[RBW] Re: 700 x 32 tire recommendation, please...

2013-01-29 Thread Marc Irwin
I think the Panaracer Pasela TG are the best compromise between 
durability,performance and price on the market.  I went all through 2012 
without a flat.

Marc

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 12:20:55 AM UTC-5, Eli Koral wrote:

 +1 for the pasela tourguards. I love those tires. puncture proof, supple, 
 sweet lookin cream sidewall. and not too expensive. GREAT tires.

 On Monday, January 28, 2013 3:41:46 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 What do you use with puncture protection?



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[RBW] Re: 700 x 32 tire recommendation, please...

2013-01-29 Thread Mike
I've run Schwalber Marathons and Panaracer T-Serves. Both are very durable 
and belted although the T-Serves offer a better ride. 

--mike

On Monday, January 28, 2013 3:41:46 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 What do you use with puncture protection?


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[RBW] Re: 700 x 32 tire recommendation, please...

2013-01-29 Thread Jay LePree
Hi Michael:

All choices below are sound.  I have been using Bontrager Race Lite 
Hardcase tires. I had one flat in over 4000 miles on my rear tire, and my 
rear tire still has quite a number of miles on it.  They are around $40 per 
tire, but last quite a while.  

A review (not mine) was posted on commute by bike.

http://www.commutebybike.com/2011/07/21/bontrager-race-lite-hardcase-tire-review/

Jay
Demarest, NJ

On Monday, January 28, 2013 6:41:46 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 What do you use with puncture protection?


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[RBW] Re: 700 x 32 tire recommendation, please...

2013-01-29 Thread Ron Mc
I love Pasela TG, but I had a thorn utterly destroy one Sunday.  When I 
patched the tube (latex) and loaded her back up, the tube balooned through 
the tiny opening in the tire and exploded.  It was loud.  Luckily, I had a 
fold-up spare and tube.  
I still love the ride and nimble feel of these tires.  

On Monday, January 28, 2013 8:43:03 PM UTC-6, Ryan Ray wrote:

 Folding Panaracer pasela tour guards. Perfectly light, cushy, and puncture 
 resistant, and most importantly: cheap. 

 My next set will be Jack Browns or Marathon Supremes neither of which 
 really are really cheap. But I rode some roughy toughies in 28 that I liked 
 so much I'm going to give the JBs a try. 

 This is my 3rd set of Pasela TGs, 2nd in 32mm. The one knock on them is 
 they do wear out eventually.

 - Ryan



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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Peter Pesce
There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this 
set up so it's obviously very effective!

Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty easy, 
but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range of 
the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth range?

-Pete in CT


On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): http://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog 
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html 

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
 the brakes.) 

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

 Overall, highly recommended. 


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight 
 tooth 
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White 
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly 
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on 
 that) 
  
  Eric Daume 
  Dublin OH 
  
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael 
  allenm...@mac.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 
  
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one in 
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles 
 moderate 
  hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats. I'm 
  wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with 
 two-in-front and 
  two-in-back, put on a moderate load, and ride it as far as San Diego or 
 Los 
  Angeles from here. 
  
  Thanks in advance. 
  
  Michael Allen 
  
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[RBW] Pasela TG..

2013-01-29 Thread Ron Mc
and to clarify, this was not a side-wall cut.  The thorn left a 16th slit 
in the center of the tread.  When I spread it to inspect it, the thorn 
dropped out.  I didn't expect it to cut so cleanly through the kevlar belt. 
 
As far as the latex choice, my rims are so narrow, with wide tires, butyl 
tubes will blow themselves out trying to stretch into the rim.  

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 8:13:59 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:

 I love Pasela TG, but I had a thorn utterly destroy one Sunday.  When I 
 patched the tube (latex) and loaded her back up, the tube balooned through 
 the tiny opening in the tire and exploded.  It was loud.  Luckily, I had a 
 fold-up spare and tube.  
 I still love the ride and nimble feel of these tires.  




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[RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Ron Mc
+1 on the Bell Muni
My daughter and I have a pair of these.  They do the job, look good, price 
is right, the rear lights are already there, and the flip mirror you can 
add is very useful.  


On Monday, January 28, 2013 9:15:20 PM UTC-6, HTC wrote:

 I'm a big fan of Bell's Muni helmet.  Paired with Blackburn's Flea 2.0 
 front and rear lights, the combination makes a great commuter helmet.  

 Here's a video made by Bell (the Arella has now been discontinued, but the 
 information is still relevant for the Muni helmet):

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rMW62UHaIo

 - HT Chen




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[RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Will
We like these:

http://www.troxelhelmets.com/products/sport

You might poke around the Troxel site for more expensive units, but the 
Sport has all the important features, like screened vents and so on. I've 
got a high end Giro but the Troxel is as good. I dunno why, but equestrian 
helmets, in general are cheaper. The coverage is better too. Must be a 
marketing thing. 

On Monday, January 28, 2013 3:00:06 PM UTC-6, NWAJack wrote:

 Hi all.  I'm looking for a new helmet for touring.  Protective of course 
 but not too racer like.  Any suggestions?

 Thanks,
 Jack


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Re: [RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Scott Henry
Thanks Kai for the heads up.   I've seen the Berns but have yet to try one
on.  I will try to look out for a bigger one.

I'll admit that I rarely wear helmets, I try every once in a while but I
have a wide head and have yet to be able to find something that doesn't put
pressure on the sides of my head.   My standby has been my soft hairnet for
the past few years.

Even worse is my profession of firemen, if I wear my fire helmet for more
than an hour I get a major headache from the side pressure.
Scott



On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 12:44 AM, Kai Vierstra kaiviers...@gmail.comwrote:

 Bern goes to xxxl.  Seems like that would matter to a lot of you, it does
 to me.
 -Kai
 Brooklyn NY

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Scott G.
Once you get to having a four speeds on your Quickbeam, you might as well
go all the way and have it modified to use a Campagnolo Paris-Roubaix 
changer. 
Which is after all, history's most elaborate quick release.

Dia-Compe Cambio Corsa anyone ?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Matthew J
Currently available in Europe, but should find their way here soon:
 
http://www.velorution.com/abus-kranium-aks1-cardboard-helmet/
 
Imagine they will be plenty light.  The regular addition no doubt will not 
have clear outer lining.

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[RBW] Re: Where to get a replacement old school MTB fork?

2013-01-29 Thread numbnuts
Hey Bruce,
I have access to a pretty well stocked bone yard. I know there are a bunch 
of old school MTB forks in a pile. I would have to pay something for it, 
and then pay to ship, but I bet $20 would cover it, if you don't have a 
better option. You should expect some goofy color, and some nicks and 
scratches, but otherwise serviceable.

Smooth Tracks,
Chris
Redding, Ca.

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[RBW] Re: 700 x 32 tire recommendation, please...

2013-01-29 Thread dailyrandonneur
Pasela TGs. Multiple bikes including thousands of annual tandem miles. We 
go through tires faster on the tandem than a single bike and the price is 
right for the ride quality and toughness. 

I've been happy with the toughness of non-TG Paselas on single bikes -- 
knowing a flat is somewhat more likely. They ride nicely once I figured out 
the best pressure for the particular load on the bike.  

Ed 
Washington, DC

On Monday, January 28, 2013 6:41:46 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 What do you use with puncture protection?


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Re: [RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Jay B
very interesting.  thanks for sharing.  makes me wish I still had access to 
a laser cutter...

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 10:34:46 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:

 Currently available in Europe, but should find their way here soon:
  
 http://www.velorution.com/abus-kranium-aks1-cardboard-helmet/
  
 Imagine they will be plenty light.  The regular addition no doubt will not 
 have clear outer lining.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Ron Mc
Matthew, 80 quid is $150+

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:34:46 AM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:

 Currently available in Europe, but should find their way here soon:
  
 http://www.velorution.com/abus-kranium-aks1-cardboard-helmet/
  
 Imagine they will be plenty light.  The regular addition no doubt will not 
 have clear outer lining.


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[RBW] Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread Liesl
Okay, I retitled this because some may have just thought I was blabbering 
on about visiting Riv again, and this Blug story is worthy of a hearty 
response from us!

see the 1/23 entry:
http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

Jenny, you showed true courage.

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[RBW] Re: Riv Chica Warrior West Rocks!

2013-01-29 Thread Liesl
I, too, can't believe we haven't had some action here on this thread--Jenny 
certainly deserves it.  I started a new thread with a more explicit subject 
line in hopes that it isn't glossed over because folks thought I was 
talking about my upcoming trip.  I mean, the woman rode her bike out in 
front of a speeding Mercedes SUV and snagged a bike carton out of the 
passengers arms.  Not only courageous but some athletic prowess!

On Monday, January 28, 2013 9:23:14 PM UTC-6, HTC wrote:

 I first read the Blug post via Facebook and was surprised that there was 
 no mention in this group of Jenny's heroic efforts in thwarting the 
 would-be thieves.  Thanks, Liesl, for mentioning it.  I love your idea of a 
 special badge or pin!  

 Also, I'd be curious to know whose bike was in that carton; it's a cool 
 story for the new owner!


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[RBW] Re: People I meet on the internet...

2013-01-29 Thread Philip Williamson
That ride was a highlight of my year so far. First mountain bike ride back 
in California, first time meeting Gino, the chance to show you some of 
what's good up here, after you and DougP showed me around down south. All 
around great. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com  

On Monday, January 28, 2013 8:06:26 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 It's a fact: The individuals in this group are some of the best out there. 
 It's really pretty amazing. These connections have inspired a lot of 
 conversation and bike rides over the years, and this weekend was no 
 exception! This particular adventure started a month or so ago, when 
 Esteban suggested going up to do the SFR 200K. I didn't think I could do 
 that, but hoped to do the populaire. Illness took it's toll between then 
 and now, and that wasn't an option anymore. But I still really wanted to go 
 up north! We talked about it and recruited a couple friends... instant road 
 trip! They would do the 200K while I figured something easier to do, either 
 a ride in Walnut Creek or Marin.

 From the contacts I made on this list (friends on the internet!), I was 
 basically able to go up to the Bay Area, crash at someone's house, meander 
 about the city, and get a guided tour of Marin county courtesy of Gino and 
 Philip. Then go back to San Francisco and have Gino guide my around by text 
 when I was wondering about where to go. Unbelievably good time! 

 It ended up being an 11 hour day (mostly) on the bike, so much for taking 
 it easy! Climbing up to the east peak of Tam was a lot of work for me, but 
 finally made it. Some of the most incredible views I've ever seen. A blast 
 coming down, although sore arms two days later! Then a great ride through 
 the mean city streets of San Francisco (totally took the lane coming down 
 Bay). 

 Only regrets are not being to meet up with Cyclofiend Jim due to illness, 
 not getting out to see Harry at Walnut Creek and had hoped to have said hi 
 to a few more folks at the beginning of the rando, but limited to a quick 
 hello to John  Lee. It looked like you all had a great ride, minus that 
 wind! Everyone there was really nice to my buddy John who came up to do his 
 first organized ride and jumped right into it.

 Here are my pics of the weekend, only good times: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157632627267769/with/8421640123/

 So yeah, good people here! A nice cozy spot in the intertubes to call 
 home... Thanks to all of you!


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Re: [RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Scott Loveless
On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 11:19 PM, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a giro reverb and love it.  it's super lightweight.

Another vote for the Reverb.  Mine replaced a rapidly deteriorating
Trek Vapor.  The Giro is lighter, it fits the shape of my head better
than every other aero helmet I tried on, and the venting is adequate
for summer.  It's too breezy for winter use, so a rain cover or some
packing tape may be appropriate.

-- 
Scott Loveless
Camp Hill, PA  USA
http://www.twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/
__o
  _'\,_
 (*)/  (*)

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[RBW] Re: 700 x 32 tire recommendation, please...

2013-01-29 Thread samwell187
I like the Panaracer RiBMo tires, though I haven't put too many miles on to 
compare against, e.g., Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. The RiBMo's seem super 
beefy though, and everyone I know with them has been very happy with their 
performance.

-Sam

On Monday, January 28, 2013 6:41:46 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 What do you use with puncture protection?


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[RBW] Re: 700 x 32 tire recommendation, please...

2013-01-29 Thread mike
Jack Brown Blue.  Of course they claim 33-1/3 width so keep that in mind.  
Not a lot of miles yet, but they ride nicely.

On Monday, January 28, 2013 4:41:46 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 What do you use with puncture protection?


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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Philip Williamson
This is my preferred setup, too - widest Surly Dingle, and matching rings 
so the axle doesn't move. As Peter points out, you can climb more than you 
thought in a 70ish gear, and the low gear seems super low. Same-side 
switching takes seconds: Slide the rear wheel 1/2 forward and tighten the 
QR, derail the chain with a stick and roll the bike forward to drop onto 
the smaller ring. The chain is now pretty slack, so you can do the same 
operation to get onto the larger cog, then slide the wheel back to tension 
the chain. Ride away. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Monday, January 28, 2013 8:18:43 PM UTC-8, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): http://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog 
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html 

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
 the brakes.) 

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

 Overall, highly recommended. 


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight 
 tooth 
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White 
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly 
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on 
 that) 
  
  Eric Daume 
  Dublin OH 
  
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael 
  allenm...@mac.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 
  
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one in 
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles 
 moderate 
  hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats. I'm 
  wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with 
 two-in-front and 
  two-in-back, put on a moderate load, and ride it as far as San Diego or 
 Los 
  Angeles from here. 
  
  Thanks in advance. 
  
  Michael Allen 
  
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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Jim Mather
On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:53 AM, mike mike.rosen...@gmail.com wrote:

 32/22 (if you mean F/R) is great for climbing, but low for the flats unless
 you really love to spin!

Well, at the top of the mountain I flipped the gearing back to 40/16.

jim

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Philip Williamson
Yep. 

On Monday, January 28, 2013 8:45:11 PM UTC-8, Scot Brooks wrote:

 Here's a dummy question for the experienced 2x2 folks; how do you change 
 the gears when the chain is (presumably) under fairly high tension? Do you 
 give the wheel some slack in the dropout and then just tighten it back up?

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Scot - 

Yes.  I always loosen the axle before shifting.  Suppose if you were close 
enough in sprockets, you might be able to run it slack if you shift down, 
but if you are running close gearing, you probably are better off just 
standing up for a bit.

I've been toying with the idea of a 2-fer fixed cog, as climbing fixed is 
always more efficient for me, but there are definitely a few climbs where 
it's tough to keep the momentum with my fixed gearing.  It depends a lot on 
the type of riding your loops encounter.  I've been finding myself riding 
fixed more frequently on tighter trails, which is another view of the same 
equation.

Ray S also ran/runs a double-cog freewheel on his setup - viewable here:

http://cyclofiend.com/ssg/2007/ssg074-rayshine0307.html

- Jim

 
On Monday, January 28, 2013 8:45:11 PM UTC-8, Scot Brooks wrote:

 Here's a dummy question for the experienced 2x2 folks; how do you change 
 the gears when the chain is (presumably) under fairly high tension? Do you 
 give the wheel some slack in the dropout and then just tighten it back up?

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple gears
out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road and
one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to have a
light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54
off-road gear. One day, God willing.

While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a ss
is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and
multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of
cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of
a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly
26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me
(this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I
remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple
stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the
rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near
a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough.

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant
 tours on both coasts with this setup.

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel.

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**dingle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
 White Dos (freewheel):
 http://www.whiteind.com/**singlespeedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust
 the brakes.)

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness.

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.)

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things.

 Overall, highly recommended.


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com wrote:
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight
 tooth
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on
 that)
 
  Eric Daume
  Dublin OH
 
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael allenm...@mac.com
 wrote:
 
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one
 in
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles
 moderate
  hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats.
 I'm
  wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with
 two-in-front and
  two-in-back, put on a moderate load, and ride it as far as San Diego
 or Los
  Angeles from here.
 
  Thanks in advance.
 
  Michael Allen
 
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  RBW 

[RBW] Re: jack brown's

2013-01-29 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
John - 

No apology necessary - I wasn't calling you out.  Just in general trying to 
remind folks there's the accumulated wealth of many years of knowledge 
here.  With the newer web interface, it's not as obvious.

- Jim / doffing the list admin hat and heading back into the booth.



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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
That would be entirely irrational and wholly cool. I'd love one -- combine
it with a suicide front shifter, like Fausto.

Slo mo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtYKwDz1Lb8

In action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6UYOlN4FTU

Just for the music (used to play that on guitar) and the language -- not to
mention the excessively cool old iron:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxnECFxKuNQ


On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 8:22 AM, Scott G. sco...@primax.com wrote:

 Once you get to having a four speeds on your Quickbeam, you might as well
 go all the way and have it modified to use a Campagnolo Paris-Roubaix
 changer.
 Which is after all, history's most elaborate quick release.

 Dia-Compe Cambio Corsa anyone ?




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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Philip Williamson
In Sonoma County and Oregon's Willamette Valley, there are great valley 
rides that dead end into seriously steep climbs, often dirt. Having two 
fixed gear bikes on the same ride more than doubles the fun. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 10:31:04 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple gears 
 out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road and 
 one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to have a 
 light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54 
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a ss 
 is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and 
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of 
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of 
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly 
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me 
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I 
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple 
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the 
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near 
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this 
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty 
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range 
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth 
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**dingle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
  
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/**singlespeedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
  

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
 the brakes.) 

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

 Overall, highly recommended. 


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight 
 tooth 
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White 
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly 
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on 
 that) 
  
  Eric Daume 
  Dublin OH 
  
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael allenm...@mac.com 
 wrote: 
  
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one 
 in 
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles 
 moderate 
  hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats. 
 I'm 
  wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with 
 two-in-front and 
  two-in-back, put on a moderate load, and ride it as far as San Diego 
 or Los 
  Angeles from here. 
  
  Thanks in advance. 
  
  Michael Allen 
  
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  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups 
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  email to 

Re: [RBW] Riv Wrap Fest in Seattle

2013-01-29 Thread Reid

On Monday, January 28, 2013 5:11:17 PM UTC-8, René wrote: 

 I'll host it when you come to the SF Bay Area! Let me know I'm advance so 
 I can try to avoid a business trip if I can... 

 René 

 
If you can't avoid business, I've got a two-car garage (in Menlo Park) that 
would work well for such a gathering.
 
And Brian, thanks for the pic of diamonds around a curve. Looks just fine 
to me.
 
Reid

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I can see that -- two rings and two cogs can give you a considerably bigger
range with less chain movement than merely two cogs. I know that when I
rode fixed/single off road, finding the right compromise was a hassle. A
gear low enough for hills meant horrible flailing downhill and on the
flats. I finally settled on a 60 gear and walking more, but even this was
horrible on the flats, so I went back to multispeed off road. I still think
that I, personally, would prefer a double fixed rear and a single ring,
though, this for simplicity's sake.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 11:40 AM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 In Sonoma County and Oregon's Willamette Valley, there are great valley
 rides that dead end into seriously steep climbs, often dirt. Having two
 fixed gear bikes on the same ride more than doubles the fun.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com


 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 10:31:04 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple
 gears out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road
 and one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to
 have a light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a
 ss is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.com wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough.

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant
 tours on both coasts with this setup.

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel.

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**di**ngle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
 White Dos (freewheel):
 http://www.whiteind.com/**single**speedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust
 the brakes.)

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness.

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.)

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things.

 Overall, highly recommended.


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com wrote:
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight
 tooth
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19
 on that)
 
  Eric Daume
  Dublin OH
 
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael allenm...@mac.com
 wrote:
 
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one
 in
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it 

Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Peter Pesce
One thing that has always appealed to me about Rivs was their versatility. 
I like that the bikes allow for opportunities, enable multiple 
possibilities, rather than dictate or limit them. Yes, a true single-speed 
is perhaps more pure, but I really appreciate that Grant hit upon the 
idea that a one-at-a-time-speed bike offers essentially all the 
advantages of an only-one-ever-speed bike while providing more 
versatility. And nothing about it detracts from setting it up as a pure 
single if that's what you want.

Pete in CT

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:31:04 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple gears 
 out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road and 
 one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to have a 
 light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54 
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a ss 
 is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and 
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of 
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of 
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly 
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me 
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I 
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple 
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the 
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near 
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this 
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty 
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range 
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth 
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**dingle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
  
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/**singlespeedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
  

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
 the brakes.) 

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

 Overall, highly recommended. 


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight 
 tooth 
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White 
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly 
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on 
 that) 
  
  Eric Daume 
  Dublin OH 
  
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael allenm...@mac.com 
 wrote: 
  
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one 
 in 
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles 
 moderate 
  hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats. 
 I'm 
  wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with 
 two-in-front and 
  two-in-back, put on a moderate load, and ride it as far as San Diego 
 or Los 
  Angeles 

[RBW] Re: Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread William
Jenny is an ass-kicker, as are all RCW's

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:24:38 AM UTC-8, Liesl wrote:

 Okay, I retitled this because some may have just thought I was blabbering 
 on about visiting Riv again, and this Blug story is worthy of a hearty 
 response from us!

 see the 1/23 entry:
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

 Jenny, you showed true courage.


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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread Mike Schiller
I'm anxious to pick one up too. Hopefully they will show before summer 

Mike

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
True; one man's strange is another man's this is great!. Pursuing this
thread: Those of you who have such dual ring/dual cog setups: how often do
you shift, and when? I know that, with a flip flop and even a Dingle -- all
my fixies have either a cog on each side or a Dingle -- I often, when faced
with a climb or wind that is uncomfortable, think of the hassle of
loosening the nut or bolt, moving the chain, etc., and say, forget it and
just get off and walk. QR axles would certainly help. I'm curious how
others use their multiple fixed gears.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 11:53 AM, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:

 One thing that has always appealed to me about Rivs was their versatility.
 I like that the bikes allow for opportunities, enable multiple
 possibilities, rather than dictate or limit them. Yes, a true single-speed
 is perhaps more pure, but I really appreciate that Grant hit upon the
 idea that a one-at-a-time-speed bike offers essentially all the
 advantages of an only-one-ever-speed bike while providing more
 versatility. And nothing about it detracts from setting it up as a pure
 single if that's what you want.

 Pete in CT

 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:31:04 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple
 gears out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road
 and one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to
 have a light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a
 ss is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.com wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough.

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant
 tours on both coasts with this setup.

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel.

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**di**ngle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
 White Dos (freewheel):
 http://www.whiteind.com/**single**speedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust
 the brakes.)

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness.

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.)

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things.

 Overall, highly recommended.


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com wrote:
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight
 tooth
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to 

Re: [RBW] Re: Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread Peter Morgano
Good job, lady warriors. If everyone was so diligent than criminals would
have to work that much harder be dirtbags.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 1:58 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jenny is an ass-kicker, as are all RCW's


 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:24:38 AM UTC-8, Liesl wrote:

 Okay, I retitled this because some may have just thought I was blabbering
 on about visiting Riv again, and this Blug story is worthy of a hearty
 response from us!

 see the 1/23 entry:
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

 Jenny, you showed true courage.

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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread Scot Brooks
As a side note, I talked to Mark yesterday about the bags that'll be the 
companions of the rack. He hasn't had samples yet, but soon. Obviously I'm 
chomping at the bit to see/purchase those. 

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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread dougP
Tom:

This rack looks pretty good  may not need any connector between the 2 (I 
assume that's what you mean by hourglass).  I have the Tubus Duo  it's 
plenty solid.  An advantage to separate halves is the rack is easier to 
pack with the bike for shipping to a remote start.  

dougP

On Monday, January 28, 2013 4:31:12 PM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:

 I was just on the verge of buying a Tubus lowrider, but that looks pretty 
 good! I wonder if there'll be an attachment option for the lowrider 
 hourglass...

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Matt Beebe
I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple gears 
out of it.

IMHO that's what the QB was designed for;   that's why it came with two 
inch long, angled dropouts, stock double chainrings, and free/free hub so 
you could add your bailout of choice.It's not a singlespeed-   it has 
always featured 'digital shifting'.  

I have mine set up with the stock 40/32 up front, and a 16/19 white f/w 
with a 22t on the flip side for riding steep/tight bouldered and rooted 
trails in the woods.I don't shift often, but that's not the point-  
when I do shift, it's convenient to be able to.



On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:31:04 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple gears 
 out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road and 
 one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to have a 
 light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54 
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a ss 
 is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and 
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of 
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of 
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly 
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me 
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I 
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple 
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the 
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near 
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this 
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty 
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range 
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth 
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**dingle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
  
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/**singlespeedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
  

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
 the brakes.) 

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

 Overall, highly recommended. 


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight 
 tooth 
  cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White 
  Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly 
  Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on 
 that) 
  
  Eric Daume 
  Dublin OH 
  
  On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael allenm...@mac.com 
 wrote: 
  
  Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one 
 in 
  the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles 
 moderate 
  hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats. 
 I'm 
  wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with 
 two-in-front and 
  

Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Peter Pesce
Here in CT our hills tend to be relatively short and nasty, and I can't 
ride very far without hitting one. So the ability to shift is helpful if I 
want to go on a longer ride or explore new roads. I have a couple of 15 
mile routes that I can do in one gear, and I ride them frequently as I 
rarely have more than an hour to ride anyway, but longer than that and I'd 
need to climb something. Also, my local roads tend to be narrow and winding 
with no shoulder. I feel less safe (rationally or not) pushing a bike up a 
hill in that scenario than I do riding it. 

That said, I can do my normal 3 mile commute in one gear, so that, plus my 
typical short, flat routes means I probably only shift on one in ten rides. 
But if I limited myself to what I use 90% of the time I wouldn't need more 
then one bike, or a fly rod, or a 35mm film camera, or an espresso machine. 
And what's the fun in that?  So I surely could get away with one speed, but 
having the options has no down side to me so why not have them? And there's 
always the fantasy of the someday, future Quickbeam credit card tour around 
New England...

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 2:03:16 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 True; one man's strange is another man's this is great!. Pursuing this 
 thread: Those of you who have such dual ring/dual cog setups: how often do 
 you shift, and when? I know that, with a flip flop and even a Dingle -- all 
 my fixies have either a cog on each side or a Dingle -- I often, when faced 
 with a climb or wind that is uncomfortable, think of the hassle of 
 loosening the nut or bolt, moving the chain, etc., and say, forget it and 
 just get off and walk. QR axles would certainly help. I'm curious how 
 others use their multiple fixed gears.

 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 11:53 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 One thing that has always appealed to me about Rivs was their 
 versatility. I like that the bikes allow for opportunities, enable multiple 
 possibilities, rather than dictate or limit them. Yes, a true single-speed 
 is perhaps more pure, but I really appreciate that Grant hit upon the 
 idea that a one-at-a-time-speed bike offers essentially all the 
 advantages of an only-one-ever-speed bike while providing more 
 versatility. And nothing about it detracts from setting it up as a pure 
 single if that's what you want.

 Pete in CT

 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:31:04 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple 
 gears out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road 
 and one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to 
 have a light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54 
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a 
 ss is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and 
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of 
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of 
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly 
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me 
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I 
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple 
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the 
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near 
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.com wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with 
 this 
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty 
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth 
 range 
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth 
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**di**ngle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
  
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 

Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Ray Shine
I agree. I pedal over to base of Mt. Tam in one gear, switch to the second for 
the climb, then back to other gear for descent and ride home. I do that a lot, 
on all sorts of varied Nor Cal terrain.

--- On Tue, 1/29/13, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

From: Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Tuesday, January 29, 2013, 10:40 AM

In Sonoma County and Oregon's Willamette Valley, there are great valley rides 
that dead end into seriously steep climbs, often dirt. Having two fixed gear 
bikes on the same ride more than doubles the fun. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 10:31:04 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple gears out 
of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road and one for 
off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to have a light, ss 
29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54 off-road gear. One 
day, God willing.

While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a ss is 
odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and multiple 
speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of cash after 
buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of a horrible 
Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly 26 wheels, this 
gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me (this was almost 25 
years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I remember riding with my flame 
at the time over a jeep track with multiple stream crossings and enjoying 
watching the water flow into and out of the rear hub. It continued to work fine 
until I finally abandoned the bike near a dumpster with the usual free to good 
home sign.


On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.com wrote:
There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like Colin, 
go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the matched 
tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this set up so 
it's obviously very effective!

Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty easy, but 
getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range of the QB/SO 
dropout is tough. 

Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth range?

-Pete in CT


On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:
I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
tours on both coasts with this setup. 

I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

Surly Dingle (fixed): http://surlybikes.com/parts/di ngle_cog 
White Dos (freewheel): 
http://www.whiteind.com/single speedgearing/freewheels.html 

With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
the brakes.) 

In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

Overall, highly recommended. 


On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com wrote: 
 I believe the QB (and by extension the SO) can handle up to an eight tooth 
 cog difference. So you could for instance use a 32/40 and 16/19 White 
 Industries hub to get four gears (I do this on my QB wannabe Surly 
 Crosscheck, but it's only good up to six teeth--I run 34/40 x 16/19 on that) 
 
 Eric Daume 
 Dublin OH 
 
 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:22 PM, allenmichael allenm...@mac.com wrote: 
 
 Currently, I have a S1 set up simply with one in the front and one in 
 the back. I'm not sure how many gear inches I have but it handles moderate 
 hills in San Francisco comfortably and isn't too slow on the flats. I'm 
 wondering though about whether I could set up the bike with two-in-front and 
 two-in-back, put on a moderate load, and ride it as far as San Diego or Los 
 Angeles from here. 
 
 Thanks in advance. 
 
 

Re: [RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Stephen S
umm $125.90 but still a decent amount...

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 8:27:31 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 Matthew, 80 quid is $150+

 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:34:46 AM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:

 Currently available in Europe, but should find their way here soon:
  
 http://www.velorution.com/abus-kranium-aks1-cardboard-helmet/
  
 Imagine they will be plenty light.  The regular addition no doubt will 
 not have clear outer lining.



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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread William
I saw that too, and I'm also excited about it.  However, I'm in a bit of a 
pickle because I don't have any upper eyelets.  Neither my Hilsen nor my 
Bombadil has double eyelets on the fork tips.  I emailed Mark if it would 
fit, and he replied that the rack was indeed designed to go on upper 
eyelets, but he indicated that I could measure the eyelet to dogbone 
distance.  If that distance is 135mm or less, it ought to work on the lower 
eyelets too.  

Are there any other Bombadil owners out there with only lower eyelets on 
the fork tips?  Is mine a rarity?  I really liked the look of these fork 
tips...all minimalist and sleek, but now I'm starting to envy more 
attachment points.  

On Monday, January 28, 2013 4:23:03 PM UTC-8, Marty wrote:

 Updated photo on the email I just got. Looks great!

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Robert F. Harrison
Mine's the 40/32 - 16/19 with a flip side 22 as well. I've used the 22
exactly twice. But darn, I'm glad I had it. Both times were when I was
fully loaded with camping gear and tackling a BFH (oddly my initials when
using Bob instead of Robert and Big F'ing Hill. I'm glad I had it.

When I first got the bike I rode 40/16 pretty much all the time because
many of my rides were of the longer weekend sort. As I kept at it the QB
became my commuter bike and I found it's much easier for me to ride start
and stop city riding in 40/19. I have a bit of arthritis in one hip and
it's wee bit too stressful to try for quick starts at lights with traffic
behind me. With 40/19 I'm good to go and frankly, since mostly I'm only
going to go a couple of blocks before I have to stop another light I don't
tend to spin out (which I do just over 15mph in that gear).

These days I use my Hunq for loaded camping so I wouldn't really need the
22, but there's no real point in taking it off. If I have to rebuild my
rear wheel I'll probably do that and perhaps go to a 16/18.

Of course, now that I've spent all this time thinking about it I may have
to go back to 40/16 just to see if my legs are stronger than they were last
year. The more I ride the stronger I am, the more I age (55 currently) the
weaker I am. If I can stay even I'm happy. :-)

Aloha,

Bob




On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 9:25 AM, Matt Beebe matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple
 gears out of it.

 IMHO that's what the QB was designed for;   that's why it came with two
 inch long, angled dropouts, stock double chainrings, and free/free hub so
 you could add your bailout of choice.It's not a singlespeed-   it has
 always featured 'digital shifting'.

 I have mine set up with the stock 40/32 up front, and a 16/19 white f/w
 with a 22t on the flip side for riding steep/tight bouldered and rooted
 trails in the woods.I don't shift often, but that's not the point-
 when I do shift, it's convenient to be able to.




 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:31:04 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple
 gears out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road
 and one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to
 have a light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a
 ss is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.com wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with this
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth range
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough.

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant
 tours on both coasts with this setup.

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel.

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**di**ngle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
 White Dos (freewheel):
 http://www.whiteind.com/**single**speedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust
 the brakes.)

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more
 fiddly than my 

[RBW] Re: Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread Jim M.
Great work, Jenny! Got the bike and the plate number. I hope the police 
catch them.

I've always kind of wondered about RBW leaving the boxed bikes out on the 
driveway, though I guess if it had been a problem before now they would 
have changed. I hope this incident is an isolated one.

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:24:38 AM UTC-8, Liesl wrote:

 Okay, I retitled this because some may have just thought I was blabbering 
 on about visiting Riv again, and this Blug story is worthy of a hearty 
 response from us!

 see the 1/23 entry:
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

 Jenny, you showed true courage.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Helmet recomendations

2013-01-29 Thread Matthew J
Oops.  Cut off part of my post.  Made in Germany to European safety 
standards.  The design of the Kranium is specifically meant to take 
multiple hits.  Most other helmets are only warranted for one hit.
On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 3:28:01 PM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote: 

 That price is for the limited edition with the clear plastic cover.   I 
 imagine the regular will be less.  The Abus is made in Germany to 

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[RBW] Speaking of gearing ...

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I was glad of the 57, 49, and 40 low gears just now (cruising is 69) on
my brief (too damn' cold and windy) 12 mile errand ride which on return
involved 4 miles of uphill against a 28 mph wind gusting to 38 -- mid 30s.
(OTOH, I reached speeds outbound that I am usually not capable of.)

Riv content: glad I didn't ride a Riv! I rode the Fargo with Kojaks. (Both
running Rivs are fixed, the Ram is waiting for cables and housing and
Stan's on discount from LA).

More Riv content: the Midge bar is the ideal Moustache bar. Nitto should
make one.

-- 

-
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For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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Re: [RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Thanks, Michael. Can you tell me what, roughly, is the actual diameter of
your 650B wheels?

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 The SKS site says the P45 is for a 28 wheel. This may be why is doesn't
 conform to all wheel diameters on the front fender, fore of the brake mount.


 The rear fender is no problem on my 650b, but the front fender doesn't
 conform to the front wheel (at least on mine). Nothing functionally wrong
 with that, just a looks thing.

 --

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/**index.htmlhttp://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread Toshi Takeuchi
I'm glad everything turned out A-OK (and I hope you catch the
sleaze-bags).  We can always replace bikes but not people, eh?

Cheers,
Toshi

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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread Mike Schiller
I thought this rack was designed to fit between upper eyelets and mid fork 
( not low rider) rack mounts?  At 135mm  min that would fit low rider 
mounts too.  I wonder what the max distance is between the eyelet and the 
midfork mount is ?   I would think it would accommodate 650B and 700c bikes.

I'm also thinking that forward bolt tab could mount to a Nitto Mini Campee 
or Marks rack with some connector rods for extra support?  That would be 
the bee's knee's!

~mike





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[RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread bwphoto
Here are a couple of links from Sheldon Brown that may help, so far they 
are the clearest articles I cold find.
http://sheldonbrown.com/650b.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:15:52 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:

 From the Riv site, about the P45 Longboards:
 *
 *
 *Only available in one size for now, the P45, which fits 650B and 700c 
 wheels up to 45mm wide mediumish fat tires. Works on 26 wheeled bikes, for 
 super duper coverage, but you'll need to take off the long front fender 
 flap or swap it out with the shorty 
 flap.http://http//www.rivbike.com/product-p/fe92.htm
 *
 *
 *
 Has anyone ever tried to mount these on a frame meant for 26 wheels? 
 Scuttlebutt says that heat can help plastic fenders acquire and keep a 
 slightly new shape without external tension (as from the stays, tension 
 that might cause them to crack prematurely)? I'm game to invest and try 
 (this for the '03 errand Riv with 25 actual diameter wheels), but if 
 someone has already done so and found it a losing proposition, I'd be 
 grateful to hear about it before spending.

 Thanks.

 -- 

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -


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[RBW] Re: Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread Philip Williamson
Yes! That's pretty amazing, daring and brave. 
I probably would have stood there with my mouth open as they sped away. Or 
ridden into a wall in amazement. I'm visualizing being someone who yells, 
What the f*ck do you think you're doing?! and moves to intercept. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:24:38 AM UTC-8, Liesl wrote:

 Okay, I retitled this because some may have just thought I was blabbering 
 on about visiting Riv again, and this Blug story is worthy of a hearty 
 response from us!

 see the 1/23 entry:
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

 Jenny, you showed true courage.


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Re: [RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Thanks for those links. I am very familiar with 559 and 622 wheel sizes.
What I meant to ask is: with a 35 mm 622 wheel measuring roughly 27 1/2 in
diameter, and a 559 X 32 mm wheel measuring roughly 25 in diameter -- so
that there is fully a 2 1/2 difference -- will the Longboard P45s be in
any manner adaptable to the latter?

Riv's website copy says that they will be adaptable. I ask: have any of you
actually installed SKS Longboard P 45 fenders, as advertised by Rivendell,
on anything that can in any way be truthfully described as a twenty six
inch wheel? If so, I'd be very grateful for details.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 4:58 PM, bwphoto bwphotograph...@gmail.com wrote:

 Here are a couple of links from Sheldon Brown that may help, so far they
 are the clearest articles I cold find.
 http://sheldonbrown.com/650b.html
 http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:15:52 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:

 From the Riv site, about the P45 Longboards:
 *
 *
 *Only available in one size for now, the P45, which fits 650B and 700c
 wheels up to 45mm wide mediumish fat tires. Works on 26 wheeled bikes, for
 super duper coverage, but you'll need to take off the long front fender
 flap or swap it out with the shorty 
 flap.http://http//www.rivbike.com/product-p/fe92.htm
 *
 *
 *
 Has anyone ever tried to mount these on a frame meant for 26 wheels?
 Scuttlebutt says that heat can help plastic fenders acquire and keep a
 slightly new shape without external tension (as from the stays, tension
 that might cause them to crack prematurely)? I'm game to invest and try
 (this for the '03 errand Riv with 25 actual diameter wheels), but if
 someone has already done so and found it a losing proposition, I'd be
 grateful to hear about it before spending.

 Thanks.

 --

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/**index.htmlhttp://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Virtuous violence! I am all for it! You go, girls!

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 5:02 PM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes! That's pretty amazing, daring and brave.
 I probably would have stood there with my mouth open as they sped away. Or
 ridden into a wall in amazement. I'm visualizing being someone who yells,
 What the f*ck do you think you're doing?! and moves to intercept.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:24:38 AM UTC-8, Liesl wrote:

 Okay, I retitled this because some may have just thought I was blabbering
 on about visiting Riv again, and this Blug story is worthy of a hearty
 response from us!

 see the 1/23 entry:
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

 Jenny, you showed true courage.

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Philip Williamson
I find the two rings make things simpler than not. The chainline is better 
in each gear; the axle doesn't move, so the fender line is good; and if 
you're maxing out the tire width at the chainstays, you don't have an issue 
as the tire moves. The only complication is a heavier, more expensive 
drivetrain, and the OCD desire to have 0 axle movement. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com


On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 10:50:05 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I can see that -- two rings and two cogs can give you a considerably 
 bigger range with less chain movement than merely two cogs. I know that 
 when I rode fixed/single off road, finding the right compromise was a 
 hassle. A gear low enough for hills meant horrible flailing downhill and on 
 the flats. I finally settled on a 60 gear and walking more, but even this 
 was horrible on the flats, so I went back to multispeed off road. I still 
 think that I, personally, would prefer a double fixed rear and a single 
 ring, though, this for simplicity's sake.

 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 11:40 AM, Philip Williamson 
 philip.w...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 In Sonoma County and Oregon's Willamette Valley, there are great valley 
 rides that dead end into seriously steep climbs, often dirt. Having two 
 fixed gear bikes on the same ride more than doubles the fun. 

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com


 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 10:31:04 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I think it is strange to buy a SS and try to get a range of multiple 
 gears out of it. OTOH, I can see rigging a ss with two ratios, one for road 
 and one for off road: the Dingle cog is excellent for that. I'd love to 
 have a light, ss 29er with, say, a 39X17/21 for a 67 on-road gear and a 54 
 off-road gear. One day, God willing.

 While I think multiple sprocket and cog combos on what is designed as a 
 ss is odd, I do sympathize with the conflicting desires for simplicity and 
 multiple speeds. IMO, the good ol' AW is the way to go. Long ago, short of 
 cash after buying my first decent road bike, I hacked an off roader out of 
 a horrible Schwinn 3 speed with a 36 ring and an 18 cog. With the roughly 
 26 wheels, this gave me gears of 39, 52, and 69 inches which suited me 
 (this was almost 25 years ago when I was young and buff) off road. (I 
 remember riding with my flame at the time over a jeep track with multiple 
 stream crossings and enjoying watching the water flow into and out of the 
 rear hub. It continued to work fine until I finally abandoned the bike near 
 a dumpster with the usual free to good home sign.


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Peter Pesce pete...@gmail.com wrote:

 There seem to be two kinds of strategy with the 2x2 set ups. Some, like 
 Colin, go for essentially two gears, as far apart a practical keeping the 
 matched tooth difference. He's done a TON more riding than I have with 
 this 
 set up so it's obviously very effective!

 Others try to get 3 or 4 different ratios out of the 2x2. 3 is pretty 
 easy, but getting a 4th useful ratio while staying within the 8 tooth 
 range 
 of the QB/SO dropout is tough. 

 Does anyone have a 2x2 set-up with 4 useful gears within the 8 tooth 
 range?

 -Pete in CT


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 11:18:43 PM UTC-5, Colin B. wrote:

 I've ridden 2x2 fixed for touring since 2007 - first an IRO Rob Roy 
 and now a Simple One. I've done cross country and some significant 
 tours on both coasts with this setup. 

 I'm a fan of the widest spaced Surly Dingle (17/21) and when using it 
 I match the tooth difference on a double up front (ex.: 44/40) so the 
 wheel doesn't move when I switch between two useable gear 
 combinations, ex.: 44/17 (high) and 40/21 (low). The White Industries 
 Dos is as similar concept but a freewheel. 

 Surly Dingle (fixed): 
 http://surlybikes.com/parts/**di**ngle_coghttp://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog
  
 White Dos (freewheel): 
 http://www.whiteind.com/**single**speedgearing/freewheels.**htmlhttp://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
  

 With the Dingle and a matched-tooth-difference double gear changes are 
 quite fast. (You don't need to flip the wheel and won't need to adjust 
 the brakes.) 

 In practice, you can have a wider range or more than two useable gears 
 going the 2x2 route, but accomplishing these things is a bit more 
 fiddly than my set up, and w/r/t touring I resist fiddly-ness. 

 Up front, 42/38 is the sweet spot for me for loaded touring. This 
 gives me 68 and 49. The idea is that the high gear is for 98% of the 
 time. The low gear is for when you're heading north in Glacier on a 
 long day, or nursing an injury. (Or if you're less religious or dumb 
 than me, save your knees and use the low gear whenever appropriate.) 

 The hardest part of this setup is getting the chainline perfect in 
 both gear combinations - if you worry about those sorts of things. 

 Overall, highly recommended. 


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.com 
 wrote: 
 

Re: [RBW] Re: Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread Eric Platt
Never, ever, mess with a drummer.  Great job Jenny!  (Would have written
about it earlier but was too preoccupied with a gig this past weekend.)

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 6:05 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Virtuous violence! I am all for it! You go, girls!


 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 5:02 PM, Philip Williamson 
 philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes! That's pretty amazing, daring and brave.
 I probably would have stood there with my mouth open as they sped away.
 Or ridden into a wall in amazement. I'm visualizing being someone who
 yells, What the f*ck do you think you're doing?! and moves to intercept.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:24:38 AM UTC-8, Liesl wrote:

 Okay, I retitled this because some may have just thought I was
 blabbering on about visiting Riv again, and this Blug story is worthy of a
 hearty response from us!

 see the 1/23 entry:
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

 Jenny, you showed true courage.

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[RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread shawn
Michael,
Do you have a photo of the front fender not conforming the way you would 
like it to? The reason I ask is because I am in the process of installing 
longboards on my wife's Betty and would like to see some of the possible 
fit issues. My first test fit had the front of the fender forward of the 
brake tilting upward. I am waiting on new tires before I do the final 
install. 

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 4:16:41 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 The SKS site says the P45 is for a 28 wheel. This may be why is doesn't 
 conform to all wheel diameters on the front fender, fore of the brake mount.

  
 The rear fender is no problem on my 650b, but the front fender doesn't 
 conform to the front wheel (at least on mine). Nothing functionally wrong 
 with that, just a looks thing.

 -- 

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 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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[RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread Michael


 Yes, here is a pic.

You can see how the rear fender is great, but the front isn't.
 
You can also see it happening at the end of the riv video for the longboard 
installation in the final seconds when it shows the finished installation 
on their bike.
 
Even with my fender backed way off (moreso than in my pic) and trying 
many adjustments, it just wants to rise away. 
Doesn't really bother me, and the fenders work great. Just an aesthetics 
thing.
 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/8049473099/in/photostream

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam/Simple One Gearing Ranges?

2013-01-29 Thread Nick Worthington

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 11:03:16 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 snip ...I often, when faced with a climb or wind that is uncomfortable, 
 think of the hassle of loosening the nut or bolt, moving the chain, etc., 
 and say, forget it and just get off and walk. QR axles would certainly 
 help. 

  
I use NOS wing nuts on my hubs.  I had a 16-17 dual cog freewheel, which 
was fairly easy to change between, but it was a cheapo indian one - which 
came apart one day.  Between wing nuts and a flip-flop hub, it was fairly 
quick to get back on the road again.  Still need to replace that freewheel 
- I have an old 3-cog one I might try
 
Nick W.

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[RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread shawn
Thanks Michael. That is how the front fender looked on my test fit on the 
Betty and I also have the same problem on my regular SKS fenders on my 
Atlantis. Maybe I am doing something wrong during the installation.  

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 8:08:26 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 Yes, here is a pic.

 You can see how the rear fender is great, but the front isn't.
  
 You can also see it happening at the end of the riv video for the 
 longboard installation in the final seconds when it shows the finished 
 installation on their bike.
  
 Even with my fender backed way off (moreso than in my pic) and trying 
 many adjustments, it just wants to rise away. 
 Doesn't really bother me, and the fenders work great. Just an aesthetics 
 thing.
  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/8049473099/in/photostream


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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread Tom Harrop
Guess I'm not the only one wanting a lowrider for the start of touring 
season...! To avoid doubling up on emails to Riv, has anyone already asked 
about an ETA for it?

Doug:

Sorry about the garbled message, what I was wondering was whether the new 
Riv rack would attach to the lowrider mounts on my Bomba, because the 
mid-fork mount is already taken by a Mini Front. Actually the Duo was the 
Tubus rack I was about to get, I use 60 mm Big Apples and tyre clearance is 
another good reason to have two separate rack-halves.

William:

The distance from lowrider mount to lower eyelet on my Bomba is spot on 165 
mm, i.e. perfect for a Tubus lowrider. Don't see how it could be less than 
135 mm. Or am I confused again here?

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[RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread Michael


 Patrick,
  

My front wheel with tire height measurement:
Twin Hollow 650b rim, with Fatty Rumpkin at 60psi, when standing upright as 
close top level as possible and off the bike = 26.5 from floor to top edge 
of tire, measured along center of wheel, with the tape as close as possible 
to wheel without bending it over the hub. Eyeballed at level with top edge 
of tire.
 
25 from floor to top rim edge.
592mm from rim to rim measuring just in front of the hub, as the only way 
for a true rim measurement would be to remove the rim from spokes.
I am guessing it would be 584mm edge to edge off the hub/spokes. 

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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread Mike Schiller
I was thinking to mount both the mini front rack and the HA rack to the 
same midfork mount. I don't see why it wouldn't hold both.  I wonder what 
Riv thinks about that?   

~mike

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 5:32:15 PM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Guess I'm not the only one wanting a lowrider for the start of touring 
 season...! To avoid doubling up on emails to Riv, has anyone already asked 
 about an ETA for it?

 Doug:

 Sorry about the garbled message, what I was wondering was whether the new 
 Riv rack would attach to the lowrider mounts on my Bomba, because the 
 mid-fork mount is already taken by a Mini Front. Actually the Duo was the 
 Tubus rack I was about to get, I use 60 mm Big Apples and tyre clearance is 
 another good reason to have two separate rack-halves.

 William:

 The distance from lowrider mount to lower eyelet on my Bomba is spot on 
 165 mm, i.e. perfect for a Tubus lowrider. Don't see how it could be less 
 than 135 mm. Or am I confused again here?


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[RBW] Re: jack brown's

2013-01-29 Thread BSWP
On the QuickBeam, my JB Blues measure 35.5 mm, on 24.3 mm Dyad rims. I'm 
going to try a pair on my LongLow, and hope that its narrower rims, 22 mm, 
will contain the tire closer to 33.33 mm. The LongLow has rather limited 
room for wide tires!

- Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread William
Tom

I think I confused this thread by forwarding Marks instructions before I 
got a chance to measure.  Mark's email, which I double checked, must have 
been a typo.  He probably meant 235mm, not 135.  

I'll wait for Mark to confirm numbers but the unambiguous part is that the 
HA Rack is designed to go on the upper eyelets on the fork tip and the mid 
fork braze ons.  It is perfectly fine to share that mid fork braze on 
between both the HA Rack and a Nitto Mini or a Marks Rack.  It's already 
been pictured that way on the Blug.  It is not designed to go to the 
lowrider braze on, which is mounted lower than the mid fork braze on.  

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 5:32:15 PM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Guess I'm not the only one wanting a lowrider for the start of touring 
 season...! To avoid doubling up on emails to Riv, has anyone already asked 
 about an ETA for it?

 Doug:

 Sorry about the garbled message, what I was wondering was whether the new 
 Riv rack would attach to the lowrider mounts on my Bomba, because the 
 mid-fork mount is already taken by a Mini Front. Actually the Duo was the 
 Tubus rack I was about to get, I use 60 mm Big Apples and tyre clearance is 
 another good reason to have two separate rack-halves.

 William:

 The distance from lowrider mount to lower eyelet on my Bomba is spot on 
 165 mm, i.e. perfect for a Tubus lowrider. Don't see how it could be less 
 than 135 mm. Or am I confused again here?


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[RBW] Re: Speaking of gearing ...

2013-01-29 Thread Jeremy Till
 Midge bar is the ideal Moustache bar. Nitto should make one. 


YES

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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread Mike Schiller
the 235mm  must be a max measurement. I just measured my two customs which 
both have mid fork mounts.The 650B measures 205mm from the upper eyelet and 
the 700c measures 215m to the mount. 

It would be nice to get an approx. arrival date too.

~mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread Dan McNamara
Same look on my SO's Betty (50cm) with the longboards. Not as pronounced as 
they are mounted with a Sheldon fender nut and under a Mark's rack. But still. 

Thinking about using a second stay to get the front to conform. Or perhaps 
something off the rack. Too bad the rack does not have a fender mount built in. 

Dan

Marin

On Jan 29, 2013, at 5:21 PM, shawn shawn.adki...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Thanks Michael. That is how the front fender looked on my test fit on the 
 Betty and I also have the same problem on my regular SKS fenders on my 
 Atlantis. Maybe I am doing something wrong during the installation.  
 
 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 8:08:26 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
 
 Yes, here is a pic.
 You can see how the rear fender is great, but the front isn't.
  
 You can also see it happening at the end of the riv video for the longboard 
 installation in the final seconds when it shows the finished installation on 
 their bike.
  
 Even with my fender backed way off (moreso than in my pic) and trying 
 many adjustments, it just wants to rise away. 
 Doesn't really bother me, and the fenders work great. Just an aesthetics 
 thing.
  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/8049473099/in/photostream
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[RBW] Polling what's the best 650b touring tire?

2013-01-29 Thread hsmitham
Hey RBW riders, curious what you all think is the best  650b  700c tire 
for touring? Is it even possible to have a plush ride with decent flat 
resistance?

Hugh
Sunland, Ca

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Re: [RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Michael: thanks a lot. The fender line follows the tire quite closely -- I
can see the deviations, but they are not great -- and I am up to trying the
same fenders with a 559X32 mm (actual; 34 mm labeled) tire. Other lists
have suggestions for shaping plastic fenders (gently!) in a mellow oven --
250*F; I may try those.

OTOH, I think SKS makes a 559X50 ...? But not in cream.

Choices, choices.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 6:08 PM, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, here is a pic.

 You can see how the rear fender is great, but the front isn't.

 You can also see it happening at the end of the riv video for the
 longboard installation in the final seconds when it shows the finished
 installation on their bike.

 Even with my fender backed way off (moreso than in my pic) and trying
 many adjustments, it just wants to rise away.
 Doesn't really bother me, and the fenders work great. Just an aesthetics
 thing.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/8049473099/in/photostream

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Re: [RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Dan: is the Betty 559 or 584?

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 8:49 PM, Dan McNamara djmcnam...@gmail.com wrote:

 Same look on my SO's Betty (50cm) with the longboards. Not as pronounced
 as they are mounted with a Sheldon fender nut and under a Mark's rack. But
 still.

 Thinking about using a second stay to get the front to conform. Or perhaps
 something off the rack. Too bad the rack does not have a fender mount built
 in.

 Dan

 Marin

 On Jan 29, 2013, at 5:21 PM, shawn shawn.adki...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Thanks Michael. That is how the front fender looked on my test fit on the
 Betty and I also have the same problem on my regular SKS fenders on my
 Atlantis. Maybe I am doing something wrong during the installation.

 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 8:08:26 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 Yes, here is a pic.

 You can see how the rear fender is great, but the front isn't.

 You can also see it happening at the end of the riv video for the
 longboard installation in the final seconds when it shows the finished
 installation on their bike.

 Even with my fender backed way off (moreso than in my pic) and trying
 many adjustments, it just wants to rise away.
 Doesn't really bother me, and the fenders work great. Just an aesthetics
 thing.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/**70237737@N00/8049473099/in/**photostreamhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/8049473099/in/photostream

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[RBW] Re: Polling what's the best 650b touring tire?

2013-01-29 Thread Manuel Acosta
I don't know about 700c but for 650b by far my favorite tire. Good for 
anything. Great at nothing. are
Schwalbe Marathon wire GreenGuard 
Lovely tire. Find it just good enough to do anything. From long road rides 
to rutty dirt trails. Granted they seem a tad heavy and the tread isn't 
ideal for loose, gravely stuff. But I feel that every tire can be good for 
anything. Lots of the feel of the bike is based on your own riding 
abilities. The beauty of this tire is that you don't have to over think 
about what your riding on. Just go.

My 2 cents

*
*
On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 7:56:43 PM UTC-8, hsmitham wrote:

 Hey RBW riders, curious what you all think is the best  650b  700c tire 
 for touring? Is it even possible to have a plush ride with decent flat 
 resistance?

 Hugh
 Sunland, Ca


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[RBW] Re: Jenny at Riv may have saved your Sam from being stolen

2013-01-29 Thread Joe K
Well, *I'M* impressed!  Brava, Jenny!  Although I was more startled to
hear that there's criminal activity of any sort in a place as many
BART stops away as Walnut Creek!  (NB:  Been there, but as an East
Coaster, I don't really know the area that well.)

Joe

On Jan 29, 7:59 pm, Eric Platt epericmpl...@gmail.com wrote:
 Never, ever, mess with a drummer.  Great job Jenny!  (Would have written
 about it earlier but was too preoccupied with a gig this past weekend.)

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN



 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 6:05 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  Virtuous violence! I am all for it! You go, girls!

  On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 5:02 PM, Philip Williamson 
  philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

  Yes! That's pretty amazing, daring and brave.
  I probably would have stood there with my mouth open as they sped away.
  Or ridden into a wall in amazement. I'm visualizing being someone who
  yells, What the f*ck do you think you're doing?! and moves to intercept.

  Philip
 www.biketinker.com

  On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:24:38 AM UTC-8, Liesl wrote:

  Okay, I retitled this because some may have just thought I was
  blabbering on about visiting Riv again, and this Blug story is worthy of a
  hearty response from us!

  see the 1/23 entry:
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

  Jenny, you showed true courage.

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[RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread Michael


 Patrick,

The Longboard has an aluminum strip. But I think it may just be thin like 
foil. So maybe a heat gun or blow drier would work.
When I mounted my Spanninga light on the rear fender, a regular wood drill 
bit passed right through the fender as if it was all plastic. Didn;t feel a 
change as it hit the aluminum.
So I think the aluminum strip must be pretty thin/flexible and may move 
easily with the heated plastic that is around it.
 
I want to try to use a blow drier on my front fender to see what happens.
I'll let you know. I hope to try tomorrow.

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[RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread Michael


 Patrick,
 The problem I have is the unsupported front end of the front fender (the 
 part in front of the brake) rises away from the tire, giving it a 
 cyclocross bike fender look, if you know what I mean. Like a BMX fendered 
 bik used for dirt jumps. Ha ha.


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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread oldmangabe
It looks like an interesting rack. 

I wonder about flex or sway of the rack under the weight of a bag when 
riding the bike.  It only looks like there are two attachment points for 
the rack, and it looks like they are all along the fork.  It appears that 
they basically in line with each other along a narrow plane.  I seems that 
a third attachment point would be best for stabilizing the HA rack and it's 
load.  Look at how the Nitto Campee Lowrider rack attaches the pannier 
mount, or how most other French inspired lowirder rack systems mount to a 
fork.  The pannier mount on the Campee has three bolts which triangulate 
the bag mounting section to the rack. Other French inspired lowriders (as 
well as the originals), also have three points of contact; forkblade, 
eyelet, and then a strut to the small hbar bag platform rack.  Also, there 
is a reason why Tubus and Blackburn lowriders have the connecting hoop 
going over the tire, to create a third attachment point and to brace the 
pannier mounts.  Maybe I am missing something though?  

I will be interested to see what Riv eventually unveils. 

Gabe 

On Monday, January 28, 2013 4:23:03 PM UTC-8, Marty wrote:

 Updated photo on the email I just got. Looks great!

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Re: [RBW] Re: People I meet on the internet...

2013-01-29 Thread oldmangabe
David,

Glad you enjoyed the visit!  Breezers are pretty great dedicated city 
bikes.  If you can join up on any more of Esteban's northerly road trips, 
we all should do a more chill non sanctioned rando ride.  

Till next time.

Gabe

On Monday, January 28, 2013 10:47:48 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Stopping by Box Doghttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/8414647351/was 
 a great way to spend some time in the city! Good store, good wares, and 
 good people... BDB is everything I expected to find! 

 Buddy we were staying with just might end up with a Breezer out of it, 
 too!!!


 On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 10:35 PM, oldmangabe oldma...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 It was great to meet you.  Thanks for coming up, and coming by the shop. 
 Glad you had a good time. 

 Gabe


 On Monday, January 28, 2013 8:06:26 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 It's a fact: The individuals in this group are some of the best out 
 there. It's really pretty amazing. These connections have inspired a lot of 
 conversation and bike rides over the years, and this weekend was no 
 exception! This particular adventure started a month or so ago, when 
 Esteban suggested going up to do the SFR 200K. I didn't think I could do 
 that, but hoped to do the populaire. Illness took it's toll between then 
 and now, and that wasn't an option anymore. But I still really wanted to go 
 up north! We talked about it and recruited a couple friends... instant road 
 trip! They would do the 200K while I figured something easier to do, either 
 a ride in Walnut Creek or Marin.

 From the contacts I made on this list (friends on the internet!), I was 
 basically able to go up to the Bay Area, crash at someone's house, meander 
 about the city, and get a guided tour of Marin county courtesy of Gino and 
 Philip. Then go back to San Francisco and have Gino guide my around by text 
 when I was wondering about where to go. Unbelievably good time! 

 It ended up being an 11 hour day (mostly) on the bike, so much for 
 taking it easy! Climbing up to the east peak of Tam was a lot of work for 
 me, but finally made it. Some of the most incredible views I've ever seen. 
 A blast coming down, although sore arms two days later! Then a great ride 
 through the mean city streets of San Francisco (totally took the lane 
 coming down Bay). 

 Only regrets are not being to meet up with Cyclofiend Jim due to 
 illness, not getting out to see Harry at Walnut Creek and had hoped to have 
 said hi to a few more folks at the beginning of the rando, but limited to a 
 quick hello to John  Lee. It looked like you all had a great ride, minus 
 that wind! Everyone there was really nice to my buddy John who came up to 
 do his first organized ride and jumped right into it.

 Here are my pics of the weekend, only good times: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/**cyclotourist/sets/**
 72157632627267769/with/**8421640123/http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157632627267769/with/8421640123/

 So yeah, good people here! A nice cozy spot in the intertubes to call 
 home... Thanks to all of you!

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 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 **
 Censorship is telling a man he can't have a steak just because a baby 
 can't chew it. -*Mark Twain*
  

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[RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread William
My Marks Rack helps conceal the front end rising.  I posted a few photos of 
my 650B Hilsen, which now has silver Longboards.  I'll save the Honjos for 
another project

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/8429257730/in/photostream

On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 5:08:26 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 Yes, here is a pic.

 You can see how the rear fender is great, but the front isn't.
  
 You can also see it happening at the end of the riv video for the 
 longboard installation in the final seconds when it shows the finished 
 installation on their bike.
  
 Even with my fender backed way off (moreso than in my pic) and trying 
 many adjustments, it just wants to rise away. 
 Doesn't really bother me, and the fenders work great. Just an aesthetics 
 thing.
  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/8049473099/in/photostream


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[RBW] Re: Mark's Hub Area Rack

2013-01-29 Thread grant
I don't have a HAR here now, but I'll be using it tomorrow on an s24o. Lots 
of comments and questions, all good ones that--I or we or Mark can answer 
tomorrow if I don't answer now. Some things;

1. Which dropout eyelet? As tapebubba says, the top one. 
2. Will it go on the bottom/rear one? In some cases yes, but probably not 
on a 700 fork, because it sits farther from the FRONT fork eyelet, and so 
it just won't reach (from the lower eyelet). As it is, it works on most of 
our recent frames (with 26-650-700) wheels with the guitar front dropout, 
or some of the really old ones with the two-eyes.
3. The HAR's two-point attachment as seen in the blug-or-email has been 
tested by Nitto, and passes. However, originally and still, the preferred 
and better arrangement is using this with a Nitto Mini-front rack, and 
joining Mark's HAR.
4. However howerver, we are investigating (means asking Nitto to make) a 
loopy-thing like normal low-riders mostly seem to have. We wanted to get 
around the loop, because loops look funny. Conceivably and if everything 
comes to pass, one could use both the hoopster and the rod-to-Mini rack, 
thereby totally ultra-bracing everything whilst creating a I made this 
rack myself, step by step look.
5. If it works on non-RIV bikes, it's a coincidence. Maybe with P-clamps. 
We aren't against racks-4-all bikes, but there are already lots of them, 
and we wanted to make it nearly perfect for most of our current bikes, 
because we doubt Tubus etc has plans to do that.

6. I'ma use it tomorrow on a campout, without connecting it to the 
Mini-front. 

7. Just so we can answer the question, we weighed it today. A pair, left 
and right, weigh a pound.

Get back used to pounds. In the upcoming catalogue we're heading on back to 
'em, because nobody actually knows what 1,039g means. Without translating 
to pounds, I mean (divide by 453.5). So we're listing pounds, not both, and 
if you want the grams--convert!

Allf or now--except thank you all for being enthused and complimentary. It 
is helpful and so appreciated. Any locals who want to see the rack can see 
it. We have them in stock, but are wating for data fron Nitto before 
actually receiving them. 



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Re: [RBW] Re: P45 Longboard question

2013-01-29 Thread Dan McNamara
The new 50 is the old 52 so it is 584  



On Jan 29, 2013, at 7:59 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Dan: is the Betty 559 or 584?
 
 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 8:49 PM, Dan McNamara djmcnam...@gmail.com wrote:
 Same look on my SO's Betty (50cm) with the longboards. Not as pronounced as 
 they are mounted with a Sheldon fender nut and under a Mark's rack. But 
 still. 
 
 Thinking about using a second stay to get the front to conform. Or perhaps 
 something off the rack. Too bad the rack does not have a fender mount built 
 in. 
 
 Dan
 
 Marin
 
 On Jan 29, 2013, at 5:21 PM, shawn shawn.adki...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Thanks Michael. That is how the front fender looked on my test fit on the 
 Betty and I also have the same problem on my regular SKS fenders on my 
 Atlantis. Maybe I am doing something wrong during the installation.  
 
 On Tuesday, January 29, 2013 8:08:26 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
 
 Yes, here is a pic.
 You can see how the rear fender is great, but the front isn't.
  
 You can also see it happening at the end of the riv video for the 
 longboard installation in the final seconds when it shows the finished 
 installation on their bike.
  
 Even with my fender backed way off (moreso than in my pic) and trying 
 many adjustments, it just wants to rise away. 
 Doesn't really bother me, and the fenders work great. Just an aesthetics 
 thing.
  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/8049473099/in/photostream
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