[RBW] FS: Rubber Grips, cafe (rear wheel) lock

[Shawn Granton]

 

Happy Weekend, List of Riv:


Alright, this should be the last for sale post for a little bit. Sorting 
out "the bike workshop" I found a few more things that should be passed on 
to someone who can use it.


*Purchase/Ordering Notes:* Price does not include postage. (Postage 
estimate for US orders is between $3-8) If you are interested, please 
message me at urbanadventurelea...@gmail.com with your ZIP Code. Payment 
can be made via PayPal. Live in the Portland, Oregon area? We can do local 
pickup, within reason, preferably in North Tabor/Montavilla, where I’m 
based. No cash sales this time, you’ll still need to commit to the purchase 
via PayPal if you are local.



   - *YVS Cafe (Rear Wheel) Lock:* A very European city bike accessory, 
   this simple lock mounts to the seatstays fore of the brakes. The lock 
   prevents the rear wheel from moving, good for a quick run into the cafe 
   (hence its common name.) Or, use it in conjunction with another lock for 
   added security. Includes two keys but no mounting hardware. (I use zip ties 
   to mount.) This is the style of lock that does not integrate with a chain 
   or cable. (But you can put the loop of a cable through the shank.) *$10*
   - *Rustines Constructeur rubber grips, white. *A very nice French grip, sold 
   by Velo Orange. 
   

 
   Soft and comfortable. Designed for MTB bars (22.2) but since they are soft 
   rubber, should be able to stretch to fit road (23.8) bars. New in box, 
   never been used! *$12*
   - *Kraton "Basket Weave" Grips.* Another set of soft rubber grips sold 
   by Velo Orange. 
   
Designed
 
   for MTB bars (22.2) but since they are soft rubber, should be able to 
   stretch to fit road (23.8) bars. These ones have been used. *$3*

Photos here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/urbanadventureleaguepdx/albums/72157709325933057

Best,
Shawn in PDX

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[RBW] Re: Rough Stuff Fellowship - Carradice Top Tube Panniers

[Shawn Granton]

Very cool, Marty! I also ordered the Rough Stuff book with Carradice top 
tube panniers, and still am waiting on my order. I couldn't pass up the 
chance to try out the panniers!

>From what I heard, Carradice may be interested in bringing the panniers 
back in regular production.

Best,
Shawn in PDX

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 5:16:16 AM UTC-7, Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
PA wrote:
>
> I signed up for the Rough Stuff Fellowship Kickstarter campaign last year. 
> Loved the idea of the reproduction top tube panniers Carradice made back in 
> the day. The package from the UK arrived yesterday and I am thrilled. 
> Perfect fit for my 63cm AR. Lovely dark green waxed cotton. Nice plaid 
> lining. These will do nicely for the riding I do. Also got the archive book 
> which is brilliant too. Not sure they have any more of these left, or if 
> Carradice will ever make more. I think the limit was 100 sets. You can look 
> it up on Kickstarter. More pics in the AR album on Flickr here:  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32306142@N07/albums/72157708799863597
>
> Marty
>
> [image: IMG_6000.jpg]
>
> [image: IMG_5993.jpg]
>
> [image: IMG_5999.jpg]
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Johnny Alien]

The problem is that the guard is for 44t coverage so it will be way larger 
than I need and result in a larger looking crank which I am trying to 
avoid.  The New Albion that Rivendell sells comes in a wide low but the 
large ring is 40 and I assume the guard is around 42 or 44 like the Sugino. 
I really would like a low/low with the largest ring being no larger than 
36.  That would be achieved perfectly by taking the large ring off a Sugino 
triple.  I just need to decide on keeping it guard free ala Roman's bike or 
try to use the Silver guard which is a 36 size and would keep the overall 
look of the crank smaller.

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Eric Karnes]

* 'old' Sugino cranks...not 'only.' Phone autocorrect.

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 8:46:18 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Ben's Cycle sells (what I assume is) the chain guard that was on the XD2 
> wide low that Riv used to sell:
>
>
> https://www.benscycle.com/sugino-chainring-chainguard-110bcd-44t-silver/chainring_guard_sugino__434-435_434-435/product
>
> Probably worth shooting them an email for a photo before shelling out $50 
> bucks. Though if the Silver works on only Sugino cranks, I'd rather give my 
> money to Rivendell.
>
> Eric
>
> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 7:30:53 PM UTC-4, Scott G. wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 7:20:01 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
>>> If I am understanding things correctly I could also get a Sugino triple, 
>>> remove the outer ring and install a Silver chainguard. 
>>>
>>
>> Spa Cycles sells a double with a chainguard, looks Sugino ish.
>>
>>
>> https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b17s109p3383/SPA-CYCLES-Super-Compact-Chainset-with-Zicral-Rings
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Eric Karnes]

Ben's Cycle sells (what I assume is) the chain guard that was on the XD2 
wide low that Riv used to sell:

https://www.benscycle.com/sugino-chainring-chainguard-110bcd-44t-silver/chainring_guard_sugino__434-435_434-435/product

Probably worth shooting them an email for a photo before shelling out $50 
bucks. Though if the Silver works on only Sugino cranks, I'd rather give my 
money to Rivendell.

Eric

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 7:30:53 PM UTC-4, Scott G. wrote:
>
>
>
> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 7:20:01 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>> If I am understanding things correctly I could also get a Sugino triple, 
>> remove the outer ring and install a Silver chainguard. 
>>
>
> Spa Cycles sells a double with a chainguard, looks Sugino ish.
>
>
> https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b17s109p3383/SPA-CYCLES-Super-Compact-Chainset-with-Zicral-Rings
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Scott G.]

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 7:20:01 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> If I am understanding things correctly I could also get a Sugino triple, 
> remove the outer ring and install a Silver chainguard. 
>

Spa Cycles sells a double with a chainguard, looks Sugino ish.

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b17s109p3383/SPA-CYCLES-Super-Compact-Chainset-with-Zicral-Rings


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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Johnny Alien]

If I am understanding things correctly I could also get a Sugino triple, 
remove the outer ring and install a Silver chainguard.  It should mount 
properly to the Sugino and they have a small guard designed for a 34-36T 
outer ring. Then I would not need to buy new bolts and it would only be 
about $15 more than going that route.  Still maintains the small ring look 
and would prevent the chain from coming off if the derailler was not 
properly adjusted. I am not sure which way I will go.  Roman's bike looks 
great with just the outer ring removed.  I should ask him if he has any 
problems with that setup.

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Re: [RBW] Film cameras on bike rides?

[David Bivins]

I'm getting a vibe that people feel like the Leica III is more fragile than
it is. Granted, I don't know which model Philip has. I haven't heard of a
IIId. Dropping any camera is a problem. Dropping an M4 (or 3 or 2 and on
up) is always more of a problem because the viewfinder and rangefinder are
integrated. I dropped an MP (newer version) from less than a foot and
cracked the viewfinder window. But the III (especially the c and later
because the body is die cast) is probably one of the most solid cameras
you'll ever find, certainly more durable than anything you can buy today.
They also made a ton of them.
If you need service, try Youxin Ye. He's great for the older bodies and
lenses and affordable.
My black III is a rough and tumble go-get-em camera, and I'm never afraid
to take it anywhere. It's certainly a lot more able to withstand rain and
bumpy rides than anything modern other than the flagship Canon and Nikon
weather-sealed, etc. bodies. It looks a lot like this one:
http://www.luistriguez.es/fotos/cameras/leicaiii/index_leicaiii.htm



On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 12:22 PM Peter White  wrote:

> Yeah, my IIIc survived many miles in a rack-top pack on my mountain bike
> in years past. A little padding goes a long way.
>
> On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 12:02 PM Philip Williamson <
> philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the info. I tend to agree on not stressing the Leica. I do
>> like carrying it, but maybe not on the bike. My old Sony Nex with a CCTV
>> lens might be a better bike camera. Not film, but still fun. If it broke,
>> it would be a good excuse to upgrade.
>>
>> I am interested in the strap. I think it’s the one I’m imagining.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Philip
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:34 AM Eric Norris  wrote:
>>
>>> Phillip:
>>>
>>> I’ll answer in more detail when I’m back at my computer, but here are
>>> some bullets points:
>>>
>>> 1) I would  urge caution carrying your Leica in the bike. Leica are
>>> rugged, but your iii is probably 50 or so years old, and the internal
>>> workings of the rangefinder will be its Achilles heel. I dropped a Leica M4
>>> from a few inches, and ended up with a $175 repair when the old glue inside
>>> gave way. It can be very easy to break something or just knock it put off
>>> alignment, all of which is expensive to fix. (Note: I found a great Leica
>>> repairman ifyou need one.)
>>>
>>> 2) As far as straps—I have one that let’s you carry the camera on your
>>> back and then swing it around to the front to take a photo. Made by a
>>> cyclist. I’ll find a link. I don’t use mine enough, and I’ll be happy to
>>> sell it to you at a great price.
>>>
>>> –Eric N
>>>
>>>
>>> > On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:39 PM, Philip Williamson <
>>> philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > What’s the best way to carry a valuable/sentimental/fragile film
>>> camera on mixed terrain bike rides?
>>> >
>>> > I have a Leica iii(d) I inherited and refurbished that I very much
>>> like to shoot. When I’m walking around, the best setup seems to be running
>>> both ends of the metal snake strap to the right lug, and tucking the camera
>>> into my jacket’s zippered outside breast pocket. I can imagine getting an
>>> old-style jersey with a kangaroo boob pocket, but I don’t have one now.
>>> >
>>> > I’ve seen sliding harness “systems” in my flickr days, but I was too
>>> poor to consider them then. If there’s a quick-draw strap that keeps the
>>> camera close to the body and stable, I would consider it now. If the same
>>> thing can be rigged up for cheap, I’m interested in that, too. I’m happy to
>>> basket or frame-bag carry, too, but it seems/feels like my body would damp
>>> road shock better.
>>> >
>>> > I was super-impressed with a Rivster’s basket net rig to transport a
>>> heavy Mamiya (?) safely offroad, since I have a C3 and a small Graflex.
>>> This question is more for carrying the little Leica, though.
>>> >
>>> > I don’t imagine there’s a better place to ask this question.
>>> >
>>> > Philip
>>> > Santa Rosa, CA
>>> >
>>> > --
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Re: [RBW] Converting a triple to a low/low

[David Johnston]

Another problem to keep an eye out for if you don't use an outer ring
at all, is that some front derailleurs may not have enough adjustment
in the outer limit screw to keep the chain from falling off the
outside. I think most derailleurs won't have this problem but it can
happen.

I had a problem on an LX low clamp model where when the outer limit
screw was adjusted centered over the middle the adjustment screw
interfered with the derailleur movement as it swung towards the small
ring, since I was using a guard as an outer I just backed off a bit on
the screw and the guard keeps the chain from falling off.

On 6/29/19, Patrick Moore  wrote:
> I turned a 46-36-24 XD2 into a 36-24 XD2 by removing the outer ring and
> adjusting the throw of the front derailleur cage; worked just fine. Later
> swapped the 36 for a 38 and added a guard in the outer position, but didn't
> change the fd height. Continued to work fine.
>
> My Matthews has a Logic (triple) crank with 42 and 28; don't know if that
> qualifies as a low low, but it works fine.
>
> I expect Sugino makes the Silver cranks.
>
> On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:18 AM Johnny Alien 
> wrote:
>
>> So I posted a thread looking for a crankset because I didn't want to
>> spend
>> a ton and didn't feel like piecing one together. The New Albion wide/low
>> has different gearing than the old Sugino one and what I really would
>> prefer is a low/low gearing but at the Sugino price.  Then it occurred to
>> me that the triple minus the large ring is pretty much a low/low and you
>> can grab those pretty cheap. And Sugino quality (while not as great as
>> Silver I am sure) is pretty high.  Would there be any hangups with
>> getting
>> an XD triple and removing that large ring?  Anything that I am not
>> thinking
>> of?
>>
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>> .
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>>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> **
>
>
>
>
>
> *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And
> though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the
> hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
> ---
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
> Other professional writing services
> Expensive! But good.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>
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Re: [RBW] Converting a triple to a low/low

[Patrick Moore]

I turned a 46-36-24 XD2 into a 36-24 XD2 by removing the outer ring and
adjusting the throw of the front derailleur cage; worked just fine. Later
swapped the 36 for a 38 and added a guard in the outer position, but didn't
change the fd height. Continued to work fine.

My Matthews has a Logic (triple) crank with 42 and 28; don't know if that
qualifies as a low low, but it works fine.

I expect Sugino makes the Silver cranks.

On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:18 AM Johnny Alien 
wrote:

> So I posted a thread looking for a crankset because I didn't want to spend
> a ton and didn't feel like piecing one together. The New Albion wide/low
> has different gearing than the old Sugino one and what I really would
> prefer is a low/low gearing but at the Sugino price.  Then it occurred to
> me that the triple minus the large ring is pretty much a low/low and you
> can grab those pretty cheap. And Sugino quality (while not as great as
> Silver I am sure) is pretty high.  Would there be any hangups with getting
> an XD triple and removing that large ring?  Anything that I am not thinking
> of?
>
> --
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-- 



**





*Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And
though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the
hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
--- J.R.R. Tolkien
---
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
Other professional writing services
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Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Johnny Alien]

I think that is exactly what u am going to do. I wasn't sure if I needed to 
replace the bolts so that is helpful. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Garth]

  You could also remove the large ring and don't use anything in that 
position.  Replace the double chainring bolts with single chainring variety 
for the 36t and so you have just the 24/36 alone.  

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Elisabeth Sherwood]

So, how does one go about cutting down the teeth on a chainring?  I 
practically never use my large chainring; on another bike I replaced it 
with a chainguard, but would be happy with another option!

Thanks in advance,

Liz
Washington, DC


On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 1:01:44 PM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> For what Roman did you would need shorter "track" style chain ring bolts. 
> I googled $22 for Sugino at Ben's or $8 shipped for generic on ebay. 
> You might have to experiment with F derailleurs for optimal placement. 
> Maybe a shorter cage double road derailleur or an old Micro Drive front 
> would work better. Many mountain or road Triple derailleurs will hit the 
> chain stay if you lower them, see how high the derailleur is in the pic 
> below, and the tail just clears the stay. 
>
> Be warned: An indexed front shifter will probably not work well when 
> changing rings.
>
> I prefer cutting down an outer ring to act as a guard, but that gives you 
> a large ring "look".
>
> [image: Willow Guard.jpg]
>
>
> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:43:01 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>> Yes I agree that is the simplest method! The main reason I would remove 
>> it is because I don't use it and prefer the look of a crankset with small 
>> rings.  It's a visual thing for me.
>>
>> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:38:19 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> It's even simpler: don't ride the outer ring, consider it a rockguard 
>>> with teeth, and a "holy smokes this is a wonderful 10 mile gentle descent 
>>> with a tailwind that never happens" gear. Grin. But yes, nothing fancy. My 
>>> QB has a single front chainring on its stock triple, leaving the two inside 
>>> slots open, and it rides beautifully despite the chainline being "wrong". 
>>> Quiet and smooth as a mouse. If I ever decide to add a ring, I likely have 
>>> some thread cleaning to do, otherwise no biggie. Purists may say you need 
>>> to do xz,y, or z. Only if you're a purist. I'm not. I'm a dirtist. Grin.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rough Stuff Fellowship - Carradice Top Tube Panniers

[Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA]

No issue with knee contact at all. Really well thought out design. 

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 2:14:01 PM UTC-4, Drw wrote:
>
> Thanks for posting this. I was curious what these were gonna end up 
> looking like. Any issues with knee contact? 

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[RBW] WTT: my 48 noodle for your aluminum albatross

[A. Nostuh]

Simple trade if anyone would prefer a 48 noodle bar over their alloy (not 
steel) albatross. Please PM me

Al in Saratoga 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Single Pivot Brake Tool

[George Schick]

The tool has been spoken for.  Thanks, all.


On Friday, June 28, 2019 at 3:39:54 PM UTC-5, George Schick wrote:
>
> No, not "for sale," *Free Stuff!  *I'll be turning 70 in just over a 
> week, plus my wife is strongly encouraging me to get rid of things in an 
> attempt to prepare for eventual down sizing.  So here's this tool, left 
> over from the days of single pivot side-pull or center-pull brakes that 
> allows you to hold the brake in a steady position by inserting the two 
> prongs into the two springs on the back side of the brakes while tightening 
> the securing bolt.  Campy Record was the only one I can recall from those 
> years that did not require such a device because it had slots on each side 
> of the mounting arm that would allow the use of a thin axle wrench to hold 
> it steady.  Newer dual-pivot brakes do not require this tool since they 
> have a micro-ajust set screw to even the brake pads.  But, if you're still 
> using older style single-pivot SP or CP brakes you may find such a tool 
> handy.  As I reduce my inventory I am feeling generous and will even pay 
> the postage to ship it to someone (unless you feel compelled to 
> compensate).  It's first come, first send, all pending on how well the PM 
> mail on this Google works.
>
> [image: DSCN0928.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Rough Stuff Fellowship - Carradice Top Tube Panniers

[Drw]

Thanks for posting this. I was curious what these were gonna end up looking 
like. Any issues with knee contact? 

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Dave Johnston]

For what Roman did you would need shorter "track" style chain ring bolts. I 
googled $22 for Sugino at Ben's or $8 shipped for generic on ebay. 
You might have to experiment with F derailleurs for optimal placement. 
Maybe a shorter cage double road derailleur or an old Micro Drive front 
would work better. Many mountain or road Triple derailleurs will hit the 
chain stay if you lower them, see how high the derailleur is in the pic 
below, and the tail just clears the stay. 

Be warned: An indexed front shifter will probably not work well when 
changing rings.

I prefer cutting down an outer ring to act as a guard, but that gives you a 
large ring "look".

[image: Willow Guard.jpg]


On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:43:01 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> Yes I agree that is the simplest method! The main reason I would remove it 
> is because I don't use it and prefer the look of a crankset with small 
> rings.  It's a visual thing for me.
>
> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:38:19 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> It's even simpler: don't ride the outer ring, consider it a rockguard 
>> with teeth, and a "holy smokes this is a wonderful 10 mile gentle descent 
>> with a tailwind that never happens" gear. Grin. But yes, nothing fancy. My 
>> QB has a single front chainring on its stock triple, leaving the two inside 
>> slots open, and it rides beautifully despite the chainline being "wrong". 
>> Quiet and smooth as a mouse. If I ever decide to add a ring, I likely have 
>> some thread cleaning to do, otherwise no biggie. Purists may say you need 
>> to do xz,y, or z. Only if you're a purist. I'm not. I'm a dirtist. Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>

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[RBW] rebuilding the SimpleOne

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

jandrews,

Sweet! You're gonna love it! A few thoughts to keep in mind:

-- not sure the clearance on the S1 v QB silver, but while I could fit a 44 
Snosqualmie on it there was little tire clearance in the rear axel forward 
gear, and that's without nobbies.
-- I like your "ride whatcha got" philosophy with the 20t freewheel. Keep in 
mind with a freewheel you can gear lower than fixed because you can coast, 
which gives more effective range. But what terrain are you riding? My fixed QB 
has 42 x 17/21 for a go-fast allways (w/ underbiking) spirited ride, and it's 
delightful. So, I agree with you, 40/32 x 20 sounds low. 48 x 40 as a starting 
point?
-- another option is to play with the rear cog sizing if you have a flip/flop 
(and if you have a fixed/free flip flop, give fixed a try even with a same size 
cog! What a blast!). Gear a lower fixed gear for trail riding, where the fixed 
gear really shines on stable climbs, rolling over rocks and roots, and 
"pushing" you up hills (still don't grasp the physics of that, but it's a real 
thing, at least by feel and by gearing size).
-- Reading between the lines, you've not ridden the QB/S1 before? Wow, are you 
in for a treat! Prepare to be coached. SS and fixed are the best cycling 
coaches I can imagine and their first and constant lesson is humility. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: rebuilding the SimpleOne

[jandrews]

Yes full repaint while they were at it
Can post better pics later 

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[RBW] Re: rebuilding the SimpleOne

[JohnS]

On my QB I have 42 chain ring and an 18 cog, which works very well on the 
flats and mild hills, so I would think your combination should be fine.

Did they repaint the whole bike? Looks great either way.

JohnS

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:30:44 PM UTC-4, jandrews wrote:
>
> I just received my SimpleOne I purchased new as a pre-sale from Bilenky 
> after having the seat tube repaired.  I had accidentally dented the seat 
> tube by over tightening a front derailleur on it when doing some geared 
> SimpleOne experiments.
>
>
> Planning on running it the way it was intended ...as a manually shifted 
> 2-speed with an 8-tooth spread up front and a single freewheel in the back
>
> The bike will be a trail and road bike.  Will be fenderless wearing 700x43 
> Bruce Gordon RnR's.  There are a lot of hills where I live so I'll need to 
> be careful where I take it.  Fortunately the rail trails around here are 
> plentiful and mostly flat.
>
> I already have a White Ind 20t freewheel which is a few teeth bigger than 
> most run on their QB's/ SO's ..and I don't really want to buy another 
> freewheel.
> So, my question is ...
> Any thoughts as to a front combo that would play nicely with the 20t in 
> the rear?
>
> I think the standard-ish 40/32 may be too low with that 20t , but given 
> that the bike will be mostly trail riding and using large tires, maybe it's 
> fine.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions ?
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Johnny Alien]

Yes I agree that is the simplest method! The main reason I would remove it 
is because I don't use it and prefer the look of a crankset with small 
rings.  It's a visual thing for me.

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:38:19 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> It's even simpler: don't ride the outer ring, consider it a rockguard with 
> teeth, and a "holy smokes this is a wonderful 10 mile gentle descent with a 
> tailwind that never happens" gear. Grin. But yes, nothing fancy. My QB has 
> a single front chainring on its stock triple, leaving the two inside slots 
> open, and it rides beautifully despite the chainline being "wrong". Quiet 
> and smooth as a mouse. If I ever decide to add a ring, I likely have some 
> thread cleaning to do, otherwise no biggie. Purists may say you need to do 
> xz,y, or z. Only if you're a purist. I'm not. I'm a dirtist. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

It's even simpler: don't ride the outer ring, consider it a rockguard with 
teeth, and a "holy smokes this is a wonderful 10 mile gentle descent with a 
tailwind that never happens" gear. Grin. But yes, nothing fancy. My QB has a 
single front chainring on its stock triple, leaving the two inside slots open, 
and it rides beautifully despite the chainline being "wrong". Quiet and smooth 
as a mouse. If I ever decide to add a ring, I likely have some thread cleaning 
to do, otherwise no biggie. Purists may say you need to do xz,y, or z. Only if 
you're a purist. I'm not. I'm a dirtist. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Johnny Alien]

Thanks Dave. I shot you a message.  Yes removing the large ring would leave 
36/26.  It looks like Roman at Riv did the exact thing I am talking about. 
I am just not sure if it is as simple as removing a ring or if there is 
more I would have to do.

https://process.filepicker.io/AevbsiaW2SbOjYpq8ea4Az/resize=width:1500/https://www.filepicker.io/api/file/aL4JuVPrS2yLwv9HUPZb

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Re: [RBW] Film cameras on bike rides?

[Peter White]

Yeah, my IIIc survived many miles in a rack-top pack on my mountain bike in
years past. A little padding goes a long way.

On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 12:02 PM Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the info. I tend to agree on not stressing the Leica. I do like
> carrying it, but maybe not on the bike. My old Sony Nex with a CCTV lens
> might be a better bike camera. Not film, but still fun. If it broke, it
> would be a good excuse to upgrade.
>
> I am interested in the strap. I think it’s the one I’m imagining.
>
> Thanks!
> Philip
>
> On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:34 AM Eric Norris  wrote:
>
>> Phillip:
>>
>> I’ll answer in more detail when I’m back at my computer, but here are
>> some bullets points:
>>
>> 1) I would  urge caution carrying your Leica in the bike. Leica are
>> rugged, but your iii is probably 50 or so years old, and the internal
>> workings of the rangefinder will be its Achilles heel. I dropped a Leica M4
>> from a few inches, and ended up with a $175 repair when the old glue inside
>> gave way. It can be very easy to break something or just knock it put off
>> alignment, all of which is expensive to fix. (Note: I found a great Leica
>> repairman ifyou need one.)
>>
>> 2) As far as straps—I have one that let’s you carry the camera on your
>> back and then swing it around to the front to take a photo. Made by a
>> cyclist. I’ll find a link. I don’t use mine enough, and I’ll be happy to
>> sell it to you at a great price.
>>
>> –Eric N
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:39 PM, Philip Williamson <
>> philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > What’s the best way to carry a valuable/sentimental/fragile film
>> camera on mixed terrain bike rides?
>> >
>> > I have a Leica iii(d) I inherited and refurbished that I very much like
>> to shoot. When I’m walking around, the best setup seems to be running both
>> ends of the metal snake strap to the right lug, and tucking the camera into
>> my jacket’s zippered outside breast pocket. I can imagine getting an
>> old-style jersey with a kangaroo boob pocket, but I don’t have one now.
>> >
>> > I’ve seen sliding harness “systems” in my flickr days, but I was too
>> poor to consider them then. If there’s a quick-draw strap that keeps the
>> camera close to the body and stable, I would consider it now. If the same
>> thing can be rigged up for cheap, I’m interested in that, too. I’m happy to
>> basket or frame-bag carry, too, but it seems/feels like my body would damp
>> road shock better.
>> >
>> > I was super-impressed with a Rivster’s basket net rig to transport a
>> heavy Mamiya (?) safely offroad, since I have a C3 and a small Graflex.
>> This question is more for carrying the little Leica, though.
>> >
>> > I don’t imagine there’s a better place to ask this question.
>> >
>> > Philip
>> > Santa Rosa, CA
>> >
>> > --
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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Erik Wright]

Sean & Chris,

I didn't have to dimple the chainstays, but I did have a local builder add 
canti posts at 650b height. I will say that the clearances are tight both 
at the fork crown and the chainstays, but there's about 3-4mm of space left 
in both places. I haven't measured the actual tire width, but I'm guessing 
the fact that they're mounted to Velocity Dyads is keeping them from 
pumping up to their full 54mm stated width.

Related to wheel diameter, a big concern of mine with this conversion was 
dropping the bb too low, especially given my intent of riding off road. I 
am getting a bit of pedal strike on rocky trails, but I'm just having to 
pay closer attention to my riding technique and not blowing over the 
terrain. I used this website  to 
crunch wheel diameter numbers before I committed. I was running Snoqualmie 
Pass tires before, so 700x44 = a wheel diameter of ~710mm. Now with 
650x2.1, it's ~690mm.

When I thought about the conversion dropping the bb 2cm lower, I also took 
into consideration that the bike likely wasn't designed around a 44mm tire, 
and probabaly a 35 or 38mm tire, which has a wheel diameter of ~696mm. So 
while it's 2cm lower than where I had it, it's not really much lower than 
it *would* be if I had 700x35ish tires.

All in all, these are approximations, and I just went for it. The bike is 
very, very cool and I think I'm having the most fun on a bike I've had in a 
while. I'm amazed at how fast and fun the ride is. I attribute it to great 
frame design and great tires.

Erik

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 11:31:45 AM UTC-4, Sean Kline wrote:
>
> Hi Erik, lime Chris’ question, do you know how much wheel cm you gained 
> going to 650b? What what was your wheel diameter before and after? 
>
> Thanks, 
> Sean

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Re: [RBW] Film cameras on bike rides?

[Philip Williamson]

Thanks for the info. I tend to agree on not stressing the Leica. I do like
carrying it, but maybe not on the bike. My old Sony Nex with a CCTV lens
might be a better bike camera. Not film, but still fun. If it broke, it
would be a good excuse to upgrade.

I am interested in the strap. I think it’s the one I’m imagining.

Thanks!
Philip

On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:34 AM Eric Norris  wrote:

> Phillip:
>
> I’ll answer in more detail when I’m back at my computer, but here are some
> bullets points:
>
> 1) I would  urge caution carrying your Leica in the bike. Leica are
> rugged, but your iii is probably 50 or so years old, and the internal
> workings of the rangefinder will be its Achilles heel. I dropped a Leica M4
> from a few inches, and ended up with a $175 repair when the old glue inside
> gave way. It can be very easy to break something or just knock it put off
> alignment, all of which is expensive to fix. (Note: I found a great Leica
> repairman ifyou need one.)
>
> 2) As far as straps—I have one that let’s you carry the camera on your
> back and then swing it around to the front to take a photo. Made by a
> cyclist. I’ll find a link. I don’t use mine enough, and I’ll be happy to
> sell it to you at a great price.
>
> –Eric N
>
>
> > On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:39 PM, Philip Williamson <
> philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > What’s the best way to carry a valuable/sentimental/fragile film camera
> on mixed terrain bike rides?
> >
> > I have a Leica iii(d) I inherited and refurbished that I very much like
> to shoot. When I’m walking around, the best setup seems to be running both
> ends of the metal snake strap to the right lug, and tucking the camera into
> my jacket’s zippered outside breast pocket. I can imagine getting an
> old-style jersey with a kangaroo boob pocket, but I don’t have one now.
> >
> > I’ve seen sliding harness “systems” in my flickr days, but I was too
> poor to consider them then. If there’s a quick-draw strap that keeps the
> camera close to the body and stable, I would consider it now. If the same
> thing can be rigged up for cheap, I’m interested in that, too. I’m happy to
> basket or frame-bag carry, too, but it seems/feels like my body would damp
> road shock better.
> >
> > I was super-impressed with a Rivster’s basket net rig to transport a
> heavy Mamiya (?) safely offroad, since I have a C3 and a small Graflex.
> This question is more for carrying the little Leica, though.
> >
> > I don’t imagine there’s a better place to ask this question.
> >
> > Philip
> > Santa Rosa, CA
> >
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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Dave Johnston]

What size rings are you talking about? 36t-26t?

I've done it and didn't even replace or move the front derailleur down at 
all, which gives a gap that does look a little weird. I did cut off the 
teeth of a 49t larger outer ring to act as a guard, and eventually replaced 
the 36t with a 39t for a bit more range. I thought the 36t-11t combo a bit 
limiting.

I have a unused "Silver" 170mm crank w 35t, 24t if you are interested, at 
slightly less than Riv pricing. I have other chain rings available and we'd 
have to figure out a solution to the outer ring.

-Dave J in VA

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 10:18:19 AM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> So I posted a thread looking for a crankset because I didn't want to spend 
> a ton and didn't feel like piecing one together. The New Albion wide/low 
> has different gearing than the old Sugino one and what I really would 
> prefer is a low/low gearing but at the Sugino price.  Then it occurred to 
> me that the triple minus the large ring is pretty much a low/low and you 
> can grab those pretty cheap. And Sugino quality (while not as great as 
> Silver I am sure) is pretty high.  Would there be any hangups with getting 
> an XD triple and removing that large ring?  Anything that I am not thinking 
> of? 
>

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Re: [RBW] Film cameras on bike rides?

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Phillip:

I’ll answer in more detail when I’m back at my computer, but here are some 
bullets points:

1) I would  urge caution carrying your Leica in the bike. Leica are rugged, but 
your iii is probably 50 or so years old, and the internal workings of the 
rangefinder will be its Achilles heel. I dropped a Leica M4 from a few inches, 
and ended up with a $175 repair when the old glue inside gave way. It can be 
very easy to break something or just knock it put off alignment, all of which 
is expensive to fix. (Note: I found a great Leica repairman ifyou need one.)

2) As far as straps—I have one that let’s you carry the camera on your back and 
then swing it around to the front to take a photo. Made by a cyclist. I’ll find 
a link. I don’t use mine enough, and I’ll be happy to sell it to you at a great 
price. 

–Eric N


> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:39 PM, Philip Williamson  
> wrote:
> 
> What’s the best way to carry a valuable/sentimental/fragile film camera on 
> mixed terrain bike rides? 
> 
> I have a Leica iii(d) I inherited and refurbished that I very much like to 
> shoot. When I’m walking around, the best setup seems to be running both ends 
> of the metal snake strap to the right lug, and tucking the camera into my 
> jacket’s zippered outside breast pocket. I can imagine getting an old-style 
> jersey with a kangaroo boob pocket, but I don’t have one now. 
> 
> I’ve seen sliding harness “systems” in my flickr days, but I was too poor to 
> consider them then. If there’s a quick-draw strap that keeps the camera close 
> to the body and stable, I would consider it now. If the same thing can be 
> rigged up for cheap, I’m interested in that, too. I’m happy to basket or 
> frame-bag carry, too, but it seems/feels like my body would damp road shock 
> better. 
> 
> I was super-impressed with a Rivster’s basket net rig to transport a heavy 
> Mamiya (?) safely offroad, since I have a C3 and a small Graflex. This 
> question is more for carrying the little Leica, though. 
> 
> I don’t imagine there’s a better place to ask this question. 
> 
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
> 
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[RBW] Re: Film cameras on bike rides?

[John A. Bennett]

Unfortunately, just sold the very last one a week or so ago. Thanks for 
buying one when you did!

May reorder at some point soon.if there is interest. 

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 7:56:25 AM UTC-7, velomann wrote:
>
> http://www.rivelopdx.com/shop/bag-pedal-bikes-shoot-film-camera-bag
> I use this. I think John still has a couple left at Rivelo.

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[RBW] Re: Film cameras on bike rides?

[John A. Bennett]

This has always worked for me:

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/53781a51e4b0f28da14f7222/t/55754589e4b0620d1b3fdf3c/1433748876104/

On Friday, June 28, 2019 at 7:39:56 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> What’s the best way to carry a valuable/sentimental/fragile film camera on 
> mixed terrain bike rides? 
>
> I have a Leica iii(d) I inherited and refurbished that I very much like to 
> shoot. When I’m walking around, the best setup seems to be running both 
> ends of the metal snake strap to the right lug, and tucking the camera into 
> my jacket’s zippered outside breast pocket. I can imagine getting an 
> old-style jersey with a kangaroo boob pocket, but I don’t have one now. 
>
> I’ve seen sliding harness “systems” in my flickr days, but I was too poor 
> to consider them then. If there’s a quick-draw strap that keeps the camera 
> close to the body and stable, I would consider it now. If the same thing 
> can be rigged up for cheap, I’m interested in that, too. I’m happy to 
> basket or frame-bag carry, too, but it seems/feels like my body would damp 
> road shock better. 
>
> I was super-impressed with a Rivster’s basket net rig to transport a heavy 
> Mamiya (?) safely offroad, since I have a C3 and a small Graflex. This 
> question is more for carrying the little Leica, though. 
>
> I don’t imagine there’s a better place to ask this question. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Sean Kline]

Hi Erik, lime Chris’ question, do you know how much wheel cm you gained going 
to 650b? What what was your wheel diameter before and after?

Thanks,
Sean

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[RBW] Film cameras on bike rides?

[velomann]

http://www.rivelopdx.com/shop/bag-pedal-bikes-shoot-film-camera-bag
I use this. I think John still has a couple left at Rivelo.

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[chris feczko]

Hey Erik,

You were able to make this happen without any mods to the frame? No chain stay 
dimpling? Looks great!

- chris

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[RBW] Converting a triple to a low/low

[Johnny Alien]

So I posted a thread looking for a crankset because I didn't want to spend 
a ton and didn't feel like piecing one together. The New Albion wide/low 
has different gearing than the old Sugino one and what I really would 
prefer is a low/low gearing but at the Sugino price.  Then it occurred to 
me that the triple minus the large ring is pretty much a low/low and you 
can grab those pretty cheap. And Sugino quality (while not as great as 
Silver I am sure) is pretty high.  Would there be any hangups with getting 
an XD triple and removing that large ring?  Anything that I am not thinking 
of? 

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[RBW] WTB: Tall Person Quickbeam

[Tim Bantham]

In search of a Quickbeam either complete or frameset. Thinking a 64 or 66 
cm may work for me. Let me know if you have one that you'd be willing to 
move on.  

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Re: [RBW] Film cameras on bike rides?

[David Bivins]

I would hardly call a Leica III fragile. It’s a brick of brass that could 
double as a weapon at the end of a long strap. I carry my camera sling style, 
with the strap over one shoulder and under the other armpit. Most of my cameras 
are attached with conventional lugs, with the exception of some Fujifilm medium 
format types. 
For me the key is having a strap that will hold the camera close enough to my 
body to not swing wildly, but not so tight that I look like I’m fighting myself 
when I try to get it close to my face to take a photo. I have two Leica III 
bodies, and they both have leather straps with split rings for the lugs. 

> On Jun 28, 2019, at 10:39 PM, Philip Williamson  
> wrote:
> 
> What’s the best way to carry a valuable/sentimental/fragile film camera on 
> mixed terrain bike rides? 
> 
> I have a Leica iii(d) I inherited and refurbished that I very much like to 
> shoot. When I’m walking around, the best setup seems to be running both ends 
> of the metal snake strap to the right lug, and tucking the camera into my 
> jacket’s zippered outside breast pocket. I can imagine getting an old-style 
> jersey with a kangaroo boob pocket, but I don’t have one now. 
> 
> I’ve seen sliding harness “systems” in my flickr days, but I was too poor to 
> consider them then. If there’s a quick-draw strap that keeps the camera close 
> to the body and stable, I would consider it now. If the same thing can be 
> rigged up for cheap, I’m interested in that, too. I’m happy to basket or 
> frame-bag carry, too, but it seems/feels like my body would damp road shock 
> better. 
> 
> I was super-impressed with a Rivster’s basket net rig to transport a heavy 
> Mamiya (?) safely offroad, since I have a C3 and a small Graflex. This 
> question is more for carrying the little Leica, though. 
> 
> I don’t imagine there’s a better place to ask this question. 
> 
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
> 
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[RBW] Re: Good Problem to have? FS/FT

[Lester Lammers]

I agree with Bill and Eamon. I must say that I really enjoy my 53 MIT 
Atlantis. The ride with the LWB is wonderful.

On Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 12:42:49 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> The answer is obvious.  Keep them both.  I think they are significantly 
> different from each other, even though they are the same color and have the 
> same model name.  Enjoy the old Atlantis.  Hold onto the new one and build 
> it up when you feel like it.  My recommendation would be to build the two 
> bikes differently from each other.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 8:34:14 AM UTC-7, Anthony Childs wrote:
>>
>> I've wanted an atlantis but,  now I have two!  
>>
>> I bought a new MIT Atlantis 53cm frame. soon after I came across a 56cm 
>> waterford complete at a good price, so I bought it... I don't really need 
>> an extra frame and I'm not sure I can return it, nor do I want to 
>> (understanding the struggle of a small business) 
>>
>> Do I sale the new frame (in box)?
>>
>> OR! I would be willing to trade for a different Riv. Cheviot would be a 
>> great different style or a complete clem L
>>
>>  Another option would be to build the MIT Atlantis and sale it complete??
>>
>> What do we think?
>>   
>>
>

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