Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From

2006-06-16 Thread Igor Roshchin

Thu Jun 15 21:51:40 EDT 2006 
Paul Stenquist wrote:

 Jpeg is a compressed file. Tiff is an uncompressed file. When you open 
 a jpeg in PhotoShop, the software decompresses the file, restoring it 
 to original size.

A few academic corrections (aka nit-picking) which I hope
might help somebody people to obtain a better understanding of 
what is happening.
Strictly speaking, when a jpeg is read and displayed, it is the
image, and not the file that is decompressed. I.e. jpeg format
assumes a special format of encoding the image pixels into a
smaller data volume, resulting in smaller file size.
This algorithm is not applicable to any other type of data.

Other compression algorithms (e.g. zip, which is lossless ) can be used 
on both data and images (e.g. in a compressed TIFF or PDF).
When used on images, zip-compression essentially compresses image-data 
part of the file, rather similarly to how any file is compressed with
zip.

In either case, the number of pixels in the image is unchanged
(unless you resize the image), which results in the same file size
if you save the image as uncompressed TIFF (or any other uncompressed
bitmap format, i.e. where each the value of each pixel is stored as is,-
what I would call a pixelmap).  If you use compression in the TIFF, 
the size may very depending on the type of compression and type of the
image.

Igor



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Re: PESO - My Lonely Ass Redux

2006-06-16 Thread Cotty
On 15/6/06, Paul Stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:

I might prefer your ass in hell

Mark!

(the best ones are always out of context :-)

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Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in JPEGMode)

2006-06-16 Thread Cotty
On 15/6/06, Ryan Brooks, discombobulated, unleashed:

You're not getting more dynamic range, you're getting a smaller 
quantization between dynamic range steps.

So a jpeg and a RAW file shot from the same camera with the same sensor
have the same 'latitude'?

If represented as a stairway in a house from ground floor to first (or
first floor to second for the US market ;-), the jpeg house has (say) 15
steps taking you up, while the RAW house has (say) 32 steps taking you
up to the same height?

And so this is why shooting RAW allows greater flexibility in terms of
'dynamic range' of an image?

One point: surely an LCD monitor can't display that dynamic range fully
for pics viewed on a web page?

Could a print from a best quality inkjet printer?



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Not a mathematician, nor a wet darkroom dude, just a bloke with a camera ;-))


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RE: Where Do All the Pixels Come From

2006-06-16 Thread Bob W
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On 
 Behalf Of keith_w
 
 Perhaps you'll pardon my ignorance, but, how does the 
 software know what to 
 add back, and where to put it?
 

In some cases it doesn't, because jpeg is a lossy algorithm. However,
in general compression techniques find patterns in the source data,
and identify the frequency with which they occur. They store the
pattern itself  the frequency once in the destination and replace
other occurrences with references to the pattern. To reconstruct the
original they replace the references with the actual pattern.

This is a much simplified explanation!

Bob



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Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in JPEGMode)

2006-06-16 Thread Cotty
On 16/6/06, Cotty, discombobulated, unleashed:

So a jpeg and a RAW file shot from the same camera with the same sensor
have the same 'latitude'?

Actually I can see that's bollocks. What I meant to ask was:

So a jpeg and a RAW file shot with the same camera with the same sensor
have the same 'exposure range' ?

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Re: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/06/15 Thu PM 07:59:08 GMT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
 
 Tom,
 
 I think you're right that there is a very slight difference between
 the Tiff and jpg saving for 1st generation.  The bigger problem that I
 see is that both of them are 8 bit while the sensor is 12 bit.  So you
 are throwing a lot more not shooting raw than you are between jpg and
 Tiff.  I guess I'm saying that if you are willing to throw away 4 bits
 by not using raw, the remaining difference between Tiff and jpg right
 out of the camera are probably not worth the bother.  Tiff is giving
 you the storage requirements of raw and the clipping of data of jpg.
 In some ways, the worst of both worlds.
 
 Thoughts?
 
 -- 
 Bruce

On the DL2, there is no option to save as Tiff but the 
converter gives you the option of changing the RAW file to 
either 8 or 12 bit Tiffs.

m

 
 
 Thursday, June 15, 2006, 12:48:32 PM, you wrote:
 
 TC Of course not... :-)  I didn't mean to imply the .jpg quality setting in 
 the
 TC camera (although that would obviously have a bearing). I meant the color,
 TC contrast, lighting, etc.,  of the subject to be captured.
 
 TC All I'm saying is that assuming all .jpgs are lossy, to any degree, and
 TC knowing that I don't necessarialy understand, nor can predict what the
 TC algorithm will do, I chose to shoot .tiffs, based on the fact that storage
 TC is relatively inexpensive.
 
 
 TC Tom C.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
 Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 15:32:17 -0400
 
  it all depends on the photo and the .jpg quality one is saving at.
 
 I've never shot JPEG at anything but the highest quality level.
 
 Kenneth Waller
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Tom C [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
 
 
  I have but it all depends on the photo and the .jpg quality one is saving
   at.  I must admit I saw it really fast when using a Sony Mavica. I
   preferred
   .tiffs over .jpgs for this reason and because by their nature .jpgs are
   lossy compression.  I felt I was truly getting a '1st gen' image with
   .tiffs, where with .jpgs out of camera, I already had an image that may
   not
   contain everything that was shot.
  
   This may be a little simplistic or a splitting of hairs, but it made
 sense
   to me.
  
  
   Tom C.
  
  
  
  
  
  From: Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
  To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
  Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
  Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 13:09:28 -0400
  
No quality losses when saving the first JPEG after editing.
  
  I guess I knew that but haven't observed the difference. Has anybody?
  
  Kenneth Waller
  
  - Original Message -
  From: Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
  
  
No quality losses when saving the first JPEG after editing.
   
-Adam
   
   
Kenneth Waller wrote:
I guess I don't see the advantage of shooting TIFF over highest
quality
JPEG. What's to be gained?
   
Kenneth Waller
   
- Original Message -
From: Don Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
   
   
I have yet to shoot a single picture in JPG. I've had the camera
 since
last year and started shooting TIFF because I had to learn how to
 use
the camera and hadn't a clue about handling RAW files anyway. I had
  only
one card for months -- a 512 Kingston and it was enough. But I work
mainly indoors and can unload a card without trouble. I did venture
out
with the small card once or twice and didn't have trouble. I now
 have
three cards ) 1/2, 1 and 2 gig) and don't really need so many. But
like
all electronic things they can fail, so having several is good
  planning.
I shoot only RAW now and am perfectly satisfied with the results.
   
Don W
   
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
   
   I really don't see getting more photos on a card as an issue.  That
  would
   be the least of my concerns. 2GB of space will net about 185 pics in
  RAW
   using the DS - that's certainly a fair number of pics for a day.
 Cards
   are
   cheap now - a 1gb card can be purchased for less than the cost of a
  roll
   of
   film and processing with prints. After all, if I'm going to do
   photography,
   I'd want the best possible results, and if shooting raw will provide
   that,
   then raw it is.  If JPEG will provide appropriate quality, then
   there's
   nothing wrong with shooting in that format.
   
   Perhaps it's just me being irksome, but it seems odd that you'd go
 out
  to
   make photographs and just dump what could be good pictures because
 you
   don't want to take the time to learn a few simple techniques to
 

Re: Re: My kludge is broken (further question)

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Now that you've described it fully, yes it seems normal, that's exactly 
 how my DS works.  It half sleeps and has to be awakened with a kiss to 
 it shutter button before it will respond to the AE lock button.

Thanks.  I missed some posts from last night so this will be a catchall answer. 
 Every camera I have owned up to now has
had either just a meter or had other electronics that sleep
at the same time as the meter.  When I saw the LCD still 
activated on the DL2, I assumed that the beast was awake
completely.  Hence my concern that metering apparently 
didn't work on pressing the AE-L button.  Being four-eyed,
I cannot see the whole of the information in the viewfinder
and, even when looking for it, often find it hard to discern 
against background illumination.

Now; why should the camera have separate alive times for 
the meter and everything else?  Just a power saver?

m

 
 mike wilson wrote:
 
 Brand new and freshly recharged.  Might not be up to full capacity.
 
 It's very consistent now.  Turn off and on; no stopdown.  Half press 
 shutter; works.  Between 5 and 10 seconds later; stopped working.  Half 
 press; back again.
 
 Does everyone else's kludge work as soon as the camera is turned on?  Does 
 it stop before the camera sleeps?
 
 
   
 
 From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/06/15 Thu AM 10:17:02 GMT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: My kludge is broken
 
 Your batteries are bad. Buy some lithiums and be done with it.
 Paul
 On Jun 15, 2006, at 4:59 AM, mike wilson wrote:
 
 
 
 I think
 
 ist DL2.  I had the batteries out for some time, charging.  When I 
 mounted a plain vanilla K lens, the AE-L button would not stop it down 
 for a reading.  Tried a couple of different ones, made sure it was in 
 manual; no effect.
 
 Went into the menu and checked that aperture ring use was allowed; 
 tick.  It's the default, anyway.
 
 Came out of the menu and it worked.
 
 Switch it off and on; doesn't work.  Touch the shutter button; works.  
 Leave it five seconds; doesn't work, even though the display is still 
 working.
 
 Now, I'm nervous.
 
 m



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Re: RE: Bye, Bye Bill Gates

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: Tom C [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/06/15 Thu PM 11:20:31 GMT
 To: pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: RE: Bye, Bye Bill Gates
 
 Bill Gates for President? ;-)

He can certainly outbid the Bushes for it.


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Re: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/06/15 Thu PM 11:37:55 GMT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
 
 This has been a lively and educational discussion.  I shot quite a few
 JPEGs today and have decided that I'll probably stick to raw for 98.76% of
 the photography I do.  

You just made that up.


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FS: several Pentax lenses (and an AF body)

2006-06-16 Thread Carlos Royo
For sale: (I sent this message yesterday, but it didn't show in the list 
or the archives. Sorry if it appears twice)

SMC Pentax-A 15 mm. 3.5, , an excellent ultra wide lens, LN- 600 euros.

SMC Pentax-A 50 mm. 1.2, the fastest lens Pentax has ever made, in A
version.
LN- 250 euros.

SMC Pentax 85 mm. 1.8 (K series)+ original lens hood, well used, but no
dust inside. The lens was serviced 3 years ago and shows some brassing,
but the aperture and focus rings work smoothly, There's a very tiny
coating mark in the back element, hardly visible, which doesn't affect
the image quality. As many of you will know, nowadays it is a very
difficult to find lens. 250 euros.

SMC Pentax-FA 80-320 mm. 4.5-5.6 (AF, black version). Ex+. 150 euros.

Pentax MZ-5 AF SLR + F remote switch and FG battery pack. Ex+. 120 euros.

Prices don't include shipping expenses from Spain.

Regards,

Carlos





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Re: Test picture from DA21mm 3.2

2006-06-16 Thread Sylwester Pietrzyk
On 14.06.2006, at 18:34 , Joseph Tainter wrote:

 The question in my mind will be performance relative to the FA 20  
 F2.8.
 I do hope to get the DA 21, and will test it against my FA 20.

 Some have criticized the FA 20 for being weak in the corners at wider
 apertures. With the restricted FOV of the D, I haven't noticed  
 that. On
 Photodo the FA 20 F2.8 tests as the sharpest 20/2.8 except for one  
 from
 Zeiss or Leica (I forget which) that costs three times as much.

 I greatly like the FA 20 F2.8.
And Arnold wrote that FA 20/2.8 can't match DA 21 until f8 si it  
seems that DA21 is really fantastic lens. Maybe it was not too  
fortunate to use JPEG straight from Ds, but it is evident that  
quality in the corners is similar to center even when wide open and  
no signs of CAs(!!!) Together with DA 40 and DA 70 it will be a very  
nice set of ultra small and light high quality lenses for DSLR all  
with the same 49 mm filter size.

Cheers,
Sylwek



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Re: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: mike wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/06/16 Fri AM 07:53:18 GMT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
 
 
  
  From: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: 2006/06/15 Thu PM 07:59:08 GMT
  To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
  Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
  
  Tom,
  
  I think you're right that there is a very slight difference between
  the Tiff and jpg saving for 1st generation.  The bigger problem that I
  see is that both of them are 8 bit while the sensor is 12 bit.  So you
  are throwing a lot more not shooting raw than you are between jpg and
  Tiff.  I guess I'm saying that if you are willing to throw away 4 bits
  by not using raw, the remaining difference between Tiff and jpg right
  out of the camera are probably not worth the bother.  Tiff is giving
  you the storage requirements of raw and the clipping of data of jpg.
  In some ways, the worst of both worlds.
  
  Thoughts?
  
  -- 
  Bruce
 
 On the DL2, there is no option to save as Tiff but the 
 converter gives you the option of changing the RAW file to 
 either 8 or 12 bit Tiffs.
 
 m

16bit Tiffs.

 
  
  
  Thursday, June 15, 2006, 12:48:32 PM, you wrote:
  
  TC Of course not... :-)  I didn't mean to imply the .jpg quality setting 
  in the
  TC camera (although that would obviously have a bearing). I meant the 
  color,
  TC contrast, lighting, etc.,  of the subject to be captured.
  
  TC All I'm saying is that assuming all .jpgs are lossy, to any degree, and
  TC knowing that I don't necessarialy understand, nor can predict what the
  TC algorithm will do, I chose to shoot .tiffs, based on the fact that 
  storage
  TC is relatively inexpensive.
  
  
  TC Tom C.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  From: Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
  To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
  Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
  Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 15:32:17 -0400
  
   it all depends on the photo and the .jpg quality one is saving at.
  
  I've never shot JPEG at anything but the highest quality level.
  
  Kenneth Waller
  
  - Original Message -
  From: Tom C [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
  
  
   I have but it all depends on the photo and the .jpg quality one is 
   saving
at.  I must admit I saw it really fast when using a Sony Mavica. I
preferred
.tiffs over .jpgs for this reason and because by their nature .jpgs are
lossy compression.  I felt I was truly getting a '1st gen' image with
.tiffs, where with .jpgs out of camera, I already had an image that may
not
contain everything that was shot.
   
This may be a little simplistic or a splitting of hairs, but it made
  sense
to me.
   
   
Tom C.
   
   
   
   
   
   From: Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
   To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
   Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
   Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 13:09:28 -0400
   
 No quality losses when saving the first JPEG after editing.
   
   I guess I knew that but haven't observed the difference. Has anybody?
   
   Kenneth Waller
   
   - Original Message -
   From: Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode
   
   
 No quality losses when saving the first JPEG after editing.

 -Adam


 Kenneth Waller wrote:
 I guess I don't see the advantage of shooting TIFF over highest
 quality
 JPEG. What's to be gained?

 Kenneth Waller

 - Original Message -
 From: Don Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode


 I have yet to shoot a single picture in JPG. I've had the camera
  since
 last year and started shooting TIFF because I had to learn how to
  use
 the camera and hadn't a clue about handling RAW files anyway. I had
   only
 one card for months -- a 512 Kingston and it was enough. But I work
 mainly indoors and can unload a card without trouble. I did venture
 out
 with the small card once or twice and didn't have trouble. I now
  have
 three cards ) 1/2, 1 and 2 gig) and don't really need so many. But
 like
 all electronic things they can fail, so having several is good
   planning.
 I shoot only RAW now and am perfectly satisfied with the results.

 Don W

 Shel Belinkoff wrote:

I really don't see getting more photos on a card as an issue.  That
   would
be the least of my concerns. 2GB of space will net about 185 pics 
in
   RAW
using the DS - that's certainly a fair number of pics for a day.
  Cards
are
cheap now - a 1gb card can be purchased for less than the cost of a
   roll
of
film and processing with prints. After all, if I'm going to do
photography,
I'd want the best possible results, and if shooting raw will 
provide

Re: Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in JPEGMode)

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/06/16 Fri AM 06:56:43 GMT
 To: pentax list PDML@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in 
 JPEGMode)
 
 On 15/6/06, Ryan Brooks, discombobulated, unleashed:
 
 You're not getting more dynamic range, you're getting a smaller 
 quantization between dynamic range steps.
 
 So a jpeg and a RAW file shot from the same camera with the same sensor
 have the same 'latitude'?
 
 If represented as a stairway in a house from ground floor to first (or
 first floor to second for the US market ;-), the jpeg house has (say) 15
 steps taking you up, while the RAW house has (say) 32 steps taking you
 up to the same height?
 
 And so this is why shooting RAW allows greater flexibility in terms of
 'dynamic range' of an image?
 
 One point: surely an LCD monitor can't display that dynamic range fully
 for pics viewed on a web page?
 
 Could a print from a best quality inkjet printer?
 

As I understand it 8-) no, because those houses only have 
eight steps.

Unlike the film house, which has an infinite number.  No 
wonder it's so slow and clunky.


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Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From

2006-06-16 Thread Don Williams
I've always believed that the compression software creates a table. So 
for example in a line of 3000 pixels there may be 967 particular ones 
(in blue sky there might be more) the table lists them and their 
positions and stores the data. The program reconstructs the image from 
the data in the table. Blue skies compress very well as do any large 
areas of the same hue and density. Try this with 'lossless' compression 
of a TIFF with plenty of sky, then one with a lot of detail trees, 
buildings, etc. The files will be very different in size. But this is an 
oversimplification. What do our software experts say? JPEG files are 
quite complicated and I may be totally wrong. Its also possible to drop 
the least significant bits in each byte without messing the images up 
too much. You can do all kinds of arcane things with these bits.

Don W


Bob W wrote:
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On 
 Behalf Of keith_w

 Perhaps you'll pardon my ignorance, but, how does the 
 software know what to 
 add back, and where to put it?

 

 In some cases it doesn't, because jpeg is a lossy algorithm. However,
 in general compression techniques find patterns in the source data,
 and identify the frequency with which they occur. They store the
 pattern itself  the frequency once in the destination and replace
 other occurrences with references to the pattern. To reconstruct the
 original they replace the references with the actual pattern.

 This is a much simplified explanation!

 Bob



   


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www.kolumbus.fi/mimosa/
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Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread Lon Williamson
Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:
 LOL ... That's exactly what I said in the first response to this  
 thread .. :-)
 
 Godfrey
 
 On Jun 15, 2006, at 7:55 AM, Lon Williamson wrote: 
Try shooting jpg as if you were shooting slide film.  In my  
experience,
they're quite similar.

Yeah, I know that now.  Usually I read through responses, see my
position covered, and then don't post at all.  I didn't read through
things yesterday.

Lon


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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread Paul Stenquist
It doesn't defame Wasti. As long as attribution is made, It's probably 
fair game. It's like quoting an author.
Paul
On Jun 16, 2006, at 1:36 AM, P. J. Alling wrote:

 I don't know, but Mark gave copyright credit for the image on his web
 page to Frederick Wasti. it would seem that the credit for the images 
 on
 the ebay advert. were also attributed to Mr. Wasti.  Based on the
 quality I believe he, (Mr. Wasti), has cause for a defamation action.

 Paul Stenquist wrote:

 Since the charts are originally from a magazine, they're not Mark's
 property. If anyone's copyright is violated, it's the original
 publisher.
 Paul
 On Jun 15, 2006, at 7:36 PM, Don Sanderson wrote:



 Mark, I've seen your page quoted several times on eekBay.
 I've also had my photos used in other auctions.
 I've reported all instances of copy theft (yours and mine) to
 the powers that be.
 Sometimes helps, sometimes not.
 Actually, I feel rather sorry for poor As*s that can't get thru
 life by the rules without cheating.  ;-(

 Don

 On 6/15/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 eBay auction
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
 ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/
 762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
 Looks a lot like this:
 http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm

 (Already reported to eBay)

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 www.robertstech.com
 412-687-2835

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Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread keith_w
Kenneth Waller wrote:
 You know, I hate to be picky about this, but...nothing is actually LOST, 
 per se, on initial capture of a jpeg image.
 What's there is there, as your lens/camera system captures it and delivers 
 it to the sensor. Just because you have chosen to capture an image as a jpeg
 doesn't mean you've selected an inferior image format


 Not my understanding.
 
 LOST as compared to some non lossy capture modes. JPEG compresses file size 
 by selectively discarding data.. The file is compressed relative to other 
 possible file formats.
 
 Kenneth Waller

I misspoke, didn't I.
A jpeg automatically compresses the image data. That's the nature of the beast.
Even the least compression means you actually lose some data, but I'm not sure 
we'd see it under normal circumstances.
As you tell the camera to reduce the image size, you lose more and more.
And that is before you start fooling around with it!

Thanks for  reminding me of that.

keith

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Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread keith_w
Tom C wrote:
 I hate to be picky too because I readily admit that you could easily show me 
 the results of a raw, .tif, and .jpg out of camera and 99 times out a 100, I 
 probably could not tell the difference.

I agree with that.

 However, given the vast difference in size between the file formats, knowing 
 that .jpg is by nature lossy, I still believe something IS being lost, 
 besides just the bytes saved due to compression.  It's just that our eyes 
 may not readily perceive it. I recognize that it's the same number of pixels 
 captured in a raw file vs. a .jpg.   I will happily accept being wrong on 
 this issue.

My manual tells me that with its highest level of resolution, which is 3264 X 
2448, the camera saves the images as RAW, TIFF or one of two levels of jpegs.
All the remaining levels of resolution, decreasing to 640 X 480, are saved as 
either TIFF or JPEG.

 With film it was easy.  A transparency from the film in camera was a 1st 
 generation image.  A negative was too, but to readily view it, it needed to 
 be made positive (usually a print) which was a 2nd generation image. For 
 that matter a print or projection of a slide was second generation as well, 
 as is of course, any photo we view online or in print.  So it can get pretty 
 silly.  For me it was about having the best 1st gen image to work from.  Raw 
 surely must be the best, with .tif coming in second, and .jpg 3rd.

Yes, I can understand that, having spent untold hours looking up at a negative 
in an enlarger... getting a crick in my back!  g
I was obsessed at how beautiful a negative was, such detail that would never 
be captured on a print...

 The problem I have, in principle only, with shooting .jpgs is that I don't 
 view them as a 1st gen  image.  One can believe that they are, because 
 that's what the camera spits out, but are they?
 
 
 Tom C.

I guess RAW is the best one has, isn't it.
I can't speak to .tiff images, because I haven't figured out what it's good 
for yet. That's MY problem. One day I'll look into that.

So far as jpegs are concerned, I think the original high pixel count images 
are *very* good quality, at least they are in my camera, and most of us will 
never need more quality than they give. Usually.
Of course, there are always exceptions. But for the bulk of any work I do, a 
high quality jpeg will do very well. I do minimum manipulation of my images, 
and I always keep the original jpeg in it's own file, using copies for 
manipulation purposes.
Therein lies another discussion, for another time...

keith

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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
Paul Stenquist wrote:

Since the charts are originally from a magazine, they're not Mark's  
property. If anyone's copyright is violated, it's the original  
publisher.

All the accompanying text is mine, as is the design and layout (right
down to the CSS classes which obviously don't even *do* anything once
the HTML is posted on eBay's server). The photo belongs to Fred
Wasti... or at least the original photo did - since it was just linked
to my server I have replaced it with a different image now :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ

Paul
On Jun 15, 2006, at 7:36 PM, Don Sanderson wrote:

 Mark, I've seen your page quoted several times on eekBay.
 I've also had my photos used in other auctions.
 I've reported all instances of copy theft (yours and mine) to
 the powers that be.
 Sometimes helps, sometimes not.
 Actually, I feel rather sorry for poor As*s that can't get thru
 life by the rules without cheating.  ;-(

 Don

 On 6/15/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 eBay auction
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? 
 ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/ 
 762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
 Looks a lot like this:
 http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm
 
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Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in JPEGMode)

2006-06-16 Thread David Mann
On Jun 16, 2006, at 8:33 PM, mike wilson wrote:

 Unlike the film house, which has an infinite number.  No
 wonder it's so slow and clunky.

I've just finished wading through four medium format scans.  After  
all that, my house is looking something like this:
http://www.worldofescher.com/gallery/A23L.html

- Dizzy Dave


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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread David Savage
LOL

Good one Mark.

Dave

On 6/16/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Paul Stenquist wrote:

 Since the charts are originally from a magazine, they're not Mark's
 property. If anyone's copyright is violated, it's the original
 publisher.

 All the accompanying text is mine, as is the design and layout (right
 down to the CSS classes which obviously don't even *do* anything once
 the HTML is posted on eBay's server). The photo belongs to Fred
 Wasti... or at least the original photo did - since it was just linked
 to my server I have replaced it with a different image now :

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ

 Paul
 On Jun 15, 2006, at 7:36 PM, Don Sanderson wrote:
 
  Mark, I've seen your page quoted several times on eekBay.
  I've also had my photos used in other auctions.
  I've reported all instances of copy theft (yours and mine) to
  the powers that be.
  Sometimes helps, sometimes not.
  Actually, I feel rather sorry for poor As*s that can't get thru
  life by the rules without cheating.  ;-(
 
  Don
 
  On 6/15/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  eBay auction
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
  ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/
  762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
  Looks a lot like this:
  http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm

 --
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 www.robertstech.com
 412-687-2835

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Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread keith_w
John Francis wrote:
 On Thu, Jun 15, 2006 at 02:09:02PM -0700, keith_w wrote:
 The image captured as a tiff or a jpeg is converted by the camera's internal 
 firmware (I suppose ?) to be what it is. Same with RAW.

 Any losses that occur to any image captured and saved happen after the 
 photog 
 grabs hold of the image and messes around with it!


 Not really.  The original capture, as registered on the sensor,
 has 12-bit data.  That level of precision is retained in a RAW
 file, but in a TIFF or JPEG low-order bits are thrown away.
 It's not quite as simple as saying the bottom-most four bits
 are lost, because there are also some non-linear processing
 steps involved, but there is no way to store twelve bits of
 information in only eight bits.

Okay.
Re TIFF images, my manual says the tiff images are non-compressed.
That's just a gratuitous comment, as I don't know that much about tiff images, 
except that they are way too large! grin

But, by definition, jpegs are always compressed, from a little bit to a lot, 
depending on the file size you set.
I had not addressed that truth in my previous statement because I was thinking 
of how a jpeg image increasingly deteriorates the more times you manipulate 
the image and save it.
So, my mind got stuck on that aspect of it.

You're right, of course.

Thanks,

keith

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Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread keith_w
Tom C wrote:
 Thanks for that concised rendering of what happens during conversion from 
 senor to file format.  I think most of us have a fuzzy to semi-sharp idea of 
 what's going on.  In my case I read it and quickly forget the finer details.
 
 
 Tom C.


 From: Godfrey DiGiorgi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 What the camera captures on the sensor is RAW data, a 12bit deep
 intensity map in an RGB mosaic with one value for each photosite.

[...]

I totally agree with Tom...concise and to the point.
In fact, I saved it to read again and possibly absorb some of it this time thru!

Thanks, Godfrey!

keith

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Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in JPEGMode)

2006-06-16 Thread Aaron Reynolds
On Jun 16, 2006, at 2:56 AM, Cotty wrote:

 One point: surely an LCD monitor can't display that dynamic range fully
 for pics viewed on a web page?

 Could a print from a best quality inkjet printer?

No -- the point of those extra steps is for messing around with the 
image afterwards.

-Aaron

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Ross Ensign camera info needed

2006-06-16 Thread brooksdj
Any one familiar with a Ross Ensign folding camera.
Lens has on it: Made in England, Epsilon 105mm, Rosstar F4.5

Obviously it a 120 format folder, and the shutter/ap is done on the lens,but 
any info on
the camera
itself and or basic operation. Range finder type of camera, correct.
I see two silver knobs and a hot shoe. The knobs are for film advacnment AFAICT.
I know bellows pinholes could be a problem and it may have a dirt spec in the 
lense. Would
that
cause any problems being how short the actual lens is on the bellows.(its on 
the side)

Dave




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Re: Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in JPEGMode)

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: David Mann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/06/16 Fri AM 11:03:38 GMT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in 
 JPEGMode)
 
 On Jun 16, 2006, at 8:33 PM, mike wilson wrote:
 
  Unlike the film house, which has an infinite number.  No
  wonder it's so slow and clunky.
 
 I've just finished wading through four medium format scans.  After  
 all that, my house is looking something like this:
 http://www.worldofescher.com/gallery/A23L.html

You need pest control.  Those buggers will knacker your 
woodwork.


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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread Don Sanderson
Good move!

Don

On 6/16/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Paul Stenquist wrote:

 Since the charts are originally from a magazine, they're not Mark's
 property. If anyone's copyright is violated, it's the original
 publisher.

 All the accompanying text is mine, as is the design and layout (right
 down to the CSS classes which obviously don't even *do* anything once
 the HTML is posted on eBay's server). The photo belongs to Fred
 Wasti... or at least the original photo did - since it was just linked
 to my server I have replaced it with a different image now :

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ

 Paul
 On Jun 15, 2006, at 7:36 PM, Don Sanderson wrote:
 
  Mark, I've seen your page quoted several times on eekBay.
  I've also had my photos used in other auctions.
  I've reported all instances of copy theft (yours and mine) to
  the powers that be.
  Sometimes helps, sometimes not.
  Actually, I feel rather sorry for poor As*s that can't get thru
  life by the rules without cheating.  ;-(
 
  Don
 
  On 6/15/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  eBay auction
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
  ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/
  762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
  Looks a lot like this:
  http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm

 --
 Mark Roberts Photography  Multimedia
 www.robertstech.com
 412-687-2835

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Re: Ross Ensign camera info needed

2006-06-16 Thread Adam Maas
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   Any one familiar with a Ross Ensign folding camera.
Lens has on it: Made in England, Epsilon 105mm, Rosstar F4.5

Obviously it a 120 format folder, and the shutter/ap is done on the lens,but 
any info on
the camera
itself and or basic operation. Range finder type of camera, correct.
I see two silver knobs and a hot shoe. The knobs are for film advacnment 
AFAICT.
I know bellows pinholes could be a problem and it may have a dirt spec in the 
lense. Would
that
cause any problems being how short the actual lens is on the bellows.(its on 
the side)

Dave   
   

  


The Classic Camera forum at photo.net is a great place to get such info, 
they're pretty friendly in there and are mostly oriented towards 120 
folders and TLR's.

-Adam

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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
Don Sanderson wrote:

Good move!

:)
You know, I agree with your assessment that this guy is more pathetic
than anything else. I've seen other people reference my pages in eBay
auctions before and it's fine with me as long as they give credit and
a URL - I don't even demand that they ask permission first. This sad
case couldn't even be bothered to remove the style tags from my HTML
code or the Please don't telephone me with questions about this lens
text. Watta loser! (Love how he describes the lens as Macro, wide
angle, zoom!)

I'm going to update the image with something a little more obnoxious
every day and see how long it takes until it's noticed.

BTW: If the person who called to tell me about this auction is a PDML
lurker - thanks!
 
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412-687-2835

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Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
I know of several Windows freeware apps for secure - or at least more
secure - file deletion. I need to do some hard drive scrubbing for a
couple of clients with Macs. Can someone point me toward equivalent
software for the Mac platform?
 
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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Lon Williamson
I haven't used Macs since the Quadra days, but Norton Utilities
was sold for Macs in those days and did have a hard disk scrubbing
utility; essentially multiple writes to each empty sector.

-Lon

Mark Roberts wrote:

 I know of several Windows freeware apps for secure - or at least more
 secure - file deletion. I need to do some hard drive scrubbing for a
 couple of clients with Macs. Can someone point me toward equivalent
 software for the Mac platform?


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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Jun 16, 2006, at 8:50 AM, Mark Roberts wrote:

 Can someone point me toward equivalent
 software for the Mac platform?

There's actually an option right in the OS when emptying the trash -- 
secure empty trash.

-Aaron

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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread David Savage
Try Brillo products for all your scrubbing needs.

Sorry, I can't help.

Dave S (But I had to say something. Don't ask I just had to.)

On 6/16/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I need to do some hard drive scrubbing for a
 couple of clients with Macs.

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Re: Ross Ensign camera info needed

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 07:34:58 US/Eastern
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Ross Ensign camera info needed
 
   Any one familiar with a Ross Ensign folding camera.
 Lens has on it: Made in England, Epsilon 105mm, Rosstar F4.5
 
 Obviously it a 120 format folder, and the shutter/ap is done on the lens,but 
 any info on
 the camera
 itself and or basic operation. Range finder type of camera, correct.
 I see two silver knobs and a hot shoe. The knobs are for film advacnment 
 AFAICT.
 I know bellows pinholes could be a problem and it may have a dirt spec in the 
 lense. Would
 that
 cause any problems being how short the actual lens is on the bellows.(its on 
 the side)

It's an uncoated, non-computer designed lens.  Have a guess.  
8-))
http://www.ensign.demon.co.uk/ensigncamerapage.htm
http://www.ozcamera.com/ensign-folding.html
http://www.vintagecameras.co.uk/folding.htm
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/ross_ensign/ross_ensign_cameras.htm
http://www.testreports.co.uk/photography/ap/search/subequipsearch.asp?EquipSubType_ID=21
Go through the pages on this one to see a test on the camera/lens.


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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
No need for a third party utility.

* The Finder includes a Secure Erase feature for items you put in  
the trash. See the menu command Finder - Secure Empty Trash.

* If you need to erase an entire disk drive volume, the Disk Utility  
application includes secure erasure of disk volumes.

Godfrey


On Jun 16, 2006, at 5:50 AM, Mark Roberts wrote:

 I know of several Windows freeware apps for secure - or at least more
 secure - file deletion. I need to do some hard drive scrubbing for a
 couple of clients with Macs. Can someone point me toward equivalent
 software for the Mac platform?


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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: P. J. Alling 
Subject: Re: Hmm, have a look at this


I don't know, but Mark gave copyright credit for the image on his web 
 page to Frederick Wasti. it would seem that the credit for the images on 
 the ebay advert. were also attributed to Mr. Wasti.  Based on the 
 quality I believe he, (Mr. Wasti), has cause for a defamation action.

Breech of copyright, maybe, but defamation?
Hardly.
Copying is the highest form of flattery, after all.

William Robb



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Re: My kludge is broken (further question)

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Jun 16, 2006, at 1:04 AM, mike wilson wrote:

 Now; why should the camera have separate alive times for
 the meter and everything else?  Just a power saver?

Yes. Powering the meter means powering the illuminated displays in  
the viewfinder, not the LCD. Those illuminators consume a lot of  
power. The top-deck LCD consumes very little.

Turning off the AF and metering circuitry while leaving the camera  
powered up overall means that with the lenses it is primarily  
designed for (A, F, FA, DA series lenses), taking a picture is a  
matter of half-pressing the shutter release, framing, then pressing  
it the rest of the way to release the shutter. It would have been  
nice if the AE-L button also activated the meter so you could use the  
older lenses in two button presses instead of three.

Godfrey

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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: Mark Roberts
Subject: Re: Hmm, have a look at this



The photo belongs to Fred
 Wasti... or at least the original photo did - since it was just linked
 to my server I have replaced it with a different image now :

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ

I remember having to do that from time to time with the PUG.

William Robb 



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camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread Tom Reese
Hey all,

Our photo club currently has competitions in slides and prints. We're going to 
combine projected digital images and slides in future contests in order to 
provide maximum opportunity for participation. Members won't have to make 
prints to enter contests and they'll save a lot of aggravation and expense.

My question from other club members is:

are you having contests with projected images? What resolution do you use for 
the images? Have you had any problems?

thanks for your help.

Tom Reese

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Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread Doug Franklin
keith_w wrote:

 Re TIFF images, my manual says the tiff images are non-compressed.
 That's just a gratuitous comment, as I don't know that much about tiff 
 images, 
 except that they are way too large! grin

The manual is correct for your camera, or maybe even all cameras, but 
that's not a true statement about TIFF in general.  The image data 
stored inside a TIFF format file can be uncompressed or compressed, 
depending on the settings used to save the TIFF file.  In fact, a TIFF 
file can even contain an image compressed in JPEG format (or several 
other compression formats/methods).

-- 
Thanks,
DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread pnstenquist

















































HAR! Good for you. I thought he just picked up the charts. He really is a 
scumbag. Nice price on the lens though.
Paul

 -- Original message --
From: Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Paul Stenquist wrote:
 
 Since the charts are originally from a magazine, they're not Mark's  
 property. If anyone's copyright is violated, it's the original  
 publisher.
 
 All the accompanying text is mine, as is the design and layout (right
 down to the CSS classes which obviously don't even *do* anything once
 the HTML is posted on eBay's server). The photo belongs to Fred
 Wasti... or at least the original photo did - since it was just linked
 to my server I have replaced it with a different image now :
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.e
 bay.com:80/762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ
 
 Paul
 On Jun 15, 2006, at 7:36 PM, Don Sanderson wrote:
 
  Mark, I've seen your page quoted several times on eekBay.
  I've also had my photos used in other auctions.
  I've reported all instances of copy theft (yours and mine) to
  the powers that be.
  Sometimes helps, sometimes not.
  Actually, I feel rather sorry for poor As*s that can't get thru
  life by the rules without cheating.  ;-(
 
  Don
 
  On 6/15/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  eBay auction
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? 
  ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/ 
  762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
  Looks a lot like this:
  http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm
  
 -- 
 Mark Roberts Photography  Multimedia
 www.robertstech.com
 412-687-2835
 
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Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From

2006-06-16 Thread Doug Franklin
Don Williams wrote:
 I've always believed that the compression software creates a table.

JPEG compression doesn't so much create a table, as it changes what is 
being stored.  Instead of pixel colors, it stores coefficients to a 
formula known as the Discrete Cosine Transformation (DCT).  When the 
JPEG data is loaded, the algorithm plugs these coefficient values back 
into the formula and ends up with an array of pixel colors that's very 
close to the original image, but usually not exactly the same.

Some compression formats, usually those based on what's known as Huffman 
Coding, do actually store a table that's specific to the image in the 
image data file.  When the compressed data is loaded, the algorithm 
(logically, not actually) looks up the data values from the file in that 
table and the table tells them what pixel colors those data values 
represent.

CCITT Group 3 and Group 4 fax images, OTOH, don't store the table at 
all.  The table is precomputed for eight exemplar images and every image 
compressed with Group 3 or Group 4 fax format compression uses the same 
table.

And the algorithms based on Lempel-Ziv encoding (LZ, LZW, LZ-77, etc.) 
don't store the table, because the decoder can rebuild it on the fly 
from the incoming compressed data.  IIRC, the GIF file format uses a 
form of LZ encoding.

The Zip, Arc, Rar, and other generic compressed file formats typically 
can use any of several compression algorithms on a file, and can use 
different ones for different files within the archive.

 Its also possible to drop the least significant bits in each byte
 without messing the images up too much. You can do all kinds of
 arcane things with these bits.

Actually, dropping some of the least significant bits is one of the 
effects of the JPEG algorithm.  And steganography is the study of 
methods of hiding other information in those least significant bits.

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DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Charles Robinson
On Jun 16, 2006, at 7:50, Mark Roberts wrote:

 I know of several Windows freeware apps for secure - or at least more
 secure - file deletion. I need to do some hard drive scrubbing for a
 couple of clients with Macs. Can someone point me toward equivalent
 software for the Mac platform?


The Disk Utility application built into OSX has an erase deleted  
space option (with quite a few overwrite options) that should do the  
trick.

If you need to erase the ENTIRE harddrive you should be able to boot  
from one of the OSX install CDs (or DVD) and run the Disk Utility app  
from there - delete the partition and THEN do the scrubbing.

You'll find it the Applications\Utilities folder if it's still in its  
original location.

  -Charles

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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Reese
Subject: camera club question re: projected image contests


 Hey all,

 Our photo club currently has competitions in slides and prints. We're 
 going to combine projected digital images and slides in future contests in 
 order to provide maximum opportunity for participation. Members won't have 
 to make prints to enter contests and they'll save a lot of aggravation and 
 expense.

 My question from other club members is:

 are you having contests with projected images? What resolution do you use 
 for the images? Have you had any problems?

We just project slides. The club I belong to is quite happily ignoring 
digital.

William Robb 



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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread Adam Maas
Tom Reese wrote:
 Hey all,
 
 Our photo club currently has competitions in slides and prints. We're going 
 to combine projected digital images and slides in future contests in order to 
 provide maximum opportunity for participation. Members won't have to make 
 prints to enter contests and they'll save a lot of aggravation and expense.
 
 My question from other club members is:
 
 are you having contests with projected images? What resolution do you use for 
 the images? Have you had any problems?
 
 thanks for your help.
 
 Tom Reese
 

Projected digital is difficult due to the extremely low resolution of 
digital projectors. 1024x768 is high-rez for your typical digital projector.

-Adam


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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

No need for a third party utility.

* The Finder includes a Secure Erase feature for items you put in  
the trash. See the menu command Finder - Secure Empty Trash.

* If you need to erase an entire disk drive volume, the Disk Utility  
application includes secure erasure of disk volumes.

Which versions of the OS have these features? One of the Macs I'm
dealing with is a G3 Powerbook. Don't know which version it's running
yet, but it's at least 5 years old. maybe older.
 
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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Adam Maas
Mark Roberts wrote:
 Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:
 
 
No need for a third party utility.

* The Finder includes a Secure Erase feature for items you put in  
the trash. See the menu command Finder - Secure Empty Trash.

* If you need to erase an entire disk drive volume, the Disk Utility  
application includes secure erasure of disk volumes.
 
 
 Which versions of the OS have these features? One of the Macs I'm
 dealing with is a G3 Powerbook. Don't know which version it's running
 yet, but it's at least 5 years old. maybe older.
  

OS X has these features, Classic Mac OS will not. Age doesn't really 
matter, as all but the earliest G3 Powerbook will run some version of OS 
X if it has been installed.

-Adam


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Re: Where Do All the Pixels Come From (was: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode)

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
Much of this has been answered already through several emails, I  
thought I'd try to bring it all together and add a little more of the  
mathematics...

 ... So, if JPEG loses, or throws away, a lot of information, why  
 are the files
 when converted to TIFF (or PSD) so large?  Where does the extra  
 info come from? ...

In the camera...
The image is not created in JPEG format then converted to TIFF. The  
order of operations is
  RAW sensor data - 8bit RGB rendering - Compressed 8bit RGB rendering

The RGB rendering is what the camera uses to create the TIFF file. It  
is larger than the RAW file because the RAW file uses 12bits to  
describe each photosite state where the TIFF file uses an [r,g,b]  
triplet of three 8-bit bytes to describe each pixel, where the number  
of pixels is the same as the number of photosites. That's 24 bits vs  
12 bits to describe the same thing, so the uncompressed TIFF file has  
to be at least twice as large. There is additional overhead in the  
TIFF file's structure as well.

The JPEG rendering is the compressed 8bit RGB rendering. It's  
resulting smaller file size is a matter of compression coding,  
packing the [r,g,b] pixel array values into a more compact form of  
numbers that can be 'unpacked' back into a reasonably accurate  
rendering of the RGB image according to an algorithm.

Out of the camera...
Taking a RAW file and performing RAW conversion to an 8bit TIFF file  
does the same thing that doing this in the camera does. If you  
convert a RAW file to a 16bit TIFF file, each of the pixels is  
assigned an [r,g,b] value with 16bit values instead of 8bit values,  
which allows for more precision in manipulation ... the resulting  
data size is twice again as large as an 8bit TIFF file. Taking a JPEG  
file and converting it to a 8bit TIFF file simply reverses the JPEG  
packing back into the expanded, simple  8bit per channel [r,g,b]  
pixel description array.

Precison 8bit vs 16bit:
Say you look at a pixel value from an 8bit TIFF file and you get a  
triplet like [128, 128, 128]. That represents the amounts of R, G and  
B that are added together to produce the total intensity and color  
value of that pixel, on a scale of 0-255 possible values in each color.

If you were look at the same pixel in a 16bit TIFF file rendering of  
the 12bit RAW data, the relative values of the channel assignments  
would be the same, but you have 16x as many numbers available to  
describe the values in the original RAW file which is then scaled to  
a representation in a discrete numeric space 8x larger (0-4095 in the  
RAW data, 0-32767 in the 16bit RGB channel (the topmost bit is not  
used so it's actually 15 bits of data)). Only 4096 of the values in  
the 16bit space are actual photosite RAW values, they're fitted into  
the larger space because current computing machinery manages 16 bit  
numbers with greater efficiency than 12 bit numbers, in general,  
*and* because as you perform Real or Discrete valued operations on  
these numbers, there are more numbers to represent the results, thus  
greater precision and less likelihood of clipping or round off errors.

An illustrative example would be the 'digital' volume knob on many  
modern automobile radios. As you turn the knob, the display might  
display a range from 0 to 10, or it might display a range from 0 to  
100. The actual analog amplitude of the volume is the same, but it is  
represented from none to max in two different resolutions... with the  
0-10 representation you only get to set one of ten steps, with the  
0-100 representation, you can set a lot more precisely the exact  
volume you want, with 10x the steps between values.

 ... Further, when viewing a high quality JPEG in Photoshop, it  
 shows the file
 size in the status bar to be about the same as the TIFF TIFF (or  
 PSD) file
 made from that JPEG. ...
 And why does Photoshop show the smaller JPEG file to be the size of
 the larger TIFF or PSD file.

Photoshop's description of image size is a description of the size of  
the uncompresed, actual pixel value array. If the array is packed in  
a JPEG or 'compressed LZW' TIFF file, it unpacks the values into an  
uncompressed array before reporting the size, which means that a PSD,  
TIFF or JPEG image with the same number of pixels and the same bit  
depth will show as the same size.

Godfrey


On Jun 15, 2006, at 6:30 PM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
 ...Taking an image shot in highest quality JPEG on the DS results  
 in a file
 size of 1,900kb.  Doing absolutely nothing to it but converting to  
 a TIFF
 results in a file size of 17,600kb.  Converting that file to 16-bit  
 doubles
 the size.  Now, making the same shot using RAW results in a file  
 size of
 about 10,000kb, and converting it to TIFF results in a file size of
 approximately 35,000kb.

 I've noticed the same behavior with my little Sony.  It will  
 produce a TIFF
 and a JPEG simultaneously, and when the JPEG is converted to a TIFF  
 

Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
Tom Reese wrote:

Hey all,

Our photo club currently has competitions in slides and prints. We're going to 
combine projected digital images and slides in future contests in order to 
provide maximum opportunity for participation. Members won't have to make 
prints to enter contests 
and they'll save a lot of aggravation and expense.

My question from other club members is:

are you having contests with projected images? What resolution do you use for 
the images? Have you had any problems?

At the Grandfather Mountain photo contest we used a projection monitor
with 1200 x 1600 resolution, IIRC. We kept all the images at the
resolution at which they were supplied to us, generally the camera's
full resolution. We used IrfanView to display everything for the
awards presentation and let IrfanView do the resizing for display.
Had no problems whatsoever. In fact, we were kind of surprised at how
smoothly everything went.
 
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Re: My kludge is broken (further question)

2006-06-16 Thread P. J. Alling
DamnifIknow.  Pentax gives a certan amount of control over both sleep 
times so you can match them up.  I haven't bothered, I just got used to 
it.  Most, (all actually) of the cameras I've owned up until the *ist D 
didn't need different sleep times since the the sensor, (film), didn't 
need to sleep to save power.

mike wilson wrote:

From: P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED]



  

Now that you've described it fully, yes it seems normal, that's exactly 
how my DS works.  It half sleeps and has to be awakened with a kiss to 
it shutter button before it will respond to the AE lock button.



Thanks.  I missed some posts from last night so this will be a catchall 
answer.  Every camera I have owned up to now has
had either just a meter or had other electronics that sleep
at the same time as the meter.  When I saw the LCD still 
activated on the DL2, I assumed that the beast was awake
completely.  Hence my concern that metering apparently 
didn't work on pressing the AE-L button.  Being four-eyed,
I cannot see the whole of the information in the viewfinder
and, even when looking for it, often find it hard to discern 
against background illumination.

Now; why should the camera have separate alive times for 
the meter and everything else?  Just a power saver?

m

  

mike wilson wrote:



Brand new and freshly recharged.  Might not be up to full capacity.

It's very consistent now.  Turn off and on; no stopdown.  Half press 
shutter; works.  Between 5 and 10 seconds later; stopped working.  Half 
press; back again.

Does everyone else's kludge work as soon as the camera is turned on?  Does 
it stop before the camera sleeps?


 

  

From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2006/06/15 Thu AM 10:17:02 GMT
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: My kludge is broken

Your batteries are bad. Buy some lithiums and be done with it.
Paul
On Jun 15, 2006, at 4:59 AM, mike wilson wrote:

   



I think

ist DL2.  I had the batteries out for some time, charging.  When I 
mounted a plain vanilla K lens, the AE-L button would not stop it down 
for a reading.  Tried a couple of different ones, made sure it was in 
manual; no effect.

Went into the menu and checked that aperture ring use was allowed; 
tick.  It's the default, anyway.

Came out of the menu and it worked.

Switch it off and on; doesn't work.  Touch the shutter button; works.  
Leave it five seconds; doesn't work, even though the display is still 
working.

Now, I'm nervous.

m
  




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Re: Bye, Bye Bill Gates

2006-06-16 Thread P. J. Alling
He can outbid the Rockefellers for it, (who have much more money than 
the Bushes or the Kennedys), but some people couldn't be elected 
President even if they had all the money in the world.

mike wilson wrote:

From: Tom C [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2006/06/15 Thu PM 11:20:31 GMT
To: pdml@pdml.net
Subject: RE: Bye, Bye Bill Gates

Bill Gates for President? ;-)



He can certainly outbid the Bushes for it.


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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
Mark Roberts wrote:

Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

No need for a third party utility.

* The Finder includes a Secure Erase feature for items you put in  
the trash. See the menu command Finder - Secure Empty Trash.

* If you need to erase an entire disk drive volume, the Disk Utility  
application includes secure erasure of disk volumes.

Which versions of the OS have these features? One of the Macs I'm
dealing with is a G3 Powerbook. Don't know which version it's running
yet, but it's at least 5 years old. maybe older.

BTW, if anyone's interested in a G3 Powerbook, cheap (what other kind
is there these days?g), drop me a note.
 
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412-687-2835

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Re: Hmm, have a look at this

2006-06-16 Thread P. J. Alling
Have you looked at those pictures! ;-)

Paul Stenquist wrote:

It doesn't defame Wasti. As long as attribution is made, It's probably 
fair game. It's like quoting an author.
Paul
On Jun 16, 2006, at 1:36 AM, P. J. Alling wrote:

  

I don't know, but Mark gave copyright credit for the image on his web
page to Frederick Wasti. it would seem that the credit for the images 
on
the ebay advert. were also attributed to Mr. Wasti.  Based on the
quality I believe he, (Mr. Wasti), has cause for a defamation action.

Paul Stenquist wrote:



Since the charts are originally from a magazine, they're not Mark's
property. If anyone's copyright is violated, it's the original
publisher.
Paul
On Jun 15, 2006, at 7:36 PM, Don Sanderson wrote:



  

Mark, I've seen your page quoted several times on eekBay.
I've also had my photos used in other auctions.
I've reported all instances of copy theft (yours and mine) to
the powers that be.
Sometimes helps, sometimes not.
Actually, I feel rather sorry for poor As*s that can't get thru
life by the rules without cheating.  ;-(

Don

On 6/15/06, Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




eBay auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItemitem=762505ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/
762505_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
Looks a lot like this:
http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm

(Already reported to eBay)

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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread mike wilson

 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Tom Reese)
 Date: 2006/06/16 Fri PM 01:46:48 GMT
 To: pdml@pdml.net (Pentax List)
 Subject: camera club question re: projected image contests
 
 Hey all,
 
 Our photo club currently has competitions in slides and prints. We're going 
 to combine projected digital images and slides in future contests in order to 
 provide maximum opportunity for participation. Members won't have to make 
 prints to enter contests and they'll save a lot of aggravation and expense.
 
 My question from other club members is:
 
 are you having contests with projected images? What resolution do you use for 
 the images? Have you had any problems?
 
 thanks for your help.
 

Are you going to make all the projected images digital by 
scanning slides?  It's a bit of an uneven playing field, 
otherwise.


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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread Tom Reese
  Subject: camera club question re: projected image contests
  
  Hey all,
  
  Our photo club currently has competitions in slides and prints. We're going 
  to 
 combine projected digital images and slides in future contests in order to 
 provide maximum opportunity for participation. Members won't have to make 
 prints 
 to enter contests and they'll save a lot of aggravation and expense.
  
  My question from other club members is:
  
  are you having contests with projected images? What resolution do you use 
  for 
 the images? Have you had any problems?
  
  thanks for your help.
  
 
 Are you going to make all the projected images digital by 
 scanning slides?  It's a bit of an uneven playing field, 
 otherwise.

NO! There's no way in hell I'm going to wrestle with that goddamned scanner and 
software. That's why I shoot slides in the first place. I don't want to deal 
with any of that.

Why do you think the playing field will be uneven? In which way?

I fully expect to be at a competitive disadvantage because my slides are what 
they are and the digital images can be altered. The digitally projected images 
at the GFM presentations didn't seem to suffer much compated to the slides that 
were shown.

Tom Reese


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Re: Bye, Bye Bill Gates

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
P. J. Alling wrote:

He can outbid the Rockefellers for it, (who have much more money than 
the Bushes or the Kennedys), but some people couldn't be elected 
President even if they had all the money in the world.

If you have enough money, you don't *need* to be elected to office to
get your way.
 
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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

On Jun 16, 2006, at 7:24 AM, Mark Roberts wrote:

 Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 No need for a third party utility.

 * The Finder includes a Secure Erase feature for items you put in
 the trash. See the menu command Finder - Secure Empty Trash.

 * If you need to erase an entire disk drive volume, the Disk Utility
 application includes secure erasure of disk volumes.

 Which versions of the OS have these features? One of the Macs I'm
 dealing with is a G3 Powerbook. Don't know which version it's running
 yet, but it's at least 5 years old. maybe older.

All Mac OS X systems since v10.1 release in 2001.

PowerBook G3 represents a range of five models made from late 1997 to  
2002:

1997-98: PowerBook G3 Hooper - oldest, squared off case design with  
SCSI and serial ports
1998-1999: PowerBook G3 Wall Street - softer 'pillow' case design  
with SCSI and serial ports
1999: PowerBook G3 Lombard - thinner, pillow case design with USB  
and SCSI ports
2000-2001: PowerBook G3 Pismo with dual FireWire and USB ports

Hoopers and Wall Streets could run Mac OS X up to 10.1 but only to a  
limited extent, due to lack of RAM and video options. Lombards were  
made for only a short time, they can run 10.3 but had limited video  
cards so some things do not run well or weren't fully supported.  
Pismos can run all versions of Mac OS X up to the current 10.4  
generation.

If you need to scrub an older PowerBook drive that is not configured  
with Mac OS X:

- For a Pismo, it's very easy. Set the PowerBook into FireWire Target  
Mode and connect it to any other Mac OS X system via a FireWire  
cable. Then run Disk Utility and use one of the Secure Erase options.  
Or obtain a Mac OS X installation CD or DVD, boot the system with it  
(with the CD or DVD in the optical drive, power up the system with  
the 'C' key held down, this will automatically search for a bootable  
volume in the optical drive first). You can then run the Disk Utility  
from the Installer's Tools menu and use a secure erase option on the  
drive.

- For older PowerBooks, you'll need an installation CD for Mac OS X  
v10.1 specifically to boot the systems from the optical drive and  
perform a secure erase of the hard drive. If you don't have that, you  
can use a FireWire to SCSI adapter cable for a more modern system and  
a SCSI System Connector cable for the old PowerBook. The latter cable  
is inserted into the SCSI port, and connected to the adapter and the  
modern system and then the old PB system is started. This starts the  
PowerBook up as a SCSI Target Drive, which Disk Utility can then see  
and run a secure erase.

Without the right pieces on these older machines, doing a good secure  
erase will require finding a bootable CD or SCSI drive with Mac OS 9  
and a secure erase utility written for the older operating system.  
The age and value of such an old system means that it is probably  
much less trouble to extract the drive and physically destroy it  
rather than waste time finding all the bits to do a secure erase.

PowerBook G3 Pismo system are still quite viable ... I fitted mine  
with 768M RAM and a 60G fast drive in 2004 and used it until two  
months ago running Mac OS X v10.4.x, when I bought my PowerBook G4  
1.67Ghz system. I've since sold the PBG3 to a friend who is  
continuing to use it for his daily internet and accounting work. :-)

Godfrey

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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
Just fired it up. It's running OS 8.1
 
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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Bob Shell

On Jun 16, 2006, at 10:24 AM, Mark Roberts wrote:

 Which versions of the OS have these features? One of the Macs I'm
 dealing with is a G3 Powerbook. Don't know which version it's running
 yet, but it's at least 5 years old. maybe older.

For previous OS versions, you can use BURN.  I used it prior to  
switching to OS 10.4, and it does a great job.  You can find info here:

http://www.thenextwave.com/burnHP.html

Bob

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PESO- Green Goose

2006-06-16 Thread pnstenquist
I have a copper goose weather vane in my perennial garden. Don't know why. I 
guess I just sort of like the way it looks. I shot it last weekend with the 
A400/5.6 and the *istD on a tripod. I used the Sigma 500 Super in high-speed 
synch mode with the Kirk Xtender. The exposure was f5.6 @ 1/350th, ISO 400. I 
like the 400's bokeh. I processed this on my crappy work computer and  haven't 
checked it at home, so it may be off a tad. But I'm bored and don't feel like 
working.
Paul
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4570067size=lg

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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread George Sinos
I thought I'd chime in on this one.

I just joined a local club in January.

Evidently, until this year they used a digital projector, a 35mm slide
projector and a third projector for two-and-a-quarter square format
slides.  This is was in addition to prints.

This year the fellow that runs the projector decided that he would
scan the 35mm slides and just bring the digital projector.  However,
the 35mm slides and digital entries were judged separately.  The 2-1/4
entries were also scanned and judged separately but there were only
enough entries to show them on two nights.

At the end of this year they made some changes.  The 2-1/4 format was
dropped for lack of entries.  The 35mm and digital stuff will be
judged together but there are categories for photoshopped and
non-photoshopped stuff.

No one seems to mind.  The projector format is 1024x768 and it seems
to be just fine.

Prints will continue to be judged separately, but the numbers are dwindling.

At the recent end-of-year banquet they put on a multi-media show with
everything being projected in it's native format.  Frankly, the
digital projector put the regular slide projectors to shame.

I'm in my mid-fifties and seem to be one of the younger members of the
group.  Much as the members of this list have varying opinions, the
club members have diverse opinions on digital.  There are several
die-hard film fans.  There seems to be room for everyone's opinons.

The club just bought a laptop computer to drive the projector so they
don't have to depend on members volunteering equipment.

See later, gs
http://georgesphotos.net

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Lensebabies

2006-06-16 Thread Roman
Anyone has photos made with lensebabies? Seems forgotten, yet 
rediscovered consept. Some nice examples would be nice to decide whether 
invest some money and play with these toys.

Thank you,
Roman.

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Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread Shel Belinkoff
Having used a friends DA 16-45 for almost a week now, I'm beginning to
enjoy the convenience of using a zoom lens.  I'm still of mixed feelings
about the 16-45, and before making any decision about buying it or another
zoom I've decided to wait and see what the forthcoming 16-50/2.8 is like
and see about trying other zoom lenses.

Some of the issues that Godders has with the 16-45, namely its size and the
way it extends at the short end, don't bother me too much, although I can
certainly see his point, and would probably like the lens a little more if
it didn't extent so much, or at all.  My biggest issue is sharpness and the
ability of the lens to render fine detail in certain situations.  It seems
like a fine walking around lens, but thus far casual comparisons with,
for example, the A50/1.4 and a couple of other primes, seem to indicate
that the 16-45 is not the best for certain subjects and certainly certain
situations.  I don't like the way the lens flares in some lighting
conditions.

So, as I'd like to try other zooms before making a final decision, perhaps
you can suggest your favorite zoom, and why you like it.  This might help
me decide which zoom to seek out and try next.

Thanks for any help and suggestions.


Shel




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Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread pnstenquist
I'd have to say that my favorite zoom is the DA 12-24/4. It doesn't extend to 
any great degree at either end. It's extremely sharp, even in the corners, and 
provides a true wide for the D. I like the DA 16-45 as well. It's a very handy 
range.I've actually found it to be very flare resistant. I've even shot 
directly into the sun with it. I use both it and the FA 50/1.4 extensively. Of 
course, the real benefit of the FA is its speed, but in terms of resolution, 
the DA 16-45 seems to be its equal at 5.6 through 11. I've used it for 
commercial work on several occasions, and wouldn't hesitate to use it for any 
project.
Paul
 -- Original message --
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Having used a friends DA 16-45 for almost a week now, I'm beginning to
 enjoy the convenience of using a zoom lens.  I'm still of mixed feelings
 about the 16-45, and before making any decision about buying it or another
 zoom I've decided to wait and see what the forthcoming 16-50/2.8 is like
 and see about trying other zoom lenses.
 
 Some of the issues that Godders has with the 16-45, namely its size and the
 way it extends at the short end, don't bother me too much, although I can
 certainly see his point, and would probably like the lens a little more if
 it didn't extent so much, or at all.  My biggest issue is sharpness and the
 ability of the lens to render fine detail in certain situations.  It seems
 like a fine walking around lens, but thus far casual comparisons with,
 for example, the A50/1.4 and a couple of other primes, seem to indicate
 that the 16-45 is not the best for certain subjects and certainly certain
 situations.  I don't like the way the lens flares in some lighting
 conditions.
 
 So, as I'd like to try other zooms before making a final decision, perhaps
 you can suggest your favorite zoom, and why you like it.  This might help
 me decide which zoom to seek out and try next.
 
 Thanks for any help and suggestions.
 
 
 Shel
 
 
 
 
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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Mark Roberts
Bob Shell wrote:


On Jun 16, 2006, at 10:24 AM, Mark Roberts wrote:

 Which versions of the OS have these features? One of the Macs I'm
 dealing with is a G3 Powerbook. Don't know which version it's running
 yet, but it's at least 5 years old. maybe older.

For previous OS versions, you can use BURN.  I used it prior to  
switching to OS 10.4, and it does a great job.  You can find info here:

http://www.thenextwave.com/burnHP.html

Looks like just what I need but I get an Unable to set up secure
anonymous FTP message when I click their download link. Tried Mac and
Windows, couple of different browsers on each.
 
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412-687-2835

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Re: Bye, Bye Bill Gates

2006-06-16 Thread P. J. Alling
No, but you don't get your way much if you act arrogantly in front of 
powerful people no matter how much money you have.  Some of those people 
actually do have long memories, Bill has learned that, (I think).

Mark Roberts wrote:

P. J. Alling wrote:

  

He can outbid the Rockefellers for it, (who have much more money than 
the Bushes or the Kennedys), but some people couldn't be elected 
President even if they had all the money in the world.



If you have enough money, you don't *need* to be elected to office to
get your way.
 
  



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Run in circles, (scream and shout).


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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Sylwester Pietrzyk
On 16.06.2006, at 16:24 , Mark Roberts wrote:

 Which versions of the OS have these features? One of the Macs I'm
 dealing with is a G3 Powerbook. Don't know which version it's running
 yet, but it's at least 5 years old. maybe older.
So it can have Mac OS 9.x installed.  If you have original OS 9  
installation CD that came with Powerbook, then you can start PB using  
this CD (keep C key pressed after startup tone, release it when you  
see smiling Mac icon). When system has already loaded from CD - use  
Drive setup application that should be in Application(Mac OS 9)/ 
Utilities/Drive setup folder and check zero all data checkbox in  
Initialisation options. Then initialise disk (zeros will be written  
all over the disk - it should be secure enough) and install fresh  
system.

Cheers,
Sylwek



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RE: Lensebabies

2006-06-16 Thread Shel Belinkoff
I think Juan Buhler has done some work with lensbabies.  Do a google search
to bring up his various sites.

Shel



 [Original Message]
 From: Roman 

 Anyone has photos made with lensebabies? Seems forgotten, yet 
 rediscovered consept. Some nice examples would be nice to decide whether 
 invest some money and play with these toys.



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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Jun 16, 2006, at 9:16 AM, Sylwester Pietrzyk wrote:

 So it can have Mac OS 9.x installed.  If you have original OS 9
 installation CD that came with Powerbook, then you can start PB using
 this CD (keep C key pressed after startup tone, release it when you
 see smiling Mac icon). When system has already loaded from CD - use
 Drive setup application that should be in Application(Mac OS 9)/
 Utilities/Drive setup folder and check zero all data checkbox in
 Initialisation options. Then initialise disk (zeros will be written
 all over the disk - it should be secure enough) and install fresh
 system.

Wow, ancient history! Thanks for reminding me Sylwester

Same thing for Mac OS 8 and prior, back to the introduction of System  
7 in 1991. If you don't have a Mac OS 8 or Mac OS 9 system  
installation CD, I am pretty sure I have a couple here and can send  
you one.

Godfrey

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Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread Joseph Tainter
Shel, we don't know yet how the DA 16-50 F2.8 will perform. To make such 
a lens at F2.8, though, probably involves compromises that F4 doesn't, 
or at least more compromise than an F4 lens. For comparative purposes, 
the only post I have seen (on dpreview some months ago) comparing the 
FA* 300 F4.5 to the FA* 300 F2.8, noted that the 300 F4.5 seemed a bit 
sharper.

I'll be surprised if the 16-50 renders better images than the 16-45. Of 
course, I could very well be wrong. Then there are the size and weight 
trade-offs, which may be enough to put me off from either of the F2.8 
zooms that are forthcoming.

In terms of sharpness and ability to resolve detail (my main criteria), 
the DA 16-45 seems to resolve on par with my best zoom lenses: the FA 
20-35 F4, the Tokina AT-X AF 28-80 F2.8, and the Sigma EX 70-200 F2.8. 
By on par I mean that it strikes me as being in the same class as, for 
example, the FA 20-35. In my tests it is just slightly less sharp than 
the 20-35, but you have to go to Actual Pixels to detect it.

If the focal length range of the 16-45 is right for you, then the only 
real alternative will probably be the DA 16-50 F2.8. I believe Sigma may 
have a couple of normal digital zooms that do F2.8, but I would stay 
away from them.

So when might you be able to borrow a DA 16-50 F2.8 for some testing? 
When you do, please let us know the results.

Joe

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Re: PESO - My Lonely Ass Redux

2006-06-16 Thread Tom C
Thanks for all the comments on My Lonely Ass...

I very infrequently manipulate images, but I think a silohouette makes it 
rather easy.  It was a fun diversion.


Tom C.






From: Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: PESO - My Lonely Ass Redux
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 00:23:12 -0400

The all work for me. Which one depends on the mood one's in.

Kenneth Waller

- Original Message -
From: Tom C [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: PESO - My Lonely Ass Redux


 I don't expect anyone to like these.  I can't say I do, though I find 
them
  interesting and odd how much color changes the mood.
 
  They are manipulations done while I was goofing with Harry's Filters.
 
  Here are some non-photographs:
 
 
 
  My Lonely Ass in Hell
 
  http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4567637
 
 
  My Lonely Ass Blue Moon
 
  http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4567644
 
 
  and the original unmanipulated
 
  My Lonely Ass
 
  http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4147790
 
 
 
  Tom C.
 
 
 
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Today's Question No. 1: LED Lights

2006-06-16 Thread Joseph Tainter
I am continuing my search for a light source to go with my FA* 200 F4 
Macro, and also to photograph close-in birds with other telephoto 
lenses. Don Williams' post on LED macros got me to doing some research.

Does anyone have experience with, or know anything about, this gadget?

http://tinyurl.com/nft3r

It is a continuous LED light source, purportedly good to about 20 feet. 
I am wondering:

--Will a continuous light like this scare off birds and bees?

--Will it give me more light at, say, 6 feet, than normal daylight would?

Thanks,

Joe

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Today's Question No. 2: Image Editing

2006-06-16 Thread Joseph Tainter
Using PS CS2, can anyone instruct me how to select a square of a certain 
number of pixels on each side?

Thanks,

Joe

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24-90 flare [Was: Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens]

2006-06-16 Thread Kostas Kavoussanakis
On Fri, 16 Jun 2006, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 situations.  I don't like the way the lens flares in some lighting
 conditions.

Very interesting. Can you share an example?

Kostas

p.s.: You are talking digital, so, being film-only, I won't contribute 
to the actual discussion, although I am a zoom-lens user.

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Re: Mac software question

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
NextWave Software might be defunct.
The download link points to a bad FTP address.

Godfrey

On Jun 16, 2006, at 8:35 AM, Bob Shell wrote:


 On Jun 16, 2006, at 10:24 AM, Mark Roberts wrote:

 Which versions of the OS have these features? One of the Macs I'm
 dealing with is a G3 Powerbook. Don't know which version it's running
 yet, but it's at least 5 years old. maybe older.

 For previous OS versions, you can use BURN.  I used it prior to
 switching to OS 10.4, and it does a great job.  You can find info  
 here:

 http://www.thenextwave.com/burnHP.html

 Bob

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RE: Today's Question No. 2: Image Editing

2006-06-16 Thread Shel Belinkoff
Hi,

You can use the marquee tool and select fixed size in the style options,
then select whatever size you want. You can also use the crop tool and
select the dimensions you want.  In both instances you can then adjust the
final output by using the arrow keys to move the selection around the
image, if that's needed.

Shel



 [Original Message]
 From: Joseph Tainter 

 Using PS CS2, can anyone instruct me how to select a square of a certain 
 number of pixels on each side?



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Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
I haven't used the DA12-24/4, but it sounds similar physically to the  
FA20-35. I think the latter is smaller and lighter. You already know  
it's my favorite zoom lens, nearly the only one I use at all. I rate  
it right up there with a lot of primes.

It is better wide open than the DA16-45, in my opinion, and produces  
nicer OOF results at corresponding focal lengths, particularly at the  
corners and edges of the field of view, with remarkably good  
rectilinear correction for a zoom.

The step between the FA20-35 and the DA14, in terms of maximum field  
of view, is about 20 diagonal degrees (91.7 degrees for the 14mm,  
71.6-44.8 degrees for the 20-35mm). This puts the 20-35 into a  
perfect wide to normal range for my uses.

Godfrey


On Jun 16, 2006, at 9:03 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'd have to say that my favorite zoom is the DA 12-24/4. It doesn't  
 extend to any great degree at either end. It's extremely sharp,  
 even in the corners, and provides a true wide for the D. I like the  
 DA 16-45 as well. It's a very handy range.I've actually found it to  
 be very flare resistant. I've even shot directly into the sun with  
 it. I use both it and the FA 50/1.4 extensively. Of course, the  
 real benefit of the FA is its speed, but in terms of resolution,  
 the DA 16-45 seems to be its equal at 5.6 through 11. I've used it  
 for commercial work on several occasions, and wouldn't hesitate to  
 use it for any project.
 Paul
  -- Original message --
 From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Having used a friends DA 16-45 for almost a week now, I'm  
 beginning to
 enjoy the convenience of using a zoom lens.  I'm still of mixed  
 feelings
 about the 16-45, and before making any decision about buying it or  
 another
 zoom I've decided to wait and see what the forthcoming 16-50/2.8  
 is like
 and see about trying other zoom lenses.

 Some of the issues that Godders has with the 16-45, namely its  
 size and the
 way it extends at the short end, don't bother me too much,  
 although I can
 certainly see his point, and would probably like the lens a little  
 more if
 it didn't extent so much, or at all.  My biggest issue is  
 sharpness and the
 ability of the lens to render fine detail in certain situations.   
 It seems
 like a fine walking around lens, but thus far casual comparisons  
 with,
 for example, the A50/1.4 and a couple of other primes, seem to  
 indicate
 that the 16-45 is not the best for certain subjects and certainly  
 certain
 situations.  I don't like the way the lens flares in some lighting
 conditions.

 So, as I'd like to try other zooms before making a final decision,  
 perhaps
 you can suggest your favorite zoom, and why you like it.  This  
 might help
 me decide which zoom to seek out and try next.


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RE: 24-90 flare [Was: Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens]

2006-06-16 Thread Shel Belinkoff
http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/bruceflare.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/awfulflare.jpg

Shel



 [Original Message]
 From: Kostas Kavoussanakis 

 On Fri, 16 Jun 2006, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

  situations.  I don't like the way the lens flares in some lighting
  conditions.

 Very interesting. Can you share an example?



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Re: PESO- Green Goose

2006-06-16 Thread Bruce Dayton
Paul,

It is very well executed.  I agree the bokeh is nice on that lens.  A
shot that just doesn't 'speak' to me, however, or maybe just my mood.

-- 
Bruce


Friday, June 16, 2006, 8:30:50 AM, you wrote:

pcn I have a copper goose weather vane in my perennial garden.
pcn Don't know why. I guess I just sort of like the way it looks. I
pcn shot it last weekend with the A400/5.6 and the *istD on a tripod.
pcn I used the Sigma 500 Super in high-speed synch mode with the Kirk
pcn Xtender. The exposure was f5.6 @ 1/350th, ISO 400. I like the
pcn 400's bokeh. I processed this on my crappy work computer and 
pcn haven't checked it at home, so it may be off a tad. But I'm bored
pcn and don't feel like working.
pcn Paul
pcn http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4570067size=lg




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Re: Today's Question No. 2: Image Editing

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
Fastest way:
- Choose the selection tool.
- in the control bar, set the drop down Style menu to fixed size
- Input the size of the selection you want in pixels
- click on your image ... the selection will appear
- drag it around until it includes what you want.

Godfrey

On Jun 16, 2006, at 9:42 AM, Joseph Tainter wrote:

 Using PS CS2, can anyone instruct me how to select a square of a  
 certain
 number of pixels on each side?


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Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread Bruce Dayton
Hello Shel,

You didn't indicate what basic range you are interested in.  Are you
looking for an ultrawide-wide, wide-short tele, short tele-long tele,
etc.


-- 
Best regards,
Bruce


Friday, June 16, 2006, 8:50:47 AM, you wrote:

SB Having used a friends DA 16-45 for almost a week now, I'm beginning to
SB enjoy the convenience of using a zoom lens.  I'm still of mixed feelings
SB about the 16-45, and before making any decision about buying it or another
SB zoom I've decided to wait and see what the forthcoming 16-50/2.8 is like
SB and see about trying other zoom lenses.

SB Some of the issues that Godders has with the 16-45, namely its size and the
SB way it extends at the short end, don't bother me too much, although I can
SB certainly see his point, and would probably like the lens a little more if
SB it didn't extent so much, or at all.  My biggest issue is sharpness and the
SB ability of the lens to render fine detail in certain situations.  It seems
SB like a fine walking around lens, but thus far casual comparisons with,
SB for example, the A50/1.4 and a couple of other primes, seem to indicate
SB that the 16-45 is not the best for certain subjects and certainly certain
SB situations.  I don't like the way the lens flares in some lighting
SB conditions.

SB So, as I'd like to try other zooms before making a final decision, perhaps
SB you can suggest your favorite zoom, and why you like it.  This might help
SB me decide which zoom to seek out and try next.

SB Thanks for any help and suggestions.


SB Shel







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RE: 24-90 flare [Was: Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens]

2006-06-16 Thread Kostas Kavoussanakis
On Fri, 16 Jun 2006, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 [Original Message]
 From: Kostas Kavoussanakis

 On Fri, 16 Jun 2006, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 situations.  I don't like the way the lens flares in some lighting
 conditions.

 Very interesting. Can you share an example?

 http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/bruceflare.jpg

If we are talking about the highlights on the left, I would be OK. If 
we are talking about the bleed on the window, I am slightly concerned 
about the fringe.

 http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/awfulflare.jpg

Um, I have never seen anything like that with a Pentax lens. Is there 
a filter or another glass surface involved?

Thanks a lot Shel!

Kostas

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Re: Lensebabies

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
I have a Lensbaby in Canon EOS mount and posted a bunch of photos  
made with it in Fall of 2004.

Go to my Others 2004 gallery, index 4:
   http://homepage.mac.com/ramarren/photo/Others4/index4.htm

Images from #58 (LB21_2498.jpg on the third row) to about #74 are  
all Lensbaby.

I apologize in advance for the funky pages. Some day I'll get around  
to cleaning them up.

Godfrey

On Jun 16, 2006, at 8:50 AM, Roman wrote:

 Anyone has photos made with lensebabies? Seems forgotten, yet
 rediscovered consept. Some nice examples would be nice to decide  
 whether
 invest some money and play with these toys.


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Re: 24-90 flare [Was: Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens]

2006-06-16 Thread Bruce Dayton
Hello Shel,

I'm curious if you had a filter on the lens for the awful flare
version.  I know the shot you took of me had a filter on it albeit an
SMC filter.

I have never seen flare like the awful on from my 16-45 - but if I
think flare could be an issue, I always take of the filter.  Just
curious.  I may have to go out and see if I can get mine to flare that
badly.

-- 
Bruce


Friday, June 16, 2006, 9:54:13 AM, you wrote:

SB http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/bruceflare.jpg
SB http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/awfulflare.jpg

SB Shel



 [Original Message]
 From: Kostas Kavoussanakis 

 On Fri, 16 Jun 2006, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

  situations.  I don't like the way the lens flares in some lighting
  conditions.

 Very interesting. Can you share an example?






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24-90 flare [Was: Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens]

2006-06-16 Thread Joseph Tainter
http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/bruceflare.jpg

Shel

-
And purple fringing.

Joe

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Re: Shooting Digi in JPEG Mode

2006-06-16 Thread John Francis
On Fri, Jun 16, 2006 at 09:43:00AM -0400, Doug Franklin wrote:
 keith_w wrote:
 
  Re TIFF images, my manual says the tiff images are non-compressed.
  That's just a gratuitous comment, as I don't know that much about tiff 
  images, 
  except that they are way too large! grin
 
 The manual is correct for your camera, or maybe even all cameras, but 
 that's not a true statement about TIFF in general.  The image data 
 stored inside a TIFF format file can be uncompressed or compressed, 
 depending on the settings used to save the TIFF file.  In fact, a TIFF 
 file can even contain an image compressed in JPEG format (or several 
 other compression formats/methods).

That's one of the major complaints about TIFF - there are so many little
extra little features, etc., that it's just about impossible to write
software that can read an arbitrary TIFF-compliant file.   Fortunately
there's a defined subset, baseline TIFF, that suffices for most users,
and anything that claims to support TIFF *must* handle everything that
baseline TIFF can contain (I don't belive that includes compression).


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Re: Lensebabies

2006-06-16 Thread Boris Liberman
Hi!

 Anyone has photos made with lensebabies? Seems forgotten, yet 
 rediscovered consept. Some nice examples would be nice to decide whether 
 invest some money and play with these toys.

Roman, I think you'd be better off if you simply made a monocle out of 
Helios 44K lens...

Boris

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Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread Boris Liberman
Hi!

 So, as I'd like to try other zooms before making a final decision, perhaps
 you can suggest your favorite zoom, and why you like it.  This might help
 me decide which zoom to seek out and try next.

I used to have 28-135 by Sigma, 70-222/3.5 by Soligor, 28-70/4 by 
Pentax, then 28-105 IF and F 70-210... Among those the F 70-210 is my 
favorite. It is sharp wide open even at 210 mm. It has very pleasant 
bokeh for a slow zoom. It is simply excellent optic for the price.

I realize you're not probably looking for a tele-zoom, but you did not 
specify that in the question ;-).

Boris

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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Jun 16, 2006, at 6:46 AM, Tom Reese wrote:

 Our photo club currently has competitions in slides and prints.  
 We're going to combine projected digital images and slides in  
 future contests in order to provide maximum opportunity for  
 participation. Members won't have to make prints to enter contests  
 and they'll save a lot of aggravation and expense.

 My question from other club members is:

 are you having contests with projected images? What resolution do  
 you use for the images? Have you had any problems?

At last year's Photo Alliance annual Slide Slam in San Francisco at  
the Academy Of Art auditorium, they took submissions for display as  
either slides or JPEG digital images, 10 photos per photographer. 400  
photographs were submitted and set up for viewing.  Each photograph  
was given 10 seconds viewing time on screen. About 260 of the  
submissions were digital images, the rest 35mm slides.

The digital images included scans from prints and transparencies  
(both 35mm and larger format) as well as digital capture images. The  
slides also included slide copies of prints and larger format  
transparencies. A decent digital projector and an Apple PowerBook  
running iPhoto was used to collate and present the digital image  
submissions, the Academy of Art's 'professional' slide projection  
system was used to display the 35mm slides.

 From a mechanical perspective, the professional quality slide  
projection system was a disaster. It took three hours to get all the  
slides into the trays. Half the slides were out of focus (causing the  
projector to stop and focus), or focus-shifted during projection, or  
mis-oriented in the projector. At least three/four jams per tray  
slowed down the projection sequences. On screen, the quality of the  
projected slides ranged from beyond horrible to OK, nothing was  
really superb. The slide copies of prints, particularly BW prints,  
were absolutely awful, with color prints coming up right behind that.  
Similarly for slide copies of large format transparencies, they ran  
from mostly awful to almost acceptable. It took almost twice the time  
to display 140 slides that it took to display 260 digital images due  
to this mess and the display quality was pretty mediocre at best.

The digital projection system took 30 minutes to setup total. It  
worked flawlessly, aside from one hiccup when iPhoto quit in the  
middle of a sequence. (The laptop used had too little RAM and a slow  
drive, which after 140 or so slides caused crash. The application was  
restarted and the rest of the sequences ran without further error.)  
The digital projector was a 1024x768 resolution, high-end-consumer  
model and did a good reasonable job of rendering. It did a better job  
on saturated color images and low-key BW work than on high-key BW  
or color work. Again, the scans were the most mediocre images in  
presentation, with the worst usually being scans of BW prints ...  
none of them were properly adjusted to display well in the digital  
medium.

Remember, I have no bias for or against film photography. It was  
clear from this experience that digital images in projection with a  
decent projector was a far more reliable display method and took a  
lot less time in setup and unexpected happenstances. Handling and  
projecting slides submitted on the spot for the event was an enormous  
time sink and produced a much poorer representation of the work.

---
Discussing this experience with various friends who attended with me,  
we decided that for our local photo group gatherings we would do the  
following:

- Only two categories for submission would be allowed, digital images  
in JPEG format and original prints.

- For prints, all submissions would be required to be submitted on A3  
Super (13x19) format sized paper or matte board. The submitter could  
choose to format the print to whatever size and proportion they  
wanted as long as the total size of the print fit onto an 13x19 board.

- For digital images, all images must be rendered to fit in a box a  
maximum of 768x768 pixels in size centered into a total field of  
1024x768 pixels, regardless of format proportions. All must be  
rendered to sRGB colorspace and the JPEG files must all include ICC  
tags.

Hope that helps.

Godfrey


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Re: 24-90 flare [Was: Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens]

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
Using a filter, any filter, on any lens, to me presents an  
opportunity for degraded image quality.

Godfrey

On Jun 16, 2006, at 10:06 AM, Bruce Dayton wrote:

 I'm curious if you had a filter on the lens for the awful flare
 version.  I know the shot you took of me had a filter on it albeit an
 SMC filter.

 I have never seen flare like the awful on from my 16-45 - but if I
 think flare could be an issue, I always take of the filter.  Just
 curious.  I may have to go out and see if I can get mine to flare that
 badly.

 SB http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/bruceflare.jpg
 SB http://home.earthlink.net/~morepix/awfulflare.jpg


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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread Patrice LACOUTURE (GMail)
Tom Reese a écrit :
 Hey all,

 Our photo club currently has competitions in slides and prints. We're going 
 to combine projected digital images and slides in future contests in order to 
 provide maximum opportunity for participation. Members won't have to make 
 prints to enter contests and they'll save a lot of aggravation and expense.

 My question from other club members is:

 are you having contests with projected images? What resolution do you use for 
 the images? Have you had any problems?

 thanks for your help.

 Tom Reese

   
Hi Tom,

My club organizes every year quite a big contest (as far as a few 
thousands candidate photos is considered big), and seriously considered 
digital projection along with slides.
We discussed with other clubs and decided that we would not venture into 
this yet, mainly for manpower reasons (reception, sorting etc...).

However, we've often projected digital in various other occasions.

What we learned:
The quality is certainly behind slide projection, in resolution, and 
specially in color accuracy and stability (compared to a reasonably good 
slide projector typically available in a club). Maybe it's because the 
digital projectors we used were bad, but this proved noticeable with 
various recent models. Regarding color rendition, we did not have the 
hardware to calibrate the projected image, though.

The photos are not on the same playing ground not only depending on the 
support (digi vs. film), but also depending on the image orientation. 
While a slide can be projected vertically and horizontally with equal 
quality, the digital imager is a horizontal rectangle. Therefore, with a 
1600x1200 imager, horizontal images will be 1600x1066, while vertical 
images will be only 1200*800 (2/3 images like 24x36 and APS-C). The 
projected vertical image will be much smaller, with the same dot size, 
and will lose more detail.

I can see only two workaround to this:
 - configure the projection software or pre-process the images so the 
projection area is square (in this case 1200x1200). Of course this means 
lowering the quality of horizontal images to the same level as vertical 
images.
 - wait until manufacturers make square image projectors just for the 
photo clubs :-)

Projecting the original files and let the projection software do the 
resizing and adding black borders ran smoothly for us. One would expect 
that if the authors knew (or guessed) the projector's resolution, they 
would have the chance to adapt their files to it, especially sharpening 
and the interpolation method if one is preferred. Interpolators used in 
projection software do not always give identical results.

Enjoy your club activity (and the pictures) and take care.

Patrice

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Re: Lensebabies

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

On Jun 16, 2006, at 11:12 AM, Boris Liberman wrote:

 Anyone has photos made with lensebabies? Seems forgotten, yet
 rediscovered consept. Some nice examples would be nice to decide  
 whether
 invest some money and play with these toys.

 Roman, I think you'd be better off if you simply made a monocle out of
 Helios 44K lens...

The Lensbaby's charm isn't the fact of what lens it is, it's the fact  
that the lens is mounted on a manually manipulated bellows that  
allows twisting and turning effects to steer the focus and blur  
effects around in a variety of ways.

Godfrey

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Advice on shooting Kodak UC in LX

2006-06-16 Thread John Bailey
I bought my first rolls of Kodak UC to use in my LX.
Did need to shoot this at the rated ISO?  It's been a
long time since I've had 36 ex film in the camera.

John

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Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread Larry Levy
For years it was the SMC FA 28-105mm f/4.5-5.6. When I started to use my D, 
I found myself using the SMC FA 20-35 f/4 with ever more frequency.

Larry in Dallas 


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Re: Lensebabies

2006-06-16 Thread Boris Liberman
Hi!

 Anyone has photos made with lensebabies? Seems forgotten, yet
 rediscovered consept. Some nice examples would be nice to decide  
 whether
 invest some money and play with these toys.
 Roman, I think you'd be better off if you simply made a monocle out of
 Helios 44K lens...
 
 The Lensbaby's charm isn't the fact of what lens it is, it's the fact  
 that the lens is mounted on a manually manipulated bellows that  
 allows twisting and turning effects to steer the focus and blur  
 effects around in a variety of ways.

Ah! I did not know that... Well, I am not *that* much into fun lenses...

Boris

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Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread David Savage
On 6/16/06, Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 So, as I'd like to try other zooms before making a final decision, perhaps
 you can suggest your favorite zoom, and why you like it.  This might help
 me decide which zoom to seek out and try next.

 Thanks for any help and suggestions.


 Shel

My first ever Pentax zoom lens was the FA 28-105mm f4.5-5.6 Powerzoom
kit lens I got with my first Pentax camera (Z-20).

It was my only lens for many years and served me well in many
different shooting situations, from my feeble attempts at street
photography through to landscape, studio  snapshots.

In the way of zooms I have since acquired:

DA 16-45 f4
FA 80-200 f2.8
DA 10-17 f3.5-4.5
Various Sigma zooms which shall remain un-named.

And after all these years the 28-105 is, IMO (with the exception of
the 80-200), still the best of the of the lot WRT sharpness 
rendering. True, it's big  heavy, but it's a handy range for my
type of photography  very sharp. It suffers somewhat from CA but
that's not a big problem as I can generally fix that in the RAW
converter.

I must admit, as a long time zoom user I'm now something of a prime
snob, so the zooms don't get much of a workout.

Dave S.

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RE: 24-90 flare

2006-06-16 Thread Roman
I too love this lense, and had noticed serious flare in tele mode closer 
to the end - 90mm

and less flare on 43mm on this sunset shot.

http://roman.blakout.net/r-rated/480x360-imgp0512.jpg


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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread Tom Reese
From: Godfrey DiGiorgi [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  From a mechanical perspective, the professional quality slide  
 projection system was a disaster.

We've conducted slide contests for years without any problems at all and we'll 
continue those. My question was about adding digital projections to the 
competition in order to allow more people to participate. Some of our members 
shoot digitally and don't have the equipment, expertise or $ to produce medium 
to large prints for our club competitions. I want to afford ALL members the 
opportunity to participate in the contests from point and shooters on up. 
Digital projection would provide that opportunity.

I don't want to create another digital projector category because the contests 
take too long now. It's a fast easy process to switch projectors on the stand 
and combining slides and digital projection into one contest seems to be a 
relatively simple thing to do.

Our Federation of Camera Clubs interclub contests just had their first combined 
digital projections and slides contest. I wasn't there but I haven't heard 
anything negative about the experiment.

Thank you for your input.

Tom Reese

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Re: camera club question re: projected image contests

2006-06-16 Thread Tom Reese
From: Patrice LACOUTURE (GMail) [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 My club organizes every year quite a big contest (as far as a few 
 thousands candidate photos is considered big), and seriously considered 
 digital projection along with slides.
 We discussed with other clubs and decided that we would not venture into 
 this yet, mainly for manpower reasons (reception, sorting etc...).
 
 However, we've often projected digital in various other occasions.
 
 What we learned:
 The quality is certainly behind slide projection, in resolution, and 
 specially in color accuracy and stability (compared to a reasonably good 
 slide projector typically available in a club). Maybe it's because the 
 digital projectors we used were bad, but this proved noticeable with 
 various recent models. Regarding color rendition, we did not have the 
 hardware to calibrate the projected image, though.
 
 The photos are not on the same playing ground not only depending on the 
 support (digi vs. film), but also depending on the image orientation. 
 While a slide can be projected vertically and horizontally with equal 
 quality, the digital imager is a horizontal rectangle. Therefore, with a 
 1600x1200 imager, horizontal images will be 1600x1066, while vertical 
 images will be only 1200*800 (2/3 images like 24x36 and APS-C). The 
 projected vertical image will be much smaller, with the same dot size, 
 and will lose more detail.

thank you Patrice. I wasn't aware of the vertical orientation issue. That's 
certainly food for thought.

Tom Reese

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Re: Your Favorite Zoom Lens

2006-06-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

On Jun 16, 2006, at 10:49 AM, David Savage wrote:

 I must admit, as a long time zoom user I'm now something of a prime
 snob, so the zooms don't get much of a workout.

:-)

In the past, I always tried zooms with my 35mm SLR gear and gave them  
up for various reasons of flare, size, weight or speed. I never  
considered my self a 'prime snob', I just tend to work with  
relatively few focal lengths and prefer the speed and size of the  
primes.

In recent years, zoom lenses have really come a long way with with  
some exceptional quality performance. The fixed lens digital camera  
lenses at the high end are remarkable ... the lenses on my Sony F707/ 
F717/R1, Konica Minolta A2, and Panasonic FZ10 have been amazing  
performers.

My shooting habits, however, haven't changed as much. I still tend to  
prefer prime focal lengths for their speed and compactness, even  
though the margins are smaller than they used to be. But the wide to  
normal range provided by the FA20-35 is such a perfect match for that  
huge percentage of my photography, and the FA20-35 is such a good  
performer, that it's won me over and I hardly miss having primes in  
this range except occasionally for the speed.

While I still have the 100-300 and 35-70, I don't think I've taken a  
picture with either of them in months and months. I'm rarely using  
anything longer than the 77mm now, most of my long lens work is the  
FA50/1.4!

Godfrey


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