[RBW] Re: Rust-proofing your frames

[Geoffrey]

I've gone through a couple cans of frame saver and I've gone through many 
cans of motorcycle chain lube and I tell you they look, smell and feel the 
nearly identical.  I haven't used it yet on a frame but I'm sure it'll 
work, I'm going to try on my next steel build. 
For the exterior, I put a heavy coat of car wax on and then don't wipe it 
off or polish at all.  I do that in the spring.

On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 10:08:23 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Today I rode to work in the sloppiest snowy junk in a while. Despite being 
> -18C, it was still slush due to all the de-icer on the streets. It sticks 
> to my frame like glue and makes me worried about it rusting to pieces. 
> Particularly as I was in my LBS yesterday looking at an IRO steel frame 
> that had two big long holes on the inside of each chain stay after ten 
> years of riding. My Atlantis is 10 years old this year.. I hope to keep it 
> MUCH longer. 
>
> What do you guys use for internal rust inhibitors? I can't get JPW 
> Framesaver here without paying up the arse for shipping. Thinking about 
> linseed oil, though I've heard it's a real mess. Any tips? Fluid Film rust 
> inhibitor spray is available locally and is a mix of wax and oil. Also have 
> heard Amsoil HDMP is good, but seems tricky to find here as well. 
>
>
>
> 
> (Also I know fenders would help. But they aren't an option at the moment, 
> just looking for rust prevention)
>

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[RBW] Re: Smart Guys: Bicycle Helmets Reduce Injuries

[Geoffrey]

I haven't looked at the article but I will.  I do want to say that I'm not 
entrenched in any position aside from freedom of choice and please, don't 
proselytize. 

On Sunday, November 22, 2015 at 9:02:05 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Not that this is going to change a single mind on the subject, but it is 
> perhaps of interest to some:
>
> https://www.facs.org/media/press-releases/2015/haider 
>
> And yes, I realize that the helmet and non-helmet camps have firmly 
> established their entrenched positions, which have been expressed many 
> times on this forum.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Was a 55cm double top tube Hillborne ever made?

[Geoffrey]

I agree that they might look cool but no reason to have a 2nd top tube IMO. 
 I have a single tube AHH in 67cm and it rides just fine...

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Re: [RBW] Re: The "new" triple on my Cheviot -- does the big ring look worn out to you?

[Geoffrey]

What has been your experience with longevity?  I usually get about 10,000 
miles out of an aluminum chain ring before it needs to be replaced.  I 
usually get around 3,000 miles out of a chain and usually go through two 
chains before changing a cassette.  Often times I'll replace the cassette 
even if the guage says it's still ok because I notice a difference in the 
quality of the shift. 

On Monday, November 16, 2015 at 4:55:49 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> If those chain rings are new -- as I think they are -- then barring 
> gross abuse they should last far longer than "a couple of chains and 
> cassettes". 
>
> On 11/16/2015 04:26 PM, Geoffrey wrote: 
> > The chainrings you showed will usually last a couple of chains and 
> > cassettes as long as you don't bind them up too often, i.e. big in the 
> > front, big in the back. 
>
>

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[RBW] Old Riv, thin wool hats that came in blue, green, red, etc...

[Geoffrey]

Hey guys,


I lost my green one but I still have a blue and red one.  I got online to 
re-up and was bummed out to see that they are no longer carrying them.  I 
like them because they're thin, they're warm and they're longer than a 
beenie so you can either pull is way down in the back and the front or you 
can fold it up and have a cuff.  Does anyone know where I can still find 
these or something very similar?  I liked the different color options, most 
other manufactures just offer black and they're usually thicker or a 
beanie.  Here is a pic of my well loved, blue one: 

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[RBW] Re: The "new" triple on my Cheviot -- does the big ring look worn out to you?

[Geoffrey]

Since we're talking about wear though, you may as well get one of these 
tools and use it.  One side indicates when it's time to change your chain, 
the other tells you if your cassette is shot or not.  The chainrings you 
showed will usually last a couple of chains and cassettes as long as you 
don't bind them up too often, i.e. big in the front, big in the back.

On Monday, November 16, 2015 at 3:14:05 PM UTC-6, Geoffrey wrote:
>
> That chain ring and the others look brand new to me or nearly brand new, 
> very low mileage.  When they're worn, they all hook over in one position. 
>  You have nothing to worry about in the wear department.
>
> On Sunday, November 15, 2015 at 12:58:08 PM UTC-6, Lynne Cooney wrote:
>>
>> So, I'm pretty mad in general at the shop that "built" my Cheviot. Both 
>> shifters were loose, one loose enough to fall out on the way home, the 
>> tires are too big for the fenders, the wrong front derailleur was 
>> installed, making shifting to the small ring nearly impossible. And the 
>> front fender was installed incorrectly. I was more than a bit taken aback 
>> by the warning "don't ride over any sticks." The headlight was also aimed 
>> up so that it shined into 2nd floor windows on my ride home. I don't expect 
>> perfection, but WTF? They tightened the shifters and replaced the FD.
>>
>> So, they offered to replace the too big tires and the fenders. Not 
>> letting them near the fenders because Aaron's Bicycle Repair reinstalled 
>> the front correctly. But I was looking at the cranks today because I have 
>> new pedals and the big ring looks disturbingly worn to me. Am I wrong?
>>
>> So not cool. This is supposed to be a good shop. I hope I'm wrong, but I 
>> don't think I am.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: The "new" triple on my Cheviot -- does the big ring look worn out to you?

[Geoffrey]

That chain ring and the others look brand new to me or nearly brand new, 
very low mileage.  When they're worn, they all hook over in one position. 
 You have nothing to worry about in the wear department.

On Sunday, November 15, 2015 at 12:58:08 PM UTC-6, Lynne Cooney wrote:
>
> So, I'm pretty mad in general at the shop that "built" my Cheviot. Both 
> shifters were loose, one loose enough to fall out on the way home, the 
> tires are too big for the fenders, the wrong front derailleur was 
> installed, making shifting to the small ring nearly impossible. And the 
> front fender was installed incorrectly. I was more than a bit taken aback 
> by the warning "don't ride over any sticks." The headlight was also aimed 
> up so that it shined into 2nd floor windows on my ride home. I don't expect 
> perfection, but WTF? They tightened the shifters and replaced the FD.
>
> So, they offered to replace the too big tires and the fenders. Not letting 
> them near the fenders because Aaron's Bicycle Repair reinstalled the front 
> correctly. But I was looking at the cranks today because I have new pedals 
> and the big ring looks disturbingly worn to me. Am I wrong?
>
> So not cool. This is supposed to be a good shop. I hope I'm wrong, but I 
> don't think I am.
>

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[RBW] Re: MUSA Pants?

[Geoffrey]

This site cracks me up sometimes.  While people were speculating about the 
Sterling being a Bilenky and complaining about the quality of the pictures, 
I was buying it for 200 bucks.  (still haven't gotten it but she's coming!)
A couple of days ago, I checked the Riv site and saw they had very few 
sizes.  Instead of lamenting the fact and jumping to conclusions, I emailed 
Keisha who in turn said "I dunno" and brought Vince in to our conversation, 
this is what he said:

Hi Geoff,

 

We will be getting more in January. There are some extra stock of the pants 
around here. Please let me know what size you take and I can let you know 
if any are available.

 

Best regards,

Vince




then I inquired if they were going to be tapered like the second version 
(which I didn't like, much preferred the straighter legged ones) and this 
is what he said:




The new ones we'll be getting will not have a taper. The only ones we have 
around here are tapered and have a zipper closure at the bottom. Let me 
know if you're interested in the tapered ones, otherwise we'll have more 
January.

 

Best regards,

Vince

On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 6:14:12 AM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>
> That is indeed sad news -- but in the meanwhile take those hole-y MUSAs to 
> your local alteration tailor -- I had a hole in a pair, did so, and now 
> they're patched, can't tell at all from >3 ft away, and it was only $5! 
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 24, 2015 at 8:30:22 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:
>>
>> Just got back from a 10 day cycle camping trip around Glacier NP where my 
>> MUSA pants performed wonderfully.  That is until I managed to burn a hole 
>> in one of them.  
>>
>> So I went to the RBW site figuring I would buy a new pair or two only to 
>> see none there.
>>
>> Hoping this is a temporary.  I do not recall any recent Blug posts on 
>> point.  Anyone know what's up?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: MUSA Pants?

[Geoffrey]

apologies, I was on a different "site" re: the Sterling / Bilenky :)  My 
"bad"


On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 1:26:20 PM UTC-5, Geoffrey wrote:
>
> This site cracks me up sometimes.  While people were speculating about the 
> Sterling being a Bilenky and complaining about the quality of the pictures, 
> I was buying it for 200 bucks.  (still haven't gotten it but she's coming!)
> A couple of days ago, I checked the Riv site and saw they had very few 
> sizes.  Instead of lamenting the fact and jumping to conclusions, I emailed 
> Keisha who in turn said "I dunno" and brought Vince in to our conversation, 
> this is what he said:
>
> Hi Geoff,
>
>  
>
> We will be getting more in January. There are some extra stock of the 
> pants around here. Please let me know what size you take and I can let you 
> know if any are available.
>
>  
>
> Best regards,
>
> Vince
>
>
>
>
> then I inquired if they were going to be tapered like the second version 
> (which I didn't like, much preferred the straighter legged ones) and this 
> is what he said:
>
>
>
>
> The new ones we'll be getting will not have a taper. The only ones we have 
> around here are tapered and have a zipper closure at the bottom. Let me 
> know if you're interested in the tapered ones, otherwise we'll have more 
> January.
>
>  
>
> Best regards,
>
> Vince
>
> On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 6:14:12 AM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>>
>> That is indeed sad news -- but in the meanwhile take those hole-y MUSAs 
>> to your local alteration tailor -- I had a hole in a pair, did so, and now 
>> they're patched, can't tell at all from >3 ft away, and it was only $5! 
>>
>> Julian Westerhout
>> Bloomington, IL 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, September 24, 2015 at 8:30:22 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:
>>>
>>> Just got back from a 10 day cycle camping trip around Glacier NP where 
>>> my MUSA pants performed wonderfully.  That is until I managed to burn a 
>>> hole in one of them.  
>>>
>>> So I went to the RBW site figuring I would buy a new pair or two only to 
>>> see none there.
>>>
>>> Hoping this is a temporary.  I do not recall any recent Blug posts on 
>>> point.  Anyone know what's up?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: MUSA Pants?

[Geoffrey]

Ron, they have more of the original style pants coming in January.


On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 1:33:01 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I will be disappointed without them - that's all I wear to bike, shorts or 
> knickers, and the long pants are for winter bumming and cool-weather 
> kayaking.  Part of Rivendell's problem must be that they last so long. 
>
> On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 1:27:15 PM UTC-5, Geoffrey wrote:
>>
>> apologies, I was on a different "site" re: the Sterling / Bilenky :)  My 
>> "bad"
>>
>>
>> On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 1:26:20 PM UTC-5, Geoffrey wrote:
>>>
>>> This site cracks me up sometimes.  While people were speculating about 
>>> the Sterling being a Bilenky and complaining about the quality of the 
>>> pictures, I was buying it for 200 bucks.  (still haven't gotten it but 
>>> she's coming!)
>>> A couple of days ago, I checked the Riv site and saw they had very few 
>>> sizes.  Instead of lamenting the fact and jumping to conclusions, I emailed 
>>> Keisha who in turn said "I dunno" and brought Vince in to our conversation, 
>>> this is what he said:
>>>
>>> Hi Geoff,
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> We will be getting more in January. There are some extra stock of the 
>>> pants around here. Please let me know what size you take and I can let you 
>>> know if any are available.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Best regards,
>>>
>>> Vince
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> then I inquired if they were going to be tapered like the second version 
>>> (which I didn't like, much preferred the straighter legged ones) and this 
>>> is what he said:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The new ones we'll be getting will not have a taper. The only ones we 
>>> have around here are tapered and have a zipper closure at the bottom. Let 
>>> me know if you're interested in the tapered ones, otherwise we'll have more 
>>> January.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Best regards,
>>>
>>> Vince
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 6:14:12 AM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>>>>
>>>> That is indeed sad news -- but in the meanwhile take those hole-y MUSAs 
>>>> to your local alteration tailor -- I had a hole in a pair, did so, and now 
>>>> they're patched, can't tell at all from >3 ft away, and it was only $5! 
>>>>
>>>> Julian Westerhout
>>>> Bloomington, IL 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, September 24, 2015 at 8:30:22 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Just got back from a 10 day cycle camping trip around Glacier NP where 
>>>>> my MUSA pants performed wonderfully.  That is until I managed to burn a 
>>>>> hole in one of them.  
>>>>>
>>>>> So I went to the RBW site figuring I would buy a new pair or two only 
>>>>> to see none there.
>>>>>
>>>>> Hoping this is a temporary.  I do not recall any recent Blug posts on 
>>>>> point.  Anyone know what's up?
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Show me your Garage/Workshop/Cave/Storage Spaces

[Geoffrey]

I'll try to post a pic later.  I have a friend who's bike store is pretty 
small.  He was smart and has the bike stands coming down from the ceiling. 
 I'd do something similar if I could and have a t-handle with a spring 
loaded detent I could pull to remove if I didn't want it hanging from the 
ceiling. 


On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 12:11:49 PM UTC-5, drew wrote:
>
>
> for the first time in my life, i am moving to a place with a garage. 
> 1.5ish car size, stand alone, all wood. i have been gifted the use of it by 
> my spouse, who just asks that we keep camping stuff and luggage up in the 
> rafters.  im very excited, but also in need of some ideas and inspiration 
> for how to make the space great. I figured that there must be some 
> crossover of people who appreciate rivendells and people who appreciate a 
> nicely designed and set up workshop. 
>
> it'll house 4-5 bikes and i want to set up part of the space for working 
> on them. but also have an area for sitting with music, maybe a mini fridge, 
> and a general making/tinkering area minus any large power tools. 
>
> i'd like to see pictures of your space first and foremost, but im also 
> interested in...
>
> -small space problem solving storage things
> -bike storage techniques and specific brand recommendations
> -general style points or clever add ons
> -workbenches
> -links to sites highlighting this sort of thing
> -other stuff im forgetting.
>
> in the past, all of the things that would fall into this category have 
> been housed in bedrooms, closets, porches and cardboard boxes, so im flying 
> blind.
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Brifters on Noodles?

[Geoffrey]

Shoot, I just saw your email.  I'll respond and will bring the bars to work 
in case you want them so I can ship.

On Saturday, July 11, 2015 at 5:25:34 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

 PM sent, Geoffrey. I was kinda on the fence about going ahead with this, 
 or sticking with the current setup longer to see if I adapt to it. A used 
 set of Noodles would be great.

 Joe Bernard

 On Saturday, July 11, 2015 at 6:11:24 AM UTC-7, Geoffrey wrote:

 Noodles have a 95mm reach.  If you haven't bought some yet Joe, I have a 
 pair I'm trying to part with.



 On Friday, July 10, 2015 at 11:18:54 PM UTC-5, William deRosset wrote:

 Dear Joe,

 Check the reach of the bars. The noodles are a pretty-normal 90mm reach, 
 140mm drop. If the Salsa bars have a shorter reach, then the levers will be 
 farther away on the noodle than they were on the Salsa. In practice, I use 
 the bulge-formed noodle bar and the Compass 1970's bend bars(115/125). I 
 have to adjust the stem length, but they're both lovely bars with Ergo and 
 Doubletap levers.

 Best,

 Will
 William M. deRosset
 Fort Collins, CO

 On Thursday, July 9, 2015 at 5:34:26 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I picked up a Bike Friday a few weeks ago, my first dropbar bike in 10 
 years. I'm liking the Shimano Sora brifters enough to stick with them for 
 a 
 while (a vast improvement over the first-gen 9-speed Ultegras I tried 
 years 
 ago), but the 42cm Salsa bars just ain't cuttin' it. My last dropbars were 
 44cm Noodles, which I loved. My concern is that being slightly wider, with 
 a long ramp, might make the reach to pushing those shifters sideways a bit 
 long. Does anyone here have experience with this setup? 

 Thanks,
 Joe click click Bernard
 Vallejo, CA. 



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[RBW] Re: Rivet review?

[Geoffrey]

I have three Rivet pearl seats.  I'm obviously a fan.  The leather is 
thicker than a brooks (I have one that is well broken in) but once the 
Rivet breaks in (quicker than a brooks btw) it seems much softer.  I ride 
mine with 2 degrees nose up.  Great saddles.

On Saturday, July 11, 2015 at 12:11:23 AM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:

 Too bad they don't make a sprung saddle.

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[RBW] Re: Brifters on Noodles?

[Geoffrey]

Noodles have a 95mm reach.  If you haven't bought some yet Joe, I have a 
pair I'm trying to part with.



On Friday, July 10, 2015 at 11:18:54 PM UTC-5, William deRosset wrote:

 Dear Joe,

 Check the reach of the bars. The noodles are a pretty-normal 90mm reach, 
 140mm drop. If the Salsa bars have a shorter reach, then the levers will be 
 farther away on the noodle than they were on the Salsa. In practice, I use 
 the bulge-formed noodle bar and the Compass 1970's bend bars(115/125). I 
 have to adjust the stem length, but they're both lovely bars with Ergo and 
 Doubletap levers.

 Best,

 Will
 William M. deRosset
 Fort Collins, CO

 On Thursday, July 9, 2015 at 5:34:26 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I picked up a Bike Friday a few weeks ago, my first dropbar bike in 10 
 years. I'm liking the Shimano Sora brifters enough to stick with them for a 
 while (a vast improvement over the first-gen 9-speed Ultegras I tried years 
 ago), but the 42cm Salsa bars just ain't cuttin' it. My last dropbars were 
 44cm Noodles, which I loved. My concern is that being slightly wider, with 
 a long ramp, might make the reach to pushing those shifters sideways a bit 
 long. Does anyone here have experience with this setup? 

 Thanks,
 Joe click click Bernard
 Vallejo, CA. 



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[RBW] Trying to help a friend with his RAM, what are the largest fenders you can run and largest tires?

[Geoffrey]

Hey Guys and gals,

I've been searching and found a couple things regarding my question.  I 
found Leslie's bike that has 45mm fenders and pasela 32's.  Does anyone run 
Compass tires 32's and some fenders?  Is it possible?  Leslies comment that 
there isn't even enough room for a twig or small piece of gravel raised 
concern.  That doesn't sound very practical.  Maybe someone else's fenders 
fit better and allow for 32's and some clearance?  Any info or help would 
be appreciated!

Thanks,

Geoff

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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank

[Geoffrey]

That radius cut ends right where the crack begins which is what I'd expect. 
 That radius is there to relieve stress. Maybe a larger radius would help. 
 Im more heavy duty applications, that area would be shot peened to relieve 
more stress.  Glad that it happened at a red light and that VO is giving 
you great service.

On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 2:31:07 AM UTC-6, Benedikt wrote:

 I seem to remember seeing a similar post to this a few weeks/months ago 
 but here it is ...
 My VO crank that had 13,000 miles on it busted this morning on my way into 
 work. I was at a stop. Pushed down with my right foot, locked my left clip 
 in, pushed down with the right and clunk crank arm came right off. 
 Fortunately I wasn't going that fast, hammering down the road. What causes 
 this? Do ALL cranks have a life span? These are an aluminum alloy. 
 Here's a pretty good picture of the break - 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/neutralbuoyancy/16320815710/

 - Brian in Seattle


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[RBW] Re: No more MUSA shorts?!?!?!

[Geoffrey]

A little off topic but still related.  MUSA pants, I like the old straight 
leg ones so much more than the new tapered ones.  I've pretty much worn 
them all out though. 

On Friday, February 13, 2015 at 6:30:35 PM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 Grant addressed it on the blog today. He says they have grey, green and 
 black. They're back on the site today but you can only choose black right 
 now. 

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[RBW] Re: Tall/big boys wool jersey sale of this and any other century.

[Geoffrey]

The prices are more than fair and the poster / seller is a great guy!

On Tuesday, February 10, 2015 at 1:12:03 PM UTC-6, pb wrote:



 On Tuesday, February 10, 2015 at 2:39:58 AM UTC-8, Peter Adler wrote:



 http://www.ebay.com/sch/rgz4ams/m.html?item=291378019737hash=item43d77bbd99pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0rt=nc_trksid=p2047675.l2562


 I'm wondering if those sizes run really small.  For reference:

 http://procyclegear.com/cynar-wool-retro-jersey/

 That page also leads me to think that the seller's pricing is fair, even 
 if he's not being helpful by putting measurements on the auctions.

 ~pb
 (Drinks Cynar, but probably doesn't need a Cynar jersey) 


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[RBW] Re: Thinking of going with a raw clear powdercoat

[Geoffrey]

One thing you could do is keep sanding and polishing until it's at a point 
that you like.  Heck, you could make it look like chrome.  No need to send 
to the powder coater, try P.C. Glisten, self leveling clear coat.  It dries 
unbelievably hard and is very easy to use. 

On Tuesday, August 21, 2012 at 1:41:57 PM UTC-5, Bruce Baker wrote:

 Has anyone taken their Sam Hillborne, stripped it and gone with a clear 
 powder coat??  Would there be any downside to this??
 I really like the looks of the protovelos I've seen and think it would be 
 interesting have a Sam like that.  Any thoughts or comments??
 Bruce





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Re: [RBW] Re: One drawback to flippin' your bike for roadside repair.

[Geoffrey]

No need to flip a bike IMO

On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 6:44:33 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:

 not me, the only time I've ever flipped my bike has been indoors on the 
 carpet

 On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 8:07:40 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 Wait, y'all flip your bikes upside down to change a tire?

 On Mon, Jan 26, 2015 at 6:06 PM, BSWP asht...@gmail.com wrote:

 Not if you run M-bars or Albastaches...or anything besides drops with 
 non-aero levers. Just saying...

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 5:49:03 PM UTC-8, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Another reason why this is, in my book, a faux pas (sorry Willard!) 
 is- if you're running retrogrouch-approved non-aero brakes, you'll put 
 that awful crimp in the cables. 

 A notable example of this crime-in-progress from BITD appears on the 
 cover of Richard's Bicycle Book, IIRC! 
 =- Joe Bunik 
 Walnut Creek, CA 

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 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal



  

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[RBW] Re: Dumber than my derailer!

[Geoffrey]

If the other suggestions don't work, I'd measure the chain line to see if 
you're in tolerance.

On Monday, January 19, 2015 at 4:58:53 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I can’t seem to get my front derailer sorted properly. In it’s current 
 cable tension/screw settings it takes up 80% of the shift range in the big 
 ring, and goes to the middle at 90% pushed down and the granny at 100% 
 pushed down. I’d rather spread that out evenly but can’t get there and have 
 increased my drain bammage trying to follow the books.

 What magic answers do you all have in the derailers for dummies category? 
 Grin. 

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: Dumber than my derailer!

[Geoffrey]

Also, I'd start put it in the smallest chainring, release all tension on 
the adjuster nut and start from scratch.  This way you can at least check 
the limit screw.  Then pull the cable with your hand all the way to the big 
ring and set that limit screw.  Then you can start to add tension to the 
cable itself.  When you're chain line is off, your front derailleur won't 
work nicely, that's what I'd check next.  From the middle chain ring to the 
center of your seat tube, you should be around 45mm.

On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 6:42:15 AM UTC-6, Geoffrey wrote:

 If the other suggestions don't work, I'd measure the chain line to see if 
 you're in tolerance.

 On Monday, January 19, 2015 at 4:58:53 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I can’t seem to get my front derailer sorted properly. In it’s current 
 cable tension/screw settings it takes up 80% of the shift range in the big 
 ring, and goes to the middle at 90% pushed down and the granny at 100% 
 pushed down. I’d rather spread that out evenly but can’t get there and have 
 increased my drain bammage trying to follow the books.

 What magic answers do you all have in the derailers for dummies category? 
 Grin. 

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: Just Completed: 68cm Rambouillet 650b Land Yacht

[Geoffrey]

Nice job Kieran!  It obviouly found a very good home!  

On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 2:16:59 PM UTC-6, Kieran J wrote:

 Hi Alls,

 After having a too-small 66cm Ram in 700c for a bit, I recently acquired a 
 68cm frameset from listmember Geoff Wendt (thanks Geoff!). I proceeded to 
 build it up in a 650b Alba-barred all-rounder. Something like a pimp pearl 
 orange Cadillac. If that doesn't get your juices flowing, I don't know what 
 will.

 The build includes Compass Babyshoe Pass tires, Grand Bois/A23 wheelset, 
 Albas, 130mm Tallux stem, VO 50.4 BCD double, and a couple of Riv bags.

 It just needs bar tape at this point. I have about 4 months to complete 
 that task, so no rush. It's early January and I've already finished my 
 winter project. That's a dangerous spot to be in.

 Check it out here:
 Flickr Set 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/70712473@N05/sets/72157650235648021

 I'm also looking for an Acorn Handlebar Bag to hang on the bars. I had 
 one in my Acorn shopping cart a week ago, but I was thwarted by their 
 anti-Canadian shipping policy. Drop me a line if you have one to sell. 

 Cheers,

 Kieran
 Toronto, Canada




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[RBW] FS, Nitto Lugged Stem 120mm

[Geoffrey]

In good shape, $110 shipped.  

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[RBW] Re: Bike crash and question on hematoma healing

[Geoffrey]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MNTLOBc-VBA/VLVAnzMtYuI/BrY/TMTrR1xB3lA/s1600/wreck.jpg
I don't see why you can't be up and running again fairly soon.  I guess it 
also depends on drive and age.  I did this on a dirtbike in the spring and 
went and raced a 120 mile enduro the next weekend.  This was before the 
hematoma really set it, only about an hour after the wreck.  Later you 
could actually see tire marks up my back.  I'd say give it a week or two of 
rest and then pedal away.  Better your leg than your butt IMO something 
that you sit on, on a bicycle. 

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MNTLOBc-VBA/VLVAnzMtYuI/BrY/TMTrR1xB3lA/s1600/wreck.jpg


On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 4:30:47 PM UTC-6, DS wrote:

 Who here has had the unfortunate experience to get a hematoma on their 
 thigh from a crash? and how long did it take you to recover and start 
 riding?

 Crashed hard yesterday on my hunqapilar. (got a flat, replaced the tube, 
 way underinflated it, then a little while later I lost traction on a sharp 
 turn and skidded and crashed on the pavement, helmet saved my life, wear 
 your damn helmets!)

 Doctor said weeks to months. Various internet threads seem to confirm the 
 same. But you guys and girls are smarter than various internet threads ;)

 Hunqapillar is fine, not sure about those brand new big ben tires though. 
 I'm going back to Smart Sams.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike crash and question on hematoma healing

[Geoffrey]

The part that always freaks me out is how your skin feels like a water 
balloon.


On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 10:29:55 AM UTC-6, DS wrote:

 Wow, agreed! My swelling is already down some, hopefully in a week or so 
 I'll be up and running, super sharp pains though which i'm guessing are 
 muscle tears.

 On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 7:58 AM, Geoffrey rin...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MNTLOBc-VBA/VLVAnzMtYuI/BrY/TMTrR1xB3lA/s1600/wreck.jpg
 I don't see why you can't be up and running again fairly soon.  I guess 
 it also depends on drive and age.  I did this on a dirtbike in the spring 
 and went and raced a 120 mile enduro the next weekend.  This was before the 
 hematoma really set it, only about an hour after the wreck.  Later you 
 could actually see tire marks up my back.  I'd say give it a week or two of 
 rest and then pedal away.  Better your leg than your butt IMO something 
 that you sit on, on a bicycle. 


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MNTLOBc-VBA/VLVAnzMtYuI/BrY/TMTrR1xB3lA/s1600/wreck.jpg


 On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 4:30:47 PM UTC-6, DS wrote:

 Who here has had the unfortunate experience to get a hematoma on their 
 thigh from a crash? and how long did it take you to recover and start 
 riding?

 Crashed hard yesterday on my hunqapilar. (got a flat, replaced the tube, 
 way underinflated it, then a little while later I lost traction on a sharp 
 turn and skidded and crashed on the pavement, helmet saved my life, wear 
 your damn helmets!)

 Doctor said weeks to months. Various internet threads seem to confirm 
 the same. But you guys and girls are smarter than various internet threads 
 ;)

 Hunqapillar is fine, not sure about those brand new big ben tires 
 though. I'm going back to Smart Sams.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Coldest Ride on a Rivendell Ever?

[Geoffrey]

I have the fasterkatt shoes, I wish I could find teh wolvhammer boots in my 
size, on the shelf, everyone seems sold out of size 13.  

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 11:13:50 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Bob,

 In terms of what I wore for -40, here's my standard 'really cold' getup:

 Feet: Really thick wool socks, made by Wigwam and supposedly rated to -40. 
 I only wear one pair of thick socks, as stuffing extra socks into the boots 
 removes valuable air space which is essential for insulating. I sometimes 
 throw a chemical toe-warmer in there as well.

 Shoes: 45NTH Wolvhammer boots

 Legs: Sugoi winter leggings. These are traditional cycling leggings with a 
 chamois. I wear them primarily because they are insulated and have a full 
 wind-proof front which goes up to just below my chest. Over that, I had a 
 pair of wool long underwear. Over those, I wore some MEC Roubaix winter 
 cycling tights. Then last, a pair of knickers to keep the goofy tights-look 
 somewhat at bay, as well as add one final windproof layer over the family 
 jewels.

 Upper: First a thin synthetic base layer. This should be replaced soon 
 with merino as it smells, hah! Then a cycling jersey, used only so I can 
 make use of the tri-pockets in the back, which I use to keep food and water 
 warm next to my body. Then a Cima Coppi long sleeve merino wool jersey. 
 Last, a fitted Pearl Izumi soft shell jacket with windproof front and 
 vented back.

 Hands: Massive MEC winter gloves with a removable insulated liner, plus 
 chemical hand warmers.

 Neck: Merino wool neck/face cover

 Head: thin headband, then fitted synthetic MEC hat. If it's REAALLY cold 
 and windy, I'll add ski goggles. 

 On Sat, Jan 10, 2015 at 9:31 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Awesome!

 I feel like a bit of a charlatan as I haven't been able to get much (and 
 we've had some amazing weather I've had to watch through the window) -- so 
 I get to experience things vicariously through you all. So I am selfishly 
 glad my prior stupidity has inspired you. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Saturday, January 10, 2015 at 8:27:50 PM UTC-7, Bob E wrote:


 On Saturday, January 10, 2015 at 7:14:18 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Way to get out, Bob! Cool ride. Grin.

 Sounds like you may have been warmer with fewer socks. If you put on 
 extra socks over what you usually wear, you may have constricted blood 
 flow 
 and thus made you foot much colder. At 22˚F I'd just be in a medium wool 
 sock and a mesh shoe.


 Thanks, Patrick. I was wearing only one pair of socks, but it was a 
 pretty tight fit in the uninsulated leather boots I was wearing, so you're 
 right -- my feet probably were a little too constricted. I'll take your 
 advice, but I just don't think I'm ready for mesh shoes just yet in these 
 temps! Maybe some insulated boots, like Sorels.

 I appreciate your input. And speaking of inspiration, you've certainly 
 inspired me to get out more in the winter months -- aside from skiing, I 
 used to pretty much hibernate in winter, but after reading about your 
 exploits, I picked up my first pair of snowshoes (MSR) last year. Winter is 
 fun!

 Regards,

 Bob

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Hatchet Use

[Geoffrey]

Copied and pasted from quick google searches:

Cowboys wore Wellingtons and other variations because the “tall tops of the 
boots protected your legs; the underslung heels kept your feet in the 
stirrups.” Each feature of a boot has a purpose.


But for most mens shoes, the heels are only small, and have benefits more 
than just increased height. People walk by planting their heel first and a 
small heel stops the sole from wearing down too quickly. With a Goodyear 
welted shoe, a cobbler and a sole saving heel can make men’s shoes last a 
lifetime.


the WIKI article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heel_(shoe)



For dress shoes, this answer makes the most sense to me.  I have a pair 
of cordovan shoes (horse muscle) that are very old, look new and have had 
the heels replaced:  The heel-strike is the most forceful part of the 
process of taking a step. Traditional shoes with leather heels/soles wear 
out fast there, and it's a lot cheaper to replace the heels than the whole 
shoes.




and of course, there is this reason: http://www.elevatorshoes.com   for me, 
sometimes being 6'5 just isn't enough



On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 4:08:51 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I hate to let you down, Grant, but I'm not very good at shaving rubber 
 heels off in one piece, though my second one was much closer than the 
 first. But if we ever have a major fire in the season of snow when I'm 
 likely to be wearing these boots, my last thought will be of Grant's lament 
 for me. Grin.

 Several points:

 -- High heels only level a hill going up. Going down, they magnify the 
 slope.
 -- Fire travels faster up hill than down, so the greater need is to outrun 
 a fire going uphill.
 -- I can run faster downhill or uphill with zero drop sing proper 
 locomotion techniques than I ever did with high heels (running shoes -- 
 nearly all of which have high heels).
 -- Most people's achilles tendon is shorter and weaker due to wearing high 
 heels (any shoe with a raised heel)
 -- It took me 3-4 months for the achilles to lengthen and strengthen so 
 going barefoot or in minimalist shoes was comfortable. That's more 
 adjustment than most people are willing to do.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 1:45:25 PM UTC-7, Grant Petersen wrote:


 http://www.whitesboots.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.viewcategory_id=444

 Whites Smokejumper Boots have high heels, and I always thought they 
 looked like old granny gunshooter boots..and a few years ago I was at a 
 trade show, stopped at the Whites booth, and I asked the guy there hey, why 
 the scary granny heels that look ancient feminine but kind of wicked? He'd 
 worked there 30 years and was now top dog, and told me in this case,  it's 
 for running down steep hills trying to escape a chasing fire. The high heel 
 hits the ground sooner and has a leveling effect on the hill, so you don't 
 get pushed forward downward as much. We all hope Deacon Patrick didn't 
 totally wreck and discard the heels, in case he's up against that.

 On a primal-primate-sex note (now you're all paying attention), read 
 chapter two of The Naked Ape. Same kinda stuff. The Naked Ape was a big 
 book in the '70s, author Desmond Morris is still alive, I think. The book 
 explainsstuff. I'll leave it at that, you're on your own.

 On Friday, December 26, 2014 11:46:42 AM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:

 Oh … the Kim Kardashian effect!

 —Eric N
 campyo...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @campyonlyguy 

 On Dec 26, 2014, at 11:43 AM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com wrote:

 Primate females in heat raise their rear ends as a signal they are ready 
 to mate -- a primal signal mimicked by women wearing high heals for the 
 change in posture and movement it creates.

 A raised heel (which almost all shoes and boots have), messes with 
 proper body alignment, motion, and function and serves no practical purpose 
 short of mating signals for either gender (though it is helpful for 
 horseback riding to prevent the foot from sliding through open toed 
 stirrups).

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Hatchet Use

[Geoffrey]

Hey, ho!  I never said anything was better!  This was more a response to 
the earlier post of not being able to find any info on the subject.  Even 
then, the copy and pastes were only explaining the history and reasoning 
men have heeled shoes.

6'5 Geoff with good posture...

On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 10:16:33 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Perhaps you're right, Geoffrey. It does seem better to endure knee, back, 
 and neck problems and move every step of our lives less effectively than we 
 ought so we needn't learn to walk properly or replace our heels as oft. 
 Sardonic grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 5:59:53 AM UTC-7, Geoffrey wrote:

 Copied and pasted from quick google searches:

 Cowboys wore Wellingtons and other variations because the “tall tops of 
 the boots protected your legs; the underslung heels kept your feet in the 
 stirrups.” Each feature of a boot has a purpose.


 But for most mens shoes, the heels are only small, and have benefits more 
 than just increased height. People walk by planting their heel first and a 
 small heel stops the sole from wearing down too quickly. With a Goodyear 
 welted shoe, a cobbler and a sole saving heel can make men’s shoes last a 
 lifetime.


 the WIKI article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heel_(shoe)



 For dress shoes, this answer makes the most sense to me.  I have a pair 
 of cordovan shoes (horse muscle) that are very old, look new and have had 
 the heels replaced:  The heel-strike is the most forceful part of the 
 process of taking a step. Traditional shoes with leather heels/soles wear 
 out fast there, and it's a lot cheaper to replace the heels than the whole 
 shoes.




 and of course, there is this reason: http://www.elevatorshoes.com   for 
 me, sometimes being 6'5 just isn't enough



 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 4:08:51 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I hate to let you down, Grant, but I'm not very good at shaving rubber 
 heels off in one piece, though my second one was much closer than the 
 first. But if we ever have a major fire in the season of snow when I'm 
 likely to be wearing these boots, my last thought will be of Grant's lament 
 for me. Grin.

 Several points:

 -- High heels only level a hill going up. Going down, they magnify the 
 slope.
 -- Fire travels faster up hill than down, so the greater need is to 
 outrun a fire going uphill.
 -- I can run faster downhill or uphill with zero drop sing proper 
 locomotion techniques than I ever did with high heels (running shoes -- 
 nearly all of which have high heels).
 -- Most people's achilles tendon is shorter and weaker due to wearing 
 high heels (any shoe with a raised heel)
 -- It took me 3-4 months for the achilles to lengthen and strengthen so 
 going barefoot or in minimalist shoes was comfortable. That's more 
 adjustment than most people are willing to do.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 1:45:25 PM UTC-7, Grant Petersen wrote:


 http://www.whitesboots.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.viewcategory_id=444

 Whites Smokejumper Boots have high heels, and I always thought they 
 looked like old granny gunshooter boots..and a few years ago I was at a 
 trade show, stopped at the Whites booth, and I asked the guy there hey, 
 why 
 the scary granny heels that look ancient feminine but kind of wicked? He'd 
 worked there 30 years and was now top dog, and told me in this case,  it's 
 for running down steep hills trying to escape a chasing fire. The high 
 heel 
 hits the ground sooner and has a leveling effect on the hill, so you don't 
 get pushed forward downward as much. We all hope Deacon Patrick didn't 
 totally wreck and discard the heels, in case he's up against that.

 On a primal-primate-sex note (now you're all paying attention), read 
 chapter two of The Naked Ape. Same kinda stuff. The Naked Ape was a big 
 book in the '70s, author Desmond Morris is still alive, I think. The book 
 explainsstuff. I'll leave it at that, you're on your own.

 On Friday, December 26, 2014 11:46:42 AM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:

 Oh … the Kim Kardashian effect!

 —Eric N
 campyo...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @campyonlyguy 

 On Dec 26, 2014, at 11:43 AM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com wrote:

 Primate females in heat raise their rear ends as a signal they are 
 ready to mate -- a primal signal mimicked by women wearing high heals for 
 the change in posture and movement it creates.

 A raised heel (which almost all shoes and boots have), messes with 
 proper body alignment, motion, and function and serves no practical 
 purpose 
 short of mating signals for either gender (though it is helpful for 
 horseback riding to prevent the foot from sliding through open toed 
 stirrups).

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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[RBW] Re: stripped braze-on

[Geoffrey]

I think a helicoil is probably going to make the most sense for you unless 
there is a lot of meat on that braze on and you can go to 6mm.  If you've 
never used one before, I would find a friend that has just to make sure as 
you don't want to goof this one. For a 5mm helicoil insert, you only need 
to drill a hole that is 5.15mm or 13/64 and then screw the threaded insert 
in and then you're done.  The helicoil will be stronger than the original 
threads too if installed correctly. 
 http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-5-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B000BB8XLG

On Sunday, December 28, 2014 2:35:53 PM UTC-6, Mobile Bill wrote:

 Thanks for the advice. It is a drive side brazed-on eyelet. I would have 
 simply used a through-bolt and locking nut, except that there is so little 
 clearance between the chain and the eyelet. Had not thought of the obvious 
 solution of reversing the head of a button bolt, and will give that a shot 
 first ... I don't completely understand what I'm getting into with the 
 helicoil insert, but will investigate. Am perilously close to investing in 
 a good tap and dye set, I fear. 

 On Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:28:28 PM UTC-6, Mobile Bill wrote:

 Hope y'all are getting some time off for riding. In the 70s here, but 
 raining cats and dogs for two days, so working on my bikes and looking for 
 the most practical, creative and immediate solution to a stripped braze-on 
 on my Betty, unfortunately the BO to which the rear rack attaches. Don't 
 know how it happened. Just noticed the rack was loose, and that I could 
 tighten. The 5 mm screw was a little bunged, as well. Tried another screw 
 and it gripped a little deeper, but eventually started spinning as well.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Wire Routing For Rack-Mounted Tail Light

[Geoffrey]

I think the way Anton routed those is really slick, totally out of the way. 
 Won't get snagged on anything but even more so, it looks good.

On Saturday, December 27, 2014 7:32:19 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:

 That's a clever and tidy method. But curious: why not just stick the wires 
 to the frame with the glue?

 Me, I just today got a nice, NOS battery rack-mount tail light from a 
 listmember to substitute for my dynamo Toplight: Not mounting fenders year 
 'round, I don't have them to use as discrete wire routes.

 On Sat, Dec 27, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Anton Tutter atu...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 I've done a lot of bike wiring on bikes not designed for internal wire 
 routing, and the solution that I've been most pleased with is adhering 
 small 1/2 lengths of shrink tubing to the frame as guides, then routing 
 the wire through them.  I use an adhesive 
 http://hardwareonlinestore.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemartview=productdetailsvirtuemart_product_id=8808virtuemart_category_id=12701gclid=CIPHveK058ICFQhk7AodW2MAUw
  
 that sticks tenaciously yet peels off without marring paint when the time 
 comes to remove it. Most people who see my bikes with this setup don't even 
 notice they're wired.  Here are a few photos:

 https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6492698657_93f8dd0aed_z.jpg


 https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5474/9401478506_9294cae4de_c.jpg

 At the bottom bracket, if you have a bolt-on cable guide, you can add a 
 nylon P-clip as a wire guide to route the wire under the BB toward the 
 fender:

 https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7453/9491832896_ea90b7882e_c.jpg


 Anton




 On Sunday, December 21, 2014 12:20:03 PM UTC-5, Darin G. wrote:

 I'm going to be installing a dynohub and I'm thinking about mounting a 
 light on the back of my nitro rack.  Ideas on how to route the wire from 
 the hub back to the rack?  I hate the idea of lots of electrical tape and 
 zip ties but I can't think of any great options.

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 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

 *
 *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
 circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
 individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

 *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

 *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante  
  

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[RBW] Re: Wire Routing For Rack-Mounted Tail Light

[Geoffrey]

What type of glue do you use?

On Saturday, December 27, 2014 5:55:55 PM UTC-6, Anton Tutter wrote:

 I've done a lot of bike wiring on bikes not designed for internal wire 
 routing, and the solution that I've been most pleased with is adhering 
 small 1/2 lengths of shrink tubing to the frame as guides, then routing 
 the wire through them.  I use an adhesive 
 http://hardwareonlinestore.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemartview=productdetailsvirtuemart_product_id=8808virtuemart_category_id=12701gclid=CIPHveK058ICFQhk7AodW2MAUw
  
 that sticks tenaciously yet peels off without marring paint when the time 
 comes to remove it. Most people who see my bikes with this setup don't even 
 notice they're wired.  Here are a few photos:

 https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6492698657_93f8dd0aed_z.jpg


 https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5474/9401478506_9294cae4de_c.jpg

 At the bottom bracket, if you have a bolt-on cable guide, you can add a 
 nylon P-clip as a wire guide to route the wire under the BB toward the 
 fender:

 https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7453/9491832896_ea90b7882e_c.jpg


 Anton




 On Sunday, December 21, 2014 12:20:03 PM UTC-5, Darin G. wrote:

 I'm going to be installing a dynohub and I'm thinking about mounting a 
 light on the back of my nitro rack.  Ideas on how to route the wire from 
 the hub back to the rack?  I hate the idea of lots of electrical tape and 
 zip ties but I can't think of any great options.



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[RBW] Re: Country Bike Rally in Michigan 2015

[Geoffrey]

I'm in NW Indiana so just as long as nothing work wise steals this weekend 
away from me, I'll likely be showing up as week :)

On Thursday, December 25, 2014 7:52:36 AM UTC-6, Marc Irwin wrote:

 I thought I would pass on the counts so far.  Of course, I've been doing 
 this myself for a few years so it will happen regardless who else shows.  I 
 have 4 from this site who have put it on their calendars and another 4 
 locally, with me that's nine who are planning on it.  I've two other forums 
 where I will list this so it looks like a party!

 Marc

 On Saturday, December 6, 2014 4:44:30 PM UTC-5, Marc Irwin wrote:

 I can put together as long a ride as you like, but Saturday I was looking 
 at 25-30 to have lunch in Hastings and a different 25-30 back.  Sunday, to 
 ArtPrize, it's a 30 mile ride to downtown GR and day of knocking around and 
 back, but I figured a lot of people would caravan to a common location, and 
 make that a stop before the drive home.  But logistics and details can 
 always be worked out.  There are hotel and casino accommodations nearby as 
 well.

 Marc

 On Thursday, December 4, 2014 9:56:45 AM UTC-5, Geoffrey wrote:

 That sounds pretty cool.  How long of  a ride is it?

 On Thursday, December 4, 2014 5:05:21 AM UTC-6, Marc Irwin wrote:

 Along my travels the past few years a few people have asked about a 
 bike rally in Michigan.  Of course there are a lot of places many people 
 would like along the lakeshore, but I realized that two things which have 
 reached international importance are right out my back door and I do it 
 every year.  Every year around the end of Sept I ride up to Yankee Springs 
 Campground and spend the weekend where I ride through the forest along the 
 route of the Barry Roubaix http://barry-roubaix.com/gravel race and 
 spend the following day riding (or driving/riding, depending on the 
 weather) to Grand Rapids for the Art Prize competition 
 http://simplecycle-marc.blogspot.com/2011/10/art-and-cycling.html.  
 I thought I would throw that out there and invite anybody who wishes to 
 tag along.  It would be the last weekend of September 2015.  

 Marc



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[RBW] Re: lugged stem or post slipping

[Geoffrey]

I use grease a lot but very sparingly.  Just a very thin coating over it 
and be done.  I have a Nitto, lugged stem in my AHH and this has never been 
a problem, nor has it been a problem on my seat post and I'm a big boy 
weighing in at 225. 

On Thursday, December 25, 2014 3:27:51 PM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 I usually put a liberal coat of grease on seat posts and stems prior to 
 installing them. The intent being to avoid creaking and / or parts becoming 
 stuck. When I put a Nitto lugged seat post on my Bombadil I had trouble 
 getting it to stay put. On every ride it would slip down in the seat tube. 
 Eventually I wiped the post and the inside of my seat tube as clean as I 
 could, and since then things have been fine. I think I read somebody 
 commenting that the lugged stem always tended to slip on them. My bullmoose 
 bars generally stay put but any time the bike falls over they do end up off 
 center. 
 So I wonder, is there a consensus on the best approach to installing Nitto 
 steel stems and seat posts with the dull bright coating. Grease, no grease, 
 Boeshield T9, bees wax, ... 


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[RBW] Re: Can you make a Mark's rack sit right over the front wheel?

[Geoffrey]

It looks a lot like the berthoud front rack on my AHH.  It always bothered 
me that the rack was angled UP because the uprights where too long.  I 
wound up cutting those uprights, right near the bolt hole for the fork 
mount, cut out a little section then tig welded it back together and it 
sits perfectly flat.  You could do the cutting and prep and find a good 
welder to do the rest.  

On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 8:03:16 AM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 I see they sit up pretty high and away from the fender.
 Is it possible to get them lower, right over the fender?
 I know you can use a spacer and get the fender attached that way to the 
 rack, but for aesthetics and better handling, I was wondering.



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[RBW] Re: Can you make a Mark's rack sit right over the front wheel?

[Geoffrey]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fT8-wdGwaMs/U-ab7NZXfmI/BQQ/PbypJRpkUig/s1600/IMG_6347.JPG


On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 8:55:25 AM UTC-6, Geoffrey wrote:

 It looks a lot like the berthoud front rack on my AHH.  It always bothered 
 me that the rack was angled UP because the uprights where too long.  I 
 wound up cutting those uprights, right near the bolt hole for the fork 
 mount, cut out a little section then tig welded it back together and it 
 sits perfectly flat.  You could do the cutting and prep and find a good 
 welder to do the rest.  

 On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 8:03:16 AM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 I see they sit up pretty high and away from the fender.
 Is it possible to get them lower, right over the fender?
 I know you can use a spacer and get the fender attached that way to the 
 rack, but for aesthetics and better handling, I was wondering.



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Re: [RBW] stripped braze-on

[Geoffrey]

I think using a nylock, putting a screw all the way through and using that 
as a sleeve to contain the screw will lead to problems down the road.  If 
that screw is in there, slamming around and you bounce down the road, it's 
a shock on each bump.  The cheapest fix IMO that would be really secure 
would be to find a 6mm tap and just go oversized on those and call it a 
day.  My two cents.

On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:27:07 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 Both answers are good ones. In fact, chase the threads, and then use a 
 longer bolt w/ a nylock! 

 On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 9:58 PM, lungimsam john1...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote: 
  Without a pic I am guessing you mean the threaded cylinder brazed to the 
 seat stay? 
  Maybe just use a nylock nut with a new bolt? Is that ok to use for a 
 cylinder like that? 
  
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 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 


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[RBW] Re: Can you make a Mark's rack sit right over the front wheel?

[Geoffrey]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fT8-wdGwaMs/U-ab7NZXfmI/BQQ/PbypJRpkUig/s1600/IMG_6347.JPG


On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 9:07:33 AM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 Geoffrey, could you post a pic of your Berthoud on the Hilsen? I am 
 interested to see it. I hear it is a mid fork mount.


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[RBW] Re: Can you make a Mark's rack sit right over the front wheel?

[Geoffrey]

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fxjnkOt0Mzs/U-abE6M6eII/BPw/4DkA7eX6WMw/s1600/photo%2B3%2B%252818%2529.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ddGK8KBEfbg/U-abUCUd1bI/BP4/tanxavydbKk/s1600/IMG_6332.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m-nowTt_WPg/U-abgk8PiNI/BQA/Lg3fvmSK7Vg/s1600/IMG_6335.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jf0CtQETrSg/U-abuKNfj0I/BQI/F2PJHj0G4gI/s1600/IMG_6339.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ko_lsBwOz40/U-aa4S2x6gI/BPo/krEAdTtCZTQ/s1600/photo%2B1%2B%252819%2529.JPG
Here are some pics of the modified decaleur I made to accept the taller 
bag.  I was told by Hans ( I think that was his name, not Jan) at BQ that 
this would fail but he's wrong, just because his brazed version of this 
doesn't mean that my tigged version with FULL penetration will fail.  2,500 
miles and still going strong!

On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:14:00 PM UTC-6, Geoffrey wrote:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fT8-wdGwaMs/U-ab7NZXfmI/BQQ/PbypJRpkUig/s1600/IMG_6347.JPG


 On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 9:07:33 AM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 Geoffrey, could you post a pic of your Berthoud on the Hilsen? I am 
 interested to see it. I hear it is a mid fork mount.



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[RBW] Re: Can you make a Mark's rack sit right over the front wheel?

[Geoffrey]

BTW, I probably still have enough of the round and tubing to do this again 
if anyone wants and knows how or knows a good welder...

On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:16:19 PM UTC-6, Geoffrey wrote:


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fxjnkOt0Mzs/U-abE6M6eII/BPw/4DkA7eX6WMw/s1600/photo%2B3%2B%252818%2529.JPG


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ddGK8KBEfbg/U-abUCUd1bI/BP4/tanxavydbKk/s1600/IMG_6332.JPG


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m-nowTt_WPg/U-abgk8PiNI/BQA/Lg3fvmSK7Vg/s1600/IMG_6335.JPG


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jf0CtQETrSg/U-abuKNfj0I/BQI/F2PJHj0G4gI/s1600/IMG_6339.JPG


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ko_lsBwOz40/U-aa4S2x6gI/BPo/krEAdTtCZTQ/s1600/photo%2B1%2B%252819%2529.JPG
 Here are some pics of the modified decaleur I made to accept the taller 
 bag.  I was told by Hans ( I think that was his name, not Jan) at BQ that 
 this would fail but he's wrong, just because his brazed version of this 
 doesn't mean that my tigged version with FULL penetration will fail.  2,500 
 miles and still going strong!

 On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:14:00 PM UTC-6, Geoffrey wrote:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fT8-wdGwaMs/U-ab7NZXfmI/BQQ/PbypJRpkUig/s1600/IMG_6347.JPG


 On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 9:07:33 AM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 Geoffrey, could you post a pic of your Berthoud on the Hilsen? I am 
 interested to see it. I hear it is a mid fork mount.



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[RBW] selling my 68cm Sequoia on ebay

[Geoffrey]

If anyone TALL guys are in the market, this is one super clean bike.  Kinda 
sad to see it go but I can't justify owning it any longer as it's redundant 
in my collection.  I had fun going through it, making a couple very minor 
changes and going on a couple short rides but someone else will be able to 
put it to use better than me. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231429051915?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

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Re: [RBW] selling my 68cm Sequoia on ebay

[Geoffrey]

Thanks!  It's getting pretty good activity on ebay but not setting the 
world on fire.  If it was a 58 or 60cm the price would be going up up up! 
 Here is a link to some pics I took before putting the noodles on and 
changing the cables and housings but after I really cleaned it up and 
greased everything.  It has sealed bearing hubs.  My reserve which has been 
met is a little less than what I have in to the bike. 
 http://dunesman.smugmug.com/Sequoia/n-d4hSK/

On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 2:36:02 PM UTC-6, Derek wrote:

 Took a look. Suhweeet! They just don't makem' like they used to. (I looked 
 because I have a RivRedwood 68--and the same goes for it.) You'll make some 
 Stretch really really happy.

 On Wed, Dec 24, 2014 at 1:50 PM, Geoffrey rin...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 If anyone TALL guys are in the market, this is one super clean bike.  
 Kinda sad to see it go but I can't justify owning it any longer as it's 
 redundant in my collection.  I had fun going through it, making a couple 
 very minor changes and going on a couple short rides but someone else will 
 be able to put it to use better than me. 


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/231429051915?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

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Re: [RBW] selling my 68cm Sequoia on ebay

[Geoffrey]

My favorite detail is that they didn't paint the chain hanger :)  You can 
see the chrome little nub if you look carefully.  The forks and the chain 
and seat stays are all chrome with paint on top.  Trick and something you 
just don't see anymore. 


On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 3:17:28 PM UTC-6, Geoffrey wrote:

 Thanks!  It's getting pretty good activity on ebay but not setting the 
 world on fire.  If it was a 58 or 60cm the price would be going up up up! 
  Here is a link to some pics I took before putting the noodles on and 
 changing the cables and housings but after I really cleaned it up and 
 greased everything.  It has sealed bearing hubs.  My reserve which has been 
 met is a little less than what I have in to the bike.  
 http://dunesman.smugmug.com/Sequoia/n-d4hSK/

 On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 2:36:02 PM UTC-6, Derek wrote:

 Took a look. Suhweeet! They just don't makem' like they used to. (I 
 looked because I have a RivRedwood 68--and the same goes for it.) You'll 
 make some Stretch really really happy.

 On Wed, Dec 24, 2014 at 1:50 PM, Geoffrey rin...@gmail.com wrote:

 If anyone TALL guys are in the market, this is one super clean bike.  
 Kinda sad to see it go but I can't justify owning it any longer as it's 
 redundant in my collection.  I had fun going through it, making a couple 
 very minor changes and going on a couple short rides but someone else will 
 be able to put it to use better than me. 


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/231429051915?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

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Re: [RBW] stripped braze-on

[Geoffrey]

If you do chase the threads, make sure you get new hardware, bolts stretch 
over time with use and that could contribute to your problem.

On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:27:07 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 Both answers are good ones. In fact, chase the threads, and then use a 
 longer bolt w/ a nylock! 

 On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 9:58 PM, lungimsam john1...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote: 
  Without a pic I am guessing you mean the threaded cylinder brazed to the 
 seat stay? 
  Maybe just use a nylock nut with a new bolt? Is that ok to use for a 
 cylinder like that? 
  
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 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 


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Re: [RBW] Re: stripped braze-on

[Geoffrey]

We use them all the time on heavy machines.  Never have a problem.  You'll 
still have to drill material to increase the I.D.

On Thursday, December 25, 2014 12:51:56 AM UTC-6, Christopher Chen wrote:

 Using a helicoil is a way to repair the threads and not move up to the 
 next highest size. Granted, it's more work, but considering I've used them 
 on engine blocks, you could do worse.

 On Wed, Dec 24, 2014 at 8:38 PM, IanA atte...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Tapping out to M6 would be one approach.   Otherwise, a longer M5 and a 
 nylock nut is a good fix as long as there is no clearance issue - on the 
 drive-side there can be interference with cassette/chain.  In this case a 
 low profile headed bolt threaded from the inside provides a stud that the 
 rack strut is mounted on then secured with a nylock nut.

 Ian A/Canada.




 On Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:28:28 PM UTC-7, Mobile Bill wrote:

 Hope y'all are getting some time off for riding. In the 70s here, but 
 raining cats and dogs for two days, so working on my bikes and looking for 
 the most practical, creative and immediate solution to a stripped braze-on 
 on my Betty, unfortunately the BO to which the rear rack attaches. Don't 
 know how it happened. Just noticed the rack was loose, and that I could 
 tighten. The 5 mm screw was a little bunged, as well. Tried another screw 
 and it gripped a little deeper, but eventually started spinning as well.

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[RBW] Re: The heartbreak of zip-tied fenders

[Geoffrey]

Just curious, why not just use some fender hardware? 

On Tuesday, December 23, 2014 11:34:55 AM UTC-6, Beth H wrote:

 My last zip-tie fender fix has lasted five years (avg 2,500 mi/yr). It 
 just gave way two days ago, taking the chewed-up nasty end of the fender 
 with it. Today I'm shortening the fender, moving everything down, drilling 
 new holes and re-zipping it. I lose maybe an inch of fender protection, and 
 the fix will last several years. Who needs Honjos? 
 Beth in PDX

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[RBW] Re: I WANT ONE OF EACH.....AHEM Grant

[Geoffrey]

It's a swiss army pioneer knife.  Just buy one for thirty bucks and get it 
engraved locally.  Cna't help on the hats, etc. 
 
http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Pioneer-Pocket-Knife/dp/B000687B4O/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8refRID=1WXRMMTVQ65NT0T5VN0G

On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:28:11 PM UTC-6, Jon in the foothills of 
Central Colorado wrote:

 RIv Reader #39 ,early 2007,page 34, 

 There are pictures of A.Homer Hilsen  stuff...Swiss knife ,visor, hat, and 
 t-shirt.
 I would like to see that stuff offered again...for me I'd be happy with 
 the hat (made by Randi Jo of course)and tee shirt and I would like mine to 
 say: Sam Hillborne with a head badge on the front,PLSE.
 I was drooling over the Mondaine watch but can't swing it right now, but 
 would jump on the hat and tee.
 I think a hat and tees offered for each Riv model frame would sell.
 If you agree or would like one,give a shout out to Mr. G.



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[RBW] Re: What's your winter project?

[Geoffrey]

First goal is to sell the absolutely cherry Specialized Sequoia I have. 
 It's up on the ebay right now.
Next is to do some work on a 62cm old school 1985 or 1986 Mongoose Chrome 
MTN Bike.  I gave it to my bro but I'm going to rebuild the head set, the 
BB and rebuild the very cool Araya wheel set.  These are the ones with big 
holes in the rims, you can see the rim strip.  The galv. spokes have rusted 
so I'm going to rebuild with some nice SS spokes.  I'm considering getting 
the rims polished just because.  
Then, lastly, not really a project but I'm going to order a bike friday 
Triple.

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 4:37:11 AM UTC-6, ascpgh wrote:

 Riding, besides my commutes, get a bit scant from here on out through 
 winter. The season, the holidays, more deliberate prep for a trip in the 
 conditions, plenty of things distract from just a nice ride but I realize 
 that at this time every year I always seem to contemplate a bike project to 
 go with the anticipated springtime, fruition or not. It's biking fun for 
 the extra bandwidth.

 My project is a low trail, 650b wheeled, all-around bike made with a 
 lively tube set (versus sturdy for touring) with drop bars, center pull 
 brakes, generator hub, LED lighting. All on a budget recognizing the value 
 of experience, unlike the box bike/mass market interpretation, handmade 
 wheels versus machine made ones as an example. I am reading and including 
 many posting subjects and items in this project and admit that may not 
 reach reality, but it's fun to have on the drawing board.

 Andy Cheatham
 Pittsburgh


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Re: [RBW] Re: My stolen Rambouillet

[Geoffrey]

Awww man Mark, I'm sorry.  This kind of crap boils my blood!  Good luck on 
that lead.  I bet Riv would be able to get you the serial # pretty easily 
based of their sales to the shop and when you bought it.  Just a thought. 
 Also, search tempest is an easier way to cover lots of craigslistings at 
the same 
time: 
http://www.searchtempest.com/search?location=17101maxDist=400region_us=1search_string=Rivendellkeytype=advRegion=nacityselect=zippage=0category=8subcat=biaminAsk=minmaxAsk=max

On Tuesday, December 9, 2014 2:14:41 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Regarding Serial Numbers, I've decided that I'm photographing every bike's 
 serial number and posting it on flickr,  I have it on my computer, too. 
  Here's my Atlantis:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/15968356411/

 I feel like this makes it easy for me to find it if I need it, and it has 
 a believable timestamp on it, showing WHEN it became mine.  That doesn't 
 help you, I realize, but your situation reminds me to make sure all my 
 bikes ser #s are photographed.  Good luck getting Rambo back!

 On Tuesday, December 9, 2014 7:46:40 AM UTC-8, Mark Wilkins wrote:

 Thanks for the kind wishes and help, everyone. 

 Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find the file where I kept the 
 serial #.  I've been in touch with the shop where I bought it, and 
 they do have paper records that go back that far...it just may take 
 some time to find it. 

 Someone on the Harrisburg Bicycle Club's facebook page said that they 
 _might_have seen it on Sunday a couple towns over from mine.  He 
 said... 

 Not positive but I think I saw a bike like this outside the Legion in 
 Newcumberland on Sunday. I have always loved the old school 10 speed 
 style so it caught my eye and the name was one that I did not 
 recognize. Once again, not sure but hopefully this will help you 
 recover your property. 

 The old school 10 speed style made me smile. 

 On Tue, Dec 9, 2014 at 9:17 AM, bo richardson boru...@gmail.com wrote: 
  serial number? 
  mycriagslistfinder.com 
  and jaxed.com should add up to 
  pretty good us coverage 
  
  if it goes into a container bound for 
  foreign distribution, recovery is less likely, duh 
  
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Re: [RBW] For sale 62cm Waterford Built Hunqapillar (revised posting)

[Geoffrey]

Hi Keith, I just remeasured my PBH, I'm at 96.5cm.  I'm 6'5  This looks 
like it might be the size in that case, huh?

On Sunday, December 7, 2014 5:36:13 PM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 Geoffrey
 How tall are you? 
 Keith (510) 703-1074

 On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:48 PM, Geoffrey wrote:

 Thanks for the info.  I have a PBH of 99.5cm.

 On Saturday, December 6, 2014 9:53:08 PM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 I'm 6'3 and have a 93cm PBH in the morning.  My Hunq's stand-over height 
 is the lowest of my 8 bikes including my 64cm Gunnar Roadie which also has 
 a sloping TT. 

 The reach on the Hunq is actually closer than my other bikes (Waterford 
 RS-22) despite the longer top tube length due to the higher bar position. 
 The reach is longer  on my 63.5cm Steve Rex, 63.5cm Map Randonneur Project 
 bike, and 64cm Gunnar Roadie plus 3 other Rivendells 

 My  other Riv'endells  all have higher SO heights with longer reaches due 
 to their specific setups. My  64cm Roadeo  (yes 64cm - its a one off model 
 I rode on PBP in 2011) has a 60cm top tube, while my 63cm Protovelo has a 
 60.5 cm top tube, and my 65cm Hilsen has a 62cm top tube. The variance in 
 these top tube lengths is somewhat meaningless since the head tube angles 
 are different on all of the bikes mentioned.  My Roadeo has a 73 degree 
 Head tube angle (same as my, Map, Rex, and Waterford which all have similar 
 TT lengths. My Gunnar has the shortest wheelbase and steepest HT angle at 
 73.5 degrees. It has a 60cm TT length but longer reach due to the saddle to 
 bar position setup for the Oakland Port Ride.   



 On Dec 6, 2014, at 6:38 PM, Geoffrey wrote:

 Keith, do you mind me asking how tall you are?  Gorgeous bike!

 On Saturday, December 6, 2014 8:36:28 AM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 I'm revising my prior posting and price of this 62cm Waterford Built 
 Hunq. 
 I am the original owner and purchased the complete bike from Rivendell 
 in Walnut Creek. The bike is excellent condition with larger tire 
 clearance. Price is $3,333. I paid over $4,700. I live locally in the East 
 Bay and prefer local sales.
 Build details:
 Frame (Waterford Built w/custom paint job); Silver Chris King Headset
 Sugino XD Triple 44/34/24, Phil wood Bottom Bracket
 Nitto Noodle Bars 48cm 26.0; Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 26.0
 Shimano Aero Levers; Tecktro Brakers Interuptors, Shimano 9 sp Dura Ace 
 Bar End Shifters
 Shimano XT rear derailleur; Shimano XT front derailleur

 WHEELS: 700c Rear 36 hole Phil Wood Hub 135 Synergy rim; 700c Front 36 
 hole Phil Wood Hub 
 Brakes: Front Paul Neo Retro Brake; Rear Paul Touring Canti Brake w/Paul 
 Moon Units cable guides. Schwable Marathon Dureme Tires
 Nitto S83 Seatpost 26.8
 Nitto cable hanger

 I will also consider selling as a Frame/Fork/Headset/Bottom Bracket 
 Combination with or without other parts. My email is klbeato at gmail. Cell 
 is 510.703.1074
 Keith


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Re: [RBW] For sale 62cm Waterford Built Hunqapillar (revised posting)

[Geoffrey]

I wish I was, I'm in the Midwest.

On Saturday, December 6, 2014 11:41:47 PM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 If you're local come check
 It out

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:48 PM, Geoffrey rin...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Thanks for the info.  I have a PBH of 99.5cm.

 On Saturday, December 6, 2014 9:53:08 PM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 I'm 6'3 and have a 93cm PBH in the morning.  My Hunq's stand-over height 
 is the lowest of my 8 bikes including my 64cm Gunnar Roadie which also has 
 a sloping TT. 

 The reach on the Hunq is actually closer than my other bikes (Waterford 
 RS-22) despite the longer top tube length due to the higher bar position. 
 The reach is longer  on my 63.5cm Steve Rex, 63.5cm Map Randonneur Project 
 bike, and 64cm Gunnar Roadie plus 3 other Rivendells 

 My  other Riv'endells  all have higher SO heights with longer reaches due 
 to their specific setups. My  64cm Roadeo  (yes 64cm - its a one off model 
 I rode on PBP in 2011) has a 60cm top tube, while my 63cm Protovelo has a 
 60.5 cm top tube, and my 65cm Hilsen has a 62cm top tube. The variance in 
 these top tube lengths is somewhat meaningless since the head tube angles 
 are different on all of the bikes mentioned.  My Roadeo has a 73 degree 
 Head tube angle (same as my, Map, Rex, and Waterford which all have similar 
 TT lengths. My Gunnar has the shortest wheelbase and steepest HT angle at 
 73.5 degrees. It has a 60cm TT length but longer reach due to the saddle to 
 bar position setup for the Oakland Port Ride.   



 On Dec 6, 2014, at 6:38 PM, Geoffrey wrote:

 Keith, do you mind me asking how tall you are?  Gorgeous bike!

 On Saturday, December 6, 2014 8:36:28 AM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 I'm revising my prior posting and price of this 62cm Waterford Built 
 Hunq. 
 I am the original owner and purchased the complete bike from Rivendell 
 in Walnut Creek. The bike is excellent condition with larger tire 
 clearance. Price is $3,333. I paid over $4,700. I live locally in the East 
 Bay and prefer local sales.
 Build details:
 Frame (Waterford Built w/custom paint job); Silver Chris King Headset
 Sugino XD Triple 44/34/24, Phil wood Bottom Bracket
 Nitto Noodle Bars 48cm 26.0; Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 26.0
 Shimano Aero Levers; Tecktro Brakers Interuptors, Shimano 9 sp Dura Ace 
 Bar End Shifters
 Shimano XT rear derailleur; Shimano XT front derailleur

 WHEELS: 700c Rear 36 hole Phil Wood Hub 135 Synergy rim; 700c Front 36 
 hole Phil Wood Hub 
 Brakes: Front Paul Neo Retro Brake; Rear Paul Touring Canti Brake w/Paul 
 Moon Units cable guides. Schwable Marathon Dureme Tires
 Nitto S83 Seatpost 26.8
 Nitto cable hanger

 I will also consider selling as a Frame/Fork/Headset/Bottom Bracket 
 Combination with or without other parts. My email is klbeato at gmail. Cell 
 is 510.703.1074
 Keith


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Re: [RBW] Daring to wrench on my Riv's?

[Geoffrey]

Just start doing it!  Almost everything on a bicycle is about tension, one 
way or another.  For the guys that haven't tackled truing, I encourage you 
do do so, spend 18 bucks and get a red, black and green wrench right out of 
the gate so you can do other bikes without question.  Once you figure out 
truing, you'll realize that it's easier to true a wheel than it is to get 
your handlebars straight!  
I like using quality tools, park, campy, or other non bike specific hand 
tools.  One the iBob list, there was a long discussion about work stands. 
 I love my WrenchForce (old Trek brand) stand and think it's a better 
design than the park stuff.  It looks like Feedback sports picked up where 
Trek left off: http://feedbacksports.com/shop/default.aspx
Very good design IMO. 
I agree that youtube would be a good place to check on how to perform 
different tasks on your bike.
One thing that I've described many times over the years and I've seen a lot 
of people have A Ha moments is adjusting the derailleurs.  The screws 
are simply limit screws for how high or low the derailleur will travel.  If 
your derailleur goes in to the highest and lowest gear you're good and 
these screws rarely ever need adjustment if you aren't changing parts on 
your bike or making adjustments to you bottom bracket spindle adjustment, 
like you can with a Phil BB.  
Anyhow, a quick tutorial on derailleurs.  Drop it all the way down in the 
back to the smallest gear, shift up one (I'm making the assumption it's 
indexed shifting but the concept is the same with friction) and see how it 
shift.  Does it shift quickly, does it not go at all?  Then shift back down 
and see how it shifts in comparison to going up.  If it fell down in to the 
smaller gear easier than it climbed up one gear, there isn't enough tension 
on the rear derailleur cable.  So, give a quarter turn on the rear 
derailleurs barrel adjusted OUT to increase the tension.  Then go through 
the process again.  I like to do this mostly in the middle of the cassette 
and then check across them all and you're good to go!

On Thursday, December 4, 2014 11:35:01 PM UTC-6, Peter M wrote:

 youtube is your friend at first, its easier to see visually what people 
 are doing than to read about it. Then just go for it, if you break 
 something expensive, you wont break it again most likely! I learned mostly 
 on my own, internet, youtube, a lot of trial and error. 

 On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 12:25 AM, lungimsam john1...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 I can do some stuff on my bikes. Setting up cockpits and saddle/seatpost, 
 brake lever/caliper/housing/cable installation and adjustment, pedals, 
 shifter lever installation and adjustment, fender/rack installations, 
 cassette/chain swapping, etc. The more basic stuff.

 But I haven't dared to do anything with bb's, cranksets, wheel 
 building/truing, headset adjustment, derailer installation. Just don't 
 wanna mess anything up.
 But I want to learn to do this stuff so I don't have to depend on the LBS 
 for things.

 What's a good way to go about doing these more difficult things without 
 damaging anything? Books and websites are helpful, but I still don't have 
 the confidence to mess with the aforementioned stuff.

 Buy a beater and wrench away on it? But a lot of old road bike beaters 
 don't match the type of components and frame of the RBW bikes and wheels, 
 so I don't know how helpful that would be to break down and rebuild a 
 Peugeot (for instance) to help me learn how to do maintenance on my 
 Rivbikes.

 Any ideas? How'd you learn?

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[RBW] Re: For sale 62cm Waterford Built Hunqapillar (revised posting)

[Geoffrey]

Can you please post a stand over height?  Thank you...

On Saturday, December 6, 2014 8:36:28 AM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 I'm revising my prior posting and price of this 62cm Waterford Built Hunq. 
 I am the original owner and purchased the complete bike from Rivendell in 
 Walnut Creek. The bike is excellent condition with larger tire clearance. 
 Price is $3,333. I paid over $4,700. I live locally in the East Bay and 
 prefer local sales.
 Build details:
 Frame (Waterford Built w/custom paint job); Silver Chris King Headset
 Sugino XD Triple 44/34/24, Phil wood Bottom Bracket
 Nitto Noodle Bars 48cm 26.0; Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 26.0
 Shimano Aero Levers; Tecktro Brakers Interuptors, Shimano 9 sp Dura Ace 
 Bar End Shifters
 Shimano XT rear derailleur; Shimano XT front derailleur

 WHEELS: 700c Rear 36 hole Phil Wood Hub 135 Synergy rim; 700c Front 36 
 hole Phil Wood Hub 
 Brakes: Front Paul Neo Retro Brake; Rear Paul Touring Canti Brake w/Paul 
 Moon Units cable guides. Schwable Marathon Dureme Tires
 Nitto S83 Seatpost 26.8
 Nitto cable hanger

 I will also consider selling as a Frame/Fork/Headset/Bottom Bracket 
 Combination with or without other parts. My email is klbeato at gmail. Cell 
 is 510.703.1074
 Keith


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[RBW] Re: For sale 62cm Waterford Built Hunqapillar (revised posting)

[Geoffrey]

Keith, do you mind me asking how tall you are?  Gorgeous bike!

On Saturday, December 6, 2014 8:36:28 AM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 I'm revising my prior posting and price of this 62cm Waterford Built Hunq. 
 I am the original owner and purchased the complete bike from Rivendell in 
 Walnut Creek. The bike is excellent condition with larger tire clearance. 
 Price is $3,333. I paid over $4,700. I live locally in the East Bay and 
 prefer local sales.
 Build details:
 Frame (Waterford Built w/custom paint job); Silver Chris King Headset
 Sugino XD Triple 44/34/24, Phil wood Bottom Bracket
 Nitto Noodle Bars 48cm 26.0; Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 26.0
 Shimano Aero Levers; Tecktro Brakers Interuptors, Shimano 9 sp Dura Ace 
 Bar End Shifters
 Shimano XT rear derailleur; Shimano XT front derailleur

 WHEELS: 700c Rear 36 hole Phil Wood Hub 135 Synergy rim; 700c Front 36 
 hole Phil Wood Hub 
 Brakes: Front Paul Neo Retro Brake; Rear Paul Touring Canti Brake w/Paul 
 Moon Units cable guides. Schwable Marathon Dureme Tires
 Nitto S83 Seatpost 26.8
 Nitto cable hanger

 I will also consider selling as a Frame/Fork/Headset/Bottom Bracket 
 Combination with or without other parts. My email is klbeato at gmail. Cell 
 is 510.703.1074
 Keith


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Re: [RBW] For sale 62cm Waterford Built Hunqapillar (revised posting)

[Geoffrey]

Thanks for the info.  I have a PBH of 99.5cm.

On Saturday, December 6, 2014 9:53:08 PM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 I'm 6'3 and have a 93cm PBH in the morning.  My Hunq's stand-over height 
 is the lowest of my 8 bikes including my 64cm Gunnar Roadie which also has 
 a sloping TT. 

 The reach on the Hunq is actually closer than my other bikes (Waterford 
 RS-22) despite the longer top tube length due to the higher bar position. 
 The reach is longer  on my 63.5cm Steve Rex, 63.5cm Map Randonneur Project 
 bike, and 64cm Gunnar Roadie plus 3 other Rivendells 

 My  other Riv'endells  all have higher SO heights with longer reaches due 
 to their specific setups. My  64cm Roadeo  (yes 64cm - its a one off model 
 I rode on PBP in 2011) has a 60cm top tube, while my 63cm Protovelo has a 
 60.5 cm top tube, and my 65cm Hilsen has a 62cm top tube. The variance in 
 these top tube lengths is somewhat meaningless since the head tube angles 
 are different on all of the bikes mentioned.  My Roadeo has a 73 degree 
 Head tube angle (same as my, Map, Rex, and Waterford which all have similar 
 TT lengths. My Gunnar has the shortest wheelbase and steepest HT angle at 
 73.5 degrees. It has a 60cm TT length but longer reach due to the saddle to 
 bar position setup for the Oakland Port Ride.   



 On Dec 6, 2014, at 6:38 PM, Geoffrey wrote:

 Keith, do you mind me asking how tall you are?  Gorgeous bike!

 On Saturday, December 6, 2014 8:36:28 AM UTC-6, Keith B wrote:

 I'm revising my prior posting and price of this 62cm Waterford Built 
 Hunq. 
 I am the original owner and purchased the complete bike from Rivendell in 
 Walnut Creek. The bike is excellent condition with larger tire clearance. 
 Price is $3,333. I paid over $4,700. I live locally in the East Bay and 
 prefer local sales.
 Build details:
 Frame (Waterford Built w/custom paint job); Silver Chris King Headset
 Sugino XD Triple 44/34/24, Phil wood Bottom Bracket
 Nitto Noodle Bars 48cm 26.0; Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 26.0
 Shimano Aero Levers; Tecktro Brakers Interuptors, Shimano 9 sp Dura Ace 
 Bar End Shifters
 Shimano XT rear derailleur; Shimano XT front derailleur

 WHEELS: 700c Rear 36 hole Phil Wood Hub 135 Synergy rim; 700c Front 36 
 hole Phil Wood Hub 
 Brakes: Front Paul Neo Retro Brake; Rear Paul Touring Canti Brake w/Paul 
 Moon Units cable guides. Schwable Marathon Dureme Tires
 Nitto S83 Seatpost 26.8
 Nitto cable hanger

 I will also consider selling as a Frame/Fork/Headset/Bottom Bracket 
 Combination with or without other parts. My email is klbeato at gmail. Cell 
 is 510.703.1074
 Keith


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[RBW] Re: Country Bike Rally in Michigan 2015

[Geoffrey]

That sounds pretty cool.  How long of  a ride is it?

On Thursday, December 4, 2014 5:05:21 AM UTC-6, Marc Irwin wrote:

 Along my travels the past few years a few people have asked about a bike 
 rally in Michigan.  Of course there are a lot of places many people would 
 like along the lakeshore, but I realized that two things which have reached 
 international importance are right out my back door and I do it every year. 
  Every year around the end of Sept I ride up to Yankee Springs Campground 
 and spend the weekend where I ride through the forest along the route of the 
 Barry Roubaix http://barry-roubaix.com/gravel race and spend the 
 following day riding (or driving/riding, depending on the weather) to Grand 
 Rapids for the Art Prize competition 
 http://simplecycle-marc.blogspot.com/2011/10/art-and-cycling.html.  
 I thought I would throw that out there and invite anybody who wishes to 
 tag along.  It would be the last weekend of September 2015.  

 Marc


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Re: [RBW] Re: Post Thanksgiving Cranksgiving Dirt Paradise Ride.

[Geoffrey]

Really cool write up and pics!

On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 10:48:40 PM UTC-6, hsmitham wrote:

 Chris,

 Alba ' s in Homers very near future.

 ~Hugh
Los Angeles, CA 
 On Dec 2, 2014 5:09 AM, Pondero cj.sp...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Hugh, currently, all my Rivs are albatross controlled.

 (and stay tuned for the Atlantis reveal)

 Chris Johnson
 Sanger, Texas

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[RBW] Re: Help Choosing Tires - Jack Brown vs. Compass Stampede Pass

[Geoffrey]

I have 2k on the pair of Stampede pass tires on my AHH with one flat, that 
was part of a hawthorne after a really heavy wind storm.  That's it. 
Funny enough, I've flatted three times over 500 miles on the JB's on my 
Bilenky.  I think it's just luck of the draw.

On Monday, December 1, 2014 10:13:56 PM UTC-6, SeanMac wrote:

 Thanks for all of your responses.  Based on what I have read, I am leaning 
 toward giving the Stampede Pass tires a shot.  

 Neil - you addressed the one concern that I still have - that the Stampede 
 Pass will be more flat-prone than other tires.  I'm sorry that the Stampede 
 Pass have been so flat-prone for you.  My reading online has not really 
 found this to be a problem that many people mention with this tire.  Anyone 
 else have flatting issues with Jan's new tires - specifically the Stampede 
 Pass model?

 A number of years ago I purchased a pair of Grand Bois tires (don't 
 remember the specific model) for an old Trek 520 touring bike that I 
 owned.  I liked the way those tires made my bike feel when I rode it, but I 
 do recall that the tires seemed to flat a lot more than other tires that I 
 had used for similar riding.  Who knows, perhaps I just had some bad luck.  
 Anyway, I certainly do not mind fixing a flat tires.  However, its not 
 something that I would choose to do during a ride.

 I'd love to hear a few more data points on these tires.

 Sean

 On Monday, December 1, 2014 4:14:52 PM UTC-5, Neil wrote:

 Lots of folks here on Compass tires! I had a set of Compass 26 x 1.75s on 
 my LHT, liked 'em, and shod the Sam in Barlow Pass tires.
  
 Love love love the feel of these tire...nice and cushy, acceptable 
 traction in the dirt, all around very nice...but not happy with puncture 
 flats at a rate of one every 40 miles, and what I consider excessively 
 quick wear on the rear tire. Jan talks up low pressure as the method for 
 minimizing flats, and I know that environmental factors for punctures are 
 very local in nature, but I ride in the Sierra foothills and Bay Area, run 
 low pressures (around 50 psi), and get lots o' flats.
  
 I don't track mileage closely, but I added the tires in May 2014, and the 
 rear tire was reading as 'halfway worn' as of September 2014 (Jan 
 stipulates that when the longitudinal grooves disappear, the tire is 
 halfway worn). Again, not sure of my mileage, but will certainly be less 
 than 3,000 miles on the rear tire. I've toured very lightly with them 
 (maybe 8 days all told), maybe that was a factor.
  
 Verdict is that I'll be going back to Panaracer Pasela Tourgards, or 
 Marathon Supremes. I really liked Paselas for the price, and had very few 
 flats on the Marathons.



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Re: [RBW] Re: NYC ride report

[Geoffrey]

My brother who rides all through the winter in Western Mass loves the 
Outdoor Research Mutant Mitts.  They're big but for really cold weather, 
they work well.  They're kinda like lobster mitts but it's your thumb, your 
fore finger (trigger finger with these gloves) and then the remaining 
three.  If your trigger finger gets cold you can tuck it in with the other 
three.  List is nearly 200 bucks but someone on ebay is selling surplus for 
much less.  I bought a pair in XXL but haven't used them for riding yet.

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 8:56:50 AM UTC-6, Kainalu wrote:

 That looks great! And cozy! Especially with the orange and wood tones. I 
 think I'd most likely have to reorient my shifters. And what of my lovely 
 bell? Could set up a small contact mic with some computer speakers to 
 broadcast the dings, maybe swap my vp1's for a reverb and a wah wah! 
 But seriously, my best friend and head mechanic, who's in the high hills 
 of the Wasatch range, has been raving to me about bar mitts for years. I 
 think I could talk him into letting me try a pair out, though he does have 
 a rediculous number of bikes to mitt. 
 -Kai

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Re: [RBW] Re: NYC ride report

[Geoffrey]

Here is a link I forgot to include to the ebay 
items: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/130590203591?lpid=82

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 8:56:50 AM UTC-6, Kainalu wrote:

 That looks great! And cozy! Especially with the orange and wood tones. I 
 think I'd most likely have to reorient my shifters. And what of my lovely 
 bell? Could set up a small contact mic with some computer speakers to 
 broadcast the dings, maybe swap my vp1's for a reverb and a wah wah! 
 But seriously, my best friend and head mechanic, who's in the high hills 
 of the Wasatch range, has been raving to me about bar mitts for years. I 
 think I could talk him into letting me try a pair out, though he does have 
 a rediculous number of bikes to mitt. 
 -Kai

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB Schmidt e6 Primary 1st edition

[Geoffrey]

The on / off switch

On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 11:48:24 AM UTC-6, Kendallspower wrote:

 What is the ear you speak of? 

 On Tue, Dec 2, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Philip Williamson philip.w...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 I have a clear lens with a broken ear you can have for the cost of 
 shipping. I still used it after the ear broke.


 Philip
 www.biketinker.com


 On Monday, December 1, 2014 2:16:33 PM UTC-8, Kendallspower wrote:

 Hi! 

 I am putting together a Heron Wayfarer with some older parts. I am 
 looking the original e6 light that did not have the black ring round the 
 bulb/lens.

 The light changed at some point because the guys that like to lay down 
 and pedal complained about the light leaking and blinding them.

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 / Kendall Faeth
 213.327.9093 /

 www.kendallfaeth.com
  

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[RBW] Re: Help Choosing Tires - Jack Brown vs. Compass Stampede Pass

[Geoffrey]

I have a 68cm AHH with Stampede Pass Lightweights, a specialized sequoia 
with Stampede passes and when the JB's on my Bilenky wear out, I'll be 
putting the stampede passes on them. 

On Monday, December 1, 2014 3:14:52 PM UTC-6, Neil wrote:

 Lots of folks here on Compass tires! I had a set of Compass 26 x 1.75s on 
 my LHT, liked 'em, and shod the Sam in Barlow Pass tires.
  
 Love love love the feel of these tire...nice and cushy, acceptable 
 traction in the dirt, all around very nice...but not happy with puncture 
 flats at a rate of one every 40 miles, and what I consider excessively 
 quick wear on the rear tire. Jan talks up low pressure as the method for 
 minimizing flats, and I know that environmental factors for punctures are 
 very local in nature, but I ride in the Sierra foothills and Bay Area, run 
 low pressures (around 50 psi), and get lots o' flats.
  
 I don't track mileage closely, but I added the tires in May 2014, and the 
 rear tire was reading as 'halfway worn' as of September 2014 (Jan 
 stipulates that when the longitudinal grooves disappear, the tire is 
 halfway worn). Again, not sure of my mileage, but will certainly be less 
 than 3,000 miles on the rear tire. I've toured very lightly with them 
 (maybe 8 days all told), maybe that was a factor.
  
 Verdict is that I'll be going back to Panaracer Pasela Tourgards, or 
 Marathon Supremes. I really liked Paselas for the price, and had very few 
 flats on the Marathons.


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