[RBW] Re: New cockpit for '02 Joe Stark custom

[IanA]

A fabulous looking bike and cockpit. After 17 years of ownership, if you were 
discussing a custom today, what would be different?  

In respect to the role that bike plays, that is. 

Ian A

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[RBW] Re: Brooks b17 select - opinions?

[IanA]

I can speak to two standard B17's and one Professional.  I bought the first 
B17 in 2008 (I think) and it has around 40,000km under my bum.  It is 
definitely characterful, but still is firm and usable (I did install a 
longer bolt for extra stretch).  The second B17 was bought around the same 
time and has far less mileage, but has stretched more and I'm thinking of 
drilling and lacing it.

The Professional (standard rivets, brown) was bought 2014(ish) ans has been 
used on some metric centuries and lots of commuting miles.  I love that 
saddle and don't recall adjusting it more than once.  I will admit that it 
was only 40 euros or so as I bought it on sale from Germany.   I find the 
Professional fits somewhat like a slightly narrower B17 - the skirt is less 
intrusive, but the top feels as wide as a B17. The leather feels thicker 
than the B17 IMO.

Ian A

It is this model 
here 
https://www.google.ca/search?q=brooks+professional+chrome+rails=off=2=1366=681=lnms=isch=X=0ahUKEwiEqq2SypDPAhWH6YMKHSDjAIYQ_AUIBigB=1#imgrc=3Lgz5ZJczH6wfM%3A



On Thursday, September 8, 2016 at 8:23:29 PM UTC-6, Jeffrey B wrote:
>
> It's time to consult the wisdom of this group again, this time for some 
> saddle advice. I've heard mixed reviews about the quality of modern 
> "standard" brooks saddles. Is the select line really any better? 
> Specifically, does the leather hold its shape better? Thanks all!
>
> Jeff
> Arlington, VA
>

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[RBW] Re: Another S3X hub

[IanA]

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=s3x



On Sunday, September 11, 2016 at 5:54:42 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I complained about the lash when installed on my Riv fixie gofast, but 
> after all, for the price I paid, it's a very easy way to get climbing gears 
> without having to modify the stripped down gofast by adding, say, 
> derailleur, rear brake/cabling. Perhaps one day when I am old and decrepit, 
> I *will *add a rear brake and use the wonderful AM hub I picked up cheap, 
> but which has a 5 3/4" axle and so can't be used on the 130 mm OL '03 Riv 
> errand bike. (It will work on the 126 OL gofast.)
>
> Anyway, I just found and ordered another S3X, this one set up for 130 mm 
> spacing, which I hope to have built into a wheel for the '03 and to use 
> with either a 17 t freewheel, or perhaps a 16/18 t DOS.
>
> The weather has cooled down greatly, and I'd like to do some "longer" 
> rides -- long for me is 30 miles.* 
>
> I'd love to get a TF for the gofast -- 100% and 25% reduction, and -- so 
> it is said -- very little lash, but the one I saw on eBay built into an old 
> British 27" club wheel has a $650 buy it now price.
>
> Finally, glad I sold all of that stuff -- it allowed me to buy this hub 
> and set aside cash for a wheel build.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: How Rivendells are received in your city ... (was: Rivvish Shop in Santa Barbara?)

[IanA]

"Hey nice Rivendale" was common when I had my Riv. Positive, but wrong!  

I did get asked where my Rivendell came from once and seriously replied "middle 
earth". The fellow was happy with that and carried on. 

I sold mine, but there's the odd Riv around. I saw a SimpleOne a while back and 
talked to its owner for a bit. 

Rivendell carries some cache even this far north. But, being Canada, people 
will spot a Marinoni a mile off. 

Ian A Canada

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[RBW] Re: Potential Sale of '97 Rivendell Road

[IanA]

Can't speak to a sale price, but there's a few Roads and LongLows in the 
archives.  The prices are extremely varied.  I would say though, that if 
you want to attract a buyer, a nice album of photos of the bike in sale 
mode (i.e. exactly as it is being offered), clear measurements (specifying 
center to center, center to top etc.) along with a price for pick-up (where 
located) and a price for packed and shipped is the best way of finding a 
buyer.  Also important for that model are the builder's and painter's 
names.  e.g. built by Curt Goodrich and painted by Joe Bell etc.  Tire 
clearances with and without fenders is useful to mention.

If you do all that and price it right, it will get snapped-up, as it is 
certain to be a beautiful bicycle.  

An example from the 
archives https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/G38oTeZp3qA

Another example with a live photo album link. 
 https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oih_BiG3yP0

Ian A/Canada



On Thursday, September 8, 2016 at 12:31:08 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Before I go to the trouble of taking photos, etc., I wonder if anyone out 
> there would be interested in purchasing my 1997 Rivendell Road. It’s in 
> great condition, built with a Campagnolo grippe (but with Silver downtube 
> shifters) and fully ready to ride. Compact double crank, Nitto bars and 
> stem, Brooks saddle. 
>
> The only issue with the bike is the stem, which is stuck in the steerer 
> and needs some convincing to come out.
>
> Contact me offline if you’re interested.
>
> Partial photo of the bike is attached. The Magnic Light headlights will be 
> removed prior to sale.
>
> --Eric N
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.CampyOnly.com
> Campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
> @Campyonlyguy
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: How to sell a Rivendell Bike

[IanA]

As you're in Vancouver, it's a relatively easy trip to Pt Roberts or even 
Seattle.  RBW listers are your best market, most of whom are located all 
across the USA, so if you ship it from WA to all points (or at least the 
lower 48) you have the best chance of making a bit of money back.  Couple 
that with the US dollar being stronger and you could do alright.  You would 
need to pack the bike very well, but that's not hard to do.  BikeFlights 
via FedEx to destinations within the USA is a great option.  Inexpensive, 
Insurance available and easy to book.

Otherwise, if you want to sell locally,  I'd say drop in at Dream Cycle on 
the Drive and talk it over with Darren (the owner).  I haven't been there 
for ages, but last time I was in, he was into Rivendell (had a butterscotch 
Saluki and a Bleriot on the sales floor).  He seems like a good fellow and 
might have some new bike ideas for you.

If you sold it complete with shipping and insurance packed and shipped to 
the lower 48, you should have no problem selling for US$1650.00 ($1550 
after shipping would get you close to CAD$2000. That might be a bit 
ambitious, but that weaker Canadian dollar makes our re-exports more 
attractive!  And, you can claim to the US customs people that it's US Goods 
returning - they might not charge you any taxes at the crossing.

Ian A/The North!

On Thursday, September 8, 2016 at 8:44:23 PM UTC-6, Cecily Walker wrote:
>
> As many of y'all know, I live in a part of the world where Rivendell bikes 
> aren't widely known. After saving and scrimping for four years to buy my 
> Betty Foy, poor health/chronic illness means I need to sell my Betty Foy 
> for something else - perhaps a Clementine?  My problem is that I really 
> doubt I'll be able to get anywhere near the asking price for a bike that's 
> in darn good shape. 
>
> Do you have any suggestions for how I might make a bike with an $1800-ish 
> asking price more attractive to local buyers? I might go as low as $1500, 
> but that breaks my heart when you consider I paid close to $2500 CAD once 
> all was said and done. 
>
> Thanks,
> Cecily
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: CHEVIOT

[IanA]

I see it now - I was looking at it on the iPhone at first.  It looks like a 
bit of housing liner with some curious ends that stop the liner migrating. 
 Intriguing.

Ian A.

On Sunday, September 4, 2016 at 10:11:37 AM UTC-6, Kellie wrote:
>
> The cable hanger isn't the part René is asking about. You can actually use 
> any yoke though I'd recommend a wide one so it easily goes around the seat 
> tube. I considered Paul's Moonie but what I had has worked fine. The 
> *necessary* part is what the brake cable goes through at the cable stop. 
> It has to fit into the cable stop but not slide all the way through and 
> *stay* in the stop. I'm not sure brake housing will work.
>
> On Wednesday, August 31, 2016 at 4:27:00 PM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:
>>
>>
>> *$2300*. 50cm Cheviot, green in excellent condition with less than 500 
>> miles. Built from a frame with Rivendell-like parts and some upgraded fancy 
>> bits and additional parts. Wheels shod with Rock and Road tires which are 
>> *wonderful* on street and off-road. Don't really want to let go of this 
>> bike but I need the funds to buy an Atlantis. 
>>
>>
>> Paul Racer centerpull brakes (black)
>>
>> Chrystal Fellow seat post
>>
>> Brooks Saddle
>>
>> Thin Gripster pedals
>>
>> Mark's rack: front with basket
>>
>> Pletcher rack: rear with TechLine light (battery)
>>
>> water bottle cage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>
>>
>> *water bottle and Carradice bag not included
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] FS: CHEVIOT

[IanA]

That looks like a cantilever straddle cable hanger. There are lots of different 
types available. 

On that Cheviut, the straddle cable holder is right behind the cable housing 
stop and a short section of housing has been used between the housing stop and 
the cable hanger. A full length brake cable has been used as the straddle 
cable. 


The Compass Cycles staddle cable hanger is super nice to use. 
https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/brakes/rene-herse-straddle-cable-hanger/

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[RBW] Re: What does "Presta" mean?

[IanA]

>From the Latin verb Pressare?  Relating in this case to pressure.  In other 
words "Presta vavle" being synonymous with "pressure valve".  Only a guess, 
I really have no idea.

Ian A/Canada

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:50:38 AM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Almost 40 years ago I bought my first set of wheels with something called 
> "Presta Valves."  I always assumed that  it was Italian for press the pump 
> onto the stem, but now realize that might not be true.  In the last two 
> years I have replaced both my floor pump and a mini pump.  Both of these 
> don't allow me to presta dem on; now I have to screwda dem on.  OK, so the 
> little thingamabob gets pressed down to open the valve, but still I think 
> they should now be called screweda valves.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] New Atlantis setup, loving the drops

[IanA]

What width are the Noodles?  I have had 42cm and currently have 44cm and 46cm. 
The 46 are great on the hoods, but the drops are deep. The 44s are great in the 
drops and there's enough real estate on the top of the bars. I've found all 
three sizes that I've tried to be excellent. 

Ian A/canada

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[RBW] Re: Did a little ride in New England

[IanA]

"It's a good place to be!" wherever we are! Beautiful! Not to mention the black 
humor in the heat of the day!

"Beauty is in the eye of the bike-holder".

Nothing else to add, just wanted to say that, because I came up with it last 
night.  

Ian A/Canada. 

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[RBW] Re: New Riv Fixed/Single Speed in 2017???

[IanA]

Quick One

On Tuesday, July 26, 2016 at 2:43:49 PM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> "Simply Quick"?
> "One Beam"?
>

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[RBW] Re: At least I'm consistant

[IanA]

That's brilliant Ryan!  I enjoy the fact that an IT person eschews "smart" 
phones. 

I went the other way for a year or so. iPhone 4 with pay as you go voice only. 
No data plan. No internet at home and no TV. It was fantastic. I downloaded BBC 
radio podcasts at work via wifi. Also downloaded the iBob and RBW lists in 
digest email. If I had computing to do, I could use a work computer or I had to 
carry my laptop to the coffee shop. 

Now I have Internet at home though, but I should cancel it. It's just too 
invasive somehow. I still use my iPhone 4, which is still in excellent 
condition and works perfectly,  but apparently it's rapidly becoming obsolete. 
I can't use the yoga app anymore. Yoga is a 4000 year old practice that I can't 
book on a three year old computing device! I'm glad my bicycles don't go 
obsolete so quickly. 

Ian A/Canada -  appreciating the convenience of home internet, if reaenting it 
somewhat. 

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[RBW] Re: Appendectomy and cycling- how long to heal?

[IanA]

Interesting stuff.  I have a inguinal hernia that I've been putting off 
having repaired.  Partially because they told me two months off the bike 
and away from yoga and partially because I am still trying to find a 
surgeon who will do it with resorbable mesh.  In Canada, the procedure is 
paid for etc., but it can be a struggle navigating the health service.

I'm starting to feel it more and more and I think I getting some odd 
side-effects from living with it unrepaired, so maybe it;s time.  I've 
though about the exercise following surgery a lot, and am wondering if just 
walking long distances will fill the exercise void and promote health after 
surgery.

Not meaning to derail the thread, but as it is not entirely unrelated 
(surgery etc) I'd appreciate the info.

Ian A/Canada



On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 3:42:23 PM UTC-6, Kainalu wrote:
>
> I'm glad to be rid of it, I just wondered if there were any nightmarish 
> stories of riding before the 4 week mark. I think I'll do my best to stay 
> within the prescribed guidelines. In 6 or so weeks I'll be seeing my 
> mustard Clem for the first time, so perhaps I'll make that my must ride by 
> date. Took my two year old for a long stroller roll today and did some 
> weeding in the planter, and as an oxy-codone every four hours isn't giving 
> me any false courage, I'm just taking it easy...
> Thanks 
> -Kai 
> Brooklyn NY 

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[RBW] Creosote poles, year two.

[IanA]

Creosote is a smell from my childhood - we seemed forever to be creosoting 
fences, sheds and rabbit hutches. It doesn't trouble me, but certain smells do. 
Perfume is one of the worst for me, as are scented soaps, laundry smells 
(especially that awful thing people throw in the dryer). 

I live in a city though, and those human smells are cacophonous in their 
competition. 

A quiet road with a bit of creosote smell to me sounds mild in comparison!  

It's wonderful how you always find the gift the problem offers. Motivating 
stuff. 

Ian A/Canada.  

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[RBW] Aggressive cycling pack and I slipped up today

[IanA]

Group riders tend to lose independant perspective. I think it comes from the 
sheer amount of concentration when riding at speed in a tight pack and also 
just trying to keep up. It the lead rider went wide around you, the pack would 
probably have snaked out and given you room. 

Taking the lane is a good idea until it's not. I have been rear ended at speed, 
but that was in Bolivia. 

I now live in oil country (Alberta Canada) and there is aggression towards 
cyclists (also towards runners, walkers, dogs and all other traffic). 95% of 
the time I take the lane, but I'm not too proud to get off the road entirely, 
especially in low light or icy conditions, or if I see an oversize load coming 
up behind. 

On reading your account, clearly taking the lane would have been safer than 
riding the gutter, but I'm wondering if the safest thing would have been to 
remove yourself from the road altogether until the pack passed. Depends how 
much reaction time you had - if you only had a micro-moment to make a decision, 
reflexes would take one into the gutter. 

Your angry words may have penetrated a couple of ears on the ride and I suspect 
that'll give those ears pause when it comes to disregarding another human's 
safety when out riding in future. 

Ian A/Canada.  

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[RBW] How do you know what the VAT/duty is going to be if you buy from EU/Japan?

[IanA]

There's no export duty payable, but you might have to pay import taxes and the 
customs brokerage fee when bringing stuff into the USA. Most of the goods will 
be duty free.  (Import charges typically encompass duty, tax and brokerage - 
these are three separate items). 

When bringing stuff into Canada, I sometimes get hit with GST on items over 
$100, but it's only 5% plus a nominal brokerage fee if the postal service 
handles it. If it comes FedEx or UPS, the brokerage fee switches from nominal 
to astronomical, which is why most Canadians will only buy from merchants who 
ship via regular mail. 

I have noticed that things enter the US at much higher values without being 
assessed for customs clearance, but I imagine that's only when the postal 
service is used for carriage. If the vendor wants to send DHL, FedEx or UPS, 
the courier companies will need to follow import guidelines for value and 
charge you state sales tax plus their brokerage fee and that could be a 
expensive surprise. 

This is unrelated to the above, but when European and British merchants 
advertise prices, they normally include the VAT in the advertised amount. 
Exports  outside of the EU get the VAT subtracted (20%) so when browsing for 
prices online, keep in mind that unless you've specified your location, the 
price to you will be lower than shown.

Ian A/Canada (used to work in import/export). 

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[RBW] Re: First weekend of riding... ouch.

[IanA]

That collarbone will bother you for a while. I broke mine (Superman landing 
over the handlebars when front wheel locked in a crack in the road).  The 
bone knitted back together relatively quickly and came back together 
straight, but I think the muscles and tendons take quite a bit longer to 
regain strength.  A longer ride would bother the shoulder, but pretty sure 
only because of the muscle atrophy in the area.  As part of your back to 
bike regimen, add in regular sets of push-ups and other strength building 
techniques.  Ron's comments about core strength are good to keep in mind on 
and off the bike.

Best wishes for the continuing healing process and get the strength back as 
soon as possible.

Ian A/Canada

On Monday, May 16, 2016 at 11:56:33 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Big weekend of riding for me... the first real riding since I broke my 
> clavicle on March 9th. Both days this weekend for pleasantly overcast and 
> temps in the high 60-low 70 range. Perfect days to ride. I started out 
> "just" ring the local path out to the river. A nice easy rail to trail 
> grade out and back, right. After getting to the end of it, enjoying the 
> weather, and seeing the minimal elevation dirt trail in front of me, I had 
> to give it a try. At least until it gets bumps (it's all bumpy). Oh what 
> the heck, might as well ride to the end, it's all down-hill from there. Now 
> at the end, I might as well take the dirt trails back home, they're just as 
> down-hill as the streets are!
> In all, 17 miles with 700 ft of elevation... pretty mellow, but bumpy. 
> 
> Favorite pic from the day: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/26414997023/
>
> Next day, I said I'll take it easy. Just go for a ride with the 13 y.o. 
> Same plan, nice and steady. 25 miles and 1700 ft later... 
>  well, my clavicle is 
> definitely hurting today. D'oh!
> Not too many pics from Sunday, but sure found the best back yard to hang 
> out in: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/27039068645/in/photostream/ 
>
> Have decided I don't care of Albatross bars for long rides. I put them on 
> to take the weight off my arms/shoulder, but instead they force my 
> shoulders up too far, and make me feel like I'm hunched up. Lowering the 
> bars puts too much weight on my hands uncomfortably. Probably back to my 
> Moustache bar stand by... 
>
> So good times this weekend! 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What do you crump those Schmidt spade connectors with?

[IanA]

If you don't use the specific crimping tool, it is a good idea to solder, 
before crimping.  Maybe Anton from Velolumino will weigh in with his 
excellent approach.  Also, this article by Jan is highly 
instructive 
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/03/26/wiring-a-light-for-a-son-generator-hub

Needle nose pliers work OK, as long as you are careful not to crush the 
connector,  Having the crimping tool would be a nice luxury.

Ian A/Canada

On Sunday, May 15, 2016 at 2:57:34 PM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Specific tool is near impossible to find in stores or online, unless 60$+ 
> bucks.
> What do you all use as alternatives?
> Or must one order the tool online?

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[RBW] Re: Annoying unwanted commentary/advice while riding a Rivendell.

[IanA]

I'd take that over the comments that I get.  My bikes are Riv-like in 
set-up. My daily ride is a single-speed and I live in a valley, so hills in 
every direction.  I'm 48, most of my hair is grey and I  live in 
oil-country (pick-up trucks and guts) and people just can't believe a man 
of my age could be riding a bicycle in normal clothes.  People surprisingly 
often ask straight-out "hold old ARE you?".  I'm going to have to move 
soon.  I'm fed-up with defending mankind's right to be healthy in their 
prime.  I wish people would stick to denigrating my ride and leave me out 
of it!

There are none so knowledgeable as those with narrow experience.  

Ian A/ Alberta Canada

On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 7:42:39 PM UTC-6, Julian wrote:
>
> I was out on my Rambouillet on a club ride on Sunday (a near perfect 
> spring day -- sun, blue skies, temps in upper 70's, little wind), enjoying 
> the day and the company for the most part, until a fellow I do not really 
> know (those who know me consider the Ram comparatively normal for me!) 
>  rode up on a carbon "wonder bike", said "where'd you get that relic?," 
> "that thing must be a tank," "you're making the club look bad," and a few 
> other choice bits accompanied by a chuckle or two. 
>
> I tried to be polite, pointing out it was not really vintage, that Rivs 
> have great ride characteristics, beautiful aesthetics, that It was the 
> right bike for "me" etc. -- to no avail. After a few minutes of this I got 
> fed up and told him to be quiet and rode away from him. I'm not sure how 
> best to deal with people like that. 
>
> I get this sort of thing from time to time, but usually really minimal 
> compared to this joker. How do you respond? 
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
>

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[RBW] Re: Please discourage me

[IanA]

The trouble with trying to strip a painted bike back to raw is that one 
tends to  end up with the color remaining in areas like the lug joints and 
the awkward bits around the bottom bracket shell etc.  You may find that 
you go through the whole process to end up with a slightly scrappy looking 
job.

Ian A.

On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 at 10:20:00 AM UTC-6, Adama wrote:
>
> Does this ever happen to you?  You get a silly notion.  Doesn't matter how 
> big or how small: you're poaching an egg one morning and decide it's time 
> to switch out the cockpit...chuck the drops, now I'd like to try that 
> Albastache.  Sure, no big deal.  Most of us like to tweak things here or 
> there.
>
> Or: alternately, starring into that same swirling eddy of egg white as it 
> congeals...I'm ready for a mixte...time to scrap the roadie project...I'm 
> all about the step-through now.
>
> It happened to me.  I'm perfectly happy with my Sam 
> .
>
> I've been happy with it for years.  Now I've got this silly notion that I 
> can't shake.  It crept in a year or two ago when I saw some pictures from 
> folks on this list: Powder coat over raw metal, oh how interesting.  
>
> Fast forward several years of breakfast later.  I just can't shake it.  I 
> forget about it now and then, and then something reminds me of that 
> Bombadil, Hunqapillar, and Protovelo... 
>
> So please, discourage me.  How silly it would be to take this beautiful 
> Sam and strip it to bare metal.  We all know that a clear powder coat over 
> raw steel may or may not have much longevity.  Depends.  Let's just forget 
> that for a moment...
>
> Please, indulge me:  let's just say this Sam got stripped of paint.  I'd 
> only want this done if I knew that the frame had not been evenly blasted 
> prior to painting.  The even blasting makes it look it uniform--not 
> bad--but not what I'm going for.  I'd be going for that fiery, uneven look.
>
> My question is: is there any way to know whether my frame had been evenly 
> blasted prior to painting?  Is this making sense?
>
> Thanks,
> Adama
>

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[RBW] EDM / Tap Burner

[IanA]

I've had luck using a narrow punch with a sharp (or sharpened) tip. Hammer the 
punch in a circular pattern to unscrew the bolt. The sharpened end can do a 
good job biting into the sheared bolt. (This is a good first resort method 
before trying an ez out). Spray with WD40 or soak down with a very light oil to 
make the extraction as smooth as possible. 

Worth a try and it's non invasive so no risk of damage to the bike itself. 

Ian A/Currently in the UK. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Joe Appaloosa

[IanA]

Use plastic tankards, lads. Like they have in 
Scotland. 
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/scotland/10083843/Scottish-outrage-at-nanny-state-plan-to-ban-pint-glass-in-Highlands-pubs.html

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 8:26:55 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Thanks, Bill. We'll drink a glass together one day.
>
> On Tue, Mar 8, 2016 at 8:23 PM, Bill Lindsay  > wrote:
>
>> Apology accepted.  Unnecessary 18th century duel cancelled.
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS LongLow F/F/HS

[IanA]

Frame is sold. Thanks to all those who expressed interest. 

Ian A/Canada

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Re: [RBW] Way OT: Is there an Eye Doctor in the House?

[IanA]

Steve is right - these shouldn't be used for driving or sunglasses. They're 
intended for reading with. Being on the computer. I was using mine about half 
an hour a day after a couple of weeks noticed improvements in general vision. 
These are for eye therapy and have worked well for me. 

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[RBW] Way OT: Is there an Eye Doctor in the House?

[IanA]

I've had success with pinhole glasses. I'd highly recommend them. They are all 
I use now for close work. My need for glasses was only for reading and writing 
a couple of years after I turned 40. I've never needed glasses for general use, 
so YMMV, but the claims are that general vision improves with use and I believe 
that to be the case for my distance vision too. 

Mine are similar to these 
http://www.rawlife.com/store/Sports_Style_Pinhole_Sunglasses.html

Ian A. 

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[RBW] Re: Vittoria Voager Hyper Tires on Long Low.

[IanA]

The Voyagers are quite different to the Randonneurs.  The Voyagers used to 
be called Randonneur Pro (I think) and were based on Vittoria's racing 
tires.  Then they came out with a new Randonneur which is tougher, touring 
oriented.  The Voyager is a much livelier tire (so I'm informed, but have 
no personal experience).   This link may shed some 
light https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=80569.0

On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 11:49:19 AM UTC-7, Elisabeth Sherwood wrote:

 Would someone be able to comment on the difference between the Voyageur 
 Hypers and the Randonneur Hypers?  I note that Nashbar has the Randonneur 
 Hypers (the RFX City tires?) for what would seem to be a ridiculously low 
 price ($14.99) at the moment. 700x38 only.

 http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_578278_-1___

 -- Liz S.
 Washington, DC

 On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 1:35:54 PM UTC-5, truegolden wrote:

  
 On two of my bikes I have the Vittoria Voyager Hypers in the 700c x 38 
 which run true to size on the wheels I have them mounted on
 and I have been very pleased.
  
 I have had several flats from goathead stickers and a small nail but most 
 tires would flat from those.
 I think they are one of the better values in tires in this size.
 If they had a 26 size I would be interested.
  
 Safe pedaling,
  
 Paul in Dallas



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[RBW] Re: Vittoria Voager Hyper Tires on Long Low.

[IanA]

The Voyager Hyper are quite different to the Randonneur Pro.  The Voyager 
Hyper used to be called Randonneur Hyper (I think) and were based on 
Vittoria's racing tires.  Then they came out with a new Randonneur Pro 
which is tougher, touring oriented.  The Voyager Hyper is a much livelier 
tire (so I'm informed, but have no personal experience).   This link may 
shed some light https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=80569.0

On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 11:49:19 AM UTC-7, Elisabeth Sherwood wrote:

 Would someone be able to comment on the difference between the Voyageur 
 Hypers and the Randonneur Hypers?  I note that Nashbar has the Randonneur 
 Hypers (the RFX City tires?) for what would seem to be a ridiculously low 
 price ($14.99) at the moment. 700x38 only.

 http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_578278_-1___

 -- Liz S.
 Washington, DC

 On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 1:35:54 PM UTC-5, truegolden wrote:

  
 On two of my bikes I have the Vittoria Voyager Hypers in the 700c x 38 
 which run true to size on the wheels I have them mounted on
 and I have been very pleased.
  
 I have had several flats from goathead stickers and a small nail but most 
 tires would flat from those.
 I think they are one of the better values in tires in this size.
 If they had a 26 size I would be interested.
  
 Safe pedaling,
  
 Paul in Dallas



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Re: [RBW] Vittoria Voager Hyper Tires on Long Low.

[IanA]

They do seem to measure somewhere between 36.5mm and 37.5mm on Synergy 
rims.  The chainstay clearance is much greater than the photo angle shows, 
something like 6mm either side.  No conflict with the rear fender. Good 
distance from the chainstay bridge, but horizontal dropouts make for snug 
wheel removal.  Clearance at the fork is definitely tighter, but still okay 
(I think).  I almost bought the 38mm size - I'm glad I didn't.


On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 9:06:09 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 These tires are said to be good for tandems on the tandem forum that I 
 frequent, for whatever that's worth. 

 The ISO marking of 37-622 seems more accurate than 700x35! 

 That's really minimal chainstay clearance if you ask me.  Surprised 
 you were able to fit them with the fenders.  I see they stop short of 
 the chainstay bridge. 

 On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 5:32 PM, IanA atte...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote: 
  It's the middle of winter here, snow on the ground, cold etc., so I 
 thought 
  I'd put some Planet Bike fenders on the Long Low and try some slightly 
 wider 
  tires  Not that I can ride it for a few more months until the snow 
 clears 
  and the roads are cleaned up (I'm commuting by bicycle daily, but on an 
  older mountain bike).  I'm very much looking forward to trying out the 
  Voyager Hypers on the open road when summer comes.  The tires are marked 
  35mm wide, but measure wider at ~ 60lb of pressure. 
  
  Some photos: 
  
  Ian A/Canada 
  
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 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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[RBW] Re: stripped braze-on

[IanA]

Tapping out to M6 would be one approach.   Otherwise, a longer M5 and a 
nylock nut is a good fix as long as there is no clearance issue - on the 
drive-side there can be interference with cassette/chain.  In this case a 
low profile headed bolt threaded from the inside provides a stud that the 
rack strut is mounted on then secured with a nylock nut.

Ian A/Canada.



On Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:28:28 PM UTC-7, Mobile Bill wrote:

 Hope y'all are getting some time off for riding. In the 70s here, but 
 raining cats and dogs for two days, so working on my bikes and looking for 
 the most practical, creative and immediate solution to a stripped braze-on 
 on my Betty, unfortunately the BO to which the rear rack attaches. Don't 
 know how it happened. Just noticed the rack was loose, and that I could 
 tighten. The 5 mm screw was a little bunged, as well. Tried another screw 
 and it gripped a little deeper, but eventually started spinning as well.


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[RBW] Re: My RBW Sam stock build FSA headset should last how long?

[IanA]

The service life of a headset can be considerable - I've got close to 
40,000kn on a Shimano 105.  Serviced every year or so with new bearings.

I'd imagine there's years of life left in your headset.  A service might be 
a good idea,

IanA.

On Thursday, July 24, 2014 9:18:54 PM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 Don't know what model, but I've had it a year and I get some creaking out 
 of it as I rotate the bars.

 It doesn't feel loose or too tight. Rotates great, just some crackling 
 noises as I push the bars back and forth. I guess 2k miles on it.


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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

[IanA]

Your workshop looks a lot like mine!  Nice work - I'm impressed that you 
finish one part of the job, sort the tools out and keep the floor/walk 
space clear so there is no tripping over/damaging parts.  Excellent.

IanA.

On Monday, July 21, 2014 2:24:43 PM UTC-6, John Stowe wrote:

 Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
 our Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
 approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
 snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
 frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
 suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
 top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
 maintenance, but frame issues are definitely above my pay grade - 
 assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
 home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

 I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water 
 and then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and 
 showed me that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint 
 between the lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or 
 took to develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park 
 it, and opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I 
 looked at much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it 
 cleaned up, I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little tab on the 
 right is bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if 
 it was a paint chip or metal).


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/Bcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg
 I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to 
 me (I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so 
 saving a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I 
 figured I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
 repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
 to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
 for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
 baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
 low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
 stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
 adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
 Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
 lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

 Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for a 
 new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better fit 
 for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 58cm 
 is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a week, 
 and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked frame 
 back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being ever-so-slightly 
 longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a lot quicker than 
 the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro (sadly, having such 
 things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy drivers around) on the 
 ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks like when I'm working on 
 my bikes:

 http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

 It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
 going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
 non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

 My question for the group is: did I get a second new bike day, or just a 
 fixed bike day? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
 and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
 which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
 Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
 summer (This picture also should answer the question: what good are those 
 giant Bosco Bullmoose bars, really? Getting around babies with giant heads, 
 of course!):


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SzummpC179E/U81uEahzALI/Bcw/PYE4LnUrm0w/s1600/IMG_2496.jpg
 Two thoughts on shifting since moving to the new frame: 

 1. I had a bear of a time getting the front derailleur to shift properly 
 when I swapped frames, especially into the smallest chainring (of a Sugino 
 triple). I was using what I think is the same low-profile Shimano MTB 
 derailleur that Riv sells, but I just couldn't get it to move in far 
 enough, and anyway, when I mounted it as low/close as Shimano recommends, 
 shifting to the big/big combination (48/32) would make the chain rub on the 
 lever arm where the cable

Re: [RBW] Red Bombadil!

[IanA]

If it fits a wide 26 tire (2 plus)) it would be a perfect adventure 
tourer/rough stuff bike.  My size, more-or-less, but it sold already! 

IanA.

On Monday, July 21, 2014 9:49:46 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 At that price, you could buy it, re-place the canti posts for 650B, and 
 have it re-painted for less than a new one! I like the stem, too.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:41 AM, Cyclofiend Jim cyclo...@earthlink.net 
 javascript: wrote:

 I do find myself looking at all that unused tire clearance and just 
 shaking my head.  

 But, it does look like a great frame wearing a lot of cast off mtb parts. 
 (and showing a ton of seatpost...)

 - J

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[RBW] Re: Edeluxe on sidepull bike mounting?

[IanA]

I went dynamo crazy, having a dynamo set-up on all of the three bikes I 
own.  Two have the old style SON28 and one has a Shimano DH3n80.  Two of 
the bikes have the 60LUX Phillips Saferide and one has an Eyc. Any 
combination of the above works perfectly.  All have dynamo tail-lights, but 
battery tail-lights would be no real hassle.  Just nice to always have 
power and never to worry about batteries, so I wired dynamo lights to the 
rear.

An excellent quality budget set-up could be the Shimano DH3n72 hub and an 
Eyc headlight.  This would be a fraction of the cost of the SON/Edelux 
route and not much different for all practical purposes.  The Saferide is 
reported to work as well as the Edelux 1 (some say better) and actually the 
Eyc, to my eye, seems pretty much as good as the Saferide.  Not the same, 
but certainly excellent in city use.  The Saferide has a better capacitor, 
is almost completely flicker free and has a longer beam.  The Eyc is 
ridiculously light and compact, slightly narrower beam, but excellent 
near-field lighting.  

Shutter Precision (SP hubs) have some attractive prices and seem to compete 
well. 

FWIW I can't tell a difference in use between the Shimano and SON hubs.  I 
can't even tell if there is drag when the lights are on (or off for that 
matter).  The Shimano hub has a much nicer connection method - no soldering 
or crimping required.  The SON hubs have completely sealed bearings, which 
might be a consideration if using for winter riding.

You can't go wrong really, whichever components you choose.  I find dynamo 
lighting to be the biggest luxury - when I had battery lighting, I always 
would think about battery conservation, so would be careful about using the 
lights when not 100% necessary.   Now I can run lights 24 hours a day, 
except that people just stare a my bicycle headlights in the daytime, 
presumable wondering why my lights are on.  There is one drawback - I tend 
to ride the long way home at night, just so I can use my lights more.

IanA


On Saturday, July 19, 2014 1:07:27 PM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 Still mulling over getting a hub generator and light.
 Crazy expensive, though.
 Seems like most quality bike things are getting crazy expensive these days.

 *1. How to mount an edeluxe to a sidepull bike?*
 No interest in a front rack at this point.
 Just want to get a hub and a light.

 *2. Also: the new wireless Son hub is only wireless hub to fork dropout 
 attachment, right? You still have to run wires from fork dropout to light?*


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[RBW] Re: Loading An Atlantis

[IanA]

Not on an Atlantis for me, but on my Marinoni Turismo a rear only load is 
horrible on steep climbs and also when walking the bike (it's like 
wrestling a python then).  I found rear panniers, front panniers on low 
riders and a smallish handlebar bag to work best.  I had to play with the 
fore-aft position of the front panniers on the Tubus Tara rails to avoid 
shimmy.  

One does save some weight by not having the front rack/panniers (like 2kg 
or so) so it is a consideration.

IanA/Edmonton

On Friday, July 11, 2014 1:36:34 PM UTC-6, LAP57 wrote:

 I have done some shorter tours on my Atlantis,  3 to 5 days.  I have used 
 light weight back packing gear and gotten by with a Boxy Baggins in the 
 front and a Hoss in the back and no racks.  I am looking at doing a longer 
 tour and my original plan was to use a large Berthoud bag in the front and 
 two mid sized panniers in the rear.  My friend who has done a lot of 
 touring says I will need more weight in the front, ie front panniers to 
 distribute the load better.  Can anyone with experience comment on how best 
 to load up an Atlantis for the best handling?

 Thanks.

 Larry Powers 
  
 Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain
  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone missing an Atlantis?

[IanA]

I wonder if they are estate sale bikes?  Careful who who you will your 
bikes to!

On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 11:22:03 AM UTC-6, Anne Paulson wrote:

 Now the person who posted, who says his name is Michael, says he is the 
 original owner, and gives a phone number on the All-rounder listing. I hope 
 someone who is interested in the bike gives him a call. There's got to be 
 more to this story. Why would someone who owns such nice, individualized 
 bikes not know anything about them?

 I wonder if Michael is an elderly guy whose child or grandchild helped 
 with the listing.


 On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 10:18 AM, Peter Morgano uscpet...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 The eBay listing are updated with bad photos and cryptic measurements. 
 On Jul 2, 2014 1:16 PM, Joe Bernard joer...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 So who is blasting these bikes with water, then posting them for sale? 
 This is very weird.

 JB

 On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 8:02:05 AM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

 Pretty clearly the same bike, though with probably more accurate (for 
 the period) color on the frame.  

 Location is the same area, as is the asking price.



 On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 5:54:31 AM UTC-7, bingomck wrote:

 All-Rounder on Reno Craigslist too it looks 
 http://reno.craigslist.org/spo/4546766041.html 

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 It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 


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Re: [RBW] Overheard at a bike shop

[IanA]

The issue of bike fit is a definite mine-field with strong opinions held by 
many.  I've had strangers compliment my bicycle, then say a bit too big 
for you though.  It kind of bothers me, but off they go clacking away, 
lycra at the rustle thrying desperately to stretch their neck before riding 
off in order to measure their cadence.  I never say that's a nice dayglo 
yellow lycra shirt - a bit too small for you though.  They've normally 
ridden off at 30mph before I've even thought of such a rejoinder. 

IanA (not just slow on two wheels).

On Monday, June 30, 2014 2:09:00 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Mommy! I feel as if I am going to fall over!

 One last* post on this topic, to ensure that I do all I can to justify 
 myself. 

 The customer in question was quite young and struck me as nice but naive; 
 he also struck me as exceedingly tall -- my younger brother is 6'2 and 
 this young man was noticeably taller. 

 At any rate, this young customer had a sort of appealing puppy dog quality 
 to him, and I am confident that this allure helped tipped my natural 
 shyness and reticence over the edge of righteous indignation. (The 
 righteous indignation of a cop. Ed. Abby.)

 More seriously: I live up to my astrological sign of Mars, and am 
 combative and easily raised to indignation, and I fully admit that my 
 intervention was not that of the meek and turn the other cheek variety. 
 But, seriously (still!) I think that, by Scotching (did I offend you?) that 
 sale, I did that young man a favor.

 Over and out. For now.

 Patrick Moore, surfing the serotonin rush from a nice, but hot (101*F! 
 Humid at 15%!) ride in hotterthan usual ABQ, NM.

 * Hah!


 On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 1:38 PM, Tim Gavin tim@littlevillagemag.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 I wonder if the owner of this bike was sold the wrong bike and then 
 tried to remedy that?  Or if he had this vision from the get-go?



 He has a Riv-approved bar height on those aero bars... but via some kind 
 of stem-strosity.

 And his seat is wa tall.  This looks like the result of the buy the 
 smallest frame you can so you save weight philosophy.

 Sigh.

 http://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/bik/4503706745.html


 On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 2:31 PM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 For the record, the incident I related involved a case where the buyer, 
 had he bought, would have spent money on something ill fitting, therefore a 
 waste of money to that extent. This was not a matter of taste. One may 
 feel obliged to remain silent even in such a case, but I did not.


 On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Brewster Fong bfd...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:


 On Monday, June 30, 2014 10:00:05 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:


 I agree Bobby ,

   I'm all for the support of a LBS.  Yet am I based on own prejudices 
 , going to interfere with their business ?   This seems hypocritical .  
 Yes, saying my bike or riding my-way-is-thee-way is my own pre-judging 
 my-way-is-thee-way as thee-best-way.

  
 Agree, a shop is in the business of selling bikes. If it is that narrow 
 minded to put on a buyer on the wrong bike, then I doubt that bike shop is 
 going to be in business for very long. My LBS has been around since 
 1975. The owner is one of the best fitters in the SF Bay Area. But he 
 sells 
 all types of bikes. He has the latest carbon Time, Looks, Bianchis and 
 Giants. He also sells the new Albion and other steel bikes from 
 custom (formerly US distributor for Ron Cooper to Della Santa to the 
 latest 
 from the new Masi, Soma and Waterford).  He also has a wall full of 
 Colnagos including steel and carbon. 
  
 But, the key is to put you on the type of bike that you will ride! If 
 it means putting you the latest 14lb carbon wonder bike with your bar 
 dropped 6 inches below the saddle and 11-23 11speed cassette, done. If you 
 want a steel bike with bars higher than your saddle and 13-34 gearing with 
 a triple, done!  If you're a fat guy, like me (e.g., 200lb) and want 
 carbon, no problem. But he's give you a compact crank (50/34) and low 
 gearing (11-28; 12-30)  to help you get up the hill. He will also raise 
 dat bar when needed!  Whatever works to get you on the road and enjoying 
 your bike!  Good Luck! 


 Is it really ?  Compared to who ?  My choices work for me, if someone 
 wishes to emulate that in some way, great. If not, great .

 Would I like if I had business selling bikes, have customers 
 discouraging potential customers from buying my bikes ? . .  . I think 
 not 
 ! 


 There are many facets to the Golden Rule ! The shop owner qualifies as 
 someone whom I wish well for also , not just a customer I think is being 
 taken advantage of. Vengeance and self-righteousness can be very subtle , 
 like a calm sea masking the tsumani within it. 

 All THAT said . ..  lol .  . .  there is no absolute right or wrong 
 answer, just infinite ways of answering .  This, is Life. 



 On Monday, June 30, 2014 11:42:05

[RBW] Re: Touring click in shoes without using the click in on platforms/rat traps feasable?

[IanA]

A better combination could be trail runners on sneaker pedals.  For long 
distance riding I think I prefer to use mountain bike shoes, clipped in, 
but for touring it is inconvenient to carry off-the-bike footwear and 
cycling shoes as off bike footwear are not good (YMMV).  I have done a few 
long rides on MKS touring pedals and sneakers, but found it very 
uncomfortable as the cage for me doesn't feel like it offers full foot 
support.  The sides of my feet were in pain.  Considering Deacon Patrick 
happily covers long distances in bare feet, his pedal choice could work for 
someone in runners too?

Curiously, I have found the flat pedal side of Shimano M324 pedals work 
well for me with just about any shoe.  For randonneuring/jaunts I like to 
clip in, for touring it is not convenient.  Certainly not worth the 
drawbacks of having cycling specific shoes and then not to clip in.  

You might find an extra insole inside runners/trail runners on a supportive 
flat pedal gives the same benefit as a stiff soled shoe.  

Maybe Deacon Patrick will expand a little on his footwear (or lack therof) 
approach?  He brings a greater depth of meaning to pedaling free and his 
choice of pedal would be well worth consideration.

IanA.

On Sunday, June 29, 2014 10:06:44 PM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 Keeping the cleat sole insert in place on the shoe. Not removing it for a 
 cleat, and then riding the shoe on platforms, or MKS Touring type pedals.

 Been riding in sneakers, and wondered how a stiffer soled touring cycling 
 shoe without clicking in would work, but wonder if these soles would even 
 work with platforms.

 Sorta like these:

 http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/us/fw/products/tour/index.php


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[RBW] Re: Overheard at a bike shop

[IanA]

I was once in an aisle of a sports shop and there were two fellows, one 
advising (the expert friend), one looking to buy high performance clip-in 
road shoes for his commute.  I casually mentioned that flat pedals would 
work well and he could ride to work in his regular shoes and that had 
worked well for me.  Otherwise a shoe with a recessed cleat would work 
better than a pure road shoe as sometimes a person needs to dismount.  I 
wasn't trying to take over, just sharing based on several years of 
experience.  

I won't be doing that again!  My casual opinion was a threat to the 
expert-friend and he responded as though threatened.  The innocent friend 
now had to take the side of his expert buddy etc.  I walked away without 
getting anymore involved. 

Anyway - what if I'm wrong?

IanA.


On Thursday, June 26, 2014 10:53:41 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I don't understand the tongue biting. Why not find a moment and say 
 something to the customer, quietly? Just something short and sweet to let 
 them know there are other options? A shop that doesn't lose customers 
 because they don't offer options won't add those options in the future, a 
 shop that has customers say I want something for me, not for you, and 
 then leave, will begin self-examination. 

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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[RBW] Re: synergy rims (again?)

[IanA]

In terms of the creaking, it would be a good idea to find out exactly what 
is the cause.  If you could try a different wheel on the back and if the 
creaking is still there, it could be bottom bracket related, or a pedal or 
the saddle or any number of things.  It can be difficult to find the cause 
of a creak, squeak or rattle, but some investigation is certainly necessary 
as damage to threads could occur if the creaking is at the bottom bracket, 
for example.  That us to say if the BB has partially un-threaded itself.

Cracks in a wheel can also make a creaking sound, but they should be 
reasonably easy to spot.  Look for hairline cracks starting at the spoke 
hole or eyelet on the rim. A friend of mine rode a rim with cracks in it 
for some distance (a few weeks while touring) and it didn't cause problems, 
but he described the noises as alarming.

If the problem is the rim itself, assuming the wheel-builder sourced the 
rim for you, he should be able to sort out any warranty stuff.  Velocity 
have a good reputation for customer service, so it's worth following up.

IanA.



On Monday, June 9, 2014 8:21:06 PM UTC-6, MobileBill wrote:

 I say this recognizing that I might be jumping to conclusions, but I seem 
 to have once again had problems with Synergy OC 650B rims. Since so many of 
 you have them, I'm asking you to help my analyze whether the problem is the 
 rim or something else.
 Here's the issue: A really severe creaking has been rattling through 
 the frame and getting worse for some months. I mean howling loud - you 
 could hear me creaking from a block away. It was worse when I turned the 
 pedals, but it made some noise all the time. I changed saddles, retightened 
 bb and chainrings and pedals, reset cassette and checked rear hub and 
 finally got the bright idea of changing out the wheel.
 As soon as I did, the noise stopped. Now I'm looking at the rim, and I 
 see the same hairline cracks developing around the eyelets that I had 
 developing with my first synergy oc rim several years ago.
 This relatively new rim, a replacement for the first cracked synergy 
 oc rim, only has a little over 2000 miles on it. It was built by one of the 
 best wheelbuilders. I thought that the early problems with oc rims had been 
 fixed.
  I don't think it's just me: I weigh 180 pounds and inflate Schwalbe 
 marathons to no more than 60 psi. I carry groceries home on my commute, and 
 travel occasionally rough city streets, but do not ride this bike off road 
 (though I would like to if the danged rims could be trusted).
  Do you think the creaking and the cracking are related?
  How long can I keep riding with cracked rims?
  Is anyone else experiencing this rim cracking? I don't have this 
 problem on any other rims, including some less stout Mavic rims ...
  Is this something that should be happening this quickly (my Marathon 
 tires last two to three times longer than the rim!)?
  SHould I pester velocity? the wheel builder?
  
  


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[RBW] Coloring Ortlieb Bag?

[IanA]

Strange topic, perhaps, but I bought myself a set of Ortlieb and Vaude bags 
for my LongLow.  The side panniers are all black and I like that look.  The 
handlebar bag was on sale and only yellow ones were left.  I thought I 
could live with it, but it really clashes with the green paint of the LL. 
 I probably shouldn't be bothered, but I kind of wish I'd spent the extra 
$30 and got the color I would have preferred (black).  Live and learn.  Is 
it possible to change the color of a vinyl bag?  It's the Ortlieb Classic 
bar bag - the shiny vinyl finish.  Any insight would be appreciated.

IanA.

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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[IanA]

It might still be ok - worth torquing it down and trying it. If it is shot, 
the Sugino XD crank arms are sold individually for example:  
http://www.jensonusa.com/Sugino-XD-Crank-Arm

IanA

On Monday, May 26, 2014 7:24:29 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 In that case mine is probably ruined then - I rode it at least 25 miles 
 continually stopping and tightening it.  I didn't really have a choice 
 though, I was in the middle of nowhere and needed to limp it back to some 
 semblance of civilization where I had enough cell phone signal to call for 
 help.

 On Monday, May 26, 2014, blakcloud blakc...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 As a crank arm loosens off its tapered steel bottom bracket axle, the 
 wiggle room allows the square taper hole to become misshapen. This happens 
 over very little time as the crank arm is made of softer aluminum that the 
 harder steel bottom bracket spindle. Depending on how long you have ridden 
 with it loose, typically determines how misshapen the hole becomes. Tony, 
 if the arm was loose only for your ride I wouldn't worry about it but if it 
 was loose for a week, but you only noticed it that morning, there could be 
 a problem. The only way to know is tighten the crank bolt and see what 
 happens. If you tighten it and it becomes loose again, time to replace the 
 crank arm. 

 It is one of those lessons in life you learn once and it never happens 
 again. 



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 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!


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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[IanA]

This link to Jan Heine's blog is informative.  I would try this method 
before giving up on the crank. 
 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/04/16/to-grease-or-not-to-grease/

As an aside, I had a Sugino GP come loose on me a couple of times.  I 
torqued it down properly and it's been perfect ever since, but I have heard 
of people damaging the taper by running the crank loose - I don't know how 
likely that is.  Red Locktite should only be used to forever seize metal 
threads.  I can't think of a single application where red Locktite should 
be used on a bicycle.  The blue stuff is great for things like fender and 
rack bolts - bolts that tend to vibrate loose.  The blue Locktite is a good 
anti-seize/lubricate during installation product. Blue Locktite could be 
okay to use on the crank bolt threads, but the taper wouldn't need it, just 
light grease apparently.

Ian A.  

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 1:44:05 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Well I was riding a 1000k brevet and about 75 miles into the 2nd day's 
 ride, I noticed that my left side crank had come loose.  I tightened it 
 down but it was loose again in a mile.  So I really torqued it down and 
 that lasted about five miles.  So this pattern persisted, but it kept 
 getting worse until I could only ride a few hundred yards before the 
 crankarm was loose again.

 I finally abandoned my 1000k at the next town, Buffalo, TX, where I am 
 currently stranded.  But I'm just trying to figure out where I went wrong.

 What is the required torque for spare taper spindle cranks?  My friends 
 kept saying it just wasn't possible to get enough torque on the bolt using 
 a multi-tool, but I am pretty strong and I put as much tightening force 
 into it as I could.

 Would Locktite Red have helped?  Tried to find some but no auto parts 
 stores in this town are open Sunday.

 The threads don't seem to be stripped, but is it possible the spindle is 
 cracked?

 Is my taper trashed now?

 Parts:  Sugino XD600, BB-UN-55.

 Mileage completed:  321.

 Pic:  there it sits.


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[RBW] Re: 400k plus

[IanA]

Hi Tim,

Good luck on completing the upcoming brevet series and on accomplishing the 
PBP - I'm sure you'll do really well.

My longest distance was 400km and the longest before that was a large 
number of solo 200km rides (I skipped the 300km!) so my advice would be 
anecdotal, but I did find the struggle for me on the 400km was nutrition 
management (I was vegan at that time).  The weather was good, so I didn't 
have to worry about clothing on that 400km.  On some of the 200km rides I 
got very cold and wet and I'm still learning about clothing and equipment, 
but sadly I work too much now and my riding is limited to commuting and 
grocery shop (for shame). I liked the 200km training rides as I could sneak 
one in every time I had a free day.

I don't know if you are familiar with the Randon list? 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/randon - worth posting your same 
questions there.  You'll find a wealth of enthusiastic experience to draw 
from.

Of course, ride reports are encouraged on this list as are photos.

Ian A. 



On Friday, May 23, 2014 6:05:14 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 I know several of you in the group ride brevets so it's time to pick your 
 brains. I've taken them up again this year. In 2011 i completed a 200k, had 
 a DNF 300k followed by finishing a planned 175 mile ride. I've had no rides 
 over 50-60 miles since until this year, got fat, etc. I decided I needed a 
 goal to help motivate me so I put PBP 2015 on the calendar. I've lost over 
 45 lbs and am loving riding again. I did a 200k a couple of weeks ago and 
 have a 300k next week which I'm nervous about but fairly confident. My 
 question is about beyond that. I'm wondering if I need to progress to the 
 other distances. In other words, should I try 350k before 400 then 500 
 before 600? Or do you think that by the time I've gone 300k that the base 
 is built up enough to sustain the larger jumps in time and distance? Riv 
 content: I'm riding this on my Homer and loving it! I'd like to complete 
 the whole series (200,300,400, 600) this summer so I'll have a good taste 
 for what's in store next year in Paris.

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[RBW] Re: 7-speed cassette with XD@ cranks and Deore derailers ok to run on a Blue Sam?

[IanA]

Agreeing with Patrick Moore and others on the try 9 speed friction and see 
how it goes.  I have to say that I really like 8 speed on friction better 
than 7 speed - probably because the wide range 7 speed cassette (13-34) on 
a triple 52/42/28 had some big jumps.  In contrast my current 8 speed 
(12-28) on 48/38/28 makes for comfortable steps between gears.  In terms of 
ease of shifting - with friction I've run/do run 6 speed, 7 speed and 8 
speed and I can't detect any difference in ease of shifts.  The more 
important aspects are how clean the drive train is, how smooth the cable 
action is and how comfortably the shifter moves - that affects accuracy 
substantially more than feel.

Ian A.


On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 1:53:22 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

 I have 9, want to go to 8. But am thinking for better friction shifting go 
 whole hog and get a 7 speed cassette and chain.

 Can I do that on a Sam with XT front derailer and Deore rear?

 Does chainline factor in, or is a shimano 7 speed cassette the same width 
 as an 8 speed? Will the 7 speed chain fit the derailer cages?


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[RBW] Re: Pedal Strike - LongLow

[IanA]

Thank you for this insight - the pedals are wide, so I've now got a 
narrower set - I think it will make quite a big difference.  I'm never 
going fast enough on the straights, so I have no excuse for pedaling 
through corners, but hopefully the new pedals will go some way to mitigate 
my sloth.

IanA. 



On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 8:15:06 AM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:

 I'd consider getting different pedals. The lean angle allowed by pedals 
 varies significantly, and if you have some wide pedals with big cages, you 
 can pick up a lot of clearance...

 If you have pedals that allow a decent lean angle and still strike your 
 pedals, then I'd consider coasting instead. Pedaling around fast corners is 
 not a good habit. I learned this when racing, on a criterium course in 
 Portland on wide streets. I broke away and was hoping to stay away until 
 the finish. In a few corners, my pedals lightly touched the ground during 
 every lap, until, with one lap to go, I touched a little harder and crashed.

 I think it was Greg LeMond who said that if you can pedal through a 
 corner, it means you weren't going fast enough on the straights.

 At slow speeds, you often have to pedal around corners just to stay 
 upright. In those situations, you aren't leaning much, and toe overlap is 
 your big problem, not pedal strike.

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/


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[RBW] Re: A Tale of Two Saluki's

[IanA]

I'll play. I prefer greens and blues generally, as colors go.  Turquoise 
has always been a fascinating color for me, as is the seam foam of the 
Atlantis.  I've never been drawn to purple - depending on the shade for me 
it ranges from indifferent to unpleasant.  But, at the risk of splitting 
hairs, I'm inclined to believe the Saluki is lilac which evokes the poetry 
of John Whitman.  So whereas the green bike is by definition faster, the 
lilac one is poetic.

Ian A.



On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:47:18 PM UTC-6, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 By Bill and Tony (and Amy and Steve)

 Almost ten years later two Saluki's get dragged into a garage to compare 
 life story's and go home with new riders!  My Purple-Luki (#0017, via Amy) 
 and Bill's Green-Luki (#008, via Steve) are two great looking bikes.  Both 
 size 60cm Saluki's and the only noticeable frame delta is the lower 
 placement of the low rider braze on's for the Green-Luki.  How cool is it 
 to see these two side by side as bare frames!?!  I couldn't be happier with 
 my 'fairway green' bike and it sounds like Bill is looking forward to 
 building up a striking Moustache Bar'd rig with the Agapanthus Purple... 
 seems like a win win!

 Bill wanted to poll the list on personal color preferences between the 
 two... obviously he and I have already cast our votes but we're curious 
 where the RBW-OB's are on the Green vs Purple.  What say you?!?

 Regardless it is cool to know a bit about the history behind a used frame 
 ('rolling art' as Bill said on Sunday)...


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lcYZ1SSDjoc/U31_qAUq2yI/ECQ/rCJDtJ4sFdM/s1600/DSC_3602.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Jt9AEcNucJY/U31_wIXqPMI/ECY/kL8awEmtsUQ/s1600/DSC_3606.jpg


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TY2rrX-DPSM/U31_1z3FpBI/ECg/auH0xpH6r7s/s1600/DSC_3610.jpg






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[RBW] Re: A Tale of Two Saluki's

[IanA]

I'll play. I prefer greens and blues generally, as colors go.  Turquoise 
has always been a fascinating color for me, as is the seam foam of the 
Atlantis.  I've never been drawn to purple - depending on the shade for me 
it ranges from indifferent to unpleasant.  But, at the risk of splitting 
hairs, I'm inclined to believe the Saluki is lilac which evokes the poetry 
of Walt Whitman.  So whereas the green bike is by definition faster, the 
lilac one is poetic.

Ian A.

(Edited - for some reason my original draft blended John Donne with Walt 
Whitman - don't ask me why).

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:47:18 PM UTC-6, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 By Bill and Tony (and Amy and Steve)

 Almost ten years later two Saluki's get dragged into a garage to compare 
 life story's and go home with new riders!  My Purple-Luki (#0017, via Amy) 
 and Bill's Green-Luki (#008, via Steve) are two great looking bikes.  Both 
 size 60cm Saluki's and the only noticeable frame delta is the lower 
 placement of the low rider braze on's for the Green-Luki.  How cool is it 
 to see these two side by side as bare frames!?!  I couldn't be happier with 
 my 'fairway green' bike and it sounds like Bill is looking forward to 
 building up a striking Moustache Bar'd rig with the Agapanthus Purple... 
 seems like a win win!

 Bill wanted to poll the list on personal color preferences between the 
 two... obviously he and I have already cast our votes but we're curious 
 where the RBW-OB's are on the Green vs Purple.  What say you?!?

 Regardless it is cool to know a bit about the history behind a used frame 
 ('rolling art' as Bill said on Sunday)...


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lcYZ1SSDjoc/U31_qAUq2yI/ECQ/rCJDtJ4sFdM/s1600/DSC_3602.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Jt9AEcNucJY/U31_wIXqPMI/ECY/kL8awEmtsUQ/s1600/DSC_3606.jpg


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TY2rrX-DPSM/U31_1z3FpBI/ECg/auH0xpH6r7s/s1600/DSC_3610.jpg






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[RBW] Pedal Strike - LongLow

[IanA]

Well, winter has finally passed and the road grit has mostly been swept 
away, so the LongLow came out of storage (the livingroom - where else?) and 
I was enjoying whipping along at speeds I'd all but forgotten about on my 
80's mountain bike that continues reliably in all conditions, but is dogged 
about it.  The problem is that the mountain bike has a high bottom bracket 
and will not pedal strike even when pedaling during tight lean through turn.

First day out on the LL this year and I hit speeds of 55km/h (downhill), 
but even on the flats the computer told me 40 km/h once or twice.  Such 
fun.  Sadly, at quite low speed thankfully, I turned sharply, pedaling 
through grounding my pedal and stalling the bike.  The pannier saved the 
bike from scratches and I was unscathed.  A little rubber shaved off the 
bar end shifter.

It used to be my habit to coast through hard turns with the pedal in the 12 
o clock position on the lean side.  I'm concerned that I've been retrained 
by my mountain bike.  I'm worried that I'll forget one time too many.  Does 
this happen to anyone else?  If so, does the body remember when the mind is 
absent?  The LL has such a low bb that if one forgets pedal strike is to be 
expected.

Ian A/the unfrozen north.




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Re: [RBW] Riding Sandals for sweaty feet

[IanA]

Wool socks might be a good solution - maybe short ones that don't reach 
above the ankle bone in a neutral color.  I've found foot talc powder to be 
great at neutralizing bacteria, so a dusting of talc + a thin wool sock 
could be an economical and effective solution.  Worth a try anyway.  I used 
to use anti bacterial foot powder in Argentina for my pits as well as feet 
(I don't like regular deodorants and couldn't get the mineral rock crystal 
that works great for me  (example here: 
http://matthewgustke.com/2013/04/14/simplifying-deodorant/) - actually that 
crystal works great on feet too.  You might have to try two or three 
different talcs to find one that works best for you. The best thing about 
the talc is that is functions as a conditioner, so the skin on the feet 
feels silky soft and smooth.  That may or may not be important to you.

IanA.

On Monday, May 12, 2014 5:54:44 PM UTC-6, Fullylugged wrote:

 Wool socks might help a lot. Wool does not support bacterial growth (the 
 scent source) and basically, doesn't smell.


 On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 3:07 PM, Peter Morgano 
 uscpet...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I have no shame, I am a sweaty sweaty man. When I wrestled it was 4 t 
 shirts in 4 hours of practice. I love riding in my tevas but my wife has 
 commanded they now live outside due to the smell they are generating from 
 my sweaty feet. Anyone know of a sandal either leather or synthetic that 
 can help? I would rather just wear the sandals and be able to hop on the 
 bike, not put them on like a ritual before each ride. Thanks
  
 Peter

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis as touring bike: best choice?

[IanA]

Under $1700 is a good price for a custom frame.  I toured extensively on a 
frame with 8/5/8 tubing and while it was a noodle in some (lots of) 
circumstances and the 700 wheels didn't do so well on rough stuff, it still 
planed, somehow even with 50lb of gear.  It was loaded too heavily for the 
design, but not crazily so.  I'd love a 26 bike with clearance for 2.2 
tires w/fenders, but with a sport-tourer feel . Handsome's XOXO is close in 
concept.  

Does a touring bike really have to be a tank?  My daily ride is potentially 
a great expedition tourer, an 80's Rocky Mountain that I put drops on. 
 That Rocky is what I almost always grab for 90% of riding, but, when 
riding 8+ hours a day, wouldn't a bit of of frame flex and a slight loss of 
sureness be preferable to predicable but solid?  This is a genuine question 
- Atlantis clearances on something approaching Rambouillet tubing, made for 
26 wheels?

IanA.




On Monday, May 12, 2014 7:04:16 AM UTC-6, Garth wrote:


Franklin Frames in Ohio will build you anything your heart desires :)   
 And he does not have a long wait time.  Jack Trumbull is prea tty much a 
 one man operation in rural Ohio .  He is definitely under the radar, so 
 speak  He told me that Riv once contacted him about building some frames, 
 but he declined . He also paints and does any type of frame repair.  You 
 can get a full touring or any other type of rig from $1400-$1680 for your 
 choice of steel, lugged or fillet brazed.  He builds from titanium, 
 stainless and carbon .  
 I have one of his Bradley customs in sport touring geometry with 18 
 chainstays in Reynolds 531ST, and man do Iove that ride.  I have a 
 Bombadil also, which would make a fine touring rig, but it's a bit stiff 
 for me for every day fun riding .  My Bradley is just  wonderful riding , 
 as it has more flex in all the right places that it floats over the uneven 
 chip and seal roads I ride alot on .  It's as completely stable at 5mph on 
 steep uphills as it is 50 mph down.  

 Jack does most of his business through local Ohio shops, but does sell to 
 individuals that don't live locally .  It would be best just to call him to 
 talk about it. He's real easy to chat with !   He's been doing this for 
 over 35 years, so he's done and seen about everything bike related :) 

 http://www.franklinframe.com/


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[RBW] Re: Losing Bike weight vs. Rider weight. Which one more effectively makes you go faster?

[IanA]

I support you in that ambition!  Needing to do the same.

On Monday, May 12, 2014 10:56:14 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

 The thought that being 25lbs. overweight is like carrying around another 
 bike on you is an eye opening statement.

 I don't think for a non-racer like me I would benefit from shaving bike 
 weight.
 I need to ride more and eat less.


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[RBW] Re: Losing Bike weight vs. Rider weight. Which one more effectively makes you go faster?

[IanA]

It's not just weight - it's a ratio of power to weight.  If a person is 
20lb over-weight, the knock-on of such a condition is often (not always) 
carrying the weight in the form of fat at the same time as lacking muscle 
and strength.  I hover between 155lb and 175lb, but I only hit 155lb after 
a tremendous amount of exercise and the times I've been at that weight in 
the last few years have correlated with my body in its strongest form. 
 I've no doubt that I'm significantly faster in that condition.  Nowadays I 
work a lot of six day weeks and am lacking muscle - as a result, and 
conversely perhaps, I'm sure I'm more sensitive to a difference in bike 
weight, as I'm having to work harder anyway.

I suppose it could be argued that a body-builder with a minuscule 
percentage of body-fat could be considered over-weight, but their strength 
to weight ratio would be very high.  So, there are just too many variables 
to draw a straight conclusion. 

Of course, a bike that one perceives as light and fast and enjoyable to 
ride helps to motivate a person to find the same efficiency in their own 
form.  In short, one wants to go for a ride! The weight of a bicycle is 
only one component in the overall efficiency of the machine (aerodynamics, 
rolling resistance etc.) and the weight of the rider is only one component 
in the overall efficiency of the human being (strength, height, endurance, 
comfort etc.).

IanA.



On Sunday, May 11, 2014 12:31:59 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

 Assuming the 1-manpower engine stays the same.

 From time to time I think of shaving weight off bikes and I wonder if it 
 really matters for a non-racer person like me who could stand to lose 25 
 lbs.
 I think if I lost the weight it would be much easier to turn the cranks 
 than if I shaved 4 lbs. off the bike.

 But I am not sure how these mechanical things work, so I was wondering.


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[RBW] Re: Question about Bleriot selling...drops or Albas more likely to sell?

[IanA]

I'd second this sentiment.  You've done such a nice job building-up that 
bicycle, someone will benefit from it being complete.  If you're in no 
panic to sell, just be patient.  The BB might not be the first choice of 
RBW listers, but the outboard type is a perfectly good system and it 
certainly wouldn't put me off.  If it ain't broke etc.

IanA.

On Thursday, May 8, 2014 4:49:40 PM UTC-6, Evan wrote:

 P.S. On second thought: it's spring. Good time to sell a beautiful bike. 
 Maybe give the whole bike a few more weeks on CL?





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[RBW] Re: Light Weight essential for next S24O, Randonee, or bike camping

[IanA]

No need - it's pre-boiled.

On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 5:36:15 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 What if I want to boil it? Do I have to chill is first?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 5:26:28 PM UTC-6, Tom Virgil wrote:


 http://www.bernardfoods.com/foodservice/beverages/images/dehydatedwater.gif

 You can get the details 
 here.http://www.bernardfoods.com/foodservice/beverages/dehydatedwater.htm

 http://www.bernardfoods.com/foodservice/beverages/images/dehydatedwater.gif



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Re: [RBW] Re: How would your choice of Rivish Bike carry forward to your choice of automobile?

[IanA]

It's got to be Citroen: - http://www.boldride.com/ride/1955/citroen-ds-19

On Monday, May 5, 2014 11:20:56 PM UTC-6, Christopher Chen wrote:

 Only one thing comes to mind 
 On May 5, 2014 9:43 PM, Peter Morgano uscpet...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Classic Simpsons. Danny devito as the long lost brother, awesome. 
 On May 6, 2014 12:36 AM, cyclotourist cyclot...@gmail.comjavascript: 
 wrote:

 Fun fact: I was looking up images for homer car when I came across the 
 third one! *http://tinyurl.com/n2zhorj http://tinyurl.com/n2zhorj*


 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 9:34 PM, Coconutbill evan@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 a. homer !

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[RBW] Re: Asymmetrical tire wear

[IanA]

I've used the same tire for loaded touring and have put upwards of 7000km 
on each Marathon Plus rear tire.  At 2000km the tire looked practically 
new.  But, it does seem like a defect in the tire as if it was a tracking 
issue the tire would be wearing badly all round and the bike would be hard 
to ride in a straight line.  I'd recommend making a movie of the tire 
slowly rotating all way around to show the unusual wear pattern and sending 
Schwalbe NA an email.  Hopefully, they'll replace the tire. If it happens 
again, the mystery will have remained unsolved.

IanA

On Saturday, May 3, 2014 9:59:43 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:

 2000 miles may be close to the life limit.  Maybe the rubber is separating 
 from the casing.  

 On Saturday, May 3, 2014 10:47:25 AM UTC-5, Curtis wrote:


 Patrick,

 Thanks for the reply and excellent question. The tire is not wearing the 
 same all the way round. About one third or a little more is very worn, to 
 the point I think I need a new tire.  The wear tapers to little ware for 
 the rest of the tire.

 Curtis

 On Saturday, May 3, 2014, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com wrote:

 Curtis, runners who only run roads will often get issues with hips and 
 legs due to the drainage slope of the road and they are always running with 
 their left leg on the uphill side. Same would be true of bikes. So that may 
 be a factor, but no idea how large. I doubt the front load weight more than 
 what you put on the rear, so increased weight on the rear combined with 
 road slope, possibly combined with a funky wheel in some way? It your rear 
 tire wearing the same all the way round? 

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Saturday, May 3, 2014 8:42:19 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

 Hi,

 Just wondering if the group has a thought on the perceived unusual tire 
 wear I am seeing on my rear tire. The tire is a 38mm Schwalbe marathon and 
 is on the back of my AHH. It has about 2000 miles on it.  The front looks 
 like the day it was installed.  Used as a daily commuter the bike has most 
 of the loads in the front basket. I check in at 210 pounds (at five foot 
 nineteen)

 Here is a picture:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/97010676@N07/14096286265/lightbox/

 Thanks.  Ride safe.

 Curtis

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Tire and Gearing Recommendations

[IanA]

Congratulations on the QB acquisition!  Looking forward to hearing all 
about it when it arrives.

IanA.

On Tuesday, April 29, 2014 2:31:19 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I’ve pulled the trigger on a beautiful silver Quickbeam, so Lord willing 
 and the creek don’t rise it should be here in a few weeks. I have a few 
 questions as I gear up for her arrival...

 Knobbie Tire:
 Talking with Riv., they suggest I can go with up to a 40mm knobbie and 
 still be able to swap rings in front. I’ll be on dirt roads and trails 
 mostly, with some unavoidable sections of pavement. What do you all 
 recommend? Both size and specific tire.

 Gearing:
 I plan on riding the stock gearing first, but what do you all recommend 
 here for essentially a single speed cyclocross setup? Obviously, I’ll have 
 to become a stronger rider, and have already started that on my rides by 
 not shifting down as much. I did well on today’s 10 mile ride in 36/21, and 
 my understanding is the low ring is 32, so possibly a Surly dingle cog, 
 17/21? I heard if you have even teeth up front you should have even teeth 
 in the back, is that true?

 Thanks! The bike therapy continues! 

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Geometry, climbing, what's going on?

[IanA]

Try leaving things as they are and give it three months of riding.  It 
takes a while to get used to new equipment, especially when it is quite 
different to what a person might be more accustomed to.   I bet you end up 
really enjoying that bike with those big tires and wheels.

IanA/Canada.

On Saturday, April 26, 2014 8:00:01 AM UTC-6, Anne Paulson wrote:

 Mike, sigh, you're saying what I suspected but didn't want to hear: it's 
 just harder to push those big wheels up a hill. I'm already thinking about 
 trying 2.3 tires, though it does seem silly to buy a bike that takes 3 
 wheels and then not use them.  In any case, I'm going to replace the heavy 
 tubes with lighter tubes and see what difference that makes. Half a pound 
 per wheel isn't nothing.

 Rather than sliding forward, which seems to put my body at the wrong 
 attitude toward the pedals, I've been trying leaning forward. I haven't yet 
 become comfortable standing on the steep climbs, but that's the next skill 
 I need to pick up.

 On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 10:50 PM, Mike Schiller 
 mikey...@rocketmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 One thing most people experience when going from 26 wheeled MTB's to 29 
 MTB is that they can't climb as well. I've learned that you need to use an 
 even lower gear to be able to turn the larger circumference wheels.  I have 
 yet to try a 29+ bike but I can guess it will need an even lower gear.  On 
 my 29er I run a 20-34 low combination. I'd probably go to a 20-36 on a 29+ 
 bike. Maybe you can try a smaller chainring up front for your Rohloff   
 equipped bike?
 Of course it takes more power to push the wider and heavier tire, 
 especially uphill on dirt.. I climb much faster on the same trails on my 
 cross bike with 35mm tires. Downhill is another story.

 One trick you may not know is to slide forward on your seat a bit on 
 steep sections. That will take some weight off your rear wheel and allow 
 you to climb easier.  The WTB saddles even have a little drop on the nose 
 for that purpose. 

 Another option is to try some 2.3 tires. They will be easier to climb 
 with then your 3 Knards.  You'll lose some downhill traction but maybe 
 gain a better overall ride. 

 Good Luck

 ~mike
 Carlsbad Ca.

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 -- Anne Paulson

 It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 


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[RBW] Re: Sugino GP bottom bracket size?

[IanA]

I have a GP triple (130 BCD though) that was on a Marinoni Turismo (c.2000) 
and it had a 122 spindle.  Might be good to try the 118 and eyeball the 
clearance to provide a reference point.

IanA/Canada.

On Thursday, April 24, 2014 8:24:41 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Anyone used an old Sugino GP 110/74 triple in their Rivendell or 
 Rivendell-like frame?  I have one sitting around in a box that I was 
 thinking about using, but wasn't sure what size bottom bracket to use.  I 
 already have a spare 118 JIS square BB on hand, and I suppose I could get a 
 113 and 110 and see what works, but it would probably be easier to know 
 what to use ahead of time :-)

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[IanA]

Have you tried it without the spacer?  I was running a 13-34 7 speed 
cassette on a 9 speed Ultegra hub and I seem to remember that it tightened 
up fine without a spacer.  

IanA/Canada

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 6:10:47 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:

 so i am all set up with the 7 speed cassette, but am having an issue I 
 can't figure out.

 I picked up the 13-34 7 speed cassette, a 4.5mm spacer, and a shimano hg91 
 7/8 speed chain.  put the spacer on behind the cassette, tightened the 
 cassette, adjusted rear derailer limit screws, and everything works peachy 
 EXCEPT i am getting chatter in the smallest cog.  Every other cog is fine.  

 thoughts on what this might be?  it's ruining new drivetrain day.  ahah.  


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[RBW] Re: Pedal Stroke Click

[IanA]

What BB is installed?  The Shimano ones often have a plastic non-drive side 
cup.  These do split and sometimes are just fine like that, but sometimes 
they will cause a click.  Like Patrick Moore said, it could also simply be 
that the cup has worked loose.  

On Sunday, April 20, 2014 7:06:52 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 My bike has a click/ping/ting sound that happens at the same place in the 
 pedal stroke (as my right foot nears the bottom of the stroke). It happens 
 in various gears and most of the time, but seems to randomly disappear. It 
 stops if I stop pedaling. Based on this, I believe I can eliminate chain 
 and cassette, and visually I’ve checked for derailure wire or other 
 obstical that gets dinged with each revolution of the cranks. So I’m 
 thinking cranks or bottom bracket. Ideas?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: WTB: Bottle Dyno and Headlamp

[IanA]

If sold on a dynamo system, one might consider waiting a bit longer and 
just starting with a hub dynamo set-up.  If not running a tail-light, the 
wiring is simple.  For example, a complete wheel with a Sanyo hub on eBay 
is available as low as $95 
shipped 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IDC-Stout-dynohub-hub-dynamo-700c-front-wheel-36h-silver-/281283528437?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item417dce06f5

I have no experience with that wheel, so don't know how it will hold up, 
but maybe someone on the list has been using one?

Paired with an Eyc headlamp from BM available from Peter White for $73 (an 
older BM Cyo is also a good price) would be a relatively low cost dynamo 
lighting system  I have an Eyc on my commuter and it is an excellent light, 
but there is flickering at low speeds.  On another bike I have a Phillips 
Saferide which doesn't seem to flicker once the capacitor is charged.  For 
technical stuff, I'm not convinced dynamo lights are the way to go. The 
beam is road focused and relatively narrow and overhead hazards like tree 
branches are not well lit.  But, for commuting, lights on demand is a 
fantastic convenience.

If only a couple of hours light at a time is needed and mostly for riding 
technical trails, a rechargeable battery set-up might be the way to go.  I 
also have a rechargeable battery light, a something or other MityCross 
which is brilliant (literally and metaphorically) until the battery dies. 
 The battery actually has a reserve so the light will work for another half 
an hour or so with the light on the lowest setting.  

But, I'm a strong proponent of dynamo lighting and there's nothing to say 
that a person can't have both.  Run the dynamo headlight all the time and 
just use the battery light to augment visibility for the steep descents or 
the twisty trails.

Not what you asked, so I hope some unsolicited opinion is okay.. my 2c 
anyway.

IanA. 

On Thursday, April 17, 2014 5:44:32 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I'm looking to test dyno lighting and have a system that works while I 
 save for a new front wheel. ideal candidate is a hearty front headlamp and 
 bottle dyno that provided quality illumination for unlighted country roads 
 and also hearty enough to handle single track (though not while in use). I 
 can pay next week around April 23-25. My fall back option is a battery 
 powered unit for $60.

 Thanks!

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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[RBW] Re: What's involved switching to road levers?

[IanA]

Nicely done, Patrick.  Out of interest, do you find any difference in 
leverage between the brake levers?  Excellent job and I'm intrigued to 
learn more about your fold-away workshop design if you were of the mind to 
share details.

Ian A.

On Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:53:12 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I did it! It was a lot of cognitive and fine motor skill therapy, but I 
 now have a place quiet enough I can push that envelope. Clearly it's time 
 to set it up as a fold away workshop. Grin. Took me 3 hours for the 
 complete bar swap (still have bar end pods to install once they arrive).

 First impressions of the Albastache (I did about 5 miles on them and 
 horsed around on some technical railroad ties): Wow! These are everything I 
 was trying to make the Albatross bars. I felt very much inside the bike and 
 everything just flowed. I had even fewer issues with the vertigo being in 
 the curves. Fast curvy trails? Awesome! Climbing in the saddle? Rock solid. 
 Standing to climb? Stable, no longer skitterish. Brakes where I want them! 
 Wow.

 Thank you for all your help! That was fun! And now my brain news a rest.

 A few photos for your amusement (three, and scroll left to see the other 
 two).
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/13768390645/https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2F32311885%40N07%2F13768390645%2Fsa=Dsntz=1usg=AFQjCNFZx8q1dGGniy-ji09uu8LkqeokEw

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Sunday, April 6, 2014 1:23:37 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am assessing if this is a job I can do or if I need to take it to my 
 LBS. I will be switching from mountain brake levers to road non-aero levers 
 for my albastache bars. I’m good for swapping everything else, but don’t 
 know what’s involved with the levers. Do I need to change cable? Can I just 
 pop the cable out one and into the other? Or do I have to cut and replace 
 bits?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet conundrum

[IanA]

My commuter is set up similarly to your Bizango.  It's an old Rocky 
Mountain, has 26 wheels and drop bars.  I also have a LongLow which is a 
similar bike to the Rambouillet.  The Rocky is quick handling, incredibly 
stable at any speed, has a high BB and can be pedaled through just about 
any turn, can be loaded with two weeks of groceries and still behave 
perfectly.  It is also heavier and solid and does not plane.

When getting on the LongLow, the first few minutes/couple of hours of the 
ride, I also pedal strike.  It also seems to wallow from the front end. 
 After I'm used to it again, it feels right and good and it is a bike that 
can be ridden long distances seeming to work with the rider, whereas the 
Rocky would be a poor choice as a brevet bike.  If I rode the LongLow every 
day and then jumped on the Rocky, I'd be looking behind to see what I was 
towing.  

As a shorter distance commuter (say up to 8 miles each way), those old 26 
wheel mountain bikes are tough to beat, especially if the road surface is 
not great.  They are a lot of fun to ride.  If my commute was 12 miles each 
way, the Rocky would spend more time at home though.

Ian A/Canada



On Friday, April 4, 2014 11:44:27 AM UTC-6, Jeff Ong wrote:

 So, I've got a lot of bikes and zero cars. Only two are conventional 
 road type bikes (a 2004 Merlin Fortius and an '84 Nobillette). Many are 
 mountain bikes, and my daily rider/commuter is a 1995 Voodoo Bizango that 
 I've added rack/fender eyelets to, converted to drops and 2 inch Schwalbe 
 Marathons, and basically made into a sort of Atlantis type ride.

 About a year ago, I bought a secondhand (or third- or fourth-hand, who 
 knows?) Rambouillet (from the first run of framesets, in pearl orange). My 
 idea was to have a sporty road/light tourer with fenders, since I live in 
 Portland, where it drizzles seven months of the year. I built this up with 
 a pretty Riv-like collection of stuff -- a VO triple crankset, platform 
 pedals, some nice wheels and Pasela 28s, Shimano 9-speed bar end shifters, 
 bars a bit above saddle height, etc. It's super pretty, everyone oohs and 
 ahs over it, etc.

 The problem is, I kind of hate riding it. It just steers like a pig, 
 wallowing through turns, and it feels super slow to accelerate. I get 
 terrible pedal strike unless I coast around every turn. I've really tried 
 to get used to the ride, but I always find myself getting angry when I'm 
 out on the bike... like hurry up, man! come on! I'm a decent enough 
 mechanic to know that there isn't anything mechanically wrong. I do think 
 this bike is bigger on me than I generally ride -- I'm 6' tall and this is 
 a 58cm, and generally I ride smaller than that, although it's difficult to 
 compare compact frames against this more traditional geometry. The bike 
 isn't super light (27 lbs or so with fenders and racks), but many of my 
 bikes are around that weight or heavier.

 Am I just not cut out for Riv-type geometry? Is it poorly fit to me? Is 
 there something about the Rambouillet that just makes it slow-steering and 
 ponderous? I would love to swap out this frameset with something livelier 
 and more fun to ride (but that can still take racks and fenders with 28mm 
 tires), and I'm just hoping to not make the same mistake. Any insights 
 would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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[RBW] Re: Ideal AHH Wheelset

[IanA]

The A719 is a high-end rim not heavy - just not light-weight.  The huge 
benefit of dynamo lighting makes the front wheel swap an excellent idea 
(assuming the bicycle would be ridden at night).  The only consideration 
for the rear wheel is if the Phil hub is compatible with your current 
gearing set-up.  No reason not to have the current LX on the rear and the 
dynamo wheel up front.  

Ian A.

On Thursday, April 3, 2014 1:18:35 PM UTC-6, Michael Fleischman wrote:

 Hello All,

 My name is Michael and I am new to the group and from Indianapolis. 

 I recently bought an A Homer Hilsen from Dick at the Country Bike Shop in 
 Ohio.  I am considering switching over my custom wheelset from my touring 
 ride to the AHH.  My custom wheelset is a Phil Wood Cassette hub laced to a 
 Mavic a719 rim and up front I have a Schmidt SON hub laced to a Mavic 
 a719.  The AHH came with a stock wheelset - Shimano LX hubs.  I think I 
 want to have dynamo lighting on the AHH and want to have my Phil Hub on 
 back, but want to run this change past the bunch.

 Will I be giving anything up (speed, handling, feel, ect) by switching out 
 the current wheel set?  Is the Mavic a719 too much of a touring rim for the 
 AHH?  The bike came with Jack Browns and I think I will switch those over 
 to my custom wheelset on the AHH if I do make the swap.

 Thoughts?


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[RBW] Re: Introduction and Sam Hillborne / AHH Sizing Advice

[IanA]

 Dyad rims are not particularly heavy - the weight difference between them 
and Synergy rims aren't far off that.   Tires have much more bearing on 
feel.

Well worth trying the longer stem though, or maybe just try the bars a cm 
or two lower.  Or both the longer stem and the bars a touch lower.  

Ian A.

On Tuesday, April 1, 2014 1:06:24 PM UTC-6, Avery Wilson wrote:



 Well, I wonder if my very small level of dissatisfaction (I am about 95% 
 happy!) could be cured by lighter wheel/tire setup, and maybe a longer 
 stem.. 

 I have a 12cm TechDeluxe that I could put on, but that entails unwrapping 
 and rewrapping half of my bars. :)

 So a little description of the current setup:

 56CM DTT Sam Hillborne
 10CM Tallux stem
 Albatross bars
 Wheels are LX Hubs with Velocity Dyad (heavy-ish touring rims) 
 Tires are Resist Nomad 700x45 (42 actual) Wire bead.
 Brooks B17 regular.
 Some sweet vintage Paul brake Levers
 Marks Rack with Wald Medium Basket
 Axiom Rear rack as bag platform (would rather have another Mark's Rack.. :)


 Everything else is a Riv-standard build.. silver shifters, Sugino triple, 
 tektro R559 etc.

 Could I get some of that lively responsiveness that I love in the Hilsen 
 with a lighter wheelset and some of those sweet new Compass 700x38 tires?
 Or is the ride of the AHH inherent in its frame?


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[RBW] Re: New Edeluxe Light Source - LENR

[IanA]

I might get one for my spaceship - just finished building it in my shed and 
I forgot about lighting.

On Tuesday, April 1, 2014 11:15:47 AM UTC-6, Corwin wrote:

 Although I don't have the funds at the moment - I'm tempted to try this as 
 an alternative to my dynamo wheel: 
 http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-1339/ZZ---/Detail

 Having read the Gary Taubes book on Cold Fusion, I'm somewhat skeptical 
 about the veracity of claims made about LENR. But I'm willing to suspend my 
 doubt and keep an open mind.

 Anybody on the list know much about Lattice Enabled Nuclear Reactions 
 (LENR) and the potential for application as a power source?

 This could make lights previously powered by dynamo hubs much more 
 portable. I assume this power source could potentially be connected to 
 other lights as well as the Edeluxe.

 Thanks,



 Corwin


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[RBW] Re: Old and New Hunqapillar Tire Clearences

[IanA]

It's not an ideal solution, but one could move the crankset outboard a 
fraction with a longer bottom bracket to achieve clearance for the 
chain/tire.  The solution is not ideal, as the chainline may be less 
optimum, but for the investment of a longer bottom bracket (give or take 
$30 for a Shimano unit) and a little tweaking of the front derailleur, it 
would be a worthwhile experiment to run the wider tire.  

Ian A.

On Sunday, March 30, 2014 12:34:44 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Updating my experience after riding the 2.25 Smart Sams on more technical 
 terrain.

 Positives:
 Front tire is fantastic! They handle the terrain beautifully. So much more 
 confidence on the loose stuff than I had with the Dureme's (as expected). 
 Mud and sod areas no problem (not suck you in and keep you till you die 
 mud). They ride wonderfully.

 Negative:
 Chain and front derailleur rub for the rear tire. Clearances are fine 
 everywhere else. I bent the front derailure away from the tire and that 
 worked fine, but the chain line in low gear is far enough over that it has 
 a propencity to rub and that startles me (and is bad from my bludgeoned 
 brain).

 Solution:
 I'm now running the 2.1 as my rear tire. We'll see how that fairs.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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[RBW] Re: R400 road Brake lever gray plastic ring cracked. Ok to ride?

[IanA]

What Phillip said - purely cosmetic.  I have a set of the Ultegra/600 
levers and one of those is missing the plastic bit, after a fall.  Been 
like that for years now.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 9:00:34 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

 Thanks for the info. Here is a pic. seems to be working fine.

 I'd hate to have to undo the whole cockpit and go through realighning the 
 levers again. Hopefully it will wtill work fine from now on. 


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[RBW] Re: Riv Light Mount Hardware Question?

[IanA]

Jenson carry the Tektro one. 
 http://www.jensonusa.com/Tektro-Serrated-Brake-Washer

On Saturday, March 15, 2014 7:40:41 AM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 They also come with center and side pull brakes. They go against the fork 
 crown / brake bridge. You may be able to get them from the service guys at 
 your LBS.

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[RBW] Re: New 53 Bleriot frameset!

[IanA]

Joe gives good advice here.  Personally, I feel confident in my 
bike-building ability, but I've built a few and have access to shop tools. 
 Working at home with only a few tools and for the first time is definitely 
not the best approach on a pristine frame.

Ian A/Canada.

On Thursday, March 13, 2014 9:09:55 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I'm afraid I'm going to argue contrary advice here. I wouldn't choose a 
 new, unmarked frame as my first build. My preference would be to learn 
 build skills on a cheaper pre-scratched Craigslist bike, then attack a new 
 one once I'd been through all the novice mistakes.

 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.

 On Thursday, March 13, 2014 7:35:40 PM UTC-7, Mattt wrote:

 Michael,

 Built it yourself.  The only part to farm out is the headset.  You will 
 learn much in the process and very gratifying.  I used Parks Blue Book and 
 was able to do it with this instruction.

 Matt




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[RBW] Re: Exploding Schwalbe?

[IanA]

I had this issue with a tire a few years ago and I really thought the tire 
was incorrectly made.  It blew off the rim in the stand and then I after I 
had it mounted, it happened again some time later while out riding.  It 
turned out, as the tire fit quite tightly to the rim, that I was pinching 
the inner tube.   This is symptomatic of blowing immediately, but if a very 
small part of the tube is pinched, it can actually ride like that for quite 
a while before blowing.  Now, I always make the tube slightly tubular with 
air before installing in the tire, once the tire is fully mounted, I leave 
the pressure very low and work the bead-seat around the rim both sides and 
make sure there is no pinch.  

Ian A/Canada.

On Sunday, March 9, 2014 11:19:06 AM UTC-6, Nick Worthington wrote:

 Querying the collective knowledge here.  We're having a recurring problem 
 with the rear tire on my wife's Betty blowing out at around 60 PSI and 
 above.  Schwalbe Little Big Ben, which is rated for 50-85 PSI.  Yesterday, 
 it blew two blocks from home, after being topped up with air, ithad been 
 ridden with no problem for several months since the last blowout.  Thought 
 it might be rim tape, so we actually swapped the whole wheel, since we had 
 a spare.  Still happens.  Once, it blew just after inflation, in our hands, 
 when we were replacing the tube from a prior blow out.  I'm thinking it 
 must be the tire itself, but I don't see anything obvious - Maybe a 
 slightly rough patch near the bead, but it doesn't seem to have any obvious 
 pointy bits

 Thoughts?

 Nick W.

  


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[RBW] Re: What does IRD and IGH mean?

[IanA]

Brilliant!

On Saturday, March 1, 2014 1:54:40 PM UTC-7, sameness wrote:

 For peace in the household, BIKE is the solution to N+1: Buy It, Keep 
 Elsewhere.




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[RBW] Re: What does IRD and IGH mean?

[IanA]

I built a few wheels and spent too much time comparing rim ERDs, especially 
when trying to reuse spokes.  BSD is good to know if you play with old 
British Raleighs from time to time.  BIKE - I was hoping someone would play.

On Saturday, March 1, 2014 12:11:33 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 BIKE is just shouting. Right? 

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Friday, February 28, 2014 10:07:39 PM UTC-8, IanA wrote:

 ERD comes up a lot for wheel builders.  BSD for tires.  

 BIKE is another one I've seen - not sure what that one stands for?

 On Friday, February 28, 2014 11:04:57 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 IRD is a brand name, short for Interloc Racing Design, I think. IGH is 
 an acronym for internally geared hub, like a Sturmey Archer (SA) 3 speed 
 hub.
 Are there other cryptic acronyms we use as shorthand around here?

 Philip 
 www.biketinker.com



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[RBW] Re: What does IRD and IGH mean?

[IanA]

ERD comes up a lot for wheel builders.  BSD for tires.  

BIKE is another one I've seen - not sure what that one stands for?

On Friday, February 28, 2014 11:04:57 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 IRD is a brand name, short for Interloc Racing Design, I think. IGH is an 
 acronym for internally geared hub, like a Sturmey Archer (SA) 3 speed hub.
 Are there other cryptic acronyms we use as shorthand around here?

 Philip 
 www.biketinker.com


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[RBW] Re: Sanity check: moving posts to 650b-ice SimpleOne

[IanA]

Wonder if the Soma C Line tires might be enough to change the feel?  700 x 
38 mm.  Wouldn't ride as high as the Nomads and might give a ride quality 
approaching that of Hetres.

On Thursday, February 20, 2014 5:43:53 PM UTC-7, justin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey folks-
 I love Hetres. I just do. I also love my SimpleOne. I really don't want to 
 ditch it. But to get the Cush I want involves HUGE tires that give my 
 SimpleOne weird wobbles. (S-word?) what's the sanity check on moving those 
 posts? I'm local to Bilenky so I can have the best do both brazing and 
 painting. Is this nuts? Will it destroy the ride of the S1? My other 
 conversion went fantastically and  love my Saluki. Am I just suffering 
 cabin fever?


 -J


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[RBW] Re: FS: numerous used complete bikes and frames

[IanA]

Lose the pelt, keep the frame - reward based motivation?

On Friday, February 14, 2014 3:56:23 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 Agreed about the Rawland. I was tempted to keep that frame for myself, but 
 I'm sporting a thicker-than-usual winter pelt this year, and I'm not sure I 
 should be riding a frame with flexy undersized tubing, haha.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

[IanA]

Wonderful update Patrick - thanks for the great photos and inspiration to 
enjoy wonderful nature.  It's great to see your Hilleberg tent in situ - it 
looks right out there.  Do you meet anyone on your adventures to the 
wilderness, or is it completely solitary out there?  The odd coyote here 
and there, or too remote for them?

Ian A

On Thursday, February 13, 2014 10:33:32 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Update (please see last 2 paragraphs for Rivish content):

 The fatpulk did fantastic! Handled my 50 pounds of gear, including food 
 and water, for my three-nighter on the western slope of Pikes Peak.

 The pulk in action:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/12513038905/http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2F32311885%40N07%2F12513038905%2Fsa=Dsntz=1usg=AFQjCNG9WqkTETuVFmxq_XMy8pV_SqHQYw

 Set from the trip:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157640950274605/

 So, after an extension day tomorrow (I'll do a day trip) on the 
 construction my study hobbit hole, I will have an increased soundproof 
 space and hopefully that will help against some of the noise that has 
 ramped up around here the last few years.

 Definitely a new slow speed record for LCG. Snowshoeing through knee-deep 
 powder ain't fast. Grin. So, while there is no direct Riv. Content, there 
 is the spirit of Rivendell in the unracer approach.

 Clothing: Boiled wool and ventile are amazing. the first morning was 
 -30˚F, and I headed off pre-dawn with wool not-so-tights, knickers, boiled 
 wool sweater (http://www.sweatersintl.com is excellent, if you are in the 
 market for mittens, hat, or sweater), boiled  wool mittens and hat, and my 
 ventile shell. Toasty warm when moving, and fine for brief stops. That same 
 system, stripped down to just the not-so-tights with the sweater and shell 
 tied to my waist was good at 30˚F, and may up to 40, but I didn't get that 
 warm on this trip. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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Re: [RBW] Re: Multiple grand randonnees on a Rivendell.

[IanA]

@ Iron Rider - good point :) I actually thought I was replying to Larry 
Powers' message.  I was mostly just interested in what RBW randonneuring 
people like to run as pedals/shoes and tires, but probably better asked 
either on a different thread or on the Randon List.  We're going through a 
cold snap here in the north, with temperatures hovering around -30 degrees 
celcius, so any brevets are a long way off.

Ian A.

On Monday, February 10, 2014 8:00:13 AM UTC-7, Iron Rider wrote:

 Ian A.

 You post a lot of questions here but I'm not sure to whom they are 
 directed? Me? The Olsen bros? The list? Perhaps a new thread might be a 
 better option to get the most helpful responses? 

 On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:35:32 AM UTC-5, IanA wrote:

 Would be interested to know what width tires/wheel size and pedals you 
 prefer?  I have a canti LongLow made brevet ready and on 32mm actual 
 Kojaks. I could go to an actual 37mm with fenders, I think, with some 
 creativity.  I have flat pedals on the bike and SPDs/mountain bike shoes in 
 my box of stuff.  I like the idea of trail shoes and flat pedals, but for 
 longer rides I'm wondering how those would work out. I've done one 400km 
 and several 200km rides, but none on the Rivendell yet and all my longer 
 rides were clipped in.  It's been a long while, so getting back to shape is 
 going to be tough.

 Ian A/Canada.

 On Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:36:54 PM UTC-7, Larry Powers wrote:

 The simple answer is that if it was 96 hours anyone could do it.

 I think there is a a minimum speed you are expected to ride plus a 
 minimum number hours of sleep you are allotted and this adds up to 90 
 hours.  

 I have completed two 1200k Randonnees on my Rambouillet, BMB 2006 and 
 PBP 2007.  It takes a huge commitment to train and qualify for a 1200k and 
 life has caught up with me for the last few years.  This year I am in the 
 hunt to do a 1000k and shoot for PBP next year and I will still be riding 
 my Rambouillet.  

 Larry Powers 
  
 Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain


 --
 Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 05:26:36 -0800
 From: lamon...@mac.com
 To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Multiple grand randonnees on a Rivendell.

 Out of curiosity, why 90 hours rather than an even 4 days?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Saturday, February 8, 2014 6:08:36 AM UTC-7, Iron Rider wrote:

 A 1200k brevet is a 750 mile ride that has to be completed in less than 
 90 hours. Bill and Mark Olsen regularly ride these epic events. Mark rides 
 an A. Homer Hilsen. They recently completed an interview describing their 
 approach. You can read it here:

 http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/02/riding-grand-randonees-olsen-brothers.html



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Re: [RBW] Re: Multiple grand randonnees on a Rivendell.

[IanA]

Would be interested to know what width tires/wheel size and pedals you 
prefer?  I have a canti LongLow made brevet ready and on 32mm actual 
Kojaks. I could go to an actual 37mm with fenders, I think, with some 
creativity.  I have flat pedals on the bike and SPDs/mountain bike shoes in 
my box of stuff.  I like the idea of trail shoes and flat pedals, but for 
longer rides I'm wondering how those would work out. I've done one 400km 
and several 200km rides, but none on the Rivendell yet and all my longer 
rides were clipped in.  It's been a long while, so getting back to shape is 
going to be tough.

Ian A/Canada.

On Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:36:54 PM UTC-7, Larry Powers wrote:

 The simple answer is that if it was 96 hours anyone could do it.

 I think there is a a minimum speed you are expected to ride plus a minimum 
 number hours of sleep you are allotted and this adds up to 90 hours.  

 I have completed two 1200k Randonnees on my Rambouillet, BMB 2006 and PBP 
 2007.  It takes a huge commitment to train and qualify for a 1200k and life 
 has caught up with me for the last few years.  This year I am in the hunt 
 to do a 1000k and shoot for PBP next year and I will still be riding my 
 Rambouillet.  

 Larry Powers 
  
 Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain


 --
 Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 05:26:36 -0800
 From: lamon...@mac.com javascript:
 To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Multiple grand randonnees on a Rivendell.

 Out of curiosity, why 90 hours rather than an even 4 days?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Saturday, February 8, 2014 6:08:36 AM UTC-7, Iron Rider wrote:

 A 1200k brevet is a 750 mile ride that has to be completed in less than 90 
 hours. Bill and Mark Olsen regularly ride these epic events. Mark rides an 
 A. Homer Hilsen. They recently completed an interview describing their 
 approach. You can read it here:

 http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/02/riding-grand-randonees-olsen-brothers.html



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[RBW] Re: Science is working against me

[IanA]

Being attractive is over-rated.  I know from experience.

Ian A/Canada.
(If only it were true!).

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 12:31:49 PM UTC-7, Tom Virgil wrote:

 At several levels http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-26034659, 
 being an 80% of the time Just Ride kind of person.  Guess I will just 
 continue to wear sunglasses and be excluded from considerations.

 (I am not taking this seriously.  It just made me laugh at myself).

 Tom


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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[IanA]

The UBI calculator is good to 
use http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator. It requires 
one to enter the data from the manufacturer's specs or by measuring 
oneself.  http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/synergy-oc-584 shows ERD 
as 565 both the regular and OC versions.  For the Phil hubs, you might need 
to measure or perhaps you have the relevant info. on hand.

It might be a good idea to double check in case ProWheel Builder have some 
incorrect data (not saying they have - looks like a great resource, but 
measure twice etc.).

Ian A/Canada

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 1:57:45 PM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:

 Thanks for the advice, gang.  You've convinced me to get an off-center 
 asymmetrical rim for the rear. 
 I'm still going to use my Phil FW hub because I have it; I don't have a 
 spare high-end cassette hub lying around.  
 I'm going with DT Swiss Champion 2.0/1.8/2.0 butted spokes, 36 per wheel.

 Spoke length:  This 
 calculatorhttp://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator/returned a 
 value of 272.2 non-drive side, 271.8 drive side (rear wheel). 
  272mm spokes should be good for both sides, right?

 The calculator returned a value of 272.6 for the front wheel.  Can I use 
 the same 272mm spokes?  Or do I need to go longer, to the 274mm?

 Thanks,
 Tim


 On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 7:45 AM, Leslie leslie...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 AASHTA:
 From http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html :

 *Double-butted spokes do more than save weight. The thick ends make them 
 as strong in the highly-stressed areas as straight-gauge spokes of the same 
 thickness, but the thinner middle sections make the spokes effectively more 
 elastic, allowing them to stretch (temporarily) more than thicker spokes.*

 *As a result, when the wheel is subjected to sharp localized stresses, 
 the most heavily-stressed spokes can elongate enough to shift some of the 
 stress to adjoining spokes. This is particularly desirable when the 
 limiting factor is how much stress the rim can withstand without cracking 
 around the spoke holes.*

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[IanA]

Most spokes come in even sizes, but generally if the exact length isn't 
available 1mm shorter give or take is the way to go.  

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:38:43 PM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:

 Mike-  That calculator returns the same spoke lengths -- using the 
 dimensions given by the database from my first calculator.  The second 
 calculator (leonard.io) has a big clunky database that makes it really 
 hard to find the correct model hub.  

 Obviously, I'll measure my hubs exactly and use those numbers before I buy 
 spokes.

 How much wiggle room is there in spoke length?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if 
 it calls for 271mm?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if it calls for 273mm?

 Thanks,
 Tim


 On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 3:17 PM, mikel...@juno.com javascript: 
 mikel...@juno.com javascript: wrote:

 try this calculator and see if you get similiar values. typically the 
 rear spokes are about 2mm apart and the front spokes are 1mm longer than 
 the nondrive side rear spokes

 http://leonard.io/edd/
 
 Do THIS before eating carbs #40;every time#41;
 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar  decrease fat 
 storage
 http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2aa91a66712a912abfst01duc

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[RBW] Re: Cotton and Wool Winter Army Gear

[IanA]

Where can one buy these items?  The wool zipper sweater sounds great.  If 
you're inclined to post photos...would be most interested.

Ian A/Canada

On Sunday, February 2, 2014 8:50:25 AM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 I got a little creative this year with my winter gear, 
 trading synthetic (lycra, fleece and Gore Tex) for some traditional wool 
 and cotton Army gear, and boy am I glad I did.  We've had some fabulous 
 winter conditions for snowshoeing and mountain biking here in NJ and I got 
 to put my new gear to the test.  For the past week the snow has been too 
 deep and powdery (a rarity for NJ), which is great for showshoeing, and 
 thanks to steady foot traffic the trails have become semi-packed, adequate 
 for 2.3 in knobbies to climb and descend even the steep trails...

 I've recently acquired 2 pieces of Swedish Army surplus gear; a 100% wool 
 zipper sweater with extra long sleeves (with thumb holes), and a heavy 
 cotton snow smock, both awesome and inexpensive.  For warmth on yesterday's 
 ride I wore 2 layers of wool (a thin Merino base layer and the Swedish 
 sweater). For my outer shell I wore the snow smock.  Typically I had been 
 used to shedding layers at the top of a major climb (from 
 over-heating)... With this wool-cotton setup the heat buildup was more 
 gradual, and seemed to dissipate MUCH faster (due to the high breathability 
 of the fabric).  I posted a few weeks ago that I had also picked up a 
 wool Boreal shirt (made from wool army blankets), which is 
 SO ridiculously warm I left that at home.  But for super cold days the wool 
 Boreal and the cotton snow smock make an outstanding combo for active wear 
 where you expect to be perspiring.

 And although it's not Army surplus, I added a Ventile cotton jacket (which 
 WAS developed by the British military) as my everyday winter jacket that I 
 wear to the office.. it just FEELS amazing.

 I do get some odd looks and smiles from people, *(especially my brother, 
 who refers to me as Luke Skywalker)* when I'm wearing the snow smock, I 
 REALLY love this gear, and am now on the lookout for other similar gear 
 from military establishments around the world... *(hey, this stuff is 
 field-tested, right?)*   Anyone else a fan of *(peacetime use)* of 
 army gear?? 

 Peace,
 BB 


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[RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

[IanA]

-30F is too cold - I've done my work commute of forty minutes in slightly 
higher temperatures -20F (-29celcius) with windchill calculated as part of 
that value and certainly once, I found my body was struggling to warm 
itself again after I got inside.  I got caught at an intersection and the 
wind got me.  The trouble is that in order to ride in those temperatures 
and even over hard packed snow, the amount of energy used is immense, the 
body sweats a great deal.  And this for very short trips only.  I can't 
imagine you'd ever want to leave the sleeping bag and that brings massive 
frustration.  I believe for that sort of winter camping, you'd be better 
leaving the bicycle at home.

14 degrees F/-10 celcius is even too cold for extended exposure, although 
for the 40 min commute, that temperature was surprisingly enjoyable.  I 
have spent time in sub zero C (sub 30F) for extended periods while bicycle 
travelling, with the nights being quite a bit colder, sleeping in the tent 
etc.  A lot of this time was in the high Andes and through Patagonia. 
 Sometimes I had to walk the bike to get circulation back into the feet. 
 No snow to deal with (not to speak of anyway) and this was, although at 
times a challenge and a couple of dangerously cold nights, was a fine and 
peaceful experience, one I feel lucky to have had.  There were times over 
4000 metres that if the weather had changed - rain for example, where I'd 
have been in serious trouble.  

The Iditabikers, although incredible human beings, do have some level of 
support.  It's different when you're alone out there. Can you find 
something at lower elevation?  Sunsets, sea and bicycles, tents and camp 
stoves - best things ever.

Ian A/Canada

On Monday, January 27, 2014 3:42:17 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 So rather than flee as a whole family to the southern reaches of Arizona 
 and all the unknown of that that could wreak havoc on my bludgeoned brain, 
 I will be solo bikepacking the areas around here (Pikes Peak) that I know 
 so well. But construction now has a start date of February 17 and an 
 unknown completion date (I’m guessing 3-8 weeks).

 Temps at the various elevations I’ll be at can range from 45˚F-minus 30˚F. 
 I’m familiar with how to camp at those temperatures, but anyone have 
 experience with caring for a bike at those temps/in snow? What do I need to 
 consider? 

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

[IanA]

In that case it sounds like a truly excellent endeavor - especially the 
fact that you'll only be trekking in and out by bike and if push comes to 
shove, you can walk out with minimum kit and come back for the the bike and 
other gear when conditions allow.

It certainly seems that you have good clothes etc. to make things 
comfortable.  Are you able to commute in and out?  Come home at nights if 
construction is daytime only?  Would things be safe left unattended?  It 
certainly seems that you will have peace there and I'd be most interested 
in learning of your experiences.

Ian.

On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 4:13:45 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Remember, Ian, I'm going prepared for -30 should it happen, but -10 to -20 
 is more likely even in a cold snap unless it's a really strong one. 
 Basically, I want cushion in what my gear can handle. The Hunqapillar is 
 the pack animal to get my stuff in (since I can't carry weight above my 
 waist). Once I'm in, unless conditions are favorable for biking, I'll be 
 running or snowshoeing till Friday noon, then head back out. In is 3-5 
 miles, so while there is no cell service, I do have the big red button 
 emergency personal beacon should the worst happen. I have Feathered Friends 
 expedition down jacket and pants and Seger Arctic mukluks all rated to 
 -30˚F, and I'll be doing a shakedown S24O in the next week or so (hoping 
 for a cold spell like we just had to test the extremes, but doesn't look 
 likely at the moment, with lows possibly only reaching zero).

 On my run today, the temp was -10˚F with winds at the gusting to 30. No 
 idea what the windchill is there, but with my ventile jacket, even though I 
 sweated wearing only two thin layers of wool and my ventile shell, it 
 breathes so well and blocks the wind so well that it was not an issue 
 whatsoever on a 10 mile run after a 3 mile bike. Click right to see other 
 photos in the series. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/12193608356/in/photostream/

 With abandon,
 Patrick  

 On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 3:48:24 PM UTC-7, IanA wrote:

 -30F is too cold - I've done my work commute of forty minutes in slightly 
 higher temperatures -20F (-29celcius) with windchill calculated as part of 
 that value and certainly once, I found my body was struggling to warm 
 itself again after I got inside.  I got caught at an intersection and the 
 wind got me.  The trouble is that in order to ride in those temperatures 
 and even over hard packed snow, the amount of energy used is immense, the 
 body sweats a great deal.  And this for very short trips only.  I can't 
 imagine you'd ever want to leave the sleeping bag and that brings massive 
 frustration.  I believe for that sort of winter camping, you'd be better 
 leaving the bicycle at home.

 14 degrees F/-10 celcius is even too cold for extended exposure, although 
 for the 40 min commute, that temperature was surprisingly enjoyable.  I 
 have spent time in sub zero C (sub 30F) for extended periods while bicycle 
 travelling, with the nights being quite a bit colder, sleeping in the tent 
 etc.  A lot of this time was in the high Andes and through Patagonia. 
  Sometimes I had to walk the bike to get circulation back into the feet. 
  No snow to deal with (not to speak of anyway) and this was, although at 
 times a challenge and a couple of dangerously cold nights, was a fine and 
 peaceful experience, one I feel lucky to have had.  There were times over 
 4000 metres that if the weather had changed - rain for example, where I'd 
 have been in serious trouble.  

 The Iditabikers, although incredible human beings, do have some level of 
 support.  It's different when you're alone out there. Can you find 
 something at lower elevation?  Sunsets, sea and bicycles, tents and camp 
 stoves - best things ever.

 Ian A/Canada

 On Monday, January 27, 2014 3:42:17 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 So rather than flee as a whole family to the southern reaches of Arizona 
 and all the unknown of that that could wreak havoc on my bludgeoned brain, 
 I will be solo bikepacking the areas around here (Pikes Peak) that I know 
 so well. But construction now has a start date of February 17 and an 
 unknown completion date (I’m guessing 3-8 weeks).

 Temps at the various elevations I’ll be at can range from 45˚F-minus 
 30˚F. I’m familiar with how to camp at those temperatures, but anyone have 
 experience with caring for a bike at those temps/in snow? What do I need to 
 consider? 

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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Re: [RBW] My Bike Life Is Lacking

[IanA]

Cultivate contentment. A funny thing happens when I shift from being 
frustrated with a situation to being content with the wonders and gifts I 
have in that situation.

There is abundance all around you, the challenge is to unwrap it even 
though it looks different that what you would love it to be.

Thank you for these words, Patrick.  Wonderful.

Ian A/Canada.

On Sunday, January 26, 2014 8:21:01 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Great job asking hard questions! The school rides sound like a great start.

 Cultivate contentment. A funny thing happens when I shift from being 
 frustrated with a situation to being content with the wonders and gifts I 
 have in that situation. I start to see options, ways and means, that had 
 not occurred to me before.

 Are there parks in the area? Coffee shops? Bike rack and hit a remote dirt 
 road and explore? Take a wandering ride and explore down the hill a bit. 
 not all the way, but enough to wander. You might be surprised what you 
 discover from a bike that you miss from a car. Read Yehuda Moon and 
 Kickstand Cyclery: http://yehudamoon.com (he has a series on biking to 
 school you'll find all too true and hilarious).

 There is abundance all around you, the challenge is to unwrap it even 
 though it looks different that what you would love it to be. Let us know 
 how you get on! Oh, and anything using your Rivendell is not abuse, it's 
 use, so no qualms from me on piling them all in a jumble in the back of 
 your van.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Saturday, January 25, 2014 10:18:32 PM UTC-7, LeahFoy wrote:

 Bicycle bus - your comment was the second time I've heard it mentioned! 
 The principal has been trying to get parents to create bicycle buses and 
 walk to school - to no avail. We brave the streets when we can and take the 
 sidewalk (legal here) when we can't - which is frequently because everyone 
 drives and the sidewalks are free and clear! I'd love to join up with a 
 bicycle bus. Would be difficult to organize here, but maybe!

 The trip into town and back would take most of a day on bike. It is 
 smooth sailing downhill, but holy smokes, getting home would be awful. Even 
 if I could manage it, it would be a lot of suffering. Definitely a no-go 
 with kiddos. I would like to get a bike rack for the van and maybe find 
 other venues to cycle in on weekends as a family. We actually did go to 
 Hoover Dam today with the bikes shoved in the back of the van and it was 
 good. But I didn't even dare take a pic for this group - it was too 
 shameful the way that classy Betty was being transported. Hubby's classless 
 Target Special with the crooked handlebars and wobbly rear wheel was 
 rubbing against her something awful. I'd have been banned from the list for 
 Rivendell abuse for sure.  



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Re: [RBW] ebay Atlantis 61 cm

[IanA]

The original Atlantis was a Bridgestone bike.  When RBW released the 
Atlantis, it was named Atlantis 2.  It was the first and only Rivendell 
Atlantis and was always called the Atlantis 2.  Since its release 
 towards the end of 1999, it's had a few changes (mid fork braze ons, 
kickstand plate and maybe others), but it's always been the one and only 
marque.  

I could be wrong on all counts.

Ian A/Canada.

On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 12:14:50 AM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 It remind me of Vegetable Korma color. Nice.

 Did the original Atlantii have a 1 on the seat tube?


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[RBW] Re: Taller 26 Riders

[IanA]

Well that is a beautiful bicycle.  I have a 98 LongLow, also Double Joe and 
one can also look at the finish for hours.  I would love an All Rounder to 
go with it though.  Don;t sell that bike!  You'll never find another like 
it.

On Saturday, January 4, 2014 12:13:50 PM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:



 On Friday, January 3, 2014 11:02:51 PM UTC-7, IanA wrote:


 I love seeing these All Rounders pop-up on the list.  

 Keith:  details please!  Who was it built by/painted by, what year etc?

 Ian A/Canada


  
 Ian,

 Thanks for the interest.  I've been meaning to put together a flickr set 
 or a submission to Cyclofiend to share some photos, but haven't gotten 
 around to it.  I bought the bike about 14 months ago and was alerted to 
 it's sale by list member Joe B., in Portland.  The original owner was 
 selling it on consignment at a local bike shop. It had a really odd mix of 
 parts on it which probably concealed it's potential and beauty to most who 
 looked at it, so it hadn't sold for a long time.  (Some here might remember 
 it.  One of those before photos, from the listing, is attached)  But MAN 
 is it beautiful!

 It's a '99, built by Joe Starck and painted by Joe Bell, with the optional 
 fancy window-fill paint option.  It also had an optional extra-long top 
 tube, which means that it fits like it was made for me and my odd long 
 torso / short legs proportions!!  It's listed as Coleman Green paint 
 which, whether it was intentional or not, it is an almost exact match to 
 the green on the first run of Quickbeams.   (But, being a Joe Bell job, 
 it's much more lustrous).  It came with the original purchase 
 order, including all this information and a note from Grant.  The most 
 beautiful / unique detail on the bike is the bottom bracket area, which was 
 all gorgeously fillet brazed instead of lugged.   Sounds funny, but I can 
 stare at it for hours

 Along with the serendipity of the long top tube, I somehow stumbled into 
 the perfect moustache bar setup, as I've posted about before.  (I had the 
 bars on my too-small XO-1 that this bike replaced and, though I really 
 wanted to, could never make peace with them until now.)  Unlike that first 
 attempt and counter to what most people recommend, I went with a LONG stem 
 (on top of the longer top tube) and raised them only to saddle height.  I 
 hear angels singing whenever I grab them.  :-)


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[RBW] Re: Taller 26 Riders

[IanA]

I love seeing these All Rounders pop-up on the list.  

Keith:  details please!  Who was it built by/painted by, what year etc?

Ian A/Canada


On Friday, January 3, 2014 7:47:09 PM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:

 Yes!  I'm about 6'-2.  Here's a picture of my newish-to-me 60cm, 
 26 All Rounder, on  a week-long supported tour this July.   I didn't 
 expect for this to happen, but it's ended up being the only bike I ever 
 want to ride!   Moustache bars and all, I feel like it does most things 
 every bit as well as the couple of  700c bikes that I have (long rides, 
 fast rides), but it does some other things way, way better  (ability 
 to accelerate quicker makes climbing more fun, fatter tires makes rough 
 roads more fun, lower center of rotating mass makes fast descents less 
 scary.  And I haven't even tried it loaded yet...)   Since I got this, my 
 60cm, noodle-bar Rambouillet has pretty much been collecting dust.  
 Ironically, the thing that always strikes me when I DO ride the 
 Rambouillet, with it's 28mm Ruffy Tuffy tires, is how much more  plush  
 (and therefore less sporty) it feels compared to the All-Rounder, with 
 it's 45mm Compass tires.  It's just unbelievable how comfortable THAT thing 
 is... but you'd sort of expect the opposite to be true.   

 And, as I've posted somewhat recently, I too would really like to find a 
 Saluki in my size to round things out.   I think that it would either be 
 the perfect medium, or just  a fun way to experiment with the merits of 
 each wheel size.


 On Friday, January 3, 2014 12:22:21 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 Between the 650B discussion, the 1 bike thread and my recent toying with 
 a 26 XO-3 I was wondering if there are any taller ~6'/90pbh-ish folks out 
 there predominantly riding 26 wheels these days...  If it wasn't clear 
 already the fact that my 3 current bikes represent each of the 
 26-650B-700C wheel sizes has me bouncing all over on the topic!  Good news 
 is that now that all three are in good rideable shape I can sample them all 
 ad nasuem and come to my own conclusions too!

 Tony



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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

[IanA]

Part of me feels like it's punishment for buying such an expensive bike in 
the first place

Owning/riding/buying a bicycle is one of the kindest things a human-being 
can do.  For themself, for society and for so many good reasons.  There is 
no punishment for having such an expensive bicycle.  Think about the 
people who benefited through your wise purchase, think about the years of 
service the bicycle can offer due to its high-quality and you'll see that 
it was not expensive at all.

All the very best for a fast recovery.  

Ian

Ian A/Canada

On Tuesday, December 17, 2013 6:46:45 PM UTC-7, Cecily Walker wrote:

 My osteoarthritis has become so bad in the last few weeks that it's nearly 
 impossible to ride my Betty Foy. Even after a professional bike fitting, I 
 simply don't have enough flexibility in the knee to make pedaling possible. 
 Part of me feels like it's punishment for buying such an expensive bike in 
 the first place, but the thing that hurts the most is I'll have to take 
 *public transit* to work until things improve/until surgery, whichever 
 comes first. 

 But at least I'll finally have time to put the Nitto front rack on the 
 bike. 

 *heavy sigh*
 Cecily


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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for gloves below 35 degrees F?

[IanA]

Gets pretty cold up here, with wind chill just in the last week it was -28 
Celsius (minus 18F) on my six mile snow laden commute to work,  I have some 
mitts very similar to these 
http://outdoorjay.blogspot.ca/2013/02/mec-logan-mitts-review.html with 
removable fleece inners and the leather outers.  I sometimes have to bunch 
my thumb and fingers together inside the mitts until I get a bit warmed up, 
but these mitts have been amazing for warmth. I would think any high 
quality ski mitts would work well.  I have the inline/interrupter levers 
and 46cm Noodle bars and find that it's easy to brake with the 
interrupters/mitts combo, but the drop levers are more of a challenge with 
mitts on.  

The low pressure system that brought us an early winter has thankfully 
passed through and we're back into 0 degree (32F) weather give or take for 
a few days.  The studded tires won't e off until April, probably.  A long 
winter ahead.

Ian A
Edmonton AB Canada

On Saturday, November 23, 2013 12:58:41 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 Looking for gloves and thought I would see what you all use.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Minimum acceptable ground clearance below crankarm?

[IanA]

If you still have the 700 x 32 wheels/tires on hand, just measure the 
radius.  An owner of the Hetre 42mm told me that he measured the radius of 
his wheel at from the middle of the tire at the skewer to the edge is about 
33.5 cm.  My true 33mm x 700 wheels/tires on the same measurement basis 
give 350 mm.In my case, that would be a physical drop of 15mm.  Your 
nominally 32mm might be a smaller radius, but you're probably looking at a 
difference of at least 10mm.  Were you pedal striking before?  If not, the 
10mm might be still within a safe margin and you can hold off switching 
cranksets until you have tried the bike in its new iteration as 650b.

Ian A Canada.

On Thursday, November 14, 2013 8:21:12 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 OK, so 19+5=24.  I majored in liberal arts.  What is the significance of 
 the answer?  A 650bx42 tire is 24mm smaller than a 700Cx32 tire?  (assuming 
 sizes printed on the sidewall are more or less correct).




 On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 7:31 AM, Steve Palincsar pali...@his.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 On 11/13/2013 11:54 PM, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I had short reach brakes before with 700x32mm tires and they barely fit 
 under the brake bridge.  Don't know what that converts to in 650b


 subtract the difference in radius (622 - 584 /2) of the smaller rim and 
 add half the additional width (42-32 / 2) of the new tire




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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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[RBW] Re: Ortlieb Rollers!!!!

[IanA]

Good to hear Patrick!  

Personally I like the Rollers for all activities - they're just simple, 
elegant in design and remarkably resilient to abuse.

Ian A
Canada. 

On Friday, November 8, 2013 4:53:12 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I traded a jaded pair of Ortlieb Packer Pluses with fellow lister Joe 
 Broach for a pristine pair of Ortlieb Rollers, 'cuz I don't need high end 
 camping luggage, I need high end grocery luggage. I used them for the first 
 time this afternoon, to carry 35 lb of groceries, and mail to Mom.

 I have a pair of Banjo Bros Market Panniers, which are very large and 
 certainly not bad for the $50/ea price. But MAN! -- those Rollers are 
 NICE!!! So easy to attach to the Fly! So easy to remove! So carefully 
 designed! So elegant in operation!

 I hauled them into Sprouts this afternoon and shoved them onto the 
 conveyor belt along with my fruit and veg and meat and such. The girl 
 bagger said, Unusual! and I agreed.

 35 lb, and they are hardly more than 2/3 full if even that. I bet that I 
 can get two/2/II/dos/deux/do/mbili full paper sacks in each, if I wanted to 
 and if my Fly and my Ram (OT content) could carry such weight.

 Oh: and riding the Ram for the first time in weeks, I was once again 
 struck by how easy multiple gears make climbing steep hills with heavy 
 loads. Hoooda Thunk?

 Patrick Moore, tripping on Rollers, in ABQ, NM

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS- Green Rambouillet, 60cm, built

[IanA]

I also have Kojaks on my LongLow.  The 35mm Kojak tires measure out at 
somewhere between 32 mm to 33 mm on Synergy rims.  The Hetres reputedly run 
close to stated size, so the air volume in the Hetre is considerably more 
than what the Kojaks hold.  

But, I`m keeping my LL as 700c. When the Kojaks wear out, I may give the 
Soma C-Line tires a try - these are said to be true to size at 38 mm.  I`d 
like more air volume than the Kojaks give.

Ian A
Canada

On Friday, October 25, 2013 1:46:18 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:


 Another person's perspective: My 58 cm Ram seems to me to handle superbly 
 with 35 mm Kojaks; not very different, to me, than with the 30 mm Parigi 
 Roubaix.

 On Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 1:30 PM, Toshi Takeuchi tto...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:


 For example, when I rode the Ram with 700c Schwalbe Kojak 35 mm tires, it 
 felt a bit strange to me, which I attribute to the higher bottom height. 
 The cornering felt a bit awkward compared to my 32mm Pasela tires.
  

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[RBW] Re: Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

[IanA]

It does: - IDC has them, but you might need to send them an email first to 
make sure you're getting the right one. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SP-hub-dynamo-dynohub-PV-8-24-28-and-36h-The-most-efficient-and-lightest-/281175032810?pt=US_Hubshash=item41775683ea

On Saturday, October 12, 2013 9:30:10 PM UTC-6, Meade Anderson wrote:

  Thanks, 

 If the SP came in a 36 hole version that would be even better…I only see 
 the 32…

 meade

  
  

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[RBW] Re: Sweet - Good Thing

[IanA]

What if they're the same person?  Deacon Patrick could be the 
alter-superhero-opposite-hair-parting-ego of ABQ Patrick??  

Ian A
Capeless in Edmonton AB Canada

On Thursday, September 26, 2013 6:04:52 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 You can tell them apart by their sign-offs:

 Deacon Patrick always signs off:

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 Patrick Moore signs off in more *varied* ways, like for instance:

 sincerely,

 Patrick-who-in-the-drops-which-are-parallel-to-terra-ferma-as-God-decreed-on-the-curt-build-joe-modified-custom-rode-the-four-tenths-mile-hill-despite-the-stiff-headwind-nevermind-the-G-D-goatheads-in-the-76-inch-gear-in-true-meditative-tempo-out-of-the-saddle-which-is-a-new-old-stock-turbo-at-13.43mph-average-which-is-3.43mph-faster-than-the-newly-svelte-fargo-despite-17.3lbs-of-groceries-and-books-biased-65%-front-35%-rear-Moore
  

 On Thursday, September 26, 2013 4:14:41 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I've only ever had a Hunqapillar. That is ABQ Patrick. We look alike, at 
 least by text. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: Wobbly pedal fix ideas?

[IanA]

Assuming this is a loose bearing pedal, there should be a cone and a lock 
nut - the same system as a loose bearing wheel hub.  First, loosen off the 
lock nut, then turn the cone to the desired setting then tighten the lock 
nut. The lock nut will cause some additional binding/pressure on the cone, 
so the trick is to have the cone a little looser than spot on as the lock 
nut will effectively cause the slack to be taken up.  This part is a matter 
of trial/error and feel, but with some patience, you'll hit the sweet spot. 
 

If, when the lock nut/cones/bearings etc. are all correctly adjusted and 
there is still a wobbly feeling, there is the possibility that the axle 
itself is a touch bent.  With the pedal disassembled and the axle in hand, 
a practiced hand can tap the axle into true using a vise and a slight tap 
of a hammer.  Hopefully, the adjustment will take up the slack and the axle 
is perfectly true.  

Ian A.



On Friday, September 20, 2013 4:54:44 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 This is a branch off of the barefoot pedal thread and pertains to my 
 Bullseye pedals. Brief history: the left pedal got rusty, froze, and my LBS 
 rebuilt it. It still wobbles on the axel, though the wobble feels minimal 
 when riding. I'd like to find a way to eliminate the wobble and make it 
 feel like one piece as the right pedal does.

 Per Riv recommendation, I removed the dust cap and tried tightening the 
 axel bolt. Forgetting the threads are reversed on the left, I loosened it 
 first, realized my mistake, then tightened it, but it reaches a point where 
 it just spins without getting tighter. Am I missing something?

 Other ideas for salvaging this wonderful pair of pedals?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: Wobbly pedal fix ideas?

[IanA]

Whoops, I just reread the posting, where the lock nut is spinning out.  In 
this case, it may be that the thread is stripped on the axle.  Worth 
disassembling the pedal and examining.  If the axle thread is stripped, it 
may be possible to find another compatible axle in a used parts bin at the 
LBS.  To disassemble and rebuild the pedal is fairly straightforward, but 
relatively fiddly work.

On Sunday, September 22, 2013 3:17:11 AM UTC-6, IanA wrote:

 Assuming this is a loose bearing pedal, there should be a cone and a lock 
 nut - the same system as a loose bearing wheel hub.  First, loosen off the 
 lock nut, then turn the cone to the desired setting then tighten the lock 
 nut. The lock nut will cause some additional binding/pressure on the cone, 
 so the trick is to have the cone a little looser than spot on as the lock 
 nut will effectively cause the slack to be taken up.  This part is a matter 
 of trial/error and feel, but with some patience, you'll hit the sweet spot. 
  

 If, when the lock nut/cones/bearings etc. are all correctly adjusted and 
 there is still a wobbly feeling, there is the possibility that the axle 
 itself is a touch bent.  With the pedal disassembled and the axle in hand, 
 a practiced hand can tap the axle into true using a vise and a slight tap 
 of a hammer.  Hopefully, the adjustment will take up the slack and the axle 
 is perfectly true.  

 Ian A.



 On Friday, September 20, 2013 4:54:44 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 This is a branch off of the barefoot pedal thread and pertains to my 
 Bullseye pedals. Brief history: the left pedal got rusty, froze, and my LBS 
 rebuilt it. It still wobbles on the axel, though the wobble feels minimal 
 when riding. I'd like to find a way to eliminate the wobble and make it 
 feel like one piece as the right pedal does.

 Per Riv recommendation, I removed the dust cap and tried tightening the 
 axel bolt. Forgetting the threads are reversed on the left, I loosened it 
 first, realized my mistake, then tightened it, but it reaches a point where 
 it just spins without getting tighter. Am I missing something?

 Other ideas for salvaging this wonderful pair of pedals?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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