[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?
Thank you for the suggestions. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Slickersack Improvement
that is absolutely awesome. On Monday, April 16, 2012 9:22:59 PM UTC-4, Smitty wrote: I've been using a Slickersack on and off for a couple months. One of the reasons I don't use it sometimes is that it can't be easily put back on the bike when it's full of stuff. The strap/snap configuration it comes with is easy to remove. And it's easy to install if the bag... er... um... sack is empty, but if it's full of stuff it's a pain to get a hand in there to press on the back of the snap from inside the bag. It seemed that a turn button fastener would make my Slickersack go on that much easier and that would in turn make it more useful. Once upon a time I ran a marine canvas shop so I had all the stuff laying around but it's available in any chandlery for a few dollars. Step-by-step pics herehttps://picasaweb.google.com/113148323994353762329/SlickersackImprovement?authuser=0feat=directlink -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/H6c43uSJ2_AJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Bi-State s36o... Cascadia Style
doc -- poles on the TT... good idea... noted. mike -- I'm thinking I'll come out for one or both of the 100k in May and am thinking more and more about the 200k at the end of June. Ed G. and I were talking over the weekend about increasing distance and he was encouraging. But I might be distracted by camping and use my spousal hall pass for overnighters instead. A 3day/2night mini tour sounds pretty fun. --Andy On Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:01:21 PM UTC-7, Smitty wrote: In case you haven't looked at a map lately... the southern WA Cascades are pretty accessible from Portland, OR. A buddy laid out the route to Sunset Falls and invited me along with he and some other bike camping friends. I've been on a coupe multi-night bike camping trips with my family but this was my first s24o type trip. I was gone from home for about 32 hours... so s36o seems a little more technically accurate. Pics give some sort of idea what it was like... but you really had to be therehttps://picasaweb.google.com/113148323994353762329/SunsetFallsS36oApril2012?authuser=0feat=directlink . --Smitty -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/Z77s_yXTLD8J. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: New SimpleOne
I had SKS fenders with QRs in the back for a long time. They work pretty well, but mine got pretty ragged looking after several years. I think I went through two sets before I got some VO zeppelin fenders. They also work pretty well, but the stays could be more secure where they mount to the frame. That comes in handy with tire removal, though, because I can usually just snudge the stays out of their mounts a few mm to get the inflated 38mm tire out. the axle is pretty close to the mouth of the dropouts, so it's easier to drop the wheel out. Smaller tires mean the axle's further forward, which means you need more slack to get the tire past the fender. It's almost counter-intuitive, but it seems to work for me. Pics: http://www.biketinker.com/2012/fine-bikes/state-of-the-quickbeam-3-3-12/ Philip Philip Williamson www.biketinker.com On Monday, April 16, 2012 5:55:02 PM UTC-7, EricP wrote: Wasn't able to resist any longer. Snagged a 60cm SimpleOne a week ago. Frame arrived today. Spent the afternoon putting it together. Yes, Rivendell's packing is as good as possible. Had to work to get it out of the box. Then spent a good chunk of the afternoon putting the bike together. In general things went smooth, although I did shatter a plastic fender. Pics here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/14126468@N05/sets/72157629469808006/ Glad I did this, even though the bike is technically on the small side. With a 9cm stem, the bars are just where I want them. There is probably too much seatpost showing for some. That may go down a bit once I ride it a bit. Feels about 1cm too high. Also need to add fenders and a rack. Maybe a kickstand. To folks that own a SimpleOne or Quickbeam - what is the preferred fender SKS with the quick release in back, or Berthoud? Really looking forward to riding this bike. Eric Platt St. Paul, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/Tj9HP4Nj5JsJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Bi-State s36o... Cascadia Style
Smitty wrote: I might be distracted by camping and use my spousal hall pass for overnighters instead. A 3day/2night mini tour sounds pretty fun. --Andy More and more that's what I'm thinking. I feel much more excited and enthused about a 3 day tour consisting of 3 100 mile days than the 1200k over a set route and all that. I think I'm feeling just a little burned out and it's only April. I've already done two 200ks and multiple 100 mile rides this year. I'm excited about the weekends 300k but have absolutely no interest in the 400k following that. I hate that distance. But camping bike camping--long days followed by a campfire and a night in the woods... that just seems perfect and very very appealing. I'll definitely be at the summer 200k if I bail on the Cascade. Hopefully I'll see you around town before that. --mike -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: New SimpleOne
Another option: How about having a fenderless bike? You already have three that have fenders. On Monday, April 16, 2012 7:55:02 PM UTC-5, EricP wrote: Wasn't able to resist any longer. Snagged a 60cm SimpleOne a week ago. Frame arrived today. Spent the afternoon putting it together. Yes, Rivendell's packing is as good as possible. Had to work to get it out of the box. Then spent a good chunk of the afternoon putting the bike together. In general things went smooth, although I did shatter a plastic fender. Pics here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/14126468@N05/sets/72157629469808006/ Glad I did this, even though the bike is technically on the small side. With a 9cm stem, the bars are just where I want them. There is probably too much seatpost showing for some. That may go down a bit once I ride it a bit. Feels about 1cm too high. Also need to add fenders and a rack. Maybe a kickstand. To folks that own a SimpleOne or Quickbeam - what is the preferred fender SKS with the quick release in back, or Berthoud? Really looking forward to riding this bike. Eric Platt St. Paul, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/EZT3DVWoqboJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] WTB: Nitto Saddlebag Grip R-50 one Schwalbe Marathon 700x47 tire
Does anyone have one of these Nitto Saddlbag grips that they'd like to turn into cash?: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r13.htm Also, I have a single Schwalbe Marathon 700x47 tire, and I'm looking for another (used is fine) to make a pair. http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/t001.htm Please contact off list. cheers, Andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Slickersack Improvement
Very cool! I really would like those fasteners on my ss. Page bookmarked. Jim in Boulder On Monday, April 16, 2012 7:22:59 PM UTC-6, Smitty wrote: I've been using a Slickersack on and off for a couple months. One of the reasons I don't use it sometimes is that it can't be easily put back on the bike when it's full of stuff. The strap/snap configuration it comes with is easy to remove. And it's easy to install if the bag... er... um... sack is empty, but if it's full of stuff it's a pain to get a hand in there to press on the back of the snap from inside the bag. It seemed that a turn button fastener would make my Slickersack go on that much easier and that would in turn make it more useful. Once upon a time I ran a marine canvas shop so I had all the stuff laying around but it's available in any chandlery for a few dollars. Step-by-step pics herehttps://picasaweb.google.com/113148323994353762329/SlickersackImprovement?authuser=0feat=directlink -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/Vd6TUH6gAzwJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: New chain skipping
I tried looking at the cog but I can't tell much. I'm not very mechanical. I'll look at the chainring too. It wasn't knocked out of adjustment because I watched him install it. I checked the master link. It looks ok. It may be the derailleur but I have friction shifters so I wouldn't think it was that. I'm not going to make any adjustments. I'll take it back to the LBS to check. It's not very often - just twice in 14 miles yesterday. And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain ring. That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the time. On Apr 16, 11:32 am, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: Only skipping in smallest cog makes me think it is a deraileur adjustment, maybe they knocked it out of whack a bit on the install. Did you try adjusting the tension back there? I dont know your level of expertise but if you havent done this kind of thing before just remember to go slow and make small adjustments or else you will have it back at the LBS paying them to do it. The late great Sheldon Brown has a few articles on the net about it. On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:26 AM, pam pamelamurra...@gmail.com wrote: More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from Rivendell. I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain. The new chain does have a master link. If the cassette is worn, do I replace the whole thing? I've only noticed the skipping in the smallest cog. Can the cog just be replaced or the whole thing? I'll look at the cog and try to see. On Apr 15, 8:39 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Pam, I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn. You'll know if the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin. Matt On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote: I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out. The new one occasionally skips. The old one never did. What's the problem? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
RE: [RBW] Re: New SimpleOne
I like the bendiness of Woody's flat fenders -- I leave the back stay long; loosen the nut, and it's easy to bend the fender to get the wheel in and out. Here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4411489431/in/set-72157623567913352 Purty, too: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4412267966/in/set-72157623567913352 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Philip Williamson Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 11:54 AM To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: [RBW] Re: New SimpleOne I had SKS fenders with QRs in the back for a long time. They work pretty well, but mine got pretty ragged looking after several years. I think I went through two sets before I got some VO zeppelin fenders. They also work pretty well, but the stays could be more secure where they mount to the frame. That comes in handy with tire removal, though, because I can usually just snudge the stays out of their mounts a few mm to get the inflated 38mm tire out. the axle is pretty close to the mouth of the dropouts, so it's easier to drop the wheel out. Smaller tires mean the axle's further forward, which means you need more slack to get the tire past the fender. It's almost counter-intuitive, but it seems to work for me. Pics: http://www.biketinker.com/2012/fine-bikes/state-of-the-quickbeam-3-3-12/ Philip Philip Williamson www.biketinker.com On Monday, April 16, 2012 5:55:02 PM UTC-7, EricP wrote: Wasn't able to resist any longer. Snagged a 60cm SimpleOne a week ago. Frame arrived today. Spent the afternoon putting it together. Yes, Rivendell's packing is as good as possible. Had to work to get it out of the box. Then spent a good chunk of the afternoon putting the bike together. In general things went smooth, although I did shatter a plastic fender. Pics here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/14126468@N05/sets/72157629469808006/ Glad I did this, even though the bike is technically on the small side. With a 9cm stem, the bars are just where I want them. There is probably too much seatpost showing for some. That may go down a bit once I ride it a bit. Feels about 1cm too high. Also need to add fenders and a rack. Maybe a kickstand. To folks that own a SimpleOne or Quickbeam - what is the preferred fender SKS with the quick release in back, or Berthoud? Really looking forward to riding this bike. Eric Platt St. Paul, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/Tj9HP4Nj5JsJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any tax-related matters addressed herein. This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any email) and any printout thereof. Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their professional qualifications will be provided upon request. == -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago
Congratulations on your new bike. I've spent the last few months trying to convince myself that it is okay to pull the trigger on my first Rivendell. In fact, I've come close a few times to purchasing one of the new blue 56 Sam's as well. When you finally do get the bike, I hope that it brings a big smile to your face. On Thursday, April 12, 2012 8:16:33 PM UTC-4, cbone97 wrote: Just wanted to share the joy. My first Riv and my first bike in a long while (since mountain biking in college about 12-13 years ago). Late last year I was looking hard at the Hunq but at a PBH of 87.5, felt I was on the fence between sizes and couldn't commit. The 56 Sam should be perfect and I really like the new blue. I'm planning to go with Falcon friction shifters, Albatross or Bosco bar, and the biggest Marathons I can run on a set of Velocity Dyad wheels - probably fender-less. I already have a Brooks B68 and Lambda / Grip King pedals. Hopefully I can recycle the XT derailers, XT rear hub, and White Industries front hub off my old, barely used mtn bike. I like the idea/looks of the crank chainguard as shown on Riv's blue Sam pic. Not sure if it'd be best to get the two speed crank that comes with this guard or add it to the standard XD2. Any opinions? And does anyone have a Sackville XS saddlebag in grid gray they'd sell? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/0WcBbXWWiu0J. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: New chain skipping
I mean this in the nicest possible way, but unless I'm misunderstanding something terribly, there's no way you should be spending 70% of your time riding in your highest gear. It makes my knees hurt just thinking about it. You should be trying to ride in approximately the 90-100RPM range. Spinners might tell you higher. Mashers might tell you lower. 90-100 is a good medium. If I was riding in my highest gear at 90RPM, I'd be going 30MPH. I use my highest gear much less than 1% of the time. Completely separate from drivetrain wear, I recommend you get some advice on that front. Focussing on drivetrain wear, if you ride 2700 miles on a single 12 or 11 tooth cog, it's probably worn out. Replace. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:59:56 AM UTC-7, pam wrote: I tried looking at the cog but I can't tell much. I'm not very mechanical. I'll look at the chainring too. It wasn't knocked out of adjustment because I watched him install it. I checked the master link. It looks ok. It may be the derailleur but I have friction shifters so I wouldn't think it was that. I'm not going to make any adjustments. I'll take it back to the LBS to check. It's not very often - just twice in 14 miles yesterday. And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain ring. That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the time. On Apr 16, 11:32 am, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: Only skipping in smallest cog makes me think it is a deraileur adjustment, maybe they knocked it out of whack a bit on the install. Did you try adjusting the tension back there? I dont know your level of expertise but if you havent done this kind of thing before just remember to go slow and make small adjustments or else you will have it back at the LBS paying them to do it. The late great Sheldon Brown has a few articles on the net about it. On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:26 AM, pam pamelamurra...@gmail.com wrote: More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from Rivendell. I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain. The new chain does have a master link. If the cassette is worn, do I replace the whole thing? I've only noticed the skipping in the smallest cog. Can the cog just be replaced or the whole thing? I'll look at the cog and try to see. On Apr 15, 8:39 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Pam, I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll know if the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin. Matt On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote: I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out. The new one occasionally skips. The old one never did. What's the problem? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/omtfxlaKv0cJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] While working pedicab...
Most of my time while I'm working pedicab I'm admiring other people's bikes. Here and there I see a Rivendell. While in front of the ferry building last Saturday whie waiting for fares I notice a very familiar Homer with a basket. I told myself that looks like Grant's bike. And low and behold it the rider riding it was Grant. I figured he was in the city to check out the book signing of Eben W at the Rapha store. Found some pictures that proved my suspicions. http://flic.kr/s/aHsjyXNGps http://flic.kr/s/aHsjyWLu2C For once these pictures aren't mine. -Manny -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/wWfqDsu1O1cJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?
Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy front/rear
combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have considered to
be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them for 25 mountainy
miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got a front
goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in about a
dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I have used,
ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record for me in the
future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire is shaken
and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more effort into
scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the road
instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~;
.
When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them
with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park
digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly
Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of
these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire
comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is
just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating
weight.
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Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping
On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 12:33 -0700, William wrote: I mean this in the nicest possible way, but unless I'm misunderstanding something terribly, there's no way you should be spending 70% of your time riding in your highest gear. It makes my knees hurt just thinking about it. He said 70% of his time in the big ring, not in his highest gear. If your big ring is geared low enough, for example a 46 or 48T, you might not have to shift to a smaller chain ring until you need a gear lower than 50 inches or so. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: New chain skipping
Ah ha! You ride in this smallest cog most of the time! Take another look but the back side of the teeth on that cog are most likely cupped (increasing slope of the tooth until it becomes an overhang near the top). This is good news as buying a new final cog is easy and much cheaper than a whole cassette. This is also bad news as you are riding in your biggest gear all the time. Something is wrong here. You either need much higher gearing, or more likely, your leg speed is really slow and you need to learn to use your gears more efficently. You want a leg speed of something at or greater to 70 rpm on the flats, 90 rpm is better. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 11:59:56 AM UTC-6, pam wrote: I tried looking at the cog but I can't tell much. I'm not very mechanical. I'll look at the chainring too. It wasn't knocked out of adjustment because I watched him install it. I checked the master link. It looks ok. It may be the derailleur but I have friction shifters so I wouldn't think it was that. I'm not going to make any adjustments. I'll take it back to the LBS to check. It's not very often - just twice in 14 miles yesterday. And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain ring. That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the time. On Apr 16, 11:32 am, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: Only skipping in smallest cog makes me think it is a deraileur adjustment, maybe they knocked it out of whack a bit on the install. Did you try adjusting the tension back there? I dont know your level of expertise but if you havent done this kind of thing before just remember to go slow and make small adjustments or else you will have it back at the LBS paying them to do it. The late great Sheldon Brown has a few articles on the net about it. On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:26 AM, pam pamelamurra...@gmail.com wrote: More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from Rivendell. I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain. The new chain does have a master link. If the cassette is worn, do I replace the whole thing? I've only noticed the skipping in the smallest cog. Can the cog just be replaced or the whole thing? I'll look at the cog and try to see. On Apr 15, 8:39 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Pam, I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll know if the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin. Matt On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote: I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out. The new one occasionally skips. The old one never did. What's the problem? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/hCa03hmuMaQJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping
And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain ring. That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the time. I must've misread it then. I see that telling me smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain ringprobably 70% of the time. I agree 70% of the time in the large chainring (mine's a 44) is not controversial. But I use my 44x11 less than 1% of the time. If I used my 44x11 for 2700 miles my knees would be gone, and that 11T cog would be shot. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:59:50 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 12:33 -0700, William wrote: I mean this in the nicest possible way, but unless I'm misunderstanding something terribly, there's no way you should be spending 70% of your time riding in your highest gear. It makes my knees hurt just thinking about it. He said 70% of his time in the big ring, not in his highest gear. If your big ring is geared low enough, for example a 46 or 48T, you might not have to shift to a smaller chain ring until you need a gear lower than 50 inches or so. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/XZIC0sgF48QJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?
I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos. I flat almost every ride with
Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else. I've put them back on
with Foss tubes to try again. I like the ride of them, but the flat record
is pretty bad for me. For me it's been glass.
On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy
front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have
considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them for
25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got
a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in
about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I
have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record for
me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire
is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more effort
into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the
road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~;
.
When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them
with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park
digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly
Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of
these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire
comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is
just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating
weight.
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[RBW] Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/YFoX6yorjLcJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping
On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 13:26 -0700, William wrote: I agree 70% of the time in the large chainring (mine's a 44) is not controversial. But I use my 44x11 less than 1% of the time. If I used my 44x11 for 2700 miles my knees would be gone, and that 11T cog would be shot. And I agree with what you just said. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping
...and I agree with you agreeing with me... On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:54:38 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 13:26 -0700, William wrote: I agree 70% of the time in the large chainring (mine's a 44) is not controversial. But I use my 44x11 less than 1% of the time. If I used my 44x11 for 2700 miles my knees would be gone, and that 11T cog would be shot. And I agree with what you just said. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/ALIWvzpeqwsJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
The remedies for throwing chains I've used is careful adjustment of the front derailer, and making those front shifts gently. One rule of them which will contribute to shifting this way is shift before you need to. If you're approaching an incline that will require the granny ring, go ahead and drop down to it before you're at the bottom of the rear gears, then gradually downshift the rear as you start climbing. This has the dual benefits of getting your legs spinning before you hit the hill, and moving the chain slower, and under no load. Whether climbing or descending, the rule of thumb I use came from Ned Overend (old moutain bike racer): Choose the front ring you need for conditions, then fine tune with the rear. I hope this was of some help to you. Joe Bernard Vallejo, CA. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:44:51 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/KQcVg7_T-iEJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: While working pedicab...
only tangentially related. When I was there at the Rapha store last, Pineapple Bob was there buying a freaking grip of Rouleur magazines. Manny, I was there the day after our 100k. My wife gave me permission to buy a Rapha rain jacket! Score! On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:46:28 PM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote: Most of my time while I'm working pedicab I'm admiring other people's bikes. Here and there I see a Rivendell. While in front of the ferry building last Saturday whie waiting for fares I notice a very familiar Homer with a basket. I told myself that looks like Grant's bike. And low and behold it the rider riding it was Grant. I figured he was in the city to check out the book signing of Eben W at the Rapha store. Found some pictures that proved my suspicions. http://flic.kr/s/aHsjyXNGps http://flic.kr/s/aHsjyWLu2C For once these pictures aren't mine. -Manny -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/3z10TkcyRSkJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Questions on Carradice Barley
Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help anyone can offer. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley
Carradice Barley and the Acorn Boxy Rando Bag are my two main bags. You can fit an amazing amount of stuff into a Barley Bag. I use mine with the Carradice SQR, which I also really like but I think if your bike is tall enough with enough seatpost to keep the bag off the fender or tire I you could get along without a support. Carradice makes a bag support that attaches to the saddle rails but I'm not sure if that would work with a sprung saddle, and some people have reported difficulty keeping it tight.. The SQR attaches to the seat post and is absolutely the quickest on off the bike you can get. I have an extra seat post attachment so I can move the bag between bikes. Harris Cycles carries all the parts. BTW, the Carradice site could lead you to believe that the SQR goes with an SQR designed bag; that's not true, almost any bag with saddle seatpost straps will work. It does allow some back and forth movement which I notice while climbing standing up, but there is no lateral movement at all. Short answer... a great bag. Michael On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 5:36:31 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote: Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help anyone can offer. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/wCqR7ML38QYJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by throwing chains on the big granny gear, but assume you mean the chain overshifts and falls to the outside of the ring. If so there are three possible causes. The limit screws in the F dr may need to be tightened just a bit. You can also buy a chain stopper, which sits on the seat tube and prevents the chain from going past the ring. The only time I throw the chain across the big ring is when I try to shift the ring up while costing downhill. Don't do that! What front derailler are you using what ring combination? Some work better than others. Joe's advice is good. I would add that friction shifting a triple requires some finesse. Unlike a double you can not just slam the shifters around. You have to ease the shifter, even when you are shifting rapidly, as in rolling terrain. It sounds like you understand most of the basics, so just relax. I like friction shifters for a couple of reasons - they are very fast across a wide range of cogs and they require some skill, which adds to the fun of my riding. Are you using bar end or down tube. The former are easier to learn on and use, the latter are faster can be done one handed. Michael On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/vk_BtvNpy00J. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley
The Barley Bag is very nice. I didn't need any support for it. The Barley fists quite nicely tucked under the saddle and strapped to the seat post. I have no information on the B72. On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help anyone can offer. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
I have thrown the chain off the outside ring (i.e. the chain goes too far outside) and off the inside ring (i.e. it goes too far inside). I have fiddled with the limit screws and followed the riv install a derailer video, by my eye things look right. Setup questions: I have the Alpina FD 8 speed casette Sugino 46 36 24 crank Joe - what do you mean by choosing the front ring by conditions - can you elaborate? I have tried shifting slowly/lightly and also more quickly, and have had the same problems (chain throwing, slipping under load). On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/8o5sJ6mgBnYJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley
Yep. I'll agree with all points. The barley is a fantastic sized bag. It holds a surprising amount of stuff and I often call it my tardis bag. One aspect I really like are the two side pockets that allow for a bit of organization. I keep the right pocket packed with spare tube, patch kit, C02, and multi tool, the right one perfectly holds my digital camera for quick access. That leaves the main pouch open for food, clothes, entertainment, supplies etc. The Barley was the first bag I purchased and has done everything I've needed. I have loaded it to the gills and never used a bag support. It's close to the tire when stuffed, but never hit. PBH of 85. Previously mine 52 Bomba with the Barleyhttp://farm5.staticflickr.com/4046/4456242586_a716dfd4aa_z.jpg -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/Zed_aa5t7W0J. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: One way to shorten a Honjo fender (Fixed, kinda.)
Little brother shall be referred to as THOR! That fender now has a history which makes it more valuable. Thumbs up and bravo. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/U8zbP-tXEroJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] ISO nitto mustache bars
Anyone have a spare set of mustache bars lying around? I am not convinced that I will like them but I want to give them a try. I am open to just the bars by themselves or complete setups with brakes, stem, and shifters. Respond offlist please to help keep down the cutter. Thanks JL -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
I'm not familiar with that derailler. Make sure the derailler is only a couple of mm above the big ring. Some deraillers, including the popular 105, have such a long cage that they cannot be lowered down to a 46 ring without hitting the chain stay. I use the Campy, which has a pretty short cage and allows me to go right down to my 44 big ring. Also, when the chain is on the big ring and small cog the outside of the derailler should be about 5 mm from the chain. Ditto on the inside. With a triple, I always use a chain stop on the inside. Slipping under load? do you mean on the rings? That suggest worn teeth. Check for teeth that have a hook in their profile. If you mean on the cogs, make sure the D rings are tight. I use Silver Shifters and find the D rings stay pretty tight on the DT shifters but I regularly retighten the D rings on my my wife's BE shifters. After that you are probably experiencing a worn chain or cog teeth. michael On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:05:41 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I have thrown the chain off the outside ring (i.e. the chain goes too far outside) and off the inside ring (i.e. it goes too far inside). I have fiddled with the limit screws and followed the riv install a derailer video, by my eye things look right. Setup questions: I have the Alpina FD 8 speed casette Sugino 46 36 24 crank Joe - what do you mean by choosing the front ring by conditions - can you elaborate? I have tried shifting slowly/lightly and also more quickly, and have had the same problems (chain throwing, slipping under load). On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/-2bgi0HHhLUJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
From the Master (Sheldon Brown): Everything you need to know about chain wear, skipping, etc.: http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html --Eric N On Apr 17, 2012, at 4:34 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote: I'm not familiar with that derailler. Make sure the derailler is only a couple of mm above the big ring. Some deraillers, including the popular 105, have such a long cage that they cannot be lowered down to a 46 ring without hitting the chain stay. I use the Campy, which has a pretty short cage and allows me to go right down to my 44 big ring. Also, when the chain is on the big ring and small cog the outside of the derailler should be about 5 mm from the chain. Ditto on the inside. With a triple, I always use a chain stop on the inside. Slipping under load? do you mean on the rings? That suggest worn teeth. Check for teeth that have a hook in their profile. If you mean on the cogs, make sure the D rings are tight. I use Silver Shifters and find the D rings stay pretty tight on the DT shifters but I regularly retighten the D rings on my my wife's BE shifters. After that you are probably experiencing a worn chain or cog teeth. michael On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:05:41 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I have thrown the chain off the outside ring (i.e. the chain goes too far outside) and off the inside ring (i.e. it goes too far inside). I have fiddled with the limit screws and followed the riv install a derailer video, by my eye things look right. Setup questions: I have the Alpina FD 8 speed casette Sugino 46 36 24 crank Joe - what do you mean by choosing the front ring by conditions - can you elaborate? I have tried shifting slowly/lightly and also more quickly, and have had the same problems (chain throwing, slipping under load). On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/-2bgi0HHhLUJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley
My Carradice bags, Barley and Nelson LF, have seen quite a bit of use over the years: http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=41335973@N00q=carradice You definitely don't need supports with either of them. I picked up supports through Wiggle a few years ago because they were so cheap and they do make it easier to root around in the bag but they're not essential. One thing about the Barley is that it moves around a lot, especially when pedaling standing up. For day trips when you want to bring extra items it's great. I'm hoping to do an ultralight weekend trip later this year using just my Berthoud HB bag and the Nelson. I should be able to manage. --mike -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike. It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than 1,000 miles I would imagine. slipping on the cogs, not the rings. have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain slip. I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help. was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the derailer stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on the riding. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/o-52SIuvHXAJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
If it's skipping around the rear cluster with Silver shifters, I'd suggest making sure the shifter bolt is tight. Also, I find that these shifters are at their best with 7/8sp cassettes or freewheels. With 9sp, the ratcheting is too imprecise for my tastes, but others report apparently satisfactory performance. Otherwise, try to soft-pedal when shifting, shift before you NEED to shift, and try to shift gracefully and in a controlled way rather than slamming the shifter into position with a wild motion. Probably nobody has discussed the finer points of the process because there isn't much to discuss. It's pretty unsophisticated (don't tell anyone). On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:45:28 PM UTC-5, Zack wrote: FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike. It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than 1,000 miles I would imagine. slipping on the cogs, not the rings. have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain slip. I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help. was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the derailer stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on the riding. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/jZGFn2bgYBoJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
Zack, I live in a hilly area so I use all three rings pretty often..this may not apply to your terrain. Like you, I ride flattish roads in the middle ring, but when approaching an incline I'll usually shift to the small ring up front before bottoming out the gears in back. So my conditions are granny-ring for up, middle-ring for flat, big-ring for downhill. I'm using the front shifting to establish the parameters, then fine-tuning with the rear. Now here's where this helps with overshifts on the front: Let's say you're in the middle ring, in the highest gear in back. Look down and what do you see? The chain is angling to the right to get to the smallest rear cog. Now you want to shift the front of the chain to the right, also, to get your highest gear. You're more likely to throw the chain past the chainring in this situation because the rest of the chain is veering that way. But let's say you're only in the *middle *rear cogs, then decide to shift the front . Less chance of overthrow, because the chain started out in more of a straight line front-to-back before the front shift. This works the other direction, too. You're more likely to overshift the granny if the chain is already all the way to the spokes in back. I'm sorry if that's not clear, feel free to keep asking questions. Btw, my Rivendell Romulus came to me with a similar drivetrain, and overshifted like the dickens when I first got it. It was a hard lesson.. Joe Bernard Vallejo, CA. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:45:28 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote: FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike. It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than 1,000 miles I would imagine. slipping on the cogs, not the rings. have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain slip. I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help. was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the derailer stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on the riding. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/9tXT03iy70QJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Soma San Marcos - New Build
I just ordered a San Marcos in 54cm. I'll probably build it up semi-Riv'ish, but with my own somewhat more contemporary touch of style. If it doesn't sell right away, it'll be here for inspection and testing for Grant's book signing on May 31. On Sunday, April 15, 2012 5:08:47 PM UTC-5, Vespa wrote: The frame has arrived (63) and is at the shop being built up with some 10 Speed Campy Veloce, and Zonda wheel set coming off another bike that is getting Campy 11 drivetrain. Won't be terribly retro but should be fun. Being built as a all- rounder out and about with the spouse bike - but secretly am saving it for a light tourer for a future Hwy 101 thing. Will post pics when all built - must say the paint was beautiful and very light for such a big frame with two top tubes -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/UQgQNlBeVfUJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: New SimpleOne
What? That's heresy. Ended up putting on a set of Berthoud fenders lying around the garage this morning. Took the lead from a SimpleOne owner in Washington DC who has similar fenders with long stays. Loosen the 3mm bolts and can move the fender to get the rear wheel out. At least that's the way it's supposed to work. Then took the bike out for a maiden voyage. Very comfortable. Climbs well and was very stable in descending. Did get the bike to around 35mph on one downhill. After stopping for lunch near Minnehaha Falls, stopped by Hiawatha Cyclery. While there, purchased and installed a rack for the bike (Racktime Foldit for those keeping score). Eventually am still hoping to get a Nitto R-14, but this will do in the meantime. More photos to prove it happened: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14126468@N05/sets/72157629469808006/ Eric Platt St. Paul, MN On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 11:56:13 AM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: Another option: How about having a fenderless bike? You already have three that have fenders. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/XlmnN2leYcsJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?
Another single data point.
Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I rode
an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 23
mm tires. (A gift). The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 4-5
miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, bad
pavement, and atrocious pavement. After the ride I recorded my time
subjective impressions (painful). I also discovered a cut in the sidewall
of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes
and ties. I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns. The first ride
was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more
comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek T Serve (30mm actual). My time
was right between the faster and slower rides the comfort just a nudge
below the JB. Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west (
it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and
the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose
sand, so it's really hard going now. Hard to make comparisons. I'm in
Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test
will be suspended for a while.
I'm not sure where this leaves me. I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green on
my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added flats.
Michael
On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos. I flat almost every ride with
Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else. I've put them back on
with Foss tubes to try again. I like the ride of them, but the flat record
is pretty bad for me. For me it's been glass.
On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy
front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have
considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them for
25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got
a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in
about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I
have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record for
me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire
is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more effort
into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the
road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~;
.
When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them
with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park
digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly
Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of
these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire
comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is
just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating
weight.
--
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[RBW] Platrack Slickersack Marks Rack Combo for sale
Ok, trying yet another setup on my bike and wanted to see if there was any interest in my old yet only used 2 times setup. I want to sell the Marks rack, slickersack and platrack as a group. Slickersack is in brand new condition, only used twice, Marks rack and platrack nuts have some marks on them from install but nothing structural, I am just a bit of a perfectionist so thought it was worth a mention. This was on my 650b Hilsen so I assume it would fit any 650b bike as it is cut now. I am not smart enough to tell if it would fit a 700c or 26 fork as it is configured but I imagine it would fit a 26 or 650B for sure. I will include a Elite Ciussi gel bottle holder in yellow if buyer wants it, it was shipped to me on accident in yellow so they sent a replacement and told me to keep this one but I think I will keep the Johns Irish strap. I will include all the hardware the Marks Rack came with but no guarantee I have every last strap and screw since I I will be digging them out of my bike box but should have just about everything. I for sure have everything to hook it up to a bike with eyelets like the Hilsen, Bomba, Atlantis, etc since it just came off of my Hilsen. Looking for $250 for the whole setup but open to reasonable offers. CONUS, paypal only please. Link to Flikr page with pics , email me if you need pics of anything in particular. Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago
Thanks. Believe me, I spent more than a few months. Nearly ordered a Hunq before the prices went up. Considered an LHT. In the end, I've told myself to take a chance and see if I can't be satisfied with Riv's bargain model. Will let everyone know about the big smile some time in early June, hopefully. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago
Congrats on ordering the Hillborne. I love mine and think it is the most comfortable bikes I have ever ridden. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 8:22:12 PM UTC-5, cbone97 wrote: Thanks. Believe me, I spent more than a few months. Nearly ordered a Hunq before the prices went up. Considered an LHT. In the end, I've told myself to take a chance and see if I can't be satisfied with Riv's bargain model. Will let everyone know about the big smile some time in early June, hopefully. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/MqnQhmrp0MwJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] FS: Frost River Panniers (the ones that were just on here last week)
Pics in an imgur album here -- http://imgur.com/a/fN5VH#0 So these are the same panniers I just purchased from Adam here on the group. They're just as he described; good condition, used, but good condition and lots of miles and years ahead of them. I tried them out, I guess I'm just a saddlesack guy rather than a pannier guy, whatever that means. Anyway, same deal he gave me is what I'm offering up. $100 for the panniers plus $15 for shipping. Did you miss out when I purchased them? OK, life is all about second chances :) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/PYfUoB5jmlQJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago
Congratulations! I was in the same situation as you when I ordered my Sam. Had a 14 year old Bontrager Privateer Comp that had been through many reincarnations and it was time to get something new and nice. I think you're going to look back at this as one of the best and most overdue decisions you ever made. In answer your question about the crankset; I went with the triple because they accidentally shipped it to me (I ordered the double with the guard). After riding it for awhile, I removed the big ring in favor of the guard and I've never looked back. I still wish I got the double to begin with because the gearing would be just a bit more useful. In my case, I bought the 12-36 cassette from Riv and I never quite get to low gear even living in hilly Seattle. The cassette would make more sense with the 42/30 double or whatever it is, for me at least. As for the big Marathons, you can go wicked big if you want. I got some 700x47 ones to try on my Sam and they fit no sweat, even (kinda sorta) with fenders. I usually just ride the 38 version though. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/uWNN6KE8M1UJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Platrack Slickersack Marks Rack Combo for sale
The subject line sounds like it could be a part of the signoff from NPR's Car Talk: ...and our executive producer Doug Free Lunch Berman, just back from the Hackensack Platrack, Slickersack, Mark's Rack, fatback, hardtack, lamb rack, Dry Sack and Monterey Jack On-Your-Back Snack Attack. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming. Bill On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:10:33 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: Ok, trying yet another setup on my bike and wanted to see if there was any interest in my old yet only used 2 times setup. I want to sell the Marks rack, slickersack and platrack as a group. Slickersack is in brand new condition, only used twice, Marks rack and platrack nuts have some marks on them from install but nothing structural, I am just a bit of a perfectionist so thought it was worth a mention. This was on my 650b Hilsen so I assume it would fit any 650b bike as it is cut now. I am not smart enough to tell if it would fit a 700c or 26 fork as it is configured but I imagine it would fit a 26 or 650B for sure. I will include a Elite Ciussi gel bottle holder in yellow if buyer wants it, it was shipped to me on accident in yellow so they sent a replacement and told me to keep this one but I think I will keep the Johns Irish strap. I will include all the hardware the Marks Rack came with but no guarantee I have every last strap and screw since I I will be digging them out of my bike box but should have just about everything. I for sure have everything to hook it up to a bike with eyelets like the Hilsen, Bomba, Atlantis, etc since it just came off of my Hilsen. Looking for $250 for the whole setup but open to reasonable offers. CONUS, paypal only please. Link to Flikr page with pics , email me if you need pics of anything in particular. Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/DMm_KC2s6CgJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis
My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in SLC). An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle. I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front. I'm planning a tour and wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack. I'm thinking of pulling the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front. Seems the Berthoud bag would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could hang the front panniers on as well. But,...wondering if there is some other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp on low-rider (Tubus? Bruce Gordon?). Is there a rack that would actually use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto? Suggestions with illustrative photos appreciated. D.G. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/Rl8X20oPUZ0J. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Platrack Slickersack Marks Rack Combo for sale
Haha, I thought the same thing writing it. Oh those whimsical Rivendellian names, love the alliteration! On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 10:33 PM, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote: The subject line sounds like it could be a part of the signoff from NPR's Car Talk: ...and our executive producer Doug Free Lunch Berman, just back from the Hackensack Platrack, Slickersack, Mark's Rack, fatback, hardtack, lamb rack, Dry Sack and Monterey Jack On-Your-Back Snack Attack. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming. Bill On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:10:33 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: Ok, trying yet another setup on my bike and wanted to see if there was any interest in my old yet only used 2 times setup. I want to sell the Marks rack, slickersack and platrack as a group. Slickersack is in brand new condition, only used twice, Marks rack and platrack nuts have some marks on them from install but nothing structural, I am just a bit of a perfectionist so thought it was worth a mention. This was on my 650b Hilsen so I assume it would fit any 650b bike as it is cut now. I am not smart enough to tell if it would fit a 700c or 26 fork as it is configured but I imagine it would fit a 26 or 650B for sure. I will include a Elite Ciussi gel bottle holder in yellow if buyer wants it, it was shipped to me on accident in yellow so they sent a replacement and told me to keep this one but I think I will keep the Johns Irish strap. I will include all the hardware the Marks Rack came with but no guarantee I have every last strap and screw since I I will be digging them out of my bike box but should have just about everything. I for sure have everything to hook it up to a bike with eyelets like the Hilsen, Bomba, Atlantis, etc since it just came off of my Hilsen. Looking for $250 for the whole setup but open to reasonable offers. CONUS, paypal only please. Link to Flikr page with pics , email me if you need pics of anything in particular. Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/DMm_KC2s6CgJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley
I have a Barley, no support needed for me on a 56 Riv Road. It's a nice size for a day ride in transitional weather, just big enough for the essentials and an extra layer or two of clothing. It's never been on a sprung Brooks, but have had my Nelson on a Champion Flyer. With the bag suspended from the sadldle loops, the springs cut way into the bag's capacity. I preferred it with the straps through the bottom coils of the springs even though it then sits more horizontal than I would like. The loop springs of a B72 may not pose so much of an issue. I don't think a Bagman would mount to a B72, so if you need a support the SQR would be the best bet. I suspect that on most bikes a Barley isn't big enough to rest on a Hupe. Bill Stockton, CA On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:36:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help anyone can offer. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/RkDBMn14JcoJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Platrack Slickersack Marks Rack Combo for sale
Chapeau! On Apr 17, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Bill M. wrote: The subject line sounds like it could be a part of the signoff from NPR's Car Talk: ...and our executive producer Doug Free Lunch Berman, just back from the Hackensack Platrack, Slickersack, Mark's Rack, fatback, hardtack, lamb rack, Dry Sack and Monterey Jack On-Your-Back Snack Attack. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming. Bill On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:10:33 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: Ok, trying yet another setup on my bike and wanted to see if there was any interest in my old yet only used 2 times setup. I want to sell the Marks rack, slickersack and platrack as a group. Slickersack is in brand new condition, only used twice, Marks rack and platrack nuts have some marks on them from install but nothing structural, I am just a bit of a perfectionist so thought it was worth a mention. This was on my 650b Hilsen so I assume it would fit any 650b bike as it is cut now. I am not smart enough to tell if it would fit a 700c or 26 fork as it is configured but I imagine it would fit a 26 or 650B for sure. I will include a Elite Ciussi gel bottle holder in yellow if buyer wants it, it was shipped to me on accident in yellow so they sent a replacement and told me to keep this one but I think I will keep the Johns Irish strap. I will include all the hardware the Marks Rack came with but no guarantee I have every last strap and screw since I I will be digging them out of my bike box but should have just about everything. I for sure have everything to hook it up to a bike with eyelets like the Hilsen, Bomba, Atlantis, etc since it just came off of my Hilsen. Looking for $250 for the whole setup but open to reasonable offers. CONUS, paypal only please. Link to Flikr page with pics , email me if you need pics of anything in particular. Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/DMm_KC2s6CgJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
Joe - Thank you for the response - perfect description, and also the exact opposite of what I have been doing. To some of you guys may just be intuitive or obvious, but it takes me a little bit to catch on to things. I will also tighten the silvers up again. It does seem like I have to * really* have them tight in order for them not to slip on the Sam. I had a Salsa Casseroll that had silvers which was not nearly as finnicky. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 8:09:35 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: Zack, I live in a hilly area so I use all three rings pretty often..this may not apply to your terrain. Like you, I ride flattish roads in the middle ring, but when approaching an incline I'll usually shift to the small ring up front before bottoming out the gears in back. So my conditions are granny-ring for up, middle-ring for flat, big-ring for downhill. I'm using the front shifting to establish the parameters, then fine-tuning with the rear. Now here's where this helps with overshifts on the front: Let's say you're in the middle ring, in the highest gear in back. Look down and what do you see? The chain is angling to the right to get to the smallest rear cog. Now you want to shift the front of the chain to the right, also, to get your highest gear. You're more likely to throw the chain past the chainring in this situation because the rest of the chain is veering that way. But let's say you're only in the *middle *rear cogs, then decide to shift the front . Less chance of overthrow, because the chain started out in more of a straight line front-to-back before the front shift. This works the other direction, too. You're more likely to overshift the granny if the chain is already all the way to the spokes in back. I'm sorry if that's not clear, feel free to keep asking questions. Btw, my Rivendell Romulus came to me with a similar drivetrain, and overshifted like the dickens when I first got it. It was a hard lesson.. Joe Bernard Vallejo, CA. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:45:28 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote: FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike. It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than 1,000 miles I would imagine. slipping on the cogs, not the rings. have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain slip. I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help. was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the derailer stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on the riding. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/EsJMV6TlPHgJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 7:46 PM, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote: I will also tighten the silvers up again. It does seem like I have to * really* have them tight in order for them not to slip on the Sam. I had a Salsa Casseroll that had silvers which was not nearly as finnicky. I had this issue on my Romulus a while back -- I couldn't seem to tighten the Silver shifter enough. It turns out that the square-hole washer was not seated well against the frame, and that was preventing proper adjustment of the shifter. I filed down the washer a little and it was fine after that. Horace. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?
What may seem intuitive to me today came from reading exactly the way you're doing now. It may be possible to teach oneself all the shifting tricks strictly from riding and doing, but I prefer to ask someone who already knows them. My front shifting approach was derived from a Bicycling Magazine article witten 20 years ago by Ned Overend..teaching mountain bike racing, of all things. It made sense; I tried it on the road; it worked. Joe Bernard Vallejo, CA. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:46:26 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote: Joe - Thank you for the response - perfect description, and also the exact opposite of what I have been doing. To some of you guys may just be intuitive or obvious, but it takes me a little bit to catch on to things. I will also tighten the silvers up again. It does seem like I have to * really* have them tight in order for them not to slip on the Sam. I had a Salsa Casseroll that had silvers which was not nearly as finnicky. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 8:09:35 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: Zack, I live in a hilly area so I use all three rings pretty often..this may not apply to your terrain. Like you, I ride flattish roads in the middle ring, but when approaching an incline I'll usually shift to the small ring up front before bottoming out the gears in back. So my conditions are granny-ring for up, middle-ring for flat, big-ring for downhill. I'm using the front shifting to establish the parameters, then fine-tuning with the rear. Now here's where this helps with overshifts on the front: Let's say you're in the middle ring, in the highest gear in back. Look down and what do you see? The chain is angling to the right to get to the smallest rear cog. Now you want to shift the front of the chain to the right, also, to get your highest gear. You're more likely to throw the chain past the chainring in this situation because the rest of the chain is veering that way. But let's say you're only in the *middle *rear cogs, then decide to shift the front . Less chance of overthrow, because the chain started out in more of a straight line front-to-back before the front shift. This works the other direction, too. You're more likely to overshift the granny if the chain is already all the way to the spokes in back. I'm sorry if that's not clear, feel free to keep asking questions. Btw, my Rivendell Romulus came to me with a similar drivetrain, and overshifted like the dickens when I first got it. It was a hard lesson.. Joe Bernard Vallejo, CA. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:45:28 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote: FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike. It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than 1,000 miles I would imagine. slipping on the cogs, not the rings. have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain slip. I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help. was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the derailer stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on the riding. On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have been thinking about it a bit - I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. But I never really learned the right way to do this. I have learned a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource. I know for many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift to either the big or small chainring. I am cognizant of cross gearing, but am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me to believe I am part of the problem. So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it should be treated? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/C5xujb6uRMgJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
[RBW] Re: Platrack Slickersack Marks Rack Combo for sale
Not sure how short you trimmed the struts to fit 650b. FWIW... The struts on my Platrack on my 700c AHH are 42cm. A new pair of 42cm struts from Riv is $20. http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/rh1-20077.htm On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:10:33 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: Ok, trying yet another setup on my bike and wanted to see if there was any interest in my old yet only used 2 times setup. I want to sell the Marks rack, slickersack and platrack as a group. Slickersack is in brand new condition, only used twice, Marks rack and platrack nuts have some marks on them from install but nothing structural, I am just a bit of a perfectionist so thought it was worth a mention. This was on my 650b Hilsen so I assume it would fit any 650b bike as it is cut now. I am not smart enough to tell if it would fit a 700c or 26 fork as it is configured but I imagine it would fit a 26 or 650B for sure. I will include a Elite Ciussi gel bottle holder in yellow if buyer wants it, it was shipped to me on accident in yellow so they sent a replacement and told me to keep this one but I think I will keep the Johns Irish strap. I will include all the hardware the Marks Rack came with but no guarantee I have every last strap and screw since I I will be digging them out of my bike box but should have just about everything. I for sure have everything to hook it up to a bike with eyelets like the Hilsen, Bomba, Atlantis, etc since it just came off of my Hilsen. Looking for $250 for the whole setup but open to reasonable offers. CONUS, paypal only please. Link to Flikr page with pics , email me if you need pics of anything in particular. Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/JESIBcRNDIQJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Platrack Slickersack Marks Rack Combo for sale
Hmm, so you didnt have to trim them at all to fit a 700c fork? I just measured them at a hair under 41cm, 40.8 to be exact. I assume then if you put them on a 26 fork you would have to trim them a bit more? On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 11:15 PM, Smitty 54ca...@gmail.com wrote: Not sure how short you trimmed the struts to fit 650b. FWIW... The struts on my Platrack on my 700c AHH are 42cm. A new pair of 42cm struts from Riv is $20. http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/rh1-20077.htm On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:10:33 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: Ok, trying yet another setup on my bike and wanted to see if there was any interest in my old yet only used 2 times setup. I want to sell the Marks rack, slickersack and platrack as a group. Slickersack is in brand new condition, only used twice, Marks rack and platrack nuts have some marks on them from install but nothing structural, I am just a bit of a perfectionist so thought it was worth a mention. This was on my 650b Hilsen so I assume it would fit any 650b bike as it is cut now. I am not smart enough to tell if it would fit a 700c or 26 fork as it is configured but I imagine it would fit a 26 or 650B for sure. I will include a Elite Ciussi gel bottle holder in yellow if buyer wants it, it was shipped to me on accident in yellow so they sent a replacement and told me to keep this one but I think I will keep the Johns Irish strap. I will include all the hardware the Marks Rack came with but no guarantee I have every last strap and screw since I I will be digging them out of my bike box but should have just about everything. I for sure have everything to hook it up to a bike with eyelets like the Hilsen, Bomba, Atlantis, etc since it just came off of my Hilsen. Looking for $250 for the whole setup but open to reasonable offers. CONUS, paypal only please. Link to Flikr page with pics , email me if you need pics of anything in particular. Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/JESIBcRNDIQJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis
I have a Nitto Mark's Rack and Tubus Tara combo setup on a 26 MTB- tourer... the Nitto for a small bag, and the Tubus for panniers... works nicely. I also have a Jandd Extreme front rack for another 26 MTB-tourer, which I also REALLY like. That said, my first choice (if cost wasn't a factor) would definitely be a Nitto Big Front... On Apr 17, 10:34 pm, Darin G. dbg...@mac.com wrote: My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in SLC). An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle. I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front. I'm planning a tour and wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack. I'm thinking of pulling the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front. Seems the Berthoud bag would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could hang the front panniers on as well. But,...wondering if there is some other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp on low-rider (Tubus? Bruce Gordon?). Is there a rack that would actually use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto? Suggestions with illustrative photos appreciated. D.G. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis
You could certainly go custom and keep the mini around. From what I understand, a regular low rider rack will sit at quite a jaunty angle on a Riv fork. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/VvojHFsMNcYJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley
Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a stranded in the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event. ; ) On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help anyone can offer. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
