Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-05-13 Thread Chris Fly
Well, between this thread and some others on other forums I've read, I see
no reason to stray away from my latex tubes in my Serotta or my butyl tubes
in my other bikes.. and, honestly, I can't see TPU riding any better than
latex.. and I don't mind pumping my tires, gives me a reason to use that
Silca pump I got for Christmas.. ;^)

Maybe I'll try the sealant in tube thing at some point if I start needing
to..

Chris

On Mon, May 13, 2024 at 7:58 AM John Dewey  wrote:

> Only one data point for sure…but I’ve had terrible ‘luck’ with TPU. And my
> last puncture occurred JRA on smooth pave and the startling thing was how
> fast the tire deflated—instantaneously. Boom gone 
>
> That’s it for me, for now anyway. Perhaps the tech will evolve and then
> I’ll try again. I’d certainly love to ride that supple with complete
> confidence.
>
> Jock
>
> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-05-11 Thread Chris Fly
Patrick,

How is it to take a tube with sealant out of the tire after the sealant has 
fixed a hole? Do they stick to each other?

Chris 

Make a space for people to come as they are and not have to just “fit in”

> On May 11, 2024, at 2:11 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
> 
> 
> I've used sealant in inner tubes since about 2013, when after years of using 
> ~utility tires (Paselas, Kojaks, Fatboys, City Slickers, Tom Slicks, Avocets) 
> and fixing >150 flats per year I tried a pair of new "open tubular" Paris 
> Roubaix and got 5 goathead flats within 10 or 15 miles. Stan's worked in my 
> 700C X 28 standard road tubes and, after a couple of years, Orange Seal 
> worked even better.
> 
> I use Orange Seal in the lightest-weight butyls I can find; notable 100 gram 
> actual 650B/559 X 1.8 Schwalbes and 70 gram actual Schwalbe 650C X 20/559X1", 
> as well as Conti 650C/559 ditto, Specialized 26X1" ditto,  and (IIRC) 
> lightweight Vittoria ditto. 
> 
> OS in tubes at 30 to 60 psi works I'd guess a metaphorical 905 or 95% as well 
> as OS in fat tubeless low pressure tires.
> 
> OS Regular Formula! OS Endurance, wonderful in fat lp tubeless tires, does 
> not work for me in road tubes at 30 to 60 psi.
> 
> The penetrants I face are almost always goatheads. I get the very occasional 
> (<1X/year for 2-3K miles across 3 bikes) larger hole that OS Regular won't 
> seal, but even those are 9 times out of 10 slow leaks and let me get home 
> before the tire goes flat (short rides, =/<30 miles). I carry 2 spare tubes, 
> either containing 2 fl oz of OS Regular or -- now prefer -- dry + 4 fl oz 
> bottle of OS Regular, and on the very rare occasions I have to stop mid ride 
> for a puncture I change the tube and repair the puncture with a Rema once 
> back home. 
> 
> You can patch tubes with sealant as long as you clean all sealant off the 
> area to be patched (I use alcohol just to be sure), then rough it, glue, and 
> patch as usual.
> 
> Stan's used to leave rubber octopuses of dried sealant in tubes after 12 or 
> 18 months; OS regular does not do that; I only add more -- 1X year or less 
> often -- when my tubes start deflating and not sealing immediately -- due, I 
> think, to many small punctures over 12-18 months that leak very small amounts 
> of sealant into the tire carcase, so that eventually there is no longer 
> enough left in the tube to do its job. This compares to replacing OS 
> Endurance every 3 or 4 months in lp tubeless tires in our dry climate; in 
> very dry hot weather ~3 months, in colder, more humid weather, ~4 months.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
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Re: [RBW] Rivendell (Roadini) Geometry

2024-04-28 Thread Chris Fly
for sure.. I would guess if you can swing your arms back and have no
feeling of falling forward for a while, probably too far back.. but also,
many folks talk about feeling your feet are "reaching" when the saddle is
too far back.. I've read you can also tell by glute activation, but I'm not
that perceptive to know about that one.. ;)

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024 at 3:07 PM Jason Noonievut 
wrote:

> Hey Chris - I’ve watched a lot of Neill’s videos.  I can ride on the road
> and take my hands off the bars comfortably.  Here the thing, when the
> saddle is far set back, I can do this, when it’s perfect fore/aft, I can
> also do this.  When it’s too far forward yes I would fall.  So this alone
> only tells you you’re not too far forward.  That’s been my experience
> anyways.  But I always try this.
>
> This afternoon I spent adjusting the fore/aft, riding around and tweaking
> it until it felt good.  I ended up pushing it 7mm forward.  Still well
> balanced on the saddle, and pedal stroke fees better.  I then swapped the
> 70mm stem for an 80mm.  Feeling better.  Now I need a couple rides to
> confirm.
>
> Jason
>
> On Apr 28, 2024, at 4:54 PM, Chris Fly  wrote:
>
> 
> I think the one thing that fore and aft on a spreadsheet (meaning the nose
> of the saddle should be xxcm behind the saddle based on xx leg measurement)
> is how heavy you are from the waist up.. the heavier your torso and/or head
> is, the further back your saddle will probably have to be to ensure you
> aren't putting too much pressure on the hands.. of course bar height can
> mitigate some of this as well, but we all are still, effectively, a
> cantilever when we are sitting on the bike and must account for that
> balance point.. I'm at the heaviest I've ever been currently and I assume
> as I lose body mass up top (where most men carry their fat), I will be able
> to bring the saddle forward a bit (to a point, of course).. Steve Hogg and
> Neill Stanbury (bike fitters, both in Australia I believe) are big
> believers in getting riding at a moderately hard pace on a trainer (or
> outside if you are a good bike handler) and gently swinging your arms back
> behind you from the hoods (or drops depending on fitter).. if you
> immediately start to fall forward, your saddle is probably too far
> forward.. if you can maintain your torso position (you might start to fall
> after 15-30 sec, core probably plays into this as well), you are probably
> in a good position.. I assume this would work with a Brooks-type saddle as
> well, but can't confirm..  **if you are running alt bars, I don't imagine
> this is relevant..
>
> Here is Steve Hogg's take on it:
> https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
>
> Chris, needing to lose some fat in Sonoma County..
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2024 at 12:26 PM Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, Apr 27, 2024 at 8:23 PM Jay  wrote:
>>
>>> ... I measure setback on both bikes and the Fargo is coming out as
>>> saddle 5.5cm setback from BB, 7cm on the Roadini.
>>>
>>
>> There's the reason for the difference. I've always (well, since Grant
>> taught me to do this 30 years ago) started assembly and fit with saddle
>> height, setback, and angle, then, after getting the saddle in place, put
>> the bar a more or less standard distance from and height below the saddle
>> nose. I do modify  bar reach and height for bikes used off road but my body
>> position is much the same on all my bikes even if my bar is higher but
>> further forward.
>>
>> Sometimes a more reward position can be *more comfortable* because
>> it takes weight off your shoulders, etc, because when butt-back and bent
>> forward sufficiently your torso muscles carry more of the weight.
>>
>> Of course, you have to decide what a good setback is for comfort
>> (including weight off your shoulders, arms, and hands) and power and
>> handling -- also, how you'll use the bike: see below -- but in my case bb
>> setback is about the same for all my bikes.
>>
>> Peter Jon White has an excellent article on bike setup starting with
>> saddle setback: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.php
>>
>> ... Now we get to what I think is the most important part of fitting a
>> bicycle, the fore-aft position of the saddle. Once you get this right,
>> everything else is easy. This position is determined more by how you intend
>> to use your bike than by anything else. If you look at a typical bike, the
>> saddle is behind the crank center, or bottom bracket. There's a frame tube
>> (the seat tube) running from the cranks to the saddle, and it's at an
>> angle. That angle partly determines th

Re: [RBW] Rivendell (Roadini) Geometry

2024-04-28 Thread Chris Fly
I think the one thing that fore and aft on a spreadsheet (meaning the nose
of the saddle should be xxcm behind the saddle based on xx leg measurement)
is how heavy you are from the waist up.. the heavier your torso and/or head
is, the further back your saddle will probably have to be to ensure you
aren't putting too much pressure on the hands.. of course bar height can
mitigate some of this as well, but we all are still, effectively, a
cantilever when we are sitting on the bike and must account for that
balance point.. I'm at the heaviest I've ever been currently and I assume
as I lose body mass up top (where most men carry their fat), I will be able
to bring the saddle forward a bit (to a point, of course).. Steve Hogg and
Neill Stanbury (bike fitters, both in Australia I believe) are big
believers in getting riding at a moderately hard pace on a trainer (or
outside if you are a good bike handler) and gently swinging your arms back
behind you from the hoods (or drops depending on fitter).. if you
immediately start to fall forward, your saddle is probably too far
forward.. if you can maintain your torso position (you might start to fall
after 15-30 sec, core probably plays into this as well), you are probably
in a good position.. I assume this would work with a Brooks-type saddle as
well, but can't confirm..  **if you are running alt bars, I don't imagine
this is relevant..

Here is Steve Hogg's take on it:
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/

Chris, needing to lose some fat in Sonoma County..

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024 at 12:26 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> On Sat, Apr 27, 2024 at 8:23 PM Jay  wrote:
>
>> ... I measure setback on both bikes and the Fargo is coming out as saddle
>> 5.5cm setback from BB, 7cm on the Roadini.
>>
>
> There's the reason for the difference. I've always (well, since Grant
> taught me to do this 30 years ago) started assembly and fit with saddle
> height, setback, and angle, then, after getting the saddle in place, put
> the bar a more or less standard distance from and height below the saddle
> nose. I do modify  bar reach and height for bikes used off road but my body
> position is much the same on all my bikes even if my bar is higher but
> further forward.
>
> Sometimes a more reward position can be *more comfortable* because
> it takes weight off your shoulders, etc, because when butt-back and bent
> forward sufficiently your torso muscles carry more of the weight.
>
> Of course, you have to decide what a good setback is for comfort
> (including weight off your shoulders, arms, and hands) and power and
> handling -- also, how you'll use the bike: see below -- but in my case bb
> setback is about the same for all my bikes.
>
> Peter Jon White has an excellent article on bike setup starting with
> saddle setback: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.php
>
> ... Now we get to what I think is the most important part of fitting a
> bicycle, the fore-aft position of the saddle. Once you get this right,
> everything else is easy. This position is determined more by how you intend
> to use your bike than by anything else. If you look at a typical bike, the
> saddle is behind the crank center, or bottom bracket. There's a frame tube
> (the seat tube) running from the cranks to the saddle, and it's at an
> angle. That angle partly determines the fore-aft position of the saddle
> relative to the cranks and pedals. That fore-aft position determines how
> your body is balanced on the bicycle. Your balance determines how
> comfortable you are, and how efficiently you can pedal the bike.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell (Roadini) Geometry

2024-04-28 Thread Chris Fly
sorry to say you may have bought the wrong size bike (esp if you put drop 
bars on it).. the Riv sizing recommendations are, and always have been, to 
put someone on the biggest size frame they think will work from what I can 
tell.. I'm sure that works for some folks, but it doesn't work for me.. 
Rivs are bigger bike to begin with, IMHO.. 

On Sunday, April 28, 2024 at 3:43:50 AM UTC-7 Jay wrote:

> Cranks on my Riv are 172.5, 175 on the Fargo, but my road bike also has 
> 172.5 (5.5cm setback).
>
> I still have room on the rails of the Riv, just have to change my saddle 
> bag (to one without a quick release).  I’ll report back in a week or so!
>
> Jason
>
> On Apr 28, 2024, at 1:56 AM, Brenton Eastman  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Yep. 170 sugino XD2 triple on both bikes. 
>
> On Apr 27, 2024, at 9:16 PM, Jim in Mpls  wrote:
>
> Is your crank length the same on both bikes?
>
> On Saturday, April 27, 2024 at 10:01:24 PM UTC-5 brenton...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> On my Hillborne and Roadini I am running brooks B17 almost at the max fwd 
>> position. Not sure what to compare it to but both are super comfy. I also 
>> have 57cm (both bikes) but I'm 6'1"
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, April 27, 2024 at 7:23:08 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
>>
>>> I've been enjoying my first Riv, a Roadini, since getting it in 
>>> February.  Just one thing I feel like I'm struggling with, saddle set back.
>>>
>>> It's a size 57, I'm 5'11 and my PHB meant a 57 or 54 would work.  It 
>>> came with the setback seat post and that put me really far behind the BB 
>>> compared to my other bikes, so I got a zero offset post and that helped 
>>> things, but I'm still running my Brooks C17 pushed 3/4 of the way forward 
>>> on the rails.  Funny thing is my Salsa Fargo, which has a 73 degree ST 
>>> angle, vs. 72 on the Roadini, running the same saddle, and less set back 
>>> (also on a zero offset post).  I can feel the difference when I'm pedaling; 
>>> on the Fargo, my pedal stroke feels really good.  On the Roadini it feels 
>>> like the pedals are out in front and I'm over-using posterior chain in an 
>>> unnatural pedal stroke.  I measure setback on both bikes and the Fargo is 
>>> coming out as saddle 5.5cm setback from BB, 7cm on the Roadini.
>>>
>>> Anyone else notice this?  I may try pushing the saddle all the way 
>>> forward on the rails, then maybe set post up a bit, but wanted to ask this 
>>> question first.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-04-22 Thread Chris Fly
Steve,
roger on the rotational weight for sure.. I guess where I see TPUs falling
down compared to latex tubes is a quality latex tube is around 75-80 grams,
compared to 35-45 grams for a TPU.. so not quite double, but we're also not
talking double like 100 vs 200 here.. guess I'm just not convinced I'd
notice 40 paperclip's worth of weight when spinning up my wheels.. esp when
we are talking the larger tires that most Riv riders roll with (or even my
30mm Vittorias on my Anderson).. but, hey, I'd never begrudge someone
buying something they wanted.. ;) the other issue, as I understand it, with
TPU tubes is once you inflate them, they will always maintain that size
they are when they are inflated, meaning they don't shrink back down to the
small packed size they were out of the package.. since that is one of the
biggest perks I've seen folks tout for TPUs (smaller footprint in the
saddlebag), it seems as it that would be negated when you go to put your
TPU tube back in your kit for next time? This is what I've read/seen on
videos, so I could be wrong since I've never tried them yet.. YMMV :)

Chris in Sonoma Co

On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 4:36 PM Steve  wrote:

> Fourflys, I get your' comment regarding weight savings - heck, I'm
> planning to try TPUs on my full fendered and front racked Platypus which
> tips the sales around  32 lbs. *However* - my experience has always
> been that reducing the rotational weight of the wheels/tires yields a
> noticeable  dividend in performance, especially when climbing or
> accelerating.  It's the same reason that I've long considered a primo wheel
> set to be a worthwhile upgrade.
>
> Steve in AVL
>
> On Monday, April 22, 2024 at 5:23:39 PM UTC-4 four...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> seems like a lot of faff for a tube, esp to save a few grams on, mostly,
>> bike that are not weight weenie builds (I mean we're riding Rivs!!).. I
>> think I'll stick with latex if I want a fast rolling, lightish tube.. and
>> butyl as backup in the bar bag..
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 2:00 PM Peter Adler  wrote:
>>
>>> My hunch is that the plastic (rubber?) donut is acting as a spacer for
>>> the valve stem, so that the tube isn't rubbing directly against the
>>> often-rough edge of the valve hole. On the recommendation of otherBOBs,
>>> i've been threading a second dork nut onto my valve stems for the last few
>>> years, to push the rubber outboard at an unpatchable spot. I'd bee
>>> wondering whether the RH valve stems were threaded all the way down; sounds
>>> like they've obviated the need with the rubber donut.
>>>
>>> For general knowledge, if anyone wanted to produce a similar effect
>>> without the extra weight of a dork nut, the little rubber donuts used to
>>> keep cables from rubbing against finish look like they'd work.
>>>
>>> Peter Adler
>>> Berkeley, California
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 22, 2024 at 11:28:06 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:
>>>
>>> Anyone else who has received RH TPU tubes … mine have a little round
>>> piece of plastic between the valve stem and the tube, like a cute little
>>> collar, that seems to be for reinforcement, but it’s not actually attached
>>> to the tube - it’s just floating there. If it was glued to the tube, it
>>> probably would have prevented the leak. Anybody else looked at their tubes
>>> - is that collar attached or flapping around?
>>>
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>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-04-22 Thread Chris Fly
seems like a lot of faff for a tube, esp to save a few grams on, mostly,
bike that are not weight weenie builds (I mean we're riding Rivs!!).. I
think I'll stick with latex if I want a fast rolling, lightish tube.. and
butyl as backup in the bar bag..

On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 2:00 PM Peter Adler  wrote:

> My hunch is that the plastic (rubber?) donut is acting as a spacer for the
> valve stem, so that the tube isn't rubbing directly against the often-rough
> edge of the valve hole. On the recommendation of otherBOBs, i've been
> threading a second dork nut onto my valve stems for the last few years, to
> push the rubber outboard at an unpatchable spot. I'd bee wondering whether
> the RH valve stems were threaded all the way down; sounds like they've
> obviated the need with the rubber donut.
>
> For general knowledge, if anyone wanted to produce a similar effect
> without the extra weight of a dork nut, the little rubber donuts used to
> keep cables from rubbing against finish look like they'd work.
>
> Peter Adler
> Berkeley, California
>
> On Monday, April 22, 2024 at 11:28:06 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:
>
> Anyone else who has received RH TPU tubes … mine have a little round piece
> of plastic between the valve stem and the tube, like a cute little collar,
> that seems to be for reinforcement, but it’s not actually attached to the
> tube - it’s just floating there. If it was glued to the tube, it probably
> would have prevented the leak. Anybody else looked at their tubes - is that
> collar attached or flapping around?
>
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[RBW] Re: TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-04-21 Thread Chris Fly
Hi Ted,

I'd be curious if you came off butyl or latex tubes prior? guess I'm just 
not that convinced the TPUs are worth the extra price over latex (at least 
the price of the RH versions)..

Thanks,
Chris 

On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 12:49:27 PM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> I just received a box of tubes that I ordered from Rene Herse, so here's 
> my 1-ride review.
>
> Bike and rider weight is about 70kg/150lbs.
>
> First impression ... they are crazy small and light. Clear plastic tubes 
> with shiny metal valve stems and "Rene Herse blue" caps - nice touch! 
> Unfolding them they seem fragile, especially the valve stem junction.
>
> I ordered some 700x20-32 and 650x45-68. I installed the 700c tubes on my 
> Waterford, which has 32mm Stampede Pass EL tires on DT TK-540 rims with 
> Velox rim tape. The rear tire is fairly new and had a bit over 500km on it. 
> It had been reinstalled a few times (March is a bad time for flats in WI!). 
> The front tire is a year old, probably has 3-4000km on it. Both tires come 
> off the rim and go back on without tire levers. The tubes are a tight fit 
> on the rim and have to be stretched a bit to get around the rim. The tires 
> popped right back on, and I inflated to 60 psi to seat the beads, then 
> backed off to 45psi. On the second wheel the tube/stem interface 
> immediately cracked and I had to grab a 3rd tube. I don't know if that was 
> a bad tube or user error. No tire lever, but it's possible I didn't push 
> the stem up into the tire enough to ensure the tube wasn't trapped by the 
> bead. Given how fragile they feel, it seems it won't take much to cause 
> that to happen.
>
> First subjective observation - I can really feel the weight reduction 
> handling the wheels. Noticeably less inertia around the perimeter.
>
> First ride was 100km of road riding across the north side of Milwaukee 
> (urban riding) through the western suburbs and exurbs to some rural roads 
> around Holy Hill. At 900m of climbing, it's a pretty hilly ride but not 
> crazy. Some of the road surfaces are beautiful, freshly paved goodness. 
> Others are, well, lunar. I often take my Breadwinner out there for its 48mm 
> tires. 
>
> Immediate second subjective observation is that the tires sound different. 
> There's a "whoosh whoosh" that sounds like nice tubulars. Third subjective 
> observation is that the bumps feel and sound different, more "thwip thwhip" 
> than "thump thump". Third subjective observation is that it FEELS like the 
> tires return more energy from deflection, whether from bumps or, 
> especially, when swerving suddenly to avoid an obstacle or making a quick 
> acceleration. I have no idea if there really is less hysteresis loss, but 
> it feels that way.
>
> No flats today, but clear dry roads, even crossing the north side of the 
> city, aren't usually an issue. 
>
> So, I very much like the lightness and the feel of them, and the light 
> blue stem caps are a nice touch that will look good on most of my bikes. 
> I'm concerned about the fragility of the valve stem interface. No data or 
> anecdotes, yet, on durability and ease of repair.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini Build - Mix of Modern and Retro

2024-03-08 Thread Chris Fly
Velo Orange also makes a 31.8 removable clamp quill stem that works pretty
well, I have one of my AHH.. but I like your solution as well!

https://velo-orange.com/collections/quill-stems/products/quill-stem-with-removable-faceplate-31-8mm?variant=52981508999

On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 4:13 PM Collin A  wrote:

> Jay,
>
> Looks awesome! The dark gold and celeste/seafoam bar tape is a combo I
> didn't think would look good, but I'm a fan!
>
> If you want a more svelte headset solution you can try one of these out:  
> innicycle
> - Threadless Conversion Headset™ 
>
> I used one on an old trek conversion years ago and it worked great.
>
> Collin in Bezerkely
>
> On Friday, March 8, 2024 at 3:34:52 PM UTC-8 Jay wrote:
>
>> I think I finally landed on a saddle, and stem.  I've been trying to find
>> a more comfortable saddle on all bikes for a while now.  I tried the C17 on
>> my Salsa and it was very good.  Bought one in orange for the Roadini and I
>> think it looks decent.  Two 1.5hr rides and can confirm it's comfortable.
>> I ordered a -17 degree stem as I'm using 31.8 bars and a stem adaptor, and
>> knew where I wanted the bars located and this stem worked out well.
>> Hopefully this is it for a while!
>>
>> If I could go back I would change a few things aesthetically, but not the
>> parts themselves -- bike rides really nice and I feel good during and after
>> the ride.
>>
>> [image: Roadini 1.jpeg]
>>
>>
>> [image: Roadini 2.jpeg]
>> On Monday, February 12, 2024 at 11:41:45 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Any chance you can post a picture of the rear brake and the tire
>>> clearance (if any)?
>>>
>>> I've been experimenting with the Ass Saver Win Wing Gravel (found
>>> someone selling them on ebay for $10), and I have to say that it works
>>> surprisingly well. Easy-on Easy-off. Won't protect your BB bearings but
>>> since I'm getting around 25K miles on the BB bearings anyway I'm fine with
>>> that.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, February 11, 2024 at 11:01:38 AM UTC-8 Jay wrote:
>>>
 The build is complete!  This is iteration 1a.  1b will occur later this
 week when I get a new seat post, with 0 setback; and a different stem, 10mm
 shorter and less rise (that should be very close to the fit I'm looking for
 on this bike...saddle not at the end of the max line on the rails, as I
 want it around 5mm closer, then up 1-2mm, and I want to rotate the bars
 forward a bit to get a better hand position on the hoods).

 Shout out to C Cycles in Montreal, Quebec (Canada).  Very helpful and
 patient with me (e.g., getting the bar tape and gel pad dialled in after
 good discussion).  For any Canadian's out there, definitely check them out
 for your Riv needs (and thoughtful selection of other bikes, components and
 accessories).

 *Colour*: It was a difficult call between this and Sergio Green.  I'm
 happy with my choice in the end.  I like the gum hoods, though I initially
 wanted the black/silver and thought would go well with brown bar tape;
 maybe in a future iteration.  I didn't like the look of these gum hoods
 with black bar tape, and I've always had black, so I wanted something
 different that compliments the hoods and looks nice against the frame.
 This Fizik tape was the best (to me) of what I had looked at.  A shade
 darker would have been good, but this colour is growing on me.  When it
 gets a bit dirty and I think it will improve!  I bet the crank would like
 sweet in silver...I'll leave that for a future iteration, as I wanted to
 use what I already owned (I ticked this box in spades).

 *Build*: I wont list out everything as most are clear from the photos
 below.  Wheels are handbuilt; I've had a set of these previously and really
 liked them.  I had the tires already (GKSS 43mm) and they were great on
 this initial ride (mainly paved, with some gravel that was ride-able); they
 measure 42.2, and there was plenty more room on the front but not much in
 the back for anything larger, but these were fine.  I had DT shifters on a
 bike 10 years ago and really enjoyed using them, and I really liked them on
 today's ride.  I'll save the rest of the parts for below.  I will add
 though that I have a second wheel set that I'm going to set up with 30mm
 fast rubberier road rides to see if I can keep up with my buddy who is
 faster than me (more to come on this!).

 *The Ride*: like wow!  So much to say, I'm going to forget a whole
 bunch of things I thought of during the 2hr ride.  I'll compare to the
 Surly Cross Chek I had over a year ago and my Salsa Fargo (replaced the CC,
 and I love it for unpaved).  Carrying the bike upstairs for the first ride,
 was much lighter than I thought (I have zero complaints with the weight).
 Minor fit issues aside (soon to be resolved, hopefully), the ride was so
 smooth, maybe 

[RBW] Re: FS: Roadini 50CM

2024-02-24 Thread Chris Fly
I have to assume it's this 
one: 
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/bik/d/el-cajon-rivendell-radini-50cm/7719401355.html

On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 12:00:44 PM UTC-8 Dorothy C wrote:

> What color?
>
> On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 8:48:20 AM UTC-8 James B wrote:
>
>> I recently purchased this Roadini but due to circumstances of life, I 
>> must pare down my fleet.  $1800 for local pickup in the San Diego area.  I 
>> am willing to ship but buyer will be responsible for shipping. 
>> 50 cm frame  PBH range of 77-83
>> 9 cm Nitto stem
>> 46cm Nitto bars
>> Silver 2 shifters
>> Nitto Seatpost
>> Shimano Nexave Rear Derailleur
>> Microshift Front Derailleur
>> Velocity RIms laced to Shimano 105 hubs 32 hole
>> Panaracer 700x38 Gravelkings
>> Tektro R559 Brakes
>> Silver 2 crankset
>> Berthound Aravis Saddle (ti Rails)
>> The bike is in perfect condition with 0 scratches. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 50cm Roadini

2024-02-24 Thread Chris Fly
Thanks, I'll check it out!

I wonder if this is anyone on here?

On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 7:15 AM Doug H.  wrote:

> Here is one on craigslist...
> https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/bik/d/el-cajon-rivendell-radini-50cm/7719401355.html
> Doug
>
> On Friday, February 23, 2024 at 10:06:09 PM UTC-5 four...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey all, still searching for a 50cm Roadini.. I know I can still get a
>> new frameset, but hoping to get in with a bit cheaper route.. frameset or
>> complete..
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
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[RBW] WTB 50cm Roadini

2024-02-23 Thread Chris Fly
Hey all, still searching for a 50cm Roadini.. I know I can still get a new 
frameset, but hoping to get in with a bit cheaper route.. frameset or 
complete.. 

Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-10 Thread Chris Fly
Agree with Patrick on the seat setback, you don’t want to futz with that once it’s set where you need it based on only the saddle and not the reach.. And the Specialized bars are nice, I run those on two of my non-Riv bikes.. Ritchey also makes the Ergomax bars that are similar to the Spec. bars, but have a bit of backsweep that could help bring the hoods a little bit closer.. Chris Make a space for people to come as they are and not have to just “fit in”On Feb 10, 2024, at 11:27 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:Ethan: Two suggestions:1. Don't use saddle adjustment to adjust your bar. Get your saddle where it should be for greatest comfort and pedaling efficiency -- saddle height and setback in relation to the bottom bracket or crank axle is where I start my setup -- and then determine from saddle position where your bar should be, and choose stem and bar to suit.2. For the ultimate in shortness and shallowness in a drop bar (narrowness too, it seems), take a look at the Specialized Hover bar: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/hover-expert-alloy-handlebars--15mm-rise/p/156001?color=230548-156001It's ugly but it has essentially no ramps because the reach is so short and it has a very shallow drop with a 15 mm rise at the stem clamp. I used one of these on my erstwhile Medium 2012 Monocog (gave it to a friend) to get a drop bar more or less comfortable on a frame with (by my road standard) an immensely too long top tube (59.6 cm versus my preferred 56 or 57 cm). I tried it with several stems (expensive even with generic MVS or whatever they were stems), going from 17* 9 cm to 30 or 35* 7 cm. Still a wee bit far but much, much better. I went thru this bar and stem contortion because even a Hover bar (mine was 44 cm) a cm or 2 too far away was better than any non-drop bar I could find.On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:14:49 PM UTC-5 Ethan K wrote:...  I already have the seat forward on the rails, btw. I will swap the stem this weekend and see how that goes. Next  would be  handlebars, going shorter reach and also narrower. (sounds like I shouldn't be afraid of going even shorter.) I'm currently running a 46cm Noodle, which feels wide in addition to long. When I swapped bars on the Breezer, I went with shorter AND narrower, going from 44-42, and both of those changes helped a lot.



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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-09 Thread Chris Fly
not sure I'd call the Noodles short reach with a 92mm (per Riv site) 
reach.. maybe shorter than some older school bars, but current bar design 
has much shorter reaches.. the Salsa Cowbells I use on my Homer have a 
reach of 68mm and drops of 115mm.. the Noodles have a much deeper drop at 
140mm that, for me, is far to deep to really be useful.. but everyone has 
their own preferences.. the other bars I like are the Ritchey Butano bars 
that have a 73mm reach and 115mm drops.. 

Chris in Sonoma County 

On Friday, February 9, 2024 at 5:48:02 PM UTC-8 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ 
wrote:

> Ethan
>
> I suggest you measure your AHH and Breezer as I suggested.  This will give 
> you a good idea of how much each change on the AHH goes to meeting the 
> distance you have on the Breezer.  Your Noddle bars are already short 
> reach, 96mm comes to mind changing bars may not give you much.   
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:14:49 PM UTC-5 Ethan K wrote:
>
>> Hi all, thank you so much for the replies. To answer some questions and 
>> provide additional info: 
>> Joe you are correct: 55 Cheviot, 54.5 Homer. I had thought about getting 
>> a purple Apaloosa when they went on sale last year, but after talking to 
>> Rivendell, realized that the Homer was a better fit for my use case. Once I 
>> saw they were offering the butternut/mustard/classic Datsun color, I was 
>> in. 
>>
>>  It's tough picking a size without getting a chance to try the bikes 
>> first, so I utilized the PBH sizing Riv recommends--but I do think the 
>> frame is a bit large, all things considered. Standover does work for me, so 
>> I'm hopeful I can get it to work.  I already have the seat forward on the 
>> rails, btw. I will swap the stem this weekend and see how that goes. Next 
>>  would be  handlebars, going shorter reach and also narrower. (sounds like 
>> I shouldn't be afraid of going even shorter.) I'm currently running a 46cm 
>> Noodle, which feels wide in addition to long. When I swapped bars on the 
>> Breezer, I went with shorter AND narrower, going from 44-42, and both of 
>> those changes helped a lot. . Oh, and Chris, thanks for reminding me about 
>> handlebar diameter. I forgot about the different standards. I think between 
>> bar and stem, I can make it work for me. This bike is beautiful (way more 
>> than my pic), and I put a lot of thought into the build. In retrospect, I 
>> would have gotten the bike fit first, with the Breezer, to get all the #s I 
>> need. 
>>
>> Also, thank you Liz for the detailed fit info and the suggestion 
>> regarding quill/threadless adapters for the bike fit. I was wondering how 
>> that would work.
>>
>> --Eitan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:21:47 AM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> Agreed, I used to run a 30mm extension (w)right stem from Analog Cycles 
>>> paired with a short reach SimWorks Co-Misirlou Bar on my 61 Toyo AHH. I 
>>> think a shorter 5cm or even 30mm extension stem will do the trick if you're 
>>> set on dropbars 
>>> Max 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 11:18:41 AM UTC-5 four...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 so I have a first gen Homer with drop bars and I totally get your point 
 on reach, they do seem to be long bikes.. at least with drop bars fitted. 
 Plus, I firmly believe the Riv folks tend to skew to putting folks a bike 
 one size too large for them (at least in my experience).. 

 What I did was get the Velo Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. 
 This stem allows you to use 31.8 bars (or smaller with shims) and opens up 
 a TON more bar options than a traditional quill stem with the smaller 
 diameters. I'm currently using Salsa Cowbell bars as they have a shorter 
 reach and shorter drop that I MUCH prefer over something like a Noodle.. 
 another point is the wider the bars, the longer the reach will feel.. 

 Chris in Sonoma County

 On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 7:31:28 AM UTC-8 ian m wrote:

> If the standover height is acceptable, then I would argue the larger 
> frame is going to lead to a better fit. I have a hard time with just the 
> raw data which is why I like using bike insights. Comparing the 54.5 and 
> 51 
> Homers, we can see a few important points: the stack is much higher 
> meaning 
> the bars are already starting higher. Even with an effective top tube 
> increase of 15mm, the reach is only 1mm more on the 54.5. Easily 
> mitigated 
> with a stem. Seat is going to land on the same axis with either size, so 
> fit should be very similar with less seatpost and stem showing. 
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
>> photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
>> accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the 

[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-08 Thread Chris Fly
so I have a first gen Homer with drop bars and I totally get your point on 
reach, they do seem to be long bikes.. at least with drop bars fitted. 
Plus, I firmly believe the Riv folks tend to skew to putting folks a bike 
one size too large for them (at least in my experience).. 

What I did was get the Velo Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. 
This stem allows you to use 31.8 bars (or smaller with shims) and opens up 
a TON more bar options than a traditional quill stem with the smaller 
diameters. I'm currently using Salsa Cowbell bars as they have a shorter 
reach and shorter drop that I MUCH prefer over something like a Noodle.. 
another point is the wider the bars, the longer the reach will feel.. 

Chris in Sonoma County

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 7:31:28 AM UTC-8 ian m wrote:

> If the standover height is acceptable, then I would argue the larger frame 
> is going to lead to a better fit. I have a hard time with just the raw data 
> which is why I like using bike insights. Comparing the 54.5 and 51 Homers, 
> we can see a few important points: the stack is much higher meaning the 
> bars are already starting higher. Even with an effective top tube increase 
> of 15mm, the reach is only 1mm more on the 54.5. Easily mitigated with a 
> stem. Seat is going to land on the same axis with either size, so fit 
> should be very similar with less seatpost and stem showing. 
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
>> photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
>> accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the same and you're 
>> happy with the pullback bars on the Chev. Conclusion: the Homer may be a 
>> bit big for you, which is why the reach to drops is too long. I agree with 
>> Riv that a 7cm stem should help but I'm concerned that you'll still find 
>> the Homer kinda big-ish. 
>>
>> Joe Bernard, who fits a 55 Chev with pullbacks and would need a 51 Homer 
>> for drops 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:34:08 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used 
 to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
 back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike 
 fit 
 sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
 reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
 "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
 with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
 se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
 rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
 adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
 comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. 
 I 
 was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
 thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
 a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 

 On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Here are a few thoughts:
>
> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
> time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so 
> they 
> can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for 
> them. 
>  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is 
> that 
> a reasonable assumption?
>
> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves 
> are usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you 
> had 
> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>
> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you 
> currently an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance 
> athlete?  Do you want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you 
> intend to have?  
>
> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
>> months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
>> this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
>> city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, 

Re: [RBW] Re: ISO 54 cm Roadini

2024-02-08 Thread Chris Fly
HI Doug,

I would really reconsider Will's advice.. In my experience, Riv bikes ride 
big.. the Bleriot Grant put me on back in the day always felt too large and 
the AHH I got from my Dad doesn't feel any too large (with drop bars) for 
me.. I say that as it should have been sized for my Dad and he was a good 
2" shorter than me.. at 5'9" (31" PBH and 68cm seat height normally), I 
wouldn't consider anything larger than a 50cm and I don't think that will 
feel small by any means.. 

BTW- anyone have a 50cm Roadini they want to move on? :) 

Chris 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:05:25 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:

> Will from Rivendell would recommend a 50 for you as he did for me. I'm 
> 5'10" (almost) with an 83 PBH. My saddle height is 71.5 cm. But, I'm still 
> thinking I would prefer a 54.
> Doug
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:21:17 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the link, I saw that one as well, unfortunately too big.
>>
>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:51:21 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:
>>
>>> I was just thinking I had seen one recently but it’s a 57. Nonetheless 
>>> here’s the link:
>>>
>>> [image: 418748400_7019085838173016_3719984432333502610_n.jpg]
>>>
>>> Rivendell Leo Roadini 
>>> 
>>> facebook.com 
>>> 
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Feb 1, 2024, at 13:30, Doug H.  wrote:
>>>
>>> Judd,
>>>
>>> I was in the same boat recently, actually still am. Can I ask what your 
>>> height and PBH is for reference?
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:20:19 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:
>>>
 Hello fine folks 

 I am looking for a 54cm Roadini, no preferences for year or color. 
  Prefer complete but open to frame as well, thanks.

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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini Build - Mix of Modern and Retro

2024-01-21 Thread Chris Fly
I can see that.. 

Looking forward to the build! 

Chris

On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 3:04:04 PM UTC-8 Jay wrote:

> I hear you 'fourflys', I was undecided before going with the DT and the 
> RRSL levers.  My Fargo has brifters and on the mixed-surface, often 
> technical trails I ride, it's very handy.  My road bike has brifters.  I 
> decided I wanted to try something different, plus I like the idea of them 
> being friction, and the simplicity of them (oh, and the lower cost, as I 
> didn't have brifters on hand, like I did other parts).  I had DT shifters 
> on a bike I built up around 10 years ago and liked them.  This bike will 
> mainly be ridden on paved roads, and occasional gravel roads and rail 
> trails (80/20), so I'm sure it will be fine.  But once I ride it, we'll see 
> how I adjust.
>
> On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 5:06:45 PM UTC-5 four...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Just curious, if you are using 11sp, why not use integrated 
>> shifters/levers? To each their own for sure, but I can't imagine DT 
>> shifters on a mixed-surface trail unless it's really smooth.. heck, I don't 
>> even care for bar-ends on a trail.. but those RRL levers are super nice! 
>>
>> I'm leaning hard into a Roadini that I may put a Campy 10 Triple group I 
>> have on it.. 
>>
>> Chris 
>>
>> On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 10:33:55 AM UTC-8 Jay wrote:
>>
>>> First post here!  I've been reading some of the threads and this sounds 
>>> like a good place...my new happy place ;-)
>>>
>>> I ordered the dark gold Roadini (57) from the only shop in Canada that 
>>> sells Riv (C Cycles) and will be picking it up in a few weeks when I'll 
>>> be visiting Montreal.
>>>
>>> Looking for this to be a project bike, that evolves over time.  For now 
>>> though, I had a lot of new / lightly used parts on hand, so I'll be using 
>>> those and having the bike shop supply the rest (including some handbill 
>>> wheels for some lightly used 43mm GKSS tires I'm using on my Fargo in the 
>>> winter).  Build will be Shimano 11sp, with DT shifters and Tektro RRL brake 
>>> levers, and Tektro brakes.
>>>
>>> Purpose of the bike is all-road (where I live, a lot of that is paved, 
>>> but there are gravel roads further out), but will not be used much on local 
>>> mixed-surface trails (where the Fargo excels).  My current road bike will 
>>> be jealous, but I'm not kicking her to the curb just yet!
>>>
>>> Photos to come in February.  
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini Build - Mix of Modern and Retro

2024-01-21 Thread Chris Fly
Just curious, if you are using 11sp, why not use integrated 
shifters/levers? To each their own for sure, but I can't imagine DT 
shifters on a mixed-surface trail unless it's really smooth.. heck, I don't 
even care for bar-ends on a trail.. but those RRL levers are super nice! 

I'm leaning hard into a Roadini that I may put a Campy 10 Triple group I 
have on it.. 

Chris 

On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 10:33:55 AM UTC-8 Jay wrote:

> First post here!  I've been reading some of the threads and this sounds 
> like a good place...my new happy place ;-)
>
> I ordered the dark gold Roadini (57) from the only shop in Canada that 
> sells Riv (C Cycles) and will be picking it up in a few weeks when I'll 
> be visiting Montreal.
>
> Looking for this to be a project bike, that evolves over time.  For now 
> though, I had a lot of new / lightly used parts on hand, so I'll be using 
> those and having the bike shop supply the rest (including some handbill 
> wheels for some lightly used 43mm GKSS tires I'm using on my Fargo in the 
> winter).  Build will be Shimano 11sp, with DT shifters and Tektro RRL brake 
> levers, and Tektro brakes.
>
> Purpose of the bike is all-road (where I live, a lot of that is paved, but 
> there are gravel roads further out), but will not be used much on local 
> mixed-surface trails (where the Fargo excels).  My current road bike will 
> be jealous, but I'm not kicking her to the curb just yet!
>
> Photos to come in February.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Leo Roadini on Brevet--SFR Del Puerto Canyon 200k ride report

2024-01-17 Thread Chris Fly
is, 
>>> in my opinion.  The Leo Roadini is an evolved road bike.  It seemed to me 
>>> you want a traditional or mainstream road bike, just one that takes wide 
>>> tires and maybe says Rivendell on it.  In other words, you want a Roadeo, 
>>> which is a lot more of a traditional or mainstream road racing bike that 
>>> takes wide-ish tires.  
>>>
>>> A big part of my "presence" on this board is to counterpoint the 
>>> contrarians.  
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 8:27:44 AM UTC-8 four...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> edit to my above reply- just read through Bill's post when he initially 
>>>> built up Leo.. good stuff and good comparisons.. 
>>>>
>>>> Thanks! 
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 8:10:08 AM UTC-8 Chris Fly wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Bill,
>>>>>
>>>>> Good Stuff! I had pretty much written a Leo off as I really couldn't 
>>>>> find much feedback on it to be honest.. I got a few replies to my 
>>>>> question, 
>>>>> but not a lot.. your report has it back on my radar! 
>>>>>
>>>>> Having been a big supporter of the Black Mountain Cycles brand and 
>>>>> having had a V1 Road and MC, I'd be curious how you would compare the BMC 
>>>>> Road and your Leo (in drop bar mode)? 
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Chris 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 7:18:17 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I posted a photo of the drop bar build that I had on that bike in 
>>>>>> 2018.  This thread links to that thread, and in that thread I posted a 
>>>>>> photo.  You should be able to find it. It doesn't look like I made a 
>>>>>> Flickr 
>>>>>> album for that build so the detailed build photos are buried. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:06:34 PM UTC-8 brenton...@gmail.com 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Got a pic of your setup? I'm building a roadini at the moment and 
>>>>>>> love seeing others' builds. Would love to see it in it's brevet mode if 
>>>>>>> it 
>>>>>>> has multiple modes.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Sunday, November 4, 2018 at 7:32:05 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Yesterday was the Del Puerto Canyon 200k brevet, hosted by San 
>>>>>>>> Francisco Randonneurs. Luckily for me the day remained conflict-free 
>>>>>>>> and I 
>>>>>>>> was able to do it.  It was the 26th RUSA event of my career of 200k or 
>>>>>>>> greater, and I logged my best time ever: 8 hours 18 minutes.  
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I woke up a little earlier than I needed to, at 4:45AM.  I was able 
>>>>>>>> to pack light because of the amazing weather forecast.  The Del Puerto 
>>>>>>>> Canyon 200k starts and finishes in Pleasanton, CA, just south of Mount 
>>>>>>>> Diablo.  The ride goes out and over the hills that make up the 
>>>>>>>> Altamont 
>>>>>>>> Pass,meanders through the flat farm roads around Tracy and Wesley, and 
>>>>>>>> then 
>>>>>>>> returns out and over the same hills via Del Puerto Canyon.  The 
>>>>>>>> forecast 
>>>>>>>> called for temps in the low 50s to start and venturing into the high 
>>>>>>>> 70s in 
>>>>>>>> some places.  So I wore bib-shorts, a light base layer, short sleeve 
>>>>>>>> jersey, arm warmers and a reflective vest.  The ride started at 8AM, 
>>>>>>>> which 
>>>>>>>> would be light enough to not require any lighting.  Sunset would come 
>>>>>>>> at 
>>>>>>>> about 6PM, so I did bring lights just in case I went over 10 hours.  I 
>>>>>>>> carried a little Cygolite Dart (from Riv), a battery taillight, and 
>>>>>>>> two 
>>>>>>>> elastic head lamps that cou

[RBW] Re: Leo Roadini on Brevet--SFR Del Puerto Canyon 200k ride report

2024-01-17 Thread Chris Fly
makes sense! and I totally get what you mean.. while I certainly wear "kit" 
when riding.. my days of wearing stuff that has logos all over it are 
mostly gone.. I do have a couple of classic Salsa jerseys I still like to 
wear.. and i also have some more MTBish stuff for those days when I want to 
be a bit more "under the radar".. :) 

thanks Bill! 

On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 9:23:44 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

"A big part of my "presence" on this board is to counterpoint the 
contrarians."

...and what I mean by that is that there are a number of people who 
badmouth the Leo because they bought it, thinking it was a racing bike, 
wanted it to be a racing bike, and then got mad that it isn't a racing 
bike.  It's totally fine to not like a bike, but it's a little lame to say 
that a row boat is crap because it isn't a motor boat.  

Anyway, some of the voices badmouthing the Leo for not being a race bike 
went so far as to claim that the Leo couldn't be ridden fast.  Those 
threads that you read were my reports that even though the Leo is not a 
racing bike, it still can be ridden fast.  That period, 2017 - 2019 was 
when I was in my best racing shape, because I was coaching a high school 
racing team.  That anecdote comes up a lot.  "It doesn't matter which bike 
that pro rides, because at that level it's the rider".  Several "voices" on 
these boards sort of anticipate that by claiming "I need ultralight tubing 
because I'm so weak and slow, I need all the help I can get", etc.  In 
those threads you read, I was trying to make clear that you can get a lot 
out of a Leo Roadini if you want to.  

I think the best summary was that I felt a little weird in full-kit on my 
Leo.  I felt a little weird NOT being in full kit on my Black Mountain. 
 That's what I mean by "traditional racing bike" vs "evolved road bike". 

Bill Lindsay

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[RBW] Re: Leo Roadini on Brevet--SFR Del Puerto Canyon 200k ride report

2024-01-17 Thread Chris Fly
fair enough, I can see why you got that from what I had put in my initial 
inquiry.. 

I'm certainly NOT looking for a race bike, I already have a couple of those 
kind of bikes, if that is what I'm looking for.. what I don't want is a 
bike that feels "heavy" or "sluggish" when being ridden.. I think we all 
know what that means.. of course, much of that can often be attributed to 
heavy wheels/tires, but a 35# bike HAS to feel heavier than 21# bike to 
ride, either accelerating from a stop or on a 5% extended climb.. (using 
these weight numbers just to illustrate a point)

But back to my search for info- yes I like Rivs, every since around 2008.. 
yes, I want a bike that will take a larger tire.. and yes, I would like the 
bike to not feel like a pig when I ride it. I generally like to have my 
bars at or even a bit above my saddle, so a Riv certainly ticks that box 
normally. 

Appreciate it! 
Chris 

On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 9:14:23 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> fourflys wanted feedback on maybe buying a Leo.  
>
> My general impression of your search for info is that you want it to be a 
> racing bike that takes wide tires.  That's not what the Leo Roadini is, in 
> my opinion.  The Leo Roadini is an evolved road bike.  It seemed to me you 
> want a traditional or mainstream road bike, just one that takes wide tires 
> and maybe says Rivendell on it.  In other words, you want a Roadeo, which 
> is a lot more of a traditional or mainstream road racing bike that takes 
> wide-ish tires.  
>
> A big part of my "presence" on this board is to counterpoint the 
> contrarians.  
>
> On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 8:27:44 AM UTC-8 four...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> edit to my above reply- just read through Bill's post when he initially 
>> built up Leo.. good stuff and good comparisons.. 
>>
>> Thanks! 
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 8:10:08 AM UTC-8 Chris Fly wrote:
>>
>>> Bill,
>>>
>>> Good Stuff! I had pretty much written a Leo off as I really couldn't 
>>> find much feedback on it to be honest.. I got a few replies to my question, 
>>> but not a lot.. your report has it back on my radar! 
>>>
>>> Having been a big supporter of the Black Mountain Cycles brand and 
>>> having had a V1 Road and MC, I'd be curious how you would compare the BMC 
>>> Road and your Leo (in drop bar mode)? 
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Chris 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 7:18:17 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> I posted a photo of the drop bar build that I had on that bike in 2018. 
>>>>  This thread links to that thread, and in that thread I posted a photo. 
>>>>  You should be able to find it. It doesn't look like I made a Flickr album 
>>>> for that build so the detailed build photos are buried. 
>>>>
>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:06:34 PM UTC-8 brenton...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Got a pic of your setup? I'm building a roadini at the moment and love 
>>>>> seeing others' builds. Would love to see it in it's brevet mode if it has 
>>>>> multiple modes.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sunday, November 4, 2018 at 7:32:05 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Yesterday was the Del Puerto Canyon 200k brevet, hosted by San 
>>>>>> Francisco Randonneurs. Luckily for me the day remained conflict-free and 
>>>>>> I 
>>>>>> was able to do it.  It was the 26th RUSA event of my career of 200k or 
>>>>>> greater, and I logged my best time ever: 8 hours 18 minutes.  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I woke up a little earlier than I needed to, at 4:45AM.  I was able 
>>>>>> to pack light because of the amazing weather forecast.  The Del Puerto 
>>>>>> Canyon 200k starts and finishes in Pleasanton, CA, just south of Mount 
>>>>>> Diablo.  The ride goes out and over the hills that make up the Altamont 
>>>>>> Pass,meanders through the flat farm roads around Tracy and Wesley, and 
>>>>>> then 
>>>>>> returns out and over the same hills via Del Puerto Canyon.  The forecast 
>>>>>> called for temps in the low 50s to start and venturing into the high 70s 
>>>>>> in 
>>>>>> some places.  So I wore bib-shorts, a light base layer, short sleeve 
>>>>>> jersey, arm warmers and a reflective v

[RBW] Re: Leo Roadini on Brevet--SFR Del Puerto Canyon 200k ride report

2024-01-17 Thread Chris Fly
edit to my above reply- just read through Bill's post when he initially 
built up Leo.. good stuff and good comparisons.. 

Thanks! 

On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 8:10:08 AM UTC-8 Chris Fly wrote:

> Bill,
>
> Good Stuff! I had pretty much written a Leo off as I really couldn't find 
> much feedback on it to be honest.. I got a few replies to my question, but 
> not a lot.. your report has it back on my radar! 
>
> Having been a big supporter of the Black Mountain Cycles brand and having 
> had a V1 Road and MC, I'd be curious how you would compare the BMC Road and 
> your Leo (in drop bar mode)? 
>
> Thanks,
> Chris 
>
> On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 7:18:17 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I posted a photo of the drop bar build that I had on that bike in 2018. 
>>  This thread links to that thread, and in that thread I posted a photo. 
>>  You should be able to find it. It doesn't look like I made a Flickr album 
>> for that build so the detailed build photos are buried. 
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:06:34 PM UTC-8 brenton...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Got a pic of your setup? I'm building a roadini at the moment and love 
>>> seeing others' builds. Would love to see it in it's brevet mode if it has 
>>> multiple modes.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 4, 2018 at 7:32:05 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yesterday was the Del Puerto Canyon 200k brevet, hosted by San 
>>>> Francisco Randonneurs. Luckily for me the day remained conflict-free and I 
>>>> was able to do it.  It was the 26th RUSA event of my career of 200k or 
>>>> greater, and I logged my best time ever: 8 hours 18 minutes.  
>>>>
>>>> I woke up a little earlier than I needed to, at 4:45AM.  I was able to 
>>>> pack light because of the amazing weather forecast.  The Del Puerto Canyon 
>>>> 200k starts and finishes in Pleasanton, CA, just south of Mount Diablo.  
>>>> The ride goes out and over the hills that make up the Altamont 
>>>> Pass,meanders through the flat farm roads around Tracy and Wesley, and 
>>>> then 
>>>> returns out and over the same hills via Del Puerto Canyon.  The forecast 
>>>> called for temps in the low 50s to start and venturing into the high 70s 
>>>> in 
>>>> some places.  So I wore bib-shorts, a light base layer, short sleeve 
>>>> jersey, arm warmers and a reflective vest.  The ride started at 8AM, which 
>>>> would be light enough to not require any lighting.  Sunset would come at 
>>>> about 6PM, so I did bring lights just in case I went over 10 hours.  I 
>>>> carried a little Cygolite Dart (from Riv), a battery taillight, and two 
>>>> elastic head lamps that could serve as backup head or tail lights. I also 
>>>> carried a USB battery stick in case I needed to boost my phone, Wahoo, or 
>>>> headlight.  In my Ruthworks rackless Brevet bag went those lighting bits, 
>>>> a 
>>>> few bars, and a travel size sunscreen for when the armwarmers came off and 
>>>> the guns came out.  I made coffee and breakfast, got lubed up and dressed 
>>>> and I was a good 25 minutes ahead of schedule.  I had planned to catch the 
>>>> 6:20AM Bart train, and it's a 5-minute bomb down the hill to get to the 
>>>> Bart station.  I went ahead and decided to grab the 6:00AM train instead 
>>>> and left early, and still had to wait on the platform for several minutes. 
>>>>  
>>>> The Fremont Train takes me down past Oakland to the transfer station at 
>>>> Bay 
>>>> Fair, where I transfer to a Pleasanton train to head over the hills in 
>>>> Castro Valley out to the start. There was a delay due to track repair, and 
>>>> a chilly wait for my Pleasanton train, but I was still at the start with 
>>>> my 
>>>> card in plenty of time.  
>>>>
>>>> The turnout for this event was huge; the biggest ever for this event 
>>>> which was first run in 2011.  ~150 randos had signed up, partially because 
>>>> of the great weather forecast, partially because there is always an uptick 
>>>> in participation the year before a PBP year, and partially because this is 
>>>> SFRs flattest 200k, with "only" 5300 ft of climbing. It was a huge bunch 
>>>> that started off. I didn't want to get sucked up with any of the 'too 
>>>> fast' 
>>>> groups, so I looked for fami

[RBW] Re: Leo Roadini on Brevet--SFR Del Puerto Canyon 200k ride report

2024-01-17 Thread Chris Fly
Bill,

Good Stuff! I had pretty much written a Leo off as I really couldn't find 
much feedback on it to be honest.. I got a few replies to my question, but 
not a lot.. your report has it back on my radar! 

Having been a big supporter of the Black Mountain Cycles brand and having 
had a V1 Road and MC, I'd be curious how you would compare the BMC Road and 
your Leo (in drop bar mode)? 

Thanks,
Chris 

On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 7:18:17 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> I posted a photo of the drop bar build that I had on that bike in 2018. 
>  This thread links to that thread, and in that thread I posted a photo. 
>  You should be able to find it. It doesn't look like I made a Flickr album 
> for that build so the detailed build photos are buried. 
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:06:34 PM UTC-8 brenton...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Got a pic of your setup? I'm building a roadini at the moment and love 
>> seeing others' builds. Would love to see it in it's brevet mode if it has 
>> multiple modes.
>>
>> On Sunday, November 4, 2018 at 7:32:05 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Yesterday was the Del Puerto Canyon 200k brevet, hosted by San Francisco 
>>> Randonneurs. Luckily for me the day remained conflict-free and I was able 
>>> to do it.  It was the 26th RUSA event of my career of 200k or greater, and 
>>> I logged my best time ever: 8 hours 18 minutes.  
>>>
>>> I woke up a little earlier than I needed to, at 4:45AM.  I was able to 
>>> pack light because of the amazing weather forecast.  The Del Puerto Canyon 
>>> 200k starts and finishes in Pleasanton, CA, just south of Mount Diablo.  
>>> The ride goes out and over the hills that make up the Altamont 
>>> Pass,meanders through the flat farm roads around Tracy and Wesley, and then 
>>> returns out and over the same hills via Del Puerto Canyon.  The forecast 
>>> called for temps in the low 50s to start and venturing into the high 70s in 
>>> some places.  So I wore bib-shorts, a light base layer, short sleeve 
>>> jersey, arm warmers and a reflective vest.  The ride started at 8AM, which 
>>> would be light enough to not require any lighting.  Sunset would come at 
>>> about 6PM, so I did bring lights just in case I went over 10 hours.  I 
>>> carried a little Cygolite Dart (from Riv), a battery taillight, and two 
>>> elastic head lamps that could serve as backup head or tail lights. I also 
>>> carried a USB battery stick in case I needed to boost my phone, Wahoo, or 
>>> headlight.  In my Ruthworks rackless Brevet bag went those lighting bits, a 
>>> few bars, and a travel size sunscreen for when the armwarmers came off and 
>>> the guns came out.  I made coffee and breakfast, got lubed up and dressed 
>>> and I was a good 25 minutes ahead of schedule.  I had planned to catch the 
>>> 6:20AM Bart train, and it's a 5-minute bomb down the hill to get to the 
>>> Bart station.  I went ahead and decided to grab the 6:00AM train instead 
>>> and left early, and still had to wait on the platform for several minutes.  
>>> The Fremont Train takes me down past Oakland to the transfer station at Bay 
>>> Fair, where I transfer to a Pleasanton train to head over the hills in 
>>> Castro Valley out to the start. There was a delay due to track repair, and 
>>> a chilly wait for my Pleasanton train, but I was still at the start with my 
>>> card in plenty of time.  
>>>
>>> The turnout for this event was huge; the biggest ever for this event 
>>> which was first run in 2011.  ~150 randos had signed up, partially because 
>>> of the great weather forecast, partially because there is always an uptick 
>>> in participation the year before a PBP year, and partially because this is 
>>> SFRs flattest 200k, with "only" 5300 ft of climbing. It was a huge bunch 
>>> that started off. I didn't want to get sucked up with any of the 'too fast' 
>>> groups, so I looked for familiar SFR riders who I knew were in my time-zone 
>>> and hung with them for the first ~15 miles through the urban streets of 
>>> Pleasanton and Livermore before the first climb began. That first climb was 
>>> around 1200ft, with a gradually increasing grade all along its length, 
>>> topping off at around 10% at the peak. This did a good job of stretching 
>>> out the riders, and there was essentially no traffic so it was a great time 
>>> to move up. I was feeling good, so I left the familiar group behind and 
>>> passed a lot of slower riders. I was aiming for a decent time, and one way 
>>> to make a good time is to not waste a lot of time at controls. The first 
>>> control threatened to be a time sink if you arrive within a few minutes of 
>>> a lot of other riders, because there would be only one volunteer to stamp 
>>> your card, while a second volunteer checks your name on the roster. I was 
>>> motivated to move up if I could, and I found a great rhythm on Leo. 
>>> Checking my Strava, the majority of the climb is captured in the "Tesla 

Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

2024-01-14 Thread Chris Fly
if you just look at the numbers, you can go down a long rabbit hole and 
certainly justify a heavy bike.. I agree 1mph isn't anything.. what you 
can't justify with numbers is what a heavy bike *feels* like when riding.. 
some heavier bikes certainly can "ride light", but many don't in my 
experience.. same with heavier wheels or tires, my 650b Hilsen with 
Rich-built wheels and 42mm Compass tires do NOT feel like they spin up as 
well as my Serotta with HED Belgium tires with 28mm Vittoria Corsas on it.. 

I would never begrudge someone riding what they want to ride, but often, 
heavy is just that.. heavy..

On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 4:49:18 PM UTC-8 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ 
wrote:

> During a appearance on The Opiniated Cyclist, Richard Schwinn stated the 
> following:  Reducing the bike weight by 12 lbm, increases your speed by 1 
> mph, given the same power input from testing Schwinn did.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 12:11:36 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> 
>> It will always have a dyno hub. I just can’t give up that kind of 
>> practicality. I didn’t know Paul components would save me any weight but 
>> I’m glad if they do. My Velo Orange levers were pretty feather-light 
>> already though. 
>>
>> I probably do have the Platy set up as light as I dare, save the 
>> drivetrain stuff from White Industries. And Richard has a good point that 
>> all that money would only save me a third of a pound.
>>
>> On Jan 14, 2024, at 8:40 AM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>
>> Does the raspberry Platy still have a dyno hub? If so that would be a 
>> big gain as far as weight loss and lessening drag. Otherwise you have it 
>> set up fairly light from what I remember about your posts. Paul components 
>> will sure help shave some grams.
>>
>>
>> When weight is brought up the first thing Grant would say is take weight 
>> off the engine. Well I just took a massive amount of weight off the engine 
>> so I feel that I am now free and clear to be a weight weenie about the 
>> bike. :)
>>
>> -- 
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>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

2024-01-14 Thread Chris Fly
I think weight matters and one of the main reasons I LOVE looking at the 
Riv site and Riv bikes. but currently only own my Dad's AHH that was given 
to me when he passed.. I would never quibble over a couple pounds here or 
there, but reading through this thread and seeing the OP's 
frame/fork/wheels weigh 18# (if I read it correctly) is insane to me.. I 
fully believe a 15# weight difference WILL make a fairly big difference on 
a ride, esp one with hills.. at least for how I like to ride. I got my 
first Riv back in 2008ish and Grant certainly wasn't worrying about weight 
then as my Bleriot I had was certainly overbuilt for sure, but it wasn't 
too crazy.. 

Anyway, I'm certain I'm the outlier here in my thinking and that's ok, I 
still love looking at the classic Rivs and enjoy riding my Dad's AHH. 

Chris in Sonoma County 

On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 7:49:52 AM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Which circles back to original post. Having disassembled my Silver crank I 
> have a new appreciation for it. It’s quite beautifully manufactured and now 
> lighter thanks to the aluminum chainring. White Industries square taper 
> crank in comparison is also beautiful & MUSA. But, complete with chainrings 
> weighs 624 grams & cost $521.00. Silver crank complete with chainguard 
> weighs 781 grams & cost $280.00. So for your extra $241.00 you save 157 
> grams or .346 lb.
> At the end of the day (kind of hate that phrase, not sure why?) as Riv 
> owners our frames are heavy especially in my case (Clem & Gus) as are our 
> wheels particularly if you are running larger tires & dynamo hubs. That 
> leaves the remainder of the components where any marginal gains are 
> expensive.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 14, 2024, at 9:09 AM, Sarah Carlson  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Leah,  now you will probably chime in with me and Joe on the conversations 
> when we discuss how a crank can also be beautiful. Because once you 
> recognize it you won't be able to unsee it!
>
> Sarah
>
> On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 4:04:25 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> You guys are going to make me want to fall down the rabbit hole again and 
>> find little ways to lighten up my raspberry Platypus. And I have now just 
>> practically sent an invitation for people to tell me that weight doesn’t 
>> matter and I should think about the engine (me) and so on  but not even 
>> they can discourage me! I can have one bike to be irrational about.
>>
>> I did do a version of this of the Formerly Mine Clem. I got aluminum bars 
>> and new wheels and tires, got rid of the basket rack and it did make a 
>> difference. I was riding that thing for all purposes, including for fast 
>> exercise kind of rides. Dumb, but whatever. 
>>
>> I don’t know about this White Industries stuff but I suppose I’ll go read 
>> about them now.
>> Thanks a lot you guys. Yikes.
>> Leah
>>
>> On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 6:13:09 AM UTC-5 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> This thread made me finally weigh my 59cm Susie and it came in 15.9kg. 
>>> which is more than I thought tbh. It would be 17kg normally I guess but 
>>> currently doesn't have front rack and basket.
>>> There are a lot of places I could save weight I suppose. I have straight 
>>> guage spokes, and b17 flyer, dyno with rear light. The R14 weighs over 
>>> 800grams, the old M565 LX hub is hefty...
>>> Oh dear...
>>>
>> -- 
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> 
> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini Feedback

2024-01-11 Thread Chris Fly
Hi Maggie,

I sent you an email with some questions. 

Thanks!
Chris 

On Monday, January 8, 2024 at 4:27:19 PM UTC-8 Maggie Zhou wrote:

> I have contemplated selling my 50cm roadini that has a modern brifter 
> build (all Shimano 105). It's the first production batch circa 2017, so 
> only has spacing for ~35s, and I've personally never succeeding at running 
> larger than 28s with fenders + 105 mid reach brakes. It kinda sounds like 
> this wouldn't fit your desires anyway, since you want to run wider tires. 
> Email me directly if you want to talk? I haven't really thought about 
> pricing...it has felt a little extravagant to sell to just turn around and 
> buy a new Roadini for the wider tires.
>
>  I don't keep good track of my rides, but I have at least 10k miles on it. 
> It's a great bike, and I can't imagine wanting anything different if I 
> wanted a fast steel road bike. 
> On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 1:22:36 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Oh shoot, I didn't realize the Crust was 650b in smaller sizes. Velo 
>> Orange Rando frameset <https://velo-orange.com/products/rando-frameset> 
>> is the only other production road frame that comes to mind, but I haven't 
>> read/heard much about it's ride quality. The modular dropouts are a really 
>> neat idea though. 
>>
>> On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 11:32:26 AM UTC-6 eddietheflay wrote:
>>
>>> As I wrote earlier and it looks like Ron is going in this direction:
>>>
>>> " I'd like to see a Columbus Spirit tubed frameset just like the 
>>> Malocchio with tigs, slanted top tube, threaded fork, and a nice powder 
>>> coat at a reasonable price. Kinda like a BMW 2002 from the olden days." I'd 
>>> want threaded fork cuz I need the rise offered by long quill stems.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 9:27:46 AM UTC-8 four...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A Riv may not be the bike for me this time.. I'm also considering a 
>>>> Litespeed Arenberg (the new one, seems like some good numbers) or maybe 
>>>> even splash out on a custom Fitz or Sycip here in Sonoma County.. 
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 9:23:21 AM UTC-8 Chris Fly wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> the issue with the Crust for me is the three smallest sizes seem to be 
>>>>> 650b and I don't really want a 650b bike.. plus the brake thing might bug 
>>>>> me if I did want to run larger tires in the future.. thanks Eddie! 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 7:38:49 PM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have the same brakes front and rear and there is no issue with 35mm 
>>>>>> tires. The OP wants a quick road bike so he'd  be fine too.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 7:21:46 PM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The big minus behind the crust is that they messed up the 
>>>>>>> manufacturing so it takes different brakes front and rear which is 
>>>>>>> bizarre. 
>>>>>>> Even more bizarre is that it requires smaller tires on the back than on 
>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>> front. Unless you pay to have someone move the brake bridge (and then 
>>>>>>> do 
>>>>>>> the repaint) that kind of stuff would always be nagging at the back of 
>>>>>>> my 
>>>>>>> mind and cause me not to enjoy the bike.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Fri, Jan 5, 2024 at 7:14 PM eddietheflay  
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Crust Malocchio. Real lugs, real lightweight tubing, decent 
>>>>>>>> clearance. Some things in its favor. Definitely not the looker that 
>>>>>>>> most 
>>>>>>>> Rivs are and without sloping top tube = good or not so? We could put 
>>>>>>>> some 
>>>>>>>> blocks on my pedals and you could try it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 6:05:49 PM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The A Homer Hilsen comes with an 80mm drop, which could be one 
>>>>>>>>> reason you like it over the Roadini. But the Hilsen probably won't 
>>>>>>>>> fit in 
>>>>>>>>> my tr

Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini Feedback

2024-01-06 Thread Chris Fly
A Riv may not be the bike for me this time.. I'm also considering a 
Litespeed Arenberg (the new one, seems like some good numbers) or maybe 
even splash out on a custom Fitz or Sycip here in Sonoma County.. 

On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 9:23:21 AM UTC-8 Chris Fly wrote:

> the issue with the Crust for me is the three smallest sizes seem to be 
> 650b and I don't really want a 650b bike.. plus the brake thing might bug 
> me if I did want to run larger tires in the future.. thanks Eddie! 
>
> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 7:38:49 PM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:
>
>> I have the same brakes front and rear and there is no issue with 35mm 
>> tires. The OP wants a quick road bike so he'd  be fine too.
>>
>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 7:21:46 PM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> The big minus behind the crust is that they messed up the manufacturing 
>>> so it takes different brakes front and rear which is bizarre. Even more 
>>> bizarre is that it requires smaller tires on the back than on the front. 
>>> Unless you pay to have someone move the brake bridge (and then do the 
>>> repaint) that kind of stuff would always be nagging at the back of my mind 
>>> and cause me not to enjoy the bike.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jan 5, 2024 at 7:14 PM eddietheflay  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Crust Malocchio. Real lugs, real lightweight tubing, decent clearance. 
>>>> Some things in its favor. Definitely not the looker that most Rivs are and 
>>>> without sloping top tube = good or not so? We could put some blocks on my 
>>>> pedals and you could try it.
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 6:05:49 PM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The A Homer Hilsen comes with an 80mm drop, which could be one reason 
>>>>> you like it over the Roadini. But the Hilsen probably won't fit in my 
>>>>> travel bike box.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Jan 5, 2024, 17:54 Stephen Durfee  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Chris - I got my Roadini just over a year ago, a complete bike 
>>>>>> purchased from a CL listing in South Carolina that I had shipped to 
>>>>>> Napa. I 
>>>>>> wanted a RIv so bad, and a "road bike" in particular, but was (perhaps 
>>>>>> like 
>>>>>> you), hoping to save a few bucks on a pre-owned model. I had previously 
>>>>>> visited HQ and talked with Will, who acknowledged that I was on the cusp 
>>>>>> between 54 and 57, and that either could be a good fit...I later 
>>>>>> concluded 
>>>>>> that I should have gone with the larger size - the one I got was a 54 in 
>>>>>> "Old Blue", an earlier model which would not accept the larger tire size 
>>>>>> that the newer models do.  I liked the bike well enough that I 
>>>>>> considered 
>>>>>> investing in a brand new frame (that Gold is hot!) but also realized 
>>>>>> that I 
>>>>>> didn't love the components that came with that bike in the first place.  
>>>>>> And so, since I would have been essentially starting from scratch,  it 
>>>>>> didn't take much convincing to grab that Homer frame that came up 
>>>>>> locally, 
>>>>>> and then build it up with the parts that I wanted. Now I have a bike 
>>>>>> that I 
>>>>>> love, love, love, in a size that fits!  I kept it lean, with some 
>>>>>> Noodles 
>>>>>> and 33mm Jack Browns, no racks and only a spare tire tool kit. The 
>>>>>> Roadini 
>>>>>> felt good, but the Homer feels great! And while I'm the first to 
>>>>>> acknowledge that I know nothing about BB drop, or could comment on 
>>>>>> flexiness, or even know how much it weighs...I feel fast when I'm on it. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If in your heart, you want an orange 50, I'd say just wait. But 
>>>>>> you're close enough to Walnut Creek to go have a spin on a new bike and 
>>>>>> see 
>>>>>> what you think. The newsletter that came out today says they discovered 
>>>>>> one 
>>>>>> Gold 50 in stock...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:23:50 AM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It's way more flexy/comfy than my Custom Ti bike, which friends 
>>>

Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini Feedback

2024-01-06 Thread Chris Fly
the issue with the Crust for me is the three smallest sizes seem to be 650b 
and I don't really want a 650b bike.. plus the brake thing might bug me if 
I did want to run larger tires in the future.. thanks Eddie! 

On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 7:38:49 PM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:

> I have the same brakes front and rear and there is no issue with 35mm 
> tires. The OP wants a quick road bike so he'd  be fine too.
>
> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 7:21:46 PM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> The big minus behind the crust is that they messed up the manufacturing 
>> so it takes different brakes front and rear which is bizarre. Even more 
>> bizarre is that it requires smaller tires on the back than on the front. 
>> Unless you pay to have someone move the brake bridge (and then do the 
>> repaint) that kind of stuff would always be nagging at the back of my mind 
>> and cause me not to enjoy the bike.
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 5, 2024 at 7:14 PM eddietheflay  wrote:
>>
>>> Crust Malocchio. Real lugs, real lightweight tubing, decent clearance. 
>>> Some things in its favor. Definitely not the looker that most Rivs are and 
>>> without sloping top tube = good or not so? We could put some blocks on my 
>>> pedals and you could try it.
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 6:05:49 PM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 The A Homer Hilsen comes with an 80mm drop, which could be one reason 
 you like it over the Roadini. But the Hilsen probably won't fit in my 
 travel bike box.

 On Fri, Jan 5, 2024, 17:54 Stephen Durfee  wrote:

> Chris - I got my Roadini just over a year ago, a complete bike 
> purchased from a CL listing in South Carolina that I had shipped to Napa. 
> I 
> wanted a RIv so bad, and a "road bike" in particular, but was (perhaps 
> like 
> you), hoping to save a few bucks on a pre-owned model. I had previously 
> visited HQ and talked with Will, who acknowledged that I was on the cusp 
> between 54 and 57, and that either could be a good fit...I later 
> concluded 
> that I should have gone with the larger size - the one I got was a 54 in 
> "Old Blue", an earlier model which would not accept the larger tire size 
> that the newer models do.  I liked the bike well enough that I considered 
> investing in a brand new frame (that Gold is hot!) but also realized that 
> I 
> didn't love the components that came with that bike in the first place.  
> And so, since I would have been essentially starting from scratch,  it 
> didn't take much convincing to grab that Homer frame that came up 
> locally, 
> and then build it up with the parts that I wanted. Now I have a bike that 
> I 
> love, love, love, in a size that fits!  I kept it lean, with some Noodles 
> and 33mm Jack Browns, no racks and only a spare tire tool kit. The 
> Roadini 
> felt good, but the Homer feels great! And while I'm the first to 
> acknowledge that I know nothing about BB drop, or could comment on 
> flexiness, or even know how much it weighs...I feel fast when I'm on it. 
>
> If in your heart, you want an orange 50, I'd say just wait. But you're 
> close enough to Walnut Creek to go have a spin on a new bike and see what 
> you think. The newsletter that came out today says they discovered one 
> Gold 
> 50 in stock...
>
> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:23:50 AM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> It's way more flexy/comfy than my Custom Ti bike, which friends 
>> already claim is flexy and comfy when they ride it (and which flexes 
>> like 
>> crazy when I attach a trailer to it). It's overbuilt for me @ 145 
>> pounds. 
>> If I was 160 pounds I wouldn't consider it over built, and if I was 200 
>> pounds I still wouldn't expect to break it. My big complaint is that I 
>> don't consider 75mm BB drop to be sufficient for 30mm tires on the road. 
>> I 
>> want 80mm or 85mm drop for a bike built for modern style giant tires 
>> where 
>> you wouldn't expect to ride anything smaller than 700x30.
>>
>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:19:37 AM UTC-8 four...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I guess that's my concern is I'm not looking for a gravel bike.. I'm 
>>> looking for a zippy (fast-ish) road bike that will take larger tires.. 
>>> Also,  one of my main concerns is the bike will be overbuilt, meaning 
>>> the 
>>> tubes will be heavy enough that it won't flex enough to be comfy.. 
>>>
>>> Thoughts? 
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 6:15:25 AM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I have about 1300 miles on my Roadini: 
 https://blog.piaw.net/2023/05/rivendell-roadini-1000-mile-review.html. 
 With 700x28mm tires it feels as fast as any bike I've ridden that's 
 not 
 built to be ultralight. I built mine up to be around 20 

[RBW] Re: Roadini Feedback

2024-01-05 Thread Chris Fly
I guess that's my concern is I'm not looking for a gravel bike.. I'm 
looking for a zippy (fast-ish) road bike that will take larger tires.. 
Also,  one of my main concerns is the bike will be overbuilt, meaning the 
tubes will be heavy enough that it won't flex enough to be comfy.. 

Thoughts? 

On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 6:15:25 AM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have about 1300 miles on my Roadini: 
> https://blog.piaw.net/2023/05/rivendell-roadini-1000-mile-review.html. 
> With 700x28mm tires it feels as fast as any bike I've ridden that's not 
> built to be ultralight. I built mine up to be around 20 pounds with pedals, 
> bottle cage and pump but no toolkit or water bottle. I could have probably 
> shaved another pound off with Jon Neugent's 1430g wheels. Having said that, 
> it doesn't beat my custom Ti touring bike built based on the 1993 
> Bridgestone RB-1 geometry on climbs up hills or stability on descents (the 
> higher BB on the Roadini is to blame). What I do find is that with 38mm 
> tires it is an excellent gravel bike and I have no issues taking it down 
> single track  trails that others would consider MTB trails. The Tektro 559s 
> outperform any disc brakes I've ever found and never make noise (unlike any 
> disc brakes I've ever ridden).
>
> I did buy another 50cm Roadini to build up for my son when he's tall 
> enough to ride it (which won't take a year), so that tells you that I think 
> it's the best general purpose bike in the Rivendell stable. The bike is so 
> versatile I wouldn't hesitate to take it anywhere except a dedicated 
> downhill MTB park.
> On Thursday, January 4, 2024 at 9:54:56 AM UTC-8 four...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Howdy all,
>>
>> So I realize I'm posting this on the RBW list, so there is bound to be 
>> some bias and that's ok.. ;) I'm a Riv owner myself with a current AHH I 
>> got from my Dad when he passed and have previously owned a Bleriot and a 
>> Ram for a short time. 
>>
>> So, my question is simple- does the Roadini feel fast(ish) when riding? 
>> I'm sure builds vary and so weight will vary, but I know some bikes can 
>> weigh a bit more and still feel "quick".. to be fair, I'm no racer, but I 
>> like a bike to feel good when I stand up to pedal or am zipping around at 
>> my, fast for me, 18-19 mph.. 
>>
>> I would be looking to build up with drop bars BTW with a modern-ish 
>> group.. 
>>
>> Finally, anyone have a 50cm frameset (or complete maybe) they are looking 
>> to move? 
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chris is Sonoma County, CA :) 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini Feedback

2024-01-04 Thread Chris Fly
Thanks Tony!

I do have the Homer set up with drop bars, but since it was my Dad's, it's 
not exactly my perfect size and it's a 650b model (not sure if they all 
were) and I don't want to change much of the bike as it was my Dad's (he 
had Alt bars on it). 

Good to know you are enjoying your Roadini.. I don't mind welds and they 
don't look too bad from the pics.. :) 

Thanks.
Chris 

On Thursday, January 4, 2024 at 3:02:27 PM UTC-8 Tony Lockhart wrote:

> Hi Chris,
> Thanks for sharing your story. I’m sorry to hear about your dad’s passing 
> however I’m happy to hear that his bike is being put to good use. 
>
> To answer your question, I’ll verify that the Leo is fast(ish), as you put 
> it. I just bought one and have about 150 miles on it. 
>
> Having run a hundred different setups on my Sam during the past 14 years, 
> I’ll just add that you can set up your Homer to be fast(ish). But if you’re 
> itching for a new bike, the Roadini is great. Definitely less flex in the 
> rear triangle with out of the saddle climbs. If you’ve got a type A 
> personality, you’ll think the welds in the Leo look sloppy. Nothing beats a 
> gorgeous, lugged frame….but if you care about something reliable and fun, 
> definitely not sluggish, and beautifully quirky, the Roadini is the way to 
> go. 
>
> Happy trails, Tony
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 4, 2024 at 9:54:56 AM UTC-8 four...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Howdy all,
>>
>> So I realize I'm posting this on the RBW list, so there is bound to be 
>> some bias and that's ok.. ;) I'm a Riv owner myself with a current AHH I 
>> got from my Dad when he passed and have previously owned a Bleriot and a 
>> Ram for a short time. 
>>
>> So, my question is simple- does the Roadini feel fast(ish) when riding? 
>> I'm sure builds vary and so weight will vary, but I know some bikes can 
>> weigh a bit more and still feel "quick".. to be fair, I'm no racer, but I 
>> like a bike to feel good when I stand up to pedal or am zipping around at 
>> my, fast for me, 18-19 mph.. 
>>
>> I would be looking to build up with drop bars BTW with a modern-ish 
>> group.. 
>>
>> Finally, anyone have a 50cm frameset (or complete maybe) they are looking 
>> to move? 
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chris is Sonoma County, CA :) 
>>
>

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[RBW] Roadini Feedback

2024-01-04 Thread Chris Fly
Howdy all,

So I realize I'm posting this on the RBW list, so there is bound to be some 
bias and that's ok.. ;) I'm a Riv owner myself with a current AHH I got 
from my Dad when he passed and have previously owned a Bleriot and a Ram 
for a short time. 

So, my question is simple- does the Roadini feel fast(ish) when riding? I'm 
sure builds vary and so weight will vary, but I know some bikes can weigh a 
bit more and still feel "quick".. to be fair, I'm no racer, but I like a 
bike to feel good when I stand up to pedal or am zipping around at my, fast 
for me, 18-19 mph.. 

I would be looking to build up with drop bars BTW with a modern-ish group.. 

Finally, anyone have a 50cm frameset (or complete maybe) they are looking 
to move? 

Thanks,
Chris is Sonoma County, CA :) 

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[RBW] Re: Thinking about Roadini

2023-07-24 Thread Chris Fly
This, for me, is a great wrap-up.. had a couple Rivs, have my Dad's AHH now 
that I will never part with.. as much as I love the marketing and look of a 
Roadini, just not sure it's the right bike for what it appears to be.. they 
do look great though! 

Chris 

On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 6:44:32 AM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:

> I'm going to share my opinion on this but it is just thatmy opinion. 
> With that caveat in mind here is how I arrived at the conclusion not to buy 
> a Roadini. My first Rivendell, a Sam Hillborne, is now my only Riv in the 
> current stable. This is my absolute favorite bike in the world. I have done 
> so much on this bike that it is now part of my life story. It was my first 
> entry into the "Just Ride" mentality. It broke me out of the mold and 
> allowed me to experience the joy of being an Unracer. I've configured it 
> multiple ways. I've camped with it, I've climbed some of the toughest 
> mountain in Vermont with it, I've explored some of the best gravel roads 
> the Northeast has to offer. It has done everything well and has never let 
> me down. However, in my experience the one thing the Sam does not do well 
> is to hang with the fast guys on my weekend group ride. The bike is simply 
> not optimized for that. All of that said, I have never loved a bike. more 
> then I love my Sam Hillborne. I will never part with it. 
>
> When I first saw the photos of the Sergio's green Roadini Riv's marketing 
> strategy worked exactly as it was designed to do. Convince me that I needed 
> to have one. I have other bikes that do not fit the Rivendell ethos. I have 
> a carbon fiber road bike with carbon wheels, hydraulic disc brakes and 
> electronic shifting. The antithesis of what Riv promotes. Yet this bike 
> still has its purpose that suits my riding needs/desires.  If I want to go 
> ride with my fellow middle age men in Lycra on a weekend go fast ride I'm 
> going to take the carbon bike. I want this bike in my stable but there is 
> no soulful connection to this carbon machine.  Nothing like my love for the 
> Sam.  
>
> The Roadini was going to scratch an itch that I had to build up a classic 
> steel frame with rim brakes and mechanical brifters. I wanted Campagnolo 
> parts because I've never owned a bike with Campy. The vision I had for the 
> Roadini was to take it on my weekend group ride with my fellow MAMIL 
> friends. Sure I could have done this on a Roadini but I question if I would 
> have been happy with it.  I had doubts that the geometry would be too 
> upright and the chainstays too long. I simply had a hunch that a Roadini 
> would not meet my expectation of having the snappy road feel that I look 
> for in a bike like this. I was afraid it would feel dull and sluggish. 
>
> Everyone's needs will be different. I've had a Appaloosa and a Clem H. 
> Regret selling the Appaloosa all the time but don't regret letting going of 
> the Clem H. 
>
> A Roadini would be a great bike for someone under the right circumstances. 
> Compared to anything that Surly makes I'd say it would be a marked 
> improvement. 
>
> As for me I ultimately bought a used steel Serotta frame in mint condition 
> that I will build up with Campy parts. I will scratch the itch that I had 
> for a classic rim brake road bike with mechanical shifting but this time it 
> won't be another Riv. 
>
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 9:03:15 AM UTC-4 Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
>> Have you considered anything from Crust? I too am interested in a Roadini 
>> (Although I dont plan to get one since I just built a Sam and have a 
>> Waterford) but I wonder if the Riv philosophy and tubing really is the best 
>> choice for a light feeling road bike. Mostly I'm refrrring to the tubing.
>>
>> My Sam is probably my favorite bike I've owned.
>>
>> On Friday, July 21, 2023 at 1:49:40 AM UTC-4 R. Scott Lake wrote:
>>
>>> Intrigued by the Roadini release tomorrow.
>>>
>>>
>>>- Current stable is 61cm Cheviot for commutes, groceries- my 
>>>favorite ride.
>>>- I have.a relatively new 58 Surly Straggler that I am using as my 
>>>road bike.
>>>- Has always felt a bit aggressive. Get a little sore and numb after 
>>>a while.
>>>- 90% of my riding is on flat, SC Lowcountry roads- 10-20 miles at a 
>>>clip.
>>>- 55 years old. PBH=89, 6' 175#
>>>
>>>
>>> Question is whether I will notice a large comfort difference in Roadini 
>>> compared to current Straggler.
>>>
>>> Wish I could do a test ride.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts.
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] If you convince Rivendell to bring back "one" former model

2022-12-08 Thread Chris Fly
hands down, a Legolas.. ideally a Taiwan-made frame to save a little coin..

I just picked up a new-to-me Rambouillet, so I'm covered there for now.. :) 

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 3:12:54 PM UTC-8 jackd...@gmail.com wrote:

> My Hunqapillar is the favorite in the stable, but I think a case can 
> really be made to bring back the Bleriot. Classic geometry, MIT (I believe) 
> to keep the price reasonable, and I'd argue that the decal 
>  is the best Riv 
> has done. 
>
> On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 2:55:32 PM UTC-8 Drew Henson wrote:
>
>> legolas OR a more classically styled country bike with close to level top 
>> tube and shorter chain stays
>>
>> On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 2:16:03 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:
>>
>>> I vote long stay version of Glorious and Hunqapillar in CLEAR COAT...
>>>
>>> I hope Grant is listening
>>>
>>> On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 03:11:33 PM MST, Mackenzy Albright <
>>> mackenzy...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>>>
>>>
>>> All these threads about "choosing the one Riv" or "how do I pick which 
>>> model" got me thinking. If you could convince Rivendell to resurrect one 
>>> out of production modelwhich would you choose? 
>>>
>>> After acquiring a Clementine after a new Clem Smith Jr, I see merit of 
>>> the geometry of the Clementine as a standalone step through that feels like 
>>> a long wheelbase agile bike rather than a floaty surfboard. I absolutely 
>>> adore both-but they're extraordinarily different, despite being a natural 
>>> and logical evolution. I really enjoyed the reference of the thread "a tale 
>>> of two clems" by Ding Ding! as I found similarities in my experience. 
>>>
>>> The evolution of Rivendell's is absolutely fascinating to me as there 
>>> has never been a hang up for changing tried and true models. XO-1 - ALL 
>>> Rounder - TOYO Atlantis - MUSA Atlantis - MIT Atlantis. People are still 
>>> obsessive with each rendition of a concept over its evolution. 
>>>
>>>
>>> SOoo long story short. I would choose the Hunqapillar. Hands down. 
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB- RB-1 or Rambouillet

2022-06-03 Thread Chris Fly
Good Evening,

I'm on the hunt for a 54.5 RB-1 (that can take a 130 hub) or a 54/56 Ram 
(interested in thoughts on Ram sizing). Ideally looking for a frameset 
(with headset already?) 

Thanks,
Chris 
Sonoma County, CA

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[RBW] Re: How can you tell when slick tires are past their prime?

2022-05-28 Thread Chris Fly
Morning!

Usually on a tubed tire, you'll start getting more and more flats from 
things that didn't give you flats before. As was said above, you'll 
eventually start to see the threads of the tire as well. This actually 
happened to my Father-in-law yesterday as we were preparing to go for a 
group ride.. his tire had about a dime-size patch where the black had 
started to come off and, even though he pumped them up the night before, it 
was very soft. These tires are tubeless as well. 

I have usually replaced my tubed tires well before any threads were shown 
based on increased punctures. 

Chris
Sonoma County, CA

On Friday, May 27, 2022 at 5:30:51 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:

> Hi Roberta !  Most of the slick tires I've had will start to show some 
> white threads when the rubber is gone. Some it comes quicker than others, 
> and some only in spots while other may be long streaks. It may look like 
> skid marks. Another way on some tires is a flat groove is worn in the 
> center to the point it looks concave. If the tires have some kind of 
> puncture resistance built in you may not even notice . I've worn some tires 
> down so far they began to look like they were white striped , but never got 
> a flat ! 
>
> If you're very unfamiliar with a tire and you have a new one on hand take 
> a good look at it in your hand formed like it's inflated, and compare it to 
> the one on the bike. A very worn one will be notably different looking in 
> the middle. It's really about getting to know the character of that 
> particular tire. 
>
> Now I have some Schwalbe Marathon Racer and Big Ben tires that just seem 
> to last and last and have yet to get to the white streak point.I've had 
> Vittoria Hyper slicks that wore to the white so fast I thought I was seeing 
> a mirage ! Ooops, guess not ! 
> On Friday, May 27, 2022 at 5:30:43 PM UTC-4 Roberta wrote:
>
>> Leah and I both have Gravel King Slicks on a bike and question came up:  
>> If the tires are naturally slick, how can you tell that the life is wearing 
>> away, hopefully before they ooze out sealant or go flat on a ride?
>>
>> Just in case it matters, my GK Slicks are run tubeless and hers are 
>> tubed, but it's part of a bigger question, since they cannot be the only 
>> tire without aggressive tread, and they might not get replaced with the 
>> same tire brand or model.
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>

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[RBW] Blue Homer Hilsen Cables

2022-02-01 Thread Chris Fly
Hello All,

Looking to replace the housing on my Hilsen with Velo-Orange Cables and they 
don’t have the grey that’s on my bike now… 

What colors do you all have on a Hilsen blue bike? I kind of like the idea of 
the brown, but…. 

Chris 

Make a space for people to come as they are and not have to just “fit in”

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[RBW] Re: Homer Hilsen Refreash

2022-01-16 Thread Chris Fly
Thanks All!

Joe- that build looks similar to what I'm thinking... The will actually be 
shipped out Monday, so I'll see what I got to work with when it gets here. 
I'm really excited as I know Dad would have wanted to me to use it for 
sure. 

Chris



On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 6:28:02 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Chris, here's the setup on my custom which I just got back from riding and 
> can't say enough good things about. It's a SRAM Rival 1 derailleur with 
> SunRace 11-50 11-speed cassette..the cage/pulleys are Garbaruk fron Analog 
> Cycles but honestly the stock cage worked fine before I made the switch. 
> Front is 36t. I use a trigger shifter but you can match this drivetrain to 
> Rival 1 dropbar levers. 
>
> *zoom for detail, the background in this pic kinda washes everything out*
>
> Joe Bernard
> On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 4:44:12 PM UTC-8 four...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Howdy, been a member for a while, don't post much. 
>>
>> Looking for some ideas from the collective here...
>>
>> Background:
>> My dad passed away last year and I will soon be getting his very lightly 
>> used Riv Homer Hilsen. The bike is currently set up (as far as I know) with 
>> swept-back bars, MTB levers, 9sp RD (Deore maybe?), Triple front chainset 
>> (Sugino), Paul Thumbies, and Riv Silver brakes.
>>
>> I'm looking to modernize it a bit with drop bars (Nitto stem/bars), 
>> tubeless wheels/tires (Pacenti Brevet wheels and Gravel Kings?), and update 
>> the drivetrain... this last part is where I'm looking for some advice.
>>
>> Since I have to invest in new levers and shifters (or at least modify the 
>> Thumbies to bar ends), I've considering a whole new drivetrain... maybe a 
>> 1x gravel setup with something like a 42/42? Also, maybe go with a set of 
>> Paul's in the brake dept? I think I've read the Silver brakes can be a 
>> little flexy at times?
>>
>> I will ride as is for a bit, but... Thoughts? 
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chris
>>
>

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[RBW] Homer Hilsen Refreash

2022-01-16 Thread Chris Fly
Howdy, been a member for a while, don't post much. 

Looking for some ideas from the collective here...

Background:
My dad passed away last year and I will soon be getting his very lightly 
used Riv Homer Hilsen. The bike is currently set up (as far as I know) with 
swept-back bars, MTB levers, 9sp RD (Deore maybe?), Triple front chainset 
(Sugino), Paul Thumbies, and Riv Silver brakes.

I'm looking to modernize it a bit with drop bars (Nitto stem/bars), 
tubeless wheels/tires (Pacenti Brevet wheels and Gravel Kings?), and update 
the drivetrain... this last part is where I'm looking for some advice.

Since I have to invest in new levers and shifters (or at least modify the 
Thumbies to bar ends), I've considering a whole new drivetrain... maybe a 
1x gravel setup with something like a 42/42? Also, maybe go with a set of 
Paul's in the brake dept? I think I've read the Silver brakes can be a 
little flexy at times?

I will ride as is for a bit, but... Thoughts? 

Thanks,
Chris

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