Re: [neonixie-l] Re: MOD_6 for sale...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

8 watts is a lot, you should easily be able to find that with your finger. 
It'll be hot.

On Thursday, June 15, 2017 at 11:10:00 AM UTC-5, gregebert wrote:
>
> Have any of you MOD_6 owners measured the power consumption of the entire 
> clock ?
>
>
>
> 
> When I have 6 tubes running on my setup, it's around 25 watts (fluctuates 
> based on what's displayed).
> With all segments on, for all 8 tubes, it's 45W. At idle (all tubes dark), 
> it's 4W.
>
> I'm a bit disappointed at my overall inefficiency; after doing some 
> calculations there's about 8W that is getting wasted somewhere (as heat, of 
> course) in the power supply and I have yet to track it down.
> (45W measured - 33W 'known' for nixies/drivers - 4W idle = 8W unaccounted 
> for).
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Interesting nixie.....

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

There are at least two non-digit structures in the stack, they look like 
crosses or vertical bars with short horizontal segments. In the 2nd and 
about 7th positions.

Must serve as the grids.

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 3:12:09 PM UTC-5, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> In case you haven't spotted it yet...
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Burrough-B-8033-Nixie-Vacuum-Tube-/122544104712?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: trading nixies?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Thanks Nick, but at $500 USD it's a tad rich for me. Neat clock, I think 
Grahame may have instilled a bit of feature creep!

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 9:18:17 AM UTC-5, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> Terry, 
>
> Grahame's SCDue kit will drive a 5BP1 nicely...
>
> http://www.sgitheach.org.uk/scope3.html
>
> Nick
>
> On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 7:02 AM, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l <
> neoni...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>> Also just reminded myself I have a NOS 5BP1 CRT lurking. I'd like to 
>> build a scope clock with it, but it's a monster tube, and I have yet to 
>> find a kit for it.
>> Open to suggestions on that. 
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 9:09:22 PM UTC-5, Terry S wrote:
>>>
>>> I had 5 minutes to look thru my tubes.
>>>
>>> I found :
>>> a handful of DT1704 type VFD tubes, Some labeled Flurotrons.
>>> DR2000 numitrons RCA
>>> DA2110 numitrons Apollo
>>> 60 HP LED displays -- with built in decoders --5082-7331
>>> Mostek MK50250 clock chips
>>> a clock display with 6 Burroughs large-is nixie tubes, the display is in 
>>> a metal housing, rack mount, labeled hours, minutes, seconds. Ask for a pic.
>>> Some symbol tubes, from a multimeter
>>> Some smaller Burroughs, Mullard,, and Rodan tubes
>>> A bunch of IN-12 and IN-18, a couple 7971s. 
>>> More I'm certain.
>>>
>>> Terry
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 11:45:23 AM UTC-5, Terry S wrote:
>>>>
>>>> As will I, I have some nixies, numitrons, VFDs, and some rare early HP 
>>>> 7 segment displays available as well. 
>>>> I am seeking a Pandicon and IN-17s.
>>>>
>>>> Terry
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 11:05:00 AM UTC-5, Alic wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Excellent idea!
>>>>> I'll put together a trade list as well.
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>
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[neonixie-l] Picture posted

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I've had a few inquiries about the rack-mount nixie clock display -- so I 
uploaded a pic to the group TEMP folder.

I have nothing more on it right now, no dimensions or tube part numbers. 
The tubes are socketed, and the wires are all clipped short on the backside.
They are Burroughs tubes.

Terry

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[neonixie-l] Re: trading nixies?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Also just reminded myself I have a NOS 5BP1 CRT lurking. I'd like to build 
a scope clock with it, but it's a monster tube, and I have yet to find a 
kit for it.
Open to suggestions on that. 

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 9:09:22 PM UTC-5, Terry S wrote:
>
> I had 5 minutes to look thru my tubes.
>
> I found :
> a handful of DT1704 type VFD tubes, Some labeled Flurotrons.
> DR2000 numitrons RCA
> DA2110 numitrons Apollo
> 60 HP LED displays -- with built in decoders --5082-7331
> Mostek MK50250 clock chips
> a clock display with 6 Burroughs large-is nixie tubes, the display is in a 
> metal housing, rack mount, labeled hours, minutes, seconds. Ask for a pic.
> Some symbol tubes, from a multimeter
> Some smaller Burroughs, Mullard,, and Rodan tubes
> A bunch of IN-12 and IN-18, a couple 7971s. 
> More I'm certain.
>
> Terry
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 11:45:23 AM UTC-5, Terry S wrote:
>>
>> As will I, I have some nixies, numitrons, VFDs, and some rare early HP 7 
>> segment displays available as well. 
>> I am seeking a Pandicon and IN-17s.
>>
>> Terry
>>
>> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 11:05:00 AM UTC-5, Alic wrote:
>>>
>>> Excellent idea!
>>> I'll put together a trade list as well.
>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Four NL-8091 on ebay

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Cracked a fruity?

I had to google that. 

A friends little kids used to say that when they passed gas!



On Thursday, June 8, 2017 at 9:50:12 AM UTC-5, johnk wrote:
>
> Well you said/he said  "My old man had a saying: 'Cheap at half the 
> price!'. 
> " 
> BUT I suspect that you mean he might have said Cheap at Twice the Price 
> when 
> he meant a bargain. Dear at Half the Price is said too for when it ISN'T a 
> bargain.. 
> I can remember when I was doing tech work at a radio station and the 
> Blurb-writer and Production team made an advert for a client where they 
> did 
> say "Cheap at half the price" and were trying to be making the point how 
> cheap the product/service was. They actually needed to say the other 
> version 
> to make their point. I got sworn at and told to stick to my own job. It 
> went 
> to air. The sponsor cracked a fruity! 
> There is a similar pair of sayings on another topic but it escapes my 
> memory 
> right now. 
>
> Maybe I should be selling my Systron Donner clock. 
>
> John K 
> Australia. 
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Paul Andrews"  
> To:  
> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2017 9:41 PM 
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Four NL-8091 on ebay 
>
>
> > Heh. I swear the 'Make an offer' button wasn't there when I first saw 
> > this. But then there were only four up for sale then too. 
> > 
> > Even at half price, these are too rich for my blood - bearing in mind 
> > this is the price for a single tube! 
> > 
> > My old man had a saying: 'Cheap at half the price!'. Well, not in this 
> > case (for me, if you have the disposable income for these, or can see 
> > an investment opportunity, go for it). 
> > 
> >> On Jun 8, 2017, at 7:48 AM, Alic  wrote: 
> >> 
> >> Don't hesitate to make an offer, since the option is available ;-) 
> >> I think the price is meant to be "up to". 
> >> 
> >> -- 
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[neonixie-l] Re: trading nixies?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

As will I, I have some nixies, numitrons, VFDs, and some rare early HP 7 
segment displays available as well. 
I am seeking a Pandicon and IN-17s.

Terry

On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 11:05:00 AM UTC-5, Alic wrote:
>
> Excellent idea!
> I'll put together a trade list as well.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Pulsed DC vs direct DC in cathode poisioned

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

If the tubes show signs of poisoning within hours, something is seriously 
wrong with the tubes, not the clock.

I have a Nixichron that ran for many years, and some of the tubes started 
to show poisoning symptoms very gradually over time. Jeff sent me info on a 
hardware update, as well as advice on how to de-poison the tubes. It took a 
tad of rework and a few hours total time. The rework lowered the anode 
resistor value and raised the high voltage, so the tubes ran a little 
"hotter", but the poisoning has not returned at all. And I completed that 
rework at least five years ago. The clock is running strong and I expect it 
will for many more years. I run it 7 hours/day, and not at full brightness.

I did have one tube fail... what looked like poisoning was in reality a 
slow gas leak. Probably a result of my removing the tubes from rigid 
sockets.

The Nixichron has no anti-poisoning routine. I've run across numerous 
clocks that do, but some don't up the brightness to max during the routine. 
So I find that of questionable value. Others do up the brightness... don't 
put those clocks in your bedroom.

Terry

On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 7:38:34 AM UTC-5, Luka C wrote:
>
> @Ira, I think he already mentioned that he does not own a scope. If we 
> knew the model of the clock, maybe there would be someone who knows such 
> data from the firmware of the clock. Btw, if the tubes are NOS and have 
> been running since January 2017, then there is something seriously wrong 
> with the mentioned clock? Does it have anti-cathode poisoning routines 
> activated and how often?

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[neonixie-l] Re: B5750 Nixie tubes for sale in a week or two...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

My first home brew clock was B5750s. Nice smaller tube. I built a 4 digit 
clock into a Zenith "Circle of Sound" clock radio, in which the mechanical 
clock had failed.

I believe it to be the very first published example of a nixie tube clock 
radio. The picture was featured on the home page of neonixie-L back in the 
Yahoo era, for quite a while. Some long-timers here may remember that. 

The B5750s seem to be rugged little tubes with plenty of life and good 
brightness. If I had any small clock ideas in the works I might buy them 
from you.

Terry

On Friday, May 19, 2017 at 12:34:04 PM UTC-5, Craig Smith wrote:
>
> OK, I saw an auction on eBay for B5870 Nixie tubes. By the time I got home 
> and went to buy them, the auction was finished, but the same seller had 
> another auction going.
>
> The pictures looked similar, and I assumed they were another load of 
> B5870.I bought 20 and them and a couple days later (after the seller 
> had posted them, from America), I re-read the details and found out they 
> were actually B5750 tubes. The seller said that I can send them back for a 
> refund, but due to me living in the UK and the obvious postage cost, I 
> thought it may be easier to sell them on here.
>
> So, if anyone is interested in some used B5750 tubes, I will have 20 of 
> them in a week or so. I will obviously test each one to make sure they work.
>
>
> If anyone is interested in all of them, or just some of them, please PM me.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Craig
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: receiving counrty pays the cost of postal transport

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

And now, the rest of the story.

The Chinese government also subsidizes the postage, so that cost for their 
exporters is low. That's how you can pay .99 for the product AND shipping.
Clearly they also subsidize the cost of the product itself. There is NO 
economy where they can build, package, market, sell, and ship a tool of any 
flavor for .99. And make money.

Terry

On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 10:32:15 AM UTC-5, philthepill wrote:
>
> Wa back in the late 1800's when worldwide postal service began this 
> was the problem - who pays the receiving country  when I send a letter to a 
> person in another country ( and their postal system).   So most of the 
> countries of the world got together and signed the declaration of the 
> Universal Postal Union.   It said the sending country pays the cost of 
> delivering mail to a foreign country then the receiving country delivers 
> the foreign mail without any cost to the sender. You do it for our country 
> and we do it for yours.  It worked well when postal volumes between 
> countries was small but now the world buys millions of items from China 
> daily with delivery via postal mail but very few Chinese buy anything from 
> the rest of the world. So the receiving countries are spending millions 
> delivering foreign packages and the tax-payer is on the hook.
>
> We now subsidize shipping from China !Welcome to the world of being 
> taken to the cleaners. 
>
> -- Original Message -- 
> From: Instrument Resources of America  
> Date: May 15, 2017 at 10:01 PM 
>
> Speaking of Chinese, I ordered an attachment for my Dremel tool from China 
> about three weeks ago. It arrived yesterday in the U.S. Mail, as items from 
> China always do. TOTAL cost for the ITEM and the S & H $.99 (ninety nine 
> cents). Can anyone here tell how that is done?? Especially since it 
> involves the U.S. Postal Service??? Thanks Ira.
>
> On 5/15/2017 6:43 PM, 'threeneurons' via neonixie-l wrote: 
>
> I thought eBay's Global Shipping Program (GSP) was a bad idea, from the 
> get-go ! Just another reason not to use it. 
>
> When they introduced it, they automatically enabled it, in your settings. 
> You had to go into your account settings, and turn it off. In general, its 
> a rip-off ! Just another eBay "profit center". Its bad enough that shipping 
> things to outside the US, starts at ~$13.50, for a minimal weight parcel 
> (and upto 8 oz), but if I remember, the fees the GSP charges, are way above 
> that ! 
>
> Before 2012, you could ship things international, for ~$5. Before 2005, 
> the postal service still had "surface mail", which meant they waited until 
> a shipping container was filled up, before sending your parcel off, on a 
> slow boat to oblivion. Cost was cheap, though it may take up to 3 months to 
> get to your destination. Chinese still do the same thing, though it 
> probably takes well less than a week to fill up one of their containers. 
>
> Its best to pack the parcel yourself. Have you ever seen how most parcels 
> arrive from Amazon, Granger, or McMaster ? The item(s) are usually tossed 
> into the box, then those inflatable bags are tossed in on top of it. 
> Padding is most often just the thickness of the cardboard box. That's fine 
> for screws, and books, and even my kits. But not something you want to see 
> when shipping a CRT ! 
>
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Re: [neonixie-l] HV control chips

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Some of the early scopes only wrote to floppy


On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 3:41:23 PM UTC-5, jrehwin wrote:
>
> I'm not sure what's going on there, looks like maybe a shared ground isn't 
> connected right?  I hope your HV5522 isn't messed up somehow.
>
> That's a digital scope, you should be able to get a screen dump out of it. 
>  I do that with mine:
>
> http://www.vitriol.com/images/tech/scope102.png
>
> - John
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Shameless Plug: Arduino Shield for a Dekatron

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Pretty sure Mike will make some more

On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 1:43:48 PM UTC-5, blkadder wrote:
>
> I was lucky enough to grab the last one listed on ebay.  I look forward to 
> putting another Dekatron back in action.
>
> Ron
>
> On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 2:29:40 AM UTC-4, threeneurons wrote:
>>
>> If you're familiar with the Arduino, here's a shield that will plug into 
>> an Arduino Uno, so that sketches can control the dekatron. It also has an 
>> A101 socket built in. I have three sample sketches available, and more to 
>> come. No charge on the sketches.
>>
>> Dekatron Shield Kit 
>> 
>>
>> Video 
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Shameless Plug: Arduino Shield for a Dekatron

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Looks like I may have to buy yet another cool kit from you! So much 
potential with the Arduino 

On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 1:29:40 AM UTC-5, threeneurons wrote:
>
> If you're familiar with the Arduino, here's a shield that will plug into 
> an Arduino Uno, so that sketches can control the dekatron. It also has an 
> A101 socket built in. I have three sample sketches available, and more to 
> come. No charge on the sketches.
>
> Dekatron Shield Kit 
> 
>
> Video 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Spotted on Ebay: B6091/NL8423 nixies (larger 20mm/0.8 inch). Manufactured 1985

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

It makes sense, they never were a manufacturer, just a re-brander. And they 
had to guarantee their tubes, at least as supplied to the military, So they 
needed a date code as a reference. The printing on the tubes looks way 
better than most that I've seen.

I believe Radio Shaft did the same thing on some tubes late in their game. 
They may have been buying from Richardson.

Terry

On Friday, May 5, 2017 at 10:42:05 AM UTC-5, gregebert wrote:
>
> Terry- I wouldn't be surprised if they were re-dated. 1985 seemed too 
> recent, as LEDs & VFDs were churned-out like jelly beans at that time. Tons 
> of nixies from 1960's, some from 1970's. Mine tested-out fine, no signs of 
> darkening, no blue dots, etc. Definitely new-in-box, but questionable if 
> they were actually manufactured in 1985.
>
> Chuck - The lot of 6 was 100 USD thru buy-it-now. I saw some on auction; I 
> dont see these very often so I got greedy and snagged them for spares. My 
> big clock uses 15 of them, and after almost 4 years I've had 1 failure plus 
> 2 that are showing some signs of wear (1 is darkening, 1 is getting dimmer).
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Spotted on Ebay: B6091/NL8423 nixies (larger 20mm/0.8 inch). Manufactured 1985

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

They are Richardson tubes, wasn't Richardson known for re-marking tubes 
with the date code corresponding to the time of re-boxing?

Terry


On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 11:25:30 PM UTC-5, gregebert wrote:
>
> These are noticeably larger than the more-common 0.6" b5092s.
> Not my auction, but I bought a lot of 6 (new-in box/mint condition). 
> Apparently the seller has a stockpile.
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-PIECES-NOS-type-6091-8423-NATIONAL-NIXIE-TUBES-Large-Top-View-GUARANTEED-NEW-/172657232661?hash=item28332c4b15:g:-KAAAOSwo4pYl55u
>
> I was surprised to see the 8522 date-code; the only other tubes I've 
> encountered that were manufactured more recently are from the USSR.
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie in the Oxford English Dictionary

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Stamp collectors and post card collectors know the term well, it's common 
to see this on ebay, a piece of mail described as a "nixie". Caught me off 
guard the first time I ran across it.

Terry


On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 9:51:22 PM UTC-5, mgm wrote:
>
> Received this today. Someone needs to talk to the OED! 
>  
> OED 
> Online Word of the Day 
>
>
> nixie, n.2
> [‘ *U.S.* Post which cannot be forwarded by the postal services because 
> it is illegibly or incorrectly addressed. Freq. *attrib.*’]
> Pronunciation: Brit. /ˈnɪksi/,  U.S. /ˈnɪksi/
> Forms:  18– *nixy*,   19– *nixie*. 
> Origin:Formed within English, by derivation. Etymons: nix n.1, -y suffix6.
> Etymology: <  nix n.1 + -y suffix6.
>  *1.* *U.S.* Post which cannot be forwarded by the postal services 
> because it is illegibly or incorrectly addressed. Freq. *attrib.* 
> 1890 *Cent. Dict.*, Nixy2.
> 1901 *Congress. Rec.* 17 Jan. 1145/6 These poor ‘nixie’ clerks in the 
> postoffices of this country.
> 1905 *N.Y. Evening Post* 8 Feb. 5 What the railway postal clerks most 
> dread is the class of mail they know as ‘nixies’.
> 1929 *Lit. Digest* 5 Oct. 67/1 The similarity in appearance of the 
> letters N.Y. and N.J... is responsible for many letters reaching the 
> ‘Nixie’ division.
> 1956 *Daily Progress (Charlottesville, Va.)* 19 Sept. 28/1 ‘*Nixie*’ is 
> mail that can't be delivered because the address is incorrect, illegible, 
> or insufficient.
> 1994 *New Yorker* 24 Oct. 68/3 In the Central Post Office's nixie 
> unit—where mail arrives that has been illegibly or incorrectly addressed—I 
> see street numbers in the seventy thousands.
>  *2.* = nix n.1 a. *rare*. 
> 1906  E. Dyson *Fact'ry 'Ands* xviii. 249 Er storm centre..redooced..land 
> values t' nex' t' nixie.
>
> --
>
> -
>
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Malcolm
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: bleeding off HV Is it bad to turn neon light on and off by wall outlet?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Most pull chain switches - as used on neon signs -- are the old style, 
single pole single throw, ratchet/rotary action switches. Some with 
multiple brightness levels or flashing action have a slightly more 
sophisticated switch, multiple poles, but still are only single throw. I'm 
not sure how the bleeder resistor is accomplished with those style 
switches... certainly they are not rated for the HV levels present on the 
outputs. And the bleeder resistor can't always be in place because the 
wattage rating required would make the size enormous. Yet there must be a 
mechanism triggered by the switch that drops in the bleeder, or clamps the 
HV electronically. 

Next time I encounter a failed neon supply, I'll dissect it for clues. 

Terry

On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 9:18:33 AM UTC-5, philthepill wrote:
>
> I always build high voltage devices with a double pole double throw switch 
> so that one pole controls power while the other pole puts a 10 K resistor 
> across the HV supply to bleed it off  when device is turned off.  Never 
> been buzzed this way.
>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Is it bad to turn neon light on and off by wall outlet?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Finally had an opportunity to test this -- and I can confirm that on at 
least a couple of my larger neon signs, the tubes shut off differently 
using the pull chain switch than they do using the line cord. 

I have one large Boulevard Brewing sign, for example, that shuts off 
slowly, with the long border tube being the last to de-energize, in four 
distinct segments, when unplugged. By contrast, the entire sign shuts off 
immediately when I use the switch.

So I can only conclude that the power supply must be bled down quickly when 
the switch is toggled.

Terry

On Tuesday, April 25, 2017 at 11:09:55 AM UTC-5, Terry S wrote:
>
> It's possible that the power supply has circuitry that quickly discharges 
> the high voltage (maybe as simple as a bleeder resistor inserted by the 
> switch) when shut down by the switch. In the case of unplugging or the wifi 
> switch,this circuitry would not be activated, resulting in the fade out in 
> the video.
>
> I have beer neons that exhibit the same behavior when I unplug them -- 
> never tried to compare that to the pull-chain off sequence. But now you 
> have me intrigued, so I will try that this evening.
>
> I really can't envision a scenario where this would be harmful to the 
> supply or the sign. I've been turning my neons on & off by wall switch, 
> power strip switch, or unplugging them for years. I have not had a failure 
> on any of my signs (over 20 of them) -- although I've bought many with 
> already failed supplies.  Cheap because of that.
>
> Terry
>
>
> On Monday, April 24, 2017 at 9:20:46 PM UTC-5, Dman777 wrote:
>>
>> I just got a new Xbox neon light sign. I also bought a wifi smart outlet 
>> so I can turn it off with my Google Home and Echo. 
>>
>> I noticed that when I turn it off by the smart outlet, the neon sign 
>> turns off differently. The letters have a unique pattern when they turn 
>> off. This is not the same behavior as when I turn it off by the sign's 
>> native switch...then all the letters go off at once. 
>>
>> Is it bad for the neon sign or hard on the circuitry to be turning it on 
>> and off by the wall smart outlet switch instead of the signs normal on and 
>> off switch?
>>
>> Here is a video of sign being turned off by outlet 
>> 
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Neon Signage, Rolling Rock 33 Tube Sign

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

And I love the fact that it is, in essence, a 2 digit giant nixie! Does 
that make it a pandicon? Or maybe a dou-con?

I got mine a bit more cheaply, but ended up spending some money to repair 
shipping damage. Don't ship neon signage it'll only cause you grief. 
Buy local.

Terry

On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 1:44:36 PM UTC-5, TLaing wrote:
>
> The one complete neon sign I own is the Rolling Rock 33 beer sign made to 
> look like a giant 6L6GC audio amp output tube. How neat is that!  Terry S 
> has one in his pictures. I got mine a few years ago off eBay new in the box 
> for around $150?  There is at least one on eBay 201757089491. Price seems 
> high. Not my auction etc.  Tim Laing 
>
> Sent from my iPhone 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Is it bad to turn neon light on and off by wall outlet?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Decades. If the glass was done by skilled craftsmen, they simply last 
decades. I have signs from the 70's and 80's. But so many new units are 
made in China, and the quality is poor. The modern lightweight power 
supplies vary a great deal in quality, too.

On Tuesday, April 25, 2017 at 8:58:08 PM UTC-5, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> What's the average lifespan of a good neon sign then?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 25, 2017, at 18:50, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l <
> neoni...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
> Craigslist is your friend but beware, they tend to multiply.
>
> On Tuesday, April 25, 2017 at 8:45:57 PM UTC-5, Pramanicin wrote:
>>
>> I need some neon for the man cave...well apart from all the 
>> nixies/dekatrons etc..a proper neon sign....
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 5:53 PM, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l <
>> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> In case anyone is interested in more neon. a sampling of my signs.
>>>
>>> Terry
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32165280@N02/albums/72157632317636464
>>>
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>>>
>>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Is it bad to turn neon light on and off by wall outlet?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Craigslist is your friend but beware, they tend to multiply.

On Tuesday, April 25, 2017 at 8:45:57 PM UTC-5, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> I need some neon for the man cave...well apart from all the 
> nixies/dekatrons etc..a proper neon sign
>
> On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 5:53 PM, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l <
> neoni...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>> In case anyone is interested in more neon. a sampling of my signs.
>>
>> Terry
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32165280@N02/albums/72157632317636464
>>
>> -- 
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Is it bad to turn neon light on and off by wall outlet?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Respectfully disagree, Nick, this is simply the high voltage dropping off, 
with the gaseous tube ends nearest the supply connections de-ionizing last. 
Neon signs like this would be too cost sensitive to implement with 
individual control over each letter. It's typically one long tube, or in 
this case, two tubes of different colors.

Terry

On Monday, April 24, 2017 at 11:09:32 PM UTC-5, Nick wrote:
>
> When you turned the Xbox display off by the remote, it is obvious that 
> there is a programmed shutdown in the way that the letters turn off from 
> the middle out, i.e. it's a software shutdown (there's a CPU in there 
> probably controlling the SMPS and doing the cool display digit effects).
>
> When you switch the mains off, that's it. It turns off.
>
> Turning off the mains via the smart socket will not hurt the neon and 
> SHOULD NOT hurt the control electronics of the display.
>
> Nick
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Is it bad to turn neon light on and off by wall outlet?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

It's possible that the power supply has circuitry that quickly discharges 
the high voltage (maybe as simple as a bleeder resistor inserted by the 
switch) when shut down by the switch. In the case of unplugging or the wifi 
switch,this circuitry would not be activated, resulting in the fade out in 
the video.

I have beer neons that exhibit the same behavior when I unplug them -- 
never tried to compare that to the pull-chain off sequence. But now you 
have me intrigued, so I will try that this evening.

I really can't envision a scenario where this would be harmful to the 
supply or the sign. I've been turning my neons on & off by wall switch, 
power strip switch, or unplugging them for years. I have not had a failure 
on any of my signs (over 20 of them) -- although I've bought many with 
already failed supplies.  Cheap because of that.

Terry


On Monday, April 24, 2017 at 9:20:46 PM UTC-5, Dman777 wrote:
>
> I just got a new Xbox neon light sign. I also bought a wifi smart outlet 
> so I can turn it off with my Google Home and Echo. 
>
> I noticed that when I turn it off by the smart outlet, the neon sign turns 
> off differently. The letters have a unique pattern when they turn off. This 
> is not the same behavior as when I turn it off by the sign's native 
> switch...then all the letters go off at once. 
>
> Is it bad for the neon sign or hard on the circuitry to be turning it on 
> and off by the wall smart outlet switch instead of the signs normal on and 
> off switch?
>
> Here is a video of sign being turned off by outlet 
> 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Technical question on Fets and MOSFETS...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Yes, you can put FETs in parallel -- a technique I've used many times for 
motor controls. There are things you need to keep in mind, such as being 
sure to use identical parts, and keep them at the same thermal potential. 
You also need to understand the gate drive requirements that can change 
dramatically when you put FETs in parallel and that the PCB layout is 
critical, keeping traces identical and sized properly. Most of this is 
learned from many years of experience and trial and error, and not well 
discussed in technical literature. Well, it wasn't when I was learning 
it

Terry

On Sunday, April 23, 2017 at 5:30:20 PM UTC-5, orange_glow_fan wrote:
>
>  In an effort to increase current handling abilities, a 'friend' suggest 
> that one could connect a fet or mosfet in parallel with another identical 
> device
>
> I tried to wrap my mind around that, but my limited knowledge pretty  much 
> put a stop to that...In theory it sounds possible, yet somehow it seems 
> wrong...
>
>
> How's that for indecision
>
> What say you?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kerry
>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Constant current source design

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

There is a very similar story about an early super computer developed at 
Control Data in the 70's. 

An AC outlet on the side of the machine was intended for engineering for 
debug instruments.

But nightly, when the cleaning lady plugged in her vacuum cleaner, the 
machine would crash. It took days to figure it out.

Terry

On Thursday, April 20, 2017 at 2:34:21 AM UTC-5, rd2...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> That story reminds me of one from work. Not Nixie-related but sorta funny 
> :)
>
> Years ago, work had an IBM System/360 ot /370 of some age; It started 
> having faults at random times, so they called in the tech. He opened the 
> system covers, tied in all the diagnostics tools - logic analyzer, etc, 
> but, zero faults happened over a couple days of his running those; So they 
> pulled them out & closed the system up. Next day a few faults happened, so 
> he was called back in, wired it up and ran it another week, no faults. He 
> pulled the test gear & closed it up, but it crashed before he even made it 
> to his car; He was called back in and of course once wired up, zero 
> errors...
>
> The light finally lit up on someone's brain in there (reports varied on 
> whose!) - That the system cover doors, when OPEN, would preclude any 
> errors, but when they were closed, errors would occur; So they looked at 
> the wiring harnesses and found the harness that was flexing when the doors 
> were closed, which had a nasty intermittent in there, that was only going 
> open circuit VERY rarely, if quite enough to be horribly ANNOYING.
>
> Systems Engineers types and so on, HATE intermittents, they're the bane of 
> their existence :P LOL And they're quite annoying to debug, sometimes you 
> can't figure out where the darned things are hiding at all.
>
>   Mark
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Remains of a pandicon calculator

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

By the way, the calculator in that TW link is the unit I 
donated/traded/sold (can't really recall) to the "curator" of the online 
classic computer museum. I've had two of those pass thru my hands. Could 
never bring myself to tear them apart for the Pandicon.

Terry

On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 1:12:44 PM UTC-5, SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. 
wrote:
>
> more pics...
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Remains of a pandicon calculator

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Dang I'm sorry I missed that! Nice find!

On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 1:10:39 PM UTC-5, SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. 
wrote:
>
> I bought the remains of a nixie calculator from ebay a week ago. It has an 
> eight-digit pandicon-tube on it and is fully working. The Case is missing. 
>
> It's still beautiful to me and i though i'd share this with you :)
>
> Very interesting is the concept of the buttons! The used small plastic 
> shells with a round magnet inside, to set of reed-switches when pressing 
> the button - instead of using mechanical switches!
> By google-ing around i think it could be the the remains of the 
> "Logic-Data TW" Link! 
> , because it 
> matches the key layout (besides "P" and "CF" missing)
>
>
> Enjoy the pictures :) 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Manufacturing affordable large, new nixie tubes

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Dalibor is already making very high quality tubes, and it took him years to 
perfect his process. I'm skeptical of your claim of a sub $25 price. But if 
you can produce them, you will surely find a ready market.

On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 4:52:06 AM UTC-5, Aiden Koh wrote:
>
> I'm a product engineer taking on a new project.
> With current manufacturing methods, I'm able to manufacture In-18/Z568M 
> inspired nixie tubes, at a fraction of their market costs (sub 25 USD/pc). 
> I don't compromise on quality. hence, it will be built with parts mostly 
> sourced from the US, and have the quality management system ISO-certified.
>
> However, due to overhead costs, such a price is only available if the 
> minimum demand for said tubes is reached. Hence I can only commence with 
> the project when I know that there is enough interest.
>
> What are your thoughts? Would it interest you if such tubes exist? show 
> your support, and large, affordable nixie tubes may finally be within our 
> grasp!
>

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[neonixie-l] Need IN-14

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Has anyone in the states got a long leaded IN-14 to "front" me?

I'm fixing another clock for a fellow, and I've ordered tubes, but they may 
be weeks in coming. If anyone can send me a NOS IN-14 with long leads, I 
will repay with a NOS tube plus postage & an extra $5.upon their 
arrival.

What's your experience with ordering tubes from Russia? Do they really take 
as long as they claim to arrive? This transaction is saying mid May. USPS 
tracking says they are en-route already.

If it's only a couple weeks I can wait.

Terry

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[neonixie-l] Re: My favorite Nixie tube

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I like the horizontal wire grid as well, what is the tube?
Terry

On Monday, March 27, 2017 at 10:56:56 PM UTC-5, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> at least for now! Just de-soldered a bunch of these from an old counter 
> (and some 7441A chips). They were very grimy, but cleaned up nicely and 
> they all work well. Cathodes are shiny and there is no darkening on the 
> glass:
>
>
> 
>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Mounting IN-18 tubes

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Super easy in Eagle. Put your cursor over the part origin, right click, 
click on properties. Enter the desired angle in the angle field. In this 
case, -4.15

Terry

On Thursday, March 16, 2017 at 3:24:00 PM UTC-5, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> Does anyone have Eagle or Kicad footprint files that have this fix, or how 
> easy is it to rotate a footprint in either Eagle or KiCAD?
>
> On Tuesday, February 7, 2017 at 2:38:57 AM UTC-5, Nixcited delighted wrote:
>>
>> Just to remind people that the diagram on Dieter's website 
>> http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/data/in18.htm for the IN-18 
>> pinout is wrong. I would not know how many people have fallen foul of this, 
>> but I did. The tube needs rotating about 4.15º degrees clockwise. The IN-18 
>> sockets Dieter sells would also seem to replicate this error.
>>
>> See diagram attached:
>>
>>
>> John S
>>
>>
>> On 7 Feb 2017, at 03:48, Paul Andrews wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone have any suggestions about how to mount IN-18 tubes? It looks 
>> like they are intended to be socketed and I see some sockets/pins on ebay. 
>> I would like to underlight them too, if that makes a difference.
>>
>> By the way, does anyone have CAD files for the physical pin layout? e.g 
>> DXF files, and/or KiCAD footprints?
>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: IN-14 and Mystery Tube?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Seems unlikely. If it smoked, you did damage. Nothing in the semi world 
gets hot enough to cause smoke without some damage. 
Revisit your circuit. If it hasn't failed yet, it will.

Terry

On Sunday, March 12, 2017 at 10:19:55 PM UTC-5, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> Tell me about it :-/ I had smoke coming out of something the other day. 
> Amazingly nothing was damaged. Live and learn!
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2017 at 10:17:17 PM UTC-4, gregebert wrote:
>>
>> *If everything is properly connected*, even an internal short in the 
>> 74141 that leaked high-voltage back to the Arduino, which seems unlikely, 
>> would be limited to a few mA so it's unlikely to cause damage.
>>
>> Your biggest risk is a hookup error, or possibly ESD damage to the 
>> Arduino from mishandling.
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: brightest nixie tube clock already assembled

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Brightness is a trade off with tube life, so consider that before you look 
for the brightest clock. Does it need to be visible in direct sunlight?
Why does it need to be so bright?

This particular clock looks like it direct drive, non multiplexed, so 
chances are it is bright enough. But don't trust the photos.

On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 1:43:36 PM UTC-6, Keith wrote:
>
> I am wanting to purchase a nixie tube clock already built but I would like 
> to get one that has the most brightness. I was looking at in-18 size nixie 
> tubes. When looking at some the brightness is not that bright. So far I 
> found this one to be a brightest unless it's just Photoshop or because the 
> ambient lighting around it is darker. Does anyone have any recommendations 
> for where to buy one that has a good reputation but does not cost an arm 
> and a leg like this does?
>
> $500 is a bit much
> http://nixieshop.com/in-18-clock.html
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Taylor Edge Nixie Clock Kit

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

First we need some clarification of the problem, as your original post 
contains a discrepancy. At one point you say the 10 minute tube is not 
counting correctly, then later you say it is fine. This is probably a typo, 
but let's hear the answer.

Nick, the 10s are driven by 92's and the 1s by 90's. Another minor 
correction for clarity.

Here is where I would break out the logic analyzer and hang some probes, 
watch the count sequence. This appears to be a case of the counters not 
resetting properly as they roll over from 5 to 0.  This could be for a 
number of reasons, maybe the parts are faster than the used to be, subtle 
changes in setup & hold times can occur with die changes, shrinks, 
technology changes, etc. Maybe a ringing clock that never used to be a 
problem is now..

USB based logic analyzers are handy tools, and have gotten pretty cheap.

Check the counting with & without the 74141s installed. If they are loading 
the counter outputs, they could affect the count sequence, as some outputs 
are also used internally on the counters to sequence the F/Fs.

Terry


On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 9:07:27 PM UTC-6, Nick wrote:
>
> ...Also, reading your problem description isolates the issue to the 10s 
> digits. 
>
> The 10s are driven by 7490s whereas the units are driven by 7492s. Do you 
> have the right chips in the right places?
>
> I'd also try swapping round the 74141s between the 10s and units to see if 
> the problem moves with them - 74141s can fail
>
> Isolate the problem.
>
> Nick
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Nixies on Linkedin

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

An ad from Keysight today.



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[neonixie-l] Re: HV control chips

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

These are interesting devices. I've used that exact circuit dozens of times 
for constant current sources... never knew it existed as a discrete 2 
terminal component.

Terry

On Sunday, February 26, 2017 at 4:15:25 PM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:
>
> Nice find!!!  I've never heard of these devices before.  Should work 
> exactly as you mentioned. I dont see them at DigiKey, but I do see a nice 
> selection at Mouser.
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Neontact pinball machine

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Now THAT is awesome! Nice find!

Terry


On Sunday, February 19, 2017 at 9:15:26 AM UTC-6, Nixcited delighted wrote:
>
> Neontact was a pre-flipper pinball machine made in 1935 by the Pacific 
> Amusement Manufacturing Co and cost $62.50.
>
> The neon tubes in the back glass allowed the letters of TWO - FIVE - TEN 
> and TWENTY to be lit. A plunger on the left side allowed the ball to be 
> deflected towards the horseshoe pockets.
>
> The circular chrome feature, top right of the playfield, was a rudimentary 
> tilt mechanism called a "Stool pigeon". A ball was set on a pedestal and 
> set off an alarm if it fell off. The operator would have to remove the 
> glass and replace the ball. A hanging plumb-bob system quickly replaced 
> this silly idea.
>
>
>
> John S
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: A tube for less than $5

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Please accept my order for 1000 pcs
Terry

On Friday, February 17, 2017 at 12:42:34 PM UTC-6, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> In 1966. In quantities of 1,000 or more. That is $37 in today's money. In 
> case you get too concerned about the price of nixie's on ebay!
>
>
> 
>
>

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[neonixie-l] No wonder Bikron went out of business.

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Reading this "digital" clock is painful.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/292030661405?ul_noapp=true

I have an older, only slightly more intuitive version of the Bikron clock. 
It recently quit counting and needs troubleshooting.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/32165280@N02/6317296108

Terry

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[neonixie-l] Re: A brief history of Nixie watches

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Actually David, there is a whole slew of rather clunky nixie watches 
showing up on ebay right now. 
Yours continues to be the nicest IMHO.

Terry

On Tuesday, February 7, 2017 at 10:38:32 AM UTC-6, nixiebunny wrote:
>
> Since there's a new Nixie watch player, I thought I'd give a brief 
> pictorial history of how many times I had to redesign my Nixie watch 
> before I was happy with it. 
>
> I also have a pile of non-working watch modules that's bigger than the 
> total production of every other Nixie watch maker on the planet. Which 
> is a few dozen watches. (I've made about 1500 watches by now.) 
>
>
> -- 
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Another WiFi NTP device...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I would like to use such a device with my Nixichron, but I believe my 
firmware is too old and needs the 1 PPS pulse from the GPS.
Has anyone got updated Nixichron code?

Terry


On Friday, January 27, 2017 at 1:30:02 PM UTC-6, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> Just noted that PV Electronics is selling a NTP adapter for their clocks...
>
>
> http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info=10_id=188
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] NL 7094

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Agree. There is no joy in an un-lit nixie. Build stuff.
Terry

On Sunday, January 22, 2017 at 3:10:56 PM UTC-6, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> I get that Jens, but eventually they will fail...maybe not in 10 or 20 
> years, but eventually they will de-gas...? I'm a believer in enjoying them 
> whilst you can...life is short. And hey, Dalibor is making new ones, so 
> it's all good!
>
> On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 1:05 PM, jb-electronics  > wrote:
>
>> I am not even sure if I woud ever build such a clock. For me these kind 
>> of tubes are too precious to be burnt off in some clock. Weird collector's 
>> point of view, probably. At some time I had quite a few GR10G (transparent 
>> mesh), and I considered building a clock with them, but I decided against 
>> that for the above reason. So the only Nixie clocks I ever owned had IN-14s 
>> in it, or Burroughs B-5870s...
>>
>>
>> On 1/22/2017 1:59 PM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
>>
>> Not really...ha ha!!
>>
>> I've resigned myself to the fact it is very unlikely I'll get to make a 
>> clock with 6 NL7094's.I was born in the wrong era
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 12:54 PM, jb-electronics <
>> webm...@jb-electronics.de > wrote:
>>
>>> Well not really, I had to give up five of them. They are in a clock 
>>> somewhere now, I traded them for some other tubes. Feel better? ;) 
>>>
>>>
>>> On 1/22/2017 1:47 PM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
>>>
>>> Now that's just mean:-)
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jan 22, 2017, at 12:44, jb-electronics >> > wrote:
>>>
>>> There you go ;) Cheers Jens
>>>
>>> On 1/22/2017 1:35 PM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
>>>
>>> Ah ha! Another 7094 in the wild.I need 5 more! ;)
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 12:28 PM, 'David Weiner' via neonixie-l <
>>> neoni...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>>>
 Could Dalibor Farný try his hand at the giant round NL7094  over 3 
 inches around ,all this tube talk made me take one out of the box and look 
 it over"oh yeah that's the stuff"
 Below B 7971,Z568M,NL 8091,NL7094

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 Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: black box from Czech Republic

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I would find room, trust me.
Terry

On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 3:08:42 PM UTC-6, Dalibor wrote:
>
> 6-tube clock with CD47.. but where to place such a beast? ;-) I had a 
> problem to find a place for clock with current tubes ;-)
> On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 at 21:58, Nicholas Stock <nick...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> I'll second the CD47'sbigger is better! :-)
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 21, 2017, at 12:51, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l <
>> neoni...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>>
>> Congratulations Dalibor. I hope you build a Nixie Empire and part of 
>> that should be CD47s and Pandicons! Good luck.
>>
>> Terry
>>
>> On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 10:33:54 AM UTC-6, Dalibor wrote:
>>>
>>> Guys, I've been making profit since beginning - my wonderful job is the 
>>> profit! What better stuff can one trade for money? ;-) Seriously, we 
>>> finally got to black numbers in 2016, using all the profit for improving 
>>> the processes here and development of new things!
>>>
>>> Dalibor
>>>
>>> On Friday, 20 January 2017 21:33:26 UTC+1, gregebert wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 1300 of them..truly amazing. I hope Dalibor is finally making a 
>>>> profit on his hard work.
>>>>
>>>> In case any of you missed it, this is a must-see video of Dalibor's 
>>>> nixie production
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxL4ElboiuA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: black box from Czech Republic

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Congratulations Dalibor. I hope you build a Nixie Empire and part of 
that should be CD47s and Pandicons! Good luck.

Terry

On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 10:33:54 AM UTC-6, Dalibor wrote:
>
> Guys, I've been making profit since beginning - my wonderful job is the 
> profit! What better stuff can one trade for money? ;-) Seriously, we 
> finally got to black numbers in 2016, using all the profit for improving 
> the processes here and development of new things!
>
> Dalibor
>
> On Friday, 20 January 2017 21:33:26 UTC+1, gregebert wrote:
>>
>> 1300 of them..truly amazing. I hope Dalibor is finally making a 
>> profit on his hard work.
>>
>> In case any of you missed it, this is a must-see video of Dalibor's nixie 
>> production
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxL4ElboiuA
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: black box from Czech Republic

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

And what is this black box?

On Friday, January 20, 2017 at 3:58:42 AM UTC-6, newxito wrote:
>
> Yesterday I got a really nice black box from the Czech Republic, serial 
> numbers around 1300.
>
> I’m looking forward to build my second clock, I will try to do it better 
> this time, with a PCB, time sync over NTP and a browser based clock 
> configuration.
>
> For this project I also need to dramatically improve my skills as a case 
> builder :-)
>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Group document repository...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Could a host or moderator please UNPIN this topic so it stops showing up at 
the top of the list? Thanks. Terry.

On Monday, August 8, 2016 at 10:25:20 AM UTC-5, Nick wrote:
>
> Ideas please!
>
> Any way we could use a Google service for this would be preferred, 
> integration with Groups would be even better
>
> Need the concept of users (upload & read allowed, but no moves or deletes) 
> & admins (full access) for sure Low Gb would be enough... Maybe Dropbox?
>
> Private servers, e.g. members' own, would not be a viable option... :)
>
> Cheers
>
> Nick
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Leap second...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

You had to adjust the worlds' most accurate clock? That thing should just 
KNOW about leap seconds.

On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 1:35:25 PM UTC-6, nixiebunny wrote:
>
> Terry, 
>
> I knew that none of my clocks that I made would do anything interesting 
> with it, 
> since none of them have calendars, so I watched the time.gov clock page 
> and shot 
> a short phone video of the leap second happening. It's a bit weird to 
> watch. 
>
> I did have to adjust my rubidium Nixie clock after the event. 
>
> On 1/3/2017 10:34 AM, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l wrote: 
> > Ok, I'll admit I tried to spot the lead-second. It didn't work. 
> > 
> > My WWVB based nixie clock isn't even capable of displaying "60" in the 
> seconds 
> > field, so I knew that clock wouldn't show it. However, right next to it 
> I keep 
> > an Oregon Scientific WWVB clock. That clock didn't show the leap second, 
> either. 
> > 
> > And of course, my Nixichron went into it's hourly display of location 
> and 
> > temperature at the top of the hour. Never saw the leap second there, 
> either. 
> > 
> > I'm not sure when or if my WWVB clocks synced up correctly I'll have 
> to 
> > check that this evening. 
> > 
> > Fail. 
> > 
> > Terry 
>
>
> -- 
> David Forbes, Tucson, AZ 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Leap second...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Ok, I'll admit I tried to spot the lead-second. It didn't work.

My WWVB based nixie clock isn't even capable of displaying "60" in the 
seconds field, so I knew that clock wouldn't show it. However, right next 
to it I keep an Oregon Scientific WWVB clock. That clock didn't show the 
leap second, either.

And of course, my Nixichron went into it's hourly display of location and 
temperature at the top of the hour. Never saw the leap second there, either.

I'm not sure when or if my WWVB clocks synced up correctly I'll have to 
check that this evening.

Fail.

Terry

On Saturday, December 31, 2016 at 9:03:20 AM UTC-6, Terry S wrote:
>
> I wonder how my WWVB based clocks will handle that? Might have to stay up 
> and watch.
>
> Terry
>
> On Friday, December 30, 2016 at 9:35:10 PM UTC-6, Nick wrote:
>>
>> A chance to record 23:59:60 on your nixie clock this New Year's Eve as a 
>> leap second is being added - only the 27th ever...
>>
>> Nick
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Leap second...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Interesting read: http://www.leapsecond.com/notes/leap-watch.htm

Terry

On Saturday, December 31, 2016 at 10:11:17 AM UTC-6, Scott McInness wrote:
>
> The most recent leap second was inserted on 30 June 2015 at 23:59:60 UTC, 
> so whatever happened 18 months *should* happen again this time. Note that 
> the leap second is inserted at 23:59:60 UTC, so your local time zone will 
> affect when you actually see the leap second – it’s about eight hours away.
>
>  
>
> Have a read of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leap_second if you want to 
> know more about why.
>
>  
>
> *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> neoni...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *Nicholas Stock
> *Sent:* Sunday, 1 January 2017 2:19 AM
> *To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Leap second...
>
>  
>
> Y2K all over again!! 
>
>  
>
> If I can stay up I'll try and keep an eye on mine.
>
>  
>
> Happy New Year Folks!
>
>  
>
> On Sat, Dec 31, 2016 at 7:41 AM, H. Carl Ott  > wrote:
>
> I'm not 100% sure, and I wrote the code. lol,
>
>  
>
> But really. 
>
>  
>
> We convert the time info in the GPS NMEA sentence to a 32 bit elapsed 
> seconds count from an epoch date. This is what gets transmitted via the 
> RPTR radio link.  
>
>  
>
> So.  
>
> Dec 31,  23:59:60
>
> Jan   1,  00:00:00
>
>  
>
> Should both display the same (as Jan 1  00:00:00).
>
>  
>
>  If you have any transition effects that run at the top on the minute they 
> will start as usual and then exit with the correct time showing. You should 
> also get a  "SYNCED" message as the clock readjusts its internal RTC to 
> match the received GPS time.  
>
>  
>
> But if the GPS module itself gets confused, who knows what'll happen. 
> Could be fun to watch.   
>
>  
>
> carl
> 
> Henry Carl Ott   N2RVQhcar...@gmail.com 
>
>  
>
> On Sat, Dec 31, 2016 at 10:05 AM, Jon D.  
> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know how the MOD-SIX_7971 will display this extra second?
>
> Jon
>
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[neonixie-l] Re: Leap second...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I wonder how my WWVB based clocks will handle that? Might have to stay up 
and watch.

Terry

On Friday, December 30, 2016 at 9:35:10 PM UTC-6, Nick wrote:
>
> A chance to record 23:59:60 on your nixie clock this New Year's Eve as a 
> leap second is being added - only the 27th ever...
>
> Nick
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Faulty Atmel Microcontrollers from Aliexpress

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Before the Microchip acquisition, Atmel wasn't exactly fabless, they had 
purchased a few smaller companies that came with fabs. I don't know where 
the AVR series is made.

The problem is likely counterfeit parts, or die that didn't test 100%, and 
"leaked" out of fabs... This is more common than chip vendors like to 
admit. It has happened to TI and Burr-Brown for example. Sometimes good die 
leak out as well, but the handling and packaging at that point is 
unreliable.

Terry

On Sunday, December 18, 2016 at 10:49:39 AM UTC-6, NeonJohn wrote:
>
> No idea, though I can't imagine them changing their entire work flow and 
> methods just like that.  The blank silicon may come from MicroChip now. 
>
> John 
>
>
> On 12/18/2016 11:34 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote: 
> >> Atmel is what is known as a foundryless manufacturer.  That is they 
> have 
> >> hunks of silicon logic manufactured by someone else. 
> > 
> > Is that still true, after their acquisition by Microchip? 
> > 
> > - John 
> > 
>
> -- 
> John DeArmond 
> Tellico Plains, Occupied TN 
> http://www.tnduction.com<-- THE source for induction heaters 
> http://www.neon-john.com<-- email from here 
> http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net 
> PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Faulty Atmel Microcontrollers from Aliexpress

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

You my very well have counterfeit micro-controllers.  My suggestion would 
be to contact your Atmel rep and ask them to de-cap a few to verify. 
However, when they learn how you bought them, they may not be very willing 
to do this for you. Of course you would have more leverage if you were a 
large corporation or large quantity buyer -- through distribution. 

I've been down this road several times, every case was parts purchased on 
the gray market, when nothing was available through distribution. 

Terry


On Saturday, December 17, 2016 at 2:26:48 PM UTC-6, Luka C wrote:
>
> I'm writing this to warn others or ask if anyone had similar experiences. 
> I purchased a lot of Atmel ATMEGA328P microcontrollers from a seller on 
> Aliexpress. The lot was listed as "new" in the description and had a 
> picture of the microcontroller in the reel so I thought it's a legit new 
> sealed lot. After the package arrived, I noticed the microcontrollers were 
> not in a real and were just randomly taped on a piece of some material with 
> some semitransparent tape. I sent the boards to the local PCB soldering 
> company and they have soldered microcontrollers on the boards. I flashed 
> the program and the first board and it worked just fine so I thought I made 
> a great deal because the price was really good for the lot.
>
> But this is where things became strange, after I was done programming the 
> first board, I tested the other boards. The results were strange to say at 
> least. Some of the microcontrollers came in a "state" where any fuse 
> reprogramming was impossible (btw, SPIEN was not disabled in the fuses!). 
> Two particular microncontroller samples were really strange. 
>
> One seemed to execute really strange sequences of commands without any 
> reason and my nixie clock would get frozen every now and then. Since I own 
> the debugger (Atmel ICE), I decided to debug the firmware on the chip. It 
> turns out that the chip would go really crazy when, for example, 0 and 5 
> were displayed on the two middle tubes on my clock. The debugger call stack 
> showed that one function was executed when it should not have been and the 
> values of variables in the programmed had values that in no way could be 
> there in the normal program operation.
>
> Second one had trouble outputting data to the LED controller. Debugging 
> this one's firmware showed that the microcontroller was not frozen and in 
> fact was sending data to the LED controller but I guess the data was not 
> properly formatted or something.
>
> There were some boards with perfectly fine chips so I decided to do a 
> simple tested. Since my clock consists of 2 boards, one for the 
> microcontrollers and power supply circuitry and the other one for the nixie 
> tubes and the LEDs, I decided to do a test and swapped the board with the 
> tubes and LEDs across both "working" and "faulty" microcontroller boards. 
> The working ones never produced not a single fault or glitch, I tried to 
> replicate the bugs on them with no success. On the other hand, the faulty 
> ones were impossible to fix even by reflashing the microcontrollers 
> multiple times with the exact same hex filed used to flash the working ones.
>
> At the end, I am confused. I am not sure what to conclude from this 
> really. I believe the fault is not in the board itself (PCB layout or 
> connections) but that it comes from the faulty microcontrollers I have 
> purchased. After doing a little research on the internet, I found some 
> people saying that these Chinese companies basically buy used equipment and 
> remove the microcontrollers from them or that they simply purchased large 
> quantities of chips that have failed quality control and sells them at 
> lower prices. I will try to find a way to remove the faulty ones from the 
> boards and replace them with new ones purchased from RS Components and then 
> do the tests again.
>
> Anyone ever had similar experiences or has any idea why would this happen?
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Oscilloscope Music

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I was sick of it after about a minute and physically sick by minute two.

On Monday, December 5, 2016 at 4:24:38 PM UTC-6, Frank Bemelman wrote:
>
> Interesting...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XziuEdpVUe0
>
> Cheers,
> Frank
>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] TI MSP430 promo...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I concur. I've been using their DSPs and related micros for a very long 
time now. My experience has been positive overall, but be forewarned, they 
tend to not meet their early ship schedules for new parts. At least beyond 
prototype quantities. And the early parts are frequently buggy.

On the positive side, the eval boards are usually free, if you have a good 
relationship with your local rep.

Terry

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 8:03:19 PM UTC-6, Nick wrote:
>
> It is cloud centric - this approach does make sense as there is so much 
> there and it's constantly being updated.
>
> If I was on satellite internet like you I'd take my laptop/system to a 
> local library or somewhere with free wi-fi and do the downloads there.
>
> Although I use windows, I fly a lot so have switched to local copies of 
> the key packages on my laptop - it's easy to do... Much of the package 
> documentation is now webby and seems to be generated by doxygen, which is a 
> good approach.
>
> My experience of TI's support has also been very positive. They are very 
> responsive and helpful - the e2e forums are good and full of TI support 
> staff and engineers. The nice thing about the MSP stuff is that the user 
> community is pretty much entirely professional, so the quality of forum 
> content is consequently high - a bit of a snobby thing to say, but true 
> none the less :)
>
> Nick
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tube impressions

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Jens, your site is impressive as always. One of the sites I go back to over 
and over as a reference source.
Terry


On Monday, November 28, 2016 at 3:59:44 AM UTC-6, Jens Boos wrote:
>
> Hi folks, 
>
> it's been a while with an update on my website... Here is something I 
> hope you will enjoy: a few "Nixie tube impressions." I basically edited 
> a few of my favorite Nixie tube pictures and added some colors. Let me 
> know what you think. 
>
> http://jb-electronics.de/html/elektronik/nixies/n_impressions.htm?lang=en 
>
> Best wishes 
> Jens 
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I replaced the 2nd tube last night. It tests bad in the same manner as the 
1st -- a small purple glow from the neon sign tester, no cathodes light up. 
I installed a replacement tube and ran the clock overnight -- almost 24 
hours now, and everything seems fine. The printing is gone from the tubes, 
I cannot compare date codes. The tubes look identical.

If the current was excessive, then the digits should be brighter than the 
others. They are not. And the anode resistors measure OK.

Curious note, the same owner has sent me another, identical clock to 
repair the saga continues.

Terry

On Friday, November 18, 2016 at 10:27:00 AM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:
>
> After you've removed both tubes, I'm curious how both will bench-test. I 
> still cant figure out how 2 would fail simultaneously.
>
> Check with the clock's owner to see if 1 tube failed first, and they used 
> it like that for awhile, and then the second tube failed later. If that's 
> the scenario, there has to be a circuit-wise explanation for the second 
> tube's failure. Perhaps excess (ie, 2X) current ? Maybe a bad batch of 
> tubes (compare date-codes) ?
>
> I've only had 1 nixie actually fail on me, and it was due to a 
> manufacturing defect (internal spot-weld broke). OK I lied, I had a bunch 
> of IN-1's fail, but they dont count.
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

David,

They are also the easiest to solder without sockets... so I can see the 
builders' intent.

Some of the replacement tubes (used tubes) had the plastic spacers, but I 
couldn't leave them on the tubes, as there are components -- LEDs & 
resistors -- beneath the tubes. In fact 3 different LEDs below each tube. 
Quite a color show.

The replacement tubes had the wires cut, and of the 4 tubes provided to me, 
only 2 were usable because of the wire length. One of those had some 
horrible iron curtain glue all over the wire leads. Almost an hour of work 
to clean that off. No solvent I had handy would touch it.

Terry

On Thursday, November 17, 2016 at 1:33:22 PM UTC-6, nixiebunny wrote:
>
> Terry, 
>
> I am surprised that a Nixie tube with wire leads would not be socketed. 
> That's 
> the easiest type of tube to put a socket on! 
>
> These tubes often are sold with a plastic alignment wafer that will align 
> the 
> wires for you, if you hold the wafer against the PCB while pushing the 
> wires 
> down through it. 
>
> On 11/17/2016 12:27 PM, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l wrote: 
> > Another quick update. 
> > 
> > Replacing the 10's hours tube worked fine. So I do indeed have two bad 
> tubes. 
> > I've extracted the other bad tube (1's minutes) and will replace it this 
> evening. 
> > 
> > Once I got that going -- after tearing out what is left of my hair 
> trying to get 
> > all 13 tube wires into the PCB -- I noticed that the decimal point on 
> the 10's 
> > seconds tube was not lighting. Closer inspection revealed that not only 
> was it 
> > not only not lighting -- it was missing all together. Looks like the 
> connecting 
> > tab is there, but no cathode. No glow. Owner is not concerned. 
> > 
> > <
> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-knlOkmTOlNQ/WC4DNOCnFDI/AEk/t0Nf0QLDVOAgyyJgft9B8aCPj6WIvE-kgCLcB/s1600/missing%2Bcomma.jpg>
>  
>
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Terry 
>
>
> -- 
> David Forbes, Tucson, AZ 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Another quick update.

Replacing the 10's hours tube worked fine. So I do indeed have two bad 
tubes. I've extracted the other bad tube (1's minutes) and will replace it 
this evening.

Once I got that going -- after tearing out what is left of my hair trying 
to get all 13 tube wires into the PCB -- I noticed that the decimal point 
on the 10's seconds tube was not lighting. Closer inspection revealed that 
not only was it not only not lighting -- it was missing all together. Looks 
like the connecting tab is there, but no cathode. No glow. Owner is not 
concerned.






Terry

On Wednesday, November 16, 2016 at 2:58:29 PM UTC-6, Terry S wrote:
>
> Excellent suggestions. Here is an update.
>
> I do have the schematic -- however I do not have permission from the 
> designer to publish it. I have ohm'd out the entire circuit, anode and 
> cathode sides.
>
> I did check the timing -- as you said, it was in the millisecond range, 
> and no tubes are being skipped.
>
> I finally did test the tubes with my sign tester. The working tubes lit up 
> with a nice orange glow. The two non-working tubes lit just slightly, with 
> a purplish glow. This told me there was something different about those 
> tubes.
>
> I extracted one of the non-working tubes from the board, and unlike a 
> known good tube, I could not get the individual cathodes to light with the 
> tester. So I am now convinced the clock has two bad or gassy tubes.
>
> As of yet, I've been unable to install a new tube -- having trouble 
> cleaning the solder out of the PCB holes. Not my clock, so I'm working very 
> hard to not damage the PCB.
>
> Thanks for the help -- I will post updates as I make progress.
>
> Terry
>
>
> On Wednesday, November 16, 2016 at 12:00:11 AM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:
>>
>> OK, all of the obvious culprits have been ruled out so now we have to 
>> consider weird things.
>>
>> Wish you had a schematic, but it's not mandatory.
>>
>> 1. With your scope, do you see similar on/off times at the base of each 
>> NPN 'predriver' ? It should be in the milisecond range. Trying to rule-out 
>> the possibility of the control logic 'skipping-over' the tubes that aren't 
>> lit.
>>
>> 2. This might be risky, but you could try momentarily connecting the 
>> anode of the bad tubes to the anode of a good tube. You may want to play it 
>> safe and use a resistor of a few K-ohms instead of a short. If all 4 tubes 
>> are off, there's a low-impedance path somewhere.
>>
>> 3. Connect a 10K resistor to +170V supply. This will not damage the PNP, 
>> and assuming it takes 150V to illuminate the tube, the 10K resistor will 
>> limit the current to a safe value of 2mA (1 mA per tube). It wont be a 
>> strong glow, but you will see it if the tubes are alive.
>>
>> Connect a voltmeter to the other side of the resistor, and GND.
>>
>> Next, momentarily touch the resistor (voltmeter side, not +170V side!) 
>>  to the dead tube's anode. You should see the 2 dead tubes glow, and see 
>> around +150V. If you see significantly less voltage, or zero, there is a 
>> short or low-impedance path somewhere. It could be the voltage divider, or 
>> a bad tube. You may need to unsolder one or both anodes to confirm
>>
>> If the voltmeter still reads ~170 when you touch the tube, and there's no 
>> glow, there could be an open somewhere. You'll need to buzz-out the 
>> connections between the tube's anode pin, anode resistor, and PNP. If that 
>> still fails, then I see no other culprit besides the tubes.
>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Excellent suggestions. Here is an update.

I do have the schematic -- however I do not have permission from the 
designer to publish it. I have ohm'd out the entire circuit, anode and 
cathode sides.

I did check the timing -- as you said, it was in the millisecond range, and 
no tubes are being skipped.

I finally did test the tubes with my sign tester. The working tubes lit up 
with a nice orange glow. The two non-working tubes lit just slightly, with 
a purplish glow. This told me there was something different about those 
tubes.

I extracted one of the non-working tubes from the board, and unlike a known 
good tube, I could not get the individual cathodes to light with the 
tester. So I am now convinced the clock has two bad or gassy tubes.

As of yet, I've been unable to install a new tube -- having trouble 
cleaning the solder out of the PCB holes. Not my clock, so I'm working very 
hard to not damage the PCB.

Thanks for the help -- I will post updates as I make progress.

Terry


On Wednesday, November 16, 2016 at 12:00:11 AM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:
>
> OK, all of the obvious culprits have been ruled out so now we have to 
> consider weird things.
>
> Wish you had a schematic, but it's not mandatory.
>
> 1. With your scope, do you see similar on/off times at the base of each 
> NPN 'predriver' ? It should be in the milisecond range. Trying to rule-out 
> the possibility of the control logic 'skipping-over' the tubes that aren't 
> lit.
>
> 2. This might be risky, but you could try momentarily connecting the anode 
> of the bad tubes to the anode of a good tube. You may want to play it safe 
> and use a resistor of a few K-ohms instead of a short. If all 4 tubes are 
> off, there's a low-impedance path somewhere.
>
> 3. Connect a 10K resistor to +170V supply. This will not damage the PNP, 
> and assuming it takes 150V to illuminate the tube, the 10K resistor will 
> limit the current to a safe value of 2mA (1 mA per tube). It wont be a 
> strong glow, but you will see it if the tubes are alive.
>
> Connect a voltmeter to the other side of the resistor, and GND.
>
> Next, momentarily touch the resistor (voltmeter side, not +170V side!)  to 
> the dead tube's anode. You should see the 2 dead tubes glow, and see around 
> +150V. If you see significantly less voltage, or zero, there is a short or 
> low-impedance path somewhere. It could be the voltage divider, or a bad 
> tube. You may need to unsolder one or both anodes to confirm
>
> If the voltmeter still reads ~170 when you touch the tube, and there's no 
> glow, there could be an open somewhere. You'll need to buzz-out the 
> connections between the tube's anode pin, anode resistor, and PNP. If that 
> still fails, then I see no other culprit besides the tubes.
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Transistors arrived today --- I swapped in a new PNP and still no dice. 
Since the tubes have individual anode resistors, I remain at a  loss as to 
what the problem is. Waveforms did not change.

On the working tubes, I can see the voltage drop across the anode resistor 
as the tube lights. No such drop across the anode resistors on the non 
working tubes that share the HV anode driver.

Could I really have 2 bad tubes, that just happen to share a driver? Would 
all the digits fail?

I'm tempted to apply my neon sign tester to the tubes to see if they 
ionize, but I'm a bit fearful about damaging the clock.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Terry



On Saturday, November 12, 2016 at 8:48:27 AM UTC-6, Terry S wrote:
>
> I did trace the logic level signal from the CPU to the anode driver -- 
> it's good all the way up to the NPN and past that thru the voltage divider 
> (although harder to see) to the base of the PNP. So while I am *fairly* 
> certain the PNP is the culprit, I haven't ruled out a tube yet. Resistors 
> ohm out good.
>
> Terry
>
> On Friday, November 11, 2016 at 9:56:47 PM UTC-6, Dekatron42 wrote:
>>
>> You might already have tried the ideas below, or already know about them 
>> but I mention them anyway as I have come across those faults.
>>
>> You should make sure that you load the driver properly, otherwise it 
>> might not show its fault as small leakage currents will be present and show 
>> you the wrong voltage levels. If possible you should disconnect the two 
>> Nixies, you can do this by unsoldering the end of the anode resistor 
>> closest to the nixies and hook up a known good nixie to the anode resistor, 
>> wiring one of the cathodes to the same cathode on the nixies. This way you 
>> will know that you have a known good nixie there and if it still fails it 
>> must be some component in the driver chain, all the way back to the 
>> controller driving the NPN transistor.
>>
>> You can also unsolder the resistor driving the base of the NPN 
>> transistor, the end closest to the controller and then hook it up to any of 
>> the other anode drivers, if the driver works then it is the controller.
>>
>> /Martin
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I did trace the logic level signal from the CPU to the anode driver -- it's 
good all the way up to the NPN and past that thru the voltage divider 
(although harder to see) to the base of the PNP. So while I am *fairly* 
certain the PNP is the culprit, I haven't ruled out a tube yet. Resistors 
ohm out good.

Terry

On Friday, November 11, 2016 at 9:56:47 PM UTC-6, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> You might already have tried the ideas below, or already know about them 
> but I mention them anyway as I have come across those faults.
>
> You should make sure that you load the driver properly, otherwise it might 
> not show its fault as small leakage currents will be present and show you 
> the wrong voltage levels. If possible you should disconnect the two Nixies, 
> you can do this by unsoldering the end of the anode resistor closest to the 
> nixies and hook up a known good nixie to the anode resistor, wiring one of 
> the cathodes to the same cathode on the nixies. This way you will know that 
> you have a known good nixie there and if it still fails it must be some 
> component in the driver chain, all the way back to the controller driving 
> the NPN transistor.
>
> You can also unsolder the resistor driving the base of the NPN transistor, 
> the end closest to the controller and then hook it up to any of the other 
> anode drivers, if the driver works then it is the controller.
>
> /Martin
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Thank you for the suggestion... That is essentially what I was thinking as 
well, simply leakage current C-E. I've ordered 300V transistor pairs from 
Digikey.

Good news is the wife brought home a wonderful vintage Tek scope today, 
with a cart, -- digital, 150 MHz, early but with lots of capabilities for 
its' day. Model 2340A in perfect working order.  $5 as it was being 
dumpsterized soon... I may well end up with a few more. I think I can 
safely retire my 15 MHz analog Hitachi scope now.

Terry

On Friday, November 11, 2016 at 3:47:41 PM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:
>
> What might be happening in your clock is the PNP driver is damaged, and 
> only allowing a tiny amount of current through. That can still result in 
> ~170V across the tube with no visible glow. I wonder if the PNP's Vceo 
> rating is less than 170V, and it suffered from long-term exposure.
> 
> I've observed erratic behavior on 7971 nixies when the current is limited 
> to a few uA. I was attempting to measure the ionization voltage, but the 
> behavior was so erratic I cant get consistent readings. But I did notice 
> the voltage was significantly higher in this pre-ionization phase, versus 
> normal operation. For example, I would measure around 140V across the nixie 
> at 100uA (dim segment); during pre-ionization I'd see 160-180V and faint 
> erratic glowing.
>
> I'm sure other nixies show similar behavior.
>
> BTW, I used my nixie bench supply to plot I-V data in Excel for my 7971 
> nixies (7tubes * 15 segments * 7 currents = lots of data) and came across 
> this behavior.
>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I measured at both points, the traces look the same. Anode resistors 
measure OK, as do the voltage divider and pull downs, etc. 

Tubes are not socketed, and I have not tried adjusting the anode supply. 

I suspect the PNP base is open, although it measures the same as the other 
PNPs in the other two anode drivers. If the transistor is unable to turn 
on, I expected to never see 170 at the anode. But it is there. It looks 
like it decays at a faster rate than the other drivers. And I never see the 
voltage drop as one would expect when the tube ionizes, which I do see on 
the other drivers. Tells me no current is flowing, hence no lit digits of 
course. My scope is rather primitive, so not as helpful as it could be.

The board is delicate, so I'm reserving my rework attempts for a well 
reasoned diagnosis and fix. 

Tonight I'll attempt to get some pictures of the scope waveforms.

Terry

On Friday, November 11, 2016 at 10:29:50 AM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:
>
> Are you measuring the anode signal at the anode-pin of the tube, or at the 
> driver ? Always possible something went awry on the board, etc (failed 
> anode resistor, tin-whisker shorting between traces).
>
> Is the anode supply adjustable ? Try boosting it a bit to see if the tubes 
> are aging and need more voltage to ionize. Seems unlikely, though, because 
> I would expect 1, not both, tubes on the driver to fail at the same time.
>
> Are the tubes socketed ? If so, number them, remove all of them, then use 
> a good tube to check each socket one-by-one. It will provide another clue.
>
> I was thinking that one or both of the tubes that doesn't illuminate has 
> an internal short; I've seen this with IN-1's though it was always 
> cathode-to-cathode, which resulted in 2 numerals turning-on at the same 
> time.
>
> If the tubes are soldered, I would try disconnecting the anodes of both 
> suspect tubes, then reconnecting them individually to see if one of them 
> has an internal short.
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Been asked to troubleshoot a clock, 6 tubes, multiplexed 2 x 3, that is 3 
anode drivers for 6 tubes.Two of the tubes that share an anode driver are 
not lighting.

Seems pretty straightforward, repair the suspect anode driver. Standard 
high side NPN/PNP pair.

But when I put a scope on it, I do see the +170 seemingly switching. The 
waveform does look subtly different on the bad driver.

I'm scratching my head a little as to why I see switching HV at all on the 
bad tube anodes. Can anyone shove me off the plate and towards first base 
-- explain what I'm seeing? I feel a little stupid -- been troubleshooting 
over 30 years

Terry


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[neonixie-l] Re: A Rare Chance

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

It may also be simply programmed "off" and the time-out is normal

On Sunday, November 6, 2016 at 8:12:19 PM UTC-6, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> Not my listing etc etc
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-RARE-Nixie-Tube-Clock-NixiSat-GPS-Satellite-Controlled-6-WF-Z568M-G3-Tubes-/201711126931?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
>
> Nick
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: RTC chips that behave nicely with crystals

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I can only guess that the parts are counterfeit, for some reason RTCs are 
among the favorite parts for the Chinese to fake.

On Wednesday, November 2, 2016 at 2:48:48 AM UTC-5, Nixcited delighted 
wrote:
>
> On 2 Nov 2016, at 06:29, Nick wrote: 
>
> > The DS323x series are simple great chips - they may be a few $ more, but 
> it's not all about cost - lower component count, greater accuracy 
> (actually, phenomenal accuracy). 
> > 
> > What's not to like? 
> > 
> > Nick 
>
> A few more $$$s? You can buy a - DS3231 module with additional memory chip 
> for as little as $0.42 inc. free shipping. See https://goo.gl/OHVP8G. 
> That is 35 UK pence. How do they do it? I do not know. 
>
> John S 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Original evaluation PCB for the Burroughs BG12205-2 bar graph displays?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

John,

There's probably little I can teach you, it sounds like you are a seasoned 
designer as well. But for the group, here is some of what I see on the eval 
board that would not pass muster today.

1) Mid trace T's. Also off-angle T's in particular. These are frowned upon, 
especially in modern fine line designs. The T creates acid traps in the 90 
degree corners. Much better to run traces out of and thru pads -- the round 
pad effectively opens the corner and "softens" the acid traps.

2) 90s. For the same reasons, 90s are generally avoided.  Virtually every 
90 can be done with 45s.

3) Pad exits at angles other than 45 or multiples thereof. It simply makes 
for inefficient routing resource usage. Again, critical in higher density 
designs. It's also ugly.

4) Pad exits off center from the pad. These create acute inside angles, 
acid traps. Also 45s and other angle bends too close to pad exits.

5) Diode symbols done in copper -- why? Almost no other component polarity 
is marked. Also the markings here are *under* the diodes -- not very 
useful. Copper is for current - and sometimes heat.

6) IC pin 1 marking. Let's use a square pad.

7) Routing not following the golden rule -- horizontal on one layer, 
vertical on the other. This is the rule you follow when routing, then break 
during optimization. You break it to reduce vias.

I could go on with what's wrong with the layout, but it's not really fair 
to compare this design to a modern CAD generated design. This was done when 
the tools didn't exist and iterations were difficult. 

Regarding HASL -- I consider that finish obsolete. Like you said, ugly for 
lead free. Immersion Silver is a better option if you must avoid ENIG for 
cost reasons. I never liked HASL even in the lead solder days -- too often 
it caused the old glossy wet film solder masks to bubble & flake. But we 
used it.

Solder mask: The current standard is liquid photo-imageable. Dry film is 
also still popular.

Silkscreen: This is the subject of some controversy these days. Some 
designers subscribe to the new "eliminate the silkscreen for production" 
theory. I don't, but that's because I'm always the guy debugging the 
design, not just doing the layout. I want that silkscreen. I want it when 
I'm probing a board buried in a machine. I want it when a board comes back 
from the field with a burned spot... and I want it when it's rework time or 
UL testing time. I have never let my employer or client talk me into 
eliminating the silkscreen - yet. It's such a small cost adder in 
production, and believe me, your contract manufacturer (CM) likes to have 
it too.

Substrates: Too big a topic to cover here. But FR4 is obsolete there 
are a wealth of choices, consult your CM and engineers 

Terry S
CID

On Thursday, August 18, 2016 at 12:04:54 AM UTC-5, jrehwin wrote:
>
> > In the early 80's I was doing 8 mil lines & spaces, getting two traces 
> between pads on .1" spacing. It was pushing the limit of the local board 
> houses. It was also just the ticket for high speed memory boards for a 
> couple decades, until the DDR stuff came along. Now 6 mil is considered 
> large, 4 mil is the bottom size without paying for low yields. I still use 
> 8 mil on boards that can afford it, from a density standpoint. 
>
> I do 10/10 if it will fit, a lot of 8/8 and a few 6/6, but most of the 
> stuff I design isn’t terribly tight. 
>
> > Gold plating has been making a big comeback in recent years -- ENIG -- 
> or electroless nickel immersion gold. It's a good finish for lead free 
> solder.  Almost everything  I've done for 7 or 8 years now gets ENIG. At 
> many board houses it's not even a premium cost adder. It's a soft finish -- 
> not suitable for edge connectors. 
>
> ENIG is much better for high lead count surface mount packages than HASL. 
>  It’s also pretty.  I did one run of lead free HASL for a group that wanted 
> lead free but didn’t want to spring for ENIG.  It worked, but wasn’t as 
> good looking. 
>
> > PCB design has come a long way. I've been doing it 30 years now. There 
> are things done on these early PCBs that we avoid like the plague now. 
>
> Care to share?  I’m always up to learn something new.  I’ve been amazed at 
> the things that are common knowledge one place and unheard-of at another. 
>
> - John 
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Original evaluation PCB for the Burroughs BG12205-2 bar graph displays?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I am sure you are right -- notice some of the odd angles and mixed 45/90s. 
Also notice the very poor registration of the holes to pads.

In the early 80's I was doing 8 mil lines & spaces, getting two traces 
between pads on .1" spacing. It was pushing the limit of the local board 
houses. It was also just the ticket for high speed memory boards for a 
couple decades, until the DDR stuff came along. Now 6 mil is considered 
large, 4 mil is the bottom size without paying for low yields. I still use 
8 mil on boards that can afford it, from a density standpoint.

Gold plating has been making a big comeback in recent years -- ENIG -- or 
electroless nickel immersion gold. It's a good finish for lead free solder. 
 Almost everything  I've done for 7 or 8 years now gets ENIG. At many board 
houses it's not even a premium cost adder. It's a soft finish -- not 
suitable for edge connectors.

Terry

On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 12:46:11 PM UTC-5, gregebert wrote:
>
> I'm certain it's a "tape-and-donuts" PCB layout. The first CAD-developed 
> PCB's I saw in the 1980's had telltale 45-degree bends everywhere, and 
> everything else was perfectly orthogonal.
>
> Notice there are no traces going between 0.1"-spaced pads, due to the 
> primitive manufacturing capabilities at that time.
> Remember when they used to gold-plate everything ? Some were so thickly 
> plated they appeared to be solid gold.
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: One slot on my clock keeps burning out tubes, while the others have been good for years. Thoughts?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I think that it's a mechanical issue. Any electrical issue that over-drove 
the cathodes would be visually apparent during operation -- especially at 
levels that could destroy cathodes in a matter of days or weeks.

Terry



On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 9:56:44 AM UTC-5, Nick wrote:
>
> I'm with the others - there is something about this slot which 
> differentiates it from the others.
>
> Either it's a mechanical issue with the socket stressing the pins to the 
> extent the tube eventually becomes leaky
>
> ...or it's to do with the anode driver (the cathodes share the same drive 
> across all tubes) - either the anode resistor has failed in some way (or 
> isn't the correct value) or the opto-coupler is leaky/faulty (but I'm not 
> sure how that would cause premature tube failure), Vceo for a PC817 is 80V, 
> which should be OK, but this one may have failed - they are really cheap, 
> so maybe change it anyway :)
>
> Check the values of R11-R16.
>
> Have you tried the "faulty" tube in a known-good position in the clock? 
> Are you certain the tube has failed, not the surrounding circuitry cooking 
> slowly over time, then failing, then you turn the clock off to replace the 
> tube so it all cools down and the cycle repeats?
>
> Cheers
>
> Nick
>
> .
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: My NixiChron is sick, what do I do?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

You are right on the level shifters -- I didn't pick up on the VCC in an 
earlier post. 

However, regarding the schematic -- every designer has his/her own purposes 
in drawing a schematic. If I am drawing a schematic for my own use, I will 
do it differently than when I am drawing one for my company. Jeff was 
likely designing the schematic for his own use as well. He probably never 
intended for it to be used for others to troubleshoot his designs.

That's probably enough said on the topic. I am uncomfortable further 
dissecting Jeff's design practices and intents. I hope we can focus on 
getting Quincy's clock working.

Terry

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 1:35:01 AM UTC-5, Niek wrote:
>
> "It's not even a schematic error."
>
> I disagree: 
> - you want your schematic to be consistent, in this case it's clearly not 
> as most parts display their ground/power pins connected, except the 
> MAX232A. 
> - you want it to be unambiguous: obviously, it's not.
> - if you work with multiple voltage levels (but even if you don't), as 
> does this design, missing the ground/power pins just means you have an 
> incomplete schematic. You can't "debug" a product if you don't know what 
> the voltages are supposed to be, even more when you know that in parts the 
> schematic doesn't follow datasheet recommended values..
>
> "And as Pete pointed out, the HV5530's work down below 5 volts, so no 
> level shifters are necessary. This is not a design problem."
>
> Ah, so when you design things out of spec, as long as someone says it's 
> fine, you don't have to worry? Of course this is a design problem: here's 
> the datasheet of the HV5530:
> http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/HV5530%20C072313.pdf
>
> In there, you'll see the recommended operating conditions:
> VDD
> Logic voltage supply
> MIN 10.8V
> MAX 13.2V
>
> Just because it works for some samples of the HV5530, it doesn't mean 
> it'll work for all if you don't adhere to the datasheet. Note that this is 
> actually fine in this clock, but not using a level shifter is not:
>
> VIH
> Input high voltage
> MIN VDD -2.0
> MAX VDD
>
> 12 - 2 = 10, which is not 5V (or a bit lower) that the PIC will output as 
> high. You can do this of course, but then you shouldn't be surprised if it 
> fails, randomly. Or it may fail if you replace the part with one from a 
> newer batch, where a different factory process was used.
>
> Now, I'm not saying Jeff didn't make great clocks. I'm just defending good 
> engineering practices in general. He may well have made some decisions 
> after careful testing, etc. 
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Neon Signs

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

They work "well enough". But the output voltage is unspecified, so expect 
that some good tubes will not light up fully, and some bad tubes may still 
light up partially. Experience will help you tell the two apart.

Terry

On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 7:49:39 PM UTC-5, celephicus wrote:
>
> Are the cheap fluorescent testers on ebay that cost $15 or so and take 4 
> AA batteries any good? 
>
>
> Tom Harris 
>
> On 13 May 2016 at 10:43, Tom Harris  
> wrote:
>
>> I have several neon transformers that I could use for testing, one with 
>> HV leads ending in croc clips. I call it Cousin Vinnie, as if there's a 
>> problem, Cousin Vinnie will fix them :) Still a pocket tester that will  
>> not kill you outright sounds a good idea. I've seen sparkies using them to 
>> test fluoro tubes.
>>
>>
>> Tom Harris 
>>
>> On 13 May 2016 at 09:14, Nick de Smith  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Not the wrong place at all. There are Neon tube testers, small battery 
>>> powered units, that can test to see it if the tubes are OK.
>>>
>>> Where abouts are you located - there may at be a member near you who can 
>>> help or lend you a tester...
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>>>
>>> On 13 May 2016 00:02:52 BST, Tom Harris >> > wrote:

 Sorry if this is the wrong group. I have been offered a large quantity 
 of vintage neon tubes from old signs, "burgers", "restaurant" "cafe", that 
 sort of thing, together with straight & curved lines. How do I find out 
 the 
 value? I can test them.

 Tom Harris 


 
  Virus-free. 
 www.avast.com 
 
  
 <#CAHjG12SO76ezoW2S_NVL17q+vEXK5-U9=R4NPozoOEhJB-CVNA@mail.gmail.com_m_-9032026277162810837_m_1004478360147541937_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>


>>> -- 
>>> Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
>>>
>>
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Neon Signs

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Tom, the sad fact is they will have little value, unless they are specific 
to beer or automotive signs. Generic words probably won't sell now 
maybe you can get creative and construct some signs to peddle to local pubs 
or eateries... The standoffs can be purchased on-line and mounted to black 
plexiglass. The GTO wire is  little pricey but can also be found on-line, 
as can the wire caps.

Terry

On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 6:02:54 PM UTC-5, celephicus wrote:
>
> Sorry if this is the wrong group. I have been offered a large quantity of 
> vintage neon tubes from old signs, "burgers", "restaurant" "cafe", that 
> sort of thing, together with straight & curved lines. How do I find out the 
> value? I can test them.
>
> Tom Harris 
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free. 
> www.avast.com 
> 
>  
> <#CAHjG12THO=rdfpthtat=MagsXx=5QF7HdKBCwVRAteceT8Xp4g@mail.gmail.com_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: My NixiChron is sick, what do I do?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

It's not even a schematic error. Jeff used OrCad Capture, and Capture 
allows one to hide power & gnd pins. As long as they are named the same as 
the power & gnd nets, they get assigned to those nets and connectivity is 
established. They can also be made visible and assigned manually to any 
net, and there are other ways to establish connectivity.

And as Pete pointed out, the HV5530's work down below 5 volts, so no level 
shifters are necessary. This is not a design problem.

I worked with Jeff on some projects -- he was a talented and skilled 
engineer. He knew how to use the tools. 
His designs were well thought out and implemented.

Terry


On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 5:12:12 PM UTC-5, Nick wrote:
>
> On Thursday, 12 May 2016 19:30:12 UTC+1, Niek wrote:
>>
>> If that's indeed the issue, it's not surprising that the chip would break 
>> after a while, though it's still a little surprising that it would lead to 
>> this behavior. But I guess it's possible if the code isn't doing any sanity 
>> checks on the data it's receiving and perhaps even relies on it to 
>> determine when to stop writing into an array or something like that, 
>> overwriting other parts of the memory.
>
>
> The MAX232 is powered - its a schematic error - in the older (original) 
> NixiSat the OnCore unit connects via J4 - the upgraded unit uses an 
> external Haicom HI-204III GPS puck that uses J3 and the MAX232 - works just 
> fine.
>
> The bottom line is that the schematic has problems, i.e. the lack of level 
> shifters, however that should not detract from the fact that Jeff made 
> wonderful clocks, and I for one am very grateful that I've had years of 
> pleasure from my NixiSat...
>
> Hopefully, it'll keep going for many more years yet !
>
> Nick
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: My NixiChron is sick, what do I do?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

My suggestion would be to open the clock  and re-seat the processor chip, 
for starters. It is socketed.
Simple, even pressure with your thumb. Don't go crazy. Sometimes the 
contacts tarnish and a little re-seating will do the trick.

Terry

On Thursday, May 5, 2016 at 11:33:45 AM UTC-5, Quincy wrote:

> My much loved Jeff Thomas NixiChron began behaving oddly last night. And I 
> haven't a clue how to get it fixed. Who does one hire in this sort of 
> situation, how do you find someone?
>
> The problem the clock is exhibiting is pretty weird. It began to beep 
> every few minutes (it's supposed to only beep on the hour) and the display 
> began to show impossible times, like "25:34:12", and the digits would 
> change in ways not consistent with the normal passage of time. I tried 
> powering off and powering on, and it still seems like it's trying to be 
> sort of normal. Normally when you power it on it cycles the tubes back and 
> forth, and beeps, and tries to get a lock on GPS satellites to get the 
> time. And when I power it on it does cycle the tubes and does beep as it 
> does when you turn it on, but all the tubes don't cycle normally, some are 
> out, at least partly, others are on but locked on numbers, some are showing 
> multiple digits at once. 
>
> I bought it assembled.  I haven't yet opened up the clock. Sometimes I 
> can do more harm than good, so I try to explore other options first before 
> turning myself loose on the problem. Occasionally I manage to fix things, 
> but I've also lost parts, ruined components with weak soldering skills, 
> shorted out things. I want to be handy with electronics, but am more used 
> to working in computer code where a serious error can be instantly fixed 
> and undone, not real life where a slight screw up can effectively ruin 
> something you care about forever.
>
> The clock is important to me, so I'd like to get it fixed by someone who 
> is highly likely to be successful and not cause further damage. I'm outside 
> Frederick, MD (just north of Washington, DC), should that matter.
>
> Any recommendations?
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: The Light Clock Kickstarter

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Did you address your concerns with the "makers" directly and discretely 
before posting your rants all over the web? Sometimes a little tact goes a 
long ways. 

Perhaps they would have offered you some compensation or rebate that would 
have satisfied you. Likely too late now...

On Thursday, April 21, 2016 at 4:24:35 PM UTC-5, Jon D. wrote:
>
> What a disappointment and waste of $153 (shipping included) this was.  The 
> photos speak to the quality (or lack thereof) cosmetically.  This is going 
> to be a rebuild cosmetically for sure.  Holy crap !!!  The reason I am 
> sending this out is because they are trying to sell these on the open 
> market.  BUYER BEWARE.
>
> Here is what they promised: 
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1054187792/the-light-clock/description
>  
>
> (I am being very respectful here, and telling the truth, such as it is.  I 
> also sent this info to Kickstarter corporate, not that I expect them to do 
> anything about it...they already got their cut.)
>
> Just received my package for a so-called $153 Light Clock.  Aesthetically, 
> what a ripoff.  You should be ASHAMED to be associated with this !!!  What 
> a piece of sh*t!!!  Looks like a 5-year-old put their greasy hands all over 
> the the face.  This cannot be displayed in anyone's home (as is).  
>
> The face is also clearly knicked in 2 places.  And the LED strip was loose 
> on the end.  Who did the quality control?  You cannot blame shipping on any 
> of this.  THIS WAS SHIPPED IN A CRAPPY, POORLY FINISHED STATE (though the 
> box was manged a little).  Holy crap am I disappointed.  I guess this 
> cannot be the present I intended.
>
> This cannot be displayed on any wall in my home or anyone else's, not even 
> the garage.
>
> To date of all the Kickstarters I have participated in, this is hands down 
> THE WORST LOOKING piece of crap I have ever received.  WOW !!!
>
>
> I haven't even plugged it in yet.  Maybe after I cool off.
>
> Strangely, they proudly showed a photo of all of the boxes stacked up in 
> their garage prior to shipping -- so they must not have even looked in the 
> boxes because mine is complete crap visually.  
>
> I did comment on the Kickstarter page to the makers (dare I call them 
> that), to Kickstarter Corporate, as well as mentioning this on Twitter. 
>  And now I am posting here so you can all avoid this PoS as they try to 
> sell to an otherwise unsuspecting public.
>
> Live and learn...
>
> Jon
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: PIxie tube 3D socket

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Has anyone tried Sugru as a socket material?

It comes in small packets and is essentially uncured rubber. Mold it into 
any shape and 24 hours later it is set and stable. 

It seems to me that embedding socket pins into this material might work 
well, as the pins would remain at least somewhat flexible and minimize 
stress on the tube pins...

Sugru 

Terry

On Thursday, April 14, 2016 at 2:14:21 PM UTC-5, Jonathan wrote:

> HI All, 
>
> In a couple of weeks, I'm going to be helping my nephew to assemble a 3D 
> printer. One of the first projects I would like to use it for is to make 
> some B9012 Pixie tube sockets. 
>
> I've never used a 3D printer, so it is all new to me. The data sheet I 
> have has a good mechanical drawing for a starting point. Does anyone 
> know of an off the shelf product I could use for the pin sockets? I am 
> currently using some pin sockets scrounged from common old sockets, I 
> think from a 9 pin. 
>
> And any other advice would be much appreciated. If I can make something 
> that works, I should be able to help out any other list members that 
> might need some. 
>
> Jonathan 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Counterfeit RTC modules

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

By "reconditioned", do you mean counterfeit? 
Why would the markings be different? I could see if they were from an older 
batch... salvaged parts.

I got burned one time at work on counterfeit parts, bad op-amps from 
Burr-Brown. Except not really, fake parts made in China. Why would they 
counterfeit a 60 cent part?  Because they can make 55 cents on it and sell 
them by the millions.

In most applications it would never have been caught. But it was in mine, 
and caused quite a ripple back up the supply chain.

Terry

On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 11:04:43 AM UTC-6, 严泽远 wrote:

> There're so many reconditioned DS3231SN chips in China market, most of 
> them are disassembled from some old equipment, just like electricity 
> meter... I can find some RTC module list price 0.5USD with DS3231SN on it, 
> it must be reconditioned one since a new DS3231SN will over 1.5USD. But 
> it's not difficult to recognize the new one or reconditioned one, the 
> thickness and laser characters are different.
>
> Laser characters of reconditioned have wider line than real one, looks 
> rough, please check them:
>
>
>
>
> 在 2016年2月4日星期四 UTC+8下午11:04:45，gregebert写道：
>>
>> Lesson learned: You get what you pay for.
>>
>> I bought a $2 US realtime clock module on Ebay, imported from China, and 
>> the DS3231 chip appears to be counterfeit because it was not keeping 
>> accurate time. I was suspicious about the price, considering I paid almost 
>> $8 US just for the DS3231 from a reputable supplier. Over a few days, it 
>> lost about 1 hour of time.
>>
>> After replacing the chip with a genuine Maxim DS3231, it's running 
>> correctly.
>>
>> A quick web-search found there are several others who have experienced 
>> this.
>>
>> Despite having to replace the RTC chip, the module itself is still worth 
>> the price because it included a rechargeable Li-ion coin battery and a 
>> serial EEPROM (no time yet to see if that's working correctly...)
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Counterfeit RTC modules

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Greg, you really ought to inform Maxim. They may want the part.
Terry

On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 9:04:45 AM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:

> Lesson learned: You get what you pay for.
>
> I bought a $2 US realtime clock module on Ebay, imported from China, and 
> the DS3231 chip appears to be counterfeit because it was not keeping 
> accurate time. I was suspicious about the price, considering I paid almost 
> $8 US just for the DS3231 from a reputable supplier. Over a few days, it 
> lost about 1 hour of time.
>
> After replacing the chip with a genuine Maxim DS3231, it's running 
> correctly.
>
> A quick web-search found there are several others who have experienced 
> this.
>
> Despite having to replace the RTC chip, the module itself is still worth 
> the price because it included a rechargeable Li-ion coin battery and a 
> serial EEPROM (no time yet to see if that's working correctly...)
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Flip Clock with WWVB

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Thank goodness there is no seconds display! Can you imagine listening to 
that clatter once/second?

It would be trivial to come up with an interface to a normal $5 quartz 
clock movement circuit board that would drive the motors. That's what they 
do in any clock. I would program a pic or even a PAL to divide by 60 for 
the minutes. Divide by 60 again for the hours, and drive the second motor. 
Set the time at the top of the hour, connect the battery, and go. Don't 
over think it. Not every clock needs to be accurate to the second. 

I have many quartz clock movements in the house that never need to be 
corrected, except at the DST change. So they get corrected twice a year by 
default.

Terry


>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Flip Clock with WWVB

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Well WWVB yes for DST, GPS doesn't buy you that but I know exactly what 
you mean. I really like my WWVB clocks.

On Wednesday, February 3, 2016 at 11:40:14 AM UTC-6, NeonJohn wrote:
>
>
>
> On 02/03/2016 12:03 PM, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l wrote: 
> > Got it -- I should have read the description more carefully, I assumed 
> it 
> > wasn't working due to lack of the broadcast time signal. So in reality, 
> you 
> > are good to go. I still think WWVB is unnecessary on a 4 digit clock. 
>
> I have a bunch of flip panels from buses so a clock is in my future. 
> They are LOUD inside a quiet house.  What I'm thinking is 6 digit but 
> with a motion sensor that only activates the seconds when someone is 
> near.  Otherwise the seconds are blanked out and the HH:MM is shifted to 
> the center of the display. 
>
> In the bus display, each row is treated as a shift register while the 
> columns are treated as bits in a word,  A friend to whom I gave a panel 
> has figured out the driving scheme. 
>
> Even if GPS or WWVB wasn't strictly necessary, I'd have to have it just 
> to handle the switch to and from DST.  I finally got all the clocks in 
> my house changed out to WWVB clocks so now DST day is just another day. 
> > 
> > I don't trust Aliexpress, too many of the sellers are shady and there is 
> no 
> > real buyer protection. If the seller accepts PayPal then maybe you have 
> a 
> > shot. Otherwise you are just broadcasting your credit card all over 
> China. 
>
> We've had very good luck with both express and Alibaba.  A few rules. 
>
> Never ever use a credit card.  Always paypal.  I loathe paypal but I 
> have an account just for them and dxexpress.com. 
>
> ALWAYS buy or negotiate samples before buying for effect.  Many of those 
> manufacturers have no idea what they're making.  They just cloned 
> something that looked cool. 
>
> IF you're buying for effect from an Alibaba vendor, ALWAYS use an escrow 
> service.  Hard lesson learned here.  They always want the full amount 
> paid up front.  The most we'll do is pay for the raw materials.  The 
> rest goes in escrow. 
>
> If you're having something manufactured, specify every single dimension, 
> detail and step.  The last round of extrusions we had made, we forgot to 
> specify deburring the drilled holes.  Just guess what we got! 
>
> In the escrow agreement, specify that they must ship several (usually 5) 
> pieces from the finished production for our inspection before we release 
> the money.  Of course, they can "cook the book" on the samples but 
> that's better than being blind-sided.  After the extrusion debacle (the 
> samples WERE deburred), we've started requiring a video of them picking 
> samples at random. 
>
> Yeah, they're a pain in the tutu but the cost saving is worth it. 
>
> John 
>
> -- 
> John DeArmond 
> Tellico Plains, Occupied TN 
> http://www.tnduction.com<-- THE source for induction heaters 
> http://www.neon-john.com<-- email from here 
> http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net 
> https://www.etsy.com/shop/BarbraJoanOriginals  <-- Affordable Fine Art 
> Originals 
> PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] What is going on with IN18 tubes?

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Actually, if you watch ebay, very few are selling. Lots of auctions but few 
close with a sale. The price may come back to something more reasonable.

The dollar is very strong right now, it should translate to lower prices.

And of course, the IN-18 is not a commodity. It's a scarce resource that is 
not in production. Over time the price can only average up. Demand can 
drive the price up, but supply can never really drive it down, unless a 
huge hoard is revealed. 

I started designing my Arduino based IN-18 clock a year ago. Tubes were 
about $30 then. I took a hiatus from that design and recently picked it up 
again, but it may not be worth finishing. I have my own personal stash of 
tubes, but not enough to sell kits. Do I make the PCBs and write code for 
just a few clocks? I'm not sure if the market will bear the cost of clocks 
with a $350 tube price.

Terry

On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 3:27:00 PM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:

> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 1:15:30 PM UTC-8, William Lee wrote:
>>
>> Actually, if we're talking about US dollars, it has been going up against 
>> other currencies for the most part.
>>
>>
> I think it's more a matter of supply vs demand; people are apparently 
> willing to pay $350 US for six IN-18's on Ebay. There has been a roughly 
> 20% drop in the value of  Hryvnia versus the dollar over the past few 
> months, so the cost of IN-18's should actually be *decreasing* rather 
> than increasing.
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Darth Vader Nixie Tube!

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

That was awesome! An hour well spent watching this artisan.
Terry

On Sunday, January 31, 2016 at 12:05:28 PM UTC-6, Jens Boos wrote:

> Hey guys, 
>
> you have to take a look at this video, I just found it: 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIPaNFvgfEU 
>
> It is a handmade Darth Vader Nixie tube. Pretty amazing! 
>
> Cheers 
> Jens 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Microchip finally buys Atmel

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I have one of the TI Chronos 430 watch dev kits, got it at a trade show. 
Never tried it out. Maybe I played with it at the conference.

Anyone want it? You can have it for shipping.

Terry

On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 10:01:59 AM UTC-6, NeonJohn wrote:

> Just a note to thank you guys for turning me on to the MPS430 series.  I 
> spent yesterday reading.  I ordered a Launchpad and am headed to the 
> library in a few (my Hughsnet can't stand the strain this month :-( to 
> download all the tools.  I'm really lovin' it that the IDE runs on Linux 
> too, since we're an all-Linux shop. 
>
> This chip series and some of the support libraries are going to allow me 
> to remarkably simplify the product I've been working on. 
>
> Again, thanks 
> John 
>
>
> On 01/28/2016 09:21 PM, Charles MacDonald wrote: 
> > On 16-01-27 11:06 AM, NeonJohn wrote: 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> On 01/27/2016 09:22 AM, Nick wrote: 
> >>> +1 on hating the PIC "architecture". 
> >>> 
> >>> I was always an AVR man, then I discovered the MSP430 series... :) 
>
> -- 
> John DeArmond 
> Tellico Plains, Occupied TN 
> http://www.tnduction.com<-- THE source for induction heaters 
> http://www.neon-john.com<-- email from here 
> http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net 
> https://www.etsy.com/shop/BarbraJoanOriginals  <-- Affordable Fine Art 
> Originals 
> PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Microchip finally buys Atmel

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Ahhh HA! Good to know I'm not the only one who dealt with that PIC problem. 
Worked with the Microchip FAEs for months on it. I finally got them to 
admit there was a bug in the circuit prompted a revision on their part 
and a work-around on mine. It was intolerant of a non-monotonic or too 
slow power up voltage waveform I believe. I had dozens of field returned 
boards 

Terry

On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 10:21:41 AM UTC-6, MrStevenUND wrote:

> I  myself have done very little hobby microcontroller work.  My nixie 
> clock is all discrete, but I got a bunch of sample PICs before I left 
> school.  I pulled them out the other day and started wiring an xxF87 for a 
> 14 segment display and thermometer.  Haven't gotten to the code yet.
>
> At work, we use primarily MSP430s, which are easy and I should have gone 
> with for this project.  Some older projects are on a PIC.  A previous job 
> used AVR for some small things like power-up control.  Those had previously 
> been PIC but there was an issue of the PIC loosing it's programming 
> randomly (not sure any details).  
>
> It will be interesting to see how things shake out.
>
> On Wed, Jan 27, 2016 at 9:22 AM, Nick  
> wrote:
>
>> +1 on hating the PIC "architecture".
>>
>> I was always an AVR man, then I discovered the MSP430 series... :)
>>
>> Nick
>>
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[neonixie-l] Re: Scope clock artwork so far

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

David, how big is that center opening?

Terry

On Thursday, January 14, 2016 at 11:58:11 PM UTC-6, nixiebunny wrote:

> I have been doing a lot of component placement work on the new scope 
> clock board. Tetris! This is what it looks like. The six square controls 
> with equilateral triangle dots are the oscilloscope knobs, and the 
> function encoder is at bottom center. The other square pots are trimmers 
> accessible through the front panel. 
>
> The HV power supply is at upper left, deflection at upper right, V power 
> lower left, computer at lower right. A big USB-B connector is behind the 
> lower right corner. RTC battery is at bottom. 
>
> The thru-hole parts (other than controls) are rear mounted, with all SMT 
> parts on the front. There will be 5/16" standoffs in the six outer holes 
> to mount the board to the front panel. 
>
> This is a work in progress. 
>
> -- 
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Scope Clock rising from the ashes

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

So David, I have this huge NOS 5BP1 in my stash, will your kit drive such a 
monster?

Terry

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:26:10 PM UTC-6, nixiebunny wrote:

> I have a couple hundred transformers and tubes, so I can supply that many 
> clocks. 
>
> On 1/13/2016 4:09 PM, Donald Stramock wrote: 
> > Sign me up too!  How many are you planning to offer? 
> > 
> > Sent from my iPad 
> > 
>
>
> -- 
> David Forbes, Tucson, AZ 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie equipment adverts...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Now gents, she's old enough to be your grandma... let's have some respect.

That said, look how nicely that equipment fits under that rack.

Terry

On Saturday, January 9, 2016 at 9:59:41 AM UTC-6, Nick wrote:

> Just got to admire those nixies...
>
> Nick
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: LT8331 Boost Converter

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Yeah, that was my thought. It is a voltage doubler. 

I've had good luck with switching supplies, granted most have been buck 
converters... careful layout, almost always mimicking the eval board or the 
design guidelines has kept me out of trouble.

I'll let you know what I find.

On Tuesday, December 22, 2015 at 11:36:57 AM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:

> Are you considering the 240V boost converter on the datasheet ? It looks 
> suspiciously like a voltage-doubler. If you get the demo board, and explore 
> this option, I'd like to see scope pictures.
>
> Several times I've considered a switchmode supply for the HV, but after my 
> experience with the wristwatch project (and others) I found that you have 
> to spend a lot of time polishing the design with simulations, and 
> benchwork. I always find that under little or no output load, switching 
> supplies work beautifully. Once you start loading them down, ugly things 
> crawl out of the woods (noise, stray inductance, saturation, ringing, 
> heat-losses,.)
>
>  In the end, I just stick with a linear supply because it's just too 
> doggone simple and reliable.
>
>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Jeff Thomas WWVB clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

I was poking around the archived Jeff Thomas site this morning, and reading 
up on the WWVB radio controlled clock. Jeff wrote that only one was built, 
and delivered to a celeb in Vegas.

I was collaborating with Jeff on another small project back in those days, 
and he sent me a PCB & tubes to build the clock. Is it possible I have the 
only other WWVB clock of Jeff's design in existence? All this time I was 
under the impression that he had sold these clocks to others.

It uses the enormous Z568M tubes and has worked flawlessly for 13 
years. Several years ago, I fixed a problem with cathode poisoning, with 
Jeff's generous help.

Anyone else have an example?

Terry

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[neonixie-l] Re: Jeff Thomas WWVB clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Here's mine. Please excuse the reflections. 
The glue joints in the acrylic haven't aged so well. Might need to re-do 
that one day.
I hand built the wooden base.  




On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 10:56:16 AM UTC-6, Terry S wrote:
>
> I was poking around the archived Jeff Thomas site this morning, and 
> reading up on the WWVB radio controlled clock. Jeff wrote that only one was 
> built, and delivered to a celeb in Vegas.
>
> I was collaborating with Jeff on another small project back in those days, 
> and he sent me a PCB & tubes to build the clock. Is it possible I have the 
> only other WWVB clock of Jeff's design in existence? All this time I was 
> under the impression that he had sold these clocks to others.
>
> It uses the enormous Z568M tubes and has worked flawlessly for 13 
> years. Several years ago, I fixed a problem with cathode poisoning, with 
> Jeff's generous help.
>
> Anyone else have an example?
>
> Terry
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Jeff Thomas WWVB clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Michael, to avoid cathode poisoning of those expensive tubes, you'll 
want to "replace the anode resistors with 10K 1w flameproof" resistors.

I put that in quotes because that is straight from Jeff Thomas' email on 
the subject.

Also from Jeff: "Use a slightly higher voltage output AC power transformer. 
The original is 14V if I remember correctly,  and preferably select a 16VAC 
@ 500ma"

Terry


On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 7:25:08 PM UTC-6, MichaelB wrote:

> There's another one-to-be out there. I got hold of an original PCB from 
> one of our kind MOD-SIX customers and with the help of another WWVB owner 
> am currently building one. Very excited to get it running!
>
> On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 8:56:16 AM UTC-8, Terry S wrote:
>>
>> I was poking around the archived Jeff Thomas site this morning, and 
>> reading up on the WWVB radio controlled clock. Jeff wrote that only one was 
>> built, and delivered to a celeb in Vegas.
>>
>> I was collaborating with Jeff on another small project back in those 
>> days, and he sent me a PCB & tubes to build the clock. Is it possible I 
>> have the only other WWVB clock of Jeff's design in existence? All this time 
>> I was under the impression that he had sold these clocks to others.
>>
>> It uses the enormous Z568M tubes and has worked flawlessly for 13 
>> years. Several years ago, I fixed a problem with cathode poisoning, with 
>> Jeff's generous help.
>>
>> Anyone else have an example?
>>
>> Terry
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Jeff Thomas WWVB clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Very cool. The trickiest part will be the clock module mods. Have you found 
the Quartex module yet?

Terry


On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 7:25:08 PM UTC-6, MichaelB wrote:

> There's another one-to-be out there. I got hold of an original PCB from 
> one of our kind MOD-SIX customers and with the help of another WWVB owner 
> am currently building one. Very excited to get it running!
>
> On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 8:56:16 AM UTC-8, Terry S wrote:
>>
>> I was poking around the archived Jeff Thomas site this morning, and 
>> reading up on the WWVB radio controlled clock. Jeff wrote that only one was 
>> built, and delivered to a celeb in Vegas.
>>
>> I was collaborating with Jeff on another small project back in those 
>> days, and he sent me a PCB & tubes to build the clock. Is it possible I 
>> have the only other WWVB clock of Jeff's design in existence? All this time 
>> I was under the impression that he had sold these clocks to others.
>>
>> It uses the enormous Z568M tubes and has worked flawlessly for 13 
>> years. Several years ago, I fixed a problem with cathode poisoning, with 
>> Jeff's generous help.
>>
>> Anyone else have an example?
>>
>> Terry
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: New square Nixie watch

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Really like what you've done, David. The design just begs for some custom 
laser engraving as "personalization"  around the display window. What's 
pricing looking like?

Terry

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 10:45:34 PM UTC-6, nixiebunny wrote:

> Folks, 
>
> I have been working on my square Nixie watch lately. The one that I did 
> three years ago, then got distracted by running a robotics team. I 
> opened up the display window to show the tubes in their entirety. This 
> version also has water-resistant seals on all openings - even the USB 
> charging port is sealed. Dimensions are unchanged at 51 x 48 x 16mm. 
>
> It's back from the fabricators. I have ten pieces in various colors. 
> Still have to test out the PC board and program the CPU. 
>
> http://www.cathodecorner.com/nwl/index.html 
>
> It will be a bit more expensive due to the extra fancy case machining 
> required, but fine fashion accessories always cost more. 
>
> Let me know if you want one. First come, first served. 
>
> -- 
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ 
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need Nixichron!!

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Good luck the last two on ebay have hit over $1000 each. I won't part 
with mine, like it more than that.

Terry

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 2:20:05 PM UTC-6, Gary P wrote:

> I know this sounds crazy, because it is.  It is a long story but I really 
> need to find a Jeff Thomas Nixichron that I could purchase.  If there is 
> someone out there who is willing to part with a working Nixichron in decent 
> shape, it would be very special.  I am willing to pay a fair price if 
> someone would consider my plea.  If you can help, please call me at 
> 847-634-3439.  Thank You, Gary
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV-17 tube filament voltage difference (DC drive)

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Zeners across the filaments?


On Wednesday, November 11, 2015 at 3:12:42 PM UTC-6, Chaos Hydra wrote:

> Hello guys, I made an IV -17 display panel. I made the filaments five in 
> series and put them under 12VDC to get a 2.4VDC filament voltage.
> The problem is, there is a voltage difference between each tube's filament 
> as the one closer to ground goes up to 3.2VDC and the one close to 12V gets 
> to 1.6 VDC.
> As you can see in the video, the ones on the outside are much brighter 
> (close to ground).  youtube video here. 
>
> So is there anything I can do to fix the problem here? I made PCB already, 
> so there is no way I can switch to AC now. Thanks for the help!
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Useful tool on eBay...

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Works on nixies, fluorescent bulbs, neon signs.

On Sunday, November 8, 2015 at 2:31:12 PM UTC-6, charles wrote:
>
> On 15-11-08 01:23 PM, Paolo Cravero wrote: 
> > Two months have passed and I haven't yet gotten my hands on a laptop CFL 
> > driver. Still, I would like to have a battery operated "wireless" Nixie 
> > tester for flea markets like the Masonlite device. During my electronics 
> > shopping wanderings these circuits came out: 
>
> I recently got a unit simalar to this... 
>
>
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Portable-Handheld-Neon-Tube-Lamp-Fluorescent-LED-Tester-/281225125040?hash=item417a52dcb0:g:UP0AAOSwNSxVZqLf
>  
>
>
> Have not gotten beyond lighting up some NE-51 lamps that were still in 
> their package  and giving myself a accidental  Burn on my Finger 
>
> Any in site on what else it is safe to try on would be appreciated! 
>
>
>
> -- 
> Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario 
> cm...@zeusprune.ca   Just Beyond the Fringe 
> No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail. 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Painting Nixies

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Sounds like a good paint for repainting neon sign tubes as well what 
other colors did you find?

Terry

On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 8:43:56 AM UTC-5, Kyle Jones wrote:

>
> I'm new here, but thought I would share something I found a few weeks ago.
>
> I noticed when people ask about painting nixies red there is a lot of talk 
> about dipping them and such but I found a spray that is working wonders. 
> It's VHT Niteshades and meant for use painting tail lights. There is a 
> black one that all the annoying people that cover their tail lights with 
> black paint use but there is also a red one. The can sprays a nice vertical 
> line of paint so its easy to cover where you want. It must have a chemical 
> in it to make it cling evenly to surfaces because even spraying a side of a 
> round tube, turning it, and repeating until it was all covered the coating 
> was immaculate.
>
> It's a tough material and doesn't scratch off easily at all. When you 
> spray it the liquid goes a bit hazy for a couple of minutes and then clears 
> right up.
>
> Attached are photos of IN-12s(my sucker group, can't stand the upside-down 
> 2 for a 5) with no paint, 1 coat, and 2 coats and a 6CB6 with two coats I 
> painted next to a Z574M factory paint tube.
>
>
>
> 
>  
> 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT - Panel Meter

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

An old color CRT tester would be ideal, they are cheap if not free at swap 
meets.
 
Terry
 

On Tuesday, July 28, 2015 at 11:42:39 AM UTC-5, Michail wrote:

  I have done a couple (analog) Panel Meter clocks (I know, not nixie - 
 sorry).
  
 I was thinking of using an old voltmeter with big meter for a single 
 needle clock, but don't think it will be very good for a 'clock'.
  
 Searching the webz, I can't find what I am looking for.
  
 Does anyone know of an old meter which has 3 meters in it? (As big as 
 possible)
  
 Michail
  


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Re: [neonixie-l] One-Bit Digital Clock

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Does it? Or is that just the way you perceive it?

On Tuesday, July 21, 2015 at 4:38:26 PM UTC-5, I wrote:

  I don't know when I last laughed so hard, or had such a big smile on my 
 face. I think that's just great. VERY creative. I really like when you 
 reverse the decatron, it stops going 'tick-tock',,,and instead goes 
 'tock-tick'.   LOL.  Good for you, and many thanks, Ira.




 On 7/21/2015 1:35 PM, PsyPhi wrote:
  
 Hello everyone! I've been lurking on this list sporadically for a few 
 months, and now that I have something specific to share/contribute I 
 decided to join.
 I've been a mad scientist all my life, and have always been fond of 
 tubes. After seeing several examples of nixie clocks on the web, I wanted 
 to build one of my own. Using all tubes, of course. Soon I realized that 
 the RD was going to be much more fun than the actual implemention. 
 Deriving a stable 1-Hz clock pulse from the 60-Hz power line (yeah, I'm in 
 the US), dividing/counting pulses, driving the nixie tubes - all exciting 
 challenges. But wait, after I get one digit working I have to make 5 more 
 just like it to actually display the time? Too tedious for someone as ADHD 
 as myself. So I settled on a one-digit design - no, still too tedious - how 
 about just one bit? Display only zero and one, but precisely synchronized. 
 Great; I can do that much. But the result would be kinda boring. If it 
 doesn't tell time, it should at least go tick-tock like a respectable 
 clock. So this is what I came up with:
 Time Machine on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seaAFlPyKX8

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[neonixie-l] Re: F9020 Nixies

['Terry S' via neonixie-l]

Can you post pictures of the clock?
 
Terry
 

On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 9:43:17 AM UTC-5, Raymond Koonce wrote:

 I have an acquaintance who is looking for some F9020 Nixies to repair a 
 vintage Patek Philippe clock. It has 7 tubes and he would like to find 
 enough of the tubes to have a spare set or two. Any ideas/sources?  Cost is 
 not a big issue.

 TIA

 Raymond


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