subject:"\[MBZ\] Fixing floors"

Oh it's at least 2 feet off the ground for sure.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 29, 2017, at 6:54 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> The sill plate should be significantly (maybe 12+ inches) higher than the
> outside grade.  If so, I don't think wicking is an issue.
> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
>> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
>> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 11:33 AM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
>> 
>> So let me ask this. If water is standing in that low spot up against the
>> foundation can water "wick" upward along the inside of the stem wall to
> the
>> flooring area?
>> 
>> We also seem to have a water intrusion issue at the window of one of the
>> bedrooms on the front of the house because as I was under the house the
>> stem wall was wet under the area where that window is and the surrounding
>> areas were dry.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 29, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes
>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I would look at two things regarding the constructIon of the house as to
> the
>> moisture:
>>> 
>>> 1.) The gutter in the corner is not configured properly. There should be
> some
>> sort of "splash guard" on the outside edge of the gutter to prevent water
> from
>> washing over the side. What's happening is that rain is collecting in the
> roof
>> valley from either side of the roof. As it collects and flows down the
> valley, the
>> velocity and volume increases, which ends up overwhelming the gutter and
>> washing right over the side of it at that corner. The water then goes to
> the
>> ground in large amounts, even with a relatively small amount of rain.
>>> 
>>> 2.) The ground is not graded away from the foundation at the corner. It
> can't
>> just be landscaping crap like mulch, you've got to go in there with soil
> and fill
>> the area enough to have a grade moving away from the foundation.  Once
>> you've got good compacted soil properly graded you can cover it with
>> landscaping.
>>> 
>>> I think we're looking at multiple problems that have come together to
> cause
>> the damage over time. If you don't fix the gutter and grading, you're
> wasting
>> your time fixing the damaged boards.
>>> 
>>> And I would definitely replace everything with treated lumber. Sill
> plates
>> should be treated per code, I believe. The others would be for insurance.
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> 
>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-29 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes

The sill plate should be significantly (maybe 12+ inches) higher than the
outside grade.  If so, I don't think wicking is an issue.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 11:33 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
> 
> So let me ask this. If water is standing in that low spot up against the
> foundation can water "wick" upward along the inside of the stem wall to
the
> flooring area?
> 
> We also seem to have a water intrusion issue at the window of one of the
> bedrooms on the front of the house because as I was under the house the
> stem wall was wet under the area where that window is and the surrounding
> areas were dry.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jan 29, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I would look at two things regarding the constructIon of the house as to
the
> moisture:
> >
> > 1.) The gutter in the corner is not configured properly. There should be
some
> sort of "splash guard" on the outside edge of the gutter to prevent water
from
> washing over the side. What's happening is that rain is collecting in the
roof
> valley from either side of the roof. As it collects and flows down the
valley, the
> velocity and volume increases, which ends up overwhelming the gutter and
> washing right over the side of it at that corner. The water then goes to
the
> ground in large amounts, even with a relatively small amount of rain.
> >
> > 2.) The ground is not graded away from the foundation at the corner. It
can't
> just be landscaping crap like mulch, you've got to go in there with soil
and fill
> the area enough to have a grade moving away from the foundation.  Once
> you've got good compacted soil properly graded you can cover it with
> landscaping.
> >
> > I think we're looking at multiple problems that have come together to
cause
> the damage over time. If you don't fix the gutter and grading, you're
wasting
> your time fixing the damaged boards.
> >
> > And I would definitely replace everything with treated lumber. Sill
plates
> should be treated per code, I believe. The others would be for insurance.
> >
> > -D
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-29 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes

Certainly.  Look up “capillary action”.

But understand that water is probably puddling in that corner as well, despite 
it draining away after maybe a short time.

Intrusion around the window openings is certainly a possibility, too.


> On Jan 29, 2017, at 11:33 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> So let me ask this. If water is standing in that low spot up against the 
> foundation can water "wick" upward along the inside of the stem wall to the 
> flooring area? 
> 
> We also seem to have a water intrusion issue at the window of one of the 
> bedrooms on the front of the house because as I was under the house the stem 
> wall was wet under the area where that window is and the surrounding areas 
> were dry. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

One other thing also.  From doing some research online I will be back 
over there today and I am going to make sure the brick actually has weep 
holes like it should, which is supposed to drain any water out from 
behind the bring that may get in rather than it finding its way out to 
other spots. I do not really think this is my problem but something I 
want to check none the less.



On 1/29/2017 10:33 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

So let me ask this. If water is standing in that low spot up against the foundation can 
water "wick" upward along the inside of the stem wall to the flooring area?

We also seem to have a water intrusion issue at the window of one of the 
bedrooms on the front of the house because as I was under the house the stem 
wall was wet under the area where that window is and the surrounding areas were 
dry.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 29, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes  wrote:

I would look at two things regarding the constructIon of the house as to the 
moisture:

1.) The gutter in the corner is not configured properly. There should be some sort of 
"splash guard" on the outside edge of the gutter to prevent water from washing 
over the side. What's happening is that rain is collecting in the roof valley from either 
side of the roof. As it collects and flows down the valley, the velocity and volume 
increases, which ends up overwhelming the gutter and washing right over the side of it at 
that corner. The water then goes to the ground in large amounts, even with a relatively 
small amount of rain.

2.) The ground is not graded away from the foundation at the corner. It can't 
just be landscaping crap like mulch, you've got to go in there with soil and 
fill the area enough to have a grade moving away from the foundation.  Once 
you've got good compacted soil properly graded you can cover it with 
landscaping.

I think we're looking at multiple problems that have come together to cause the 
damage over time. If you don't fix the gutter and grading, you're wasting your 
time fixing the damaged boards.

And I would definitely replace everything with treated lumber. Sill plates 
should be treated per code, I believe. The others would be for insurance.

-D

Sent from my iPad

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

So let me ask this. If water is standing in that low spot up against the 
foundation can water "wick" upward along the inside of the stem wall to the 
flooring area? 

We also seem to have a water intrusion issue at the window of one of the 
bedrooms on the front of the house because as I was under the house the stem 
wall was wet under the area where that window is and the surrounding areas were 
dry. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 29, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I would look at two things regarding the constructIon of the house as to the 
> moisture:
> 
> 1.) The gutter in the corner is not configured properly. There should be some 
> sort of "splash guard" on the outside edge of the gutter to prevent water 
> from washing over the side. What's happening is that rain is collecting in 
> the roof valley from either side of the roof. As it collects and flows down 
> the valley, the velocity and volume increases, which ends up overwhelming the 
> gutter and washing right over the side of it at that corner. The water then 
> goes to the ground in large amounts, even with a relatively small amount of 
> rain.
> 
> 2.) The ground is not graded away from the foundation at the corner. It can't 
> just be landscaping crap like mulch, you've got to go in there with soil and 
> fill the area enough to have a grade moving away from the foundation.  Once 
> you've got good compacted soil properly graded you can cover it with 
> landscaping.
> 
> I think we're looking at multiple problems that have come together to cause 
> the damage over time. If you don't fix the gutter and grading, you're wasting 
> your time fixing the damaged boards.
> 
> And I would definitely replace everything with treated lumber. Sill plates 
> should be treated per code, I believe. The others would be for insurance.
> 
> -D
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-29 Thread Dan--- via Mercedes

I would look at two things regarding the constructIon of the house as to the 
moisture:

1.) The gutter in the corner is not configured properly. There should be some 
sort of "splash guard" on the outside edge of the gutter to prevent water from 
washing over the side. What's happening is that rain is collecting in the roof 
valley from either side of the roof. As it collects and flows down the valley, 
the velocity and volume increases, which ends up overwhelming the gutter and 
washing right over the side of it at that corner. The water then goes to the 
ground in large amounts, even with a relatively small amount of rain.

2.) The ground is not graded away from the foundation at the corner. It can't 
just be landscaping crap like mulch, you've got to go in there with soil and 
fill the area enough to have a grade moving away from the foundation.  Once 
you've got good compacted soil properly graded you can cover it with 
landscaping.

I think we're looking at multiple problems that have come together to cause the 
damage over time. If you don't fix the gutter and grading, you're wasting your 
time fixing the damaged boards.

And I would definitely replace everything with treated lumber. Sill plates 
should be treated per code, I believe. The others would be for insurance.

-D

Sent from my iPad

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-29 Thread G Mann via Mercedes

Automotive uses:

Carbide thin kerf blade makes a great panel cutter for removing damaged
areas.  It's possible to make plunge cuts in center of a panel.. invent
other applications I haven't thought of.

Gasket scraper: Grind the teeth off of a straight blade [re-purpose one
thats gone dull] and sharpen it a bit... The thing goes through stuck on
gasket bits like butter..

DO NOT USE IT ON ALUMINUM.. aluminum is to soft and you will gouge the
gasket surface.. Don't ask how I learned that.. ha.. But.. cast iron, or
sheet metal.. works like a champ..

On Sun, Jan 29, 2017 at 7:23 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I have seen these but never gave them a thought. Do they have any
> automotive uses also?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jan 28, 2017, at 11:46 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > Kaleb,
> > That is the saw I had in mind.. I bought one, liked it so much, I bought
> a
> > second one. If you use just a bit of inventiveness you'll find ways to
> cut
> > things you never thought possible..
> >
> > BTW.. Home Depot also sells a saw like it.. for lots more money.. however
> > the blades will work on the Harbor Fright saw, and they are better
> > quality.. worth the few bucks.
> >
> > On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 5:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Is this the sort of saw you are talking about?
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/v
> >> ariable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 1/28/2017 2:54 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> >>>
> >>> This is the best idea I have heard so far. Can you share a link to this
> >>> HF saw you are talking about?
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>> On Jan 28, 2017, at 2:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  wrote:
> 
>  I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of
> trying
>  to
>  lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have
>  failed
>  also.
> 
>  Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut
>  vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of
>  those
>  with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain
>  access
>  to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve
> the
>  tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and
>  vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row.
> 
>  From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are
> when
>  you
>  see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which
> will
>  then give you access to the floor joists.  The flush cut blade will
> allow
>  you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging
> the
>  drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush
>  cut
>  blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal
>  would
>  do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it
> along
>  with the saw.
> 
>  With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged
>  joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates
> would be
>  "easy peasy"...
> 
>  Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it
> to
>  the
>  "now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the
>  broken
>  tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a
> hairline
>  crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it..
> match
>  the grout..done and dusted..
> 
>  Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less..
> 
>  On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes <
>  mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  wrote:
> 
>  On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
> >  wrote:
> >
> > On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
> >>>  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.
> >>>
> >> Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run
> TWO
> >> replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
> >> ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
> >> triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a
> few
> >> feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't
> cost
> >> much.
> >>
> > An excellent idea!
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >

Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I have seen these but never gave them a thought. Do they have any automotive 
uses also?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 28, 2017, at 11:46 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Kaleb,
> That is the saw I had in mind.. I bought one, liked it so much, I bought a
> second one. If you use just a bit of inventiveness you'll find ways to cut
> things you never thought possible..
> 
> BTW.. Home Depot also sells a saw like it.. for lots more money.. however
> the blades will work on the Harbor Fright saw, and they are better
> quality.. worth the few bucks.
> 
> On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 5:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Is this the sort of saw you are talking about?
>> 
>> 
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/v
>> ariable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html
>> 
>> 
>>> On 1/28/2017 2:54 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>>> 
>>> This is the best idea I have heard so far. Can you share a link to this
>>> HF saw you are talking about?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Jan 28, 2017, at 2:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
 wrote:

 I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of trying
 to
 lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have
 failed
 also.

 Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut
 vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of
 those
 with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain
 access
 to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the
 tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and
 vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row.

 From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are when
 you
 see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which will
 then give you access to the floor joists.  The flush cut blade will allow
 you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the
 drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush
 cut
 blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal
 would
 do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along
 with the saw.

 With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged
 joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates would be
 "easy peasy"...

 Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it to
 the
 "now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the
 broken
 tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline
 crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match
 the grout..done and dusted..

 Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less..

 On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 wrote:

 On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
> On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.
>>> 
>> Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO
>> replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
>> ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
>> triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few
>> feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost
>> much.
>> 
> An excellent idea!
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> ___
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>>> 
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>

Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes

I have that type of saw, but made by Fein.  Good stuff.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread G Mann via Mercedes

Kaleb,
That is the saw I had in mind.. I bought one, liked it so much, I bought a
second one. If you use just a bit of inventiveness you'll find ways to cut
things you never thought possible..

BTW.. Home Depot also sells a saw like it.. for lots more money.. however
the blades will work on the Harbor Fright saw, and they are better
quality.. worth the few bucks.

On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 5:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Is this the sort of saw you are talking about?
>
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/v
> ariable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html
>
>
> On 1/28/2017 2:54 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> This is the best idea I have heard so far. Can you share a link to this
>> HF saw you are talking about?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 28, 2017, at 2:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of trying
>>> to
>>> lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have
>>> failed
>>> also.
>>>
>>> Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut
>>> vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of
>>> those
>>> with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain
>>> access
>>> to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the
>>> tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and
>>> vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row.
>>>
>>>  From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are when
>>> you
>>> see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which will
>>> then give you access to the floor joists.  The flush cut blade will allow
>>> you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the
>>> drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush
>>> cut
>>> blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal
>>> would
>>> do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along
>>> with the saw.
>>>
>>> With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged
>>> joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates would be
>>> "easy peasy"...
>>>
>>> Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it to
>>> the
>>> "now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the
>>> broken
>>> tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline
>>> crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match
>>> the grout..done and dusted..
>>>
>>> Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less..
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
  wrote:

 On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
>>  wrote:
>>
>> The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.
>>
> Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO
> replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
> ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
> triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few
> feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost
> much.
>
 An excellent idea!


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes

Obviously you need to find and fix the water intrusion first.  There may be
more than one leak so don't declare victory to soon.

Also the sill plate looks like it needs to be replaced, preferably with
pressure-treated lumber.  The sill plate is the piece of wood that lies flat
on the foundation (and is normally bolted to the foundation) that supports
the ends of the joists.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 3:53 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
> 
> Ok so I just got out from under the house again. You guys are right, we do
have
> water getting in somewhere as the store wall is now damp as is the wood
area.
> I was going to try to add a piece of plywood between the outer header
board
> and the first joist but there is not enough room plus there is not
anything to
> mount it to, it's too rotted. In that section the joists are only 3 feet
long from
> the outer header plate to where the tie into a main support running the
> opposite direction. So pulling the tile up and cutting out the floor then
> replacing those 3 ft sections all the way across that section is going to
be the
> way too go, and should not be too difficult but just nasty.  It's just
going to be
> figuring out the tile that will be the deal. Probably means completely
replacing
> all the tile in the entire kitchen/formal dining area.
> 
> I need to figure out where the water is getting in. The front window is a
little
> ways away from the area and it doesn't seem like it would let that much
water
> in but maybe it's getting in there and running across to this area. It
does look
> like it needs to be caulked again around the frames. I took some more
photos
> for points of reference. The corner in question is a corner that is
between 2
> sets of windows on walls that are 90 degrees to the wall in question.



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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes


Yep!

you might try running it around the edge of the tiles to see it they 
will pop up as Grant suggested.   BUt it is good for cutting right up to 
the wall.


When you are finished cutting stuff out, be sure to span the joist 
spaces where the patch will meet the old subfloor with blocking so the 
subfloor does not flex between the joints.  (the tongue and grove in the 
sbfloot is supposed to do this in new installation.)



Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
January 28, 2017 at 6:44 PM
Is this the sort of saw you are talking about?


http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html 






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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread MG via Mercedes

That's the best one to get. You can vary the speed on it and
sometimes that helps to do a better job.

Manfred

Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Is this the sort of saw you are talking about?

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html

On 1/28/2017 2:54 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
This is the best idea I have heard so far. Can you share a link to
this HF saw you are talking about?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 28, 2017, at 2:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
wrote:

I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of
trying to
lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have
failed

also.

to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the
tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and
vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row.

you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the
drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the
flush cut
blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal
would

do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along
with the saw.

With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged
joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates
would be

"easy peasy"...

Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it
to the
"now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the
broken

tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline
crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match
the grout..done and dusted..

Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less..

On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes

wrote:

On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
wrote:

On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
wrote:

The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.
Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run
TWO

replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a
few

feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost
much.

An excellent idea!

Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes

Is this the sort of saw you are talking about?

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html

On 1/28/2017 2:54 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

This is the best idea I have heard so far. Can you share a link to this HF saw
you are talking about?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 28, 2017, at 2:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of trying to
lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have failed
also.

Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut
vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of those
with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain access
to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the
tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and
vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row.

From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are when you
see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which will
then give you access to the floor joists. The flush cut blade will allow
you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the
drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush cut
blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal would
do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along
with the saw.

With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged
joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates would be
"easy peasy"...

Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it to the
"now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the broken
tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline
crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match
the grout..done and dusted..

Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less..

On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
wrote:

On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
wrote:

The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.

Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO
replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few
feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost
much.

An excellent idea!

Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes

If the tile is unbroken now, and you can knock the grout out and cut the 
plywood out in tile sized pieces, maybe you have an excuse to buy a gas engine 
high potency pressure washer to blast the wood/mastic off the back of the tiles 
so you can reuse them?
That way you don't have to buy or cut any tile. 
 
Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes

This is the best idea I have heard so far. Can you share a link to this HF saw 
you are talking about?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 28, 2017, at 2:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of trying to
> lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have failed
> also.
> 
> Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut
> vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of those
> with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain access
> to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the
> tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and
> vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row.
> 
> From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are when you
> see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which will
> then give you access to the floor joists.  The flush cut blade will allow
> you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the
> drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush cut
> blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal would
> do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along
> with the saw.
> 
> With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged
> joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates would be
> "easy peasy"...
> 
> Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it to the
> "now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the broken
> tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline
> crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match
> the grout..done and dusted..
> 
> Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less..
> 
> On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> 
>> On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> 
 On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
  wrote:
 
 The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.
>>> 
>>> Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO
>>> replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
>>> ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
>>> triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few
>>> feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost
>>> much.
>> 
>> An excellent idea!
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread G Mann via Mercedes

I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of trying to
lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have failed
also.

Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut
vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of those
with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain access
to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the
tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and
vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row.

>From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are when you
see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which will
then give you access to the floor joists.  The flush cut blade will allow
you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the
drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush cut
blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal would
do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along
with the saw.

With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged
joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates would be
"easy peasy"...

Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it to the
"now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the broken
tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline
crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match
the grout..done and dusted..

Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less..

On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes 
wrote:

> On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
> >
> > > On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
> > >  wrote:
> > >
> > > The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.
> >
> > Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO
> > replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
> > ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
> > triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few
> > feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost
> > much.
>
> An excellent idea!
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread Craig via Mercedes

On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
 wrote:

> 
> > On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.
> 
> Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO
> replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
> ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
> triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few
> feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost
> much. 

An excellent idea!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-28 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes

> On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" 
>  wrote:
> 
> The joists 
> themselves are fine except on the very end.

Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO 
replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted ones, with 
2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to triple joist, to double 
joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few feet at the end, materials for 
the double reinforcement shouldn't cost much. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes

I thought about that if we end up just renting it.  The only soft 
spot is in that corner where you see that cracked tile.  The rest 
of the floor is solid except it was dropped down about 1/4", but I 
jacked it back up and it is supported and shown in the photos, so 
there is added support and its not going anywhere.  The joists 
themselves are fine except on the very end.



On 1/27/2017 1:21 AM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:

That doesn't look so bad on the inside.  Is the damaged subfloor punky or
just discolored?

If the subfloor is essentially intact maybe you can reinforce from below
with pieces of subfloor cut to fit between the joists and supported by
cleats or sisters nailed to the existing joists.  Some jacking will be
needed.  But the area must be dry (no continuing intrusion).  The down side
would be working in the crawl space; a helper is extremely helpful in that
case.


-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 3:06 PM

The exterior is full brick. I do not see any evidence of water staining

the

Sheetrock. There are several tiles in the laundry room that are cracked. I
wonder what the chances are or being able to remove that tile without
breaking them. I could then use the tile from the laundry room to replace

tiles

in the kitchen area. Then put something else in the laundry room. To open

up

the floor in the kitchen area I would probably have to take up 2-3 rows of

tile.

I just went by the house and took some pics for reference. First photo is

the

area in question outside the house followed by same area inside the house.

I

also took a long shot showing how it blends into the formal dining, then a

shot

of how we did the tile on the adjoining entry area



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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes

That doesn't look so bad on the inside.  Is the damaged subfloor punky or
just discolored?  

If the subfloor is essentially intact maybe you can reinforce from below
with pieces of subfloor cut to fit between the joists and supported by
cleats or sisters nailed to the existing joists.  Some jacking will be
needed.  But the area must be dry (no continuing intrusion).  The down side
would be working in the crawl space; a helper is extremely helpful in that
case.

> -Original Message-
> From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 3:06 PM
> 
> The exterior is full brick. I do not see any evidence of water staining
the
> Sheetrock. There are several tiles in the laundry room that are cracked. I
> wonder what the chances are or being able to remove that tile without
> breaking them. I could then use the tile from the laundry room to replace
tiles
> in the kitchen area. Then put something else in the laundry room. To open
up
> the floor in the kitchen area I would probably have to take up 2-3 rows of
tile.
> 
> I just went by the house and took some pics for reference. First photo is
the
> area in question outside the house followed by same area inside the house.
I
> also took a long shot showing how it blends into the formal dining, then a
shot
> of how we did the tile on the adjoining entry area



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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes

Some of the recent fads in home design are truly bad ideas.  Rock kitchen 
counters is one.  Huge bathrooms is another.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 11:34 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Andrew Strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
> 
> I had a spectacular display after dropping two plates maybe 8" vertically onto
> the granite counter top..  The shards skittered clear across the counter and
> kitchen floor.  Took hours to find every little fleck.
> 
> On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 10:15 PM, OK Don via Mercedes
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com
> > wrote:
> 
> > We have not had any breakage due to the granite counter tops - no more
> > than the formica ones previously. The key is not to drop glass things on
> them!
> >
> > On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 1:36 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Less breakage on kitchen floors with a wood floor.  Granite
> > > countertops, do, however, cause some SPECTACULAR shattering.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > OK Don
> >
> > *“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and
> > many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain
> >
> > "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The
> > few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the
> > electric fence for themselves."
> >
> > WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> > 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> > 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
> > 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> > ___
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors


those rock hard countertops suck bigtime.   Just one more reason why.



Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
January 26, 2017 at 10:33 PM
I had a spectacular display after dropping two plates maybe 8" vertically
onto the granite counter top..  The shards skittered clear across the
counter and kitchen floor.  Took hours to find every little fleck.



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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes

I had a spectacular display after dropping two plates maybe 8" vertically
onto the granite counter top..  The shards skittered clear across the
counter and kitchen floor.  Took hours to find every little fleck.

On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 10:15 PM, OK Don via Mercedes  wrote:

> We have not had any breakage due to the granite counter tops - no more than
> the formica ones previously. The key is not to drop glass things on them!
>
> On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 1:36 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Less breakage on kitchen floors with a wood floor.  Granite countertops,
> > do, however, cause some SPECTACULAR shattering.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> OK Don
>
> *“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
> our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain
>
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for themselves."
>
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread OK Don via Mercedes

We have not had any breakage due to the granite counter tops - no more than
the formica ones previously. The key is not to drop glass things on them!

On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 1:36 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Less breakage on kitchen floors with a wood floor.  Granite countertops,
> do, however, cause some SPECTACULAR shattering.
>
>
>

-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Why for? We have '80s era Formica now, it's fine but dated looking...

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

  On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 7:08 PM, Curley McLain via 
Mercedes wrote:   Granite, quartz, concrete, tile etc., 
hard countertops suck big time.  
I'll take formica or laminated hard maple anytime.

> Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
> January 26, 2017 at 2:04 PM
> I never thought of that, I've been thinking of granite counters...
> -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes

You don’t own a miter saw and you’re going to attempt to repair all this stuff?

Lumber Liquidators.  I’m sure there’s one in Tulsa or other major city nearby.  
Cheapass flooring that will look decent and cost little.

-D

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 7:30 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have no miter saw, would Have to buy one from HF or something 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I have no miter saw, would Have to buy one from HF or something 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 6:23 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I saw 69¢/ sq ft.  there is always something available for under a buck a sq 
> ft.  It is about the same as the cheapest tile you can find (like what is in 
> your house) without the adhesive, backer board or grout.  Since the pergo 
> type floor needs no backerboard, thinset(adhesive) or grout, the fake wood 
> ends up being cheaper and faster to put down.  It WILL dull the blade in your 
> miter saw, so factor in the cost of a new blade in the installation costs.
> 
>> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>> January 26, 2017 at 2:19 PM
>> The area is dry as a bone. The house sat without windows or doors for 2-3 
>> years, not a few days. How cheap or expensive is this wood flooring stuff? 
>> Tile seems too expensive and hard to deal with to me.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

maybe you could salvage the laundry room tiles by pulling up the floor 
sheets and throw that in a pond, pool, stock tank, ebola fishbowl full 
of water, creek, river, (etc.) and let it soak for a week or so.  the 
chipboard will disintegrate, leaving you the the tile and thinset or 
other adhesive. they used.



Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
January 26, 2017 at 2:48 PM
Brick is sometimes porous and the house looks to be pretty low to the 
ground. I also note lots of leaves. Does the eavestrough fill up with 
leaves and does the rainwater then pour over onto the ground? That 
might be enough to have caused your rotted sill.
Hard to tell without actually being there but the tile job by the 
entry door does not look too bad. You might be able to do something 
similar.
Doubtful that you can get the tiles off of the laundry room floor 
intact. Unless they did a poor job of sticking them down. If they are 
just on the OSB underlay and not well stuck in the quickset then it 
might be done but it would be a mess. You would probably have to put 
down new underlay in the laundry room too and unless you want uneven 
floors between rooms, then you would likely have to remove the old 
floor and replace down to the joists. More expense which probably 
would not be worthwhile.


RB


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I saw 69¢/ sq ft.  there is always something available for under a buck 
a sq ft.  It is about the same as the cheapest tile you can find (like 
what is in your house) without the adhesive, backer board or grout.  
Since the pergo type floor needs no backerboard, thinset(adhesive) or 
grout, the fake wood ends up being cheaper and faster to put down.  It 
WILL dull the blade in your miter saw, so factor in the cost of a new 
blade in the installation costs.



Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
January 26, 2017 at 2:19 PM
The area is dry as a bone. The house sat without windows or doors for 
2-3 years, not a few days. How cheap or expensive is this wood 
flooring stuff? Tile seems too expensive and hard to deal with to me.


Sent from my iPhone


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Granite, quartz, concrete, tile etc., hard countertops suck big time.  
I'll take formica or laminated hard maple anytime.



Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
January 26, 2017 at 2:04 PM
I never thought of that, I've been thinking of granite counters...
-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Well I have about 50-60k in equity in it. Would be a shame to lose that.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> And, if the bank dumps it and gets less than it is owed, they will sue you 
> for the balance including all of their costs.
> 
> RB
> 
>> On 26/01/2017 4:07 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> Trying to avoid a forclosure on my record
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 26, 2017, at 3:35 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Handing the keys to the bank is not a good option.
>>> 
>>> RB
>>> 
>>> On 26/01/2017 3:33 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
> ‎We are too the point we need to just get >rid of it or get it rented.
 Hand the bank the keys and say, "Here you go".
 
 Or sell it for what you owe.
 
 Rick ‎
 ___
 
>>> 
>>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Yes

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 4:25 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Which becomes taxable income, too, I believe.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Jan 26, 2017, at 5:10 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> And, if the bank dumps it and gets less than it is owed, they will sue you 
>> for the balance including all of their costs.
>> 
>> RB
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes

Which becomes taxable income, too, I believe.

-D

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 5:10 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> And, if the bank dumps it and gets less than it is owed, they will sue you 
> for the balance including all of their costs.
> 
> RB


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

And, if the bank dumps it and gets less than it is owed, they will sue 
you for the balance including all of their costs.


RB

On 26/01/2017 4:07 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Trying to avoid a forclosure on my record

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 26, 2017, at 3:35 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes  
wrote:

Handing the keys to the bank is not a good option.

RB

On 26/01/2017 3:33 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

‎We are too the point we need to just get >rid of it or get it rented.

Hand the bank the keys and say, "Here you go".

Or sell it for what you owe.

Rick ‎
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Trying to avoid a forclosure on my record

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 3:35 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Handing the keys to the bank is not a good option.
> 
> RB
> 
> On 26/01/2017 3:33 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
>>> ‎We are too the point we need to just get >rid of it or get it rented.
>> Hand the bank the keys and say, "Here you go".
>> 
>> Or sell it for what you owe.
>> 
>> Rick ‎
>> ___
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors


Handing the keys to the bank is not a good option.

RB

On 26/01/2017 3:33 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

‎We are too the point we need to just get >rid of it or get it rented.

Hand the bank the keys and say, "Here you go".

Or sell it for what you owe.

Rick ‎
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes

>‎We are too the point we need to just get >rid of it or get it rented.

Hand the bank the keys and say, "Here you go".

Or sell it for what you owe.

Rick ‎
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes

That and it’s probably the crappiest time of year to be selling a home, too.  
You should spend some time making it right, but not invest a lot of money, and 
have it ready to go on the market in March.  That’s when things start heating 
up.

-D


> On Jan 26, 2017, at 4:26 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> We are too the point we need to just get rid of it or get it rented. It is in 
> a good area but for some reason we have only had maybe 2-3 showings in the 
> almost 90 days it has been on the market. It is really strange. Other 
> realtors are saying it's a slow moving price range right now.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

We are too the point we need to just get rid of it or get it rented. It is in a 
good area but for some reason we have only had maybe 2-3 showings in the almost 
90 days it has been on the market. It is really strange. Other realtors are 
saying it's a slow moving price range right now.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 2:55 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
>> On 26/01/2017 2:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> The area is dry as a bone. The house sat without windows or doors for 2-3 
>> years, not a few days.  How cheap or expensive is this wood flooring stuff? 
>> Tile seems too expensive and hard to deal with to me.
>> 
> 
> But the question is really "how much do you want to sell the house for?"
> IF you are prepared to just get rid of it, then don't do anymore than you 
> absolutely have to.
> But you said it was in a good area etc so if the market is ok around there, 
> maybe you can capitalize on the location.
> Then you need to make it look really good. A basic patch is not enough.
> You need to watch some of these home flipper shows on TV. They know how to 
> modernize and stage a home so that buyers are willing to pay a good price.
> If the rest of the home justifies the investment, I would have a look at some 
> of the new show homes in the area and see what the popular trends are right 
> now and then I would try to copy them.
> A few years ago it was granite countertops and stainless steel appliances. 
> Many years ago, it was shag carpet etc.
> Try to make it look like the new higher end housing and not like someone who 
> truly did not care about it, patched up an obvious problem and maybe did not 
> do it all that well.
> You need to keep the yard clean too - get rid of those leaves on the ground.
> 
> RB
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

The tile was not mounted to an underlay, it is stuck directly on the plywood 
subfloor. The laundry room is also across a hall which is carpeted so it does 
not directly contact the tile in the kitchen 

That area you see the gas meter will sometime get standing water there if we 
get a lot of rain. Which I had planned on hauling in some dirt. If the gutters 
are not cleaned out water will spill out and run off to the ground in this area.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 2:48 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Brick is sometimes porous and the house looks to be pretty low to the ground. 
> I also note lots of leaves. Does the eavestrough fill up with leaves and does 
> the rainwater then pour over onto the ground? That might be enough to have 
> caused your rotted sill.
> Hard to tell without actually being there but the tile job by the entry door 
> does not look too bad. You might be able to do something similar.
> Doubtful that you can get the tiles off of the laundry room floor intact. 
> Unless they did a poor job of sticking them down. If they are just on the OSB 
> underlay and not well stuck in the quickset then it might be done but it 
> would be a mess. You would probably have to put down new underlay in the 
> laundry room too and unless you want uneven floors between rooms, then you 
> would likely have to remove the old floor and replace down to the joists. 
> More expense which probably would not be worthwhile.
> 
> RB
> 
> 
>> On 26/01/2017 2:06 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> The exterior is full brick. I do not see any evidence of water staining the 
>> Sheetrock. There are several tiles in the laundry room that are cracked. I 
>> wonder what the chances are or being able to remove that tile without 
>> breaking them. I could then use the tile from the laundry room to replace 
>> tiles in the kitchen area. Then put something else in the laundry room. To 
>> open up the floor in the kitchen area I would probably have to take up 2-3 
>> rows of tile.
>> 
>> I just went by the house and took some pics for reference. First photo is 
>> the area in question outside the house followed by same area inside the 
>> house. I also took a long shot showing how it blends into the formal dining, 
>> then a shot of how we did the tile on the adjoining entry area
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Mountain Man via Mercedes

What about the new wood that doesn't burn - what is the name?  Some
sort of composite made in huge slab and cut to dimension.  Fire
resistant, etc.  Search finds CLT - cross laminated timber.  Someone
here in DIY okiebenz knows CLT, probably.  A recent article indicated
it is quite fire resistant and quite structural and probably $$ which
is not very okiebenz...

Are you sure the rot issue is rot and not termite infestation?  A
friend got under his 1935 cottage home and painted all the wood down
to kill wood eaters.  Very small insects on old wood, but evident
damage.  Don't do a URO fix - buy dealer parts and do it right.  Sell
as "buyer beware, no warranty"?
tin-man

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors


On 26/01/2017 2:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

The area is dry as a bone. The house sat without windows or doors for 2-3 
years, not a few days.  How cheap or expensive is this wood flooring stuff? 
Tile seems too expensive and hard to deal with to me.



But the question is really "how much do you want to sell the house for?"
IF you are prepared to just get rid of it, then don't do anymore than 
you absolutely have to.
But you said it was in a good area etc so if the market is ok around 
there, maybe you can capitalize on the location.

Then you need to make it look really good. A basic patch is not enough.
You need to watch some of these home flipper shows on TV. They know how 
to modernize and stage a home so that buyers are willing to pay a good 
price.
If the rest of the home justifies the investment, I would have a look at 
some of the new show homes in the area and see what the popular trends 
are right now and then I would try to copy them.
A few years ago it was granite countertops and stainless steel 
appliances. Many years ago, it was shag carpet etc.
Try to make it look like the new higher end housing and not like someone 
who truly did not care about it, patched up an obvious problem and maybe 
did not do it all that well.

You need to keep the yard clean too - get rid of those leaves on the ground.

RB

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Brick is sometimes porous and the house looks to be pretty low to the 
ground. I also note lots of leaves. Does the eavestrough fill up with 
leaves and does the rainwater then pour over onto the ground? That might 
be enough to have caused your rotted sill.
Hard to tell without actually being there but the tile job by the entry 
door does not look too bad. You might be able to do something similar.
Doubtful that you can get the tiles off of the laundry room floor 
intact. Unless they did a poor job of sticking them down. If they are 
just on the OSB underlay and not well stuck in the quickset then it 
might be done but it would be a mess. You would probably have to put 
down new underlay in the laundry room too and unless you want uneven 
floors between rooms, then you would likely have to remove the old floor 
and replace down to the joists. More expense which probably would not be 
worthwhile.


RB


On 26/01/2017 2:06 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

The exterior is full brick. I do not see any evidence of water staining the 
Sheetrock. There are several tiles in the laundry room that are cracked. I 
wonder what the chances are or being able to remove that tile without breaking 
them. I could then use the tile from the laundry room to replace tiles in the 
kitchen area. Then put something else in the laundry room. To open up the floor 
in the kitchen area I would probably have to take up 2-3 rows of tile.

I just went by the house and took some pics for reference. First photo is the 
area in question outside the house followed by same area inside the house. I 
also took a long shot showing how it blends into the formal dining, then a shot 
of how we did the tile on the adjoining entry area




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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

The area is dry as a bone. The house sat without windows or doors for 2-3 
years, not a few days.  How cheap or expensive is this wood flooring stuff? 
Tile seems too expensive and hard to deal with to me. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 2:14 PM, Dan--- via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Looks like the area isn't graded away from the house. That's a no-no.
> 
> Second, I concur on the engineered wood floor. There are plenty of places 
> that sell the cheap stuff that would look decent enough to get the place 
> sold. No need to put good stuff like Pergo in there.
> 
> And to pile on, the rot is something that's been there due to moisture/water 
> incursion for a long time. That's in no way due to rain from a few days of 
> exposure. I've built several houses that have been open to the elements while 
> being framed and had rain and snow in them. They dried out quickly with no 
> consequences. For you to get that extreme of rot and damage you would have to 
> have water or moisture present continuously for some time, like weeks or 
> months.
> 
> The question would be is the area still damp? I suspect it is, as even rotted 
> areas like this will eventually dry out if the source of moisture is removed.
> 
> -D
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jan 26, 2017, at 3:06 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> The exterior is full brick. I do not see any evidence of water staining the 
>> Sheetrock. There are several tiles in the laundry room that are cracked. I 
>> wonder what the chances are or being able to remove that tile without 
>> breaking them. I could then use the tile from the laundry room to replace 
>> tiles in the kitchen area. Then put something else in the laundry room. To 
>> open up the floor in the kitchen area I would probably have to take up 2-3 
>> rows of tile. 
>> 
>> I just went by the house and took some pics for reference. First photo is 
>> the area in question outside the house followed by same area inside the 
>> house. I also took a long shot showing how it blends into the formal dining, 
>> then a shot of how we did the tile on the adjoining entry area
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 26, 2017, at 11:41 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes  
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all 
>>> that complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to 
>>> open it up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
>>> I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the 
>>> replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine the 
>>> source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
>>> It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if 
>>> possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long 
>>> period of time that the house sat while partly built.
>>> What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be 
>>> able to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it. You 
>>> might find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find any 
>>> evidence of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.
>>> 
>>> Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water 
>>> staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in the 
>>> attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
>>> Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up under 
>>> the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season is much 
>>> shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as it is here. 
>>> Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We have figured 
>>> out how to avoid it for the most part.
>>> 
>>> As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look good 
>>> or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says "people buy 
>>> lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul in the TV and 
>>> the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any work on the house. 
>>> So, in order to sell and get a good price the house has to look nice. 
>>> Buyers may overlook the fact that the roof is about to need new shingles 
>>> but they will be unhappy if the interior does not look ready for them to 
>>> move in. Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects are best.
>>> 
>>> Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I 
>>> have done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was hard 
>>> work in my opinion and a bit stressful.
>>> 
>>> If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for 
>>> alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just 
>>> finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it. Look 
>>> for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good

Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Dan--- via Mercedes

Looks like the area isn't graded away from the house. That's a no-no.

Second, I concur on the engineered wood floor. There are plenty of places that 
sell the cheap stuff that would look decent enough to get the place sold. No 
need to put good stuff like Pergo in there.

And to pile on, the rot is something that's been there due to moisture/water 
incursion for a long time. That's in no way due to rain from a few days of 
exposure. I've built several houses that have been open to the elements while 
being framed and had rain and snow in them. They dried out quickly with no 
consequences. For you to get that extreme of rot and damage you would have to 
have water or moisture present continuously for some time, like weeks or months.

The question would be is the area still damp? I suspect it is, as even rotted 
areas like this will eventually dry out if the source of moisture is removed.

-D

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 3:06 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The exterior is full brick. I do not see any evidence of water staining the 
> Sheetrock. There are several tiles in the laundry room that are cracked. I 
> wonder what the chances are or being able to remove that tile without 
> breaking them. I could then use the tile from the laundry room to replace 
> tiles in the kitchen area. Then put something else in the laundry room. To 
> open up the floor in the kitchen area I would probably have to take up 2-3 
> rows of tile. 
> 
> I just went by the house and took some pics for reference. First photo is the 
> area in question outside the house followed by same area inside the house. I 
> also took a long shot showing how it blends into the formal dining, then a 
> shot of how we did the tile on the adjoining entry area
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jan 26, 2017, at 11:41 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes  
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all that 
>> complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to open it 
>> up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
>> I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the 
>> replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine the 
>> source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
>> It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if 
>> possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long period 
>> of time that the house sat while partly built.
>> What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be able 
>> to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it. You might 
>> find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find any evidence 
>> of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.
>> 
>> Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water 
>> staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in the 
>> attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
>> Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up under 
>> the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season is much 
>> shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as it is here. 
>> Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We have figured out 
>> how to avoid it for the most part.
>> 
>> As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look good 
>> or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says "people buy 
>> lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul in the TV and 
>> the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any work on the house. 
>> So, in order to sell and get a good price the house has to look nice. Buyers 
>> may overlook the fact that the roof is about to need new shingles but they 
>> will be unhappy if the interior does not look ready for them to move in. 
>> Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects are best.
>> 
>> Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I have 
>> done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was hard work in 
>> my opinion and a bit stressful.
>> 
>> If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for 
>> alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just 
>> finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it. Look 
>> for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good flooring nailer and have at it.
>> 
>> My 2 cents.
>> 
>> RB
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives

Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes

The latest craze is "quartz", which is a manufactured stone that is To Die
For.  I assume dishes would shatter just as easily on "quartz" as on
granite..  We inherited a kitchen with dark brown granite, which is so
early 2000s but I love it anyway, being a Geologist.

On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 3:04 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I never thought of that, I've been thinking of granite counters...
> -Curt
>
>   From: Andrew Strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com>
>  To: Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com>; Mercedes Discussion List <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 2:36 PM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
>
> Less breakage on kitchen floors with a wood floor.  Granite countertops,
> do, however, cause some SPECTACULAR shattering.
> On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 1:34 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> I'm with Randy on hardwood. Looks better than tile, easier to install. If
> you get the pre-finished stuff it goes in fast.
> -Curt
>
>   From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
>  Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:41 PM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
>
> I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all
> that complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to
> open it up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
> I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the
> replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine
> the source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
> It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if
> possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long
> period of time that the house sat while partly built.
> What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be
> able to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it.
> You might find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find
> any evidence of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.
>
> Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water
> staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in
> the attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
> Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up
> under the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season
> is much shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as
> it is here. Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We
> have figured out how to avoid it for the most part.
>
> As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look
> good or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says
> "people buy lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul
> in the TV and the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any
> work on the house. So, in order to sell and get a good price the house
> has to look nice. Buyers may overlook the fact that the roof is about to
> need new shingles but they will be unhappy if the interior does not look
> ready for them to move in. Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects
> are best.
>
> Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I
> have done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was
> hard work in my opinion and a bit stressful.
>
> If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for
> alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just
> finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it.
> Look for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good flooring nailer and have at
> it.
>
> My 2 cents.
>
> RB
>
> __ _
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/ archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/ mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.com
>
>
>
>
> __ _
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/ archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/ mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I never thought of that, I've been thinking of granite counters...
-Curt

  From: Andrew Strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com>
 To: Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com>; Mercedes Discussion List 
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
 Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 2:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Less breakage on kitchen floors with a wood floor.  Granite countertops, do, 
however, cause some SPECTACULAR shattering.
On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 1:34 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I'm with Randy on hardwood. Looks better than tile, easier to install. If you 
get the pre-finished stuff it goes in fast.
-Curt

      From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
 Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all
that complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to
open it up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the
replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine
the source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if
possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long
period of time that the house sat while partly built.
What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be
able to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it.
You might find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find
any evidence of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.

Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water
staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in
the attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up
under the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season
is much shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as
it is here. Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We
have figured out how to avoid it for the most part.

As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look
good or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says
"people buy lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul
in the TV and the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any
work on the house. So, in order to sell and get a good price the house
has to look nice. Buyers may overlook the fact that the roof is about to
need new shingles but they will be unhappy if the interior does not look
ready for them to move in. Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects
are best.

Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I
have done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was
hard work in my opinion and a bit stressful.

If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for
alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just
finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it.
Look for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good flooring nailer and have at
it.

My 2 cents.

RB

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes

Less breakage on kitchen floors with a wood floor.  Granite countertops,
do, however, cause some SPECTACULAR shattering.

On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 1:34 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I'm with Randy on hardwood. Looks better than tile, easier to install. If
> you get the pre-finished stuff it goes in fast.
> -Curt
>
>   From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
>  Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:41 PM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
>
> I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all
> that complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to
> open it up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
> I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the
> replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine
> the source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
> It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if
> possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long
> period of time that the house sat while partly built.
> What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be
> able to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it.
> You might find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find
> any evidence of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.
>
> Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water
> staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in
> the attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
> Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up
> under the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season
> is much shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as
> it is here. Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We
> have figured out how to avoid it for the most part.
>
> As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look
> good or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says
> "people buy lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul
> in the TV and the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any
> work on the house. So, in order to sell and get a good price the house
> has to look nice. Buyers may overlook the fact that the roof is about to
> need new shingles but they will be unhappy if the interior does not look
> ready for them to move in. Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects
> are best.
>
> Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I
> have done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was
> hard work in my opinion and a bit stressful.
>
> If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for
> alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just
> finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it.
> Look for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good flooring nailer and have at
> it.
>
> My 2 cents.
>
> RB
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I'm with Randy on hardwood. Looks better than tile, easier to install. If you 
get the pre-finished stuff it goes in fast.
-Curt

  From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
 Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all 
that complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to 
open it up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the 
replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine 
the source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if 
possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long 
period of time that the house sat while partly built.
What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be 
able to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it. 
You might find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find 
any evidence of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.

Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water 
staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in 
the attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up 
under the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season 
is much shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as 
it is here. Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We 
have figured out how to avoid it for the most part.

As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look 
good or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says 
"people buy lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul 
in the TV and the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any 
work on the house. So, in order to sell and get a good price the house 
has to look nice. Buyers may overlook the fact that the roof is about to 
need new shingles but they will be unhappy if the interior does not look 
ready for them to move in. Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects 
are best.

Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I 
have done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was 
hard work in my opinion and a bit stressful.

If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for 
alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just 
finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it. 
Look for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good flooring nailer and have at 
it.

My 2 cents.

RB

___
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I thought about it but they'd have to be 100+ feet long. The problem with our 
yard was that the ground sloped away from the house to a trough maybe 25 feet 
out. The water hit that trough and rolled right back to the house. Once I 
filled the trough we got way less intrusion. Now we need another layer to raise 
the slope over where the trough used to be. Last time I just filled the low 
spot, now I need raise the level at the house.
-Curt

  From: Craig via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Craig <diese...@pisquared.net>
 Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 11:10 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
   
On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 13:54:12 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Having gone around our house with the inspector I'm inclined to agree.
> Also for stuff like water intrusion in the basement he was just
> wrong. "Oh this basement doesn't look like its ever had any water."
> they had painted it. Now having lived there I can see how the yard was
> sloped all wrong, the first couple years we lived there we had bad
> water in the basement. 5 yards of soil later and we have much less. 5
> more yards and we should have none... -Curt

Don't forget French drains. See
http://www.askthebuilder.com/search-results/?q=French%20drains (and skip
the Ads by Google section)


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread G Mann via Mercedes

It's been my experience that if a bank ran the finish build out on the
property, they will have cut every possible corner to "contain costs",
which means they cheated at every possible point.

Just bought a property here that was a victim of the 2008 banking crash,
builder had started a development in a very exclusive neighborhood, 1.4
acre properties. Builder was suddenly left hanging with 3 houses
unfinished, because bank pulled financing during the "great bank crash of
2008".. it became "bank owned property".

Current property owner was upside down in the property. In talking with
them, discovered the heating and cooling bills were always astronomical.
Upon proper home inspection, discovered there was NO insulation in the
3,900 sq ft house. Bank had taken over property, and simply, "closed up the
walls at minimum expense.." Further, found serious faults in wiring,
plumbing and roofing, all which the bank "closed up" ... in order to sell
it to clear their books, taking unfair advantage of the unsuspecting new
owner.

Sad set of affairs, but I suspect it's one that was repeated in Kalebs
homes case, and something to add to your personal survival list. Ask when
the home was finished, and who owned it when it was.. if it was a bank..
run..

On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 10:41 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all
> that complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to
> open it up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
> I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the
> replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine the
> source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
> It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if
> possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long
> period of time that the house sat while partly built.
> What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be
> able to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it. You
> might find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find any
> evidence of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.
>
> Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water
> staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in the
> attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
> Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up under
> the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season is much
> shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as it is here.
> Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We have figured
> out how to avoid it for the most part.
>
> As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look good
> or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says "people buy
> lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul in the TV and
> the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any work on the house.
> So, in order to sell and get a good price the house has to look nice.
> Buyers may overlook the fact that the roof is about to need new shingles
> but they will be unhappy if the interior does not look ready for them to
> move in. Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects are best.
>
> Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I
> have done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was hard
> work in my opinion and a bit stressful.
>
> If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for
> alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just
> finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it. Look
> for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good flooring nailer and have at it.
>
> My 2 cents.
>
> RB
>
>
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> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I posted on the TDI forum to find out if I could use a 90a alternator instead 
of the 120 in it now. I hate to put a $350 new alternator in a $500 car. One of 
the guys there suggested used, found one not far from here for $40. Can't 
believe I didn't think to go used...
This car is to last out the winter, I plan to replace it in the spring.
-Curt

  From: Curley McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Curley McLain <126die...@gmail.com>
 Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:34 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
   
THAT HUGE SUCKING SOUND you hear is the jetta

Car-part.com for Curt, or crush it

> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> January 26, 2017 at 8:02 AM
> So if your car has an issue is it a pile of junk?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
> Curt Raymond via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> January 26, 2017 at 7:52 AM
> Correction: It was intended to be a higher end house. Now its a house 
> with a rotten floor, or put another way: a dump... ;)
> -Curt
>
> From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
>
> Well the problem is that bank is out of business. That is on the buyer 
> anyway as buyers have a certain amount of time after contract executed 
> to do inspections and request repairs or bail on contract. Linoleum is 
> a no go. This is a higher end house is a high end neighborhood. This 
> pergo flooring thing would be the only remotely viable solution other 
> than tile.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> January 25, 2017 at 6:45 PM
> Well the problem is that bank is out of business. That is on the buyer 
> anyway as buyers have a certain amount of time after contract executed 
> to do inspections and request repairs or bail on contract. Linoleum is 
> a no go. This is a higher end house is a high end neighborhood. This 
> pergo flooring thing would be the only remotely viable solution other 
> than tile.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
> Max Dillon via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> January 25, 2017 at 6:37 PM
> I put a tile floor in our kitchen, HARD hard work on your knees all 
> day (and yes there should have been cement backer-board under all that 
> tile) so be warned. I think linoleum would be a better choice, slap 
> that down and let the new owners put down tile or whatever.
>
> Talk to a lawyer about suing the bank that sold you that dump.
> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> January 25, 2017 at 6:05 PM
> So this involves the rent house from hell that has been empty for over 
> 3 months now trying to get it rented or sold.  This house was built in 
> 2002 but the builder was foreclosed on.  House sat without any windows 
> or doors for probably a year or 2 until the bank came in and finished 
> it, and it was then sold to us as new contruction, although we were 
> unaware of all this at the time of purchase.  About 5 years ago the 
> dog was walking out the front door and his leg literally broke thru a 
> ceramic tile at the front door.  I then discovered lots of wood rot in 
> this area by the front door and also termites.  We had the termites 
> taken care of and there are none now but a lot of the wood rot was not 
> termites but rather wood rot from it being wet from when no doors or 
> windows were on the house.  There was part of the plywo

Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

If its got big rust holes its not "high end" any more, its a "fixer upper"...
Not saying it couldn't be high end again but right now it isn't.
-Curt

  From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
 Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 9:02 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
   
So if your car has an issue is it a pile of junk?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 7:52 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> Correction: It was intended to be a higher end house. Now its a house with a 
> rotten floor, or put another way: a dump... ;)
> -Curt
> 
>      From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
> 
> Well the problem is that bank is out of business. That is on the buyer anyway 
> as buyers have a certain amount of time after contract executed to do 
> inspections and request repairs or bail on contract. Linoleum is a no go. 
> This is a higher end house is a high end neighborhood. This pergo flooring 
> thing would be the only remotely viable solution other than tile. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:37 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I put a tile floor in our kitchen, HARD hard work on your knees all day (and 
>> yes there should have been cement backer-board under all that tile) so be 
>> warned.  I think linoleum would be a better choice, slap that down and let 
>> the new owners put down tile or whatever.
>> 
>> Talk to a lawyer about suing the bank that sold you that dump.
>> -- 
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '87 300TD
>> '95 E300
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all 
that complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to 
open it up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the 
replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine 
the source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if 
possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long 
period of time that the house sat while partly built.
What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be 
able to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it. 
You might find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find 
any evidence of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.


Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water 
staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in 
the attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up 
under the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season 
is much shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as 
it is here. Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We 
have figured out how to avoid it for the most part.


As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look 
good or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says 
"people buy lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul 
in the TV and the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any 
work on the house. So, in order to sell and get a good price the house 
has to look nice. Buyers may overlook the fact that the roof is about to 
need new shingles but they will be unhappy if the interior does not look 
ready for them to move in. Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects 
are best.


Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I 
have done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was 
hard work in my opinion and a bit stressful.


If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for 
alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just 
finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it. 
Look for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good flooring nailer and have at 
it.


My 2 cents.

RB

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread OK Don via Mercedes

The roof ???

On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 7:07 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I don't see where it would be coming in as this wall is along a windowless
> area of the house. There is a Window on the front of the house 90 degrees
> to this wall that is about 3-4 feet away.
>
>
>
> --
>
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Craig via Mercedes

On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 09:02:09 -0700 Craig via Mercedes
 wrote:

> On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 07:07:45 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
>  wrote:
> 
> > I don't see where it would be coming in as this wall is along a
> > windowless area of the house. There is a Window on the front of the
> > house 90 degrees to this wall that is about 3-4 feet away.
> 
> Open it up and then ply the window and its wall and this wall with a
> hose.

>From the outside, of course! :-)


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Craig via Mercedes

On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 13:54:12 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Having gone around our house with the inspector I'm inclined to agree.
> Also for stuff like water intrusion in the basement he was just
> wrong. "Oh this basement doesn't look like its ever had any water."
> they had painted it. Now having lived there I can see how the yard was
> sloped all wrong, the first couple years we lived there we had bad
> water in the basement. 5 yards of soil later and we have much less. 5
> more yards and we should have none... -Curt

Don't forget French drains. See
http://www.askthebuilder.com/search-results/?q=French%20drains (and skip
the Ads by Google section)


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Craig via Mercedes

On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 07:07:45 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:

> I don't see where it would be coming in as this wall is along a
> windowless area of the house. There is a Window on the front of the
> house 90 degrees to this wall that is about 3-4 feet away.

Open it up and then ply the window and its wall and this wall with a hose.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-26 Thread Dan--- via Mercedes

I suspect it's all up to who you hire.

We've used inspectors on every purchase or sale we've done since 1986, and 
every one of them has been great. We vet them carefully and always get 
references, which may have something to do with our success.

The last one we used spent over four hours on our current home when we 
purchased it. There was a report (with pictures) of over forty pages we got 
that evening as we were fast tracking our closing.

He even did a wind mitigation report as a part of his inspection, which is 
usually done separately by an inspector to establish your insurance costs.  
That saved us about $400 annually off our homeowner's insurance.

-D

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Having gone around our house with the inspector I'm inclined to agree. Also 
> for stuff like water intrusion in the basement he was just wrong. "Oh this 
> basement doesn't look like its ever had any water." they had painted it. Now 
> having lived there I can see how the yard was sloped all wrong, the first 
> couple years we lived there we had bad water in the basement. 5 yards of soil 
> later and we have much less. 5 more yards and we should have none...
> -Curt
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors


THAT HUGE SUCKING SOUND you hear is the jetta

Car-part.com for Curt, or crush it


Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 26, 2017 at 8:02 AM
So if your car has an issue is it a pile of junk?

Sent from my iPhone



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Curt Raymond via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 26, 2017 at 7:52 AM
Correction: It was intended to be a higher end house. Now its a house 
with a rotten floor, or put another way: a dump... ;)

-Curt

From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Well the problem is that bank is out of business. That is on the buyer 
anyway as buyers have a certain amount of time after contract executed 
to do inspections and request repairs or bail on contract. Linoleum is 
a no go. This is a higher end house is a high end neighborhood. This 
pergo flooring thing would be the only remotely viable solution other 
than tile.


Sent from my iPhone



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Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 25, 2017 at 6:45 PM
Well the problem is that bank is out of business. That is on the buyer 
anyway as buyers have a certain amount of time after contract executed 
to do inspections and request repairs or bail on contract. Linoleum is 
a no go. This is a higher end house is a high end neighborhood. This 
pergo flooring thing would be the only remotely viable solution other 
than tile.


Sent from my iPhone



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Max Dillon via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 25, 2017 at 6:37 PM
I put a tile floor in our kitchen, HARD hard work on your knees all 
day (and yes there should have been cement backer-board under all that 
tile) so be warned. I think linoleum would be a better choice, slap 
that down and let the new owners put down tile or whatever.


Talk to a lawyer about suing the bank that sold you that dump.
Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 25, 2017 at 6:05 PM
So this involves the rent house from hell that has been empty for over 
3 months now trying to get it rented or sold.  This house was built in 
2002 but the builder was foreclosed on.  House sat without any windows 
or doors for probably a year or 2 until the bank came in and finished 
it, and it was then sold to us as new contruction, although we were 
unaware of all this at the time of purchase.  About 5 years ago the 
dog was walking out the front door and his leg literally broke thru a 
ceramic tile at the front door.  I then discovered lots of wood rot in 
this area by the front door and also termites.  We had the termites 
taken care of and there are none now but a lot of the wood rot was not 
termites but rather wood rot from it being wet from when no doors or 
windows were on the house.  There was part of the plywood rotted, and 
the header plate or whatever you call it was rotted out as well 
directly under the front door.  This plate runs parallel to the floor 
joists. I had a buddy of mine come in and cut out a section of the 
flooring after pulling up the ceramic tile in the entry, cut out that 
section of the header board and installed a new piece, then replaced 
the plywood and we put new tile in the entry area.  There is currently 
some wood rot of various degrees all along the front of the house in 
this header plate mainly under where the windows are but this was the 
worse area at the time.  So after the renters moved out I discovered 
the corner of the floor in the kitchen dining area is sagging starting 
in corner next to where the window is, and extends along the wall 
running a 90 degree angle from the front of the house.  So I get under 
and discover a significant amount of wood rot in that corner. 
Basically the header plate is completely rotted out.  The difference 
this time is the floor joist mount to this plate so they are basically 
not supported a

Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

So if your car has an issue is it a pile of junk?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 7:52 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> Correction: It was intended to be a higher end house. Now its a house with a 
> rotten floor, or put another way: a dump... ;)
> -Curt
> 
>  From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
> 
> Well the problem is that bank is out of business. That is on the buyer anyway 
> as buyers have a certain amount of time after contract executed to do 
> inspections and request repairs or bail on contract. Linoleum is a no go. 
> This is a higher end house is a high end neighborhood. This pergo flooring 
> thing would be the only remotely viable solution other than tile. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:37 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I put a tile floor in our kitchen, HARD hard work on your knees all day (and 
>> yes there should have been cement backer-board under all that tile) so be 
>> warned.  I think linoleum would be a better choice, slap that down and let 
>> the new owners put down tile or whatever.
>> 
>> Talk to a lawyer about suing the bank that sold you that dump.
>> -- 
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '87 300TD
>> '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Having gone around our house with the inspector I'm inclined to agree. Also for 
stuff like water intrusion in the basement he was just wrong. "Oh this basement 
doesn't look like its ever had any water." they had painted it. Now having 
lived there I can see how the yard was sloped all wrong, the first couple years 
we lived there we had bad water in the basement. 5 yards of soil later and we 
have much less. 5 more yards and we should have none...
-Curt

  From: Dimitri via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Dimitri <dsereta...@yahoo.com>
 Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:58 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
   
I don't get inspections when I buy.  Waste of time and money and an inspection 
contingency makes your offer less competitive in a hot market. Also a lot of 
times, inspectors are less knowledgeable than I. If it has structural issues I 
can see them and just budget that in. If electrical etc is shoddy I again 
budget that in.

Sent from my iPhone
   
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Correction: It was intended to be a higher end house. Now its a house with a 
rotten floor, or put another way: a dump... ;)
-Curt

  From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
 Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Well the problem is that bank is out of business. That is on the buyer anyway 
as buyers have a certain amount of time after contract executed to do 
inspections and request repairs or bail on contract. Linoleum is a no go. This 
is a higher end house is a high end neighborhood. This pergo flooring thing 
would be the only remotely viable solution other than tile. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:37 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I put a tile floor in our kitchen, HARD hard work on your knees all day (and 
> yes there should have been cement backer-board under all that tile) so be 
> warned.  I think linoleum would be a better choice, slap that down and let 
> the new owners put down tile or whatever.
> 
> Talk to a lawyer about suing the bank that sold you that dump.
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

We put peel and stick hardwood patterned flooring in the bunkhouse at camp. Its 
been 4 or 5 years now and it still looks perfect. It was cheap and easy to 
install. I'd do it again for somewhere I wasn't going to live. 
Our house has original 1938 hardwood which has "character" so I'd never replace 
it...
-Curt

  From: Max Dillon via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Max Dillon <dillonm...@gmail.com>
 Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:37 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
   
I put a tile floor in our kitchen, HARD hard work on your knees all day (and 
yes there should have been cement backer-board under all that tile) so be 
warned.  I think linoleum would be a better choice, slap that down and let the 
new owners put down tile or whatever.

Talk to a lawyer about suing the bank that sold you that dump.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I don't see where it would be coming in as this wall is along a windowless area 
of the house. There is a Window on the front of the house 90 degrees to this 
wall that is about 3-4 feet away.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 11:29 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: 
> 
> IMO, this looks like damage from chronic, ongoing water intrusion, not from
> a brief period before windows and doors were installed.  Before you fix the
> current damage you need to be sure water is not getting in now.  Proper
> flashing and sealing around doors and windows is essential to prevent water
> intrusion.  Unfortunately it's hard to check flashing with the siding
> installed.
> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
>> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:08 PM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
>> 
>> Here are the photos of the rotting area and my temp fix
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

The area in question is maybe 4 feet long along that wall. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> When I bought my current house it had a chronic water leak in a half bath
> that seriously rotted the hardwood floor, subfloor, and joists.  That room
> was small, maybe 5x6 ft.  I removed the fixtures and ripped out the rotted
> wood.  It was so bad I could pull up chunks by hand and a flat pry bar was
> very handy for the rest.  I cut and installed new joists and new sub floor.
> I found it best to work from the top with the floor open.  Many things were
> easy standing in the dirt (before the sub flooring) that would have been
> difficult from below (e.g. joists and plumbing).  I used metal hangers where
> the joists met the perimeter timbers (huge old 12x12 stuff from the 1850s).
> This can be a DIY job if the area is small enough.  I had reasonable success
> with a chipboard subfloor called Advantech but the 4x8 sheets are heavy for
> one person.  In that half bath I used 3/4 PT plywood under cement board and
> vinyl (it is still a bathroom) but the Advantech in my 2005 addition (about
> 1000 sf) has done well.  IMO, no wood product will survive unless it's kept
> dry.
> Scott
> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From:  Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:05 PM
>> 
>> Well it would be a decent sized area I would need to replace because I
> would
>> open the floor up big enough for me to work in. I am not crawling back and
>> forth under the house. Yes I do not know why they used that crappy
> particle
>> board type crap. If it was not rotten then yes that would make it easier.
> The
>> wife thinks that doing the pergo flooring in that room only would look
> stupid.
>> I'm not sure if I agree or not.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> And replace the sill plate as needed.   Got a contractor friend who will
> inspect
>> the work and put it under his E & O Ins for a fee?   THat would shift the
> liability.
>> Or set up a C corp with your BIL or some such, hire the corp to do the
> work.
>> (You work for the corp.) Get estimates, bills and receipts form the corp.
> As
>> soon as the house is sold, dissolve the corp.
>>> 
>>> If that crap chipboard floor was not rotted, you could just jack up the
> joist,
>> put a sill inder like you did, make concrete piers to support a permanent
> Sill,
>> (beam) replace the sill plate and you'd be good.
>>> 
>>> Can you replace 2-4 tiles around the edge of the room with a contrasting
> tile
>> so you son't need to rip out all the tile?  But as someone (Mitch?) said,
> the tile
>> should have concrete backer board underneath.
>>> 
>>> I did a room with tile for 3' on 3 sides, then put carpet in the center.
> That
>> way there was no seam in the carpet.  I didn't want to sew a carpet seam.
 Mitch Haley via Mercedes  January 25,
 2017 at 8:05 PM Jack it up, replace rotted joists, set it level, rip
 out rotted subfloor and replace.
 Then put down proper underlayment and redo tiles.
 Sounds like fun, eh?
 
 Mitch.
 
 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors


and that is why I asked about leaking around the windows or somewhere.


Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
January 26, 2017 at 12:16 AM
I concur. Open construction gets wet easily, but it also dries easily.
Doesn't really want to rot, but will go silver. Rot means wet, and more
wet, on top of wet.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes

I concur.  Open construction gets wet easily, but it also dries easily.
Doesn't really want to rot, but will go silver.  Rot means wet, and more
wet, on top of wet.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes

IMO, this looks like damage from chronic, ongoing water intrusion, not from
a brief period before windows and doors were installed.  Before you fix the
current damage you need to be sure water is not getting in now.  Proper
flashing and sealing around doors and windows is essential to prevent water
intrusion.  Unfortunately it's hard to check flashing with the siding
installed.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:08 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors
> 
> Here are the photos of the rotting area and my temp fix



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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes

When I bought my current house it had a chronic water leak in a half bath
that seriously rotted the hardwood floor, subfloor, and joists.  That room
was small, maybe 5x6 ft.  I removed the fixtures and ripped out the rotted
wood.  It was so bad I could pull up chunks by hand and a flat pry bar was
very handy for the rest.  I cut and installed new joists and new sub floor.
I found it best to work from the top with the floor open.  Many things were
easy standing in the dirt (before the sub flooring) that would have been
difficult from below (e.g. joists and plumbing).  I used metal hangers where
the joists met the perimeter timbers (huge old 12x12 stuff from the 1850s).
This can be a DIY job if the area is small enough.  I had reasonable success
with a chipboard subfloor called Advantech but the 4x8 sheets are heavy for
one person.  In that half bath I used 3/4 PT plywood under cement board and
vinyl (it is still a bathroom) but the Advantech in my 2005 addition (about
1000 sf) has done well.  IMO, no wood product will survive unless it's kept
dry.
Scott

> -Original Message-
> From:  Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:05 PM
> 
> Well it would be a decent sized area I would need to replace because I
would
> open the floor up big enough for me to work in. I am not crawling back and
> forth under the house. Yes I do not know why they used that crappy
particle
> board type crap. If it was not rotten then yes that would make it easier.
The
> wife thinks that doing the pergo flooring in that room only would look
stupid.
> I'm not sure if I agree or not.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jan 25, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> >
> > And replace the sill plate as needed.   Got a contractor friend who will
inspect
> the work and put it under his E & O Ins for a fee?   THat would shift the
liability.
> Or set up a C corp with your BIL or some such, hire the corp to do the
work.
> (You work for the corp.) Get estimates, bills and receipts form the corp.
As
> soon as the house is sold, dissolve the corp.
> >
> > If that crap chipboard floor was not rotted, you could just jack up the
joist,
> put a sill inder like you did, make concrete piers to support a permanent
Sill,
> (beam) replace the sill plate and you'd be good.
> >
> > Can you replace 2-4 tiles around the edge of the room with a contrasting
tile
> so you son't need to rip out all the tile?  But as someone (Mitch?) said,
the tile
> should have concrete backer board underneath.
> >
> > I did a room with tile for 3' on 3 sides, then put carpet in the center.
That
> way there was no seam in the carpet.  I didn't want to sew a carpet seam.
> >> Mitch Haley via Mercedes  January 25,
> >> 2017 at 8:05 PM Jack it up, replace rotted joists, set it level, rip
> >> out rotted subfloor and replace.
> >> Then put down proper underlayment and redo tiles.
> >> Sounds like fun, eh?
> >>
> >> Mitch.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

It's possible I will check. There are currently no terminates but there were. 
The side that is in those photos is not even near a window thought.  I figure 
when it sat empty with no widows it rained in and water ran down all along that 
side wall. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 10:07 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> That crap chipboard is about all you can buy now.  15 yrs ago or so, it was 
> about the same price as plywood.  Plywood does not rot as fast, does not 
> swell as much in humidity, and does not become a torch in a fire.  If they'd 
> used 3/4" Doug fir plywood, your floor would probably be OK.
> 
> Question It seems like maybe water is still getting in and attracting 
> termites.  I'm betting water gets in around the windows and runs down behind 
> the siding.  Have you checked it out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>> January 25, 2017 at 9:05 PM
>> Well it would be a decent sized area I would need to replace because I would 
>> open the floor up big enough for me to work in. I am not crawling back and 
>> forth under the house. Yes I do not know why they used that crappy particle 
>> board type crap. If it was not rotten then yes that would make it easier. 
>> The wife thinks that doing the pergo flooring in that room only would look 
>> stupid. I'm not sure if I agree or not.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

That crap chipboard is about all you can buy now.  15 yrs ago or so, it 
was about the same price as plywood.  Plywood does not rot as fast, does 
not swell as much in humidity, and does not become a torch in a fire.  
If they'd used 3/4" Doug fir plywood, your floor would probably be OK.


Question It seems like maybe water is still getting in and 
attracting termites.  I'm betting water gets in around the windows and 
runs down behind the siding.  Have you checked it out?






Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
January 25, 2017 at 9:05 PM
Well it would be a decent sized area I would need to replace because I 
would open the floor up big enough for me to work in. I am not 
crawling back and forth under the house. Yes I do not know why they 
used that crappy particle board type crap. If it was not rotten then 
yes that would make it easier. The wife thinks that doing the pergo 
flooring in that room only would look stupid. I'm not sure if I agree 
or not.


Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread rogerhga--- via Mercedes

Kaleb, 
Just a suggestion...contact the "This Old House" gang and see if they'll come 
fix your house as a show project. I've seen them fix issues like yours on their 
shows. I had a front entry way section of a house done years ago (termite 
damage), but it was done by a professional. He did a great job and the repair 
wasn't really that obvious. 
Just a thought and you might end up on TV :-)) 
Good Luck and best wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com 


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread clay via Mercedes

They make a floating flooring that looks like tile or rock.  Might be ok.

Cut out the whole sheet of damaged and do it right.  Put the tile backer if you 
do go with tile.  Then use the tile that comes in sheets already stuck 
together.  

I hate particle board with a passion.  I see all manner of homes being built 
with it in PNW and imaging how rotted it will be in a short time, while the 
rains come down while it is being put up.  Million dollar homes using that junk 
for siding, not only floors.  I demanded marine ply from my contractor.  

clay


> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well it would be a decent sized area I would need to replace because I would 
> open the floor up big enough for me to work in. I am not crawling back and 
> forth under the house. Yes I do not know why they used that crappy particle 
> board type crap. If it was not rotten then yes that would make it easier. The 
> wife thinks that doing the pergo flooring in that room only would look 
> stupid. I'm not sure if I agree or not.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> And replace the sill plate as needed.   Got a contractor friend who will 
>> inspect the work and put it under his E & O Ins for a fee?   THat would 
>> shift the liability.   Or set up a C corp with your BIL or some such, hire 
>> the corp to do the work.  (You work for the corp.) Get estimates, bills and 
>> receipts form the corp.  As soon as the house is sold, dissolve the corp.
>> 
>> If that crap chipboard floor was not rotted, you could just jack up the 
>> joist, put a sill inder like you did, make concrete piers to support a 
>> permanent Sill, (beam) replace the sill plate and you'd be good.
>> 
>> Can you replace 2-4 tiles around the edge of the room with a contrasting 
>> tile so you son't need to rip out all the tile?  But as someone (Mitch?) 
>> said, the tile should have concrete backer board underneath.
>> 
>> I did a room with tile for 3' on 3 sides, then put carpet in the center.  
>> That way there was no seam in the carpet.  I didn't want to sew a carpet 
>> seam.
>>> Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>>> January 25, 2017 at 8:05 PM
>>> Jack it up, replace rotted joists, set it level, rip out rotted subfloor 
>>> and replace.
>>> Then put down proper underlayment and redo tiles.
>>> Sounds like fun, eh?
>>> 
>>> Mitch.
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes

Put a 240D badge on the front door, get Dimitri to drive down with his
welding kit and he will take care of everything so it's stronger than new.

On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 10:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Well it would be a decent sized area I would need to replace because I
> would open the floor up big enough for me to work in. I am not crawling
> back and forth under the house. Yes I do not know why they used that crappy
> particle board type crap. If it was not rotten then yes that would make it
> easier. The wife thinks that doing the pergo flooring in that room only
> would look stupid. I'm not sure if I agree or not.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jan 25, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > And replace the sill plate as needed.   Got a contractor friend who will
> inspect the work and put it under his E & O Ins for a fee?   THat would
> shift the liability.   Or set up a C corp with your BIL or some such, hire
> the corp to do the work.  (You work for the corp.) Get estimates, bills and
> receipts form the corp.  As soon as the house is sold, dissolve the corp.
> >
> > If that crap chipboard floor was not rotted, you could just jack up the
> joist, put a sill inder like you did, make concrete piers to support a
> permanent Sill, (beam) replace the sill plate and you'd be good.
> >
> > Can you replace 2-4 tiles around the edge of the room with a contrasting
> tile so you son't need to rip out all the tile?  But as someone (Mitch?)
> said, the tile should have concrete backer board underneath.
> >
> > I did a room with tile for 3' on 3 sides, then put carpet in the
> center.  That way there was no seam in the carpet.  I didn't want to sew a
> carpet seam.
> >> Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
> >> January 25, 2017 at 8:05 PM
> >> Jack it up, replace rotted joists, set it level, rip out rotted
> subfloor and replace.
> >> Then put down proper underlayment and redo tiles.
> >> Sounds like fun, eh?
> >>
> >> Mitch.
> >>
> >>
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Well it would be a decent sized area I would need to replace because I would 
open the floor up big enough for me to work in. I am not crawling back and 
forth under the house. Yes I do not know why they used that crappy particle 
board type crap. If it was not rotten then yes that would make it easier. The 
wife thinks that doing the pergo flooring in that room only would look stupid. 
I'm not sure if I agree or not.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> And replace the sill plate as needed.   Got a contractor friend who will 
> inspect the work and put it under his E & O Ins for a fee?   THat would shift 
> the liability.   Or set up a C corp with your BIL or some such, hire the corp 
> to do the work.  (You work for the corp.) Get estimates, bills and receipts 
> form the corp.  As soon as the house is sold, dissolve the corp.
> 
> If that crap chipboard floor was not rotted, you could just jack up the 
> joist, put a sill inder like you did, make concrete piers to support a 
> permanent Sill, (beam) replace the sill plate and you'd be good.
> 
> Can you replace 2-4 tiles around the edge of the room with a contrasting tile 
> so you son't need to rip out all the tile?  But as someone (Mitch?) said, the 
> tile should have concrete backer board underneath.
> 
> I did a room with tile for 3' on 3 sides, then put carpet in the center.  
> That way there was no seam in the carpet.  I didn't want to sew a carpet seam.
>> Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>> January 25, 2017 at 8:05 PM
>> Jack it up, replace rotted joists, set it level, rip out rotted subfloor and 
>> replace.
>> Then put down proper underlayment and redo tiles.
>> Sounds like fun, eh?
>> 
>> Mitch.
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

the pergo will go down a lot faster.   If you can find it on sale, it 
may be cheaper than tile.



Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
January 25, 2017 at 8:14 PM
See doesn't seem too hard to me.

Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

And replace the sill plate as needed.   Got a contractor friend who will 
inspect the work and put it under his E & O Ins for a fee?   THat would 
shift the liability.   Or set up a C corp with your BIL or some such, 
hire the corp to do the work.  (You work for the corp.) Get estimates, 
bills and receipts form the corp.  As soon as the house is sold, 
dissolve the corp.


If that crap chipboard floor was not rotted, you could just jack up the 
joist, put a sill inder like you did, make concrete piers to support a 
permanent Sill, (beam) replace the sill plate and you'd be good.


Can you replace 2-4 tiles around the edge of the room with a contrasting 
tile so you son't need to rip out all the tile?  But as someone (Mitch?) 
said, the tile should have concrete backer board underneath.


I did a room with tile for 3' on 3 sides, then put carpet in the 
center.  That way there was no seam in the carpet.  I didn't want to sew 
a carpet seam.

Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
January 25, 2017 at 8:05 PM
Jack it up, replace rotted joists, set it level, rip out rotted 
subfloor and replace.

Then put down proper underlayment and redo tiles.
Sounds like fun, eh?

Mitch.




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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

See doesn't seem too hard to me. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 8:05 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Jack it up, replace rotted joists, set it level, rip out rotted subfloor and 
> replace. 
> Then put down proper underlayment and redo tiles. 
> Sounds like fun, eh?
> 
> Mitch. 
> 
>> On January 25, 2017 at 8:02 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Now tell me how to fix my floor.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:58 PM, Dimitri via Mercedes  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I don't get inspections when I buy.  Waste of time and money and an 
>>> inspection contingency makes your offer less competitive in a hot market. 
>>> Also a lot of times, inspectors are less knowledgeable than I. If it has 
>>> structural issues I can see them and just budget that in. If electrical etc 
>>> is shoddy I again budget that in.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:44 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
  wrote:
 
 Probably too late to go after them, based on what the law says.  And shame 
 on Kaleb for buying a house without an inspection.  Even more so since his 
 wife was/is a realtor.
 
 In fairness, however, we bought our first house without an inspection and 
 in hindsight had we had it inspected we would never have bought it.  Hard 
 lesson to learn but one we never ignored again.  If the market hadn’t been 
 crazy when we sold and me having had the ability to do all the repairs we 
 would have been in a real pickle.
 
 -D
 
 
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:38 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was wondering if the bank and or their contractor is liable.Where's 
> Snook?
> 
>> Craig via Mercedes 
>> January 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM
>> On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>> 
>> Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
>> 
>> Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
> 
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>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes

Jack it up, replace rotted joists, set it level, rip out rotted subfloor and 
replace. 
Then put down proper underlayment and redo tiles. 
Sounds like fun, eh?

Mitch. 

> On January 25, 2017 at 8:02 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Now tell me how to fix my floor.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:58 PM, Dimitri via Mercedes  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > I don't get inspections when I buy.  Waste of time and money and an 
> > inspection contingency makes your offer less competitive in a hot market. 
> > Also a lot of times, inspectors are less knowledgeable than I. If it has 
> > structural issues I can see them and just budget that in. If electrical etc 
> > is shoddy I again budget that in.
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > 
> >> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:44 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
> >>  wrote:
> >> 
> >> Probably too late to go after them, based on what the law says.  And shame 
> >> on Kaleb for buying a house without an inspection.  Even more so since his 
> >> wife was/is a realtor.
> >> 
> >> In fairness, however, we bought our first house without an inspection and 
> >> in hindsight had we had it inspected we would never have bought it.  Hard 
> >> lesson to learn but one we never ignored again.  If the market hadn’t been 
> >> crazy when we sold and me having had the ability to do all the repairs we 
> >> would have been in a real pickle.
> >> 
> >> -D
> >> 
> >> 
> >>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:38 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
> >>>  wrote:
> >>> 
> >>> I was wondering if the bank and or their contractor is liable.Where's 
> >>> Snook?
> >>> 
>  Craig via Mercedes 
>  January 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM
>  On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>  
>  Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
>  
>  Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
>  
>  
>  Craig
> >>> 
> >>> ___
> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>> 
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> >>> 
> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >> 
> >> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes

Get a crane, pick up house, replace rotten wood.

Or maybe that guy the Rich mentioned, Spanish fellow, Fuego something?  He 
could probably fix you right up.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On January 25, 2017 8:02:36 PM EST, "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" 
 wrote:
>Now tell me how to fix my floor.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:58 PM, Dimitri via Mercedes
> wrote:
>> 
>> I don't get inspections when I buy.  Waste of time and money and an
>inspection contingency makes your offer less competitive in a hot
>market. Also a lot of times, inspectors are less knowledgeable than I.
>If it has structural issues I can see them and just budget that in. If
>electrical etc is shoddy I again budget that in.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:44 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Probably too late to go after them, based on what the law says.  And
>shame on Kaleb for buying a house without an inspection.  Even more so
>since his wife was/is a realtor.
>>> 
>>> In fairness, however, we bought our first house without an
>inspection and in hindsight had we had it inspected we would never have
>bought it.  Hard lesson to learn but one we never ignored again.  If
>the market hadn’t been crazy when we sold and me having had the ability
>to do all the repairs we would have been in a real pickle.
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
>>> 
 On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:38 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes
> wrote:
 
 I was wondering if the bank and or their contractor is liable.   
>Where's Snook?
 
> Craig via Mercedes 
> January 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM
> On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> 
> Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
> 
> Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
> 
> 
> Craig
 
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>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Now tell me how to fix my floor.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:58 PM, Dimitri via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I don't get inspections when I buy.  Waste of time and money and an 
> inspection contingency makes your offer less competitive in a hot market. 
> Also a lot of times, inspectors are less knowledgeable than I. If it has 
> structural issues I can see them and just budget that in. If electrical etc 
> is shoddy I again budget that in.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:44 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Probably too late to go after them, based on what the law says.  And shame 
>> on Kaleb for buying a house without an inspection.  Even more so since his 
>> wife was/is a realtor.
>> 
>> In fairness, however, we bought our first house without an inspection and in 
>> hindsight had we had it inspected we would never have bought it.  Hard 
>> lesson to learn but one we never ignored again.  If the market hadn’t been 
>> crazy when we sold and me having had the ability to do all the repairs we 
>> would have been in a real pickle.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:38 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I was wondering if the bank and or their contractor is liable.Where's 
>>> Snook?
>>> 
 Craig via Mercedes 
 January 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM
 On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
 
 Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
 
 Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
 
 
 Craig
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> 
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>>> 
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>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes

I don't get inspections when I buy.  Waste of time and money and an inspection 
contingency makes your offer less competitive in a hot market. Also a lot of 
times, inspectors are less knowledgeable than I. If it has structural issues I 
can see them and just budget that in. If electrical etc is shoddy I again 
budget that in.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:44 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Probably too late to go after them, based on what the law says.  And shame on 
> Kaleb for buying a house without an inspection.  Even more so since his wife 
> was/is a realtor.
> 
> In fairness, however, we bought our first house without an inspection and in 
> hindsight had we had it inspected we would never have bought it.  Hard lesson 
> to learn but one we never ignored again.  If the market hadn’t been crazy 
> when we sold and me having had the ability to do all the repairs we would 
> have been in a real pickle.
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:38 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I was wondering if the bank and or their contractor is liable.Where's 
>> Snook?
>> 
>>> Craig via Mercedes 
>>> January 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM
>>> On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>>> 
>>> Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
>>> 
>>> Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Craig
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Well we were young and dumb then and I don't think our realtor even mentioned 
it. Wife became a realtor after this. The house we bought a couple of years ago 
I did not pay for an inspector other than a termite inspection. I did my own 
inspections. Afterward I have found a few things here and there I missed but 
probably would not have made any difference anyway. Yes I probably should have 
paid the $5-600 to get a full blown inspection. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:44 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Probably too late to go after them, based on what the law says.  And shame on 
> Kaleb for buying a house without an inspection.  Even more so since his wife 
> was/is a realtor.
> 
> In fairness, however, we bought our first house without an inspection and in 
> hindsight had we had it inspected we would never have bought it.  Hard lesson 
> to learn but one we never ignored again.  If the market hadn’t been crazy 
> when we sold and me having had the ability to do all the repairs we would 
> have been in a real pickle.
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:38 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I was wondering if the bank and or their contractor is liable.Where's 
>> Snook?
>> 
>>> Craig via Mercedes 
>>> January 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM
>>> On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>>> 
>>> Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
>>> 
>>> Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Craig
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

All of this is disclosed on the disclosure form with the listing actually. 
Basically the way it works here is any defects or damage that are known must be 
disclosed on the disclosure form that all realtors can access currently. If 
somebody makes an offer they put x amount of dollars for repairs. We then 
either accept that amount for repairs or not. If contract is accepted buyer has 
10 days to do inspections if they do choose. If inspections turns up anything 
buyers submit a request for repairs. Seller then repairs or gets quotes and if 
repairs are up to repair amount in contract seller must repair. If repairs 
exceed this amount the seller can go ahead and pay the overage, buyer can pay 
the overage, or buyer can bail and get their earnest money back. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:38 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I agree with most of what you say, however, when you’re talking about a house 
> and the potential liability of an improper repair that could come back and 
> bite you (if not discovered prior to the sale) it’s cheaper in my mind to 
> shift the liability to someone else.
> 
> And, if you don’t disclose it at the time of sale and an inspection reveals 
> it, you may have a big (legal) problem on your hands.  Your wife is a realtor 
> or held a realtor’s license.  She should know all about disclosure and the 
> risks involved.
> 
> Taken directly from Oklahoma Title 60, O.S. Section 831 et seq.:
> 
> Definition:  “Defect” means a condition, malfunction or problem that would 
> have a materially adverse effect on the monetary value of the property, or 
> that would impair the health or safety of future occupants of the property; 
> 
> And;
> 
> Section 837. Remedies:  “The sole and exclusive civil remedy at common law or 
> otherwise for a failure under subsection a of this section by the seller or 
> the real estate licensee shall be an action for actual damages, including the 
> cost of repairing the defect suffered by the purchaser as a result of a 
> defect existing in the property as of the date of acceptance by the seller of 
> an offer to purchase and shall not include the remedy of exemplary damages.
> 
> c. any action brought under this act shall be commenced within two (2) years 
> after the date of transfer of real property subject to this act.
> 
> d. in any civil action brought under this act, the prevailing party shall be 
> allowed court costs and a reasonable attorney fee to be set by the court and 
> to be collected as costs.”
> 
> So if you half-ass it and the buyers find out, they have two years to come 
> after you.  You’ll pay all of their litigation costs when the dust settles, 
> too.
> 
> I’m just sayin'….
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> No I did not. I was naive at the time and we were pretty much steered toward 
>> that house by our realtor. This realtors coworker at the same real estate 
>> office was the listing agent and her uncle was the bank president who owned 
>> it. So we were pretty much funneled to it. Whatever. I still don't think 
>> this can be that complicated of a repair. If I took the advice of leaving 
>> things up to the pros I wouldn't do half the jobs I have on cars or 
>> otherwise. Hell I tackled major home wiring after a short education from 
>> Curley.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:23 PM, Craig via Mercedes  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
 Man, I hate to say this, but I would leave this to a professional since
 it’s a structural issue.  If you get a home inspector in there for a
 potential buyer and they find repairs that are structural in nature
 that haven’t been done properly, they’re going to bolt and in a big
 hurry.  Then you have it on record that there are structural issues.
 Makes it all the more difficult to market/sell.
 
 What’s the alternative?  “Fixer-upper?"
>>> 
>>> Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
>>> 
>>> Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Craig
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> 
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>>> 
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>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

Well the problem is that bank is out of business. That is on the buyer anyway 
as buyers have a certain amount of time after contract executed to do 
inspections and request repairs or bail on contract. Linoleum is a no go. This 
is a higher end house is a high end neighborhood. This pergo flooring thing 
would be the only remotely viable solution other than tile. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:37 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I put a tile floor in our kitchen, HARD hard work on your knees all day (and 
> yes there should have been cement backer-board under all that tile) so be 
> warned.  I think linoleum would be a better choice, slap that down and let 
> the new owners put down tile or whatever.
> 
> Talk to a lawyer about suing the bank that sold you that dump.
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes

Probably too late to go after them, based on what the law says.  And shame on 
Kaleb for buying a house without an inspection.  Even more so since his wife 
was/is a realtor.

In fairness, however, we bought our first house without an inspection and in 
hindsight had we had it inspected we would never have bought it.  Hard lesson 
to learn but one we never ignored again.  If the market hadn’t been crazy when 
we sold and me having had the ability to do all the repairs we would have been 
in a real pickle.

-D

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:38 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was wondering if the bank and or their contractor is liable.Where's 
> Snook?
> 
>> Craig via Mercedes 
>> January 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM
>> On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>> 
>> Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
>> 
>> Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
> 
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> 
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> 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes

I agree with most of what you say, however, when you’re talking about a house 
and the potential liability of an improper repair that could come back and bite 
you (if not discovered prior to the sale) it’s cheaper in my mind to shift the 
liability to someone else.

And, if you don’t disclose it at the time of sale and an inspection reveals it, 
you may have a big (legal) problem on your hands.  Your wife is a realtor or 
held a realtor’s license.  She should know all about disclosure and the risks 
involved.

Taken directly from Oklahoma Title 60, O.S. Section 831 et seq.:

Definition:  “Defect” means a condition, malfunction or problem that would have 
a materially adverse effect on the monetary value of the property, or that 
would impair the health or safety of future occupants of the property; 

And;

Section 837. Remedies:  “The sole and exclusive civil remedy at common law or 
otherwise for a failure under subsection a of this section by the seller or the 
real estate licensee shall be an action for actual damages, including the cost 
of repairing the defect suffered by the purchaser as a result of a defect 
existing in the property as of the date of acceptance by the seller of an offer 
to purchase and shall not include the remedy of exemplary damages.

c. any action brought under this act shall be commenced within two (2) years 
after the date of transfer of real property subject to this act.

d. in any civil action brought under this act, the prevailing party shall be 
allowed court costs and a reasonable attorney fee to be set by the court and to 
be collected as costs.”

So if you half-ass it and the buyers find out, they have two years to come 
after you.  You’ll pay all of their litigation costs when the dust settles, too.

I’m just sayin'….

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> No I did not. I was naive at the time and we were pretty much steered toward 
> that house by our realtor. This realtors coworker at the same real estate 
> office was the listing agent and her uncle was the bank president who owned 
> it. So we were pretty much funneled to it. Whatever. I still don't think this 
> can be that complicated of a repair. If I took the advice of leaving things 
> up to the pros I wouldn't do half the jobs I have on cars or otherwise. Hell 
> I tackled major home wiring after a short education from Curley.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:23 PM, Craig via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Man, I hate to say this, but I would leave this to a professional since
>>> it’s a structural issue.  If you get a home inspector in there for a
>>> potential buyer and they find repairs that are structural in nature
>>> that haven’t been done properly, they’re going to bolt and in a big
>>> hurry.  Then you have it on record that there are structural issues.
>>> Makes it all the more difficult to market/sell.
>>> 
>>> What’s the alternative?  “Fixer-upper?"
>> 
>> Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
>> 
>> Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

I was wondering if the bank and or their contractor is liable.
Where's Snook?



Craig via Mercedes 
January 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM
On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes

Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?

Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes

I put a tile floor in our kitchen, HARD hard work on your knees all day (and 
yes there should have been cement backer-board under all that tile) so be 
warned.  I think linoleum would be a better choice, slap that down and let the 
new owners put down tile or whatever.

Talk to a lawyer about suing the bank that sold you that dump.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

No I did not. I was naive at the time and we were pretty much steered toward 
that house by our realtor. This realtors coworker at the same real estate 
office was the listing agent and her uncle was the bank president who owned it. 
So we were pretty much funneled to it. Whatever. I still don't think this can 
be that complicated of a repair. If I took the advice of leaving things up to 
the pros I wouldn't do half the jobs I have on cars or otherwise. Hell I 
tackled major home wiring after a short education from Curley.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:23 PM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> Man, I hate to say this, but I would leave this to a professional since
>> it’s a structural issue.  If you get a home inspector in there for a
>> potential buyer and they find repairs that are structural in nature
>> that haven’t been done properly, they’re going to bolt and in a big
>> hurry.  Then you have it on record that there are structural issues.
>> Makes it all the more difficult to market/sell.
>> 
>> What’s the alternative?  “Fixer-upper?"
> 
> Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?
> 
> Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Craig via Mercedes

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:16:38 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Man, I hate to say this, but I would leave this to a professional since
> it’s a structural issue.  If you get a home inspector in there for a
> potential buyer and they find repairs that are structural in nature
> that haven’t been done properly, they’re going to bolt and in a big
> hurry.  Then you have it on record that there are structural issues.
> Makes it all the more difficult to market/sell.
> 
> What’s the alternative?  “Fixer-upper?"

Is not the one who sold to Kaleb liable for deception?

Did he have an inspector look at the house before he bought it?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fixing floors

2017-01-25 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes

Man, I hate to say this, but I would leave this to a professional since it’s a 
structural issue.  If you get a home inspector in there for a potential buyer 
and they find repairs that are structural in nature that haven’t been done 
properly, they’re going to bolt and in a big hurry.  Then you have it on record 
that there are structural issues.  Makes it all the more difficult to 
market/sell.

What’s the alternative?  “Fixer-upper?"

Just my $0.02.





> On Jan 25, 2017, at 7:07 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here are the photos of the rotting area and my temp fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2017, at 6:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> So this involves the rent house from hell that has been empty for over 3 
>> months now trying to get it rented or sold.  This house was built in 2002 
>> but the builder was foreclosed on.  House sat without any windows or doors 
>> for probably a year or 2 until the bank came in and finished it, and it was 
>> then sold to us as new contruction, although we were unaware of all this at 
>> the time of purchase.  About 5 years ago the dog was walking out the front 
>> door and his leg literally broke thru a ceramic tile at the front door.  I 
>> then discovered lots of wood rot in this area by the front door and also 
>> termites.  We had the termites taken care of and there are none now but a 
>> lot of the wood rot was not termites but rather wood rot from it being wet 
>> from when no doors or windows were on the house.  There was part of the 
>> plywood rotted, and the header plate or whatever you call it was rotted out 
>> as well directly under the front door.  This plate runs parallel to the 
>> floor joists. I had a buddy of mine come in and cut out a section of the 
>> flooring after pulling up the ceramic tile in the entry, cut out that 
>> section of the header board and installed a new piece, then replaced the 
>> plywood and we put new tile in the entry area.  There is currently some wood 
>> rot of various degrees all along the front of the house in this header plate 
>> mainly under where the windows are but this was the worse area at the time.  
>> So after the renters moved out I discovered the corner of the floor in the 
>> kitchen dining area is sagging starting in corner next to where the window 
>> is, and extends along the wall running a 90 degree angle from the front of 
>> the house.  So I get under and discover a significant amount of wood rot in 
>> that corner. Basically the header plate is completely rotted out.  The 
>> difference this time is the floor joist mount to this plate so they are 
>> basically not supported and the floor is sagging.  As a temp fix I jacked up 
>> the floor and added supports just back from the stem wall to take the 
>> pressure off of the failing header plate.  We have had a few showings of the 
>> house for both renters or potential buyers and nobody has said anything 
>> about the floor but we did have a couple look at it yesterday and mentioned 
>> the floor as it still has a little bit of sag in that corner, but mainly is 
>> noticable because a small piece of tile in the corner is broke off and 
>> dropped down a bit because that small area has no support as the plywood 
>> under the tile is rotted as well.  We have disclosed to realtors who are 
>> showing the house to their clients of this issue and they can put in any 
>> offer for it to be repaired and we would repair it at closing, which is 
>> common.  I am now thinking I need to just go ahead and repair it.  We got a 
>> quote a while back but quite frankly with this house sitting empty funds are 
>> not available to pay a contractor.  Otherwise I probably would.
>> 
>> 
>> So this can't be rocket science and I don't think its anymore complicated 
>> than many of the repairs I have done on vehicles, it is just I work on cars 
>> and have not gotten into major wood work before. So I am thinking what I 
>> need to do is pull the tile up, cut out a section of the flooring and can 
>> work from inside the house instead of crawling back and forth under the 
>> house.  I would need to sawsall off the ends of the floor joists, then start 
>> removing that header plate, cut to fit a new section and jam it into place, 
>> then sister in new floor joist sections to connect back to the header plate. 
>>  One of the big problems though is the ceramic tile.  While it appears it 
>> would be a common color that could be matched, we found we could not when we 
>> did the entry hall.  This tile is in this kitchen eating area, the kitchen, 
>> and the adjoining formal dining room.  So we would either have to do 
>> something with a different color of tile that appears to sort of separate 
>> off this area from the kitchen and formal dining, or ALL the tile will have 
>> to be replaced, and it is a LOT of tile.  I had also thought about replacing

[MBZ] Fixing floors