[RBW] Re: PSA: 60cm Quickbeam on eBay

[adam leibow]

some of you guys are psycho. i literally see zero evidence of rust in any 
of the photos, and it is barely mentioned in the description. 

On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 5:44:00 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/rivendell-quickbeam-singlespeed-bicycle-60-cm-nitto-phil-wood-honjo-brooks-/391772091525
>

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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Joe Bernard]

It's a bizarre coincidence that got me to open it. I'd had a problem with an 
ebike component so I sent it back..much emails..they fixed it and it just got 
back here a couple days ago. So when their address showed up this afternoon 
with a doc to open, I figured it was a warranty doc or something. It's 
completely random that the one address I wouldn't think was odd for this right 
now is the one that hit me. Computer age!

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[RBW] Re: Shop Sack Durability

[Timothy Orr]

Thanks sharing, Bob, Tony and Mark. It's a pretty small hole, so I'm sure the 
bag will last for many years to come. Even if I have to test my hand stitching 
skills. 

Cheers,
Tim
Portland,OR

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[RBW] Re: small saddlesack weight tolerance

[drew]

I think the small saddlesack is perhaps the most perfect bike bag for regular, 
non tour, non full change of clothes riding. My wife has absconded with my 
olive small, and im having a bit of an existential crisis in whether to go for 
the blue small or the blue medium. 

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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Deacon Patrick]

Here's the details:
http://www.macworld.com/article/3194366/security/sneaky-gmail-phishing-attack-fools-with-fake-google-docs-app.html#tk.rss_all

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:40:19 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> There's a massive phishing operation going on. If you see something from 
> me or any other list member requestion to open a Google Doc, don't touch it!

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[RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

[Deacon Patrick]

Ha! Floor living keeps one lithe, so it's no big deal to flip my heel over 
the top tube. I've no idea how much it weighs. I was surprised how smooth 
going it was though. Strap around the seat post from the top strap 
stabilized everything. The trick is to spin up the hills, too much torque 
and the off-set flext of the load fells really bad on vertigo (a lesson I 
learned previously, so no issue on this ride.). I'm a young whooper 
snapper, born in '71. I just look old and ugly. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick 

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 8:38:30 PM UTC-6, GAJett wrote:
>
> AWESOME!
> So to mount.  
> Do you lean the bike over and step over? 
> Swing your leg over the handlebars? or 
> Swing your leg over the back ;-)
>
> Rack and panniers?  OMG, what's the total weight? 
>
> And did you make it home?  Safely?
>
> Deacon, I hope I can keep up when I'm your age (or I already am your age, 
> or beyond, and am falling behind already!  THAT would be an off-line 
> discussion).
> Cheers!
>
> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 10:54:49 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> RBW Content, so no longer off topic! Here's (5) 1"x6"x8' and (3) 2"x6"x8' 
>> pine boards, cut in half and hauled in panniers (pus bits in the saddle 
>> bag). 
>> http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-into-hand-powered-woodworking/
>>
>> On Saturday, April 29, 2017 at 4:43:23 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> Well, I've certainly got enough "simple" coming my way next week to get 
>>> me in trouble for a very long time trying to catch up with it! Grin. 
>>> Sharpening: yes. Core. Essential. Basics. Takes five minutes to begin, a 
>>> lifetime to learn. One of the things I've learned is that once I have the 
>>> basics I have to learn the basics. And when I "need" more to advance, that 
>>> usually means I need to return to the basics and get better at them 
>>> instead. Grin. I have found this universally true, in marriage, prayer, 
>>> faith, footwear, furniture, cooking, biking, running, parenting... ... ... 
>>> Grin.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Sam Hillborne

[Reid Echols]

Sizing seems perfect so far; feels like the best fit of any bike I've ridden. I 
had a donor bike standing by and a great rainy Saturday to complete the build. 
Thanks again! 

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[RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

[GAJett]

AWESOME!
So to mount.  
Do you lean the bike over and step over? 
Swing your leg over the handlebars? or 
Swing your leg over the back ;-)

Rack and panniers?  OMG, what's the total weight? 

And did you make it home?  Safely?

Deacon, I hope I can keep up when I'm your age (or I already am your age, 
or beyond, and am falling behind already!  THAT would be an off-line 
discussion).
Cheers!

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 10:54:49 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> RBW Content, so no longer off topic! Here's (5) 1"x6"x8' and (3) 2"x6"x8' 
> pine boards, cut in half and hauled in panniers (pus bits in the saddle 
> bag). 
> http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-into-hand-powered-woodworking/
>
> On Saturday, April 29, 2017 at 4:43:23 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Well, I've certainly got enough "simple" coming my way next week to get 
>> me in trouble for a very long time trying to catch up with it! Grin. 
>> Sharpening: yes. Core. Essential. Basics. Takes five minutes to begin, a 
>> lifetime to learn. One of the things I've learned is that once I have the 
>> basics I have to learn the basics. And when I "need" more to advance, that 
>> usually means I need to return to the basics and get better at them 
>> instead. Grin. I have found this universally true, in marriage, prayer, 
>> faith, footwear, furniture, cooking, biking, running, parenting... ... ... 
>> Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: small saddlesack weight tolerance

['Mobile Bill' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Shoji
   Thanks for that observation and suggestions. This being my 30-year-old 
56cm-ish Trek, rather than my 59cm-ish Rivs, I've got more than fistful of 
saddle post...but I like the clipboard idea, and will put it to use.
Bill

On Sunday, April 30, 2017 at 8:00:53 PM UTC-5, Mobile Bill wrote:
>
> I should just take the plunge...but prefer to do so with the advice of 
> those who have used them.
> A small saddlesack seems the perfect fit for my one rackless bicycle, 
> which like all my bikes does a good bit of commuting and shopping.
> While the size is about right for everything I might stuff in it, I wonder 
> about its capacity for holding weight, even with the illustrious corruplast 
> bottom.
> Could it, for example, hold a kryptonite lock along with a six bottles of 
> beer (artfully arranged) without serious sagging?
>

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[RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Surlyprof]

I used to double wrap tape to boost the simension but, last time I was at Riv, 
they had some that looked even thicker.  They were wrap Newbaum's over either 
industrial felt of foam tape.  I tried it and I like it.  Can't bring myself to 
wrap Newbaum's over dutch grips like Grant was doing recently.  Wrap and let 
wrap.

John

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Re: [RBW] FS- Shimano Deore LX dynamo wheelset with E6 Schmidt light.

[alan lavine]

Price dropped to $250.

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 8:13:23 AM UTC-4, alan lavine wrote:
>
> Got it, thanks.  Will adjust price accordingly.
>
> On May 3, 2017, at 7:32 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
> Yes.  It's totally plug-and-play.
>
> On 05/03/2017 07:05 AM, Alan Lavine wrote:
>
> Can this dynamo be used with the newer lights? 
>
> On May 3, 2017, at 7:02 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>
>
> On 05/03/2017 06:53 AM, alan lavine wrote:
>
> Hello to all. 
> This wheelset and light set came on a bike bought on this forum and I have 
> no use for a dynamo light.  It all works fine, tried it before 
> disconnecting. Dynamo is DH-T660-3N model.
> Rims are Mavic A319 36H, hubs are smooth as silk, but there is some slight 
> damage to the drive side spokes on the rear wheel.  Looks like the chain 
> got jammed between the spokes and the large cog.  Not serious and these 
> wheels are bomb-proof but if you're picky about things you may want to 
> change them out.
>
> The E 6 light (and extra bulbs) is called by Peter White the hands down 
> best dynamo light. 
>
>
> That was true quite some time ago.  Technology has marched on, and the 
> performance of the E6 has been vastly exceeded by LED lights.  The beam of 
> the E6, although bright, is shaped like a light sabre.  The current LED 
> lights' beams are more like automobile headlights.   Basically, the E6 is 
> obsolete.
>
>
>  I have zero experience with dynamo lights and I understand these are no 
> longer available.  I also have an on/off switch but don't know how to mount 
> it, so I'll let you do that. Comes with a wire like mounting bracket for 
> the fork crown.
>
> Price? I'm thinking $275 shipped via Bikeflights  (if local 225). If this 
> is way off, let me know.  If its too cheap you can throw in a B17 or 
> Rivet...hah!
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Sam Hillborne

[Mattt]

No.  He purchased just the frame.  The parts for sale still is the front wheel, 
the wolf tooth chainring, pedals, and two sv17 schwable tubes.

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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Bill Lindsay]

My recommendation is do not tuck.  If you are afraid it's going to unravel, 
and want to avoid that, then have somebody who has done it many times wrap 
your bars for you.  The more times you do it the better you will get at it. 
 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 4:54:53 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
>  Hi Bill, 
>
> What you last mentioned I did not think of until I finally finish putting 
> everything together.  I was rebuilding this bicycle and put all the parts 
> together and said, well, now it is time to wrap the bars and realize that 
> all the video's are wrapped with handlebars without bar end silver 
> shifters.  If I follow the recommendations in the video's, it would appear 
> I need to remove the bar end shifters just to wrap them and then, tuck, 
> them into the bar end with shifters but as I mentioned before, they are 
> thick and probably would have issues just putting that cork wrap in and 
> keeping it tight since it is a wedge connection.  I am not sure how secure 
> it would be, or if I am being a little to conservative, if I do as 
> recommended by not tucking it in and using a razor blade to cut the 
> access.  I do not want them to unravel down the road if I did not tuck it 
> in.
>
> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 7:05 PM, Bill Lindsay  > wrote:
>
>> I use cloth tape exclusively now, but I wrapped many hundreds or 
>> thousands of bars with chubby tape (cork and fake-cork variants) in my past 
>> life working at bike shops.  With chubby tape, I recommend you still start 
>> at the bottom and that you still do not tuck any in the end.  It's natural 
>> to want to avoid that bulge on the end, so you do one of two things.  
>>
>> 1.  Overhang the first half-wrap or so AS IF you were going to tuck it 
>> in.  Don't tuck it in.  When you are done, use a sharp xacto blade to slice 
>> it off.  
>> 2.  Cut a wedge shaped end to your tape, so it's got a nice cut edge to 
>> line up with the end of the bar on that first wrap around.   
>>
>> I always wrap the bars with the barcon shifters OUT.  If you insist on 
>> wrapping the bars with the barcon shifters installed, then you should use 
>> method #2.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 12:43:35 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>>>
>>> I have seen that one, Bob and Wally, but I wanted to know if people did 
>>> that using cork wrap tape.  That is thicker than the canvas cloth used in 
>>> the video.
>>>
>>> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 2:49 PM, Wally Estrella  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Same here.  I don't do it enough to remember it and getting to old to 
 try ;)


 On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:57:31 PM UTC-4, Bob K. wrote:
>
> I watch this video from Riv every time I wrap bars:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO8DcaOJzrA
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore
>
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>>>
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>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Sam Hillborne

[Stephen D]

Great bike sold at a very fair price. It appears that the entire build 
sold, but just wanted to clarify if any of the individual components listed 
above at individual prices are still for sale.

Best,
Stephen

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 2:02:01 PM UTC-4, Mattt wrote:
>
> Looks great Reid. You did a quick buld that came out beautiful.  How did 
> the sizing turn out for you?   With shipping from OKC to Austin, it 
> happened to be overnight.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Lee Legrand]

 Hi Bill,

What you last mentioned I did not think of until I finally finish putting
everything together.  I was rebuilding this bicycle and put all the parts
together and said, well, now it is time to wrap the bars and realize that
all the video's are wrapped with handlebars without bar end silver
shifters.  If I follow the recommendations in the video's, it would appear
I need to remove the bar end shifters just to wrap them and then, tuck,
them into the bar end with shifters but as I mentioned before, they are
thick and probably would have issues just putting that cork wrap in and
keeping it tight since it is a wedge connection.  I am not sure how secure
it would be, or if I am being a little to conservative, if I do as
recommended by not tucking it in and using a razor blade to cut the
access.  I do not want them to unravel down the road if I did not tuck it
in.

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 7:05 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I use cloth tape exclusively now, but I wrapped many hundreds or thousands
> of bars with chubby tape (cork and fake-cork variants) in my past life
> working at bike shops.  With chubby tape, I recommend you still start at
> the bottom and that you still do not tuck any in the end.  It's natural to
> want to avoid that bulge on the end, so you do one of two things.
>
> 1.  Overhang the first half-wrap or so AS IF you were going to tuck it
> in.  Don't tuck it in.  When you are done, use a sharp xacto blade to slice
> it off.
> 2.  Cut a wedge shaped end to your tape, so it's got a nice cut edge to
> line up with the end of the bar on that first wrap around.
>
> I always wrap the bars with the barcon shifters OUT.  If you insist on
> wrapping the bars with the barcon shifters installed, then you should use
> method #2.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 12:43:35 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>>
>> I have seen that one, Bob and Wally, but I wanted to know if people did
>> that using cork wrap tape.  That is thicker than the canvas cloth used in
>> the video.
>>
>> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 2:49 PM, Wally Estrella 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Same here.  I don't do it enough to remember it and getting to old to
>>> try ;)
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:57:31 PM UTC-4, Bob K. wrote:

 I watch this video from Riv every time I wrap bars:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO8DcaOJzrA

 Bob K. in Baltimore

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>>
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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Bill Lindsay]

I use cloth tape exclusively now, but I wrapped many hundreds or thousands 
of bars with chubby tape (cork and fake-cork variants) in my past life 
working at bike shops.  With chubby tape, I recommend you still start at 
the bottom and that you still do not tuck any in the end.  It's natural to 
want to avoid that bulge on the end, so you do one of two things.  

1.  Overhang the first half-wrap or so AS IF you were going to tuck it in. 
 Don't tuck it in.  When you are done, use a sharp xacto blade to slice it 
off.  
2.  Cut a wedge shaped end to your tape, so it's got a nice cut edge to 
line up with the end of the bar on that first wrap around.   

I always wrap the bars with the barcon shifters OUT.  If you insist on 
wrapping the bars with the barcon shifters installed, then you should use 
method #2.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 12:43:35 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> I have seen that one, Bob and Wally, but I wanted to know if people did 
> that using cork wrap tape.  That is thicker than the canvas cloth used in 
> the video.
>
> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 2:49 PM, Wally Estrella  > wrote:
>
>> Same here.  I don't do it enough to remember it and getting to old to try 
>> ;)
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:57:31 PM UTC-4, Bob K. wrote:
>>>
>>> I watch this video from Riv every time I wrap bars:
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO8DcaOJzrA
>>>
>>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>>>
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>
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[RBW] Re: Clem saddle OR saddles under 40$

[Johnny Alien]

WTB Rocket saddle is not only a super affordable saddle but it is a really 
really good saddle too. 

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[RBW] Re: Wrapping handlebars

[Johnny Alien]

Yep...that Riv video is how I do mine. No tucking involved.

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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Joe Bernard]

Jeff, I tried Manage Apps. Google Docs is not listed as an app I use. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wrapping handlebars

[René Sterental]

The principles are the same, but the cork tape is going to be a lot thicker
and in my own experience, while not much harder to wrap, it has a higher
tendency to become unwrapped or slip along the handlebars on its own during
use. I much prefer leather tape, and from the available choices, the best
one I've tried is the Compass Cycles version, which is made from a single
strip of leather (Brooks leather has two strips at least, glued to each
other, and the junction is ugly). It is also super soft and supple to wrap.

René

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 1:56 PM, Robert Keal  wrote:

> Lee,
>
> Sorry 'bout that. I read your initial post too quickly!
>
> Bob
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Tim Butterfield]

It's a very good idea to never open the unexpected attachment without
validation first.  For reference, the Docusign phish emails I received
yesterday look like this in gmail:

Header:
[image: Inline image 3]

Body of email:
[image: Inline image 1]



On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 3:30 PM, Lee Legrand  wrote:

> I never opened the doc because it looks so suspicious.  Why would you send
> me a document and I hardly know you and it is not listed as part of any
> group.  Thats why I never opened it.
>
> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 6:14 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> That's a good idea, Patrick. Thanks!
>>
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>
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[RBW] Re: Clem saddle OR saddles under 40$

[drew]

THANKS!

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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Tim Butterfield]

There are tradeoffs with password storage approaches.  1Password lets you
store them locally instead of in the cloud on a server controlled by
someone else.  LastPass stores them in the cloud, but the browser
extensions validate the URL before recognizing the site for filling in the
login page fields.

Keep in mind that some URLs look valid, but are not.  Refer to this article
for more information on unicode phishing.
https://www.wordfence.com/blog/2017/04/chrome-firefox-unicode-phishing/

Tim

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 3:10 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> As a start, you may want to change your Google password. I use 1Password,
> which makes managing unique passwords ridiculously simple. Passwords look
> like this, even for one off sites I register with for whatever reason: 
> xfrNemjHZWnAdFU3qUzQWXDN
> (not actually a password to anything, just showing an example).
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 4:07:53 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Leah: I never figured out a fix, I assume it finally stopped bouncing to
>> every damn person I've ever emailed. It's very upsetting.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Lee Legrand]

I never opened the doc because it looks so suspicious.  Why would you send
me a document and I hardly know you and it is not listed as part of any
group.  Thats why I never opened it.

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 6:14 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> That's a good idea, Patrick. Thanks!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Jeff Lesperance]

Joe - you likely need to take further action - you can read more about the
mechanics of this phishing attack here:

https://www.theverge.com/2017/5/3/15534768/google-docs-phishing-attack-share-this-document-with-you-spam

Where details about removing access to the offending app are detailed as
follows:

If you’ve clicked the link, your account may have already sent spam
messages to the people in your address book. But you can revoke future
access through Google’s “Connected Apps and Sites
” page; where it
will appear as “Google Docs.”
[image: Google Docs phishing access]



On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 6:07 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Leah: I never figured out a fix, I assume it finally stopped bouncing to
> every damn person I've ever emailed. It's very upsetting.
>
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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Joe Bernard]

That's a good idea, Patrick. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Deacon Patrick]

As a start, you may want to change your Google password. I use 1Password, 
which makes managing unique passwords ridiculously simple. Passwords look 
like this, even for one off sites I register with for whatever 
reason: xfrNemjHZWnAdFU3qUzQWXDN (not actually a password to anything, just 
showing an example).

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 4:07:53 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Leah: I never figured out a fix, I assume it finally stopped bouncing to 
> every damn person I've ever emailed. It's very upsetting. 

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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Joe Bernard]

Leah: I never figured out a fix, I assume it finally stopped bouncing to every 
damn person I've ever emailed. It's very upsetting. 

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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[LeahFoy]

Checked out the Junk folder and indeed there was a Google Doc email from you, 
Joe. Creepy! What did you have to do to fix this?

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[RBW] Re: Clem saddle OR saddles under 40$

[Garth]

Here is the model I believe :

Velo Plush Tour E-Grip Men's Saddle


https://www.amazon.com/Velo-Plush-Tour-Grip-Saddle/dp/B01N97ZIAM




On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 4:19:27 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> Having a hard time finding what saddle was included on the first complete 
> clem builds. I remember it had bag loops, right? 
>
> While we are at it, are there any other current offerings that people like 
> in the cheap saddle category. I've been on the brooks train long enough to 
> have not kept up, but my friend cant fathom spending 100$ on a bike seat, 
> and i'd like to put something on his bike that he wont hate, and will sort 
> of go with the rivish build i put together. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: XT RD-M773 (long cage, 10 spd.), Surly Stainless Seatpost Clamp (black)

[Bob K.]

Both racks are sold. See below for what's left. Thanks!

> Pictures: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUhwf96
>
>>
>> *XT RD-M773 (long cage)*--*$35 shipped/OBO*--I bought this from a list 
>> member a few weeks back for my new Troll, but I decided to go a different 
>> direction. Slight wear from (I assume) installing/uninstalling the rear 
>> wheel.
>>
>> *Surly Stainless (black) seatpost clamp, 30mm clamp diameter*--*$15 
>> shipped OBO*--This came with my Troll. It's new take-off. I replaced it 
>> with a gold one because gold is pretty.  Save a few bucks off retail ($20 
>> shipped) and help me fund the rack.
>>
>
Thanks,

Bob K. in Baltimore 

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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Joe Bernard]

I got one from a bike company that had just shipped me something, so I thought 
it was paperwork for it. I tried to open it and suddenly my email blew up with 
people asking me why I was sending them stuff. Not fun!

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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[dougP]

Thanks for the heads-up.  Got one in my spam folder.  

dougP

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 12:40:19 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> There's a massive phishing operation going on. If you see something from 
> me or any other list member requestion to open a Google Doc, don't touch it!

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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[sameness]

Great, now I'm afraid my Google account is going to get hija

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wrapping handlebars

[Robert Keal]

 Lee,

Sorry 'bout that. I read your initial post too quickly!

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Hub Area Rack, with non-Riv bags...can I?

[Ed Carolipio]

I've got the Ortlieb front roller classic with the QL2.1 system. (Sorry at 
work can't take a photo but here's a link 
 
for now.) I've got the top hooks separated almost all the way, and the 
bottom hook is close to one corner (of that "smiley" track on lower part of 
the rear.)

My experience with panniers is that the back is relatively flat with all 
the mounting mechanisms sticking out, and for mounting there are two 
"hooks" up top then some mechanism to stabilize the bottom from swinging 
away from the rack. Fit comes down to three things for non-disc brake* 
forks:

   - The three "touch points" on the bag line up with places on the rack 
   where those touch points can attach.
   - The mechanism for the three touch points on the bag fit snugly where 
   they attach to the rack. (On the Ortlieb, the manufacturer provides plastic 
   spacers to adjust the hook opening to the diameter of the rack, while the 
   opening of the bottom hook varies along its length plus it can rotate. More 
   common is a bungee/metal hook combo.)
   - The bag is positioned in such a way that there's no interface around 
   it. For the front, that's most likely the distance between the bottom of 
   the bag with the floor, but the top of the bag could interfere with the 
   brake/brake cable or front bag/basket if it's tall enough.

*[Having a disc brake means the caliper is bracketed by the front rack. I 
didn't have issues with fit, but I found I had to set the pannier a certain 
way to make it easy to put and take off.]

So, the HAR seems like it would work well with the standard 3-point, 
rear-is-flat, small-ish pannier bags. Here, small-ish here is that the bag 
doesn't extend much beyond those touch points. You can use the Ortlieb 
sport roller bag  - the 
front roller is discontinued - as a template to compare the pannier bags 
you're considering.


--Ed

On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 2:24:40 PM UTC-7, Neil Doran wrote:
>
> I'm back to adding front bags to my Sam. I searched, but did not find info 
> on whether the HAR will accept non-Riv bags, such as Lone Peak or Swift.
>
> I understand Ortleib will work, and saw the thread about adding their 
> mounting hardware to Riv bags, but not interested in that solution.
>
> Anybody with first-hand knowledge of fitting non-Riv bags to the HAR?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Neil
>

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[RBW] Re: Wrapping handlebars

[LBleriot]

Wrap up from the end leaving a bit to tuck so as to avoid that unsightly 
bulge.

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 10:43:52 AM UTC-4, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I rebuilt but I wanted to 
> ask a question about the ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and typically 
> youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar ends but tucked into 
> the ends with plugs.  My question is, how is it typically done when using 
> bar end shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do you tape it at 
> the ends with electric tape or is it do able to tuck it in with bar 
> shifters?
>
> Thanks,
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Tim Butterfield]

If you don't have 2 factor authentication on your google related accounts,
you can add that here:
https://www.google.com/landing/2step/

Tim

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 1:15 PM, Chris Birkenmaier 
wrote:

> I was going to PM you to see if you were sending me something.  Glad I
> didn't touch it.  thanks for the heads up
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 3:40:19 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> There's a massive phishing operation going on. If you see something from
>> me or any other list member requestion to open a Google Doc, don't touch it!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem saddle OR saddles under 40$

[Bill Lindsay]

I liked the stock saddle that came on the initial batch of Appaloosa 
completes, which I believe is the same saddle that came on the Clem.  That 
saddle was a Velo model.  Grant told me it was a model intended for 
e-bikes. It did not have loops, but did have a handle that I used as loops. 
 It can be seen on several of the Riv Special complete bikes.  I bet if you 
called them and said you want to buy a Clem saddle, they would find one to 
sell you.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:19:27 PM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> Having a hard time finding what saddle was included on the first complete 
> clem builds. I remember it had bag loops, right? 
>
> While we are at it, are there any other current offerings that people like 
> in the cheap saddle category. I've been on the brooks train long enough to 
> have not kept up, but my friend cant fathom spending 100$ on a bike seat, 
> and i'd like to put something on his bike that he wont hate, and will sort 
> of go with the rivish build i put together. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Compass on tour?

[dougP]

This is correct; there are no invulnerable tires.  For touring, the 
Marathon Supreme provides better puncture protection than a more 
performance oriented tire, but at the cost of weight & ride.  Sort of like 
the old saying about "cheap, fast, & good; pick 2 out of 3".  

FWIW, I've punctured a 47 mm Marathon Touring Plus (970 grams of stout 
German rubber).  OTH, I had one Marathon Supreme that went over 11,000 
miles without a puncture.  

On tour, the junk on the shoulder is the killer.  The busier the highway, 
the more crud gets deposited.  Sticking to quieter back roads is a winner.  
There are places where you are forced onto the interstate & have to deal 
with Dan's list.  Truck tire treads are a hazard, especially in summer.

dougP

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 10:20:25 AM UTC-7, djm323 wrote:
>
> Marathon Supremes puncture, too.  I have 42-559 Supremes on my commuter 
> and have had flats from wire strands, wood screws, roofing nails, narrow 
> glass shards, etc.  Probably fewer than other tires but they are not 
> invulnerable.  YMMV.
>
> :Dan • Chicagaux, USA
>
> On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 11:42:34 AM UTC-5, Eric Douglas wrote:
>  
>
>> On the other hand, if I absolutely wanted to avoid flats I might consider 
>> Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Clem saddle OR saddles under 40$

[drew]

Having a hard time finding what saddle was included on the first complete 
clem builds. I remember it had bag loops, right? 

While we are at it, are there any other current offerings that people like 
in the cheap saddle category. I've been on the brooks train long enough to 
have not kept up, but my friend cant fathom spending 100$ on a bike seat, 
and i'd like to put something on his bike that he wont hate, and will sort 
of go with the rivish build i put together. 


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[RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I was going to PM you to see if you were sending me something.  Glad I 
didn't touch it.  thanks for the heads up

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 3:40:19 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> There's a massive phishing operation going on. If you see something from 
> me or any other list member requestion to open a Google Doc, don't touch it!

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

[Lee Legrand]

Got to get me a hat like that. 

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 1:54 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> RBW Content, so no longer off topic! Here's (5) 1"x6"x8' and (3) 2"x6"x8'
> pine boards, cut in half and hauled in panniers (pus bits in the saddle
> bag).
> http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-into-hand-powered-woodworking/
>
> On Saturday, April 29, 2017 at 4:43:23 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Well, I've certainly got enough "simple" coming my way next week to get
>> me in trouble for a very long time trying to catch up with it! Grin.
>> Sharpening: yes. Core. Essential. Basics. Takes five minutes to begin, a
>> lifetime to learn. One of the things I've learned is that once I have the
>> basics I have to learn the basics. And when I "need" more to advance, that
>> usually means I need to return to the basics and get better at them
>> instead. Grin. I have found this universally true, in marriage, prayer,
>> faith, footwear, furniture, cooking, biking, running, parenting... ... ...
>> Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Lee Legrand]

I have seen that one, Bob and Wally, but I wanted to know if people did
that using cork wrap tape.  That is thicker than the canvas cloth used in
the video.

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 2:49 PM, Wally Estrella 
wrote:

> Same here.  I don't do it enough to remember it and getting to old to try
> ;)
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:57:31 PM UTC-4, Bob K. wrote:
>>
>> I watch this video from Riv every time I wrap bars:
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO8DcaOJzrA
>>
>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>>
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Re: [RBW] DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Tim Butterfield]

Or a DocuSign link you are not expecting.  Don't open it.

Tim

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 12:40 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> There's a massive phishing operation going on. If you see something from
> me or any other list member requestion to open a Google Doc, don't touch it!
>
> --
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[RBW] DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Joe Bernard]

There's a massive phishing operation going on. If you see something from me or 
any other list member requestion to open a Google Doc, don't touch it!

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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Wally Estrella]

Same here.  I don't do it enough to remember it and getting to old to try ;)


On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:57:31 PM UTC-4, Bob K. wrote:
>
> I watch this video from Riv every time I wrap bars:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO8DcaOJzrA
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Sam Hillborne

[Mattt]

Looks great Reid. You did a quick buld that came out beautiful.  How did the 
sizing turn out for you?   With shipping from OKC to Austin, it happened to be 
overnight.

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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Bob K.]

I watch this video from Riv every time I wrap bars:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO8DcaOJzrA

Bob K. in Baltimore

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[RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

[Deacon Patrick]

RBW Content, so no longer off topic! Here's (5) 1"x6"x8' and (3) 2"x6"x8' 
pine boards, cut in half and hauled in panniers (pus bits in the saddle 
bag). 
http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-into-hand-powered-woodworking/

On Saturday, April 29, 2017 at 4:43:23 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Well, I've certainly got enough "simple" coming my way next week to get me 
> in trouble for a very long time trying to catch up with it! Grin. 
> Sharpening: yes. Core. Essential. Basics. Takes five minutes to begin, a 
> lifetime to learn. One of the things I've learned is that once I have the 
> basics I have to learn the basics. And when I "need" more to advance, that 
> usually means I need to return to the basics and get better at them 
> instead. Grin. I have found this universally true, in marriage, prayer, 
> faith, footwear, furniture, cooking, biking, running, parenting... ... ... 
> Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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[RBW] Re: Compass on tour?

[djm323]

Marathon Supremes puncture, too.  I have 42-559 Supremes on my commuter and 
have had flats from wire strands, wood screws, roofing nails, narrow glass 
shards, etc.  Probably fewer than other tires but they are not 
invulnerable.  YMMV.

:Dan • Chicagaux, USA

On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 11:42:34 AM UTC-5, Eric Douglas wrote:
 

> On the other hand, if I absolutely wanted to avoid flats I might consider 
> Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Steve Palincsar]

And start at the bottom at an angle with "overlap" and when you're done 
cut it with a razor blade, gives you a tapered start and avoids a 
bunched up thick end at the shifter, which is not only unsightly but 
makes a lump you will feel because you will have your hand on it often.



On 05/03/2017 12:42 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:

bottom-->up.  No tuck.

BL in EC

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 9:11:07 AM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:

I have always seen it wrapped from the bottom up with it wrapping
going outward from the top.  Just wanted to see everyone opinion
on whether it should be tucked. I have not done it yet but it
seems that it will be too tight to have that cork edge wedge using
the bar end shifters.  It may not even work but I am fine with
possibly taping that end since the cork is black.

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 12:07 PM, Tim Gavin
 wrote:

Yes, in case I wasn't clear, my above suggestion works with
wrapping from the bottom up.

I dislike wrapping from the top down because the overlap is
the wrong way on the bar tops.  The edges of the tape get
curled up pretty quickly.

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 10:53 AM, Patrick Moore
 wrote:

I always wrap from bottom upwards. This has the advantage
that the spirals overlap on the downward side, so that
hand pressure doesn't separate them.

Tape at the end point near the stem clamp.



On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Lee Legrand
 wrote:

Hello all,

I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I
rebuilt but I wanted to ask a question about the
ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and typically
youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar
ends but tucked into the ends with plugs.  My question
is, how is it typically done when using bar end
shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do
you tape it at the ends with electric tape or is it do
able to tuck it in with bar shifters?

Thanks,
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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Bill Lindsay]

bottom-->up.  No tuck.  

BL in EC

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 9:11:07 AM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> I have always seen it wrapped from the bottom up with it wrapping going 
> outward from the top.  Just wanted to see everyone opinion on whether it 
> should be tucked. I have not done it yet but it seems that it will be too 
> tight to have that cork edge wedge using the bar end shifters.  It may not 
> even work but I am fine with possibly taping that end since the cork is 
> black.
>
> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 12:07 PM, Tim Gavin  > wrote:
>
>> Yes, in case I wasn't clear, my above suggestion works with wrapping from 
>> the bottom up.  
>>
>> I dislike wrapping from the top down because the overlap is the wrong way 
>> on the bar tops.  The edges of the tape get curled up pretty quickly.
>>
>> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 10:53 AM, Patrick Moore > > wrote:
>>
>>> I always wrap from bottom upwards. This has the advantage that the 
>>> spirals overlap on the downward side, so that hand pressure doesn't 
>>> separate them.
>>>
>>> Tape at the end point near the stem clamp. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Lee Legrand >> > wrote:
>>>
 Hello all,

 I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I rebuilt but I wanted to 
 ask a question about the ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and 
 typically 
 youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar ends but tucked into 
 the ends with plugs.  My question is, how is it typically done when using 
 bar end shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do you tape it 
 at 
 the ends with electric tape or is it do able to tuck it in with bar 
 shifters?

 Thanks,

 -- 
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 Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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 .
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
>>> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
>>> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
>>> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
>>> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 
>>> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>>>
>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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>>> *
>>> ***
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Lee Legrand]

I have always seen it wrapped from the bottom up with it wrapping going
outward from the top.  Just wanted to see everyone opinion on whether it
should be tucked. I have not done it yet but it seems that it will be too
tight to have that cork edge wedge using the bar end shifters.  It may not
even work but I am fine with possibly taping that end since the cork is
black.

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 12:07 PM, Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> Yes, in case I wasn't clear, my above suggestion works with wrapping from
> the bottom up.
>
> I dislike wrapping from the top down because the overlap is the wrong way
> on the bar tops.  The edges of the tape get curled up pretty quickly.
>
> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 10:53 AM, Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> I always wrap from bottom upwards. This has the advantage that the
>> spirals overlap on the downward side, so that hand pressure doesn't
>> separate them.
>>
>> Tape at the end point near the stem clamp.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Lee Legrand  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I rebuilt but I wanted to
>>> ask a question about the ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and typically
>>> youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar ends but tucked into
>>> the ends with plugs.  My question is, how is it typically done when using
>>> bar end shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do you tape it at
>>> the ends with electric tape or is it do able to tuck it in with bar
>>> shifters?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume,
>> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's
>> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price
>> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike,
>> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937
>> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>>
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>> 
>> 
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Tim Gavin]

Yes, in case I wasn't clear, my above suggestion works with wrapping from
the bottom up.

I dislike wrapping from the top down because the overlap is the wrong way
on the bar tops.  The edges of the tape get curled up pretty quickly.

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 10:53 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I always wrap from bottom upwards. This has the advantage that the spirals
> overlap on the downward side, so that hand pressure doesn't separate them.
>
> Tape at the end point near the stem clamp.
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Lee Legrand  wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I rebuilt but I wanted to
>> ask a question about the ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and typically
>> youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar ends but tucked into
>> the ends with plugs.  My question is, how is it typically done when using
>> bar end shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do you tape it at
>> the ends with electric tape or is it do able to tuck it in with bar
>> shifters?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
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>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Patrick Moore]

I always wrap from bottom upwards. This has the advantage that the spirals
overlap on the downward side, so that hand pressure doesn't separate them.

Tape at the end point near the stem clamp.



On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Lee Legrand  wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I rebuilt but I wanted to
> ask a question about the ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and typically
> youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar ends but tucked into
> the ends with plugs.  My question is, how is it typically done when using
> bar end shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do you tape it at
> the ends with electric tape or is it do able to tuck it in with bar
> shifters?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
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and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's more! 10%
kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price contract. And
still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, or frame and
parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 to 1961. See
my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*

Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
http://www.resumespecialties.com/
www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
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Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
**
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wrapping handlebars

[Tim Gavin]

Tuck the end of the tape in between the bar and the cable exiting the
bar-end pod.  Then wrap around the outside of the cable* and it will hold
the end in place.  No tape required.

*obviously, you must choose whether to wrap the shift cable, and how far.
This has been discussed in other threads.  It comes down to preference.
Mine is to wrap the shift cable the whole way, up to the stem.  But I
prefer that way because it stays out of the way of a front bag (which you
may not have).

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 10:14 AM, Spencer Hawkes 
wrote:

>
>
> Hello Lee, as Johnny said I start at the bar end, but instead of trying to
>> get the tape into the bar end under the shifter, just cut the end at an
>> angle and lay it on nicely. I then take an old tube (small diameter) and
>> cut out a slice so I have a rubber-band-like sleeve that I pop over the
>> shifter and onto the bar to hold the end of the tape in place. (I maybe
>> placed a thin strip of electrical tape underneath as well, it's been years
>> since I did it, and it has never come loose, so I don't remember. :- )
>>
>
> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 10:43:52 AM UTC-4, Lee Legrand wrote:
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I rebuilt but I wanted to
>> ask a question about the ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and typically
>> youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar ends but tucked into
>> the ends with plugs.  My question is, how is it typically done when using
>> bar end shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do you tape it at
>> the ends with electric tape or is it do able to tuck it in with bar
>> shifters?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
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[RBW] Re: Wrapping handlebars

[Spencer Hawkes]

Hello Lee, as Johnny said I start at the bar end, but instead of trying to 
> get the tape into the bar end under the shifter, just cut the end at an 
> angle and lay it on nicely. I then take an old tube (small diameter) and 
> cut out a slice so I have a rubber-band-like sleeve that I pop over the 
> shifter and onto the bar to hold the end of the tape in place. (I maybe 
> placed a thin strip of electrical tape underneath as well, it's been years 
> since I did it, and it has never come loose, so I don't remember. :- ) 
>

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 10:43:52 AM UTC-4, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I rebuilt but I wanted to 
> ask a question about the ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and typically 
> youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar ends but tucked into 
> the ends with plugs.  My question is, how is it typically done when using 
> bar end shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do you tape it at 
> the ends with electric tape or is it do able to tuck it in with bar 
> shifters?
>
> Thanks,
>

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[RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Johnny Alien]

I start the wrap at the bar end and wrap up to the center. Doing it that way I 
never tuck and have never felt the need too. 

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[RBW] Wrapping handlebars

[Lee Legrand]

Hello all,

I am wrapping my handlebars on a bicycle that I rebuilt but I wanted to ask
a question about the ends.  This bicycle has Riv bar ends and typically
youtube videos show that the wrap without these bar ends but tucked into
the ends with plugs.  My question is, how is it typically done when using
bar end shifters when this fit looks to be really tight?  Do you tape it at
the ends with electric tape or is it do able to tuck it in with bar
shifters?

Thanks,

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Coffee Outside Bay Area

[Roger]

*EIGHT AM*
Got it!


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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto S65 Seatpost, Tallux Stem and Shimano Shifter Pods

[Johnny Alien]

Make an offer! I need to move some stuff out. 

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[RBW] FS: Rolly Poly 700C Tires

[Johnny Alien]

Anyone interested at $50 shipped? 

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Re: [RBW] FS- Shimano Deore LX dynamo wheelset with E6 Schmidt light.

[Alan Lavine]

Got it, thanks.  Will adjust price accordingly.

> On May 3, 2017, at 7:32 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> 
> Yes.  It's totally plug-and-play.
> 
> On 05/03/2017 07:05 AM, Alan Lavine wrote:
>> Can this dynamo be used with the newer lights?
>> 
>>> On May 3, 2017, at 7:02 AM, Steve Palincsar >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 05/03/2017 06:53 AM, alan lavine wrote:
 Hello to all.
 This wheelset and light set came on a bike bought on this forum and I have 
 no use for a dynamo light.  It all works fine, tried it before 
 disconnecting. Dynamo is DH-T660-3N model.
 Rims are Mavic A319 36H, hubs are smooth as silk, but there is some slight 
 damage to the drive side spokes on the rear wheel.  Looks like the chain 
 got jammed between the spokes and the large cog.  Not serious and these 
 wheels are bomb-proof but if you're picky about things you may want to 
 change them out.
 
 The E 6 light (and extra bulbs) is called by Peter White the hands down 
 best dynamo light.
>>> 
>>> That was true quite some time ago.  Technology has marched on, and the 
>>> performance of the E6 has been vastly exceeded by LED lights.  The beam of 
>>> the E6, although bright, is shaped like a light sabre.  The current LED 
>>> lights' beams are more like automobile headlights.   Basically, the E6 is 
>>> obsolete.
>>> 
>>> 
  I have zero experience with dynamo lights and I understand these are no 
 longer available.  I also have an on/off switch but don't know how to 
 mount it, so I'll let you do that. Comes with a wire like mounting bracket 
 for the fork crown.
 
 Price? I'm thinking $275 shipped via Bikeflights  (if local 225). If this 
 is way off, let me know.  If its too cheap you can throw in a B17 or 
 Rivet...hah!
 
 
>>> 
>>> 
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[RBW] Re: Compass on tour?

[ascpgh]

>From my (narrower, 32mm) experience with the supple Comapss tires, I find 
them more sensitive to inflation pressure. If I ride on a rough surface 
with the odd higher rock, or bigger rocks, you have be inflated for those. 
Even in a recent BQ article Jan wrote about multiple flats in that sort of 
terrain, possibly facilitated by more speed possible because of the 
tires...until the big one got under the wheel. I can't account for any 
flats from cuts by too little pressure or otherwise, I haven't had any.

A single edge or point will deflect the air volume in the Compass casing 
easier than Armageddon-ready tires and snake bite what feels like an OK 
pressure. I found that out while riding around in the city on what I came 
to know as an irresponsibly low pressure that let a wide expansion joint 
show its far edge to my inner tube . I had the same thing occur on the 
Schwalbes on my commuter when I was "appreciating" the lower range of their 
pressure, it just requires a perspective adjustment to account for the much 
more rigid, slower (although better than most equivalents) deflection and 
recovery of the carcass over surface extremes. 

My earlier point about ridding myself of a car that was equipped with 
run-flat tires was about eventualities, such as having flats of my 
commuter's Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. You can try to avoid tire and tube 
problems, if you are willing to accept their performance consequences, but 
don't lull yourself into thinking you have purchased an exception from 
flats. 

Pardon my drift rant but with regard to not preferring flats or coping with 
them when occurring, a review of the limitations of those run flat tires 
when replaced left me...well, flat. The total distance and speed (50 mi @50 
MPH) they could be driven when flat was not comforting to my travels and 
required replacement if driven under-inflated or flat. Not an iota better 
than a space saver spare, except for the privilege of buying a new one 
because of perhaps a random nail in the tread from which a regular tire 
could be repaired and returned to serviceability if a spare was mounted and 
used until the puncture was repaired. Dumb. I am in no way that averse to 
changing a tire, on a bike or a car. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 4:51:41 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> I recently did a mixed-surface tour on Vancouver Island on my Atlantis 
> with 44mm Compass tires. Another guy had 42mm Barlow Pass 650B tires. We 
> have five compass flats in 1-2 miles. That was on a very rough and rocky 
> mountain descent. Otherwise we had zero flats for five days. We were riding 
> bikes with two panniers and a handlebar bag each. I'd say that so long as 
> you stay off the mountain bike trails, you should be just fine :)
>
> On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 12:52:43 PM UTC-5, Ryan Thompson wrote:
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> An another option may be Soma's C-Line (700x38c) or one of their Shikoro 
>> tires which are supple but have some flat protection.  I have the c-lines 
>> on my Cheviot and the Shikoros on my Sam.  I've used both for commuting and 
>> a short three day tour on the C canal trail (surface like the Katy trail) 
>> with no flats.
>>
>> Good luck on your tour.
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>> On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 10:21:48 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>>>
>>> So, I absolutely love my Compass Barlow Pass extra light, 700x38s on my 
>>> Hilsen. I've been riding them for 2-2 1/2 years. I'm planning on riding 
>>> from KC to Phoenix in a couple of weeks. I'll be on pavement. I'm around 
>>> 230-235 lbs (30 lbs too heavy currently) and I'll have some gear since I'll 
>>> be camping some, with hotels a couple nights per week. No cooking gear. 
>>> I'll try to keep my load down to 25-30 lbs. I know many people would never 
>>> tour with such a "fragile" tire, but I don't want to give them up. I would 
>>> definitely carry an extra tire (along with the usual tubes, patches, etc.) 
>>> because I had to abandon PBP after 1000K due to a sidewall cut (I found out 
>>> that tire boots simply will not hold a Compass tire. I used 2 boots and 
>>> paper money to boot it but still had 7 flats over around 100K), so I 
>>> wouldn't make that mistake again. I don't plan on any gravel but wouldn't 
>>> be afraid of some short sections and even an intentional jaunt or two 
>>> (although I've yet to develop much of an affinity for gravel.) Ok, so, 
>>> what's the group consensus? Compass for a fat guy on tour or not? Thanks!
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Guidonette levers on Choco?

[Garth]

FWIW, I find bar end brake levers by far my favorite on such swept back bars. 
With Alba bars I have the shifters mounted just around the inside of the curve 
top, so my hands are free to use the whole bar. Using the brakes is so much 
easier too than mtb levers since you can brake with either your pinkie or + 
next finger, and there is alot of strength with just those one or two fingers !

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Re: [RBW] FS- Shimano Deore LX dynamo wheelset with E6 Schmidt light.

[Steve Palincsar]

Yes.  It's totally plug-and-play.


On 05/03/2017 07:05 AM, Alan Lavine wrote:

Can this dynamo be used with the newer lights?

On May 3, 2017, at 7:02 AM, Steve Palincsar > wrote:




On 05/03/2017 06:53 AM, alan lavine wrote:

Hello to all.
This wheelset and light set came on a bike bought on this forum and 
I have no use for a dynamo light.  It all works fine, tried it 
before disconnecting. Dynamo is DH-T660-3N model.
Rims are Mavic A319 36H, hubs are smooth as silk, but there is some 
slight damage to the drive side spokes on the rear wheel.  Looks 
like the chain got jammed between the spokes and the large cog.  Not 
serious and these wheels are bomb-proof but if you're picky about 
things you may want to change them out.


The E 6 light (and extra bulbs) is called by Peter White the hands 
down best dynamo light.


That was true quite some time ago.  Technology has marched on, and 
the performance of the E6 has been vastly exceeded by LED lights.  
The beam of the E6, although bright, is shaped like a light sabre.  
The current LED lights' beams are more like automobile headlights.   
Basically, the E6 is obsolete.



 I have zero experience with dynamo lights and I understand these 
are no longer available.  I also have an on/off switch but don't 
know how to mount it, so I'll let you do that. Comes with a wire 
like mounting bracket for the fork crown.


Price? I'm thinking $275 shipped via Bikeflights  (if local 225). If 
this is way off, let me know.  If its too cheap you can throw in a 
B17 or Rivet...hah!






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Re: [RBW] FS- Shimano Deore LX dynamo wheelset with E6 Schmidt light.

[Alan Lavine]

Can this dynamo be used with the newer lights?

> On May 3, 2017, at 7:02 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> On 05/03/2017 06:53 AM, alan lavine wrote:
>> Hello to all.
>> This wheelset and light set came on a bike bought on this forum and I have 
>> no use for a dynamo light.  It all works fine, tried it before 
>> disconnecting. Dynamo is DH-T660-3N model.
>> Rims are Mavic A319 36H, hubs are smooth as silk, but there is some slight 
>> damage to the drive side spokes on the rear wheel.  Looks like the chain got 
>> jammed between the spokes and the large cog.  Not serious and these wheels 
>> are bomb-proof but if you're picky about things you may want to change them 
>> out.
>> 
>> The E 6 light (and extra bulbs) is called by Peter White the hands down best 
>> dynamo light.
> 
> That was true quite some time ago.  Technology has marched on, and the 
> performance of the E6 has been vastly exceeded by LED lights.  The beam of 
> the E6, although bright, is shaped like a light sabre.  The current LED 
> lights' beams are more like automobile headlights.   Basically, the E6 is 
> obsolete.
> 
> 
>>  I have zero experience with dynamo lights and I understand these are no 
>> longer available.  I also have an on/off switch but don't know how to mount 
>> it, so I'll let you do that. Comes with a wire like mounting bracket for the 
>> fork crown.
>> 
>> Price? I'm thinking $275 shipped via Bikeflights  (if local 225). If this is 
>> way off, let me know.  If its too cheap you can throw in a B17 or 
>> Rivet...hah!
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] FS- Shimano Deore LX dynamo wheelset with E6 Schmidt light.

[Steve Palincsar]

On 05/03/2017 06:53 AM, alan lavine wrote:

Hello to all.
This wheelset and light set came on a bike bought on this forum and I 
have no use for a dynamo light.  It all works fine, tried it before 
disconnecting. Dynamo is DH-T660-3N model.
Rims are Mavic A319 36H, hubs are smooth as silk, but there is some 
slight damage to the drive side spokes on the rear wheel.  Looks like 
the chain got jammed between the spokes and the large cog.  Not 
serious and these wheels are bomb-proof but if you're picky about 
things you may want to change them out.


The E 6 light (and extra bulbs) is called by Peter White the hands 
down best dynamo light.


That was true quite some time ago.  Technology has marched on, and the 
performance of the E6 has been vastly exceeded by LED lights. The beam 
of the E6, although bright, is shaped like a light sabre. The current 
LED lights' beams are more like automobile headlights. Basically, the E6 
is obsolete.



 I have zero experience with dynamo lights and I understand these are 
no longer available.  I also have an on/off switch but don't know how 
to mount it, so I'll let you do that. Comes with a wire like mounting 
bracket for the fork crown.


Price? I'm thinking $275 shipped via Bikeflights  (if local 225). If 
this is way off, let me know.  If its too cheap you can throw in a B17 
or Rivet...hah!





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[RBW] FS- Shimano Deore LX dynamo wheelset with E6 Schmidt light.

[alan lavine]

Hello to all.
This wheelset and light set came on a bike bought on this forum and I have 
no use for a dynamo light.  It all works fine, tried it before 
disconnecting. Dynamo is DH-T660-3N model.
Rims are Mavic A319 36H, hubs are smooth as silk, but there is some slight 
damage to the drive side spokes on the rear wheel.  Looks like the chain 
got jammed between the spokes and the large cog.  Not serious and these 
wheels are bomb-proof but if you're picky about things you may want to 
change them out.

The E 6 light (and extra bulbs) is called by Peter White the hands down 
best dynamo light.  I have zero experience with dynamo lights and I 
understand these are no longer available.  I also have an on/off switch but 
don't know how to mount it, so I'll let you do that. Comes with a wire like 
mounting bracket for the fork crown.

Price? I'm thinking $275 shipped via Bikeflights  (if local 225). If this 
is way off, let me know.  If its too cheap you can throw in a B17 or 
Rivet...hah!

Thanks,
Alan 
NYC

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Sam

[Garth]

Ahahahaahahahahah . you suffer from TMT . too many tires ! It's so easy 
to buy tires and so hard to wear them out. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Sam Hillborne

[Broccoli Cog]

Great looking bike Reid! 

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[RBW] Re: Compass on tour?

[Les Lammers]

I agree with Doug and would get some bullet proof tires. 
 

On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 11:35:53 AM UTC-4, dougP wrote:

> I'll take the other side of the argument on this one.  While light supple 
> tires perform well riding unloaded, on a long tour in the summer, with 
> 25-30 lbs of gear, expect significantly more flats than you are used to.  
> Perhaps not sidewall cuts or other structural damage but punctures from 
> tire wires, small bits of glass, thorns, etc.  
>
> For a trip such as you describe, I would go with something from Schwalbe.  
> Yes, they will weigh considerably more than the Compass.  40 mm Marathon 
> Supremes are 500 grams, & their offerings go up from there.  They are not 
> supple like Compass.  But you will get far fewer flats.  It just depends on 
> your tolerance for fixing flats.  Especially with long, back to back days 
> of riding, with a load, the decrease in tire performance will not be a 
> hindrance.  In fact, if you don't overly inflate them, Schwalbes can be 
> cushy with a load.  
>
> *Once you get home from the trip, change back to the high performance 
> tires and your bike will feel like it's old self, especially without any 
> load.*
>
> dougP
>
> On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 7:21:48 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>>
>> So, I absolutely love my Compass Barlow Pass extra light, 700x38s on my 
>> Hilsen. I've been riding them for 2-2 1/2 years. I'm planning on riding 
>> from KC to Phoenix in a couple of weeks. I'll be on pavement. I'm around 
>> 230-235 lbs (30 lbs too heavy currently) and I'll have some gear since I'll 
>> be camping some, with hotels a couple nights per week. No cooking gear. 
>> I'll try to keep my load down to 25-30 lbs. I know many people would never 
>> tour with such a "fragile" tire, but I don't want to give them up. I would 
>> definitely carry an extra tire (along with the usual tubes, patches, etc.) 
>> because I had to abandon PBP after 1000K due to a sidewall cut (I found out 
>> that tire boots simply will not hold a Compass tire. I used 2 boots and 
>> paper money to boot it but still had 7 flats over around 100K), so I 
>> wouldn't make that mistake again. I don't plan on any gravel but wouldn't 
>> be afraid of some short sections and even an intentional jaunt or two 
>> (although I've yet to develop much of an affinity for gravel.) Ok, so, 
>> what's the group consensus? Compass for a fat guy on tour or not? Thanks!
>
>

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