[RBW] Re: Dogs on Rivs -- leash "wand"?

2018-07-05 Thread GAJett
Training, training, training. No wand needed. 
Approached a woman on bike with dog on leash from behind on a paved trail 
through a wild area. Large dog on right. About 15 feet ahead a large jackrabbit 
broke cover from the right, crossing the trail pactically under the dogs nose. 
I briefly wondered if I had my first-aid kit to deal with the certain 
disaster... But the dog simply hesitated to watch the rabbit cross. It's all 
about the training. 
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Crowd sourcing ideas for vintage parts for a new randonneuring rig (semi sort of WTB)

2017-07-24 Thread GAJett
I have a RapidRise on my AHH, with newish (2010) Shimano indexed/friction 
barcons. Absolutely love them. On my '73 Raleigh Competition I currently have 
shifters on the downtube, but will shortly return to '70's vintage Shimano 
barcons (the ones with the inner spring mechanism).

While I still make mistakes with the RapidRise, they are minor and don't bother 
me (decades riding pre-RapidRise made some habits).  But I really don't expect 
moving back and forth to be much of a problem. (I make many more mistakes with 
the twist-shifter on my Bike Friday.)
Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Crowd sourcing ideas for vintage parts for a new randonneuring rig (semi sort of WTB)

2017-07-20 Thread GAJett
Yeah, the CX has two problems I should have anticipated. 
1. My chain is an NOS Siedisport designed for 5/6-speed clusters, so is 
extremely sensitive to adjustments. 
2. The depth of the inner cage plate, although much less than a MTB front, is 
too deep for the three-inch difference on my half-step. 
In the description for the CX70 on the Riv website it states it's been made to 
work with some wierd half-step setups. I guess mine is just wierder. 
Before I had Riv build my AHH with a similar half-step, they used an old 
low-end Shimmy they had lying around. Besides not working well for my "wierd" 
application, it was incredibly fugly!  Pulled the Superb II off the old bike 
and works perfectly on the AHH. So the original Jubilee's going back on the 
old. 
Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Crowd sourcing ideas for vintage parts for a new randonneuring rig (semi sort of WTB)

2017-07-20 Thread GAJett
The short cage Jubilee was long ago replaced with a Duopar. It's the front 
Jubilee that's going back on.
Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Crowd sourcing ideas for vintage parts for a new randonneuring rig (semi sort of WTB)

2017-07-20 Thread GAJett
Nice to see I'm not the only one running a Jubilie on a wide range front setup 
(49/46/26). Actually will be going BACK on as it shifts much better than a new 
Shimano CX70!
CHEERS!

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[RBW] WTB: OG Burrito wrap

2017-07-20 Thread GAJett
U, Go to Cost Plus Pier One Crate & Barrel Ikea and buy a few large cheap 
cotton/linen napkins?
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Re: How hot is too hot?

2017-07-17 Thread GAJett
In hot weather I carry a water bottle for "the outside", dumping it over my 
head and back as I go. 

Dehydration is not the only risk. 
Be aware also for:
* heat exhaustion (clammy skin, sweating profusely; stop, cool off, drink water 
and mild electrolytes, rest) and 
* heat STROKE (hot dry skin, maybe listless; begin ACTIVE cooling and CALL AN 
AMBULANCE!!!)
There are other heat illnesses, but these are the big three. 

Age, fitness level, weight, general heat tolerance, and becoming adapted to 
warm weather all have their contribution. A fit 70-year old near target weight 
who's ridden actively since cool weather will tolerate the heat much better 
than the sedentary overweighy 30-year old getting a first ride in on a "90°/90% 
day. 

Anecdote: Shackelton's crew, left behind for a year in subfreezing weather on 
Elephant Island found the springtime weather just above freezing to be 
"uncomfortably warm". 
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sag Wagon Camping Test Run

2017-07-14 Thread GAJett
Many years ago I was near Salida, CO. Was intrigued that, what I would only 
describe as a bad 4x4 road actually had a County road number. (Too long ago to 
remember the number though.)
Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Warm weather bike clothing, long sleeved

2017-07-08 Thread GAJett
Gave up on much of the "racewear" years ago (though still like padded 
shorts).  If the CF crowd has a problem with what I wear, it's not mine.  
But then they also seem to have a problem with steel frames, comfy tires, 
racks, lights, full size frame pumps, and fenders.  

And if they want to ride fire roads and trails, well that's a SECOND bike 
REQUIRED!  Most Rivs just do it ALL ;-)
Cheers!

On Friday, July 7, 2017 at 11:26:38 PM UTC-7, Ash A wrote:
>
> This summer I have been wearing REI brand SPF 50 long sleeve shirt (this 
> thing is heavily ventilated. After a while even in 90 deg I forget that I'm 
> wearing long sleeves) and Rivendell's 2017 MUSA pants.  
>
> I climbed Mt Hamilton with those on my road bike couple of weeks ago. I 
> got some weird looks from folks who were riding carbon bikes (99% of them 
> were)
>
> * * *  I rode straight to a fancy restaurant to have my dinner and a 
> drink.  It didn't feel out of place at all. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Warm weather bike clothing, long sleeved

2017-07-08 Thread GAJett
+1 here.  In addition to the quick dry, nice options to roll up the sleeves 
and fix in place as the weather changes.  Consider also the "convertible 
pants" in similar materials (the ones with the zip-off legs).  Mornings, 
legs off, afternoon, legs on. My personal choices are Columbia for shirts 
and REI Sahara for pants. YMMV
Cheers!

On Friday, July 7, 2017 at 5:03:10 PM UTC-7, Shawn Granton wrote:
>
> I know this may be an unpopular opinion here, but I like the long sleeved 
> shirts offered by major outdoor brands. Yeah, they are synthetic, but they 
> do the job, and are lightweight. Great for bringing on a bike tour, since 
> they dry fast and can be crammed in your clothing bag without worry of 
> wrinkling. (Plus, they don't take up much space.) I often look for ones 
> billed as "fishing shirts".
> -Shawn 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

2017-06-20 Thread GAJett
樂Sounds like that's complete with motor

Cheers!

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[RBW] what kind of bike is it?

2017-06-16 Thread GAJett
Oh, BTW,your Compass tires should work just fine on the "good dirt road" of 
Grouse Mountain. 

You can find many stories about riding such roads (and worse) at the Compass 
bikes blog, Off the Beaten Path. Follow the link from compasscycle.com. 

There are also extensive discussions there on the benefits of riding with lower 
pressures and wider tires, even on skinny-tired racing bikes. Informative 
reading. 

Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: what kind of bike is it?

2017-06-16 Thread GAJett
All-rounder? Country bike? Do It All? Road bike? Commuter? Tourer? For my AHH 
the answer is YES!!! And More!

Have done most of the above (not yet touring but certainly will). Lots of road: 
good; cracked, broken & alligatored; good dirt; bad dirt; single-track; 
whatever. My AHH handles all with grace and confidence. 

Have surprised MTN bikers following them down narrow ridges. 25 mph down good 
fire road, not a problem. Fat old guy on a first 100k, very pleasant. Paved 
bike trail blocked, ring your bell and dive off across the dirt shoulder with 
no loss of speed. 

When your buddies ask if your Riv can do X, the answer is YES!

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[RBW] WTB: 43T, 110 S!LVER chainring

2017-06-13 Thread GAJett
Peter White handles TA Carmina/Zephyr chainrings in odd-tooth counts. A 
significant variety are available. 

TA is about the last maker for such rings. (Just wish they still made 
odd-toothed Cyclotourist rings.)
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Comic Relief: CLOSE-RANGE crankset

2017-06-13 Thread GAJett
Amen to that. We can all find what works for us. 
BTW, I love the way Steve set the gearing on his two smallest cogs. Brilliant! 
Something I will keep in mind going forward. 
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Comic Relief: CLOSE-RANGE crankset

2017-06-12 Thread GAJett
"Crossover Gearing
This refers to a derailer gear system in which the jumps between chainwheel 
sizes are approximately the same as the jumps between adjacent rear sprockets. 
This type of gear setup provides a particularly simple shifting pattern, 
requiring no double shifting at all, but at the price of creating a large 
number of duplicate gears, and limiting either the overall range of gears or 
the closeness of spacing." St. Sheldon. 

So if I understand Mr. Brown correctly, using a 9-spd cluster with crossover 
gearing I functionally get 10 ratios. And that doesn't consider cross-chaining. 
 So why not just go for a single chain wheel and keep it really simple. I'll 
probably use only one chain wheel most of the time anyway. 

With a half-step I have 18 distinct gears! (Again ignoring cross-chaining.)  I 
ride mostly in the middle ring, but, if I want to fine tune, the option is 
there. With a crossover, oh well. 

I'm not saying that the typical crossover setup is wrong. But I do believe many 
dismiss a superb option out of tradition and habit. But what it really comes 
down to is use whatever makes you happiest. For me, I'm a half-stepper of over 
four  decades now. And I'm well content☺️
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Comic Relief: CLOSE-RANGE crankset

2017-06-12 Thread GAJett
WADAYA MEAN Comic Relief
Looks like my cranksets! 

Newer one on my AHH is a 44/41/24 x 12-36 9-spd.
40-year old+ one on my Raleigh Comp a 49/46/26 x 13-26 6-spd.

Absolutely LOVE half-step+grannys. Think of them as a wide-range double where 
you can fine-tune your top gears. 
WAY too much to go in to right now but can't be beat. Frankly, I can't 
understand the "standard" 10-tooth defaults used for years.

Downsides: hard to source front ders any more; and odd-toothed rings harder to 
find (thank goodness for TA). But worth chasing down. 
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?

2017-06-12 Thread GAJett
Switched from Schwalbe Marathon 650Bx38 to the Compass LLP EL 650Bx38. Over the 
same routes in back to back weeks I was 1.5 mph faster on the Compass tires. 
Yeah, they're twice the cost, but would still be less expensive than new 
wheelset.
Cheers!
7 year old AHH with 190# 62 year old motor

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[RBW] OT: rain gear for warm weather backpacking

2017-05-19 Thread GAJett
At those temperatures I would go with a water-RESISTANT shell that could be 
treated with something like Nikwax(tm). This over a poly or nylon hiking shirt. 
Nylon or poly convertible hiking pants on the bottom, no rain gear. 

Didn't say if expecting rain overnight but light sleepwear or a change would 
let the rained-on clothes dry out. I know many like cotton, but nylon and poly 
will dry much more quickly. 
Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

2017-05-03 Thread GAJett
AWESOME!
So to mount.  
Do you lean the bike over and step over? 
Swing your leg over the handlebars? or 
Swing your leg over the back ;-)

Rack and panniers?  OMG, what's the total weight? 

And did you make it home?  Safely?

Deacon, I hope I can keep up when I'm your age (or I already am your age, 
or beyond, and am falling behind already!  THAT would be an off-line 
discussion).
Cheers!

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 10:54:49 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> RBW Content, so no longer off topic! Here's (5) 1"x6"x8' and (3) 2"x6"x8' 
> pine boards, cut in half and hauled in panniers (pus bits in the saddle 
> bag). 
> http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-into-hand-powered-woodworking/
>
> On Saturday, April 29, 2017 at 4:43:23 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Well, I've certainly got enough "simple" coming my way next week to get 
>> me in trouble for a very long time trying to catch up with it! Grin. 
>> Sharpening: yes. Core. Essential. Basics. Takes five minutes to begin, a 
>> lifetime to learn. One of the things I've learned is that once I have the 
>> basics I have to learn the basics. And when I "need" more to advance, that 
>> usually means I need to return to the basics and get better at them 
>> instead. Grin. I have found this universally true, in marriage, prayer, 
>> faith, footwear, furniture, cooking, biking, running, parenting... ... ... 
>> Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

2017-04-27 Thread GAJett
Contact hidatool.com out of Berkely, CA.  Many tools available.  Only a few 
books though.  If you call, they may be able to put you into contact with 
other resources.

If I remember this weekend Fine Woodworking once had an article on an 
American Japanese woodworker who taught the craft.  What stood out in my 
mind was that he would cut one side of a dovetail joint, the pass it around 
to the class.  In the meantime he would cut the other half.  Upon return of 
the first, the fit was perfect!
Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Bear Country Bike Camping

2017-04-27 Thread GAJett
Thanks for the link to an excellent article, Will.  It's been bookmarked.  

I was aware of Brad Treat's fatal bear encounter from some original reports 
last year.  I hadn't realized he had actually collided with the bear 
though.  Adding bells would be an excellent option, as would an air horn.  
And keep the speed down (20 to 25 mph down Sourdough probably way to fast 
(but way fun on my Hilsen)).

Yes bears are a risk.  But keep in mind one comment to the story reminding 
us that "the most dangerous animal is the one that walks upright, wears 
clothes, and can be very unpredictable." 

Now just need handlebar mounts for an air horn, bear spray, bells, 
cyclocomputer, h'bar bag (it's getting crowded) GPS, smahtfone, headlamp ...

Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Bear Country Bike Camping

2017-04-26 Thread GAJett
Thanks to everyone for their considered responses.  These are somewhat long 
term plans right now.  One planned route is out of Bozeman up Bridger 
Canyon then camping somewhere on Flathead Pass.  Return next day down the 
west side of the Bridgers.

A few comments:
Pannier storage is an option but looking for more of a rack-mounted 
solution.  Perhaps in a bear can in a bag strapped to the rear rack.  I'll 
need to try the stability.  Front already taken by H'bar bag, maybe add 
front rack as well (an ancient Karrimor perhaps? {THAT'S gotta date me!})  
Alternatively a custom rack specifically designed to hold a cylinder.

Deacon, as you point out bear behavior varies radically especially from 
region to region. Sierra bears are among the WORST.  In the front country 
steel lockers the only safe storage.  Food and other "smellies" in cars 
will result in a destroyed car.  Don't even think about leaving food in a 
tent or pack unless you want them destroyed as well.  One bear even took a 
pack of a kid's back at the top of Nevada Falls in Yosemite and was 
subsequently destroyed.  (The bears' behavior was becoming more dangerous 
over time, the kid was unharmed.)  Yellowstone and Glacier are a different 
matter, only requiring storage in a hard-sided vehicle such as a car or a 
standard trailer.  Tents and tent trailers are out.

Hanging alway an option as I'm not intending to camp above tree-line.  I've 
just found it time consuming to set up.  I use a dacron line -- doesn't 
stretch like nylon can.  Even then the mini-bears can get into a standard 
bag (mini-bears = chipmunks).

Bear spray goes without saying.  Carry it on my hip.

Ursak, an interesting option, especially when combined with a hang.  But 
ALL bear resistant containers have their limitations. 
*  I have heard of at least one Sierra bear that has learned to spin the 
top off the BearVault container, 
*  Another that has learned to drop the Garcia cans off a 300 foot cliff to 
crack it open.  
*  Then there is the rumored "Kamakazi Bear" of northwestern Cali that is 
reputed to climb above hung bags and jump on the lines to bring the bags 
down.  
*  I have also seen videos of a standing sow with a cub standing on her 
shoulders being able to reach a standard hang.  
*  The Bearsak?  As Deacon has reported bears have been unable to breach 
them but how well do the contents survive?  The bears can't get the food, 
but I've heard you'd better like the pulverized mixture of everything 
together, possibly drenched in bear drool! (only a rumor of course.)

Thanks to everyone! and
Cheers!

Final fun thoughts:
Some tourists complain about the cost of bear spray - something they might 
not even need (and you can't fly it home).  So what do you do with it after 
you leave.  A Ranger in Glacier suggested that you keep it by the front 
door...

It's easy to tell the type of bear in the area, without seeing the bear. 
*  Black bear scat is full of berries, nuts, and small mammal parts, and 
smells like scat.  
*  Grizzly scat has the same contents but with the addition of bells and 
smelling of pepper...

Why can't bears open the Garcia-type containers?  It's because they don't 
have pockets!  If they don't have pockets they don't have a place to carry 
the quarters needed to open the canister...

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[RBW] Bear Country Bike Camping

2017-04-25 Thread GAJett
Planning some bike camping (S24O and longer) in bear country.  Camping off 
dirt roads and fire trails. Looking for advice for packing bear canisters.  
Suggestions for mounting and/or racks specifically designed for carrying 
such rigid containers.
Cheers!
gajett

p.s., I do have significant backpacking experience in bear country.  No 
biking experience with bears other than seeing a black bear cross the 
Sourdough trail ahead if me near Bozeman MT.

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Re: [RBW] Headset nut: aluminum vs steel

2017-04-24 Thread GAJett
A pipe wrench or "Channel-locks" are certainly better than slipjoint pliers!
(Sometimes you just gotta do what ya gotta do.)

Re hammers... "If it can't be fixed with a hammer, it can't be fixed!"  (I 
told that to a copier repair person once.  He laughed so hard he dropped 
his screwdriver.  Took him an extra 1/2 hour to retrieve it.  He was still 
laughing once it was back in hand.)
Cheers!


>
> [image: Inline image 1]
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] just waiting on my white Bluemels

2017-04-17 Thread GAJett
As a devotee of half-step+granny I'm interested in your gearing.  Tooth 
counts front and rear please.  

I'm finding building half-steps getting challenging as many chainwheel 
makers have very limited odd--toothed options.  the T/A Zephyr being an 
exception.
Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: kindness

2017-04-13 Thread GAJett

One thing I value on this group is that people can disagree and still 
remain friends.  A large part of this is that opinions are backed up by 
reasoned arguments while the authors remain open to challenge while others 
can judge the merits for themselves.

As a group we value the "Rivendell experience", but are in no way blind 
acolytes of Grant Peterson.  Many of us recognize him as a significant 
visionary in the bicycling world, but don't always agree with his 
opinions.  His guidance and life's work are valued, not as an end-all, but 
as an important starting point for our own explorations.  

I will say for myself, that his thoughts have led me to new avenues of what 
bicycling can be and has significantly changed my bicycling life for the 
better.  My sincere thanks to Grant, and to all the members of this group.  
We are all better for being participants here.
Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Sam

2017-04-06 Thread GAJett
Can't speak to the Conti's but I recently replaced my worn-out original 
Schwalbe Marathon 650Bx38 with Compass Loup-Loup Pass extra-lights of the 
same size.  The difference is phenomenal!  Seat of the pants and watching 
average speeds over several common routes indicates the Compass tires are 
1-1/2 to 2 mph faster when run at similar pressures.  They're also roll a 
lot more smoothly.  Yeah they're spendy but totally worth it.  I couldn't 
be happier.  
Cheers!
(Probably only about 500 miles so far, but no flats vs. 1 flat per 1,000 
miles on the Schwalbe's.)

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[RBW] Re: Downhill and uphill and getting old and fat and passed.

2017-04-05 Thread GAJett
Grabbed my 40-year-old Raleigh Comp for a spin Friday, heading up a 
moderate hill. Heard bikes coming up from behind and soon passed by a 
couple of full-kit youngsters on spendy plastic bikes.  Not surprised they 
passed mye by but was surprised how SLOWLY they passed.  I'm still getting 
in shape after the winter, hadn't been on this particular bike in years, 
was in too high a gear, and a month and a half from 62. All in all, not bad 
for an old crock.
Cheers! 

My only competition is myself...

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[RBW] Re: book of possible interest to Rivendell riders

2017-03-30 Thread GAJett
I grew up with vinyl (still having a couple hundred records but haven't 
spun them in DECADES).  

I frankly don't get the notion that vinyl "sounds better".  I really think, 
for us older folks (boomers) it comes down to what we grew up on, while the 
new kids are attracted by the "cool factor" no matter the sound quality.  
Always remember that the vinyl signal is also 'processed' via now 
standardized RIAA equalization because the high frequencies can't be etched 
into the vinyl at their actual configuration.  It all comes down to "it's 
different."  May as well argue over the sound quality between Carnegie Hall 
and the Metropolitan Opera Hall.  If the same orchestra played the same 
piece in each place, the sound would be different.

I now buy CDs then rip to digital.  For most music I get tired listening to 
the same tunes in the same order time after time.  This allows me a random 
play of multiple albums, which keeps the music fresh.  For example, I have 
over 18 hours of Celtic Christmas-themed music*.  Much more interesting if 
I don't know what's coming up next.  (Also allows me to exclude tracks I 
don't like).  Same with Grateful Dead, Johnny Cash, Asleep at the Wheel, 
other Celtic, etc.  Some albums DO, however, sound better in their original 
order, where the order tells a coherent story.  Much Pink Floyd, the Who's 
"Tommy", and most classical works come to mind.

In summary, there are many advantages to "going digital".
Cheers!
* Gets me from central California to S.E. Montana with no repeats! (driving)

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[RBW] Re: S24o Kit Evaluation

2017-02-01 Thread GAJett
Don't know what happened to my previous post (which I deleted as nothing 
was added).

I just wanted to celebrate the collective wisdom of this group in their 
generous advice to Justin.  What an incredible community and resource!
Cheers,
GAJett

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[RBW] Re: S24o Kit Evaluation

2017-02-01 Thread GAJett


On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 9:01:53 PM UTC-8, Justin August wrote:
>
> Doing the s24o thing this year. I'm wondering about my kit and what I'm 
> missing or taking extra. 
>
> - Grand Trunk Ultralight Hammock
> - Marmot Sawtooth (good to 15F)
> - Caldera Cone with Fosters Keg
> - GSI Soloist
> - Helix Dripper
> - Cheap camp mug
> - Kleen Kanteen hot thermos
> - KK Insulated Cold (on the bike)
> - Water Bottle Squeezable
> - Nalgene 32oz
> - Ibex Woolies 2 3/4 tights & 1 long johns
> - Darn tough socks for camp
> - 2-3 upper layers (wool, polartec)
> - Patagonia Nanopuff jacket
> - Wool beanie
> - Birkenstock clogs for camp
> - Various on bike top layers
>
> My questions are:
> Will I freeze without a thermarest or similar pad in my hammock?
> Rain fly?
> I'm thinking of bring ramen, salami, cheese, baguette and bars/peanut 
> butter. 
>
> I have it all except food crammed into my Carradice & Fromt Basket. I have 
> a Tubus Tara and Ortliebs to use if need be. 
>
> Any advice for a first timer?
>
> -Justin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: S24o Kit Evaluation

2017-01-31 Thread GAJett
Never done an S24O but a long time backpacker and long distance tourer.  My 
comments...
You don't say where you're going or the expected weather.  Has great 
bearing on gear selection.  My not knowing that, here I go.

- Caldera Cone with Fosters Keg
>
Are you experienced with this system?
 

> - GSI Soloist
>
 Take only those pieces you will actually use.  I generally take only a 
single pot and lid for cooking.  For an S24O simply bag up when done and 
take home to clean.

- Cheap camp mug
>
Eat out of this, clean with baguette, then your coffee as you drink it. (I 
use tea) It's now clean!
 

> - Kleen Kanteen hot thermos
> - KK Insulated Cold (on the bike)
> - Water Bottle Squeezable
> - Nalgene 32oz
>
FOUR water bottles!??  Are you dry camping?  Why two insulated bottles.
 

> - Ibex Woolies 2 3/4 tights & 1 long johns
>
Probably can get away with only one of these over an S24O
 

> - Darn tough socks for camp
>
Only one pair for an S24O unless you expect to get wet feet.
 

> - 2-3 upper layers (wool, polartec)
>
What do you mean by "upper layers"?  I follow this pattern:
* Base layer (something the equivalent of your Ibex bottoms
* Intermediate:  long sleeved camp shirt with roll-up sleeves. Nylon or 
poly for quick drying.
* Outer Layer:  Your Nanopuff.  I personally prefer wool or fleece 
(polartec).  If you go with wool or polartec, loose the Nanopuff.
* Waterproof layer (if will be really wet): Looks like the Nanopuff will 
handle routine mist/fog/light rain though.

- Patagonia Nanopuff jacket
> - Wool beanie
> - Birkenstock clogs for camp
>
 

> - Various on bike top layers
>
Follow Grant and ride in what you would regularly wear off the bike (with 
the possible exception of undies). 
A cycling jersey makes a very good base layer.
 

> My questions are:
> Will I freeze without a thermarest or similar pad in my hammock?
>
Probably.  The down will compress completely and provide essentially NO 
insulation.
 

> Rain fly?
>
At an absolute minimum pull a light groundsheet over you so it doesn't 
slide off.  You will likely want to keep the dew off you bag.   Can make 
morning packing quicker.  If any chance of rain or fog I would recommend a 
lightweight rainfly.  (Unless camping extensively above treeline I always 
carry such a fly.  My whole shelter kit, with room for two, weighs less 
than a pound.)
Cheers,
GAJett

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[RBW] Montana Legislator proposed banning bicycles on all two lane roads that don't have a shoulder

2017-01-21 Thread GAJett
Anyone planning a bicycling trip to Montana anytime soon?

http://lastbestnews.com/site/2017/01/bill-would-ban-bicyclists-from-most-2-lane-roads-in-state/

This would place Montana bicycling law at variance with laws in 49 other 
states and "violate" a VERY long-standing legal custom codifying bicycles 
as having the same rights and responsibilities as drivers of motor vehicles.
Cheers,
GAJett

Cross-posted from the Montana Randonneurs group.

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[RBW] Re: Crankset snafu and front derailleur conundrum

2016-12-30 Thread GAJett
My AHH runs a 24-41-44 chainset with an old SunTour Cyclone fd.  Shifting 
is perfectly adequate in upshifts over the 17 tooth change.  

My older Raleigh Competion sports a 26-49-52 chainset with a ancient Heuret 
Jubilee fd, perhaps the lightest and most delicate of front ders.  With 
gentle shifting there is no problem over the 23-tooth change. 

Note that both fd's are "racing" designs for double chainsets, not touring 
triple designs, as necessitated by the half-step + granny setup.  The major 
limitation is that I cannot use the smaller third of the rear cogs as the 
chain then rides on the bottom "tail" of the fd.  This is really not a 
problem, however, as these should not be used anyway due to cross-chaining 
and those being duplicates of gears available on the two larger chainrings.

As many others have commented, you should have no problem with a double.  
If you go to a triple, however, a more racing style fd may be needed so the 
inner cage plate doesn't interfere with the middle ring as you try to shift 
to the outer ring.

Cheers.

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[RBW] Re: Multi Use Path Etiquette

2016-12-28 Thread GAJett
I am mostly familiar with the MUPs of the East Bay Regional Park District 
in the SF Bay Area.  I almost always use my bell when approaching from the 
rear, and from the front if other users don't seem to be paying attention.  
I ring several times as I approach (e.g., ding-ding ding, ding-ding-ding, 
ding-ding-ding) before passing as far away as possible.  And I always say 
thank-you to those who move over, often getting a thanks in return.  If 
anyone is nasty, they still get the thank-you

Several rules for EBRPD trails that are relevant to this thread include:

*All Trail Users:* 

For everyone's safety, *keep to the right* (so no real reason to call out 
"on your left").

For your safety, headphones are not advised (but not prohibited -- this has 
consequences). 


*Bicycles: *

Bicycles shall not be ridden at an unsafe speed, or greater than the posted 
speed limit. (The speed limit is usually 15 mph. However even a walking 
pace could be considered an "unsafe speed" and a cyclist held responsible 
for an accident even if proceeding with the utmost caution.  As a corollary 
these trails are NOT for high speed training.  If you want to go faster 
then at least slow down when passing others, or find another venue.)

Bells are required on bicycles on Park District trails.  (I've known 
several people who have gotten tickets for not having bells!)

- Bicycles always yield to pedestrians. Before passing, SLOW DOWN, ring 
bell and establish verbal contact.  (Yes, slow down.  MUPs are for all 
users.  No one should use them in any way that endangers others.  But how 
do you establish verbal contact with the idiot on, for example, an 
i(diot)Phone with the volume turned up?


*Pedestrians: *

- Keep to the right when approached by others. (Again, stay to the right 
unless passing.)
- Look behind and to both sides before changing course.  (As mentioned 
elsewhere, runners are particularly bad about this.  I had one at the back 
of a large group literally turn on their toe to reverse direction.  I had 
slowed to a walking pace while waiting a chance to pass the group, so was 
able to stop.

Cheers.

On Tuesday, December 27, 2016 at 5:33:06 PM UTC-8, Tim wrote:
>
> Do you think it's ok, when riding on the path, if you can pass a 
> walker/runner/family, safely with 3 feet to spare, to go by without 
> warning? That means not saying "on your left" or something else, or not 
> ringing your bell if you have one. I ask because I was riding my Roadeo 
> today (50 degrees here in KC!) and it doesn't have a bell yet. A bell is my 
> much preferred method of warning that I'm there. But I find that many 
> people are startled by a bell just as much as "on your left." Or they have 
> earbuds in and don't here you. Also, my experience with "on your left" is 
> that 50% of the people who hear that, move to their left. I ALWAYS ride 
> with the knowledge that pedestrians have the right of way, NO MATTER WHAT. 
> I give a wide berth to others, really slow down when there's a family, and 
> try to smile and be friendly. But the more I think about it, it really 
> seems to me that a warning of any type only works with about half of the 
> people out there. On the other hand, I passed a woman one day without 
> warning her, she was on the far right and I was on the far left, at least 5 
> feet away, and she was pretty nasty about letting me know she didn't like 
> it. So sometimes it seems like you just can't win. What do you all think?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silent bell until needed/Using a bell

2016-12-28 Thread GAJett
My excitement was with a dog not off-leash.  Instead the dog was on one of 
those leashes on a reel that allow them to be 10 or 12 feet away from the 
owner.  Came around a nearly blind corner (having slowed anyway out of 
caution) and there was the dog on one side of the trail, the owner on the 
other, and the leash tight between.  Got stopped OK, then the owner yelled 
at the "dumb" dog. (Hint: It's not the dog that's dumb.)  Owner never said 
a word to me.  Could have  been really ugly if I was going faster.
Cheers.

On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 9:34:10 AM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Anecdote from a ride a few days ago: I was riding behind another cyclist 
> who I didn't know. Ahead of us, a man was walking his dog off leash. The 
> dog decided to walk across the bike trail into our path, forcing us to 
> brake quickly to slow down. The guy ahead of me on the bike then decided 
> that he needed to stop altogether so that he could chastise the dog owner 
> ... making an already bad situation even worse. I had to veer to avoid 
> running into him, the walker, and the dog.
>
> --Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

2016-12-07 Thread GAJett
I bought my Bean boots with optional shearling insoles.  See if such are 
still available.  Very comfortable working short term in Wyoming winters 
down to -45!  (Frost nipped my fingers shoveling snow with heavy ski gloves 
-- couldn't find my heavy mittens.)

Also narrower than the Sorels so more bike friendly.  Frequently rode down 
to -25 although not for long distances.  A favorite memory is riding in 6 
to 8 inches of fresh powder, the snow "exploding" off my feet at the bottom 
of every pedal stroke.  Actually quite beautiful!
Cheers,
GAJett

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[RBW] Re: Off topic-cold/wet boot recommendations

2016-12-07 Thread GAJett
A second (or third or ...) for either LLBean or Sorrell.  My problem with 
GorTex-type boots is my feet sweat a lot and I may as well wrap my feet in 
plastic bags.  My feet would be no less wet.

Deacon hits the nail on the head regarding leaving plenty of room.  Some 
people layer up on the socks then cram their feet into now too tight boots, 
thinking more socks will be warmer.  On the contrary, they have simply 
crushed all the air spaces from the socks leaving their feet much more 
prone to cold injuries.  It's the air spaces that hold the warmth, not the 
material of the fabric.  (Which is why fishnet base layers work so well ;-)

Cheers,
GAJett


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Re: [RBW] Re: Extreme long johns...

2016-12-07 Thread GAJett
Patrick, Mojo,
Thanks for the links!
Now if we could find a less expensive source than Brynje's for bottoms, as 
Deacon would also like, that would be even better.
Cheers

On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 7:15:30 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> So, cotton works well? Good to know, since cotton fishnet seems to be 
> readily available. 
>
> This? 
> https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Cotton-String-Fishnet-T-Shirt/dp/B00ZIAT82S
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Extreme long johns...

2016-12-06 Thread GAJett
I have used fishnet for over 45 years, and some of my current inventory 
dates to that time.  NOTHING compares to the flexibility of fishnet as a 
base layer.  Large air pockets create a very warm layer next to the skin, 
especially if the overlying layer fits closely.  Opening the outer layer 
allows you to dump warm air very quickly if you overheat, and this is the 
one outdoor garment where I PREFER COTTON!

Why cotton? Geez, everyone knows "cotton kills" the weather turns cold!  
But in this case so very little of the fishnet contacts your skin that the 
conductive heat loss typical of a moist cotton fabric simply does not 
apply.  And I find it more comfortable than the nylon or poly fishnets.

Many of my remaining fishnet tops were sourced from Eddie Bauer, when they 
still sold outdoor gear.  The bottoms died a decade ago when the flat 
fabric between the thighs gave up completely. I have purchased "womens" 
fishnet tops suitable for a base layer, but they tend to be too short in 
the torso.

I am not a fan of the Wiggy's product, based on what I have seen.  Nylon 
fabric, and so many apparent areas of flat fabric (e.g., over the knees) 
that would provide no insulating benefit just turn me off.  I have looked 
for alternate sources, finding one in Norway, but my e-mails went 
unanswered.

Fishnet longies simply ROCK. They beat standard high-tech long undies by a 
mile, and the typical mass market items by 10.  If anyone has sources in 
addition to Wiggy's I would REALLY like to know.
Cheers!

On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 4:19:05 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Fishnet. Wiggy’s (same company in Colorado that does Riv’s sleeping bag.
> http://www.wiggys.com/clothing-outerwear/fishnet-long-underwear/
>
> I just did this test of the top:
>
> It was newly washed, along with a HEAVY flannel cotton shirt, just wrung 
> out and still dripping wet. Put on my ventile shell, rode to WP in 10˚F, 
> with 40 mph winds on the descent. Not warm, but I wasn’t colder at any 
> point on the ride than when I first left the house.
>
> My head and hands with my yet to be fortified boiled wool hat and gloves 
> were chilly on the descent. 
>
> THAT’S impressive longjohning! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Road Standard - spreading the stays?

2016-11-13 Thread GAJett
The Retrogrouch posted a writeup on 753 tubing on the tenth (
http://bikeretrogrouch.blogspot.com/2016/11/classic-tubes-reynolds-753.html?m=1)
 
as part of his series on tubing.  Resetting the stays doesn't sound like a 
good idea, and may not be functionally possible.  Flexing them by "forcing" 
the 130 mm rear axle might still be acceptable as Eric Karnes implies.
Cheers!

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[RBW] blug notes

2016-11-10 Thread GAJett
I'm not a Twit either.

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[RBW] Re: Deacon Patrick update

2016-10-17 Thread GAJett
Bookmarked!
Thanks for the info.
Cheers

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 12:52:56 PM UTC-7, WETH wrote:
>
> Robert's thread "Saturday in Indiana" and his Hunqapillar put Deacon 
> Patrick on my mind.  Deacon and I exchanged emails this morning, and he 
> reports contentedly riding his Rivs around the beautiful Colorado 
> countryside.  He shared a link to the website on which he is currently 
> sharing his adventures and beautiful photos. He gave me permission to share 
> it with this group.  So, like me, if you miss his photographs and musings, 
> here is the place to find them: http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/
> Safe cycling to all,
> Erl

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[RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)

2016-10-12 Thread GAJett
For various reasons my main bikes, over 40 years, have always had the 
saddle slammed FORWARD.  On my AHH with a Nitto seatpost, the Brooks Pro is 
as far forward as possible.  My old Raleigh Competition came with a 
straight seatpost and separate saddle clamp.  In this case I was most 
comfortable with the saddle clamp FORWARD of the seatpost, instead of being 
behind.  This may have been the result of a too large frame and stem, but I 
find I like to be forward over the bottom bracket allowing me to spin more 
easily.  Further back I find I'm more of a stomper, which I've never 
liked.  I bike fitter would probably have a field day with my position (if 
not running away crying!).

On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 7:37:29 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long 
> time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) 
> saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an 
> upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles?
>
> I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, 
> because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a 
> racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was 
> confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I finally passed.
>
> The classic bolt upright ride seems to be the Raleigh DL-1, perhaps Dutch 
> city bikes (but I've no experience with them). Such slack angles, high bb 
> shell, and ends of grips practically bumping your knees. I've ridden many 
> such bikes and I've watched others ride them, and I know for a fact that 
> they very strongly discourage an energetic riding style -- if you try to 
> ride hard, you always (and I see others always) reposition the body to 
> negate the design -- lean forward, grab bar next to stem, sit on nose of 
> saddle).
>
> And then there's the gearing: stock on the DL-1 was 46/18 or 72 gi, iirc. 
> Even if 44/18, that's still 68". Even 68" on a very tall, 50 lb bike is 
> damned high.
>
> So the design must have been built with a (1) relaxed or energy conserving 
> and (2) ponderous or high torque/low rpm
>
> It's hard to understand why the DL-1 remained in production for so long; I 
> don't think that this extended product life can't be explained solely on 
> failing-socialist Indian and Chinese economic practices, or pure inertia.
>
> So something about this sort of riding position must work, and therefore 
> one presumes that Raleigh had worked out the riding style, and then the 
> position, and then the angles and lengths that were most efficient with 
> this position.
>
> Translate this into the upright Rivendells. These have low bbs, so that's 
> different; they also come with low gearing -- I get the impression that 
> these favor spinning, and not mashing?
>
> And the Rivs have startlingly long tts -- to countereffect the rearward 
> sweep of the bar and the slacker heads? So, this would mean a more 
> aggressive riding position, and therefore more spirited riding style, than 
> what the DL-1 was designed for.
>
> On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Eric Karnes  > wrote:
>
>> My guess that this is mostly a commentary on the use of fairly steep seat 
>> tube angles (73–75 degrees) on many road/sport/touring bikes from (very 
>> roughly) the 80s to present. This can make it very hard for some people to 
>> get a proper weight distribution without slamming the seat back, using an 
>> ultra-setback seatpost, or a combination of both. I had a mid-eighties Trek 
>> sport touring bike like this. I loved the way the frame rode, but the 73.5 
>> degree sta made it impossible for me to get comfortable.
>>
>> [...]
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 11, 2016 at 2:27:41 PM UTC-4, Belopsky wrote:
>>>
>>> [...]
>>> As a follow-up, I saw somewhere Grant writing that people like to slam 
>>> the seats ALL the way back - is this due to the upright bars / higher than 
>>> seat bars / upright posture on a bike?
>>>
>>
On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 7:37:29 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long 
> time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) 
> saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an 
> upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles?
>
> I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, 
> because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a 
> racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was 
> confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I finally passed.
>
> The classic bolt upright ride seems to be the Raleigh DL-1, perhaps Dutch 
> city bikes (but I've no experience with them). Such slack angles, high bb 
> shell, and ends of grips practically bumping your knees. I've ridden many 
> such bikes and I've watched others ride them, and I 

Re: [RBW] Re: VO vs Berthoud fenders

2016-10-02 Thread GAJett
Many thanks. This is very helpful.
Cheers,
GAJett

On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:39:47 PM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> My AHH is running 700 X 38 Compass Barlow PAas EL tires. The fenders are 
> 50mm VO Snakeskin(?). They required very little modification to fit. A 
> little at the chain stays and other than that, they bolted right on.
>
> On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:23:10 PM UTC-4, GAJett wrote:
>>
>> What size tires and what fender width are you running?  Rivendell put on 
>> the Schwalbe Marathon 650b x 42's when they built my AHH.  Rivbike shows 
>> these have an actual 37 mm width.  Wanting to know what fender width I can 
>> use and/or if I can go with a Compass 42 (Babyshoe Pass) or would need to 
>> stay with the 38 (Loup Loup Pass).
>> Cheers,
>> GAJett
>>
>> On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 8:40:17 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>>
>>> Here is a picture of the Hilsen with VO fenders and Berthoud Stays:
>>>
>>>
>>> <http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/bylar13/AHH/IMG_20160924_145417311_zpspwqgkwic.jpg>
>>>  
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO vs Berthoud fenders

2016-10-01 Thread GAJett
What size tires and what fender width are you running?  Rivendell put on 
the Schwalbe Marathon 650b x 42's when they built my AHH.  Rivbike shows 
these have an actual 37 mm width.  Wanting to know what fender width I can 
use and/or if I can go with a Compass 42 (Babyshoe Pass) or would need to 
stay with the 38 (Loup Loup Pass).
Cheers,
GAJett

On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 8:40:17 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> Here is a picture of the Hilsen with VO fenders and Berthoud Stays:
>
>
> <http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k292/bylar13/AHH/IMG_20160924_145417311_zpspwqgkwic.jpg>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: tire pressures

2016-09-13 Thread GAJett
Berto Tire Pressure App says 38 front, 52 rear.  So your 45 AVERAGE is spot 
on!  It just needs to be redistributed.
Cheers,
GAJett

On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 6:48:27 AM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> So if I am 175lbs., on 27.9 lbs. of Bleriot, with 5 lbs. of front baggage, 
> on 650b x 38mm Compass Loup Loup tires, at 45psi front and back, where does 
> that put me? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Is there a trick to reassembling center-pull brake calipers?

2016-07-03 Thread GAJett
>From the diagram you attached these look like near straight-up copies of 
the Weinmann centerpulls.  

* Assemble the brake arms loosely on the bridge, springs included, with the 
arms over-extended.  The cross-arms should be *below* the hooks an the 
bridge.
 If there is a tab near the center-line of one arm, and a slot on the 
other, make sure they are engaged.  These cannot be seen on the diagrams. 
* Place the springs in their proper positions against the hooks on the arms 
and the bridge.
* Work the arms, together, back into their proper alignment. You will need 
to "force" the arms up and over the "hooks".
* Once properly aligned tighten the pivot bolts to spec and your done.  You 
will need to hold the arms "closed" while you tighten.
  You may want to tighten from side to side to tighten slowly and check 
the alignment remains correct. 

The trick is to leave the arms loose enough so you can clear the hooks.  
The lower portion of the brake arms give you a huge mechanical advantage 
over trying to force the springs alone over the hooks.

I've torn those down many times and reassembled without problems, once I 
learned this trick.  If this doesn't work, then the only issue remaining 
would be trying to install the springs incorrectly.  Make sure they are in 
the right orientation?  Take a look at the brake you haven't disassembled 
for additional guidance.
gajett

On Saturday, July 2, 2016 at 10:04:05 PM UTC-7, Mark Wilkins wrote:
>
> I have some older Shimano Tourney center-pulls that I'm going to try 
> on my Ram.  I disassembled one of the brakes to clean it up a bit, and 
> now I simply cannot get it back together.  The problem is trying to 
> get both springs up under the hooks on the brake bridge. 
>
> Here are the brakes: 
>
> http://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=6928_imageViewsIndex=1 
>
> Anyone had to reassemble one of these?  Have any suggestions? 
>
> Thanks! 
>
> Mark 
>

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts on the whole low trail thing?

2016-06-16 Thread GAJett
Been riding my AHH about 4 years now.  Other than gearing, it's just a 
"stock" set up by Riv., including the Nitto F-15 / Barsack, Noodles, Rich 
wheels, and Schwalbe Marathons. I rarely carry more than 5 pounds up front, 
usually less.  I dare not take my hands off the handlebars of the Hilson as 
the shimmy starts immediately. And it doesn't matter if I have added weight 
on the rear.  

I previously rode an early-model Raleigh Competition in a size really too 
large for me.  Would commonly carry up to 10 pounds in a handlebar bag.  I 
sometimes add another 25 in front panniers.  Never a problem with shimmy or 
riding hands free. No real idea why as I don't know how the geometries 
compare. 
gajett

On Tuesday, June 14, 2016 at 3:24:31 PM UTC-7, Reed Kennedy wrote:
>
> I've been a Rivvy sorta guy for the last ten years, owning several of 
> their bikes and numerous others built up in Riv-inspired ways. Recently 
> I've been reading through back issues of Bicycle Quarterly, and back posts 
> on Jan Heine's blog. It's got me wondering about this whole 
> alternate-universe practical bike thing he describes, which seems to be 
> characterized by low trail steering geometry, flexible frames, and carrying 
> loads up front.
>
> I'd love to try it, but such bikes aren't exactly common. 
>
> Does anyone have experience with both Rivvy (mid-trail, burly rigid frame, 
> carrying stuff all over) and the more French rando / Jan sort of bike? What 
> did you think of each?
>
>
> Reed
>

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[RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

2016-06-09 Thread GAJett
Must agree with Michael.  Installed Bluemels years ago without much 
problem.  Several years ago installed SKS on a 26-inch utility bike.  Took 
over 3 hours, never got the alignment right, and a fender stay came loose, 
losing the hardware, within weeks of handing the bike over to a family 
member (who is admittedly rough on equipment).  I have little problems with 
other bike maintenance issues from cable replacement to wheel building, but 
that was my last set of SKS's.
gajett

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:22:49 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
> fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
> to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
> and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
> a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
>  You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
> fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
> in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
> years.
>
> Two years ago I bought a pair of the cream "longboys" to replace a broken 
> eight year old Honjo on my Ram.  At that time I discovered that SKS had 
> decided to make one small change and complicated installation immensely. 
>  The little plastic cap that fit over the end of the stay has been replaced 
> with an integrated plastic anchor.  Presumably these will keep the cap on 
> the stay, but they also require threading the stay while holding the screw 
> and bolt in place.  They also limit how far the stay can go past the bolt, 
> so that the stay must be cut before you get a good look at how long you 
> want them to be.  All together annoying. 
>
> Anyway, it turned out I didn't like the cream against the Ram blue, so I 
> replaced them with VO aluminum.  Yesterday I put those SKS fenders on my 
> daughters new Chevy-ut.  What a PIA.  The third time one or more of the 
> little stay bolts popped out all over the floor while I was trying to mate 
> up its sister I swore I would never work on plastic fenders again.  Then, 
> with the stays perhaps a few mm too long I struggled for a long time trying 
> simultaneously to line up the arch and remove a persistent twist.
>
> Give me a good metal fender any day.  They just require care, not three 
> hands and a box full of ambidextrous luck.
>
> BTW, just bar tape & kickstand to go on the Cheviut.  Hopefully pictures, 
> later today.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Triple to double crankset - how to do it gearwise?

2016-06-02 Thread GAJett
I've run HS+G for about 40 years after reading an article by Frank Berto(?) 
in Bicycling.  I still strongly prefer HS+G over any other gearing - a very 
wide range with little duplication.  
* When shifting between the large & middle rings I have ratios like a 
straight block racing cassette (yet without the duplication of a typical 
compact double);
* I can make whole step changes when accelerating or for more rapid changes 
in slope or wind;
* Yet can reach down to very low gears on steep hills (or completely 
bonked);
* Of the 27 available combinations, at least 20 can be used without 
duplications;
* An additional 4 combos are available on the small ring if I don't want to 
shift to the middle, giving 24 usable gears out of the 27. (I avoid 
cross-chaining).  

I started with 5-spd Regina freewheel, then 6-spd SunTour Ultra, now an 
off-the-shelf Shimano 9-spd cassette.  When I built my AHH Grant seemed to 
think I was nuts, but accommodated my wishes anyway,  installing a 41-tooth 
TA middle ring in place of the standard 36.

I think of the HS+G as a wide range double with the ability to "fine-tune" 
my cadence on the top end.  I probably ride 75% on the middle (41) 
chain-ring, 15% small (24) on hills & 10% on the large (44) on gently 
rolling flats (to keep my cadence comfortable, and, yeah, the small 
differences make a difference).  I don't shift between the large rings as 
much as Steve suggests, but the versatility is exceptional!

Here is my gear chart with shifting through the 20 practical available 
combinations.  The whole steps average about 15%, with 1/2 steps around 
7%.  I generally start in the 41x28 gear, shifting whole steps for most 
use, especially when accelerating from a stop. I use the 1/2 steps to fine 
tune my cadence with minor changes in slope or wind.  On hills I drop to 
the 24 chain-ring.  On hills I'm going to want whole steps anyway as slopes 
change often.  On the 24 I often shift as far as the 16 in the rear if I 
think a more gentle slope may not last, rather than doing the double shift 
from the 24x24 to the 41x36 across 3 cogs in the back (which you'll do 
anyway on a compact double).  Yeah, these are "duplicates" but it's 
sometimes more convenient to stay on the small.

+- Cassette cog tooth count 
+
|   1214  16  18  21  24  28  32
36  |
+---+
 44 |  94.4-(17)-80.970.862.953.947.240.535.4  
31.5 |
| \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / 
\ |
| (7) (6) (7) (5) (7) (9) (7) (6) (7) (9) (7) (6) 
(7)   |
|   \/  \/  \/  \/  \/  \/  
\   |
 41 |  88.0  75.466.058.650.344.037.7
33.0-(13)-29.3 |
|
(14)_/ |
|   
/   |
 24 |  51.5  44.138.634.329.4
25.7<-->22.1<-->19.3<>17.2 |
|   (17) (14)(13)(17)(14)(17)(14) 
(13)  |
+---+
   (x): percent change between gears

On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 9:30:19 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> So, I think this would work (although the Sheldon calculator has no 584 
> wheel size, I used 27" nominal as option):
>
> 24/40 with an (11-13-15-18-21-24-28-34) 8-speed cassette would give me the 
> ratios I need. That is like all the ratios of my current middle and outer 
> rings combined with similar jumps between cogs.
>
> I could not get wide enough ratios with a 7-speed without huge cog jumps, 
> so looks like I would have to use an 8-speed, but allowing good friction 
> shifting still.
>
> But that would give me the ratios I need in one big ring, with the 24 as 
> the bail out. Though the 6 cog jump to the largest cog looks like it might, 
> in practice be too much.
>
> Maybe I just need to stick with the triple. Too much thinking.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking advice: How to clean bartape off my Albatross bars

2016-05-20 Thread GAJett
Hellishly dangerous though!  Don't use near an open flame, like a gas-fired 
water heater. A friend spilled some once, the pilot light ignited it and 
burned down his parent's house.  Use outside and use solvent resistant 
gloves if you go this way.  Other options above, Goo-gone, Citri-solve, 
considerably safer. 

On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 7:18:10 PM UTC-7, bing.grosbeak wrote:
>
> Naptha / white gas / camp fuel / "coleman fuel" is a miracle-worker for 
> removing adhesive residue.  I've found that most other solvents just 
> require more elbow grease.  It's also pretty safe on paints and plastics, 
> so a good alternative to harsher solvents when you have to clean sticky 
> stuff off of those types of surfaces.
>
> -a
>
> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 7:52:13 AM UTC-7, Rob H. wrote:
>>
>> I've had this beat up set of Alba bars for a while, don't quite remember 
>> if they're the CrMo or Aluminum bars. At any rate, I've got tape on it from 
>> levers all the way to the center clamp. Now I've decided to put them on a 
>> new Clementine and want to change out the stem.
>>
>> Any pointers on how to clean off all the bar tape gunk that will be there?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: ...whereby a stone became caught up in his wheel

2015-07-31 Thread GAJett
Imagine this happening on a 100 kph descent.

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[RBW] Re: Tenkara Erandonee

2015-07-07 Thread GAJett
Not an easier way to carry fishing gear on a bicycle.  I lash my tenkara 
rod to the top tube, everything else goes in pockets or a butt bag.  About 
two minutes from dropping the bike by the water and having my line in the 
water.
Cheers,
GAJett

On Monday, July 6, 2015 at 9:26:11 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Gearing up for tenkara fishing on wee mountain streams. 


 https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/19474063151/in/dateposted-public/

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: Hilsen Overhaul

2014-11-08 Thread GAJett
Those are some pretty impressive breaks!
Took a look at the Gevenalle front.  It only has a 14-tooth capacity.  My 
old Superbe had 18, so works perfectly well on the current 17-tooth jump.  
On the old Raleigh, with the 23-tooth jump, it worked perfectly well as 
long as I didn't use the bottom 2 or 3 rear cogs.  On those small cogs the 
chain bottomed out on the cross-piece at the back of the cage.  I never 
went there anyway as the gear-train was selected so that those few gears on 
the 26-tooth cw were available on the 44 with the larger rear cogs.

The Gevenalle DOES look bomb-proof, but you may be limited on the use of 
your smallest rear cogs.
Cheers.

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[RBW] Re: Sackville Bar sack on front rack?.

2014-11-06 Thread GAJett
I am thinking about adding an accessory bar below the handlebars as a mount 
for the F15.  One example is the Thorn Accessory Bar T Shaped 55 mm 
Extension 
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-accessory-bar-t-shaped-55-mm-extension-0-deg-prod11041/?geoc=us
.
[image: Thorn Thorn Accessory Bar T Shaped 55 mm Extension - 0 Deg]
Other options may be available, or something hand-built to fit into the 
stack above the headset.
Cheers.

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen Overhaul

2014-11-06 Thread GAJett
What derailleurs have you been breaking?  

My Hilsen has a 44-41-24 triple setup. This originally came with a 
nondescript wide-range triple front derailleur, which shifted miserably. 

I then put on an old SunTour Supurbe racing derailleur.  This shifts like 
a dream on the 17-tooth jump from the small chainwheel.  

The Supurbe came off my old bike with a 49-44-26 TA chainset, where it also 
shifted quite well over the 23-tooth jump.  That old bike now has a old 
Huret Jubilee front derailleur, which is quite serviceable, despite the 
apparent delicacy, for a bike that doesn't get ridden much anymore.

Reading elsewhere I have found numerous comments that a standard racing 
double often works better for extreme jumps than a wide range triple.  This 
may be because the shorter cage is stiffer.  Your 14-tooth difference 
should present no problem.  An added benefit would be that the shorter cage 
would allow the front derailleur to sit closer to the outer chainring 
without interference with the chainstay.  An old Campy Record might do the 
trick.  The Shimano FD CX70 sold by Rivendell 
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/d14.htm might work as well for your wide 
double.
Cheers.

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Re: [RBW] OT pocket knives and mineral oil

2014-10-21 Thread GAJett
A better solution for your better knives might be Renaissance Wax. It was 
discussed on Oct 17 in a Field and Stream blog.  Advantages are that it is 
nearly permanent, contains no acids, requires no heating, and was 
originally developed by the British Museum for conservation of iron works 
of all kinds.  See 
http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/the-gun-nuts/keep-your-knives-and-guns-from-rusting-be-a-renaissance-man
.

To bring this back to on topic consider use to protect frame steel 
exposed by paint chips.  Safely display the beusage of your well-used 
frame.

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Re: [RBW] Fred Matheny roadbikerider.com Compass tire review...on a Roadeo!

2014-09-27 Thread GAJett
Three flats in two years from goatheads running the Marathon + smartguard 
on my Hilsen.  In all cases, they just missed the main tread, entering 
where the tread meets the sidewall.


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Re: [RBW] Fred Matheny roadbikerider.com Compass tire review...on a Roadeo!

2014-09-27 Thread GAJett
Years back I rode my bike through a field of goatheads at Brannan Island 
State Park in the California Delta.  No point in pulling the little buggers 
(100's!).  Just took off the tires  tubes and threw them away.  Cheaper to 
replace than to  use many dozen patch kits!  Not to mention hours of my 
time.
Cheers.

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[RBW] Re: Weight

2012-03-02 Thread GAJett
I'll worry about how much the bike weighs after I get 40 pounds off the 
engine ;-)
GAJett

On Thursday, March 1, 2012 11:15:37 PM UTC-8, HappyCamper wrote:

 I have a 64cm road bike and I just made the mistake of weighing it. 35 
 lbs. THIRTY. FIVE.

 It seems astronomical but is it? It's not like I have a dutch city bike 
 (well it IS Dutch but a touring bike). Is 35lbs excessive? I kept my pump, 
 an acorn bag, patch equipment and tools and fenders all on it.

 It's the same bike Iv'e posted before...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryanrray/6747584237/in/photostream 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Can I rant just a minute?

2012-01-01 Thread GAJett
I've ridden a Brooks Pro for years, first on a Raleigh Competition 
(replacing the original B-17) and now on an AHH.  It has NEVER hurt me, 
even when new, the way other saddles have.  And it has never seen the 
business end of any blunt instrument (other than my bum).

BTW my gearing is a half-step + granny:
front:  44 / 41 / 24
rear:  12 / 14 / 16 / 18 / 21 / 24 / 28 / 32 / 36.
This gives a gear range from 18.2 to 100.2 inches on 650Bs.  It'll climb 
just about anything where I can keep the front wheel down, and I can keep 
climbing when bonked.

This is based on a standard Shimano cassette from RBW and a special 
combination of chainwheels with Sugino 44 and 24 ordered from RBW and the 
41 a TA from Harris Cyclery.  Kudos for Grant and the RBW staff from 
setting this up.

For those not familiar with the half-step + granny you can consider this 
to be a compact double with the ability to fine-tune the gearing on the 
high side between the large chainwheels.  I've ridden this type of gearing 
for 30 years and wouldn't change for anything!  (Originally a TA 49 / 46 / 
26 by SunTour Ultra 13 / 15 / 17 / 20 / 23 / 26 102 to 27 inches -- I'm 
getting older.)
Cheers.

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