[RBW] Re: Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-14 Thread Philip Williamson
creek gravel is different from road gravel - I don't think there's a
tire that will stay up in what are basically bearings.

For gravel roads with irregular chert gravel, I like a fat tire, 35+.
The fatter the better, for more float in the deep sections. If it's
mostly dirt with gravel, or the gravel is very compacted, 30mm road
tires will work okay.
I used to ride inverted knobbies, but I don't anymore. I think they're
just heavy. They're tough, though.

The Ground Control is a great tire - I'd ride it. 25 psi seems low,
but I'm heavy. Lowering the pressure in gravel helps me a lot.

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com


On Oct 13, 5:04 pm, Bob Cooper robertcoo...@frontiernet.net wrote:
 Advice sought about riding in the gravel:

 Conventional wisdom has it that, if the road surface is harder than
 the tire, then knobbies are not an advantage, and a slick tire offers
 more grip.

 Today I fell on a steep ascent -- about 20+ percent -- on a road
 covered in creek gravel the size of robins’ eggs. (I know: I didn’t
 pick my line sagely.)

 As I spun though the air, looking up at the tops of the trees and at
 my feet, which were up there with the trees, I had a moment to reflect
 on the conventional wisdom.

 I know that a lot of subscribers to this list do a lot of mixed
 terrain riding, and I was wondering, if anyone had an opinion about
 the use of knobbies versus slicks -- or inverted-tread tires -- for
 this application.

 Continental Town and Country, 2.1 inch, 25 psi. (What I had today.)

 Versus, for example, Specialized Ground Control II, 1.95 inch, same
 psi. (What I have in the parts bin.)

 Any advice appreciated,

 Bob “Love Those Lonely, Gravel Roads” Cooper

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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv-ish 58cm Surly Pacer Club Racer Build

2010-10-14 Thread Dlbracey
TJ, you are correct that some of those parts would be great for the
AHH, but the AHH I bought was pretty much complete less drivetrain,
saddle, and pedals and I actually have an Ultegra triple drivetrain
for the AHH.  I wanted to try to sell it complete first because I
spent a lot of time picking the parts for the Pacer and building it up
and it kind of pains me to disassemble it so soon - especially since
it is a really sweet riding/looking bike.  If I end up parting it out
I'll probably use a handful of the parts on the AHH and a planned
single speed commuter build (looking for an appropriate frame/
quickbeam btw) and sell the wheels, frame, and some other small
bits.

I actually have someone interested in the frame and I told him I'd let
him know by the end of the week.  If that happens I'll post the parts
for sale on here first.




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Re: [RBW] Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-14 Thread cyclotourist
Yes, everything already said.  I recall TCs run a bit small???  If you can
fit 'em, try some of the 60mm Big Apples.

On Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Bob Cooper robertcoo...@frontiernet.netwrote:

 Advice sought about riding in the gravel:

 Conventional wisdom has it that, if the road surface is harder than
 the tire, then knobbies are not an advantage, and a slick tire offers
 more grip.

 Today I fell on a steep ascent -- about 20+ percent -- on a road
 covered in creek gravel the size of robins’ eggs. (I know: I didn’t
 pick my line sagely.)

 As I spun though the air, looking up at the tops of the trees and at
 my feet, which were up there with the trees, I had a moment to reflect
 on the conventional wisdom.

 I know that a lot of subscribers to this list do a lot of mixed
 terrain riding, and I was wondering, if anyone had an opinion about
 the use of knobbies versus slicks -- or inverted-tread tires -- for
 this application.

 Continental Town and Country, 2.1 inch, 25 psi. (What I had today.)

 Versus, for example, Specialized Ground Control II, 1.95 inch, same
 psi. (What I have in the parts bin.)

 Any advice appreciated,

 Bob “Love Those Lonely, Gravel Roads” Cooper

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] For Sale or Trade: Fizik Arione CX

2010-10-14 Thread Johnny Alien
I have what is essentially a brand new Fizik Arione saddle in black.
It was mounted once and then removed.  Comes with the original
packaging.  This is the one with the Klium rails but is the 2010 model
which weighs only 205g.

I realize this is not typical Riv saddles but there are a bunch of
Roadeo riders here that I thought might be interested.

These newer ones sell for $170 roughly. I well sell this one for $110
shipped OR if anyone has a Brooks Swift that they would like to trade
that is the saddle I would like to try next.  Black or brown.

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-14 Thread Garth

Yeah Bob, I rode a similar road yesterday where I live. A steep ascent
of a broken patched primitive road covered in mixed rock and gravel. A
road so bad, it's the only way I know how to describe it. As I'm
pushing my way up in a 24/32 gear, just barely getting enough traction
not to fall . I'm wondering the same as you, how to get more
traction.   I've also ridden up the same hill on my road bike with
34mm tires, and it was no different.

Once in a while I drive my F150 2WD pickup up it, with it's 255mm
tires, and it slips too on the steep part. I go the same with it as I
do riding . go slow(of course, the steep pitch takes care of
that !), but maintain a steady pace and line.

My conclusion, the tire really doesn't matter. Picking your line,
holding it steady, and smooth pedaling does make a difference. If I
have to get off the bike for a stint, so be it.

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[RBW] Re: For Sale or Trade: Fizik Arione CX

2010-10-14 Thread Johnny Alien
Like this:

http://kozy.com/product/fizik-arione-cx-w-kium-rails-12572.htm

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-14 Thread EricP
I would probably agree.  Spent the last week riding mostly off paved
roads with WTB Nanorapor tires 29x2.1.  Those are good in most
situations.  Although loose gravel on top of a road surface is
tricky.  Have not tried the Conti TC although numerous riders have
recommended them as good on all surfaces.

Have ridden Big Apple 50s on gravel.  On smoother and flatter roads
they work well.  My bike handling skills are not to the point where I
have had good luck with them on tricky ascents/descents.

Then again, list member Jim Thill has raced on gravel roads with
Schwalbe Kojack tires without any problems.

Guess the point is - probably more the rider than the tire.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Oct 14, 6:50 am, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yeah Bob, I rode a similar road yesterday where I live. A steep ascent
 of a broken patched primitive road covered in mixed rock and gravel. A
 road so bad, it's the only way I know how to describe it. As I'm
 pushing my way up in a 24/32 gear, just barely getting enough traction
 not to fall . I'm wondering the same as you, how to get more
 traction.   I've also ridden up the same hill on my road bike with
 34mm tires, and it was no different.

 Once in a while I drive my F150 2WD pickup up it, with it's 255mm
 tires, and it slips too on the steep part. I go the same with it as I
 do riding . go slow(of course, the steep pitch takes care of
 that !), but maintain a steady pace and line.

 My conclusion, the tire really doesn't matter. Picking your line,
 holding it steady, and smooth pedaling does make a difference. If I
 have to get off the bike for a stint, so be it.

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-14 Thread Scott G.
How about inverted tread tires like the late lamented Avocet Cross II ?

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-14 Thread Patrick in VT


On Oct 13, 8:04 pm, Bob Cooper robertcoo...@frontiernet.net wrote:
 Advice sought about riding in the gravel:

lower your tire pressure!

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-14 Thread stevep33
A low profile cyclocross tire, something not super-fat, like a 32mm
works well in mixed terrain.  Rather than floating over loose surface
like a fat tire would, the narrow tires sink into it and give solid
traction.  I've had excellent luck with the Challenge Grifo XS tires -
the low profile tread grips well and they VERY speedy when mixed
terrain returns to pavement. These feel quite cushy for 32mm tire -
worth the $$$ IMO.  Ritchey Speedmax cross tires are nice for trails
too but are not quite as quick on pavement.

That said, smooth pedaling and good body position are at least as
important are important too.

On Oct 14, 8:59 am, Scott G. sco...@primax.com wrote:
 How about inverted tread tires like the late lamented Avocet Cross II ?

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[RBW] Re: VO Campagne handlebar review?

2010-10-14 Thread Mike
A friend of mine has one and loaned it to me for a few days. I didn't
like it. You can mount it on a front rack (Mark's Rack, Nitto mini-
front rack) without a decauler but it didn't seem entirely steady. The
bag's construction seemed cheap and it was too small. I think it's
even smaller than the Acorn rando bag. The area where you put a cue
sheet is rather small and so if you used it for a brevet, depending on
the number of cues, you might find yourself having to adjust the cue
sheet frequently. Also it's not that tall so if it's going on a big
bike, say 60cm frame, it looks kind of odd and isn't as easy to
access. Overall the bag just seems to miss the boat.Still, the bag is
inexpensive.

If you're looking for a bag to use for randonneuring just bite the
bullet and get a Berthoud HB bag through the Rene Herse online store.
The guy who runs it, Mike Kone, is super nice and helpful.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: For Sale or Trade: Fizik Arione CX

2010-10-14 Thread stevep33
Have you checked out the Fizik Aliante?  IMO, the shape is more humane
than the Arione, similar to the shape of my Brooks Pro.  The Aliante
rides more comfortably than any other plastic saddle I've used.

On Oct 14, 7:45 am, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:
 These newer ones sell for $170 roughly. I well sell this one for $110
 shipped OR if anyone has a Brooks Swift that they would like to trade
 that is the saddle I would like to try next.  Black or brown.

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[RBW] Slightly OT: Renaissanced Bicycle Google Group

2010-10-14 Thread Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles
While Riv-ish pursuits occupy a lot of our time at Renaissance
Bicycles, we are also interested in tinkering with and upgrading
classic bikes.  Anything from 650B conversions to reviving old Raleigh
3-speeds.  These bikes may not always be the most desirable bikes to
the masses (just like Rivendells), we see the untapped potential in
vintage beater forgotten by others.

And based on the number of questions we receive regarding how-to's,
we suspect there are enough interested renaissancers out there to
provide a proper community. Hence, we have created the Renaissanced
Bicycle Google Group:

http://groups.google.com/group/renaissanced-bicycle-group

This group is not intended for just our customers, but rather for
anyone interested in reviving a classic bike with modern components.
In other words, it is a place for comradery, assistance, and a shared
interest in reviving classic bicycles. Likewise, it is not intended or
restricted to one type / category / model of bicycle -- everyone and
everything is welcome.

Visit, join, contribute.

Bryan

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[RBW] Re: For Sale or Trade: Fizik Arione CX

2010-10-14 Thread Johnny Alien
I actually thought it was pretty comfortable I just decided that I
would like to have a slightly more classic look.  For anyone wanting a
nice modern saddle though I think it's fantastic. I figured I would
see if someone wanted it here before sending it off to ebay.

On Oct 14, 9:59 am, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Have you checked out the Fizik Aliante?  IMO, the shape is more humane
 than the Arione, similar to the shape of my Brooks Pro.  The Aliante
 rides more comfortably than any other plastic saddle I've used.

 On Oct 14, 7:45 am, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:



  These newer ones sell for $170 roughly. I well sell this one for $110
  shipped OR if anyone has a Brooks Swift that they would like to trade
  that is the saddle I would like to try next.  Black or brown.

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[RBW] Re: Headlands Ride Report 10.11.10

2010-10-14 Thread Lee
Hi Manny. So far, my setup has been working out for me. But there are
two caveats. One, I have them in a non-traditional position, in that
they are slung low relative to the saddle (about an inch drop). Two,
the longest ride I've done with them was 55 miles. I'm planning on
extending my range with the Quickbeam and just have to go about doing
it.

Overall, I've done a number of 40-50 mile rides with them. In
comparison to drops, there are less hand positions that affect the
angle of my back and the angle of my palms and wrists. Those are the
biggest limitations I've found with my setup. As you know, when you
ride long distances, variation provides welcome relief. With drops, I
get these: in the hooks, in the drops, on the ramps, on the bends, and
on the top. That's pretty remarkable.

With the low-slung 'staches, I go about things thisaway: My normal
cruising position is to have my hands just outboard of the hooks,
palms facing each other and thumbs hooked under the bars. This is my
analog to the hoods positions and it works great. With the inverse
levers, I can access the brakes with my pinkie and ring fingers pretty
immediately. To vary things up with my hands, I sometimes move my
thumbs over the bars, instead of under. When my back starts honking, I
sit up and hang onto the bars right at their ends. The extensions that
the inverse levers provide make this work out pretty nice, but I can't
maintain this position for very long. So, I opt for frequency over
duration in these cases. And, every once in a while I'll just sit up
straight and ride no-handed. When I need speed or when facing a good
seated climb, I put my paws over the hooks, palms facing the ground,
elbows bent 90 degrees, and back flattened. Then I tug and churn. I
call this my Pineapple Bob tribute: http://tinyurl.com/2ck8gmp. And,
for climbing while standing, the bars are the best setup I've ever
used.

So, there's your very long and detailed answer. I can thank morning
coffee and NyQuil for it (shaking off a cold).

Best,
Lee

On Oct 13, 11:39 am, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 Thanks for the ride report Lee. I really like your set up been
 thinking of making a bike with the same handlebar/brake combo set up.
 Hows it ride for you? Any advantage or disadvantages over having drop
 bars?
 -Manny

 On Oct 13, 11:08 am, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote:

  Hi Anne. I'm no great bike handler, but here is what I ride. The
  Quickbeam is a 650B conversion. So far, I've used the 32mm Nifty
  Swiftys with the lightly-treaded checkerboard pattern. I had trouble
  with them in terms of traction on some steep upward pitches. I had
  them at about 50-55 last time I rode these trails.

  I've used Col de la Vies on a few different bikes in the Headlands and
  these worked very well. They measure out to about 35.555etc. mm
  and have good, deep oval-shaped treads. Normally, I run them at 60-65
  psi on my commute. On the trails, I set them to about 55-60. Less
  would probably help both with traction and to provide float on the
  deeper, sandy stuff.

  Speaking of deep, sandy stuff, that is the main issue I have with
  trail riding. On climbs, I can spin out when I hit such a patch,
  particularly on the one speed. So, I try to pick a decent line and
  hunker my butt down on the back edge of the saddle when cranking
  through it, as recommended to me on my last mixed terrain ride report.

  On descents, I get a little leary of the slip-and-slide action as I
  pass through the wash. So again, I try to pick a decent line, dampen
  my speed some before hitting the patch. Then, let loose the brakes and
  try to keep my line as straight as possible as I forge my way through
  the deep stuff. Overall, though, I'm a pretty slow descender on
  trails.

  Again, I'm a newb to this type of riding and I'm sure there are a lot
  of smart techniques out there that folks have developed, if anyone
  wants to chime in here.

  My Col de la Vies have given out, so I'm thinking about the new Soma
  650B tires, which are ~38mm equivalents of your Paselas (at least
  superficially). I'm interested in seeing how they do on those trails.
  Plus, they are a little bit lighter than the Col de la Vies. I know, I
  know, it's all about the engine. But this engine welcomes any help it
  can get!

  Best,
  Lee

  On Oct 13, 9:55 am, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:

   Sounds fantastic. What tires do you find necessary for adventures like
   that? What tires would you recommend for someone who's not a great
   bike handler? What pressure did you run your tires at?

   I like riding my Atlantis (32 mm Panaracer Paselas) on dirt fire
   roads, but lately, at the end of the summer, I've been chickening out
   and walking more, as the fire roads in the South Bay (and presumably
   in Marin as well) are covered with gravel and dust.

   On Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote:
Morning, all. I was able to wheel out the Quickbeam 

[RBW] Re: Headlands Ride Report 10.11.10

2010-10-14 Thread Lee
Doug, I hope you do ride some trails soon! I, too, get a lot of
inspiration from other listers stories and pics. I just love how these
Rivs are so good at both roads and trails. One story from the ride
that I just reported: About half-way up this great, paved climbed
called Conzelman Road, construction workers were out fixing up the
roads. (As locals would know, they are doing major road renovations
all in the Headlands and various roads are off-limits for months at a
time.). While climbing the road to the half-way point to get to our
trail, the construction crew had stopped all traffic. They were laying
long swaths of aggregate down, and then ferrying cars across in
intervals. They were adamantly refusing access to all cyclists,
telling them that there's no way a bike could get across such
treacherous ground. Other cyclists were turning back, but I sidled up
to the main dude and asked what made it treacherous. He said the beds
were aggregate, sharp and pointy, covering the road for a good 50
yards or so. The crew chief gave me a p.o.'d look and said you'll pop
your tires and then what will you do!. I thought: this is exactly why
I've chosen the kind of bikes, build, and tires that I'm riding. It
was born for this. So, I told him I'd take my chances and that I have
a very tough bike. So, they let us through. The terrain was no worse
than some of the gravely trails in the Headlands. But if you bet that
I was sweating it hoping that a freak mishap wouldn't occur, you'd be
a winner.

As for technique, that is much too elegant a word for what I do out
there :)

Best,
Lee

On Oct 13, 5:15 pm, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Lee:

 Nice photos.  Motivates me to head for the trail tomorrow.  To your
 question regarding preference, it's a mood thing.  Like you, sometimes
 I like to push it a bit on the pavement, and other times it's relaxing
 to just dawdle around in the dirt (of course, for me that usually
 involves plenty of pushing too!).  There are several rides I do where
 I use a fire trail or similar to connect together a couple of paved
 areas.  These short cuts usually take a lot more time  effort than
 staying on the pavement would.  The nice thing about a Rivendell is
 they are happy to do it all.

 dougP

 On Oct 13, 9:50 am, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote:

  Morning, all. I was able to wheel out the Quickbeam for a weekend ride
  for the first time in more than a month. It took me out into the Marin
  Headlands to explore the wonderful set of trails inscribed there along
  the southern three ridges. Despite being underpowered and therefore, a
  bit undergeared, it was a wonderful afternoon. Trails, hills, beaches,
  and an ocean, with only minimal interruptions by three other cyclists,
  two runners, and a handful of hikers--all just 10 miles or so from my
  urban-crushed doorstep.

  I seem to oscillate between these types of out-back trail rides and
  longer road rides out into the country. Sometimes it's fun to get into
  a steady cadence on the road, feel a little speed, and enjoy the
  breeze in your face. Other times, I just want nothing to do with other
  bipeds (no offense of course) and head off to the nearest trailhead.
  Do you all have a preference for one type of riding over another?

  In any event, I'm just glad I have a bike that lets me do both so
  enjoyably. Here's the visuals:

 http://tinyurl.com/2dc6r76

  Take care,
  Lee
  SF, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO Campagne handlebar review?

2010-10-14 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2010-10-14 at 06:45 -0700, Mike wrote:
 A friend of mine has one and loaned it to me for a few days. I didn't
 like it. You can mount it on a front rack (Mark's Rack, Nitto mini-
 front rack) without a decauler but it didn't seem entirely steady. The
 bag's construction seemed cheap and it was too small. I think it's
 even smaller than the Acorn rando bag. The area where you put a cue
 sheet is rather small and so if you used it for a brevet, depending on
 the number of cues, you might find yourself having to adjust the cue
 sheet frequently. Also it's not that tall so if it's going on a big
 bike, say 60cm frame, it looks kind of odd and isn't as easy to
 access. Overall the bag just seems to miss the boat.Still, the bag is
 inexpensive.

It is, after all, meant to be a small bag.  Not everyone likes a bag the
size of the GB28 or has use for something with that much capacity.


 
 If you're looking for a bag to use for randonneuring just bite the
 bullet and get a Berthoud HB bag through the Rene Herse online store.
 The guy who runs it, Mike Kone, is super nice and helpful.


You can also get Berthoud bags from Peter White, who has been selling
them far longer than Mike Kone's had the Rene Herse name.

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[RBW] Re: VO Campagne handlebar review?

2010-10-14 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Thanks, Mike... No argument, the Berthoud is indeed THE bag to own
(IMO), but still that's an awfully big bullet to bite just for a
handlebar bag (to a non-randonneur like me).  I already have a nice
Zimbale 11-litre saddlebag to hold stuff I don't need to access while
pedalling, so a smaller bag up front is actually OK with me.  (When I
gather up the stones to do my first brevet, that may be a different
story.)  The fact that the VO is at least available to me is a big
plus; remembering to schedule time near the first of the month to get
in line for an Acorn bag (AND paying $175), or waiting and waiting for
the Ostrich HB bags to become available...I just haven't the patience.
I want a bag now, not in a month or 2 (if I'm lucky)... So I'll go
with the (less expensive and available) VO now, thanks... just the
same let me know if you ever want to sell your Berthoud on the
cheap :)... And I'll share my honest impressions of the VO bag with
this forum.

It's funny... back in college in the late 70s I owned a nice TA-style
canvas handlebar bag (a knockoff I am sure), and after catching so
much grief from my friends with sleek nylon handlebar bags, I actually
developed a disdain for my big clunky, and obviously unstylish TA
bag... But then again, I rode with a Skid-Lid back then, so what the
hell did I know?  I guess karma must be catching up with me; after
casting that old handlebar bag aside (that I would today give my right
arm for), it seems only fitting that today I would probably have to
pay more than the original cost for the privilege of owning such a
thing of beauty...

Peace,
BB

On Oct 14, 9:45 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 A friend of mine has one and loaned it to me for a few days. I didn't
 like it. You can mount it on a front rack (Mark's Rack, Nitto mini-
 front rack) without a decauler but it didn't seem entirely steady. The
 bag's construction seemed cheap and it was too small. I think it's
 even smaller than the Acorn rando bag. The area where you put a cue
 sheet is rather small and so if you used it for a brevet, depending on
 the number of cues, you might find yourself having to adjust the cue
 sheet frequently. Also it's not that tall so if it's going on a big
 bike, say 60cm frame, it looks kind of odd and isn't as easy to
 access. Overall the bag just seems to miss the boat.Still, the bag is
 inexpensive.

 If you're looking for a bag to use for randonneuring just bite the
 bullet and get a Berthoud HB bag through the Rene Herse online store.
 The guy who runs it, Mike Kone, is super nice and helpful.

 --mike

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Re: [RBW] Headlands Ride Report - Now Tam

2010-10-14 Thread CycloFiend
on 10/13/10 10:09 AM, James Warren at jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:

 
 I had a great Atlantis ride up Railroad Grade on Mt. Tam in Marin County the
 day after the Rivendell garage sale. I used Marathon Extremes, knobby 40ers.
 
 On the say down, Hoo Koo E Koo was good, but then on Blithedale Ridge heading
 down back toward Mill Valley, I chickened out a few times and walked the bike
 down the steep stuff. I probably would have done the same on my MB-4 with two
 inch knobbies, probably would have done the same on a full sus bike.

The upper part of Blithedale Ridge (from where it connects with HKEK) has a
couple of spots which are just about the steepest sections of roads on the
mountain.  This time of year, it's dry, dusty and very loose.  There are a
couple spots where if you did go off piste, you'd have a while to think
about what you did before you started hitting stuff.

Nothing wrong with discretion!

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

Maybe a bike, once discarded, pines away year after year for the first hand
that steered it, and as it grows old it dreams, in its bike way, of the
young roads.

-- Robert McCammon, Boy's Life

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why I like you guys part deuce

2010-10-14 Thread CycloFiend
on 10/13/10 9:30 AM, Philip Williamson at philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 I love the tone of this group. Here are some reasons I think it's
 fairly civil.
 
 Historical traditions. The silverbacks are graduates of the iBOB list,
 which used to be relatively polite. Haven't read it in a while, but
 when I did, it was the calm end of the pool. The original Riv-backed
 list was shut down when Grant deemed the discourse too uncivil, and I
 think Jim shut this list down for a couple weeks one February when
 everyone got itchy and mean.

Didn't actually shut it down, but rather floated (a few times) the idea of
doing so (or taking a self-enforced vow of silence...) during the period of
pre-spring thaw, where folks on lists in general tend to get cabin fever and
otherwise very rational people start getting cranky.  For a literary
reference, there's a short story by Jack London called The Kilkenny Cats.

But, everyone here has remained mindful of those tendancies, making a
list-pause unecessary.  Thanks again.

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

Then I sat up, wiped the water out of my eyes, and looked at my bike, and
just like that I knew it was dead

-- Robert McCammon, Boy's Life

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Re: [RBW] Headlands Ride Report - Now Tam

2010-10-14 Thread Ray Shine
This has been an interesting thread. Just last weekend I rode my Bleriot on a 
long single-track in the Sierra.  I can count on one hand the number of times I 
have ridden a single-track trail, and my technique is certainly begging.  
Anyway, I did OK, but in particularly rocky sections (boulders, not gravel) my 
front wheel kept coming off the surface when I was climbing, and that always 
threw me off-balance, especially going around trees. I always made a point of 
falling off uphill, not over the trail rim.  I had that much sense. I tried 
standing and leaning over the bars, but that was a cumbersome position, and I 
felt more in control sitting.  There were many sections of this trail (8.5 
miles 
long) where I did more walking than riding.  I trust that is the discretion 
to 
which Jim refers!

I was using the Bleriot, jitensha straight bars, and Fatty Rumkins.  Like I 
said, steep pitches or going over boulders up-grade and my front wheel kept 
popping off the surface.  Aside from my novice technique, would a better 
cockpit 
help me out more?  Or, is the Bleriot just not the best bike for this stuff?





From: CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, October 14, 2010 9:06:00 AM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Headlands Ride Report - Now Tam

on 10/13/10 10:09 AM, James Warren at jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:

 
 I had a great Atlantis ride up Railroad Grade on Mt. Tam in Marin County the
 day after the Rivendell garage sale. I used Marathon Extremes, knobby 40ers.
 
 On the say down, Hoo Koo E Koo was good, but then on Blithedale Ridge heading
 down back toward Mill Valley, I chickened out a few times and walked the bike
 down the steep stuff. I probably would have done the same on my MB-4 with two
 inch knobbies, probably would have done the same on a full sus bike.

The upper part of Blithedale Ridge (from where it connects with HKEK) has a
couple of spots which are just about the steepest sections of roads on the
mountain.  This time of year, it's dry, dusty and very loose.  There are a
couple spots where if you did go off piste, you'd have a while to think
about what you did before you started hitting stuff.

Nothing wrong with discretion!

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

Maybe a bike, once discarded, pines away year after year for the first hand
that steered it, and as it grows old it dreams, in its bike way, of the
young roads.

-- Robert McCammon, Boy's Life

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO Campagne handlebar review?

2010-10-14 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2010-10-14 at 08:38 -0700, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
 
 It's funny... back in college in the late 70s I owned a nice TA-style
 canvas handlebar bag (a knockoff I am sure), and after catching so
 much grief from my friends with sleek nylon handlebar bags, I actually
 developed a disdain for my big clunky, and obviously unstylish TA
 bag... But then again, I rode with a Skid-Lid back then, so what the
 hell did I know?  I guess karma must be catching up with me; after
 casting that old handlebar bag aside (that I would today give my right
 arm for), it seems only fitting that today I would probably have to
 pay more than the original cost for the privilege of owning such a
 thing of beauty...
 

What's /really/ funny is how much better the old style canvas bags
perform than the sleek nylon bags, especially when it comes to keeping
out the water.  I've had my two Berthoud bags out in many hours long
driving rain, and the interior of the the bags have always stayed
completely dry.  I also have a Kirtland Tour Pack nlyon handlebar bag,
and it has no water resistance whatever.  (Of course, the interior
coating dried out and peeled off like a nasty sunburn, which is typical
for old Kirtland stuff.)



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[RBW] new wool goods

2010-10-14 Thread Seth Vidal
My SO just sent this along to me and I think it has a number of rbw-relatedness:

http://www.ramblersway.com/

 - domestic wool - from Rambouillet sheep, in fact
 - domestic production -

and of course it's wool.

So you could wear all rambouillet ON your rambouillet.
:)

-sv

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[RBW] Re: new wool goods

2010-10-14 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
I like one thing about it already: relaxed fit XXL! Price is another
matter...

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Oct 14, 11:58 am, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 My SO just sent this along to me and I think it has a number of 
 rbw-relatedness:

 http://www.ramblersway.com/

  - domestic wool - from Rambouillet sheep, in fact
  - domestic production -

 and of course it's wool.

 So you could wear all rambouillet ON your rambouillet.
 :)

 -sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: new wool goods

2010-10-14 Thread Seth Vidal
On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 1:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:
 I like one thing about it already: relaxed fit XXL! Price is another
 matter...


Prices seem comparable to ibex, for example.

No idea on quality or durability.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: VO Campagne handlebar review?

2010-10-14 Thread LBleriot
I have been using one for the past year.  The one nit I have to pick
with it is that the VO bag is not tall enough.  It sits nicley on my
Nitto rack, but there is no way that I can get it to work with a
decaleur.  I have a 15cm head tube, and no matter how I mount or bend
the decaleur, the prongs will not fit.  It simply lifts the bag off
the rack.  As a result, I've taken to reversing the prongs and using
the decaleur for just a bit of stability.  Rubber bands or ties from
the side loops to the handlebars also help.  Other than the fit issue,
the bag suits my purposes, is fairly well made, and the price can't be
beat.

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[RBW] Re: Headlands Ride Report - Now Tam

2010-10-14 Thread Phil Bickford
Hey Ray -

you might benefit from a longer stem, or shifting your weight wwaay up
on the saddle nose, or riding a knobbier/softer tire.

Sounds like fun, it's been years since I've been up in the Sierra.
Big granite is a blast.

My2cents,

Phil B
 
 Anyway, I did OK, but in particularly rocky sections (boulders, not gravel) my
 front wheel kept coming off the surface when I was climbing,

 I was using the Bleriot, jitensha straight bars, and Fatty Rumkins.  Like I
 said, steep pitches or going over boulders up-grade and my front wheel kept
 popping off the surface.  Aside from my novice technique, would a better 
 cockpit
 help me out more?  

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[RBW] Re: new wool goods

2010-10-14 Thread Garth
I gotta say, I like the cross shirts with the V neck instead of the
common choker collar. . .  .  and that they have Tall sizes!  I gave
up on wool for these two reasons. Yeah, the prices are way up
there .. but I've spent money on much worse things . The stitching
appears to be properly good. from the zooms.

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[RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Renaissanced Bicycle Google Group

2010-10-14 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Bryan:

BRAVO!!!  My friends and I affectionately refer to the practice of
taking a bike and repurposing it, typically for a use slightly
different than its original purpose as mutating a bike... I
personally prefer the term undergoing a renaissance and will educate
my mutant friends accordingly.

I have a few of these projects in my past present and future, for
which I would love to contribute to this effort.  THANKS!
There is certainly no shortage of renaissance genius on this
forum...

Peace,
BB

On Oct 14, 10:11 am, Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles
renaissancebicyc...@gmail.com wrote:
 While Riv-ish pursuits occupy a lot of our time at Renaissance
 Bicycles, we are also interested in tinkering with and upgrading
 classic bikes.  Anything from 650B conversions to reviving old Raleigh
 3-speeds.  These bikes may not always be the most desirable bikes to
 the masses (just like Rivendells), we see the untapped potential in
 vintage beater forgotten by others.

 And based on the number of questions we receive regarding how-to's,
 we suspect there are enough interested renaissancers out there to
 provide a proper community. Hence, we have created the Renaissanced
 Bicycle Google Group:

 http://groups.google.com/group/renaissanced-bicycle-group

 This group is not intended for just our customers, but rather for
 anyone interested in reviving a classic bike with modern components.
 In other words, it is a place for comradery, assistance, and a shared
 interest in reviving classic bicycles. Likewise, it is not intended or
 restricted to one type / category / model of bicycle -- everyone and
 everything is welcome.

 Visit, join, contribute.

 Bryan

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[RBW] Re: VO Campagne handlebar review?

2010-10-14 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Maybe the need for some type of rack-riser franken-mount is in
order... hmmm...

On Oct 14, 11:34 am, LBleriot gary.sch...@att.net wrote:
 I have been using one for the past year.  The one nit I have to pick
 with it is that the VO bag is not tall enough.  It sits nicley on my
 Nitto rack, but there is no way that I can get it to work with a
 decaleur.  I have a 15cm head tube, and no matter how I mount or bend
 the decaleur, the prongs will not fit.  It simply lifts the bag off
 the rack.  As a result, I've taken to reversing the prongs and using
 the decaleur for just a bit of stability.  Rubber bands or ties from
 the side loops to the handlebars also help.  Other than the fit issue,
 the bag suits my purposes, is fairly well made, and the price can't be
 beat.

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[RBW] Re: VO Campagne handlebar review?

2010-10-14 Thread scott
I sold mine shortly after buying it. The canvas was thin and didn't
look up to the abuse I dish. The leather was also not super thick and
the stitching didn't look great. It also wasn't tall enough for my
bike either. It is a nice size for a front bag. The price seems good,
until you factor in the additional stuff needed to run it properly--
rack, decaleur, extras if you want to swap bikes with it. I am way
happier with my acorn hobo that I've had for years now. Gone on a
bunch of long tours with it and can't complain. I'd go with the brand
v boxy or bar tube if you already have a saddlebag. Keep a woolie and
some food and maybe a camera up front. Also, I like zippers better
than elastic straps when on the move. Whatever, just an opinion.
   Scott

On Oct 14, 10:34 am, LBleriot gary.sch...@att.net wrote:
 I have been using one for the past year.  The one nit I have to pick
 with it is that the VO bag is not tall enough.  It sits nicley on my
 Nitto rack, but there is no way that I can get it to work with a
 decaleur.  I have a 15cm head tube, and no matter how I mount or bend
 the decaleur, the prongs will not fit.  It simply lifts the bag off
 the rack.  As a result, I've taken to reversing the prongs and using
 the decaleur for just a bit of stability.  Rubber bands or ties from
 the side loops to the handlebars also help.  Other than the fit issue,
 the bag suits my purposes, is fairly well made, and the price can't be
 beat.

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-14 Thread Patrick in VT
On Oct 14, 9:19 am, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've had excellent luck with the Challenge Grifo XS tires -
 the low profile tread grips well and they VERY speedy when mixed
 terrain returns to pavement. These feel quite cushy for 32mm tire -
 worth the $$$ IMO.

I run the tubular version of these for cx.  sweet tire for mixed
terrain - like frickin' velcro at low pressure (I run mine at about
25-30psi).  rubber is very soft though - wouldn't recommend them if
lots of pavement is involved.

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[RBW] Re: VO Campagne handlebar review?

2010-10-14 Thread Mike
A smaller HB bag holds less stuff, which is fine for shorter rides or
smaller people. Certainly not everyone needs a GB 28 but if you're
gonna go to the trouble of mounting a bag on a front rack and using a
decauler you might as well get something that's proportional to your
bike. Perhaps the VO bag is a good size for the OP's bike. I like that
GB makes 3 sizes of bags. They also make a Klick Fit model that
doesn't require a front rack although it does mount the bag higher up
as it attachs to the handlebars. Carradice has a similar version.

Yes, Peter White does sell GB products, as does Wallbike. I'm not sure
if Harris Cyclery does anymore, they used to. The other vendors are
fine, Mike Kone was just exceptionally friendly and easy to work with.

--mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: Headlands Ride Report - Now Tam

2010-10-14 Thread Ray Shine
You might be right, Phil, about the stem.  The stem is short.  Also, the bars 
are level with the seat.  I wonder if lowering them a bit would have helped?





From: Phil Bickford phi...@sonic.net
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, October 14, 2010 11:07:20 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Headlands Ride Report - Now Tam

Hey Ray -

you might benefit from a longer stem, or shifting your weight wwaay up
on the saddle nose, or riding a knobbier/softer tire.

Sounds like fun, it's been years since I've been up in the Sierra.
Big granite is a blast.

My2cents,

Phil B
 
 Anyway, I did OK, but in particularly rocky sections (boulders, not gravel) my
 front wheel kept coming off the surface when I was climbing,

 I was using the Bleriot, jitensha straight bars, and Fatty Rumkins.  Like I
 said, steep pitches or going over boulders up-grade and my front wheel kept
 popping off the surface.  Aside from my novice technique, would a better 
cockpit
 help me out more?  

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[RBW] Tire wear/wars (50% OT)

2010-10-14 Thread Angus
Just curious how the RBW bunch approaches tire wear.  I can only guess
that we cover all corners of the spectrum.

I view Rivendell's as long lasting, practical, bicycles that we don't
have to spend a ton of money to maintain...so why replace the tires as
the first sign of wear.

I have literally seen people buy a pair of $50 road tires immediately
prior to a club bike ride because they thought one tire was bad (it
seemed obvious to me that the tube was twisted leading to the bump
in the tire).

I, on the other hand, run the tires (on my Rivendell's) down until the
tube blows through the cords of a totally worn out Pasela.

This behavior is inspired by:
1.  A Scottish father...love ya Dad!
2.  Reading a story entitled The Tire War in a bicycle magazine many
years ago.

The group I rode MTBs with was always creating new contests...a tire
war fit the bill perfectly.
We all purchased new tires at the same time and whoever rode the
longest (by calendar not miles) on the tires won.  At first it was all
good funand then the knobs started wearing down.  I became adept
at sliding a MTB around the loose CA trails, sewing and booting cuts
in the side wall, avoiding riding on pavement and jumping off the bike
when traction had left me in a bad situation.  I spun out the bike
once...the back end got loose and as I corrected the slide the
rotation never stopped...I left the trail going backwards!  After a
couple of us ended up with stitches from sliding over rocks due to the
previously mentioned total lack of traction, the contest was
abandoned.

Maybe it wasn't such a good idea after all.

Angus

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Re: [RBW] Tire wear/wars (50% OT)

2010-10-14 Thread Seth Vidal
On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Just curious how the RBW bunch approaches tire wear.  I can only guess
 that we cover all corners of the spectrum.

 I view Rivendell's as long lasting, practical, bicycles that we don't
 have to spend a ton of money to maintain...so why replace the tires as
 the first sign of wear.

 I have literally seen people buy a pair of $50 road tires immediately
 prior to a club bike ride because they thought one tire was bad (it
 seemed obvious to me that the tube was twisted leading to the bump
 in the tire).



Maybe another interesting question:
 How many people buying a particular type of tire does it take before
you hit the bulk-discount price?

For example - if I love the pasela panaracers and maybe the jack brown
greens- how many do I need to buy before I see a discount on them.

if I know I'm going to go through N of them in the next few years -
how many other people do I need to go in on the purchase of them to
see a price difference.

inquiring minds want to know.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Getting Ready for Winter

2010-10-14 Thread Angus
David,

I tried Moustache bars but never got used to them.  I was allways
wishing for drop bars.

That's what makes this all so interesting...different things work best
for different people.

Angus

On Oct 10, 2:07 pm, David T. davidtren...@yahoo.ca wrote:
 I am gradually getting my Quickbeam ready for winter. I wanted a
 handlebar that is a bit more upright than my Noodles (which I really
 like.) I tried a “riser” bar, but couldn’t get the bar far enough
 forward. Even with a 13 cm X 90 degree stem, it still felt too
 cramped.

 So I got a Moustache.

 To summarize, this bar is a blast. It is better than the Noodle for
 rough terrain. It can’t replace the Noodle for long rides on smooth
 roads. But it provides a secure hold for riding over grass, dirt,
 broken pavement etc.

 It is better than a “riser” bar for riding on pavement and in mixed
 terrain, in my opinion. The wrists are in a more neutral position.
 Your hands are farther forward, so it provides a powerful pulling
 position, which is good on a single speed.

 Anyway, I am having fun with this bar. I am fitting up the bike with
 studded tires, but that can wait until the weather gets really bad.
 Then we will see how it does on snow and ice.

 Here are some pictures from today. We saw a wild turkey and two young
 ones; we made sure to approach them in a non-threatening manner, as
 today is Thanksgiving in Canada.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/51518...@n06/sets/72157625133245356/

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[RBW] Re: Tire wear/wars (50% OT)

2010-10-14 Thread benzzoy
On Oct 14, 7:22 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

 Maybe another interesting question:
 How many people buying a particular type of tire does it take before
 you hit the bulk-discount price?

At least for the Grand Bois, Bicycle Quarterly is offering about 10%
off if one purchases 4 or more.

Or perhaps you're thinking of a discount greater than that, like a
group buy where a group purchases directly from the manufacturer.

The logistics of coordinating such an event is fairly substantial and
may outweigh the savings such an event provides.  With tires, the
magic number may be around 100.  I'm basing this on a remark from Jan
Heine when Kirk Pacenti was introducing the Pari-Moto.  Jan postulated
that Kirk would be close to break-even (for mold cost) at 200 tires so
100 seems like a good number* if the tire manufacturer amortizes the
startup costs over thousands of tires.

If the number of participants is decreased to reduce the logistical
requirement, then each participant may need to buy a whole
lot...certainly more than what normal people would need, especially
if the tires concerned are high-mileage kinds.  Even a moderate-
mileage bike nut like myself would think long and hard at 20 units of
high-performance/low-mileage Grand Bois Cypress 700x30, but I may
consider it if it's 10 units (hint!).

Cheers,
B

* This is, of course, a WAG.

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[RBW] Re: Tire wear/wars (50% OT)

2010-10-14 Thread doug peterson
Tires have a shelf life.  I wouldn't get too many years ahead of
myself.

My guess is any discount would be on identical tires or perhaps a mix
of sizes of the same tire.  On the Riv rides I've been on, everyone
has their own idea of the best tire, with little agreement.  Now, if
we could just get 100 people to agree to all buy Schwalbe Marathon
Supremes, we'dprobably clean out all the stock in North America.

dougP

On Oct 14, 8:41 pm, benzzoy benz...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Oct 14, 7:22 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Maybe another interesting question:
  How many people buying a particular type of tire does it take before
  you hit the bulk-discount price?

 At least for the Grand Bois, Bicycle Quarterly is offering about 10%
 off if one purchases 4 or more.

 Or perhaps you're thinking of a discount greater than that, like a
 group buy where a group purchases directly from the manufacturer.

 The logistics of coordinating such an event is fairly substantial and
 may outweigh the savings such an event provides.  With tires, the
 magic number may be around 100.  I'm basing this on a remark from Jan
 Heine when Kirk Pacenti was introducing the Pari-Moto.  Jan postulated
 that Kirk would be close to break-even (for mold cost) at 200 tires so
 100 seems like a good number* if the tire manufacturer amortizes the
 startup costs over thousands of tires.

 If the number of participants is decreased to reduce the logistical
 requirement, then each participant may need to buy a whole
 lot...certainly more than what normal people would need, especially
 if the tires concerned are high-mileage kinds.  Even a moderate-
 mileage bike nut like myself would think long and hard at 20 units of
 high-performance/low-mileage Grand Bois Cypress 700x30, but I may
 consider it if it's 10 units (hint!).

 Cheers,
 B

 * This is, of course, a WAG.

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[RBW] Re: Riv'sh Parts Garage Sale...

2010-10-14 Thread EdM
All sold...Thanks to all who responded.


On Oct 12, 2:13 pm, EdM eman1...@optonline.net wrote:
 Thanks a bunch. Here's the revised version for distribution. Thanks
 again.

 Hi Folks,
 That time of the year to clean house and offer part/components/
 clothing to fellow Rivendell lovers. All pricing include shipping to
 CONUS. Pictures upon request.

 -Brooks B66 - Black, no marks, great shape $70
 -Paul Stoplights Cantilever Brakeset - Front/Rear, Black, Peace Sign
 brake hangers (very cool), KoolStop salmon pads $60
 -Wool Clothing Collection - 3 in total. Med-Lrg. S/S Blue
 ItalySantini, S/S Bianchi Celeste with White Chest Panel, S/S Yellow
 Cycles Wolf Red Chest Panel.  Will throw in wool Kucharik shorts and
 wool Sergal Winter Pants. All in good-excellent condition, hardly used
 $125
 -Cook Brothers Road Crankset - 130 BCD with 48/38 rings $50
 -Cane Creek 27.2 Thudbuster L/T seatpost - used once, takes the edge
 of your hardtail. Don't have a frame to use it on $75
 -Mustache H/B Cockpit - Mungo 26.0 bars, Dura Ace 9 speed bar end
 shifters, Nude Drilled Modolo non-aero brake levers.  Had this setup
 on a previous project but converted to drop bars and D/T shifters -
 $85

 PEACE.
 EdM

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[RBW] wtb: Nigel Smythe country bag

2010-10-14 Thread Eric
If anyone out there wants to part w/ their Nigel Smythe country bag,
I'm your man!
Interested in a non-tweed version. They made those, correct? Thanks!

- Eric

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[RBW] free: Riv Wool Stubby hats

2010-10-14 Thread Eric
I have (2) two, new Riv Wool Stubby hats. Free to a good home. I'd
appreciate some change me change for postage. Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] free: Riv Wool Stubby hats

2010-10-14 Thread David Faller

 Can I claim one?!

Redding Dave

On 10/14/2010 3:57 PM, Eric wrote:

I have (2) two, new Riv Wool Stubby hats. Free to a good home. I'd
appreciate some change me change for postage. Thanks!





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Re: [RBW] Re: Headlands Ride Report - Now Tam

2010-10-14 Thread CycloFiend
on 10/14/10 6:32 PM, Ray Shine at r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

You might be right, Phil, about the stem.  The stem is short.  Also, the
bars are level with the seat.  I wonder if lowering them a bit would have
helped?

On super steep climbs, you can actually stay stuck by pulling down on the
bars.  The trick is to bend your elbows so they are beneath the level of the
bars, then concentrate on pulling down with your elbows towards the ground.
It's kind of hard to envision, but when you're riding, it makes sense.

There's also the essential skill of learning the pounce position - moving
forward when you come off the saddle and curling your body as much as you
can. You look a bit ike a cat about to pounce.  You keep your butt back so
the rear wheel stays stuck, but you are over the bars to keep them tacked
down.  Takes a little practice.

- Jim 

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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