Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Paolo Cravero]

Hello.

On Sat, May 22, 2021 at 9:22 AM 'Ian Vine' via neonixie-l <
neonixie-l@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Any chance the documentation could be shared to all?
>
> Thanks Ian
>

Aliexpress proposed me the kit today even if it is sold out. At the bottom
of the description (https://bit.ly/3yNgelV) was the link to the
documentation: http://www.mediafire.com/file/4j8cwf8ty3ixn5n/file

HTH,
Paolo

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[gregebert]

UPDATE 2: Both boards are complete, everything connected together. I was 
unable to get a visible trace on the CRT. Voltages seem correct, but for 
some reason the fuse protecting the filament blew out. Filament did not 
blow as confirmed by continuity. I need to investigate further, and will 
need to get some slow-blo fuses before I power-up again. The fuses that 
came in the kit were unmarked, so I have no idea what it was, or it's 
characteristics. Only info is what is printed in the docs. The CRT 
datasheet says 150mA at 6.3 Vrms (same as DC).

I will be measuring filament I-V characteristics tomorrow, then decide what 
fuse is best. Powering-up the CRT without a fuse (eg, shorting it out or 
using a larger value) is NOT going to happen. I might have to wait to 
power-on again  after I get some replacements thru DigiKey.



On Saturday, May 22, 2021 at 10:44:18 AM UTC-7 Paolo Cravero wrote:

> Hello.
> My boards take about 10W input, that is ~800mA at 13V. Without a CRT 
> connected the current drops to ~470mA.
>
> A word of caution to current builders. Q6, Q9, Q12 and Q15 (all MPSA44) on 
> the PSU board get pretty hot. I measure 60°C on the top of their plastic 
> case! Even without a CRT connected. Please do check yours if they heat up 
> like mine! Possible solutions besides a small heatsink?!
>
> Paolo
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Paolo Cravero]

Hello.
My boards take about 10W input, that is ~800mA at 13V. Without a CRT
connected the current drops to ~470mA.

A word of caution to current builders. Q6, Q9, Q12 and Q15 (all MPSA44) on
the PSU board get pretty hot. I measure 60°C on the top of their plastic
case! Even without a CRT connected. Please do check yours if they heat up
like mine! Possible solutions besides a small heatsink?!

Paolo

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[gregebert]

For copyright reasons I wont post them; the seller emailed them to me 
within 24 hours so if you dont have them in your kit, be sure to contact 
them so they know about the problem.

On Saturday, May 22, 2021 at 12:22:17 AM UTC-7 iavine wrote:

> Any chance the documentation could be shared to all? 
>
> Thanks Ian
>
> On 22 May 2021, at 04:14, Bill Stanley  wrote:
>
> 
>
> OK, that was quick. Opened the box, all parts appeared to be in good 
> shape, but no documentation of any kind. If I could prevail on the other 
> builders for a copy of the instructions/schematics, it would speed up my 
> build.
>
> Thanks;
>   -Bill-
>
>
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 6:23:56 PM UTC-7 Bill Stanley wrote:
>
>> Toss another kit on the barbie
>>
>> My kit arrived today so I will be building it over the weekend. Watching 
>> the comments closely.
>>
>>   -Bill-
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 5:14:24 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> I have an Aneng UT61e; cheap but quite good. One of my scopes has a pair 
>>> of 100x probes that lets me look at a few kV, but I was too lazy to bring 
>>> it up today. If I run into problems I'll post some screenshots.
>>>
>>> After installing the diff-amp transistors and Q1, current-drain 
>>> increased to 360mA.
>>>
>>> I suggest you bench-test your power-supply board by itself first; 
>>> disconnect all cables, and jumper J5-4 and J5-5 together to enable the HV 
>>> supply. Make sure all generated voltages are correct, especially the 300V 
>>> supply (should be around 305V per the instructions).
>>>
>>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 4:10:55 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>>>
 Paying full attention - what model DMM do you have if you can't 
 directly connect it? I have an 87V I'm happy to connect as it's rated for 
 1KV.

 On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:38:27 PM UTC+1 gregebert wrote:

> UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some 
> basic testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the 
> diff-amp that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV 
> supply can be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the 
> inverter to run and the current is 170mA. The neon bulb is on and it's 
> supply is 306V; the +5 and -5 supplies also work. The filament supply 
> voltage on my scope is about 500kHz, somewhat sinusoidal, and about 17V 
> pk-pk, which is about 6.3 Vrms for a pure sinusoid. The HV is beyond the 
> range of my DMM so I had to put a 10meg resistor in-series to double the 
> range (inaccurately, because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 
> VDC.
>
> Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned.
>
> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>
>>
>> I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a 
>> solderbridge, no luck.
>>
>> Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, 
>> it's what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or 
>> B 
>> comparions for anything standing out.
>>
>> I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U 
>> inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides.
>>
>> There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe? 
>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote:
>>
>>> John,
>>> pictures of my build are here: 
>>> https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html
>>>
>>> The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, 
>>> but the smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the 
>>> effect was on the CRT.
>>>
>>> I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a 
>>> ground point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a 
>>> while to solder.
>>>
>>> Paolo
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Paolo,

 no filament glow after one minute powered on,

 both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown

 I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.

 Which voltage regulator did you reverse?

 -- 

>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups "neonixie-l" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
 send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.

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 .

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

['Ian Vine' via neonixie-l]

Any chance the documentation could be shared to all? 

Thanks Ian

> On 22 May 2021, at 04:14, Bill Stanley  wrote:
> 
> 
> OK, that was quick. Opened the box, all parts appeared to be in good shape, 
> but no documentation of any kind. If I could prevail on the other builders 
> for a copy of the instructions/schematics, it would speed up my build.
> 
> Thanks;
>   -Bill-
> 
> 
>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 6:23:56 PM UTC-7 Bill Stanley wrote:
>> Toss another kit on the barbie
>> 
>> My kit arrived today so I will be building it over the weekend. Watching the 
>> comments closely.
>> 
>>   -Bill-
>> 
>> 
>>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 5:14:24 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:
>>> I have an Aneng UT61e; cheap but quite good. One of my scopes has a pair of 
>>> 100x probes that lets me look at a few kV, but I was too lazy to bring it 
>>> up today. If I run into problems I'll post some screenshots.
>>> 
>>> After installing the diff-amp transistors and Q1, current-drain increased 
>>> to 360mA.
>>> 
>>> I suggest you bench-test your power-supply board by itself first; 
>>> disconnect all cables, and jumper J5-4 and J5-5 together to enable the HV 
>>> supply. Make sure all generated voltages are correct, especially the 300V 
>>> supply (should be around 305V per the instructions).
>>> 
 On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 4:10:55 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
 Paying full attention - what model DMM do you have if you can't directly 
 connect it? I have an 87V I'm happy to connect as it's rated for 1KV.
 
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:38:27 PM UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
> UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some basic 
> testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the 
> diff-amp that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV 
> supply can be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the 
> inverter to run and the current is 170mA. The neon bulb is on and it's 
> supply is 306V; the +5 and -5 supplies also work. The filament supply 
> voltage on my scope is about 500kHz, somewhat sinusoidal, and about 17V 
> pk-pk, which is about 6.3 Vrms for a pure sinusoid. The HV is beyond the 
> range of my DMM so I had to put a 10meg resistor in-series to double the 
> range (inaccurately, because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 
> VDC.
> 
> Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned.
> 
>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>> 
>> I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a 
>> solderbridge, no luck.
>> 
>> Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, it's 
>> what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or B 
>> comparions for anything standing out.
>> 
>> I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U 
>> inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides.
>> 
>> There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe?
>>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote:
>>> John,
>>> pictures of my build are here: 
>>> https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html
>>> 
>>> The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, but 
>>> the smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the 
>>> effect was on the CRT.
>>> 
>>> I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a 
>>> ground point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a 
>>> while to solder.
>>> 
>>> Paolo
>>> 
>>> 
 On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  wrote:
 Hi Paolo,
 
 no filament glow after one minute powered on,
 
 both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown
 
 I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.
 
 Which voltage regulator did you reverse?
>>> 
 -- 
>>> 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups "neonixie-l" group.
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> 
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Bill Stanley]

OK, that was quick. Opened the box, all parts appeared to be in good shape, 
but no documentation of any kind. If I could prevail on the other builders 
for a copy of the instructions/schematics, it would speed up my build.

Thanks;
  -Bill-


On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 6:23:56 PM UTC-7 Bill Stanley wrote:

> Toss another kit on the barbie
>
> My kit arrived today so I will be building it over the weekend. Watching 
> the comments closely.
>
>   -Bill-
>
>
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 5:14:24 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:
>
>> I have an Aneng UT61e; cheap but quite good. One of my scopes has a pair 
>> of 100x probes that lets me look at a few kV, but I was too lazy to bring 
>> it up today. If I run into problems I'll post some screenshots.
>>
>> After installing the diff-amp transistors and Q1, current-drain increased 
>> to 360mA.
>>
>> I suggest you bench-test your power-supply board by itself first; 
>> disconnect all cables, and jumper J5-4 and J5-5 together to enable the HV 
>> supply. Make sure all generated voltages are correct, especially the 300V 
>> supply (should be around 305V per the instructions).
>>
>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 4:10:55 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>>
>>> Paying full attention - what model DMM do you have if you can't directly 
>>> connect it? I have an 87V I'm happy to connect as it's rated for 1KV.
>>>
>>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:38:27 PM UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>>
 UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some 
 basic testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the 
 diff-amp that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV 
 supply can be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the 
 inverter to run and the current is 170mA. The neon bulb is on and it's 
 supply is 306V; the +5 and -5 supplies also work. The filament supply 
 voltage on my scope is about 500kHz, somewhat sinusoidal, and about 17V 
 pk-pk, which is about 6.3 Vrms for a pure sinusoid. The HV is beyond the 
 range of my DMM so I had to put a 10meg resistor in-series to double the 
 range (inaccurately, because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 
 VDC.

 Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned.

 On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:

>
> I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a 
> solderbridge, no luck.
>
> Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, 
> it's what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or B 
> comparions for anything standing out.
>
> I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U 
> inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides.
>
> There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe? 
> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote:
>
>> John,
>> pictures of my build are here: 
>> https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html
>>
>> The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, but 
>> the smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the 
>> effect 
>> was on the CRT.
>>
>> I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a 
>> ground point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a 
>> while to solder.
>>
>> Paolo
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Paolo,
>>>
>>> no filament glow after one minute powered on,
>>>
>>> both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown
>>>
>>> I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.
>>>
>>> Which voltage regulator did you reverse?
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>>> send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
>> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3f6e2a4a-ed6d-485d-9ccc-a0dfc157b451n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Bill Stanley]

Toss another kit on the barbie

My kit arrived today so I will be building it over the weekend. Watching 
the comments closely.

  -Bill-


On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 5:14:24 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:

> I have an Aneng UT61e; cheap but quite good. One of my scopes has a pair 
> of 100x probes that lets me look at a few kV, but I was too lazy to bring 
> it up today. If I run into problems I'll post some screenshots.
>
> After installing the diff-amp transistors and Q1, current-drain increased 
> to 360mA.
>
> I suggest you bench-test your power-supply board by itself first; 
> disconnect all cables, and jumper J5-4 and J5-5 together to enable the HV 
> supply. Make sure all generated voltages are correct, especially the 300V 
> supply (should be around 305V per the instructions).
>
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 4:10:55 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>
>> Paying full attention - what model DMM do you have if you can't directly 
>> connect it? I have an 87V I'm happy to connect as it's rated for 1KV.
>>
>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:38:27 PM UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some basic 
>>> testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the diff-amp 
>>> that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV supply can 
>>> be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the inverter to 
>>> run and the current is 170mA. The neon bulb is on and it's supply is 306V; 
>>> the +5 and -5 supplies also work. The filament supply voltage on my scope 
>>> is about 500kHz, somewhat sinusoidal, and about 17V pk-pk, which is about 
>>> 6.3 Vrms for a pure sinusoid. The HV is beyond the range of my DMM so I had 
>>> to put a 10meg resistor in-series to double the range (inaccurately, 
>>> because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 VDC.
>>>
>>> Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>>>

 I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a 
 solderbridge, no luck.

 Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, 
 it's what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or B 
 comparions for anything standing out.

 I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U 
 inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides.

 There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe? 
 On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote:

> John,
> pictures of my build are here: 
> https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html
>
> The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, but 
> the smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the effect 
> was on the CRT.
>
> I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a 
> ground point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a 
> while to solder.
>
> Paolo
>
>
> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  wrote:
>
>> Hi Paolo,
>>
>> no filament glow after one minute powered on,
>>
>> both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown
>>
>> I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.
>>
>> Which voltage regulator did you reverse?
>>
>> -- 
>>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>> send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>
> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3f6e2a4a-ed6d-485d-9ccc-a0dfc157b451n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[gregebert]

I have an Aneng UT61e; cheap but quite good. One of my scopes has a pair of 
100x probes that lets me look at a few kV, but I was too lazy to bring it 
up today. If I run into problems I'll post some screenshots.

After installing the diff-amp transistors and Q1, current-drain increased 
to 360mA.

I suggest you bench-test your power-supply board by itself first; 
disconnect all cables, and jumper J5-4 and J5-5 together to enable the HV 
supply. Make sure all generated voltages are correct, especially the 300V 
supply (should be around 305V per the instructions).

On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 4:10:55 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:

> Paying full attention - what model DMM do you have if you can't directly 
> connect it? I have an 87V I'm happy to connect as it's rated for 1KV.
>
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:38:27 PM UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>
>> UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some basic 
>> testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the diff-amp 
>> that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV supply can 
>> be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the inverter to 
>> run and the current is 170mA. The neon bulb is on and it's supply is 306V; 
>> the +5 and -5 supplies also work. The filament supply voltage on my scope 
>> is about 500kHz, somewhat sinusoidal, and about 17V pk-pk, which is about 
>> 6.3 Vrms for a pure sinusoid. The HV is beyond the range of my DMM so I had 
>> to put a 10meg resistor in-series to double the range (inaccurately, 
>> because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 VDC.
>>
>> Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned.
>>
>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a 
>>> solderbridge, no luck.
>>>
>>> Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, it's 
>>> what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or B 
>>> comparions for anything standing out.
>>>
>>> I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U 
>>> inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides.
>>>
>>> There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe? 
>>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote:
>>>
 John,
 pictures of my build are here: 
 https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html

 The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, but 
 the smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the effect 
 was on the CRT.

 I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a 
 ground point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a 
 while to solder.

 Paolo


 On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  wrote:

> Hi Paolo,
>
> no filament glow after one minute powered on,
>
> both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown
>
> I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.
>
> Which voltage regulator did you reverse?
>
> -- 
>
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>
 To view this discussion on the web, visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3f6e2a4a-ed6d-485d-9ccc-a0dfc157b451n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>


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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

Paying full attention - what model DMM do you have if you can't directly 
connect it? I have an 87V I'm happy to connect as it's rated for 1KV.

On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:38:27 PM UTC+1 gregebert wrote:

> UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some basic 
> testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the diff-amp 
> that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV supply can 
> be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the inverter to 
> run and the current is 170mA. The neon bulb is on and it's supply is 306V; 
> the +5 and -5 supplies also work. The filament supply voltage on my scope 
> is about 500kHz, somewhat sinusoidal, and about 17V pk-pk, which is about 
> 6.3 Vrms for a pure sinusoid. The HV is beyond the range of my DMM so I had 
> to put a 10meg resistor in-series to double the range (inaccurately, 
> because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 VDC.
>
> Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned.
>
> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>
>>
>> I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a 
>> solderbridge, no luck.
>>
>> Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, it's 
>> what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or B 
>> comparions for anything standing out.
>>
>> I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U 
>> inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides.
>>
>> There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe? 
>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote:
>>
>>> John,
>>> pictures of my build are here: 
>>> https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html
>>>
>>> The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, but 
>>> the smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the effect 
>>> was on the CRT.
>>>
>>> I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a 
>>> ground point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a 
>>> while to solder.
>>>
>>> Paolo
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  wrote:
>>>
 Hi Paolo,

 no filament glow after one minute powered on,

 both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown

 I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.

 Which voltage regulator did you reverse?

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 .

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[gregebert]

UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some basic 
testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the diff-amp 
that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV supply can 
be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the inverter to 
run and the current is 170mA. The neon bulb is on and it's supply is 306V; 
the +5 and -5 supplies also work. The filament supply voltage on my scope 
is about 500kHz, somewhat sinusoidal, and about 17V pk-pk, which is about 
6.3 Vrms for a pure sinusoid. The HV is beyond the range of my DMM so I had 
to put a 10meg resistor in-series to double the range (inaccurately, 
because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 VDC.

Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned.

On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:

>
> I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a 
> solderbridge, no luck.
>
> Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, it's 
> what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or B 
> comparions for anything standing out.
>
> I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U 
> inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides.
>
> There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe? 
> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote:
>
>> John,
>> pictures of my build are here: 
>> https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html
>>
>> The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, but the 
>> smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the effect was 
>> on the CRT.
>>
>> I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a ground 
>> point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a while to 
>> solder.
>>
>> Paolo
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Paolo,
>>>
>>> no filament glow after one minute powered on,
>>>
>>> both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown
>>>
>>> I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.
>>>
>>> Which voltage regulator did you reverse?
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "neonixie-l" group.
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>>> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3f6e2a4a-ed6d-485d-9ccc-a0dfc157b451n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a 
solderbridge, no luck.

Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, it's 
what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or B 
comparions for anything standing out.

I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U 
inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides.

There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe? 
On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote:

> John,
> pictures of my build are here: 
> https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html
>
> The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, but the 
> smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the effect was 
> on the CRT.
>
> I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a ground 
> point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a while to 
> solder.
>
> Paolo
>
>
> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  wrote:
>
>> Hi Paolo,
>>
>> no filament glow after one minute powered on,
>>
>> both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown
>>
>> I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.
>>
>> Which voltage regulator did you reverse?
>>
>> -- 
>>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "neonixie-l" group.
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>> email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3f6e2a4a-ed6d-485d-9ccc-a0dfc157b451n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Paolo Cravero]

John,
pictures of my build are here:
https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html

The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, but the
smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the effect was
on the CRT.

I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a ground
point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a while to
solder.

Paolo


On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow  wrote:

> Hi Paolo,
>
> no filament glow after one minute powered on,
>
> both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown
>
> I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.
>
> Which voltage regulator did you reverse?
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[gregebert]

60V on the indicator bulb (NL1) indicates the transformer is being driven, 
but you cant tell if the HV is high enough; can you measure VCC_300 to see 
if it's in the ballpark ?

Can you scope-out pins 1 & 2 of the transformer to see what kind of 
waveform is present for the filament supply ? 

I'm going to start building mine tonight now that I have enough info 
(thanks John !).

On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 3:49:23 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:

> Hi Paolo,
>
> no filament glow after one minute powered on,
>
> both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown
>
> I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb.
>
> Which voltage regulator did you reverse?
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Paolo Cravero]

Hello.

Is the filament glowing visibly after one minute of power on?

Is the filament fuse still good? Can you confirm current flows there?

If all above check positive, in dark room do you see the green shade of the
beam out of the screen?

My kit draws less than 2A, I am quite sure. 650 mA go to the filament (1A
before conversion?!), the rest for HV. Is there any component getting hot?
I reversed a voltage regulator...

Paolo


Il Mer 19 Mag 2021, 23:31 John Snow  ha scritto:

> Tried it with a 12V 3A and 12V 4A power supply, can't get either 8SJ31J
> tube I have to light up from turning R21 Intensity.
>
> Both power board orange bulb and control's red led light up though,
>
> I've ordered a 12V 5A power supply hoping that'll sort it.
> On Wednesday, 19 May 2021 at 21:31:08 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
>
>> Forwarded the documentation on, rotary control board turned up, I'm on to
>> calibration
>>
>> On Wednesday, 19 May 2021 at 20:01:19 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> My kit arrived today WITHOUT instructions. Damn!   If anyone has an
>>> electronic copy, please let me know. I'm contacting the seller. Nothing I
>>> could find on their website. But at least I dont have to worry about the
>>> CRT connections because they prewired it for me.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:59:23 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>>>
 Assembled all of it & somehow managed to misplace the rotary control
 board.

 They've made a few near-substitutions in the parts list, notably the
 XYZ board part #46 - 1 piece 510K is now a 1M resistor, this was the last
 one I soldered, presuming uprated intentionally.

 There's a few more with non-standard banding, but multimeter confirmed
 values.

 Also the Control board has downrated the capacitance of #6 from 330pF
 to 300pF and of parts #9 - now 10V instead of 16V rating, presumably
 availability.

 The fuses are 1A and 2A fast-acting fuses, annoyingly must be
 desoldered after they've blown, unsure of the voltage tolerance.

 Hoping the control board turns up, otherwise I have a paperweight I
 can't tune.

 On Tuesday, 18 May 2021 at 18:29:09 UTC+1 Pruttel wrote:

> Replying to myself: since I couldn't attach, I've put two photos
> online: https://possob.xs4all.nl/sylvania/
>
> Any help is appreciated!
>
> Iwan
>
> On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:14:56 PM UTC+2 Pruttel wrote:
>
>> Since this is a CRT topic, I thought I'd ask it here: I got a
>> rectangular Sylvania CRT at a HAM flea market quite some time ago, but I
>> cannot find any info on it. I wanted to attach a photo of the tube + 
>> label,
>> but the google website won't let me? The type is SC3015P1B, serial 
>> 2391113.
>> Googling that type gets me nowhere, except supplier-partslists. It might 
>> be
>> military supply?
>>
>> It looks to be like the 3BGP* tube, like in this document:
>> https://ia800407.us.archive.org/26/items/bitsavers_sylvaniadaataSheets_13046152/Sylvania_CRT_Data_Sheets.pdf
>> The pins are actually already connected to wires some 20cm long, and
>> the pins are completely sealed in white caulking-like rubber.
>>
>> Anybody have some info on this tube?
>>
>> Iwan
>>
>> On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:42:35 PM UTC+1 Pramanicin wrote:
>>
>>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits
>>> that was listed on eBay?
>>>
>>> like this one...
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>>>
>>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone
>>> has some that would be great.
>>>
>>> Thx,
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>> --
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> 
> .
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[neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

Tried it with a 12V 3A and 12V 4A power supply, can't get either 8SJ31J 
tube I have to light up from turning R21 Intensity.

Both power board orange bulb and control's red led light up though,

I've ordered a 12V 5A power supply hoping that'll sort it.
On Wednesday, 19 May 2021 at 21:31:08 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:

> Forwarded the documentation on, rotary control board turned up, I'm on to 
> calibration
>
> On Wednesday, 19 May 2021 at 20:01:19 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>
>> My kit arrived today WITHOUT instructions. Damn!   If anyone has an 
>> electronic copy, please let me know. I'm contacting the seller. Nothing I 
>> could find on their website. But at least I dont have to worry about the 
>> CRT connections because they prewired it for me.
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:59:23 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>>
>>> Assembled all of it & somehow managed to misplace the rotary control 
>>> board.
>>>
>>> They've made a few near-substitutions in the parts list, notably the XYZ 
>>> board part #46 - 1 piece 510K is now a 1M resistor, this was the last one I 
>>> soldered, presuming uprated intentionally.
>>>
>>> There's a few more with non-standard banding, but multimeter confirmed 
>>> values.
>>>
>>> Also the Control board has downrated the capacitance of #6 from 330pF to 
>>> 300pF and of parts #9 - now 10V instead of 16V rating, presumably 
>>> availability. 
>>>
>>> The fuses are 1A and 2A fast-acting fuses, annoyingly must be desoldered 
>>> after they've blown, unsure of the voltage tolerance.
>>>
>>> Hoping the control board turns up, otherwise I have a paperweight I 
>>> can't tune.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, 18 May 2021 at 18:29:09 UTC+1 Pruttel wrote:
>>>
 Replying to myself: since I couldn't attach, I've put two photos 
 online: https://possob.xs4all.nl/sylvania/

 Any help is appreciated!

 Iwan

 On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:14:56 PM UTC+2 Pruttel wrote:

> Since this is a CRT topic, I thought I'd ask it here: I got a 
> rectangular Sylvania CRT at a HAM flea market quite some time ago, but I 
> cannot find any info on it. I wanted to attach a photo of the tube + 
> label, 
> but the google website won't let me? The type is SC3015P1B, serial 
> 2391113. 
> Googling that type gets me nowhere, except supplier-partslists. It might 
> be 
> military supply?
>
> It looks to be like the 3BGP* tube, like in this document: 
> https://ia800407.us.archive.org/26/items/bitsavers_sylvaniadaataSheets_13046152/Sylvania_CRT_Data_Sheets.pdf
> The pins are actually already connected to wires some 20cm long, and 
> the pins are completely sealed in white caulking-like rubber.
>
> Anybody have some info on this tube?
>
> Iwan
>
> On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:42:35 PM UTC+1 Pramanicin wrote:
>
>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits 
>> that was listed on eBay?
>>
>> like this one...
>>
>>
>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>>
>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone 
>> has some that would be great.
>>
>> Thx,
>>
>> Nick
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

Forwarded the documentation on, rotary control board turned up, I'm on to 
calibration

On Wednesday, 19 May 2021 at 20:01:19 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:

> My kit arrived today WITHOUT instructions. Damn!   If anyone has an 
> electronic copy, please let me know. I'm contacting the seller. Nothing I 
> could find on their website. But at least I dont have to worry about the 
> CRT connections because they prewired it for me.
>
> On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:59:23 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>
>> Assembled all of it & somehow managed to misplace the rotary control 
>> board.
>>
>> They've made a few near-substitutions in the parts list, notably the XYZ 
>> board part #46 - 1 piece 510K is now a 1M resistor, this was the last one I 
>> soldered, presuming uprated intentionally.
>>
>> There's a few more with non-standard banding, but multimeter confirmed 
>> values.
>>
>> Also the Control board has downrated the capacitance of #6 from 330pF to 
>> 300pF and of parts #9 - now 10V instead of 16V rating, presumably 
>> availability. 
>>
>> The fuses are 1A and 2A fast-acting fuses, annoyingly must be desoldered 
>> after they've blown, unsure of the voltage tolerance.
>>
>> Hoping the control board turns up, otherwise I have a paperweight I can't 
>> tune.
>>
>> On Tuesday, 18 May 2021 at 18:29:09 UTC+1 Pruttel wrote:
>>
>>> Replying to myself: since I couldn't attach, I've put two photos online: 
>>> https://possob.xs4all.nl/sylvania/
>>>
>>> Any help is appreciated!
>>>
>>> Iwan
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:14:56 PM UTC+2 Pruttel wrote:
>>>
 Since this is a CRT topic, I thought I'd ask it here: I got a 
 rectangular Sylvania CRT at a HAM flea market quite some time ago, but I 
 cannot find any info on it. I wanted to attach a photo of the tube + 
 label, 
 but the google website won't let me? The type is SC3015P1B, serial 
 2391113. 
 Googling that type gets me nowhere, except supplier-partslists. It might 
 be 
 military supply?

 It looks to be like the 3BGP* tube, like in this document: 
 https://ia800407.us.archive.org/26/items/bitsavers_sylvaniadaataSheets_13046152/Sylvania_CRT_Data_Sheets.pdf
 The pins are actually already connected to wires some 20cm long, and 
 the pins are completely sealed in white caulking-like rubber.

 Anybody have some info on this tube?

 Iwan

 On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:42:35 PM UTC+1 Pramanicin wrote:

> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits 
> that was listed on eBay?
>
> like this one...
>
>
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>
> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone 
> has some that would be great.
>
> Thx,
>
> Nick
>


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[neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[gregebert]

My kit arrived today WITHOUT instructions. Damn!   If anyone has an 
electronic copy, please let me know. I'm contacting the seller. Nothing I 
could find on their website. But at least I dont have to worry about the 
CRT connections because they prewired it for me.

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:59:23 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:

> Assembled all of it & somehow managed to misplace the rotary control board.
>
> They've made a few near-substitutions in the parts list, notably the XYZ 
> board part #46 - 1 piece 510K is now a 1M resistor, this was the last one I 
> soldered, presuming uprated intentionally.
>
> There's a few more with non-standard banding, but multimeter confirmed 
> values.
>
> Also the Control board has downrated the capacitance of #6 from 330pF to 
> 300pF and of parts #9 - now 10V instead of 16V rating, presumably 
> availability. 
>
> The fuses are 1A and 2A fast-acting fuses, annoyingly must be desoldered 
> after they've blown, unsure of the voltage tolerance.
>
> Hoping the control board turns up, otherwise I have a paperweight I can't 
> tune.
>
> On Tuesday, 18 May 2021 at 18:29:09 UTC+1 Pruttel wrote:
>
>> Replying to myself: since I couldn't attach, I've put two photos online: 
>> https://possob.xs4all.nl/sylvania/
>>
>> Any help is appreciated!
>>
>> Iwan
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:14:56 PM UTC+2 Pruttel wrote:
>>
>>> Since this is a CRT topic, I thought I'd ask it here: I got a 
>>> rectangular Sylvania CRT at a HAM flea market quite some time ago, but I 
>>> cannot find any info on it. I wanted to attach a photo of the tube + label, 
>>> but the google website won't let me? The type is SC3015P1B, serial 2391113. 
>>> Googling that type gets me nowhere, except supplier-partslists. It might be 
>>> military supply?
>>>
>>> It looks to be like the 3BGP* tube, like in this document: 
>>> https://ia800407.us.archive.org/26/items/bitsavers_sylvaniadaataSheets_13046152/Sylvania_CRT_Data_Sheets.pdf
>>> The pins are actually already connected to wires some 20cm long, and the 
>>> pins are completely sealed in white caulking-like rubber.
>>>
>>> Anybody have some info on this tube?
>>>
>>> Iwan
>>>
>>> On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:42:35 PM UTC+1 Pramanicin wrote:
>>>
 Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
 was listed on eBay?

 like this one...


 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr

 I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
 some that would be great.

 Thx,

 Nick

>>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

Assembled all of it & somehow managed to misplace the rotary control board.

They've made a few near-substitutions in the parts list, notably the XYZ 
board part #46 - 1 piece 510K is now a 1M resistor, this was the last one I 
soldered, presuming uprated intentionally.

There's a few more with non-standard banding, but multimeter confirmed 
values.

Also the Control board has downrated the capacitance of #6 from 330pF to 
300pF and of parts #9 - now 10V instead of 16V rating, presumably 
availability. 

The fuses are 1A and 2A fast-acting fuses, annoyingly must be desoldered 
after they've blown, unsure of the voltage tolerance.

Hoping the control board turns up, otherwise I have a paperweight I can't 
tune.

On Tuesday, 18 May 2021 at 18:29:09 UTC+1 Pruttel wrote:

> Replying to myself: since I couldn't attach, I've put two photos online: 
> https://possob.xs4all.nl/sylvania/
>
> Any help is appreciated!
>
> Iwan
>
> On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:14:56 PM UTC+2 Pruttel wrote:
>
>> Since this is a CRT topic, I thought I'd ask it here: I got a rectangular 
>> Sylvania CRT at a HAM flea market quite some time ago, but I cannot find 
>> any info on it. I wanted to attach a photo of the tube + label, but the 
>> google website won't let me? The type is SC3015P1B, serial 2391113. 
>> Googling that type gets me nowhere, except supplier-partslists. It might be 
>> military supply?
>>
>> It looks to be like the 3BGP* tube, like in this document: 
>> https://ia800407.us.archive.org/26/items/bitsavers_sylvaniadaataSheets_13046152/Sylvania_CRT_Data_Sheets.pdf
>> The pins are actually already connected to wires some 20cm long, and the 
>> pins are completely sealed in white caulking-like rubber.
>>
>> Anybody have some info on this tube?
>>
>> Iwan
>>
>> On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:42:35 PM UTC+1 Pramanicin wrote:
>>
>>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
>>> was listed on eBay?
>>>
>>> like this one...
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>>>
>>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
>>> some that would be great.
>>>
>>> Thx,
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Pruttel]

Replying to myself: since I couldn't attach, I've put two photos online: 
https://possob.xs4all.nl/sylvania/

Any help is appreciated!

Iwan

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:14:56 PM UTC+2 Pruttel wrote:

> Since this is a CRT topic, I thought I'd ask it here: I got a rectangular 
> Sylvania CRT at a HAM flea market quite some time ago, but I cannot find 
> any info on it. I wanted to attach a photo of the tube + label, but the 
> google website won't let me? The type is SC3015P1B, serial 2391113. 
> Googling that type gets me nowhere, except supplier-partslists. It might be 
> military supply?
>
> It looks to be like the 3BGP* tube, like in this document: 
> https://ia800407.us.archive.org/26/items/bitsavers_sylvaniadaataSheets_13046152/Sylvania_CRT_Data_Sheets.pdf
> The pins are actually already connected to wires some 20cm long, and the 
> pins are completely sealed in white caulking-like rubber.
>
> Anybody have some info on this tube?
>
> Iwan
>
> On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:42:35 PM UTC+1 Pramanicin wrote:
>
>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
>> was listed on eBay?
>>
>> like this one...
>>
>>
>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>>
>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
>> some that would be great.
>>
>> Thx,
>>
>> Nick
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Pruttel]

Since this is a CRT topic, I thought I'd ask it here: I got a rectangular 
Sylvania CRT at a HAM flea market quite some time ago, but I cannot find 
any info on it. I wanted to attach a photo of the tube + label, but the 
google website won't let me? The type is SC3015P1B, serial 2391113. 
Googling that type gets me nowhere, except supplier-partslists. It might be 
military supply?

It looks to be like the 3BGP* tube, like in this document: 
https://ia800407.us.archive.org/26/items/bitsavers_sylvaniadaataSheets_13046152/Sylvania_CRT_Data_Sheets.pdf
The pins are actually already connected to wires some 20cm long, and the 
pins are completely sealed in white caulking-like rubber.

Anybody have some info on this tube?

Iwan

On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 10:42:35 PM UTC+1 Pramanicin wrote:

> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
> was listed on eBay?
>
> like this one...
>
>
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>
> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
> some that would be great.
>
> Thx,
>
> Nick
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

Ahh, my mistake - the filiment pins 14 and 1 are next to each other - the 
other diagram above showed a gap between 14 and 1. The pin numbers are 
nicely moulded in the base if you remove the socket.[image: Tube End.PNG]
The tube has pins 6 and 13 absent from the tube, and the wired-up socket 
doesn't use pins 4 or 12 either. 

I'd taken the gap (pins 12 and 13) as the gap on the diagram above.

Interestingly I have pin 4 present on the socket but not wired up - someone 
must have changed their mind assembling it. 
On Sunday, 16 May 2021 at 21:24:47 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:

> When you get your kit can I check the socket wiring with you? Mine doesn't 
> match the wiring for the 8SJ31J in the seller's datasheet, but is 
> pre-soldered & heatshunk and already on the tube. I'm worried they made an 
> off-by-one error wiring it up.
>
> On Saturday, 15 May 2021 at 05:53:11 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>
>> Most likely, the error is in the text description in the instruction 
>> manual. From the datasheet, pin 9 is the multi-anode connection, and pin 5 
>> is the single anode. I am more likely to follow the connections to specific 
>> pin numbers in the instructions, rather than the text-description. Pin 9 is 
>> the higher-voltage (1500V) anode, and it should not be difficult to verify 
>> that in the schematic.
>>
>> As far as the power is concerned, I cant figure out where 7-10 watts is 
>> going. The filament is 6.3V / 150mA so that's less than 1 watt. The 
>> electron-beam current is probably less than 100uA, so that is also less 
>> than 1 watt. For comparison, a NIMO tube uses 30uA. Even if the anode 
>> current was a whopping 1mA, that would still be only 1.5 watts. So that 
>> leaves the grid and focus anode as the only other source of power 
>> dissipation; maybe some clues will be in the schematic.
>>
>> My kit arrived in the US earlier this week, so I hope it will get 
>> delivered to me next week. I will be placing a 250mA fuse in series with 
>> the filament for added protection. I'll post an update after I've either 
>> finished it, or ran into a problem.
>>
>> On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 5:15:45 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>>
>>> Found a conflict between the documentation (both before and after google 
>>> auto-translation). The conflict is between Anodes A1,A2,A3 in the sellers 
>>> documentation. 
>>>
>>> The seller's documentation lists: 
>>>
>>> A2 (Focusing Anode) - pin 5
>>> A1,A3 (first and third anodes) - pin 9
>>>
>>> I've found a separate pinout for the 8SJ31J tube that lists:
>>>
>>> Focusing Anode,A2 - pin 9
>>> A1 - pin 5
>>>
>>>  The second pinout is from 
>>> http://www.spectrum-scientifics.com/v/vspfiles/pdf/Properties_of_Electrons_Apparatus.pdf
>>>  
>>>
>>> It looks like the tube in the spectrum-scientifics is the thin-pin 
>>> version of the 8SJ31J, and the kit uses the thick-pin version of the 
>>> 8SJ31J, but I'd like a second opinion. 
>>>
>>> I know they have different power requirements - the thick-pin (old) is 
>>> around 10W, and the thin-pin (new) is around 7W (I'm assuming which are old 
>>> and new based on the design of the base socket). The rest of the pinout 
>>> agrees, is this another difference between the old and new designs of 
>>> tubes? 
>>>
>>> Tl;DR I'm not clear on the anodes of the 8SJ31J, which pin is the 
>>> focusing anode, and why the other two of the three anodes are joined 
>>> together.
>>> On Saturday, 15 May 2021 at 00:06:33 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
>>>
 I'm trying to figure out how it's put together before I start soldering.

 As Paolo mentioned the only mystery part is the transformer T-SC-1 on 
 the parts list - it looks like a custom order. I don't know how to 
 characterise it without destructively pulling it apart, and unfortunately 
 they don't sell them separately.

 There's another four without the tube now listed: 
 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265151344483

 The kit is listed as configured for 8SJ31J by default, and the 
 documentation linked further up lists the wiring for 3SJ1J/5SJ38J/7SJ32J. 
 No idea if the power requirements differ and requires resistors changing 
 on 
 the circuitboard(s), or if they are plug-and-pray drop-in replacements 
 once 
 you've changed the pinout.

 The auction page says it can be used with 
 3LO1I/7SJ33J/8SJ31D/8SJ40/8SJ42J/8SJ40D/9SJ105Y14/12SJ102J/13SJ38J/13SJ38D.
  
 Unfortunately without knowing the transformer operating characteristics 
 I'd be hesitant to plug in anything else.

 I'll probably try to replace the fuses with polyfuses in the future, 
 socketing them for now, and taking measurements while unpopulated for 
 easier case design later.


 On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:25:12 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:

> Huh, ebay auction says 12V 5A, a previous aliexpress page gives much 
> lower values for amperage:
>
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001142939399.html
>

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

When you get your kit can I check the socket wiring with you? Mine doesn't 
match the wiring for the 8SJ31J in the seller's datasheet, but is 
pre-soldered & heatshunk and already on the tube. I'm worried they made an 
off-by-one error wiring it up.

On Saturday, 15 May 2021 at 05:53:11 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:

> Most likely, the error is in the text description in the instruction 
> manual. From the datasheet, pin 9 is the multi-anode connection, and pin 5 
> is the single anode. I am more likely to follow the connections to specific 
> pin numbers in the instructions, rather than the text-description. Pin 9 is 
> the higher-voltage (1500V) anode, and it should not be difficult to verify 
> that in the schematic.
>
> As far as the power is concerned, I cant figure out where 7-10 watts is 
> going. The filament is 6.3V / 150mA so that's less than 1 watt. The 
> electron-beam current is probably less than 100uA, so that is also less 
> than 1 watt. For comparison, a NIMO tube uses 30uA. Even if the anode 
> current was a whopping 1mA, that would still be only 1.5 watts. So that 
> leaves the grid and focus anode as the only other source of power 
> dissipation; maybe some clues will be in the schematic.
>
> My kit arrived in the US earlier this week, so I hope it will get 
> delivered to me next week. I will be placing a 250mA fuse in series with 
> the filament for added protection. I'll post an update after I've either 
> finished it, or ran into a problem.
>
> On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 5:15:45 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>
>> Found a conflict between the documentation (both before and after google 
>> auto-translation). The conflict is between Anodes A1,A2,A3 in the sellers 
>> documentation. 
>>
>> The seller's documentation lists: 
>>
>> A2 (Focusing Anode) - pin 5
>> A1,A3 (first and third anodes) - pin 9
>>
>> I've found a separate pinout for the 8SJ31J tube that lists:
>>
>> Focusing Anode,A2 - pin 9
>> A1 - pin 5
>>
>>  The second pinout is from 
>> http://www.spectrum-scientifics.com/v/vspfiles/pdf/Properties_of_Electrons_Apparatus.pdf
>>  
>>
>> It looks like the tube in the spectrum-scientifics is the thin-pin 
>> version of the 8SJ31J, and the kit uses the thick-pin version of the 
>> 8SJ31J, but I'd like a second opinion. 
>>
>> I know they have different power requirements - the thick-pin (old) is 
>> around 10W, and the thin-pin (new) is around 7W (I'm assuming which are old 
>> and new based on the design of the base socket). The rest of the pinout 
>> agrees, is this another difference between the old and new designs of 
>> tubes? 
>>
>> Tl;DR I'm not clear on the anodes of the 8SJ31J, which pin is the 
>> focusing anode, and why the other two of the three anodes are joined 
>> together.
>> On Saturday, 15 May 2021 at 00:06:33 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
>>
>>> I'm trying to figure out how it's put together before I start soldering.
>>>
>>> As Paolo mentioned the only mystery part is the transformer T-SC-1 on 
>>> the parts list - it looks like a custom order. I don't know how to 
>>> characterise it without destructively pulling it apart, and unfortunately 
>>> they don't sell them separately.
>>>
>>> There's another four without the tube now listed: 
>>> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265151344483
>>>
>>> The kit is listed as configured for 8SJ31J by default, and the 
>>> documentation linked further up lists the wiring for 3SJ1J/5SJ38J/7SJ32J. 
>>> No idea if the power requirements differ and requires resistors changing on 
>>> the circuitboard(s), or if they are plug-and-pray drop-in replacements once 
>>> you've changed the pinout.
>>>
>>> The auction page says it can be used with 
>>> 3LO1I/7SJ33J/8SJ31D/8SJ40/8SJ42J/8SJ40D/9SJ105Y14/12SJ102J/13SJ38J/13SJ38D. 
>>> Unfortunately without knowing the transformer operating characteristics 
>>> I'd be hesitant to plug in anything else.
>>>
>>> I'll probably try to replace the fuses with polyfuses in the future, 
>>> socketing them for now, and taking measurements while unpopulated for 
>>> easier case design later.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:25:12 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
>>>
 Huh, ebay auction says 12V 5A, a previous aliexpress page gives much 
 lower values for amperage:

 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001142939399.html

 I'm assuming it's the same design from the pictures

 On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:18:53 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:

> The kit was previously 'avalible' from aliexpress for £56.44, but it 
> was from a seller that held no stock - got refunded as unable to ship.
>
> That was minus the tube though, the current ebay link includes the 
> 8SJ31J but lacks a power supply (12V 5A centre+)
>
> Unsure on lifespan of tube.
>
> On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 19:46:03 UTC+1 Paul Andrews wrote:
>
>> They actually seem very cheap to me...
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 12:56:00 PM UTC-4 John Snow wrote:
>>
>>> There's 

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[gregebert]

Most likely, the error is in the text description in the instruction 
manual. From the datasheet, pin 9 is the multi-anode connection, and pin 5 
is the single anode. I am more likely to follow the connections to specific 
pin numbers in the instructions, rather than the text-description. Pin 9 is 
the higher-voltage (1500V) anode, and it should not be difficult to verify 
that in the schematic.

As far as the power is concerned, I cant figure out where 7-10 watts is 
going. The filament is 6.3V / 150mA so that's less than 1 watt. The 
electron-beam current is probably less than 100uA, so that is also less 
than 1 watt. For comparison, a NIMO tube uses 30uA. Even if the anode 
current was a whopping 1mA, that would still be only 1.5 watts. So that 
leaves the grid and focus anode as the only other source of power 
dissipation; maybe some clues will be in the schematic.

My kit arrived in the US earlier this week, so I hope it will get delivered 
to me next week. I will be placing a 250mA fuse in series with the filament 
for added protection. I'll post an update after I've either finished it, or 
ran into a problem.

On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 5:15:45 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:

> Found a conflict between the documentation (both before and after google 
> auto-translation). The conflict is between Anodes A1,A2,A3 in the sellers 
> documentation. 
>
> The seller's documentation lists: 
>
> A2 (Focusing Anode) - pin 5
> A1,A3 (first and third anodes) - pin 9
>
> I've found a separate pinout for the 8SJ31J tube that lists:
>
> Focusing Anode,A2 - pin 9
> A1 - pin 5
>
>  The second pinout is from 
> http://www.spectrum-scientifics.com/v/vspfiles/pdf/Properties_of_Electrons_Apparatus.pdf
>  
>
> It looks like the tube in the spectrum-scientifics is the thin-pin version 
> of the 8SJ31J, and the kit uses the thick-pin version of the 8SJ31J, but 
> I'd like a second opinion. 
>
> I know they have different power requirements - the thick-pin (old) is 
> around 10W, and the thin-pin (new) is around 7W (I'm assuming which are old 
> and new based on the design of the base socket). The rest of the pinout 
> agrees, is this another difference between the old and new designs of 
> tubes? 
>
> Tl;DR I'm not clear on the anodes of the 8SJ31J, which pin is the focusing 
> anode, and why the other two of the three anodes are joined together.
> On Saturday, 15 May 2021 at 00:06:33 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
>
>> I'm trying to figure out how it's put together before I start soldering.
>>
>> As Paolo mentioned the only mystery part is the transformer T-SC-1 on the 
>> parts list - it looks like a custom order. I don't know how to characterise 
>> it without destructively pulling it apart, and unfortunately they don't 
>> sell them separately.
>>
>> There's another four without the tube now listed: 
>> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265151344483
>>
>> The kit is listed as configured for 8SJ31J by default, and the 
>> documentation linked further up lists the wiring for 3SJ1J/5SJ38J/7SJ32J. 
>> No idea if the power requirements differ and requires resistors changing on 
>> the circuitboard(s), or if they are plug-and-pray drop-in replacements once 
>> you've changed the pinout.
>>
>> The auction page says it can be used with 
>> 3LO1I/7SJ33J/8SJ31D/8SJ40/8SJ42J/8SJ40D/9SJ105Y14/12SJ102J/13SJ38J/13SJ38D. 
>> Unfortunately without knowing the transformer operating characteristics 
>> I'd be hesitant to plug in anything else.
>>
>> I'll probably try to replace the fuses with polyfuses in the future, 
>> socketing them for now, and taking measurements while unpopulated for 
>> easier case design later.
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:25:12 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
>>
>>> Huh, ebay auction says 12V 5A, a previous aliexpress page gives much 
>>> lower values for amperage:
>>>
>>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001142939399.html
>>>
>>> I'm assuming it's the same design from the pictures
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:18:53 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
>>>
 The kit was previously 'avalible' from aliexpress for £56.44, but it 
 was from a seller that held no stock - got refunded as unable to ship.

 That was minus the tube though, the current ebay link includes the 
 8SJ31J but lacks a power supply (12V 5A centre+)

 Unsure on lifespan of tube.

 On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 19:46:03 UTC+1 Paul Andrews wrote:

> They actually seem very cheap to me...
>
> On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 12:56:00 PM UTC-4 John Snow wrote:
>
>> There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at 
>> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 , I've ordered one on the 
>> offchance they have them in stock, also the seller has feedback for 
>> selling 
>> them previously.
>>
>> Bit of a premium tho, and only avalible with tube.
>> On Wednesday, 16 December 2020 at 11:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:
>>
>>> Have you looked at these kits?
>>>
>>> 

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

I'm trying to figure out how it's put together before I start soldering.

As Paolo mentioned the only mystery part is the transformer T-SC-1 on the 
parts list - it looks like a custom order. I don't know how to characterise 
it without destructively pulling it apart, and unfortunately they don't 
sell them separately.

There's another four without the tube now listed: 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265151344483

The kit is listed as configured for 8SJ31J by default, and the 
documentation linked further up lists the wiring for 3SJ1J/5SJ38J/7SJ32J. 
No idea if the power requirements differ and requires resistors changing on 
the circuitboard(s), or if they are plug-and-pray drop-in replacements once 
you've changed the pinout.

The auction page says it can be used with 
3LO1I/7SJ33J/8SJ31D/8SJ40/8SJ42J/8SJ40D/9SJ105Y14/12SJ102J/13SJ38J/13SJ38D. 
Unfortunately without knowing the transformer operating characteristics I'd 
be hesitant to plug in anything else.

I'll probably try to replace the fuses with polyfuses in the future, 
socketing them for now, and taking measurements while unpopulated for 
easier case design later.


On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:25:12 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:

> Huh, ebay auction says 12V 5A, a previous aliexpress page gives much lower 
> values for amperage:
>
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001142939399.html
>
> I'm assuming it's the same design from the pictures
>
> On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:18:53 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
>
>> The kit was previously 'avalible' from aliexpress for £56.44, but it was 
>> from a seller that held no stock - got refunded as unable to ship.
>>
>> That was minus the tube though, the current ebay link includes the 8SJ31J 
>> but lacks a power supply (12V 5A centre+)
>>
>> Unsure on lifespan of tube.
>>
>> On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 19:46:03 UTC+1 Paul Andrews wrote:
>>
>>> They actually seem very cheap to me...
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 12:56:00 PM UTC-4 John Snow wrote:
>>>
 There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at 
 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 , I've ordered one on the 
 offchance they have them in stock, also the seller has feedback for 
 selling 
 them previously.

 Bit of a premium tho, and only avalible with tube.
 On Wednesday, 16 December 2020 at 11:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:

> Have you looked at these kits?
>
> https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow  wrote:
>
> I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later 
> refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.
>
>
>
> On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:
>
>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits 
>> that was listed on eBay?
>>
>> like this one...
>>
>>
>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>>
>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone 
>> has some that would be great.
>>
>> Thx,
>>
>> Nick
>>
> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3aacb083-5cbf-4b96-96ee-6e8e13744159n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

Huh, ebay auction says 12V 5A, a previous aliexpress page gives much lower 
values for amperage:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001142939399.html

I'm assuming it's the same design from the pictures

On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:18:53 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:

> The kit was previously 'avalible' from aliexpress for £56.44, but it was 
> from a seller that held no stock - got refunded as unable to ship.
>
> That was minus the tube though, the current ebay link includes the 8SJ31J 
> but lacks a power supply (12V 5A centre+)
>
> Unsure on lifespan of tube.
>
> On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 19:46:03 UTC+1 Paul Andrews wrote:
>
>> They actually seem very cheap to me...
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 12:56:00 PM UTC-4 John Snow wrote:
>>
>>> There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at 
>>> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 , I've ordered one on the 
>>> offchance they have them in stock, also the seller has feedback for selling 
>>> them previously.
>>>
>>> Bit of a premium tho, and only avalible with tube.
>>> On Wednesday, 16 December 2020 at 11:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:
>>>
 Have you looked at these kits?

 https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm


 Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow  wrote:

 I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later 
 refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.



 On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:

> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits 
> that was listed on eBay?
>
> like this one...
>
>
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>
> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone 
> has some that would be great.
>
> Thx,
>
> Nick
>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

The kit was previously 'avalible' from aliexpress for £56.44, but it was 
from a seller that held no stock - got refunded as unable to ship.

That was minus the tube though, the current ebay link includes the 8SJ31J 
but lacks a power supply (12V 5A centre+)

Unsure on lifespan of tube.

On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 19:46:03 UTC+1 Paul Andrews wrote:

> They actually seem very cheap to me...
>
> On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 12:56:00 PM UTC-4 John Snow wrote:
>
>> There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at 
>> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 , I've ordered one on the 
>> offchance they have them in stock, also the seller has feedback for selling 
>> them previously.
>>
>> Bit of a premium tho, and only avalible with tube.
>> On Wednesday, 16 December 2020 at 11:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:
>>
>>> Have you looked at these kits?
>>>
>>> https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow  wrote:
>>>
>>> I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later 
>>> refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:
>>>
 Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
 was listed on eBay?

 like this one...


 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr

 I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
 some that would be great.

 Thx,

 Nick

>>> -- 
>>>
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>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
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>>> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3aacb083-5cbf-4b96-96ee-6e8e13744159n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[Paul Andrews]

They actually seem very cheap to me...

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 12:56:00 PM UTC-4 John Snow wrote:

> There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 , I've ordered one on the 
> offchance they have them in stock, also the seller has feedback for selling 
> them previously.
>
> Bit of a premium tho, and only avalible with tube.
> On Wednesday, 16 December 2020 at 11:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:
>
>> Have you looked at these kits?
>>
>> https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow  wrote:
>>
>> I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later 
>> refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:
>>
>>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
>>> was listed on eBay?
>>>
>>> like this one...
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>>>
>>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
>>> some that would be great.
>>>
>>> Thx,
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>> -- 
>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "neonixie-l" group.
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>> email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3aacb083-5cbf-4b96-96ee-6e8e13744159n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

['Gelu Burla' via neonixie-l]

 What is the life expectance for this tube?

___
 On Wednesday, April 28, 2021, 08:23:17 PM GMT+3, John Snow 
 wrote:  
 
 There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 , I've ordered one on the offchance 
they have them in stock, also the seller has feedback for selling them 
previously.

Bit of a premium tho, and only avalible with tube.
On Wednesday, 16 December 2020 at 11:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:

Have you looked at these kits?
https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm


Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow  wrote:



I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later refunded 
me saying they weren't getting any more stock.



On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:

Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that was 
listed on eBay?
like this one...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr

I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has some 
that would be great.
Thx,
Nick




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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[gregebert]

Thanks for the tip; I just bought one. I'll post an update + video after I 
get it and build it.

On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 9:56:00 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:

> There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 , I've ordered one on the 
> offchance they have them in stock, also the seller has feedback for selling 
> them previously.
>
> Bit of a premium tho, and only avalible with tube.
> On Wednesday, 16 December 2020 at 11:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:
>
>> Have you looked at these kits?
>>
>> https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow  wrote:
>>
>> I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later 
>> refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:
>>
>>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
>>> was listed on eBay?
>>>
>>> like this one...
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>>>
>>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
>>> some that would be great.
>>>
>>> Thx,
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>> -- 
>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3aacb083-5cbf-4b96-96ee-6e8e13744159n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 
, I've ordered one on the offchance they have them in stock, also the 
seller has feedback for selling them previously.

Bit of a premium tho, and only avalible with tube.
On Wednesday, 16 December 2020 at 11:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:

> Have you looked at these kits?
>
> https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow  wrote:
>
> I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later 
> refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.
>
>
>
> On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:
>
>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
>> was listed on eBay?
>>
>> like this one...
>>
>>
>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>>
>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
>> some that would be great.
>>
>> Thx,
>>
>> Nick
>>
> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "neonixie-l" group.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3aacb083-5cbf-4b96-96ee-6e8e13744159n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[loknar28]

Have you looked at these kits?

https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm


Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow  wrote:
> 
> I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later 
> refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.
> 
>> On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:
>> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that was 
>> listed on eBay?
>> 
>> like this one...
>> 
>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>> 
>> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has some 
>> that would be great.
>> 
>> Thx,
>> 
>> Nick
> 
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[neonixie-l] Re: CRT clock kit instructions

[John Snow]

I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later 
refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.

On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:

> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that 
> was listed on eBay?
>
> like this one...
>
>
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001330655526.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1a084c4d8VxYDr
>
> I have a kit, but they never shipped the instructions, so if anyone has 
> some that would be great.
>
> Thx,
>
> Nick
>

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