Re: [RBW] Re: Fitting the Hunqapillar for touring

[Jay Lonner]

Hi John,Looks like you’ve taken your Hunq to some pretty spectacular locales, and I’m hoping you’ll share your insights about hitting that Goldilocks level of preparedness — not packing too much, not packing too little, but being just right. I have fairly extensive backpacking experience (mostly dating before the Ray Jardine/ultralight movement) and still retain a “10 essentials” mindset (extra food, extra water, extra layers, etc). All those “extras” add up though, and it’s true that I would frequently take along stuff that I never ended up needing. But of course the whole point of preparedness is to plan for contingencies, especially when you’re in a remote location and help is far away.So in terms of bringing less than you think you need, what is your personal list of must-haves for self-supported backcountry touring? And where do you think most people go overboard?Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Feb 28, 2023, at 5:14 PM, John Rinker  wrote:Hey Johnny,Sounds like a fine trip you've got planned, and that you have been invited by your father-in-law seems a very good sign of your marriage, indeed. Your Hunq set-up seems off to a great start with the front rack and basket. I'd go to a Wald 139 as I find this the one indispensable part of my touring rig. I also really love my medium Sackville trunk. Not too sure how it compares to the Swift bag you mention, but I've found that it provides plenty of room for the essentials. For lighter touring, I use the basket and Sackville combo. For a little more luxury (bigger kitchen and more food) I run two panniers on a front low-rider which it seems you have.  Here's a photo of my set-up fully loaded: And here's the streamlined version: The one piece of touring wisdom that I'm sure many will share with you is: You need far less than you think you do.Hope this helps.Cheers, JohnOn Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 4:44:35 PM UTC-8 johnny@gmail.com wrote:Hey all, My father in-law is taking me with him on a mini bike tour down the Oregon coast this summer. It'll be between 10-14 days as we make our way down the coast from Astoria to someplace farther south :)  I'd like to upgrade some of the touring stuff because what I have is either super nice, or very basic and cheap. I did a dirt tour summer before last, a two night three day ride around a bunch of lakes near Mt Hood. It was rad. My bike is set up with some crummy $10 Craigslist panniers on a Nitto campee front rack with a Wald 135 basket. On the back I have a super cheap aluminum rack I strapped my sleeping bag to. Lastly, I have a bedrockbags frame bag, which is gorgeous. So... it's upgrade time. What I'm thinking is upgrading the rear rack and bag and sticking with the front cheap panniers. Thoughts on that approach? Or should I just get a nice front pannier set and call it a day? The bike felt overly front loaded the first go round so I was thinking of putting more weight in the back. Here are the options I've been toying with in my head:1) a rear rack and something like a Swift Zeitgeist "trunk" bagPros: Looks cool, probably more usable for the times i'm not touring, slightly less expensive option overallCons: 12L capacity may or may not be enough?2) a bigger rack and rear panniers Pros: 20L+ capacity, likely a more robust setup, with the front i'd have tons of spaceCons: more expensive and likely I won't keep a rear rack on the bike all the time because i have a front rack and basket so it may not be as useful overallI have not done any real touring before so seeking the wisdom and expertise of my Riv comrades. Thoughts and suggestions? Here's a pic from the dirt tour around Hood because all threads without pictures are flawed :) Thank you and here's to summer plans with long slow rides for days and days. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Fitting the Hunqapillar for touring

[Michael Baquerizo]

an aside, i love that salmon hunqapillar. such a good color on such a good 
bike.

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 9:14:00 PM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> I’m not quite sure why the Zeitgeist bags are as ubiquitous as they are… 
> because they’re actually rather small in my opinion. Fine as a daily 
> saddlebag, but for bikepacking or multi-day touring, it’s just not a lot of 
> volume.
>
> If it were me, I’d start by upgrading the sleeping bag to something that 
> would compress down to a much smaller size, and then go with something like 
> a Carradice Camper or Nelson longflap saddlebag. They’re nicely made bags 
> that look good on Rivs, and quite affordable compared to some of the higher 
> end saddlebag options like BXB, or Fab’s Chest.
>
> Great looking Hunq, by the way!
>
> On Feb 28, 2023, at 8:37 PM, DavidP  wrote:
>
> What a great opportunity to spend time with your father-in-law!
>
>
> The question that came to mind on seeing the photos of the current setup 
> was where the sleeping bag would fit in with the new setup. I wouldn't want 
> it taking up space inside either the trunk/saddle bag or front paniers. 
>
> John's photos answered that question. 
>
> For not much more money than the Zeitgeist but a lot more space, I'd add a 
> Sackville trunk (whichever model best matches the distance between your 
> saddle and rear rack) as John's setup shows.
>
> -Dave
>
> On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 8:18:37 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Sadly, I have never done any bicycle touring with racks and bags. 
>> However, my suggestions would be go with Tubus racks: 
>> https://www.tubus.com/en/products/
>> or with Old Man Mountain: https://oldmanmountain.com/
>> paired with Arkel panniers: https://arkel.ca/
>>
>> A long time ago, I was planning a bike tour with my daughter back in 
>> 2011. However, she injured her knee and in turn we had to cancel the trip.  
>> I bought one set of  used Old Man Mountain racks and two used sets of Arkel 
>> f/r panniers. The Arkel GT-52 for the rear and the Arkel GT-18 for the 
>> front. I sold my f/r pair on eBay along time ago, However, I still have the 
>> Old Man Mountain f/r racks and my daughter's pair of GT-52 panniers. I 
>> washed them the other day. They look brand new. 
>>
>> I can proclaim that the Arkel panniers are very well made with lots of 
>> compartments with heavy duty zippers and waterproof covers. 
>>
>> Unfortunately, I am unable to share any experience or knowledge of how my 
>> Old Man Mountain racks hold up under load conditions. 
>>
>> Dreaming of one day bike camping with my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike,
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA. 
>>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Wool Bob-ish Clothes - Ibex, Icebreaker, Pendleton, Smartwool

[Michael Ullmer]

Ibex Merino is all that remains:

Ibex 100% 17.5 Merino SS Black Polo Medium - $30
--No holes or stains, excellent shape

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 2:55:24 PM UTC-6 Michael Ullmer wrote:

> An update on what remains:
>
> 1) Smartwool Merino SS Red Polo Medium- $25
> --No holes or stains, excellent shape.
>
> 2) Ibex Merino SS Black Polo Medium - $30
> --No holes or stains, excellent shape
>
> 5) Icebreaker Lodge LS Flannel Shirt Medium - $35
> --Excellent shape, no holes or staining.
>
> On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 12:30:19 PM UTC-6 Michael Ullmer wrote:
>
>> Cross post from the i-bob list:
>>
>> The annual clearout of the closet is here:
>>
>> 1) Smartwool Merino SS Red Polo Medium- $25
>> --No holes or stains, excellent shape.
>>
>> 2) Ibex Merino SS Black Polo Medium - $30
>> --No holes or stains, excellent shape
>>
>> 3) Icebreaker Merino SS Snap Button Up Small - $15
>> --Two small holes on front bottom left and under right pit and some 
>> staining on the collar. Also some fraying on the right sleeve seam. All 
>> snaps and zips work great. This fits like a small and was an excellent 
>> riding shirt with the pit vents and snaps. Sorry to see this go, but it no 
>> longer fits me.
>>
>> 4) Pendleton Decade Shirt LS Medium - $20
>> --This is a much softer wool material than typical Pendletons. Excellent 
>> shape, no holes or stains.
>>
>> 5) Icebreaker Lodge LS Flannel Shirt Medium - $35
>> --Excellent shape, no holes or staining.
>>
>> Prices are net to me and don't include shipping. I'll plan on shipping 
>> via Pirateship.
>>
>> Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2PYkCzroTi12V4UL6
>>
>> PM off-list
>>
>> Mike in Minneapolis
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hand-Wringing: Kickstand Edition

[Tom Goodmann]

RBW List to the rescue! So nice! 

Tom in Miami

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 9:45:48 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Leah,
>
> I am sorry to hear of your misgivings over your bicycle parts. 
>
> If you are still not happy with your new kickstand, I would be more than 
> happy to send you my single kickstand that came stock with my Clem Smith 
> Jr. "L" bike for no cost to you. I have not intentions of using it. I have 
> a double footed-Pletscher kickstand.
>
> I will take a picture(s) of it and send them to you, if are interested.
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 6:31:56 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Oh, here is the new Rivendell rear rack, for those of you wondering how 
>> it would mount. It clears the fender light, which is the problem I had with 
>> the Nitto medium Big Back Rack.
>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>
>> On Feb 28, 2023, at 9:28 PM, Leah Peterson  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> New stand:
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Feb 28, 2023, at 9:26 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> You’ll forgive me for this unusual thread, I know you will. You will be 
>> compassionate to your RivSister who is yearning for spring after a Michigan 
>> winter, and if she can’t ride the bikes she will talk about the bikes. 
>>
>> I love my Rivendells. I used to hate changing anything about them - if I 
>> wore something out like brake pads or tires - I would sometimes weep about 
>> it in the parking lot of the bike shop. “It will never be the SAME!” I’d 
>> think. These poor coping skills came after wearing my Betty Foy tires to 
>> threads. The mechanic told me he’d have to get me something else for tires 
>> because he didn’t have that kind. Then he called me and told my I’d 
>> actually need a whole new WHEEL because my rim was cracked. He explained he 
>> would have to build one. After a week in that shop, my Betty was returned 
>> to me. I got a flat on my first ride. I went howling back to the shop - it 
>> was something about rim tape and it was an easy fix. But I had developed a 
>> distrust and a distaste for messing with essentials on my bikes. 
>>
>> I’ve mostly gotten over this. Especially now that I know about upgrades 
>> and how happy they can make you. But some things just shouldn’t need to be 
>> upgraded. Some things are so familiar that when they go missing or get 
>> replaced it’s intolerable.
>>
>> Kickstands.
>>
>> My Greenfield kickstand on the raspberry Platy inexplicably snapped in 
>> the back of my van en route to the Philly Bike Expo. A local shop replaced 
>> that kickstand with the same model (joy and rapture!) but cut it a hair too 
>> short. Was it going to tip over? No. BUT IT WASN’T THE SAME, I wailed in my 
>> head. I didn’t like the new lean it gave the bike. I wanted things the way 
>> they used to be. I decided I would spring for yet another kickstand and 
>> hope it would be right.
>>
>> I took my Platy to my local shop and explained about the kickstand. I 
>> also brought them one of Rivendell’s new shiny rear racks to be fit to my 
>> bike. I may take that bike on a RivSister Tour this summer and needed a 
>> heavy-duty rack (not the saddlebag support I have presently). The mechanic 
>> thought he knew what I wanted and ordered me a new kickstand that he 
>> thought would be EVEN BETTER. He said this in email, so I did not get a 
>> vote. I picked up the bike today. The rear rack was expertly fitted. The 
>> kickstand…I know he meant well, but…
>>
>> But it wasn’t the SAME. 
>>
>> It’s this foreign thing on my bike. Chunky and stout. It’s a Portland 
>> Design Works stand; this one, I think: 
>> https://ridepdw.com/products/power-stance-kickstand
>>
>> I haven’t gotten used to it. It’s been 4 hours. I don’t know if I can get 
>> used to it. This is my club ride bike and that kickstand is…a lot. The rack 
>> will get switched back - I just wanted the new one ready for plug and play 
>> for a summer tour. But what should I do about that kickstand? 
>>
>> I could buy the one that is on my mermaid Platy. I think I want to be 
>> done with the kickstands that you have to cut to size. I’m liking that this 
>> one is adjustable. 
>>
>> Is it as horrible as I think? I think it’s worse in real life than the 
>> photos show. Also, it’s dark and I had to alter these photos a lot so you 
>> could see well enough. Colors will be distorted. Anyway, I’m sending pics 
>> in the following post…
>>
>> Who will help their RivSister? Who can understand her peculiar brand of 
>> angst? Who has words of wisdom, or even constructive criticism? Who else is 
>> nutty about small things that barely matter? Who has been crying in bike 
>> shop parking lots and hand-wringing in the garage, staring at these 
>> foreign, new, transplanted parts?
>>
>> Pics forthcoming…
>> Leah
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>> To 

Re: [RBW] Hand-Wringing: Kickstand Edition

[Kim Hetzel]

Hi Leah,

I am sorry to hear of your misgivings over your bicycle parts. 

If you are still not happy with your new kickstand, I would be more than 
happy to send you my single kickstand that came stock with my Clem Smith 
Jr. "L" bike for no cost to you. I have not intentions of using it. I have 
a double footed-Pletscher kickstand.

I will take a picture(s) of it and send them to you, if are interested.

Kim Hetzel
Yelm, WA. 

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 6:31:56 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> Oh, here is the new Rivendell rear rack, for those of you wondering how it 
> would mount. It clears the fender light, which is the problem I had with 
> the Nitto medium Big Back Rack.
> [image: image0.jpeg]
>
> On Feb 28, 2023, at 9:28 PM, Leah Peterson  wrote:
>
> 
> New stand:
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 28, 2023, at 9:26 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!  
> wrote:
>
> You’ll forgive me for this unusual thread, I know you will. You will be 
> compassionate to your RivSister who is yearning for spring after a Michigan 
> winter, and if she can’t ride the bikes she will talk about the bikes. 
>
> I love my Rivendells. I used to hate changing anything about them - if I 
> wore something out like brake pads or tires - I would sometimes weep about 
> it in the parking lot of the bike shop. “It will never be the SAME!” I’d 
> think. These poor coping skills came after wearing my Betty Foy tires to 
> threads. The mechanic told me he’d have to get me something else for tires 
> because he didn’t have that kind. Then he called me and told my I’d 
> actually need a whole new WHEEL because my rim was cracked. He explained he 
> would have to build one. After a week in that shop, my Betty was returned 
> to me. I got a flat on my first ride. I went howling back to the shop - it 
> was something about rim tape and it was an easy fix. But I had developed a 
> distrust and a distaste for messing with essentials on my bikes. 
>
> I’ve mostly gotten over this. Especially now that I know about upgrades 
> and how happy they can make you. But some things just shouldn’t need to be 
> upgraded. Some things are so familiar that when they go missing or get 
> replaced it’s intolerable.
>
> Kickstands.
>
> My Greenfield kickstand on the raspberry Platy inexplicably snapped in the 
> back of my van en route to the Philly Bike Expo. A local shop replaced that 
> kickstand with the same model (joy and rapture!) but cut it a hair too 
> short. Was it going to tip over? No. BUT IT WASN’T THE SAME, I wailed in my 
> head. I didn’t like the new lean it gave the bike. I wanted things the way 
> they used to be. I decided I would spring for yet another kickstand and 
> hope it would be right.
>
> I took my Platy to my local shop and explained about the kickstand. I also 
> brought them one of Rivendell’s new shiny rear racks to be fit to my bike. 
> I may take that bike on a RivSister Tour this summer and needed a 
> heavy-duty rack (not the saddlebag support I have presently). The mechanic 
> thought he knew what I wanted and ordered me a new kickstand that he 
> thought would be EVEN BETTER. He said this in email, so I did not get a 
> vote. I picked up the bike today. The rear rack was expertly fitted. The 
> kickstand…I know he meant well, but…
>
> But it wasn’t the SAME. 
>
> It’s this foreign thing on my bike. Chunky and stout. It’s a Portland 
> Design Works stand; this one, I think: 
> https://ridepdw.com/products/power-stance-kickstand
>
> I haven’t gotten used to it. It’s been 4 hours. I don’t know if I can get 
> used to it. This is my club ride bike and that kickstand is…a lot. The rack 
> will get switched back - I just wanted the new one ready for plug and play 
> for a summer tour. But what should I do about that kickstand? 
>
> I could buy the one that is on my mermaid Platy. I think I want to be done 
> with the kickstands that you have to cut to size. I’m liking that this one 
> is adjustable. 
>
> Is it as horrible as I think? I think it’s worse in real life than the 
> photos show. Also, it’s dark and I had to alter these photos a lot so you 
> could see well enough. Colors will be distorted. Anyway, I’m sending pics 
> in the following post…
>
> Who will help their RivSister? Who can understand her peculiar brand of 
> angst? Who has words of wisdom, or even constructive criticism? Who else is 
> nutty about small things that barely matter? Who has been crying in bike 
> shop parking lots and hand-wringing in the garage, staring at these 
> foreign, new, transplanted parts?
>
> Pics forthcoming…
> Leah
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> 

[RBW] Hand-Wringing: Kickstand Edition

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

You’ll forgive me for this unusual thread, I know you will. You will be 
compassionate to your RivSister who is yearning for spring after a Michigan 
winter, and if she can’t ride the bikes she will talk about the bikes. 

I love my Rivendells. I used to hate changing anything about them - if I 
wore something out like brake pads or tires - I would sometimes weep about 
it in the parking lot of the bike shop. “It will never be the SAME!” I’d 
think. These poor coping skills came after wearing my Betty Foy tires to 
threads. The mechanic told me he’d have to get me something else for tires 
because he didn’t have that kind. Then he called me and told my I’d 
actually need a whole new WHEEL because my rim was cracked. He explained he 
would have to build one. After a week in that shop, my Betty was returned 
to me. I got a flat on my first ride. I went howling back to the shop - it 
was something about rim tape and it was an easy fix. But I had developed a 
distrust and a distaste for messing with essentials on my bikes. 

I’ve mostly gotten over this. Especially now that I know about upgrades and 
how happy they can make you. But some things just shouldn’t need to be 
upgraded. Some things are so familiar that when they go missing or get 
replaced it’s intolerable.

Kickstands.

My Greenfield kickstand on the raspberry Platy inexplicably snapped in the 
back of my van en route to the Philly Bike Expo. A local shop replaced that 
kickstand with the same model (joy and rapture!) but cut it a hair too 
short. Was it going to tip over? No. BUT IT WASN’T THE SAME, I wailed in my 
head. I didn’t like the new lean it gave the bike. I wanted things the way 
they used to be. I decided I would spring for yet another kickstand and 
hope it would be right.

I took my Platy to my local shop and explained about the kickstand. I also 
brought them one of Rivendell’s new shiny rear racks to be fit to my bike. 
I may take that bike on a RivSister Tour this summer and needed a 
heavy-duty rack (not the saddlebag support I have presently). The mechanic 
thought he knew what I wanted and ordered me a new kickstand that he 
thought would be EVEN BETTER. He said this in email, so I did not get a 
vote. I picked up the bike today. The rear rack was expertly fitted. The 
kickstand…I know he meant well, but…

But it wasn’t the SAME. 

It’s this foreign thing on my bike. Chunky and stout. It’s a Portland 
Design Works stand; this one, I 
think: https://ridepdw.com/products/power-stance-kickstand

I haven’t gotten used to it. It’s been 4 hours. I don’t know if I can get 
used to it. This is my club ride bike and that kickstand is…a lot. The rack 
will get switched back - I just wanted the new one ready for plug and play 
for a summer tour. But what should I do about that kickstand? 

I could buy the one that is on my mermaid Platy. I think I want to be done 
with the kickstands that you have to cut to size. I’m liking that this one 
is adjustable. 

Is it as horrible as I think? I think it’s worse in real life than the 
photos show. Also, it’s dark and I had to alter these photos a lot so you 
could see well enough. Colors will be distorted. Anyway, I’m sending pics 
in the following post…

Who will help their RivSister? Who can understand her peculiar brand of 
angst? Who has words of wisdom, or even constructive criticism? Who else is 
nutty about small things that barely matter? Who has been crying in bike 
shop parking lots and hand-wringing in the garage, staring at these 
foreign, new, transplanted parts?

Pics forthcoming…
Leah






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Re: [RBW] Re: Fitting the Hunqapillar for touring

[Brian Turner]

I’m not quite sure why the Zeitgeist bags are as ubiquitous as they are… because they’re actually rather small in my opinion. Fine as a daily saddlebag, but for bikepacking or multi-day touring, it’s just not a lot of volume.If it were me, I’d start by upgrading the sleeping bag to something that would compress down to a much smaller size, and then go with something like a Carradice Camper or Nelson longflap saddlebag. They’re nicely made bags that look good on Rivs, and quite affordable compared to some of the higher end saddlebag options like BXB, or Fab’s Chest.Great looking Hunq, by the way!On Feb 28, 2023, at 8:37 PM, DavidP  wrote:What a great opportunity to spend time with your father-in-law!The question that came to mind on seeing the photos of the current setup was where the sleeping bag would fit in with the new setup. I wouldn't want it taking up space inside either the trunk/saddle bag or front paniers. John's photos answered that question. For not much more money than the Zeitgeist but a lot more space, I'd add a Sackville trunk (whichever model best matches the distance between your saddle and rear rack) as John's setup shows.-DaveOn Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 8:18:37 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:Sadly, I have never done any bicycle touring with racks and bags. However, my suggestions would be go with Tubus racks: https://www.tubus.com/en/products/or with Old Man Mountain: https://oldmanmountain.com/paired with Arkel panniers: https://arkel.ca/A long time ago, I was planning a bike tour with my daughter back in 2011. However, she injured her knee and in turn we had to cancel the trip.  I bought one set of  used Old Man Mountain racks and two used sets of Arkel f/r panniers. The Arkel GT-52 for the rear and the Arkel GT-18 for the front. I sold my f/r pair on eBay along time ago, However, I still have the Old Man Mountain f/r racks and my daughter's pair of GT-52 panniers. I washed them the other day. They look brand new. I can proclaim that the Arkel panniers are very well made with lots of compartments with heavy duty zippers and waterproof covers. Unfortunately, I am unable to share any experience or knowledge of how my Old Man Mountain racks hold up under load conditions. Dreaming of one day bike camping with my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike,Kim HetzelYelm, WA. 



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[RBW] Re: Bombadil and Hunqapillar origins: The definitive thread

[Mitch]

Recently scored a 64cm Bombadil Prototype - currently getting blasted and 
painted @ D ! Reading these Bombadil articles have got me real stoked!
On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 8:56:54 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for the links, Gino. 
>
> Here in 2023 I think we'd all be down for a Bombadil at $1,600 for the 
> frame and fork. 
>
> On Monday, February 20, 2023 at 11:17:41 PM UTC-5 Gino Zahnd wrote:
>
>> In 2008 I rode the Bomba prototype for a few weeks. Here are my photos 
>> from then:
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gzahnd/albums/72157607024143730
>>
>> And my review of it in 2008:
>>
>> https://chicogino.blogspot.com/2008/05/rivendell-bombadil-my-two-week-fling.html
>>
>> On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 8:16:08 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> It seems the Bombadil and Hunqapillar frames are beloved. They're stout, 
>>> beautiful, and sometimes have intricate additional tubes and lugs. While 
>>> I've done a lot of reading about Rivendell I was a bit unclear on the 
>>> origins and intended uses of these frames. 
>>>
>>> I wanted to start a thread where we could share and dump info about 
>>> these bikes along with pictures of builds. 
>>>
>>> Joe and Jim were helpful in laying out a bit of background in another 
>>> thread 
>>> ,
>>>  there's 
>>> some great info there. 
>>>
>>> The original Hunqapillar catalog is up here: 
>>> http://notfine.com/rivendell/Brochures/Rivendell%20Frames%20Hunqapillar.pdf
>>>
>>> The first mention I can find of the Bombadil is in RR 41, sometime in 
>>> 2009. Excerpted pages attached. As a few members might recall I am very 
>>> into raw frames with brass spilling out of the lugs! I know that many 
>>> Bombadil owners have had their frames repainted like Jason Fuller, whose 
>>> absolute stunner shows up here from time to time. By the way, the picture 
>>> below is one of my very favorite Rivendell images. 
>>>
>>> [image: Jason Bombadil green.jpg]
>>>
>>> There's also the butter-banana Bombadil that recently sold on eBay. I 
>>> believe that one was purchased by John Watson of the Radavist (and he's got 
>>> a Hunq) so we might see some nice pics of that bike sometime soon. 
>>>
>>> [image: s-l1600-2.jpg]
>>>
>>> And speaking of, here's John's Hunqapillar, more images and write-up 
>>> here .
>>>
>>> [image: Johns-Rivendell-Hunqapillar-29er-Klunker-76.jpg] 
>>>
>>> Are both of these frame names borrowing from Tolkien? I understand RBW 
>>> had to stop using Tolkien names. 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[Patrick Moore]

Laing: Thanks for this detailed and informing overview; I have read it
through and will read it again slowly, but I think I get it: 90* to brake
arm pivots + as flat as possible at straddle, as little toe-in as you can
get by with to prevent squeal, and make sure that the pads meet the rim
brake tracks squarely. I've already done the last 2, must go back and look
at the first 2. The single rear rack strut to seatstay bridge may limit my
options in the rear. My pads are old Kool Stop salmons, the short, blocky
sort. I did make various shim tools for toe in, must seek those out again.

Thanks again!

On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 3:52 PM lconley  wrote:

> Geometry is all important with cantilevers. I will use Paul models for
> reference. Note that at a certain level, V-brakes are just optimized
> cantilevers, so much so that they have too much braking force that must be
> reduced at the levers. If maximizing braking force is the be-all, end all
> of braking, then why use levers that reduce the braking force? But there is
> something to be said for V-brakes having less tension (and therefore
> stretch) on the brake cable.
>
> 1. You want the straddle cable operating at, or as close as possible to a
> 90 degree angle to a line drawn from the brake arm pivot axis (the post
> brazed/welded to the frame) to the straddle cable connection to the arm.
> This is much easier on a Paul Touring than a Paul Neo-Retro. Motolites are
> basically taking the progression to it's conclusion (Neo-Retro -> Touring
> -> Motolite). Note that when working with Neo-Retros, this generally means
> rotating the arms as far towards the rim as possible, using the fewest,
> narrowest spacers between the pad and arm as possible (and that is allowed
> by your tires). This is where some "experts" get it all wrong, they seem to
> think that the rotation of the arm changes the direct of travel of the pad
> at the rim - i.e. the arm carrying the pad should be straight up, which is
> untrue. The direction of travel of the pad at the rim is fixed by where the
> relative location of the pivot is to the rim-pad interface - only a welder
> can be used to adjust this. The pivot is below and outside the rim -> the
> pad will ALWAYS be traveling in a downward arc relative to the rim. Note
> that because V-brakes use the same pivots as cantilevers, the cheapest POS
> cantilevers that you can find vs. Paul Motolites - on a given bike, the
> pads are traveling in exactly the same arc, this is a function of the frame
> and wheel, not the brakes nor the brake adjustment.
>
> 2. Ideally, you want the straddle cable as close to straight as possible
> where it goes through straddle cable carrier -> the straddle cable as short
> as possible. This is a very unappreciated part of the equation. When you
> apply a perpendicular pressure at the center of a straight cable, you would
> actually get an infinite tension in the cable if it did not stretch. This a
> very handy thing to use in many instances - you can move a car with only a
> rope and this principal. The cosine of 90 degrees is 0. When you divide by
> 0, you get infinity. If you want to prove this to yourself - make a
> straddle cable between the ends of a V-brake and use a straddle cable
> hanger connected to the brake cable cantilever/centerpull style.
>
> 3. There is an interaction between 1 and 2 - as you make the straddle
> cable straighter (#2), you lose the 90 degree angle (#1). On top of that as
> the cables, straddle hanger, and brake arms move, and the cables stretch;
> the geometry changes. With Neo-Retros, getting the arm as close to the rim
> as possible also raises the straddle cable arm interface up, getting the
> arm-cable angle closer to 90 degrees. Note that means having your wheels
> extremely true and minimizing the pad gap and toe-in. As the brake arm
> rotates under application of the brake, this angle improves - gets closer
> to 90 degrees again. As the straddle hanger rises under brake application,
> this also gets the brake arm - straddle cable angle closer to 90 degrees
> and increasing your braking force. But as all of this is going on, the
> straddle cable at the straddle hanger is getting less straight, reducing
> your braking force. With precise measurements of the actual relative
> geometries on your bike, you can calculate all of this, or you can
> experiment with lengthening and shortening the straddle cable.
>
> 4. I think that a far bigger item with braking is the pad interface with
> the rim. Getting the pad centered on the rim, or actually just a little bit
> above centerline of the braking surface is advised (remember that the pad
> is traveling in a downward arc with the pivot below the rim with
> cantilevers - with centerpulls, the pad is traveling in an upward arc). You
> also want the pad flat to the rim (up-down flat when it contacts). If you
> don't want squealing brakes, you must toe them in. The better your pads,
> the more you must toe them in. The more you toe 

[RBW] Re: Fitting the Hunqapillar for touring

[DavidP]

What a great opportunity to spend time with your father-in-law!

The question that came to mind on seeing the photos of the current setup 
was where the sleeping bag would fit in with the new setup. I wouldn't want 
it taking up space inside either the trunk/saddle bag or front paniers. 

John's photos answered that question. 

For not much more money than the Zeitgeist but a lot more space, I'd add a 
Sackville trunk (whichever model best matches the distance between your 
saddle and rear rack) as John's setup shows.

-Dave

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 8:18:37 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Sadly, I have never done any bicycle touring with racks and bags. However, 
> my suggestions would be go with Tubus racks: 
> https://www.tubus.com/en/products/
> or with Old Man Mountain: https://oldmanmountain.com/
> paired with Arkel panniers: https://arkel.ca/
>
> A long time ago, I was planning a bike tour with my daughter back in 2011. 
> However, she injured her knee and in turn we had to cancel the trip.  I 
> bought one set of  used Old Man Mountain racks and two used sets of Arkel 
> f/r panniers. The Arkel GT-52 for the rear and the Arkel GT-18 for the 
> front. I sold my f/r pair on eBay along time ago, However, I still have the 
> Old Man Mountain f/r racks and my daughter's pair of GT-52 panniers. I 
> washed them the other day. They look brand new. 
>
> I can proclaim that the Arkel panniers are very well made with lots of 
> compartments with heavy duty zippers and waterproof covers. 
>
> Unfortunately, I am unable to share any experience or knowledge of how my 
> Old Man Mountain racks hold up under load conditions. 
>
> Dreaming of one day bike camping with my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike,
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Fitting the Hunqapillar for touring

[Kim Hetzel]

Sadly, I have never done any bicycle touring with racks and bags. However, 
my suggestions would be go with Tubus racks: 
https://www.tubus.com/en/products/
or with Old Man Mountain: https://oldmanmountain.com/
paired with Arkel panniers: https://arkel.ca/

A long time ago, I was planning a bike tour with my daughter back in 2011. 
However, she injured her knee and in turn we had to cancel the trip.  I 
bought one set of  used Old Man Mountain racks and two used sets of Arkel 
f/r panniers. The Arkel GT-52 for the rear and the Arkel GT-18 for the 
front. I sold my f/r pair on eBay along time ago, However, I still have the 
Old Man Mountain f/r racks and my daughter's pair of GT-52 panniers. I 
washed them the other day. They look brand new. 

I can proclaim that the Arkel panniers are very well made with lots of 
compartments with heavy duty zippers and waterproof covers. 

Unfortunately, I am unable to share any experience or knowledge of how my 
Old Man Mountain racks hold up under load conditions. 

Dreaming of one day bike camping with my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike,

Kim Hetzel
Yelm, WA. 

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[RBW] FS: HUBBUHUBBUH Med F/F/H

[clayt...@gmail.com]

Hi All,

Hope you are doing well.
Have a HUBBUHUBBUH Med F/F/H for sale.
Also, have all the parts to make it a bike if of interest (silver cranks, 
Riv wheels, etc.)
Local pickup in Healdsburg, CA or I can deliver in the Bay Area.
It is in mint condition. Orange color 
Price: $2000, but if you take some parts we can work out a deal.
PM for pics and any details you may wish to know about.

Thanks!
Clayton

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

Geometry is all important with cantilevers. I will use Paul models for 
reference. Note that at a certain level, V-brakes are just optimized 
cantilevers, so much so that they have too much braking force that must be 
reduced at the levers. If maximizing braking force is the be-all, end all 
of braking, then why use levers that reduce the braking force? But there is 
something to be said for V-brakes having less tension (and therefore 
stretch) on the brake cable.

1. You want the straddle cable operating at, or as close as possible to a 
90 degree angle to a line drawn from the brake arm pivot axis (the post 
brazed/welded to the frame) to the straddle cable connection to the arm. 
This is much easier on a Paul Touring than a Paul Neo-Retro. Motolites are 
basically taking the progression to it's conclusion (Neo-Retro -> Touring 
-> Motolite). Note that when working with Neo-Retros, this generally means 
rotating the arms as far towards the rim as possible, using the fewest, 
narrowest spacers between the pad and arm as possible (and that is allowed 
by your tires). This is where some "experts" get it all wrong, they seem to 
think that the rotation of the arm changes the direct of travel of the pad 
at the rim - i.e. the arm carrying the pad should be straight up, which is 
untrue. The direction of travel of the pad at the rim is fixed by where the 
relative location of the pivot is to the rim-pad interface - only a welder 
can be used to adjust this. The pivot is below and outside the rim -> the 
pad will ALWAYS be traveling in a downward arc relative to the rim. Note 
that because V-brakes use the same pivots as cantilevers, the cheapest POS 
cantilevers that you can find vs. Paul Motolites - on a given bike, the 
pads are traveling in exactly the same arc, this is a function of the frame 
and wheel, not the brakes nor the brake adjustment.

2. Ideally, you want the straddle cable as close to straight as possible 
where it goes through straddle cable carrier -> the straddle cable as short 
as possible. This is a very unappreciated part of the equation. When you 
apply a perpendicular pressure at the center of a straight cable, you would 
actually get an infinite tension in the cable if it did not stretch. This a 
very handy thing to use in many instances - you can move a car with only a 
rope and this principal. The cosine of 90 degrees is 0. When you divide by 
0, you get infinity. If you want to prove this to yourself - make a 
straddle cable between the ends of a V-brake and use a straddle cable 
hanger connected to the brake cable cantilever/centerpull style.

3. There is an interaction between 1 and 2 - as you make the straddle cable 
straighter (#2), you lose the 90 degree angle (#1). On top of that as the 
cables, straddle hanger, and brake arms move, and the cables stretch; the 
geometry changes. With Neo-Retros, getting the arm as close to the rim as 
possible also raises the straddle cable arm interface up, getting the 
arm-cable angle closer to 90 degrees. Note that means having your wheels 
extremely true and minimizing the pad gap and toe-in. As the brake arm 
rotates under application of the brake, this angle improves - gets closer 
to 90 degrees again. As the straddle hanger rises under brake application, 
this also gets the brake arm - straddle cable angle closer to 90 degrees 
and increasing your braking force. But as all of this is going on, the 
straddle cable at the straddle hanger is getting less straight, reducing 
your braking force. With precise measurements of the actual relative 
geometries on your bike, you can calculate all of this, or you can 
experiment with lengthening and shortening the straddle cable.

4. I think that a far bigger item with braking is the pad interface with 
the rim. Getting the pad centered on the rim, or actually just a little bit 
above centerline of the braking surface is advised (remember that the pad 
is traveling in a downward arc with the pivot below the rim with 
cantilevers - with centerpulls, the pad is traveling in an upward arc). You 
also want the pad flat to the rim (up-down flat when it contacts). If you 
don't want squealing brakes, you must toe them in. The better your pads, 
the more you must toe them in. The more you toe your pads in, the worse 
your braking is because less of your pad is is touching the rim. I think 
the long pads in fashion at the moment make this worse. I prefer shorter 
pads with less toe-in. I have not experimented with cutting/filing/grinding 
a bevel on the leading edge of the brake pads, yet, but I think that hold 
promise.

I spend a lot more time adjusting brake pads than anything else in the 
braking system (that goes for discs also). The location of the brakes makes 
it hard to observe the pad-rim interface which is where everything 
important happens.

I use bent pieces of old credit and business cards of different thicknesses 
at the leading edge of the pads to set toe-in (this does not apply to the 

Re: [RBW] Clem for All Surfaces

[DavidP]

I find mixed surface rides to be so satisfying that almost all of my bikes 
end up being setup for them to one degree or another. The majority of Riv 
models are capable of them too. I built my Platypus with these types of 
rides in mind - with 55mm front and 50mm rear tires and wide Tosco bars. 
Looking forward to seeing more photos of Clems on dirt in this thread.

-Dave

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 4:33:28 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> It's by no means a Clem, nor is it even a Rivendell, tho' a Rivendell 
> custom was its model, but this does very well on firm crusher fine acequia 
> Conservancy District roads and on impromptu unmaintained dirt shortcuts 
> between paved sections. 
>
> Rene Herse Extralight Naches Pass 559X42 cm at ~35/30 or 35/40 depending 
> on load.
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 12:32 PM Doug H.  wrote:
>
>> I rode my Clem for a mile or so on single-track this weekend and I have 
>> no complaints. Even with my narrow tires (Grand Bois Hetre 42 mm) I had 
>> good results. If I were to intend on a longer ride I would install wider 
>> tires and lower the pressure but I was doing mostly a road ride and the 
>> single-track was an unplanned excursion. It is nice to be on a bike that 
>> can handle most surfaces. The same ride included asphalt, gravel and dirt! 
>> Anyone else do off-road riding on a Clem?
>> Doug
>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/405ac496-a436-43b5-a6d4-af92d8a6099cn%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[Patrick Moore]

1. Cantilevers too work better with tires no more than about 60 +/- mm
wide; getting a 3" knobby between the canti bosses (unused; the Monocog
29er has disc brakes and is set up for both) is a hassle, even when they
are soft at 13-15 psi.

2. While I can get decent (my definition may not be yours) braking from
good cantilevers, at least I personally have found it much harder to get
"powerful" -- = strong retardation with moderate hand pressure -- braking
with cantis than with V brakes. I do like other things -- adjustability,
modulation, looks -- better about cantis than Vs.

I recall the miserable power from Mafac cantis, both single-bike
shorter-arm version and longer-arm tandem version, on my Herse, pulled by
Mafac levers. I daresay I could have shortened the straddle cables, but
sold the bike before I got around to doing so (sold, not because of the
brakes).

Laing: How do you get strong cantilever braking, particularly with drop bar
levers? I guess that one preliminary factor is to match the pull of your
lever to the needs of the cantilever; my Dura Ace 7410-era drop levers
probably don't have as much MA as my Paul Neo Retros and Touring cantis
need for best operation, but I love the shape of those levers.

I'd be interested in others' *apercus *about this.



On Tuesday, 28 February 2023 at 05:29:32 UTC-8 lconley wrote:
> Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not
to play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't
really
> see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider ugly
an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the fender
> clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get their
cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.

Laing

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[RBW] Re: FS: Wool Bob-ish Clothes - Ibex, Icebreaker, Pendleton, Smartwool

[Michael Ullmer]

An update on what remains:

1) Smartwool Merino SS Red Polo Medium- $25
--No holes or stains, excellent shape.

2) Ibex Merino SS Black Polo Medium - $30
--No holes or stains, excellent shape

5) Icebreaker Lodge LS Flannel Shirt Medium - $35
--Excellent shape, no holes or staining.

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 12:30:19 PM UTC-6 Michael Ullmer wrote:

> Cross post from the i-bob list:
>
> The annual clearout of the closet is here:
>
> 1) Smartwool Merino SS Red Polo Medium- $25
> --No holes or stains, excellent shape.
>
> 2) Ibex Merino SS Black Polo Medium - $30
> --No holes or stains, excellent shape
>
> 3) Icebreaker Merino SS Snap Button Up Small - $15
> --Two small holes on front bottom left and under right pit and some 
> staining on the collar. Also some fraying on the right sleeve seam. All 
> snaps and zips work great. This fits like a small and was an excellent 
> riding shirt with the pit vents and snaps. Sorry to see this go, but it no 
> longer fits me.
>
> 4) Pendleton Decade Shirt LS Medium - $20
> --This is a much softer wool material than typical Pendletons. Excellent 
> shape, no holes or stains.
>
> 5) Icebreaker Lodge LS Flannel Shirt Medium - $35
> --Excellent shape, no holes or staining.
>
> Prices are net to me and don't include shipping. I'll plan on shipping via 
> Pirateship.
>
> Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2PYkCzroTi12V4UL6
>
> PM off-list
>
> Mike in Minneapolis
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[Mackenzy Albright]

I was able to fit Avid SL V brakes with Honjo Flat 65's and 2.1 tires on my 
Clem Smith. The Flat 65's really give you a lot of height adjustability. 
They work really really well. 

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 11:45:39 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:

> I might just be really, really bad at setting up V-brakes.
>
> Laing
> What is hilly terrain?
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 12:50:28 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> I need to get Laing to set up my cantis for me :)  I have found V's to 
>> have significantly more power and tend to save my hands on hillier terrain 
>> as a result.  I run Motolites on my Bombadil (and I have the canti bridge 
>> just hanging there.. doesn't look too weird though) and while they do 
>> become a clearance limitation when you're trying to fit larger fenders, 
>> they'll clear anything that fits the Bombadil.  I wouldn't go more than 2.4 
>> or 2.5 with V's although I see Riv and Crust promoting larger; and biggest 
>> fender combo I would try is a Flat 65 with 2.1 or 2.2. 
>>
>> I will say, after running a couple sets of Motolites and most recently 
>> setting up and riding a pair of Avid V brakes ... the Avids work just as 
>> well and are even easier to set up. They just lack fanciness. 
>>
>> Jason 
>>
>> On Tuesday, 28 February 2023 at 05:29:32 UTC-8 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> The stem is the Nitto DirtDrop 100mm.
>>> I went with the widest 660mm Towel Racks.
>>>
>>> Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not 
>>> to play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't 
>>> really see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider 
>>> ugly an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the 
>>> fender clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get 
>>> their cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 10:53:01 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>>
 Something else I have now started to realize is that cantilevers are 
 more likely to rub against a handlebar bag. Are V-Brakes preferred for 
 this 
 reason?

 Laing, what stem are you using with the towel racks on the bombadil? 
 Also, how wide did you go?

 I'm reconsidering my Riv Bullmoose choice and wondering whether towel 
 racks (660) or a spank flare 25 bar is a better way to go. 

 I plan on running a BXB goldback bag in the front

 Thoughts?

 Max

 On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 2:47:11 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> I use only cantilevers and basically will always ! Good ol' smooth 
> post cantilevers that clear the frame as opened and open all the way. No 
> silly overly long and offset pads that add nothing to the braking 
> performance. I take a certain delight(albeit comical and always good for 
> a 
> laugh in just thinking it), in denigrating v-brakes and certain 
> cantilever 
> designs, including making/selling/defending frames without rear cable 
> stop 
> bridges. Call it what you will, as so have I. ((( laughing )))  
> Nevertheless, it stands. I could also speak about how "the industry" is 
> their own worst enemy, in fact, their only enemy and the customer but a 
> witness. 
>
> I remember not long ago before the Clem Riv couldn't give a v-brake 
> away. Then with disc brakes becoming the thing, and dwindling proper 
> canti 
> manufacture and design , it didn't leave them much choice as the frame 
> was 
> a sales hit. It's like drinking a brand of beer you really don't like, 
> but 
> because the wife loves it, and you love the wife's company, you swallow 
> your taste buds,one   bitter   chugatatime.   "Ain't this 
> beer great ?   said with crooked broken smile and whose eyes betold 
> another 
> story. 
>
> What's life without a couple of good ol' stories ?   teeheehee . 
>
>
>
> So sure Max, Anything but a cantilever on your Bombadil would leave 
> you without any brake at all :-) 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

I might just be really, really bad at setting up V-brakes.

Laing
What is hilly terrain?
Delray Beach FL

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 12:50:28 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> I need to get Laing to set up my cantis for me :)  I have found V's to 
> have significantly more power and tend to save my hands on hillier terrain 
> as a result.  I run Motolites on my Bombadil (and I have the canti bridge 
> just hanging there.. doesn't look too weird though) and while they do 
> become a clearance limitation when you're trying to fit larger fenders, 
> they'll clear anything that fits the Bombadil.  I wouldn't go more than 2.4 
> or 2.5 with V's although I see Riv and Crust promoting larger; and biggest 
> fender combo I would try is a Flat 65 with 2.1 or 2.2. 
>
> I will say, after running a couple sets of Motolites and most recently 
> setting up and riding a pair of Avid V brakes ... the Avids work just as 
> well and are even easier to set up. They just lack fanciness. 
>
> Jason 
>
> On Tuesday, 28 February 2023 at 05:29:32 UTC-8 lconley wrote:
>
>> The stem is the Nitto DirtDrop 100mm.
>> I went with the widest 660mm Towel Racks.
>>
>> Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not 
>> to play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't 
>> really see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider 
>> ugly an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the 
>> fender clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get 
>> their cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 10:53:01 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> Something else I have now started to realize is that cantilevers are 
>>> more likely to rub against a handlebar bag. Are V-Brakes preferred for this 
>>> reason?
>>>
>>> Laing, what stem are you using with the towel racks on the bombadil? 
>>> Also, how wide did you go?
>>>
>>> I'm reconsidering my Riv Bullmoose choice and wondering whether towel 
>>> racks (660) or a spank flare 25 bar is a better way to go. 
>>>
>>> I plan on running a BXB goldback bag in the front
>>>
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
>>> Max
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 2:47:11 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>>>
 I use only cantilevers and basically will always ! Good ol' smooth post 
 cantilevers that clear the frame as opened and open all the way. No silly 
 overly long and offset pads that add nothing to the braking performance. I 
 take a certain delight(albeit comical and always good for a laugh in just 
 thinking it), in denigrating v-brakes and certain cantilever designs, 
 including making/selling/defending frames without rear cable stop bridges. 
 Call it what you will, as so have I. ((( laughing )))  Nevertheless, it 
 stands. I could also speak about how "the industry" is their own worst 
 enemy, in fact, their only enemy and the customer but a witness. 

 I remember not long ago before the Clem Riv couldn't give a v-brake 
 away. Then with disc brakes becoming the thing, and dwindling proper canti 
 manufacture and design , it didn't leave them much choice as the frame was 
 a sales hit. It's like drinking a brand of beer you really don't like, but 
 because the wife loves it, and you love the wife's company, you swallow 
 your taste buds,one   bitter   chugatatime.   "Ain't this 
 beer great ?   said with crooked broken smile and whose eyes betold 
 another 
 story. 

 What's life without a couple of good ol' stories ?   teeheehee . 



 So sure Max, Anything but a cantilever on your Bombadil would leave you 
 without any brake at all :-) 





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Re: [RBW] Re: Pedal Question

[Luke Hendrickson]

Jason – I’m switching to the Monarch with the added platform this week. 
I’ve been running Suntour XCii pedals while wearing support free Vans 
tennis shoes and my biggest gripe has been my feet kinda hanging off. I 
have not had any discomfort, even with 80 mile rides. I believe my issues 
mostly stem from having large feet (15.5) and always wanting for more of a 
platform. 

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 10:31:24 AM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've found that the stiffer the soles of the shoes, the better pedaling 
> feels and if the shoe is too flexy you'll get hotspots or foot pain. So I 
> don't think switching pedals will help but switching shoes might.
>
> On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 9:55 AM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>
>> My instinct is that has a lot more to do with the shoes, ie not well 
>> supported arches maybe?  I found that long pedals like the MKS Monarch or 
>> the Bubbly were a gamechanger for foot comfort vs. shorter flat pedals, but 
>> probably because I am always riding in shoes that are objectively too soft 
>> for long distance riding. The Bubbly isn't the grippiest pedal, because it 
>> has no pins, but it's very grippy for a non-pinned and is easily the most 
>> comfortable pedal I've ridden  
>>
>> On Sunday, 26 February 2023 at 22:36:55 UTC-8 swar...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Since it seems like people here are pretty experienced with flat pedals 
>>> I'll ask a question.
>>> I ride flats all the time, but I find that on especially long rides 
>>> (100+ mi) or if I'm putting out too much power (like straining up a hill) I 
>>> start to get foot pain.
>>> Does anyone have good recommendations for flat pedals that are better on 
>>> the feet (I'm a US 10.5 shoe size) - or advice for avoiding foot cramping 
>>> or pain?
>>>
>>> On Sun, Feb 19, 2023 at 10:05 PM Luke Hendrickson <
>>> phendr...@paulpath.net> wrote:
>>>
 Platforms > clipless IMO. I’ve ridden both and like less hassle and 
 fewer impediments to hopping on a bike. Should you not wish to listen to a 
 stranger on the Internet and wish to go full steam ahead, I suggest SPDs 
 especially since, were one to break out on the road, replacement cleats or 
 screws are readily available at most LBSs. Many other clipless pedal 
 options are not. 

 On Sunday, February 19, 2023 at 11:46:09 AM UTC-8 Josiah Anderson wrote:

> I agree with Ted, clipless pedals are not useful for most of the 
> riding I do. That riding consists of commuting, trail riding, long and 
> fast-ish road rides, and both paved and off-road touring. The only time I 
> still use clipless pedals is for racing (which I do just a little of); 
> platforms are much better the rest of the time. Maybe I don't care about 
> foot attachment as much as some people, considering that I'm also a 
> telemark skier, but I think having your foot solidly attached is 
> overrated. 
> I think a lot of the time people do it because they feel like they have 
> to 
> or it's what everyone else is doing, even when there's not a good reason 
> to- that was me for years before I realized how good flat pedals are. 
> Getting a nice pair of pedals helped too- I got a good deal on some thin 
> Crank Brothers platforms with good spikes and nice bearings and they made 
> me like flat pedals a lot more.
>
> That being said, if you really want to try clipless pedals, I 
> recommend Time ATACs. They're the only clipless pedals I've used for the 
> last few years after moving away from SPDs and (eewww) Look road pedals, 
> and I like them for the float and the reasonably supportive pedal body as 
> well as for their performance in muddy conditions (I do race some 
> cyclocross). SPDs work fine too though, and maybe cheaper and easier to 
> find.
>
> Josiah Anderson
> Missoula, MT
>
> Le dim. 19 févr. 2023 à 07:22, Ted Durant  a 
> écrit :
>
>> On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 9:17:48 AM UTC-5 Dick Pahle wrote:
>> trust  its ok to ask for product recomendation here. been riding with 
>> toe clips forever and ready to switch to clipless. anyone here have 
>> thoughts about a good pedal for a beginner. something easy to get in and 
>> out of. i get indegestion looking at all the different 
>> kinds/styles/types. 
>>
>> Okay, I'll be the first to say it ... don't bother! I use Crank 
>> Brothers eggbeater pedals on most of my bikes, and I'm about to put some 
>> flat pedals on one of my regulars and do a fair amount of riding without 
>> bindings to see if I really still want them. I started going down the 
>> no-binding path a while ago, but much of my riding was commuting and I 
>> actually liked bindings for being able to accelerate quickly in traffic. 
>> If 
>> I was doing any group riding, I'd still want them, and for that reason 
>> even 
>> if I ditch the eggbeaters for 

Re: [RBW] Re: Pedal Question

[藍俊彪]

I've found that the stiffer the soles of the shoes, the better pedaling
feels and if the shoe is too flexy you'll get hotspots or foot pain. So I
don't think switching pedals will help but switching shoes might.

On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 9:55 AM Jason Fuller  wrote:

> My instinct is that has a lot more to do with the shoes, ie not well
> supported arches maybe?  I found that long pedals like the MKS Monarch or
> the Bubbly were a gamechanger for foot comfort vs. shorter flat pedals, but
> probably because I am always riding in shoes that are objectively too soft
> for long distance riding. The Bubbly isn't the grippiest pedal, because it
> has no pins, but it's very grippy for a non-pinned and is easily the most
> comfortable pedal I've ridden
>
> On Sunday, 26 February 2023 at 22:36:55 UTC-8 swar...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Since it seems like people here are pretty experienced with flat pedals
>> I'll ask a question.
>> I ride flats all the time, but I find that on especially long rides (100+
>> mi) or if I'm putting out too much power (like straining up a hill) I start
>> to get foot pain.
>> Does anyone have good recommendations for flat pedals that are better on
>> the feet (I'm a US 10.5 shoe size) - or advice for avoiding foot cramping
>> or pain?
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 19, 2023 at 10:05 PM Luke Hendrickson 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Platforms > clipless IMO. I’ve ridden both and like less hassle and
>>> fewer impediments to hopping on a bike. Should you not wish to listen to a
>>> stranger on the Internet and wish to go full steam ahead, I suggest SPDs
>>> especially since, were one to break out on the road, replacement cleats or
>>> screws are readily available at most LBSs. Many other clipless pedal
>>> options are not.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, February 19, 2023 at 11:46:09 AM UTC-8 Josiah Anderson wrote:
>>>
 I agree with Ted, clipless pedals are not useful for most of the riding
 I do. That riding consists of commuting, trail riding, long and fast-ish
 road rides, and both paved and off-road touring. The only time I still use
 clipless pedals is for racing (which I do just a little of); platforms are
 much better the rest of the time. Maybe I don't care about foot attachment
 as much as some people, considering that I'm also a telemark skier, but I
 think having your foot solidly attached is overrated. I think a lot of the
 time people do it because they feel like they have to or it's what everyone
 else is doing, even when there's not a good reason to- that was me for
 years before I realized how good flat pedals are. Getting a nice pair of
 pedals helped too- I got a good deal on some thin Crank Brothers platforms
 with good spikes and nice bearings and they made me like flat pedals a lot
 more.

 That being said, if you really want to try clipless pedals, I recommend
 Time ATACs. They're the only clipless pedals I've used for the last few
 years after moving away from SPDs and (eewww) Look road pedals, and I like
 them for the float and the reasonably supportive pedal body as well as for
 their performance in muddy conditions (I do race some cyclocross). SPDs
 work fine too though, and maybe cheaper and easier to find.

 Josiah Anderson
 Missoula, MT

 Le dim. 19 févr. 2023 à 07:22, Ted Durant  a écrit :

> On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 9:17:48 AM UTC-5 Dick Pahle wrote:
> trust  its ok to ask for product recomendation here. been riding with
> toe clips forever and ready to switch to clipless. anyone here have
> thoughts about a good pedal for a beginner. something easy to get in and
> out of. i get indegestion looking at all the different kinds/styles/types.
>
> Okay, I'll be the first to say it ... don't bother! I use Crank
> Brothers eggbeater pedals on most of my bikes, and I'm about to put some
> flat pedals on one of my regulars and do a fair amount of riding without
> bindings to see if I really still want them. I started going down the
> no-binding path a while ago, but much of my riding was commuting and I
> actually liked bindings for being able to accelerate quickly in traffic. 
> If
> I was doing any group riding, I'd still want them, and for that reason 
> even
> if I ditch the eggbeaters for most of my bikes, I will still keep them on
> my "group ride" bike (my Riv Road).
>
> That said, I've been very happy with eggbeaters because 1) they're
> super easy entry and exit (as long as you replace the cleats regularly), 
> 2)
> low profile cleats with lots of walkable shoe options, 3)there's no 
> tension
> adjustment required and the shoe-cleat-pedal interface is secure as long 
> as
> you replace the cleats regularly and use shims as needed, 4) choice of
> fixed or floating cleats (I prefer fixed), 5) no extra weight. You do want
> shoes with fairly stiff soles, because the pedal itself 

[RBW] FS: Wool Bob-ish Clothes - Ibex, Icebreaker, Pendleton, Smartwool

[Michael Ullmer]

Cross post from the i-bob list:

The annual clearout of the closet is here:

1) Smartwool Merino SS Red Polo Medium- $25
--No holes or stains, excellent shape.

2) Ibex Merino SS Black Polo Medium - $30
--No holes or stains, excellent shape

3) Icebreaker Merino SS Snap Button Up Small - $15
--Two small holes on front bottom left and under right pit and some 
staining on the collar. Also some fraying on the right sleeve seam. All 
snaps and zips work great. This fits like a small and was an excellent 
riding shirt with the pit vents and snaps. Sorry to see this go, but it no 
longer fits me.

4) Pendleton Decade Shirt LS Medium - $20
--This is a much softer wool material than typical Pendletons. Excellent 
shape, no holes or stains.

5) Icebreaker Lodge LS Flannel Shirt Medium - $35
--Excellent shape, no holes or staining.

Prices are net to me and don't include shipping. I'll plan on shipping via 
Pirateship.

Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2PYkCzroTi12V4UL6

PM off-list

Mike in Minneapolis

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[esoterica etc]

> On Feb 28, 2023, at 12:50, Jason Fuller  wrote:
> 
> I will say, after running a couple sets of Motolites and most recently 
> setting up and riding a pair of Avid V brakes ... the Avids work just as well 
> and are even easier to set up. They just lack fanciness. 

Jason, curious as to specifically which Avid V-brakes you were referring to 
here? Very interested in a brake that's comparable in function to the Motolites 
but without the price tag. Thanks,

~Mark
Raleigh, NC

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pedal Question

[Jason Fuller]

My instinct is that has a lot more to do with the shoes, ie not well 
supported arches maybe?  I found that long pedals like the MKS Monarch or 
the Bubbly were a gamechanger for foot comfort vs. shorter flat pedals, but 
probably because I am always riding in shoes that are objectively too soft 
for long distance riding. The Bubbly isn't the grippiest pedal, because it 
has no pins, but it's very grippy for a non-pinned and is easily the most 
comfortable pedal I've ridden  

On Sunday, 26 February 2023 at 22:36:55 UTC-8 swar...@gmail.com wrote:

> Since it seems like people here are pretty experienced with flat pedals 
> I'll ask a question.
> I ride flats all the time, but I find that on especially long rides (100+ 
> mi) or if I'm putting out too much power (like straining up a hill) I start 
> to get foot pain.
> Does anyone have good recommendations for flat pedals that are better on 
> the feet (I'm a US 10.5 shoe size) - or advice for avoiding foot cramping 
> or pain?
>
> On Sun, Feb 19, 2023 at 10:05 PM Luke Hendrickson  
> wrote:
>
>> Platforms > clipless IMO. I’ve ridden both and like less hassle and fewer 
>> impediments to hopping on a bike. Should you not wish to listen to a 
>> stranger on the Internet and wish to go full steam ahead, I suggest SPDs 
>> especially since, were one to break out on the road, replacement cleats or 
>> screws are readily available at most LBSs. Many other clipless pedal 
>> options are not. 
>>
>> On Sunday, February 19, 2023 at 11:46:09 AM UTC-8 Josiah Anderson wrote:
>>
>>> I agree with Ted, clipless pedals are not useful for most of the riding 
>>> I do. That riding consists of commuting, trail riding, long and fast-ish 
>>> road rides, and both paved and off-road touring. The only time I still use 
>>> clipless pedals is for racing (which I do just a little of); platforms are 
>>> much better the rest of the time. Maybe I don't care about foot attachment 
>>> as much as some people, considering that I'm also a telemark skier, but I 
>>> think having your foot solidly attached is overrated. I think a lot of the 
>>> time people do it because they feel like they have to or it's what everyone 
>>> else is doing, even when there's not a good reason to- that was me for 
>>> years before I realized how good flat pedals are. Getting a nice pair of 
>>> pedals helped too- I got a good deal on some thin Crank Brothers platforms 
>>> with good spikes and nice bearings and they made me like flat pedals a lot 
>>> more.
>>>
>>> That being said, if you really want to try clipless pedals, I recommend 
>>> Time ATACs. They're the only clipless pedals I've used for the last few 
>>> years after moving away from SPDs and (eewww) Look road pedals, and I like 
>>> them for the float and the reasonably supportive pedal body as well as for 
>>> their performance in muddy conditions (I do race some cyclocross). SPDs 
>>> work fine too though, and maybe cheaper and easier to find.
>>>
>>> Josiah Anderson
>>> Missoula, MT
>>>
>>> Le dim. 19 févr. 2023 à 07:22, Ted Durant  a écrit :
>>>
 On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 9:17:48 AM UTC-5 Dick Pahle wrote:
 trust  its ok to ask for product recomendation here. been riding with 
 toe clips forever and ready to switch to clipless. anyone here have 
 thoughts about a good pedal for a beginner. something easy to get in and 
 out of. i get indegestion looking at all the different kinds/styles/types. 

 Okay, I'll be the first to say it ... don't bother! I use Crank 
 Brothers eggbeater pedals on most of my bikes, and I'm about to put some 
 flat pedals on one of my regulars and do a fair amount of riding without 
 bindings to see if I really still want them. I started going down the 
 no-binding path a while ago, but much of my riding was commuting and I 
 actually liked bindings for being able to accelerate quickly in traffic. 
 If 
 I was doing any group riding, I'd still want them, and for that reason 
 even 
 if I ditch the eggbeaters for most of my bikes, I will still keep them on 
 my "group ride" bike (my Riv Road). 

 That said, I've been very happy with eggbeaters because 1) they're 
 super easy entry and exit (as long as you replace the cleats regularly), 
 2) 
 low profile cleats with lots of walkable shoe options, 3)there's no 
 tension 
 adjustment required and the shoe-cleat-pedal interface is secure as long 
 as 
 you replace the cleats regularly and use shims as needed, 4) choice of 
 fixed or floating cleats (I prefer fixed), 5) no extra weight. You do want 
 shoes with fairly stiff soles, because the pedal itself offers no support. 
 On the down side, they don't have a flat/binding two-sided option, but 
 that 
 hasn't been an issue for me. I have a box full of old Shimano pedals and 
 cleats. I could never get happy with the shoe-cleat-pedal interface, it 
 was 
 always too loose and 

[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[Jason Fuller]

I need to get Laing to set up my cantis for me :)  I have found V's to have 
significantly more power and tend to save my hands on hillier terrain as a 
result.  I run Motolites on my Bombadil (and I have the canti bridge just 
hanging there.. doesn't look too weird though) and while they do become a 
clearance limitation when you're trying to fit larger fenders, they'll 
clear anything that fits the Bombadil.  I wouldn't go more than 2.4 or 2.5 
with V's although I see Riv and Crust promoting larger; and biggest fender 
combo I would try is a Flat 65 with 2.1 or 2.2. 

I will say, after running a couple sets of Motolites and most recently 
setting up and riding a pair of Avid V brakes ... the Avids work just as 
well and are even easier to set up. They just lack fanciness. 

Jason 

On Tuesday, 28 February 2023 at 05:29:32 UTC-8 lconley wrote:

> The stem is the Nitto DirtDrop 100mm.
> I went with the widest 660mm Towel Racks.
>
> Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not 
> to play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't 
> really see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider 
> ugly an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the 
> fender clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get 
> their cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.
>
> Laing
>
> On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 10:53:01 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>
>> Something else I have now started to realize is that cantilevers are more 
>> likely to rub against a handlebar bag. Are V-Brakes preferred for this 
>> reason?
>>
>> Laing, what stem are you using with the towel racks on the bombadil? 
>> Also, how wide did you go?
>>
>> I'm reconsidering my Riv Bullmoose choice and wondering whether towel 
>> racks (660) or a spank flare 25 bar is a better way to go. 
>>
>> I plan on running a BXB goldback bag in the front
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>> Max
>>
>> On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 2:47:11 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> I use only cantilevers and basically will always ! Good ol' smooth post 
>>> cantilevers that clear the frame as opened and open all the way. No silly 
>>> overly long and offset pads that add nothing to the braking performance. I 
>>> take a certain delight(albeit comical and always good for a laugh in just 
>>> thinking it), in denigrating v-brakes and certain cantilever designs, 
>>> including making/selling/defending frames without rear cable stop bridges. 
>>> Call it what you will, as so have I. ((( laughing )))  Nevertheless, it 
>>> stands. I could also speak about how "the industry" is their own worst 
>>> enemy, in fact, their only enemy and the customer but a witness. 
>>>
>>> I remember not long ago before the Clem Riv couldn't give a v-brake 
>>> away. Then with disc brakes becoming the thing, and dwindling proper canti 
>>> manufacture and design , it didn't leave them much choice as the frame was 
>>> a sales hit. It's like drinking a brand of beer you really don't like, but 
>>> because the wife loves it, and you love the wife's company, you swallow 
>>> your taste buds,one   bitter   chugatatime.   "Ain't this 
>>> beer great ?   said with crooked broken smile and whose eyes betold another 
>>> story. 
>>>
>>> What's life without a couple of good ol' stories ?   teeheehee . 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> So sure Max, Anything but a cantilever on your Bombadil would leave you 
>>> without any brake at all :-) 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Boblist down?

[Patrick Moore]

Make a noise and something happens. I got 2 iboblist messages RIGHT after
sending that post. Nemmind.

On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 9:44 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I know many here are also on the boblist. I've not received and boblist
> traffic for about 12 hours; does anyone know if it's down? Or did they
> cancel me?
>
> Patrick Moore, consoling hisself with the Rivlist instead, in ABQ, NM.
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Boblist down?

[Patrick Moore]

I know many here are also on the boblist. I've not received and boblist
traffic for about 12 hours; does anyone know if it's down? Or did they
cancel me?

Patrick Moore, consoling hisself with the Rivlist instead, in ABQ, NM.

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sharing Your Winter Ride Fotos 2023

['Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Russell, You are correct. I had a brain fart on the location of Tom 
Oswald's businesses (bicycle shop and frame building). And that's despite 
the fact my wife and I visited from Virginia over a decade ago to ride the 
nearby Pine Creek Trail across the state line in NY.
Tom is a very nice fellow. And yes, he has honed his craft well since 
learning it from Dale Brown (of Cycles de Oro in N.C.) when he worked at 
Cycles de Oro. My feeling is that custom steel bicycles remain a bargain, 
given the amount of time lavished on each. (That would apply to a custom 
Riv too of course.)
Good luck on you repair search. (If you are near Boston, isn't that still a 
hot bed of frame building?)
Paul Germain

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 6:55:08 AM UTC-5 rus...@gmail.com wrote:

> Oswald is located in Mansfield PA not MA. I was hoping that he was in 
> Massachusetts as I need some frame repair/modification work done. Nice 
> Oswald bicycle by the way. Despite the fact that he does it part time, it 
> appears that he has  honed his craft. 
>
> Russell Duncan 
> Leverett MA USA
>
> On Feb 27, 2023, at 22:48, Takashi  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Couple of photos from last Friday's ride.
> Sorry that the bike isn't Riv, I was riding Moulton with Sackville and 
> Nigel Smythe bags which I bought from Riv.
>
> [image: DSC02888.jpg]
>
> [image: DSC02891.jpg]
>
> Hardly any snow left on road, but wind was very chilly.
>
> Takashi
>
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>  
> 
> .
> [image: DSC02891.jpg][image: DSC02888.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

The stem is the Nitto DirtDrop 100mm.
I went with the widest 660mm Towel Racks.

Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not to 
play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't 
really see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider 
ugly an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the 
fender clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get 
their cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.

Laing

On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 10:53:01 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

> Something else I have now started to realize is that cantilevers are more 
> likely to rub against a handlebar bag. Are V-Brakes preferred for this 
> reason?
>
> Laing, what stem are you using with the towel racks on the bombadil? Also, 
> how wide did you go?
>
> I'm reconsidering my Riv Bullmoose choice and wondering whether towel 
> racks (660) or a spank flare 25 bar is a better way to go. 
>
> I plan on running a BXB goldback bag in the front
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Max
>
> On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 2:47:11 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>
>> I use only cantilevers and basically will always ! Good ol' smooth post 
>> cantilevers that clear the frame as opened and open all the way. No silly 
>> overly long and offset pads that add nothing to the braking performance. I 
>> take a certain delight(albeit comical and always good for a laugh in just 
>> thinking it), in denigrating v-brakes and certain cantilever designs, 
>> including making/selling/defending frames without rear cable stop bridges. 
>> Call it what you will, as so have I. ((( laughing )))  Nevertheless, it 
>> stands. I could also speak about how "the industry" is their own worst 
>> enemy, in fact, their only enemy and the customer but a witness. 
>>
>> I remember not long ago before the Clem Riv couldn't give a v-brake away. 
>> Then with disc brakes becoming the thing, and dwindling proper canti 
>> manufacture and design , it didn't leave them much choice as the frame was 
>> a sales hit. It's like drinking a brand of beer you really don't like, but 
>> because the wife loves it, and you love the wife's company, you swallow 
>> your taste buds,one   bitter   chugatatime.   "Ain't this 
>> beer great ?   said with crooked broken smile and whose eyes betold another 
>> story. 
>>
>> What's life without a couple of good ol' stories ?   teeheehee . 
>>
>>
>>
>> So sure Max, Anything but a cantilever on your Bombadil would leave you 
>> without any brake at all :-) 
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Maps of European bicycle manufactures in Italy, France and now England

[Andy Beichler]

I just received the English map. I  am very pleased with the quality.  

On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 7:43:49 PM UTC-5 rus...@gmail.com wrote:

> I also purchased a set of three. They are quite well done. The designer 
> used head badges, etc to map out where each bicycle and parts manufacturer 
> were located geographically in the three countries. 
>
> On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 3:47:23 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> In my Reddit feed, I came across these maps through the r/vintage_bicycle 
>> sub-reddit site.
>> They can be purchased through www.corsaclassic.com . These are folded. 
>> You can take an iron and iron the creases out, then hang them on your wall. 
>>
>> I bought all three maps; Italian, French and English for $48.00, with 
>> international shipping included. 
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[Garth]

That totally depends on the location and type or rack, bag, and cable run. 
You don't have to have a drop down cable stop in your headset stack, you 
can use a Tektro 1277A fork mounted cable stop w/adjuster which allows a 
solid cable run just like a caliper brake. V-brakes are no more a solution 
than cantilevers are a problem. 



On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 10:53:01 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

Something else I have now started to realize is that cantilevers are more 
likely to rub against a handlebar bag. Are V-Brakes preferred for this 
reason?


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