Re: [RBW] Re: Generations of Clems

[Joe Bernard]

The sockets on the new Clem lugs are shorter, and point whatever direction they 
need to for straight seatstays. If you look at the listing for Clem H at 
Rivbike.com, the pics show the old lug on a butternut frame, new on grilver. 

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[RBW] Re: New geometry charts available

[Adam in Indiana]

Anyone else notice that the new Homer has more tire clearance than a canti Sam? 
 Or do you think that's a typo?  I don't recall Tektro 559's clearing a 55mm...

Also, anyone remember what the chainstay length on the previous Sam generation 
was?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Generations of Clems

[Leah Peterson]

Sorry, Kai. I was typing my previous response as you were sending yours. So, 
did the seat lug change in the newer Clems so the stays could be straight on 
the smaller models?

Sent from my iPad

> On May 26, 2018, at 9:06 PM, Kainalu V.  wrote:
> 
> The first and only generation of 65 Clems had straight seat stays because (I 
> believe) they were the frame that was intended for the surplus of seat lug 
> castings that were the original push to produce the frame in the first place. 
> The curved seat stays were a work around to accommodate the smaller Clems use 
> of that gargantuan seat lug. 
> So it stands to reason that the 65 Clem H is the one true Clem! With the 
> assumption being that I've got my story straight.. 
> -Kai 
> BKNY 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Generations of Clems

[Leah Peterson]

Interesting. Why did they change the curved seat stays and diameter of the seat 
tube?

Sent from my iPad

> On May 26, 2018, at 6:45 PM, 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> First gen had curved seat stays, bigger diameter seat tube, L model had 
> "Clementine" decal. I really really like the Clementine name, wish they kept 
> that one, don't get the PC thing at all. Guess I'm old. 
> 
>> On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 7:30:31 PM UTC-4, Mike Packard wrote:
>> Just off the top of my head here, but the biggest difference I remember of 
>> is that the older models has curved seat stays and the newer ones don't. 
>> Older came with Bosco Bullmoose bars instead of stem+bar combo, Shimano 
>> Altus derailleurs instead of Deore, and maybe included pedals and seat. I 
>> remember something about the seat tube becoming slightly tapered (like a 
>> baseball bat) but it's not obvious even in the close up photos.
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Generations of Clems

[Kainalu V.]

The first and only generation of 65 Clems had straight seat stays because (I 
believe) they were the frame that was intended for the surplus of seat lug 
castings that were the original push to produce the frame in the first place. 
The curved seat stays were a work around to accommodate the smaller Clems use 
of that gargantuan seat lug. 
So it stands to reason that the 65 Clem H is the one true Clem! With the 
assumption being that I've got my story straight.. 
-Kai 
BKNY 

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[RBW] Re: Tire Pressure Question

[Adam in Indiana]

Just for the sake of posterity:

Pasela 35mm, standard up front, TG in back, on Sun M13II rims, 220 lb rider.  
65 lbs front, 75 lbs back.   It often goes lower than that, though; I check 
them perhaps every other week, and air them up to those numbers, good for 
another few weeks...

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[RBW] Re: 59/65cm 700c/29er Clems with 29x2.5 Surly Extraterrestrials?

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Thanks Tom, Mezcals look good too. As it turns out, it looks like I’ll be 
trying 29x2.2 Continental MountainKings, however, after a couple things sealed 
the deal today.  It seems some have experienced sidewall problems (per some 
online reviews) with seeping sealant when going tubeless with these but I have 
no immediate plans for going tubeless so it’s a non-issue for me.

First, the Mountainkings were available at a discount that was too good to pass 
on.  I’ve had a few other items on the checklist and conveniently found them at 
a deep discount at the same place as the other items.  Second, after getting in 
my longest ride for the year earlier today and with widely mixed surfaces I 
found I was really wishing I had that extra tread/traction in several areas, 
especially a section of single track that I finally figured out how to fully 
connect to another frequent route.  I also experienced more stop and go road 
crossings than usual and determined with my current bottom bracket height if I 
went with tires much wider i’d end up raising it too high to comfortably stop 
and plant my feet when riding with my son.  So that realization clearly ruled 
out the Surly ETs and anything wider than 2.2 or so anyway.  Considering I’d 
successfully ridden 26x2” exclusively for the first 15 years or so of my adult 
cycling on a rigid mtb I’m also realizing I don’t necessarily need the extra 
width despite the temptation with current tire offerings and Clem clearances.

Thanks,
Brian

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[RBW] Re: Tire Pressure Question - Survey Results

[Bill Schairer]

Thanks, John, I’ll play with that.

Bill

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[RBW] Brooks B17

[Surlyprof]

Will do.  Thanks, Jon

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[RBW] Re: Generations of Clems

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

First gen had curved seat stays, bigger diameter seat tube, L model had 
"Clementine" decal. I really really like the Clementine name, wish they 
kept that one, don't get the PC thing at all. Guess I'm old. 

On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 7:30:31 PM UTC-4, Mike Packard wrote:
>
> Just off the top of my head here, but the biggest difference I remember of 
> is that the older models has curved seat stays and the newer ones don't. 
> Older came with Bosco Bullmoose bars instead of stem+bar combo, Shimano 
> Altus derailleurs instead of Deore, and maybe included pedals and seat. I 
> remember something about the seat tube becoming slightly tapered (like a 
> baseball bat) but it's not obvious even in the close up photos.
>
> Mike
>
>
>

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[RBW] WTT: Snoqualmie Pass for Barlow Pass or Steilacoom

[Eric Karnes]

Hi all-

I have a pair of Snoqualmie Pass tires and they're just a bit too wide for 
me. I'm odd and prefer a 38mm tire. So...

Anyone interested in trading a set of nearly new (two or three short rides) 
standard casing Snoqualmie Pass tires for nearly new Barlow or Steilacooms 
(ok with either standard or extra light)?

If it doesn't come to anything, I'll just put the Snoqualmies up for sale 
and buy a new pair.

Let me know, Thanks!

Eric

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[RBW] Re: Rim recommendations?

[Eric Karnes]

Thanks all! I'll take a look at some of these...

Eric

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 4:13:02 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Haha.  that's all I meant by 100%.  Any new 700c rim I buy will be HED 
> Belgium.  I don't have them on every bike either; only 8 wheels on four of 
> my bikes.  :-)
>
> On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 1:07:32 PM UTC-7, John G. wrote:
>>
>> I also haven't found a better rim than HED Belgium. I don't have them on 
>> every bike, but any new 700C rim I buy will be a HED Belgium.
>>
>> On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 9:58:20 AM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> I’m a 100% HED Belgium one-man shop at this point. They are expensive 
>>> but perfecto for all my Compass tire work. I can’t say they are superior to 
>>> the Archetype, but I can say that it’s convenient to use the same rim 
>>> across several builds, and I’m completely satisfied with HED rims. 
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Generations of Clems

[Carl]

The 2015 had Sunrace thumb shifters and the current model has Microshift. The 
Sunrace shifters have some quirks that have been discussed previously on the 
forum. I’m still enjoying using mine. 

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[RBW] Re: Tire Pressure Question - Survey Results

[John Hawrylak]

Bill 
I used the graphs in the BQ article showing F Berto's work Tire pressure vs 
Weight on tire).  I got data points from the graphs and fitted a linear 
equation.  If you look at the graphs, Frank used straight lines so a mx + b 
equation is good

for a 32 mm tire the pressure

0.5973*Wtotal - 2.105,  round to no decimal places

Wtotat  =Wdist * (Wrider + Wbike + Wextra),  Wdist s the fractional weight 
for each wheel, e.g. 0.45 for Front in a 45%/55% scheme

Does this help?

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 6:41:31 PM UTC-4, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> How did you determine the 15% tire drop pressure?

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[RBW] Re: Generations of Clems

[Mike Packard]

Just off the top of my head here, but the biggest difference I remember of 
is that the older models has curved seat stays and the newer ones don't. 
Older came with Bosco Bullmoose bars instead of stem+bar combo, Shimano 
Altus derailleurs instead of Deore, and maybe included pedals and seat. I 
remember something about the seat tube becoming slightly tapered (like a 
baseball bat) but it's not obvious even in the close up photos.

Mike


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[RBW] Tire Pressure Question - Survey Results

[Bill Schairer]

How did you determine the 15% tire drop pressure?

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[Bill Schairer]

I’ve seen many mentions of the pedals and I agree but I haven’t seen anyone 
suggest removing the pedals  and reinstall after re-greasing the threads.  But, 
of course, it could be almost anything and it is SO much worse when riding with 
someone.

Bill

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[RBW] Generations of Clems

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

I have been searching, but cannot seem to find the differences between the 
first Clems (2015, yes?) and current Clems. I had thought there was some slight 
tweaking to the frames, and I remember something about a frame lock, but it’s 
nowhere on the website now, of course. 

I’d be interested to know since my husband and mother in law have a pair of H & 
L from 2015, but my brother in law will (maybe next week!) have a 2018 metallic 
gray Clem L. 

Thanks for all the knowledge sharing!
Leah

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[RBW] Brooks B17

[Jon Dukeman,central Colorado]

John
Take and apply a few drops of thin lubricant where the springs touch or rub and 
on the nut.
That should take care of the squeek.
Jon

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[RBW] Re: Coffee Making Question

[Virgil Staphbeard]

@redsydude That's the White River in Indianapolis. I'm not sure what the 
weir/low head dam is for. I'm assuming it's to raise the hydraulic head of 
the river considering it's right in the city. 

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 7:52:06 PM UTC-4, redsydude wrote:
>
> What river is that?  What's the weir for? Thanks.
>
> On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 7:54:02 AM UTC-7, Virgil Staphbeard wrote:
>>
>> I use an aeropress as well. I also have a reusable drip filter with 
>> 'legs' that clip onto a cup if i'm trying to go lighter. 
>>
>> We have a group that meets pretty much every Sat. or Sun. morning via 
>> bike and brews coffee.
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 10:02:26 AM UTC-4, Jonathan D. wrote:
>>>
>>> I notice a strong correlation to those who love Riv Bikes, for a love of 
>>> coffee. On instagram I see a lot of coffee brewing bike kits for when folks 
>>> are out on their bikes. I am curious to know what people use. If you have a 
>>> coffee bike kit, would you share what you take with you? 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[steve]

I had one of these annoying clicks and it stopped after I removed my crank, 
cleaned everything up, greased everything lightly and reassembled.

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[RBW] Tire Pressure Question - Survey Results

[John Hawrylak]

Rich S recently had a post on Minimum Tire Pressure:  "For those of you who 
ride 700 x 32-35 size tires (with tubes) on roads, what is the minimum tire 
pressure you're comfortable using?"

4 responses were for 700x32 and contained the rider weight.  I compared the 
reported pressures to the pressures using the 15% tire drop method, using 
the stated weight as rider weight and added 30# for bike weight & used a 
45%/55% weight distribution.  The difference is expressed as a % of the 15% 
Tire Drop Pressure,  (Pact - P15)/P15.  see table below, a NEGATIVE % 
indates the rider is using LESS pressure than the 15% tire drop method








*Wrider* *Fact* *Ract* *Fpred* *Rpred* *%F* *%R* 
235 60 65 69 85 -13 -24 
200 60 70 60 74 0 -5 
150 35 40 46 57 -24 -30 
140 40 60 44 54 -9 11 
Most everyone is using LESS pressure than the 15% method, but staying above 
25% less pressure. I did a survey about 2 years ago, and pinch flats 
occurred when the actual pressure was > 25% below the 15% tire drop 
pressure.  So it looks like 4 folks are trying to get a more comfortable 
ride but avoiding pinch flats

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ  

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[RBW] Brooks B17

[Surlyprof]

I’ve always loved the regular b17 on my Sam (3-4 years).  When I moved it to my 
Brompton, I replaced it with the sprung b17 Special specifically because I 
loved the shape of the regular.  I now love having the same seat sprung.  It 
does smooth some bumps.  The only thing I don’t like about it is that it creaks 
a little.  Worth it for the ride quality.

John

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Re: [RBW] Brooks B17

[Jeff Lesperance]

I've found it's a mix between anatomy and bike posture. If you have
narrower sit bones (ischial tuberosities) and/or have a more forward
leaning bike posture, then you may be better off with a narrower saddle. If
you have wider sit bones and/or have a more upright bike posture then you
may be better off with a wider saddle. I started with a b17 and found it
didn't work for me for longer days on my drop-bar bikes, and I moved to a
b17n. I then found the b17 worked fine for me on my upright bar bikes. At
some point I moved on to the Brooks Cambium c17 saddle, which I believe is
in between the b17 and b17n in width, and it works great for me for upright
and forward-leaning bike posture.

-Jeff
Silver Spring, MD

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 3:45 PM, Greg Beachy 
wrote:

> Hi all. I’ve decided to get a Brooks B17 for my Sam, however, I’m not sure
> if I should go with the B17 or the B17 narrow. I’m interested in knowing if
> height and weight make a difference or is it simply personal preference?
> Any information, advice and sharing of experiences will be appreciated.
>
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[RBW] Re: Ottolock Initial Reviews???

[Jack K]

I bought a 30" Ottolock pretty much as soon as I saw them available 
mailorder. My first one was replaced quickly and easily by Ottolock, 
because the default combo didn't work and it was impossible to set a new 
combo. The replacement has been flawless so far, though I haven't used it a 
ton. Even if it provides only modest security the combination of light 
weight, small size and ease of use makes it a winner in my mind. BTW, for 
me the Ottolock replaced a luggage lock and seat-leash cable combo, which 
is far less secure and more fiddily to use, though lighter.

WRT the linked video ... I do think Ottolock has (or at least had) a QC 
issue and feel for the guy who got 2 apparently defective replacements. I'm 
very unconvinced by his shim pick test though, since he did the test on a 
defective lock where the pawl wasn't engaging the toothed strap. The fact 
that he was able to slide his defective lock open even without the shim 
makes me wonder how difficult we should have expected it to be to slip a 
shim between the unengaged pawl and the toothed strap. I wish he would have 
asked Ottolock to send him a lock they had tested as working properly when 
he asked for a replacement. That's what I did and they were very helpful 
and quick about providing my warranty replacemnent, even paying for all the 
shipping charges. 

-Jack K.

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 5:25:52 PM UTC-4, tc wrote:
>
> I was going to order one, seems like a great idea and worthwhile lock when 
> they get the bugs out.  But I'm not sold yet for anything longer than a 5 
> min lockup period.
>
> Take a look at this recent video, published last month:  
> https://youtu.be/8EbeBveRgms
>

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[RBW] Brooks B17

[Greg Beachy]

Hi all. I’ve decided to get a Brooks B17 for my Sam, however, I’m not sure if I 
should go with the B17 or the B17 narrow. I’m interested in knowing if height 
and weight make a difference or is it simply personal preference? Any 
information, advice and sharing of experiences will be appreciated. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTT :: 68cm Quickbeam for Huge Rosco Mixte

[Abcyclehank]

Brian Cole,
I either have one that someone backed out of the mystery 10th one.  Called to 
buy one on a Thursday afternoon and talked to Will; have a checking account 
(debit card) for hobbies and was like $50 short.  Called Friday afternoon 
Michigan time after I deposited a check and Will informed me that they 
surprising was a rush on them and they were out.  He apologized even though he 
had no reason to do so. But said one may become available. 48hrs later I was 
the lucky owner of Will’s inspiration and Grant’s design mentoring to land a 
Jumbo Rosco Mountain Mixte.  
Forever grateful to Grant’s commitment to outliers like myself with a 99+cm 
PBH, and Will for continuing the generous thoughts that don’t make sense from a 
bottom line business approach but had been the Rivendell way from ‘94 on.  
Bless this company and all those who have ever worked there past and present.  
Great people doing very good things in the name of biking and living life and 
making the world a better place.

Back to Amit, he is a “true friend” with Michigan ties and an amazing human 
being, so even though we have only met a handful of times in person, if that, I 
considered “gifting” him mine; but he is to gracious to accept.  However 
negotiation continue.  

RMH
West Michigan

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Re: [RBW] Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[Patrick Moore]

I've had a similar noise go away when I lubed the seatpost and, if I'm not
imagining things, I also once found the source either in the stem quill or
the stem clamp.

And don't forget your aiglets.



Patrick "aiglets are not baby aigles" Moore

On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 8:43 PM, Jeff Lesperance 
wrote:

> I had a similar occurrence last year and it turned out to be the seatpost.
> After rebuilding pedals and swapping a bottom bracket to no avail. I
> removed, greased, and reinstalled my seatpost and the clicking sopped.
>
> On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 9:09 PM Brett Callahan 
> wrote:
>
>> I had a similar problem and discovered it the seat.  I swore up and down
>> that it was a pedal, crank, bottom bracket issues and it ended up being the
>> saddle...
>>
>> Double, triple, and quadruple check your saddle, which may be producing a
>> click in you downstroke at certain cadence.
>>
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Re: [RBW] appaloosa tire fit

[Patrick Moore]

The G One replaced the Big One, right? If so, and:

If any of you have G Ones that are 700C X 60 and that you no longer need
and care to sell;

And your G Ones are the absolutely lightest, folding-est, tubeless-est
model in this size that weigh about a pound each;

And they are as new or almost as new;

Then I'm interested in buying, and please get in touch.

Again, I am interested in the update to the Big Ones I own, that are true
60 mm (61 mm on my rims), tubeless, and weigh about 454 grams. I don't want
any other model.

Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[Grant @ Rivendell]

My most puzzling click was fixed by greasing the post, too...about 42 years 
ago. All the suggesions make sense. Additional notes: The click seems to 
come from wherever you're looking when you're looking for it, and it might 
not be there. Change one thing at a time, not two or more---so you can rule 
out things. At some point remove the right crank and snug the drive-side 
cup. My money's on that, but it's still just a guess.

On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 9:52:01 AM UTC-7, George Schick wrote:
>
> Ditto to the posters who pointed to the saddle or seat post.  I have a 
> Trek MTB that was driving me crazy with a similar kind of clicking and I 
> was almost certain that it had to be in the drive train.  It kept getting 
> worse every year.  So finally I decided to bite the bullet and start at the 
> front of the bike and work my way toward the rear, checking and tightening 
> every fastener and lubing where a problem might exist.  When I finally got 
> to the saddle I tightened all the bolts holding it in place - still 
> clicked.  Then I pulled out the seat post, greased it lightly and replaced 
> and *voilà!*, the click had disappeared.
>
> On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 11:59:03 PM UTC-5, Rod Holland wrote:
>>
>> I had a clicking saddle, too. Really did seem to be the pedals, but no...
>>
>> rod
>>
>> On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 9:09:48 PM UTC-4, Brett Callahan wrote:
>>>
>>> I had a similar problem and discovered it the seat.  I swore up and down 
>>> that it was a pedal, crank, bottom bracket issues and it ended up being the 
>>> saddle...
>>>
>>> Double, triple, and quadruple check your saddle, which may be producing 
>>> a click in you downstroke at certain cadence.  
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: PSA - Kogswell P/R 62cm for sale in Los Angeles

[sameness]

I'm out of town this weekend, but it looks like I live about 10 blocks away 
from the seller if anyone needs help with packing and shipping.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: PSA - Kogswell P/R 62cm for sale in Los Angeles

[T Cal]

I also have a Miyata 1000 for local sale:

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/d/miyata-1000-resurrectio-62cm/6599770132.html

I won't bump or update this thread -- wanted to share the photos with the 
group, more than advertise the bikes.

On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 9:25:53 AM UTC-7, T Cal wrote:
>
> This bike is mine - for sale locally in LA.  I'm leaving town and won't be 
> able to arrange shipping.
>
> https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/d/62cm-kogswell-r/6599728588.html
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Lightly grease all contact points lightly in your seat post. Saddle rails, 
seatpost rail rockers, bolt, nut etc. If you have a leather saddle, loosen 
the nose nut and grease the tensioning bolt and where the nut hits the 
frame body. Grease your seatpost, and seat post clamp bolt too. 

As others have mentioned, they found the saddle to be the problem, but the 
noise seems to be coming from the bottom bracket. 

I have experienced the same EXACT clicking you have, and it ended up being 
in the saddle clamp. I also have experienced the same issue and it ended up 
being a chainring bolt. 

I feel your frustration.lol. Been therePerplexing. 

Best of luck.
>

Clayton
#dirtdancedesigns   

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[George Schick]

Ditto to the posters who pointed to the saddle or seat post.  I have a Trek 
MTB that was driving me crazy with a similar kind of clicking and I was 
almost certain that it had to be in the drive train.  It kept getting worse 
every year.  So finally I decided to bite the bullet and start at the front 
of the bike and work my way toward the rear, checking and tightening every 
fastener and lubing where a problem might exist.  When I finally got to the 
saddle I tightened all the bolts holding it in place - still clicked.  Then 
I pulled out the seat post, greased it lightly and replaced and *voilà!*, 
the click had disappeared.

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 11:59:03 PM UTC-5, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> I had a clicking saddle, too. Really did seem to be the pedals, but no...
>
> rod
>
> On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 9:09:48 PM UTC-4, Brett Callahan wrote:
>>
>> I had a similar problem and discovered it the seat.  I swore up and down 
>> that it was a pedal, crank, bottom bracket issues and it ended up being the 
>> saddle...
>>
>> Double, triple, and quadruple check your saddle, which may be producing a 
>> click in you downstroke at certain cadence.  
>>
>

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[RBW] New geometry charts available

[Surlyprof]

Love that they color coded each bike by their commonly used paint color.  Fun 
and easier to use.

John

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Re: [RBW] appaloosa tire fit

[Tom Horton]

Ok thanks  will at riv says they may fit or not depending on the rim  
cliffhanger for example might push them out too much  but a close fit is implied

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 26, 2018, at 6:14 AM, William R.  wrote:
> 
> Hi Tom. I bought a pair of G Ones and tried them on my Joe. Didn’t even take 
> it out of the stand. “Too close for comfort” is an accurate description.
> 
> Bill in Westchester, NY
> 
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[RBW] PSA - Kogswell P/R 62cm for sale in Los Angeles

[T Cal]

This bike is mine - for sale locally in LA.  I'm leaving town and won't be 
able to arrange shipping.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/d/62cm-kogswell-r/6599728588.html

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

['Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Nathan,

I had a similar insanity-producing click a few years ago. After much 
systemic searching, eliminating one variable at a time, it turned out to be 
a water bottle bolt that was not lubed and not tight enough.

Joe in GJT

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 5:52:06 PM UTC-6, Nathan Neuberger wrote:
>
> I'm in need of some help with an aggravating problem. Several years ago my 
> bike developed a clicking sound. It occurs at the same spot in the crank 
> rotation. Curiously, the click does not always happen (sometimes its 
> sleeping), but tends to wake up most often during a climb or when I'm 
> hauling a load. But it occurs during easy riding as well.
>
>
> This winter, my bike was in need of some TLC, so I replaced the chain, 
> cassette, chainring set (but not the crank arms) and the bottom bracket. 
> Overhauled the hubs too. That covered almost every moving part, so I 
> figured that would solve it. Nope.
>
>
> I think it is likely a pedal issue. The clicking only occurs when my right 
> pedal is at about 12:00 (about to start a downstroke) and under relatively 
> heavy pressure. Just pedaling with my left foot does not seem to trigger 
> the click.
>
>
> Bike is a Rivendell Homer Hilsen (2009-ish).  The pedals are MKS grip 
> kings. I took off both pedals, cleaned them, replaced all bearings, and put 
> in tons of grease. I did not see or feel any issues with the races. The 
> click is still there, and seems to have gotten a little worse since I 
> overhauled the pedals. Could the click be caused by the pedal cone being 
> too tight?
>
>
> Any other ideas?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[Clayton.sf]

Not that it is likely ,but last time I had a "crank area" click it ended up 
being my freehub. Few bike things worse than the mystery click. Good luck 
hunting!

Clayton Scott
SF, CA

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[RBW] Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[Ian A]

If using a UN54 bottom bracket, the plastic NDS spacer can crack and cause a 
Click. 

IanA

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[RBW] Re: Tire Pressure Question

[Ron Mc]

Minimum pressure is dictated by two things - enough pressure to protect the 
rim from shocks, and enough to prevent hinge at the bead, the cause of 
pinch flats.  You feel it in your butt if you're getting hinge - the bike 
keeps cornering even though you've steered to straight.  

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 5:44:20 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> John, the non-numeric answer I’ve found most helpful is: enough air to not 
> get snake bite (pinch) flats, not so much air that the cushion requires 
> extra weight to kick in. Grin. If you don’t ride rough stuff, you’ve got a 
> wider range and less risk of snake bite flats. 
>
> Nash, not a stupid question, though you appear to specialize in the 
> corresponding answer. Sardonic grin. Grant and Co. cover it in the new 
> catalog. Jan and Co. tested it extensively and changed the cycling industry 
> because of it. If it helps, snark is easily treated. Inflate tires to max 
> pressure listed on the side wall. Ride gravel roads. Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick, who now ponders if his own snark needs treatment. Oops. Sardonic 
> grin.

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTT :: 68cm Quickbeam for Huge Rosco Mixte

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

If I remember correctly there was one extra sold a little bit later after the 
initial sale but maybe that was one of the original 9 and someone had to back 
out of the presale?  I forget the details but anyone on this list grab that 
last one that became available later?

Both of these models (68QB & WMMixte) were/are on my wishlist but happily 
riding my 65cm ClemH!

Brian Cole
Lawrenceville NJ

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your favorite Rivendell?

[Garth]

>
> !!!  Smiling    Viva la Foghorn I say I say  !!   
>
 

The guy @ Bikesmith, I forgot his name offers a great service indeed !  
 I bought the Andel triple crank arms only from him last year but have not 
installed them yet. I had him do them in 152mm, but if I had to do-again 
I'd do a bit shorter  !  They are quite stout.   

He also shows various mtb and other triples sold as arms or completes, for 
those that are wondering.

If anyone needs a 110 double in short lengths, the Origin8 sells arm sets 
that are perfectly sound and nice looking silver in 5mm increments from 
140-175. I have some 150's.  Origin8 also has a 130/74 triple in 145,155 
and 165 they sell in shiny silver.  Not 110 ?  Hah ... well, if you want a 
wide-low crank these are perfectly fine, I believe the Q is in the low-mid 
150's with a 113mm BB.  The 130 BCD can go down to 38t, so you can set up a 
say 24/38/guard minimum as the wide low. You can get these from all over 
the web retail machine. 

There are lots of other 110 double sold as bmx cranks but some had weight 
limits and I was not familiar with the brands. The Origin8 cranks have been 
around a long time.

 

> Regarding shorter cranks, I just had a machinist friend re-drill a 
> standard crank down to about that 150 range for my son--very hard to find 
> appropriately proportioned cranks for kids. Trek at one point sold some 
> children's bikes with cranks that had two pedal holes on each arm. There 
> can be benefits to more traditionally sized riders as well. Here's more 
> info on the subject from an 
> iBOB who offers, or used to offer? shortening services:  
> http://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/index.html
>
>
> On Monday, May 21, 2018 at 8:39:44 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote: 
> Ahahahahaahahahaahahahahahahahaahahah
>  
> !  !   
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTT :: 68cm Quickbeam for Huge Rosco Mixte

[John G.]

We really need to complete the set and get pics of all 9 posted here.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your favorite Rivendell?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

“What’s it all about boy? Elucidate!”
“That’s a joke, I say that’s a joke son.”
“For-I say fortunately I always carry a spare set of feathers.”
“You know there might, I say there just might be a market for bottled duck.”
“That’s what I’ve been – I say, that’s what I’ve been telling you, boy!”
“That dog’s as subtle as a hand grenade in a barrel of oatmeal.”
“It’s sure, I say it’s sure quiet around here. You could hear a caterpillar 
sneakin’ across a moss bed in tennis shoes.”

Oh, wait. Favorite *Rivendell*. I thought this was the Favorite Foghorn 
Leghorn sayings thread...

Regarding shorter cranks, I just had a machinist friend re-drill a standard 
crank down to about that 150 range for my son--very hard to find 
appropriately proportioned cranks for kids. Trek at one point sold some 
children's bikes with cranks that had two pedal holes on each arm. There 
can be benefits to more traditionally sized riders as well. Here's more 
info on the subject from an 
iBOB who offers, or used to offer? shortening services:  
http://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/index.html


On Monday, May 21, 2018 at 8:39:44 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote: 
Ahahahahaahahahaahahahahahahahaahahah
 
!  !   
>
>
>
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[ascpgh]

Tuesday I was happy it rained on my ride because of a similar audible. The 
sounds distracted from the clicking until I got home. 

I had recently disassembled my bike to frame, fork, HS, and BB* so I was 
able to eliminate suspicion from those two major fittings in pursuit of the 
noise. What I did find was the right crank bolt required tightening, even 
though I had just recently done so when reassembling the bike. I find that 
cranks, which have been unproblematic in the past, will go through a period 
requiring frequent re-torquing after any removal and reinstallation before 
they return to their trouble-free status requiring only verification of 
torque, not tightening

I went straight to what I hoped was the cause of the clicking and got 
lucky... no science other than being able to isolate to drivetrain or 
otherwise, then to either a phase of power on or off. I just start with the 
biggest parts like HS and BB, then systematically work my way toward the 
smaller things. Once I found a fender stay clamp at the fork dropout that 
had been exposed to enough road dirt that it was beginning to make a faint 
half-hearted chirp. That was easily dismissed from the big parts and 
connections but frustrating none the less. 

** Taking apart my bike was to have a frame builder re-braze my seatstay 
bridge to the stays where it had begun to break through the brazing of its 
original construction, something I discovered before it was making noise, 
but is a cautionary note to check your frame when pursuing new unexplained 
sounds, especially when they involve your higher effort input. I caught 
mine soon enough to avoid any event and get it fixed. *

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh



On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 7:52:06 PM UTC-4, Nathan Neuberger wrote:
>
> I'm in need of some help with an aggravating problem. Several years ago my 
> bike developed a clicking sound. It occurs at the same spot in the crank 
> rotation. Curiously, the click does not always happen (sometimes its 
> sleeping), but tends to wake up most often during a climb or when I'm 
> hauling a load. But it occurs during easy riding as well.
>
>
> This winter, my bike was in need of some TLC, so I replaced the chain, 
> cassette, chainring set (but not the crank arms) and the bottom bracket. 
> Overhauled the hubs too. That covered almost every moving part, so I 
> figured that would solve it. Nope.
>
>
> I think it is likely a pedal issue. The clicking only occurs when my right 
> pedal is at about 12:00 (about to start a downstroke) and under relatively 
> heavy pressure. Just pedaling with my left foot does not seem to trigger 
> the click.
>
>
> Bike is a Rivendell Homer Hilsen (2009-ish).  The pedals are MKS grip 
> kings. I took off both pedals, cleaned them, replaced all bearings, and put 
> in tons of grease. I did not see or feel any issues with the races. The 
> click is still there, and seems to have gotten a little worse since I 
> overhauled the pedals. Could the click be caused by the pedal cone being 
> too tight?
>
>
> Any other ideas?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[Ron Mc]

My buddy had one so bad it offended me - found in the pedal.  I've had two 
pedal occurrences solved by rebuilding pedals.  Have one intermittent now - 
disappears after the pedal warms, but there's no free play in the pedal, 
the maker provides good rebuild service, plus I have spare pedals.  
Swapping pedals is the surest test.  If your crank is making that noise, it 
may already be cracked, and retorquing will hasten its demise.  

On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 1:37:41 AM UTC-5, Peter Adler wrote:
>
> It could also be the driveside crankarm. If the crank bolt has loosened, 
> the crankarm may not be firmly seated. The pedal/arm at 12:00 is near the 
> point of maximum pressure, in the opinion of this 
> non-physicist/non-engineer; if there's going to be some flex in the 
> spindle/crank taper join, that's a logical place for it to present itself.
>
> Extract crankarm from BB spindle, clean crank taper and spindle, 
> regrease/re-antiseize (or not, depending on your religious position on 
> spindle lubrication), reinstall crankarm, screw down to full torque.
>
> It's also possible that the taper in the crankarm has worn down to the 
> point where the spindle is bottoming out, or close to it. Replace crankarm 
> or spindle, in whichever kludge gets you back to acceptable chainline.
>
> Peter "had a similar experience once with a Phil Wood BB and unknown-to-me 
> non-tapered Lambert crank; took a year to figure it out" Adler
> Berkeley, CA
>
> On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 10:13:15 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>>
>> This exact problem happened to my Betty Foy. Idemtical thing to what you 
>> are describing. Same spot in rotation of the right pedal, worse uphill and 
>> hauling loads. I swore it was my pedal. Nope.  I took it in and it was the 
>> bottom bracket. Loose, I think? Have had no issue since!
>
>

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[RBW] appaloosa tire fit

[William R.]

Hi Tom. I bought a pair of G Ones and tried them on my Joe. Didn’t even take it 
out of the stand. “Too close for comfort” is an accurate description.

Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Re: Tire Pressure Question

[John Hawrylak]

Deacon

I agree with your experimental method, especially for non paved roads.  My 
75% value was an attempt to provide the same protection against snake bits 
and ensure the tire does not collapse for a range of total weights and tire 
sizes.  I forget to mention it was for paved roads. 

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ 

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 6:44:20 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> John, the non-numeric answer I’ve found most helpful is: enough air to not 
> get snake bite (pinch) flats, not so much air that the cushion requires 
> extra weight to kick in. Grin. If you don’t ride rough stuff, you’ve got a 
> wider range and less risk of snake bite flats. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[Peter Adler]

It could also be the driveside crankarm. If the crank bolt has loosened, 
the crankarm may not be firmly seated. The pedal/arm at 12:00 is near the 
point of maximum pressure, in the opinion of this 
non-physicist/non-engineer; if there's going to be some flex in the 
spindle/crank taper join, that's a logical place for it to present itself.

Extract crankarm from BB spindle, clean crank taper and spindle, 
regrease/re-antiseize (or not, depending on your religious position on 
spindle lubrication), reinstall crankarm, screw down to full torque.

It's also possible that the taper in the crankarm has worn down to the 
point where the spindle is bottoming out, or close to it. Replace crankarm 
or spindle, in whichever kludge gets you back to acceptable chainline.

Peter "had a similar experience once with a Phil Wood BB and unknown-to-me 
non-tapered Lambert crank; took a year to figure it out" Adler
Berkeley, CA

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 10:13:15 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> This exact problem happened to my Betty Foy. Idemtical thing to what you 
> are describing. Same spot in rotation of the right pedal, worse uphill and 
> hauling loads. I swore it was my pedal. Nope.  I took it in and it was the 
> bottom bracket. Loose, I think? Have had no issue since!

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