Re: [MBZ] Harmonic Balancer
Jim Cathey wrote: the bearing is a standard roller bearing, but it doesn't rotate more than a degree or two in use, so the race gets notches in it, That was a bit of bad design. The tensioner rocker should have been a stout sleeve bearing, it would probably last longer. It's also a not-so-standard double-race bearing about an inch in depth, as those of us who have actually tried to replace just the bearing have found. I ended up using two standard single-race bearings with a shim between to get the depth right. So far, so good. The early designs were sleeve bearing and they didn't last nearly as long as the later design - often failed without much warning. Were recalled. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Jargon: Request for clarification/translation
Peter Frederick wrote: ALDA is short hand for Altitude Compensator (MB official terminology, actually). Pressure sensor on the injection pump to automatically compensate for atmospheric pressure on NA diesels and to add fuel with added boost on turbos. The altitude compensator on non-turbo diesels is an ADA, while the pressure fuel enrichment control on a turbo is an ALDA. They are similar devices but serve different functions. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Considering 87 190D 5 sp
Rusty Cullens wrote: It came new with a 80 degree thermostat. The non-turbo OM60x engines came with an 85 deg C thermostat. All the turbos had an 80. Both displayed a coolant temp of between 85-92 deg. C. A display of 65 deg on any of them is way too low and will degrade economy and result in excessive engine wear. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL
EDWARD DENNIS wrote: Hi, I use a white marine wheel bearing grease on the threads foe 20 years and proper torque. Ed in Chicago (Salt way too heavy) The problem with most greases is that they migrate too much and are VERY good lubricants. Paraffin doesn't move around much and is NOT a super lubricant (and both of those characteristics are desirable in this application). It also has the advantage of being solid at most outside temperatures and as such can be tossed as a hunk into your tool box and is not at all messy to install/apply. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] overheating engines
Zoltan Finks wrote: Okay, good to get into this talk about coolant and head gaskets. Let me ask this: One thing I noticed the day I bought the car is that just a few moments after parking the car, the top radiator hose was not hard. If the coolant is heated and the cooling system is sealed, then there will be more pressure in the system when the coolant is hot than when it is cold. 201 and 124 coolant reservoirs are notorious for cracking so there will be NO pressure whether hot or cold. New reservoirs are not terribly expensive (but more so than they used to be). If the cap has failed there may also be little or no pressure. Different Mercedes models built during the 1980s had 1.0, 1.2 and 1.4 bar pressure caps. Starting in the '90s Mercedes now supplies only 1.4 bar caps for all models and all years. The rubber parts of caps routinely fail in the 15-20 year time frame even in well maintained cars. And when you squeeze it (still does the same thing today) you hear some sort of ticking noises from down in the engine somewhere. Could be the chatter of the thermostat vents. No idea what that means in your engine (by the way what year, engine and chassis are you describing - such information really is the only courteous way to engage in an extended discussion). Coolant being pushed thru the cooling passages usually makes a gurgling sound. Do these conditions ring a bell with anyone? I'm used to a top radiator hose being hard after shutting the engine off, as there's pressure in the system. Why don't we start three posts: one for the impatient (*sigh*), and one for those looking to make a snappy joke, and one for those who are open to thoughtful questions. I have NO idea what that last sentence means. Was it a question? Isn't it still obligatory to use a question mark to end a question? Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently
Curt Raymond wrote: *SIGH* The coolant is there for a reason you take it away and bad things happen. Try overheating your Honda, thats likely got an all aluminum ENGINE. You'll not only crack the head but ruin the block. You want things light you use aluminum. You want heavier duty you pay by burning more fuel. Its a pretty simple exchange in most cases. My '85 190D 2.2l has the same 72hp that my '83 240D had. The 190D weighs like 600# less and it shows in top speed, acceleration and fuel economy... The OM601 engine in your 190D is NOT remotely the same OM616 engine in a 240D. The former is about 20% more efficient, gets almost 25% better economy, starts without the block heater at 10-20 colder temperatures. I expect the only common parts for the two engines are the injectors, glow lugs and radiator cap! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak
Harry Watkins wrote: I recently replaced the delivery valves o-rings, copper seals and springs on an 86 300 SDL and followed this torque procedure; go to 25 ft lbs and loosen twice, the third and final torque was 30 ft lbs. IIRC that was Marshall's instruction from long ago. I was not sure if they should be done one at a time or not, but that's what I did. Its been over a month and all is well so far. Please keep the area clean, clean, clean. Woe! The Mercedes specs are in Nm, not lb-ft. Multiply Nm by 0.74 to convert from Nm to lb-ft. The delivery valves (or any part attached to the pump) must NOT be overtorqued or unevenly torqued. If they are stressed, the pump may distort or even crack (that can ruin your day). Tighten to 30Nm (22.2 lb-ft) and release. Repeat. Tighten to 30 Nm and then an additional 5 Nm (3.7 lb-ft). That gives a final value of 25.9. Even when properly torqued, the pump housing can occasionally still distort. That will usually cause the pump to make a clattering sound and the engine will idle roughly. To cure this, loosen the fuel lines one at a time until you discover which one is causing the roughness and re-torque that one. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL
What you have just experienced is why Mercedes issued a TSB in the '90s requiring that the extended length lugs (greater than 80 mm total length) used on 107/126 models be replaced with short lugs (50-62 mm) like those used on later 124/201s. Few shops except dealers (and hardly all of them) ever informed their customers that this was a serious problem. For 30+ years I have wiped the threads of the lugs with paraffin EVERY time they were loosened and tightened. That has virtually eliminated corrosion caused thread seizure. Whenever a shop tightens the lugs as soon as I get home I loosen them, apply paraffin, and re-tighten to spec. DO NOT ALLOW THE PARAFFIN TO TOUCH EITHER THE LUG OR WHEEL SEAT. Haven't had a lug seize since I started using this technique. A long extension is MUCH more likely to shear the lug that a rattle gun. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T
LarryT wrote: I am going to replace my VP now rather than wait for it to fail since I'm not sure what kind of oil was used (I doubt it was full synthetic) and then start the clock running again - I checked the manual but did not see the section on replacing the VP. There were instructions with the pump (From Rusty) but I was hoping the WSM would tell me a little something. Looks like I remove the old one, rotate the engine until the slope cam is backed away from the front of the engine before replacing the new pump. It says to pour oil into the vacuum port also - Hmmm.maybe I have a syringe I can push into the hose - Anyway - any guidance to the WSM info or VP replacement would be helpful - You have described the process nicely - better than the Mercedes description as I recall. You need the non-dam gasket for your '91 engine. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels
Dan Weeks wrote: Wow. So the thing has an aluminum head? If the stupid thing can't take a minute at 120C or so, then I'm not sure it's such a good car afterall. Virtually all of the 1st generation aluminum diesel heads (from almost all Euro car makes) were less than spectacularly robust (especially those with turbo equipped engines) and considerably more likely to fail than older engines with iron heads. The 2nd and third generation heads were virtually as durable as the iron heads. The Mercedes heads used in 603.96 engines (1986 Federal certified 126.125s) that were not equipped with factory oxidation traps were very much less likely to crack than the '86 California and '87 Federal cars were all trap equipped. The problem wasn't that the head wouldn't stand 120 deg C, but that it wouldn't tolerate prolonged coolant boiling which requires about 4X the heat to move the coolant through the the phase change window. Trap equipped cars that were largely city driven in stop and go driving experienced a large number cracked heads (between 20-25% by my count). This was because a partially blocked trap (very common in city driven cars) exposed the engine to temperature extremes in stop and go driving with the AC on. If the head didn't crack, once the trap was remove the frequency of head failure dropped, but did NOT vanish. That's because often the head would actually crack under the excessive trap generated heat, but didn't fail until the head was disturbed (like by pulling the head, replacing the head gasket or being seriously overheated). I own an '87 300TD and the service I've received from the 603.96 engine has been exemplary - super car, super engine, super service. If it were to fail tomorrow, It has been the most satisfactory car I've ever owned (but hardly the cheapest to own) for the 20+ years I've owned it! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Winter Mobil 1 for OM617 - what grade?
Steve MacSween wrote: Looking to drive my SD for some all of the winter. Last year I had some IIRC 10w40 ELF synthetic a local shop was selling. Did not like it at all, however we had a short and warm winter so I was able to change out to Rotella earlier than ususal. My question is: I in the past had used Mobil 1 during the winter months but their new grading system leaves me scratching my head. Are ANY of their current grades advisable to use in an OM617 that is going to be starting in temps down to -20? Many VERY knowledgeable people (including the late, GREAT Randy Durrance) - Mercedes professionals - have been using M-1 15W-50 all year round in the northern and Midwest US. I've tried it too and was surprised to learn that the engine cranked faster than with 5W-30 conventional when temps drop much below zero (F) and timing chain wear was halved in EVERY engine I tried this on. Put a bottle of 15W-50 (group IV/V) oil and a bottle of any other 0 or 5W-30/40 (group I, II, III) oil into your freezer overnight. Which one pours easily in the morning? An even better choice in my opinion is Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 or Delvac 1 5W-40 (these are the same formula). Using the oils I've recommended will start reliably all of my OM60x engined cars start down to -15 F without the block heater (and at least -30 F with the block heater - that's the coldest I've ever tried to start my cars). Keeping the fuel flowing at such temps is more of a problem than the engine turning fast enough to start, but that's the the coldest temp I've experienced in the last 40+ years. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels
archer wrote: 1. I wonder if cavitation might play a role in the cracking of cast iron and/or aluminum heads: Cavitation has NEVER been a problem with Mercedes indirect diesels and since ONLY the head and the head gasket were redesigned to eliminate he 603 problems I expect dealing with cavitation had NOTHING to do with making the 603.96 engines bulletproof. The original #14 heads were flawed - didn't have sufficient tolerance to handle minor system failures. Without any OTHER system failures (bad fan clutch, stuck thermostat, partially plugged trap, etc.) the heads held up pretty well. A small percentage of ALL 60x engines, 4, 5 and 6 cylinder with and without turbos did blow out the head gasket between the #1 cylinder and the chain vault allowing pressurized oil into the #1 cylinder and I've heard of a few non-trap 603.96 engine did develop cracked heads I'm told, but the total was less than a few percent if the numbers I've accumulated are representative. All of those OM60x engines were designed to be used with MB coolant and potable water. Nothing else was required if the engine was properly maintained. Driving with a partially plugged trap is driving an engine that has NOT been properly maintained. Measuring and servicing the trap is covered in the engine manual. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W140 1994 S350 Idle problem.
dave walton wrote: I took a road trip last weekend to Long Island to meet a guy that successfully replaced his W140 rodbender diesel engine (603) with one from a 1998 E300 (606). So I'm heading back last night and have been driving for 6 hours and pull into a rest area to take a nap and the engine dies as I'm coasting down the exit ramp. I have just enough momentum to coast into a parking spot. Turn off the car, wait a minute. Turn it on and crank it. Engine turns over, does not start. Repeat process with foot on the gas and it starts right up. Let up on the gas and it dies. No lingering sputtering. It just stops dead. I'm able to move into a secluded parking spot using both petals and take a 3-hour nap. It was maybe 52F outside. I wake up and have the exact same symptoms. I forge ahead hoping not to run into construction traffic. Once I get on the highway I realize I have to pee and as luck would have it, I'm right at the Ohio border and pull into another rest area 15 minutes later. Now when I let my foot off the gas, I'm idling at ~400 rpm. Better... I turn off the car. Do my business. Come back out and the the car starts right up (no petal) and acts normally with an idle at ~600 rpm. Been fine ever since. What you have described is exactly what happens on '95 and earlier 602/603 engines in 124/201s when the overvoltage relay fails or when the engine speed sensor signal doesn't reach the idle control computer (this signal passes through the overvoltage relay). The engine will idle poorly (too slow) when the engine is warm, but will not run without holding the pedal down when the engine is cold. I am not sure if the 603.97 equipped 140 cars have the same system. Replacing the overvoltage relay has restored proper function in the 3 OM60x engines I've owned when the symptoms you describe appeared. In an earlier OM60x engine (not equipped with an overvoltage relay), replacing the connectors from the engine speed sensor to the wiring harness restored function. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Bio-d in new Benzes
Rich Thomas wrote:
A buddy of mine is contemplating getting a new M diesel, one of his
interests is in running bio-d in it. He has been looking at the MB web
site, it says
I would recommend NOT using anything except fuel approved by Mercedes as
fuel in current ('07 or later) diesels. Using anything else will void
the warranty and may lead to major problems with the emissions control
system (and they are EXPENSIVE to repair I've been told).
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
___
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Re: [MBZ] Bio-d in new Benzes
David Hemsley wrote: Please check on the internet for the National Biodiesel Board. They have established a testing criteria for both the fuel and the distributo/seller of same. The following link may also prove beneficial: [1]http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/fuelfactsheets/Myths_Facts.pdf I find it interesting that Mercedes, VW, etc. accepted biodiesel years ago in Europe yet here we are still playing the percentage game. :) In Europe both diesel and bioD is tightly controlled. In the US many of the blends and formulas do not meet the same tight tolerances that the EU has established. Until the US sets TIGHT and uniform standards for BioD, and the BioD available at all fuel stations is uniform, Mercedes has little interest playing. The early 21st century Bosch injection systems sold in the US had injection parts made from different materials than those sold in Europe because of the poor quality of US fuels. Once the ULSD standards were implemented Bosch/Mercedes could use injection parts made from the same materials in US and Euro cars. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] What constitutes harmful overheating? 87 190D
Zoltan Finks wrote: I must say that I am very thankful that this breakdown has been on par with about every one I have ever had in terms of fortuitousness. I looked down and noticed several of the dummy lights glowing. I then saw the engine temperature rising shockingly fast. I threw it in neutral and shut it off as I coasted at around 45 - 50 mph down a long hill. Then started it again to get up a hill, and watched the temp approach the 120 mark and the little red mark. I may have been unwise, but I wanted to get it off the highway and to a safe place. By the time I shut the thing off and rolled to a stop, the gauge was just about touching that top temp reading (120, right?). But I did not let it run for any length of time at that temp. So how bad is what I've done? I mean really, not idealistically. I know that these engines are at least somewhat prone to head gasket failures, aren't they? But I would imagine that like any engine, it can take being badly overheated several times throughout its life. Very likely you've done NO harm. Sounds like you may have thrown the serp belt, the thermostat has locked or you've dumped most of the coolant. Fix the problem. Look for signs of a blown head gasket (oil in coolant or vice versa) or hard coolant hoses after the engine cools over night. Be SURE you completely fill the cooling system and REALLY burp it. Not completely getting all the air out will result in the temp gauge shooting toward the peg as the coolant in the passages that aren't complete filled with coolant tries to boil. Coolant vapor isn't worth a damn as a coolant! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] M103 vs OM603 vs OM617: Help me decide
OK Don wrote: Having owned both 617 and 603 cars, I far prefer the 603. It's a much nicer engine - smoother and quieter. By at least one estimate, must of the heads that are going to crack, have already. Mine has over 300,000 miles, original #14 head, is still strong, and no cracks (yet) (knocking on wood as I type this). I love the SDL - Fewer than 25% of the #14 heads have cracked (despite all the heads brought to the US in '86-'87 being flawed - redesigned in '89). The trap oxidizer was implicated in the head failures based on the fact that most junked 126s and 124s that were equipped with traps also sported cracked heads while the '86 126s without traps (Fed certified, but NOT Calif certified) seldom exhibited head cracks. 603 engined cars that are largely highway driven seldom exhibit head cracks provided they are rarely (and only briefly) overheated, while cars that spent a lot of time in stop and go city traffic seem to have higher than average head cracking problems. My own 603.96 engine with 180+ kmi has no head cracking symptoms. The 603.96 powered 124 and 126s are smoth, wonderful cars to drive and are NOT difficult to maintain, but they have very different maintenance issues than cars powered by 617.95 engines. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Sunroof quit
Zoltan Finks wrote: Good. I forgot about the junk yard option. Or perhaps I could re-tap the threads. I need to do something, as now the wife wants to get rid of the car because the sunroof is broken! (and because it only got 32 mpg on mixed driving) Do NOT try to re-tap the threads. Get a junker assembly. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 78 240D AT fit 83 300D Turbo?
LarryT wrote: Hmm... I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace the B2 as PM for my 78? IIRC, they're not rea expensive - will check on it - The 78 transmissions don't exhibit the B-2 failure. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] PS fluid question
Tom Hargrave wrote: Power steering fluid it transmission fluid that has been packaged in small, expensive cans. Not exactly. It's the base stock used in type A ATF (that hasn't been available in the US in about 20 years). Here's the definitive post as far as I'm concerned: Anyhow, walking back to my workplace from the dealer's it struck me that MB probably don't make their own PS fluid and it is most likely someone elses in an MB bottle. When I got to work I had a chat with a colleague who's done a lot of contract research for the automotive oil industry. He put me in touch with one of the application engineers at Castrol's RD centre. After talking with the Castrol engineer it turns out that MB's PS fluid 'Sheet no. 236.3' is actually old-style 'Type A Suffix A' ATF but minus the red dye. Castrol still supply this fluid as 'Agri-ATF' in 5 litre and 25 litre containers. However, the Castrol engineer did say that Dexron II/III is a perfectly acceptable alternative for MB PS applications. The key issue, it seems, is not to top-up with non-MB fluid during the warranty period. If dealers spot any red colouration in the PS fluid they will not honour a warranty claim, on the basis that non-MB fluid has been used in the system. Type A Suffix A is also the fluid used in the manual gearbox in the 190E, although again without the red dye. The Castrol guy told me that Dexron *can* be used as an alternative, but because it is a more highly friction-modified fluid the synchro action will not be exactly as MB intended when the gearbox was designed. I have therefore drained out the Dexron III that was in my 'box and replaced it with the Type A Suffix A fluid and I can attest that the gearchange is slightly improved, particularly 1-2 and 2-3. BTW it is essential that only ATF is used in these manual gearboxes - the acidic nature of EP-type gear oils attacks the relatively soft synchro. rings that MB uses - shortening the life of the gearbox. ATF is not acidic (I have the details of the chemistry if anyone wants to know - Castrol were very helpful and sent me a fax giving further details). Incidentally, I happen to know that the Type A Suffix A fluid made by the French oil company ELF is not dyed red - maybe they are the people supplying MB? Hope this info. may be of use to someone. Cheers, Eric # Dr Eric Chowanietz Principal Lecturer Department of Electronic Electrical Engineering De Montfort University Tel +44 (0)116 257 7095 Fax +44 (0)116 257 7692 # I use Mobil 1 ATF as it behaves much better in cold weather. Conventional DexronIII/Mercon is a bit too viscous in cold weather. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Blower fuse blows slow
Hans Neureiter wrote: My blower fuse (25A) blows after a few hours of ACC operation, faster if fan is run on high. I suspect a bad blower motor, but is it? How about the pre-resistors or the blower control? Can I supply + battery V directly to the motor and see what the amps are? The fuse gets extremely hot (discoloration of paper in fuse box lid) and the relays in the area (Power seats, Aux fan and Power windows) are too hot to touch. If you are referring to the '82 300SD, the 25 A fuse was retrofitted with a 30A fuse located in a separate fuse box. The original fuse was a tad too small for the job. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] engine speed sensor
ned kleinhenz wrote: Can anyone tell me if the tachometer and the engine control system both use the same engine speed sensor on my '95 E300D? There is one speed sensor that plugs into the driver's side of the bell housing on this 606 engine. It there another one someplace? The 124 diesel tach and the engine control system AND the AC control system all use the same engine speed sensor on the bell housing to monitor engine speed. The signal goes thru the over voltage relay and if it fails, none of the above systems receives engine speed information. The connection from the speed sensor leads into the wiring harness can corrode and I've had to clean and/or replace them on several cars powered by OM60x engines. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted
Peter T. Arnold wrote: I love the term Factory Rebuilt. Think they send them back to the Fatherland where Elves rebuild them? I met a fellow several years ago who was convinced that his new fender had Factory Paint on it! Yes, he thought that the new fender had been made and painted in the factory! In East Hartford, CT there was a dealer who rebuilt flathead fords in the 50's. They were advertised, stamped and invoiced as Factory Rebuilt. Because Ford wanted the royalty! Where are people like that when I have something to sell? Mercedes has a number of factory rebuilt assemblies. They ARE remanufactured a plants in Europe. They carry a 1-4 year warranty (specific to each part). They used to be a good value. Since the dollar has fallen (compared to the Euro) they are no longer a good value. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Trans Fluid
Dan Weeks wrote: The single biggest factor in premature trans failure, besides overt abuse, is heat. WHen I used to tow, I installed a trans temp gauge in my tow cars. Ran fairly flimsey automatics (700R4) hundreds of thousands of miles without failures. Just made sure the trans was running cool. I'd like to plumb one into my 300SD sometime, just for kicks. Your 300SD (if it's a 126) should already have a transmission fluid cooler! Not sure about a 116 SD. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Gas W140? Was - rod bender
LarryT wrote: Since the diesel W140s all have that pesky rod bending problem and the lust for a W140 is as strong as ever, what;s the longevity of the gas W140s - like the S320 perhaps? Seems like a lot around. The engine in the S320 was the same engine in the E320. Nice engine, but the head gasket tended to need replacing at ~ 90kmi. Absolutely nothing common about the diesel and gas engines. The 140 is a money pit. Lots of wonderful features and it drives like a dream, BUT it's expensive to maintain. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 190D fuel primer pump
Wonko the Sane wrote: Brother-in-law let his 190D run out of fuel. He can't find the hand primer pump. Where is it? '84 190D. No hand primer. Fill the large fuel filter with clean diesel, Diesel Purge or even ATF and crank the engine. May take a minute or two but it will start. Next time don't let it go dry! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration
billr wrote: I've not been able to follow all the threads on this due to limited time and computer problems - Is Techron concentrate safe and effective for a diesel? Much easier than doing the stuff requited for Diesel Purge. Thanks - BillR Jacksonville FL 1981 300SD 295k miles Chevron Techron Concentrate for gasoline engines works very effectively in INDIRECT INJECTION engines as used in 20th century Mercedes diesels sold in the US. Techron Concentrate should NOT be used in direct injection engines. It is at least as effective as Diesel Purge (in my opinion) and is much easier to use (diesel Techron is designed for direct injection diesel engines and MAY work well in indirect injection engines - I've never tried it). The fact that it takes hours of operation (a bottle of Techron Concentrate dissolved in a tankful of fuel run through the injection system) to do it's job rather than the 20-30 minutes that it takes to run concentrated Diesel Purge thru the injection pump has led some people to infer that Diesel Purge is more effective. Diesel Purge has a very high Cetane index and that substantially quiets the engine while the DP is present which suggests that the cleaning effect is very quick. In truth the quieting while the DP is running thru the engine is largely unrelated to the cleansing effect, but results from the higher Cetane index. This is quickly proven when the engine is reconnected to the diesel supply and much of the noise slowly returns as the Cetane index drops. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Engine Vibration - new twist
Craig McCluskey wrote: On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 16:16:56 -0400 Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On some cars (201s for sure) the only way the vibration damper is available is along with front half of the driveshaft. At least one member of this forum has replaced the front driveshaft to replace the damper. There are several driveshaft specialist that claim they can balance the shaft with or without the damper. Others argue that that is not always possible. When I was doing my 240D to manual transmission 300D conversion, the 123.130 driveshaft I acquired in Austin had a vibration damper on the front flex joint mounting flange. I was severly deteriorated. I sent the driveshaft to Driveline Service of Atlanta to be refurbished. The balanced it without the damper because the part was not available and because mine was in so bad shape. That does not seem to work with some driveshafts. Mercedes incorporated the damper to meet their tolerances for noise and vibration. If it could be routinely replaced effectively in a simpler/cheaper way in the field, they would have done it that way (they sell dampers for automatics - just not manual transmission driveshafts). Mercedes also will not allow the transmission U joint to be replaced in the field - you must replace the driveshaft. That's because few shops have either the machinery or technical skill to meet the Mercedes specifications. Driveline Service of Atlanta or the driveline shop in the northwest (can't find the name right now - they also advertise in the Star) both claim they can rebalance a shaft without the damper, or after replacing the U joint but I've heard from a few of their customers that were dissatisfied (and more than that, that were pleased). I have not used either service. I have replaced several driveshafts. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] M! for gassers
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello, It's time for an oil change in the '01 E320 wagon. Anyone have thoughts on which grade of M1 is the best for this vehicle. I've read more than my share of diesel oil threads but few on whats best for our gassers. I do recall Dave M. saying he thought the 5W-40 Turbo Diesel was right for gassers as well. Thoughts? Ralph Wasserbaech The following oils are suitable for your engine: Mobil 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40; Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 (may only be available from Mercedes dealers and a few independents - NOT Wal-Mart); Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40. There may be others, but I trust those oils! Here's a complete list of ALL Mercedes approved oils: http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html These meet the minimum Mercedes specs, but they are NOT all equivalent. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Green Power Steering Fluid??
Zoltan Finks wrote: Cool. Thanks for the link to where I can get more of the stuff when needed. Interesting that is says it's compatible with original fluid, but is not to be mixed with transmission fluid. Brian The original fluid in at least thru early '87 WAS ATF. Only later did Mercedes change to a proprietary power steering fluid. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] high altitude driving problem - CONTINUED
Christopher McCann wrote: OK, I replaced the vacuum line from the back of the intake manifold to the switch over valve. The old line was not clogged at all (but I have a nice new one now) and the problem of slow acceleration persists at low altitudes. No way to test the high altitude issues as I am no longer in Colorado. Ånyway, it is as if nothing changed. Could the switchover valve be clogged/stuck/broken? The line from the switchover to the ALDA is not clogged. I hesitate to even suggest - could the ALDA be out of adjustment? The pressure line from the ALDA, thru the switchover valve, to the intake manifold MUST be open and free of obstruction. Blow (from the ALDA end toward the manifold - there should be no more resistance to air flow than would be expected from a large drinking straw. YES, the ALDA could be out of adjustment. Perhaps 80+% of the '83-'85 turbodiesels were set very lean at the factory to be sure that the cars met ALL the emissions requirements. Set that lean, many did NOT meet the Mercedes published acceleration figures. The ALDA should be set so that the car meets the 0-62 mph acceleration numbers published by Mercedes. I'd give you the actual number if you provide the year and model car you are discussing (and whether it is California certified). It's more than just desirable to provide that information IN EVERY post referring to that car. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] high altitude driving problem - CONTINUED
Marshall Booth wrote: The pressure line from the ALDA, thru the switchover valve, to the intake manifold MUST be open and free of obstruction. Blow (from the ALDA end toward the manifold - there should be no more resistance to air flow than would be expected from a large drinking straw. YES, the ALDA could be out of adjustment. Perhaps 80+% of the '83-'85 turbodiesels were set very lean at the factory to be sure that the cars met ALL the emissions requirements. Set that lean, many did NOT meet the Mercedes published acceleration figures. The ALDA should be set so that the car meets the 0-62 mph acceleration numbers published by Mercedes. I'd give you the actual number if you provide the year and model car you are discussing (and whether it is California certified). It's more than just desirable to provide that information IN EVERY post referring to that car. Marshall What IS the 0-62 mph acceleration time for this car? That can pin down the diagnosis. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration
George Larribeau wrote: My 300SD vibrates cold real bad, the vibration diminished when warmed up. It gets real noticeable below 1200 Rpm or so. At first I thought is was an abrupt new behavior but I now believe it has been doing it for a while. At first it was not real noticeable and some time last week it got a whole lot worse. It also seems to turn off harshly. It started about the time I changed the filters, the primer pump and gave the engine a 'good washing' to get the crud off to work on it. Last Saturday I adjusted the valves it was about due ... It starts OK and does not smoke (well not any unusual smoke). A while back when it needed glow plugs it started hard, idled real 'ruff' and would smoke. It runs good at 3K or so on the interstate. So does it have the same kind of motor mounts like in the OM603 Engine Vibration thread or do I need to look else where? Anything that results in unbalanced power from different cylinders will cause what you describe. I'd start with a dose of a superior injector cleaner (Diesel Purge delivered full strength or Chevron Techron concentrate - the same stuff for gasoline cars) will often cure the problem if it results from clogged or coked nozzles, but will have little effect if the cause is worn nozzles. If a dose of cleaner doesn't work then the injectors will need to be pulled, tested and recalibrated or rebuilt as required. This is beyond what most DIYers can do as an injector tester and the skill and knowledge to operate it is required. If the motor mounts have deteriorated (and they surely have if they are more that 10 years old) that will exacerbate even the slightest imbalance. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration
John Robbins wrote: George Larribeau wrote: Rusty lists injectors and injector nozzles separately. Is the injector complete with nozzle? Can these just be installed or do they need to be set up ?? The injectors listed on Rusty's site come complete with nozzle, etc. All you need to do is remove the old injectors, replace heatshields, and install new injectors. :) The nozzles are available separately for people who rebuild the injectors themselves. New or rebuilt Bosch injectors are warranted to be within 10 bar pressure of one another. They need to be matched to within 5 bar for the engine to run smoothly. So, whether you rebuild or replace your injectors, they need to be calibrated! Some shops are equipped to do this, but many are not. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Engine Vibration - new twist
Peter Merle wrote: Thanks for the sound advice - I did inspect mountings and they did appear to be sound . I took vehvicle to a retired Mercedes Benz Mechanic and he said that I should have the vibration damper on the propshaft ( which I don't have ) The twist comes in that the EPC does not list a vibration for my vehicle 124.130. Furthur the mechanic should me a Mercedes publication printed dec 1984 where is states that the 124.130 manual transmission definetly must have the damper ( the auto does not ) My vehicle is a manual and has been so since birth so I'm very puzzled. Can anyone confirm that the 124.130 ( manual tranny ) 300D has a vibration damper ( behind front flex disc ) on the drive shaft? The 124.130 with a manual transmission (the damper on automatics is quite different) was designed to have a vibration damper on the driveshaft, but some did not require one. The damper has NO effect on engine vibration but ONLY on vibration related to ground speed. I have a friend with a 124.003 with a 5 speed. When the damper collapsed (or more accurately tore apart) he had it replaced. On some cars (201s for sure) the only way the vibration damper is available is along with front half of the driveshaft. At least one member of this forum has replaced the front driveshaft to replace the damper. There are several driveshaft specialist that claim they can balance the shaft with or without the damper. Others argue that that is not always possible. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration
Rich Thomas wrote: So is that true, these are the same product? Diesel Purge I never see, Techron is in the auto parts store. --R Marshall Booth wrote: I'd start with a dose of a superior injector cleaner (Diesel Purge delivered full strength or Chevron Techron concentrate - the same stuff for gasoline cars) Diesel Purge is NOT the same as Chevron Techron concentrate nor are they administered the same way to achieve maximum effect. DP is run through full strength with the fuel tank/lines disconnected, while Techron concentrate is poured into the fuel tank and thew car driven. They both do an excellent job of cleaning dirty/coked injectors. BG 44k is also a fine cleaner that's poured into the tank, but it's expensive and must be purchased from a service shop. Most of the other cleaners that I've tried were a little to a lot less effective. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration
R A Bennell wrote: Doesn't Jim Cathey make shims from the sides of abandoned dishwashers, or some such?? Seriously, though, it is at least interesting to know how it is done. I have not looked around here to see who might do this sort of thing. What sort of pressure is required to test these things? One would think that hydraulic hoses and fittings might be sufficiently strong. Don't know how small one can get though. Pressures of several thousand psi are involved and the ability to measure the pressure with an accuracy of 25-35 psi or so. The shim material must be of the proper quality of steel or they can shatter (don't ask how I know that) and that can destroy the injector. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration
George Larribeau wrote: Diesel Purge delivered full strength What is the best technique for this? Fill secondary filter and start ?? The delivery scheme is detailed on the side of the Diesel Purge bottle and in the Performance Products catalog. I've attached a copy of the diagram to the post. I find it easier to simple pour a bottle of Techron Concentrate into the fuel tank and drive the car as you ordinarily do. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DieselPurgeVs.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 200785 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20070911/97701fb6/attachment.pdf ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mystery Noise Time - Embarrasingly Loud
Zoltan Finks wrote: That sounds like something I can live with - nudging the shroud possibly. I wonder if the intermittent nature of the sound is explained by the fan clutch action. But this doesn't explain why the sound would not happen at idle or at the lower RPMs. Wait, maybe the torqueing of the engine added to the mix explains things. I'll have to think about this. I'm good at sitting around thinking as opposed to wrenching. As engine speed changes, so does the position of the engine (that is balanced on three elastic mounts). If the front mounts have not been measured, you can't rule them out even if they have been recently replaced. The rear (transmission) mount is much more difficult to check. If it's original, I can almost guaranty it should be replaced. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mystery Noise Time - Embarrasingly Loud
Luther wrote: Take a flat blade screwdriver and pry the fan shroud clips up. Move the fan shroud to a new position where it's not rubbing. Tap the clips back into place. Problem solved. That solves NOTHING except the noise if the cause is the collapse of one or more engine mounts. When they get bad enough, a sudden stop can shove the engine right through the radiator (making a mess of the fan, fan clutch, belt tensioner and sometime even the timing cover as well as the radiator). Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] How to hold viscous couple W124
Peter Merle wrote: The Haynes book refers to special tool to hold viscous fan coupler on the OM603 's when loosening or fastening the coupler. How does this tool work? Can one make a home made tool? PEter You can wrap a strap wrench around the pulley or twist the serp belt so that it prevents the pulley from turning (but that may destroy the belt - especially if it's not quite new). Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Engine Vibration
Peter Merle wrote: My New W124 300D non turbo exhibits strong vibration from idle to 1600 rpm when engine is slightly loaded. Does not do this when out of gear and you rev vehicle . It is rpm related and not road speed related . It sounds a bit like an engine is labouring . Is this normal? ( BTW my OM617's don't do this ) What could cause this ? What I could come up with is possibly a loose front vibration damper? PEter The vibration you describe is NOT normal. Causes can be failed motor mounts, poor injector spray pattern, unbalanced injector function, and I'm sure other causes. Not something that can easily diagnosed without a LOT more information. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mystery Noise Time - Embarrasingly Loud
Zoltan Finks wrote: I've looked at the fan and the shroud. I don't see any evidence of scraping. I would think I would see markings. My other thoughts on this mystery noise are: Wheel bearings Our belt seems looser than it might should be. Wonder if that could be the noise? I have not owned a car with a serpentine before. Something related to our use of the parking brake (which we don't use all that often, but did yesterday) Wheel (or driveshaft or axle) bearings or the parking brake make noise correlated with car ground speed - NOT engine speed. Could be belt idler bearing or any device driven by the belt. Does the fan blade move more than 10 mm front to back? That's about the limit before service is required. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] people are on crack
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-190-Series-190D-84-Mercedes-Benz-190D-Diesel-Rare5Speed-50MPG-pos-WVO_W0QQitemZ170147549944QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6328QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem It's a 2 liter (not a 2.2 as the US versions were) and has the manual heating AC system. 50 mpg is a stretch, but I've gotten 44-45 with mine. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mystery Noise Time - Embarrasingly Loud
Zoltan Finks wrote: Okay, a noise started today, and it's so loud it's pretty much prohibitive in terms of driving. And of course, it indicates something wrong, so the car is all but out of commission until it's solved. This is the 87 190D. Description follows: In summary, sounds like a stick is stuck in the wheel - sort of that playing card-in-the-spokes sound but louder. I figured it to be vehicle speed related, but just as we pulled into our street and stopped, I noticed that the noise continued after the car stopped rolling. (noise was tapering off in speed and volume at this point). The speeds I have noticed it at are from about 15 to about 35. I think it may taper off at higher speeds. I have some vague guesses, but does this sound familiar to anyone? I quickly scanned for anything caught in the wheels, and I looked for anything caught in the fans. May be related to WAY OVERFILLING the transmission if transmission fluid overflow did in the rear engine (transmission) mount (but I doubt it). The noise is likely the fan rubbing against the fan shroud! Very common after motor mounts start to fail. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 2.5DT Idle and turbo issues
Ralph W wrote: Hello All, I've been following the recent 2.5 threads with some interest. My '90 2.5 has some been very sluggish lately. Limp mode is a bit overstated but I would say I'm not getting any help from the turbo. Mileage on the car is still around 29 MPG. I must also note that I believe I have a head gasket issue. Usual signs of oil in rad and anti-freeze usage. I have been somewhat successfully fighting this issue for the last 40,000 miles with Irontite. The car idles horrendously loud and shaky. Sounds like a big pickup truck. Engine sounds fine after about 900 rpm. I've done a diesel purge with no noticeable improvement. I'm sure mine has all the computer controlled stuff that the later year models have and was getting lost during the discussion on what all the vacuum valves at the air cleaner do. Is there is simple diagnostic check to see if the sensors which activate the turbo are working. The valve which activates the flap on the turbo (wastegate?) holds vacuum and activates the fla p.Any suggesti ons on any of these i There is NO sensor that activates the turbo. The turbo works all the time. The higher the engine rpm, the more boost. Boost alone achieves NOTHING. There must also be fuel enrichment. Most complaints of poor turbo function turn out to be poor/no fuel enrichment. The turbo has NO effect on idle. With your engine, there is a turbo wastegate that is opened if the emissions system fails or if the boost exceeds the limits. When were the fuel and filters changed? Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 2.5 DT
Frederick Moir wrote: Hi, Alles. Quick question. What (if any) are the differences between an 87 190DT 602,961 and a 91 300D 602.962 engines? Daydreaming idiot wants to know. TIA The earlier 602.961 engine puts out a few more hp and the EGR can be disabled without causing the engine to drop into limp home mode. The later engine has a more complex computer control and emissions system that is more difficult to repair. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Oil, oil everywhere, 87 300TD
Kevin Slater wrote: Had a bad happening with my 87 300TD. My wife came back from a mostly highway trip and she parked the car in the driveway. The car has had a persistent leak on the passenger / exhaust side of the engine. Not a tremendous amount, but a nuisance that put spots on the concrete drive. I went out to make sure something was under the car and I noticed oil on the passenger side fender above the light where it meets the hood. I looked underneath and there was a large spot (about 15 long and 6 wide) forming underneath. I quickly moved the car into the garage and popped the hood. Lots of oil over the engine in the area around and above the turbo and exhaust crossover pipe. I haven't crawled underneath. I'd love to get some ideas on what might have let loose to dump that much oil. Turbo oil line or return, chain tensioner, valve cover oil cap, blown head gasket leaking above the alternator. Is the belt tensioner roller parallel to the belt? If the tensioner arm starts to loosen a fair amount of oil can leak from the threaded fitting, but that oil usually end up being thrown by the belt in a line from side to side. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Air cells W124
Peter Merle wrote: How long do these normally last when vehicle is drived on normal hard surface . I have recently purchased the W124 with slef leverling rear suspension and it appears the air cell's have failed - rear suspesion very hard and jittery. According to previous owners maintainance records this was last done only some 6 km prior. If you use factory nitrogen cells, life tends to be upwards of 10+ years or 150kmi. With aftermarket cells, I've had them fail in 1-3 years. The factory rubber parts are FAR superior. Same with motor mounts! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Om603 Vacuum pump failure indicators
Peter Merle wrote: Is there any way to tell if an OM603 vacuum pump is about to fail , eg oil in vacuum lines etc/ noisy ? Peter There is NO reliable test other than to tear it down and measure clearances. In my experience, the early ones lasted 100-150kmi and the newer ones are good for 150-250kmi. If it's leaking CHANGE IT, an if the vacuum doesn't meet spec CHANGE IT. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Om603 Vacuum pump failure indicators
Tom Hargrave wrote: The dangerous failure mode is when the internal drive roller mechanism fails and it takes the front surface of the IP timing mechanism with it. The Manufacturer designed an updated vacuum pump that solves the problem. I replaced mine at 250,000 miles and the original looked like new. But this is when you want to replace one, once the damage starts it's too late. Bearings into the timing chain are a far more catastrophic and frequent occurrence than destruction of the timer. Dropping parts into the sump that can ultimately be picked up by the oil pump occurs more often than damaged timers. A failed vacuum pump on a 60x engine is to be avoided even if it means replacing perfectly good pumps from time to time. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 introduction - observations
Peter Merle wrote: Thanks for your advice. Got the car and have these observations 1. Engine grumbles/protests below 1600 rpm ( under load greater than approx 30% ) 2. Steering does not centre correctly especially when cold. It tries to centre but does not g o all the way - could this be a steering box overhaul?? Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 introduction I dont really know much about the non-turbo 603 since we do not get them in the US. I do know on the turbo 603 the only real problem area to watch out for is cracking heads. Not sure if the non-turbo has that problem or not. Peter Merle wrote: I have just purchased a W124 non turbo 300D ( OM603 ) and am keenly awaiting deliverly later today. Having grown up with OM617's ( and OM621 ) this is a major cultural adjustment for me . What are the important issues with these engines eg vacuunm pumps , timing chains , injector nozzles - ie how long do thaey last /when should they be changed. Is there a way of measuring chain stretch as in in Om617? Are there any online resources for the maintaince of these cars? Chain stretch is measured exactly the same as it is measure in OM61x engines. Chains in OM60x engines wear more slowly - maybe 1 deg every 100kmi using conventional oil changed at recommended intervals (Mobil 1 halves chain wear). Max allowable stretch is 4 deg. Head in the non-turbo 603s are NOT subject to,the same head cracking issues that the turbos experience. The head gasket MAY leak up front above the chain tensioner (5 of the seven 60x engines I've owned leaked here - some a little - some a lot - only cure is a new head gasket) or blow out between the #1 cylinder and the chain vault (makes MUCH smoke and drinks oil when this happens), but this only happens to a few percent of engines. The engine itself is VERY durable and long lived if properly maintained. The lifters will clatter starting at about 100kmi unless you use a synthetic oil. Changing to a synthetic will usually quiet clatter but it may take 10-20kmi. Changing lifters will usually NOT keep the lifters quiet if you continue to use conventional oil! I've seen them get noisy within a few weeks! Injectors and glow plugs last about as long as they did in OM61x engines (150-250kmi). Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Wiper arm won't go back down 190D
Zoltan Finks wrote: Okay, since the holiday weekend seems to have left the list with a skeleton crue, and since my wife needs to drive a car to her first day at the new practice tomorrow morning, I went ahead and forced the wiper arm back down to the windshield. I figure either this is normal operation of the wiper arm, or that this is a disappointing engineering slip-up. The arm gave some sharp snapping sounds as I pushed it down, then was released back into position. Pretty much what you described, Mitch. That what all of mine - new style and old - do/did! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] cracked head any thoughts?
Sure would be nice if you mentioned the year and model car you were discussing!! Marshall William Tisdal wrote: Thanks Harry and others responding. I have determined as of yesterday that exhaust gases are in the reservoir. I am driving the car approximately 3,000 miles per month and top off of antifreeze is usually every 45 days sometimes longer. I removed the antifreeze tank yesterday and discovered a slight ammount of oil. I guess I now have my diagnosis. The question is what I should do at present, short of head shopping. The pressure in the antifreeze tank is now buliding up where I can hear it from inside the car. The car runs beautifully, with no hesitations or hard starts. It fires up immediately. I have temporarily put all water in the cooling system and almost no white smoke is present. It appears that as the car cools down a bit, right after driving and restarting, a small ammount of white smoke is present. This must be a small ammount of water going into the cylinder, however no presence of water in the oil, but a drop or 2 of oil in the coolant reservoir. I know,now, that I will be head shopping eventually. Does anyone have any recommendations of how to decrease some of this pressure temporarily, and if so would it keep the water from going in when the car cools down without so much back pressure. Also, does anyone have any recommendations or help to locate the appropriate head for this car? I am considering experimenting with Evans waterless coolant to see if I can temporarily decrease this pressure from exhaust gases. I have heard so many nightmares of new heads doing the same thing. -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] What's that squicky sound?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 1979 240D, automatic. Good rain came and windows were open, lot of water came in. Alot on dash board area. Now when I glow plug and start car get a buzzer sound which stays on when the car is running and seams to be coming from the emergancy hazzard light area. When I activate the hazzard button press it in and the hazzards are operating buzzer stops completely. There was never a buzzer associated with this hazzard light before What is happing? Check fuses carefully. I've had a blown fuse cause the combination relay to buzz - might also be so for the earlier hazard light flasher. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] cracked head any thoughts?
Mitch Haley wrote: Marshall Booth wrote: Sure would be nice if you mentioned the year and model car you were discussing!! On Saturday, it was a '86 SDL. Then it will be necessary to pull the head to determine if it's the head or the head gasket. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Stupid stalling smoky TD's, yes we have them
Hendrik wrote: http://ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php?t=4240highlight= anyone with any thoughts, I am guessing ALDA but don't know enough about the set up. If you feel like it's cutting out, then its likely the overboost sensor closing the pressure line to the ALDA. I could also be the line from the intake manifold thru the switchover valve to the ALDA being plugged by the tarry soot/oil residue that accumulates in the intake manifold (but that usually doesn't cut in and out). Blow through the pressure plumbing from the ALDA end toward the intake manifold - there should be no more resistance than blowing through a large drinking straw. If there is pressure - clean out the line! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Ultra low sulfur diesel. Trouble for old injector pumps?
Peter Merle wrote: It's the sulphur that's the lubricant , not pariffin PEter Sulfur is NOT a lubricant (where did you get that idea?). When sulfur is removed from the diesel fraction of crude by most usual methods it also remove the fractions that are the best lubricants. These CAN be replaced, but until forced to, most refiners didn't. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] What happened to the VW rabit diesels from the 1980's
Tom Hargrave wrote: Also, a little piece of trivia - the engines, at least the ones that were sold here, were manufactured under contract in the USA. Both diesel and gas Rabbits and Golfs were built here in Western PA (just east of New Stanton) from the late '70s thru mid '80s and I had many friends that worked at the VW plant (now a Sony plant). The cars were assemble there with many US parts, BUT the diesel engines all came preassembled from Germany!! Fit and finish of the US built cars was substantially inferior to the German built. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Ultra low sulfur diesel. Trouble for old injector pumps?
archer wrote:
Sulfur is NOT a lubricant (where did you get that idea?). When sulfur is
removed from the diesel fraction of crude by most usual methods it also
remove the fractions that are the best lubricants. These CAN be
replaced, but until forced to, most refiners didn't.
Marshall
--
Does that mean that that the current low sulphur fuel does not have to have
lubricant added if used in a VW diesel with rotary pump?
Gerry
The people that make their living selling additives will tell you
otherwise, but additives should not need to be added to fuel if the pump
is properly designed.
The lubricity standards for ULSD are sufficient for all diesel engines
recently or currently sold in the US (and MOST that were here before).
Now if your 20+ year old VW or Volvo diesel pumps are on their last
legs, they are likely to fail sometime shortly after you change them
over to ULSD. Had you NOT change them over, they might have lasted
longer - or they might not! The old pumps were designed for the
lubricity blended into 0.5 sulfur fuel and some even tolerated 0.05%.
USLD has better lubricity than 0.5.
All of the Bosch/Mercedes pumps were inline pumps, lubricated by engine
oil and could run on kerosene, standard #2 and everything in between.
They were not essentially different than the pumps that served the early
('60s thru 'early '70s) Mercedes injected gasoline engines.
http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/fuels/diesel/ulsd.shtml#A2
http://fleetowner.com/mag/fleet_abcs_ulsd/
http://www.clean-diesel.org/faqs.html
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
___
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Re: [MBZ] Fuses
Hans Neureiter wrote: I needed to replace al my fuses. I could only find fuse kits containing a fraction of what is needed. I would have had to get 4 kits @ $ 6.00 a piece. I stumbled across jbug.com , a VW supply house. They have packages of 10 each 8A, 16A and 30A for $ 1.50 a package. What is more intriguing is that the metal fuse elements are copper. This should extend the service life of the fuses considerably since electrolytic corrosion of the lesser metal (aluminum) will be eliminated. The fuses (no matter what the element is made of) are reliable for about 10 years. NO MORE! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy
Alex Chamberlain wrote: Gentlemen, Just refilled the tank on the '87 300D for the first time since adjusting the ALDA. I was disappointed to observe a MAJOR decline in fuel economy---from about 25 mpg to about 19 (50-50 mix of city and highway driving on both tanks). If anything I've been seeing less visible exhaust smoke since tweaking the ALDA, so I'd be really surprised if I was losing unburned fuel that way. What happened? Did I maybe knock a fuel line loose while manhandling the ALDA in and out under the manifold? Did I break it? I only turned the screw on top one full turn counterclockwise, and I know it wasn't adjusted before since the safety cap was still on. One good thing is that I've figured out that, once the cap is off, the adjusting screw and locknut are just barely accessible without taking the ALDA out (or the intake manifold off). Between the #3 and #4 intake runners you can just barely wiggle in a 10mm GearWrench from one side and an improvised low-clearance screwdriver (i.e. nail file or butter knife) from the other. So repeated adjustments to find the right setting shouldn't be too hard, if it sounds like I just overdid it. Anybody have any thoughts? If you're putting more fuel into the engine and not getting more power out then there WILL be smoke. If no smoke then the fuel is going somewhere other than the engine (or you are doing a lot more work - like if the tire pressure are 10 lb low or brakes are dragging). The ALDA didn't do it. All it does is raise fuel as boost increases. No boost, no ALDA action. If there's too much fuel, then there will be smoke! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy
Alex Chamberlain wrote: On 8/23/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If you're putting more fuel into the engine and not getting more power out then there WILL be smoke. If no smoke then the fuel is going somewhere other than the engine (or you are doing a lot more work - like if the tire pressure are 10 lb low or brakes are dragging). The ALDA didn't do it. All it does is raise fuel as boost increases. No boost, no ALDA action. If there's too much fuel, then there will be smoke! Thanks Marshall. There is definitely more power since adjusting the ALDA. The car used to be dog-slow off the line, and now responds to the accelerator much more like a gas car. However, interestingly, I can still feel it when the turbo spools up---I thought with the ALDA adjusted properly, there was supposed to be no more turbo lag? So what else might cause a sudden decrease in fuel economy with no corresponding loss of power? Sounds like a fuel leak is about the only possibility, since a blockage (e.g. fuel filter) would cause loss of power, and an overrich condition would cause more smoke. Right? Over rich ALDA causes smoke. There is NO such thing as turbo lag in a Mercedes diesel. The turbo provides some boost much above idle. What most people refer to as turbo lag is the improper adjustment of the ALDA that provides insufficient fuel until the engine reaches 2200-2500 rpm. The way to optimize the ALDA for power is to increase until there is more than a tad of smoke at full load with the engine running at 4000+ rpm (like pedal to the floor in drive when you have hit about 65-70+ mph) and the turn the ALDA back until only slight wisps of smoke are barely visible in the rear view mirror (under the same conditions) on a bright sunny day. What happens at night in trailing headlights measures NOTHING so don't worry about that! Most serious (more than 3-4 mpg) increases in fuel use results from leaks! Could be any of the soft fuel lines or the return lines that connect the injectors. A fuel filter that is clogged will (paradoxically) result in increased fuel consumption as well. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy
Alex Chamberlain wrote: On 8/23/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On my SDL I seem to be getting about 22 or so, I would think i should get more than that. I have what I think is too much black smoke and that is after new injectors. I dont think the alda has ever been adjusted on mine. NEW new injectors or rebuilt oldies? Don't the new ones have a bad rep (no longer made in Germany)? New and used rebuilt injectors use the same NEW nozzles. The nozzles are made where ever Bosch chooses. I have had NO trouble with rebuilt injectors (I've NEVER bought a new one in 40+ years) providing you use a certified rebuilder. It ain't rocket science! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Self-leveler on a W123 sedan?
LWB250 wrote: Self-leveling suspension was available as an option on 123 chassis models (and possibly others) but it was the same system as the wagons with an engine driven pump, nitrogen spheres and the rest. Dan NEVER available as a US 123 option. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy
Curt Raymond wrote: I was under he impression new ones were not matched by default... Could mismatched injectors lead to lowered economy or would better matched injectors give better economy? Bosch rebuilds and new injectors are matched to within 10 bar. To match them closer requires that YOU or your shop test them! All of the injectors in an engine should be matched within 5 bar (if matched within 2-3 bar engine idle will be smoother - if the rest of the engine is in good shape). A 10 bar range will not have much effect on fuel economy, but the engine idle will be rough. If the injectors dribble or the spray pattern is well out of specifications economy will drop. An injector in a well maintained engine should last 150-250kmi! If the injection timing is more than a few degrees out of spec, economy and power will start to diminish. If the timer mechanism is damaged, economy drops. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy
John Robbins wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote: OK, so why do I have too much black smoke? Is my timing off? Is my EGR messed up? I unhooked the EGR and plugged the vac line but still the same Isn't it possible for the valve to get stuck open? If a valve sticks open the piston hits it and often breaks the cam shaft. That can ruin your day. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy
Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote: OK, so why do I have too much black smoke? Is my timing off? Is my EGR messed up? I unhooked the EGR and plugged the vac line but still the same To assure it's NOT the EGR you must block it off with a plate. What you are doing does NOTHING if the EGR is broken and hanging open. Small changes in timing (several degrees) don't seriously increase smoke but if the chain has stretched more than 4 degrees smoke can result and power will be down (but measuring chain stretch is a breeze). If the ALDA has broken, you will have excessive smoke (and you can't adjust it). You will have smoke if injector(s) dribble, have rotten spray pattern or are way out of the proper pop pressures. A cracked head or head gasket CAN do it too. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Post Falls SL musings
Jim Cathey wrote: Tow dolly? Right out. Our main trouble is that we often end up in some places where towing a trailer(-ette) is impractical/impossible. Especially since my wife won't do it. With a pure toad, once you pull the pin you have two independent drivable vehicles, and no pesky trailer to get in the way. I like the toad idea, I'm just not sure a 107 can be turned into one. Anybody know enough about these AT's to know if external lubrication is what it would take to survive? Or is it something else that kills them when you tow too far? -- Jim All you need to keep the engine running to drive the front pump. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL 190D 5speed in AZ
Robert Rentfro wrote: What do you reckon is wrong with this? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/400626863.html B\Almost surely a blown head gasket between the #1 piston and the chain vault Rather common with early OM60x engines. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Can backing up a hill cause oil drinkage
Zoltan Finks wrote: Had a thought this evening as I backed out my driveway in the 240D. It's a fairly steep but short driveway. I notice that there is an unpleasant amount of smoke when I do this. I thought maybe it's just that I notice it since I'm backing into the exhaust. But tonight I smelled burning oil. Was wondering if somehow the angle of the car coupled with the inertia of moving backward could cause the engine to burn some oil? I don't know how this would specifically work, it's just a bit of general detective work. You need valve seals or guides AND seals. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Alignment Time
Hendrik wrote: My local authorized semi independent MB workshop informed me a while back that they don't do wheel alignments any more. However I found a place that knows how to do Benzes and it only cost me 35 Aussie beans. Car drives straight, steering wheel is straight but I haven't done enough k's to determine whether wear is equal. If you don't have problems DO NOT get the car aligned just to be sure. Good chance you'll make things worse!! Over 200kmi my cars usually have needed ONE alignment on average (but some have required NO alignments and others have needed two or three - usually because at least one was improperly done).. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Alignment Time and steering box adjustment
Hendrik wrote: Don't worry Marshall, she was way out of whack. I have been progressively fixing things on the front end for a while and finally got around to replacing the rubber bearings top and bottom. The alignment mechanic gave me a written report on before and after the job and it most definitely needed doing. Also the tires where wearing badly, which is an indication that things are not right. Now the front end is pretty right except for an adjustment to the steering box but I think I'll leave that to an expert, right? I have read the factory manual and it states to use a torque bar on the steering wheel to get it right, someone with experience could probably do it by feel but I am not that experienced. You can tackle the steering box without doing damage if you are careful! Loosen the lock nut with the adjusting nut held in place. If the box is loose, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise (I know that ccw is counter intuitive, but that reduces play) maybe 1/4 turn. Note EXACTLY how far you turned it so you can return it to exactly where it was before you started if things don't improve or get worse. Keep adjusting 1/4 turn at a time. Then check the wheel play. If you feel a notch in the center when turning the wheel or the wheel is slow to straighten after making a turn, the box is much too tight. If the box is too tight wear will skyrocket. You must NOT try to reduce the play (measured at the steering wheel) in a used box to less than 10-12 mm. Maximum allowable play is 25 mm. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Can backing up a hill cause oil drinkage
Luther wrote: How much oil useage can worn valve guides cause? As much oil as you've got when it gets bad enough! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] A/C Question
dave walton wrote: Where is the expansion valve located? -Dave Walton Depends on which car. The expansion valve on the 124 is between the firewall behind and inboard of the brake booster. On the 126 I expect it's still behind and above the brake pedal (and an absolute BEAST to work on). Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL 190D 5speed in AZ
Robert Rentfro wrote: Given the price vs. the cost of repair (head gasket)...and what it is, do you think it's a decent seal, Herr Doktor? Bob R Could be - if the AC works. Could easily cost over $1000. Figure well over $500 for someone knowledgeable to the the head gasket. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!!!!!
E M wrote: Thanks Peter, This wheel was by no way torqued correctly!! I had to put a 3 foot piece of pipe on the wrench to get the bolts out!! Wonder the rotors didnt look like salad bowls, but them seem ok. I always do the back of the rotor where it meets the hug too. Ed 300E On 19/08/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A very light coating of ant-iseize will work. I also put a very thin layer of anti-seize on the face of the hub when installing a new rotor, too. However, I've never seen a stuck alloy wheel with correctly torqued lug bolts. either. Peter The surface that must NOT be lubricated is the wheel's lug seat and the surface of the lug bolt that mates with it. I routinely (for about 25 years) used paraffin wax wiped onto the lug threads and that has NEVER allowed the the lugs to seize even when a gorilla over tightens them. Never had one spontaneously come loose either when properly torqued. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
Robert Bigham wrote: I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub. Wow. Happens routinely in the rust belt! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.
Marshall Field wrote: I am going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's. The Kalifornia version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts. What I am looking for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service life out of the air filters. Yes, all the usual stuff has been looked at and brought up to spec. The seals, the hoses and pipes, everything. All are tight. Silica on the oil analysis is in the cellar so I know the system is tight. And I particularly dislike any air filter with the K and N name on it., I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on roads and freeways. Problem is that I can get hardly 2500 miles out of a air filter. Usually less, much less miles. My criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight. If I can not see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is plugged and needs replacing. I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator filters that had a washable sock over the main paper air filter. But I have never seen such a set up for a MB. I am sure that something can be rigged, but that would entail a smaller diameter, non standard air filter for the housing Your criteria is WAY too conservative. When the warm engine star5s to smoke at idle or the top speed and acceleration time start to drop (or 30kmi has passed) it's time to change the filter! Only use Mercedes approved filters! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.
E M wrote: I'm kind of curious now. How do the California filters differ from those in the rest of the US or North America? The air filter for California certified '85 diesels is a different shape than all other OM617.95 engines (so it will fit with room for the trap oxidizer and the plumbing that replaced it) and because there are relatively few California certified cars, the filters are expensive. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.
Marshall Booth wrote: Your criteria is WAY too conservative. When the warm engine star5s to smoke at idle or the top speed and acceleration time start to drop (or 30kmi has passed) it's time to change the filter! Only use Mercedes approved filters! Marshall Under extremely harsh conditions (like exclusive city driving, extreme cold and extremely wet conditions) the change interval drops to 15kmi. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Alignment Time
Robert Rentfro wrote: Went for my free rotate and balance (which really is now just a free rotate since we don't balance them each time 'cause they often don't need it.and my question was, how do you know unless you put it on the machine? I got the deer in the headlights look). Anywho.the inside of the front tires are wearing more quickly. Will an alignment take care of this? And will any regular shop do a good job of aligning my car..which will, undoubtedly, be older than the kid that would work on it? Or should I look to an MB garage? All of the rubber parts under the front end still look reasonably good, btw. Symmetrical wear on either the inside or outside edge of the front tires is usually caused by excessive toe-out or toe-in respectively, BUT it is commonly caused by worn tierod couplings or ball joints allowing the even a car statically aligned to specifications to go out of alignment as soon as it starts moving. The person doing the alignment MUST be experienced doing Mercedes (mustn't be a teenager following the directions for a Hunter machine or the like) and know WHY each step is required. The use of a tension bar is mandatory except when all front end components meet new specs! The use of a centering bolt is needed to assure that the turn signals will continue to cancel as designed! When in doubt a dealer can do a proper job (but may be more expensive than a knowledgeable independent). The car can't be properly aligned if wear is outside rather narrow limits so some dealers and independents will refuse to perform the alignment beyond the first few steps if the wear is excessive unless you opt for need work (most chain operations like Sears, Firestone, etc won't tell you that and will align the car, but the alignment will NOT result in much or even any improvement). Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Mobil 1
Wonko the Sane wrote: I was trying to start a new oil thread so we could talk about something other than guns and penis size. AMEN! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Anti seize on glow plugs (was) aluminum wheels
andrew strasfogel wrote: Is the same true about glow plugs? I wanted to install new ones this weekend (1983 300TD) but they were in so tight I was afraid of doing serious damage in case they were frozen in place. Is it possible these are the original GPs? I haven't changed them since purchaseing the vehicle in 1989! I also discovered a split CV boot. What's the best way to deal with that? You can use anti-seize on glow plugs (not any lubricant though). Try removing the glow plugs when the engine is hot!! Much easier (but don't burn yourself). Replace the half axle with the blown boot with a good used or NEW one. Don't consider a rebuilt one. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Now Emission Test Alignment Time
Alex Chamberlain wrote: I've been surprised at how little visible smoke my 300D puts out in daylight after tuning my ALDA. Running B99 doesn't hurt, either. Oregon doesn't have opacity tests---that seems like a pretty crude, archaic way to tell if a vehicle is running right. On gassers it's mainly going to catch bad rings, right? Which would be indicated by high HCs in the exhaust anyway. An properly applied opacity scale (there is one in the OM636-621 engine manual) can allow optimizing the of a mechanical injection system (such as 20th century Mercedes diesels) to withing a fraction of one percent that can be achieved with very carefully calibrated machinery. Not crude at all. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Mobil 1
Luther wrote: Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 19:45:24 -0500, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What weight of Mobil 1 should I use in my 240D? While Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbodiesel Truck, 5W-40 ESP Formula M, 5W-40 and 0W-40 are Mercedes approved, consumption may be a bit high in an OM61x engined car. I would recommend M-1 15W-50 even in winter in the northern US. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] [ SPAM ] Re: tick, tick, tick, very fast under the hood?
Harry Watkins wrote: Rob (welcome to the list) is trying to rob my thread (grin). My tick, tick is under the hood, not under the dash. It starts when the key is turned on and I guess it ticks all the time. What is the function of the unit just rear of the IP on a 603? Looking for help. Sounds like the cruise control actuator going CRAZY. I expect that is possible if the feedback loop becomes intermittent or opens. Try unplugging it. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 280E, AT, won't shift into third
Harry Watkins wrote: A guy looking to buy one of my SDLs has a 1977 and he says it won't shift to 3rd gear. Says the tach keeps climbing, but no shift. I told him someone on this list will have the answer. Change fluid and filter. If that doesn't improve things the transmission may only need adjustment OR it may be worn out! It is, after all, 30 years old! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Jacking vehicle up to change ATF filter
Zoltan Finks wrote: Okay, here's one of my famous basic questions: Since I only really have the ability to jack up one end of the vehicle, am I better off – in terms of maximum ATF drainage – jacking up the front, or the rear of the vehicle? I'm assuming the rear is the answer, but doesn't hurt to ask. Talking about the 87 190D. Since you have to remove the pan to change the filter (the filter really MUST be changed with the ATF change) it doesn't matter, but the drain plug is at the back and so I'd jack up the front of the car. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Oil gauge was Re: 83' 300D Greasecar for sale
Donald Snook wrote: Brian wrote: My oil gauges move up to around 1 bar after a couple seconds or so after startup, then stay there for around five seconds, then go ahead and move up to pegged. Really? Mine pegs out almost instantly and I don't use Mobil 1. I think it did the same thing in my 1990 300D 2.5. I thought all Mercedes would peg out (3+) when they are first started and then they will go down a little after running for a while and getting hot The oil pressure response time is a function of oil viscosity, engine wear, filter condition AND the condition of the O rings (part # 015-997-94-48) on the oil filter cap stem (the really do need to be changed every 20-30kmi). Once the harden the no longer serve their intended function. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Speedo accuracy
Allan Streib wrote: There's a school zone near where I work, and they have one of those automatic radar signs that display how fast you are driving. I noticed when I drive through there in my 300D that the displayed speed is 3 - 4 MPH lower than what my speedo says. Is this typical, and which speed is more likely to be correct? Allan There is NO assurance that the sign is accurate. They vary more than 10% in my experience. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Speedo accuracy
Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote: Wonder how far off the radar guns the cops use are. The radar guns used by large departments MUST be calibrated frequently. Even the finding of one gun seriously out of calibration or even lack of paper work to prove when it was last calibrated can result in ALL of the traffic convictions that depended on that gun being overturned. I'm not sure that small jurisdictions are as careful. Last time I checked, in Pennsylvania only the PA State Police are authorized to use radar. The legislature threatens to change that every few years, but they can never get a majority to approve it. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 86 300SDL
Alex Chamberlain wrote: On 8/16/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Howdy, Found a subject car - silver, 200K, all records, engine, tranny, AC all in very good condition. Needs detailing and a couple very small tears in the seats. Sheepskins on the front seats so couldn;t seee them very well - tires and wheels good except the wheels are chromed (Yuck) Asking ~$3900 but will deal. What's it worth - I know, Kaleb says $200. How about a more common selling price?Any majoy problems to watch out for? Yowza! I don't think I've ever seen a silver SDL. What color is the interior? Where is the car located? I might be interested if you pass on it. As far as things to look for--- good cooling system maintenance (mandatory) and head replacement (desirable) as with any 603 car. Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo Only California certified '86 SDLs had traps so head cracking was quite infrequent on US certified '86 SDLs. 90% of the head cracking was the result of heat stresses caused by the trap. Just removing the trap doesn't get you home free though. The head may crack when the trap is on but not actually fail for months or years after the trap is removed. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mann Oil Filters Coming Apart
Tom Hargrave wrote: You are filtering out dirt that can cause excess bearing wear but there are other causes for wear. Most of what wears from the engine passes right through the filter stays suspended in the oil, as it should. Tom www.kegkits.com Original Message From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 08/14/07 06:52 PM To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mann Oil Filters Coming Apart -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= If thats true then why have a filter? What are we filtering out? -Curt The filter doesn't remove small particulate (like soot). It remains suspended in the oil. It's because of this small stuff that the oil in your Mercedes needs to be changed every 5-10kmi. If you filtered the small stuff, the oil could last for 50-100kmi. But you'd be changing filters every 2.5kmi or so (the way a Mercedes is designed) and adding a qt of oil with each change. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] thoughts on diesel clatter
Luther wrote: Please explain why a rough running diesel can be diagnosed as weak injectors with different pop pressures. A diesel engine will NOT idle smoothly if the injector pop pressures exceed a 5 bar range. With the pressure matched even closer (2-3 bar) the engine will idle even more smoothly (providing everything else is working as it should). Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] thoughts on diesel clatter
John M McIntosh wrote: Well since my 500SEL is busy having a rebuilt transmission installed I was forced to cart four people across the rockies up the Coquihalla Highway 5 to 8% grade for nearly 3000 feet of altitude in the 92 wagon. For reference the OM603 will only do 75 mph flat out up the 8% grade, water temp rose from 85C to 100C. That and another 500 miles of mountain driving and 250 miles of flat land. After all this my wife noticed the clatter is *much* louder at idle, much more clatter/bearings bouncing/burbling kinda noise. I wondering if I knocked loose lots of carbon (mind our normal driving over the last 40K miles has been highway), and it's causing all this racket? Well that or blew a exhaust gasket (don't think so) or muffler joint. On the clatter, check the serpentine belt tensioner shock absorber. It can make a racket not unlike valve clatter when it fails. Push on the shock upper and lower bushing with the engine running and if the clatter is altered or subsides, you've found the problem. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] thoughts on diesel clatter
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: speaking of clatter etc. Some may remember I posted a while back I have a SDL that clatters louder than a 617 and has alot of black smoke. I figured it was injectors and so did others. Ordered new injectors from Rusty and installed them. Clatter seems to be down, smoke for the most part seems to be down but it still has black smoke more than I would like at times. Did/does this when under mild/heavy throttle. Now it doesnt seem to do it all the time but some times/alot of the time. What else could cause black smoke like this? Air filter is new. Timing? EGR? Adjust the ALDA clockwise until the smoke is barely visible at 4000+ rpm at full load, full pedal. Then measure 0-62 mph acceleration! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mann Oil Filters Coming Apart
Robert Rentfro wrote: During yesterday's oil change, I had the third consecutive Mann oil filter come out in two pieces; the paper section became separate from the metal section. What's the deal on that? Anyone else experience this? Does that failure allow a path for oil to flow where it's not filtered? I put a Hengst in this time to see what happens. Any chance that the filters got wet. Counterfeit filters are NOT unknown! Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Changing ATF and Filter 190D
Zoltan Finks wrote: Zoikes! I forgot that there was a drain plug on the pan. That's great! But yes, I am thinking I will change the filter now. Is it the same deal as on old American cars where you use some RTV, or the like, to make the stupid gasket lay down on the pan so you can raise it up there and begin to bolt it up? Or has the practice of shipping AT filters folded up ceased? Do NOT use anything on the gasket - especially not RTV! Don't forget that the torque value for the pan is only 7 Nm which is about 5 lb ft. Much more than that and you can cut the gasket. The drain plug torque (both) is 14 Nm (~10 lb-ft). Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 300D Transmission Service Question
LWB250 wrote:. 8.) Put the pan in place, and snug the bolts up all the way around. Tighten the bolts to spec, which is really, really, low, something like 14 in-lbs (yes, inch-pounds!) Not quite! The torque value for the pan bolts is 5.18 lb-ft (that's 62 lb-inch unless I've messed up my math). Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
