[RBW] Re: Switching to Moustachios from drops?!?!

2012-12-06 Thread Joe Bernard
In my experience Moustache Bars take a shorter stem when switching from 
drops. At 7cm, you don't have much more shortening you can do. Also, with 
the same stem you won't be more upright than you were on the tops of 
dropbars. The Moustache has a drop from the stem. In your case it's free to 
try, so have at it, but you might want to consider something like an 
Albatross or North Road bar. 
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 9:58:14 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 PS - will the staches help me sit more upright, or not?



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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Matt Beebe
I've had the opposite experience with synergies and now dyad rims.I put 
at least 15K on a set of synergies in all seasons including lots fully 
loaded, and the very snowy and salty new england winter of 2010/11, and 
only had to replace them because the sidewalls/braking surface had worn way 
too thin for comfort.Mavic rims seemed to last well too, but I would 
reckon maybe you have hit a bad batch or something.



On Thursday, December 6, 2012 2:19:50 AM UTC-5, Tim wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear 
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity 
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early 
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another 
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles 
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and 
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a 
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that 
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard 
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more 
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so 
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are 
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is 
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much 
 stronger. What should I do???

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[RBW] Re: Road salt and Rivendells

2012-12-06 Thread Matt Beebe
I do this, and fenders and front mudflap definitely do the job of 
protecting your bike's jewels.   I have the regular SKS fenders, but the 
longboards are no doubt far better for keeping the salt away.   Also, 
frame-saver is pretty effective.

I wish they didn't salt the roads so much around here, but not for the 
bike's sake;   it's just... they way, way over do it with the salt 
trucks.   The roads and bordering soil are rendered grainy white at the 
slightest hint of precipitation. 



On Thursday, December 6, 2012 1:02:42 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

  
 I am going to try commuting thru the winter. Not in snow/slush. Just on 
 the dry days.
 In the winter, there is a dusting of salt on the road after the snow melts 
 away and the roads dry up around here.
 *Will riding on dry roads with salt residue be bad for the 
 frame/components?*
 I am hoping the longboards will minimize probs.


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[RBW] Re: Custom Frame Raffle

2012-12-06 Thread Matt Beebe
This is such a great idea! I hope it generates tons of sales so riv can 
keep bringing out the coolest ideas on wheels (and bags), and needless to 
say, whoever wins this is winning BIG time.

The mountain mixte and mountain fixed gear ideas sound cool.   




On Tuesday, December 4, 2012 4:06:42 PM UTC-5, Dave Rivbike wrote:

 I just posted on the blug but thought to repost here. 

 We're raffling off a custom frame to one lucky customer who places a $300+ 
 order during December. 

 Info here: 
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/37206352818/rivendell-raffle

 Happy Holidays

 -Dave@riv


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[RBW] Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Will
These wheels take a lot of punishment and wear over time. Riding style, rider 
weight and terrain have to be taken into consideration. Even though I have 
learned to ride with a certain amount of finesse I still consider myself to be 
a clyde weighing in the 190-240 lb range throughout my cycling career. I have 
gone through many wheels in many ways including the dreaded stress cracks 
around the spoke holes. I've done this to Mavics and Velocities. I have never 
had a manufacturer not replace the rim under warranty no matter how long I had 
been riding it. Send it back to the builder. Riv (Rich) are/is especially good 
about this type of customer service. I've purchased one wheel from Peter White. 
A front dyno wheel. Fronts generally don't have stress problems like these. So 
I never needed to approach him under such circumstances. He might charge you 
for the rebuild if the wheel is more than a year old but I can't imagine 
Velocity not giving him a new rim. 

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Re: [RBW] Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2012-12-05 at 23:28 -0800, Toshi Takeuchi wrote:
 There have been some bad batches of Velocity rims.  I bet if you
 contacted Velocity, they would replace the rim free of charge, but you
 would have to build up the wheels.

Velocity has not only replaced cracked rims free for me, they have also
built the wheels.  Labor, spokes and shipment both ways have also been
free.  

Call or email them.




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Re: [RBW] Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2012-12-05 at 23:19 -0800, Tim wrote:
 LBS guy is recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying
 they're much stronger. What should I do???

FWIW, I have had Mavic rims crack, too: MA40, back years ago, and fairly
recently a couple of MA3s.  However, unlike with the Velocity rims --
all of which have been replaced free by Velocity -- Mavic has never paid
as much as one red cent towards replacement.




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Re: [RBW] Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Will
Yeah, I never had to deal with Mavic directly so I shouldn't speak of them. 
When I had Mavic rim failures it was always the builder (usually Excel) taking 
care of me. In fact I've never had to deal with Velocity directly either. It's 
always been Rich built Velocity's for me and he's always kept me rolling.

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[RBW] Re: Saluki

2012-12-06 Thread Will
Sean, FWIW list member Hobie is selling a fine example of a 58cm Saluki, I'm 
pretty sure it's still available. I have personally ridden this bike. It's too 
small for me but its gorgeous. Last I checked he was looking to unload the 
complete bike (with fancy parts) for just north of what a new frame costs. It's 
worth a look if you are still interested. He's a New York resident also...

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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Ron Mc
Mavics are excellent, and if you look around you can still find NOS Rigida. 
 I have a set of 30-y-o Rigidas on Zeus GS hubs that have probably 30K on 
them and have been trued twice in that time, and over a gillion potholes. 
 The hubs are oxidized around the spokes, but the wheels are so strong it 
would be a waste to take them apart to polish the hubs.  Replaced the 
bearing balls again last summer, and they're the best-rolling wheels I've 
ever seen.  My buddy's Ultegra hubs don't roll with them.  

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 1:19:50 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear 
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity 
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early 
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another 
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles 
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and 
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a 
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that 
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard 
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more 
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so 
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are 
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is 
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much 
 stronger. What should I do???

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[RBW] Re: Saluki

2012-12-06 Thread C.J. Filip
Sounds like we have nearly the same PBH.  I can straddle the 60cm
Saluki in bare feet with Hetres, and not want/need to tip toe due to
top tube clearance.  Recommend going bigger.

On Dec 5, 7:16 pm, SeanMac seanm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thank you for all of your help today.  I spent the day on jury duty, so I
 am a bit slow in sending thanks.

 When I returned home I had my son help me to re-measure my PBH.  We ended
 up taking several measurements, typically getting a PBH between 86 - 87.
 Based on Riv's chart, his seems to put me at a 56 Sam, a 58-60 Saluki (or
 Bleriot) and 58-61 Homer.

 I don't need a new bike any time soon, but it would be nice to take
 advantage of a deal.  However, since a new bike is a bike purchase, I want
 to make the best decision possible - even if that means not buying
 anything.  The problem, of course, is that one can never know for sure what
 deals will come by.  However, since I live in Buffalo, it is pretty
 unlikely that I will be outdoors on a bike any time soon.  I probably
 should hang tight and wait for a deal that I can't pass up.

 Sorry for thinking out loud.  I do appreciate all or your help / advice.
 Someday I'll make up my mind!

 Sean







 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:51:52 AM UTC-5, Frank wrote:

  I have a 62cm Saluki and a 63cm AHH and my PBH is 89.5. Mine are set up
  differently, but if I were to go down the like-to-like line on a
  per-component basis, they would be very similar. I love them both, ride
  them both almost equally, and I've done light touring on both.

  I've also ridden each of them loaded with 5 days worth of clothing and
  stuff to support an extended vacation / stay in PDX on the Seattle to
  Portland ride in years past. I didn't weigh them, but would guess that with
  two panniers and a Hoss pretty fully packed I probably had 45lbs. of jank
  plus 165lbs of me on the bike. Both bikes worked fine at 100m/d, though I'd
  say they were close to the limit.

  In any event, the Saluki is a great bike and would be well suited to the
  riding you describe, though so would the Sam. Can't see how you could go
  wrong either way.

  On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:35:26 AM UTC-8, SeanMac wrote:

  I have noticed several Salukis for sale recently on ebay.  I know that
  this bike was produced before the Bleriot, but I have had a somewhat
  difficult time finding information about it on the web.  I am hoping that a
  list member or three might be able to shed some light on this bike for me.

   I'm in the market for a bike for longer rides and perhaps some short
  touring - Erie Canal, C  O Trail, etc.  I've had my eyes on a Sam for some
  time, but have not yet pulled the trigger (might on the all-blue Sam - what
  a deal).  Would a Saluki be well-suited for this kind of riding or is it
  really designed as a country bike / credit card tourer / rambler / century
  ride bike?

  How would the Saluki compare to a Homer?

  I can't seem to find a chart that matches PBH to Saluki sizing.  Should I
  simply use the general chart on the Riv site, matching the 650b section to
  my height to choose the correct Saluki?

  Thanks,

  Sean

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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Matthew J
Velocity was having trouble keeping quality consistent in Australia but 
have since moved production to the United States.  Believe the U.S. made 
versions will be hitting the stores next year.
 
Apparently I have been real lucky as the three Velocity rim wheelsets I 
have, one made by Peter White, one Rich Lesnick and one by my LBS are 
exceptionally durable.

 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Switching to Moustachios from drops?!?!

2012-12-06 Thread Ray Shine
Not in my opinion. I did not care for 'stache bars at all. I use either alba's, 
or noodles with the interrupter brakes. I ride a lot in downtown traffic, and 
those bars provide the best positioning. I have one bike with the Jitensha flat 
bar that is good in traffic, too, but it has very limited hand placement 
options.





From: Michael john11.2...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wed, December 5, 2012 9:58:18 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Switching to Moustachios from drops?!?!


PS - will the staches help me sit more upright, or not?
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Re: [RBW] Re: New Sugino Crank

2012-12-06 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Max -- congrats! First pair of Keos I've seen on this list beside mine!

Nice bike, with very interesting setup. That's also the first Italian
racing bike I've seen with 35 Kojaks!

And: how do y'all keep your bikes so clean? That drivetrain looks as
if it hasn't been ridden.

On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 9:56 PM, reynoldslugs be...@perrylaw.net wrote:
 I have the earlier version of this crankset, in 26-40.  It's a terrific 
 crank.  Pics here:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/sets/72157629609638106/

 Max

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http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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Re: [RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Peter Morgano
Not a jerk question but what is the lifespan of a set of rims, on average?

On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 3:53 AM, Matt Beebe matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've had the opposite experience with synergies and now dyad rims.I
 put at least 15K on a set of synergies in all seasons including lots fully
 loaded, and the very snowy and salty new england winter of 2010/11, and
 only had to replace them because the sidewalls/braking surface had worn way
 too thin for comfort.Mavic rims seemed to last well too, but I would
 reckon maybe you have hit a bad batch or something.




 On Thursday, December 6, 2012 2:19:50 AM UTC-5, Tim wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much
 stronger. What should I do???

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[RBW] Road salt and Rivendells

2012-12-06 Thread Marc Irwin
The long boards will definitely reduce any problems, but, yes, the dry residue 
ends up on the bike like dust.  In the winter here in Michigan, I simply wipe 
the frame more often.  I leave a damp cloth in the garage and clean the bike 
more often.

Marc

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Sugino Crank

2012-12-06 Thread reynoldslugs
that Della Santa was fairly new at the time the pics taken...simmichrome, 
rubbing alcohol, and bike lust ... but not always so spic and span:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/sets/72157626493792020/

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Sugino Crank

2012-12-06 Thread PATRICK MOORE
And Della Santa is American -- all the more interesting as that must
be a custom -- club racer with room for 35s.

On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 8:03 AM, reynoldslugs be...@perrylaw.net wrote:
 that Della Santa was fairly new at the time the pics taken...simmichrome, 
 rubbing alcohol, and bike lust ... but not always so spic and span:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/sets/72157626493792020/

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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Ron Mc
I'm a metallurgist and licensed professional engineer.  If you make 
something monolithic, it doesn't have a life span.  If it's not monolithic, 
it fatigues at something below 10 million load cycles (if it exceeds 10 
million load cycles, it's assumed to be monolithic).  On a rolling wheel, 
cycles add up quickly.  What is being called stress cracking is really 
fatigue, and it generally means there is a soft spot or hard spot, or 
mechanical divot the the point the crack starts.  Rims can also deteriorate 
by weathering and then eventually stress crack, which is corrosion-assisted 
cracking.  But if you do it right, there is no reason to have a life limit. 
 My Rigida rims have 18 million cycles on them.  

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 1:19:50 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear 
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity 
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early 
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another 
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles 
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and 
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a 
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that 
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard 
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more 
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so 
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are 
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is 
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much 
 stronger. What should I do???

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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Ron Mc
oops, didn't convert inches to feet - they have 200 million cycles on them

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 9:11:51 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:

 I'm a metallurgist and licensed professional engineer.  If you make 
 something monolithic, it doesn't have a life span.  If it's not monolithic, 
 it fatigues at something below 10 million load cycles (if it exceeds 10 
 million load cycles, it's assumed to be monolithic).  On a rolling wheel, 
 cycles add up quickly.  What is being called stress cracking is really 
 fatigue, and it generally means there is a soft spot or hard spot, or 
 mechanical divot the the point the crack starts.  Rims can also deteriorate 
 by weathering and then eventually stress crack, which is corrosion-assisted 
 cracking.  But if you do it right, there is no reason to have a life limit. 
  My Rigida rims have 18 million cycles on them.  

 On Thursday, December 6, 2012 1:19:50 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear 
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity 
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early 
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another 
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles 
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and 
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a 
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that 
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard 
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more 
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so 
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are 
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is 
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much 
 stronger. What should I do???



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[RBW] Re: Road salt and Rivendells

2012-12-06 Thread Ron Mc
Boeshield.  Wax your paint with a good carnuba wax or even better - 
Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax.  Then Boeshield everything else,. 
 Occasionally rinse the salt, wax again, boeshield again.  For your rims, 
after you apply the boeshield, swipe the brake surfaces with denatured 
alcohol.  
I take very valuable fishing reels to the salt water, and am a metallurgist 
and corrosion engineer with a PE license.  


On Thursday, December 6, 2012 12:02:42 AM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

  
 I am going to try commuting thru the winter. Not in snow/slush. Just on 
 the dry days.
 In the winter, there is a dusting of salt on the road after the snow melts 
 away and the roads dry up around here.
 *Will riding on dry roads with salt residue be bad for the 
 frame/components?*
 I am hoping the longboards will minimize probs.


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[RBW] Re: Switching to Moustachios from drops?!?!

2012-12-06 Thread Ron Mc
with a long quill (Technomic), my moustache bars are an inch higher than my 
saddle.  With my prior drop bars, the top position was 2 inches below the 
saddle.  My old guy cervical strain problem is long gone now.  You will 
need a shorter stem (horizontal position) because the bars reach forward. 
 I went from a 120mm down to a 70mm stem.  Also moved my saddle forward 
about 25mm.   Note that you may be able to achieve the same height with 
just the tall quill and your drop bars.  But I do like the hand positions 
on the moustache bars better.  

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/AAPB210005.jpg


On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 11:56:06 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

 Anyone made the switch?
  
 Seems like on every drop bar bike I dun rid, I just always feel too 
 stretched out. Even with my 7cm shorty stem and flat ramps. Even knowing I 
 have the correct frame sizes and have the bar above saddle height now.
 On the tops, its always perfect. Hoods - feel too stretched out. 
 Hooks/drops - fuggettabowdit .5 mile at a time at best, and that takes 
 discipline.
  
 I sit up at about 50 degrees when on the hoods.
  
 So I was thinking of slapping a used moustache I have on the bike and 
 trying that.
 Maybe my 44 year old bones just don't like drops anymore.
 Maybe i am being too persnicketty and am looking for absolute comfort, 
 when there is no such thang on a bike?
  
  
 Thoughts? Anyone made the switch?
  
 The good part is it'll cost me exactly 0$ and 0 cents to try it. I can use 
 the tape/levers/shifters from my current setup on the staches.
  
  


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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Ron Mc
sorry, got it right this time, there 21 million revolutions on my Rigida 
rims.  

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Re: [RBW] Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Doug Van Cleve
TIm,

I had a Velocity Razor rim crack at nearly every drive side spoke hole
(rear wheel).  It never occurred to me to contact them about it, so I
rebuilt the rear wheel myself with a FiR rim.  After the fact, I mentioned
it on the phone to a guy there (don't remember why I even called) and he
offered to rebuild the wheel with a new rim.  Since I didn't have a hub to
use at that point, I never followed up on it.  I suspect if you call them,
they will offer to rebuild your wheel with a new rim.  No idea if it
applies to you, but Velocity used to spec a fairly low maximum spoke
tension and my wheel was definitely above it...

Doug

On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 12:19 AM, Tim tim.ki...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much
 stronger. What should I do???


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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Matt Beebe
If you ride in the grime and rain, a common reality if you commute by bike, 
your brake pads will eventually eat through the rim sidewalls.Even if 
you only ride in dry conditions, dirt will get in there, between the pads 
and the rim, unless you are riding in a clean room.



On Thursday, December 6, 2012 10:11:51 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 I'm a metallurgist and licensed professional engineer.  If you make 
 something monolithic, it doesn't have a life span.  If it's not monolithic, 
 it fatigues at something below 10 million load cycles (if it exceeds 10 
 million load cycles, it's assumed to be monolithic).  On a rolling wheel, 
 cycles add up quickly.  What is being called stress cracking is really 
 fatigue, and it generally means there is a soft spot or hard spot, or 
 mechanical divot the the point the crack starts.  Rims can also deteriorate 
 by weathering and then eventually stress crack, which is corrosion-assisted 
 cracking.  But if you do it right, there is no reason to have a life limit. 
  My Rigida rims have 18 million cycles on them.  

 On Thursday, December 6, 2012 1:19:50 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear 
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity 
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early 
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another 
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles 
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and 
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a 
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that 
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard 
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more 
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so 
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are 
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is 
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much 
 stronger. What should I do???



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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Bruce
I had a Synergy rim do exactly the same thing. In addition, both rims were 
slightly undersized, so wire bead tires (all brands) wouldn't stay on. I 
could only get folding tires to stay on the rims.

Synergy offered to replace them (for the size problem), but I haven't 
gotten around to sending the rims to them, since it would involve unlacing 
a functional wheel. Now that the rear wheel has destroyed itself, I mean to 
send in that rim.

Bruce
Okemos, MI


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[RBW] Re: Keeping your neck warm

2012-12-06 Thread Jim M.
One alternative that hasn't been mentioned is highlighted in today's Yehuda 
Moon: http://yehudamoon.com/ 



On Friday, November 30, 2012 10:01:56 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

  that are a wee bit low to do this. What do y'all use to keep 
 your neck warm in situations where you don't want to add another 
 garment with a higher collar? 



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Re: [RBW] Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Eric Norris
I have several wheelsets built with Velocity Aerohead rims, and thousands of 
miles of use on them. Never a single problem.

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

On Dec 5, 2012, at 11:19 PM, Tim tim.ki...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear wheel. 
 Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity Synergy with 
 XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early in the bikes 
 life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another Synergy with my 
 hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles on it and has 
 stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and spread to the 
 sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a LBS that knows 
 what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that Synergy rims (and 
 Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard the same thing out of 
 a couple of other people too, and they k ow more about wheels than me. Thing 
 is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so highly recommend them if 
 they're poor quality. But my experiences are making me wonder, what with 2 
 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is recommending a Mavic, I think one of 
 the CXP styles saying they're much stronger. What should I do???
 
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[RBW] Re: Switching to Moustachios from drops?!?!

2012-12-06 Thread Jeremy Till
I doubt that moustache bars will help your reach problem, as they are 
fairly long reach bars themselves.  Most people (including grant?) say that 
if you're comfy with a certain stem length on drops, you'll need a ~2cm 
shorter stem to feel good on Moustaches.  Since you're already on a 7cm 
stem with drops, that might be a problem--not sure how easy it is to find 
50cm technomics (did they even make them?).  

Part of the Rivendell Geometry is that their top tubes are on the long 
side.  Grant's justification is that a higher overall bar position allows 
you to reach further, and I think that works for some, but I've always 
found I prefer shorter top tubes even though I'm a big guy.  

My advice would be to try a short reach drop bar, something like the Soma 
Hwy One, which you can get in silver and 26.0mm, so you could drop it right 
into your existing technomic.  The Noodle, while having lots of real estate 
to rest your hands on, has on the flipside a relatively long reach and drop.

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 9:56:06 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 Anyone made the switch?
  
 Seems like on every drop bar bike I dun rid, I just always feel too 
 stretched out. Even with my 7cm shorty stem and flat ramps. Even knowing I 
 have the correct frame sizes and have the bar above saddle height now.
 On the tops, its always perfect. Hoods - feel too stretched out. 
 Hooks/drops - fuggettabowdit .5 mile at a time at best, and that takes 
 discipline.
  
 I sit up at about 50 degrees when on the hoods.
  
 So I was thinking of slapping a used moustache I have on the bike and 
 trying that.
 Maybe my 44 year old bones just don't like drops anymore.
 Maybe i am being too persnicketty and am looking for absolute comfort, 
 when there is no such thang on a bike?
  
  
 Thoughts? Anyone made the switch?
  
 The good part is it'll cost me exactly 0$ and 0 cents to try it. I can use 
 the tape/levers/shifters from my current setup on the staches.
  
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Switching to Moustachios from drops?!?!

2012-12-06 Thread Peter Morgano
Why not the Bosco bars, they have a good reach in the front and let you sit
up nice and tall on the grips. I borrowed the setup of a fellow list
member and did mine with interruptor levers and dia-compe nubs, lots o hand
positions.

On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 12:35 PM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:

 I doubt that moustache bars will help your reach problem, as they are
 fairly long reach bars themselves.  Most people (including grant?) say that
 if you're comfy with a certain stem length on drops, you'll need a ~2cm
 shorter stem to feel good on Moustaches.  Since you're already on a 7cm
 stem with drops, that might be a problem--not sure how easy it is to find
 50cm technomics (did they even make them?).

 Part of the Rivendell Geometry is that their top tubes are on the long
 side.  Grant's justification is that a higher overall bar position allows
 you to reach further, and I think that works for some, but I've always
 found I prefer shorter top tubes even though I'm a big guy.

 My advice would be to try a short reach drop bar, something like the Soma
 Hwy One, which you can get in silver and 26.0mm, so you could drop it right
 into your existing technomic.  The Noodle, while having lots of real estate
 to rest your hands on, has on the flipside a relatively long reach and drop.


 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 9:56:06 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 Anyone made the switch?

 Seems like on every drop bar bike I dun rid, I just always feel too
 stretched out. Even with my 7cm shorty stem and flat ramps. Even knowing I
 have the correct frame sizes and have the bar above saddle height now.
 On the tops, its always perfect. Hoods - feel too stretched out.
 Hooks/drops - fuggettabowdit .5 mile at a time at best, and that takes
 discipline.

 I sit up at about 50 degrees when on the hoods.

 So I was thinking of slapping a used moustache I have on the bike and
 trying that.
 Maybe my 44 year old bones just don't like drops anymore.
 Maybe i am being too persnicketty and am looking for absolute comfort,
 when there is no such thang on a bike?


 Thoughts? Anyone made the switch?

 The good part is it'll cost me exactly 0$ and 0 cents to try it. I can
 use the tape/levers/shifters from my current setup on the staches.



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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Ron Mc
OK Matt, that counts as weathering - in this case it's mechanically 
assisted weathering - and it has nothing whatsoever to do with the cracks 
they are discussing on this thread.  

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 10:38:19 AM UTC-6, Matt Beebe wrote:

 If you ride in the grime and rain, a common reality if you commute by 
 bike, your brake pads will eventually eat through the rim sidewalls.
 Even if you only ride in dry conditions, dirt will get in there, between 
 the pads and the rim, unless you are riding in a clean room.

 

 On Thursday, December 6, 2012 10:11:51 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 I'm a metallurgist and licensed professional engineer.  If you make 
 something monolithic, it doesn't have a life span.  If it's not monolithic, 
 it fatigues at something below 10 million load cycles (if it exceeds 10 
 million load cycles, it's assumed to be monolithic).  On a rolling wheel, 
 cycles add up quickly.  What is being called stress cracking is really 
 fatigue, and it generally means there is a soft spot or hard spot, or 
 mechanical divot the the point the crack starts.  Rims can also deteriorate 
 by weathering and then eventually stress crack, which is corrosion-assisted 
 cracking.  But if you do it right, there is no reason to have a life limit. 
  My Rigida rims have 18 million cycles on them.  

 On Thursday, December 6, 2012 1:19:50 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear 
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity 
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early 
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another 
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles 
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and 
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a 
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that 
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard 
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more 
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so 
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are 
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is 
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much 
 stronger. What should I do???



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[RBW] Re: Switching to Moustachios from drops?!?!

2012-12-06 Thread Ron Mc
yes, they make 50 cm Technomic.  

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[RBW] Re: David Lance Goines Riv Poster--inexpensive framing option

2012-12-06 Thread islaysteve
I finally had my poster framed about a month ago; I was on the fence for 
long time.  I know what framing costs in my area as we've had a lot of 
pieces done over the years.  It will make a difference in price if you 
choose to mat it.  That's what I was contemplating originally as I was 
going to put it on a large wall.  When I changed my mind and decided on a 
smaller wall, I went with no mat.  That opens more doors as smaller frames 
are cheaper.  BTW, the width is actually closer to 17.75, but I guess it's 
not much of a problem to use a stock 18 frame.  Anyway, here's what I 
ended up doing.  I was shopping local antique stores, thinking that I might 
luck out and find an old frame that I liked with the proper dimensions.  
Saw some possibilities, nothing perfect.  I think with enough shopping, 
this could be done.  I wanted an Arts  Crafts look to compliment the 
print.  In one shop they were selling framed old-style posters in 
quarter-sawn oak frames.  I inquired about custom frames and the owner 
obliged and ordered one from his source (in Montana, I believe).  For the 
unmatted size, he charged me $65.  When the frame came, I took it to my 
favorite frame shop, and the owner suggested I go with what he called 
preservation grade framing: acid free board, UV glass, etc.  The poster 
is dry-mounted to the board, so this is a permanent arrangement.  He put 
spacers between the poster and the frame so that it doesn't touch the 
glass.  This is recommended if you don't use a mat.  He charged me $55.  So 
the total cost was $120 and I'm thrilled with the results as well as the 
price.  Don't have a pix, but will post one if anyone is interested. Same 
general look as ttoshi's with different wood.  Cheers, Steve



On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 2:14:22 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 thanks for showing the poster - I was wondering about it.  
 He's not too sky about copying Mucha.  
 But so did everyone else.  
 Cool poster.  



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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
We've replaced (through Velocity warranty) a large number of cracked 
Synergy rims. I think Grant likes them because they're classic eyeletted 
box style and they are one of the only mainstream options in 650B with a 
brake surface. Velocity told me the more recent production Synergy rims 
have a thicker top-wall, which should help. I've been using Dyads and 
Aeroheads and the like for myself and numerous customers for 8 years with 
no problems whatsoever. We've been getting US-made Velocity rims for the 
last several months. Quality looks as good or better than Australian-made 
equivalents.

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 1:19:50 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 Ok so I've had the Homer for 2 years and am about to get my third rear 
 wheel. Here's my story: Peter White built the bike and wheels. Velocity 
 Synergy with XT hubs and 36 spokes.I hit a pothole pretty good fairly early 
 in the bikes life. LBS said rim couldn't be tried so they built up another 
 Synergy with my hub. Fast forward to now. That wheel has maybe 5-7k miles 
 on it and has stress cracks all over it. They started around the spokes and 
 spread to the sides. So time for another. I'm working in CT now and found a 
 LBS that knows what a Riv is. Owner builds the wheels. Well, he says that 
 Synergy rims (and Velocity in general) are just not that good. I've heard 
 the same thing out of a couple of other people too, and they k ow more 
 about wheels than me. Thing is, I can't imagine why Riv and Peter would so 
 highly recommend them if they're poor quality. But my experiences are 
 making me wonder, what with 2 wheels in around 10k miles. LBS guy is 
 recommending a Mavic, I think one of the CXP styles saying they're much 
 stronger. What should I do???

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[RBW] Re: Custom Frame Raffle

2012-12-06 Thread William
Even a person who doesn't need anything at the moment should buy themself a 
$300 gift certificate.  Buy the $300 Gift Certificate, hand it to your wife 
and tell her This is what I want for Christmas.  It's perfect!

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 9:15:37 PM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:

 That would be a Mountain Fixte!

 I'm looking at what I can justify, seeing if it will come to $300

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 11:57:47 AM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:

 I'd do a version of that Mountain Fixie that was such a troublesome 
 truck. Basically a fixed gear fool-around-in-the-woods bike. Able to take 
 60mm Big Apples and fenders, like a super-attractive version of my 
 industrial-ugly Gravel 
 Roadsterhttp://www.biketinker.com/2012/projects/front-bag-conversion-on-problem-solvers/.
  Flared 
 drops. Threadless stem. Berthoud saddle, maybe? I like your mixte idea for 
 standover/bailoff clearance. 

 Maybe an Abele gray, black, or pea-sage green; something low-key for the 
 woods. Pencil blue, maybe.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com



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[RBW] Oppossum Stuff C'est Magnifique!

2012-12-06 Thread Liesl
that kiwi 'possum stuff is brilliant:  just about as warm and light as down 
(that's barely exaggerated).  My family is in New Zealand, and so I've had 
plenty of opportunity to 1) see lots of different 'possum garments, 2) talk 
to a lot of Kiwis about it, and 3) obtained a few items.  The outdoors folk 
love it.  The radar hat offered by Riv currently is my absolute go-to 
winter bike hat (and I should just mention here that I am a hat 
collector).  Fits under a helmet, covers your ears, double layer so really 
warm, not scratchy in any way, light as can be, has a brim, doesn't squeeze 
the noggin.  If you live in colder climes, put it on your or your loved 
one's  christmas list.

I am also hoping that Grant might consider Kiwi-America's-Cup-Red 'possum 
socks (even though the originals were wool) because they are currently my 
all-time favorite socks for comfort and snappy looks. 
(http://www.sirpeterblaketrust.org/get-involved/red-socks-day/)

yours, liesl

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Re: [RBW] Re: Saluki

2012-12-06 Thread Joe Bunik
FWIW, I'm pretty sure Vince of RBW fame is still selling his 60cm
canti-luki... mmm butterscotch.
=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

On 12/6/12, C.J. Filip c.j.fi...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Sounds like we have nearly the same PBH.  I can straddle the 60cm
 Saluki in bare feet with Hetres, and not want/need to tip toe due to
 top tube clearance.  Recommend going bigger.

 On Dec 5, 7:16 pm, SeanMac seanm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thank you for all of your help today.  I spent the day on jury duty, so I
 am a bit slow in sending thanks.

 When I returned home I had my son help me to re-measure my PBH.  We ended
 up taking several measurements, typically getting a PBH between 86 - 87.
 Based on Riv's chart, his seems to put me at a 56 Sam, a 58-60 Saluki (or
 Bleriot) and 58-61 Homer.

 I don't need a new bike any time soon, but it would be nice to take
 advantage of a deal.  However, since a new bike is a bike purchase, I
 want
 to make the best decision possible - even if that means not buying
 anything.  The problem, of course, is that one can never know for sure
 what
 deals will come by.  However, since I live in Buffalo, it is pretty
 unlikely that I will be outdoors on a bike any time soon.  I probably
 should hang tight and wait for a deal that I can't pass up.

 Sorry for thinking out loud.  I do appreciate all or your help / advice.
 Someday I'll make up my mind!

 Sean







 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:51:52 AM UTC-5, Frank wrote:

  I have a 62cm Saluki and a 63cm AHH and my PBH is 89.5. Mine are set up
  differently, but if I were to go down the like-to-like line on a
  per-component basis, they would be very similar. I love them both, ride
  them both almost equally, and I've done light touring on both.

  I've also ridden each of them loaded with 5 days worth of clothing and
  stuff to support an extended vacation / stay in PDX on the Seattle to
  Portland ride in years past. I didn't weigh them, but would guess that
  with
  two panniers and a Hoss pretty fully packed I probably had 45lbs. of
  jank
  plus 165lbs of me on the bike. Both bikes worked fine at 100m/d, though
  I'd
  say they were close to the limit.

  In any event, the Saluki is a great bike and would be well suited to
  the
  riding you describe, though so would the Sam. Can't see how you could
  go
  wrong either way.

  On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:35:26 AM UTC-8, SeanMac wrote:

  I have noticed several Salukis for sale recently on ebay.  I know that
  this bike was produced before the Bleriot, but I have had a somewhat
  difficult time finding information about it on the web.  I am hoping
  that a
  list member or three might be able to shed some light on this bike for
  me.

   I'm in the market for a bike for longer rides and perhaps some short
  touring - Erie Canal, C  O Trail, etc.  I've had my eyes on a Sam for
  some
  time, but have not yet pulled the trigger (might on the all-blue Sam -
  what
  a deal).  Would a Saluki be well-suited for this kind of riding or is
  it
  really designed as a country bike / credit card tourer / rambler /
  century
  ride bike?

  How would the Saluki compare to a Homer?

  I can't seem to find a chart that matches PBH to Saluki sizing.  Should
  I
  simply use the general chart on the Riv site, matching the 650b section
  to
  my height to choose the correct Saluki?

  Thanks,

  Sean

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Re: [RBW] Re: Saluki

2012-12-06 Thread William
Canti_Luki!??!?  You are KILLING ME!

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 12:56:00 PM UTC-8, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:

 FWIW, I'm pretty sure Vince of RBW fame is still selling his 60cm 
 canti-luki... mmm butterscotch. 
 =- Joe Bunik 
 Walnut Creek, CA 

 On 12/6/12, C.J. Filip c.j@hotmail.com javascript: wrote: 
  Sounds like we have nearly the same PBH.  I can straddle the 60cm 
  Saluki in bare feet with Hetres, and not want/need to tip toe due to 
  top tube clearance.  Recommend going bigger. 
  
  On Dec 5, 7:16 pm, SeanMac seanm...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Thank you for all of your help today.  I spent the day on jury duty, so 
 I 
  am a bit slow in sending thanks. 
  
  When I returned home I had my son help me to re-measure my PBH.  We 
 ended 
  up taking several measurements, typically getting a PBH between 86 - 
 87. 
  Based on Riv's chart, his seems to put me at a 56 Sam, a 58-60 Saluki 
 (or 
  Bleriot) and 58-61 Homer. 
  
  I don't need a new bike any time soon, but it would be nice to take 
  advantage of a deal.  However, since a new bike is a bike purchase, I 
  want 
  to make the best decision possible - even if that means not buying 
  anything.  The problem, of course, is that one can never know for sure 
  what 
  deals will come by.  However, since I live in Buffalo, it is pretty 
  unlikely that I will be outdoors on a bike any time soon.  I probably 
  should hang tight and wait for a deal that I can't pass up. 
  
  Sorry for thinking out loud.  I do appreciate all or your help / 
 advice. 
  Someday I'll make up my mind! 
  
  Sean 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:51:52 AM UTC-5, Frank wrote: 
  
   I have a 62cm Saluki and a 63cm AHH and my PBH is 89.5. Mine are set 
 up 
   differently, but if I were to go down the like-to-like line on a 
   per-component basis, they would be very similar. I love them both, 
 ride 
   them both almost equally, and I've done light touring on both. 
  
   I've also ridden each of them loaded with 5 days worth of clothing 
 and 
   stuff to support an extended vacation / stay in PDX on the Seattle to 
   Portland ride in years past. I didn't weigh them, but would guess 
 that 
   with 
   two panniers and a Hoss pretty fully packed I probably had 45lbs. of 
   jank 
   plus 165lbs of me on the bike. Both bikes worked fine at 100m/d, 
 though 
   I'd 
   say they were close to the limit. 
  
   In any event, the Saluki is a great bike and would be well suited to 
   the 
   riding you describe, though so would the Sam. Can't see how you could 
   go 
   wrong either way. 
  
   On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:35:26 AM UTC-8, SeanMac wrote: 
  
   I have noticed several Salukis for sale recently on ebay.  I know 
 that 
   this bike was produced before the Bleriot, but I have had a somewhat 
   difficult time finding information about it on the web.  I am hoping 
   that a 
   list member or three might be able to shed some light on this bike 
 for 
   me. 
  
I'm in the market for a bike for longer rides and perhaps some 
 short 
   touring - Erie Canal, C  O Trail, etc.  I've had my eyes on a Sam 
 for 
   some 
   time, but have not yet pulled the trigger (might on the all-blue Sam 
 - 
   what 
   a deal).  Would a Saluki be well-suited for this kind of riding or 
 is 
   it 
   really designed as a country bike / credit card tourer / rambler / 
   century 
   ride bike? 
  
   How would the Saluki compare to a Homer? 
  
   I can't seem to find a chart that matches PBH to Saluki sizing. 
  Should 
   I 
   simply use the general chart on the Riv site, matching the 650b 
 section 
   to 
   my height to choose the correct Saluki? 
  
   Thanks, 
  
   Sean 
  
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[RBW] Re: Custom Frame Raffle

2012-12-06 Thread Joe Bernard
Hmm..that's an interesting idea. If you win the frame, you spend the 
certificate on parts for it!
 
Joe Bernard

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 12:05:05 PM UTC-8, William wrote:

 Even a person who doesn't need anything at the moment should buy themself 
 a $300 gift certificate.  Buy the $300 Gift Certificate, hand it to your 
 wife and tell her This is what I want for Christmas.  It's perfect!

 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 9:15:37 PM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:

 That would be a Mountain Fixte!

 I'm looking at what I can justify, seeing if it will come to $300

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 11:57:47 AM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:

 I'd do a version of that Mountain Fixie that was such a troublesome 
 truck. Basically a fixed gear fool-around-in-the-woods bike. Able to take 
 60mm Big Apples and fenders, like a super-attractive version of my 
 industrial-ugly Gravel 
 Roadsterhttp://www.biketinker.com/2012/projects/front-bag-conversion-on-problem-solvers/.
  Flared 
 drops. Threadless stem. Berthoud saddle, maybe? I like your mixte idea for 
 standover/bailoff clearance. 

 Maybe an Abele gray, black, or pea-sage green; something low-key for the 
 woods. Pencil blue, maybe.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com



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[RBW] Re: Custom Frame Raffle

2012-12-06 Thread William
I already got my box of goodies!  

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 1:43:40 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:

 Hmm..that's an interesting idea. If you win the frame, you spend the 
 certificate on parts for it!
  
 Joe Bernard


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Re: [RBW] FS/slightly OT: 66cm Takara Overland Fixed Gear + extras (geared setup)--$350

2012-12-06 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Is that a home-made saddlebag carrier? I plan to make one similar but
bending the ears at an angle so that they project upward rather than
downward -- don't have such huge clearance between saddle and tire on
my frames.

How does the carrier work? What sort of weight will it take? I suppose
you used hardware store aluminum stock?

Thanks.

On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 12:37 PM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
 (x-post from iBob, apologies if you see it twice).

 Hey Folks-

 Need to free up space and capital for other bike projects, so I've decided
 to sell my Takara Overland.  It is currently setup as kind of a townie-fixed
 gear, built on a frame designed for loaded touring.  Since I've recently
 acquired a Quickbeam for fixed gear townie duties, I don't really need this
 anymore.  I bought it used a couple of years ago, built up as a full on
 loaded tourer, and to sweeten the deal on the bike I will included the 7spd
 (FW) rear wheel, shifters and derailleurs, so you can convert it back to a
 geared bike if you so desire.

 Pictures here:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/85709120@N07/sets/72157632186942080/

 The details:
 -Frame measures 66cm c-c seat tube, 57cm top tube, parallel 73 degree
 angles.  Great for big guys looking for a true fistful of seatpost fit!
 The tubing stickers say 4130, and if I had to guess I'd say it was
 straight-gauge--this thing is definitely not a lightweight.  Designed for
 27 wheels with cantilever brakes.
 -48cm Salsa Woodchipper handlebars with 150mm pre-QBP (i.e., Hecho en
 Petaluma!) Salsa Quill Stem with brake hsg stop and cable roller.  It took
 some doing to get this bar in this stem, so there are some scratches under
 the tape.
 -Dia-compe canitlever brakes with Tektro R200 brake levers, Cane Creek gum
 hoods.
 -Rear wheel is Origin8 branded Formula sealed bearing track hub,
 double-sided fixed threading, 126mm spacing, laced with 14g spokes to Sun
 CR18 27 (630mm bsd) rim. 17t and 19t cogs.
 -Front wheel is a generic Weinmann single wall 27 rim on Sansin hub.
 -Tires are 27x1 1/4 (630x32mm) Schwalbe Marathons with very few miles on
 them.
 -Crankset is a Sugino GT 110x74 triple, currently running a single 40t
 chainring.  115mm Shimano UN-54 BB with 2mm spacer under driveside cup for
 proper chainline.
 -Dimension pedals.
 -WTB Speed V seat on Kalloy seatpost.
 -SKS P45 fenders.

 Not on the bike, but I will include--
 -Original Jim Blackburn silver alloy rear rack.
 -7spd freewheel rear wheel, which matches the front--Weinmann single-wall
 rim with Sansin hub.  Shimano Freewheel.
 -Original Shimano Deerhead Deore F + R derailleurs, Suntour Symmetric
 Shifters for single-bolt mounting on top of the DT.  (Note: one of the
 shifter pivot bolts might be stripped).
 -Original triple chainrings- 50/45/28

 Note: The frame isn't perfect.  The rear dropouts aren't perfectly parallel,
 the fork alignment is a little bit off.  The canti posts are positioned such
 that it's hard to use any other brakes than the ones that are on there, and
 you definitely couldn't fit 700c wheels unless you cut them off and used
 caliper brakes.  There are a couple of scratches and tiny dings.  At one
 point, a previous owner clamped a kickstand to the chainstays, and
 chainstays are minorly dented and paint is stripped there.  However, given
 the general beefyness of this frame, all of this never worried me one bit.

 I meant to fix this up and return it to geared setup before selling it, but
 it looks like I'm just not going to have the time.  As a result of all this,
 I'm offering first and foremost to BOBs, RBW list folks, and other bike
 geeks who can understand it's not perfect and see the potential in it
 anyways, especially given its uniquely large size and some of the cool
 parts.

 Asking $350, with reasonable offers accepted.  Ideally, i'd like to sell it
 local to somebody in the SF Bay Area, but if you aren't local and really
 want it, we'll work out a deal to ship it.  Contact me off-list.

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-
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For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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Re: [RBW] Oppossum Stuff C'est Magnifique!

2012-12-06 Thread Eric Platt
This makes me wonder - how does the current hat differ from the grey one of
a few years ago?  The older one is my cool to just about cold weather hat
off the bike.  On the bike, end up sweating too much with a hat under a
helmet.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 2:50 PM, Liesl li...@smm.org wrote:

 that kiwi 'possum stuff is brilliant:  just about as warm and light as
 down (that's barely exaggerated).  My family is in New Zealand, and so I've
 had plenty of opportunity to 1) see lots of different 'possum garments, 2)
 talk to a lot of Kiwis about it, and 3) obtained a few items.  The outdoors
 folk love it.  The radar hat offered by Riv currently is my absolute go-to
 winter bike hat (and I should just mention here that I am a hat
 collector).  Fits under a helmet, covers your ears, double layer so really
 warm, not scratchy in any way, light as can be, has a brim, doesn't squeeze
 the noggin.  If you live in colder climes, put it on your or your loved
 one's  christmas list.

 I am also hoping that Grant might consider Kiwi-America's-Cup-Red 'possum
 socks (even though the originals were wool) because they are currently my
 all-time favorite socks for comfort and snappy looks. (
 http://www.sirpeterblaketrust.org/get-involved/red-socks-day/)

 yours, liesl

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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-06 Thread Michael
I love my Velocity Rims, but:
 

 My Synergy, machined, 32 hole - the rim joint makes noise when brakes are 
 applied (brand new rim, too.).
 My Twin Hollow, non-machined, 32 hole - the rim joint makes noise when 
 brakes are applied (older).


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[RBW] Re: David Lance Goines Riv Poster--inexpensive framing option

2012-12-06 Thread Michael


 I would frame it with Brooks leather bartape as the matt.
 I would try to think of something from a bike I could use as the frame... 


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Re: [RBW] Oppossum Stuff C'est Magnifique!

2012-12-06 Thread Liesl
Good question Eric--I have both. There are a few different possum companies. I 
got my bike cap from riv and my radar cap in NZ; however, the designs across 
companies were less than minimal.  That said, here's my comparison: bike cap is 
single layer, smaller brim, fits the head snuggly, and is shorter relative to 
the ears. Conversely, radar hat is double layer, bigger brim (about like a riv 
cotton cap), and, most importantly for winter riding, when unfolded, it not 
covers below the ears but the nape of the neck as well. I double checked this 
on a larger head than mine by placing it on erin's noggin which is a hat size 7 
1/4 to 7 3/8. Hope this helps and provides embarrassing evidence of how much I 
love hats. Also note that when Erin tried on the radar just now, she exclaimed, 
oh! This is really nice! Are you gonna get me one?

'nuff said!

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[RBW] Re: Are A. Homer, Sam, Betty, and Ives real peeps?

2012-12-06 Thread Michael


 Thanks for the info. I have been wondering.
  
 I think the names match the Rivendell vibe of down to earth, everyday 
 riders.
  

A. Homer Hilsen, Betty Foy, and Sam Hillborne are very Americana 
sounding, too.
 
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: David Lance Goines Riv Poster--inexpensive framing option

2012-12-06 Thread Peter Morgano
That could get more expensive than having it professionally framed! You
could wrap it around the frame but you can't mat with leather, oils will
ruin the poster in short amount of time.
On Dec 6, 2012 8:00 PM, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 I would frame it with Brooks leather bartape as the matt.
 I would try to think of something from a bike I could use as the frame...

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Re: [RBW] Oppossum Stuff C'est Magnifique!

2012-12-06 Thread Liesl
Ps. Eric--the radar may possibly be too warm for you under your helmet unless 
it's really Minnesota-cold.  as a smaller person, I run colder so it's great 
for me. (also just saw that I had a missed word--it not *only* covers below the 
ear...)

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[RBW] Re: Are A. Homer, Sam, Betty, and Ives real peeps?

2012-12-06 Thread Andy Smitty Schmidt
I've had people ask me where Homer Hilsen's shop is... assuming AHH is the 
name of the builder. --Andy


On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:10:24 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 Are these real peeps, or just creative bike names?
  
 A. Homer Hilsen
 Betty Foy
 Yves Gomez
 Samuel Hillborne
  


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[RBW] Re: Are A. Homer, Sam, Betty, and Ives real peeps?

2012-12-06 Thread dougP
I've had more than one person assume that Atlantis was the name of
the company, not a model.  One guy even said I haven't seen an
Atlantis in ages.  What model is that?.  He'd never heard of
Rivendell  argued about the origin of the name, telling me I was
dreadfully wrong.  Being wrong 40% of the time takes the sting out of
being dreadfully wrong about my bike's name.

dougP

On Dec 6, 6:10 pm, Andy Smitty Schmidt 54ca...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've had people ask me where Homer Hilsen's shop is... assuming AHH is the
 name of the builder. --Andy







 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:10:24 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

  Are these real peeps, or just creative bike names?

  A. Homer Hilsen
  Betty Foy
  Yves Gomez
  Samuel Hillborne

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[RBW] Re: Are A. Homer, Sam, Betty, and Ives real peeps?

2012-12-06 Thread Joe Bernard
Apparently the headbadge proclaiming By Rivendell was dreadfully wrong, 
too...
 
Joe dreadfully wrong Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 7:07:53 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:

 I've had more than one person assume that Atlantis was the name of 
 the company, not a model.  One guy even said I haven't seen an 
 Atlantis in ages.  What model is that?.  He'd never heard of 
 Rivendell  argued about the origin of the name, telling me I was 
 dreadfully wrong.  Being wrong 40% of the time takes the sting out of 
 being dreadfully wrong about my bike's name. 

 dougP 

 On Dec 6, 6:10 pm, Andy Smitty Schmidt 54ca...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I've had people ask me where Homer Hilsen's shop is... assuming AHH is 
 the 
  name of the builder. --Andy 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:10:24 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote: 
  
   Are these real peeps, or just creative bike names? 
  
   A. Homer Hilsen 
   Betty Foy 
   Yves Gomez 
   Samuel Hillborne 


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[RBW] Re: Are A. Homer, Sam, Betty, and Ives real peeps?

2012-12-06 Thread Manuel Acosta
Having the Rivendell Pendant in my classroom my students think it's a 
college instead of a bike shop

On Thursday, December 6, 2012 7:52:20 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:

 Apparently the headbadge proclaiming By Rivendell was dreadfully wrong, 
 too...
  
 Joe dreadfully wrong Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.

 On Thursday, December 6, 2012 7:07:53 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:

 I've had more than one person assume that Atlantis was the name of 
 the company, not a model.  One guy even said I haven't seen an 
 Atlantis in ages.  What model is that?.  He'd never heard of 
 Rivendell  argued about the origin of the name, telling me I was 
 dreadfully wrong.  Being wrong 40% of the time takes the sting out of 
 being dreadfully wrong about my bike's name. 

 dougP 

 On Dec 6, 6:10 pm, Andy Smitty Schmidt 54ca...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I've had people ask me where Homer Hilsen's shop is... assuming AHH is 
 the 
  name of the builder. --Andy 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:10:24 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote: 
  
   Are these real peeps, or just creative bike names? 
  
   A. Homer Hilsen 
   Betty Foy 
   Yves Gomez 
   Samuel Hillborne 



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Re: [RBW] RBW specials

2012-12-06 Thread Jim M.
Come on, fess up. Who bought the Hilsen?



On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 6:43:50 PM UTC-8, Crazy4Suki wrote:

 Looks like the Homer, tandem and Extracycle are gone already. Had my eye 
 on the Extracycle, and am slightly relieved I don't need to find more 
 garage space ;) Did you happen to get it, Manny?


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Re: [RBW] Re: David Lance Goines Riv Poster--inexpensive framing option

2012-12-06 Thread cyclotourist
Perfect!


On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 9:55 AM, islaysteve alkire...@verizon.net wrote:

 I finally had my poster framed about a month ago; I was on the fence for
 long time.  I know what framing costs in my area as we've had a lot of
 pieces done over the years.  It will make a difference in price if you
 choose to mat it.  That's what I was contemplating originally as I was
 going to put it on a large wall.  When I changed my mind and decided on a
 smaller wall, I went with no mat.  That opens more doors as smaller frames
 are cheaper.  BTW, the width is actually closer to 17.75, but I guess it's
 not much of a problem to use a stock 18 frame.  Anyway, here's what I
 ended up doing.  I was shopping local antique stores, thinking that I might
 luck out and find an old frame that I liked with the proper dimensions.
 Saw some possibilities, nothing perfect.  I think with enough shopping,
 this could be done.  I wanted an Arts  Crafts look to compliment the
 print.  In one shop they were selling framed old-style posters in
 quarter-sawn oak frames.  I inquired about custom frames and the owner
 obliged and ordered one from his source (in Montana, I believe).  For the
 unmatted size, he charged me $65.  When the frame came, I took it to my
 favorite frame shop, and the owner suggested I go with what he called
 preservation grade framing: acid free board, UV glass, etc.  The poster
 is dry-mounted to the board, so this is a permanent arrangement.  He put
 spacers between the poster and the frame so that it doesn't touch the
 glass.  This is recommended if you don't use a mat.  He charged me $55.  So
 the total cost was $120 and I'm thrilled with the results as well as the
 price.  Don't have a pix, but will post one if anyone is interested. Same
 general look as ttoshi's with different wood.  Cheers, Steve




 On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 2:14:22 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 thanks for showing the poster - I was wondering about it.
 He's not too sky about copying Mucha.
 But so did everyone else.
 Cool poster.

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

**
Censorship is telling a man he can't have a steak just because a baby
can't chew it. -*Mark Twain*

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[RBW] Anyone used Finish Line Speed Clean on their Riv? Wanna degrease drivetrain before Boeshilding. Safe?

2012-12-06 Thread Michael
Don't know what kinda finish Rivpaint is, and wanted to know what is safe 
and fast to use on drivetrains (derailers/chains/cassetes/cranks/jockey 
arms).
 
After cleaning, I am gonna Boeshield it all.
 
Finish Line Speed Clean looks simplest - just spray it on and all the grime 
just falls off, and then the areas sprayed will dry with no rinsing or 
wiping.
 
Sounds like I could spray the Speed clean, then follow with Boeshield. That 
easy?
 
 

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