Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-09 Thread rmcmail
HA! And they charged me something like $275 for a new controller because mine 
was worn out. + Labor of course.
Les
Boston

-Original Message-
From: Marshall Booth [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2006 05:10 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 
 Hmm. More of an intermittent surgey thing. And it only happens when I
 haven't used the cruise for a while, which suggests to me a mechanical
 problem (something taking a while to loosen up and operate smoothly after a
 period of dormancy)... which is why I suspected the actuator.
 
 I certainly hope the amp is the right one! GDL did ask for my VIN when I
 called them, so that they could make sure they were giving me a rebuilt unit
 appropriate to my car.


The accelerator linkage ball and socket joints were supposed to be 
cleaned/lubed every 15/30kmi and when they start to bind the the cruise 
control may jerk or even cut out. When the contacts on the actuator 
wear, you may have problems often related to one speed.

When everything is PERFECT (just as delivered from the factory) most 
124.133/193 cruise controls surge - especially when climbing a hill. 
This was a flaw and Mercedes had a fix for it (that some have said robs 
the engine of power). The surge was cured in my 124.193 by adjusting 
the ALDA out (counterclockwise) about 1 1/2 turns to improve low end 
acceleration. Following that, the surge was completely gone.

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-08 Thread Jim Cathey
buying a rebuilt amp from them and now everything's fine except for a 
little

variation in set speed on inclines, which I suspect is the fault of the
actuator---I'll replace it the next time I have the intake manifold 
off.


The amplifiers are full of resistors that are supposed to be
tuned to the particular model of car, is it possible that yours
is a slight mismatch?  Is your variation an intermittent surgey
thing, or does it just drop below speed more than it should?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-08 Thread Bob Rentfro
I believe on the '81 300D I had the reverse lights were part og the CC 
circuit.


Bob Rentfro


- Original Message - 
From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting



Some cars require a
specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether
or not yours does is beyond me.

I forgot about that...yes, check the brake lights.

More on that (and other stuff to) here:

http://gdl-online.com/begin1.html

Chris



John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On May 7, 2006, at 11:59 AM, Sunil Hari wrote:


 First, fuses have all
just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small
square
reading light don't work.


Start at the fuse box again (just in case). Then find the ground
clusters and connectors for amp, switch, actuator, speed sensor and
brake lights. Check/clean all connections. Some cars require a
specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether
or not yours does is beyond me.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 152K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 213K, Wulf
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger

Mercedes diesel - performance measured by odometer.

-
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Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-08 Thread Peter Frederick
All of the electronic control (vs the vacuum type used earlier) ground 
through the stop lamp bulbs.  Sounds kinda nuts, but what happens is 
that when the lamps light up, there is suddenly 12V on the ground side, 
and the amplifier drops off line.  If you don't have good, or matched, 
lamps, you can have problems with the CC amplifier.  Usually it just 
won't set, but sometimes it's erratic -- won't hold speed, etc.


On the Volvo, mismatched bulbs, even if brand new, will cause the lamp 
out warning light to come on.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting/Brake Lamp wattage

2006-05-08 Thread JFreezn
In a message dated 5/7/2006 7:37:14 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

All of  the electronic control (vs the vacuum type used earlier) ground 
through  the stop lamp bulbs.  Sounds kinda nuts, but what happens is 
that  when the lamps light up, there is suddenly 12V on the ground side, 
and the  amplifier drops off line.  If you don't have good, or matched, 
lamps,  you can have problems with the CC amplifier.  Usually it just 
won't  set, but sometimes it's erratic -- won't hold speed, etc.
 
Listers,
 
Per the above comment, I think all of the 10 pin Amps, from 76 through 80,  
and the 14 pin amps, used since 81, use the brake light voltage to turn off  
the cruise control, if it has been actuated.



The factory specified bulb was the OSRAM at 21 watts.  But  now OSRAM has 
merged with Sylvania and both of them, as well as GE,  have 21 watt bulbs 
available.  I have heard, both pro and conn, that  the bulb wattage is/ is not 
critical.  More important is that the  taillight assemblies have a clean 
ground.  
Since most of the fixture is  plastic, the bulbs depend on a wired ground 
circuit, included in the multipin  socket.  The brown wire is usually ground in 
a 
Mercedes.  
 
Unplugging and replugging the connecter will often be enough to burnish the  
contacts to full continuity again.  
 
COMMERCIAL NOTE:  GDL has a great disparity between what they will pay  for 
an amplifier core, and what they charge for a core, if yours is not  
acceptable.  I have several virgin amps that could be used for core trade  ins, 
or maybe 
they will even work!!  If you have buggered yours up trying  to solder it, 
this may be a way to save some money. $30 shipped priority  mail for any amp I 
have in my parts box.  The dates range from 77 to 87 and  I have at least one 
that is designated for stick shifts  I think it is  dated 4/82.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting/Brake Lamp wattage

2006-05-08 Thread Jim Cathey

All of  the electronic control (vs the vacuum type used earlier) ground
through  the stop lamp bulbs.  Sounds kinda nuts, but what happens is


The vacuum ones (VDO at least, can't speak for the Philco/Ford units
of 1975) also use the brake lamps as a virtual ground.


I have heard, both pro and con, that  the bulb wattage is/ is not
critical.


Having spent a lot of time with the vacuum circuit, the wattage of
the lamps is absolutely non-critical.  The relay that holds power
to the amplifier has its coil grounded through the brake lamps,
that is all.  Even a dinky instrument cluster lamp would probably
sink enough current to keep the relay on.  I've not spent much time
on the servomotor amps, so I can't really speak for them.  (Yet.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-08 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On 5/7/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 buying a rebuilt amp from them and now everything's fine except for a
 little
 variation in set speed on inclines, which I suspect is the fault of the
 actuator---I'll replace it the next time I have the intake manifold
 off.

The amplifiers are full of resistors that are supposed to be
tuned to the particular model of car, is it possible that yours
is a slight mismatch?  Is your variation an intermittent surgey
thing, or does it just drop below speed more than it should?




Hmm.  More of an intermittent surgey thing.  And it only happens when I
haven't used the cruise for a while, which suggests to me a mechanical
problem (something taking a while to loosen up and operate smoothly after a
period of dormancy)... which is why I suspected the actuator.

I certainly hope the amp is the right one!  GDL did ask for my VIN when I
called them, so that they could make sure they were giving me a rebuilt unit
appropriate to my car.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper


Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-08 Thread Marshall Booth

Alex Chamberlain wrote:



Hmm.  More of an intermittent surgey thing.  And it only happens when I
haven't used the cruise for a while, which suggests to me a mechanical
problem (something taking a while to loosen up and operate smoothly after a
period of dormancy)... which is why I suspected the actuator.

I certainly hope the amp is the right one!  GDL did ask for my VIN when I
called them, so that they could make sure they were giving me a rebuilt unit
appropriate to my car.



The accelerator linkage ball and socket joints were supposed to be 
cleaned/lubed every 15/30kmi and when they start to bind the the cruise 
control may jerk or even cut out. When the contacts on the actuator 
wear, you may have problems often related to one speed.


When everything is PERFECT (just as delivered from the factory) most 
124.133/193 cruise controls surge - especially when climbing a hill. 
This was a flaw and Mercedes had a fix for it (that some have said robs 
the engine of power). The surge was cured in my 124.193 by adjusting 
the ALDA out (counterclockwise) about 1 1/2 turns to improve low end 
acceleration. Following that, the surge was completely gone.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-07 Thread Christopher McCann
Start with the linkages to the acuator...are they all attached, smooth (very) 
and lubed?
 
 Is the actuator splugged in? Are the contacts clean? (De-oxit for this)
 
 Chris

Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On my 92 300D, the cruise control has 
stopped working.  One day, perfect -
next, nothing.  Where do I start troubleshooting?  First, fuses have all
just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small square
reading light don't work.

--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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-1987 300TD, 152K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 213K, Wulf
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger

Mercedes diesel - performance measured by odometer.

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting
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 On my 92 300D, the cruise control has stopped working.  One day, 
 perfect -
 next, nothing.  Where do I start troubleshooting?  First, fuses have 
 all
 just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small 
 square
 reading light don't work.

These don't share a fuse, because the cruise doesn't get power
with the key off.  If there are no obvious problems, it could be
that the solder joints inside the amplifier have finally let go.
That's what I find wrong with them, time and time again.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Sunil Hari wrote:

On my 92 300D, the cruise control has stopped working.  One day, perfect -
next, nothing.  Where do I start troubleshooting?  First, fuses have all
just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small square
reading light don't work.


Cruise control failures are often intermittent - works fine one day - 
not the next - works for 5 minutes - then not for an hour - then back 
on. Those failures are almost always because of poor solder connections.


Maybe half (or more) of the cruise control amplifier failures are due to 
the solder joint problems and perhaps somewhat fewer from capacitor 
problems. The actuator CAN fail and few DIYers have repaired them so 
they work reliably. A few failures result from the Hall effect sensor on 
the speedometer failing. You can test most everything except the amplifier.


The Mercedes test rig tested everything (power, switches, sensor, etc.) 
except the amp and if everything else was okay, the amp was presumed to 
be bad.


Start by cleaning the contacts of the pins on the actuator plug (in the 
engine compartment) and the pins on the amplifier connector. If that 
doesn't cure the problem, then you can try resoldering the amp. There is 
a test for the actuator by Doug Quance that appeared on another list.



Here is my test procedure for the speed sensor and actuator.

I tested the hall effect sensor by placing an analog voltmeter across
its input to
the cruise amp and slowly moving the car.  As I recall I saw a voltage
fluctuation
of about 2 to 8 volts.  THis gave me some confidence it was working.
On someone else's test procedure a resistance value for the sensor was
given.
I found this to be inaccurate, and I dont recall what mine read.
You could also put the one wheel up on blocks and slowly drive the car
to move 
the speedo cable and check out the sensor.



The actuator I tested as follows:

The resistance of the release clutch solenoid between pins 6 and 7 
I measured to be:

1.3K forward biased, and infinity reverse biased.  Your measurements may
vary, it should read about 35 ohms forward biased.  The discrepancy is
due to my meter not having enough power to forward bias the diode.  If
you were to apply 12v and insert a current meter it should read about
320 - 325 milli amps.

The feed back pot was measured at 3K ohms, thats from pin 1 to 3. 
The resistance between 1  3 should be = 1  2  plus 2  3.


The motor measured about .25 ohms.

These were static measurements that may or may not identify a problem.
I felt a dynamic test would be more accurate.

I tested the actuator by simulating the power thats applied to it by the
CCamp.  THis must be done very carefully!!!  I have some spare MB female
pin connectors with about 6  leads.  These I placed on the plug from
the actuator.  
I placed an ohm meter across the feedback pot contacts(alternating
between the 3 connections).  Before powering the clutch move the 
connecting rod to the accelerator to a mid point.  Then connect the

proper polarity of voltage from the battery to the clutch(you should
hear an audible clunk). 
Give the servo motor a few momentary connections of power(12v).  
Reverse the polarity of the motor connections and again supply momentary

power.

I did leave the power on too long when the servo was moving to
full throttle and the clutch released, I believe there are some internal
limit switchs.
You should see the accelerator linkage move and the resistance
on the feedback pot change.  After several movements this way I felt
confident the actuator was functioning properly. 
Good luck and let me know how you make out.


-- SANTÉ Doug Quance


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-07 Thread John M McIntosh


On 7-May-06, at 10:20 AM, Marshall Booth wrote:

The Mercedes test rig tested everything (power, switches, sensor,  
etc.)
except the amp and if everything else was okay, the amp was  
presumed to

be bad


Actually I got back from the dealer with a fixed cruise control  
system on my 90's 300TDt.


The test rig first tag the cruise control amp as bad, but a new one  
did not work.


After many hours of labour (of which I was billed none of) they  
discovered the Hall effect sensor was
faulty even tho their test rig insisted it was ok, actually it  
insisted everything was ok.
Fortunately they had a 92ish 300E in the back lot to swap parts  
between to resolve this issue,

I assure you they were very befuddled why their test rig lied to them...

My dryly rendered comment was: What, you trust computers?


In reading the testing comments I can only assume static testing of  
the hall effect sensor said it was ok, but

when actually running it was faulty.

John
1983 300TDt  364k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  166k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 174k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)





Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-07 Thread John Berryman


On May 7, 2006, at 11:59 AM, Sunil Hari wrote:


 First, fuses have all
just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small  
square

reading light don't work.


	Start at the fuse box again (just in case). Then find the ground  
clusters and connectors for amp, switch, actuator, speed sensor and  
brake lights. Check/clean all connections. Some cars require a  
specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether  
or not yours does is beyond me.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-07 Thread Christopher McCann

Some cars require a  
specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether  
or not yours does is beyond me.

I forgot about that...yes, check the brake lights.

More on that (and other stuff to) here:

http://gdl-online.com/begin1.html

Chris

 

John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
On May 7, 2006, at 11:59 AM, Sunil Hari wrote:

  First, fuses have all
 just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small  
 square
 reading light don't work.

 Start at the fuse box again (just in case). Then find the ground  
clusters and connectors for amp, switch, actuator, speed sensor and  
brake lights. Check/clean all connections. Some cars require a  
specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether  
or not yours does is beyond me.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 152K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 213K, Wulf
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger

Mercedes diesel - performance measured by odometer.

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bad car names
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Ed Booher wrote:
 Bad car names? Come on guys, you aren't even scratching the surface.
 (I think the real reason Germans use numbers are for the very
 translations reasons names bring.)
   

Honda's about to start selling a new subcompact hatchback called the 
Honda Fit.




Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-07 Thread Sunil Hari

Chris, yours was probably the most useful suggestion - I was driving it
yesterday and had the lights light come on the dash.  Replaced both brake
lights today, I'll give it a spin later and find out if that cured it.  If
not ... more work.

On 5/7/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Some cars require a
specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether
or not yours does is beyond me.

I forgot about that...yes, check the brake lights.

More on that (and other stuff to) here:

http://gdl-online.com/begin1.html

Chris



John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On May 7, 2006, at 11:59 AM, Sunil Hari wrote:

  First, fuses have all
 just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small
 square
 reading light don't work.

Start at the fuse box again (just in case). Then find the ground
clusters and connectors for amp, switch, actuator, speed sensor and
brake lights. Check/clean all connections. Some cars require a
specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether
or not yours does is beyond me.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 152K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 213K, Wulf
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger

Mercedes diesel - performance measured by odometer.

-
Get amazing travel prices for air and hotel in one click on Yahoo!
FareChase
___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-07 Thread Christopher McCann
the brake ligts are part of the circuit, at least in my SD, because as we all 
know, you hit the breaks and the cruise stops. This is explained in more detail 
on the GDL website.
 
 Chris
 
 

Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris, yours was probably the most useful 
suggestion - I was driving it
yesterday and had the lights light come on the dash.  Replaced both brake
lights today, I'll give it a spin later and find out if that cured it.  If
not ... more work.

On 5/7/06, Christopher McCann  wrote:


 Some cars require a
 specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether
 or not yours does is beyond me.

 I forgot about that...yes, check the brake lights.

 More on that (and other stuff to) here:

 http://gdl-online.com/begin1.html

 Chris



 John Berryman  wrote:
 On May 7, 2006, at 11:59 AM, Sunil Hari wrote:

   First, fuses have all
  just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small
  square
  reading light don't work.

 Start at the fuse box again (just in case). Then find the ground
 clusters and connectors for amp, switch, actuator, speed sensor and
 brake lights. Check/clean all connections. Some cars require a
 specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether
 or not yours does is beyond me.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

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 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -1987 300TD, 152K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 213K, Wulf
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger

 Mercedes diesel - performance measured by odometer.

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 152K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 213K, Wulf
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger

Mercedes diesel - performance measured by odometer.

-
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replace the cruise amp, replace the bulb

Sunil Hari wrote:
 On my 92 300D, the cruise control has stopped working.  One day, perfect -
 next, nothing.  Where do I start troubleshooting?  First, fuses have all
 just been replaced.  Second, the rear overhead light and the small square
 reading light don't work.
 
 --
 Sunil Hari
 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] 300D cruise control troubleshooting

2006-05-07 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On 5/7/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


the brake ligts are part of the circuit, at least in my SD, because as we
all know, you hit the breaks and the cruise stops. This is explained in more
detail on the GDL website.

Chris


Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris, yours was probably the most
useful suggestion - I was driving it
yesterday and had the lights light come on the dash.  Replaced both
brake
lights today, I'll give it a spin later and find out if that cured it.  If
not ... more work.

On 5/7/06, Christopher McCann  wrote:


 Some cars require a
 specific brake light bulb for the proper function of the CC, whether
 or not yours does is beyond me.

 I forgot about that...yes, check the brake lights.

 More on that (and other stuff to) here:

 http://gdl-online.com/begin1.html



GDL's site is a great resource.  I went through their testing procedure last
summer because my cruise was working intermittently---when it worked, it was
fine, but sometimes you'd hit the switch and nothing would happen.  Ended up
buying a rebuilt amp from them and now everything's fine except for a little
variation in set speed on inclines, which I suspect is the fault of the
actuator---I'll replace it the next time I have the intake manifold off.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper