an
>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Ok thanks. Pretty sure all the non turbo cars were different. I will look
for a technical manual but if you can check the stamped number on the diff
I would appreciate it Kevin.






On Sat, Jul 4, 2020, 11:08 AM Kevin Kraly via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I found a 240D parts car that has everything I need for mine,  the
> driver’s seat, windshield, and possibly other things I might find. The
> person is selling it since the differential went out. everything else seems
> to work but the AC, so when I pick it up on Monday, I will have to make a
> decision to either part it out or just replace the differential and put it
> up for sale. unlike mine, it is the fancier one with the sunroof and power
> windows.
> Kevin and Hillsboro, Oregon
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 9:58 AM, OK Don via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > You need an MB Technical Data book for the 123. My oldest one covers the
> > 107, 124, 126 and 201, from 1985 to 1988, sorry.
> >
> >> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:46 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Yes it is from an 85 300td. I think it has a taller diff than other 123
> cRs
> >> because the 1st gear for 85 is lower. Thanks for checking. Kinda
> surprised
> >> it went but the stethoscooe doesnt lie.
> >>
> >> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020, 4:25 PM Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Karl asks:
> >>>
>  Looks like the diff is gone. Anybody have a 2.88 they would part with
> >>>
> >>> If that is from a 1985, maybe.
> >>> Give me a day or two to look.
> >>>
> >>> Rick
> >>> ___
> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>>
> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>>
> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
> >
> > --
> > OK Don
> >
> > "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> > pause and reflect." Mark Twain
> >
> > “Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”
> Wernher
> > Von Braun
> > 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> > 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> > 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
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> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Classic 240D for restoration

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Must have been hit hard in the back. Lots of bondo. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:10 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Asking for more pics
> 
> Bob R
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
>> 
>> Classic 240D for restoration
>> 
>> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/7153050934.html
>> 
>> Please go to the preferences page if you don't want to receive 
>> email-a-friend messages in the future. 
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[G Mann via Mercedes]

When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
pressure engagement.

If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be letting
fluid into the piston to push the slave.

No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no clutch...
Is there an adjuster on the rod?
Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it possible
to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
done one.

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
> > I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
> stays
> > on better.
> >
> > As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
> should
> > return to up position... is the return spring OK?
> >
> >> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Something like this?
> >>
> >> https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
> hand
> >>> pump oil gun.
> >>> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
> output
> >>> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> >>> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
> not
> >>> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> >>> want it under the hood].
> >>>
> >>> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
> >> fluid
> >>> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
> Check
> >>> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> >>>
> >>> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
> have
> >>> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
> >> the
> >>> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
> >> cap...
> >>>
> >>> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
> >> you
> >>> should have a clutch that works.
> >>>
> >>>
>  On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>  mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>  I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down
> to
>  bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>  cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
> pedal
>  action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>  reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>  the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>  order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
> an
>  8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>  it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
> 
> 
>  ___
>  http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
>  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
>  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> >>> ___
> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>>
> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>>
> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Check with Greyhound. They do large parcels for cheap.

-D

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 2:16 PM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, that would be quite expensive to ship! I am not sure how much one would 
> weigh? I have contact information from a guy that offered one for $250 to the 
> lady selling the 240D if I decide to go that route. My new guide dog is 
> currently in training until around the new year, and my wife’s guide dog 
> isn’t very good in the passenger seat since he would rather just look around 
> than give me proper directions!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:27 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> And here I was, getting ready to jokingly offer Karl an old W123 240D diff
>> I have, as a 3.69 or whatever it is will surely get off the line quicker
>> than a 2.88...
>> 
>> But shipping a diff from Cathey's house or Klebville would probably be
>> cheaper than from Michigan.
>> 
>> Maybe stick a seeing eye dog in the passenger seat and come get it? I'll
>> let you have it for free if you pick it up in person.
>> 
>>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:08 pm, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I found a 240D parts car that has everything I need for mine,  ... The
>>> person is selling it since the differential went out.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Kevin Kraly via Mercedes]

Yes, that would be quite expensive to ship! I am not sure how much one would 
weigh? I have contact information from a guy that offered one for $250 to the 
lady selling the 240D if I decide to go that route. My new guide dog is 
currently in training until around the new year, and my wife’s guide dog isn’t 
very good in the passenger seat since he would rather just look around than 
give me proper directions!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:27 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> And here I was, getting ready to jokingly offer Karl an old W123 240D diff
> I have, as a 3.69 or whatever it is will surely get off the line quicker
> than a 2.88...
> 
> But shipping a diff from Cathey's house or Klebville would probably be
> cheaper than from Michigan.
> 
> Maybe stick a seeing eye dog in the passenger seat and come get it? I'll
> let you have it for free if you pick it up in person.
> 
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:08 pm, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes wrote:
>> I found a 240D parts car that has everything I need for mine,  ... The
>> person is selling it since the differential went out.
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

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Re: [MBZ] W116 jack point patch panels

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Thanks -- I found those also. Rocker panels are available, have not
found anything smaller or specific to the jack support area.

Allan

Allan Streib  writes:

> Noticing some rust bubbles around the front jack points on my 300SD.
>
> Does anyone make a repair kit/patch panel for this or is it DIY?
> Guessing it's a pretty common trouble spot for rust.
>
> Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Get'r Done! License plate version

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

On Sat, July 4, 2020 12:59 pm, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
> If you are going to "punch some new holes" with a drill, just drill out
> the old screws and be done with it ...

I think he was talking about punching holes in the old plate and screwing
the new to the old. But I don't know how to do that without bending up the
old plate so the new won't lay flat.

I'd just get a tube of silicone caulk and glue the new plate onto the old
one.

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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

And here I was, getting ready to jokingly offer Karl an old W123 240D diff
I have, as a 3.69 or whatever it is will surely get off the line quicker
than a 2.88...

But shipping a diff from Cathey's house or Klebville would probably be
cheaper than from Michigan.

Maybe stick a seeing eye dog in the passenger seat and come get it? I'll
let you have it for free if you pick it up in person.

On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:08 pm, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes wrote:
> I found a 240D parts car that has everything I need for mine,  ... The
> person is selling it since the differential went out.


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[MBZ] Fwd: Classic 240D for restoration

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

Asking for more pics

Bob R

Sent from my iPad


> 
> Classic 240D for restoration
> 
> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/7153050934.html
> 
> Please go to the preferences page if you don't want to receive email-a-friend 
> messages in the future. 
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Kevin Kraly via Mercedes]

I found a 240D parts car that has everything I need for mine,  the driver’s 
seat, windshield, and possibly other things I might find. The person is selling 
it since the differential went out. everything else seems to work but the AC, 
so when I pick it up on Monday, I will have to make a decision to either part 
it out or just replace the differential and put it up for sale. unlike mine, it 
is the fancier one with the sunroof and power windows.
Kevin and Hillsboro, Oregon


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 9:58 AM, OK Don via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> You need an MB Technical Data book for the 123. My oldest one covers the
> 107, 124, 126 and 201, from 1985 to 1988, sorry.
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:46 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Yes it is from an 85 300td. I think it has a taller diff than other 123 cRs
>> because the 1st gear for 85 is lower. Thanks for checking. Kinda surprised
>> it went but the stethoscooe doesnt lie.
>> 
>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020, 4:25 PM Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Karl asks:
>>> 
 Looks like the diff is gone. Anybody have a 2.88 they would part with
>>> 
>>> If that is from a 1985, maybe.
>>> Give me a day or two to look.
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 
> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> pause and reflect." Mark Twain
> 
> “Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
> Von Braun
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> ___
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 

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Re: [MBZ] Get'r Done! License plate version

[OK Don via Mercedes]

If you are going to "punch some new holes" with a drill, just drill out the
old screws and be done with it ...

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 10:01 AM Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> The fasteners holding the plate won't come loose, and I've got to put a
> new plate on.  Soaked them for a few days with Kroil, but these fasteners
> seem to be corroded in place.  They were hardware store bought, and that
> particular store did not have the screws in stainless steel.
>
> I think I'm going to just punch some new holes in the plates and screw
> down the new plate over the old.
>
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
>
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>
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>
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[OK Don via Mercedes]

You need an MB Technical Data book for the 123. My oldest one covers the
107, 124, 126 and 201, from 1985 to 1988, sorry.

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:46 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Yes it is from an 85 300td. I think it has a taller diff than other 123 cRs
> because the 1st gear for 85 is lower. Thanks for checking. Kinda surprised
> it went but the stethoscooe doesnt lie.
>
> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020, 4:25 PM Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Karl asks:
> >
> > >Looks like the diff is gone. Anybody have a 2.88 they would part with
> >
> > If that is from a 1985, maybe.
> > Give me a day or two to look.
> >
> > Rick
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to the 
top on its own if you pop it up a little 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
> I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing stays
> on better.
> 
> As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal should
> return to up position... is the return spring OK?
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Something like this?
>> 
>> https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
>>> pump oil gun.
>>> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
>>> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
>>> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
>>> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
>>> want it under the hood].
>>> 
>>> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
>> fluid
>>> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
>>> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
>>> 
>>> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
>>> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
>> the
>>> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
>> cap...
>>> 
>>> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
>> you
>>> should have a clutch that works.
>>> 
>>> 
 On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
 bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
 cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
 action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
 reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
 the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
 order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
 it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
 
 
 ___
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 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Throw in a complete set of "50 Shades of Gray" with the new renter... all
the "master / slave" stuff will be OK then...

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:44 AM Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> As long as they're the same color it's not racist.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing stays
on better.

As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal should
return to up position... is the return spring OK?

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Something like this?
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
> > pump oil gun.
> > I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
> > pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> > Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
> > tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> > want it under the hood].
> >
> > With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
> fluid
> > from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
> > the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> >
> > When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
> > displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
> the
> > line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
> cap...
> >
> > At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
> you
> > should have a clutch that works.
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
> >> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
> >> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
> >> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
> >> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
> >> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
> >> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
> >> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
> >> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
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> >>
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> >>
> >>
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[MBZ] Get'r Done! License plate version

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

The fasteners holding the plate won't come loose, and I've got to put a new 
plate on.  Soaked them for a few days with Kroil, but these fasteners seem to 
be corroded in place.  They were hardware store bought, and that particular 
store did not have the screws in stainless steel.

I think I'm going to just punch some new holes in the plates and screw down the 
new plate over the old.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

I had to replace a W123 diff once.  It was noisy and I had a parts car, so...

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] W116 jack point patch panels

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Someone posted a good site for the 12e panels within the last week or two.
Do a search of the archive and it will come up. It was under w123.

On Thu, Jul 2, 2020, 8:01 PM Allan Streib via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Noticing some rust bubbles around the front jack points on my 300SD.
>
> Does anyone make a repair kit/patch panel for this or is it DIY?
> Guessing it's a pretty common trouble spot for rust.
>
> Allan
>
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Re: [MBZ] w123 2.88 diff anyone?

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Yes it is from an 85 300td. I think it has a taller diff than other 123 cRs
because the 1st gear for 85 is lower. Thanks for checking. Kinda surprised
it went but the stethoscooe doesnt lie.

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020, 4:25 PM Rick Knoble via Mercedes 
wrote:

> Karl asks:
>
> >Looks like the diff is gone. Anybody have a 2.88 they would part with
>
> If that is from a 1985, maybe.
> Give me a day or two to look.
>
> Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

As long as they're the same color it's not racist.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

In that case should I disconnect the rod from the pedal while bleeding? 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 9:28 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, I think that is the problem.  The rod is too long.  Curt has been down 
> this path.
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Jul 4, 2020 10:25:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :
> 
>> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line 
>> up with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>>> 
>>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>>> 
 With the clutch pedal up
>>> 
>>> ^^^ Key words there.
>>> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
>>> cylinder.
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I did compare it next to the old one before installing it and on the old one 
the rod stuck out further. Of course it might not have been fully seated in the 
bore. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 8:31 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> That's right!  And make sure your rental listing doesn't say anything about 
> a M*r bedroom!
> 
> Kidding aside, I think you have touched on the problem: rod for the master 
> cylinder is too long.
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Jul 4, 2020 8:16:36 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes :
> 
>> Please refrain from using these racist designations
>> 
>> --FT
>> Sent from iPhone
>> 
 On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Oh crap you are right. I should complain to the parts sites too. What should we 
call them?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:16 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Please refrain from using these racist designations
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Yes, I think that is the problem.  The rod is too long.  Curt has been down 
this path.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 4, 2020 10:25:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line up 
> with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>> 
>>> With the clutch pedal up
>> 
>> ^^^ Key words there.
>> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
>> cylinder.
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

If it’s like the clevis rod for a brake cylinder, there should be a small 
amount (1/8”) of play between the end of the rod and the piston in the clutch 
cylinder.

-D

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:25 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line up 
> with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> With the clutch pedal up
>> 
>> ^^^ Key words there.
>> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
>> cylinder.
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

The pedal stays up on its own with spring pressure. It only stays down if you 
push it. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:03 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 7:43 am, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> With the clutch pedal up
>>> 
>> 
>> ^^^ Key words there.
>> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
>> cylinder.
> 
> 
> If you just want to get it done this time, tie the clutch pedal to the
> steering wheel with a piece of string.
> 
> If you want to do it again, make a clutch pedal prop stick, drill a hole
> in it, and hang it on your tool board for next time.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line up 
with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> 
>> 
>> With the clutch pedal up
> 
> ^^^ Key words there.
> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
> cylinder.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Something like this?

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> want it under the hood].
> 
> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake fluid
> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> 
> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove the
> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the cap...
> 
> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and you
> should have a clutch that works.
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

That's right!  And make sure your rental listing doesn't say anything about a 
M*r bedroom!

Kidding aside, I think you have touched on the problem: rod for the master 
cylinder is too long.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 4, 2020 8:16:36 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes :

> Please refrain from using these racist designations
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder
> 
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Re: [MBZ] jasper transmissions

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

DIY: I read through a blog of a fellow who rebuilt one (Mercedes), not 
difficult but time consuming.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 3, 2020 9:46:31 PM Allan Streib via Mercedes :

> Honda Element transmission went out and left me on the side of the road
> tonight.
> 
> I had thought it was a shift solenoid issue, replaced it about a month
> ago and it seemed better. But in the heat today it just would not engage
> gears. Was OK when cold but as it warmed up it got worse and worse and
> finally would not engage at all. Fluid level OK.
> 
> I kind of want to keep the car since it's otherwise pretty solid and I
> will have a son in college who could take it this winter. Figure a
> transmisison job will be less than buying anything else reliable for the
> same money.
> 
> Anyone familiar with Jasper transmissions? A glance at their website
> seems to indicate they only sell through installers. Are they generally
> good?
> 
> DIY rebuild feasible? Never done that.
> 
> Allan
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Please refrain from using these racist designations

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

On Sat, July 4, 2020 7:43 am, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
>
>>
>> With the clutch pedal up
>>
>
> ^^^ Key words there.
> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
> cylinder.


If you just want to get it done this time, tie the clutch pedal to the
steering wheel with a piece of string.

If you want to do it again, make a clutch pedal prop stick, drill a hole
in it, and hang it on your tool board for next time.

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

>
> With the clutch pedal up

^^^ Key words there.
If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
cylinder.

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