Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
No.. the clock is in view all day.. but I do have it shut down at night. I did however get the GPS. Kiran On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 10:36:01 PM UTC-4, Jeff Walton wrote: Did you get the motion sensor? It's a good feature! I was pleased with it. Jeff Walton Original message From: Kiran Otter kiran...@gmail.com javascript: Date: 05/14/2015 8:30 PM (GMT-06:00) To: neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript: Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating Well after MUCH trials and tribulations.. I gave up. :) I lack the abilities to figure out what the problem is beyond what I've already done. I'm sending the boards to Nick tomorrow.. maybe he'll be able to figure out. My ultimate solution: I spent $300 on a new clock, and used my IN-18s. Took me 4 hours to build Pete's Spectrum 18 clock, and it's working perfectly. The PRISM case is just wonderful. I was really unsure about the multi-color LEDs at first, but now I really like them. I want to thank everyone for their input and time. Especially JT for sending the 7805 replacement, and Nick, for sending even more parts and putting up with dozens of my emails! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/b25d754a-9dee-4c70-821e-a2d6b657b6d1%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/b25d754a-9dee-4c70-821e-a2d6b657b6d1%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d41f0c7b-ec07-4d6d-90ba-c2226cedcac0%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Since I'm picky stubborn, I do my own designs. That way I can only blame myself. Snarkiness aside, making a production-worthy design is not trivial and I'm sure that the few kits that are available are designed by engineers who have day-jobs as well. On top of that, kits need to be affordable, so that means the design will have tradeoffs. Lastly, many kits might not include 100% of the parts (again, for cost reasons), so substitutions are inevitable. All of these things combined will result in no 2 boards being 100% identical, and that's an opportunity for things not to work as expected. = Fuzzy blue spots are a tube issue; spectra suggest it's mercury. But you definitely want tubes that contain mercury because they have a longer lifetime. I have yet to find any information that explains the low-level details why this is the case, such as chemical-reaction equations, etc. I've been watching a blue dot in one of my tubes for more than a year, and it has not changed in size, location, or brightness. I suspect there is an impurity on the cathode that attracts mercury. Singing doesn't exist with direct-drive, but I suspect most designers avoid direct-drive for cost reasons. Overheating can be caused by many factors, such as the case, and may have nothing at all to do with the circuit design. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/b1586478-9481-450c-b78b-fb073525ba75%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Dan, For IN-18 tubes, the Nocrotec http://www.nocrotec.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p127_IN-18-Blue-Dream-Ni xie-Clock.html Blue Dream Clock or the PV Electronics http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=18pr oducts_id=157 Spectrum 18 clock are both very nice. Both are direct drive and run nice and cool. The Nocrotec clock has a stainless case available and the PV Electronics clock has three different cases with choices of clear or smoke grey acrylic. Among the differences - the Nocrotec clock is blue backlit, whereas the PV Electronics clock has programmable colors on the tube backlighting and also has a very nice motion sensor option to save the tubes when no one is around. Both have similar fading effects on the digits but the Nocrotec clock also fades the colons to match. The cathode protection option on the PV Electronics clock is more interesting as the digits cycle independently of each other rather than exactly the same. Both have good GPS support. If you have daylight saving time, the PV Electronics clock has a one button DST control for easy changes. Both have robust menus. I've built both and like both clocks very much! Jeff Walton -Original Message- From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Hollis Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 2:50 PM To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating So what's the clock kit to get these days that doesn't have these problems? 1) overheating 2) blue spots 3) singing due to multiplex frequency being in audible range -Dan On Mon, 20 Apr 2015, Kiran Otter wrote: Just an update for those morbidly curious... I replaced several parts per Nick's suggestion.. (in fact Nick was nice enough to send me the parts!) but in the end, the MOSFET is still getting super hot. So today I'm sending the board to Nick for him to poke at it. Thanks Nick! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mailto:neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/496e8fb9-31b2-4ff4-9aba-63afc0 418305%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/496e8fb9-31b2-4ff4-9aba-63afc04 18305%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/5535a016.4314320a.2c85.187f%40mx.google.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
On 15-04-12 10:53 AM, Kiran Otter wrote: I can't find the 2SA1266 transistor. Tried a cross-ref site and it gave me 213 choices. x.x http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/2SA1266pr.shtml It is a Japanese type. but their are probably hundreds that would work... use the specs in the link above to screen on digikey for a similar one, or order some from futurlec, although they tend to take a while to ship. -- Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario cm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the Fringe http://Charles.MacDonald.org/tubes No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/552B0DDF.7060607%40zeusprune.ca. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Kiran, PM me...I have all the parts you need and can send them to you for the price of postage only. Cheers, Nick Sent from my iPhone On Apr 12, 2015, at 07:53, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote: Ok, I need some help to know which parts to order.. The inductor; I know it's 'inductance' is 270uh.. but what current rating? There's about 330 choices. :D I wish I could tell these things by looking at the schematic. Is http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RLB0914-271KL/RLB0914-271KL-ND/2352778 correct? On the mosfet, there's only 2 choices.. one with a max power of 125W, the other 150W. I'm going on the assumption that the 150W would be better..? I can't find the 2SA1266 transistor. Tried a cross-ref site and it gave me 213 choices. x.x On the diode, there's two; 5ua@1000V or 10ua@1000V? The capacitors I can figure out, at least. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1fcacb70-ae75-4a8c-96d4-e0fdd8a36730%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/29DEFF6F-4B0B-4950-A9AE-007D81DA65E4%40gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
A faulty inductor with some windings short cuted will make switching transistor go hot. Kiran Otter skrev den 2015-04-10 17:12: Well.. I replaced the voltage regulator with JT's part, it appears to be working perfectly.. a solid 5V right on the mark. I also replaced C1. The ghosting numbers are still there but very faint.. but the MOSFET (M1, an IRF640) is still getting extremely hot. You know when a component gets so hot it has that hot-electronics smell? It's that hot. The voltage to the tubes is right on 170V. I didn't have to adjust it after replacing the two components. Should I replace the MOSFET? Any other suggestions? :) Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com mailto:neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/a71bc0e6-d7a7-429c-95b4-416e7fa1a182%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/a71bc0e6-d7a7-429c-95b4-416e7fa1a182%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/5528DD5C.9010104%40gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Kiran, A sawtooth waveform would point to a bad C1. A waveform of a much higher frequency would be from an oscillation and more superimposed on the DC. As long as you are going to do some soldering anyway, you should just replace the 7805 with the drop-in switcher that you received from Tayloredge. It is MUCH more efficient. You could also replace C1 at the same time since you are already working on it. Saves you the work later if it is deteriorating. Bypass caps are also a good practice for circuits with high frequencies. Many modern board layouts that work with much higher frequencies (probably not in your clock) build-in circuit traces that are engineered to act in the same manner as a bypass but it won't hurt anything in a clock design to add the bypass caps to a power rail. Many years ago, during my time with Texas Instruments, I sold hundreds of thousands of the little 78xx and 79xx series regulators into a lot of different applications. They were a new and novel solution for cheap and dirty regulation and efficiency was not a big deal back them. Today, the small drop-in replacements for the 78xx series are a much more modern and elegant solution when there is a small power budget. Jeff Walton From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kiran Otter Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2015 1:52 PM To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating I should have said if I see oscillation from the 7805 that Jeff mentioned, pointing to a bad C1. I may just replace it regardless. Kiran On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: Hi folks, glad to find this group! I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18 tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I thought I would ask here. Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Maybe a month later, I started to notice the left most digit was faintly showing numbers, and seemed to be influenced by the next to right digit. So I thought perhaps the drivers I got from eBay weren't good, so I swapped them around, trying to see if it made any difference. Unfortunately, I trashed the two original driver chips that came with the kit. So far swapping the drivers around among the six I have, hasn't changed anything.. or if it has, the digits lighting that shouldn't be have moved from tube to tube. Well I let the clock run like this for a week or so, and one day I just happened to feel around the voltage regulator U1 (L7805CV).. and it's blazing hot. I put a temp probe on it and it's running at 140F in open air, and when I built the clock, I epoxied a heatsink to it. It never ever used to get this hot. In fact the clock has run for years in a closed enclosure with very little ventilation. It just never produced much heat at all. I swapped both driver chips for two others, and it still gets just as hot. When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just above room temperature. So my guess is has to be one of two things I replaced; C6, or the driver chips. I think it's the drivers, and I'd like to get a pair from somewhere reputable so I can at least rule them out as the problem. I've seen some that appear to be ceramic, instead of plastic cased.. claimed to be 'milspec' but I donno if that's BS or what. Any help is appreciated! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/db144a82-9537-4bb7-9a3b-6f1536af8c65%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/db144a82-9537-4bb7-9a3b-6f1536af8c65%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/5520bca5.88196b0a.532c.14fc
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
I suspect they will solve the problem but at considerably more cost than two small capacitors which should have been there in the first place. ... Nick On 30 March 2015 12:47:54 GMT+01:00, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote: Nick, Would replacing the 7805 with a 'non-isolated dc/dc converter' like Jon suggested solve the problem too? I ask because I was going to try the Traco TSR 1-2450, or the Murata part (though I'm not sure it will fit.) I ordered both. I'll get my scope out today and see what I can see. Kiran On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 6:33:57 AM UTC-4, Nick wrote: Just to re-iterate - solder a small 100nF capacitor between pins 1 2, and another between pins 3 2, preferably on the underside of the PCB directly to the 7805's solder pads. The symptoms you are seeing are almost certainly nothing to do with the heatsinks etc - I'd put good money on this being a very common classic issue with 78xx 79xx linear regulators whereby they break into VHF oscillation and over-heat. This is extremely well documented and the manufacturer's datasheets all say that the two suppression caps are not a nice to have but are essential. Most of the datasheets actually specify a 330nF input capacitor (between pins 1 2) but a 100nF works well too. Missing out these two capacitors is a basic error. Nick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/neonixie-l/_OjC4E__J_M/unsubscribe. To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/b4012849-acd5-4630-ad73-62ea6ee8c803%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/C8631BFA-F7F3-4F06-BAD2-9F29808DC148%40desmith.net. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Kiran, If you get your scope running, check the output of U1 (7805 regulator) and look for a very flat DC. If you see any type of sawtooth or superimposed oscillation, replace C1. You can use a any higher value than 10uF as long as it physically fits and has a high enough voltage rating. Any visible oscillation superimposed on the output pin could cause the overheating and also could cause the phantom digit illumination as well as other issues. Just as was mentioned in a previous post regarding C6, C1 could also have dried out and a heated board in the same area will accelerate the dryout of any nearby electrolytic caps. C2 is also filtering the input to the 7805 and in the direct vicinity of your hot board. If it is dried out, it will also cause unwanted behavior. Jeff Walton From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kiran Otter Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 12:56 PM To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating Something I want to note about how I used a heatsink; I epoxied it to the tops of the cases of M1 U1; traditionally you'd bolt it to the back of the component but at the time I couldn't figure out a better way, and I had heatsink epoxy, so I just plastered it to the tops of the two components. It's been like that ever since I built the clock, and never did it get so hot that you couldn't touch it. Warm, yes. I don't know how it could have become conductive across the cases of M1 U1.. if it did, that's a neat trick. But removing it certainly seems to have made some difference. Using a laser temperature probe, M1 seems fine.. but U1 definitely seems cranky.. and it's heating the board up all around that entire end to ~110F. Again, I never noticed it getting this hot. To answer Johnk's question; the heatsink and epoxy weren't touching anything metallic, and I originally added it because I thought M1 U1 were getting pretty warm from the start when I built it, and figured it wouldn't hurt to add it. But maybe over time.. it started to conduct between them somehow. I don't know. Jon; thanks for that info. I'll try one of the 7805 alternatives you mentioned. Nick; I'll drag out my scope and see if it even still works, and see if I can't check the 7805 with it. I might have a question or two on using the scope. :D So far, right now with a little fan blowing over the M1/U1 area.. the whole thing is keeping cool. Barely running above 90F anywhere I check. If I turn off the fan, it shoots up past 120F. I turned the fan back on at that point. Niek; I re-enabled the leading zero, and still see the same thing. In fact when going through the settings, I was able to catch the attached pic of the right most tube showing what was in the next-to-left tube. So it seems to go both ways. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/508e5b80-f513-4cfb-9d71-8a46ab09022e%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/508e5b80-f513-4cfb-9d71-8a46ab09022e%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/55185807.07976b0a.7b4a.e5b5%40mx.google.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Kiran, If you get your scope running, check the output of U1 (7805 regulator) and look for a very flat DC. If you see any type of sawtooth or superimposed oscillation, replace C1. You can use a any higher value than 10uF as long as it physically fits and has a high enough voltage rating. Any visible oscillation superimposed on the output pin could cause the overheating and also could cause the phantom digit illumination as well as other issues. Just as was mentioned in a previous post regarding C6, C1 could also have dried out and a heated board in the same area will accelerate the dryout of any nearby electrolytic caps. Jeff Walton From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kiran Otter Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 12:56 PM To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating Something I want to note about how I used a heatsink; I epoxied it to the tops of the cases of M1 U1; traditionally you'd bolt it to the back of the component but at the time I couldn't figure out a better way, and I had heatsink epoxy, so I just plastered it to the tops of the two components. It's been like that ever since I built the clock, and never did it get so hot that you couldn't touch it. Warm, yes. I don't know how it could have become conductive across the cases of M1 U1.. if it did, that's a neat trick. But removing it certainly seems to have made some difference. Using a laser temperature probe, M1 seems fine.. but U1 definitely seems cranky.. and it's heating the board up all around that entire end to ~110F. Again, I never noticed it getting this hot. To answer Johnk's question; the heatsink and epoxy weren't touching anything metallic, and I originally added it because I thought M1 U1 were getting pretty warm from the start when I built it, and figured it wouldn't hurt to add it. But maybe over time.. it started to conduct between them somehow. I don't know. Jon; thanks for that info. I'll try one of the 7805 alternatives you mentioned. Nick; I'll drag out my scope and see if it even still works, and see if I can't check the 7805 with it. I might have a question or two on using the scope. :D So far, right now with a little fan blowing over the M1/U1 area.. the whole thing is keeping cool. Barely running above 90F anywhere I check. If I turn off the fan, it shoots up past 120F. I turned the fan back on at that point. Niek; I re-enabled the leading zero, and still see the same thing. In fact when going through the settings, I was able to catch the attached pic of the right most tube showing what was in the next-to-left tube. So it seems to go both ways. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/508e5b80-f513-4cfb-9d71-8a46ab09022e%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/508e5b80-f513-4cfb-9d71-8a46ab09022e%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/551856c0.111b6b0a.4566.e3bb%40mx.google.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
I didn't look closely when I mentioned about how to properly use heatsink compound. Was it hot before you added the heatsink? Was it hotter after? You pondered why the heatsink might make it hotter:- Someone mentioned maybe glue conducting. I mentioned the glue might insulate the heat. Overlapping a couple of components, maybe one didn't like being heated by the other? And, what if the added heatsink is acting as an UNWANTED capacitor between various pieces of the circuit? You didn't join the heatsink to earth/gnd or a rail, it was floating? Gnd-ing pretty well removes the coupling effect. [And the rail is effectively grounded.] John K/ - Original Message - From: Kiran Otter To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 8:53 AM Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating Niek, Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit.. though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube coming on for like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint, so I assume it's not really a problem. Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think it's OK for now. Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay? Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2a2ddbd2-87d6-4cc1-93fc-81dd50c2bc91%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/191DEAD2B8FE41A783BE80504E5231E9%40compunet4f9da9. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Sorry, corrected link below. Phones are fun... Kiran, PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their Spectrum model uses the IN-18 nixies and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice feature! They also have a couple different cases available for the Spectrum model. I recently bought one and would recommend them. It runs nice and cool. http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk Jeff Walton From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kiran Otter Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 12:51 PM To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/5516fdc9.5a876b0a.176f.9e7f%40mx.google.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Terry Kennedy wrote: On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Yes, that kit tends to eat the HV filter cap. I've replaced it in multiple clocks multiple times. Eventually I suppose I'll just figure out how to get a Tayloredge HVPS module in there, and swap the supplies the next time the cap fails in each. Mine blew the fuse too, good to know i'm not the only one who had this problem. Also good to know C6 is the likely culprit. My clock has been sitting unused for a while. -Dan
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Could you have a faulty DS1307? Would that cause a timing issue? Nick Sent from my iPhone On Mar 28, 2015, at 15:23, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote: Niek, Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit.. though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube coming on for like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint, so I assume it's not really a problem. Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think it's OK for now. Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay? Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2a2ddbd2-87d6-4cc1-93fc-81dd50c2bc91%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/E5FFCE18-F077-4083-80D9-A3B0C2BEEEC4%40gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Careful with epoxying a heatsink on. A heatconducting paste [dangerous chemical usually] OR a very thin layer of heatsink compound and a clip holding the heatsink is probably better. How much does the epoxy impede the heat flow? [and note I said very thin re the compound?Just enough to fill the tiny voids that exist. The usual compounds are heat insulators, but are still better than air filling the voids.] PS. I know you said the overheating is recent, but I use the opportunity to mention this topic. John k. - Original Message - From: Kiran Otter To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 2:44 AM Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating The voltage from the wallwart (12V, 1A) is 11.8V under load. The high voltage to the tubes is 172.8V. It's very difficult to get it right at 170V when adjusting R26. Something else I wanted to mention; the separator tubes (separating hours from minutes, minutes from seconds,) one of them is mostly black, and neither of them light properly. I'm wondering if they're the culprit. I'm going to remove them and see if it makes any difference. Also, I have the heatsink epoxied to both U1 and M1; maybe it's M1 that's getting hot, not U1? I'll use a infrared temp gun and see if I can distinguish which is getting so hot. Thank you for the replies! Kiran On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 11:45:02 AM UTC-4, blkadder wrote: I was just having a look at the manual for the clock, and was thinking that the adjustable trimpot at R26 should also be checked. Being it is adjustable, could it be that it may have failed somehow? Just a thought. Ron On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: Hi folks, glad to find this group! I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18 tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I thought I would ask here. Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Maybe a month later, I started to notice the left most digit was faintly showing numbers, and seemed to be influenced by the next to right digit. So I thought perhaps the drivers I got from eBay weren't good, so I swapped them around, trying to see if it made any difference. Unfortunately, I trashed the two original driver chips that came with the kit. So far swapping the drivers around among the six I have, hasn't changed anything.. or if it has, the digits lighting that shouldn't be have moved from tube to tube. Well I let the clock run like this for a week or so, and one day I just happened to feel around the voltage regulator U1 (L7805CV).. and it's blazing hot. I put a temp probe on it and it's running at 140F in open air, and when I built the clock, I epoxied a heatsink to it. It never ever used to get this hot. In fact the clock has run for years in a closed enclosure with very little ventilation. It just never produced much heat at all. I swapped both driver chips for two others, and it still gets just as hot. When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just above room temperature. So my guess is has to be one of two things I replaced; C6, or the driver chips. I think it's the drivers, and I'd like to get a pair from somewhere reputable so I can at least rule them out as the problem. I've seen some that appear to be ceramic, instead of plastic cased.. claimed to be 'milspec' but I donno if that's BS or what. Any help is appreciated! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/c3192283-c525-4403-bed6-a3979a06f065%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/5E9F8D179B5D4EC6B1EAE2F3F0C0174F
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Kiran, PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their Spectrum model uses the IN-18 nixies and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice feature! They also have a couple different cases available for the Spectrum model. I recently bought one and would recommend them. It runs nice and cool. www.pvelectroniccs.com Jeff Walton div Original message /divdivFrom: Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com /divdivDate:03/28/2015 12:51 PM (GMT-06:00) /divdivTo: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com /divdivCc: /divdivSubject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating /divdiv /divBy the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/kpajqa4i3e7t8h9rpror39tx.1427566976947%40email.android.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
