Re: [RBW] Rear fender mounting. Was: Christmas Clementine

2016-01-04 Thread Steve Palincsar

That setup is Crocodile Dundee-worthy:  "Now /that/ is a spacer..."

On 01/03/2016 04:39 PM, Anton Tutter wrote:

Not much to add here, but did anyone say spacers?

Here's how I achieved an acceptable fender line on my Bike Friday. The 
kickstand plate had a threaded bore for a fender mount but you could 
park a Cadillac in the space between it and the fender.


Anton
velolumino.com







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Re: [RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread Patrick Moore
In the 45 years since I built my first bike from scratch at age 15, I
learned very thoroughly that moving a bar or saddle back or forth 1/2" -- a
full cm -- *can* make a huge difference in the fit and feel of a bike! I
find that with such a change I have to adjust other things to compensate;
as, when moving the saddle forward, my legs want the saddle raised a bit,
and so forth.

I recently relented, due to no doubt to age-related strain on the aft thigh
muscle in my left leg, and moved my Flites about 3 mm forward from
absolute, rubber mallet-impacted, rearmost position (I should have listened
to Grant and had my frames built with 72* angles, not 73*) and I
immediately felt a difference (and a good one). I did not change the bar
position, which feels just as good now as before; so not every such change
demands compensation. But a full cm is very certainly often noticeable!


On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 1:36 PM, Will  wrote:

> Which is why I originally suggested moving the seat forward slightly and
> going to a shorter stem to mitigate that long top tube.
>
> We're talking moving the rider mass forward about 1/2" via seat
> adjustment, and reducing arm extention by an additional inch via going from
> 7cm stem to 5cm stem. These are typical adjustments everyone makes to
> fine-tune a cockpit. And they balance. His body position will be less
> stretched, so his shoulders/head will be very slightly higher, but his
> weight shift between the axles is negligable.
>
> If we were moving 3-4 inches, I'd agree with you. But these are really
> minor tweaks... and worth exploring, since the alternative is a bike with
> less tire and fender clearance.
>
> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 12:28:29 PM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>>
>> Hi Will,
>> Among other things, stem length changes weight distribution. This can
>> change the handling of a bike.
>>
>> Dirt drop stems (at least the ones sold by Riv) are not very short: 8cm
>> or 10cm. They do go up high.
>>
>> I'd recommend trying to raise the bars a few cms and see how that goes.
>>
>> shoji
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:16:17 PM UTC-5, Will wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm not sure how shorter stems hamper handling. I've used long stems on
>>> smaller frames and shorter stems on larger frames, both worked fine.
>>>
>>> Steering a bike, as we all know, works mostly by rotating the front
>>> wheel a couple of inches and leaning a bit. It's hard to see how a 7cm vs
>>> 5cm stem changes that level of rotation or weight balance. Riv frames have
>>> long top tubes. GP suggests using dirt drop stems for long tube mitigation.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 12:17:07 AM UTC-6, Donald Funke wrote:

 Great ideas from all! I will be doing a pro fitting later this spring.
 Maybe I'm just being fussy. I look at what other have done brevets on and I
 guess I can give it a go with just about any bike. I'll try the brake hood
 adjustment. The tape is getting dirty anyway. Going with a shorter stem
 hampers the handling a bit. For the fenders: I got tired of futzing with my
 honjos, trying to make them fit over the 38mm tires. I don't like the look
 of the SKS fender mounts so I used honjo fender mounts on sks longboards.
 I drilled out the sks mounting brackets leaving the rivets. Now  no rattle
 and they protect as well as the honjos. I admit they still don't look as
 cool as the honjos.

 On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I
> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm
> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the 
> geometry
> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it
> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent
> condition BTW.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

2016-01-04 Thread cyclotourist
What Zed said. These are great locks. I have one mounted on my
Quickbeam, and use it with the chain attachment at library, groceries,
even occasionally at the movies.

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 1:12 PM, Zed Martinez  wrote:
> They're just easy deterrent in low-theft areas if used as a primary lock. By
> themselves they're good for quick stops, like Mark said. Add a cable and
> lock it through with the bolt and you have a way to deter truck-bed thefts
> in low risk areas, too. I use mine a lot as a secondary lock when I'm going
> into places for a while. Wheel lock for quick stops in low-risk areas,
> u-lock for normal city locking, and u-lock plus wheel lock and sometimes a
> small cable through my bags for longer city lock-ups.
>
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:47:27 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Are these meant to keep the bike from being stolen, or just the wheel?
>> Seems like someone could just toss the bike in their truck and go, or lift
>> the bike from the saddle and roll it away.
>
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"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread William R.
I mean Patrick! Dang. I was thinking Dave originally mentioned the Icons.

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread Donald Funke
Also 7cm is the shortest stem I could find.

On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
> condition BTW. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
Another aspect of "sponginess" that one should check for is brake pad 
contact angle. While brake squeals can be attenuated by a bit of toe-in, 
one should ensure that there isn't too much toe-in *and* the vertical 
alignment of the pads is good. Specifically, ensure that the entire pad 
contacts the rim and not just the top or bottom pad (this adjustment aspect 
is 90° from the toe-in). One can easily verify this by examining the pads 
after a little use; good adjustment means the pad has rub marks top to 
bottom, on the front section of the pad. Of course, with enough wear, all 
brake pads will become optimally adjusted. :)

On the newer cantilever brakes that uses the "V-brake type mounting" (such 
as on the Paul brakes), this adjustment can easily be done by actuating the 
brakes semi-forcefully while the pad mounting nuts are tightened. 
Cantilever brakes that use pads with the "smooth post" are a little more 
challenging to get right.


On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:29:55 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote:
>
> Direct facing photos of both front and rear would be useful !  
> This may help :  
> http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-cyclocross-gravelbiking/722673-cantilver-brake-faq.html
>
> I suspect and adjustment of the straddle wire would help. The basic 
> straddle carriers are wonderful as they are much more flexible in setup. 
> I've found any of the fixed ones are too limiting. Also, detach the 
> straddle cable from the brake and hold it down at the carrier with one 
> hand, and activate the brake with the other, it should feel smooth and 
> without resistance. Cables and their routing angles all play a part in this 
> and a resistance-free setup here is the foundation for any brake performing 
> at it's best. 
>
> A higher priced brakes is no more of a gauge of quality of braking than 
> mid or even lower priced ones. Setup and pads are everything !  My favorite 
> brakes are still the 80's post style cantilever Shimano or Suntour .  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread David Stein
Thanks for the advice all. I think I'll go back to the 26" rims to get the
brake pads lowered and in a better position on the rim (also a good excuse
to get some Rat Trap Passes!) and then rely on a LBS for adjustments if
need be (any recommendations for a mechanic in Oakland? I've been using
Hank and Frank on College Ave just for proximity to my house).

If I still feel I need something after that I'll then take a look at Paul
Touring or Campy canti's, or possibly Motolites. If anyone has any
experience running Motolites on a Hunq with wide tires and also racks let
me know!

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:06 AM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
wrote:

> Another aspect of "sponginess" that one should check for is brake pad
> contact angle. While brake squeals can be attenuated by a bit of toe-in,
> one should ensure that there isn't too much toe-in *and* the vertical
> alignment of the pads is good. Specifically, ensure that the entire pad
> contacts the rim and not just the top or bottom pad (this adjustment aspect
> is 90° from the toe-in). One can easily verify this by examining the pads
> after a little use; good adjustment means the pad has rub marks top to
> bottom, on the front section of the pad. Of course, with enough wear, all
> brake pads will become optimally adjusted. :)
>
> On the newer cantilever brakes that uses the "V-brake type mounting" (such
> as on the Paul brakes), this adjustment can easily be done by actuating the
> brakes semi-forcefully while the pad mounting nuts are tightened.
> Cantilever brakes that use pads with the "smooth post" are a little more
> challenging to get right.
>
>
>
> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:29:55 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote:
>>
>> Direct facing photos of both front and rear would be useful !
>> This may help :
>> http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-cyclocross-gravelbiking/722673-cantilver-brake-faq.html
>>
>> I suspect and adjustment of the straddle wire would help. The basic
>> straddle carriers are wonderful as they are much more flexible in setup.
>> I've found any of the fixed ones are too limiting. Also, detach the
>> straddle cable from the brake and hold it down at the carrier with one
>> hand, and activate the brake with the other, it should feel smooth and
>> without resistance. Cables and their routing angles all play a part in this
>> and a resistance-free setup here is the foundation for any brake performing
>> at it's best.
>>
>> A higher priced brakes is no more of a gauge of quality of braking than
>> mid or even lower priced ones. Setup and pads are everything !  My favorite
>> brakes are still the 80's post style cantilever Shimano or Suntour .
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Christmas Goggles!

2016-01-04 Thread Patrick Moore
I'm curious: I don't ride below the high teens, but I did live in Quebec
City for 5 years and have been out x-country skiing and running at
temperatures well below 0*F -- skiing at -20*F on one breezy, sunny day
that I recall when I wore my fur trimmed parka (that was too warm over just
a shirt at anything above 32*F). Am I right in thinking that the long, fur
trimmed hoods that extend well beyond your nose keep a little layer of
body-warmed air against your face?

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 9:53 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Thanks, Tim. I just breathe through my nose only, so that greatly
> simplifies the challenge. But covering the nose without covering the
> nostrils does become necessary at -20˚F (actual or windchill) and below, in
> my experience as any exposed skin is going to be in trouble at those temps
> very quickly.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:07:31 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>
>> Just getting caught up on emails after the break, sorry for the tardy
>> reply.
>>
>> But I wanted to add, for Deacon and other goggle-wearers.
>>
>> There is a product called the Pinch 
>> that attaches to the bottom of your goggles to protect your cheeks and
>> nose.  It is made in Canada so shipping is a pain, but it's a very simple
>> design (some fleece and three velcro tabs) so you could probably fashion a
>> homebuilt facsimile.
>>
>> I love this product, because it allows me to wear a scarf/Buff/necktube
>> to cover my chin, cheeks, and ears, but leave my mouth open for heavy
>> exertion.  Any time I cover my mouth, even with a vented mask, the inside
>> of the mask gets soaked from my breath.  With the Pinch and a wool neck
>> tube, I can ride for hours in 0 degree F.
>>
>> And now I'm going out riding.  (4.5" studded tires in 20 degree weather)
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Tim
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 26, 2015 at 9:51 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>
>>> Caradhras, Ron. Caradhras. Grin. I'm rather a Middle Earth misnomer, so
>>> your puzzlement is justified. I've enough hair on my usually bare feet to
>>> be a hobbit, but I'm 6'-2" with a dwarvish or Gandolphian beard, and my
>>> kids tell me I'm a smart aleck theologian like Gandalf, so I'll let you
>>> figure it out from there!
>>>
>>> Bizarrely, that picture has been explored. There's no figuring how that
>>> works.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, December 25, 2015 at 7:49:26 PM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 I didn't know it got blustry in Middle Earth - are you sure you're not
 a dwarf?

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[RBW] FS: 26"/559mm Wheelset - Alex Rims & Shimano Hubs - $100 plus shipping

2016-01-04 Thread David Banzer
iBOB crosspost...

I built these up for a bike, a Trek 850 that I sold to a list member. I 
used these for a few commutes - probably about 100 miles on them.

Photos in CL ad: http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bop/5387390320.html

Includes:
Alex DM18 Double-Wall Aluminum Rims - drilled for Schrader, I'll include 
Presta adapters if you'd like them
36 Sapim double-butted stainless steel spokes per wheel
Shimano Sora Hubs - 100mm/130mm spacing - rear freehub, takes 8/9/10-speed 
cassette (no cassette included)
Shimano Quick-Release Skewers.

All parts were purchased new.

$100 for wheelset - option for tires and tubes below:

Geax Mezcal II Tires - 26x2.3" - measure about 58mm actual - and presta 
tubes.
Add $30 for tires and tubes included with wheelset and will also include an 
additional pair of Geax tires that I started shaving the knobbies off of to 
make a lightweight supple slick tire - I caught the 26" bug during the 
pre-Rat Trap Pass anticipation.

Wheels are in Chicago, can ship at actual cost, most likely via Bike 
Flights.
So, $100 for just wheels, $130 with tires/tubes/shaved-tire-
experiment.

Paypal Personal (or regular and cover fees) please.
Thanks,
David
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread Dave C
On packed snow or thin powder, my 2.1" Nanos have been sufficient, with no 
loss of traction. In fact, the long ride I had a couple weeks ago on the 
Nanos had no slipping except on ice.

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 10:05:56 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I switched back to my 2.1” Thunder Burts yesterday (returning after 3 
> miles to do so) from my Smart Sams because the TB’s are so smooth, the SS’s 
> so stiff my head hurt on the frozen rumble pack of a trail. 
>
> I know Mark R. prefers a knobbier tire, but at least in the conditions 
> I’ve ridden so far this winter (12” powder- full ranger of snow pack, 
> slush, loose flower pack, etc, sometimes on the same ride depending on sun 
> exposure), temps from 40’s to -10˚F, the TB’s have takes it all well. 
>
> I run them at 20 psi. Of course YMMV. Grin. The important thing is being 
> stupid enough to get out there. I’ve got that covered! Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread Patrick Moore
You said "Deacon and Patrick" and not "Deacon Patrick," so I assume you
meant to include me.

I've not used the Thunder Burts. I've used the Furious Freds, which I think
are close in tread and casing perhaps with even smaller knobs, though
narrower, I think, and those roll very well on pavement. They replaced
smooth tread and wider but much heavier Big Apple Liteskins, and I think
the FFs roll better than the smooth BAs. Note that the BAs were run with
tubes, the FFs tubeless. They certainly provide a bit of grip on mildly
slippery surfaces.

FWIW, the Maxxis Ikons also roll quite well on pavement for tires with true
knobs; I've certainly ridden more sluggish tires. I put this down largely
to their supple casing and the fact that they are run tubeless.

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 1:51 PM, William R.  wrote:

> Hi Deacon and Patrick: what do you think of the Thunder Burts as a mixed
> terrain tire on pavement to get to the dirt roads and trails? Nothing too
> technical, mostly smooth packed dirt. I'm talking 5-10 miles on the road
> and mixed use paths to get there though. Are they a buzzy compromise there
> or does their light weight and suppleness have them feeling fast on
> pavement? I'm trying to decide what to outfit my Appaloosa with when it
> comes. I'm thinking all over the place from Big Bens (fast on pavement, but
> heavier and less supple) to the liteskin TBs maxing out the width around
> 55mm.
>
> Bill in finally some seasonable cold but no snow yet Westchester, NY
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread Toshi Takeuchi
I have an AHH (650b) and Ram.  The Ram was converted to a 650b with 42 mm
Hetre tires.  I highly recommend the conversion and would buy a Ram for
that purpose.  I have done 600k brevets on both the Ram and AHH.  I think
having a 700c Ram vs 700c AHH would be almost a wash and not worth the
trouble.  If you want to notice a real difference then go for a Roadeo,
which is definitely quicker than the Ram and AHH.

Toshi

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Steve Palincsar



On 01/03/2016 07:49 PM, Brian Campbell wrote:
I have had Paul Canti's (Neo Retro & touring) as well as Paul Racer 
Centerpulls. None (in my opinion) stop as well as a set Shimano XTR V 
brakes I am using on a 1989 Trek mountain bike. The V brakes were much 
easier to set up and adjust. Again, all opinion, but opinion borne 
from actual experience. I would not, willingly, use cantilever brakes 
again.




Presumably you are using these with mountain bike brake levers?


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[RBW] FS: Custom Bag Queue Open.

2016-01-04 Thread David Banzer
Happy New Year!

I closed my queue before the holidays so I could spend some time with 
family without working on bags. I'm opening my queue for custom and 
standard bag orders. I have a couple custom spots available for end of 
January delivery, then February spots are open.
Standard bag designs are also available - for now in olive green and black 
made of water-repellent #8 cotton duck canvas. My current photos in the 
webstore will be updated shortly. I'm aiming to offer a few revamped 
standard designs come spring time.
These are usually made to order unless I build up a ready-made inventory 
and take usually 2 weeks to shipping point, rando bags a little longer.

For custom bags, contact me directly at daban...@gmail.com.
For standard bags that are currently available, order through my webstore: 
treetop.bigcartel.com.

Finally, a big thanks to folks who have let me make bags for them. This has 
been a huge learning experience, and I continue to learn and hone my skills 
with each bag I make.

Thanks,
David
Chicago
treetop.bigcartel.com
treetopbags.blogspot.com

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread Patrick Moore
My Maxxis Ikons do quite well in 4 newly fallen inches (it's all gone now,
alas). They have a bit more tread than the TBs, but their knobs aren't
huge. 56 mm wide, ~20 to 25 psi, tubeless.

It would be fun to try 12" ...

Patrick Moore, hoping we get at least one more good snowfall this winter in
ABQ, NM

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:05 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> I switched back to my 2.1” Thunder Burts yesterday (returning after 3
> miles to do so) from my Smart Sams because the TB’s are so smooth, the SS’s
> so stiff my head hurt on the frozen rumble pack of a trail.
>
> I know Mark R. prefers a knobbier tire, but at least in the conditions
> I’ve ridden so far this winter (12” powder- full ranger of snow pack,
> slush, loose flower pack, etc, sometimes on the same ride depending on sun
> exposure), temps from 40’s to -10˚F, the TB’s have takes it all well.
>
> I run them at 20 psi. Of course YMMV. Grin. The important thing is being
> stupid enough to get out there. I’ve got that covered! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.OurHolyConception.org
>
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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread William R.
Hi Deacon and Patrick: what do you think of the Thunder Burts as a mixed 
terrain tire on pavement to get to the dirt roads and trails? Nothing too 
technical, mostly smooth packed dirt. I'm talking 5-10 miles on the road 
and mixed use paths to get there though. Are they a buzzy compromise there 
or does their light weight and suppleness have them feeling fast on 
pavement? I'm trying to decide what to outfit my Appaloosa with when it 
comes. I'm thinking all over the place from Big Bens (fast on pavement, but 
heavier and less supple) to the liteskin TBs maxing out the width around 
55mm.

Bill in finally some seasonable cold but no snow yet Westchester, NY

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Re: [RBW] FS: Custom Bag Queue Open.

2016-01-04 Thread Patrick Moore
I own or have owned or shortly will own (God willing) 6 or 7 Banzer Bags (I
think I've owned 1 or 2 tan non-customers that I later sold or traded off);
and when my next 2 are delivered, shortly I hope, all my 5 bikes will have
them, with customs for the gofast, the Fargo-replacement, and for the Dahon
Hon Solo (this one a small tubular bar bag).

Highly recommended.

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 12:00 PM, David Banzer  wrote:

> Happy New Year!
>
> I closed my queue before the holidays so I could spend some time with
> family without working on bags. I'm opening my queue for custom and
> standard bag orders. I have a couple custom spots available for end of
> January delivery, then February spots are open.
> Standard bag designs are also available - for now in olive green and black
> made of water-repellent #8 cotton duck canvas. My current photos in the
> webstore will be updated shortly. I'm aiming to offer a few revamped
> standard designs come spring time.
> These are usually made to order unless I build up a ready-made inventory
> and take usually 2 weeks to shipping point, rando bags a little longer.
>
> For custom bags, contact me directly at daban...@gmail.com.
> For standard bags that are currently available, order through my webstore:
> treetop.bigcartel.com.
>
> Finally, a big thanks to folks who have let me make bags for them. This
> has been a huge learning experience, and I continue to learn and hone my
> skills with each bag I make.
>
> Thanks,
> David
> Chicago
> treetop.bigcartel.com
> treetopbags.blogspot.com
>
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circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities
revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Brian Campbell
The Paul brakes were all set up on road bikes, using road bike levers. The 
V brakes are using V-brake specific levers. 

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 3:01:55 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 01/03/2016 07:49 PM, Brian Campbell wrote: 
> > I have had Paul Canti's (Neo Retro & touring) as well as Paul Racer 
> > Centerpulls. None (in my opinion) stop as well as a set Shimano XTR V 
> > brakes I am using on a 1989 Trek mountain bike. The V brakes were much 
> > easier to set up and adjust. Again, all opinion, but opinion borne 
> > from actual experience. I would not, willingly, use cantilever brakes 
> > again. 
> > 
>
> Presumably you are using these with mountain bike brake levers? 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

2016-01-04 Thread Chad
I sent you a private message.  Beautiful bike!

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread John Hawrylak
Nitto Techonomic are available down to 50mm stem length, see 

http://www.benscycle.com/p-2515-nitto-technomic-quill-stem.aspx

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:42:34 PM UTC-5, Donald Funke wrote:

> Also 7cm is the shortest stem I could find.
>
> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
>> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
>> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
>> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
>> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
>> condition BTW. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

2016-01-04 Thread Zed Martinez
They're just easy deterrent in low-theft areas if used as a primary lock. 
By themselves they're good for quick stops, like Mark said. Add a cable and 
lock it through with the bolt and you have a way to deter truck-bed thefts 
in low risk areas, too. I use mine a lot as a secondary lock when I'm going 
into places for a while. Wheel lock for quick stops in low-risk areas, 
u-lock for normal city locking, and u-lock plus wheel lock and sometimes a 
small cable through my bags for longer city lock-ups.

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:47:27 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Are these meant to keep the bike from being stolen, or just the wheel?
> Seems like someone could just toss the bike in their truck and go, or lift 
> the bike from the saddle and roll it away.

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread Will
Which is why I originally suggested moving the seat forward slightly and 
going to a shorter stem to mitigate that long top tube.

We're talking moving the rider mass forward about 1/2" via seat adjustment, 
and reducing arm extention by an additional inch via going from 7cm stem to 
5cm stem. These are typical adjustments everyone makes to fine-tune a 
cockpit. And they balance. His body position will be less stretched, so his 
shoulders/head will be very slightly higher, but his weight shift between 
the axles is negligable. 

If we were moving 3-4 inches, I'd agree with you. But these are really 
minor tweaks... and worth exploring, since the alternative is a bike with 
less tire and fender clearance. 

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 12:28:29 PM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> Hi Will,
> Among other things, stem length changes weight distribution. This can 
> change the handling of a bike.
>
> Dirt drop stems (at least the ones sold by Riv) are not very short: 8cm or 
> 10cm. They do go up high.
>
> I'd recommend trying to raise the bars a few cms and see how that goes.
>
> shoji
>
>
>
> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:16:17 PM UTC-5, Will wrote:
>>
>> I'm not sure how shorter stems hamper handling. I've used long stems on 
>> smaller frames and shorter stems on larger frames, both worked fine. 
>>
>> Steering a bike, as we all know, works mostly by rotating the front wheel 
>> a couple of inches and leaning a bit. It's hard to see how a 7cm vs 5cm 
>> stem changes that level of rotation or weight balance. Riv frames have long 
>> top tubes. GP suggests using dirt drop stems for long tube mitigation. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 12:17:07 AM UTC-6, Donald Funke wrote:
>>>
>>> Great ideas from all! I will be doing a pro fitting later this spring. 
>>> Maybe I'm just being fussy. I look at what other have done brevets on and I 
>>> guess I can give it a go with just about any bike. I'll try the brake hood 
>>> adjustment. The tape is getting dirty anyway. Going with a shorter stem 
>>> hampers the handling a bit. For the fenders: I got tired of futzing with my 
>>> honjos, trying to make them fit over the 38mm tires. I don't like the look 
>>> of the SKS fender mounts so I used honjo fender mounts on sks longboards. 
>>>  I drilled out the sks mounting brackets leaving the rivets. Now  no rattle 
>>> and they protect as well as the honjos. I admit they still don't look as 
>>> cool as the honjos.
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:

 I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
 have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
 Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the 
 geometry 
 is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
 does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
 condition BTW. 

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread William R.
Yes, I meant both of you! Thanks for the feedback. I will check out the 
Icons too Dave.

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[RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

2016-01-04 Thread MartyG
Will have to confirm the SOH later in the week as I'm remote from the bike 
shed at the moment, but the following spec sheet listed 31-3/4" along with 
all the other relevant dimensions. Now that I re-read this myself, 38s plus 
fenders may be tight, but 35s + are no issue. I tested SKSs with the 
current tires (35s) and there was plenty of wiggle room. Don't be shy 
making a reasonable offer - these don't come along very often. 

 http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/rivendell.pdf


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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Kurt Manley
I think you should try lengthening your straddle cable and making sure the 
pads don't have too much toe in. Sounds like you have too much mechanical 
advantage or the pads are flexing/rotating as they hit the rim from too 
much toe. If that doesn't work you could take it to Riv or if you want to 
stay in Oakland talk to Daniel at Montano Velo on Piedmont Ave. Either one 
could get the canti's working good. The 650b thing probably makes things a 
bit trickier as you're moving the pad away from the fulcrum which will need 
more lever travel as well.

Another good option would be to get some of the tektro drop levers that are 
designed for v brakes and get a set of v brakes for it. They don't need to 
be Pauls. I have cheapo Avid sd-7 v brakes on my proto-hunq and they work 
very well and are super easy to set up. That is, as long as they have 
enough vertical adjustment for the 650b conversion. Mini v's that would 
work with your current levers would limit the tire size. I run a 2.4 with 
the Avid brakes.

If it was me I'd do straddle cable and if it didn't work I'd get v brakes. 
Canti's do work great but are a lot of work to set up and keep adjusted 
properly. I really like v brakes. Switching from CX-70 canti's to Paul 
canti's wouldn't do much in my opinion. 



On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 2:07:30 PM UTC-8, dstein wrote:
>
> I have the CX70 brakes with kool stop salmon pads on my 26" hunq (which is 
> currently running a 650b wheelset with the brake pads all the way at the 
> top position) and the brakes have always felt too squishy to me, even just 
> after picking the bike up new from Rivendell, and it certainly hasn't help 
> that I've fiddled with them so much over time. 
>
> Would V brakes like the Motolite or Minimoto work on the cantiliver 
> bosses? They seem to get very positive reviews. Clearance seems to be an 
> issue. Or would Paul Touring Canti or Neo Rretro brakes make more sense for 
> this frame and wheelset/tire choices (and if so is there really an 
> advantage of Paul canti's vs. the Shimano's)?  
>
> I'm using Shimano road brake levers on Albastache bars. 650b x 42mm 
> compass tires, though I am thinking of going with the  rat trap passes and 
> going back to the 26" wheelset.
>
> Or can someone school me in how get my CX70's nice and tight so I don't 
> need to look at other options (I've tried a LBS for adjustments and that 
> didn't seem to help).
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: White Industries, Velocity 700C Wheelset

2016-01-04 Thread Johnny Alien
Sorryit sold so I removed the posting.

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:29:58 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>
> Could you repost original offer?
>
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2016, at 7:59 PM, Johnny Alien  > wrote:
>
> Anyone interested at $270 shipped?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

2016-01-04 Thread islaysteve
The more I read about these, the more I just shake my head...
   "Hi, I'm Steve,and I'm an indexaholic!"

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread William R.
Thanks for those glowing endorsements of the T-Burts. I don't intend to ride 
them in the snow. No issues there. Great photos Deacon! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread Patrick Moore
110%+ agreement here! From the discussion, I get the impression that the
OP's frame is simply too big.

Slight Segway: My experience with 5 different Rivendells (I still own 2,
both customs) is that one great signature virtue of the breed is the
comfort -- ie, the comfort that comes from a frame allowing just the right
postion. As I was riding the gofast yesterday, well warmed up from
climbing, I was struck again for the 10 billionth time in coming up to 17
years for this frame how "just right" it feels: butt back, back bent but
not too much, arms relaxed, hands lightly gripping hoods, powerful stroke
over the pedal top dead center ... And this is matched by the unerring
handling.

FWIW, Segway (tm) #2: the new Compass Elk Pass Tires are the perfect tire
for the perfect frame.

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 3:25 PM, Will  wrote:

>
>
> I still don't see how moving the saddle within the narrow range Brooks
> gives us, or changing to a slightly shorter stem IS WORSE than the lack of
> comfort the OP has now.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Matthew J
> The Paul brakes were all set up on road bikes, using road bike levers. 
The V brakes are using V-brake specific levers. 

I have had good luck matching the Paul Min-Vs with Campagnolo Record MTB 
Flat Bar levers which I believe were made for a year or two in the early 
'90s.  The modern MTB levers I tried did not work well.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Brewster Fong

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:32:52 PM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > The Paul brakes were all set up on road bikes, using road bike levers. 
> The V brakes are using V-brake specific levers. 
>
> I have had good luck matching the Paul Min-Vs with Campagnolo Record MTB 
> Flat Bar levers which I believe were made for a year or two in the early 
> '90s.  The modern MTB levers I tried did not work well.
>
 
Yes, mini-v brakes, which were originally designed for BMX bikes, work 
great with road levers!  On my cross bike, I used a cheapie Tektro 926al 
mini-v brake (under $20) with my Campy ergo levers and it was far superior 
to the crappy Suntour xc pro canti brake that I had on there. It was like 
night and day! No more squealing, shuddering or vibration of any sort. 
 
I heard from a friend who writes for a cx rag that the Paul minimoto mini-v 
brake is arguably the best non-disc brake in dry conditions. Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread masmojo
90% of the time if your brakes are "squishy" or lack feel, you are using the 
wrong lever, incorrect housing,  or the are not adjusted properly. 
Most road bike levers for caliper or cantilevers won't work on V brakes or disc 
brakes. 
I have Paul levers on 4 bikes and I have the Touring cantis on my Clementine. I 
like them fine, but I am not sure if they are better than my favorite brake, 
the XTR  cantilevers. I am running them with the Tektro FL750 levers which 
worked like crap with V brakes (even though I have seen numerous bikes with V 
brakes running them!?) The Pauls work great with these levers!
Hope that helps!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

2016-01-04 Thread masmojo
I agree that someone over 6'7" & with long legs,  probably would be at the 
extreme limit of what A Clem is designed for,  but I have a friend who is 6'4 
with long legs, he rode my medium with the seat & bars raised as much as I 
could and really had a blast! He did not complain about the size at all & I am 
sure he would be very happy with a large Clem. Should he want one.

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
I suspect in ice like that, I would be on Ice Spikers too!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 3:25:06 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> For the Northeast, however, the Burts suck as a winter tire (I did use 
> them successfully through a Colorado winter, however). Too much ice and, 
> despite the relatively soft rubber of the Burts, they just can't hold on. 
> So for winter duties on dirt roads of northern VT, in temps ranging from 40 
> to -15 degrees F, I switch to Ice Spiker Pros on my Hunq. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Coming in a bit late to the thread, I realize...

Finding someone in most shops who actually knows how to adjust canti's is 
not easy.  Look for the greybeard silverback most-ent-like denizen.  

As Benz points out - if you have removed gaps or seating issues in the 
housing so that there's no slack - squishy actually means you have more 
power.  That "hard" brake feeling - or "pukka-pukka" as it's sometimes 
technically referred to - means that you are doing all the work at the 
lever because you have less power.  

I've always pointed folks to the Sheldon Brown articles - 

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html

and with some trial and error (if you want to put the time in) you can gain 
an understanding of the beast.  Since linear-pull brakes and disc brakes 
eclipsed their use on mtbs, it's not a bad skill to have.  

- Jim
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Christmas Goggles!

2016-01-04 Thread Matthew J
I use this Empire Wool and Canvas Snowshoe Anorak 
on real cold rides and 
hikes.  No fur trim on mine but it does an excellent job keeping my face 
warm.

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 2:29:30 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'm curious: I don't ride below the high teens, but I did live in Quebec 
> City for 5 years and have been out x-country skiing and running at 
> temperatures well below 0*F -- skiing at -20*F on one breezy, sunny day 
> that I recall when I wore my fur trimmed parka (that was too warm over just 
> a shirt at anything above 32*F). Am I right in thinking that the long, fur 
> trimmed hoods that extend well beyond your nose keep a little layer of 
> body-warmed air against your face?
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 9:53 AM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Tim. I just breathe through my nose only, so that greatly 
>> simplifies the challenge. But covering the nose without covering the 
>> nostrils does become necessary at -20˚F (actual or windchill) and below, in 
>> my experience as any exposed skin is going to be in trouble at those temps 
>> very quickly.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:07:31 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>>
>>> Just getting caught up on emails after the break, sorry for the tardy 
>>> reply.
>>>
>>> But I wanted to add, for Deacon and other goggle-wearers.  
>>>
>>> There is a product called the Pinch  
>>> that attaches to the bottom of your goggles to protect your cheeks and 
>>> nose.  It is made in Canada so shipping is a pain, but it's a very simple 
>>> design (some fleece and three velcro tabs) so you could probably fashion a 
>>> homebuilt facsimile.
>>>
>>> I love this product, because it allows me to wear a scarf/Buff/necktube 
>>> to cover my chin, cheeks, and ears, but leave my mouth open for heavy 
>>> exertion.  Any time I cover my mouth, even with a vented mask, the inside 
>>> of the mask gets soaked from my breath.  With the Pinch and a wool neck 
>>> tube, I can ride for hours in 0 degree F.
>>>
>>> And now I'm going out riding.  (4.5" studded tires in 20 degree weather)
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Sat, Dec 26, 2015 at 9:51 AM, Deacon Patrick  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Caradhras, Ron. Caradhras. Grin. I'm rather a Middle Earth misnomer, so 
 your puzzlement is justified. I've enough hair on my usually bare feet to 
 be a hobbit, but I'm 6'-2" with a dwarvish or Gandolphian beard, and my 
 kids tell me I'm a smart aleck theologian like Gandalf, so I'll let you 
 figure it out from there!

 Bizarrely, that picture has been explored. There's no figuring how that 
 works.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Friday, December 25, 2015 at 7:49:26 PM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I didn't know it got blustry in Middle Earth - are you sure you're not 
> a dwarf?  
>
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>>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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To 

Re: [RBW] Re: Christmas Goggles!

2016-01-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
Yes, that's the concept, Patrick. That concepts works great until the wind 
(natural or bike generated) is direct into your face. If snowing/blowing at 
the same time, that melts on the skin and rapidly drop the skin temp.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:29:30 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Am I right in thinking that the long, fur trimmed hoods that extend well 
> beyond your nose keep a little layer of body-warmed air against your face?
>

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[RBW] Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

2016-01-04 Thread masmojo
Not meant to stop someone from toting the bike off, only the opportunistic 
thief whose tired of walking & thinks hoping on your conveniently placed bike 
looks appealing!
One of the good things about the Clementine being rather large & unwieldy is it 
discourages the casual bike thief! ;-)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

2016-01-04 Thread masmojo
If falls somewhere in between friction & index; if you are used to friction,  
these will be easy to like! If you are used to the no nonsense, right every 
time kind of thing you get with index shifting, it's going to be more of a 
harsh adjustment. 
I took my Clementine to a bike shop for them to a scope out/ride and they 
seemed to love them, which surprised me a little; they especially liked the 
inside the bar placement & raved about how "iintuitive" the whole set-up was!

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread Daniel Jackson
I will second Deacon's take on the Burts as the PERFECT occasional paved 
road to full time dirt road tire. That's what I use them here for in the 
upper reaches of VT where pavement is the exception to the dirt road rule. 
We don't have pavement ends signs; rather, pavement begins. 

For the Northeast, however, the Burts suck as a winter tire (I did use them 
successfully through a Colorado winter, however). Too much ice and, despite 
the relatively soft rubber of the Burts, they just can't hold on. So for 
winter duties on dirt roads of northern VT, in temps ranging from 40 to -15 
degrees F, I switch to Ice Spiker Pros on my Hunq. 

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 5:08:11 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> What you describe exactly matches this trip:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/albums/72157652026645308
>
> The first 35 miles of that are paved and chipseal, then dirt in it's many 
> and various glorious forms. The Thunder Burts 2.1" did brilliantly on all 
> of it, including slogging through the "peanut butter" mud, muck, and mire 
> post grater.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-7, William R. wrote:
>>
>> Hi Deacon and Patrick: what do you think of the Thunder Burts as a mixed 
>> terrain tire on pavement to get to the dirt roads and trails? Nothing too 
>> technical, mostly smooth packed dirt. I'm talking 5-10 miles on the road 
>> and mixed use paths to get there though. Are they a buzzy compromise there 
>> or does their light weight and suppleness have them feeling fast on 
>> pavement? I'm trying to decide what to outfit my Appaloosa with when it 
>> comes. I'm thinking all over the place from Big Bens (fast on pavement, but 
>> heavier and less supple) to the liteskin TBs maxing out the width around 
>> 55mm.
>>
>> Bill in finally some seasonable cold but no snow yet Westchester, NY
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-04 Thread El Sapo
Very cool bike. If it shares some ride characteristics with the Clem, I 
think the buyers are going to be extremely pleased. I'd want the bullmoose 
choco bars if I a choice. I think I saw it written as coming both w/stem 
and bullmoose in the info, maybe by design? 

On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 4:46:23 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:

> There's a thorough description of the Joe on the latest BLUG.  I 
> especially like the photo of the fist between the seat tube & the fender.  
> It also talks about where this bike fits into the line-up, between Sam & 
> Hunq, and differences with Atlantis.  Good stuff all around.  At $2,400 
> it's the deal of the yearand next year too.  
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
Super dense wool that's nearly windproof by itself. I rarely use nylon 
outer shells (ideally, ventile, but Hilltrek didn't offer those at the time 
I got my jacket)
http://www.sweatersintl.com/dachstein_mitts.html?_ga=1.102176321.1710840773.1424708904

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 7:55:49 PM UTC-7, R Michaels wrote:
>
> Can you expand on the boiled wool concept? 
>
> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 5:30:50 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> What is the temperature range you're looking for? Not pogies, but boiled 
>> wool with a nylon shell is good for me below -20˚F, and works for any time 
>> off the bike also.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 6:15:51 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>>
>>> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for 
>>> the albastache?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> D.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
What is the temperature range you're looking for? Not pogies, but boiled 
wool with a nylon shell is good for me below -20˚F, and works for any time 
off the bike also.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 6:15:51 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the 
> albastache?
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Steve Palincsar



On 01/04/2016 08:26 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Thank YOU for making me google the word "pogie".  I thought maybe it 
was a small Pirozhki
For others that like me, don't know, a Pogie is like a glove, except 
it also wraps around the grips of your handlebar.  So to grab the 
bars, you kind of insert your hand into the pogie, and in there is the 
grip of your bars, where you grab on. The pogie is a barrier that 
makes a little microclimate inside for your hand.




and definitely not to be confused with "pogey" (as in "pogey bait")...



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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Bill Lindsay
Thank YOU for making me google the word "pogie".  I thought maybe it was a 
small Pirozhki
For others that like me, don't know, a Pogie is like a glove, except it 
also wraps around the grips of your handlebar.  So to grab the bars, you 
kind of insert your hand into the pogie, and in there is the grip of your 
bars, where you grab on. The pogie is a barrier that makes a little 
microclimate inside for your hand.  

I do not know of a source for an albastache specific pogie

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 5:15:51 PM UTC-8, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the 
> albastache?
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>

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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
Clearly you live somewhere too warm, Bill. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 6:26:18 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Thank YOU for making me google the word "pogie".
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

2016-01-04 Thread Joe Bernard
To clarify for anyone at Riv reading this, I trust that the shifters work fine. 
My point was that some customers may never get past the explanation. 

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-04 Thread Bill Lindsay
My interpretation is that the production bikes will have Choco Bullmoose. The 
demo bike pictured in the BLUG just happens to have the separate bar plus stem. 

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Re: [RBW] Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

2016-01-04 Thread Jim Bronson
I don't know anything about the lock, but I ordered a bunch of tubes that
weren't available in the US from Starbike, worked out fine, had no problems
with them.  They use DHL for shipping and IIRC it took about 10 business
days for them to get to me, seems reasonable coming from another continent
on the slow boat.

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 9:40 AM, 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

>
> 
> The Clem(entines) feature braze-ons on the aft-facing portion of the
> seatstays for attaching a wheel lock. Rivendell may have briefly carried
> these, or planned to, I'm not sure. But they don't currently. And
> apparently neither does anyone else in the U.S.
>
>
> http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Locks/Frame-Locks/Amparo-4850
>
> http://www.starbike.com/en/abus-amparo-4850/
>
>
>
> I was thinking of ordering the lock from a German website, Starbike, if
> others have had a positive experience with this company. They have the
> locks for $18.21. But with the shipping minus VAT and the euro exchange, it
> comes to $45.  If two other Clemsters are interested, the total would be
> $82, for a cost of about $27 each. Assuming additional domestic shipping of
> max $8 (probably less) that would be $35, still a $10 savings (I would
> repackage and send out the locks via USPS). I am also assuming these will
> work with the Clem braze-on spacing (says "easy screwing to the threaded
> rear frame" in the catalog copy), but I will check with Rivendell tomorrow.
> If two Clems commit, I will collect via paypal after they arrive to me so I
> can calculate exact domestic shipping charges to you. (I don't want to deal
> with more than two, and the incentives start to dwindle after that anyway.)
> If there is interest, I will go with the first two to commit to paying up
> to the $35 (with the understanding I will confirm these locks will work
> with the bike setup and will order tomorrow).
>
> Note: This is the version in which the key CAN be removed when the lock is
> in the open position. The plus is an unauthorized person cannot lock up
> your wheel and make off with the key. The minus is you don't have the
> security of never forgetting to have your key. Anyway, they do not offer
> the other version.
>
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Re: [RBW] Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Chris Chen
I talked to the owner of Portland Pogies and she's made a bigger version
that should work rather well on the albastaches...check her out

portlandpogies.com

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 5:15 PM, Daniel Jackson <
daniel.seth.jack...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the
> albastache?
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>
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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread R Michaels
Can you expand on the boiled wool concept? 

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 5:30:50 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> What is the temperature range you're looking for? Not pogies, but boiled 
> wool with a nylon shell is good for me below -20˚F, and works for any time 
> off the bike also.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 6:15:51 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>
>> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the 
>> albastache?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> D.
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Swift Jr. Ranger Panniers Olive

2016-01-04 Thread dstein
Just posted this on local bay area craigslist as well. Bought this from the 
Swift ready made store this past summer and used on two overnighters. Like 
new. Decided to go with a hub area bag and large saddlesack instead. 

Out of stock online. 

$190 shipped.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Jim M.
On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 11:27:54 AM UTC-8, dstein wrote:
>
> (any recommendations for a mechanic in Oakland? I've been using Hank and 
> Frank on College Ave just for proximity to my house).
>
> Cyclesports on Grand has a mature mechanic (i.e., 50 or so) who knows his 
stuff. 

jim m
wc ca 

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[RBW] Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Daniel Jackson
Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the 
albastache?

Thanks,
D.

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-04 Thread Bill Lindsay
I don't know if it's been covered already, but this quote just sunk-in for 
me.  A new Nitto front rack made to fit the Joe-Crown.  That's hot!

*The crown is the new RC-06. The bolts on top fit a Tubus rear rack and 
some of the NITTO racks (a new one coming in Spring ‘16), and even without 
a rack, no problem, still looks good.*



On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 4:46:23 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:
>
> There's a thorough description of the Joe on the latest BLUG.  I 
> especially like the photo of the fist between the seat tube & the fender.  
> It also talks about where this bike fits into the line-up, between Sam & 
> Hunq, and differences with Atlantis.  Good stuff all around.  At $2,400 
> it's the deal of the yearand next year too.  
>
> dougP
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Steve Palincsar

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boiled_wool

On 01/04/2016 08:52 PM, R Michaels wrote:

Can you expand on the boiled wool concept?

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 5:30:50 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:

What is the temperature range you're looking for? Not pogies, but
boiled wool with a nylon shell is good for me below -20˚F, and
works for any time off the bike also.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 6:15:51 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:

Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works
well for the albastache?

Thanks,



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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Kainalu
How much wiggle room in those nice looking boiled wool mittens? Enough to 
stitch down the middle and lobsterize them? Mittens on bikes can be a pain in 
the butt, but mitts are a different story, all the warmth of naked neighboring 
fingers with two fingers on the brakes while the other two take care of 
handlebar holding. So, speedy stitcherable?
-Kai
Brooklyn NY 

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Philip Kim
Oh I've also used the Campy CX Cantilevers, as well.

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:18:00 AM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> Paul Motolite, in my experience, are hands down the best Paul Brakes (and 
> best rim brakes I've used). Currently have them on my VO Camargue and they 
> stop on a dime and have gobs of power. Takes some time with initial set up, 
> but afterwards very easy to adjust. Minimotos don't have the same 
> clearances as Motolites.
>
> Rim brakes I've used: Paul Touring Cantis, Paul Neo Retro Cantis, Paul 
> Racers, Shimano XT V-brake, Tektro CR720 w/ Kool Stop, Tektro 559's, 
> Shimano Ultegra Sidepulls
>
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 5:07:30 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>>
>> I have the CX70 brakes with kool stop salmon pads on my 26" hunq (which 
>> is currently running a 650b wheelset with the brake pads all the way at the 
>> top position) and the brakes have always felt too squishy to me, even just 
>> after picking the bike up new from Rivendell, and it certainly hasn't help 
>> that I've fiddled with them so much over time. 
>>
>> Would V brakes like the Motolite or Minimoto work on the cantiliver 
>> bosses? They seem to get very positive reviews. Clearance seems to be an 
>> issue. Or would Paul Touring Canti or Neo Rretro brakes make more sense for 
>> this frame and wheelset/tire choices (and if so is there really an 
>> advantage of Paul canti's vs. the Shimano's)?  
>>
>> I'm using Shimano road brake levers on Albastache bars. 650b x 42mm 
>> compass tires, though I am thinking of going with the  rat trap passes and 
>> going back to the 26" wheelset.
>>
>> Or can someone school me in how get my CX70's nice and tight so I don't 
>> need to look at other options (I've tried a LBS for adjustments and that 
>> didn't seem to help).
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: End of the year clean out.

2016-01-04 Thread boomer
Updated 1/4/16  6 AM Pacific Time.  *It's also "best offer time"*, 
especially if you combine items for easier shipping.  Photos in original 
post will, of course, show all of the items that were for sale.  Below is 
what's left.

Prices do not include shipping, but are* very negotiable*. Shipping with be 
with USPS Priority Mail for the loweer 48. Shipping will etiher be $6.00 
for small items, and $11 for larger items, or if items are combined. I'll 
respond with a shipping cost for you. Let me know if you'd like to see 
detailed pics (off line) of an item. 



   1. 
   
   Sugino XD2 crank set. 175mm, 46/36/26, crank bolts included, used for 
   about 10 miles, went with a different set up, $125
   2. 
   
   XLC Aero Brake levers, like new, $15
   3. 
   
   Tektro “RL 721” X-levers, levers, 31.8 mm, like new condition, $15
   4. 
   
   Carbon Fiber canti brakes, all hardware included, (one bike worth), $60
   5. 
   
   Empella “Frog Legs” canti brakes, all hardware except mounting bolts 
   included, (one bike worth), $50
   6. 
   
   Deore LX front derailleur (modern version), clamp with spacers, like 
   new, $30
   7. 
   
   San Marcos Rolls Regal Saddle, 131 x 280 mm, 370 gm, steel rail (copper 
   color), black textured leather, installation marks on rails, leather is 
   like new condition, no stretch, $75
   8. 
   
   Problem solvers, “Back Stop” 1&1/4 diameter, a pair of these for adding 
   cable stops to downtubes. $10
   
   

On Thursday, December 31, 2015 at 1:00:08 PM UTC-8, boomer wrote:
>
> Happy New Year! I need help cleaning out the parts bin.
>
> Prices do not include shipping, but are negotiable. Shipping with be with 
> USPS Priority Mail for the loweer 48. Shipping will etiher be $6.00 for 
> small items, and $11 for larger items, or if items are combined. I'll 
> respond with a shipping cost for you. Let me know if you'd like to see 
> detailed pics (off line) of an item. 
>
>
>
>1. 
>
>Sugino XD2 crank set. 175mm, 46/36/26, crank bolts included, used for 
>about 10 miles, went with a different set up, $125
>2. 
>
>Three (3) Shimano UN55 BB, 68x110 (two of these) and a 68x107, 
>installed once but not used, one cup is missing, all three for $10. Used 
>these to play around with chain alingment.
>3. 
>
>Sram 8 speed cassette, PG830, 11-32, brand new, $5
>4. 
>
>Vintage Deore LX rear derailleur, long cage, 8 speed, M567, back 
>compatable with 6/7 speed, $15
>5. 
>
>Vintage Deore LX front derailleur, M563, top pull 28.6 clamp, $10
>6. 
>
>Vintage Deore LX front derailleur, M561, top pull 34.8 clamp, $10
>7. 
>
>Vintage Deore XT rear derailleur, long cage, M739, 7 or 8 speed, blue 
>alloy pulley wheels, pristine condition, $25
>8. 
>
>Cane Creek Cross Stop X-levers, 31.8 mm, like new condition, $15
>9. 
>
>XLC Aero Brake levers, like new, $15
>10. 
>
>Tektro “RL 721” X-levers, levers, 31.8 mm, like new condition, $15
>11. 
>
>Carbon Fiber canti brakes, all hardware included, (one bike worth), $60
>12. 
>
>Paul Brakes Neo-Retro (one bike worth), extra pads, all hardware 
>included, $95
>13. 
>
>Empella “Frog Legs” canti brakes, all hardware except mounting bolts 
>included, (one bike worth), $50
>14. 
>
>IRD Cafam Canti (older version), all hardware, extra pads, one bike 
>worth, $40
>15. 
>
>Suntour Bar Cons, $15
>16. 
>
>Nitto threaded stem 120cm, no insertion marks, tiny mark on top, 25.4 
>clamp, $30
>17. 
>
>Gran Compe treaded stem 80 cm, insertion marks, 26 clamp, $30
>18. 
>
>Shimano Mt bike levers, some scratches, $15
>19. 
>
>Deore LX front derailleur (modern version), clamp with spacers, like 
>new, $30
>20. 
>
>San Marcos Rolls Regal Saddle, 131 x 280 mm, 370 gm, steel rail 
>(copper color), black textured leather, installation marks on rails, 
>leather is like new condition, no stretch, $75
>21. 
>
>Problem solvers, “Back Stop” 1&1/4 diameter, a pair of these for 
>adding cable stops to downtubes. $10
>
>
>If you've read this far, I have a double kick stand or a Banjo frame 
>bag for free (both new). You don't have to buy anything listed here, but I 
>do ask for the shipping charges on these items.  If you do buy something, 
>I'll include it with your item(s).  Thanks.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Ron Mc
I've been totally floored by my Paul touring cantis 


- best brakes I've ever squeezed.  

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Philip Kim
Paul Motolite, in my experience, are hands down the best Paul Brakes (and 
best rim brakes I've used). Currently have them on my VO Camargue and they 
stop on a dime and have gobs of power. Takes some time with initial set up, 
but afterwards very easy to adjust. Minimotos don't have the same 
clearances as Motolites.

Rim brakes I've used: Paul Touring Cantis, Paul Neo Retro Cantis, Paul 
Racers, Shimano XT V-brake, Tektro CR720 w/ Kool Stop, Tektro 559's, 
Shimano Ultegra Sidepulls

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 5:07:30 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>
> I have the CX70 brakes with kool stop salmon pads on my 26" hunq (which is 
> currently running a 650b wheelset with the brake pads all the way at the 
> top position) and the brakes have always felt too squishy to me, even just 
> after picking the bike up new from Rivendell, and it certainly hasn't help 
> that I've fiddled with them so much over time. 
>
> Would V brakes like the Motolite or Minimoto work on the cantiliver 
> bosses? They seem to get very positive reviews. Clearance seems to be an 
> issue. Or would Paul Touring Canti or Neo Rretro brakes make more sense for 
> this frame and wheelset/tire choices (and if so is there really an 
> advantage of Paul canti's vs. the Shimano's)?  
>
> I'm using Shimano road brake levers on Albastache bars. 650b x 42mm 
> compass tires, though I am thinking of going with the  rat trap passes and 
> going back to the 26" wheelset.
>
> Or can someone school me in how get my CX70's nice and tight so I don't 
> need to look at other options (I've tried a LBS for adjustments and that 
> didn't seem to help).
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Torque!

2016-01-04 Thread Patrick Moore
John: Isn't riding fixed fun? Over the years (I got my first fixie in 1996
or so) I have either planned or actually built and ridden bicycles with
freewheels and even with derailleur systems, but I always come back to
fixed systems, even in preference to single speed coasters. I do like
multiple gears for off road, but for road -- at least for the short (30
miles or less) rides I typicall do -- I just find fixed wheel riding more
interesting. Frankly, I am happiest when I have to exert a little torque;
as for example with long, gradual ascents.

John and -- "Lungimsam:" is that your name? -- thanks for the compliments.
The gofast was my second Rivendell road custom, and I recall Grant being
initially a bit skeptical when I told him I wanted a dedicated fixed gear
-- dedicated, meaning no braze ons for rear brake or derailleurs. I recall
how perfect the bike fit and felt as soon as I set it up -- though
initially my gear was about 67"; my torque has increased and my cadence
dropped over the years.

I don't nowadays do a lot of backpedaling; only on long downhills. I used
to skid stop regularly, but gave that up. But the purpose of a rear brake
is very largely (at least for me) for backup in case the principal front
brake fails; I could very easily ride a freewheel bike with just a front,
were it not for fear of a broken cable at the wrong time.

In fact, I just scored a Sturmey Archer AM hub on the CR list and, if it
works out, I plan to have a wheel built with it for the gofast. I'll have
to rig up rear brake, and I think the easiest way will be a reverse lever
with a cable zip tied to the frame; this will be for quick
installation/removal. The AM is a pretty rare medium ratio epicyclic
gearset with the gears being 0.8654/1.0/1.115.

Lungimsam: I'll try to take better photographs in good sunlight. Be warned,
I am (1) slightly color blind and (2) very poor at photography, but I think
I can get a more accurate photo of the color. It's a navy or royal blue,
slightly metallic.

Does anyone know what happened to Joe Starck?

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:30 PM, JohnS  wrote:

> Hello Patrick,
>
> I think you've hit the hail on the head when you say you need to pace
> yourself accurately when fixed gear riding. I try to do the same when I'm
> on my QB, trying to balance pushing it up hills in my cruising gear or
> using the low gear so that I feel I've gotten a good work out in, without
> being exhausted. What I'm also finding is that I have more sit down
> strength than I when I started riding the QB this past spring. Down hills
> require a lot more concentration than a free wheel bike, making sure I keep
> control as I spin out the gear is challenging, so it's not as much fun.
> What I really enjoy are those fleeting moments when on a slight down hill
> or flat with a tail wind, where I can push the cruising gear, but not spin
> it out.
>
> You're '99 Joe Gofast looks like a great ride. Front brake only, I guess
> you're good a back pedaling to control your speed. Myself, I have to
> use both front and rear brakes since my knees can't deal with the stress of
> back pedaling. I'm not familiar with that bike. How is the chain tension
> taken up? I don't see horizontal drop outs in the picture.
>
> Thanks,
> JohnS
>
>
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 5:23:35 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I "just rode" this afternoon, the qualifyer "just" because I had to wait
>> for daughter and friend at the skating rink at the top of Tramway, and had
>> only an hour or so to ride. So I took the '99 Joe Gofast 4 miles down the
>> hill to the Casino where the road splits into 4 lanes, and turned around
>> and cranked back up.
>>
>> 76" gear all of the way!! I do have a 66" granny on the flip side, but I
>> didn't use it. No huge tailwind, either. About a half mile total sitting,
>> the rest standing. Cadence dropped to 30 rpm or so, I am sure, on the
>> steepest mile.
>>
>> I'm chuffed! I realize that this is a very, very*, very* minor
>> accomplishment, but it was *great fun!* I really do like climbing better
>> than descending -- especially when I can't coast, but even with a coaster.
>>
>> One great skill one learns after riding fixed for a long time is, how to
>> pace yourself accurately. I was working hard on the steepest section, but I
>> was by no means exhausted at the top, and in fact I added another few
>> rolling miles thereafter.
>>
>> Every so often I think I'll convert the gofast to multispeed, or add
>> fenders or rack or whatnot, but a little ride like this always, *always* 
>> reassures
>> me that I'm right to have at least one "do nothing but go (relatively)
>> fast" bike.
>>
>> Funny, I think descending -- retarding speed -- is harder on my quads
>> than climbing.
>>
>> Anyway, Alhamdu lilah, a very pleasant, if very brief, excursion.
>>
>> excursion
>> 
>> [ik-skur-zhuh n, -shuh n]
>> Spell Syllables
>>
>>- Examples
>>- 

[RBW] 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-04 Thread Brian Hanson
Hey Riv bunch!  I was reflecting today on my beloved Hilsen after riding it
for about 7-years, and decided to put up some thoughts in a "long term
review".  Still my favorite bike, ever...

http://stonehog.com/2016/01/04/a-homer-hilsen-7-year-review/

Brian Hanson
Seattle, WA
Bike Blog 
@stonehog
stonehogboɥǝuoʇs

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[RBW] Re: FS: Custom Bag Queue Open.

2016-01-04 Thread Lungimsam
Banzer Bags sounds like a cool name.
So could I measure from my front rack platform to my stem top and order a 
custom size Rando type bag. Width and depth too?

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-04 Thread Lungimsam
So for a new drop bar Riv-bike that can have bars set 1-2cm below saddle, one 
would need to buy an Atlantis, Hilsen, or Roadeo at this point in Riv-time. Or 
cut the steerer tube down on a Sam, Clem, or Joe?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Christmas Goggles!

2016-01-04 Thread Lungimsam
I don't like anything less than 45 F.

Too scary/depressing/painful/grim/mood lowering for me. I am not that hardy a 
person. When it hits 55f I start getting happy again. I've had 47 winters in my 
life and it seems like that's 7 too many for me. After I hit 40 it just wears 
me down. Too cold to wrench or ride much. No fun. 

Maybe the dry cold in Colorado and westward isn't as brutal as the wet cold we 
get in Maryland. Either that or you guys are just exceptionally manly men.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Christmas Goggles!

2016-01-04 Thread Lungimsam
I don't like anything less than 45 F.

Too scary/depressing/painful/grim/mood lowering for me. I am not that hardy a 
person. When it hits 55f I start getting happy again. I've had 47 winters in my 
life and it seems like that's 7 too many for me. After I hit 40 it just wears 
me down. Too cold to wrench or ride much. No fun. 

Maybe the dry cold in Colorado and westward isn't as brutal as the wet cold we 
get in Maryland. Either that or you guys are just exceptionally manly men.

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[RBW] 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-04 Thread Lungimsam
Capital review!
I wish people here did more reviews of their bikes. Fun to read!
Glad to hear the Hilson has worked out so well for you. Must be very satisfying.
Interesting feedback on the Riv vs. low trail bike.

Do you have two Hilsens? I saw the pic of the Hilsen dressed in Hunq clothes.

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[RBW] 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-04 Thread Lungimsam
Oops...on second glance that is a 'pillar.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Custom Bag Queue Open.

2016-01-04 Thread John Wilson
I own two saddle wedge bags from David: a yellow one for my yellow-trimmed 
Austro Daimler Vent Noir ll 650B conversion, and a tan one for my mostly 
stock '73 Paramount P15. Both look perfect on the bikes and are roomy 
enough for a folding tire, a couple of tubes, and a generous supply of 
get-me-home tools. A major league +1 for Treetop.

John Wilson
Greensburg, PA  USA


On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 2:00:06 PM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:

> Happy New Year!
>
> I closed my queue before the holidays so I could spend some time with 
> family without working on bags. I'm opening my queue for custom and 
> standard bag orders. I have a couple custom spots available for end of 
> January delivery, then February spots are open.
> Standard bag designs are also available - for now in olive green and black 
> made of water-repellent #8 cotton duck canvas. My current photos in the 
> webstore will be updated shortly. I'm aiming to offer a few revamped 
> standard designs come spring time.
> These are usually made to order unless I build up a ready-made inventory 
> and take usually 2 weeks to shipping point, rando bags a little longer.
>
> For custom bags, contact me directly at daba...@gmail.com .
> For standard bags that are currently available, order through my webstore: 
> treetop.bigcartel.com.
>
> Finally, a big thanks to folks who have let me make bags for them. This 
> has been a huge learning experience, and I continue to learn and hone my 
> skills with each bag I make.
>
> Thanks,
> David
> Chicago
> treetop.bigcartel.com
> treetopbags.blogspot.com
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Bullmoose dull brite bar

2016-01-04 Thread Carlin Eng
Found what I was looking for. Thanks everyone!

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 8:25:27 AM UTC-8, Carlin Eng wrote:
>
> Title says it all -- looking for one of these: 
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb4.htm
>
> I want to try it, but it's hard to justify shelling out $160 for something 
> brand new when I'm not sure if I'll like it. If you've got one lying 
> around, shoot me a message and hopefully we can work something out. In case 
> it matters to you, it will be going on my raw double top-tube Bombadil: 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/9O766ZIACW
>
> Thanks!
>
> Carlin
>

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Re: [RBW] Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-04 Thread Chris Chen
Fwiw I've used the pogies I have now on my albastaches without too much of
an issue.

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 6:51 PM, Chris Chen  wrote:

> I talked to the owner of Portland Pogies and she's made a bigger version
> that should work rather well on the albastaches...check her out
>
> portlandpogies.com
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 5:15 PM, Daniel Jackson <
> daniel.seth.jack...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the
>> albastache?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> D.
>>
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread stonehog
My 2 cents.  I used the 2.1 Thunder Burts (lightweight tubeless) last year 
on the Oregon Outback, and on the paved section, we had no problem humming 
along in the 17-20mph range.  They are my favorite mixed terrain tire, at 
least as far as what I've tried yet.  I ride them regularly on my paved 
commute, and they slow me down far less than normal knobby tires.  They 
seem to just coast along...

If you are going to be doing 99% paved, look at the SuperMotos - they are 
biggg, light, and comfy, as well.  If you want a bit more bite - the TBs 
are lighter, and grippier on the loose stuff.

Brian Hanson
Seattle, WA

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 12:51:10 PM UTC-8, William R. wrote:
>
> Hi Deacon and Patrick: what do you think of the Thunder Burts as a mixed 
> terrain tire on pavement to get to the dirt roads and trails? Nothing too 
> technical, mostly smooth packed dirt. I'm talking 5-10 miles on the road 
> and mixed use paths to get there though. Are they a buzzy compromise there 
> or does their light weight and suppleness have them feeling fast on 
> pavement? I'm trying to decide what to outfit my Appaloosa with when it 
> comes. I'm thinking all over the place from Big Bens (fast on pavement, but 
> heavier and less supple) to the liteskin TBs maxing out the width around 
> 55mm.
>
> Bill in finally some seasonable cold but no snow yet Westchester, NY
>

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-04 Thread Joe Bernard
The Joe is a longbike. I suspect DT shifters would be an unreasonably long 
reach forward on that bike, and especially awkward from the pulled back 
position of the bars. 

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-04 Thread Lungimsam
Even no rack still light mounts there.
No DT shifter braze ons. Too bad.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread David Johnston
A pro-fitter might try to fit you like a "pro", with handlebars 4"
below the saddle and a foot of seatpost showing. I'm not sure that's
going to be useful in your case. I would be very wary of a typical
pro-fit session at a local bike shop. I'm sure there must be some good
ones out there, but I haven't seen it.


On 1/4/16, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
> For what it's worth, the rider that rode away from the group, off the
> front, in the most demonstrative, alpha-dog manner, that I've ever seen in
> ~20-something brevets over the last 5 years, was riding an A. Homer
> Hilsen.
>
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:17:07 PM UTC-8, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> Great ideas from all! I will be doing a pro fitting later this spring.
>> Maybe I'm just being fussy. I look at what other have done brevets on and
>> I
>> guess I can give it a go with just about any bike. I'll try the brake hood
>>
>> adjustment. The tape is getting dirty anyway. Going with a shorter stem
>> hampers the handling a bit. For the fenders: I got tired of futzing with
>> my
>> honjos, trying to make them fit over the 38mm tires. I don't like the look
>>
>> of the SKS fender mounts so I used honjo fender mounts on sks longboards.
>>
>>  I drilled out the sks mounting brackets leaving the rivets. Now  no
>> rattle
>> and they protect as well as the honjos. I admit they still don't look as
>> cool as the honjos.
>>
>>
>>
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

2016-01-04 Thread Dave Johnston
I had a later version Todd Kuzma Heron and true 38mm tires wouldn't really 
fit comfortably.  Part of the confusion on those early Riv's were that most 
all the tire manufactures and in particular the Panaracer Pasela were over 
rating their tire width, so a Pasela 35mm was more like 31mm and a 38mm was 
more like 35mm. The early Riv's were based on the size Pasela that would 
fit, not actual tire widths. Later Riv started posting pictures of digital 
calipers with real tire widths and Panaracer relabeled their tires. 

-Dave

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 5:12:50 AM UTC-5, MartyG wrote:
>
> Will have to confirm the SOH later in the week as I'm remote from the bike 
> shed at the moment, but the following spec sheet listed 31-3/4" along with 
> all the other relevant dimensions. Now that I re-read this myself, 38s plus 
> fenders may be tight, but 35s + are no issue. I tested SKSs with the 
> current tires (35s) and there was plenty of wiggle room. Don't be shy 
> making a reasonable offer - these don't come along very often. 
>
>  http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/rivendell.pdf
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Bill Lindsay
dstein asked:

"I'm also wondering if the 650b setup is a good idea for brake placement. I 
can position the pads at the highest setting to reach the 650b rims, but is 
more at the bottom of the rim rather than the middle or top of the rim like 
when it was a 26" rim. Does that play into how it brakes?"

For any cantilever brake of this kind, pads at the top of the slots is the 
position of LEAST mechanical advantage.  This goes completely counter to 
your main complaint, though.  Your primary complaint is the brakes are 
squishy.  Squishy feeling brakes is the most common symptom of HIGH 
mechanical advantage.  With the pads at the top of the slots, your brakes 
should feel solid, but should feel like you don't have much power.  This is 
what confuses me about the whole thing.  It doesn't add up, and leads me to 
suspect there is something else going on.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread Brian Campbell
FWIW, I ride a 61cm AHH and  completed a 200k this past October. I run 38mm 
Compass EL Barlow Pass tires w/ 50mm VO aluminum fenders ( I think they are 
a diamond or snakeskin pattern). My bike weighed about 33lbs with all of 
the stuff I had attached to it. I could feel it sucking the fun out of the 
longer distances I was riding, particularly while climbing. 

I put the bike on a diet for the 200k and got down to just north of 26lbs. 
This includes saddle/pedals/empty water bottles/cages/Dyno hub with lights 
and fenders. Basically everything but my saddle bag. With the saddle bag 
added, it come is at 29lbs. I know 4 or 5 pounds is not the end of the 
world when considering the total weight of bike and rider but I noticed the 
difference in climbing and bike handling. 

I had an large Acorn handle bar bag and Nitto Mark's rack with Shimano 10 
speed bar end shifters. I removed the rack and handlebar bag and the bike 
handled much better for me. I also replaced the bar end shifters with a set 
of 10 speed Dura Ace downtube shifters. The VO Aluminum fenders replaced 
the SKS Longboard and the Supernova E3/Busch & Mueller lights were replaced 
with Schmidt Edelux II and Velo Lumino taillight. All in all, I am pleased 
with the changes. I don't feel that the bike needs to be lighter but I am 
also more mindful about what I add and carry, as it affects my enjoyment.

I would try and remove the excess weight  and see if that help the ride 
quality. If the AHH is too big, than I would sell it. No reason to be 
uncomfortable on a bike that is set up for long rides. Running  short stems 
has never worked well for me when it comes to the bikes handling. Good luck!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread davecstein
Maybe squishy isn't the right adjective then? My concern is I have to pull the 
road levers almost all the way then and even then I feel I am not getting near 
the stopping power I should be compared to my other bikes (mix of canti's and 
calipers and discs). 

Also on the minimotos for anyone that knows, should those be run with road 
brake levers?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 4, 2016, at 7:04 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
> 
> dstein asked:
> 
> "I'm also wondering if the 650b setup is a good idea for brake placement. I 
> can position the pads at the highest setting to reach the 650b rims, but is 
> more at the bottom of the rim rather than the middle or top of the rim like 
> when it was a 26" rim. Does that play into how it brakes?"
> 
> For any cantilever brake of this kind, pads at the top of the slots is the 
> position of LEAST mechanical advantage.  This goes completely counter to your 
> main complaint, though.  Your primary complaint is the brakes are squishy.  
> Squishy feeling brakes is the most common symptom of HIGH mechanical 
> advantage.  With the pads at the top of the slots, your brakes should feel 
> solid, but should feel like you don't have much power.  This is what confuses 
> me about the whole thing.  It doesn't add up, and leads me to suspect there 
> is something else going on.  
> 
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

2016-01-04 Thread William deRosset
Dear Lungimsam,

This has been discussed on this list, and over at the BOB list in some 
detail, and a review of the archives may be instructive. 

The original Heron designs were done with Grant Petersen and Ted Durant 
(who financed/owned Heron), and launched in 1997. There were two: the Road 
and the Touring. They were both versatile and (in my opinion) lovely 
machines. If you like the ride of the Rambouillet or other medium-wall O/S 
bikes, you'll like the early Road and Touring bikes. 

They reflected Grant's preferences of the time for stock parts and 
horizontal dropouts.

The Road was built for short-reach brakes, with maximized brake clearance, 
medium-gauge O/S tubing, slightly slacker-than-typical seat angle and 
slightly longer-than-typical top tube to yield neutral road-going geometry. 
It is an extra-stiff road-racing bike, and included enough room to stuff 
fenders and 27's under the arches. They rode well, and rewarded big-power 
riders.

The Touring was built with slacker angles, medium-gauge O/S tubing, longer 
chainstays, and was designed around cantilever brakes. It fit a 35+fenders. 
It is a traditional loaded-touring bike, and I really enjoyed mine.

Later, after Todd Kuzma bought the rights to the designs and the name, the 
model names were redone, I believe he went to vertical dropouts and 
different CrMo tubes, and an additional model added--it was essentially a 
Heron Touring with vertical dropouts, but it came as a kit for a 
semi-integrated bike. Jan Heine reviewed it early on in his Vintage Bicycle 
Quarterly, and the medium-wall O/S tubing didn't agree with him. If it had 
the Touring geometry, then it probably didn't behave that well with a light 
front-only load, either.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO


On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 8:16:31 AM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Was there just one design of Heron , or two? I think I read something in 
> BQ like Jan Heine helped develop the first one with Rando geo and the there 
> was a later, different geo produced. Not clear on this.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Clayton.sf
Regarding straddle. You can use a "normal" straddle wire arrangement on the 
cx70. LBS should have those.

Clayton Scott
SF, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Shoji Takahashi
I have CX70 on my 26" Hunqapillar, too. (Just swapped to studded tires. Was 
running Rat Trap Pass with VO fenders.) I changed from Tektro CR720, and 
CX70s are much better. 

I used the straddle hanger and cable, as I have several handlebar setups, 
and swapping them is easy using the straddle wire/hanger arrangement.

One thing to try: change your brake housing to compressionless brake 
housing. (Don't get it confused with derailer housing!) I've heard that it 
can dramatically improve brake feel. (I do notice that the brakes feel more 
squishy on the longer cable runs on the albatross bars than the shorter 
cable runs on the moustache. I'll try new cable housing in the spring.)

Good luck!
Shoji



On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:45:45 AM UTC-5, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> Regarding straddle. You can use a "normal" straddle wire arrangement on 
> the cx70. LBS should have those.
>
> Clayton Scott
> SF, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Philip Kim
mini motos are short pull so road levers

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 10:21:44 AM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>
> Maybe squishy isn't the right adjective then? My concern is I have to pull 
> the road levers almost all the way then and even then I feel I am not 
> getting near the stopping power I should be compared to my other bikes (mix 
> of canti's and calipers and discs). 
>
> Also on the minimotos for anyone that knows, should those be run with road 
> brake levers?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 4, 2016, at 7:04 AM, Bill Lindsay  
> wrote:
>
> dstein asked:
>
> "I'm also wondering if the 650b setup is a good idea for brake placement. 
> I can position the pads at the highest setting to reach the 650b rims, but 
> is more at the bottom of the rim rather than the middle or top of the rim 
> like when it was a 26" rim. Does that play into how it brakes?"
>
> For any cantilever brake of this kind, pads at the top of the slots is the 
> position of LEAST mechanical advantage.  This goes completely counter to 
> your main complaint, though.  Your primary complaint is the brakes are 
> squishy.  Squishy feeling brakes is the most common symptom of HIGH 
> mechanical advantage.  With the pads at the top of the slots, your brakes 
> should feel solid, but should feel like you don't have much power.  This is 
> what confuses me about the whole thing.  It doesn't add up, and leads me to 
> suspect there is something else going on.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

2016-01-04 Thread Lungimsam
Was there just one design of Heron , or two? I think I read something in BQ 
like Jan Heine helped develop the first one with Rando geo and the there was a 
later, different geo produced. Not clear on this.

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread Donald Funke
I know what you mean about "Pro fitters". I am mostly concerned about the 
relationship between the saddle height, saddle for and aft, and for me, 
possible cleat wedging. Right now I am focused on a painful lumbar disc 
that is preventing me from riding at all. Who knows maybe I will be on a 
recumbent in the spring. 

On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
> condition BTW. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Glorius and Wilbury available now under the radar sales

2016-01-04 Thread Ryan Fleming
Hi Ryan from the South

Hope you are high and dry...flooding in US sounds dreadful!

My bikes
Early 70's Peugeot PX-10 set up as SS w moustache bars
1997 Rivendell A/R built in Waterford WI w moustache bars
2001 Riv Road Custom - Curt G. w "Dream" bars
1993 Bridgestone X0-1  - w moustaches


Hi GRRLYRIDA  - you have the pink mixte custom; am I right? That is 
certainly  a very lovely bike, and I'm glad to hear that it's as versatile 
as I hope and expect. I'm thinking of a deep maroon colour; thought it'll 
go nicely with the cream. Thinking 650B wheels with fattish 40-ish tires

Ryan Fleming in Winnipeg
On Thursday, December 31, 2015 at 7:58:55 PM UTC-6, Abcyclehank wrote:
>
> Ryan,
> Curious what your other bikes are?  Been thinking of adding a Jumbo Custom 
> Mixte from Rivendell to my fleet of bikes. 
>
> Sincerely,
> Ryan "From down South in Michigan" Hankinson
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Christmas Goggles!

2016-01-04 Thread Tim Gavin
Just getting caught up on emails after the break, sorry for the tardy reply.

But I wanted to add, for Deacon and other goggle-wearers.

There is a product called the Pinch 
that attaches to the bottom of your goggles to protect your cheeks and
nose.  It is made in Canada so shipping is a pain, but it's a very simple
design (some fleece and three velcro tabs) so you could probably fashion a
homebuilt facsimile.

I love this product, because it allows me to wear a scarf/Buff/necktube to
cover my chin, cheeks, and ears, but leave my mouth open for heavy
exertion.  Any time I cover my mouth, even with a vented mask, the inside
of the mask gets soaked from my breath.  With the Pinch and a wool neck
tube, I can ride for hours in 0 degree F.

And now I'm going out riding.  (4.5" studded tires in 20 degree weather)

Cheers,
Tim

On Sat, Dec 26, 2015 at 9:51 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Caradhras, Ron. Caradhras. Grin. I'm rather a Middle Earth misnomer, so
> your puzzlement is justified. I've enough hair on my usually bare feet to
> be a hobbit, but I'm 6'-2" with a dwarvish or Gandolphian beard, and my
> kids tell me I'm a smart aleck theologian like Gandalf, so I'll let you
> figure it out from there!
>
> Bizarrely, that picture has been explored. There's no figuring how that
> works.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Friday, December 25, 2015 at 7:49:26 PM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> I didn't know it got blustry in Middle Earth - are you sure you're not a
>> dwarf?
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

2016-01-04 Thread Joe Bernard
Hi Marty,

How long are the cranks, and what is the rear spacing?

Thanks, 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 11:01:38 AM UTC-8, MartyG wrote:

> Designed and offered by Rivendell in the late 90s. A really gorgeous bike 
> that is too small for me, and too tall for my wife. I purchased this 
> recently from the family of the original owner. Reynolds 531 frameset. No 
> dents or damage, very few scuffs. No rust of any kind. Paint and graphics 
> are impressively well preserved - beautiful in the full sun today! Eclectic 
> high-end parts mix includes TA Zephyr triple fitted to a Campagnolo BB, 
> Phil/XTR hubs laced to CR-18 36 hole rims. American Classic seatpost in 
> 27.2. Avocet touring saddle. Tange roller bearing headset, Nitto rando bars 
> and stem. Shimano brakes. Sachs rear derailer, Suntour up front. All new 
> cables and housing. Silver downtube shifters are funtional, but may need 
> work. You may prefer bar-ends anyway. Tires (Panaracer Pasella) hold air 
> but should be replaced. WIll fit 38s and fenders. Really wish it was my 
> size. Asking $1,250.00. 
>
> See the pics in the Flickr set below, and feel free to ask questions. Can 
> arrange free pick-up or delivery in the Baltimore/Washington area, 
> otherwise I will split shipping 50/50 to the US lower 48 only. 
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32306142@N07/albums/72157661387558919
>
> Thanks for looking!
>
> Marty
>
>
> 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Christmas Clementine

2016-01-04 Thread Ryan Fleming
Your builds are just fantastic:)

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 9:28:37 PM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:
>
> Yes -- the cable stops aren't well located for the pulley idea. And 
> thanks, all!  Happy New Year! 
>
>
>
> > On Jan 3, 2016, at 4:45 AM, Tom Harrop  
> wrote: 
> > 
> > That is magic, well done. So you went for v-brakes over the cantis and 
> pulley that were discussed earlier? 
> > 
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[RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

2016-01-04 Thread MartyG
Joe - the cranks are 170, rear spacing is 130ish and the dropouts are 
horizontal. 

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[RBW] A few unique bags for sale

2016-01-04 Thread Michael Williams
hello group!   I have a few bags for sale.  All in excellent condition.   
Bought them,  tried them a bit. If youre not crazy about the price,  offer 
somethin fair :)  All prices include shipping!  
1) Sackville Grabsack tan- $60
2) Carsick Designs goodie bag-   Olive/ black/tan. Its a small cinch top bag 
with pockets that attaches to stem/ handlebars. Great for accessing things fast 
or extra bottle/ burrito/ beer holder!   -$25
3) Rivendell Mountain Works large hiphugger fanny pack.   Clay/ navy blue.   
Nice, comfy fanny pack with internal pocket. -$45.
If you would like a photo or two contact me off list please!   Happy new year 
everybody!!   -Mike

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

2016-01-04 Thread Garth
Direct facing photos of both front and rear would be useful !  
This may help :  
http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-cyclocross-gravelbiking/722673-cantilver-brake-faq.html

I suspect and adjustment of the straddle wire would help. The basic 
straddle carriers are wonderful as they are much more flexible in setup. 
I've found any of the fixed ones are too limiting. Also, detach the 
straddle cable from the brake and hold it down at the carrier with one 
hand, and activate the brake with the other, it should feel smooth and 
without resistance. Cables and their routing angles all play a part in this 
and a resistance-free setup here is the foundation for any brake performing 
at it's best. 

A higher priced brakes is no more of a gauge of quality of braking than mid 
or even lower priced ones. Setup and pads are everything !  My favorite 
brakes are still the 80's post style cantilever Shimano or Suntour .  

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
Bill,

What you describe exactly matches this trip:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/albums/72157652026645308

The first 35 miles of that are paved and chipseal, then dirt in it's many 
and various glorious forms. The Thunder Burts 2.1" did brilliantly on all 
of it, including slogging through the "peanut butter" mud, muck, and mire 
post grater.

With abandon,
Patrick


On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-7, William R. wrote:
>
> Hi Deacon and Patrick: what do you think of the Thunder Burts as a mixed 
> terrain tire on pavement to get to the dirt roads and trails? Nothing too 
> technical, mostly smooth packed dirt. I'm talking 5-10 miles on the road 
> and mixed use paths to get there though. Are they a buzzy compromise there 
> or does their light weight and suppleness have them feeling fast on 
> pavement? I'm trying to decide what to outfit my Appaloosa with when it 
> comes. I'm thinking all over the place from Big Bens (fast on pavement, but 
> heavier and less supple) to the liteskin TBs maxing out the width around 
> 55mm.
>
> Bill in finally some seasonable cold but no snow yet Westchester, NY
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

2016-01-04 Thread Will
Ok, Ok, Ok where do you put the water bottle? Down tube, seat tube, 
over or under the seat tube? Seems to me these adjustments are easily as 
important as moving a rider by 1cm. :-)

I still don't see how moving the saddle within the narrow range Brooks 
gives us, or changing to a slightly shorter stem IS WORSE than the lack of 
comfort the OP has now. 

I see no situation where I would trade a Hilsen (if I could tweak the 
cockpit) for a Ram with less tire options. In my hierarchy, wheels 
dominate. I'd rather have those additional pesky mms on the tires.  I'd 
sacrifice a few mms' in the cockpit, to have better tires any day.   

My Atlantis with Mustache bars had me a bit stretched. I swapped for 
Albastaches. Shortened the cockpit by 1"... do I like it? Yes. Is the 
handling better? Yes... I am more comfortable on the bars. Bar comfort 
counts. I think the OP is looking for bar comfort. Telling him he cannot 
adjust the cockpit within normal variance b/c every millimeter matters is a 
bit hard, don't you think?

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 2:49:15 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> In the 45 years since I built my first bike from scratch at age 15, I 
> learned very thoroughly that moving a bar or saddle back or forth 1/2" -- a 
> full cm -- *can* make a huge difference in the fit and feel of a bike! I 
> find that with such a change I have to adjust other things to compensate; 
> as, when moving the saddle forward, my legs want the saddle raised a bit, 
> and so forth.
>
> I recently relented, due to no doubt to age-related strain on the aft 
> thigh muscle in my left leg, and moved my Flites about 3 mm forward from 
> absolute, rubber mallet-impacted, rearmost position (I should have listened 
> to Grant and had my frames built with 72* angles, not 73*) and I 
> immediately felt a difference (and a good one). I did not change the bar 
> position, which feels just as good now as before; so not every such change 
> demands compensation. But a full cm is very certainly often noticeable!
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 1:36 PM, Will  
> wrote:
>
>> Which is why I originally suggested moving the seat forward slightly and 
>> going to a shorter stem to mitigate that long top tube.
>>
>> We're talking moving the rider mass forward about 1/2" via seat 
>> adjustment, and reducing arm extention by an additional inch via going from 
>> 7cm stem to 5cm stem. These are typical adjustments everyone makes to 
>> fine-tune a cockpit. And they balance. His body position will be less 
>> stretched, so his shoulders/head will be very slightly higher, but his 
>> weight shift between the axles is negligable. 
>>
>> If we were moving 3-4 inches, I'd agree with you. But these are really 
>> minor tweaks... and worth exploring, since the alternative is a bike with 
>> less tire and fender clearance. 
>>
>> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 12:28:29 PM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Will,
>>> Among other things, stem length changes weight distribution. This can 
>>> change the handling of a bike.
>>>
>>> Dirt drop stems (at least the ones sold by Riv) are not very short: 8cm 
>>> or 10cm. They do go up high.
>>>
>>> I'd recommend trying to raise the bars a few cms and see how that goes.
>>>
>>> shoji
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:16:17 PM UTC-5, Will wrote:

 I'm not sure how shorter stems hamper handling. I've used long stems on 
 smaller frames and shorter stems on larger frames, both worked fine. 

 Steering a bike, as we all know, works mostly by rotating the front 
 wheel a couple of inches and leaning a bit. It's hard to see how a 7cm vs 
 5cm stem changes that level of rotation or weight balance. Riv frames have 
 long top tubes. GP suggests using dirt drop stems for long tube 
 mitigation. 



 On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 12:17:07 AM UTC-6, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> Great ideas from all! I will be doing a pro fitting later this spring. 
> Maybe I'm just being fussy. I look at what other have done brevets on and 
> I 
> guess I can give it a go with just about any bike. I'll try the brake 
> hood 
> adjustment. The tape is getting dirty anyway. Going with a shorter stem 
> hampers the handling a bit. For the fenders: I got tired of futzing with 
> my 
> honjos, trying to make them fit over the 38mm tires. I don't like the 
> look 
> of the SKS fender mounts so I used honjo fender mounts on sks longboards. 
>  
> I drilled out the sks mounting brackets leaving the rivets. Now  no 
> rattle 
> and they protect as well as the honjos. I admit they still don't look as 
> cool as the honjos.
>
> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. 
>> I have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 
>> 60cm 
>> 

Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread Patrick Moore
"Dave" is better than "Hey! You!"



On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:16 PM, William R.  wrote:

> I mean Patrick! Dang. I was thinking Dave originally mentioned the Icons.
>
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**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities
revolve. *Chuang Tzu

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

2016-01-04 Thread Joe Bernard
I predict this is one of those products Riv will eventually abandon after one 
too many emails or forum posts questioning how the blazes they work. Remember 
the self-healing tubes that required a dedicated patch, and had to be mounted a 
certain way on the rim? I still have the patches somewhere...

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[RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
I switched back to my 2.1” Thunder Burts yesterday (returning after 3 miles to 
do so) from my Smart Sams because the TB’s are so smooth, the SS’s so stiff my 
head hurt on the frozen rumble pack of a trail.

I know Mark R. prefers a knobbier tire, but at least in the conditions I’ve 
ridden so far this winter (12” powder- full ranger of snow pack, slush, loose 
flower pack, etc, sometimes on the same ride depending on sun exposure), temps 
from 40’s to -10˚F, the TB’s have takes it all well.

I run them at 20 psi. Of course YMMV. Grin. The important thing is being stupid 
enough to get out there. I’ve got that covered! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto Bullmoose dull brite bar

2016-01-04 Thread Carlin Eng
Title says it all -- looking for one of 
these: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb4.htm

I want to try it, but it's hard to justify shelling out $160 for something 
brand new when I'm not sure if I'll like it. If you've got one lying 
around, shoot me a message and hopefully we can work something out. In case 
it matters to you, it will be going on my raw double top-tube 
Bombadil: https://www.instagram.com/p/9O766ZIACW

Thanks!

Carlin

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

2016-01-04 Thread mikel66...@juno.com
my Heron Road can fit a 30mm tire thats about it-I run a roly poly with a 
little room to spare



Protect what matters
Knowing your flood risk and being prepared can help keep your family safe ...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/568a9be7a2f771be71992st01duc

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