Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
I didn't think replacing the engine mounts on the 300TD (NA) was that bad. So I was encouraged to replace the mounts on the 300SD turbo. HA! Mucho harder. -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Bob Rentfro Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 10:49 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts I jacked the engine back up a tad, lined everything up with a drift pin and it lined up fine. What a huge difference they make. Wicked smooth now. I love how errthing on this 240 is so much easier to get to than on the 300D. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 2:24 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote: Find a tapered punch. Randy On 05/11/2012 3:22 PM, OK Don wrote: Lift the engine enough to take the weight off so you can align the holes with a drift pin, large Phillips screw driver, etc. Once they are aligned, let the engine down to hold it in place, remove pin, insert bolt. On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 2:15 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: I guess I should probably clarify that I oriented the mounts the same way the old ones came off and they're off by about a quarter of the diameter of a hole On Nov 5, 2012 1:14 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: Okay so that fits loosely. I understand. Now my issue is getting the holes to line up so I can get the 8 millimeter bolts back in from the bottom. How do I get those pigs to line up? I tried it with the engine down I tried it with the engine up I can't get them to line up. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 11:17 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: If you mean the one to the subframe, it is meant to be loose. It is essentially a safety catch. I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the metal draw up tightly against the rubber part? Bob R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz .com http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://m ail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz .com http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://m ail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://m ail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://m ail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the metal draw up tightly against the rubber part? Bob R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
If you mean the one to the subframe, it is meant to be loose. It is essentially a safety catch. I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the metal draw up tightly against the rubber part? Bob R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
Okay so that fits loosely. I understand. Now my issue is getting the holes to line up so I can get the 8 millimeter bolts back in from the bottom. How do I get those pigs to line up? I tried it with the engine down I tried it with the engine up I can't get them to line up. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 11:17 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: If you mean the one to the subframe, it is meant to be loose. It is essentially a safety catch. I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the metal draw up tightly against the rubber part? Bob R __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
I guess I should probably clarify that I oriented the mounts the same way the old ones came off and they're off by about a quarter of the diameter of a hole On Nov 5, 2012 1:14 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: Okay so that fits loosely. I understand. Now my issue is getting the holes to line up so I can get the 8 millimeter bolts back in from the bottom. How do I get those pigs to line up? I tried it with the engine down I tried it with the engine up I can't get them to line up. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 11:17 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: If you mean the one to the subframe, it is meant to be loose. It is essentially a safety catch. I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the metal draw up tightly against the rubber part? Bob R __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
Find a tapered punch. Randy On 05/11/2012 3:22 PM, OK Don wrote: Lift the engine enough to take the weight off so you can align the holes with a drift pin, large Phillips screw driver, etc. Once they are aligned, let the engine down to hold it in place, remove pin, insert bolt. On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 2:15 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: I guess I should probably clarify that I oriented the mounts the same way the old ones came off and they're off by about a quarter of the diameter of a hole On Nov 5, 2012 1:14 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: Okay so that fits loosely. I understand. Now my issue is getting the holes to line up so I can get the 8 millimeter bolts back in from the bottom. How do I get those pigs to line up? I tried it with the engine down I tried it with the engine up I can't get them to line up. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 11:17 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: If you mean the one to the subframe, it is meant to be loose. It is essentially a safety catch. I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the metal draw up tightly against the rubber part? Bob R __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
I jacked the engine back up a tad, lined everything up with a drift pin and it lined up fine. What a huge difference they make. Wicked smooth now. I love how errthing on this 240 is so much easier to get to than on the 300D. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 2:24 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote: Find a tapered punch. Randy On 05/11/2012 3:22 PM, OK Don wrote: Lift the engine enough to take the weight off so you can align the holes with a drift pin, large Phillips screw driver, etc. Once they are aligned, let the engine down to hold it in place, remove pin, insert bolt. On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 2:15 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: I guess I should probably clarify that I oriented the mounts the same way the old ones came off and they're off by about a quarter of the diameter of a hole On Nov 5, 2012 1:14 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: Okay so that fits loosely. I understand. Now my issue is getting the holes to line up so I can get the 8 millimeter bolts back in from the bottom. How do I get those pigs to line up? I tried it with the engine down I tried it with the engine up I can't get them to line up. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 11:17 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: If you mean the one to the subframe, it is meant to be loose. It is essentially a safety catch. I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the metal draw up tightly against the rubber part? Bob R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Mounts
That is a very satisfying job! -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300 '87 300TD Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: I jacked the engine back up a tad, lined everything up with a drift pin and it lined up fine. What a huge difference they make. Wicked smooth now. I love how errthing on this 240 is so much easier to get to than on the 300D. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 2:24 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote: Find a tapered punch. Randy On 05/11/2012 3:22 PM, OK Don wrote: Lift the engine enough to take the weight off so you can align the holes with a drift pin, large Phillips screw driver, etc. Once they are aligned, let the engine down to hold it in place, remove pin, insert bolt. On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 2:15 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: I guess I should probably clarify that I oriented the mounts the same way the old ones came off and they're off by about a quarter of the diameter of a hole On Nov 5, 2012 1:14 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote: Okay so that fits loosely. I understand. Now my issue is getting the holes to line up so I can get the 8 millimeter bolts back in from the bottom. How do I get those pigs to line up? I tried it with the engine down I tried it with the engine up I can't get them to line up. Bob R On Nov 5, 2012 11:17 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: If you mean the one to the subframe, it is meant to be loose. It is essentially a safety catch. I am replacing the engine mounts on my 240 D. The 1 between the oil pan and the crossmember I am putting it back together and there seems to be a lot of slop between the metal and rubber parts. Is that normal? Or should the metal draw up tightly against the rubber part? Bob R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 240D engine in india
This is interesting. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_OM616 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 240D engine and transmission available
From 1982 240D, has new-style glow plugs. Engine number 616.912-12-088993 Four-speed manual transmission from '72 220D Both have about 180 kmi on them. Mounted on pallet, ready to ship. Anyone interested? Craig --- Craig McCluskey Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 250 kmi 1994 E420 117 kmi Past: 1964 190Dc 1972 220D/8 1972 220/8 1987 190E/2.3 /\ \ / ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN Friends don't send friends X AGAINST HTML MAIL HTML email. / \ AND POSTINGS http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: dscn0002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 176656 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20081114/242cd32c/attachment.jpg ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D engine and transmission available
Well darn, I am, too bad I didnt pick it up while I was out there!! Craig McCluskey wrote: From 1982 240D, has new-style glow plugs. Engine number 616.912-12-088993 Four-speed manual transmission from '72 220D Both have about 180 kmi on them. Mounted on pallet, ready to ship. Anyone interested? Craig --- Craig McCluskey Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 250 kmi 1994 E420 117 kmi Past: 1964 190Dc 1972 220D/8 1972 220/8 1987 190E/2.3 /\ \ / ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN Friends don't send friends X AGAINST HTML MAIL HTML email. / \ AND POSTINGS http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: dscn0002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 176656 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20081114/242cd32c/attachment.jpg ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..
My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D was trailing some blue smoke and smelled like it was burning oil. When I got home last night I started it up and popped the hood. Engine is running a lot louder than it had been. It was night, so it's hard to be definitive but it did seem to be spewing a little more smoke than normal and it did smell of burning oil. The oil level (I checked it before I started after the car sat on the flat for 7 hours) was down a bit from where it was when I brought the level back up a few days back. We checked under the air filter and there wasn't much oil sitting there, so I don't think that's the culprit. I did notice pretty significant blow-by when I pulled the oil fill cap while the engine was running at fast idle. So I have more smoke, some oil smell in the exhaust, lower oil level on the dipstick, more noise - almost like a loud rap, and lots of cam oil pressure. Any thoughts? Could it be as simple as a valve nut that wasn't tightened up enough and now has moved? The sound I'm hearing seems to be coming from a single piston - that is, it's regular but I don't think it happens every time a piston fires. ...Kevin (who'll be checking valve clearances tonight) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..
#1 piston probably has a problem. Does it idle rough too? --- Kaleb C. Striplin Cox Auto Trader 730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor - Original Message - From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 1:43 PM Subject: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*.. My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D was trailing some blue smoke and smelled like it was burning oil. When I got home last night I started it up and popped the hood. Engine is running a lot louder than it had been. It was night, so it's hard to be definitive but it did seem to be spewing a little more smoke than normal and it did smell of burning oil. The oil level (I checked it before I started after the car sat on the flat for 7 hours) was down a bit from where it was when I brought the level back up a few days back. We checked under the air filter and there wasn't much oil sitting there, so I don't think that's the culprit. I did notice pretty significant blow-by when I pulled the oil fill cap while the engine was running at fast idle. So I have more smoke, some oil smell in the exhaust, lower oil level on the dipstick, more noise - almost like a loud rap, and lots of cam oil pressure. Any thoughts? Could it be as simple as a valve nut that wasn't tightened up enough and now has moved? The sound I'm hearing seems to be coming from a single piston - that is, it's regular but I don't think it happens every time a piston fires. ...Kevin (who'll be checking valve clearances tonight) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..
No. It idles about the same as it always has. It runs a little rough at startup, but that could be a number of things. Smooths out pretty quickly. ...Kevin On Thu, 10 Jan 2008, Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote: #1 piston probably has a problem. Does it idle rough too? --- Kaleb C. Striplin Cox Auto Trader 730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor - Original Message - From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 1:43 PM Subject: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*.. My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D was trailing some blue smoke and smelled like it was burning oil. When I got home last night I started it up and popped the hood. Engine is running a lot louder than it had been. It was night, so it's hard to be definitive but it did seem to be spewing a little more smoke than normal and it did smell of burning oil. The oil level (I checked it before I started after the car sat on the flat for 7 hours) was down a bit from where it was when I brought the level back up a few days back. We checked under the air filter and there wasn't much oil sitting there, so I don't think that's the culprit. I did notice pretty significant blow-by when I pulled the oil fill cap while the engine was running at fast idle. So I have more smoke, some oil smell in the exhaust, lower oil level on the dipstick, more noise - almost like a loud rap, and lots of cam oil pressure. Any thoughts? Could it be as simple as a valve nut that wasn't tightened up enough and now has moved? The sound I'm hearing seems to be coming from a single piston - that is, it's regular but I don't think it happens every time a piston fires. ...Kevin (who'll be checking valve clearances tonight) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..
Could be a needle stuck in its nozzle body bore. I've seen that so bad that I'm convinced that no amount of Purge could remedy it. Makes quite the racket but just requires nozzle replacement. -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
Assume engine drain plug has never been removed. Questions:, 1. Best way to access from above or below?; 2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it please? 3. Is there rachet extention set combo that will work? 4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you reinstall it. 5. If it has not been removed will it take a gorrilla from the Bronz Zoo to do it? Anything else you can share please. Want to flush the right way. Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D 104K miles
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
yep - gorilla, blowtorch to heat up the surrounding block, and some serious torque. Dunno about putty or access approach, but the size is a 14mm or 17mm Allen socket (same as differential). On 11/24/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Assume engine drain plug has never been removed. Questions:, 1. Best way to access from above or below?; 2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it please? 3. Is there rachet extention set combo that will work? 4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you reinstall it. 5. If it has not been removed will it take a gorrilla from the Bronz Zoo to do it? Anything else you can share please. Want to flush the right way. Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D 104K miles ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 12:26:20 -0500 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you reinstall it. It has an aluminum sealing ring. Don't loose it. Craig
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
I recommend replacing the aluminum sealing ring - I replaced all of them on the '78 117 engine. They were corroded inside and out, hard and brittle - almost as bad as the rubber parts. The only place I could find them was either the stealership, or Rusty. 4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you reinstall it. It has an aluminum sealing ring. Don't loose it. Craig -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
Assume engine drain plug has never been removed. And assuming you're talking about the things of which there are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block. In one of which the block heater goes, in other words. It's a freeze plug, not a drain, in that you can drain more out the front by removing the water pump housing. (More later.) The reason for that row of holes is for manufacturing of the block, not for draining out the coolant at random times. 1. Best way to access from above or below?; Above, I've found. After removing alternator, radiator, and manifolds. 2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it please? 19mm or 3/4. Microscopic difference between the two, well below manufacturing tolerance for that rather crude plug. 3. Is there rachet extention set combo that will work? Extensions are no good, we're talking a _lot_ of torque required. With an extension you get too much side torque, you can't keep the 'elbow' in place. You do _not_ want to ream out the hex on the plug! That's why you remove the manifolds and all that other crap. That lets you get the 3/4 drive socket set on there without extensions. Removing the radiator is so you can put a cheater bar on it. A few feet ought to do it. I used my Harbor Freight socket set, and a fencepost driver as a cheat. 4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you reinstall it. It's puttied when installed by the factory. That's why you need real heat (read: acetylene) to remove it. The application of which is why you need to drain the block first (out the front) to get the area above boiling heat. 5. If it has not been removed will it take a gorrilla from the Bronz Zoo to do it? Ook ook, my man. Anything else you can share please. Want to flush the right way. Don't bother if flushing is your game. Pull the water pump housing instead. You remove those plugs to replace one with a block heater. (And if you had one, it's easily unscrewed when compared to that wretched plug.) And for normal flushing you don't need to do this either, popping open a heater line is sufficient. Did I mention that this job is a major PITA? And that I've heard tell of a cracked block or two when the job goes wrong? You can dig my tale out of: http://cathey.dogear.com/frankenheap.html -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
Now that I think about it - I opened the drain plug on the side of the block on the 340D last year when I replaced the radiator. It's not one of the freeze plugs - it's a little lower I believe, and it wasn't all that hard to remove. I think it had a regular hex head, not an Allen head. On 11/24/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Assume engine drain plug has never been removed. And assuming you're talking about the things of which there are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block. In one of which the block heater goes, in other words. It's a freeze plug, not a drain, in that you can drain more out the front by removing the water pump housing. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 11:58:46 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Assume engine drain plug has never been removed. And assuming you're talking about the things of which there are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block. In one of which the block heater goes, in other words. It's a freeze plug, not a drain, in that you can drain more out the front by removing the water pump housing. (More later.) The reason for that row of holes is for manufacturing of the block, not for draining out the coolant at random times But if you are talking about the drain plug, so you can completely drain the cooling system, instead of installing the block heater, there is one hex-head bolt-like thing just in front of the starter. The other plugs have hex shaped recesses that require an allen wrench. Those are beastly hard to remove. The drain plug is much easier. Craig
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
Sory for the miss understanding folks, I have a block heater all ready. This is the drain plug forward of that and it is just forward of the alternator, In the manual and real life looks like a Hex head bolt/plug , not a bolt plug w allen type head (like the differential fill and drain plugs)?? When I flush next time looking to pull this drain plug. Thanks for the information any way it is always valuable. Regards Tom Scordato Bellefonte PA - Original Message - From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 2:58 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug Assume engine drain plug has never been removed. And assuming you're talking about the things of which there are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block. In one of which the block heater goes, in other words. It's a freeze plug, not a drain, in that you can drain more out the front by removing the water pump housing. (More later.) The reason for that row of holes is for manufacturing of the block, not for draining out the coolant at random times. 1. Best way to access from above or below?; Above, I've found. After removing alternator, radiator, and manifolds. 2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it please? 19mm or 3/4. Microscopic difference between the two, well below manufacturing tolerance for that rather crude plug. 3. Is there rachet extention set combo that will work? Extensions are no good, we're talking a _lot_ of torque required. With an extension you get too much side torque, you can't keep the 'elbow' in place. You do _not_ want to ream out the hex on the plug! That's why you remove the manifolds and all that other crap. That lets you get the 3/4 drive socket set on there without extensions. Removing the radiator is so you can put a cheater bar on it. A few feet ought to do it. I used my Harbor Freight socket set, and a fencepost driver as a cheat. 4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you reinstall it. It's puttied when installed by the factory. That's why you need real heat (read: acetylene) to remove it. The application of which is why you need to drain the block first (out the front) to get the area above boiling heat. 5. If it has not been removed will it take a gorrilla from the Bronz Zoo to do it? Ook ook, my man. Anything else you can share please. Want to flush the right way. Don't bother if flushing is your game. Pull the water pump housing instead. You remove those plugs to replace one with a block heater. (And if you had one, it's easily unscrewed when compared to that wretched plug.) And for normal flushing you don't need to do this either, popping open a heater line is sufficient. Did I mention that this job is a major PITA? And that I've heard tell of a cracked block or two when the job goes wrong? You can dig my tale out of: http://cathey.dogear.com/frankenheap.html -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Nov 24 21:21:49 2006 Received: from nf-out-0910.google.com ([64.233.182.188]) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GniUW-0002Yx-PL for Mercedes@okiebenz.com; Fri, 24 Nov 2006 21:21:48 + Received: by nf-out-0910.google.com with SMTP id i2so1291202nfe for Mercedes@okiebenz.com; Fri, 24 Nov 2006 13:19:17 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.82.139.17 with SMTP id m17mr1648456bud.1164403156678; Fri, 24 Nov 2006 13:19:16 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.82.125.5 with HTTP; Fri, 24 Nov 2006 13:19:16 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2006 15:19:16 -0600 From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com, SL Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: [MBZ] 450SLC hat rack, package shelf covering ??? X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2006 21:21
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
rumor has it that [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Assume engine drain plug has never been removed. Questions:, 1. Best way to access from above or below?; Above. It is right near the tail of the starter on OM616 engines 2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it please? It is a 19mm standard hex head plug 3. Is there rachet extention set combo that will work? On my OM616s, I can just reach in from under the air cleaner. No extensions necessary! 4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you reinstall it. I believe it has a sealing washer. I _think_ it's practically the same size as the one used for the oil pan - but I'm not sure about that... 5. If it has not been removed will it take a gorrilla from the Bronz Zoo to do it? I have removed many of them, and I don't recall any of them suprising me about how tight they were... Anything else you can share please. Want to flush the right way. Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D 104K miles -- Philip
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 15:52:51 -0500 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When I flush next time looking to pull this drain plug. Thanks for the information any way it is always valuable. On my _non-turbo_ 617, it's accessed from the front with a socket on a rachet (or was it initially with a breaker bar?). I can get just enough leverage to loosen it up and then there's just enough room to move the rachet one click at a time. I bought some new aluminum gaskets from Rusty to have some when I need to do it again (I actually had one on hand). Craig
Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug
At some time fairly close to Fri, 24 Nov 2006 13:06:47 -0500, rumor has it that Sunil wrote: yep - gorilla, blowtorch to heat up the surrounding block, and some serious torque. Dunno about putty or access approach, but the size is a 14mm or 17mm Allen socket (same as differential). And Jim wrote: 2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it please? 19mm or 3/4. Microscopic difference between the two, well below manufacturing tolerance for that rather crude plug. 3. Is there rachet extention set combo that will work? Extensions are no good, we're talking a _lot_ of torque required. With an extension you get too much side torque, you can't keep the 'elbow' in place. You do _not_ want to ream out the hex on the plug! I think you both are confusing the block heater plug with the drain plug! The block heater plug has a 19mm hex socket. I went to a machine shop and bought a 3 piece of 3/4 hex stock and used my 3/4 drive socket set and a 4ft pipe to get mine out. The drain plug is a little 19mm standard hex-head plug a couple inches below and a few inches forwand of the block heater plug. It is no big deal to remove. I did just check the seal size. It is _not_ the same as the oil pan. It is a bit bigger. --Philip
[MBZ] 240D Engine
I know this is a long shot but, I live in Maryland and am looking for an engine for my '83 240D. I have a nice rust free car with an engine with 0 compression in cylinder #1. I have checked valves etc. and bought a glow plug compression tester. It will run in 3 cylinders but there is a lot of blow by. Must have a hole in the piston or something equally bad. Thanks, John Ingram Baltimore
