[neonixie-l] Nixie tubes, Power supplies and ICs for sale
Hello all, I've gathered some tubes and related electronics over time, in hopes of building clocks, and meters and things, but I just don't have time. I'm raising funds for another project, so I'm selling my Nixie stuff. I have 11 IN-14 10 IN-1 12 IN-2 3 power supplies from Tayloredge 2 IN-9 bargraph tubes and 34 74141 ICs I'll offer this stuff here first, if anyone is interested, send me an offer. Thank you all Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAN0ECS%3DqAaYyseu6w2dFCnfgVB_GZJKi5Q1co1ZZw5WEvS3D4A%40mail.gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Anybody want to build some nixie tubes?
Who wants to go halfsies? On Feb 19, 2013 1:05 PM, Nicholas Stock nickst...@gmail.com wrote: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261172534593?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Saw thisprobably one of the most interesting listings on eBay I've seen in a while... Go on, who's got 40K to spend and wants to make some IN-18's? ;-) Nick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Off topic Circuit for automatic cat door.
Dont get so self righteous about animals. Do you drive a car? look at all the poor little animals splattered on your windshield. Get over it. On Sat, Dec 29, 2012 at 7:58 AM, glasslinger rons...@att.net wrote: I had the same problem and used an induction coil on the cat food bowl. Doesn't hurt the cat but they never go back to that bowl again! I wouldn't cut the cat's whiskers (or claws) off. That is really harming them. On Thursday, December 27, 2012 11:07:29 PM UTC-8, Raymond Weisling wrote: About 1977 I had two cats and a 24/7 cat flap, but a stray was coming in during the night and getting food left for the residents. I breadboarded a cat discriminator. It used two telephone relay coils that could detect a small magnet passing between them, added to the cat collars and a light bulb plus detector (photoresistor). If the magnetic signal was triggered and a cat entered, it was a resident, if the non-resident entered, not wearing the magnet, it sounded an alarm. I added larger flap made from cardboard and a solenoid that allowed the large flap to fall and close off the smaller flap so no exit was possible. The no-exit flap solenoid was actually manually energized by touching two wires together on the end of a cable that ran to my bedroom. Everything was rather crude. I expected that I needed it once. After I installed it I tested it with my cats with and without collars and it seemed to work well. That same night at around 02:00 the alarm sounded, I touched the wires together, the larger flap fell and I went out. The non-resident, hearing me stirring, made a mad dash for the door and hit the large flap covering the bidirectional flap. I tried to catch this panicking cat, and in the process the breadboard and the lamp, photoresistor and coils all came undone from their temporary mounts. It was a jumble. The non-resident had to be chased around the house, leaping up at closed windows, and eventually I caught him, and trimmed off his whiskers with a scissors. This is a very powerful yet harmless reminder since they depend on them for feeling for passages that their body can get through. (A fellow cat lover told me that once they trimmed off their cat's whiskers and the can would be ware of going from room to room in the house especially if the door was partly closed leaving a narrow gap.) They will be disoriented for some months until new whiskers grow back. A good reminder. I finally opened the door and released the non-resident, who seemed to traverse the back yard that was a least 15 meters (or 40-some feet) long in three or four leaps. He never again appeared. The damaged cat discriminator was summarily taken apart. I remember using LM324 and LM 339 in the circuit. One of the cats was a great hunter, and I lived north of the San Fernando Valley in foothill areas (Newhall, CA) where some ground squirrels lived. My hunter cat, a gentle calico, would bring home slain squirrels and leave various parts somewhere in the house as a token of her skill, for me to find and clean up when I got home. This happened on a nearly daily basis one spring. Eventually it stopped and I found that the nearby colony has been totally exterminated by my calico. For a while I had wondered what it would take to build a prey discriminator that could block her entry only when she carried a victim, but even now I suspect that that is a much greater challenge. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/0BcqG-UuPrYJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: GeekKlok and FLW up for grabs
Good on you Ray! One step closer to redemption. Though I probably won't benefit from your products, I'm sure some in this group will. Here's to a better future! On Dec 6, 2012, at 1:29 AM, Raymond Weisling zetalink@gmail.com wrote: I have tested the waters and find it infested with hungry gators and crocs. ;-) So here is what I will do. I will give away all intellectual property for these several products and variations thereof. That includes: 1. PCB artwork in Gerber files for the single board and the newer split boards (very few were made--more below on that). 2. PCB artwork files, if anybody wants them, but they are for the first desktop PCB CAD program issued in 1984 for Macintosh and still apparently supported as of about five years ago,(Douglas Electronics) 3. Source code for FLW, GKK and the GAM. 4. Object code in Motorola S19 files. 5. Several TKD case designs made from acrylic plastic that is laser cut to shape. 6. The user manuals and other buyer documentation in PDF form and in FreeHand 8 files (the originals from which the PDFs are made. It may not be easy to use the FH8 files, but the stuff is there. 7. Other assorted documents. I'm not sure what miscellaneous stuff is there, haven't looked for a while. This Google group has no files section, so where to send it or upload it? It will take me some time to sift through it and perhaps reorganize it and then ZIP/RAR it. I am not sure how much time I have, it could take a week or so. -- I still have some parts, lots of Mill-Max socket pins (which fit many nixies) but these would have to go to someone and whoever gets them will have to pay for shipping and maybe a tad more. There are a few PCBs both large and split, but I am not at this point (today) going to do a detailed inventory. Let's toss this physical offer around. Any suggestions? It is likely that whoever wants this has no debt from me, so they get a gift of sorts. You may ask questions on what I think is there. Thanks -- Ray -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/NOMSQA_98zIJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Digest for neonixie-l@googlegroups.com - 4 Messages in 2 Topics
How many of you got an e-mail from Ray after you bought a kit or clock, telling you what happened? Or that you weren't getting what you paid for? He gladly took, and kept the money, and ran. On Dec 5, 2012, at 9:35 AM, westdave westd...@aol.com wrote: ray you did do a ponzi scam you did try to cover your losses by running a two-fer sale of kits .i bet the money just poured in to buy two FLWC at a good price ,i fell for it , as you know I got nothing .. and i AM STILL HERE, I AM AROUND TO TALK TO ! if you were reachable to the USA you would have a class action law suit on you hands , so you have doged the bullet so far?poison pen ? i don't think so ,I hope you don't come sleezing around this fine group of fellows with all your blue jazz.and say,all of us ,other vendors never had your kind of BS -Original Message- From: neonixie-l neonixie-l@googlegroups.com To: Digest Recipients neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Sent: Tue, Dec 4, 2012 11:53 pm Subject: [neonixie-l] Digest for neonixie-l@googlegroups.com - 4 Messages in 2 Topics Today's Topic Summary Group: http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/topics - GeekKlok and FLW up for grabs #group_thread_0 [3 Updates] - Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s #group_thread_1 [1 Update] GeekKlok and FLW up for grabshttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/t/cb16adf026590cf4 Raymond Weisling zetalink@gmail.com Dec 04 07:09PM -0800 I feel it is only reasonable that I defend myself from the poison pens that gathered. The history is that my company went bankrupt, or was forced to close its doors. These nixie product were not al all the main business We did new product design engineering for a US-client that made health care signal systems and they were my client (before I formed a corporation) from 1990 to 1999, with one assistant working with me. In 1999 things with them were looking better and I had some money to invest in forming a limited liability corporation here in Indonesia. I then hired four engineers and we kept this client in California happy until 2005 or 2006. Then they were bought out by Tyco International, and for about a year we kept running but suddenly they gave us notice that they were moving everything and merging with Simplex Time Recorder in Massachusetts, where they already had 80+ engineers. My 4-man team meant nothing to their bottom line. At that point we began working with a local company that made traffic lights and took them on as a client. After about five months of work, they were unable to pay close to $5000 in invoices, and we had to stop. I had to take care of my staff during this time of promises from the other company, but when it was clear that they were unable to pay (they were cheated out of $40,000), my staff quit one by one, because I was forced to pay their salaries late. This is where the whole thing unraveled. Several times I tried to recover and eek out a living with the nixie products, but with too little capital to invest and sudden expenses from some health emergencies, we were in a spiral. Debts piled up. I'm paying interest of 30-40% oer year on some debts, which makes it very hard to climb out of a slimy hole. I'd love to pay everyone back and I never had any intention to cheat or defraud anyone ever. (Someone said hundreds of customers who didn't get products, but the total is probably about 50-70.) As for loss of sales data and no loss of engineering materials, the engineering materials were on two old Macintosh computers, one of which is still working at age 12. The sales stuff was in a PC Windows machine that got hit by lightning surge, in a different part of the house, quite removed from the other. We had the old Zetalink office in a separate garage, and that is where I put kits tohether, did assembly of units and packed orders for shipping. That's where both telephone and electric power lines entered the premises. The engineering files in my Mac were in a second floor bedroom converted to an office, quite separated, and protected with a good surge protector. (The adjoining room had some non-nixie things and that's the room where a whole wall collapsed in the May 2006 earthquake, more ton a ton of debris was all over the contents. That earthquake was only 5.9 magnitude, but killed about 6000 people (on my own Dwelling Unpreparedness Index (DUI) it was the third worst worldwide earthquake since 1945). I just want to see that these products continue on and can help pay off some of my local debts where interest is so high. A hospital project coming up may provide enough funds for refunds to people, but the banking details for it have been delayed for six months or more. I just don't want to cheat anyone, never did intentionally, and certainly have no interest in doing
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: GeekKlok and FLW up for grabs
Crawl back under your slimy rock Ray. No ones buying. On Dec 2, 2012, at 7:43 PM, Raymond Weisling zetalink@gmail.com wrote: Also I would include a number of different drawings for laser-cut acrylic cases that are very attractive, both for the large board and split PCB versions. These are FreeHand or Corel-draw files that any laser cutting operation can do. These cases also could be sold to retrofit to existing FLW/GKK units -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/q3geAbf93oAJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Newbie 74141 help
You need to bring the binary pins high or low. You've got them floating. Get a datasheet for the chip, and add voltages to the ABCD pins, in the proper configuration. There is a binary chart, as well as corresponding binary to pin layout, on that datasheet. On Sep 24, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Sean sean4s...@gmail.com wrote: I'm trying to figure out how a 74141 IC works, but it's making me feel stupid. Please keep in mind that i am completely new to electronics and circuits. Help?!? I've got a 74141 on a breadboard. Based on the datasheets and nixie clock schematics I've been studying I put 5vdc at pin 5 and pin 12 to ground. Right now I'm just trying to light up an LED (some nixies are coming in the mail). So I connected the LED to the 5v and to the 0 output at pin 16. Since all four inputs are at no power shouldn't this light the LED. Please tell me I'm just doing something stupid. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/iufh07zGeP4J. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] ATTENTION !!!! maybe Nixie cheater at Ebay
Member since April 2011, and NO FEEDBACK?! Yeah, I'd stay away too. On Aug 20, 2012, at 3:09 PM, Dieter Waechter i...@nocrotec.com wrote: BE CAREFUL!!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=130752003847item=130752003847lgeo=1vectorid=229466 DO NOT BUY FROM HIM! Dieter -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Nixie flash drive
That would end up being a large-ish flash drive, what with, tube, power supply, and circuit. On Sat, Feb 4, 2012 at 1:25 PM, kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com wrote: I wonder if anybody made flash drives that would have tini nixie tubes at the end (something like IN-17) It would look just really nice when you would stick the drive in the computer and then he digits would start to randomly fade/flash or something. Sadly i do not have the skill to figure that out how to make it by myself, but id love to see it if it was already done. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Merry Christmas
Marry Christmas to all!!! Sent from my iPhone On Dec 24, 2011, at 7:01 AM, fixitsan chefin...@gmail.com wrote: I would just like to wish all group members a Happy Christmas It is 10 years ago that I began my first experiments with nixie tubes, when I decided that I wanted to make a nixie clock for my father's 60th birthday present. So, beginning in November I ordered tubes, some PICs, downloaded Microchip's MPLAB for the first time and taught myself assembly language for PICs. It was a steep learning curve considering the 10 week deadline, but I couldn't afford a higher level language so battled on. Then my interest continued with an invite from Ray Weisling to join the first nixie group, NEONIXIE-L on Yahoo, when he saw me selling clock number 2 on eBay, which I made in order to pay for both clocks. It is nice to see so many of those members are also here, and with you there is also a huge number of new people with an interest in nixies. It is nice to know that so many people share an interest with yourself ! Although I built the first clock alone, it is true to say that I would not have improved my skills or opened my mind to some very interesting ideas had it not been for my membership of that group, and the support, the nagging, challenges and humour shared among all members there, and now here. I seem to have taken those ideas sideways into developing the Smartsocket concept, originally for neon based tubes and now for the IV-17 vfd tubes which I first began experimenting with in 2007. (it has been a slow project !) Merry Christmas and the best of the season to you all and your families Chris -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14
I use heatsink tweezers when I solder IN14s. I've never had an issue with a seal failure. On Sep 5, 2011 1:19 PM, Ryan McDonald mcdonald.r...@gmail.com wrote: I've heard that soldering the leads on IN-14's can cause premature seal failure. I've also heard that staying at least 5mm from the glass largely mitigates this problem. Can anyone make any recommendations concerning the soldering (or makeshift socketing) of IN-14's? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] How about this weather... I ran out of memory!?! HA!
Thank you sir, I'll do some reading tonight. It's my annual birthday night off so i can actually read, and have a chance that I will retain it. Gosub here I come. Shane On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote: yep, you're right, you need to learn about subroutines. Basically, you need: 1) a main loop 2) a subroutine that increments the time (time is kept in a variable [or a few variables, if you like]) 3) a subroutine that displays the time (that it found in the time variable) This is all part of the learning process. You're doing great, but I would definitely work on the software before adding an eeprom. -Adam On 7/26/2011 12:20 PM, Shane Ellis wrote: Here is my basic BASIC code. I haven't added the seconds yet, nor a way to set the minutes. I was going to start this breadboarded clock at ten o'clock and let it run for a while, then get into the settings code later on, after I know my timing coding is good. I'm assuming the gosub commands will help me save a lot of white space and memory, I just wanted to get these four tubes going, to keep my spirits up, and keep me motivated :) code is as follows: -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@** googlegroups.com neonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GBhttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] How about this weather... I ran out of memory!?! HA!
No no no, the memory is much larger, the program I wrote is probably very primitive, and large. I overran the available memory BY 408 bytes. Picaxe is good for me, because I don't know another language, and don't really have time to devote to learning. BASIC does present coding challenges, but I like the problem solving aspect presented there. @Dennis, I'm hoping the Picaxe manuals will cover the eeprom connection, as an easy memory addition. I looked and for some reason, I have a couple 24LC256 in my programming stuff box, after the youngins go to bed, I'll figure out how to set this up. I should probably try to shrink my program as well... Shane On Sun, Jul 24, 2011 at 3:14 PM, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote: Holy smokes. Are you serious? The maximum onboard program memory on the picaxe is 408 bytes? .. I don't mean to sound like a religious fanatic, but exactly what is the advantage of this platform? I understand that people like to use them to program their clocks in basic.. but it seems like you're losing all of that ease of learning if it means needing to understand how to interface in an i2C EEPROM. Am I missing something? If it was me, I would take this opportunity to switch platforms to the arduino. -Adam On Sun, Jul 24, 2011 at 11:53 AM, Mimewar mime...@gmail.com wrote: It's funny, in the if it's not one thing, it's another kind of way. I got two tubes running (0-99), then three(0-999) I get to four, all is well, then I write my entire clock code( no seconds yet), go to program the picaxe, and BAM, program is too large by 408 bytes. So now, I get to (have to) get familiar with Eeproms. On the plus side, I removed a chunk of code ( time after 9:00), and it runs just fine with the four tubes. First time I have ever had four tubes running, and working. Eeproms, here I come. Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: How often does a 74141 go bad, or arrive dead?
I never really thought of these older ICs having seals, but it makes sense, in the sandwich sense. I looked at one of the Fairchild 74141s, and where the epoxy is sandwiched between the ceramic, sure enough, there's a hole in there. I thought it was a bubble, but using a high tech tool called a needle I poked the bad chip, and it goes a ways in. Shame. I have two other Fairchild chips to use (test first), and then I have about twenty Russian K1551D1 in stock. Fingers crossed Shane On Fri, Jul 22, 2011 at 10:08 PM, Terry S tschw10...@aol.com wrote: I'm starting to see a dramatic increase in the rate of failure on old chips like that, both at home and in my lab at work where I have drawers full of old TTL and CMOS -- in anti static packaging. I think that the hermetic seal of the IC packages are breaking down over the decades. Typically the legs show high rates of tarnish on the failure prone chips, but I see that on good chips as well. I suspect the failure rate will go up. It doesn't bode well for a lot of old equipment and computers that employ these parts. Terry On Jul 22, 8:08 pm, Mimewar mime...@gmail.com wrote: I'm up to three tubes, (coding takes longer than wiring) funny thing is, the first 74141 (Fairchild I assume by the capitol F) wouldn't display 5 or 6, so I swapped it for another, this time the 4 stays on all the time. I tried a third, and that one works. I have caps added across all ICs, and the third try worked. Is this common? Are the Russian 74141s better than the US? Thanks Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers
Capacitors still kind of confuse me, and the terminology has me scratching my head. I understand what they do, but calculating them is still something I don't understand. When you say next to and IC, do you mean from the +5V, to ground? Resistors I got, Capacitors frustrate me... Shane On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 4:16 AM, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote: Decoupling should be done EVERY time on EVERY chip - analogue or digital - right adjacent to the supply pins. It costs pretty much nothing, and saves a whole bunch of trouble. Just do it. Part of the need to do this is that chips today are much much faster than they used to be, so where frequency response would roll off before oscillation, nowadays even standard opamps can have GBWs in the MHz to 10s of MHz range, and logic goes far far higher. On the analogue side, I'm currently restoring some Quad amps - the amount of pure twaddle on the www about using loony opamps like the OPA627 and much faster (in audiophoolery faster = better) class A drivers output stages - recipe for high-frequency instability - the circuit were designed to use the inherent limits of the original devices. Maybe I'll just spend 1000 bucks on some speaker cables and unidirectional 99.9% OFC internal cabling. Not. Nick On Jul 21, 9:50 am, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Hi, (2) Sprinkle capacitors across power and ground all over your circuit. Preferably as close to the power and ground pins of each chip as possible. Usually they're 0.1uf (100nf) ceramic capacitors. Some big chips require you to use several near them, so read you datasheets. Chips are fast. Very fast. They can either generate very brief short circuits (in the ballpark of 10nS), and/or be susceptible to these very short glitches on the power rails. I cannot stress enough how much pain this will spare you. I recently built a combined volt- and amperemeter with a 2x16 LCD readout on a rather small pcb, and I did point-to-point-wiring like I always do, and it did not want to work. Some weird oscillations at the volts ADC. The first thing I did was inserting a 100nF cap next to every (!) IC, and bam, problem solved. Jens -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers
Wow, thank you for the headache so early in the morning! I got my one tube circuit working, but going to a much larger uC, and more tubes, more noise is bound to come up, so now that I know how to decouple with caps, I'll be sure to add them. Thank you all. Such a great group. I hope you all know how sincerely I appreciate the help. I'm in love with glowing glass, and I'm in love with arcane technology. Without you guys, I'd still be trying to figure out power supplies, and binary decoding. Shane On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 9:14 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: ** Hi Shane, When you say next to and IC, do you mean from the +5V, to ground? Yep. There are some IC sockets who have a 100nF capacitor connected from the pin on the bottom left to the pin on the top right, i.e. the most common IC power pins. Resistors I got, Capacitors frustrate me... It is not that hard to understand: Capacitor act just like resistors for AC. The higher the frequency, the more current can flow through a capacitor. The complex impedance is Z := 2*Pi*(-i)/f*C, where f is frequency in Hertz, C is the capacity in Farad and i is the imaginary basis, e.g. i^2 = -1. This just means that the impedance (the resistance, basically) approaches zero if the frequency approaches infinity. In our example: Really fast disturbances can be seen as some very high frequency (look at the Fourier transform of the signal). These disturbances will be shorted by the small capacitor of 100nF due to their high frequency, so that this high frequency does not corrupt your circuit. Slow signals are not affected. In the other limes, the frequency is zero (i.e. DC signals), so the impedance is infinite. We already know that: Capacitors do not conduct DC current. Hope this helps. Best regards, Jens On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 4:16 AM, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote: Decoupling should be done EVERY time on EVERY chip - analogue or digital - right adjacent to the supply pins. It costs pretty much nothing, and saves a whole bunch of trouble. Just do it. Part of the need to do this is that chips today are much much faster than they used to be, so where frequency response would roll off before oscillation, nowadays even standard opamps can have GBWs in the MHz to 10s of MHz range, and logic goes far far higher. On the analogue side, I'm currently restoring some Quad amps - the amount of pure twaddle on the www about using loony opamps like the OPA627 and much faster (in audiophoolery faster = better) class A drivers output stages - recipe for high-frequency instability - the circuit were designed to use the inherent limits of the original devices. Maybe I'll just spend 1000 bucks on some speaker cables and unidirectional 99.9% OFC internal cabling. Not. Nick On Jul 21, 9:50 am, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Hi, (2) Sprinkle capacitors across power and ground all over your circuit. Preferably as close to the power and ground pins of each chip as possible. Usually they're 0.1uf (100nf) ceramic capacitors. Some big chips require you to use several near them, so read you datasheets. Chips are fast. Very fast. They can either generate very brief short circuits (in the ballpark of 10nS), and/or be susceptible to these very short glitches on the power rails. I cannot stress enough how much pain this will spare you. I recently built a combined volt- and amperemeter with a 2x16 LCD readout on a rather small pcb, and I did point-to-point-wiring like I always do, and it did not want to work. Some weird oscillations at the volts ADC. The first thing I did was inserting a 100nF cap next to every (!) IC, and bam, problem solved. Jens -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to
[neonixie-l] neonixie-l, Shane Ellis wants to chat
I've been using Google Talk and thought you might like to try it out. We can use it to call each other for free over the internet. Here's an invitation to download Google Talk. Give it a try! --- Shane Ellis wants to stay in better touch using some of Google's coolest new products. If you already have Gmail or Google Talk, visit: http://mail.google.com/mail/b-d9b565a15d-0b3f5959e6-CMHoynIhYl7lXB-2_JP_4wKAmY0 You'll need to click this link to be able to chat with Shane Ellis. To get Gmail - a free email account from Google with over 2,800 megabytes of storage - and chat with Shane Ellis, visit: http://mail.google.com/mail/a-d9b565a15d-0b3f5959e6-CMHoynIhYl7lXB-2_JP_4wKAmY0 Gmail offers: - Instant messaging right inside Gmail - Powerful spam protection - Built-in search for finding your messages and a helpful way of organizing emails into conversations - No pop-up ads or untargeted banners - just text ads and related information that are relevant to the content of your messages All this, and its yours for free. But wait, there's more! By opening a Gmail account, you also get access to Google Talk, Google's instant messaging service: http://www.google.com/talk/ Google Talk offers: - Web-based chat that you can use anywhere, without a download - A contact list that's synchronized with your Gmail account - Free, high quality PC-to-PC voice calls when you download the Google Talk client We're working hard to add new features and make improvements, so we might also ask for your comments and suggestions periodically. We appreciate your help in making our products even better! Thanks, The Google Team To learn more about Gmail and Google Talk, visit: http://mail.google.com/mail/help/about.html http://www.google.com/talk/about.html (If clicking the URLs in this message does not work, copy and paste them into the address bar of your browser). -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers
Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I'll remove the current limiting resistor to the 74141, I'll check the Picaxe, and 74141, and I'll simulate my code to make sure pins are going high low at the same time. I'll check in later Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:48 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Hi, I think the problem can be circled fairly easy: Create some sample code that is supposed to have the Nixie tubes read out a static 12:48 for example. Then check the corresponding BCD inputs on each chip. If the right number appears there (in BCD format, that is) and the chip displays a wrong number, then most likely the chip is defective. If you realise there are already the wrong numbers on the BCD inputs then you might want to recheck your wiring and coding. It sounds really obvious, sorry for that, but this is the first thing I do when this happens, and it happens more often than one would actually presume. One of my favourites was when I had a software-internal bit shift that made all my numbers about twice as low as intended ;-) I thought it was a circuit issue. So you might want to check out your software as well. Jens Am 20.07.2011 11:05, schrieb Terry Kennedy: On Jul 20, 1:20 am, Shane Ellismime...@gmail.com wrote: It's an IN-14. I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on December 23rd. I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and still this one is acting buggy. I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let everyone know what, if anything, I figured out. Are using the Soviet K155ID1 decoder / driver? There was a bad batch of those which caused all sorts of havoc. It could probably happen in the non-Soviet parts, too. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@** googlegroups.com neonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GBhttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers
Unbelievable. I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7 What is going on!? Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:48 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Hi, I think the problem can be circled fairly easy: Create some sample code that is supposed to have the Nixie tubes read out a static 12:48 for example. Then check the corresponding BCD inputs on each chip. If the right number appears there (in BCD format, that is) and the chip displays a wrong number, then most likely the chip is defective. If you realise there are already the wrong numbers on the BCD inputs then you might want to recheck your wiring and coding. It sounds really obvious, sorry for that, but this is the first thing I do when this happens, and it happens more often than one would actually presume. One of my favourites was when I had a software-internal bit shift that made all my numbers about twice as low as intended ;-) I thought it was a circuit issue. So you might want to check out your software as well. Jens Am 20.07.2011 11:05, schrieb Terry Kennedy: On Jul 20, 1:20 am, Shane Ellismime...@gmail.com wrote: It's an IN-14. I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on December 23rd. I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and still this one is acting buggy. I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let everyone know what, if anything, I figured out. Are using the Soviet K155ID1 decoder / driver? There was a bad batch of those which caused all sorts of havoc. It could probably happen in the non-Soviet parts, too. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@** googlegroups.com neonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GBhttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers
Unfortunately, i'm still at the breadboard stage, so no soldering yet. I forgot a lot about nixies, and programming, so I'm taking baby steps. Keep these suggestions coming, eventually we'll figure it out. Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:40 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: ** Maybe some bad soldering? Happened to me several times. Jens Am 20.07.2011 15:07, schrieb Shane Ellis: Unbelievable. I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7 What is going on!? Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:48 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Hi, I think the problem can be circled fairly easy: Create some sample code that is supposed to have the Nixie tubes read out a static 12:48 for example. Then check the corresponding BCD inputs on each chip. If the right number appears there (in BCD format, that is) and the chip displays a wrong number, then most likely the chip is defective. If you realise there are already the wrong numbers on the BCD inputs then you might want to recheck your wiring and coding. It sounds really obvious, sorry for that, but this is the first thing I do when this happens, and it happens more often than one would actually presume. One of my favourites was when I had a software-internal bit shift that made all my numbers about twice as low as intended ;-) I thought it was a circuit issue. So you might want to check out your software as well. Jens Am 20.07.2011 11:05, schrieb Terry Kennedy: On Jul 20, 1:20 am, Shane Ellismime...@gmail.com wrote: It's an IN-14. I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on December 23rd. I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and still this one is acting buggy. I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let everyone know what, if anything, I figured out. Are using the Soviet K155ID1 decoder / driver? There was a bad batch of those which caused all sorts of havoc. It could probably happen in the non-Soviet parts, too. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers
I was wondering about eddie currents, and crosstalk, but I have everything as isolated as I can on the breadboard. hmmm On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:46 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: ** What do you use for connective wires? When they are poorly insulated against each other and they touch at some point, you might get some crosstalk that disturbs your BCD signal. Jens Am 20.07.2011 15:42, schrieb Shane Ellis: Unfortunately, i'm still at the breadboard stage, so no soldering yet. I forgot a lot about nixies, and programming, so I'm taking baby steps. Keep these suggestions coming, eventually we'll figure it out. Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:40 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Maybe some bad soldering? Happened to me several times. Jens Am 20.07.2011 15:07, schrieb Shane Ellis: Unbelievable. I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7 What is going on!? Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:48 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Hi, I think the problem can be circled fairly easy: Create some sample code that is supposed to have the Nixie tubes read out a static 12:48 for example. Then check the corresponding BCD inputs on each chip. If the right number appears there (in BCD format, that is) and the chip displays a wrong number, then most likely the chip is defective. If you realise there are already the wrong numbers on the BCD inputs then you might want to recheck your wiring and coding. It sounds really obvious, sorry for that, but this is the first thing I do when this happens, and it happens more often than one would actually presume. One of my favourites was when I had a software-internal bit shift that made all my numbers about twice as low as intended ;-) I thought it was a circuit issue. So you might want to check out your software as well. Jens Am 20.07.2011 11:05, schrieb Terry Kennedy: On Jul 20, 1:20 am, Shane Ellismime...@gmail.com wrote: It's an IN-14. I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on December 23rd. I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and still this one is acting buggy. I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let everyone know what, if anything, I figured out. Are using the Soviet K155ID1 decoder / driver? There was a bad batch of those which caused all sorts of havoc. It could probably happen in the non-Soviet parts, too. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers
This is in fact binary, I'm using the four outputs on my micro as the 4 high/low signals on the 74141. Something unusual though. I unplugged the ground to the 74141, and it still displayed the 4,5,6,7... For some reason, I'm not getting a proper ground at the 7805 volt regulator. I'll rewire the grounds, and see what I can figure out. Thanks all Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:46 AM, micha...@aol.com wrote: ** Well, not knowing the schematic... If you were binary at some point and had the 4bit high, that would give you the 4,5,6,7 instead of 0,1,2,3 Michail In a message dated 7/20/2011 6:42:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mime...@gmail.com writes: Unfortunately, i'm still at the breadboard stage, so no soldering yet. I forgot a lot about nixies, and programming, so I'm taking baby steps. Keep these suggestions coming, eventually we'll figure it out. Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:40 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: ** Maybe some bad soldering? Happened to me several times. Jens Am 20.07.2011 15:07, schrieb Shane Ellis: Unbelievable. I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7 What is going on!? Shane .com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers
the battery was for the schematic, and initial breadboard testing. Thank you for the input though! Wall wart power the tube nicely. Now, to move to a bigger uC, and get four tubes running ( and singing) Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 12:36 PM, neutron spin mrstan...@charter.netwrote: I have a minor comment on the circuit designIf you are going to use a battery the 7805 will waste power. How can this be avoided? One fix would be to use a Low-dropout regulator...using the walwart of course you are not concerned with battery life. Rergards Robert On 20 July, 11:47, Shane Ellis mime...@gmail.com wrote: John, you lead me on the right path. I never bothered to replace the uC on the breadboard ( I assumed it worked due to the functioning numbers, and the fact that it took the program) Replaced the uC, and BINGO! we have a steady functioning tube counting from 0-9. Thank you everyone for your help! I have a few new ideas to check in the future, thanks to your suggestions. WOOHOO! Shane On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 10:07 AM, John Rehwinkel jreh...@mac.com wrote: On 7/20/2011 9:07 AM, Shane Ellis wrote: Unbelievable. I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7 What is going on!? Sounds like the low 3 bits are connected correctly, and the high bit is not connected. TTL chips like the 74141 will pull their inputs high if unconnected. - John KG4L -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@ ** googlegroups.com neonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/** group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] wrong numbers
It's an IN-14. I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on December 23rd. I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and still this one is acting buggy. I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let everyone know what, if anything, I figured out. Shane On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 11:06 PM, J Forbes jforbnos...@selectric.orgwrote: Is it a biquinary tube? :) Shane Ellis wrote: the only digits that light up, are 2, 3, 6, and 7, but those should be 0, 1, 2, and 3. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] oscilloscope blues
It's a Tenma 72-320. I assume it's analog, by the age, and weight. It's got a handle on top, and weighs about ten pounds. Thanks for the info, I'll check that out. Shane On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 12:58 PM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Hello Shane, that depends a little on the scope I would say. Is it digital, is it analog, does it have a built-in logic analyzer, does it weigh 5 tons or 100g? ;-) For the basic ideas, this is one of the first links that Google lists: http://www.doctronics.co.uk/**scope.htmhttp://www.doctronics.co.uk/scope.htm Regards, Jens Does anyone here, know of a good I have an oscilloscope, but don't have a clue how to use it guide? I have had it for over a year, and now that I'm getting into more programming, analog/digital, and logic circuits, I need to figure it out. Any help? Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@** googlegroups.com neonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GBhttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: oscilloscope blues
I found a few older versions, and I cannot thank you enough! I may not have the fanciest scope money can buy, but for my purposes, it'll do juust fine. Again, this group comes to the rescue. Shane On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 5:29 PM, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote: You'll be wanting a copy of Tektronix's XYZs of Oscilloscopes - This has been in free production for many many years and is continually updated, to the extent that there is almost no analogue stuff in recent editions. The latest version is at http://www.tek.com/Measurement/programs/301913X312631/index1.html (free signup required) You will have to scout the web for a version that is from about 2000 or before to get the analogue side - I have a PDF from 2002 which has some analogue content. Whatever version you end up with, its an excellent document on 'scopes, how to use them, what they are good for, and what they are rubbish at. Nick On Jul 17, 6:37 pm, Mimewar mime...@gmail.com wrote: Does anyone here, know of a good I have an oscilloscope, but don't have a clue how to use it guide? I have had it for over a year, and now that I'm getting into more programming, analog/digital, and logic circuits, I need to figure it out. Any help? Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Free PicKit 2 Not really Nixie, but I want to offer this to a Nixie fan...
the PicKit 2 has been spoken for as well. Thank you sir! On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 10:47 AM, Mimewar mime...@gmail.com wrote: I program in Basic, and use the Picaxe platform ( not the best of the best, but it works for my programming level) Anyway, I bought a PicKit 2 from Micrichip a year or so ago thinking I would learn C. That never happened, and probably won't for some time. If anyone would like a Pickit 2, some microcontrollers, and other odds and ends I can't use with Picaxe, pay 5$ for shipping, and it's yours FREE, no scam, no strings attached, no shady deal. I want someone who needs it to be able to use it. Thanks Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Dekatrons
I'll take it under advisement. If I start on those, that's one more thing I have to explain to my wife. Too many projects... On Fri, Jul 15, 2011 at 2:41 PM, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote: Hold onto those. :) VFD's are different than nixies, true, but they're not that hard to drive. Plus, those are 16-segment so you can work on your 16-segment practice clock before building your B7971 version. :D -Adam On 7/15/2011 12:34 PM, Shane Ellis wrote: I think I'll stick to the nixies, and neon bulbs for now. I bought some IV-17s without any forethought, and those are a whole other animal. If anyone wants them, they can have them cheap. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@** googlegroups.com neonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GBhttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OB3 voltage regulators
Drat, and double drat. I was really hoping I had some defective tubes here. they look pretty and purple in the dark, but not so much with the lights on. Oh well, I'll stick to neon, and nixies I guess! Thanks! Shane. On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 1:03 AM, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote: On 7/13/11 10:47 PM, Mimewar wrote: Does anyone here have any experience with the OB3 voltage regulator tubes? I have a set of four, and one works, but it's not nearly as bright as I have seen in pictures. I am feeding it 175V, at about 60mA current. Any ideas? Shane Cameras lie. Photos of glowing things are often much more glowy than the same objects appear to the eyeball. -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@** googlegroups.com neonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GBhttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Nixie tube Ornament- - - COMPLETED!
My first nixie project is completed! Thanks to a lot of you who helped me, and gave advice along the way. I felt so proud and amazed that My first circuit, and then layout, and then circuit board works! I used a Picaxe 08M for the controller, and the usual 74141(Russian) to drive a IN-14 Nixie. It displays the date of 12-25-2010, with a little flair. I have photos and 2 videos to post, that are on photobucket, and I'll be posting the better pics in the files section later. Thank you all for the help, again. Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tube Ornament- - - COMPLETED!
Here are all the photos for the project, and a couple videos as well. Thanks guys! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/mimewar/Nixie%20ornament/ On Dec 7, 2:41 pm, Shane Ellis mime...@gmail.com wrote: My first nixie project is completed! Thanks to a lot of you who helped me, and gave advice along the way. I felt so proud and amazed that My first circuit, and then layout, and then circuit board works! I used a Picaxe 08M for the controller, and the usual 74141(Russian) to drive a IN-14 Nixie. It displays the date of 12-25-2010, with a little flair. I have photos and 2 videos to post, that are on photobucket, and I'll be posting the better pics in the files section later. Thank you all for the help, again. Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: power supplies, and your preferences
I am dreadful at layouts. Can you send a pic, or give me an idea how you laid yours out on a board? I keep trying to route this myself, and it is not going well. Thanks Shane On Oct 27, 10:18 am, Per Jensen elektronikbik...@gmail.com wrote: On 27/10/2010, at 15.15, Shane Ellis wrote: I agree with you. Aesthetically speaking, I like to build my own parts. For the prototyping purposes, I don't mind using others. I have the tayloredge HVPS, and love it. I'm a month or so away from my frist clock, and want to build my own HVPS. Where can I get some information on Mike's MC34063 mk1.5 Sounds like a digikey order is in my future. Thanks Shane Hi Shane. Look here. http://irqxcq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pKSgv5IGT4Jy1FgmYmEMohZtv4y4qJj... Works wonderfully for me, very good efficiency and low heat. // Per. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Large tubes - advice needed for not getting swindled on ebay
If this is your first, and you're looking to get your feet wet, why not try an easier, cheaper tube, like the IN-14. direct solder, or wire pins, no socket, side display, and much MUCH cheaper than IN-18s I'm new to this, but these are what I have been using. On Wed, Nov 3, 2010 at 9:53 PM, Steve Scorn sskillc...@gmail.com wrote: Dear group; As per most starter nixie clock builders; I've been looking at IN-18 size tubes, approx 40mm high, and my God they are expensive! I've found a listing for a Philips ZM1040 sold ex Russia on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ZM1040-TESLA-nixie-tube-red-1pc-/220690126115?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3362281523#ht_818wt_1139 $50! Does it make sense that a Philips (Dutch?) tube would be sold ex Russia? There is also this style of auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/NIXIE-TUBE-Z566M-ZM-1040-SIMILAR-7-UNITS-USED-TESTED-/270658049958?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2hash=item3f047a17a6#ht_500wt_1156 Very low on detail but not too crazy a price. 7 for $120 = $17 a tube. Too good to be true? Old tubes sold as NOS? All help appreciated. Steve -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comneonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Nixie doctor needed.
I moved up to a larger PICAXE, all is going well, except, I went to two tubes, and the new tube is...well... sickly looking. I double, and quintuple checked the connections, but as you will see in the attached photos, something is wrong. Half the digits light up fine 0-4, but 5-9, well, look terrible. they half light, and have bright blue spots at several points on the digit. Bad tube? Internal short in the tube? Thanks everyone, and sorry if I post too much, my desire for illuminated tubes is great! Shane http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/mimewar/Nixie%20and%20programming/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: power supplies, and your preferences
Adam, I love these for prototyping, but I want something more pleasing to the eye for the actual clock. Thanks Shane On Tue, Oct 26, 2010 at 11:15 PM, Steve sskillc...@gmail.com wrote: There's a pretty good run down here: http://www.tayloredge.com/storefront/SmartNixie/PSU/comparison.html Steve On Oct 26, 9:09 pm, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote: I've been a big fan of Mike's MC34063 mk1.5 design for quite a while. It's cheap (less than $5 in parts). It's simple to put together, not finicky like the MAX1771's. It's also flexible. I understand that the tayloredge drop-in switchers are very popular on this list, but for me, I just hate to see a piece of purchased PCB sitting on something that I designed.. It looks out of place, and to me it kind of feels like I couldn't figure out how to do that part, so I bought a solution... Of course, that is only my preference, others have their own favorites. -Adam On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 1:41 PM, Jon dekat...@nomotron.com wrote: On Oct 25, 8:37 pm, Shane Ellis mime...@gmail.com wrote: what does everyone prefer for powering their clocks? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comneonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Nixie doctor needed.
IN-14, very good! I connected the second tube the same way I connected the first, and the other tube works fine. I coded the second tube the same as the first, and I get all this blobbiness, and blue spots. I'll check voltages, and report back. Shane On Wed, Oct 27, 2010 at 8:17 AM, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote: Hello Shane, hmm, maybe the driver does not work well enough? If the digits that are supposed to be off have a potential that is near ground, they might light up. Check the voltage on the faulty digits accross ground. My first guess was - without seeing the pictures - that you had tried to drive a biquinary Nixie tube as a normal one. Biquinary Nixie tubes have 0 and 1, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, you know, all even and odd numbers connected in parallel with two anodes. This way they have a standard noval socket, but require a different kind if handling. But it looks o me as though your tube was an IN-14, right? Jens -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comneonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] power supplies, and your preferences
what does everyone prefer for powering their clocks? Has anyone ever used a camera flash power supply? Any easy to make HVPS out there? Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem.
I'm using a Picaxe 08M, and an IN-14 tube, a standard 74141 driver, and a Tayloredge power supply. I had a similar problem some months back, and the fix I used last time, isn't cutting it this go round. When pin 4 goes high (output) both the Zero, and Nine light up at the same time. I know my code is good, and all my grounds are good, the legs of the HVPS, the 74141, and the Picaxe are all grounded by way of capacitor. I checked all voltages, all measure about 4.95V, and the current sits at 1.30mA in low state and 0V when in high state. All other numbers, 1-8, work perfectly, but the two digits that require pin 4, don't work properly. Any suggestions? Something I overlooked? Dumb mistake I made? Thanks Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] ghosting? 5 stays partially lit
I am getting back to my clock, after a couple months off. I reasssembled the circuit as I had it before on breadboard, and now the 5 digit stays partially lit during the whole cycle of zero to nine. common causes? Thanks Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Logic ICs... I think free to whomsoever wants them.
I have a small IC caddy full of ICs I believe to be logic ICs. Look a the link I have attached, the pics are high resolution, so you can make out part numbers. If you want them, let me know, they are of no use to me. Pay for the shipping, and they will be delivered promptly. I only ask the favor of a few minutes of your time on the subject of Nixie tubes. Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More Homemade Tubes
I would KILL for that arc welder he is using! Aside from that, all the other tools he is using, look like they could be found, or fabricated easily enough. Aside from the time it would take, a Nixie could be made at home. The only thing I see having a problem with, is the Neon, and sealing the envelope properly. Thanks for the great video! On Sat, Oct 2, 2010 at 7:33 PM, DennisNAS daddyvan2...@yahoo.com wrote: Another great video. I love watching these guys do their stuff. Would be fun to visit and have some first hand experience. Thanks Mike. On 2 Oct, 15:51, mjrippe mjri...@gmail.com wrote: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x3wrzo_fabrication-d-une-lampe-triod... This fellow shows all of the steps for making a triode at home (if your house is filled with the right equipment). Nixie related bit at 14:45. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comneonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
