Re: T shirts

[Bob W-PDML]

Yes, two strangers in one t-shirt - deserves a photo.

B

> On 18 Sep 2015, at 16:35, John  wrote:
> 
> No photos?
> 
>> On 9/16/2015 1:49 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
>> I'm at sfo, I saw two people, not together, wearing the same Pentax
>> t-shirt. I asked one and she said that it wasn't for any event. I was
>> hoping that there was a surprise announcement of a new camera.
> 
> 

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Re: T shirts

[John]

No photos?

On 9/16/2015 1:49 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

I'm at sfo, I saw two people, not together, wearing the same Pentax
t-shirt. I asked one and she said that it wasn't for any event. I was
hoping that there was a surprise announcement of a new camera.



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Re: T mount lens adapters - a question.

[Toine]

M42 thread isn't the same as Tmount M42 is 42x1.0 and Tmount 42x0.75.
If you apply some force a Tmount adapter fill fit on a M42 lens. You
won't get infinity focus with this combination.
Tmount are made for special lenses and other things like microscope
and telescope adapters.

If your 200mm does focus at infinity it's not M42 but tmount on the lens

Toine

On 25 June 2010 14:57, Malcolm Smith malcolmsmi...@btinternet.com wrote:
 The great benefit of sticking with Pentax for me has been the continued use
 of M42 screw thread lenses. I use them with a small Pentax K ring to M42
 thread in both my film and digital SLRs. I've recently acquired for a very
 small sum a 200mm M42 lens that has a T mount attached to it. As it still
 has a screw thread, it works perfectly with the usual mount. Is the real
 purpose of this mount so that you can fit a K mount to it as a permanent
 fixture, and then use it as you would any other K mount lens?

 Malcolm


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RE: T mount lens adapters - a question.

[Malcolm Smith]

Thanks Toine,

 M42 thread isn't the same as Tmount M42 is 42x1.0 and Tmount 42x0.75.
 If you apply some force a Tmount adapter fill fit on a M42 lens. You
 won't get infinity focus with this combination.
 Tmount are made for special lenses and other things like microscope
 and telescope adapters.
 
 If your 200mm does focus at infinity it's not M42 but tmount on the
 lens

I've not put it up to the camera yet, but just put the adapter ring on the
mount and it spun on very easily. I think I will just take this mount off
then, as I have no microscope or other special use.

Malcolm




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Re: T mount lens adapters - a question.

[P. J. Alling]

Yes.  You won't get any more automation, (T mounts are basically just 
machined metal), but if you're using K mount lenses it's more 
convenient.  If it's your only K mount lens it will be less so.


On 6/25/2010 8:57 AM, Malcolm Smith wrote:

The great benefit of sticking with Pentax for me has been the continued use
of M42 screw thread lenses. I use them with a small Pentax K ring to M42
thread in both my film and digital SLRs. I've recently acquired for a very
small sum a 200mm M42 lens that has a T mount attached to it. As it still
has a screw thread, it works perfectly with the usual mount. Is the real
purpose of this mount so that you can fit a K mount to it as a permanent
fixture, and then use it as you would any other K mount lens?

Malcolm


   



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RE: T mount lens adapters - a question.

[J.C. O'Connell]

T-mounts have a male thread of 42mm by 0.75mm thead pitch, 
M42 lenses have a 42mm by 1.0mm pitch. Don't attempt to
fit a T-mount lens onto a M42 body or M42 adapter directly.
You need to use the correct Tmount adapter with T mount
lenses

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-Original Message-
From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of P.
J. Alling
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 3:20 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: T mount lens adapters - a question.


Yes.  You won't get any more automation, (T mounts are basically just 
machined metal), but if you're using K mount lenses it's more 
convenient.  If it's your only K mount lens it will be less so.

On 6/25/2010 8:57 AM, Malcolm Smith wrote:
 The great benefit of sticking with Pentax for me has been the 
 continued use of M42 screw thread lenses. I use them with a small 
 Pentax K ring to M42 thread in both my film and digital SLRs. I've 
 recently acquired for a very small sum a 200mm M42 lens that has a T 
 mount attached to it. As it still has a screw thread, it works 
 perfectly with the usual mount. Is the real purpose of this mount so 
 that you can fit a K mount to it as a permanent fixture, and then use 
 it as you would any other K mount lens?

 Malcolm





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3.0 and the interface subtly weird.\par }


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RE: T mount lens adapters - a question.

[Malcolm Smith]

 P. J. Alling wrote:

 Yes.  You won't get any more automation, (T mounts are basically just
 machined metal), but if you're using K mount lenses it's more
 convenient.  If it's your only K mount lens it will be less so.

I'm fine on the lack of automation, just trying to save swapping mounts
about. I did look at getting a M42 to K mount for each lens, but there is a
huge difference in price between the genuine Pentax article and copies - a
look on eBay earlier found the genuine item on sale for the better part of
£50 from a dealer and £5 copies. Even getting a copy often doubles what I've
paid for an M42 thread lens, so it is a serious matter...

Malcolm


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RE: T mount lens adapters - a question.

[Malcolm Smith]

 J.C. O'Connell wrote:

 T-mounts have a male thread of 42mm by 0.75mm thead pitch,
 M42 lenses have a 42mm by 1.0mm pitch. Don't attempt to
 fit a T-mount lens onto a M42 body or M42 adapter directly.
 You need to use the correct Tmount adapter with T mount
 lenses

Duly noted.

Malcolm


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RE: T: What I have been doing the last year

[John Sessoms]

From: Walter Hamler

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v699/newtmaker/?action=viewcurrent=AstrologArticle.jpg

This is my latest creation, a novel that has been floating around in
my head for 10 or 15 years. Last June I decided to write it and it
grew to four volumes that Amazon is now featuring as a compilation of
all four.
If you are so inclined to order and read, the author would be
grateful. I would also like any feedback. Be honest!   :-) 


Walt


Way to go.

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Re: T-max 100 professional - 120

[P. J. Alling]

I think if you simply develop if for a slightly longer time you'd get 
reasonable results.  I wouldn't mind trying them, of course I'll be 
re-spooling them for 620.

ann sanfedele wrote:
 Got box of five rolls, but it is out dated...
 box is stamped  0581 003 02/2004

 Is this of any use to anyone?  
 I grabbed it at a local thrift in a moment of weakness...

 I seem to remember shooting out of date tri-x and managed to
 get fair negs out of it if I upped the contrast factors.  but this is
 kind of a blur at this point

 ann


   


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Re: T-max 100 professional - 120

[Mark Cassino]

Depending on how it has been stored it should be fine. I shot out 
seeveral rolls of old T-Max 100 (35mmm format) in the last few years, 
some of which were 5-6 years out of date. They were stored in a freezer 
though, and were fine.

It it spent the last year on the back seat of a car parked in New Mexico...

I'd probably shoot it at SIO 80 and push up the development time a bit 
for the first test. Then adjust off that.

Good luck -

MCC

ann sanfedele wrote:
 Got box of five rolls, but it is out dated...
 box is stamped  0581 003 02/2004
 
 Is this of any use to anyone?  
 I grabbed it at a local thrift in a moment of weakness...
 
 I seem to remember shooting out of date tri-x and managed to
 get fair negs out of it if I upped the contrast factors.  but this is
 kind of a blur at this point
 
 ann
 
 


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Re: T-max 100 professional - 120

[ann sanfedele]

Sounds promising - although I bought it only to pass on to someone else 
__ I dont have
a camera to shoot 120 with and I cant work in the darkroom anymore anyway.

I'd ship it to anyone who wanted it for the cost of shipping first class 
and $3.00 for the five rolls in
the original box.

Or bring it for someone to grab at GFM (though that way I have to 
-remember_ to pack it :)

I'm not making any money here -- I just didnt want to see it wasted.

ann

Mark Cassino wrote:

Depending on how it has been stored it should be fine. I shot out 
seeveral rolls of old T-Max 100 (35mmm format) in the last few years, 
some of which were 5-6 years out of date. They were stored in a freezer 
though, and were fine.

It it spent the last year on the back seat of a car parked in New Mexico...

I'd probably shoot it at SIO 80 and push up the development time a bit 
for the first test. Then adjust off that.

Good luck -

MCC

ann sanfedele wrote:
  

Got box of five rolls, but it is out dated...
box is stamped  0581 003 02/2004

Is this of any use to anyone?  
I grabbed it at a local thrift in a moment of weakness...

I seem to remember shooting out of date tri-x and managed to
get fair negs out of it if I upped the contrast factors.  but this is
kind of a blur at this point

ann






  




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Re: T-max 100 professional - 120

[P. J. Alling]

Ann, I guess this didn't get to the list before, but I'd be interested.  
(I'm always looking for old 120 film to re-spool to 620 to use in my 
Medalist II).

ann sanfedele wrote:
 Got box of five rolls, but it is out dated...
 box is stamped  0581 003 02/2004

 Is this of any use to anyone?  
 I grabbed it at a local thrift in a moment of weakness...

 I seem to remember shooting out of date tri-x and managed to
 get fair negs out of it if I upped the contrast factors.  but this is
 kind of a blur at this point

 ann


   


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Re: T 90

[Bob Shell]

On Oct 14, 2006, at 11:46 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I bought a T90 because it uses AA batteries.  Once I got it in my  
 hands I
 realized how great a machine it is.   I have four FD lenses for  
 it.   I
 also own a Canon EOS-RT,  the one with the pellicle mirror.  I have  
 never
 moaned that I couldn't use the FD lenses on it.   I got a couple of  
 zooms
 for the RT that I now use with my first dslr,  the D30.

I loved the T90.  Anyone remember Hexa-Photo-Cybernetics, the  
rather unwieldy slogan Canon used in its ad campaign?  The problem  
with the T90 is that most of them for sale have darkened LCDs, and  
Canon hasn't had replacement parts for years.  I wouldn't buy one now  
with the intention of using it for a lot of years.  Contax RTS III  
has the same problem.  LCDs are dying in them prematurely.

I have an EOS-RT as well. It's in a drawer somewhere in my studio.   
Haven't used it in ages.  I guess I ought to dig it out and make sure  
it still works, and eBay it if it does.  Not much point in keeping it  
if I never use it.

Bob

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Re: T-Max 100 - old and new

[Paul Stenquist]

I've been very pleased with boht T-Max 100 and 400 souped in D-76 1:1.
With the 400 film, I expose it at 200 and develop it for 11 minutes at
68 degrees F. Very nice.
Paul

Mark Cassino wrote:
 
 At 12:50 AM 8/27/2003 -0400, you wrote:
 I run my TMax, old and new, by the Kodak numbers, in D:76 1:1.
 Without looking at the markings on the film, I can't tell the difference
 between the old or the new in the negatives, or the prints that they produce.
 So no difference for me.
 
 Thanks, Mat - as long as it is possible to get the same quality, I'll
 fiddle with the development times until I get it right - starting with the
 times from Kodak.  I've been using D-76 1:1 and have it on hand, so that
 will be the starting point also for developers.
 
 - MCC
 -
 Mark Cassino
 Kalamazoo, MI
 -
 
 Photography:
 
 http://www.markcassino.com

Re: T-Max 100 - old and new

[Paul Stenquist]

I use T-Max developer for fast films like TMZ 3200 or Delta 3200. But I
don't like it for the T-Max 100 and 400. It seems to make them too
contrasty and harsh. Perhaps it's just me, but I prefer the D-76 1:1 for
those films. By the way, there are some serious pros who sware by D-23
for the 100 and 400 Kodak T-Grain films. I have the specs somewhere and
will post them tomorrow if I can find them.
Paul

Mark Cassino wrote:
 
 At 11:30 AM 8/27/2003 -0400, you wrote:
 I am by no means an expert on this yet,but i have used Tmax 1:4 using the
 old times and i think my negs come out fine.I have not printed any since
 class ended in May,but those looked nice.
 The ones done in Ilfotec DDX looked more like you describe Mark.A little
 under developed.
 
 I may try T-Max developer after my D-76 runs out.  I was avoiding it
 because it comes as a liquid concentrate and I was concerned about shelf
 life - but looking at the spec sheet it looks like the concentrate will
 last up to 2 years (I assume even in a half full bottle) so that should not
 be a problem.
 
 - MCC
 -
 Mark Cassino
 Kalamazoo, MI
 -
 
 Photography:
 
 http://www.markcassino.com

Re: T-Max 100 - old and new

[Mark Cassino]

At 12:50 AM 8/27/2003 -0400, you wrote:
I run my TMax, old and new, by the Kodak numbers, in D:76 1:1.
Without looking at the markings on the film, I can't tell the difference 
between the old or the new in the negatives, or the prints that they produce.
So no difference for me.
Thanks, Mat - as long as it is possible to get the same quality, I'll 
fiddle with the development times until I get it right - starting with the 
times from Kodak.  I've been using D-76 1:1 and have it on hand, so that 
will be the starting point also for developers.

- MCC
-
Mark Cassino
Kalamazoo, MI
-
Photography:

http://www.markcassino.com

Re: T-Max 100 - old and new

[Mark Cassino]

At 11:30 AM 8/27/2003 -0400, you wrote:
I am by no means an expert on this yet,but i have used Tmax 1:4 using the
old times and i think my negs come out fine.I have not printed any since
class ended in May,but those looked nice.
The ones done in Ilfotec DDX looked more like you describe Mark.A little
under developed.
I may try T-Max developer after my D-76 runs out.  I was avoiding it 
because it comes as a liquid concentrate and I was concerned about shelf 
life - but looking at the spec sheet it looks like the concentrate will 
last up to 2 years (I assume even in a half full bottle) so that should not 
be a problem.

- MCC
-
Mark Cassino
Kalamazoo, MI
-
Photography:

http://www.markcassino.com

Re: T-Max 100 - old and new

[brooksdj]

 At 11:30 AM 8/27/2003 -0400, you wrote:
 I am by no means an expert on this yet,but i have used Tmax 1:4 using the
 old times and i think my negs come out fine.I have not printed any since
 class ended in May,but those looked nice.
 The ones done in Ilfotec DDX looked more like you describe Mark.A little
 under developed.
 
 I may try T-Max developer after my D-76 runs out.  I was avoiding it 
 because it comes as a liquid concentrate and I was concerned about shelf 
 life - but looking at the spec sheet it looks like the concentrate will 
 last up to 2 years (I assume even in a half full bottle) so that should not 
 be a problem.

I keep my chemicals in the deacons bench we have.No light and stable temps.So far so 
good,even with a clear bottle.
Three rolls left to develop and the summer stash is complete(20 rolls).However only 
enough
on hand 
for 1 roll.To the darkroom mobile, stopbath man.:-)

Dave


 - MCC
 -
 Mark Cassino
 Kalamazoo, MI
 -
 
 Photography:
 
 http://www.markcassino.com
 
 
 

Re: T-Max 100 - old and new

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

I am by no means an expert on this yet,but i have used Tmax 1:4 using the
old times and i think my negs come out fine.I have not printed any since
class ended in May,but those looked nice.
The ones done in Ilfotec DDX looked more like you describe Mark.A little
under developed.
Dave

Original Message:
-
From: Mat Maessen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 00:50:29 -0400
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: T-Max 100 - old and new


I run my TMax, old and new, by the Kodak numbers, in D:76 1:1.
Without looking at the markings on the film, I can't tell the difference 
between the old or the new in the negatives, or the prints that they 
produce.
So no difference for me.

-Mat

Mark Cassino wrote:
 A couple of weeks ago I shot some of the old T-Max 100, developed it in 
 D-76 1:1, and was utterly stunned by the results.  I haven't developed a 
 lot of film, but on a few occasions with the old T-Max everything seems 
 to come together and the results are fantastic - outstanding tonal range 
 and almost no grain (even when scanned.)
 
 Unfortunately, my supply of old T-Max 100 is running out.  Last fall I 
 developed 4 or 5 rolls of the new T-Max 100 and was really disappointed 
 - the negs were very thin, looking both under exposed and under 
 developed.  I used the new development times and  the shots were the 
 first I took in a studio lighting / studio portraiture class, so I never 
 really figured out if I had botched the exposure, the development, or 
 both. Since darkroom work was not as aspect of the class, I just 
 switched over to color negative film, had it developed at the local 
 mini-lab, and scanned and printed...
 
 Looking on the web, opinions range from the new T-Max is a totally new 
 film to the the new T-max is a minor tweak.  So - I'm wondering if 
 any of the home developers on the list have come to terms with the new 
 T-Max formulations.  If so - what works?  I'd really like to be able to 
 get that fine to no grain look on a consistent basis...
 
 Thanks in advance -
 
 MCC
 -
 Mark Cassino
 Kalamazoo, MI
 -
 
 Photography:
 
 http://www.markcassino.com
 
 



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Re: T-Max is pink?

[Albano_Garcia]

Just to finish this alreafy dead thread, I fixed the roll (our fixer was
exhausted) and washed it heavily and the pink is completely gone.
Regards and thanks

Albano
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Re: T-Max is pink?

[Anthony Farr]

Fresh standard fixer shouldn't take longer than 3 minutes to clear film and
therefore 6 minutes to fix.  Used fixer is exhausted when the clearing time
reaches double the original time for fresh solution.  If your fixer took 8
minutes to clear (half of 16 minutes) then it was exhausted.  You didn't say
which dilution you use your Agefix at.  I use the stronger dilution (1:4
IIRC) which gives times in the rapid fixer range.

Rapid fixer works twice as fast so the times above need to be halved.  The
common wisdom is that Tmax films prefer rapid fixers in very fresh
condition.  I personally would reject the fixer if clearing time was more
than 50% over the original time (no scientific basis, just building in a
generous safety factor).  My Tmax negs are neutral grey and have clear
rebates.

Regards,
Anthony Farr


- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



 Hi, gang
 Yesterday, I developed a roll of TMZ in HC-110. When I finished fixing it
I
 noticed it was pink. My friend told me that the base of T-Max emulsions is
 pink, and that it makes it looks as if it were not correctly fixed, and
 gives headaches to novices thinking they are doing it wrong. Is it true?
 I fixed it in Agefix for 16 minutes (I tested with the film leader and
gave
 twice that time to the roll).
 Regards

 AG
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Re: T-Max is pink?

[Collin Brendemuehl]

Who ever said darkroom work was difficult!

KC8TKA


I is not necessary to 'overfix' TMAX when using Kodak Rapid Fixer. I fix for
7 minutes followed by five fill and dumps of running water. Next, I rinse 30
seconds with constant agitation in Photoflo 1:200. This is followed by a 2
1/2 minute rinse with constant agitation in Orbit Bath, Perma Wash, or
equivalent. (When this is poured out, the solution is distinctly pink.)
Next,wash normally and dip in Photoflo before drying. In my experience with
many rolls of TMAX, the pink/purple stain is completely removed. The
procedure was recommended  by Industrial Photography Magazine shortly after
TMAX was introduced.

Ed Matthew


*
KC8TKA

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Re: T: Voyager control panels

[Cotty]

Has any one noticed that the colors of the control panels on the starship 
Voyager are almost exactly the colors of the focusing scales on Pentax 
pre-FA series lenses?  Light blue and light yellow, that is.

Pat, you're a sick man.

No I didn't but I watch Voyager

;-)

Cotty

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Re: T: Voyager control panels

[Paul Jones]

 Has any one noticed that the colors of the control panels on the starship
 Voyager are almost exactly the colors of the focusing scales on Pentax
 pre-FA series lenses?  Light blue and light yellow, that is.

 Pat, you're a sick man.

 No I didn't but I watch Voyager

I saw the model of the Enterprise on your desk!
(i think it was the enterprise?)
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Re: T-Max 400 Processing

[Mike Johnston]

Paul wrote:

 Last week I shot a roll of that film at 300 while roaming Manhattan
 on a gray morning, so I thought I'd give this procedure a try. I had
 some fresh D-76, so I figured I'd try that one 1:1 at 68 degrees. And
 since I have a condenser enlarger, I figured I'd limit the development
 time to 10 minutes. I'm very pleased with the results.

Paul,
According to Dick Dickerson, who was head of BW Product Development at
Kodak when he and Sylvia Zawadzki headed up the T-Max project, D-76 was the
developer used on the T-Max emulsions throughout the development process.

--Mike

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Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)

[Norm Baugher]

There's many answers to your question. For myself, at minimum I ~always~ have a
medium yellow attached to my lenses, only taken off depending on the
situation...
Norm

Ed Mathews wrote:

 OK, Allan and Bill:  I'm going to do this.  I've been putting off using any
 filtration in BW for years, just because I don't like the idea of it.  So,
 I've more or less changed everything else associated with what I do to
 compensate for it.  But, I'm going to try this now.  So, what is the number
 of the first filter I should try, that would start at giving me the mildest
 effect to lighten the skintones?  Just some really pale yellow one?  Is
 there any real consistency in filter numbers from brand to brand?


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Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: "Joseph McAllister" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 4:18 AM
Subject: Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)


 William Robb wrote:

  The green filter is pretty
  close to the worst filter you can use for portraiture, as it
  makes the flash tonee dirtly, without bringing out enough of
the
  character.

 I have stared at this for some time, Bill, and still have not
figured
 out just what you had intended.

 Could you please clarify?  Was it in fact "flesh tones dirty?"
 grin   More wine, sir?

Wow, that was pretty incoherent, even for me. What I meant to
say was "flesh tones dirty". Meaning it will darken the flesh
tones without opening up much detail.
Bill


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Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)

[Ann Sanfedele]

I've always shot black and white stuff with a yellow filter  but have found that to
be unflattering for people pictures (though "truer")  seems to me the best thing
for black and white portraiture is no filter.  Tried the greeny once myself -
didn't seem to produce
very pleasing results.  Anyone want to buy it??? g

annsan



Norm Baugher wrote:

 There's many answers to your question. For myself, at minimum I ~always~ have a
 medium yellow attached to my lenses, only taken off depending on the
 situation...
 Norm

 Ed Mathews wrote:

  OK, Allan and Bill:  I'm going to do this.  I've been putting off using any
  filtration in BW for years, just because I don't like the idea of it.  So,
  I've more or less changed everything else associated with what I do to
  compensate for it.  But, I'm going to try this now.  So, what is the number
  of the first filter I should try, that would start at giving me the mildest
  effect to lighten the skintones?  Just some really pale yellow one?  Is
  there any real consistency in filter numbers from brand to brand?
 

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 http://pug.komkon.org.

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Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)

[Rob Studdert]

On 13 Jan 2001, at 14:09, Ed Mathews wrote:

 I love the grain and sharpness of the Delta films, and they do indeed print very
 easily.  I've shot them in bright contrasty sunlight many times, and still have
 very printable negatives.  Highlights are easy to burn with Delta for some
 reason.  The only thing I don't like about them is their Caucasian skin tones,
 which for some reason, are about a zone or two darker than I prefer.  I have no
 idea why this appears to be the case, other than speculating that the emulsion
 just might not be as sensitive to whatever color you would call Caucasian.

Hi Ed,

Have you ever tried shooting portraiture with it through a yellow or orange 
filter?

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
Fax +61-2-9554-9259
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)

[Ed Mathews]

Hey there Rob,
 As a matter of fact, no, I have not tried that, but I've always
wondered if my BW portraits could be improved with filtration.  I had a
small store owner tell me once that many people used green filters for BW
portraits, so he sold me one, and I ended up with the worst results I had
ever obtained, so it sits on my shelf in the closet.  I've never been a fan
of filtration, but what can you suggest that might make sense to me?  I want
a lighter color Caucasian skin tone in my prints.  Probably around zone 7 or
so.  I know that color filters lighten same shade colors for BW, but I've
never thought that skintones were universal enough to use any one filter
for.  Any suggestions?  Maybe it's time I tried a filter or two?


- Original Message -
From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)


 On 13 Jan 2001, at 14:09, Ed Mathews wrote:

  I love the grain and sharpness of the Delta films, and they do indeed
print very
  easily.  I've shot them in bright contrasty sunlight many times, and
still have
  very printable negatives.  Highlights are easy to burn with Delta for
some
  reason.  The only thing I don't like about them is their Caucasian skin
tones,
  which for some reason, are about a zone or two darker than I prefer.  I
have no
  idea why this appears to be the case, other than speculating that the
emulsion
  just might not be as sensitive to whatever color you would call
Caucasian.

 Hi Ed,

 Have you ever tried shooting portraiture with it through a yellow or
orange
 filter?

 Cheers,

 Rob Studdert
 HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
 Tel +61-2-9554-4110
 Fax +61-2-9554-9259
 UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)

[Allan]

A medium yellow filter (K-2) is needed to render BW tones in their proper
value in the color spectrum.

Allan


 From: "Ed Mathews" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 21:44:22 -0500
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)
 
 Hey there Rob,
 As a matter of fact, no, I have not tried that, but I've always
 wondered if my BW portraits could be improved with filtration.  I had a
 small store owner tell me once that many people used green filters for BW
 portraits, so he sold me one, and I ended up with the worst results I had
 ever obtained, so it sits on my shelf in the closet.  I've never been a fan
 of filtration, but what can you suggest that might make sense to me?  I want
 a lighter color Caucasian skin tone in my prints.  Probably around zone 7 or
 so.  I know that color filters lighten same shade colors for BW, but I've
 never thought that skintones were universal enough to use any one filter
 for.  Any suggestions?  Maybe it's time I tried a filter or two?

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Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: "Ed Mathews"
Subject: Re: t-grain films (was re: TMax 400 Processing)


 Hey there Rob,
  As a matter of fact, no, I have not tried that, but I've
always
 wondered if my BW portraits could be improved with
filtration.  I had a
 small store owner tell me once that many people used green
filters for BW
 portraits, so he sold me one, and I ended up with the worst
results I had
 ever obtained, so it sits on my shelf in the closet.  I've
never been a fan
 of filtration, but what can you suggest that might make sense
to me?  I want
 a lighter color Caucasian skin tone in my prints.  Probably
around zone 7 or
 so.  I know that color filters lighten same shade colors for
BW, but I've
 never thought that skintones were universal enough to use any
one filter
 for.  Any suggestions?  Maybe it's time I tried a filter or
two?

To raise the skin tones from zone 5 to zone 7, you will probably
want a #15 medium yellow filter. It is a bit strong for a
general purpose filter for black and white, but I find the #8 on
the weak side. Orange filters give an interesting caucasian skin
tone, and red a very pale skin tone. The green filter is pretty
close to the worst filter you can use for portraiture, as it
makes the flash tonee dirtly, without bringing out enough of the
character. Try an 80A with a well weathered white male sometime.
Remember, the filter lightens its own colour in the print, and
darkens the opposite colour.
William Robb

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