Re: [RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

[Deacon Patrick]

(Toe) Nailed it, Mojo! Grin. And never, ever apologize for your sense of 
humor. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 2:39:49 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
>
> Deacon,
>
> Do not accept de feet on de flickr!
> Sorry, sorry.
>

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[RBW] Re: Trail

[John Hawrylak]

Brian 

Good write up.  A tabular listing of key parameters (trail, STA, HTA) would 
have been hepful along with the main tubing specs.

Do you find 1 more livelier than the other???

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 2:13:09 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:

> Dave Johnston had a good request on thoughts on trail.  Yes it is again 
> the old low trail vs riv geometry.  Here are my thoughts.  Spoiler - I see 
> the point for both - their are advantages either way.  If you are not tired 
> of this debate, have a look and let me know what you think.
>
> http://stonehog.com/2016/01/06/trail-riding/
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using SunXCD Exceed cranks?

[Jack Doran]

Thanks Ron and Dave, and an FYI for anyone else who may interested, lives 
in the Bay Area and likes to throw money Hiroshi's way: Jitensha doesn't 
have any at the moment.

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 10:06:06 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> that's less than I paid from Japan.  
>
> On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 11:21:27 AM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
>>
>> Nice find. They do ship to the US, though VAT is not included in the 
>> listed price, so that'd be the price. About $105 shipped to the US.
>> David
>> Chicago
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.veloduo.co.uk/products/sun-tour-sunxcd-crank-arms-50-4-bcd-110-bcd-stronglight-49d-ta-cyclotouriste
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[Chad]

You may be right.  I was looking at the 650b SM a couple of years ago before I 
bought my Sam.  Mark at Riv said he test fit a 650x41 Fatty Rumpkin and it was 
too tall at the fork.

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[RBW] Re: I Bailed Off Flicker

[dougP]

Was this a tribe of foot fetishists?  Or just a lone fetisher?  If just 
one, (s)he may have been pulling your foot(heavy groan).

dougP

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 10:40:50 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Apparently I was a hit with people with barefoot fetiches, and I really 
> have no desire to be so. So I’ve deleted my account. I’m unsure, however, 
> how to share photos with you lot. Perhaps just in the posts themselves, or 
> on my blog. Time will tell, and I’m open to suggestions. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

[Abcyclehank]

Now that the good Deac has been de-feeted; I am at a loss how to proceed.  One 
of my New Year Resolutions is to post pictures of my rides via both Rivendell 
bicycles and my faster motorcycle with German engineering.  Each serve a 
important and enjoyable role in my life when I am not teaching, coaching, or 
reading for pleasure.
Is there a better photographic option that group members and myself should 
un-Flicker too before becoming further entrenched. 
I will be taking 50% of my photos with an IPhone 6s and 50% with a Full sized 
Sony A77ii digital SLR body and a variety of lenses.

Sincerely "knocked off my feet by this news",
Ryan "building wife and daughter Clems side by side later this month" Hankinson
At my New Residence in North Muskegon, MI

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Re: [RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[A CT Cyclist]

Tim what year is your girlfriend's San Marco? It looks like the tire
clearance has gotten wider than the   first editions  were. Mine is a 2012,
at that time the stated clearance was 35 mm without fenders, 33.3 mm with.
On Jan 7, 2016 9:09 AM, "Tim Gavin"  wrote:

> I agree that Paul Racers give you more fender clearance than Tektro R559
> calipers. I use Racers on my Riv Road (where clearance is very tight) and I
> can comfortably fit VO "hammered" 45 mm fenders over 650 x 38 Pari-Motos.
>
> The arms of the R559 calipers intrude more into the vertical fender
> space.  With those calipers, I could fit 38 mm tires and SKS P45 fenders,
> but not the VO "hammered" 45s (that are a little thicker).
>
>
> On my girlfriend's San Marcos, I could probably fit 650 x 42s under the
> P45 fenders, but the brake caliper would push the front fender lip into the
> tire space occasionally.  650 x 38s give just enough room so the fender
> never rubs.
>
> Pari-Moto tires are cheap, light, supple, and available in both 650 x 38
> and 42 sizes.  Their actual width is 37-38 mm on PL23 rims.  They've held
> up well for us and they ride great.
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 7:24 AM, Philip Kim  wrote:
>
>> I fit 42 with fenders fine with Paul Brakes. Other San Marcos on this
>> list has 42 Marathons with SKS fenders.
>>
>>>

 On 01/06/2016 06:31 PM, A CT Cyclist wrote:

 I don't think you can squeeze 42 mm tires with fenders. Soma's website
 states 38 mm without fenders 35 mm with. From what I can tell you can get
 the Straggler as a complete bike or a frame only.

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Re: [RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

[cyclotourist]

I'm a huge proponent of flickr, love the site. Still a great way to
organize, share, and research photos. And its still sort of a
"community" which I have always liked about it. Only thing bad about
it Yahoo! ownership.

I really don't like Instagram, but am on it just because it seems
that's where a critical mass has gone. But IG is a pretty trite,
minimal site that works good flipping through on a phone. Flickr words
much better on an actual computer (strange to millennials, but that's
what many of us elderly people use do the internetting with).
Especially if you're using a camera other than a phone.

So yeah Ryan, stick with flickr! And Deacon, feel free to come back,
but leave your feet pics on private (or just flaunt them to the
fettishers).

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 4:57 PM, Abcyclehank  wrote:
> Now that the good Deac has been de-feeted; I am at a loss how to proceed.  
> One of my New Year Resolutions is to post pictures of my rides via both 
> Rivendell bicycles and my faster motorcycle with German engineering.  Each 
> serve a important and enjoyable role in my life when I am not teaching, 
> coaching, or reading for pleasure.
> Is there a better photographic option that group members and myself should 
> un-Flicker too before becoming further entrenched.
> I will be taking 50% of my photos with an IPhone 6s and 50% with a Full sized 
> Sony A77ii digital SLR body and a variety of lenses.
>
> Sincerely "knocked off my feet by this news",
> Ryan "building wife and daughter Clems side by side later this month" 
> Hankinson
> At my New Residence in North Muskegon, MI
>
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-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] 63cm Homer Hilsen For Sale

[Donald Funke]

Some nasty medical expenses force sale of one of my favorite bikes
63cm Blue/Cream frame,paint in good/excellent condition
44cm Nitto noodles
Shimano XT hubs
Salsa Delgado rims
Compass Barlow Pass 38mm tires
SKS longboard fenders with honjo stays (comes with a used set of hammered 
Honjos and the SKS stays)
Brooks B17 (black)
Silver long reach brakes
Suguino triple crank
Silver bar-end shifters (8 speed)
7 cm Nitto Techtomic stem
$2,200
Options:
Sackville Handle bar bag with Nitto rack $200
Schmidt Edulux headlight, SP-8 dyno hub, Spangia rear fender light $500

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[RBW] Re: Why slick tires don't stick well

[ascpgh]

Bicycle tires also don't have the wide spectrum of weight and power output 
of vehicles, and picking tires with performance to match is critical. 
Cycling has a narrower  envelope of grip versus wear in which to maneuver, 
tire makers to produce, buyers to purposely choose from and 
journalist/designer/enthusiast/raconteurs  like Jan to differentiate for 
our benefit.

Looking back at some heavy-handed attempts to extend one parameter of bike 
tire performance, the Specialized Turbo Ummagumma compound tires  produced 
in the 1990s rear their carcasses. On several group rides I saw different 
unsuspecting riders slap the pavement when crossing an intermediate trickle 
of water (as opposed to an established, algae-supporting one) in the apex 
of a hairpin switchback. Riding in the mountains you could not avoid that 
scenario and yet these were OEM tires not some self-inflicted specialty 
tire choice of those riders. 

Tread alone was not enough to spare those UG Turbos from the instantaneous 
loss of any grip in the presence of moisture. Usually you make your 
choices, ready for the consequences, but that tire was a horrible thing to 
put on a production bike and into the hands of an average rider of 
unspecified intents or skills. 

A cycling friend (rides a Richard Sachs CX on BG Cypres on our urban 
forays) has a Lotus Elise that requires special tires for even nominal 
everyday use because it is so light on its wheels that typical tire 
compounds never warm to their minimum performance parameters and are 
frighteningly absent of nominal grip.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 11:29:40 AM UTC-5, George Schick wrote:
>
> Interesting.  One additional remark about the tires on racing cars and 
> motorcycles:  They run 'em very hot.  That's why you see the cars swerving 
> from side to side when they're going slow during a yellow caution flag in a 
> NASCAR race, to keep 'em heated up for when the green flag goes down.  The 
> softer tire compounds heat up more quickly, too.  'Course, this doesn't 
> usually happen with bicycle tires, given the slower speeds, etc.
>
> BTW, I seem to recall from the distant cobwebs of my aging cranium an 
> article about tires and tread that Grant wrote years ago in one of his Riv 
> Readers, concluding that any tread on a bike tire was more or less 
> irrelevant due to the small "footprint" of the tire on the riding surface. 
>  I'll have to fish around and see if I can find it, to see what he did in 
> fact say…
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 8:19:06 AM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> Sometimes, it seems that tire tread is just about "design", but there 
>> actually are real reasons why some tires stick better than others, 
>> especially in the wet...
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/why-slick-tires-dont-stick-well/
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[Tim Gavin]

I agree that Paul Racers give you more fender clearance than Tektro R559
calipers. I use Racers on my Riv Road (where clearance is very tight) and I
can comfortably fit VO "hammered" 45 mm fenders over 650 x 38 Pari-Motos.

The arms of the R559 calipers intrude more into the vertical fender space.
With those calipers, I could fit 38 mm tires and SKS P45 fenders, but not
the VO "hammered" 45s (that are a little thicker).


On my girlfriend's San Marcos, I could probably fit 650 x 42s under the P45
fenders, but the brake caliper would push the front fender lip into the
tire space occasionally.  650 x 38s give just enough room so the fender
never rubs.

Pari-Moto tires are cheap, light, supple, and available in both 650 x 38
and 42 sizes.  Their actual width is 37-38 mm on PL23 rims.  They've held
up well for us and they ride great.

Cheers,
Tim

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 7:24 AM, Philip Kim  wrote:

> I fit 42 with fenders fine with Paul Brakes. Other San Marcos on this list
> has 42 Marathons with SKS fenders.
>
>>
>>>
>>> On 01/06/2016 06:31 PM, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>>
>>> I don't think you can squeeze 42 mm tires with fenders. Soma's website
>>> states 38 mm without fenders 35 mm with. From what I can tell you can get
>>> the Straggler as a complete bike or a frame only.
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Trail

[Michael Hechmer]

Thanks for that write up.  I found it well reasoned and helpful.  I'm not 
an expert by any means and in fact have no experience with very low trail 
bikes, but have read Jan's material and wondered about them.  One question, 
which you didn't address directly but perhaps implied, is how each bike 
behaves in hi speed descents.   In the hills of Vermont, where I live and 
ride, I routinely descend at 35 - 45 mph, and occasionally faster.  I 
greatly appreciate the hi speed stability of both my Ram & Saluki.  They 
feel, as you note, like riding on rails, which is comforting at high speed. 
 How would you compare your two frames for hi speed descents?

Also, I totally agree about having as much baggage as possible above the 
fenders.  I'll bet Vermont and Seattle both punish panniers pretty 
severely.  For most of 13 years I commuted with a Carradice Barley bag 
mounted on their SQR.   I was only ever aware of the bag when I stood up 
and it would bounce back and forth a bit, but not side to side.

Michael

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 2:13:09 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
>
> Dave Johnston had a good request on thoughts on trail.  Yes it is again 
> the old low trail vs riv geometry.  Here are my thoughts.  Spoiler - I see 
> the point for both - their are advantages either way.  If you are not tired 
> of this debate, have a look and let me know what you think.
>
> http://stonehog.com/2016/01/06/trail-riding/
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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[RBW] Re: New Cheviot build for my wife.

[Kieran J]

Lovely! A nice departure from the typical Riv build scheme.

KJ


On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 11:51:07 PM UTC-5, Keith Muller wrote:
>
> Just finished up a new 50cm Cheviot build for my wife.  I have a couple 
> finishing details to work out, but it's about 98% there.  I thing it turned 
> out well.  Side profile has the lights mounted.  Still waiting for a basket 
> to arrive so I can mount it to the front rack.  
>
> Keith
>

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[RBW] Re: Tuning SunRace Thumbies

[Belopsky]

I am curious to this as well..on my Hilsen I've noticed this happens and 
tightening down the shifter screw has helped... (too much tension on the 
shifter)

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 12:17:08 AM UTC-5, Bryan Pizzillo wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was lucky enough to get one of the complete Clems and have been able to 
> put about 250mi on it so far.  Around the middle of December I had a couple 
> of experiences where the chain seemed to slip when peddling and under load. 
>  This is my first friction shifting bike, so I thought it was me.  For the 
> past couple of weeks though, this has become more frequent and has been 
> requiring less of a "load."  By load, it is almost always on a small 
> incline, but I have had it happen while spinning in an easy gear as well. 
>  The most frustrating aspect is that it is (almost) never right after I 
> have shifted, but usually a good 2-3 min after a shift.  You know, just 
> enough that I think it is ok and then bam, I am peddling with no 
> resistance.  Needless to say this is coloring my flirtation with friction 
> shifting and am thinking about going to an indexed 1x11.  
>
> I did do some searching and found similar issues, but not similar reasons 
> (old cassettes and chains), I have:
>
>1. Checked to see if there is a stuck link.  I back pedaled for a 
>while, looking at the derailer and chain and I did not see anything 
>resembling a stuck link.  Then again, I am not a (good) mechanic...
>2. Wiped down the chain, cleaned it, reapplied lube... (in hopes that 
>if it was a stuck link or something it would get relubricated)
>3. NOT dropped the bike or wrecked it on anything.  The derailer looks 
>pretty straight and does not look bent.
>
> Also, to make things slightly more annoying, I cannot get it to skip when 
> on the bike stand.  I can get it to jump between chains if I do not shift 
> it correctly, but I can't get it to hop off once engaged.  With index 
> shifting, it is usually easy to figure out what I need to do.  It either 
> gets into gear, or it does not and then I can adjust accordingly.  With 
> friction it feels like it probably does not matter much since you move the 
> shifter to get it to the right spot.  With the SunRace though, there is the 
> ratchet mechanism and I wonder if it not allowing the shifter to stay in 
> the position to hold the gear, but instead pulling ever so slightly to get 
> into its, um, "naturally ratcheted position?"  Any suggestions would be 
> appreciated, also any information on how I should set the derailer barrel 
> adjuster and how to set the limits for friction shifting would appreciated. 
>  I looked at things like Sheldon's page, but it seems a lot more geared to 
> index shifting with an aside here or there on friction shifting.
>
> Thanks,
> Bryan  
>

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[RBW] Re: Tuning SunRace Thumbies

[Paul Clifton]

I was wondering about cable tension on friction shifters last night, 
because I've been thinking of putting downtube shifters on a bike but then 
I wouldn't have any barrel adjusters, so the tension would have to just be 
however tight I could pull it. That's seems to bee fine enough most of the 
time when I set up other types of shifters, but I wonder 

Are friction shifters less reliant on cable tension, and is it possible to 
pull the cable too tight when you set up the bike? Is there any reason with 
friction shifters to tension the shifter cable with a barrel adjuster?

Bryan, this is just a thing I would try but I have no experience that says 
it'll help, but what about turning you barrel adjusters in to take some 
tension off, or unscrewing the pinch bolt on the derailer and just 
tensioning the cable hand tight?

Paul in ATL

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 8:16:48 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> I am curious to this as well..on my Hilsen I've noticed this happens and 
> tightening down the shifter screw has helped... (too much tension on the 
> shifter)
>
> On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 12:17:08 AM UTC-5, Bryan Pizzillo wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I was lucky enough to get one of the complete Clems and have been able to 
>> put about 250mi on it so far.  Around the middle of December I had a couple 
>> of experiences where the chain seemed to slip when peddling and under load. 
>>  This is my first friction shifting bike, so I thought it was me.  For the 
>> past couple of weeks though, this has become more frequent and has been 
>> requiring less of a "load."  By load, it is almost always on a small 
>> incline, but I have had it happen while spinning in an easy gear as well. 
>>  The most frustrating aspect is that it is (almost) never right after I 
>> have shifted, but usually a good 2-3 min after a shift.  You know, just 
>> enough that I think it is ok and then bam, I am peddling with no 
>> resistance.  Needless to say this is coloring my flirtation with friction 
>> shifting and am thinking about going to an indexed 1x11.  
>>
>> I did do some searching and found similar issues, but not similar reasons 
>> (old cassettes and chains), I have:
>>
>>1. Checked to see if there is a stuck link.  I back pedaled for a 
>>while, looking at the derailer and chain and I did not see anything 
>>resembling a stuck link.  Then again, I am not a (good) mechanic...
>>2. Wiped down the chain, cleaned it, reapplied lube... (in hopes that 
>>if it was a stuck link or something it would get relubricated)
>>3. NOT dropped the bike or wrecked it on anything.  The derailer 
>>looks pretty straight and does not look bent.
>>
>> Also, to make things slightly more annoying, I cannot get it to skip when 
>> on the bike stand.  I can get it to jump between chains if I do not shift 
>> it correctly, but I can't get it to hop off once engaged.  With index 
>> shifting, it is usually easy to figure out what I need to do.  It either 
>> gets into gear, or it does not and then I can adjust accordingly.  With 
>> friction it feels like it probably does not matter much since you move the 
>> shifter to get it to the right spot.  With the SunRace though, there is the 
>> ratchet mechanism and I wonder if it not allowing the shifter to stay in 
>> the position to hold the gear, but instead pulling ever so slightly to get 
>> into its, um, "naturally ratcheted position?"  Any suggestions would be 
>> appreciated, also any information on how I should set the derailer barrel 
>> adjuster and how to set the limits for friction shifting would appreciated. 
>>  I looked at things like Sheldon's page, but it seems a lot more geared to 
>> index shifting with an aside here or there on friction shifting.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bryan  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[Philip Kim]

I fit 42 with fenders fine with Paul Brakes. Other San Marcos on this list 
has 42 Marathons with SKS fenders.

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 9:27:01 PM UTC-5, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> Of course fff on a Surly but I was talking about the Soma San Marco, which 
> if I understand correctly Sean is now leaning towards.
>
> On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 6:46:03 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> According to Surly's web site  
>> http://surlybikes.com/bikes/straggler/frame_highlights
>>
>> *Tire Clearance*
>> *Our Fatties Fit Fine (FFF) stays and our beautiful slope-crowned custom 
>> fork provide room for tires up to 700c x 42mm! With fenders!*
>>
>>
>> On 01/06/2016 06:31 PM, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>
>> I don't think you can squeeze 42 mm tires with fenders. Soma's website 
>> states 38 mm without fenders 35 mm with. From what I can tell you can get 
>> the Straggler as a complete bike or a frame only.
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 4:48:59 PM UTC-5, 
>> se...@austin.utexas.edu wrote: 
>>>
>>> Thanks for the replies and feedback all! I am thinking the San Marcos 
 would probably be perfect. Up to this point, I am able to get the bars 
 high 
 enough on my LHT due to having an uncut steerer, but the quill stem 
 certainly would provide easier adjustment not to mention be more appealing 
 than a giant stack of spacers. Also, the lighter nature of the San Marcos 
 tubing is certainly appealing as well. If I can replicate the ride quality 
 of my old Ram, then it will probably be worth it. I'll have to double 
 check 
 the geometry, but I think with a dirt drop stem and some Alba/stache bars 
 it may be upright enough. Can't seem to handle drops anymore (currently 
 using Jones loop bars and love 'em). Looks like 42mm tires could be 
 squeezed in there too with fenders.

>>>
>>>
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using SunXCD Exceed cranks?

[Jan Heine]

The photo shows that the crank seated fairly deeply. It was well within the 
range of what's acceptable. Much deeper, and you run the risk of bottoming 
out the crank bolt. The taper has a very shallow angle, so even small 
variations in the taper cause big differences in how deep the crank seats. 
Since there are tolerances in the dimensions of both BB and crank, you need 
some margin for these tolerances. If you designed the system that the BB 
spindle comes within 1 mm of the end of the crank, you'd get 10% where the 
spindle is a tad small or the crank taper a tad large, and the spindle 
would extend beyond the  edge of the crank. The crank bolt would bottom 
out, and you couldn't tighten the crank properly.

It's hard to speculate about the reason for the failure. It's not a place 
where the crank gets stressed in use, only when mounting. It could be that 
the crank was tightened repeatedly by a previous owner, and thus pulled 
further and further onto the spindle, until it "burst". (Repeated 
tightening is not recommended - install the crank and tighten it once 50 
miles later. Then leave it alone. After 2 years or so, take it off, inspect 
it and reinstall it. But don't just tighten it every few months or so.) 
Another possible explanation is a flaw in the forging.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 11:57:38 AM UTC+9, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I think Peter's dead on, it may have not seated deeply enough, and I maybe 
> contact stresses were too high. 
>
>
> 
>
> or it may have just been seated too many times on too many tapers.  I 
> didn't know the age of it, it was a used ebay purchase.
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using SunXCD Exceed cranks?

[Ron Mc]

no worries Jan.  It was clearly fatigue cracking that started at the inside 
corners of the taper in the crank arm.  Also when I removed the drive side 
TA, I cleaned the tapers and dye-checked them.  There were no cracks, but 
there's also a lot more metal cross section there.  I'm pretty good about 
crank installation and torque.  I use grease and spanish cedar blocks to 
tap them on so I get good alignment, and have a really good indexing torque 
wrench (it's dial-vernier and clicks at the preset torque).  It was 
certainly not loose (which can cause cracking from uneven cyclic contact 
stress) - even cracked, there was no wobble until it quit full out.  I'm 
sure it was accumulated damage over its age.  I've bought 3 SKF BB from 
you, and would be the last person to badmouth them, so don't take this next 
observation wrong.  I have noticed both ISO (Campy Centaur) and JIS on the 
other two seem to have bigger square tapers than other spindles.  Out of 
the 3 cranks, the XD sits the deepest on them.  

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> The photo shows that the crank seated fairly deeply. It was well within 
> the range of what's acceptable. Much deeper, and you run the risk of 
> bottoming out the crank bolt. The taper has a very shallow angle, so even 
> small variations in the taper cause big differences in how deep the crank 
> seats. Since there are tolerances in the dimensions of both BB and crank, 
> you need some margin for these tolerances. If you designed the system that 
> the BB spindle comes within 1 mm of the end of the crank, you'd get 10% 
> where the spindle is a tad small or the crank taper a tad large, and the 
> spindle would extend beyond the  edge of the crank. The crank bolt would 
> bottom out, and you couldn't tighten the crank properly.
>
> It's hard to speculate about the reason for the failure. It's not a place 
> where the crank gets stressed in use, only when mounting. It could be that 
> the crank was tightened repeatedly by a previous owner, and thus pulled 
> further and further onto the spindle, until it "burst". (Repeated 
> tightening is not recommended - install the crank and tighten it once 50 
> miles later. Then leave it alone. After 2 years or so, take it off, inspect 
> it and reinstall it. But don't just tighten it every few months or so.) 
> Another possible explanation is a flaw in the forging.
>
> Jan Heine
> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
> www.compasscycle.com
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I Bailed Off Flicker

[Steve Palincsar]

On 01/07/2016 08:44 PM, Kieran J wrote:

Put some boiled wool on those cold (Flickr) feet, Deac!
C'mon - toe the line and be a sole survivor!





Very corny



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[RBW] Clem Rack Pannier rails?

[Zed Martinez]

Does anyone know the measurements for the Clem Rack pannier rails? I've 
been pondering adding some rails below the deck to my Surly Nice Rack like 
those do on the Clem one, and was curious if it might be worth considering 
getting them and some burly P-clamps for a modular solution rather than 
stripping the rack and spot welding some stainless tubing onto it as new 
rails. Any other suggestions? I know I could just get a Tubus Logo Evo, 
but, thought I'd try doing something clever for once rather than just 
swapping out. Plus, the Nice Rack has been good to me, it's just harder to 
use rear panniers now that I always have a giant Sackville living on it ;)

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[RBW] Re: Clem Rack Pannier rails?

[Zed Martinez]

Mostly, yeah, though how much they drop would be nice to know if not quite 
as important. How fat are they too? Normal rack diameter I assume?

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 10:44:42 PM UTC-5, iamkeith wrote:
>
> I have some.  What measurements are you looking for?  Just 
> center-to-center of the mounting holes?
>
> On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 8:17:27 PM UTC-7, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone know the measurements for the Clem Rack pannier rails? I've 
>> been pondering adding some rails below the deck to my Surly Nice Rack like 
>> those do on the Clem one, and was curious if it might be worth considering 
>> getting them and some burly P-clamps for a modular solution rather than 
>> stripping the rack and spot welding some stainless tubing onto it as new 
>> rails. Any other suggestions? I know I could just get a Tubus Logo Evo, 
>> but, thought I'd try doing something clever for once rather than just 
>> swapping out. Plus, the Nice Rack has been good to me, it's just harder to 
>> use rear panniers now that I always have a giant Sackville living on it ;)
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: A cool SILVER component they should make.

[Lungimsam]

Thanks for the pics and info , William! 

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[RBW] Re: 63cm Homer Hilsen For Sale

[Donald Funke]

Here's the pics.https://www.flickr.com/photos/organize/?start_tab=new_set

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 5:04:53 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> Some nasty medical expenses force sale of one of my favorite bikes
> 63cm Blue/Cream frame,paint in good/excellent condition
> 44cm Nitto noodles
> Shimano XT hubs
> Salsa Delgado rims
> Compass Barlow Pass 38mm tires
> SKS longboard fenders with honjo stays (comes with a used set of hammered 
> Honjos and the SKS stays)
> Brooks B17 (black)
> Silver long reach brakes
> Suguino triple crank
> Silver bar-end shifters (8 speed)
> 7 cm Nitto Techtomic stem
> $2,200
> Options:
> Sackville Handle bar bag with Nitto rack $200
> Schmidt Edulux headlight, SP-8 dyno hub, Spangia rear fender light $500
>

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[RBW] Re: I Bailed Off Flicker

[Leslie]

I started using Flickr specifically because of the RBW community, but have 
found it useful for holding other photo albums for sharing, regardless of 
my viewing of it: it's just a good place to stick pictures to then share 
here...


Such as, my son and his Rambouillet frame Christmas present:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/23946265090/in/album-72157623199721925/
 




On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 1:40:50 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Apparently I was a hit with people with barefoot fetiches, and I really 
> have no desire to be so. So I’ve deleted my account. I’m unsure, however, 
> how to share photos with you lot. Perhaps just in the posts themselves, or 
> on my blog. Time will tell, and I’m open to suggestions. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: All-City Space Horse, 61cm

[Keith Muller]

Bike is Sold

On Sunday, December 6, 2015 at 8:47:29 PM UTC-5, Keith Muller wrote:
>
> I am trying to sell my All-City Space Horse. His name is Stanley the 
> Cosmic Donkey! He's a great bike, but I bought a Rivendell Hunqapillar and 
> I don't ride him anymore. He has been well taken care of. I just recently 
> went through and overhauled everything. I replaced cassette, chain, 
> chainrings, rear derailleur, cables, housing, and brake pads. In replacing 
> all these parts I replaced them with brand new parts, not "new to me" parts!
>
>
> Build Specs:
>
> Frame/Fork - All-City Space Horse, 61cm
>
> Headset - Cane Creek 40
> BB - Shimano Ultegra
> Bar - Non-Branded Version of FSA Metropilis Bar
> Stem - Cannondale C2, 110mm, 31.8mm, 6 degree
> Grips - Ergon GS1
> Brake Levers - Paul Canti-Levers
> Shifters - Shimano Dura-Ace BS79 10-Speed Bar-end
> Thumbies - Paul Thumbies
> Brakes - Shimano CX70
> Crankset - Shimano CX70, 175mm, 46/34T
> Ft Der - Shimano 105 5700
> Rr Der - Shimano Ultegra 6700 GS
> Chain - Wipperman Connex 10S1, 10-speed
> Cassette - Shimano Ultegra 6700 11-28T, 10-Speed
> Saddle - Brooks B-17 Standard, Black
> Seatpost - Cannondale C2, 27.2mm
> Ft Hub - Shimano 105 5800, 36H, Black
> Rr Hub - Shimano 105 5700, 36H, Black
> Rims - Velocity Synergy, 36H, Black
> Spokes - DT Swiss Champion 2.0, Black
> Tires - Schwalbe Marathon Supreme, 700 x 35c
> Tubes - Q-Tubes, 700 x 35-43c
> Bottle Cage - Salsa Stainless Water Bottle Cage
> Rim Tape - Velox 16mm Cloth Rim Tape
> Rear Rack - Racktime Addit Rear Rack, Black
> Fenders - Civia Polycarbonate Fenders, 45mm
> No Pedals Included
>
>
> This bike has some pretty nice parts on it and is ready to ride everywhere 
> and all the time. I have not ridden the bike since I replace all the parts 
> and overhauled the bike. Tires have a have a ton of life left in them and 
> the Brooks saddle is perfectly worn in! I am asking $1300 for the complete 
> bike.  I live in the Washington, DC and could deliver the bike within a 
> reasonable distance.  To ship the bike via Bike Flights, I'm guessing it 
> would be about $60-$70.  Buyer would pay the actual shipping cost.  If I 
> don't have any offers for the complete bike in a couple weeks, I will 
> probably part the bike out and sell it in pieces.  
>
> Please message me with any questions or offers.  
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Rack Pannier rails?

[iamkeith]

I have some.  What measurements are you looking for?  Just center-to-center 
of the mounting holes?

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 8:17:27 PM UTC-7, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the measurements for the Clem Rack pannier rails? I've 
> been pondering adding some rails below the deck to my Surly Nice Rack like 
> those do on the Clem one, and was curious if it might be worth considering 
> getting them and some burly P-clamps for a modular solution rather than 
> stripping the rack and spot welding some stainless tubing onto it as new 
> rails. Any other suggestions? I know I could just get a Tubus Logo Evo, 
> but, thought I'd try doing something clever for once rather than just 
> swapping out. Plus, the Nice Rack has been good to me, it's just harder to 
> use rear panniers now that I always have a giant Sackville living on it ;)
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using SunXCD Exceed cranks?

[Jan Heine]

Ron,

I wasn't worried about the SKF BB's reputation, but just trying to figure 
out what could have happened to your poor crank. (I used to run a bunch of 
second-hand TAs without problems, but I switched to a René Herse on my 
Urban Bike as a precaution.) Interestingly, with the old TA crank tapers 
being JIS, that actually opens up a much larger range of suitable BBs.

The two tapers (JIS and ISO) are so close that you can get away with 
substituting JIS for ISO. We have several customers who run old Campagnolo 
Nuovo Record cranks (close to ISO taper) on JIS SKF bottom brackets. They 
use a 113 mm spindle instead of the 114.5, and that difference gives them 
the correct chainline (with a spacer to get the offset that the old Campy 
cranks required). The spindle penetrates 0.75 mm less into the crank, but 
that hasn't been a problem in practice. (Of course, we cannot officially 
recommend this.)

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 11:11:33 AM UTC+9, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> no worries Jan.  It was clearly fatigue cracking that started at the 
> inside corners of the taper in the crank arm.  [...]I've bought 3 SKF BB 
> from you, and would be the last person to badmouth them, so don't take this 
> next observation wrong.  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using SunXCD Exceed cranks?

[Joe Bunik]

Jan/Ron/all,
just a quick note, and I'll need to dredge the archives - but seem to
recall some scuttlebutt that the 1st batch of these XCD cranks had
breakage issues, and possibly were called back. I hope I am correct in
saying that!
=- Joe

On 1/7/16, Jan Heine  wrote:
> Ron,
>
> I wasn't worried about the SKF BB's reputation, but just trying to figure
> out what could have happened to your poor crank. (I used to run a bunch of
> second-hand TAs without problems, but I switched to a René Herse on my
> Urban Bike as a precaution.) Interestingly, with the old TA crank tapers
> being JIS, that actually opens up a much larger range of suitable BBs.
>
> The two tapers (JIS and ISO) are so close that you can get away with
> substituting JIS for ISO. We have several customers who run old Campagnolo
> Nuovo Record cranks (close to ISO taper) on JIS SKF bottom brackets. They
> use a 113 mm spindle instead of the 114.5, and that difference gives them
> the correct chainline (with a spacer to get the offset that the old Campy
> cranks required). The spindle penetrates 0.75 mm less into the crank, but
> that hasn't been a problem in practice. (Of course, we cannot officially
> recommend this.)
>
> Jan Heine
> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
> www.compasscycle.com
>
> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 11:11:33 AM UTC+9, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> no worries Jan.  It was clearly fatigue cracking that started at the
>> inside corners of the taper in the crank arm.  [...]I've bought 3 SKF BB
>> from you, and would be the last person to badmouth them, so don't take
>> this
>> next observation wrong.
>>
>
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[RBW] Tuning SunRace Thumbies

[masmojo]

Sorry, I have had similar experience,  mostly sorted out now, but a few 
questions. 
What gear set up?
What size bike?
The downside of really long chain stays and long bikes in general is a lack of 
rigidity,  I have little problem with my medium Clementine, it's pretty stout ( 
considering), but a large might be proportionally longer and the bottom bracket 
could deflect enough under load to get ghost shifting. 
you might check derailleur adjustment,  you've done enough miles now that cable 
stretch & overall seating of housing should be mostly over. 
One more thing to check would be the retention ring for the cassette, if it's 
not tight enough the cassette could be shifting slightly under load.
personally I feel like the Sun race shifters are so nice and I wonder how much 
it would take for them to just go ahead & make them Shimano index compatible. 
Or why can't Shimano just make thumb shifters again! My old Deore XT thumb 
shifters were SO nice! The rapid fire shifters work fine when they are new, but 
they get sloppy real fast. I am fixing a buddy of mines bike right now because 
his front shifter is not working properly; he took it to the local mega bike 
shop & they told him his chain was worn, sold him a new chain & told him his 
cassette needed changing too! None of that really, just stupid rapid fire 
shifters.
sorry ranted off topic there! ;-)

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[RBW] Ordered another Riv

[Joe Bernard]

The Appaloosa may turn out to be the elusive Perfect Bicycle. I snapped up the 
last 45cm Clem frameset yesterday and plan to be happy with it for many years, 
but I may still find room for a Joe in the not-too-distant future. They would 
look great together! ;)

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[RBW] Any Rivsters in the Vail Valley area?

[Chad]

Joe and Deacon, sounds like you are both only about 150 miles from me.  I'll be 
back in early March and likely a couple times this summer.  I've also got 
family in Colorado Springs and am there about every other year.  I'll be sure 
to look you guys up!

Chad in KC

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[RBW] Re: I Bailed Off Flicker

[Kieran J]

Put some boiled wool on those cold (Flickr) feet, Deac!
C'mon - toe the line and be a sole survivor!

KJ


On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 1:40:50 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Apparently I was a hit with people with barefoot fetiches, and I really 
> have no desire to be so. So I’ve deleted my account. I’m unsure, however, 
> how to share photos with you lot. Perhaps just in the posts themselves, or 
> on my blog. Time will tell, and I’m open to suggestions. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
>
>

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[RBW] Any interest in a pooled order for IRD Quick Release Downtube Cable Stops?

[Julian]

On one of the recent Rinko threads on the iBob list, the IRD Quick Release 
Downtube Cable Stop was mentioned. You can see them here: 
 http://store.interlocracing.com/irdquredocas.html

These would be ideal for S coupled bikes or Rinko bikes with bar-end or 
brifters. I'd like a pair for our S coupled Bilenky 650b tandem, but my 
local LBSs do not deal with IRD/Soma/Merry, and the IRD Soma websites have 
a $39.99 minimum order with a $15 flat freight charge for all orders under 
$99. That makes these stops way to costly to justify an order. 

If there are three or more other folks out there who'd like a set of these, 
I'd suggest we could do a group order. With 4 or more shipping to me would 
be free, and then I could USPS them to the others at actual cost -- which 
shouldn't be over $3 or $4. 

If you're interested in doing this contact me off list. 

Thanks, 

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 

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[RBW] Re: Back to the Drawing Board for Kid Bike

[johnboy]

Somafab sells bare frames and mini build kits for kids bikes- the Bart and 
Lisa models...

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 12:19:00 PM UTC-8, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> I bought my 1st grader a new Giant XTC 20 inch bike this summer, so that 
> he could master the 2.5 mile-each-way-all-uphill-on-the-way-back school 
> commute. The bike shop people said Giant makes Trek and Specialized, as 
> well as offer its own line of bikes. At half the cost and the promise of 
> similar (maybe equal) quality, the XTC won out. 
>
> My son doesn't complain, but I've really come to dislike that bike's 
> geometry. Every time I look at him, he's standing up and pedaling. Even on 
> flat areas. I rarely see him sit. I've asked him why and if the bike is 
> uncomfortable and he doesn't know how to tell me anything other than it's 
> more comfortable for him to stand. I don't remember him doing this on his 
> Specialized Hotrock in 16 inches. His knees look like they come up too high 
> as well. The tires are very wide, and I feel like his bike has drag on it 
> when I walk it out of the school bike rack to the school yard entrance. I 
> always have my other son's Specialized in the other hand, and it is 
> effortless. 
>
> So, every day, my younger son struggles up the hill on that Giant bike. 
> Meanwhile, my older son glides on his Specialized Hotrock 24 inches, and 
> only stands on the steepest part of the climb, which makes me feel so 
> rotten. If I had thought the Giant would be wrong, I'd have gladly spent 
> the extra money on the Specialized. I hate to toss more money into kids' 
> bikes, but since we use ours 5 miles per day, 5 days per week, I have to 
> consider it.
>
> I've seen positive remarks from the Bunch about Islabikes, but they are 
> spendy and I can find almost no info about them online. Seems a bit risky, 
> and I'm rather risk-adverse after my Giant purchase. 
>
> Riv content: Can the Clem and Clementine have a baby bike and we can call 
> it the Little Squirt? Please, Grant?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

[Abcyclehank]

I may be interested in your E if you decide to grab a jumbo Clem. Please 
contact me off list if you desire to explore options.

Sincerely,
Ryan from Michigan

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[RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[Utah]

Hi Sean,
I think the most important thing you have mentioned is that you want to 
rive very upright.  I own a cross check and an LHT.  I recently bought my 
wife a Rivendell (Betty Foy) because I could not get the cross check that I 
bought for her to be comfortable at all.  We almost bought the San Marcos 
but she liked the Betty better.

As you likely know the cross check is the same geometry as the straggler. 
 The primary problem they have is that they have a race geometry and a 
cyclocross race geometry at that.  The cyclocross geometry raises the 
bottom bracket a couple of centimeters so this in turn will put the rider 
in a higher position in relation to the bars which will make it feel like 
the bars are really low like a racing bike.  Look at the bottom bracket 
drop number for each bike.  The BB drop for the cross check will be much 
lower, meaning the cranks are higher off the ground (to clear logs and 
obstacles, etc.)

On the other hand, the Soma San Marcos has a really long head tube with a 
quill stem with will boost the handlebars way up!  

Here is a picture of my wife's (now my daughter's) cross check.

REB Cross Check 

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 9:38:38 AM UTC-7, se...@austin.utexas.edu 
wrote:
>
> Hi Group,
>
> I am contemplating a new bike build for long distance riding (centuries, 
> rando rides, etc.). I have neck issues so comfort is a must. I currently 
> ride and commute on a LHT with a very upright riding position. I'm 
> considering a Soma (Riv) San Marcos or a Surly 650B Straggler. Both 
> are appealing in different ways. As a former Rambouillet owner, I miss the 
> Riv geometry and liveliness but the Straggler has the ability to handle 
> 42mm tires and has brakes (of which I was a reluctant convert but now 
> love...I know..."retrogrouch heresy!").
>
> From a recent post it seems the San Marcos is very well regarded. Both 
> frames are 650B (needed for my short stature - frame size 50-52). Any one 
> have experience with both? Hard to find info/reviews on the 650B Straggler. 
> San Marcos might be a more lively long distance ride, but the disc brakes 
> and versatility of the Straggler sure is appealing. Would probably set both 
> up with pull back bars of some sort.
>
> Thanks for any insight!
>
> Sean
> ATX
>

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[RBW] Re: Ordered another Riv

[Utah]

I think the Appaloosa is A LOT like the old Stumpjumpers.  The really old 
stumpies LONG chain stays back in the early days.  I think that anyone that 
has an upright bar on an Atlantis would be really comfortable on the 
appaloosa due to the longer stays.  Love the colors and the fork crown!

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 12:17:53 AM UTC-7, stonehog wrote:
>
> Due to the inescapable need for my fire horse wife to have a 
> "horse-themed" bike, as well as the awesome blue color fitting into her 
> preferences, I ordered her a 51cm Appaloosa today.  She still says her 
> favorite bike is the '91 Stumpjumper Pro, so this will be like a more 
> stately steed that can take us on many an adventure in the future. 
>
> Can't wait...
>
> p.s. - I also noticed a nearly hidden reference to a forthcoming "Clem Pt 
> 2" which is a TANDEM CLEM!!! on the Riv email that went out today...
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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[RBW] Re: Ordered another Riv

[hsmitham]

And the original Stumpjumper was a LOT like the Ritchey/Padgett bikes. Just 
saying.

~Hugh

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 9:06:01 PM UTC-8, Utah wrote:
>
> I think the Appaloosa is A LOT like the old Stumpjumpers.  The really old 
> stumpies LONG chain stays back in the early days.  I think that anyone that 
> has an upright bar on an Atlantis would be really comfortable on the 
> appaloosa due to the longer stays.  Love the colors and the fork crown!
>
> On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 12:17:53 AM UTC-7, stonehog wrote:
>>
>> Due to the inescapable need for my fire horse wife to have a 
>> "horse-themed" bike, as well as the awesome blue color fitting into her 
>> preferences, I ordered her a 51cm Appaloosa today.  She still says her 
>> favorite bike is the '91 Stumpjumper Pro, so this will be like a more 
>> stately steed that can take us on many an adventure in the future. 
>>
>> Can't wait...
>>
>> p.s. - I also noticed a nearly hidden reference to a forthcoming "Clem Pt 
>> 2" which is a TANDEM CLEM!!! on the Riv email that went out today...
>>
>> Brian Hanson
>> Seattle, WA
>> Bike Blog 
>> @stonehog
>> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

[Deacon Patrick]

Need to? No. Chose to? Yes. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 11:46:24 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com 
wrote:
>
> You didn't need to delete...
>

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[RBW] Re: I bought a Clem!

[El Sapo]

It's a quality ride Joe. You're going to love it. 

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 3:00:04 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:

> Whelp, this wasn't quite the plan to start the new year (SPOILER: I didn't 
> have one). The Riv email this week alerted me that there might be a few 
> 45cm Clem frames still in stock, then no more 45s for an age or two. Well 
> this creaky old guy prefers the low stepover of that bike, and I have 
> oodles of parts that will fit it. Will thought the two colors left were 
> green and grey, so asked me which I preferred. Tough question! I landed on 
> green and lo and behold, they had one frame left...green! SOLD!
>
> PS. I have a touch of Aspergers, and my major achille's heel is talking on 
> the phone..I reeeally don't like it. Will couldn't have been kinder or more 
> easy to talk to. I can't emphasize enough how much that's appreciated. 
>
> Joe "leave a message at the beep" Bernard
> Vallejo, CA. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

[Eric Norris]

Gotta love the Deacon ...

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--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Jan 7, 2016, at 10:46 AM, cyclotourist  wrote:
> 
> You didn't need to delete, especially as flickr is such a great
> repository of images. Just set your account to private. And then you
> can share links where you see fit (like here!).
> 
>> On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 10:40 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>> Apparently I was a hit with people with barefoot fetiches, and I really have 
>> no desire to be so. So I’ve deleted my account. I’m unsure, however, how to 
>> share photos with you lot. Perhaps just in the posts themselves, or on my 
>> blog. Time will tell, and I’m open to suggestions.
>> 
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>> 
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>> www.OurHolyConception.org
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cheers,
> David
> 
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
> 
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
> 
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[RBW] Re: Ordered another Riv

[dougP]

Brian:

I wouldn't be surprised if her new favorite bike changed after some time on 
the Appaloosa.  Keep us posted on that issue.  I can hear it now:  "Now I 
get why you get all fizzed up about this Rivendell thing."  You're a good 
man.

dougP

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 11:17:53 PM UTC-8, stonehog wrote:
>
> Due to the inescapable need for my fire horse wife to have a 
> "horse-themed" bike, as well as the awesome blue color fitting into her 
> preferences, I ordered her a 51cm Appaloosa today.  She still says her 
> favorite bike is the '91 Stumpjumper Pro, so this will be like a more 
> stately steed that can take us on many an adventure in the future. 
>
> Can't wait...
>
> p.s. - I also noticed a nearly hidden reference to a forthcoming "Clem Pt 
> 2" which is a TANDEM CLEM!!! on the Riv email that went out today...
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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[RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

[Deacon Patrick]

Apparently I was a hit with people with barefoot fetiches, and I really have no 
desire to be so. So I’ve deleted my account. I’m unsure, however, how to share 
photos with you lot. Perhaps just in the posts themselves, or on my blog. Time 
will tell, and I’m open to suggestions.

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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RE: [RBW] Christmas Clementine

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

I used a regular stainless Allen bolt (a looong one, like 30mm) with a washer 
on the inside of the fender to spread the stress and a leather washer between 
the fender and the long nylon spacer that the bolt went through to arrive at 
the tapped downward facing hole in the seatstay bridge.  I didn't worry about 
spacing considerations inside the fender because with the (relatively) small 
42mm Hetres there was plenty of room under the fenders.

BTW, the bridges seemed perfectly equidistant on this frame.  Fenders mounted 
up very nicely.



From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 9:57 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Christmas Clementine


On 12/29/2015 09:34 AM, 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote:
It may be vastly better, but I have to report never having had an issue with 
the bracket style mount. Nevertheless, since I do not have that option, I seek 
advice. What type of bolt head do people use so as to create the least 
protrusion in the middle of the inside of the fender?

Something like this is nice:

[cid:image001.jpg@01D1496A.F2266AA0]



Leather washer goes between outside of fender and seat stay.


Pudge, what did you use for the Clementine above? Did you use a leather washer 
between the fender and what looks like a long aluminum spacer?  (The other nice 
thing about the bracket besides no protruding hardware inside the fender is it 
gives you a bit of latitude in adjusting the fender line at this contact point, 
both laterally and vertically. With the vastly better option, you need to 
figure it out and measure twice, cut once.)

You have to attach a bracket to the fender, and either you bolt the bracket to 
the fender, in which case the hardware to do that protrudes inside the fender, 
or you clamp it around the edges and no matter how tightly you do that it can 
(and as these things go, if it can it will) move over time, giving rise to 
rattles and changing the fender line.  What's more, a bracket can't be as solid 
a mount as directly screwing it into the seat stay bridge or to an eye bolt 
inside the fork crown.  That, plus the fact that it looks much better without 
brackets, is why "vastly better."

As for "figure it out and measure it twice," that is how it is with metal 
fenders.  It's much easier now than it was 10 years ago, since most metal 
fenders of this type now come pre-drilled for the stays.  Back in the day, they 
never did, and you had to mount, mark, remove, drill, reinstall, mark, remove, 
drill, reinstall etc., several times.  Even with brackets, to a large extent 
this is still the way it is.  You can't do all your measuring at one time, 
because once you mount the first mount things change.  It's a Zen kind of thing 
that requires patience and zero sense of urgency: it will take however long it 
takes, and it cannot be hurried.


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The sender of this email is a retired partner of Skadden Arps and is not 
performing legal service on behalf of Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher & Flom LLP 
& Affiliates. Use by a retired partner of the skadden.com or probonolaw.com 
domain names is in his/her personal capacity and not on behalf of Skadden, 
Arps, Slate, Meagher & Flom LLP & Affiliates.

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[RBW] Re: I Bailed Off Flicker

[Daniel D.]

ROFL, 

>
>

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[RBW] Re: I Bailed Off Flicker

[Philip Williamson]

I'm only on Flickr to respond to comments on my pictures that I'm notified 
of. I don't go there anymore to post or browse, but I push some Instagram 
images through to it. 

Instagram is nice for a small number of pictures at a time, if you've got a 
smartphone. 
Your own blog is better for sets, stories, and longer ramblings.

Philip 
www.biketinker.com 

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 10:40:50 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Apparently I was a hit with people with barefoot fetiches, and I really 
> have no desire to be so. So I’ve deleted my account. I’m unsure, however, 
> how to share photos with you lot. Perhaps just in the posts themselves, or 
> on my blog. Time will tell, and I’m open to suggestions. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

[sameness]

Talk about putting your foot in your mouth.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 1:39:49 PM UTC-8, Mojo wrote:
>
> Deacon,
>
> Do not accept de feet on de flickr!
> Sorry, sorry.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Back to the Drawing Board for Kid Bike

[Andrew Drummond]

I'd definitely have the shop take a look, but I have to put my two cents in 
about Islabikes. My seven year old has a 24" Beinn, and loves it. It's light, 
well-made, and fits perfectly. It made her want to ride a bike again, after 
being burdened with a mid-80s Schwinn that weighs more than any of my bikes. 

We live in Portland, so we got to go to the islabikes shop and get her fitted, 
but they know what they're doing and I'm sure they can fit over the 
phone/email. It was relatively expensive, but it'll hold its value, and we'll 
do ok selling it when it's time for a bigger model. Islabikes has a trade-in 
program, but the guy at the shop actually told us we'd be better off selling it 
ourselves (like pretty much everything else, I guess!). 

The one bummer about the bike is that they wouldn't let me take the bike home 
unassembled the day I bought it - they insisted on assembling it themselves, 
and while they did a mostly good job (some screws were a bit loose) my daughter 
was pretty antsy for a few days. Probably not an issue if you aren't local, 
though. 

Lastly, if he's riding 5 miles a day 5 days a week, I'd say it's worth the 
money. 

Andrew 

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Re: [RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

['Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Deacon,

Do not accept de feet on de flickr!
Sorry, sorry.

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Re: [RBW] I Bailed Off Flicker

[Amit Singh]

Deacon,

Come back to Flickr. The community needs you and the pictures of your bicycles. 
Maybe just delete the pictures of your feet? :)

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