Re: [Quantum Owners] Radiator Hoses - Saloon with rad in nose

[Ken Needham]

Hi quality silicone hoses are available from  *www.viperperformance.co.uk*

.
They make hoses that enable one to make up any link between units.
regards
ken

On Fri, 28 Jul 2023 at 19:19, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk <
lists...@liberator-systems.co.uk> wrote:

> Anyone happen to know the source(s) for top & bottom rad hoses? Standard
> Fiesta ones are obviously not long enough with rad in nosecone. The bottom
> hose is the type with T juntion  feed from heater return.
> John
>
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> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
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Re: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 saloon needing new home

[Ken Needham]

Hi Martin, well spotted, it is in fact a saloon not a 2+2.
Thanks for the correction.

On Tue, 25 Jul 2023 at 11:32, susanandmartin <
susanandmar...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

> Not that I’m in a position to take it on, but…… Is it a saloon or a 2+2?
>
> Martin
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *'Paul S Quantum' via Quantum Owners Group
> 
> *Sent: *25 July 2023 09:12
> *To: *quantumowners@googlegroups.com
> *Subject: *RE: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 saloon needing new home
>
>
>
> Hi Ken
>
> Can you let me know the registration of your car so I can check to see if
> your car is on the clubs list of known cars.
>
> Sent you a email a few days back but presume you didn’t get the email.
>
> My Email is
>
> quantumhistor...@btinternet.com
>
>
>
> if you don’t want the details of the car in the public domain.
>
>
>
> Good luck with your sale as red is by far the best colour that suits the
> quantum saloon & such as shame you are having to let it go.
>
> I know how it feels as I had  to let my quantum 2+2 a few years ago &
> regretted it for years after.
>
>
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> Quantum owners club historian
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Ken Needham 
> *Sent: *24 July 2023 16:12
> *To: *quantumowners@googlegroups.com
> *Subject: *Re: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 saloon needing new home
>
>
>
> Hi Darren,
>
> I'm in Reading.  A scrappy has offered £600
>
> but I don't want it to be scrapped. If it may be of interest give me a
> call. 07535656507
>
>
>
> regards
>
> Ken
>
>
>
> *From:* quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
> on behalf of Darren Siepka 
> *Sent:* 17 July 2023 15:50
> *To:* quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 saloon needing new home
>
>
>
> Where abouts are you located?
>
> Any idea what sort of figure you might be after?
>
>
>
> Darren
>
>
>
> On Mon, 17 Jul 2023, 16:41 Ken Needham,  wrote:
>
> I have a Red 2+2 saloon That really needs a new home and TLC.
>
> I was using the car as daily transport up to when Covid hit.
>
> Coincident with retirement I put the car on SORN as there is something
> needing attention on the clutch.
>
> It has an XR3i engine fitted with standard Ford injection ECU, 5 speed box
> and 14 inch Escort wheels with very good Uniroyal rain tyres all round.
>
> The car is not pretty and has a high mileage.
>
> Covid got me early on and after effects are still with me so I can't see
> me able to revive the car in the near future.
>
> I have many spares, original worn CVH engine, Refurbished gearbox
> internals plus a complete gearbox, many light lens and new rear axel
> support arms. Set of 5 13" wheels
>
>
>
> Is this something someone may be interested in?
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
> Ken Needham
>
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>
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
> within this or related message(s).
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> .
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> To

Re: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 saloon needing new home

[Ken Needham]

Hi Darren,
I'm in Reading.  A scrappy has offered £600
but I don't want it to be scrapped. If it may be of interest give me a call. 
07535656507

regards
Ken


From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
of Darren Siepka 
Sent: 17 July 2023 15:50
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 saloon needing new home

Where abouts are you located?
Any idea what sort of figure you might be after?

Darren

On Mon, 17 Jul 2023, 16:41 Ken Needham, 
mailto:kenn...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I have a Red 2+2 saloon That really needs a new home and TLC.
I was using the car as daily transport up to when Covid hit.
Coincident with retirement I put the car on SORN as there is something needing 
attention on the clutch.
It has an XR3i engine fitted with standard Ford injection ECU, 5 speed box and 
14 inch Escort wheels with very good Uniroyal rain tyres all round.
The car is not pretty and has a high mileage.
Covid got me early on and after effects are still with me so I can't see me 
able to revive the car in the near future.
I have many spares, original worn CVH engine, Refurbished gearbox internals 
plus a complete gearbox, many light lens and new rear axel support arms. Set of 
5 13" wheels

Is this something someone may be interested in?

Best regards
Ken Needham

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Headlamp upgrades

[Ken Needham]

Hi Mathew.
I have been down the same path as you but considering a change on my Lotus
elan
I drew the same conclusion as you and have fitted new led headlamp units
 The car has now been through 3 mot tests without comment.
The units I used are sold by pnmparts.co.uk. The improvement is excellent.
I have done considerable research and for once agree with the mot guidence.
Fitting hid or led bulbs in old headlight units results inmuch light
scatter. However I have found hid bulbs fitted to older projector lens
units work very well
I have fitted hid bulbs in a Alfa spider which has also passed several mots
without question



On Sat, 22 Jul 2023, 17:51 mgaskin via Quantum Owners Group, <
quantumowners@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I’ve been doing some reading on the rules about headlights as for a long
> time I’ve wanted to improve my 2+2’s headlights, which seem particularly
> underwhelming after using my modern car.
>
> There’s a lot of conflicting guidance online, which seems to stem from
> some changes to the MOT rules. So I started there, with the relevant part
> seeming to be section 4.1.4:
> https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/
>
>
>
> If I’ve understood it correctly, replacing your halogen bulbs with HID or
> LED equivalents is forbidden for any car used after 1st April 1986, and
> will lead to an automatic failure (‘light source and lamp not
> compatible’).  But the part that’s of interest to me, the amended rule,
> seems to state that there is NOT an automatic failure if you have replaced
> the **entire** headlamp unit with an LED or HID alternative. I’m
> presuming that they would need to be CE/UK CA marked, or given an E number
> but, again, that aspect seems to generate conflicting answers – and
> imported Japan-only or USA-only models seem to be able to pass MOTs just
> fine without those markings from what I’ve read.
>
>
>
> There seem to be loads of possible replacement headlight units out there
> so I was wondering firstly if I’ve understood all of this correctly (anyone
> know a tame MOT tester?) and secondly if any of you have replaced your Q’s
> entire original halogen units with an LED or HID alternative. I’d be
> fascinated to hear what you picked and how it played out.
>
>
>
> Hope you’re all having a great weekend.
>
>
>
> Matthew
>
> Q2-275
>
> --
> --
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>
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
> within this or related message(s).
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> 
> .
>

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[Quantum Owners] 2+2 saloon needing new home

[Ken Needham]

I have a Red 2+2 saloon That really needs a new home and TLC.
I was using the car as daily transport up to when Covid hit.
Coincident with retirement I put the car on SORN as there is something 
needing attention on the clutch.
It has an XR3i engine fitted with standard Ford injection ECU, 5 speed box 
and 14 inch Escort wheels with very good Uniroyal rain tyres all round.
The car is not pretty and has a high mileage.
Covid got me early on and after effects are still with me so I can't see me 
able to revive the car in the near future. 
I have many spares, original worn CVH engine, Refurbished gearbox internals 
plus a complete gearbox, many light lens and new rear axel support arms. 
Set of 5 13" wheels

Is this something someone may be interested in?

Best regards
Ken Needham

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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[Quantum Owners] Re: ULEZ compliant?

[Ken Needham]

I am currently going through a DVLA issue that sort of relates to the point 
you are raising. I recently took my 1969 Lotus for an MOT  but the garage 
that has been MoTing the car for over 30 years now tells me that it failed 
on emissions. Due to a "Chassis" change in '78 the DVLA insisted it be re 
registered so it now has a T plate. The V5 does state "first registered as 
1978 but also contains a note saying it was "first used in 1969"
The document that the MoT Tester is presented with simply states "First 
Registered date"
as 1978 so he tested it as a "78 car.
I see that the MoT Manual tabulates the emissions requirements as to when 
the vehicle was "first used" but pointing this out to the tester did not 
change his mind.
I have complained to the DVLA and await full outcome.
The vehicle VIN plate seems to be the item to settle any argument but the 
administration path is arduous and requires a certificate from the 
manufacturer showing when the vehicle was made based on the VIN.
Another gotchya is the need for an Mot  for vehicles over 40 years old. Kit 
cars threw a spanner in this aspect resulting in the DVLA coming out with a 
points scheme. To be listed as an Historic vehicle the vehicle must be made 
up of mainly original components. Any variation alters the points status 
and may subsequently require the vehicle to be MoTed. This is a very messy 
area and can result in very complex arguments 

Quantum 2+2 saloon  Q plate!
On Wednesday, May 3, 2023 at 10:49:08 AM UTC+1 susanandmartin wrote:

> Planning a trip to London in a modern tin box, we checked to see if the 
> car is ULEZ compliant (no real surprise that it is)…. Just being curious I 
> entered the Quantum registration number to find it was also compliant! This 
> is a huge surprise, as it is a 1987 donor with a CVH engine and E-prefix 
> registration number (albeit V5 says ‘first registered 2009’ when it was 
> SVA’d). It would be interesting to find if other Quantums get the same 
> result 
>
>  
>
> Check your vehicle (tfl.gov.uk) 
> 
>
> Martin Scott
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail  for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Oil pressure switch

[Ken Needham]

Sorry Gents, I just caused confusion. I have not come across the inverted type.
Ken

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Jim Hearne<mailto:j...@quantums.info>
Sent: 14 September 2020 15:45
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com<mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Oil pressure switch

Aftermarket oil pressure gauges are often inverted compared to the petrol and 
temperature gauges on the Quantums.
These oil pressure gauges will go to max if they aren’t connected to the 
sender, or as i suspect the sender has gone open circuit.
Try earthing both the wires (one at a time), one will make the light come on, 
the other make the pressure gauge go to min.

Jim


From: Ken Needham
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 3:36 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Oil pressure switch

Hi Robert, If as Jim says,one wire is for the indicator lamp and the other for 
the gauge, it could be a wiring fault with the “gauge” wire shorting to earth. 
Does the indication lamp come on and then go out with the engine running? If 
you disconnect the wires from the switch, does the gauge go to full scale or 
not move. If it still goes to full scale, a wiring fault is indicated. If not 
then the switch is internally shorted.
Regards
Ken

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: 'robert greig' via Quantum Owners Group
Sent: 10 September 2020 19:15
To: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Oil pressure switch

So I've tried

First clean all contacts.   No change!
Take one wire plug off.No change!
Take the other wire off.   No Change!
swop the wires round.   No change.

and yes if you turn on the ignition the gauge does go to max.

I was confused to start with, now I"ve ordered a replacement So hope that fixes 
this.

Many thanks for the help.

Regards Robert




On Thursday, 10 September 2020, 10:22:50 BST, 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners 
Group  wrote:



Could it be a wiring issue? What happens if you remove one of the connections 
from the sender? Try removing each one at a time.

I'm assuming it goes straight to max when you turn the ignition on, even before 
starting the engine?

Regards,
Steve
On 09/09/2020 21:07, 'robert greig' via Quantum Owners Group wrote:
Hello. Quick question.

Oil pressure switch on the Xtreme!
Mine is showing max when engine is running. It's not a stock Ford one. Two 
wires with push on connectos.
I've seen on ebay simular ones. 80 psi or 100 psi. The gauge in the car is 90 
psi max.
Do I get the 100 psi?

Thanks in advance.

Robert.


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[Quantum Owners] Fiesta front indicators intermittent

[Ken Needham]

Hi, I have again encountered issues with the front indicators being 
intermittent or failing just before the MOT is due.
I have identified the issue is down to the bulb mount which is a plastic plug 
and twist fixing but these parts seem to be very rare particularly in good 
condition.
The indicator lenses seem to be easy to obtain but more often than not do not 
have the bulb mount included.
I have found that the problem is actually down to corrosion of contacts within 
the moulding.
I have successfully “fixed” three bulb holders now by using a Dremel with a 
cutting disk to remove
A small piece of the plastic where the plastic is adjacent to the internal 
contact.
The contact is actually made by the feed wire being pushed in from the rear and 
sliding against the metal strip that goes up the bulb location. The Wire has an 
end on it preventing the wire being pulled out from the rear.
Having cut away the plastic, the wire can be removed and a new wire soldered 
onto the cleaned metal strip.

I have also found a part that could be used to get out of trouble but it is not 
a perfect replacement fit on Ebay.
Replacement Bulb Holder Connector PY21W Indicator Turn Sigal Light BAU15S 
581
( 332007381360 )
This part is slightly smaller in diameter and has 4 location tags rather that 
the Fiesta 3. By cutting one of the tags off  a reasonable fixing can be made.

Hope that may help

Ken

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Radiator repalcement questions

[Ken Needham]

Burton Power still have them listed:-
https://www.burtonpower.com/kenlowe-thermostat-kit-external-25a-kenklm2150.html

Ken
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
of Derek Clews 
Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2020 6:33:15 PM
To: Quantum Owners Forum 
Cc: Derek Clews 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Radiator repalcement questions

I was, forgot, now you mention it. Just googled and got:

Kenlowe only supply fans to vehicle manufacturers/engineering companies and 
field replacements for existing specialist applications. We no longer make or 
supply thermo electric fan packages for retrofit on individual cars for the 
automotive aftermarket.

Who’d a know’d it?

Derek

On 9 Feb 2020, at 18:25, Ken Needham 
mailto:fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk>> wrote:

Gents, are you aware of the Kenlow fan thermostat. This has a variable switch 
point and may be fitted to any rad. They are not cheap but do perform very well.
Ken

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com<mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com> 
mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com>> on 
behalf of bill 
mailto:bill_green_2...@hotmail.co.uk>>
Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2020 2:27:19 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com<mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com> 
mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com>>
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Radiator repalcement questions

Hi Derek, on my car I have a two speed fan and used to have the lower speed 
connected to a manual switch for some time, over time and probably due to 
another failure of a radiator fan switch the lower speed wasn’t connected 
anymore. The fan was now fed through a relay as when the switch was used to 
directly feed the fan the switch was prone to failure. I found the dual 
temperature switch on eBay although I only searched for radiator fan switch, 
when the dual one turned up I thought why not. After that I bought a simple 
on/on switch so I can select which ever I want, a lot of this stemmed from when 
I changed the zetec thermostat and found the fan would be running at the 
engines normal running temperature, hence the original reason for the search. I 
like to be able to power up the fan whenever I may want but also have the fan 
stop when the temperature drops, without anymore input from me
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On 9 Feb 2020, at 13:11, Derek Clews 
mailto:derekcl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Hi Bill,

So you found an unusual replacement, then?  Just wondering what advantage that 
would give in real world conditions over a manual switch to back up the 
standard thermostatic single output switch.  Or worth fitting a two speed fan 
as well?

Still that is why it is worth asking a question on here.  Folks come up with 
all sorts of ideas and experiences.  Great!

Derek


On 8 Feb 2020, at 10:27, bill 
mailto:bill_green_2...@hotmail.co.uk>> wrote:

The last radiator mounted fan switch I fitted was a dual output for two speed 
fan, one output was 88c the other much higher, I run on the higher temperature 
leg, I’m going to connect both through a common on/on switch so I can easily 
select either
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On 8 Feb 2020, at 10:18, Dave English 
mailto:dandh.engl...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Hi Derek

I had to replace my fan switch last year and ended up with the lower 
temperature one (88C-95C), my thermostat is the same as yours, an 88C one. If I 
were you I would go for the 98C to 103C you mentioned because I find the fan 
can come on with the engine at normal running temperature (needle in the 
middle), which means it's on a lot more.
The switch I took out was a 98C to 103C but, as I was doing the replacement 
with a full water system, I didn't fancy holding my finger over the hole until 
another switch came through the post!
The next time I need to drain the system, I'll fit a higher temperature switch. 
(Shouldn't be long, the increasing differential whine means a replacement 
gearbox is now required, so I'll need to drop the engine down.)

Regards
Dave English
Q2-009

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Radiator repalcement questions

[Ken Needham]

Gents, are you aware of the Kenlow fan thermostat. This has a variable switch 
point and may be fitted to any rad. They are not cheap but do perform very well.
Ken

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
of bill 
Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2020 2:27:19 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Radiator repalcement questions

Hi Derek, on my car I have a two speed fan and used to have the lower speed 
connected to a manual switch for some time, over time and probably due to 
another failure of a radiator fan switch the lower speed wasn’t connected 
anymore. The fan was now fed through a relay as when the switch was used to 
directly feed the fan the switch was prone to failure. I found the dual 
temperature switch on eBay although I only searched for radiator fan switch, 
when the dual one turned up I thought why not. After that I bought a simple 
on/on switch so I can select which ever I want, a lot of this stemmed from when 
I changed the zetec thermostat and found the fan would be running at the 
engines normal running temperature, hence the original reason for the search. I 
like to be able to power up the fan whenever I may want but also have the fan 
stop when the temperature drops, without anymore input from me
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On 9 Feb 2020, at 13:11, Derek Clews 
mailto:derekcl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Hi Bill,

So you found an unusual replacement, then?  Just wondering what advantage that 
would give in real world conditions over a manual switch to back up the 
standard thermostatic single output switch.  Or worth fitting a two speed fan 
as well?

Still that is why it is worth asking a question on here.  Folks come up with 
all sorts of ideas and experiences.  Great!

Derek


On 8 Feb 2020, at 10:27, bill 
mailto:bill_green_2...@hotmail.co.uk>> wrote:

The last radiator mounted fan switch I fitted was a dual output for two speed 
fan, one output was 88c the other much higher, I run on the higher temperature 
leg, I’m going to connect both through a common on/on switch so I can easily 
select either
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On 8 Feb 2020, at 10:18, Dave English 
mailto:dandh.engl...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Hi Derek

I had to replace my fan switch last year and ended up with the lower 
temperature one (88C-95C), my thermostat is the same as yours, an 88C one. If I 
were you I would go for the 98C to 103C you mentioned because I find the fan 
can come on with the engine at normal running temperature (needle in the 
middle), which means it's on a lot more.
The switch I took out was a 98C to 103C but, as I was doing the replacement 
with a full water system, I didn't fancy holding my finger over the hole until 
another switch came through the post!
The next time I need to drain the system, I'll fit a higher temperature switch. 
(Shouldn't be long, the increasing differential whine means a replacement 
gearbox is now required, so I'll need to drop the engine down.)

Regards
Dave English
Q2-009

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Charging 2+2 query

[Ken Needham]

Hi Niall, rather late reply but your symptoms suggest an alternator rectifier 
problem. Alternators actually produce 3 phase AC. The rectifier has 6 diodes 
which form a full wave conversion to DC. If one or more of the diodes has blown 
then the alternator will only produce partial rectification. This will cause 
the indicator lamp to be partially illuminated.

It may be possible to fix by replacement of the  rectifier stack but there are 
various designs which may include the controller.

Repair does require heavyweight desoldering of the rectifier from the coils. A 
big soldering iron is required and some unsoldering/soldering skills.

Simpler to get the alternator checked and if faulty get an exchange unit.

Something to check first though is the wiring. There are two wires usually that 
connect to the alternator. The big wire is the charging lead that connects to 
the battery, sometimes via the starter solenoid battery connection. The small 
wire is the wire that gives feedback to the controller of the system voltage. 
Sometimes this is connected directly to the battery or may go back to the 
ignition switch. If this wire has an intermittent connection again the  
indicator lamp will glow.

Hope that helps.

Best regards

Ken



Sent from Mail for Windows 10




From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
of Niall McCracken 
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 8:44:35 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Charging 2+2 query

Thanks Jim, interesting points. I suppose it was a long time ago I may have 
misremembered something! But it was definitely something along those lines (not 
that that is much help to anyone either!)
Niall

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RE: RE: [Quantum Owners] Water Temp Sensor

[Ken Needham]

I see that there is a range of similar sensors where the difference is the 
colour of the shroud. I have not been able to find any real retail but I 
suspect that the colour may relate to the resistance/temperature relationship.
My system uses that sensor to feed the ECU ( An Emerald K6) and has a blue 
shroud
Regards
Ken

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


From: 'robert greig' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2018 7:49:09 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [Quantum Owners] Water Temp Sensor


Having looked at Burton Power and googled AutoMega I've ordered what looks like 
the right Temp Sensor.
So fingers crossed I get the right part.

Many thanks for your help.
Regards Robert
On Saturday, 22 September 2018, 17:56:52 BST, Ken Needham 
 wrote:



Hi Nigel, There are several types of Tstat housing used on the Raceline, some 
with a removable cap and others without. Raceline state that the unit is 
frequently used with no expansion tank and will require frequent checks for 
water level.

I also found on one of the Ford chat sites (passion for Ford?) that  problems 
will be had if  there is no hole in the thermostat to allow a bleed through 
prior to the stat opening.

The hole needs to be large enough to allow water flow during warmup and small 
enough to ensure the heater gets sufficient flow. The article I read suggested 
about 2 – 3 mm hole.

My system does have a removable cap and header tank but I did get too hot

I drilled a 3mm hole in the thermostat which seemed to fix the problem although 
I have not used the car much since.

I have checked the temp sensor I have fitted in the location along the side of 
the raceline. It has a 12mm thread which then goes into  a T piece . The thread 
on the T piece which enters the Raceline is 5/8” OD. As to the thread type It 
may be NTP or BSP. A BSP fitting will only wind onto the T piece a couple of 
turns and a BSP male similarly only winds into the Raceline a turn or so before 
feeling tight. It may be a taper thread.

So I think the answer to Robert’s sensor is that it is an AutoMega or similar 
with a 12 x 1.5mm thread

Regards

Ken

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10




From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
of Nigel Plant 
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2018 4:21:03 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Water Temp Sensor

On the zetec Xtreme installation, there is no space for a temp sensor on old 
thermostat housing  which is where the raceline bolts on as there is no 
clearance to the bulkhead. The intermediate position is used for a T piece 
connected to the water temp sensor and heater hose. Thus leaving the tstat 
housing for the cooling fan temp sensor.

I will check mine later to see if can help. What about buying from Burton Power 
who sell Raceline or Raceline themselves.

Out of interest have you checked yours? I have found on mine that the tstat 
housing is very high and if the water level is down ie expansion tsnk below the 
sensor the fan performance gets erratic or doesn't work. I assume due to an air 
lock.
Regards
Nigel

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
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Cl

RE: [Quantum Owners] Water Temp Sensor

[Ken Needham]

Hi Nigel, There are several types of Tstat housing used on the Raceline, some 
with a removable cap and others without. Raceline state that the unit is 
frequently used with no expansion tank and will require frequent checks for 
water level.

I also found on one of the Ford chat sites (passion for Ford?) that  problems 
will be had if  there is no hole in the thermostat to allow a bleed through 
prior to the stat opening.

The hole needs to be large enough to allow water flow during warmup and small 
enough to ensure the heater gets sufficient flow. The article I read suggested 
about 2 – 3 mm hole.

My system does have a removable cap and header tank but I did get too hot

I drilled a 3mm hole in the thermostat which seemed to fix the problem although 
I have not used the car much since.

I have checked the temp sensor I have fitted in the location along the side of 
the raceline. It has a 12mm thread which then goes into  a T piece . The thread 
on the T piece which enters the Raceline is 5/8” OD. As to the thread type It 
may be NTP or BSP. A BSP fitting will only wind onto the T piece a couple of 
turns and a BSP male similarly only winds into the Raceline a turn or so before 
feeling tight. It may be a taper thread.

So I think the answer to Robert’s sensor is that it is an AutoMega or similar 
with a 12 x 1.5mm thread

Regards

Ken

Sent from Mail for Windows 10




From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
of Nigel Plant 
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2018 4:21:03 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Water Temp Sensor

On the zetec Xtreme installation, there is no space for a temp sensor on old 
thermostat housing  which is where the raceline bolts on as there is no 
clearance to the bulkhead. The intermediate position is used for a T piece 
connected to the water temp sensor and heater hose. Thus leaving the tstat 
housing for the cooling fan temp sensor.

I will check mine later to see if can help. What about buying from Burton Power 
who sell Raceline or Raceline themselves.

Out of interest have you checked yours? I have found on mine that the tstat 
housing is very high and if the water level is down ie expansion tsnk below the 
sensor the fan performance gets erratic or doesn't work. I assume due to an air 
lock.
Regards
Nigel

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Water Temp Sensor

[Ken Needham]

Hi Robert, It is possible to fit a temp sensor in three places on the Raceline 
water rail.

  1.  Just behind the head where the original Mondeo thermostat would have 
been. I think this is 1/8 NTP.
  2.  Roughly half way along the rail towards the Thermostat. This thread is 
much larger 3/8 NTP maybe?
  3.  At the thermostat. I believe this is normally use for the Fan temp sensor.
All are different size threads. Which one are you using?
I will look at mine and see if there are nay marks
Regards
Ken

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: 'robert greig' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2018 1:05:01 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Water Temp Sensor

Hello Everyone.

I have a black top Zetec from a 2004/5 focus with a Raceline water rail fitted.
The water Temp Sensor is not a ford Focus part, its the same ford connecter but 
the thread and probe bit are a different size.

My old Temp Sensor has 16F7  and  W715c stamped on it.

I am told by Raceline that the thread is R8PNT


Dose anyone else have this?

As I need a new Sensor but all my attempts keeps coming up with the wrong part.
Any ideas where to try next?

Regards Robert.

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[Quantum Owners] Zetec alternator conversion pulley?

[Ken Needham]

Hi, A conversion of the Zetec enables the alternator to be fitted under the 
inlet manifold by using an “extra” ribbed pulley between the alternator and the 
water pump.
My pulley is starting to break up but I can’t find any reference as to the 
origin of the pulley.
Does anyone know?
Also I have been unable to access Jim’s website, is anything wrong?
Best regards
Ken

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Mot failed

[Ken Needham]

This burnt wiring  comment by the MOT man has me wondering.
Last year after a 40 mile run , I parked up but when I got back to the car and 
tried to start, there was the smell of burning wiring. Having got towed home , 
I found that the wiring under the rear seat squab which goes to the fuel tank 
sender was all melted together. That is directly over the exhaust!  I never 
found a cause and only found this issue by accident.
May be worth a check under the seat squab. Once lit fibreglass burns quickly!

Regards Ken Needham

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


From: 'The Blue Pig' via Quantum Owners Group <quantumowners@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 7:56:19 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Mot failed

Correction: That should be 'Stone Marten' and not as written.

On Friday, 11 May 2018 08:34:01 UTC+1, The Blue Pig wrote:
I'm sure mice could damage electrical components and it's made me wonder if 
they could damage more than that on a Quantum. In the attic, there are plenty 
of boxes and containers showing signs of vigorous gnawing activity, even to the 
extent of parts of childhood toy vehicles having tyres and hard plastic 
components destroyed. It makes me wonder whether a mouse within GRP body-work 
might end up trying to nibble its way out, or simply chew to keep its teeth 
down. (Rodents' teeth grow continuously. They need to gnaw in order to keep 
them to a sensible size.). Has anyone experienced this?

On the continent, the young of the Stone Martin (a creature half way between a 
weasel and a badger; clearly,they thought that "beasel" or "wadger" would sound 
silly) are noted in rural areas for wrecking car wiring, brake hoses and other 
non-metallic components by aggressive chewing. They're not rodents, they're 
just inquisitively chewy and destructive

On Thursday, 10 May 2018 17:55:16 UTC+1, Susan and Martin Scott wrote:
MICE??
- Original Message -
From: 'robert greig' via Quantum Owners Group
To: Quantum Owners Group
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2018 5:06 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Mot failed

This is why I will not do wiring.
At least it happened at the Mot test.
Not on our holiday.
[X]
Robert.
Sent from Yahoo Mail on 
Android<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon fuel tank

[Ken Needham]

Thanks again Jim and Martin.

All valuable tips.


regards

Ken



From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com <quantumowners@googlegroups.com> on behalf 
of chris.qu...@btinternet.com <chris.qu...@btinternet.com>
Sent: 31 March 2017 11:57
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon fuel tank

The rubber seal on the tank is the same size for MK1 and MK2 so presumably the 
filler pipe is the same size.

Chris G

From: Jim Hearne<mailto:j...@quantums.info>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:28 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com<mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon fuel tank

As Martin has said, if you have a Mk1 tank or a early non XR2 tank you can 
replace it with the later bigger Mk2 tank.
But, you will need to get the matching sender and rework the fuel pipes around 
the tank.
I'm not certain the fuel filler pipe where it goes into the tank is the same 
size either.

Jim



On 30/03/2017 21:02, Susan and Martin Scott wrote:
If you have a mk1 tank then the mk2 will be the best option because the top 
will be the same shape (but mk2 needs a top mounted sender, the mk1 is side 
mounted) and it will be a little lower.  Unless you ae likely to have 
particular ground clearance issues it will be good. When you say yours has 
'taken a beating' do you mean with the things hitting it?
Reminds me of last year whilst driving my saloon I missed some debris which had 
dropped off a truck a short while before, but I ran over a workman's safety hat 
- thankfully the workman's head wasn't still in it!  The hat just caught the 
tank and scraped along the road making an horendous racket before it came loose.
Martin



- Original Message -
From: Ken Needham<mailto:fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk>
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com<mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon fuel tank


Ah thanks, that sounds about right. I get about 34 litres from really empty.

Ed has indicated that I probably have a Mk1 tank and anything larger would not 
fit. I have thought about an auxiliary tank in the boot. May be the best 
solution.



Thanks for the feedback.

Ken




From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com<mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com> 
<quantumowners@googlegroups.com<mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com>> on 
behalf of KCBob mailto:robertjhatha...@gmail.com
Sent: 30 March 2017 12:10
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon fuel tank

The Mk2 Fiesta had two different sizes of fuel tank that could have been fitted 
(dependant on year of manufacture and model, from 1986 all models were fitted 
with the larger 8.8 gallon tank, prior to that they all (except the XR2) had a 
7.5 gallon tank (the XR2 had the 8.8 gallon one); is it possible that your car 
has the smaller tank fitted? and if so if you can get an 8.8 gallon one then 
your range would increase anyway.

On Monday, 27 March 2017 18:42:11 UTC+1, KaJa wrote:

Hi everyone, my saloon is well run in with 172000,  Seems low compared with the 
220K others have achieved.

However, the fuel tank has taken a beating and I wonder if I could fit the Mk 3 
tank which i believe is slightly larger?

Has anyone tried?



regards

Ken

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon fuel tank

[Ken Needham]

Ah thanks, that sounds about right. I get about 34 litres from really empty.

Ed has indicated that I probably have a Mk1 tank and anything larger would not 
fit. I have thought about an auxiliary tank in the boot. May be the best 
solution.


Thanks for the feedback.

Ken




From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
of KCBob 
Sent: 30 March 2017 12:10
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon fuel tank

The Mk2 Fiesta had two different sizes of fuel tank that could have been fitted 
(dependant on year of manufacture and model, from 1986 all models were fitted 
with the larger 8.8 gallon tank, prior to that they all (except the XR2) had a 
7.5 gallon tank (the XR2 had the 8.8 gallon one); is it possible that your car 
has the smaller tank fitted? and if so if you can get an 8.8 gallon one then 
your range would increase anyway.

On Monday, 27 March 2017 18:42:11 UTC+1, KaJa wrote:

Hi everyone, my saloon is well run in with 172000,  Seems low compared with the 
220K others have achieved.

However, the fuel tank has taken a beating and I wonder if I could fit the Mk 3 
tank which i believe is slightly larger?

Has anyone tried?


regards

Ken

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[Quantum Owners] Quantum saloon fuel tank

[Ken Needham]

Hi everyone, my saloon is well run in with 172000,  Seems low compared with the 
220K others have achieved.

However, the fuel tank has taken a beating and I wonder if I could fit the Mk 3 
tank which i believe is slightly larger?

Has anyone tried?


regards

Ken

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[Quantum Owners]

[Ken Needham]

Hi all,  After 6 years of daily use and 100,000 miles  on top of the 60K when I 
bought it, my 1990 Q has got me stuck! I stopped in a car park, went to get out 
and light smoke came from the dash. Argh! Disconnected battery as quick as I 
could and AA carried us home.So what went wrong? I found that the main power 
lead on the starter solenoid had the insulation burnt off by exhaust heat and 
the bare part had made contact with the solenoid enable contact but not enough 
to pull the solenoid in..Having sorted that, great it all checked out, couldn't 
see any burnt wiring looking at the fuse panel and steering column so started 
up ok.Just moved the car in the drive but now when I put the security pod on 
the contacts, I can hear the security relay chattering. The chattering stops 
after the time-out period. So since this relay unit is up high behind the dash 
and I cannot find any reference to device wiring, without removing the whole 
dash I'm stuck.As far as I know, the security device is a standard fitment, the 
contacts sit below  the screen heater and fog light switches on the right of 
the dash.Does anyone have any info or advise please?
Best regardsKen
  

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[Quantum Owners] Ceramic heater and fuel hoses

[Ken Needham]

Hi Guys I hope you had a great Christmas.I was catching up on emails and saw 
discussion about 12 volt ceramic heaters.Maplin do one, no timer for a few  
pounds.
Also, during a discussion with Spyder cars, they told me they are seeing many 
issues where rubber hoses have been used for fuel lines.Apparently thenew 
petrol composition including ethanol is disolving the rubber. They said the fix 
is to use only nitrile hoses. 
Hope that helps
Have a good new yearKen   

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Welding GAs

[Ken Needham]

Hi Jim,
I doubt it  Jim as the industry seems to play by strict rules. 
You may be able to find somewhere backstreet to fill CO2, fire extinguisher 
places have been known.
I saw recently that BOC have changed their way of operating to improve 
customer service!
They are starting a program where every bottle is barcoded so that you can 
prove ownership when it comes to refills.
I see this as a way of eliminating the  BOC bottles that are outside of a 
rental agreement.. The rollout has started and details are on thier website.

If it's C)2 you require and infrequently, your local landlord may lend you a 
bottle. It seems that gas sold through the drinks chain can only be sold to 
registered companies.. Ive tried justabout all ways without  sucess.
I have  even been refused CO2 refills of black fire extinguishers as they must 
be red now! Euro law! 

Ken


From: j...@quantums.info
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Welding  GAs
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 15:32:19 +0100







Me and my Dad have 2 BOC cylinders on one rental, somebody gave us the 
other cylinder.
Would one of these other companies refill the BOC cylinder without a rental 
or cylinder charge i wonder.
 
Jim
 


 

From: Ken Needham 
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 3:28 PM
To: quantumown...@googlegroups..com 

Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Welding  GAs
 

Hi Derek,
The Product range is called Albee. If you  do a 
web search on albee gas on google, theres all the info you need.
sizes, weld 
times etc.
My supplier in Reading is Harrington's. If you are near Reading, I 
can recommend them.
They have a useful website  for calor etc and the 
Albee products.:
regards
Ken



Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Welding  GAs
From: 
derek_cl...@lineone.net
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 13:49:16 +0100
To: 
quantumowners@googlegroups.com

Got the light sensitive mask straight away 
as I want to see what is happening and keep my sight.  It would be useful 
to have details of the Air Products bottles by the sound of them.   
 
Thanks to you and Jim for the tips.  Seems like much of welding is 
practicing the skill.  So more practice coming up!  
 
Cheers
 
Derek
 

 
 
 

 

On 22 Oct 2013, at 06:39, fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk 
wrote:

  Glad you are running now. The prices are 
  about norm. Air Products now do a bottle which you
Buy for about 130 pounds 
  as i remember and get refilled. Much better than BOC as no rental! Much 
  depends on location, more in north than south.
Standard bottles require a 
  large regulator but the Air Products bottles have one built in. I can get 
more 
  details if you are interested.
I expect you already know but having a light 
  sensitive mask is really worthwhile investment. NEVER strike the arc without 
  mask. Arc eyes is like rubbing sand in
and thats the least affect! 
  
Bevel the mating edges on 3 mm forming a V. You will get a stronger 
  joint.
Regards 
Ken
Sent from my HTC


  - Reply message -
From: Derek Clews derek_cl...@lineone.net
To: 
  quantumown...@googlegroups..com
Subject: 
  [Quantum Owners] Welding  GAs
Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 8:01 
  pm


Thanks Ken, 
   
  I am not sure why, but on the web there have been notes of the same 
  behaviour, it seemed to be impossible and then difficult to get gas to 
  flow.  Now its fine and controllable.  Why? - I am not sure, maybe 
  just a new valve with some plastic dust in the system?  Tried different 
  bottles as well and I now get the hiss and it is easier to weld!  
   
  Yep, got 2mm practice sheet and the first job is on 3 mm.  (when I 
  manufacture the bracket)  More practice ahead!
   
  Found this offer for disposable small bottles - Large capacity £15 each 
  buy three get the third half price.  CO2, Argon/CO2 And Argon all the 
  same price and you can mix them.
   
  http://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding/Mig_Tig_Gases1..html
   
  And this for Refillable 1300litre Argon/CO2, no rental.
   
  http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/welding_equipment/welding-gas
   
  Are these prices good in your experience?
   
  Derek
   
   
   
  
   
  
  On 21 Oct 2013, at 16:54, Ken Needham wrote:
  

hi Derek, 
I've used the 160 version 
for some years with small bottles and  large.
I found with the small 
bottle and regulator that screws on top of the bottle, if you power off the 
unit with gas connected, when you press the trigger you can hear the gas 
hiss at the nozzel as you turn up the regulator. 
It should sound clear but 
soft. If it's harsh you are probably wasting gas. 
With Practise gas lasts much 
longer and as Jim says one only welds for a few  seconds. Trouble is 
once the joys of success are found, there is so much to weld! then it's on 
to a large bottle and ball in sleeve type regulator.
Gas type does make a 
difference. Co2 is ok and cheapest but an Argon mix does give a bette
Try 
starting with metal about 2mm thick  as thin metal is more 
difficult.  
Less than 2mm

RE: [Quantum Owners] Welding GAs

[Ken Needham]

Hi Derek,
The Product range is called Albee. If you  do a web search on albee gas on 
google, theres all the info you need.
sizes, weld times etc.
My supplier in Reading is Harrington's. If you are near Reading, I can 
recommend them.
They have a useful website  for calor etc and the Albee products.:
regards
Ken

Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Welding  GAs
From: derek_cl...@lineone.net
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 13:49:16 +0100
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com

Got the light sensitive mask straight away as I want to see what is happening 
and keep my sight.  It would be useful to have details of the Air Products 
bottles by the sound of them.  
Thanks to you and Jim for the tips.  Seems like much of welding is practicing 
the skill.  So more practice coming up!  
Cheers
Derek




On 22 Oct 2013, at 06:39, fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:Glad you are running 
now. The prices are about norm. Air Products now do a bottle which you
Buy for about 130 pounds as i remember and get refilled. Much better than BOC 
as no rental! Much depends on location, more in north than south.
Standard bottles require a large regulator but the Air Products bottles have 
one built in. I can get more details if you are interested.
I expect you already know but having a light sensitive mask is really 
worthwhile investment. NEVER strike the arc without mask. Arc eyes is like 
rubbing sand in
and thats the least affect! 
Bevel the mating edges on 3 mm forming a V. You will get a stronger joint.
Regards 
Ken
Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Derek Clews derek_cl...@lineone.net
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Welding  GAs
Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 8:01 pm


Thanks Ken,
I am not sure why, but on the web there have been notes of the same behaviour, 
it seemed to be impossible and then difficult to get gas to flow.  Now its fine 
and controllable.  Why? - I am not sure, maybe just a new valve with some 
plastic dust in the system?  Tried different bottles as well and I now get the 
hiss and it is easier to weld!  
Yep, got 2mm practice sheet and the first job is on 3 mm.  (when I manufacture 
the bracket)  More practice ahead!
Found this offer for disposable small bottles - Large capacity £15 each buy 
three get the third half price.  CO2, Argon/CO2 And Argon all the same price 
and you can mix them.
http://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding/Mig_Tig_Gases1.html
And this for Refillable 1300litre Argon/CO2, no rental.
http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/welding_equipment/welding-gas
Are these prices good in your experience?
Derek



On 21 Oct 2013, at 16:54, Ken Needham wrote:hi Derek, 
I've used the 160 version for some years with small bottles and  large.
I found with the small bottle and regulator that screws on top of the bottle, 
if you power off the unit with gas connected, when you press the trigger you 
can hear the gas hiss at the nozzel as you turn up the regulator. 
It should sound clear but soft. If it's harsh you are probably wasting gas. 
With Practise gas lasts much longer and as Jim says one only welds for a few  
seconds. Trouble is once the joys of success are found, there is so much to 
weld! then it's on to a large bottle and ball in sleeve type regulator.
Gas type does make a difference. Co2 is ok and cheapest but an Argon mix does 
give a bette
Try starting with metal about 2mm thick  as thin metal is more difficult.  
Less than 2mm use 0.6 mm welding wire with the correct tip.
Play on scrap first, it vreally is worth practising.p

Good luck
Ken

 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Welding  GAs
 From: derek_cl...@lineone.net
 Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 23:12:45 +0100
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Thanks Jim.
 
 No flow meeter fitted just the basic kit. The small bottle regulator supplied 
 has markings on the top that are described in the manual as set 3 -4 for 2 to 
 3 litres per minute.. Seems I was getting nothing at first but now still not 
 enough. I'll look for a flow meter but gauges seem to be for large bottles on 
 the whole.
 
 Cheers 
 
 Derek
 
 
 On 20 Oct 2013, at 19:40, Jim Hearne wrote:
 
  You can run the bigger welders from a 13 amp plug, you might blow an 
  occasional fuse if welding on the maximum current but i can't remember the 
  last time mine went.
  Remember a 13amp fuse won't actually blow instantly at 13 amps, it will 
  take many seconds, they need 2 or 3 times there rated current to blow 
  straight away.
  
  I can hear a hiss of gas from mine in use (not over the sound of the weld 
  but while the trigger is pressed).
  A louder initial noise and then a quieter hiss.
  Is your flow meter just a pressure gauge calibrated in l/Min ?, if so 
  invest in one with the ball in the vertical tube, they are much more 
  accurate.
  Not that i can remember what mine is set to, more like 5 l/min i think.
  if you are welding outside with any wind you need to turn it up more.
  
  The times you quote would be for a continuous weld but in practice most 
  welds

RE: [Quantum Owners] Welding GAs

[Ken Needham]

hi Derek, 
I've used the 160 version for some years with small bottles and  large.
I found with the small bottle and regulator that screws on top of the bottle, 
if you power off the unit with gas connected, when you press the trigger you 
can hear the gas hiss at the nozzel as you turn up the regulator. 
It should sound clear but soft. If it's harsh you are probably wasting gas. 
With Practise gas lasts much longer and as Jim says one only welds for a few  
seconds. Trouble is once the joys of success are found, there is so much to 
weld! then it's on to a large bottle and ball in sleeve type regulator.
Gas type does make a difference. Co2 is ok and cheapest but an Argon mix does 
give a bette
Try starting with metal about 2mm thick  as thin metal is more difficult.  
Less than 2mm use 0.6 mm welding wire with the correct tip.
Play on scrap first, it vreally is worth practising.p

Good luck
Ken

 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Welding  GAs
 From: derek_cl...@lineone.net
 Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 23:12:45 +0100
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Thanks Jim.
 
 No flow meeter fitted just the basic kit.  The small bottle regulator 
 supplied has markings on the top that are described in the manual as set 3 -4 
 for 2 to 3 litres per minute.  Seems I was getting nothing at first but now 
 still not enough.  I'll look for a flow meter but gauges seem to be for large 
 bottles on the whole.
 
 Cheers 
 
 Derek
 
 
 On 20 Oct 2013, at 19:40, Jim Hearne wrote:
 
  You can run the bigger welders from a 13 amp plug, you might blow an 
  occasional fuse if welding on the maximum current but i can't remember the 
  last time mine went.
  Remember a 13amp fuse won't actually blow instantly at 13 amps, it will 
  take many seconds, they need 2 or 3 times there rated current to blow 
  straight away.
  
  I can hear a hiss of gas from mine in use (not over the sound of the weld 
  but while the trigger is pressed).
  A louder initial noise and then a quieter hiss.
  Is your flow meter just a pressure gauge calibrated in l/Min ?, if so 
  invest in one with the ball in the vertical tube, they are much more 
  accurate.
  Not that i can remember what mine is set to, more like 5 l/min i think.
  if you are welding outside with any wind you need to turn it up more.
  
  The times you quote would be for a continuous weld but in practice most 
  welds will only be a few seconds long if that.
  So it lasts a lot longer than you think.
  
  Jim
  
  
  
  On 20/10/2013 18:30, Derek Clews wrote:
  Hi, got the Clarke Mig 135TE welder in the end due to the power 
  requirements and this being the largest on a normal 13 Amp plug.  Been 
  giving it a try and now seem to be settling to it.  I found I had to turn 
  the power and speed down more than expected from the manual and had to 
  play around a lot with the gas to get it flowing.  Most practice welds 
  were gasless due to that issue!
  
  So just a question on gas for those who have the experience.  How much of 
  a sound should I get from the gas flowing.  I now get a 'fhut' sound when 
  pressing the trigger if pressurised.  But cannot hear a hiss as such.  Is 
  the 2-3 litres/min quoted in the manual such low flow for the handle? 
  (it's not a lot really I suppose)
  
  Also I have seen some posts on the web about the small bottles lasting for 
  only short periods like, 6 minutes of welding.  That would be 18 litres at 
  3 litres/min.  So does the rate have to be really high despite the 
  manufacturers figures or are they set up wrong.  You can get a small 
  bottle of 110 litres and at 3 litres/min that should last 36 mins by my 
  maths.  A bit different.  I appreciate there are bigger bottles out there 
  but they do need storage and it does depend on use.
  
  Any thoughts?
  
  Derek
  
  
  
  
  
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RE: [Quantum Owners] CVH Fuel Injection

[Ken Needham]

Thanks Jim, I had mis understood what I'de read elsewhere. I thought the Weber 
one was problematic but the Hitachi was fine, both being remote.
Manifold hunting starts here1
cheers
Ken

Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 19:44:43 +
From: j...@quantums.info
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] CVH Fuel Injection


  

  
  
The external idle valve were problematic and the the one bolted
directly to the manifold was Fords fixed version.

I would replace the inlet manifold with this version, they shouldn't
cost much on Ebay.



Jim



On 13/01/2013 19:37, Ken Needham wrote:



  
  
Hi Bill,

 I'm in the process of doing the same as you want to do but I do
have an almost complete engine.

I'de guess that a quick and simple way to ID an EFI is the hole
in the block on the Alternater side in front of the clutch for
the crank position sensor. The carb block did not have this hole
I believe.

I also believe that the EFI did not have a distributor but has
the EDIS system which uses the 4 outlet coil block which bolts
to the rear of the cylinder head.



I have found most of the parts including a wiring harness but I
am wrestling with the idle control valve.

I don't have one and as far as I can make out the manifold I
have requires an external valve. I just can't find a part number
to identify the correct valve. All the searching on the web
seems to only come up with valves that bolt directly onto the
manifold.

Any assistance would be welcome.



regards

Ken




  Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 10:07:19 -0800

  From: billjackso...@btinternet.com

  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com

  Subject: [Quantum Owners] CVH Fuel Injection

  

  Can someone please tell me how to identify
an EFi CVH engine (as intended for an Escort XR3i) if the
injectors and inlet manifolds are missing / absent ? I seem
to remember that the original Ford EFi system used a
slightly factory modified version of the engine, so if
fitting aftermarket fuel injection to a previously
carburated version of this marque extra parts were needed to
make the whole function. I want to fit an EFi system to my
CVH powered saloon so that I can run it on LPG and to this
end have looked for and  been offered an as new CVH EFi
engine (without the injection system, of course, but
complete in other ways). I simply want to know how to
satisfy myself that it is what the guy says it is, as I'm
not sure he knows one way or the other. 
  

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  thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals
  associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation
  of the above information shall have any liability to any
  person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage
  caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the
  instructions contained within this or related message(s).
  
  No virus
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  IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on
  an As Is basis, without warranty or the implication thereof.
  Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated
  with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the above
  information shall have any liability to any person or entity with
  respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be
  caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within

RE: [Quantum Owners] CVH Fuel Injection

[Ken Needham]

Hi Bill,
 I'm in the process of doing the same as you want to do but I do have an almost 
complete engine.
I'de guess that a quick and simple way to ID an EFI is the hole in the block on 
the Alternater side in front of the clutch for the crank position sensor. The 
carb block did not have this hole I believe.
I also believe that the EFI did not have a distributor but has the EDIS system 
which uses the 4 outlet coil block which bolts to the rear of the cylinder head.

I have found most of the parts including a wiring harness but I am wrestling 
with the idle control valve.
I don't have one and as far as I can make out the manifold I have requires an 
external valve. I just can't find a part number to identify the correct valve. 
All the searching on the web seems to only come up with valves that bolt 
directly onto the manifold.
Any assistance would be welcome.

regards
Ken

Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 10:07:19 -0800
From: billjackso...@btinternet.com
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Quantum Owners] CVH Fuel Injection

Can someone please tell me how to identify an EFi CVH engine (as intended for 
an Escort XR3i) if the injectors and inlet manifolds are missing / absent ? I 
seem to remember that the original Ford EFi system used a slightly factory 
modified version of the engine, so if fitting aftermarket fuel injection to a 
previously carburated version of this marque extra parts were needed to make 
the whole function. I want to fit an EFi system to my CVH powered saloon so 
that I can run it on LPG and to this end have looked for and  been offered an 
as new CVH EFi engine (without the injection system, of course, but complete 
in other ways). I simply want to know how to satisfy myself that it is what the 
guy says it is, as I'm not sure he knows one way or the other. 



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entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

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entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Servo

[Ken Needham]

Hi,
 Have you tried Classicar automotive? they refurb many brake parts for classics.
www.classicbrakes.co.uk 

tele number 01625 860925

regards Ken

Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 14:18:41 -0700
From: katpo...@googlemail.com
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Servo

My 2+2 has a Mondeo servo fitted by the previous owner. I can take 
measurements/ send pictures if you need them? Karl 



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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Question For The Electronics Whizzkids

[Ken Needham]

Bit of lateral thinking. If you simply want to have a flashing LED when the car 
is inactive and locked, how about a microswitch on the door lock? Or it could 
be a reed relay with a magnet attached to the activator. Very cheap very simple.
An electronic alternative would be to use a J/K flip flop circuit. These 
flip/flops are available as an integrated circuit but they run on 5 volts or 
one could make one up out of two transistors and a few resistors. Maplins sell 
the I/Cs. A check on the web will show the discrete components circuit required.

regards
Ken

Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Question For The Electronics Whizzkids
From: matt...@wastell.eu
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 19:22:37 +0100
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com

Jim showed me how to do that with two normal relays. Was in the context of 
something completely different to cars though (water pumping system). I assume 
two normal relays is not considered expensive. 
I'm sure halfords or maplins did a fake alarm kit for about a fiver. If they 
still do might be simply easier to get one of those?
M


On 5 Sep 2012, at 05:57, Alan alanmcgore2...@gmail.com wrote:

Could always use a latching relay, that will change state in response to a 
momentary signal and keep its state without being constantly powered. They're 
not that cheap though. 

On Monday, September 3, 2012 9:04:03 PM UTC+1, Andy Cowley (Q2-379) wrote:My 
2+2 has central locking fitted (no alarm)  doesn't have a warning LED. 

I've got a flashing LED that I was going to wire in so that it came on when the 
ignition was switched off, but am wondering whether I could connect it to the 
wiring via a switching relay so that it came on when the car was locked  went 
off when it was unlocked.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Andy




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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] MOT Update

[Ken Needham]

Well Martin, that's interesting. When my tester showed me his system, the only 
difference to your description was that the field did not come up blank, it 
showed what was on the previous certificate - Opel?!
The drop down was as you described but the system would not allow him to 
manually overwrite, he could only choose from the list.

I understand from a mate that recently set up a MOT centre that the hydraulic 
shaker plates enable the MOT to be done by a single person. Without the plates 
the DVLA require two people to be deployed for the test.
Glad it passed

Ken

From: susanandmar...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Quantum Owners] MOT Update
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 18:37:23 +0100








Went for MOT test today, and when the registration 
number was entered, no make was given in the entry box, the tester, however, 
had 
a list he could select from (Quantum not included, although an oddity beginning 
with Q- something like Quiqui??? maybe chinese) or he said he could enter what 
he liked. He entered Quantum as on the V5, and it was accepted. Strangely the 
computer automatically offered saloon as the body style - same as V5. The 
tester 
also put the model (again offered as blank) name as saloon, which is not on the 
V5, but with my agreement. It will be interesting to see whether the make and 
model appear next year when the registration number is entered.
Something I'd not seen at previous testing stations 
- the 4 post ramp had 'shaker plates' which when  activated by the tester 
pressing a button, burst into life, shaking the front wheels from side to side, 
movinng up and down and turning the steering etc, to highlight any ball joint 
or 
other play. It looked a good system, and liable to certainly do as intended! 

Oh, and it passed! The tester and his colleague 
were interested in the way QSC had styled the car with the original fiesta 
glass, and the astra GTE glass with the fiesta windscreen with more 
rake.
Martin.



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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] MOT Time

[Ken Needham]

My MOTs showed Quantum until a couple of years ago. I didn't notice at first 
but when I did I called the DVLA who said that I could get it changed next time 
I took it for an MOT.
I took it up with my MOT guy who showed me that the newsystem does not allow 
one to change the manufacturer other than from a prescibed list of main 
names.Obviously Quantum is not on the list.
I called the DVLA again, but this time I did find someone who understood. The 
told me to get the MOT place to FAX a copy of the MOT and the V5 to a number 
they gave me as the change can only be done by the DVLA. Next time the make 
will automatically come up as expected and will be fine so long as no one tries 
to change it which can be done by selecting from the prescribed list!
I did this and the garage faxed as requested with a covering letter.
That was in March, i've heard nothing since. Maybe next timeI get an MOT it 
will read correctlty again.

regards
Ken

From: susanandmar...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] MOT Time
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 16:40:41 +0100








Either As it's first (ie 3 yrs old) MOT I 
wanted it to be 'correct'. strangely they had never queried the previous 
rickman, although the MOT 'name' didn't match the V5, I know it was correctly 
registered as I had all the paperwork for registration, old MOT's 
etc.
On the V5 my saloon is shown as make Quantum, there 
is nothing in the model, and body style is Saloon, so I expect to just get 
Quantum shown on the MOT. I'd have thought when the tester put the reg no in 
the 
computer that it would come up with the correct description, but I'll find out 
on Friday.
Thanks all for the help,
Martin.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Jim Hearne 
  
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2012 2:57 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] MOT 
  Time
  

  
  
  Are you asking about make or model ?
   
  Jim
   
  
  
   
  
  From: Susan and Martin 
  Scott 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2012 2:44 PM
  To: quantumown...@googlegroups..com 
  
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] MOT Time
   
  
  My Saloon is now due it's first MOT - so what 
  should it show on the MOT certificate?
  I'm aware that kit cars can be shown as all sorts 
  of the MOT (though should be correct on the V5).
  My previous Rickman Ranger was described as Ford 
  Kit Car on the MOT, and could not be changed, my present Rickman Space Ranger 
  is Rickman/Ford on the MOT. 
  What do other members have on the 
  MOT??
  I'll take along the V5C, so hopefully there will 
  be no problem, but it seems there is only one chance to get it right, and it 
  can't be subsequently changed (unless I've been misinformed)
  Martin
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  message.
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[Quantum Owners] Speed sensor?

[Ken Needham]

Hi ,
 I am preparing to replace a carbed CVH 1600 with an EFI CVH1600. 
I have a wiring loom from an EFI but I note that the wiring diagram indicates 
there is a Speed sensor.
The Haynes manual is not clear but I perceive that there should be a speed 
sensor on the gearbox.
The gearbox I have is from the carb version and obviously has no sensor. Is it 
possible to add a speed sensor or is it actually required?
Also any idea exactly what numbers I should check for on the ECU to ensure 
compatability?
The main numbers on the ECU are ECU-1V, 91AB-12A650-FA, EFI-SD111 and 1AFA.
Any pointers appreciated.

regards
Ken
  

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Speed sensor?

[Ken Needham]

Many thanks Jim.
regards
Ken

Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 15:12:46 +0100
From: j...@quantums.info
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Speed sensor?


  

  
  
The speedo sensor just fits between the speedo cable and the
gearbox, it will fit your existing gearbox fine.

The same sensor was used on the Zetecs so you shouldn't have a
problem finding one.



91AB-12A650-FA is the important part number, thats an ecu from a Mk4
Escort or Orion 1.6 CVH EFI

If you find one ending in B or C etc then it's a later version of
the ECU but will be compatible.

The ecu code is 1AFA, thats the quickest part number to compare, on
the later ECU's these 4 digit codes spell words but on the CVH's
they didn't.



Jim







On 02/09/2012 12:23, Ken Needham wrote:



  
  
Hi ,

 I am preparing to replace a carbed CVH 1600 with an EFI
CVH1600. 

I have a wiring loom from an EFI but I note that the wiring
diagram indicates there is a Speed sensor.

The Haynes manual is not clear but I perceive that there should
be a speed sensor on the gearbox.

The gearbox I have is from the carb version and obviously has no
sensor. Is it possible to add a speed sensor or is it actually
required?

Also any idea exactly what numbers I should check for on the ECU
to ensure compatability?

The main numbers on the ECU are ECU-1V, 91AB-12A650-FA,
EFI-SD111 and 1AFA.

Any pointers appreciated.



regards

Ken

  
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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

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preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Captive nuts

[Ken Needham]

Hi , Check out Screwfix ,M8 x 30 mm  A4 grade are £3-41 for 10, A2 grade £2-35.

 You may want to consider stainless Rivnuts used with a large washer.

regards
Ken

 Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 02:57:27 -0700
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Captive nuts
 From: q...@avies.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Excellent, googling that does suggest that's the proper name for 'em.
 
 Downside : ebay price for M8 stainless is ~£15 for 5 =o(
 
 TonyV.
 
 
 
 
 
 On Aug 22, 10:51 am, Jim Hearne j...@quantums.info wrote:
  Quantum called them Big head nuts.
  I made my own using nuts welded to pieces of perforated stainless steel
  sheet.
  Also used a lot of studs made in a similar way, bolt welded to stainless
  sheet.
 
  Jim
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: TonyV
  Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 10:48 AM
  To: Quantum Owners Group
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Captive nuts
 
  As previously mentioned in another thread, I'll be mounting my saloon
  nosecone using stainless fastenings when the diesel conversion is
  complete.
 
  Does anybody know the name of the captive nuts which were used on the
  saloon?
 
  They look like a normal hex nut, which has been welded to a large
  penny-washer sized flange which has lots of holes for pop rivets to
  make the thing captive.
 
  I need some of these, but have absolutely no idea what to google/ebay
  for.
 
  Hopefully they aren't something home-made by the original builder (I
  could do likewise in stainless if necessary), but I'm sure I've seen
  them elsewhere.
 
  TonyV.
 
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  Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
  in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
  person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
  alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
  within this or related message(s).
 
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 IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
 basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
 the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Captive nuts

[Ken Needham]

Hi from screwfix catalogue, A4 grade part number for pack of 10 70066, A2 grade 
12185.
 These are Set Screws, thread all the length.
A2 grade bolts shortest are 50 mm part no 48085 for pack of 10 at £2-64.
They also do nuts and large stainless washers:-
M8 A2  nylock 19680 at £7.42 for pack of 100
M8 A4 nylock 67526 at £9.28 pack 100
plain hex A212636 at £7.42 pack 100
plain hex A4 36685 at £8.66 pack 100

A2 large washers 54830 at £2.10 pack of 10

They do several other head types.
Some of the above are not available off the shelf but would be next day 
delivery or pick up.
All orderable on their website

I can't remenber where I got the Rivnuts but it was from somewhere on ebay.

Hope that helps.

Ken

From: adrianjhopk...@btinternet.com
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Captive nuts
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:07:59 +0100








do you have a product code or pointer to the 
product?
 
AJ

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ken 
  Needham 
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2012 9:40 
  AM
  Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Captive 
  nuts
  

  Hi , Check out Screwfix ,M8 x 30 mm  A4 grade are £3-41 for 
  10, A2 grade £2-35.

 You may want to consider stainless Rivnuts 
  used with a large washer.

regards
Ken


  
   Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 02:57:27 
  -0700
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Captive nuts
 From: q...@avies.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
  
 Excellent, googling that does suggest that's the proper name for 
  'em.
 
 Downside : ebay price for M8 stainless is ~£15 for 5 
  =o(
 
 TonyV.
 
 
 
 
 
  
 On Aug 22, 10:51 am, Jim Hearne j...@quantums.info 
  wrote:
  Quantum called them Big head nuts.
  I made my 
  own using nuts welded to pieces of perforated stainless steel
  
  sheet.
  Also used a lot of studs made in a similar way, bolt 
  welded to stainless
  sheet.
 
  Jim
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  -Original Message-
  From: TonyV
 
   Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 10:48 AM
  To: Quantum Owners 
  Group
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Captive nuts
 
 
   As previously mentioned in another thread, I'll be mounting my 
  saloon
  nosecone using stainless fastenings when the diesel 
  conversion is
  complete.
 
  Does anybody 
  know the name of the captive nuts which were used on the
  
  saloon?
 
  They look like a normal hex nut, which has 
  been welded to a large
  penny-washer sized flange which has lots 
  of holes for pop rivets to
  make the thing captive.
 
  
  I need some of these, but have absolutely no idea what to 
  google/ebay
  for.
 
  Hopefully they aren't 
  something home-made by the original builder (I
  could do likewise 
  in stainless if necessary), but I'm sure I've seen
  them 
  elsewhere.
 
  TonyV.
 
  
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  IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is 
  provided on an As Is
  basis, without warranty or the implication 
  thereof. Neither the Quantum
  Owners Club nor the individuals 
  associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
  in the preparation of 
  the above information shall have any liability to any
  person or 
  entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
  
  alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions 
  contained
  within this or related message(s).
 
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 IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an 
  As Is basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the 
  Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners 
  Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability 
  to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
  alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
  within this or related message(s).

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Injection petrol tanks (again)

[Ken Needham]

I think the 3D print is highly feasible. All we need there is a set of CAD 
drawings to plug into a system. They are using this technology on the 
Bloodhound land speed record project.

There is a problem with fibreglass as the fuel leeches it's way along the 
fibres eventually causing structural failure. At least it did when fibreglass 
tanks were in vogue during the 60's and 70's.

Ken

 Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 16:04:00 -0700
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Injection petrol tanks (again)
 From: q...@avies.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Gary - that is a corker of an idea.
 Fuel tanks are sometimes made out of fibreglass so it must be fuel-
 proof - plenty of bikes have fibreglass tanks, for example.
 
 Might be possible to 3d print a mould, and use it to make a fibreglass
 swirl pot.
 
 But if a good tank is available off the shelf for £135, and is
 genuinely as good as OEM, that's a better option.
 
 TonyV.
 
 
 
 On Jul 20, 9:36 pm, Gary gary_brokensh...@blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
   From a friend,
  the material used in 3D printers will NOT be suitable for use near
  petrol. most use an ABS or an acrylic type of material which will
  just dissolve.
  It would be possible to get something done 3d printers are just
  becoming capable of printing a mould tool that could then be used to
  injection mould the swirl pot in a more suitable material. would be
  ideal for this sort of thing low volume complex part. i guess what would
  be a 8k+ mould could be done for sub 1k
 
  Qless.
 
  The information source can not undertake this work so please don't ask.
 
  On 20/07/2012 10:21, TonyV wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   If you do decide to get one of those then please report back on the
   swirl pot setup - I'd be interested in one myself at that price.
   Like Jim, I think they'll probably be pattern, but their claim that
   it's as good as OEM suggests otherwise.
 
   Just thinking with my fingers, but 3d printers are becoming relatively
   commonplace nowadays.
   I wonder whether the plastic they extrude would be fuel proof?
   If so, it would be relatively easy to get some swirl pots made,
   probably for not too much money.
   With a bit of clever design, it might even be possible to design one
   which would fit through one of the available orifices, meaning you
   don't have to butcher and re-weld the tank to fit it.
 
   TonyV.
 
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 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
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 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Injection petrol tanks (again)

[Ken Needham]

Hi,
 My CVH carb engine is in need of exchange and I would like to fit an EFI unit 
into my Saloon. Having read all the notes Jim has placed regarding the petrol 
feed requirement I will be in need of a new tank.
Do you know if these tanks fit the saloon?
If so where do I find one please?

cheers
Ken

 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Injection petrol tanks (again)
 From: derek_cl...@lineone.net
 Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 18:11:52 +0100
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 I can give you a link for the tanks - genuine Ford, I don't know but they are 
 described correctly and there are a few left.
 
 Sender had three wires, two provide variable output of up to 150 Ohm and 200 
 Ohm inn opposition to each other against the earth.  No numbers on the unit. 
 It is mounted to the piping and makes a single item with pipes in/out and 
 fuel pump. No recognisable numbers on it at all.  Just a sticker that is now 
 blank.  
 
 Anyone got a Mk3 Gauge.. ?
 
 Derek
 
 
 
 On 18 Jul 2012, at 08:37, Jim Hearne wrote:
 
  You've found a source of genuine Ford 1.4i tanks ?
  
  I did try a Mk3 Fiesta setup in a Mk2 tank, it was too high to fit in the 
  Mk2 tank.
  Any Ford part numbers on the sender, i can look them up.
  
  The Mk3 sender isn't compatible with the Mk2 gauge so yes, that could be 
  the problem.
  
  Jim
  
  
  -Original Message- From: Derek Clews
  Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 6:49 PM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Injection petrol tanks (again)
  
  That makes sense.
  
  I have found someone who can supply the Fiesta 1.4i tanks!  But it will not 
  be the same as mine then.  Is it worth changing to one of these?
  
  I have been 'removing the dents' as best I can and will paint and replace 
  this same one.  Inside it is nice and clean, so that is something.  I have 
  read other XR2 web sites and it seems the Mk3 system has been used by 
  others.  Though later I might prefer a standard 40 litre tank with an 
  external pump and swirl pot.  It's just a case of finding the space for 
  them.  The current arrangement is very neat with everything inside the 
  tank. (that is, until the bottom gets pushed in!)
  
  This swirl pot is just right to fit the standard tank profile, I assume it 
  was from a Mk3 tank along with the pump and sender.(?)
  
  That being the case does that mean the sender is not compatible with the Mk 
  2 gauge and that was the problem all along?
  
  Derek
  
  
  On 17 Jul 2012, at 14:55, Jim Hearne wrote:
  
  The Fiesta 1.4I tanks had an internal plastic swirl pot and then 2 pipe 
  (one big, one small) that came out through the front of the tank to an 
  external fuel pump.
  This fixed into a curved recess on the front of the tank thats there on 
  all Fiesta tanks even though it's only used on the EFI.
  The fiesta centre tank is the same except the swirl pot is steel and 
  doesn't work.
  
  Sounds like somebody has fitted a swirl pot with integral pump (maybe Mk3 
  Fiesta) into the Mk2 tank.
  I did look into this myself but didn't find a swirl pot low enough to 
  still let the tank fit up against the floor.
  
  Jim
  
  
  
  -Original Message- From: Derek Clews
  Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 2:21 PM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Injection petrol tanks (again)
  
  Jim,
  
  Would the Fiesta injection tanks by Ford (for the European 1.4i) have fuel 
  feed and return in the wall of the tank, not the top?  If so, where was 
  the fuel pump fitted?
  
  What was the arrangement of the old fiesta centre tanks?
  
  The one I have has the sender, fuel pump and electrics all on a large 
  circular plate that fits in the top of the tank and rests inside the 
  plastic swirl pot attached to the bottom of the tank.  Now it's cleaned up 
  it looks like the tank top has been cut and welded to get the pot inside 
  and possibly the larger socket for the plate.  Is it likely I have the 
  fiesta centre tank?  Or even a DIY one combining Fiesta and Escort with 
  the XR3i EFi set up grafted in?
  
  If it is the old Fiesta Centre one then some of my running problems may be 
  down to the rumoured bad swirl pot design.
  
  I have found a separate float!  It's available from Holden around £6. Just 
  as well as the old one is really crumbling as it's dried out.
  
  Derek
  
  
  
  On 16 Jul 2012, at 23:23, Derek Clews wrote:
  
  Jim, that's a thought.  This float looks like a fine foam rubber cylinder 
  and part of it has broken off, so I may be able to work around what is 
  left.  But I recall many being a sealed plastic cylinder and wondered 
  about getting a replacement.  But they don't seem to be sold separately 
  on the web.
  
  Derek
  
  
  
  On 16 Jul 2012, at 22:13, Jim Hearne wrote:
  
  If you can make up a suitable plug to go in the fuel filler hole, could 
  you pressurise the tank with a hose to pop the dented section back out 
  ?
  A airline might also 

RE: [Quantum Owners] Quantum Kit Cars ( The End )

[Ken Needham]

I'm sure behind these Emails, Eddie and the club committee have been working 
very hard to ensure the continuity of the marque. I can only thank all 
concerned and thank Eddie for all the support given.
I sincerely hope that Eddie  is now able to fruitfully progress with Dynamic 
mouldings and that we are able to give Mark and Eddie support for the future.
Best regards
Ken

 From: st...@h4-turbo.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners]  Quantum Kit Cars ( The End )
 Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 19:57:08 +0100
 
 I would like to be the first to thank Eddie for all his support and 
 enthusiasm for the Quantum marque over many many year and look forward to 
 his continued support.  I wish Eddie all the best with his Dynamic Mouldings 
 business, and hope that it is successful in the near future.
 
 I managed to have a chat with Mark Burley this morning, who is currently 
 overwhelmed with moulds and parts, but is planning to work with the club to 
 support all the models.  Congratulations to Mark and best wishes for the 
 future.
 
 Regards,
 Steve Kodz - QOC Chairman
 --
 www.h4-turbo.co.uk
 www.quantumowners.co.uk
 www.quantumcars.co.uk
 www.quantumkitcars.co.uk
 www.quantumheritage.co.uk
 
 On Thursday 19 Jul 2012, Eddie wrote:
  Hi Guys
  
  Sorry I have been a little distracted and have not had time to inform you
  all of latest developments.
  
  Mark Burley from MB Motorsport, who as many of you know, already owns
  Quantum Cars now owns everything that I had here in Bristol. This seems
  to be a good solution as the company is now complete again under one
  ownership. From this point forward all enquierys for stock and original
  panels should goto Mark Burley.
  
  Please all accept my appologies for not being able to keep Quantum Kit
  Cars. I do hope you all will appretiate that returning the company to a
  whole once more may be of benefit to all of us as a club and owners. I
  will continue to support the Quantums as before for accident damage etc.
  
  Thank you
  Eddie
 
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 IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
 basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
 the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] 3 times stronger?

[Ken Needham]

My recent experience in my saloon is an example of strength and safety.
As Mathew says, the safety aspect is about energy disipation and the nose cone 
certainly behaved as a crumple zone as I hit the back of a Santa Fe! The 
necessary repair simply constitued a replacement bolt on nose cone. There was 
not a hint of damage to anything rear of the nosecone other than the rad which 
had been given a nudge by a tow bar which slipped up the air intake.
 
The Strength of the shell saved the damage being projected any further than the 
nose cone.
The thickness of the glass is considerably thicker than that on the Lotus Elans 
as well but then they rely on a chassis for rigidity.
 
regards
Ken
 

 From: j...@quantums.info
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 3 times stronger?
 Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 10:06:22 +
 
 What about the 2+2 that was hit from the rear by a HGV, shot into the air 
 and hit 2 cars in a garage forecourt.
 The only injury to the occupants were cuts on there heads from the hood 
 catchs.
 
 Somebody recently rolled a saloon in Scotland as well.
 
 The difference between a Quantum and a Reliant Robin is the thickness of the 
 fibreglass, the Quantum is much much thicker.
 
 Jim
 
 
 --
 From: Steve Kodz st...@h4-turbo.co.uk
 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2012 5:13 PM
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 3 times stronger?
 
  I can't specifically back up the 3 times stronger figure, but does this
  help?
 
  www.h4-turbo.co.uk/Quantum/Saloon/Pics/Strong%20Stuff.jpg
 
  There are plenty of stories about big accidents in Quantums, all of those
  I've heard resulted in a better outcome compared to tin cans, however this
  might not be the car if 2 grp cars had an accident.
 
  Regards,
  Steve
  --
  www.h4-turbo.co.uk
  www.quantumowners.co.uk
  www.quantumcars.co.uk
  www.quantumkitcars.co.uk
  www.quantumheritage.co.uk
 
  On Thursday 22 Mar 2012, jin wrote:
  ok, so a bit random
  but i was talking to a passer by who was intrigued about what i was up
  to in the garage so i showed him the fruits of my labour, while
  impressed he did offer up the numpty response of ohh i wouldn’t want
  to go fast in a plastic car
  i tried in vain to convince him otherwise but im unsure if the penny
  dropped.
  now, ive heard it mentioned that fiberglass is weight for weight
  approx. 3 times stronger than steel, so since the 2+2 is roughly the
  same weight as the fiesta, does that make it 3 times stronger?
  Discuss…
 
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  liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or 
  damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the 
  instructions contained within this or related message(s).
 
  
 
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 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
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 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update stage 2 begins

[Ken Needham]

Hans, you could try RIVNUTs, They work well in fibreglass and are available in 
stainless as well as ally regardsKen
  From: hansdefau...@hetnet.nl
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update stage 2 begins
 Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 14:36:30 +0100
 
 I used a soda blaster like this - all rust gone
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Lb-Portable-Soda-Blaster-/320849370056?pt=Sanders_Sandblastershash=item4ab41cdbc8
 
 hans
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: jin jinmys...@btinternet.com
 To: Quantum Owners Group quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2012 8:19 PM
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update stage 2 begins
 
 
 today's jobs
 
 started to clean up the chassis at the rear,
 unbolted the steering rack as the bolts ans washers looked a bit
 tatty, lo and behold my worst suspicions were confirmed in that the
 one vertical mounting tube was half full of water! probably since
 there is nothing actually sealing the interior to the elements but
 nothing actually allowing any accumulating water to leave either,
 worryingly I've not got any aspect of the car wet for 4 months so god
 knows how long this has been sitting there it certianly didnt taste
 too nice when i blew it out with conpressed air, i drained the rest by
 drilling the base and flushing with solvent, I've tapped the hole M6
 to plug it once I've worked out a good way to seal the tube and bolt
 holes
 
 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012035.jpg
 
 then it was just a case of stripping the rust and paint back, it was
 concerning as to how easy the original paint flaked off with just a
 rudimentary scrub with a hand held wire brush, its a wonder its
 survived this long, but the progress has been good
 
 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012039.jpg
 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012040.jpg
 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012041.jpg
 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012042.jpg
 
 the bulk of the rust removal was done with one of these
 
 http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-cleaning-tools/stripping-disc-for-angle-grinder.html
 
 really effective cuts and removes rust really well, i even tested it
 on my finger just to check!
 
 as you can see its pitted quite a bit so ill rely on the acid to
 remove the last bits of rust from them but its all going to plan,
 looks soo shiny its gonna be a shame to paint it
 
 quick question, can anybody tell me exactly how to space the steering
 rack so i can make proper spacers? a sensible person would have
 measured it before unbolting it, i thought it would be obvious but it
 looks like it would need spacing both sides to be even?
 
 On Dec 30 2011, 2:40 pm, jin jinmys...@btinternet.com wrote:
  update
 
  ive removed the pop rivets and P clips that held the brake pipes on,
 
  http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02331.jpg
 
  they didn't fit too well and the pop rivets didn't go through the
  bulkhead so only served to swell out the fiberglass and let water and
  dirt in, evidenced by the dirt that had crept within the hole around
  the rivet, i chamferd the holes to remove the contaminated fiberglass
  and gelcoted from the outside with a thin layer
 
  http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02333.jpg
 
  then filled the rear with slow set araldite to seal the join and
  hopefully put a bit more strength back in
 
  http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02336.jpg
 
  the tape is just to stop it running out and keep it smooth
 
  cut out the first hole for my cable glands, i found a cone step drill
  very handy for enlarging holes (I'm using one of my extra? servo mount
  holes that were drilled but unused?) since they locate and don't
  wander about ripping the gel coat like normal twist drills, only thing
  to do is drill both sides sins the steps are shallow,
 
  http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02332.jpg
 
  tapped it out to the right size
 
  and sealed the fiberglass with araldite resin and wound the gland in
 
  http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02335.jpg
 
  then gave a wipe round the inside with more resin just to be sure,
  these should be very water proof now, this one will be for the wiper
  motor
 
  as for the brake pipes, I'm not too sure how I'm going to secure the P
  clips, I'm not going to use pop rivets fore sure, i may drill a few
  holes and tap a thread then wind in a stainless stud with araldite to
  seal unless anyone knows a batter way?
 
  cheers for any info
 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update

[Ken Needham]

Jim's got the best answer but there are other ways to survive.  Ski thermals 
are cheap right now and are very efficient. Trouble with garages is that they 
are full of metal, a thermal mass that will get very cold and hold it for a 
long time. I use  one of the small propane gas fan heaters for about 20 mins. 
The 15 Kw output gets the garage up to  12 - 15 degrees. The humidity goes 
above 80% but I then use just an electric fan heater, 2Kw. within half an hour 
the humidifier has bought the humidity down to abot 70% and the temperature 
stays around 13 for the rest of the day Ken
  Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 21:39:00 +
 From: gary_brokensh...@blueyonder.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update
 
 Oi ! I live in Plymouth, Devon and the inlaws are in hampshire. It is 
 colder and snowier where you are!
 
 Qless getting off the band wagon.
 
 On 08/02/2012 12:51, Andy Cowley (Q2-379) wrote:
  Apologies for getting all Monty Python, but here
  goes..
 
  Single garage --- luxury
 
  Yeasterday I was outside rubbing down some body filler dressed in
  jeans, t-shirt, hoodie (with hood up), boiler suit, fleece jacket,
  woollen hat  gloves.
 
  Looked a complete plonker, but was nice  warm
 
  Andy C
 
  On Feb 8, 12:29 pm, Matthew Wastellmatt...@wastell.eu  wrote:
  What?
 
  On 8 Feb 2012, at 06:32, jinjinmys...@btinternet.com  wrote:
 
 
 
  oh what i'd give for a double garage 
  On Feb 7, 10:57 pm, jon jacksonjon.jacks...@ntlworld.com  wrote:
  Oh reading about you're garage heating woes reminded me of when I lived 
  in
  Totnes Devon, my garage was soaking wet from Oct to April and was the 
  devil
  to work in during winter because of it, but now we moved back to 
  Hampshire
  in 2004 and I enjoy an insulated double garage with a little workshop
  attached and the misery of a damp Devon winter is not a place I wish for
  again.
  Good luck with the insulating.
  Cheers Jon RST 2+2.
  - Original Message -
  From: jinjinmys...@btinternet.com
  To: Quantum Owners Groupquantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 3:16 PM
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update
  yep mines pre fab concrete all right, its a nightmare to drill into
  also,
  they do have handy indents on each panel just asking for some
  insulation so ill be doing that soon
  i mad my own draught excluders for the main door out of an old long
  flappy strips use to draft proof warehouse doors, im quite proud of
  that one :-)
  On Feb 7, 8:25 am, Jim Hearnej...@quantums.info  wrote:
  I fully insulated my 21' square wooden garage and it only takes one 3kW
  heater to keep it warm, it's on a thermostat to keep the temperature to
  around 10 C through the winter, stops things going rusty.
  Insulation is also a bonus in the summer, keeps the garage nice and 
  cool.
  Pre fab Concrete garages are a bit of a pain to insulate, on my brothers
  one we ended up using hard foam insulation and holding it up with sheets
  of plywood on the inside.
  Don't forget to put seals around the doors as well.
  Jim
  On 07/02/2012 06:20, jin wrote:
  thats a good idea mate, ill take a look
  the garage is insulated slightly, the roof is done and the main door,
  but not the sides, ill be doing them one day hopfully, once ive got
  the big lump of fiberglass in the middle out the way first ;-)
  On Feb 6, 10:41 pm, Matthew Wastellmatt...@wastell.eu  wrote:
  Any chance of insulating the garage? Insulations a much better bet 
  than
  more/different heaters.
  When I used to do a lot of outside work on muddy land rovers in the
  winter I
  would wear an all in one motorcycle thermal suit (under layer) and 
  then
  normal clothes on top and a boiler suit. Seems to work well (just 
  don't
  lie in a puddle!). Thermal suits can be picked up for 10- 20 from
  motorcycle places online.
  Matthew
  -Original Message-
  From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  [mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com]
  On Behalf Of jin
  Sent: 06 February 2012 20:03
  To: Quantum Owners Group
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update
  the wiring and the plug were about the only things that were warm ive
  got to
  get this sorted, i hate being cold but im having real trouble getting
  the
  garage warm enough
  if only i could park the car in the house.
  On Feb 6, 7:02 pm, Jim Hearnej...@quantums.info  wrote:
  Eek, you were taking 25 amps down a 13 amp extension lead, i bet the
  wiring and the plug were getting a bit warm !
  Jim
  On 05/02/2012 16:48, jin wrote:
  cheers guys
  yep i knew at the time i was being optemistic by switching off the
  radio and phone, but it was so cold outside i opted for the
  warmth, with breaks back into the house to replace the fuse (13A)
  i will be looking into getting a proper feed into the garage soon,
  in the meantime ill just have to put 2 pairs of overalls on ;-)
  On Feb 5, 12:05 

[Quantum Owners] Saloon front dampers

[Ken Needham]

Hi 
 It would seem that I need to replace the front dampers/legs on my saloon.
Having found there is a large selection of units available, is there any advice 
as to best fit?
 
The car has a 1600 CVH unit chassis no 023.
I seem to recall there being some mails regarding the top mounts. Is there 
something I should be aware of?
 
As far as I'm aware the springs are as originally fitted back in 1990 when it 
was built.
 
best regards
Ken   

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Saloon front dampers

[Ken Needham]

Thanks Jim I'll check it out.
 
Ken
 



From: j...@quantums.info
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon front dampers
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 13:35:11 +





I would guess that since it's only chassis number 023 that it might well be the 
earlier version that used Mk1 Fiesta parts.
The easy way to tell is if there are 2 bolts through the wing each side of the 
shock top mount.
 
Jim
 


From: Ken Needham 
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 1:23 PM
To: quantumown...@googlegroups..com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Saloon front dampers


Hi 
 It would seem that I need to replace the front dampers/legs on my saloon.
Having found there is a large selection of units available, is there any advice 
as to best fit?
 
The car has a 1600 CVH unit chassis no 023.
I seem to recall there being some mails regarding the top mounts. Is there 
something I should be aware of?
 
As far as I'm aware the springs are as originally fitted back in 1990 when it 
was built.
 
best regards
Ken

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Tow bar for coupe..

[Ken Needham]

George, I have picked up the towbar, will phone friday. Ken
  Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 12:55:45 -0800
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Tow bar for coupe..
 From: pearcegeor...@hotmail.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Hi Ken
 
 Thank you for doing that your a gent..
 
 On Jan 11, 12:13 pm, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
  Hi Kelvin, I am going over to George's in kent to pick up some parts next 
  weekend. I saw that he is having a towbar off you. I work in Winchester so 
  I could help out and pick it up from you in Salisbury and save you 
  posting.I have spoken to George today and I expect he'll contact you 
  tonight.I could pick up thursday or friday evening. I'm contactable on 
  07535656507. If you can let me have a phone number I'll call and make 
  arrangements. regardsKen
 
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 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
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 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Tow bar for coupe..

[Ken Needham]

Hi Kelvin, I am going over to George's in kent to pick up some parts next 
weekend. I saw that he is having a towbar off you. I work in Winchester so I 
could help out and pick it up from you in Salisbury and save you posting.I have 
spoken to George today and I expect he'll contact you tonight.I could pick up 
thursday or friday evening. I'm contactable on 07535656507. If you can let me 
have a phone number I'll call and make arrangements. regardsKen 
  

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone

[Ken Needham]

Dave,nothing will be thrown away. I hope to be able to start next week.  
i'll let you know how things pan out. cheersKen 
  Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 10:10:54 -0800
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone
 From: dave_the_sub...@hotmail.com
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Guys,
 
 If, when you are finished, you have any spare bits for the headlight
 lid mechanism, I'd be interested in taking them off your hands.
 
 My latest Coupe has had it all removed and, if I ever rebuild it, it
 would be nice to reinstate them. Have 2 spare lids for a 2+2, but
 haven't checked to see if they fit yet. Could probably make the other
 bits, but would be easier to buy some.
 
 Just don't throw anything away, please!
 
 Dave.
 
 On Jan 6, 4:21 pm, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
  Hi George,
   My email is ken.need...@gmx.co.uk.
 
  Ill give you a call
  Many thanks
 
  Ken
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 08:17:29 -0800
   Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone
   From: pearcegeor...@hotmail.co.uk
   To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
   Hi Ken
 
   Its black gel coat I think there maybe some stress marks on it if the
   weathers good I can take it off the car tomorrow and take pics so you
   can have a look...
   My mob is 07932228494 if you want call me or send me your email
   address so I can send picks..
 
   George..
 
   On Jan 6, 2:24 pm, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
Hi George,
 Hopefully I would like to get fixing in a week or so. Is it black gel 
coat or paint?
 I'm in Reading so Kent is OK for me.
 Thanks for your reply.
Ken
 
 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 06:18:43 -0800
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone
 From: pearcegeor...@hotmail.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Hi Ken how quick do you need one will have a spare one in a short
 while.
 Its black and in kent..
 
 On Jan 6, 11:07 am, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
  Hi,
   Ive managed to mess up the front end with an entanglement with the 
  towbar and bumper of a Santa Fe!
   Are there any nose cones available anywhere?
 
  hopeful
  Ken
 
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 As Is basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither 
 the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the 
 Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information 
 shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to 
 liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or 
 indirectly by the instructions contained within this or related 
 message(s).
 
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   Is basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the 
   Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum 
   Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any 
   liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or 
   damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the 
   instructions contained within this or related message(s).
 
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 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
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 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  

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[Quantum Owners] Quantum saloon nose cone

[Ken Needham]

Hi, 
 Ive managed to mess up the front end with an entanglement with the towbar and 
bumper of a Santa Fe!
 Are there any nose cones available anywhere?
 
hopeful
Ken   

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone

[Ken Needham]

Hi George,
 Hopefully I would like to get fixing in a week or so. Is it black gel coat or 
paint?
 I'm in Reading so Kent is OK for me.
 Thanks for your reply.
Ken
 

 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 06:18:43 -0800
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone
 From: pearcegeor...@hotmail.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Hi Ken how quick do you need one will have a spare one in a short
 while.
 Its black and in kent..
 
 On Jan 6, 11:07 am, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
  Hi,
   Ive managed to mess up the front end with an entanglement with the towbar 
  and bumper of a Santa Fe!
   Are there any nose cones available anywhere?
 
  hopeful
  Ken
 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone

[Ken Needham]

Hi George,
 My email is ken.need...@gmx.co.uk.
 
Ill give you a call
Many thanks
 
Ken
 

 Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 08:17:29 -0800
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone
 From: pearcegeor...@hotmail.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Hi Ken
 
 Its black gel coat I think there maybe some stress marks on it if the
 weathers good I can take it off the car tomorrow and take pics so you
 can have a look...
 My mob is 07932228494 if you want call me or send me your email
 address so I can send picks..
 
 George..
 
 On Jan 6, 2:24 pm, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
  Hi George,
   Hopefully I would like to get fixing in a week or so. Is it black gel coat 
  or paint?
   I'm in Reading so Kent is OK for me.
   Thanks for your reply.
  Ken
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 06:18:43 -0800
   Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum saloon nose cone
   From: pearcegeor...@hotmail.co.uk
   To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
   Hi Ken how quick do you need one will have a spare one in a short
   while.
   Its black and in kent..
 
   On Jan 6, 11:07 am, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
Hi,
 Ive managed to mess up the front end with an entanglement with the 
towbar and bumper of a Santa Fe!
 Are there any nose cones available anywhere?
 
hopeful
Ken
 
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 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: xron headlights

[Ken Needham]

Hi, Neil and Mathew have said all the important stuff but having kicked off a 
similar discussion some time ago, Ive been doing some testing of the new 
extra efficient normal bulbs which claim to use Xenon rather than other gases. 
These are onsale everywhere now and I believe are totally legal. The power 
rating is still 55/ 60 watts for the H4 and 55 for the H1. Some are being 
advertised as 50% + light output and others up to 90%+ light output.Certainly, 
these bulbs are better in a standard headlamp unit rather than the lesser 
forms.They cost up to £20 each but are available for more like £30 a pair of 
H4. Phillips Osram, Halfords all do them. I have noticed some statements about 
these bulbs having a coating which filters light that can affect the plastic 
covers used on modern headlamp assemblies.I'm guessing that there has been a 
problem at some stage where similar bulbs have caused the plastic to go opaque. 
When I tried the HID Xenons in the standard Fiesta Mk 2 headlamp shell (35 watt 
H4 bulbs) they were very bright but the scatter particularly on dipped beam was 
not good. The actual mechanics of the HID bulbs are questionable as H4 styles. 
Some have a HID for dipped beam and normal for main but there are several 
variations. All of the aftermarket HID sellers that I have found all put in a 
clause saying off road use only somewhere in the small print. I was  pointed to 
the Government website where there are staements about aftermarket HID use. I 
have also tried an H1 version in an Alfa with projector lenses. This 
combination gives an extremley sharp cutoff and obviously a very bright light. 
I understand from a MOT  tester that the guidance on colour is that any blue 
forward lighting is a MOT fail. It's interprative and 6000 kelvin may cause 
discussion. Above that it is almost certain to be considered too blue. Ken 
Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:57:36 -0800
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: xron headlights
 From: nailed.barna...@gmail.com
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Indeed; I forgot to mention this. There's an odd optical effect that
 the bluer light *looks* brighter but the eye is less sensitive to blue
 light. 4300K isn't much bluer than the standard 2700K incandescent or
 3-3500K halogen lamps, but it is a noticeable difference.
 
 Neil
 
 On Dec 27, 3:26 pm, Matthew Wastell matt...@wastell.eu wrote:
  K is for kelvin. This is the colour temp of the light. Nothing to do with 
  power as such.
 
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 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] Front Suspension Bushes

[Ken Needham]

Could this problem be similar to one frequently discussed in Elan forums?
When the bushes are refitted and no weight is on the suspension, if the bolts 
through the bushes are fully tighened, the centre sleeve gets clamped. This 
causes the rubber to be considerably tensioned when the weight of the car takes 
the suspension to normal ride height when the jack is removed!  
Leaving the bolts loose until the suspension is at normal ride height, then 
tightened makes a dramatic change in bush life.
regards
Ken  
 


Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 23:13:10 +
From: gary_brokensh...@blueyonder.co.uk
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Front Suspension Bushes


I put poly ones on ours lasted years till i sold the car. firmed up the 
handling but didn't kill the ride.
I found it easiest to fit these by dropping the wishbone carriers to get the 
bolts in easier the manipulate the assembly in to place.

Gary 
Qless


On 05/02/2011 22:37, Jim Hearne wrote: 
If you use non Ford suspension arms or bushes this is about the normal life 
i've found on Fiestas, Mondeos etc.
Ford parts last a lot longer but of course cost more.
Some pattern parts don't even last a year so don't buy the cheapest ones.
The price difference between bushes only and complete arms with new bushes and 
balljoints isn't that much so i don't bother changing bushes nowadays, just 
complete arms.

Jim


On 04/02/2011 17:01, Hamish Freeman wrote: 



My H4 failed its MOT last week on front lower rear suspension bushes – again!  
The rubber bond between the bush and its collar breaks away on one side and 
provides potential for excessive movement. In 13 years on the road this must be 
the fourth time that I have had to carry out this job, to the extent that I 
discovered that it is cheaper to buy a suspension bush kit of both bushes from 
the local Partco stockist than buying a single bush from the Great Founder and 
I now keep one set in hand - just in case.  The annoying issue this time was 
that in “The Great Tidy-Up” last year when my workshop was rewired, the 
assembly drifts and spacers that I had previously made for removing and 
replacing the bushes disappeared – back to sockets as the next best option.  
 
Does anyone else suffer from this problem?
 
Hamish




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RE: [Quantum Owners] Batteries

[Ken Needham]

Trickle charging is really essential  and the newer the cars the more important 
as the residual drain can be quite significant due to the electronics.
I have purchsed the auto chargers available at times from Lidl and Aldi at 
around £13 which seem excellent value. They charge at 3.5 amps max and kick 
into trickle mode once fully charged. similar looking devices are available in 
Halfords and other outlets but cost considerably more
They do 6 or 12 volt and have bike, car and cold modes
 
 Ken


Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 20:09:11 +
From: russ...@quantum54.freeserve.co.uk
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Batteries


I have had my motorbike battery on a trickle charger from new, they cost 
pennies to run and are definately worth the investment. The battery is
now 11 years old and still starts the bike no problems.

Russell

On 27/01/2011 18:56, Jim Hearne wrote: 
I get the 4 year warranty batterys but i used to get them replaced under 
warranty every spring, they would never survive the winter when the 2+2 was off 
the road.
I would always forget to charge the battery enough, they would get over 
discharged and die.
Then I bought a trickle charger about 3 years ago and still have the same 
battery.

Jim


On 25/01/2011 16:25, Ken Needham wrote: 


I guess it does Jim.
I had checked around locally and found that around £50 was the best I could 
find with a 4 year warranty.
I do not regard the warranty so much of a guarantee but more indicative of the 
battery technology. Most 4 year products seem to be calcium technology which 
indeed the brand I reference claims to be.
In my experience, batteries are extremely reliable if treated properly and if 
one does die, Murphy takes over and that will be the one receipt that has been 
lost. 
 
best regards
Ken
 


From: fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Batteries
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 12:31:58 +




 Gents,
 I recently required a new battery and bought one through ebay from:
http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/absbatteries/
They  regularly advertise various batteries. The 063 is £35 delivered
4 yr warranty 
It was delivered next day to Reading and well packed. I've had it installed for 
6 weeks and time will tell. So far it seems a very good deal.
Spec :- 



Length (Millimeters)

212


Width

175

Height

175







Gross Weight in Kilogrammes

12







Terminal Layout









Cold Cranking Amps 

380


Voltage 

12


Ampere Hours
44

 
regards
Ken
 

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s). 


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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] Website

[Ken Needham]

Hi, I too cannot  get to find out what the login details are. I guess it's a 
really secure site!
 
regards
Ken
 
 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2011 10:42:09 +
 From: t...@tsar.demon.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Website
 
 Hello
 
 I see in the Quantum Mechanics the website take-up is poor.
 Not surprising as I, for one, don't know how to log in - don't know any 
 password details. Having asked the site to send some via the login 
 section not much happens, not even a raspberry!
 
 Help needed, many thanks.
 
 Tony
 
 
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 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] HIDs

[Ken Needham]

Totally agree with your comments Mathew regarding prosecution and Insurance.
There is a need to play safe but when there are suppliers and articles 
suggesting legality things do get confusing!
 A similar situation exists with cycle lighting although here it is the use of 
flashing LEDs that has been the issue. These were totally illegal until the law 
was changed in 2009. Now they are legal so long as the light emmission is more 
than 4 Candelas. But how many cyclists are actually legal at night?
The Cyclist Touring Club of GB suggest that should any illegality be found with 
lighting or reflectors after an accident may be found as contributory 
negligence. 
 
Why use HIDs? From the driver's view the light is very much better than normal 
bulbs. Obviously though they must not cause glare to oncoming traffic and have 
the correct beam pattern.
Reliability is another factor, the number of one eyed monsters driving around 
at the moment is appauling. I understand that several modern cars have headlamp 
bulbs so inaccessible that it is a workshop job to get them changed!
 
I intend to try the new Xenon bulbs shortly but simply put there is a real need 
to improve the lighting over the standard Fiesta units. Any suggestions would 
be welcome.
 
My first year of owning a Quantum has been a great joy and this forum is really 
interesting.
 
I certainly wish Eddie all the best for the forthcoming projects and everyone a 
joyous Xmas 
 
 Ken


CC: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
From: matt...@wastell.eu
Subject: [Quantum Owners] HIDs
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 18:13:12 +
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com


 Would one be prosecuted? 
Potentially yes. It's only likely to happen if you cause an accident though. 


 How would insurers respond? 
If the modification could have led to the accident they may refuse to pay.   
Let's say the guy coming the other way crosses the white line and you both 
loose a wing mirror. Assuming there is proof, the other guy will be liable. Now 
he claims your illegal lights caused him to be blinded. Now who is liable?  He 
claims that his neck hurts, an ambulance arrives, they then call the police as 
it's an RTA.   It's not likely much would happen unless there was a death, if 
there was then you are potentially looking to go to prison. 


Why do people think HIDs are so much better?  I can't think anyone is 
interested in the energy saving. If you like the light colour temperature why 
not just buy 6k h4 bulbs?


M






On 23 Dec 2010, at 15:56, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:


Would one be prosecuted? How would insurers respond? 

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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum Kit Cars is born.

[Ken Needham]

There does seem to be different interpretations.
This link from DoT offers a considered opinion but it is somewhat dated.(1996)

http://www.dft.gov.uk/pgr/roadsafety/drs/hidheadlamps 
I'm no lawyer but have done considerable work regarding type approval in the 
telecom industry in Europe.
Type approval is granted after proof of a design meeting technical 
specifications and being manufactured in an enviroment where production ensures 
continued compliance to those specifications. This is fine for mass production 
but the aftermarket cannot control how a device may be used and therefore 
cannot guarentee continued compliance.
 
A device may technically meet all the specifications required to be legal but 
proving it if challenged could be extremely expensive.
I feel both the DoT and DVLA are offerring suggestions, should one wish to go 
the aftermarket path, how to ensure compliance without special testing.
 
I suspect the same issues would relate to LED rear bulb replacements. I have 
yet to see any manufacturer of LED replacements for incandescent bulbs claim 
they are road legal!
 
Would one be prosecuted? How would insurers respond? 
 
I also note that the document states Also the dipped beam must stay on with 
the main beam. Is this really correct?
 
Ken
 Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 21:17:44 +
 From: j...@quantums. To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum Kit Cars is born. 
 Hmm, that sounds fairly definate.
 I will have to let PPC magazine know they are wrong.
 
 Jim
 
 
 On 22/12/2010 09:49, Matthew Wastell wrote:
  How about a statement from DVLA:
  It is not acceptable to convert a headlight approved for use with a
  halogen filament bulb to use a Xenon (HID) gas discharge bulb. The
  only acceptable way of converting is to replace the headlight for one
  approved for gas discharge bulbs. Such headlamps will be approved to
  UNECE Regulation 98 and 'E' marked. If headlamps approved to UNECE
  Regulation 98 are retro-fitted, they must be self-levelling (as part
  of the headlamp system) or via self-levelling suspension and headlamp
  washers must be installed. Under the Road Traffic Act 1988, it is an
  offence to fit or use parts which are not legal
 
  There's a nice video here:
  http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/videos/featuresvideos/204742/xenon_test.html
 
  The statement from DVLA is clear. HID kits are not allowed in a
  headlight not designed for HID bulbs. When the car was made does not
  appear to make any difference.
 
  M
 
 
 
  On Dec 21, 9:48 pm, Jim Hearnej...@quantums.info wrote:
  Apparently all the rules for HID lights only apply to newly
  manufactured cars, nothing mentions retrofitted HID lights.
  On production cars they need to be self levelling and fitted with washers..
 
  Jim
 
  On 21/12/2010 20:00, Matthew Wastell wrote:
 
 
 
  Wouldn't mind, but they are basically illegal as retrofits in uk. I think 
  they need an auto self levelling mech and possibly different lens.
  Regular bulbs would be fine if we werent being blinded by modern car 
  lights coming the other way then quickly trying to see again. Lucky for 
  them they have auto dimming mirrors and other such fancy any dazzle 
  stuff, pain in the whatnot for low sports cars, I don't envy all year 
  round quantum drivers!
  M
  On 19 Dec 2010, at 22:34, hansdefauweshansdefau...@hetnet.nl wrote:
  Has anybody tried the HID Xenon Kit yet?
  2 versions:
  H4 (4300K, 6000K, 8000K, 1K en 12000K)
  H4 Bi-Xenon 6000K, 8000K
  3800 lumen
  200meter Xeon vs 90meter halogeen.
  Hans
  - Original Message - From: John 
  Woodwardjohn.woodwar...@gmail..com
  To: Quantum Owners Groupquantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 10:45 PM
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum Kit Cars is born.
  Like Russell, I noticed the difference from the Saloon to the 2+2,
  finished up buying new headlight units Osram Nightbreaker bulbs for
  the 2+2, great improvement, but still not as good as the Saloon.
  John
  On Dec 19, 8:28 pm, hansdefauweshansdefau...@hetnet.nl wrote:
  No
  Saloom is MK1 fiesta
  2+2 is MK2 fiesta
  both H4
  Hans
  - Original Message -
  From: Matthew Wastellmatt...@wastell.eu
  To:quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 9:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Quantum Kit Cars is born.
  I've only looked at one saloon however the lights were set further 
  forward
  which would make a difference.
  Are the units the same?
  M
  On 19 Dec 2010, at 20:20, Russell Willcox
  russ...@quantum54.freeserve.co.uk wrote:
  The thing I have never understood owning both a 2+2 and a saloon is, 
  why
  are the lights better on the saloon??
  Russell
  On 19/12/2010 19:45, Matthew Wastell wrote:
  I'd say the problem with pop down is the tunnel vision it gives the 
  light
  so that it tends not to scatter closely in front of the car. A few
  complain with 2+2 who live in the sticks. I've hot around it on mine.
  Flush units 

RE: [Quantum Owners] Brake master and servo Help !

[Ken Needham]

Hi, Have you tried Classicar automotive. They do loads of brake parts for 
mature cars.
www.classicbrakes.co.uk
01625 860910.
They are  at unit A Alderley road Cheldford Cheshire SK11 9AP.
 
regards
Ken
 
 Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:43:50 -0700
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Brake master and servo Help !
 From: erus...@blueyonder.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Hi all
 
 Got a bit of a problem down here. I have a master cylinder and servo
 that have died and having a lot of trouble getting another.
 
 Has anyone got one waiting for a good home???
 
 Let me know please
 
 Eddie
 
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 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
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preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: H4 rear brake pipes

[Ken Needham]

Hi,

 Aluminium under the wheel arch is very likely to corrode due to salt. Much 
better to use stainless pop rivets. They are easy to get these days especialy 
through marine outlets and frequently advertised on ebay.

 

Flowing through on the LED discussion, I have fitted a multi LED bulb and would 
agree that the overall illumination is a tad down when on sidelamps but the 
stop light is great.

I've only ran it for a month now but I would hope the reliability is improved.

 

One change I have made is that of the headlamps on my saloon. The 35 watt HID 
bulb sets give much better road illumination although the dip  cutoff on the H4 
version is not quite as good as conventional.

I have also fitted the H1 bulb set to my wife's Alfa and that is an amazing 
difference
Imported from HK through ebay, I have now bought three sets. I had a ballast 
pop after a week on the Alfa. I mailed the supplier and by return they offered 
to replace the unit if I returned it or for 20$ they would send one imediately 
with no further requirement. 

I paid the 20 through paypal and had the new unit within a few days.

 

The H4 units took about 40 mins to fit due to a relay required for the dip 
function and the bulb units are a bit fiddly to position but the H1s just 
replace the standard bulb plus require the ballasts to be mounted near to the 
headlamp units. They were fitted in 10 mins.

We have been running them fo a year now without any problems. 

 

regards

Ken

 

 

 Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 14:50:50 +0100
 From: russ...@quantum54.freeserve.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: H4 rear brake pipes
 
 Dave is spot on, and if my aged brain remebers chemistry correctly from 
 30 years ago the series is:
 
 Magnesium
 Aluminium
 Zinc
 Iron
 Tin
 Lead
 Copper
 Silver
 
 As aluminium is above iron it corrodes in preference to the steel.
 
 Russell
 
 On 28/08/2010 12:04, Dave English wrote:
  Hi Pete.
 
  Although I can't answer your problem about how to reattach the
  bracket, if it was originally riveted (one of Jim's options), I can
  tell you why it came off.
  When aluminium rivets are used through steel they suffer from
  'dissimilar metal corrosion'. In this case, the steel will cause the
  aluminium to corrode.
  A better method to fix the bracket to GRP may be to use a couple of
  suitable sized self tappers and some araldite in the holes.
  I have used this method myself and it does work, but as always, my
  ideas are open to comment and suggestion.
 
  Dave
 
  
 
 
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 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).

  

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: What a load of old scrap!

[Ken Needham]

Hi,

 I 've got  several pairs of old disks in reading. You're welcome to pick up . 
They are rusty  but not too much.

 

Cheers

Ken
 
 Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 09:03:39 -0700
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: What a load of old scrap!
 From: paul.fenni...@eu.bovislendlease.com
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 As it goes i have a scrap fly wheel. I am in Devizes.
 
 Paul
 
 On 11 Aug, 20:49, Matthew matt...@wastell.eu wrote:
  Hello,
 
  I'm after a couple of scrap fly wheels and scrap brake discs.  Any make
  model or condition, but the bigger the better.  If you've just changed them
  or have some lying about you've not got around to taking to the recycling,
  can I have them please?
 
  I'm near Basingstoke and work in Bracknell, I can pick up locally or by
  Quantum post.
 
  Thanks!
 
  Matthew
 
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 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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RE: [Quantum Owners] Re: Free to good home - XR2 and XR2i engines (probably!)

[Ken Needham]

Hi Neil

,Is your offer still available for this weekend?

If so, ould you send a phone number to:-

fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk

many thanks

Ken
 
 Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 12:34:41 -0700
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Free to good home - XR2 and XR2i engines 
 (probably!)
 From: nailed.barna...@gmail.com
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Ken, the plan is to rip the XR2 engine out week starting 4th July -
 about six weeks. But if you want to take the xr2i engine from Hemel
 earlier, this weekend is the last one I'll be at home until the
 engine's out.
 
 Neil
 
 On 27 May, 09:19, Ken Needham fixit-wo...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
  Hi Neil,
 
   Im looking for  an XR2 engine to refurb and drop in to replace the 1600 
  CVH  that is  getting on.
 
  So yes i'm interested and reading is close to Hemel!
 
  regards
 
  Ken
 
 
 
   Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 13:31:41 -0700
   Subject: [Quantum Owners] Free to good home - XR2 and XR2i engines 
   (probably!)
   From: nailed.barna...@gmail.com
   To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
   Ok, when I replace my XR2 engine in a month or so, it'll be scrapped
   unless it's of use to anyone...
 
   The engine will be removed at a friend's place in Bromyard - halfway
   between Hereford and Worcester - complete and working (and with a
   small service only a month or so ago - damn!). Including gearbox,
   alternator, starter (usual dodgy slow-start-when-hot) inlet and
   exhaust manifolds, carb, and downpipes. Basically, drop it in and
   it'll go.
 
   The XR2i engine is sitting in my garage in Hemel Hempstead. It's been
   there for a year, and comes complete with all the stuff that came with
   it - never been run up by me. It's probably got most of the bits
   including the ECU but doesn't include the cabling and I can't
   guarantee all the plumbing.
 
   Both (either!) free to anyone who wants them; assuming of course that
   I can get the Fiat engine in and running. You'll have to collect, of
   course. If they don't go, they'll be off to the scrapper.
 
   Neil
 
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   Is basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the 
   Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum 
   Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any 
   liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or 
   damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the 
   instructions contained within this or related message(s).
 
  _http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/
  We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us 
  now
 
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 IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
 basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
 the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  
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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).

RE: [Quantum Owners] Free to good home - XR2 and XR2i engines (probably!)

[Ken Needham]

Hi Neil,

 Im looking for  an XR2 engine to refurb and drop in to replace the 1600 CVH  
that is  getting on.

So yes i'm interested and reading is close to Hemel!

regards

Ken
 
 Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 13:31:41 -0700
 Subject: [Quantum Owners] Free to good home - XR2 and XR2i engines (probably!)
 From: nailed.barna...@gmail.com
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 
 Ok, when I replace my XR2 engine in a month or so, it'll be scrapped
 unless it's of use to anyone...
 
 The engine will be removed at a friend's place in Bromyard - halfway
 between Hereford and Worcester - complete and working (and with a
 small service only a month or so ago - damn!). Including gearbox,
 alternator, starter (usual dodgy slow-start-when-hot) inlet and
 exhaust manifolds, carb, and downpipes. Basically, drop it in and
 it'll go.
 
 The XR2i engine is sitting in my garage in Hemel Hempstead. It's been
 there for a year, and comes complete with all the stuff that came with
 it - never been run up by me. It's probably got most of the bits
 including the ECU but doesn't include the cabling and I can't
 guarantee all the plumbing.
 
 Both (either!) free to anyone who wants them; assuming of course that
 I can get the Fiat engine in and running. You'll have to collect, of
 course. If they don't go, they'll be off to the scrapper.
 
 Neil
 
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 IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
 basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
 the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged 
 to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this 
 or related message(s).
  
_
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We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).