date:20130228

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 4:08:04 AM UTC-5, Earl Grey wrote:

 Get a Sam or Betty now before the price goes up (get the unpainted head 
 tube if still available in your size).


Gernot,

Unfortunately, the unpainted head-tube ones are now gone, and the price did 
go up as of the start of this month.   But otherwise, the rest is 
spot-on it's what you choose as priorities...



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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-28 Thread Ron Mc

I bought a steering damper on a VO order, and it does not fit in the space
available on my old bike with fenders.
If anyone wants it, new - package opened - $10 will get it there by
Priority Mail.
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/vo-wheel-stabilizer.html

(I ordered a Hebie from SJS, and am hoping it will be smaller)

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:58:14 AM UTC-6, Earl Grey wrote:

Agreed that 4 struts on a Mark's are key, which is why I am surprised that
apparently no-one has thought of mounting the second set of struts to the
inside of the hourglass brazeon on the fork (see related thread: 4 struts
on a Mark's). Chris Chen thought of mounting the rear set of struts to the
inside of the rack (
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/8506365178/in/photostream), but
that doesn't solve the issue of stacking two struts onto one bolt at the
fork, though it does provide some side-to-side triangulation.

I have ordered bent and straight stays from Riv for my wife's Mark's and
will report back on various mounting options of the second set of struts in
a month or so when they arrive in Thailand.

Regarding the problem of front wheel movement while parked with a front
load, I have just installed a steering damper on my Sam with a big Wald
basket on a Nitto Mini Front rack (as well as a stem-mounted child seat).
As you can see, with about 13lbs the movement is limited to about 45
degrees (this can be fine-tuned with an adjustment screw):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/

Steering is probably slowed a bit near the limit, but I think that
handling is actually improved with a heavy front load, while I don't notice
any difference during unloaded riding, though I haven't really tested that
yet. I like the steering damper so much that I think that Riv should start
providing a brazeon for it. Seems like the logical step after mid-fork rack
mounts and kickstand plates. I thought I was kidding on this last comment,
but apparently at least some Dutch bikes have such a brazeon:
http://overthebarsinmilwaukee.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/steering-damper.jpg

Gernot
Thailand

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:12:24 AM UTC+7, William wrote:

Edwin

Sounds like a good list. The key to using the Mark's Rack with a true
load is the second set of struts, as you can see in the staff bikes photos
(Keven's Appaloosa, Grant's Homer). It's much more loadable with the
second pair of struts.

On Monday, February 25, 2013 5:36:47 PM UTC-8, Edwin W wrote:

I am weighing (no pun intended!) a few of the helpful suggestions from
the group. I think I am considering:
CETMA strong and tough, ugly and expensive.
Blackburn cheap and tough, ugly and not made for this bike.
Marks elegant and made for the bike, expensive and wondering about
weight limit, but I see on the staff bikes they appear to hold more than
4.4 pounds. Someone from the list has told me they might have one of these.
Gamoj porter like on Sean's bike on the staff bikes page.

As to my original post: I almost always carry 5-10 pounds in my work bag
to and from work, and on rare occasion a 12 pack of beer and very rarely a
case or other such groceries, but would love to have the option. And have
it be better than the current situation with soma rack and p clamps.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Edwin

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-28 Thread Earl Grey

I have the Hebie. I am not using the plastic cover for the spring, and the
spring was dragging on the fender, scratching it (maybe that's why there is
a cover?) :). But rotating the L bracket at the fork crown so the spring
attaches above the brake bolt solved the problem. You can see the scratches
and the position of the bracket in this
photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/8513927014/in/photostream

Gernot

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 9:26:50 PM UTC+7, Ron Mc wrote:

I bought a steering damper on a VO order, and it does not fit in the space
available on my old bike with fenders.
If anyone wants it, new - package opened - $10 will get it there by
Priority Mail.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/vo-wheel-stabilizer.html

(I ordered a Hebie from SJS, and am hoping it will be smaller)

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:58:14 AM UTC-6, Earl Grey wrote:

Agreed that 4 struts on a Mark's are key, which is why I am surprised
that apparently no-one has thought of mounting the second set of struts to
the inside of the hourglass brazeon on the fork (see related thread: 4
struts on a Mark's). Chris Chen thought of mounting the rear set of struts
to the inside of the rack (
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/8506365178/in/photostream), but
that doesn't solve the issue of stacking two struts onto one bolt at the
fork, though it does provide some side-to-side triangulation.

I have ordered bent and straight stays from Riv for my wife's Mark's and
will report back on various mounting options of the second set of struts in
a month or so when they arrive in Thailand.

Gernot
Thailand

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:12:24 AM UTC+7, William wrote:

Edwin

On Monday, February 25, 2013 5:36:47 PM UTC-8, Edwin W wrote:

I am weighing (no pun intended!) a few of the helpful suggestions from
the group. I think I am considering:
CETMA strong and tough, ugly and expensive.
Blackburn cheap and tough, ugly and not made for this bike.
Marks elegant and made for the bike, expensive and wondering about
weight limit, but I see on the staff bikes they appear to hold more than
4.4 pounds. Someone from the list has told me they might have one of
these.
Gamoj porter like on Sean's bike on the staff bikes page.

As to my original post: I almost always carry 5-10 pounds in my work
bag to and from work, and on rare occasion a 12 pack of beer and very
rarely a case or other such groceries, but would love to have the option.
And have it be better than the current situation with soma rack and p
clamps.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Edwin

[RBW] Re: Saluki frameset for sale 650b

Have to admit, that makes me sad. I know you had wanted to keep it complete 
as it was a great build, but the complete build was more than I needed 
another bike...Have to admit, that's a cool color on the bike.   It was 
a tad small for me, but I still wanted it, especially after it was 
parted If it had been a 60 canti-luki, I don't know how I would 
have said no.

Again, I know you liked the bike, and probably hated to see it go   I 
almost feel like I need to pass along condolences





On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:44:18 PM UTC-5, hobie wrote:

 Frame was sold.
 On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 10:06:27 AM UTC-5, hobie wrote:

 Pea Sage Green 58cm 650b sidepull/centerpull Saluki 3 water bottle making 
 it a Waterford built frameset, correct me if I'm wrong on that one. I'm the 
 original owner and purchased it from The CountryBbike Shop in Ohio. 
 Wonderful riding bike! It does have a number of paint chips, scratches from 
 usage. It also has a ding/dent around 4-5mm long on the top tube. I rode 
 it like this for around a year. It has been framed saved from the getgo a 
 few times and the chips covered w. clear nail polish. Alot of the 
 scratches/chips will be hidden once the bike is a assembled. Frame and 
 fork. Email me off list for pictures.  Asking $775.00 plus actual shipping.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

2013-02-28 Thread Bruce Herbitter

Love this. Reminds me of RBW's old advertising for Rambouillet. It's
affordable for a cyclist with a job and bicycle priorities

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 3:08 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

 but most employed folk in the US can afford a Sam, especially if it
 can replace car trips some of the time. It's mostly a matter of
 priorities,...



When I was hemming and hawing over buying a Ram back in '07, a frame set
was $1,300, and a complete bike was about $2,300.  10,000 miles on that
bike later, I'm glad I pulled the trigger. To get RBW to make me one today
(and I assume you could order one as a custom) would be over double the
cost.

Bruce

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Re: [RBW] tanaka fenders

2013-02-28 Thread Zoraster

I was looking at the Brass version they carry. At the price it's worth a try. 

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[RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-28 Thread Karl Fundenberger

It has been suggested to me to stear clear of the Steco racks, so I will
pass that on. Wouldn't want to crush a headtube.

If you want the best rack for the heaviest of front loads on a non-cargo
bike, you need the WorkCycles frame-fixed 'pickup' front rack. I have one,
and it is fantastic. It is rated to 25kg. I have carried at least 60 pounds
with it. The fact that it's frame-fixed means the load is much more
balanced than a typical fork-fixed front rack. The rack, sans hardware, is
also removable.
http://www.workcycles.com/home-products/parts-accessories-books/pickup-frame-mounted-front-carrier

I got mine from Adeline Adeline in NYC. It's not listed on their site, but
you can call them. It was something like $130 shipped. Not the cheapest,
but probably the sturdiest front cargo option short of a cycletruck or
bakfiets.
http://www.adelineadeline.com/

I would be hesitant to install it on something as lovely as a Sam. You may
run into interference with the downtube cable bosses. On my Trek, they were
not essential, and were removed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fundenphoto/7578646820/

Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

2013-02-28 Thread David Hays

Patrick:
You say 'My other Rivs feel ideal to me.' separating out the Sam. Where does 
the Homer fall in your evaluation?
I'm seriously looking at making the plunge on a 650B Homer as an all around 
and don't foresee loaded touring.
Thanks.
David

 
On Feb 27, 2013, at 11:47 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

 Interesting; thanks. I've owned at least one bike (12-speed-era Fuji Royale) 
 that handled better with a heavy rear load than unladen. Of course, there are 
 so many variables here that classification is difficult if not impossible, 
 but I find such experiences as yours interesting.
 
 The Fargo definitely feels sluggish in acceleration compared to other bikes 
 I've ridden, this even with Kojaks which are decent tires. OTOH, so did the 
 Sam Hill, though overall the SH handled better than the Fargo. My other Rivs 
 feel ideal to me. Ram build to be completed late this week, God willing, so 
 we will see about that one.
 
 On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 9:39 AM, thalasin thala...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I really wish I could have a long-term, head-to-head ride comparison of both 
 bikes.  And maybe I had unrealistic expectations of a touring bike, and maybe 
 the fit on the LHT just wasn't right for me.  But I gave it a go for 3 years 
 and am giving up the ghost.  I have a Rambouillet, and the ride on that bike 
 is wonderful--so based on that experience and what I've read from others 
 here, I'm assuming I could expect the same out of an Atlantis.  I came to 
 hate the LHT and it was absolutely no fun to ride.  It was sluggish and every 
 ride felt like a slog.  I've never actually toured on it, and others have 
 told me that's where the bike really shines.  In my mind, though, if I'm slow 
 and hating it unloaded, I can't imagine putting 40 lbs. of stuff on it and it 
 being any more enjoyable.  So, like I said, it's probably a combination of 
 factors and quite possibly ignorance on my part, but I'm looking for other 
 options.
  
 
 On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:24:20 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
 Tracy -- asking to add more data to my store: what exactly do you find absent 
 in the ride of the LHT that you find in Rivendells' ride (= comfort?) and 
 handling?
 
 I'd love to have a Riv ride mated to my Fargo, whose handling is mediocre, 
 but I put up with the Fargo for its other virtues. (Note one exception: I 
 find that the Fargo does handle heavy rear loads better than the Sam Hill.)
 
 On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 9:19 AM, thalasin thal...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I'd be all in for a budget version of the Atlantis, as that's the bike I've 
 always wanted but just can't afford.  I tried to make do with a LHT, but I 
 never liked the bike and am getting rid of it.  It's the Rivendell ride I'm 
 in search of, so if it actually comes to fruition, I'm in without hesitation.
 
 Tracy 
 
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 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-28 Thread Brad Mitchell

I'll step up and throw my weight behind the Gamoh portuer rack. I've had it
on my daily commuter for a few months and I really like it. i had a custom
porteur bag made for it as well, and it's massive. I've had some issues w/
the legs matching up with multiple bikes and forks..and I'm about to switch
it to another bike, but I might just bend the legs or buy some Nitto rack
arms from Riv soon and customize the attachment points. The rack itself
though is nice and not too expensive..

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 8:26:50 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:

I bought a steering damper on a VO order, and it does not fit in the space
available on my old bike with fenders.
If anyone wants it, new - package opened - $10 will get it there by
Priority Mail.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/vo-wheel-stabilizer.html

(I ordered a Hebie from SJS, and am hoping it will be smaller)

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:58:14 AM UTC-6, Earl Grey wrote:

Agreed that 4 struts on a Mark's are key, which is why I am surprised
that apparently no-one has thought of mounting the second set of struts to
the inside of the hourglass brazeon on the fork (see related thread: 4
struts on a Mark's). Chris Chen thought of mounting the rear set of struts
to the inside of the rack (
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/8506365178/in/photostream), but
that doesn't solve the issue of stacking two struts onto one bolt at the
fork, though it does provide some side-to-side triangulation.

I have ordered bent and straight stays from Riv for my wife's Mark's and
will report back on various mounting options of the second set of struts in
a month or so when they arrive in Thailand.

Gernot
Thailand

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:12:24 AM UTC+7, William wrote:

Edwin

On Monday, February 25, 2013 5:36:47 PM UTC-8, Edwin W wrote:

I am weighing (no pun intended!) a few of the helpful suggestions from
the group. I think I am considering:
CETMA strong and tough, ugly and expensive.
Blackburn cheap and tough, ugly and not made for this bike.
Marks elegant and made for the bike, expensive and wondering about
weight limit, but I see on the staff bikes they appear to hold more than
4.4 pounds. Someone from the list has told me they might have one of
these.
Gamoj porter like on Sean's bike on the staff bikes page.

As to my original post: I almost always carry 5-10 pounds in my work
bag to and from work, and on rare occasion a 12 pack of beer and very
rarely a case or other such groceries, but would love to have the option.
And have it be better than the current situation with soma rack and p
clamps.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Edwin

[RBW] Trade: my two stems (incl. Nitto Pearl) for your short-ext. Technomic (or similar)?

2013-02-28 Thread Karl Fundenberger

I have a 9 cm Origin8/Kalloy and a 12 cm Nitto Pearl 11, each with 25.4mm 
clamp diameters. I'd trade them both for a tall stem with short reach. I'd 
love a Technomic Standard in the sub-10cm-extension range, but would also 
consider a Deluxe, Tallux, Dirt Drop, Periscopa, or similar. Not looking 
for beauties, but I'm doing a complete rebuild, and I think a Nitto 
something-or-other would be more appropriate than the Origin8. The bars are 
25.4, so I could do either clamp diameter.

Here are mine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fundenphoto/8513860255/

Also looking for a new set of bar-end shifter pods, or a set of Silvers in 
nice shape.

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[RBW] Re: Ride Review: The Appaloosa

2013-02-28 Thread BenG

Was reading RR27 this morning - my favorite touring tale, Luka the 
Wire-Haired Fox Terrier - and noticed the Vision Thoroughbred in the 
adjacent article.  There are similarities to the Appaloosa.  The author 
really liked that bike, and ended the story with a foreshadowing of things 
to come...

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 4:50:12 PM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 WOW, with that configuration you should call it your Appa-palooza... 
 Cantis and 26 in fatties... NICE!!!

 On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 6:51:52 PM UTC-5, Liesl wrote:

 This bike is •the bomb*.  I think there's the impression out in the cloud 
 that suggests it's a cruiser built for flat-lands.  I don't think this idea 
 holds much water to anyone who saw Keven drop like a falcon on a vole 
 during his Appaloosa-descent down Shell Ridge this past Sunday.  With those 
 l-o-n-g chainstays and diagatubes, the bike held a line over rough terrain 
 that was elegant and true—and fast.  This is not to mention all the other 
 parts of the uphill-and-down single-track trail riding that the Appaloosa 
 handled like, well, like its namesake.

 At 5'2,I never thought this design could be made small enough for me—but 
 there it was, a little Appaloosa that I could stand over.  I took it for a 
 ride, and then rode it again, and then rode it some more…I took it for 
 spins 4 days in a row and just fell in love.  The Bosco's are crazy comfy 
 and a million hand positions, goofy as they look.  Upright, relaxed with 
 elbows on the grips, crouched down with hands on the flats—whatever you 
 need.  

 This bike is really a bit of a revolution.

 Mine will be maybe the 7th (?) in the world and will be the only one with 
 canti's, 26 wheels, and clearance for 55cm fatty tires and fenders.  It'll 
 be a Riv Chica War Horse! 

 SO that's the news on the custom front.

 RCW



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Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

2013-02-28 Thread redsydude

 

I think Rivendell has been pretty clever to make sure that $1K frames are 
not an uncompromised substitute for $2K frames.   Had the San Marcos been 
designed for long reach side pull tire clearance and the Sam Hillborne been 
designed with road bike angles, they would likely have sold more of them to 
people who ultimately bought the Hilsen.  These kinds of nuances may be 
less available at the touring bike end of the spectrum. 

On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 5:54:38 PM UTC-8, Peter M wrote:

 So a budget hunqapillar, which was the budget bombadil? Even with no 
 diagatube and one color powder coat I doubt you could get the price point 
 below 1k and still have it make sense. I think there would be a market 
 there but it would have to eat into existing hunqapillar sales instead of 
 bringing in new customers and money. 
 On Feb 26, 2013 8:34 PM, cyclotourist cyclot...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Yes!!! But w/ clearance for +50mm tires like Mike mentioned. Could be the 
 perfect bike! 


 On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 9:58 AM, William tape...@gmail.com javascript:
  wrote:

 A San Marcos grade Atlantis.

 So you just want the single TT, single color, canti-Hillborne back?  


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[RBW] FS: Bosco Bullmoose bars with Miesha's Portuguese Tree Cork Grips

2013-02-28 Thread Brad Mitchell

Doing some major moving around of parts and doing a new commuter build for 
baby-hauling this summer when the little one goes to day care, so I'm 
switching my '83 Miyata from commuter-mode back to poor-man's-Hunqa-mode.. 
I've been running these Bosco Bullmoose bars on it since last fall. They 
are amazing, but I'm switching back to the original Bullmoose bars that 
came on the bike and don't need such an upright position, so these are 
surplus to my needs right now. I'm sure someone on the list would love to 
use them.

They have the Miesha Portuguese bar-end version of the cork grips on them 
(not shellaced). They are glued on, and I'd rather not be the one to 
scratch up the bars trying to remove them :) So I will leave them on as-is; 
the bars are perfect for bar-end shifters and I assumed many people would 
run them this way anyways. 

No scratches or anything on the bars, they are in superb condition. I've 
had a bell and cycling computer mounted on them the entire time, so there 
might be a slight smudge or two at the attachment points..otherwise they 
are in great condition.

I'd like $140 for the bars + grips which would also include shipping to the 
lower 48. Also if these sell fast, I won't be able to ship out until 
middle-late next week as I'll be out of town for a few days. Best to email 
me off-list if possible. Thanks all.

Brad

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Re: [RBW] Re: Speaking of merit badges...Association of Caffeinated Wheelmen

2013-02-28 Thread David Strong

Jinxed, Just saw this video about Google Forms. I haven't dived into it
yet, but the video on this link seems to suggest that it could be a simple
way for you to get orders gathered up, or at least get an idea of who wants
pins/patches, and how many... Not sure this is a perfect solution, but
seems pretty organized. Hope it helps

David
j.david.str...@gmail.com

On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 7:16 PM, jinxed hbcl...@yahoo.com wrote:

 David,


 Hey there!! Yea...I am the ground zero on the ACW. I might have a pin or
 two stashed away, but I'll have to look.


 I have already consulted an embroidery company on doing patches after a
 lengthy and fun chat with Harry Hugel at Rivendell. Jeeze, that was a year
 ago I think!! Man time just keeps rolling on. I used to be a commercial
 embroiderer by trade so a patch was always on the burner. The pins were
 unexpectedly CRAZY popular when I did them and I didnt anticipate the
 shipping charges well nor a very streamlined ordering process


 SO that said...I'd be happy to do another lapel pin run, and or patch run,
 IF I could come up with some officially non-official AND simple way to take
 orders. Do any of you know an easy way to do this? The last time I took
 email orders and it was crazy to keep track of as many people use different
 emails for contact and paypal, not to mention screen names.


 The solid brass cloisonné pins would need to bump from $6 to $8 if the
 pricing is the same. They were spendy, and shipping was more than I
 estimated. I just need to break even...these were for fun, not money. Patch
 pricing TBD but is usually based on stitch count which is connected to
 size. Which brings up a question...what size patch?? Based on the design
 and my experience, minimum would need to be 3 - 3.25 diameter. Too small?
 Too big?




 On Thursday, February 14, 2013 7:15:16 AM UTC-7, David Strong wrote:

 Just stumbled upon the ACW pins and I fell in love. What are the chances
 these could be re-upped. Pins or, even better, patches. I would really be
 happy to get one of these. Is anybody here the original producer of these
 goodies?? Let me know. Cheers, David S

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[RBW] Re: Recently joined the group; and now a new Riv [frame] owner

2013-02-28 Thread BenG

Hi Tom!  Similar story here - I bought the last green 60cm Hillborne 
sale frame, which was a shop return. With custom paint it'll be only a bit 
over $100 from new frame price - Yay!  I'm at the low end of 60's pbh 
range, figuring to use bosco bars and enjoy the extra retreat.  I have an 
Albatross bar with Silver bar-ends and mtb brake levers on a Specialized 
commuter, and it has served me Very Well.  That machine, stock, had a flat 
bar road bike cockpit (grin), but the pursuit of comfort brought a 
low-rise mtb bar, a moustache bar on a steer tube extender, and finally the 
Albatross, where comfort lives.  Good chance you'll like it, too.
It would be fun to swap pics with you down the road.  What say?
Ben Guthrie

On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:15:55 PM UTC-5, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 Just over an hour ago, I snagged the last Sam Hillborne frame from Riv at 
 the sale price; I'm going to wait on the build a bit and think over drops, 
 moustaches, or albies, but am leaning towards the albatross bars as 
 something new for me.  But really, I can't wait to try the new ride.  Much 
 appreciation to this welcoming group. Any Riv riders in South Florida?  

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[RBW] Re: WTB: matching trunksacks (was: New look on Quickbeam)

2013-02-28 Thread Ron Mc

how about grid gray sackville?  If you check my profile, I just have a few 
miles on a set (mostly the front), and have made a set of thin, removable 
closed-cell foam liners for them.  

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 11:47:20 AM UTC-6, Geoffrey Klingsporn 
wrote:

 I like the look of Bob's new setup so much that I'd like to try it myself 
 on my old Orange QB. Before I drop the extra (hah!) cash, I always find it 
 worthwhile to ask what might be lurking in the group's collective parts 
 collection.

 If anyone has a matching set of front and back (small and large) 
 trunksacks for sale, please contact me offlist. Tweed is great but not 
 obligatory.

 Thanks!
 Geoff
 (Denver)

 On Fri, Feb 22, 2013 at 3:05 PM, Robert F. Harrison 
 rfhar...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 It's been raining hard today here in Honolulu with flash flood warnings 
 and everything. Of course I was out in it on my Hunqapillar getting soaked 
 as met up with a friend for breakfast. Coming home wet as a drowned rat I 
 was pleased to see a shipment from RBW. I completely forgot about the 
 weather. :-)

 I've been continuing to play around with my Quickbeam now that the 
 Hunqapillar has become the bike I used for carrying stuff around. Because 
 of all the rain we've been having I decided to switch to Gripsters and away 
 from Grip Kings (love both, keeping the GKs for other uses).

 I also decided that since I have an Acorn saddlebag and a handlebar bag 
 they should both go on the same bike. I've also always like trunk bags but 
 since I've got a basket on the Hunq (moved from the QB) it can't take one 
 right now. But...I was pretty sure my QB would look great with a matched 
 set of Sackville TrunkSacks so with a little extra cash (is there ever such 
 a thing as 'extra cash?') I picked up new pedals and matching TrunkSacks. 
 I'd thought about the Nigel Smythes but as I have a Sackville huge saddle 
 bag...well bag matching may not be my thing all the time but...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/8499061402/

 It's not a great picture and I'm not taking the bike out as I'm off to 
 Maui with my Bike Friday in about 2 hours - I'll be riding down Haleakala 
 on Sunday. It's also raining hard and until I put a little Obenauf's on the 
 leather I'm going to keep the Sackville's out of the rain.

 Anyway it's the look I was going for so...happy trails all!

 BTW - for those who might have wondered how the voting is going on which 
 bike I should ride April's Haleiwa Metric Century (
 http://statrix.com/whichbike.htm), right now it's the Quickbeam:

 Bike Friday: 10
 Quickbeam: 15
 Hunqapillar: 12

 Aloha all!

 Bob




 -- 
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 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com javascript:
 statrix.com
  
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[RBW] rack capacities

2013-02-28 Thread grant

Mark's rack is 4.4 pounds.
Nitto Mini, 13.

The big rears, 44.

Nitto is conservative, but try to heed these. The racks are well made of 
good materials, but are not unbreakable...even tho they're CrMo and Nitto 
and sold by us. Doo be careful, and if you put a basket on a Mark's 
rack and use it for milk--I mean, if you cannot be talked out of that, then 
lift the load off the rack with straps to the handlebars front and rear, 
making sure the load is lower than the bar, so that cinching the strap 
doesn't impose a downward force on the load and multimply the stress on the 
rack. 
Check bolt tightness.
The specs come with racks now, and are on the sight.

Be careful, safe, and aware.

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[RBW] Re: Recently joined the group; and now a new Riv [frame] owner

2013-02-28 Thread Tom Goodmann

Absolutely I'm up for the swap, Ben.  I've had what I now know is typically 
great and patient help from the RivFolk, and for this first bike, I 
sheepishly confess, I may just go with a build kit, as I feel pretty far 
away from knowing both the current component market and more specifically 
what works best on a Sam, whereas RivFolk have sorted through the 
questions.  As others have suggested, this need not be a one-time or short 
term project, and I am already thinking to use cable splitters to build a 
second cockpit with drops, and go with the upright Alb buiid kit for now. I 
used to know a little bit about bikes, but let all of it, and frequent 
riding, get away from me (as in, where is that BB puller living 
nowadays?) 

I feel lucky to get the frame at the sale price, and have been told that 
for my build (5'11, 87 PBH) the 56 Sam is even better than the forthcoming 
58, new for this year.  (By what means, Ben, are you adding the custom 
paint--optioned via Riv?)  For the moment, they are holding the frame as I 
decide on the build.

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 8:03:28 PM UTC-5, BenG wrote:

 Hi Tom!  Similar story here - I bought the last green 60cm Hillborne 
 sale frame, which was a shop return. With custom paint it'll be only a bit 
 over $100 from new frame price - Yay!  I'm at the low end of 60's pbh 
 range, figuring to use bosco bars and enjoy the extra retreat.  I have an 
 Albatross bar with Silver bar-ends and mtb brake levers on a Specialized 
 commuter, and it has served me Very Well.  That machine, stock, had a flat 
 bar road bike cockpit (grin), but the pursuit of comfort brought a 
 low-rise mtb bar, a moustache bar on a steer tube extender, and finally the 
 Albatross, where comfort lives.  Good chance you'll like it, too.
 It would be fun to swap pics with you down the road.  What say?
 Ben Guthrie

 On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:15:55 PM UTC-5, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 Just over an hour ago, I snagged the last Sam Hillborne frame from Riv at 
 the sale price; I'm going to wait on the build a bit and think over drops, 
 moustaches, or albies, but am leaning towards the albatross bars as 
 something new for me.  But really, I can't wait to try the new ride.  Much 
 appreciation to this welcoming group. Any Riv riders in South Florida?  



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[RBW] Re: Recently joined the group; and now a new Riv [frame] owner

2013-02-28 Thread Tom Goodmann

Frank, 

I'd be a pleasure to look over your garage o' Rivendells; I'm on the 
learning curve here . . . I see already that folks find it hard to have 
just one. This whole thing started as a way to a) correct old errors in 
buying the wrong size bike; b) pare down from three bikes to one: uh, yeah. 
*That's* not going to happen.

Tom

tgoodmann at gmail dot com

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 10:35:33 PM UTC-5, frank_a wrote:


 Hello Tom, 
 Welcome to the group. I'm in the Ft. Lauderdale area. I've got a 
 garage full of Rivendells. Feel free to contact me if you want to try 
 something out. 
 - Frank 
 On Feb 26, 9:15 pm, Tom Goodmann tgoodm...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Just over an hour ago, I snagged the last Sam Hillborne frame from Riv 
 at 
  the sale price; I'm going to wait on the build a bit and think over 
 drops, 
  moustaches, or albies, but am leaning towards the albatross bars as 
  something new for me.  But really, I can't wait to try the new ride. 
  Much 
  appreciation to this welcoming group. Any Riv riders in South Florida? 


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[RBW] Re: Recently joined the group; and now a new Riv [frame] owner

Hey Tom,

I worked closely with Grant et al at Riv on my Hunqa build and am delighted 
I did. To see the craftmanship Mark puts into every build is beautiful, and 
I would not have gotten it had I had someone local build it up.

I continue to be amazed at the fluidity with which my bike goes from 
pavement to dirt road to trail, handling each as though it were made for it 
(which it is!). I've never had a bike this happy to go anywhere, do 
anything, loaded or not with me comfortable the whole way. Sheer delight! 
Have fun, whatever you choose. You really can't go wrong working with the 
Rivfolk.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 9:52:44 AM UTC-7, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 Absolutely I'm up for the swap, Ben.  I've had what I now know is 
 typically great and patient help from the RivFolk, and for this first bike, 
 I sheepishly confess, I may just go with a build kit, as I feel pretty far 
 away from knowing both the current component market and more specifically 
 what works best on a Sam, whereas RivFolk have sorted through the 
 questions.  As others have suggested, this need not be a one-time or short 
 term project, and I am already thinking to use cable splitters to build a 
 second cockpit with drops, and go with the upright Alb buiid kit for now. I 
 used to know a little bit about bikes, but let all of it, and frequent 
 riding, get away from me (as in, where is that BB puller living 
 nowadays?) 

 I feel lucky to get the frame at the sale price, and have been told that 
 for my build (5'11, 87 PBH) the 56 Sam is even better than the forthcoming 
 58, new for this year.  (By what means, Ben, are you adding the custom 
 paint--optioned via Riv?)  For the moment, they are holding the frame as I 
 decide on the build.

 On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 8:03:28 PM UTC-5, BenG wrote:

 Hi Tom!  Similar story here - I bought the last green 60cm Hillborne 
 sale frame, which was a shop return. With custom paint it'll be only a bit 
 over $100 from new frame price - Yay!  I'm at the low end of 60's pbh 
 range, figuring to use bosco bars and enjoy the extra retreat.  I have an 
 Albatross bar with Silver bar-ends and mtb brake levers on a Specialized 
 commuter, and it has served me Very Well.  That machine, stock, had a flat 
 bar road bike cockpit (grin), but the pursuit of comfort brought a 
 low-rise mtb bar, a moustache bar on a steer tube extender, and finally the 
 Albatross, where comfort lives.  Good chance you'll like it, too.
 It would be fun to swap pics with you down the road.  What say?
 Ben Guthrie

 On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:15:55 PM UTC-5, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 Just over an hour ago, I snagged the last Sam Hillborne frame from Riv 
 at the sale price; I'm going to wait on the build a bit and think over 
 drops, moustaches, or albies, but am leaning towards the albatross bars as 
 something new for me.  But really, I can't wait to try the new ride.  Much 
 appreciation to this welcoming group. Any Riv riders in South Florida?  



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[RBW] Re: Expressing gratitude for efficiency in shipping packaging

2013-02-28 Thread Liesl

During my 4-day visit to Riv, I had ample opportunity to talk with Jenny 
and on the last day, finally was allowed to enter the inner sanctum, or the 
Secret Chamber o' Packing, where Jenny and the illusive Robert do their 
artistic cardboard packing magic.  I can only reiterate what William shared 
above.  They are professionals—plus they have a groovy calm going on in the 
Secret Chamber o' Packing, which is probably why they keep it secret!

My memory is the worst kind of order to pack included a) a poster and 
Bullmoose bars, or b) a poster and non-folding tires. Or maybe it was any 
orders with these items in combination with these makes for true 
problem-solving.   Anyway, if you order these combo's, better put in a 
bonus thank-you note/apology to Jenny  Robert.

Oh, and Jenny's Official RCW title is RCDoubleDub (a.k.a Riv Chica Warrior 
West)

RCWMD

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[RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

2013-02-28 Thread Dan McNamara

I just swapped the tires on my 52 Bombadil 2TT from Fatty Rumpkins to the
54 (actually measure 48) Conti Tour Guards and, of course, the Pletscher
2-legged kickstand won't clear the rear tire. By not clear I mean the stand
rubs against the tire when it is in the up position.

Any thoughts on other 2-legged stands that might clear a wide-ish tire? I
would prefer that the stand raised the rear of the bike rather than the
front to avoid the front wheel flopping around when I am loading.

So far there are two options from VO, a couple from Hebie and at least one
from Crow. Any user feedback on these and ideas on others?

Thanks in advance

Dan

-Marin

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[RBW] Front fender mount on Blue Sams - how to?

Does a fender mount on the brake bolt, or does the fork have one of those 
thingamajjiggies for direct bolting fenders to the fork crown?
Sorry for the lack of technical jargon. I forget what that mounting hole is 
called under the fork.
 
Thanks for the info.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Saluki frameset for sale 650b

2013-02-28 Thread jimmy johnsen

 Thanks Leslie. 
 
I did like the bike. Can't say I'll mis it though. There are to many other 
great rides to try out. I can always buy another Riv. I wish they wern't so 
expensive especially the customs. At 51 years young I'm going back to my first 
love. Fixed gear road and singlespeed mountain biking, Salsa Selma Ti SS!!! I 
love the Quickbeam but could never seem to find a 58 silver one used. I decided 
to get a Custom Gunnar/crosshairs 58cm w. horizontal dropouts. Less money and 
still the same quality as a Riv. It's alot quicker then the Saluk. Maybe not as 
comfy. I'm trying to cut down on the amount of time I spend on the bike. R/T's 
to Brooklyn would take to long. Although I'll be limited to what terrain I can 
do with a fix I'll get a quicker workout and can spend more time w. wife and 8 
year old daughter. Waterford was a great company to deal with as is Riv. There 
is only one bike I regret selling and that was a Yamaguchi track bike I had. I 
do like going fast!
 
Hobie
 


 From: Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:26 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Saluki frameset for sale 650b
  

Have to admit, that makes me sad. I know you had wanted to keep it complete as 
it was a great build, but the complete build was more than I needed another 
bike...    Have to admit, that's a cool color on the bike.   It was a tad small 
for me, but I still wanted it, especially after it was parted     If it had 
been a 60 canti-luki, I don't know how I would have said no.    

Again, I know you liked the bike, and probably hated to see it go   I 
almost feel like I need to pass along condolences





On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:44:18 PM UTC-5, hobie wrote:
Frame was sold.
On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 10:06:27 AM UTC-5, hobie wrote:
Pea Sage Green 58cm 650b sidepull/centerpull Saluki 3 water bottle making it a 
Waterford built frameset, correct me if I'm wrong on that one. I'm the 
original owner and purchased it from The CountryBbike Shop in Ohio. Wonderful 
riding bike! It does have a number of paint chips, scratches from usage. It 
also has a ding/dent around 4-5mm long on the top tube. I rode it like this 
for around a year. It has been framed saved from the getgo a few times and the 
chips covered w. clear nail polish. Alot of the scratches/chips will be hidden 
once the bike is a assembled. Frame and fork. Email me off list for pictures.  
Asking $775.00 plus actual shipping.
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[RBW] Re: FS - 1 pr nearly new Big Apple 700c / 29er (60-622) tires, $40 + shipping - NOT SOLD; available again!

2013-02-28 Thread Andrew Letton

Well, the guy who originally said he'd buy them didn't read the listing 
carefully enough, and thought they were a different size.  Just to be 
totally, redundantly, repetitively clear, these are 700c = 29er sized!  
Anyone interested at $40 plus actual shipping (or pick-up)? (I live in the 
Santa Cruz Mountains and I'll be in the Berkeley  Walnut Creek (RBWWHQ) 
areas Saturday, March 2nd (only).) cheers, Andrew

--

On Tuesday, February 19, 2013 11:41:30 PM UTC-8, Andrew Letton wrote:

 All this talk of Big Apples reminds me that I have a pair of 60mm, 700c 
 Big Apples that I'd like to sell for $65 shipped in the continental US. (Or 
 $55 picked-up in the San Jose/Santa Cruz, CA area.)
 I had them on my 60cm Bombadil, (with 60mm Berthoud fenders) and they fit 
 fine, but I realize I want/need knobbies on that bike.  I rode them for no 
 more than 50 miles. No cuts, no flats. The mold flash is still on the tread.
 Photos here:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/letton/sets/72157632811385708/
 cheers,
 Andrew


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RE: [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

2013-02-28 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J

I have this one on my Atlantis with the 50mm Marathon Supremes, and it clears 
those pretty fat tires just fine. 
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands/vo-retractable-dual-leg-kickstand.html
   I like the ability to adjust the length of the kickstand legs when you 
change tires, too.  Works very well.  Whether the rear or front is lifted with 
the stand down depends on where the load is, though; I try to adjust the length 
of the legs so that both tires are as close to the ground as possible.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan McNamara
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:28 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

I just swapped the tires on my 52 Bombadil 2TT from Fatty Rumpkins to the 54 
(actually measure 48) Conti Tour Guards and, of course, the Pletscher 2-legged 
kickstand won't clear the rear tire. By not clear I mean the stand rubs against 
the tire when it is in the up position.
Any thoughts on other 2-legged stands that might clear a wide-ish tire? I would 
prefer that the stand raised the rear of the bike rather than the front to 
avoid the front wheel flopping around when I am loading.
So far there are two options from VO, a couple from Hebie and at least one from 
Crow. Any user feedback on these and ideas on others?
Thanks in advance
Dan
-Marin
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Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

2013-02-28 Thread PATRICK MOORE

Sorry, I have no experience with the Homer. FWIW, all the excellent Rivs
I've owned have been built strictly as dedicated road bikes.

On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 10:01 AM, David Hays 23writ...@gmail.com wrote:

 Patrick:
 You say 'My other Rivs feel ideal to me.' separating out the Sam. Where
 does the Homer fall in your evaluation?
 I'm seriously looking at making the plunge on a 650B Homer as an all
 around and don't foresee loaded touring.
 Thanks.
 David


 On Feb 27, 2013, at 11:47 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

 Interesting; thanks. I've owned at least one bike (12-speed-era Fuji
 Royale) that handled better with a heavy rear load than unladen. Of course,
 there are so many variables here that classification is difficult if not
 impossible, but I find such experiences as yours interesting.

 The Fargo definitely feels sluggish in acceleration compared to other
 bikes I've ridden, this even with Kojaks which are decent tires. OTOH, so
 did the Sam Hill, though overall the SH handled better than the Fargo. My
 other Rivs feel ideal to me. Ram build to be completed late this week, God
 willing, so we will see about that one.

 On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 9:39 AM, thalasin thala...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I really wish I could have a long-term, head-to-head ride comparison of
 both bikes.  And maybe I had unrealistic expectations of a touring bike,
 and maybe the fit on the LHT just wasn't right for me.  But I gave it a go
 for 3 years and am giving up the ghost.  I have a Rambouillet, and the ride
 on that bike is wonderful--so based on that experience and what I've read
 from others here, I'm assuming I could expect the same out of an Atlantis.
 I came to hate the LHT and it was absolutely no fun to ride.  It was
 sluggish and every ride felt like a slog.  I've never actually toured on
 it, and others have told me that's where the bike really shines.  In my
 mind, though, if I'm slow and hating it unloaded, I can't imagine putting
 40 lbs. of stuff on it and it being any more enjoyable.  So, like I said,
 it's probably a combination of factors and quite possibly ignorance on my
 part, but I'm looking for other options.


 On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:24:20 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Tracy -- asking to add more data to my store: what exactly do you find
 absent in the ride of the LHT that you find in Rivendells' ride (=
 comfort?) and handling?

 I'd love to have a Riv ride mated to my Fargo, whose handling is
 mediocre, but I put up with the Fargo for its other virtues. (Note one
 exception: I find that the Fargo does handle heavy rear loads better than
 the Sam Hill.)

 On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 9:19 AM, thalasin thal...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I'd be all in for a budget version of the Atlantis, as that's the bike
 I've always wanted but just can't afford.  I tried to make do with a LHT,
 but I never liked the bike and am getting rid of it.  It's the Rivendell
 ride I'm in search of, so if it actually comes to fruition, I'm in without
 hesitation.
 Tracy


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Re: [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

2013-02-28 Thread Shoji Takahashi

I have the VO Copenhagen Dual Leg Kickstand, too. I think the length
adjustment is nice. I'm not as enthusiastic with the build compared to the
Pletscher. In the up position, the upper leg wobbles a bit. Not anything
bad or dangerous, but I don't see the same thing on my Pletscher.

The plastic feet are wide. Good for stability, but it could cause a problem
in the up position. I tried it on a ss bike: too much one way, and the feet
were into the spokes; too much the other way and they were into the
pedal/foot.

For wheel flop, I take my ankle band and wrap it around the tire and
downtube. I used to have an extra bungie cord on my basket, but that
disappeared.

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:55:22 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:

I have this one on my Atlantis with the 50mm Marathon Supremes, and it
clears those pretty fat tires just fine.
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands/vo-retractable-dual-leg-kickstand.html
I like the ability to adjust the length of the kickstand legs when you
change tires, too. Works very well. Whether the rear or front is lifted
with the stand down depends on where the load is, though; I try to adjust
the length of the legs so that both tires are as close to the ground as
possible.

*From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto:
rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *Dan McNamara
*Sent:* Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:28 PM
*To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:
*Subject:* [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

I just swapped the tires on my 52 Bombadil 2TT from Fatty Rumpkins to the
54 (actually measure 48) Conti Tour Guards and, of course, the Pletscher
2-legged kickstand won't clear the rear tire. By not clear I mean the stand
rubs against the tire when it is in the up position.

Any thoughts on other 2-legged stands that might clear a wide-ish tire? I
would prefer that the stand raised the rear of the bike rather than the
front to avoid the front wheel flopping around when I am loading.

So far there are two options from VO, a couple from Hebie and at least one
from Crow. Any user feedback on these and ideas on others?

Thanks in advance

Dan

-Marin

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contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and
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[RBW] Re: Recently joined the group; and now a new Riv [frame] owner

Hey Tom,

Sorry, I wan't clear. I'm saying the Sam is also a go anywhere do almost 
anything bike, though obviously not as loaded as the Hunqa. And the Riv 
folks will help you build it up beautifully.

I imagine if I was into club rides or cared about speed on solo road rides, 
I'd love to have a Rodeo, but I am so delighted to ride and have the 
freedom to turn off and explore any road or trail I happen upon, that I am 
thrilled to be a one bike guy. You will love your Sam!

With abandon began decades ago as my response to the folks and others 
bidding me to drive safely. Nah! I'll drive with abandon! Which isn't 
tossing safety to the wind, but rather entering into life with free, wild 
abandon and enjoying the journey. Of course it takes a certain amount of 
abandon to have vertigo, run mountain trails and ride a bike barefoot. 
Grin. May you ride your new Sam with wild abandon!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 12:34:48 PM UTC-7, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 Patrick,

 I'm just reading all about the Hunqa  on the Riv site . . . you know how 
 it is when you enter new water: toes first, and next time, you dive in! So, 
 a Sam H for now, which will be a better, and better-fitting bike than I 
 have ever owned, and who knows what will come next? It's great to read of 
 your recovered mobility via this great bike, and I also like your 
 signature: with abandon.  Getting back into biking has meant I've barely 
 driven the car in weeks, and even the motorcycle stands still.

 Tom

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 12:00:05 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Hey Tom,

 I worked closely with Grant et al at Riv on my Hunqa build and am 
 delighted I did. To see the craftmanship Mark puts into every build is 
 beautiful, and I would not have gotten it had I had someone local build it 
 up.

 I continue to be amazed at the fluidity with which my bike goes from 
 pavement to dirt road to trail, handling each as though it were made for it 
 (which it is!). I've never had a bike this happy to go anywhere, do 
 anything, loaded or not with me comfortable the whole way. Sheer delight! 
 Have fun, whatever you choose. You really can't go wrong working with the 
 Rivfolk.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 9:52:44 AM UTC-7, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 Absolutely I'm up for the swap, Ben.  I've had what I now know is 
 typically great and patient help from the RivFolk, and for this first bike, 
 I sheepishly confess, I may just go with a build kit, as I feel pretty far 
 away from knowing both the current component market and more specifically 
 what works best on a Sam, whereas RivFolk have sorted through the 
 questions.  As others have suggested, this need not be a one-time or short 
 term project, and I am already thinking to use cable splitters to build a 
 second cockpit with drops, and go with the upright Alb buiid kit for now. I 
 used to know a little bit about bikes, but let all of it, and frequent 
 riding, get away from me (as in, where is that BB puller living 
 nowadays?) 

 I feel lucky to get the frame at the sale price, and have been told that 
 for my build (5'11, 87 PBH) the 56 Sam is even better than the forthcoming 
 58, new for this year.  (By what means, Ben, are you adding the custom 
 paint--optioned via Riv?)  For the moment, they are holding the frame as I 
 decide on the build.

 On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 8:03:28 PM UTC-5, BenG wrote:

 Hi Tom!  Similar story here - I bought the last green 60cm Hillborne 
 sale frame, which was a shop return. With custom paint it'll be only a bit 
 over $100 from new frame price - Yay!  I'm at the low end of 60's pbh 
 range, figuring to use bosco bars and enjoy the extra retreat.  I have an 
 Albatross bar with Silver bar-ends and mtb brake levers on a Specialized 
 commuter, and it has served me Very Well.  That machine, stock, had a 
 flat 
 bar road bike cockpit (grin), but the pursuit of comfort brought a 
 low-rise mtb bar, a moustache bar on a steer tube extender, and finally 
 the 
 Albatross, where comfort lives.  Good chance you'll like it, too.
 It would be fun to swap pics with you down the road.  What say?
 Ben Guthrie

 On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:15:55 PM UTC-5, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 Just over an hour ago, I snagged the last Sam Hillborne frame from Riv 
 at the sale price; I'm going to wait on the build a bit and think over 
 drops, moustaches, or albies, but am leaning towards the albatross bars 
 as 
 something new for me.  But really, I can't wait to try the new ride.  
 Much 
 appreciation to this welcoming group. Any Riv riders in South Florida?  



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[RBW] FS: Berthoud grey saddlebag/rack

2013-02-28 Thread Joe Bernard

New, unused, like this one on Ebay (which is ridiculously overpriced for a 
used bag). I can snap a pic and get the model name when I get home this 
weekend.
$220 shipped. I paid much more, but such is life; I'm not using it, and 
it's way too nice to be hiding in my closet. 
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gilles-Berthoud-trunk-bag-seatpost-mount-w-rack-gray-w-leather-Rivendell-touring-/111018482514?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item19d9379b52
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA. 
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Front fender mount on Blue Sams - how to?

2013-02-28 Thread Shoji Takahashi

Whichever way you choose. 

Brake bolt is fine (L-bracket-- you can use Sheldon Fender Nuts for easier 
on/off). Mount it under the fork crown with a fork crown daruma bolt. Some 
bicycle forks have threaded fender mount, but I don't think Rivs have that.



On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:34:11 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 Does a fender mount on the brake bolt, or does the fork have one of those 
 thingamajjiggies for direct bolting fenders to the fork crown?
 Sorry for the lack of technical jargon. I forget what that mounting 
 hole is called under the fork.
  
 Thanks for the info.


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Re: [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

2013-02-28 Thread Dan McNamara

Going to get out the file this weekend and see if I can adjust the fit of
the Pletscher in the offending area. That is, in fact, the RBW suggestion.

I'll check out the VO as well. As the Bombadil has a kickstand plate I am
pretty locked as far how the stand sits in relation to the bike.

Dan

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 11:47 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.takaha...@gmail.com
wrote:

The plastic feet are wide. Good for stability, but it could cause a
problem in the up position. I tried it on a ss bike: too much one way, and
the feet were into the spokes; too much the other way and they were into
the pedal/foot.

For wheel flop, I take my ankle band and wrap it around the tire and
downtube. I used to have an extra bungie cord on my basket, but that
disappeared.

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:55:22 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:

I have this one on my Atlantis with the 50mm Marathon Supremes, and it
clears those pretty fat tires just fine. http://store.velo-orange.com/**
index.php/accessories/**chainguards-stay-protectors-**
kickstands/vo-retractable-**dual-leg-kickstand.htmlhttp://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands/vo-retractable-dual-leg-kickstand.html
I like the ability to adjust the length of the kickstand legs when you
change tires, too. Works very well. Whether the rear or front is lifted
with the stand down depends on where the load is, though; I try to adjust
the length of the legs so that both tires are as close to the ground as
possible.

*From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.**com [mailto:rbw-owne...@**
googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Dan McNamara

*Sent:* Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:28 PM
*To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.**com

*Subject:* [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

So far there are two options from VO, a couple from Hebie and at least
one from Crow. Any user feedback on these and ideas on others?

Thanks in advance

Dan

-Marin

Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
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[RBW] Re: Front fender mount on Blue Sams - how to?

2013-02-28 Thread Minh

none of the rivendells have anything built in on the forks to accommodate 
front fender mounting, you'll have to use a l-bracket or a fork daruma.  
for metal fenders most of us use fork darumas, that's how i have it on my 
orange sam. 

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:34:11 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 Does a fender mount on the brake bolt, or does the fork have one of those 
 thingamajjiggies for direct bolting fenders to the fork crown?
 Sorry for the lack of technical jargon. I forget what that mounting 
 hole is called under the fork.
  
 Thanks for the info.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Introduction

2013-02-28 Thread Philip Williamson

There was an article in an old Reader (#26?) about your pedals, with the wooden 
platforms. That's what I meant by OG. It was half of the inspiration for the 
decks I make that snap into clipless pedals. You have the perfect thing, right 
there. The cleated ones would wiggle around. I do like the arch support you can 
get with a skate deck pedal, and the pretty, laminated construction, but I 
think your oak deck is pretty great. 
Currently, I'm experimenting with VP001s with grip tape on one side, and spikes 
on the other. 

And I see that I've drifted this thread far from the subject line. So, Welcome! 
Welcome to the list, we're happy to have you.

Philip
www.biketinker.cim

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Re: [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

On my Bomba, I had NeoMotos on it when I first tried to mount the
kickstand; same problem, took the kickstand back off.

Thing was, I wasn't planning on permanently running Neos, so once I
switched to the Contis, I didn't have a problem (but mine are the 42s, not
the 54s).

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:16:20 PM UTC-5, danmc wrote:

Going to get out the file this weekend and see if I can adjust the fit
of the Pletscher in the offending area. That is, in fact, the RBW
suggestion.

I'll check out the VO as well. As the Bombadil has a kickstand plate I am
pretty locked as far how the stand sits in relation to the bike.

Dan

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 11:47 AM, Shoji Takahashi
shoji.t...@gmail.comjavascript:
wrote:

The plastic feet are wide. Good for stability, but it could cause a
problem in the up position. I tried it on a ss bike: too much one way, and
the feet were into the spokes; too much the other way and they were into
the pedal/foot.

For wheel flop, I take my ankle band and wrap it around the tire and
downtube. I used to have an extra bungie cord on my basket, but that
disappeared.

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:55:22 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:

*From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.**com [mailto:rbw-owne...@**
googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Dan McNamara

*Sent:* Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:28 PM
*To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.**com

*Subject:* [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

I just swapped the tires on my 52 Bombadil 2TT from Fatty Rumpkins to
the 54 (actually measure 48) Conti Tour Guards and, of course, the
Pletscher 2-legged kickstand won't clear the rear tire. By not clear I mean
the stand rubs against the tire when it is in the up position.

Any thoughts on other 2-legged stands that might clear a wide-ish tire?
I would prefer that the stand raised the rear of the bike rather than the
front to avoid the front wheel flopping around when I am loading.

So far there are two options from VO, a couple from Hebie and at least
one from Crow. Any user feedback on these and ideas on others?

Thanks in advance

Dan

-Marin

--**--**--

[RBW] Re: Front fender mount on Blue Sams - how to?

I originally had a daruma on mine, but it was too tight under there to the 
tire, so I switched to an L-bracket to improve tire clearance



On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:37:28 PM UTC-5, Minh wrote:

 none of the rivendells have anything built in on the forks to accommodate 
 front fender mounting, you'll have to use a l-bracket or a fork daruma.  
 for metal fenders most of us use fork darumas, that's how i have it on my 
 orange sam. 

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:34:11 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 Does a fender mount on the brake bolt, or does the fork have one of those 
 thingamajjiggies for direct bolting fenders to the fork crown?
 Sorry for the lack of technical jargon. I forget what that mounting 
 hole is called under the fork.
  
 Thanks for the info.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Introduction

Wandering far afield: isn't that what we're supposed to do? Grin.

Any one got a Reader with that article I could buy? I'd love to see that 
article. I know they were in a blog post, but I've not gotten any Readers.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:38:53 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 There was an article in an old Reader (#26?) about your pedals, with the 
 wooden platforms. That's what I meant by OG. It was half of the inspiration 
 for the decks I make that snap into clipless pedals. You have the perfect 
 thing, right there. The cleated ones would wiggle around. I do like the 
 arch support you can get with a skate deck pedal, and the pretty, laminated 
 construction, but I think your oak deck is pretty great. 
 Currently, I'm experimenting with VP001s with grip tape on one side, and 
 spikes on the other. 

 And I see that I've drifted this thread far from the subject line. So, 
 Welcome! Welcome to the list, we're happy to have you.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.cim



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[RBW] Appropriate Crank Arm length

2013-02-28 Thread Michael Williams

Hey Group,   just wondering if any has any information on correct crank arm 
length.   Im 5'11 PBH is 89.5cm and Ive always ridden 170's without 
thinking too much about it.Do longer cranks offer anything different?   
thanks in advance.   -Mike

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

2013-02-28 Thread Garth


To each their own Michael. There is no formula .  I've ridden everything 
from 185's to 152's. I prefer the 152 :)   

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

There are humans exactly your height riding just about every crank arm 
length out there.  The conventional wisdom is that longer arms are harder 
to spin but give you a little more power.  Smart people who don't care a 
lot about optimal performance when cycling will correctly say 170mm is 
fine, but so is 175mm.  Some very smart people who DO care a lot about 
performance also say it doesn't matter, 170mm is fine.  I'm basically your 
height and I've always been a 172.5mm guy.  Even though I now have begun to 
acknowledge that it doesn't matter if I end up with 170s or 175s, I still 
prefer to run 172.5mm if possible, but not for any measurably provable 
reason.  

If you decided to really dwell on it, you'll find many testimonials on the 
interwebs of how that lousy bike fitter told me to use 177.5, and it 
destroyed my patella tendon and I switched to 175 and now I'm pain free!. 
 Take them with a pinch of salt.  There's absolutely no problem with a 
human your height running 170s, or 175s, or something else.  

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:47:27 PM UTC-8, Michael Williams wrote:

 Hey Group,   just wondering if any has any information on correct crank 
 arm length.   Im 5'11 PBH is 89.5cm and Ive always ridden 170's without 
 thinking too much about it.Do longer cranks offer anything different?   
 thanks in advance.   -Mike

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

2013-02-28 Thread Michael Hechmer

The proof is in the pudding...ur spinning.  I'm 6'1 with  PBH of 90.5.  I 
cannot tell the difference between 175  72.5, but if I ride 170 for awhile 
tend to develop knee pain.  I would offer that you are unlikely to 
experience any performance benefit  from changing crank length, but if 
you are experiencing discomfort then crank length is one of a number of 
variables you want to think about.

Michael,
two miles down a dirt road as the great thaw begins!

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 4:47:27 PM UTC-5, Michael Williams wrote:

 Hey Group,   just wondering if any has any information on correct crank 
 arm length.   Im 5'11 PBH is 89.5cm and Ive always ridden 170's without 
 thinking too much about it.Do longer cranks offer anything different?   
 thanks in advance.   -Mike

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

2013-02-28 Thread Liesl

I totally agree with William and Garth, but as a shorter, older 
person——okay, a short and mature person—I think it's helpful to say that a 
really long crank arm is hard on my knees.  It would be curious to know if 
crank length is more of an issue for short legs rather than the longer 
legged end of the spectrum.  Kind of like Q-factor.  Anyone out there 
know?  -Liesl

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[RBW] Re: rack capacities

2013-02-28 Thread Michael Hechmer

I can't make any sense out of these rack weight numbers.  Rack weights are 
not calculated in lbs.  A gallon of milk weighs 8  lbs., which is a lot for 
a mini front rack, but I wouldn't expect the rack to break.  What are you 
telling us?   

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:37:52 AM UTC-5, grant wrote:

 Mark's rack is 4.4 pounds.
 Nitto Mini, 13.

 The big rears, 44.

 Nitto is conservative, but try to heed these. The racks are well made of 
 good materials, but are not unbreakable...even tho they're CrMo and Nitto 
 and sold by us. Doo be careful, and if you put a basket on a Mark's 
 rack and use it for milk--I mean, if you cannot be talked out of that, then 
 lift the load off the rack with straps to the handlebars front and rear, 
 making sure the load is lower than the bar, so that cinching the strap 
 doesn't impose a downward force on the load and multimply the stress on the 
 rack. 
 Check bolt tightness.
 The specs come with racks now, and are on the sight.

 Be careful, safe, and aware.


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[RBW] Re: rack capacities

What Grant is telling us is:

If you are running the Mark's Rack, try hard to keep the weight of the 
cargo on the mark's rack to 4.4 lbs or less.  
If you are running the Nitto Mini front rack, try hard to keep the weight 
of the cargo on the Mini Front Rack to 13 lbs or less.
If you are running the Nitto Big Rear Rack, try hard to keep the weight of 
the cargo on the Big Rear Rack to 44 lbs or less.

Gallon of milk on the Mini Front Rack is no problem, because 8lbs is less 
than 13lbs.  
Gallon of milk on the Mark's Rack is pushing it, because 8lbs is greater 
than 4.4lbs.  

My understanding of what Nitto does is that they do a very vigorous shake 
test with that load.  If it passes the shake test for that load, then they 
recommend that load.  That's why it's in lbs, and not in force - amplitude 
- frequency - cycles etc.  Even though the Nitto test in actuality is in 
force, amplitude, frequency, cycles.  An Engineer might like those numbers, 
but it's hard to take that into the real world.  

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:15:13 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I can't make any sense out of these rack weight numbers.  Rack weights are 
 not calculated in lbs.  A gallon of milk weighs 8  lbs., which is a lot for 
 a mini front rack, but I wouldn't expect the rack to break.  What are you 
 telling us?   

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:37:52 AM UTC-5, grant wrote:

 Mark's rack is 4.4 pounds.
 Nitto Mini, 13.

 The big rears, 44.

 Nitto is conservative, but try to heed these. The racks are well made of 
 good materials, but are not unbreakable...even tho they're CrMo and Nitto 
 and sold by us. Doo be careful, and if you put a basket on a Mark's 
 rack and use it for milk--I mean, if you cannot be talked out of that, then 
 lift the load off the rack with straps to the handlebars front and rear, 
 making sure the load is lower than the bar, so that cinching the strap 
 doesn't impose a downward force on the load and multimply the stress on the 
 rack. 
 Check bolt tightness.
 The specs come with racks now, and are on the sight.

 Be careful, safe, and aware.



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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

2013-02-28 Thread Kelly

I'm 6'5 tall and have always run 175's and read often about Zinn 
recommending 180 190 etc.   Anyway when I built my Ram I wanted the Rene 
Herse Cranks at 170 for looks of course..   Anyway I can't tell the 
difference.  
I would imagine with my bad knee the shorter is probably easier on my knees 
as they don't have to bend as much.. just my thought but blah blah.. 

I put 165's on once and didn't notice till I sold the bike and saw it 
written in the crank.   

I'm lucky I'm not that sensitive to bike setup.. yet I have a friends who 
swears she can tell the reach difference with she puts riding gloves on. 

Kelly

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:47:27 PM UTC-6, Michael Williams wrote:

 Hey Group,   just wondering if any has any information on correct crank 
 arm length.   Im 5'11 PBH is 89.5cm and Ive always ridden 170's without 
 thinking too much about it.Do longer cranks offer anything different?   
 thanks in advance.   -Mike

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

Kelly

Back in my bike shop past lifeA friend of mine was doing work on two of 
his bikes at the same time at the shop.  One he was keeping and the other 
he was prepping to sell.  About a month later he had his bike back in the 
stand.  He took the chain off, and the cranks rotated left leg down.  The 
motion looked suspicious, so I looked, and sure enough, he had a 175mm 
right arm and a 177.5 left arm.  He'd swapped them by mistake a month 
earlier when he was working on both bikes.  He hadn't noticed the 
difference.  

He called the guy he sold the other bike to, and said Um, hi, it's me 
Shawn.  Yeah, you've had the bike for about a month.  I should, um, give it 
a little tune up for you.  Drop it off for an hour or so.  OK?  cool



On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:42:38 PM UTC-8, Kelly wrote:

 I'm 6'5 tall and have always run 175's and read often about Zinn 
 recommending 180 190 etc.   Anyway when I built my Ram I wanted the Rene 
 Herse Cranks at 170 for looks of course..   Anyway I can't tell the 
 difference.  
 I would imagine with my bad knee the shorter is probably easier on my 
 knees as they don't have to bend as much.. just my thought but blah blah.. 

 I put 165's on once and didn't notice till I sold the bike and saw it 
 written in the crank.   

 I'm lucky I'm not that sensitive to bike setup.. yet I have a friends who 
 swears she can tell the reach difference with she puts riding gloves on. 

 Kelly

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:47:27 PM UTC-6, Michael Williams wrote:

 Hey Group,   just wondering if any has any information on correct crank 
 arm length.   Im 5'11 PBH is 89.5cm and Ive always ridden 170's without 
 thinking too much about it.Do longer cranks offer anything different?   
 thanks in advance.   -Mike



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Re: [RBW] Re: rack capacities

2013-02-28 Thread PATRICK MOORE

I've not owned a Nitto rack, so these numbers come as a surprise -- very
low. The Tubus Fly, all 11 oz of it, and its silver brother, are rated for
18 kg/40 lb; the Logo for 40 kg/88 lb, and the Duo front for 33 lb.

Hell, I've carried 35+ on a Pletscher, but it wasn't pretty.

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 4:40 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 What Grant is telling us is:

 If you are running the Mark's Rack, try hard to keep the weight of the
 cargo on the mark's rack to 4.4 lbs or less.
 If you are running the Nitto Mini front rack, try hard to keep the weight
 of the cargo on the Mini Front Rack to 13 lbs or less.
 If you are running the Nitto Big Rear Rack, try hard to keep the weight of
 the cargo on the Big Rear Rack to 44 lbs or less.

 Gallon of milk on the Mini Front Rack is no problem, because 8lbs is less
 than 13lbs.
 Gallon of milk on the Mark's Rack is pushing it, because 8lbs is greater
 than 4.4lbs.

 My understanding of what Nitto does is that they do a very vigorous shake
 test with that load.  If it passes the shake test for that load, then they
 recommend that load.  That's why it's in lbs, and not in force - amplitude
 - frequency - cycles etc.  Even though the Nitto test in actuality is in
 force, amplitude, frequency, cycles.  An Engineer might like those numbers,
 but it's hard to take that into the real world.


 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:15:13 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I can't make any sense out of these rack weight numbers.  Rack weights
 are not calculated in lbs.  A gallon of milk weighs 8  lbs., which is a lot
 for a mini front rack, but I wouldn't expect the rack to break.  What are
 you telling us?

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:37:52 AM UTC-5, grant wrote:

 Mark's rack is 4.4 pounds.
 Nitto Mini, 13.

 The big rears, 44.

 Nitto is conservative, but try to heed these. The racks are well made of
 good materials, but are not unbreakable...even tho they're CrMo and Nitto
 and sold by us. Doo be careful, and if you put a basket on a Mark's
 rack and use it for milk--I mean, if you cannot be talked out of that, then
 lift the load off the rack with straps to the handlebars front and rear,
 making sure the load is lower than the bar, so that cinching the strap
 doesn't impose a downward force on the load and multimply the stress on the
 rack.
 Check bolt tightness.
 The specs come with racks now, and are on the sight.

 Be careful, safe, and aware.

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-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

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Re: [RBW] Re: rack capacities

2013-02-28 Thread Jim Mather

I'm surprised by those numbers too. I used a medium Wald zip-tied to a
Mark's rack for regular loads of 10 to 15 pounds (e.g., a gallon of milk
plus other stuff) and never had an issue.

jim m
wc ca

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 3:55 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've not owned a Nitto rack, so these numbers come as a surprise -- very
 low. The Tubus Fly, all 11 oz of it, and its silver brother, are rated for
 18 kg/40 lb; the Logo for 40 kg/88 lb, and the Duo front for 33 lb.



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Re: [RBW] Re: rack capacities

2013-02-28 Thread PATRICK MOORE

FWIW, I carried home 21+lb in my Sackville Medium today -- had to lash the
overlflow with ropes made from extra plastic grocery bags. On a more
calorie dense grocery run I managed to stuff 25 lb into it without overflow.

(Again, FWIW: In order of hugeness and grocery swallering ability, this per
my own, personal, certified, and confirmed experience:

#1 Hoss (but not by much)
#2 S Medium
#3 Camper Longflap
#4 Nelson Longflap.)

I hear that the Sackville Huge is even bigger.

But: none of these carries what can be carried easily in a pair of good
grocery panniers -- have a pair of Banjo Bros Market Panniers on order.
Those should outcarry even my Packer Pluses -- without the hassle of
cinches, buckles, straps, flaps, extensions, and so forth.

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 4:59 PM, Jim Mather mather...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm surprised by those numbers too. I used a medium Wald zip-tied to a
 Mark's rack for regular loads of 10 to 15 pounds (e.g., a gallon of milk
 plus other stuff) and never had an issue.

 jim m
 wc ca

 On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 3:55 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.comwrote:

 I've not owned a Nitto rack, so these numbers come as a surprise -- very
 low. The Tubus Fly, all 11 oz of it, and its silver brother, are rated for
 18 kg/40 lb; the Logo for 40 kg/88 lb, and the Duo front for 33 lb.

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-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

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[RBW] Re: East Bay Mixed Terrain Ride 3/3 9:30ish

2013-02-28 Thread ted

I haven't been all the way to that gate, there is a rather steep drop
I haven't cared to go back up, but I suspect you are right. The
approved plan for the park includes the addition of a staging area at
the north end and the opening of some additional land.

On Feb 27, 9:08 pm, Jim Mather mather...@gmail.com wrote:
 If one were to go to the northern boundary of Pleasanton Ridge Park, it
 looks like one could hop a fence and get to Dublin Canyon Rd on what might
 not be an official trail. That would allow you to continue northwards
 without sidetracking too much. Of course, one would need to be willing to
 ride on an unofficial trail.

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

Was this Joe at The Kickstand? Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 4:48:37 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Kelly

 Back in my bike shop past lifeA friend of mine was doing work on two 
 of his bikes at the same time at the shop.  One he was keeping and the 
 other he was prepping to sell.  About a month later he had his bike back in 
 the stand.  He took the chain off, and the cranks rotated left leg down. 
  The motion looked suspicious, so I looked, and sure enough, he had a 175mm 
 right arm and a 177.5 left arm.  He'd swapped them by mistake a month 
 earlier when he was working on both bikes.  He hadn't noticed the 
 difference.  

 He called the guy he sold the other bike to, and said Um, hi, it's me 
 Shawn.  Yeah, you've had the bike for about a month.  I should, um, give it 
 a little tune up for you.  Drop it off for an hour or so.  OK?  cool



 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:42:38 PM UTC-8, Kelly wrote:

 I'm 6'5 tall and have always run 175's and read often about Zinn 
 recommending 180 190 etc.   Anyway when I built my Ram I wanted the Rene 
 Herse Cranks at 170 for looks of course..   Anyway I can't tell the 
 difference.  
 I would imagine with my bad knee the shorter is probably easier on my 
 knees as they don't have to bend as much.. just my thought but blah blah.. 

 I put 165's on once and didn't notice till I sold the bike and saw it 
 written in the crank.   

 I'm lucky I'm not that sensitive to bike setup.. yet I have a friends who 
 swears she can tell the reach difference with she puts riding gloves on. 

 Kelly

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:47:27 PM UTC-6, Michael Williams wrote:

 Hey Group,   just wondering if any has any information on correct crank 
 arm length.   Im 5'11 PBH is 89.5cm and Ive always ridden 170's without 
 thinking too much about it.Do longer cranks offer anything different?   
 thanks in advance.   -Mike



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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

Joe nor Thistle would do such.  Yehuda, on the other hand...

;)

-L

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

Yeah, but I didn't want to insult the guy's friend. Sardonic grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 5:54:39 PM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:

 Joe nor Thistle would do such.  Yehuda, on the other hand...

 ;)

 -L



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Re: [RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

2013-02-28 Thread Bruce Herbitter

Here's what Cranky had to say about it...

http://sheldonbrown.com/cranks.html

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 6:59 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Yeah, but I didn't want to insult the guy's friend. Sardonic grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 5:54:39 PM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:

 Joe nor Thistle would do such.  Yehuda, on the other hand...

 ;)

 -L

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Re: [RBW] Re: rack capacities

2013-02-28 Thread Philip Williamson

...had to lash the overlflow with ropes made from extra plastic grocery 
bags.

Okay, that's genius. I'm going to go home and make a rope of grocery bags. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 4:11:47 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 FWIW, I carried home 21+lb in my Sackville Medium today -- had to lash the 
 overlflow with ropes made from extra plastic grocery bags. On a more 
 calorie dense grocery run I managed to stuff 25 lb into it without overflow.

 (Again, FWIW: In order of hugeness and grocery swallering ability, this 
 per my own, personal, certified, and confirmed experience:

 #1 Hoss (but not by much)
 #2 S Medium
 #3 Camper Longflap
 #4 Nelson Longflap.)

 I hear that the Sackville Huge is even bigger.

 But: none of these carries what can be carried easily in a pair of good 
 grocery panniers -- have a pair of Banjo Bros Market Panniers on order. 
 Those should outcarry even my Packer Pluses -- without the hassle of 
 cinches, buckles, straps, flaps, extensions, and so forth.

 On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 4:59 PM, Jim Mather math...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I'm surprised by those numbers too. I used a medium Wald zip-tied to a 
 Mark's rack for regular loads of 10 to 15 pounds (e.g., a gallon of milk 
 plus other stuff) and never had an issue.

 jim m
 wc ca

 On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 3:55 PM, PATRICK MOORE 
 bert...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I've not owned a Nitto rack, so these numbers come as a surprise -- very 
 low. The Tubus Fly, all 11 oz of it, and its silver brother, are rated for 
 18 kg/40 lb; the Logo for 40 kg/88 lb, and the Duo front for 33 lb.

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Re: [RBW] Re: rack capacities

Remember that Grant said Nitto is conservative.  I've seen $20 aluminum 
el-crappo racks at bike shops that are rated to 40 lbs.  A rack like that 
may make it home from the grocery store with 40 lbs.  Hook a couple  of 20 
lb panniers to it  go touring for a few weeks.  It may survive  it may 
not.  

44 lbs on a rear rack is one heckuva load beyond a few miles.  I've played 
with loads on tour for a long time.  I have no special lightweight gear and 
like my comfort.  Something like 40 lbs is typical BUT spread around 4 
bags.  To my taste ( not everyone's, I realize), a couple of 12 lb 
panniers on the front  a couple of 8 lbs on the rear works nicely.  The 
rears are not fully stuffed so there's room for a late afternoon grocery 
stop.  

How Tubus comes up with their numbers may be a difference between Japanese 
standards  German.  I have Tubus Duo front rack  a Nitto Big Back rack.  
Both work well.  

dougP

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:59:48 PM UTC-8, Jim M. wrote:

 I'm surprised by those numbers too. I used a medium Wald zip-tied to a 
 Mark's rack for regular loads of 10 to 15 pounds (e.g., a gallon of milk 
 plus other stuff) and never had an issue.

 jim m
 wc ca

 On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 3:55 PM, PATRICK MOORE bert...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I've not owned a Nitto rack, so these numbers come as a surprise -- very 
 low. The Tubus Fly, all 11 oz of it, and its silver brother, are rated for 
 18 kg/40 lb; the Logo for 40 kg/88 lb, and the Duo front for 33 lb.



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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

Michael:

If it feels right, it is.  I've always ridden 170 on road bikes.  Way back 
when bolted a 175 MTB crankset to a road bike for the triple rings  never 
noticed a difference.  My Atlantis came with 175s which I rode for a long 
time but kept knocking on things off road so I swapped with a list member 
for a aet in 170.  Other than giving me whatever ittty-bitty more ground 
clearance I needed, I couldn't tell any diffference.  

dougP

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:47:27 PM UTC-8, Michael Williams wrote:

 Hey Group,   just wondering if any has any information on correct crank 
 arm length.   Im 5'11 PBH is 89.5cm and Ive always ridden 170's without 
 thinking too much about it.Do longer cranks offer anything different?   
 thanks in advance.   -Mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: rack capacities

Conservative or not:  Nitto has published allowable loads, and when people go 
beyond said loads, Nitto nor anyone who has sold something from Nitto, would 
want to incur liability because of said excessive loads.   

So, respect the loads.   If you choose to go beyond them, don't 'flaunt' or 
encourage others to do the same.   

Like when I was running knobby NeoMotos under my fenders on my Bomba:  I'm sure 
people were getting tired of me saying it every time, but I felt the need to 
emphasize: don't do it, for safety's sake.   I wanted to see IF it would clear, 
but can't recommend to anyone to run knobbies under fenders, just in case a 
stick got stuck (even though I liked having fenders over knobbies, to keep the 
mud off).

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[RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

Gernot's got the right idea.  Instead of us trying to figure out how 
Rivendell can give us low priced lugged bikes, we need to figure out how 
to organize our resources, expenses  priorities to afford a Rivendell.  I 
really truly believe Grant  Co are doing the best they can to deliver a 
quality, uncompromised product at a fair price.  Somehow people justify 
cars costing 10X a Rivendell (it's only monthly payments).  The bike will 
be a pleasure to own long after the car is on the scrap heap.  

When I bought my Atlantis 10 years ago, it cost 3X what I'd paid for the 
most expensive bike I'd bought to date.  However, I told myself I could 
screw around with compromises for the rest of my life or just get what I 
wanted  enjoy it for decades.  We're about to start our second decade 
together.  

Where there's sufficient will, there is a way.  I think Rivendell has done 
their part.  

dougP

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:08:04 AM UTC-8, Earl Grey wrote:

 Here is how to get a budget Riv now (other than waiting for a used deal, 
 which could also take a while):

 Get yourself a zero % interest credit card. Get a Sam or Betty now before 
 the price goes up (get the unpainted head tube if still available in your 
 size). Set up automatic payments so that you pay off the frame before the 
 interest kicks in. Find a bargain older bike on Craig's List that has a 
 suitable selection of parts. Move the parts over (650B wheels will be a 
 problem, though). Scrounge for the rest (long reach brakes and wheels) here 
 on the RBW list and the iBob list. 

 The $400 you could save in a budget frame is a pittance even on a budget 
 if spread out over a year. Commit to cooking for your family instead of 
 going out to eat, do without cable, stop drinking beer and wine for a year, 
 or juice (it's not that healthy, anyway), whatever. Or ride your new bike 
 everywhere if you are now driving a car. Sell the car, buy a trailer for 
 the kids, or a front mounted and rear mounted child seat. There are ways to 
 save $40 a month if you are working and living in the US. I waited for 
 years before buying a Riv because they seemed so extravagant. Buying the 
 original Sam at $1000 in 2009 felt like a super-splurge bordering on the 
 irresponsible, but I bit the bullet because it was half of the other Rivs. 
 I wish I hadn't waited so long.

 Hope I don't sound preachy, and perhaps your finances are more dire than 
 mine are/were (maxed out credit cards?), but most employed folk in the US 
 can afford a Sam, especially if it can replace car trips some of the time. 
 It's mostly a matter of priorities, and perhaps overcoming fear. 

 Cheers,

 Gernot

 PS: Moving to a cheaper country doesn't hurt. :)

 GH in Thailand without a car with a 2.5 year old and an 8 month old, 
 wife's student loans finally paid off a year ago. 


 On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 7:36:21 AM UTC+7, murphyjrfk wrote:

 I love all the answers. And the what not.  But I suppose I forgot to 
 mention I don't care if the bike they come out with didn't have lugs was a 
 mixte with gray primer as pain t and not a single decal.  I'm not tall so 
 generally ride a 52 give or take and the thing that drives me crazy is you 
 can't buy a smaller bike with a shallow seat tube.  Even the lht-which I 
 have and like well enough-has a 74 degree seat tube.  And man I love 
 shallow seat tubes. My wife and I have mountains o' student loans and small 
 children so even when there is enough money I can't justify it.  But man do 
 I want the GP sweetness regardless o' what it looks like! 

  this group is the best.


 On Wednesday, February 20, 2013 11:58:02 AM UTC-5, murphyjrfk wrote:

 Does any one know if the budget riv is still being considered planned 
 anything? I hope so. And sooner rather than later.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

2013-02-28 Thread Michael Williams

Thanks to everyone who replied!these are just the answers/ideas Im
looking for.   If they feel right,  they are right.ride safe!-Mike

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 2:44 PM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 To each their own Michael. There is no formula .  I've ridden everything
 from 185's to 152's. I prefer the 152 :)

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Crank Arm length

2013-02-28 Thread Kelly

That was great, thanks forme laugh

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[RBW] Atlantis as snow bike

My fellow steel bike enthusiast Noel got a rare mid-week day off work  kid 
duties so we planned a ride up Saddleback.  The highest peaks in Orange 
County are Modjeska  Santiago, at over 5,000'.  They are informally 
referred to as Saddleback.  Last week the snow level in Southern California 
dropped to around 3,000' in places, and Saddleback looked to have a nice 
dusting but was clear within a few days.  We never expected to ride in 
snow.  For those familiar with the area, our route was out Santiago Cyn 
from the El Toro area, over Modejeska Grade (a speed bump on the way) then 
up Modejska Cyn to the end where the Harding Truck Trail is the dirt road 
up to Saddleback.  One the way we met a trail runner who let us know to 
expect snow  ice if we planned to go over the ridge  drop into Silverado 
Cyn, which was our plan.  Sure enough, as we gained altitude, the temp 
dropped  we slogged thru a few inches of snow  broke thru crusts of ice 
on shaded, north facing sections of the road.  Amazing how little snow it 
takes to cover rocks that one wishes he'd avoided.  A bit of skating here, 
rear wheel spinning there, and some pushing but we slogged thru without 
getting our feet seriously wet or falling over.  Noel's bike is a custom 
650b with Rohloff hub and my Atlantis uses 40 mm tires, just right for 
trail blazing.  

The top out at the main divide is over 4,000'.  We elected not to try the 
last 1,000' feet or so to the absolute top of the mountain but plunged down 
into Silverado.  More snow  ice lurked in the protected areas.  We were 
passed by one MTBer who said he was not enjoying that part one bit.  Maybe 
he had the wrong bike?  

Lunch at the Silverado Cafe was at hour 5  mile 23.  I'm not a good 
descender (heck, not much of a climber either!) but Noel was kind enough to 
wait up for me.  We finished up back at Noel's house for a total of 31 
miles.  No idea on total elevation gain but let's call it good enough.  
And neither of us carry a camera so no photos to prove it really happened.  
We both agreed photos of a couple of So Cal natives in shorts  T-shirts, 
on road bikes in the snow on a dirt road would have been worthwhile.  Maybe 
we'll do it tomorrow just for the pix (NOT!).  

dougP

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis as snow bike

2013-02-28 Thread Michael Williams

Sounds like a great time!If it was just regular conditions, it wouldnt
have been as memorable!-Mike

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 7:58 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

 My fellow steel bike enthusiast Noel got a rare mid-week day off work 
 kid duties so we planned a ride up Saddleback.  The highest peaks in Orange
 County are Modjeska  Santiago, at over 5,000'.  They are informally
 referred to as Saddleback.  Last week the snow level in Southern California
 dropped to around 3,000' in places, and Saddleback looked to have a nice
 dusting but was clear within a few days.  We never expected to ride in
 snow.  For those familiar with the area, our route was out Santiago Cyn
 from the El Toro area, over Modejeska Grade (a speed bump on the way) then
 up Modejska Cyn to the end where the Harding Truck Trail is the dirt road
 up to Saddleback.  One the way we met a trail runner who let us know to
 expect snow  ice if we planned to go over the ridge  drop into Silverado
 Cyn, which was our plan.  Sure enough, as we gained altitude, the temp
 dropped  we slogged thru a few inches of snow  broke thru crusts of ice
 on shaded, north facing sections of the road.  Amazing how little snow it
 takes to cover rocks that one wishes he'd avoided.  A bit of skating here,
 rear wheel spinning there, and some pushing but we slogged thru without
 getting our feet seriously wet or falling over.  Noel's bike is a custom
 650b with Rohloff hub and my Atlantis uses 40 mm tires, just right for
 trail blazing.

 The top out at the main divide is over 4,000'.  We elected not to try the
 last 1,000' feet or so to the absolute top of the mountain but plunged down
 into Silverado.  More snow  ice lurked in the protected areas.  We were
 passed by one MTBer who said he was not enjoying that part one bit.  Maybe
 he had the wrong bike?

 Lunch at the Silverado Cafe was at hour 5  mile 23.  I'm not a good
 descender (heck, not much of a climber either!) but Noel was kind enough to
 wait up for me.  We finished up back at Noel's house for a total of 31
 miles.  No idea on total elevation gain but let's call it good enough.
 And neither of us carry a camera so no photos to prove it really happened.
 We both agreed photos of a couple of So Cal natives in shorts  T-shirts,
 on road bikes in the snow on a dirt road would have been worthwhile.  Maybe
 we'll do it tomorrow just for the pix (NOT!).

 dougP

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Re: [RBW] Re: rack capacities

2013-02-28 Thread Ryan Ray

Do fender eyelets have a weight limit? 

I have a tubus rated at 80lbs but I can't imagine 80lbs on those tiny eyelets. 

- Ryan 

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[RBW] Re: Recently joined the group; and now a new Riv [frame] owner

2013-02-28 Thread BenG

After discussing experience, preferences and finances, Jared told me my 
5'11 x 89pbh wants the 60cm, and he proposed the last green sale frame. 
 Given the frame discount, I asked about custom paint, and Keven Mowen 
hooked me up.  His painter's backlog was low enough that my frame could be 
done by month end - today!
Interesting idea that, splitting the cables.  You sound like you've done 
cables before, so if Jared buys in you might as well follow your bliss. 
 I'll look forward to hearing how they work.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot Frame/Fork/HS/BB/etc.

2013-02-28 Thread Jayme Frye

Pics Please. :-)

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:58:53 PM UTC-6, colinthehippie wrote:

 For your consideration, one much loved 59cm Bleriot in typical condition 
 (photos available upon request).  Includes a Campognolo headset, dirty 
 bottom bracket, and Dia-Compe centerpull brakes (if you want em - I 
 recommend em).  Scratches / dings here and there, but otherwise every bit 
 the grand frame it's purported to be.  I have moved on to less gears (one 
 to be exact).

 I hate to part with it, so in honor of the best tire size in the world, 
 I'll start at $650 plus actual shipping, probably $60-$75 in the contiguous 
 US.  Great bike.

 Also have some Albatross bars and a Wald basket or two.  Email me off list 
 if you want something like that.

 Cheers,

 Colin Cummings
 Amarillo, TX


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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: matching trunksacks (was: New look on Quickbeam)

2013-02-28 Thread Geoff Klingsporn

Ron,

Those look really nice with the liners! Good work. Two questions: how much
would you ask for the set, shipped to Denver; and, how well would an iPad
fit in the larger sack, with the liner installed?

Thanks,
Geoff

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 9:06 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

how about grid gray sackville? If you check my profile, I just have a few
miles on a set (mostly the front), and have made a set of thin, removable
closed-cell foam liners for them.

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 11:47:20 AM UTC-6, Geoffrey Klingsporn
wrote:

I like the look of Bob's new setup so much that I'd like to try it myself
on my old Orange QB. Before I drop the extra (hah!) cash, I always find it
worthwhile to ask what might be lurking in the group's collective parts
collection.

If anyone has a matching set of front and back (small and large)
trunksacks for sale, please contact me offlist. Tweed is great but not
obligatory.

Thanks!
Geoff
(Denver)

On Fri, Feb 22, 2013 at 3:05 PM, Robert F. Harrison
rfhar...@gmail.comwrote:

It's been raining hard today here in Honolulu with flash flood warnings
and everything. Of course I was out in it on my Hunqapillar getting soaked
as met up with a friend for breakfast. Coming home wet as a drowned rat I
was pleased to see a shipment from RBW. I completely forgot about the
weather. :-)

I've been continuing to play around with my Quickbeam now that the
Hunqapillar has become the bike I used for carrying stuff around. Because
of all the rain we've been having I decided to switch to Gripsters and away
from Grip Kings (love both, keeping the GKs for other uses).

I also decided that since I have an Acorn saddlebag and a handlebar bag
they should both go on the same bike. I've also always like trunk bags but
since I've got a basket on the Hunq (moved from the QB) it can't take one
right now. But...I was pretty sure my QB would look great with a matched
set of Sackville TrunkSacks so with a little extra cash (is there ever such
a thing as 'extra cash?') I picked up new pedals and matching TrunkSacks.
I'd thought about the Nigel Smythes but as I have a Sackville huge saddle
bag...well bag matching may not be my thing all the time but...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/**mgps-bob/8499061402/http://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/8499061402/

It's not a great picture and I'm not taking the bike out as I'm off to
Maui with my Bike Friday in about 2 hours - I'll be riding down Haleakala
on Sunday. It's also raining hard and until I put a little Obenauf's on the
leather I'm going to keep the Sackville's out of the rain.

Anyway it's the look I was going for so...happy trails all!

BTW - for those who might have wondered how the voting is going on which
bike I should ride April's Haleiwa Metric Century (
http://statrix.com/whichbike.**htm http://statrix.com/whichbike.htm),
right now it's the Quickbeam:

Bike Friday: 10
Quickbeam: 15
Hunqapillar: 12

Aloha all!

Bob

--
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Honolulu, HI
rfhar...@gmail.com
statrix.com

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[RBW] Fender Questions

2013-02-28 Thread Ojiisan

These questions might be stupid but here goes: I was running 26 x 2.0 tires 
on my Riv that just barely cleared under the fork bridge. I went down to 26 
x175 tires and now there a little clearance but not much. I haven't 
measured the space between the rubber and the fork bridge yet. I'm 
considering adding metal fenders. How much is the minimum clearance needed 
between the tire and the top of the fork? Also I see fenders described as 
26 x 40; 26 x 50; 26 x 60... What does the 40, 50  60 stand for? Finally, 
is there some reference with good knowledge that would square me away 
about fenders? Many thanks, Ojiisan

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[RBW] Force Field Fatty Rumpkins

I just got my pair of Force Field Fatty Rumpkins, and put them where they 
belong, on my Bombadil.  Nobody is going to mistake these tires for 
supple.  They're stout!  

Anyway, rumor has it these are very limited edition, because after they 
sell through this run of tires with the Fatty Rumpkin sticker on them, they 
will subsequently be stocked under a different name.  The stoutest 
Rivendell 650B tire, I'm told, will be called the Farmer Grumpkin!  

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[RBW] Re: Front fender mount on Blue Sams - how to?

2013-02-28 Thread Earl Grey

If you don't want to get a Sheldon Fender nut, you can mount the L-bracket 
in front of the fork crown, as shown in the Riv youtube video, but The rear 
part of the fendere will sit higher, making a flap more necessary (of 
course some folks will insist that a flap is always necessary). :)

Gernot


On Friday, March 1, 2013 1:34:11 AM UTC+7, Michael wrote:

 Does a fender mount on the brake bolt, or does the fork have one of those 
 thingamajjiggies for direct bolting fenders to the fork crown?
 Sorry for the lack of technical jargon. I forget what that mounting 
 hole is called under the fork.
  
 Thanks for the info.


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[RBW] Re: Fender Questions



 Rivendell has a fender installation video that has info on how to set up 
 fenders on a bike:

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/fe2.htm
 

Also, read this and scroll down to the Clearances section. Maybe this 
will help. All about putting fenders on a bike:
*http://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/01/27/does-my-bike-take-fenders/*http://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/01/27/does-my-bike-take-fenders/

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[RBW] Re: Fender Questions



 I think 40, 50, and 60, are the mm width ratings of the fender. So you can 
 tell what size tires will fit under it. The 26 would stand for the size 
 wheel that the fender is made for. So, 700 x 45, or 26 x 50, or 650b x 40, 
 etc.
  

Somebody correct me if I am wrong. 

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[RBW] Re: Front fender mount on Blue Sams - how to?



 Since no mounting hole under the fork, I hope to use the front of fork 
 method, like in the longboard installation vid.
 It worked great on my Bleriot that way with the 650b wheels.
 Though I wonder would a daruma help the front end of the fender to hug the 
 contour of the tire better than the front fork mount method (seems to rise 
 away no matter how I adjust it). Something to fool around with some time.


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[RBW] Re: Force Field Fatty Rumpkins