[RBW] Re: question re Dremel attachments

[John Stowe]

I end up doing fender stays by hand, usually, just because the tools (bolt 
cutter, file) are quicker to grab-and-use than changing bits on the Dremel. 

But, one Dremel suggestion that hasn't been mentioned: the 932 aluminum 
oxide grinding stone has a concave end which is great for deburring the 
ends of thin objects like fender stays without slipping. Not sure I'd use 
it for housing since it could push the sides in a bit/make a mess of the 
outer plastic.
https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-932-aluminum-oxide-grinding-stone

-John


On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 9:37:51 AM UTC-4 Paul Brodek wrote:

> I'm definitely Team EZ Lock, and have been using the standard Metal Cut 
> Off Wheel for a long time. They do wear/shrink with use, and I just spied 
> this:
>
> https://us.dremel.com/en/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-ez506hp-premium-metal-cutting-wheel
>
> I'm down to just a couple of wheels, so I think I'll try the Premiums next.
>
> BTW, I use these for cutting/trimming cable housing, too. With a 
> rechargeable Dremel. Highly recommended.
>
> For smoothing/sanding, I'm a little more old school, and only use hand/arm 
> power for that. I feel like I have more control with files/sandpaper, and 
> slips are less catastrophic. 
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 8:55:25 AM UTC-4 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Streuth mate, how about the US links, not the Aussie ones;
>>
>>
>> https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-ez406-02-ez-lock-cut-off-wheel-starter-kit
>>
>>
>> https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/ez407sa-ez-drum-mandrel
>>
>> On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 7:53:19 AM UTC-5 Philip Barrett wrote:
>>
>>> I did this with a hacksaw just yesterday! Should have done it your way, 
>>> pure laziness not wanting to leave the house & buy replacement Dremel parts.
>>>
>>> For cutting you want their E-Z Cut system which has a nice quick 
>>> release. Use the "real" Dremel wheels as the quality of the cuts is so much 
>>> higher with less likelihood of shattering.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.dremel.com/au/en/p/dremel-ez-lock-metal-cut-off-wheel-ez456-v746
>>>
>>> For smoothing & sanding, they make an E-Z Lock system for their 13mm 
>>> mandrels which should work great.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.dremel.com/au/en/p/dremel-ez-lock-sanding-mandrel-sanding-band-ez407-v742
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, May 13, 2021 at 9:50:11 PM UTC-5 Jim S. wrote:
>>>
 Hi all, I'm fixing to cut some fender stays and rack struts with my 
 Dremel rotary.

 Wow, there are an incredible number of attachment options. It's rather 
 paralyzing.

 I'd be grateful if you could recommend (1) a Dremel attachment for 
 cutting stays or struts, and (2) an attachment for smoothing out the sharp 
 edges after the cuts.

 Thanks for any information.

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FOR SALE: Custom Rivendell Road Bike

[John Stowe]

Hi Helen,

May your husband rest in peace and rise in glory. 

Unfortunately my family has also dealt a few times in recent years with 
finding homes for beloved, specialized items like this. This beautiful bike 
certainly looks like it was beloved. If you happened to be in the DC area, 
I would happily volunteer to save you some trouble by stopping by and 
taking the relevant measurements. If Rivendell's records turn out to be too 
spotty, maybe someone on this list who lives closer to you would be 
similarly willing. 

In addition to height, weight would have been taken into consideration in 
designing a custom frame. If you're able to estimate your husband's weight 
around the time when he got the bike, it might be helpful to interested 
parties (possibly including me, I'm 6'2" also) in determining how it would 
ride.

Condolences from Alexandria, VA,
John

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:59:53 PM UTC-4 hm_w...@hotmail.com wrote:

> Hi,
> My husband was 6'2"
>
> Thank you for your help!
>
> Sent from Outlook 
>
> --
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  on 
> behalf of Eric Floden 
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 24, 2021 7:45 PM
> *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: FOR SALE: Custom Rivendell Road Bike 
>  
> Hi Helen,
>
> Sorry for your loss.
>
> How tall was your husband? That may not fully answer the question of frame 
> size, but may narrow it down
>
> Thanks
>
> On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 at 19:40, helen wilson  wrote:
>
> Hello,
> This is my husband's bike.  Unfortunately, it is being sold because he 
> passed away, and took many specifics with him.  I have been in contact with 
> Rivendell, although their records are not as extensive for older custom 
> bikes.
>
> I will contact to ask about frame size and a (likely) guestimate of when 
> the bike was built.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Helen
>
> Sent from Outlook 
>
> --
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  on 
> behalf of Berkeleyan 
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 24, 2021 5:54 PM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: FOR SALE: Custom Rivendell Road Bike 
>  
> Do you happen to know the size of the frame? When was it built?
>
> On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 5:24:54 PM UTC-7 hm_w...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>
> -Curt Goodrich built Rivendell Road bike with custom paint by Joe Bell
> -Phil Wood hubs built to Sun CR18 rims
> -SHIMANO Deore XT m772 rear derailer
> -Deore XT cantilever brakes
> -Nitto handlebars and stem
> -Silver bar-end shifters
>
> Immaculately cared for.  Stored in climate controlled garage.
> Located in Pacific Northwest.
>
> Asking $2000, plus shipping if applicable.
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
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[RBW] Re: Helicopter tape recommendation requested (a specific name or URL)

[John Stowe]

I use ISC Racers Tape Surface Guard Tape 
 (not 
to be confused with the regular Racers Tape, which is cloth based like duct 
tape), both for frame protection and to route dynamo wires along frame 
tubes: it keeps the wires from dangling or snagging, and is nearly 
invisible - though zip ties are still helpful for strain relief to keep it 
from pulling up the ends of the tape. Self-adhesive, pulls right back off 
without damaging the paint, and is available in a variety of widths.




On Wednesday, March 31, 2021 at 9:27:17 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Ah, I put that stuff on a car I had. I didn't know it was called 
> helicopter tape, my bad. 
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 31, 2021 at 6:21:47 PM UTC-7 Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, 
> CA wrote:
>
>> On Wednesday, March 31, 2021 at 2:54:09 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Does that stuff really work without messing up the paint? When I clamp a 
>>> toptube in my work stand I use an old t-shirt wrapped around the tube to 
>>> keep the brake wire off the paint. Easy on, easy off, doesn't stay on the 
>>> bike when not needed. 
>>
>>
>> Helicopter tape is basically a thin and clear polyurethane tape with an 
>> adhesive backing. Allegedly, it was invented to protect helicopter blades 
>> from impact damage (presumably smaller objects). For those of us who don't 
>> see too many helicopters, it is more commonly used as protection on the 
>> front of (usually expensive) cars to prevent paint chips from stones and 
>> such. If I have a carbon-fiber mountain bike, I'll probably apply it where 
>> rock chips are likely to hit, like the underside of the downtube, not to 
>> protect the paint so much as to prevent impact damage to the carbon fiber.
>>
>> It'll do fine preventing paint scratches from hanging a bike by the top 
>> tube, although in my experience, it'll likely bunch up when solidly clamped 
>> with a workstand (the polyurethane material is malleable after all). The 
>> adhesive is not strong enough to prevent "creeping" when high forces are 
>> involved, because 3M paint film is designed to be removed without damaging 
>> paint, by using a heat gun or hair dryer. The adhesive is good but isn't 
>> permanent.
>>
>> Just search for "3M paint protection" or "3M paint film" on eBay. For 
>> Roberta's use, this may work. 
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS MUSA Hunqapillar complete 58cm

[John Stowe]

Argh, I have been waiting for the Appaloosas to come in as I've been told I 
need to go sturdier than a Sam Hillborne (I've broken two now!) - a Hunq 
would be even better, but I really can't justify buying the whole bike when 
we're about to drop  on a house project. If you decide to part it out, 
you'd have a buyer for the frame!

-John
Alexandria, VA

On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 9:57:37 AM UTC-5 Alex Wirth- Owner, 
Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:

> Hi All,
> I'm putting my beloved Hunq up for sale.  It's one of those iconic bikes 
> that I thought I would never sell but between my Atlantis and my Susie 
> there is quite a lot of overlap.
>
> I'm only interested in selling as-is minus the saddle.  It's fully 
> equipped to tour.  Usual small chips and marks here and there but overall 
> in good condition, no dents or issues.  There's full res pictures here:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/198M-0cffnCfyKbJnQrghABVHygnsWXwV/view?usp=sharing
>
> *and here are the specs/details:*
>
> -My pbh is 89cm and the saddle is set to ~78cm in the photos, standover is 
> 32.5"
>
> -Nitto bull moose choco bars
> -Nitto bar plugs
> -ESI grips
> -Chris King headset
> -2x10 drivetrain (XT front/rear mechs, deore crank, BB)
> -VP-001 pedals
> -Paul levers
> -Paul cantis w/ diacompe hangers, brass boop/derailleur cable straddle 
> wire (excellent feel/modulation compared to thicker straddle wires)
> -Nitto campee rear rack
> -Nitto low rider front rack (I might have a pair of sackville bags for 
> these if you have interest)
> -Nitto seatpost
> -Spurcycle bell
> -MUSA custom frame bag
> -Planet Bike ALX fenders
> -Reflector
> -Dyno/Alex Adventurer 36h front wheel
> -Velo Orange Gran Cru/Alex Adventurer 36h rear wheel
> -Schwalbe Thunder Burts
> -Velo Orange Mojave cage
> -King cage Iris cage
> -Nitto straddle cable cage/protector if you want to run a saddle bag only 
> and no rack 
>
> Price is $3,600 via PayPal goods and services plus actual shipping w/ 
> insurance via Bike Flights.
>
> Bars will need to ship separate as there's no good way to get them in the 
> bike box I have.
>
> Reach out with questions, cheers!
>
> Alex in Rochester, NY
>
> [image: File_000.jpeg]
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB Nitto Big Back Rack - LARGE

[John Stowe]

I have filled surplus fender holes with ear stretcher plugs 
 for some extra bling. 
They need either a leather washer and loctite, or just glue, to keep from 
rattling loose.

My dynamo taillight of choice is the B Toplight Line brake, because... 
brake lights! Currently running that plus fender-mounted Pixeo (battery, 
motion+dark sensor) on multiple bikes in our family.

 

On Sunday, November 29, 2020 at 2:25:00 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Oh shoot, if only that was known before the tail light install; could have 
> gone with the SON rack mount light.  You could switch to the rack mount 
> light and put a small nut and bolt through the hole left behind, but then 
> it would not be perfect and I understand if that's a deal-breaker. 
>
> This is the light in mind: it is very nice and is made to fit the tab on 
> the back of your rack! Comes in polished too, of course. 
>
> https://www.harriscyclery.net/product/schmidt-son-tail-light-rack-or-seat-post-mount-4844.htm
>
>

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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[John Stowe]

Thanks Bill, the option of just replacing the shell hadn't occurred to me. 
I will ask White about it.

-John

On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 3:06:17 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Given that history, that gets you into the very grey area of 'standing 
> behind one's product'.  I agree it shouldn't have broken, but it's hard to 
> define exactly what White Industries' financial obligation is to owner #2 
> and beyond.  
>
> White Industries does sell replacement hub shells.  New shell, new 
> bearings would get you to a practically as-new hub, for a lot less money 
> than a new one, but a lot more money than $0.  Plus if you have to pay 
> somebody to build you a new wheel, it's even more.  If it were me, that's 
> probably what I would do, and if I was doing that, I'd pay Mike Varley at 
> Black Mountain to do it, because of his expertise with White Industries 
> stuff.  
>
> If you don't want to deal with all that hassle, don't throw it out. 
>  Consider selling your broken hub, because some mechanic on this group 
> might want to make a nice "new" hub on the cheap.  
>
> On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 10:58:37 AM UTC-7, John Stowe wrote:
>>
>> Filling in from a couple of people's questions:
>>
>> I bought the wheel used off this list, so I don't have a retailer to go 
>> to, but it came to me with the original rim (Dyad) which had very little 
>> wear, and was clearly well-built because I never had to touch it until the 
>> brake track was worn out. It was replaced with the spokes in the same 
>> orientation. Spoke tension near, but certainly not over, Velocity's 
>> recommended max. I rode it for about 5,600 miles before this happened, so I 
>> doubt it had 8,000 total given the condition when I got it. Nobody manages 
>> to avoid every single impact from a surprise pothole or whatever, but I 
>> don't ride it on technical singletrack or jump off curbs - and even then I 
>> would expect a broken spoke or dented rim before the hub flange goes.
>>
>> -John
>>
>> On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 1:37:31 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm also in the "36 holes is already overkill" camp. I'm 230 lbs. 
>>> On the other hand, I did just build up two used King hubs and reversed 
>>> the spoke angles from the previous build, and I don't expect them to fail, 
>>> either. 
>>>
>>> Philip
>>> www.biketinker.com 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 4:46:03 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Two people recommended a higher spoke count.  
>>>>
>>>> I'll respectfully disagree with that advice.  One might be in better 
>>>> shape going to a higher spoke count if they are breaking spokes.  That 
>>>> failed hub flange broke between two spoke holes.  If you go to a higher 
>>>> spoke count, that little chunk of material between any two spokes gets 
>>>> even 
>>>> smaller and even weaker.  It is true that a good experienced wheelbuilder 
>>>> has a rule of thumb for spoke tension that they adjust as a function of 
>>>> number of spokes.  Low spoke count wheels need higher tension and higher 
>>>> spoke count wheels do not need as high a tension.  Even with that, I don't 
>>>> see a clear hypothesis that the OP caused the broken hub by using too few 
>>>> spokes.  I'd be more apt to argue the opposite.  32 spokes is plenty with 
>>>> modern rims, and the hub flanges would be stronger with only 16 holes 
>>>> drilled in each flange.  36 spokes is plenty for any normal single person 
>>>> bike application. 
>>>>
>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 3:03:14 PM UTC-7, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I would press White a little more but maybe a higher spoke count is 
>>>>> the way to go
>>>>>
>>>>> Of course I'm assuming you  sent White the photo and told them how 
>>>>> long you had the wheel and what kind of load you're carrying as you told 
>>>>> us...and note that kiddies in trailers tend to get heavier...I hauled my 
>>>>> son around a lot in a trailer but not touring as you did. At any rate, 
>>>>> I'm 
>>>>> glad you found a reasonable replacement and carried on and had a great 
>>>>> tour 
>>>>>  in spite of this, and no one was hurt
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyway, I hope the story has a satisfactory ending
>>>>>
>>>>>

[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[John Stowe]

Filling in from a couple of people's questions:

I bought the wheel used off this list, so I don't have a retailer to go to, 
but it came to me with the original rim (Dyad) which had very little wear, 
and was clearly well-built because I never had to touch it until the brake 
track was worn out. It was replaced with the spokes in the same 
orientation. Spoke tension near, but certainly not over, Velocity's 
recommended max. I rode it for about 5,600 miles before this happened, so I 
doubt it had 8,000 total given the condition when I got it. Nobody manages 
to avoid every single impact from a surprise pothole or whatever, but I 
don't ride it on technical singletrack or jump off curbs - and even then I 
would expect a broken spoke or dented rim before the hub flange goes.

-John

On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 1:37:31 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I'm also in the "36 holes is already overkill" camp. I'm 230 lbs. 
> On the other hand, I did just build up two used King hubs and reversed the 
> spoke angles from the previous build, and I don't expect them to fail, 
> either. 
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com 
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 4:46:03 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Two people recommended a higher spoke count.  
>>
>> I'll respectfully disagree with that advice.  One might be in better 
>> shape going to a higher spoke count if they are breaking spokes.  That 
>> failed hub flange broke between two spoke holes.  If you go to a higher 
>> spoke count, that little chunk of material between any two spokes gets even 
>> smaller and even weaker.  It is true that a good experienced wheelbuilder 
>> has a rule of thumb for spoke tension that they adjust as a function of 
>> number of spokes.  Low spoke count wheels need higher tension and higher 
>> spoke count wheels do not need as high a tension.  Even with that, I don't 
>> see a clear hypothesis that the OP caused the broken hub by using too few 
>> spokes.  I'd be more apt to argue the opposite.  32 spokes is plenty with 
>> modern rims, and the hub flanges would be stronger with only 16 holes 
>> drilled in each flange.  36 spokes is plenty for any normal single person 
>> bike application. 
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 3:03:14 PM UTC-7, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>>
>>> I would press White a little more but maybe a higher spoke count is the 
>>> way to go
>>>
>>> Of course I'm assuming you  sent White the photo and told them how long 
>>> you had the wheel and what kind of load you're carrying as you told 
>>> us...and note that kiddies in trailers tend to get heavier...I hauled my 
>>> son around a lot in a trailer but not touring as you did. At any rate, I'm 
>>> glad you found a reasonable replacement and carried on and had a great tour 
>>>  in spite of this, and no one was hurt
>>>
>>> Anyway, I hope the story has a satisfactory ending
>>>
>>> One of the hallmarks of a  great  company is that they stand behind 
>>> their product. White hubs are pretty and  pretty spendy
>>>
>>> Please let us know what happens.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 4:42:57 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:

 I would go to 40 or 48 spokes for the next wheel. Why fool around 
 trying to save a few grams on spokes. Replacing a wheel on tour is not 
 worth it. Kind of like only carrying one water bottle to save weight in my 
 mind. 
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[John Stowe]

Erl: The Erie Canal was a great route for a family tour, and it helped that 
it was so well-supported. My four year old always had another activity to 
look forward to - museums, boat rides, or at least a rest stop with copious 
snacks - so there was suprisingly little grumpiness! Definitely recommended.

Patrick: I did send the photo to White, and got a reply suggesting that, 
well, it happens sometimes. Undecided whether to press - there was 
certainly nothing strange about the build (super thick spokes, radial 
lacing, etc.).

Eric: You're either looking at the "spider" for the larger end of the 
cassette, or at the rubber mounting straps for this speed 
sensor: http://www.wahoofitness.com/devices/bike-sensors/bluetooth-speed-sensor 
I got sick of aligning magnets, bumping a fork/chainstay sensor out of 
position, etc. so switched to this one, which uses an accelerometer (now 
cheap thanks to cell phones). Mounted on the rear because people have 
reported interference from dynamo hubs.



On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 1:46:43 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> John:
>
> What are those black things around the hub?
>
> --Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
> On Jul 27, 2017, at 10:45 AM, Deacon Patrick <lamon...@mac.com 
> > wrote:
>
> Oh, for reference, my engine is 200#, my bikepacking load is 280 including 
> water and food and bike and engine.
>
> With abandon
> Patrick 
>
> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 11:43:20 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I don't know hubs, but that would seem defective. Worth sending that 
>> photo to White. I just use the Shimano X whatever and Rich build mine 
>> (after I thrashed my factory built rear I'll only go handbuilt with Rich). 
>> Not that that helps your hub question much.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 10:14:29 AM UTC-6, John Stowe wrote:
>>>
>>> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
>>>
>>> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but 
>>> soon discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-awM0HEw4F-s/WXoLxZZFC6I/a8o/W4rVazSkMvIWm52KhSyubH2KFFeHMKgDgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0031.jpg>
>>>
>>> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
>>> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
>>> 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
>>> rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
>>> pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
>>> rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
>>> wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
>>> a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
>>> happens sometimes". 
>>>
>>> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now 
>>> it's time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
>>>
>>>- I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have 
>>>one they want to sell me? 
>>>- What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy 
>>>loading like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using 
>>> Velocity 
>>>Dyads but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro 
>>> tires 
>>>slightly better.
>>>
>>> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
>>> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
>>> otherwise fun week of riding!
>>>
>>> -John
>>>
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[RBW] OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[John Stowe]

Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!

After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:



I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
happens sometimes". 

A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:

   - I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have one 
   they want to sell me? 
   - What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy loading 
   like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using Velocity Dyads 
   but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires 
   slightly better.

More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
otherwise fun week of riding!

-John

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[RBW] WTB: Front centerpull brake

[John Stowe]

I'm experiencing a fender clearance problem on my Sam with R559 sidepulls 
and I'm hoping that switching to a centerpull in the front will fix it. 
Does anyone have a front Paul Racer, Compass, Dia Compe etc. sitting in a 
parts bin that might help me? (Fork crown mount, preferably recessed)

TMI: There was very slight contact with 45mm steel fenders, but it's worse 
with 52mm VO Zeppelins. The "fit" in the front has one arm pushing the 
fender to the side, worse when braking. Rear clearance is fine due to a 
(relatively) higher seat stay bridge.

Thanks,
John


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[RBW] 60cm Cheviot Owner Questions: Which Hitch-mounted Bike Racks Work & Largest Tire Width With Fenders

[John Stowe]

Howard,

Can you describe the clearance problem you had in more detail? I have been 
contemplating the same Zeppelin/Snoqualmie combination for my Sam Hillborne, 
which currently has R559s.

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Sam got hitched: breaking in the Cheviot with a C overnight

[John Stowe]

The whole C+GAP is definitely on our bucket list! I'm working everyone up 
toward longer unsupported trips. Baby steps...

On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 1:51:48 PM UTC-4, WETH wrote:
>
> Great photos.  Beautiful bikes.  I love that stretch of the C canal. 
>  You have the perfect bikes for years of adventures.  After the Erie Canal, 
> plan a trip on The GAP trail if you haven't ridden it.
> All the best,
> Erl
> Kensington, MD

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[RBW] Re: Sam got hitched: breaking in the Cheviot with a C overnight

[John Stowe]

I've taken our son to camp on the C (by bike) last year (DC end, we live 
in Alexandria), but not yet all of us. It will be much easier next time, 
now that we have a trailer!

https://www.flickr.com/gp/edith_john_stowe/fJ5A37


On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 1:41:29 PM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
> John, looks like you had a great time. "Grandma" lives too far away to 
> babysit our little guy, so my wife and I took him camping with us a few 
> weeks ago on the C at Antietam Creek, near Harper's Ferry. No bikes this 
> time, but it won't be long.
>
> On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 12:24:01 AM UTC-4, John Stowe wrote:
>>
>> I've had my Sam Hillborne almost 5 years ago now, and I've been hoping to 
>> get my wife on a Riv since then. Our upcoming Erie Canal trip this summer 
>> provided the perfect excuse. Partial build from Gravel & Grind in 
>> Frederick, MD (co-owner Tracy generously offered us hers after a test ride, 
>> as there's currently a shortage of orange frames) with other parts 
>> scrounged from this list and the local coop (the second set of Dura Ace bar 
>> ends I've found there!) to keep costs down. A few minor refinements to 
>> make, but overall she's very happy with the pretty standard "Riv-ish" 
>> build. I liked the Spank Oozy pedals on the test ride and got an extra pair 
>> for my Sam.
>>
>> I finished building in time for a Friday morning (three Fridays ago, I'm 
>> slow sorting through pictures) "shake-down" commute, during which nothing 
>> broke, so it was off to Hagerstown to drop the kid with grandma. After 
>> Saturday morning's rain let up, we loaded up the bikes and went for a spin 
>> on the C Canal. We discovered a folk festival at Fort Frederick, with 
>> lots of canvas tents and colonial-era costumes, and ate dinner at a diner 
>> in Hancock, MD. Since we were trying some new camping gear as well as the 
>> new bike, we only went a couple of miles further to the next campsite, 
>> which we had all to ourselves, to leave time to make some mistakes and 
>> still get set up in daylight. Plus, 34 miles seemed like enough for a first 
>> outing on the Cheviot. In the morning we ate breakfast at the same 
>> restaurant, and did part of the return trip on the Western Maryland Rail 
>> Trail. Again, pretty deserted - maybe we're just used to the high weekend 
>> traffic in DC and Alexandria!
>>
>> Perhaps the rain kept a few people away, but we were surprised at how 
>> empty the trail was. There were stretches of an hour or more where we 
>> didn't encounter anyone else. There were some mud puddles here and there, 
>> but nothing too challenging despite our slick-ish tires. Definitely a 
>> confidence booster for us both looking forward to the Erie Canal in July.
>>
>> Coupla pics:
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xVw61-gSK1A/WRp8jzr-w_I/ZIg/58gb4VJGR60wDoqnfJNcE3aY7pZ1bgbXQCLcB/s1600/DSC_0697.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9x0EyWmPK9c/WRp9FVWJsuI/ZIo/TWpyMvhsfUMyA5EDpCf0sSLgX1peBnBggCLcB/s1600/DSC_0701.jpg>
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dpGzHXXFRWY/WRp9SKncbGI/ZIs/NS0P_uADOhUIRoyXHI9aPOEprd87WY7ZwCLcB/s1600/DSC_0728.jpg>
>>
>>
>>
>> More pics:
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHskWumNT4
>>
>

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[RBW] Sam got hitched: breaking in the Cheviot with a C overnight

[John Stowe]

I've had my Sam Hillborne almost 5 years ago now, and I've been hoping to 
get my wife on a Riv since then. Our upcoming Erie Canal trip this summer 
provided the perfect excuse. Partial build from Gravel & Grind in 
Frederick, MD (co-owner Tracy generously offered us hers after a test ride, 
as there's currently a shortage of orange frames) with other parts 
scrounged from this list and the local coop (the second set of Dura Ace bar 
ends I've found there!) to keep costs down. A few minor refinements to 
make, but overall she's very happy with the pretty standard "Riv-ish" 
build. I liked the Spank Oozy pedals on the test ride and got an extra pair 
for my Sam.

I finished building in time for a Friday morning (three Fridays ago, I'm 
slow sorting through pictures) "shake-down" commute, during which nothing 
broke, so it was off to Hagerstown to drop the kid with grandma. After 
Saturday morning's rain let up, we loaded up the bikes and went for a spin 
on the C Canal. We discovered a folk festival at Fort Frederick, with 
lots of canvas tents and colonial-era costumes, and ate dinner at a diner 
in Hancock, MD. Since we were trying some new camping gear as well as the 
new bike, we only went a couple of miles further to the next campsite, 
which we had all to ourselves, to leave time to make some mistakes and 
still get set up in daylight. Plus, 34 miles seemed like enough for a first 
outing on the Cheviot. In the morning we ate breakfast at the same 
restaurant, and did part of the return trip on the Western Maryland Rail 
Trail. Again, pretty deserted - maybe we're just used to the high weekend 
traffic in DC and Alexandria!

Perhaps the rain kept a few people away, but we were surprised at how empty 
the trail was. There were stretches of an hour or more where we didn't 
encounter anyone else. There were some mud puddles here and there, but 
nothing too challenging despite our slick-ish tires. Definitely a 
confidence booster for us both looking forward to the Erie Canal in July.

Coupla pics:










More pics:
https://flic.kr/s/aHskWumNT4

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Re: [RBW] I need a new helmet and am hoping for advice

[John Stowe]

I have been riding a Giro Sutton MIPS since December 2015 and find it very 
comfortable. Much lighter than the Nutcase it replaced. It's on Sierra 
Trading Post right now for $55, if you don't mind neon yellow. I don't use 
a mirror so no advice there.

Giro have some "normal" - looking SPD shoes, too, which I would wear if 
they made them a size or two larger!

-John


On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 11:32:03 AM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a POC helmet, in part because it doesn’t look “racy” 
> or aero. They have many models, but I bought this one:
>
>
> https://www.competitivecyclist.com/poc-trabec-helmet?skidn=POC0106-RESBL-ML=UExQIEJyYW5kOlBPQyBCaWtlIEhlbG1ldHM6MTo2OjEwMDAwMDU3NF9jY0NhdDEwMDA1Mw==
>  
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On May 8, 2017, at 5:01 AM, bo richardson  
> wrote:
>
> i am in the market for a mid price range helmet that is not very aero.
> not aero. i am not worried about air slamming into the vacuum behind my 
> helmet at speeds in excess of 12 mph.
>
> polo helmet-ish would be nice. if i could get one with lights built an and 
> a mirror as part of the helmet that would be perfect. 
>
> mirrors  on the glasses earpiece bend the glasses out of shape.
>
> i would also buy a pair of glasses with an integrated mirror if that were 
> available.
>
> does anyone have a suggestion?
>
> thanks so much
>
> bo
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Which Compass tires for a Sam Hillborne riden on pavement

[John Stowe]

Jan's testing method involves actually riding down a road, so air resistance 
should play into his results - at least at testing speeds (wind drag rises with 
the square of velocity) - which is another reason to trust his results more 
than those from a smooth, stationary roller.

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Re: [RBW] Re: 3M helicopter tape

[John Stowe]

I have the ISC version linked by Hugh. Works well for me for frame protection 
and dynamo wire routing.

-John 

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[RBW] Re: #%*#! Fenders!!!!

[John Stowe]

On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 4:51:53 AM UTC-4, panog wrote:
>
>
> I cant see how the SKS P45 is described to cover up to 45mm tires 
> (assuming there is enough clearance to mount them high enough to do so) and 
> still keep your feet protected from the tire blow-off spray while in the 
> rain.




I've always assumed that the SKS models were named according to the 
recommended tire width, e.g. the P45 would actually be around 52-55mm wide 
in order to accommodate up to 45mm tires. Is this not the case? Disclaimer: 
the only plastic fenders I have are Planet Bike so I don't have a sample to 
check.

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[RBW] Re: Compass tires for Sam

[John Stowe]

Does anyone have experience with both the Compas Snoqualmie (or Barlow) and the 
Soma Shikoro? I have been thinking of going wider than the current 38's on My 
Sam and the Shikoro 42mm seemed like the right call, but now I'm wondering 
about the Snoqualmie too. The main difference (besides a tiny bit of width) 
seems to be a Kevlar layer in the Shikoro. 

I haven't pulled the trigger yet because I would need to put on bigger fenders, 
but with the load in the rear child seat getting heavier and a mostly unpaved 
tour (Erie Canal) coming up this summer, it seems like it might be time.

Thanks,
John

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[RBW] S240 Season Opener Pics

[John Stowe]

Glad to see another family getting out there! We will be riding the Erie Canal 
this summer with our 4 year old and his grandmother so thanks for the preview. 
Mommy and Grandma are apprehensive about the snake picture though.

Just put in our deposit with Gravel & Grind (Frederick, MD) on a Cheviot for my 
wife so we will be doubling up on Rivs for the trip. We are looking forward to 
some "training" S24Os on the C this spring!

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[RBW] Re: Saddles destroying my jeans! Advice?

[John Stowe]

I have had no issues with staining from my "natural" (undyed) leather 
Brooks. I still wear through crotches on a regular basis, though, even on 
the smooth leather - I just had to "retire" (to gardening duty) another 
pair of shorts last week.

-John


On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 10:56:28 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> Looking for some advice. I have a Brooks Cambium on my SimpleOne commuter. 
> I love the saddle, but it's destroyed two pairs of nice jeans in very short 
> order (and every leather Brooks I've had has bled dye pretty badly). I'd 
> love to solve it with a dedicated pair of riding pants, but this is my main 
> mode of transportation, so I need to be able to ride it in my everyday 
> clothes.
>
> Anyone recommend a saddle that doesn't wear out the crotches of pants too 
> easily and doesn't bleed dye? It needn't be super comfortable over long 
> distances, as this is my city ride.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Pass & Stow Porteur Rack Experiences.

[John Stowe]

Looks like I can't insert images into my post on mobile, but I have lots of 
pics carrying things on my Pass & Stow on Flickr, including panniers and Swift 
Porteur bag: 

https://flickr.com/photos/92029336@N05/sets/72157632662614859

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[RBW] Costco runs on bicycle (Was:Front rack w/ basket and panniers)

[John Stowe]

"Our" Costco in Arlington, VA is about as well situated as one can hope for, 
with bike lanes all the way there and proximity to a major trail. There's a 
bike rack near the entrance, though it seems to be used mainly by employees. 
I've convinced the staff to let me wheel the bike through the store a couple of 
times when my son was sleeping in his seat.

We signed up primarily for diapers and baby formula, and in the diaper days I 
would often stop on my way home and load up my Pass & Stow porteur rack, with 
other small items in my rear pannier or even piled up in front: 

https://flic.kr/p/igxQLd

I don't buy 40 lb. bags of mulch or dog food, though. For that I would want a 
longtail or box bike (bakfiets).

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Re: [RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[John Stowe]

The only truly distinctive feature I can point to for electronic shifting is 
that you can put the buttons where you need them, and you can have more than 
one per derailleur. Not crucial for the riding most of us do, perhaps, but on a 
time trial bike the ability to shift either on the aero bars or on the outer 
bullhorns, while maintaining control of the bike, could conceivably make a 
difference in a race.

But for the rest of us? Shrug.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Yepp Mini on Rivendell experiences?

[John Stowe]

Here's a great comparison chart, including weight limits: 
http://www.twowheelingtots.com/child-bike-seat-comparison-guide

By the time mine hit the 33 lb weight limit on our Bobike mini, I was ready to 
switch to a back seat just for handling/weight distribution.

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[RBW] Re: Clementine baby carriage

[John Stowe]

Looking good! 

"Baby on the way" was the excuse to get my Riv, also with Bosco Bullmoose 
bars. Just remember that anticipatory shifting becomes crucial as there's 
not much room to stand up on the pedals. My son loved sitting up front 
where he could see and ring the bell. When he outgrew the Bobike Mini front 
seat and moved to the back, I found myself wishing for a step-through 
frame. You'll appreciate your choice when you get there. Now that he's 
moved to a WeeHoo trailer most of the time (though I still have the rear 
seat bracket attached) it's a non-issue again.

Enjoy your many upcoming family adventures!
-John

(The last picture is from our trip to CO in August... I finished sorting 
through pictures over Christmas but owe a vacation report and many thanks 
to Deacon Patrick and Val!)


 








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[RBW] Re: Helmets... what do you like?

[John Stowe]

Since I don't see it mentioned above: I have been happy with my Giro Sutton 
MIPS. Fits my large/long head (61cm) just fine, doesn't look like a 
spaceship, soft visor, pretty light, good coverage in the back and a 
complete hard shell means no exposed foam when hanging from a bag and 
bumping into walls/train seats/etc. I managed to snag one off of Sierra 
Trading Post at the end of last year for cheap, less than half price. I 
don't know how much the MIPS accomplishes, but like others said: it might 
help, certainly won't hurt, and doesn't cost much, so why not.

I also have a Giro Atmos hanging in the shed, rarely used unless I know I'm 
going on a long hot ride and want the ventilation. It's a crash replacement 
for a previous Atmos I was wearing when I got knocked down by a U-turning 
taxi (DC riders: yes, I was in the Penn Ave. bike lane). I didn't hit my 
head very hard, but enough to dent the foam and separate the shell. Riv 
content: the insurance payout funded my Sam! So I guess getting hit turned 
out to be good for my cycling life, in the end...

-John


On Sunday, September 11, 2016 at 12:06:41 AM UTC-4, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> I've been using a helmet that the designers at Specialized gave me several 
> years ago.  It's a nice helmet but it's getting pretty grungy and probably 
> needs to be replaced.  Having only spent about $50 or $60 on helmets in the 
> past 20 years, I figured it's time to pony up for a new helmet.  As I 
> started to search I was amazed at (1) the range of helmets I'd never seen; 
> (2) some of the new innovations that are coming out and; (3) some of the 
> prices that helmets are hitting these days.  I may just try to ping on 
> friends in the industry for another freebie but I use it so often, I may 
> actually get picky and open the wallet for this one. I'm not looking to 
> start a pro-helmet/anti-helmet debate, just looking for insights from those 
> who use 'em.  What are people liking out there and why?  I'd love to hear 
> everyone's latest thoughts on helmets.
>
>  
>
> BTW... I did go down the "folding helmet rabbit hole" when I was 
> searching.  Some crazy new things coming out.  
>
>
> http://www.treehugger.com/bikes/dash-and-stash-stash-folding-bike-helmet.html
>
> http://www.morpherhelmet.com/
>
>
> https://store.moma.org/museum/moma/ProductDisplay_Fuga-Foldable-Helmet_10451_10001_227971_-1_26715_11506_221954?gclid=CIC3h9Szhs8CFY9bfgodLwoAkg
>
>
> http://www.backcountrygear.com/madillo.html?gclid=CPD56pq0hs8CFQtnfgodRS4JwA
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Overade-Foldable-Folding-Bicycle-Helmet/dp/B00TA4TF4E
>
> http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/pango-folding-helmet
>
>  
>
> ...and my wife found this one: http://www.ecohelmet.com/
>
>  
>
> John “Not wearing a paper helmet anytime soon”
>

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[RBW] Re: Family trip to Denver in August: ride suggestions/travel tips/kid equipment help?

[John Stowe]

Thanks to you both for these great suggestions. We will definitely be 
checking out as much of this as we can.

On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 1:09:28 PM UTC-4, Valerie Yates wrote:
>
> Wow Patrick - that sounds amazing. I haven't done any riding in that area 
> so I am also glad to learn about it. The routes I listed are definitely 
> more everyday kind of rides. Pretty and manageable but not exceptional. 
>
> On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 8:48:58 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> John, I can speak highly of the Cripple Creek area for trains and 
>> dinosaurs. The other areas may have similar things, I don't know. Here are 
>> links to some of what the area offers:
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: First S24O, on the C Canal

[John Stowe]

Yeah, I figured we'd start with the closest campsite and get more ambitious 
later. There's another just a couple of miles further, which I had in mind as a 
backup in case the first was full. We'll try it next!

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[RBW] Re: Family trip to Denver in August: ride suggestions/travel tips/kid equipment help?

[John Stowe]

Thanks to both of you! We haven't booked anything outside of Denver yet so 
the mountain towns are definitely a possibility and very appealing. As you 
say, we would get more out of leaving Denver that way.

Route length/difficulty: My wife is OK with 20 mile outings, but starts to 
balk at a ride over 30 miles, and I don't think she's done more than 40 in 
a day. Given the altitude I would probably have a harder time than usual 
coaxing her beyond 25-30. I am in worse shape than I was when I did 
centuries a few years back, but apparently I can still manage 24 miles 
"fully loaded" with camping gear and child (see the S24O ride report I just 
posted). Most of the riding we do on a regular basis (for transportation, 
mostly) is near the tidal part of the Potomac, so we're definitely 
unaccustomed to "real" climbing, but we're game to try some mountain riding 
in manageable doses. Dirt should be OK as long as it's not technical 
singletrack.

Do you know if any of the railroad routes have historic stations/old 
engines/etc. that we could "stumble across" and check out? Thanks to the 
success of Thomas the Tank Engine, every 3 year old is a train buff these 
days. I would like to find something dinosaur-related to check out too, on 
bike or off, since he'll eat that up too.

Thanks,
John


On Wednesday, July 20, 2016 at 4:12:24 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Awesome, John! Whatever you end up doing will be an amazing adventure. 
> Some things to think about from someone who grew up in Ft. Collins, spend a 
> fair bit of time in Boulder, has lived in Denver, Colorado Springs, and now 
> a wee mountain town a bit to the west:
>
> -- Why not go to a mountain town instead of Ft. Collins or Boulder? They 
> are not in the mountains, and so if you are relocating, you might as well 
> go into the mountains. Grin. Doing this would mean you could bike out your 
> front door and try various routes, at least in many places. It would put 
> you at a higher altitude, however, so you'd need to allow for that.
> -- Mountain towns easily accessible and within 90 minutes of Denver (at 
> least they were in the early 90's when I was in college): Breckenridge, 
> Fairplay, Cripple Creek/Victor (2 hours away?) Estes Park, and Grand Lake 
> (several other towns in the vicinity as well), each with great Forest 
> Service roads and excellent biking opportunities (check with the local bike 
> store for route ideas. I'm less sure of Estes and Grand Lake and their 
> biking opportunities, because much of their surrounding land in Rocky 
> Mountain National Park, so investigate that if you are going there). 
> Breckenridge and Fairplay both have various dirst roads up mountain passes 
> that are amazing to bike and Boreas Pass out of Breckenridge is old 
> railroad grade so 3-4% grade max I think (others are too, as narrow gauge 
> railroads became dirt roads in many cases. I just don't remember the 
> origins of Mosquito Pass or others. Out of Cripple Creek, loads of old 
> railroad options: Old Stage Coach road, Phantom Cañon Road, Shelf Road (not 
> sure if it was a railroad). 
> -- There is amazing family friendly riding connecting the towns along the 
> tributaries of the N. Platte around Deckers/Buffalo Creek and the other wee 
> towns there, and that is just S.W. of Denver (285 West to Pine, then South, 
> to find it on the map). It's on various paved and dirt roads, wide, with 
> great river (creek by most standards) access (fishing if you want/get a 
> license). Kids love stops at the river. The Colorado Trail goes through 
> here for a good hiking option, and Lost Creek Wilderness is very close as 
> well.
>
> Hope that helps. Ask any clarifying questions you have!
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Wednesday, July 20, 2016 at 11:57:24 AM UTC-6, John Stowe wrote:
>>
>> My family (me, wife and 3 year old) will be visiting my brother in Denver 
>> to for two weeks at the end of August. We're thinking of staying in Denver 
>> for a week and then traveling somewhere else nearby like Boulder or Fort 
>> Collins to access the mountains more easily for a few days. I'd love to 
>> hear from any locals about suggestions for rides (or other "must-do" 
>> activities) we could do out there. As with other recent riding-with-others 
>> threads, we have one reasonably strong rider and one eager but a bit less 
>> ambitious rider, with the added bonus/weight of a toddler and higher 
>> altitude (we're at sea level here in Alexandria VA), so I think we would 
>> skew toward shorter routes with good scenery or other interesting places. 
>> Breaking up a longer outing with lunch/museum/fossils/frogs/whatever would 
>> help keep the toddler happy!
>>
>> The other question I hope list member

[RBW] First S24O, on the C Canal

[John Stowe]

With my wife out of town for the week last week, to break up the full-time 
childcare marathon I decided to declare a camping trip for me and my 3 
("and a half!") year old son. The weather and open schedule lined up to set 
off Thursday afternoon. We camped with him last summer on a road trip, so 
he remembered and was excited about sleeping in a tent etc., but this was 
the first S24O (and first bike camping trip) either of us had been on. With 
the child seat blocking the rear rack, I was grateful for the carrying 
capacity of my Pass & Stow rack up front. Warm weather meant we could 
lighten the load by skipping sleeping bags.




In the morning my passenger got a surprise gift of binoculars which 
successfully kept him occupied on a long ride for him, over 2 hours of 
riding plus breaks. It was a Very Hot Day, 90+, though not as humid as DC 
can sometimes be. The first 8 miles (of 24), from Alexandria to Georgetown 
on the Mount Vernon Trail, is part of my old commute and a route I still 
ride several times a week - it was interesting to take it at a much slower 
pace than usual (though not reduced effort!). Fortunately we left early 
enough that we didn't get caught up in tangles of commuter traffic, so I 
didn't have to do much regaining my momentum. The climb up to the Key 
Bridge has a very steep bit which actually forced me into "granny gear" - a 
rarity in our fairly flat surroundings. I was glad for the foresight of 
including 24/32 gearing when I was selecting components 4 years ago!

The shade on the C Canal towpath helped with the heat considerably, and 
the change in scenery made things more interesting for both of us. We took 
a couple of 'nature breaks' and snack/water stops and slowed down a few 
times to check out birds and fish in the canal. My Sam Hillborne handled 
the packed dirt/stone towpath quite well, with the front/back loading much 
closer to evenly balanced than I've gotten used to with my son in his rear 
seat. I wondered if the 35mm Schwalbe Delta Cruisers I have on it for city 
riding might not be wide enough for the load + dirt, but they did fine - if 
we were doing a multi-day trip, though, something wider would be better. I 
was able to pin down a handling quirk I had felt a few times before with 
heavy front loads, when the steering would start to feel springy. I thought 
before that it was play in the rack, but the slightly rougher dirt surface 
didn't seem to bother it at all. The Pass & Stow is very solid. Instead the 
springiness I felt in large steering inputs seemed was due to twisting in 
the stem! The leverage of the wide Bosco Bullmoose bars combined with the 
inertia of the rack load gave me something to push against and wind it up - 
enough to see the twist in the bars relative to the rack. Next time I have 
a big load I will try adding some Irish Straps between the bars and the 
load/rack to see if they help firm things up.




We got to the campsite (Swain's Lock, for those who know the C) about 
7pm, just in time for dinner. We brought spaghetti, [no longer frozen] 
meatballs and sauce from home and cooked it on the Trangia. My previous 
attempt at using the Trangia was on a very windy beach at Nag's Head, NC, 
where I was burning through fuel faster than I could get water boiling. 
This time it was much more efficient, and actually got a bit too hot at the 
bottom. I had to pick some burned noodles off the pot later. Set up the 
tent while dinner cooked, and ready for bed just-like-that. Except: unlike 
most of the campgrounds, which have wells with hand pumps to provide water, 
this had a standpipe that was... turned off. A check on my smartphone 
revealed that it had been for some time. I had brought along a filter "just 
to be safe" with the well water and ended up using it to filter 6L of water 
straight from the Potomac. I was very dehydrated from the hot day and the 
effort, and did not plan for enough water carrying capacity - the nearest 
fresh water was a 5 mile round trip back down the canal to the Great Falls 
visitor center, and I would have had a hard time coaxing my now sleepy 
passenger back onto the bike. The overnight temperature didn't get much 
below 80, a bit hotter than I would have liked, but we managed with shirts 
off and a bedsheets from home. Between the heat, needing to rehydrate, and 
trying to work out comfortable sleeping positions (I had only been able to 
find one of our two sleeping pads - another one is on order!), it took a 
while to get settled. Oh, and there was a crisis because we forgot to bring 
the beloved stuffed dog, Ruff Ruff.




There were some fishermen pulling their kayaks out of the water at the 
campsite (there is vehicle access there) and a couple of other bike campers 
setting up when we arrived. Dealing with 

[RBW] Family trip to Denver in August: ride suggestions/travel tips/kid equipment help?

[John Stowe]

My family (me, wife and 3 year old) will be visiting my brother in Denver to 
for two weeks at the end of August. We're thinking of staying in Denver for a 
week and then traveling somewhere else nearby like Boulder or Fort Collins to 
access the mountains more easily for a few days. I'd love to hear from any 
locals about suggestions for rides (or other "must-do" activities) we could do 
out there. As with other recent riding-with-others threads, we have one 
reasonably strong rider and one eager but a bit less ambitious rider, with the 
added bonus/weight of a toddler and higher altitude (we're at sea level here in 
Alexandria VA), so I think we would skew toward shorter routes with good 
scenery or other interesting places. Breaking up a longer outing with 
lunch/museum/fossils/frogs/whatever would help keep the toddler happy!

The other question I hope list members can help me with is about equipment: it 
looks like if we want to do more than about 4 days of riding, it's cheaper to 
ship our bikes than to rent. When we've traveled with our bikes before we've 
driven, so flying and shipping is an unknown to us. Any tips or perils to watch 
out for would be appreciated.

I'm especially unsure about what to do with the rear child seat, as it's pretty 
bulky and likely won't fit in a box with one of the bikes. I think my preferred 
solution, if I can make a connection with somebody, would be to leave the seat 
at home and borrow a WeeHoo or other trailer bike. My son is reaching the age 
where we are thinking about getting one of these and this seems like a good 
opportunity to the one out. If anyone has one we could borrow, or knows someone 
who does, I'd appreciate speaking with you off-list. The rental places around 
us are loath to rent trailers unless they're connected to one of their bikes 
and I imagine I'll run into a similar issue out there. 

Thanks in advance, I appreciate any suggestions!
John 

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[John Stowe]

Having a caliper brake doesn't preclude mounting a rack at the fork crown. 
In fact, it's handy because it means you already have a bolt! I have my 
Pass & Stow rack and a fender mounted on my Sam using the front brake 
bolt: https://flic.kr/p/dURLir

-John

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:00:38 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
> Any front rack that fits easily without a lot of bodging would be fine.
>
> I usually would want silver, but since my rear rack is a spare Trek that I 
> had around (which is black), a black front rack would balance it out.
>
> As far as size, anything!  I'm really just trying to gather a list of what 
> fits, for later purchase.
>
> A lot of stuff for instance requires using the fork crown hole. Can't, as 
> it's used on the Sam (by the brake).
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:57:36 AM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>>
>> Jon,
>>
>> could you be a little more specific on what you're looking for?  a small 
>> rack, a full-size rack? what do you want to carry? a trunk sack? panniers?
>>
>> all of my experience is with the nitto options, so can't comment on 
>> alternatives--i'm also a bit of a color matcher, so putting a silver nitto 
>> rack with a black blackburn wouldn't work for me!
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:44:22 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>>>
>>> "WTB" usually means "Want To Buy."  I don't necessarily want to buy one, 
>>> I just want the info on what has worked for people, for future reference.  
>>> Budget is totally depleted for now (2x Sams is a lot of money!)
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-4, Howard Hatten wrote:

 Jon
 Congratulations on your new bikes. SAMs are really nice bikes. For your 
 rack needs just post a WTB to the list. This group is very friendly & they 
 know just what will work for your bike. I'm sure you'll find something in 
 no time. 
 Safe riding

 Howard
 Livonia Mi

>>>

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[RBW] Re: How do you glue wire (from a light) to a rack?

[John Stowe]

I agree that somervillebikes' work is the gold standard when it comes to 
wiring. Lots of "textbook" photos on his Flickr 
photostream: https://flic.kr/ps/7De6c

If you don't feel like messing with glue: I went with 8 mil surface guard 
tape ("helicopter tape" or "racers tape"). It's thick enough to provide 
some surface protection (what it's designed for), and clear so it's pretty 
discreet. I have used it to run wiring on multiple bikes. At more than a 
foot or two away, the tape is barely noticeable, all you see is the wire. 
It's also forgiving in terms of changing your setup or realigning the wire. 
You can pull it right back off without damaging paint.

-John



On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 12:40:13 PM UTC-4, René wrote:
>
> Thanks Bill. 
>
> On Sunday, June 12, 2016, Bill Lindsay  
> wrote:
>
>> Anton at VeloLumino is the best source of guidance and info.  The thing 
>> to do is glue short sections of aluminum tubing which comes in very 
>> accurate IDs so it can really fit perfectly.  The glue is silicone, like 
>> modest household Hogar. It's clear, waterproof yes easy to remove when you 
>> need to remove it. Anton has tons of photos. His Flickr handle is 
>> sommervilebikes or something like that.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Pass & Stow Porteur Rack Experiences.

[John Stowe]

The Pass & Stow works great with top loads and panniers. When I have a 
child seat blocking the rear rack, I can move panniers to the front, no 
problem. I do wish that I had a bag for the top rack for better load 
balancing, but I too have had problems with Freight - fortunately, it 
seems, before giving them any money. 

The feature that attracted me to Freight's version was their backpack 
straps. Matthew, or someone else with a Swift bag, do you think the 
retaining clips on the back of the Swift are far enough apart that they 
could be used as attachment points for backpack straps, along with the loop 
at the top?



On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 11:08:40 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:
>
> Got here too late.  Very happy with my Pass Stow.  
>>
>>
> n.b.:  While the Freight Bag Dan mentions above looks nice, my experience 
> with the company is very bad.  I paid for one on line.  Bag never showed. 
>  All my e-mails were for naught.  I guess I could have sued, but being out 
> of state makes pressing a small claims case throwing good money after bad.
>
> The Swift Pelican I ultimately got works well.
>

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[RBW] Re: Yepp Mini on Rivendell experiences?

[John Stowe]

I went with a Bobike since it seemed to give me a bit more clearance, 
though I think I was mostly concerned with knees. On my 58 Sam there's a 
little more top tube length to work with, but the front seat precluded 
standing up on the pedals or getting more than a toe down at stoplights. 
Definitely improved my trackstanding during that time. As others have 
mentioned, handlebars matter too: I went with Bosco Bullmoose's, which 
curve back nicely around (and put the bell within reach!). So far I haven't 
bothered to execute the original plan of using cable couplers to swap with 
Noodles, even now that my passenger has moved to a rear seat (Thule). I've 
gotten good at kicking my foot over the front (easier when dismounting, 
since my hips are slightly higher when I'm on the seat/standing on the 
pedals) but a Cheviot would certainly help now!

Another congrats to Tony, and an offer from your neighbor in Alexandria: 
you're welcome to try mounting my Bobike on your bike(s) and take it for a 
spin!

-J

  
 
  


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Re: [RBW] loaded handling question

[John Stowe]

I've ridden my Sam with many, many different cargo arrangements at this 
point, and perhaps oddly for this group, none (so far) have involved 
camping/touring. Yesterday I rode my Sam with 33 lb. of toddler on the back 
and 33lb. of groceries on the front (and 233 lb. of me in the middle... 
hm). So more than 40 lb. is certainly possible. I've never had a problem on 
my Sam with what I'd call shimmy, but certain configurations, especially 
with high/forward weight over the front wheel, preclude handsfree operation 
and require a bit more care with how you handle the bike.

I do recognize the like a noodle description from the guy at Pardee on 
the LHT. The comments above about rack stability are absolutely right. If I 
load the lightly-built rear rack on my aluminum Trek with a full load of 
groceries, the rack will flex as I go around turns, or even just pedaling 
if the load is heavy, and it does feel disconcertingly like I'm riding a 
noodle. The much stiffer (Tubus Cosmo) rack on my Sam doesn't flinch. On 
the front, this problem can be much worse: my front rack is also quite 
sturdy (PassStow), but if I'm carrying something big, even though the rack 
can support the weight, a steering input at the handlebars has to travel a 
pretty long route to get to that weight: bars - stem - steerer - fork 
legs - rack legs - straps or bungies or zipties - shifting within the 
bag or box or basket. Each step along that chain has its own flex and is 
potentially much closer to the axis of rotation than the load, which can 
create a delay between your steering input and the load following, and make 
it feel like you're steering the bike out from under your cargo (well, you 
are).

All of this is to say that if you're carrying something in front of the 
handlebars, I strongly endorse Doug's suggestion of getting the weight down 
close to the hub, or Chris's suggestion of strapping the load directly to 
the handlebars - not so much to support the weight, but to gain more direct 
control over the load by shortcutting that chain between the bars and the 
weight. I think I remember one of the Riv videos about front racks or maybe 
baskets included a bit about tying to the handlebars. While I've certainly 
had to ride with my load in mind (avoid sudden turns and huge bumps), I've 
never felt unstable or unsafe even with a comically large front load, as 
long as it was directly attached to the handlebars. 

By comically large, I mean add another box to the stack in this picture 
(too bad my phone ran out of battery that day) and then climb past some 
amused staffers inside the security perimeter at the US 
Capitol: https://flic.kr/p/igxQLd


On Tuesday, June 2, 2015 at 10:12:29 AM UTC-4, Chris Chen wrote:

 I found that with the homer + mark's rack + basket load, if I didn't add a 
 second set of struts to the rack, I'd get these harmonic movements that got 
 really nerve wracking on decents, etc. Sort of solved it by either

 1) irish strapping rack to the handlebars
 2) replacing with big front rack

 On my low trail chicken, with heavy loads I also get oscillating movement, 
 but we're talking tens of pounds here, like two cases of beer territory; I 
 often clamp the top tube with my legs and I it calms it down--in this case 
 I can definitely see the flexing of the tubes as this happens.

 cc

 On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 5:01 PM, cyclotourist cyclot...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Thanks Doug! Last weekend would have been a good time to talk about
 this, but too busy scraping off the mud! :-)
 I only had the one pannier this time, so figure that could be a
 contributing factor. Although last time I had two, with same effect.
 Hands-free isn't the absolute goal, but riding with a light touch
 would be nice! I get death-shimmy at even real low speeds if I let go
 of the bars, and a minor one if I use one hand light. Gotta' be a
 better way!

 On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 4:32 PM, dougP doug...@cox.net javascript: 
 wrote:
  David:
 
  As you can see, there is no single answer to the shimmy problem.
  Personally, I think where the load is, both front / rear and high / 
 low) and
  how each of us rides are major factors.  A good example is Joe Bartoe's
  experience with shimmy on his Hilsen with a light front load, whereas my
  Atlantis will shimmy with a lightly loaded rear saddlebag but moving 
 that
  bag to the front solves the problem.  Atlantis  Homer are different 
 bikes,
  and Joe  I are different sizes and likely riding styles.
 
  As to solving the puzzle, I found a gentle hill that allowed the bike 
 roll
  up to about 20 mph w/o pedaling (pedaling seems to dampen things for 
 me).  I
  took 4 panniers loaded with books to simulate the weight of my gear, and
  tried all front, all rear, some front, some rear, etc., until I found a
  combination that was rock solid.  What works for me is 60% of the 
 weight in
  front  40% rear.  For an S240 or a loding tour, I only need 2 bags so 
 they
  both go on the front.  In 

[RBW] FS: Nitto, Sackville, Swift, Edelux, Ortlieb, Dyanamo Wheelset, etc

[John Stowe]

What size is the wheel set? 700c most likely?

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[RBW] Re: Big-big better than small-small?

[John Stowe]

Agreed, good article, and much more thorough than me. I failed to account for 
the reduced force on the chain when it's on bigger rings!

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[RBW] Big-big better than small-small?

[John Stowe]

Are you sure the different feel isn't attributable to the 70 vs 75 
difference? Does the Ram have a gear combo you could test that's closer to 75? 
Are the geometry, rider position, etc. similar enough that it's a fair test?

Pondering in the abstract, though, I'd expect real world differences to be 
practically meaningless outside a racing situation, I can think of two ways 
that different sized, but ratio-equivalent, gear combos could theoretically 
have different amounts of drag. Both have to do with friction and other forces 
in the chain:

On one hand, the smaller gears make the chain bend around a smaller turn, so 
it's conceivable that this additional flex means additional friction. But, the 
jockey wheels on a derailleur are already smaller than all but the smallest 
racing sprockets, so surely this is fairly minor. Also, in general, more 
gradual turns are better for transmitting force, so I could see some losses to 
additional bending forces (tighter turns = more work, even with zero friction, 
just in terms of redirecting the motion).

On the other hand, given the same wheel and crank speed, a larger set of gears 
means the chain is traveling faster (more teeth, same rpm). So the chain has 
more kinetic energy, and the bending/unbending as it goals around the gears 
(and through the derailleur, if there is one) has to happen faster. I'm not an 
expert on friction or fluid dynamics (of chain lube) but dealing with energy 
and speed usually involves a square relationship, so it seems like this COULD 
be the more important factor (once you've taken care of proper lube, straight 
chainline, etc.). Also, in terms of maintenance, especially for 
tourers/commuters, you're putting the chain through more load cycles per ride 
with the bigger rings, so I'd expect the chain to wear out a little sooner. So 
maybe the winning argument is from economic and not energy efficiency?

Food for thought at least.
-J

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[RBW] Re: All Rounder available - help me before it disappears

[John Stowe]

LJ,

You might also check Andrew's new yard sale posting: 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/aPxa-ASFMgQ/OWb-UruVChgJ

He's selling a 61cm longlow-ish frame for $1400, but the saddle height he 
lists is lower than mine, and I also have an 89 PBH. If I were in the 
market now it might be gone already!

-John

On Wednesday, September 3, 2014 9:32:18 AM UTC-4, L. J. Charlton wrote:

 Ken,  I definitely will not drop $3k on this frame.  Like I wrote above 
 that amount buys me a new bike.  My take-away from some of the comments 
 above was that I could manage a 59cm given my 89 PBH.  Thanks for the 
 repost of the custom build.  It is tempting but also a half cm smaller.  
 Patience is a virtue, I guess...  Maybe someone else here will offer 
 something.
  
 Larry  


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[RBW] Re: Toddlers, Kids, Urban Transport, and your Riv

[John Stowe]

The PS rack is great. I wondered if maybe I'd want a basket on it, but 
when I get beyond the carrying capacity of my regular bag often I've got 
something that wouldn't fit well in a basket: https://flic.kr/p/dYHnKS

I suppose getting a trailer would make Costco runs a bit easier, though!
-J

On Sunday, August 24, 2014 8:26:13 PM UTC-4, Jay B wrote:

 Great photo John!  and a very similar setup as mine.  how are you liking 
 the P  S rack in practice?  

 On Saturday, August 23, 2014 3:47:18 PM UTC-5, John Stowe wrote:

 The Bobike setup looks familiar Jay, right down to the SON hub and BM IQ 
 CYO headlight and brown tires! We're a few months behind you, so 
 unfortunately not much advice to offer on the next step. I have Bosco 
 Bullmoose bars which come out a bit higher than yours, and I'm able to 
 (just) swing my foot over the top tube with my butt on the saddle, so I'm 
 hoping I'll be OK with a rear seat. Otherwise, yeah, I've had the same 
 thought as you about a Cheviot instead. Trying to avoid a trailer in the 
 city - bulky and less maneuverable. Plus everything needs to fit in the 
 elevator up to our 5th floor apartment. If we lived in a rowhouse, or if 
 there were a bike room on the ground floor, we'd probably have a box bike 
 for around-town use.

 https://flic.kr/p/okoA1R

 Looking forward to others' suggestions/stories, though!

 John
 Washington, DC



 On Saturday, August 23, 2014 3:24:27 PM UTC-4, Jay B wrote:

 Here's a picture 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/jayburkhalter/14988353316/ of our 
 current setup, and a link 
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/84370349904/here-is-what-weve-been-referring-to-as-the
  
 to Keven's Cheviot from the Blug

 -Jay B.



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[RBW] Re: What are the worst shoes you rode in that turned out working great!

[John Stowe]

I have trouble with my Chacos, too, but for a different reason: the soles are 
so much thicker than my other shoes that my pedal stroke is affected. I'm too 
lazy to raise and then lower my saddle 1/4 every time. They're still my go-to 
choice on warm rainy days, though, much easier than trying to keep sneakers or 
dress shoes dry.

-John

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[RBW] Re: What are the worst shoes you rode in that turned out working great!

[John Stowe]

My sneaker pedals work great with everything except bare feet. 
Leather-soled shoes aren't too great either, but it's doable. At some point 
I'd like to try the flat pedals + skateboard grip tape solution mentioned 
by someone in this group a while back, to see if it helps with those two 
(leather soles being more common for me).

Oh, and flip-flops are horrible for riding a bike much faster than walking 
pace. That's how I know about the barefoot scenario. Feet sliding around 
all over the place.

-John


On Saturday, August 23, 2014 10:53:24 AM UTC-4, Johan Larsson wrote:

 In summer I usually wear crocs. Great on platform pedals, worthless on 
 pedals with a cage.

 Johan,
 Sweden

 On Friday, August 22, 2014 6:44:24 AM UTC+2, lungimsam wrote:

 A lot of you Riv riders use regular shoes for riding.

 Have any stories about a time you got stuck at an event with a horrendous 
 set (street or otherwise), due to circumstances, but they turned out 
 working great anyway (or you made them work)?
 I remember once Manny posted pics of his laceless Vans he rode on a 200k, 
 I think it was. That must have been quite an experience.



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[RBW] Re: Toddlers, Kids, Urban Transport, and your Riv

[John Stowe]

The Bobike setup looks familiar Jay, right down to the SON hub and BM IQ 
CYO headlight and brown tires! We're a few months behind you, so 
unfortunately not much advice to offer on the next step. I have Bosco 
Bullmoose bars which come out a bit higher than yours, and I'm able to 
(just) swing my foot over the top tube with my butt on the saddle, so I'm 
hoping I'll be OK with a rear seat. Otherwise, yeah, I've had the same 
thought as you about a Cheviot instead. Trying to avoid a trailer in the 
city - bulky and less maneuverable. Plus everything needs to fit in the 
elevator up to our 5th floor apartment. If we lived in a rowhouse, or if 
there were a bike room on the ground floor, we'd probably have a box bike 
for around-town use.

https://flic.kr/p/okoA1R

Looking forward to others' suggestions/stories, though!

John
Washington, DC



On Saturday, August 23, 2014 3:24:27 PM UTC-4, Jay B wrote:

 Here's a picture 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/jayburkhalter/14988353316/ of our current 
 setup, and a link 
 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/84370349904/here-is-what-weve-been-referring-to-as-the
  
 to Keven's Cheviot from the Blug

 -Jay B.


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[RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[John Stowe]

I have a Shimano FD built to the same design, and it seems to have 
identical lever arm lengths for the top- and bottom-pull configurations, so 
the amount of cable pull required *should* be the same. Can you be more 
specific about the trouble you're having? I took that one off my Sam 
Hillborne because it wasn't shifting well, especially into the small 
chainring - my new road derailleur that looks like the IRD works great, 
though. If your problem is similar, then hopefully the fix will be as well.

-John


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:56:53 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Well Grant would probably not approve of the amount of seat post showing, 
 but, it seems to work pretty good for me, and I am comfortable riding it. 
  Maybe would like a tad more elevation to the stem, but in practice riding 
 it around I don't notice.

 https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/8p64BN/

 The question I have is, is that FD going to work for me?  I am thinking 
 no, because the loop around the post halves the amount of cable pull 
 available to the front shifter.  I can't get it to move nearly as much as I 
 need.  The specs said top pull or bottom pull, but really, I think it would 
 be better with top pull.  Too bad.  I bought a used IRD Alpina the other 
 day, I'm going to use that on the Rivendell and try the FD on the Rivendell 
 on my Soma GR.
 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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Re: [RBW] Are you in need of a bolt tuning?

[John Stowe]

Make sure you only charge up all your techno-gadgets as much as you'll need 
them for each ride. E=MC^2 so all that extra battery charge is just dead 
weight!

-John

On Friday, August 8, 2014 11:22:05 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 That combined with filling your inner-tubes with helium will really get 
 you somewhere fast!

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Fri, Aug 8, 2014 at 7:52 PM, Goshen Peter uscpet...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 But you could save a whole 150grams!
 On Aug 8, 2014 10:50 PM, Curtis McKenzie cmc...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Do you really need those heavy steel bolts?  Reduce your bike weight 
 with a good old fashion bolt tuning. 


 http://faqload.com/faqs/bicycle-components/bolt-tuning-replacing-heavy-steel-bolts-with-titanium-aluminum-and-carbon-fiber



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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Soba Handlebars

[John Stowe]

I have some I'm not using, but they're 46cm. PM if you're interested.

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[RBW] Re: Bike locks ?

[John Stowe]

I consider the locking skewers a bonus and still try to lock both wheels to 
a solid object if possible. Since I carry two real locks, it's possible 
95% of the time to do this, as well as locking the frame twice. Anything 
that tells a thief at a glance that there are easier targets.

On Saturday, August 9, 2014 11:10:35 AM UTC-4, Dave wrote:

 For those that use pitlocks and a ulock: necessary to run the lock through 
 frame and wheel, or just frame?

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[RBW] Re: Bike locks ?

[John Stowe]

I've been riding in the DC area since 2006 and on the Hillborne since 2012 
- so far I've not had a bike stolen (said while knocking furiously on my 
wooden desk), though both of my bikes have had their frames replaced for 
other reasons. It certainly helps that I've been able to park indoors at 
home and work, so my bikes don't spend much time outdoors when I'm not 
riding them. Like I'm sure other RBW owners have experienced, I'm often 
asked how old is your bike?, so the apparent out-of-date-ness might be an 
advantage, too.

My wife's shiny red road bike was stolen, though, during church on a Sunday 
morning. The security camera showed the thief breaking through her 
lower-end Kryptonite lock in under 30 seconds with some big bolt cutters. 
Hence the high-quality chain that now lives on that rack and gets used, er, 
religiously.

On Friday, August 8, 2014 1:10:03 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 @John Stowe,


 You lock your Hillborne up on DC streets?
 I don't live in DC, but would be nervous doing that. How's the track 
 record been?

 ps- pm me if you want to do a matching Hillborne ride sometime. I live 
 near Columbia, MD. 


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[RBW] Re: Bike locks ?

[John Stowe]

I live and ride around Washington, DC. My current standard carry is a 
hefty U lock (OnGuard, the shorter version) and a folding lock (Abus 
Bordo). Also locking skewers and a cable permanently attaching the saddle 
to the frame. I can park indoors at home and office; at church, the one 
place I park outside regularly (opportunity for thieves to scout and 
return), I keep a big chain locked to the rack - my brother, wife and I all 
have keys for it so we can each use it when we're there. 

Also, I ride my boring-looking (but still fairly nice) black aluminum Trek, 
with essentially the same lock strategy, if I'm going somewhere where I or 
my shiny Sam Hillborne might draw unwanted attention.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BB2IXcFKCrw/U-Q8ASEHodI/Bg8/s2BqzkZdtoE/s1600/Photo%2BAug%2B07%2C%2B7%2B20%2B38%2BPM.jpg
 
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-anvKLsAzavI/U-Q7mjEaqoI/Bgs/rdWB8EkBT-k/s1600/Photo%2BAug%2B07%2C%2B7%2B20%2B05%2BPM.jpg
 



On Thursday, August 7, 2014 6:34:48 PM UTC-4, Serial Griller wrote:

 I normally do my ride and lock my bike in the rack on my truck since I 
 seldom ride from home.( I live in the boon docks)
 What kind of lock set ups are popular with all of you.
 Thanks,
 Jon


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[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[John Stowe]

58cm Sam Hillborne: 41 lb including pump and tool bag which are always on 
the bike; normally I ride with 5.9 lb. of locks and some water as well, so 
call it 48 lb. Then add my laptop bag with everyday carrying-around stuff, 
so call it 55 lb. for a regular commute. Then stuff the same bag with 
diapers, wipes and baby snacks, and 5 lb. of baby seat, and 27+++ lb. of 
baby, and you're up in the 90 lb. range. Oh wait, we stopped for groceries, a 
gallon of milk weighs 8.7 lb 
http://www.airspacemag.com/military-aviation/above-amp-beyond-milk-run-17501799/?all...
 
are we still counting grams on the bike?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O-ILsEAwl3c/U-I2cRhFQmI/Bf8/Qk6ICnIKEDs/s1600/14380834300_b3047796cf_o+%281%29.jpg
Yep, the Sam Hillborne is a do everything bike!

Mostly complete build list:
58cm Sam Hillborne (DTT), stock headset, seatpost, bottom bracket
Wheels: SON and WI hubs, Dyad rims, Schwalbe Delta Cruiser 700cx35
Drivetrain: Sneaker pedals, Sugino triple 175mm, Shimano 9sp 
chain/cassette, Shimano something road triple FD, Deore LX RapidRise RD
Brakes: Tektro R559
Cockpit: Bosco Bullmoose bars, Miesha's grips, Shimano MTB levers and 
bar-end shifters, bracket for the baby seat
Saddle: Brooks B17 Natural
Racks: Pass  Stow front, Tubus Cosmo rear (with some bungies/straps living 
on them, just in case)
Lights: BM IQ CYO front, Toplight Line Brake rear, Planet Bike Superflash 
for backup/extra viz. in the rear
Fenders: VO stainless steel 45mm, Sackville mudflaps (missing one at the 
moment, so add a few oz. I guess)
Kickstand: Pletscher twin-legger (tossed the rubber feet a few days ago, 
because the legs had punched through the bottom)
Topeak frame pump, Acorn tool roll with assorted tools, Carradice Bike 
Bureau



On Sunday, August 3, 2014 4:04:20 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Since there has been curiosity about peoples' complete bikes' and/or 
 frames' weights, I figured it would be fun to reveal how much our Rivbikes 
 weigh.
  
 Would be informative to know:
 1. Model
 2. Framesize
 3. Weight of complete build, or your frameset. 
 (Including fenders/bottlecages/racks/lights/bells is ok since 
 dismantle-ization would be unfair to expect of a complete build. But no 
 bags/bottles on board, please).
 4. Build list, if you feel up to all that typing. Would be fun to see what 
 everyone is hanging on their Rivs anyway. But that is a lot to ask and not 
 expected.
  
 I would start, but I have to go home and weight the bikes first.
 So I will try to report back soon with my Sam and Bleriot weights.
  
 And if you guys feel strongly about this being inappropriate for 
 Riv-culture, please delete the thread, but don't run me outta the forum on 
 a rail. This is all intended in good fun and info-purposes.
  


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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

[John Stowe]

Yes, dynamo wire, using clear racer/helicopter tape 
http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU 
- the most secure and unobtrusive way I've found.

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 6:53:13 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Oh yeah, and was that the dynamo wire you were taping to the frame right 
 at the start?


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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

[John Stowe]

I suppose I should clarify that I did pay for the new frame - but full 
price, which they certainly could have asked for, since as you say, I 
wasn't the customer (though several parts did come from them, most visibly 
the Bosco Bullmoose's). Wouldn't want to set up anyone else to expect (or 
demand) free stuff, especially since every situation is different.

I told Keven I was curious, so hopefully he'll let me know what they find 
out about the problem. My uneducated guess would have been that something 
wasn't right with the brazing process, wrong temperature or some such 
thing, except it looks like the crack is in the tube and not actually 
inside the joint - of course that could also be a side effect of my riding 
on it loose, when the problem started elsewhere.


On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:14:34 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:


 Wow! That's what I call amazing customer service - and you weren't even 
 the customer!
 Compliments to RBW for going above and beyond. That goes a long way in 
 goodwill, I'd say.

 I look forward to a Blug post about this frame and how they figure it 
 happened.


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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

[John Stowe]

My riding buddy has 6 pounds to go before he's officially too big, but 
the foot rests are starting to feel a bit short. Funny, you'd think a Dutch 
baby seat would allow for long legs. He's almost tall enough for his first 
balance bike - non-Riv, unless that's what the Clem Smith turns out to be!

5th floor apartment means no tagalongs, trailers or other things that won't 
fit in the elevator Probably just as well, considering the amount of 
riding we do in city traffic.

-John

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:53:17 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Glad your story had such a happy ending, although it seems to have been a 
 big disruption.  

 Sometimes I get on my 2006 Rambouillet, after I haven't ridden it for 
 awhile,  and it feels like a new bike day; and after all the work you did I 
 definitely recommend luxuriating in a new bike experience.

 BTW, it looks like your ridding buddy is getting too big for his ride, but 
 probably not quite big enough for a tag along.

 Michael

 On Monday, July 21, 2014 4:24:43 PM UTC-4, John Stowe wrote:

 Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
 our Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
 approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
 snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
 frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
 suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
 top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
 maintenance, but frame issues are definitely above my pay grade - 
 assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
 home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

 I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water 
 and then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and 
 showed me that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint 
 between the lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or 
 took to develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park 
 it, and opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I 
 looked at much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it 
 cleaned up, I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little tab on the 
 right is bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if 
 it was a paint chip or metal).


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/Bcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg
 I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to 
 me (I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so 
 saving a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I 
 figured I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
 repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
 to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
 for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
 baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
 low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
 stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
 adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
 Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
 lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

 Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for 
 a new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better 
 fit for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 
 58cm is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a 
 week, and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked 
 frame back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being 
 ever-so-slightly longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a 
 lot quicker than the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro 
 (sadly, having such things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy 
 drivers around) on the ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks 
 like when I'm working on my bikes:

 http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

 It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
 going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
 non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

 My question for the group is: did I get a second new bike day, or just 
 a fixed bike day? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
 and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
 which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
 Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
 summer (This picture also

[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

[John Stowe]

My riding buddy has 6 pounds to go before he's officially too big, but 
the foot rests are starting to feel a bit short. Funny, you'd think a Dutch 
baby seat would allow for long legs. He's almost tall enough for his first 
balance bike - non-Riv, unless that's what the Clem Smith turns out to be! 

5th floor apartment means no tagalongs, trailers or other things that won't 
fit in the elevator

-John

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:53:17 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Glad your story had such a happy ending, although it seems to have been a 
 big disruption.  

 Sometimes I get on my 2006 Rambouillet, after I haven't ridden it for 
 awhile,  and it feels like a new bike day; and after all the work you did I 
 definitely recommend luxuriating in a new bike experience.

 BTW, it looks like your ridding buddy is getting too big for his ride, but 
 probably not quite big enough for a tag along.

 Michael




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[RBW] Re: Anyone using this iPhone mount on their Rivendell's quill stem?

[John Stowe]

Bosco Bullmoose, small bands:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G8Lal0CayzI/U85QMO2j73I/BdE/5wUs8RLt1B4/s1600/Photo+Jul+22%2C+7+44+08+AM.jpg

Threadless stem, large bands:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vgIjAg65go4/U85QVmtcv2I/BdM/pCsOVWgVWJI/s1600/Photo+Jul+22%2C+7+44+20+AM.jpg

Nitto quill stem (but not on a bike), small bands:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CW-WMU5HF5A/U85QdM8pj0I/BdU/hq3T69qiFc4/s1600/Photo+Jul+22%2C+7+46+05+AM.jpg

The two sizes of rubber bands give you a pretty wide range. It feels just 
as secure on all three, though the quill stem came from the parts bin so I 
haven't road-tested it. There is rubber grippy stuff on the underside of 
the mount, so if you do end up trying to mount it somewhere outside the 
range of the bands, zip ties are also an option.

I've only had it for a couple of weeks, but so far I'm pretty happy with 
the setup. The quick release works nicely, and the phone feels nice and 
secure when it's in place. The case is pretty darn slim, as well, better 
than I expected. Yes, there's still a wart on the bike, which I'm not 
thrilled about (less of an issue on the modern looking road bike), but 
it's less conspicuous than the other options out there.


On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 1:20:55 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Says the mount fits stem tubes 25-44mm wide.
 Nitto quills are 20. Was wondering if they actually fit the narrower 
 Nittos. Thanks.

 http://www.quadlockcase.com/products/quad-lock-bar-mount-pro


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[RBW] Re: Anyone using this iPhone mount on their Rivendell's quill stem?

[John Stowe]

The range of sizes they list appears to relate to the curvature of the bar 
mount. It definitely seems to have the biggest contact area on the thicker 
threadless stem. In practice, though, it's grippy enough under tension from 
the bands that it's not a problem.

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 8:02:18 AM UTC-4, John Stowe wrote:

 Bosco Bullmoose, small bands:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G8Lal0CayzI/U85QMO2j73I/BdE/5wUs8RLt1B4/s1600/Photo+Jul+22%2C+7+44+08+AM.jpg

 Threadless stem, large bands:


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vgIjAg65go4/U85QVmtcv2I/BdM/pCsOVWgVWJI/s1600/Photo+Jul+22%2C+7+44+20+AM.jpg

 Nitto quill stem (but not on a bike), small bands:


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CW-WMU5HF5A/U85QdM8pj0I/BdU/hq3T69qiFc4/s1600/Photo+Jul+22%2C+7+46+05+AM.jpg

 The two sizes of rubber bands give you a pretty wide range. It feels just 
 as secure on all three, though the quill stem came from the parts bin so I 
 haven't road-tested it. There is rubber grippy stuff on the underside of 
 the mount, so if you do end up trying to mount it somewhere outside the 
 range of the bands, zip ties are also an option.

 I've only had it for a couple of weeks, but so far I'm pretty happy with 
 the setup. The quick release works nicely, and the phone feels nice and 
 secure when it's in place. The case is pretty darn slim, as well, better 
 than I expected. Yes, there's still a wart on the bike, which I'm not 
 thrilled about (less of an issue on the modern looking road bike), but 
 it's less conspicuous than the other options out there.


 On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 1:20:55 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Says the mount fits stem tubes 25-44mm wide.
 Nitto quills are 20. Was wondering if they actually fit the narrower 
 Nittos. Thanks.

 http://www.quadlockcase.com/products/quad-lock-bar-mount-pro



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[RBW] Re: I love 11-34!

[John Stowe]

Glad indeed. My 11-32 keeps me in the big chainring (48) of my Sugino 
triple nearly all the time when it's just me and a laptop on my Sam - but 
it's a different story with my son and/or shopping on board. Finally busted 
out the lowest lowest gear a coupla weekends ago: 26x32 to get the kid up a 
hill. Later investigation with a map revealed that it was the 15% grade in 
the middle that finally killed our momentum. Ouch! 

Going down was fun, though: my son only knows a few words, but bike and 
whee were among the first, and still very popular!


On Monday, July 21, 2014 11:03:39 AM UTC-4, Marc Irwin wrote:

 I built my Hillborne with a 36x12 and 46x30 up front.  You don't use the 
 30t chainring often, but boy am I glad to have it.

 Marc

 On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:04:00 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Installed a HG50 9 speed 11-34 last week on my Riv along with a new Deore 
 M-591 SGS rear derailer and a new KMC chain.  I have been extremely pleased 
 with this setup so far.  I'm just wondering why I waited so long to make 
 the change.

 One thing I didn't expect is that it allows me to ride in the big ring a 
 lot more because the number of teeth jump up much faster than on a cassette 
 with closer spaced gears, it seems.  I don't mind the gears spacing further 
 apart either, I have usually tended to make 2 and 3 gear shifts at a time 
 anyway.  With this cassette, I don't have to.

 I have not had to use the granny once since getting this setup.  I'm 
 almost 1:1 in the middle ring now at 36-34.  Good stuff.

 Although now I am thinking I might like to try this bike setup as a 
 wide-low double.  Decisions, decisions.  ;)

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 



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[RBW] Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

[John Stowe]

Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
our Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
maintenance, but frame issues are definitely above my pay grade - 
assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water and 
then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and showed me 
that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint between the 
lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or took to 
develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park it, and 
opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I looked at 
much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it cleaned up, 
I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little tab on the right is 
bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if it was a 
paint chip or metal).

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/Bcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg
I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to me 
(I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so saving 
a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I figured 
I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for a 
new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better fit 
for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 58cm 
is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a week, 
and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked frame 
back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being ever-so-slightly 
longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a lot quicker than 
the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro (sadly, having such 
things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy drivers around) on the 
ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks like when I'm working on 
my bikes:

http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

My question for the group is: did I get a second new bike day, or just a 
fixed bike day? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
summer (This picture also should answer the question: what good are those 
giant Bosco Bullmoose bars, really? Getting around babies with giant heads, 
of course!):

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SzummpC179E/U81uEahzALI/Bcw/PYE4LnUrm0w/s1600/IMG_2496.jpg
Two thoughts on shifting since moving to the new frame: 

1. I had a bear of a time getting the front derailleur to shift properly 
when I swapped frames, especially into the smallest chainring (of a Sugino 
triple). I was using what I think is the same low-profile Shimano MTB 
derailleur that Riv sells, but I just couldn't get it to move in far 
enough, and anyway, when I mounted it as low/close as Shimano recommends, 
shifting to the big/big combination (48/32) would make the chain rub on the 
lever arm where the cable attaches - this must not be an issue on bikes 
with steeper seat tubes, because otherwise it seems like a silly fault to 
make it through the design process. I couldn't say for certain since I had 
already removed everything from the other frame and hardly ever need the 
small chainring anyway, but I vaguely recalled having the same trouble on 
the 

[RBW] Re: One reason I love my Sam Hillborne

[John Stowe]

I also use Strava (why does that feel like a confession?), but more because 
I find it interesting to look back at my mileage - the only social thing 
I've done on the site is join the OCCUPYSTRAVA 
http://www.strava.com/clubs/occupystrava group, which was started as a 
reaction to Strava's heat map http://labs.strava.com/heatmap showing 
fitness and training routes much more clearly than common transportation 
routes. I'm really hoping that the odd subset of bike traffic data doesn't 
get misused as the definitive guide to where folks ride. I'm doing a 
capstone project for my master's degree in urban planning that may help 
point to just how much traffic Strava might be missing (still with major 
caveats, of course).

I can't say I've tracked my performance as closely as you, but the move 
from my former aluminum CX bike to my Sam worked out about the same: maybe 
a minute or two over the course of my relatively flat 45 minute commute, 
even though the Sam weighs 10 pounds more. The big difference I notice is 
the much greater wind exposure when I'm sitting up behind the Sam's Bosco 
Bullmoose bars, but hunkering down in the flat part helps some - and of 
course it's an advantage in a tailwind! At this point I ride the Sam for 
99% of my riding, since it's so much nicer to ride. Of course, I did build 
it to do what I need: front and rear racks (for some reason mine is the 
only bike I ever see parked at Costco), dynamo lights, Bosco Bullmoose bars 
to get around the baby seat and let me ride in a suit, and of course the 
great ride and great looks. The CX bike only really comes out when the Sam 
is out of commission, or if I'm headed to an unknown/potentially sketchy 
part of town (Washington, DC) where the Sam would stand out as a theft 
target, or in the winter when it gets studded tires and becomes the snow 
bike (in DC, only a few really bad days each winter).

Yay for the Sam, and yay for Riv helping me with an un-warranty issue 
even though I wasn't the original owner! (a story for another day)
-J


On Friday, June 27, 2014 12:04:11 AM UTC-4, Paul Y wrote:

 I am probably more of a Strava user than most of you on the board. There 
 is a big wannabe-racer character in me. That said, almost 2 years ago I 
 sold my 23mm road bike and the Sam Hillborne became my only roadish bike.

 Most of my rides get logged on Strava so I generally know where I am 
 performance-wise. This morning I put a really hard effort 
 http://www.strava.com/activities/158623274 in on the local road climb 
 with the Hillborne. It's roughly a 43 minute climb for me. I came roughly 
 1:15 slower than my personal record 
 http://www.strava.com/activities/23765457#3643957048, which I had made 
 on a modern road racer clipped in, clad in spandex, heart rate monitor et 
 al. That's about *3%* slower riding in a t-shirt, casual shorts, 
 sneakers, equipped with dyno lighting, kickstand and Sackville bar bag. No 
 doubt the Hillborne is a beast compared to the sub 9kg road bike 
 http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2007brand=Feltmodel=F55
  
 I sold. It offers comfort of another caliber of course - but that's another 
 story. 

 *3% slower up a 700m climb, riding both bikes at fast-as-possible effort.* I 
 think that's a remarkably small penalty to be on such a stately machine!

 I really, really love my Rivendell.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Which bike gets the winter tires?

[John Stowe]

This is exactly what I encountered yesterday, Steve: Clear trails, except 
for pitted, rutted ice on the bridges by DCA. I made it through on my Sam 
Hillborne's 35mm Delta Cruisers, but it was pretty sketchy in the morning 
and required a bit of care and skill. By the time I returned in the evening 
there were clear paths melted through. When those spots under the bridges 
get black ice, they can be treacherous - just ask my wife, who was a very 
good sport the first time she rode to my place when we were dating!

My normal snow solution has been to use the aluminum CX bike (Trek XO1) 
that was my exclusive commuter, pre-Sam, with studded Kenda Klondikes 
(700x35). My theory was the opposite of NickBull's: because the roads clear 
up so fast, I got tires without spikes right down the middle, but the two 
rows do come into play right away as soon as the road or the bike tips a 
bit. They're still quite noisy on the asphalt. I haven't slipped on smooth 
ice with the Klondikes, just loose slippery snow and the occasional 
awkwardly frozen rut/footprint. When I'm on a trail and everything's 
covered in snow I ride just off to the side where there aren't any 
footprints. 

After I got my Sam Hillborne last year, I barely rode my Trek all winter 
unless I really needed the studs - having my Sam's dynamo lighting in the 
dark winter nights (I'm often riding from Alexandria to DC after 10pm, and 
had a 3am a couple of weeks ago) overrode any concerns about riding steel 
in the snow and salt. Unless Santa brings a dynamo hub for the Trek, It'll 
likely stay that way.

-John
(Capitol Hill)


On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 2:15:36 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 12/11/2013 01:51 PM, NickBull wrote: 
  Because what happens on the DC area bike paths (none of which are 
  plowed to my knowledge) is that during the day, the snow partially 
  melts, people ride on it sliding all over and leave ruts that veer 
  every which way (not to mention all the walkers with their 
  footprints).  Then overnight everything refreezes and those ruts are 
  like little icy Grand Canyons.  If your tires don't have enough studs 
  sticking out to the sides to catch on the sidewalls of the ruts then 
  they won't be able to climb out of the rut.  So then the tire has no 
  choice but to slide sideways down the rut while meanwhile your 
  momentum continues forward, making it hard to avoid going down. 

 Excellent description, lacking only one point: after the first couple of 
 days, the snow on the trails melts entirely in many places, leaving only 
 splotches of rutted ice except for areas always in shade or at bridges  
 overpasses.   In those areas -- for example, on the Mount Vernon trail 
 headed into DC, you can expect to find ice on the two overpasses at 
 National Airport and under the bridges crossing the Potomac into the 
 District -- the rutted ice can sometimes linger for a week or two.   
 Those areas all together may add up to one, or perhaps two tenths of a 
 mile on an 8 mile trip from Alexandria into the District. 





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Re: [RBW] Re: 14 Sep - DC Area Atlantis Ride

[John Stowe]

I was hoping to join on my Sam but ended up on baby duty. Another few months 
and he can ride along!

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[RBW] Re: Will a Carradice Bike Bureau accommodate a 17 laptop?

[John Stowe]

It's been a busy weekend for my tape measure!

Their sewing pattern for the laptop sleeve seems to be (roughly) 10.5 x 
14.5 x 1.5, but there's some give in the material and the soft sides also 
allow for some trading off of dimensions (thickness for width, etc.).

Also, just found this:
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/nNprXMkEIU4/y2AqEg43alwJ
:)

-John

On Sunday, August 25, 2013 10:53:44 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I owned one once and seem to remember that it will, but I sold it an now, 
 inevitably, am in the market again. Someone offered me a good deal on one, 
 and the only question remaining is, will it fit my 17 MacBook Pro?

 Thanks.

 Patrick probably answered this question myself a couple of years ago, but 
 forgot the answer Moore

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 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 patric...@resumespecialties.com javascript:
 http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/

 Albuquerque, NM
  

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[RBW] Re: Fender/Tire Clearance w/ the Pass and Stow front Rack?

[John Stowe]

As best i can measure, the P/S rack on my Sam has 15 of clearance from the 
center of the wheel. 3/4 of this is due to the eyelet being above the axle.

-John

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[RBW] Laptop carriage

[John Stowe]

*bike commuting hat*
Nothing to add, since I use a Bike Bureau and you know what that's like 
already. 

*IT guy hat*
I wouldn't be too worried about doing a SSD swap just because you're commuting 
by bike. When the drive is powered down the read/write heads are parked away 
from the platters, so damage from road vibration is very unlikely, especially 
with the light suspension of the bag, padding, etc. As long as you don't make a 
habit of slamming the laptop onto your desk when you arrive, you should be just 
fine.

The drive is in much more danger when it's in use - a jostle at the wrong 
moment (especially along the axis the platters spin on) could make the heads 
crash into the platters. If for some reason you needed to use your laptop while 
riding, then a switch to SSD would be a Really Good Idea.

-John

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for Saddle Bag--mostly for books

[John Stowe]

If you decide go the pannier route: I got a Carradice Bike Bureau for grad 
school, which I'm very happy with. It swaps easily between my Sam Hillborne 
and my cyclocross bike. My only complaint is with the slightly fiddly 
locking mechanism on the Carradice hooks - I replaced them with Ortlieb QL1 
and now it's dead simple to just snatch up the bag and head inside, and 
drop it back on the rack after class.

Of course, piling on a front rack works, too:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/edith_john_stowe/8433986241/

-John

On Friday, August 23, 2013 3:49:36 AM UTC-4, Matt Beebe wrote:

 I'd recommend the Saddlesack Large for books.I own both the Carradice 
 Nelson and Camper and they are great bags, but for books, the Saddlesack 
 bags with a rack are the way to go hands down.They so easy to use and 
 so spacious, they make carrying stuff on your bike a no-brainer.

 Matt


 On Thursday, August 22, 2013 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Tom Goodmann wrote:

 With a school year just about underway, I'm late to ask; looking for 
 recommendations for a saddle bag--likely more flat than square--for 
 ferrying books  a notebook pc on a Sam or a Heron Touring.  Each has a 
 rear rack too, so panniers are another way to go, of course, but my first 
 thought is for a saddle bag-style sort of brief case (behind a B-17, yup). 
 Suggestions appreciated.  --Tom in Miami



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Re: [RBW] Re: Bullmoose Boscos Miniumum Insertion

[John Stowe]

*getting out calipers and a 6mm allen wrench, and a stick for Sam Hillborne 
to bite during the surgery*

I measure 88mm from the MAX HT line to the tops of the diagonal stems. 68mm 
of usable range overall (from the line to slammed down, as the racers 
would say). If it were a regular quill stem it would measure as a 90 degree 
bend, 12cm extension.

The main bar is a constant 22.2mm all the way across, so Riv's interrupter 
levers, with 24mm clamps, wouldn't work without some sort of shim. Stems 
are 19.2mm, if anyone cares.

-John in DC


On Thursday, July 11, 2013 6:38:56 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 Erm yeah that might come in handy if I owned a set or could find some 
 clear pictures online, which I cant, unfortunately. I don't know if I could 
 use them anyway I like my interrupter levers and don't know how they would 
 work with the Bullmoose version. 


 On Thu, Jul 11, 2013 at 5:59 PM, Michael john1...@gmail.com javascript:
  wrote:

 Do you mean MAX bar height? (which I guess is the inverse for minimum 
 insertion).

  
 Maximum bar height is dictated by what is marked on the stem itself by 
 Nitto. Is it marked towards the bottom of the back of the stem?
 You might see it etched in there saying something like MAX HT or 
 something with some hash marks above it.
  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bullmoose Boscos Miniumum Insertion

[John Stowe]

Ah, that would have been good to provide also. Mine have 7 of clamp-able 
space between the welds.

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 10:51:10 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 John, thanks for the measurements, I appreciate it. I personally love to 
 take a wrench to the bombadil, but not sure if it likes it, haha. I am 
 using some bar tape as shims now with the regular bosco bars and 
 interrupter levers. I just don't know if there is enough real estate with 
 the struts there to fit the levers. Contemplation time


 On Thu, Jul 11, 2013 at 10:16 PM, John Stowe stowe...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 *getting out calipers and a 6mm allen wrench, and a stick for Sam 
 Hillborne to bite during the surgery*

 I measure 88mm from the MAX HT line to the tops of the diagonal stems. 
 68mm of usable range overall (from the line to slammed down, as the 
 racers would say). If it were a regular quill stem it would measure as a 90 
 degree bend, 12cm extension.

 The main bar is a constant 22.2mm all the way across, so Riv's 
 interrupter levers, with 24mm clamps, wouldn't work without some sort of 
 shim. Stems are 19.2mm, if anyone cares.

 -John in DC


 On Thursday, July 11, 2013 6:38:56 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 Erm yeah that might come in handy if I owned a set or could find some 
 clear pictures online, which I cant, unfortunately. I don't know if I could 
 use them anyway I like my interrupter levers and don't know how they would 
 work with the Bullmoose version. 


 On Thu, Jul 11, 2013 at 5:59 PM, Michael john1...@gmail.com wrote:

 Do you mean MAX bar height? (which I guess is the inverse for minimum 
 insertion).

  
 Maximum bar height is dictated by what is marked on the stem itself 
 by Nitto. Is it marked towards the bottom of the back of the stem?
 You might see it etched in there saying something like MAX HT or 
 something with some hash marks above it.
  

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[RBW] Re: 2 person National Mall Ride Sunday

[John Stowe]

The Summer House or Grotto was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted as part of 
an improvement to the Capitol grounds in the 1880s, after the addition of the 
north and south wings. It was intended as a place for visitors to rest and get 
a drink of water, so you're using it exactly as intended! 

More info here: http://www.aoc.gov/capitol-grounds/summerhouse

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[RBW] Re: Love my new blue Sam

[John Stowe]

I've been experimenting with different hand positions. My inclination in 
moving my hands to the flat section was to prop my elbows on the grips, but 
the extra input on the bars made it pretty hard to hold a straight line. 
Keeping my arms tucked in was fairly efficient and much more stable. Wasn't 
very windy when I tried that one last night, but it seems promising.

On Sunday, December 2, 2012 9:07:08 AM UTC-5, Zack wrote:

 Beautiful bike!

 Great stuff.

 I noticed your comment about Boscos - have you tried riding with your 
 hands on the flat bar?  It is a decent hand position on the bars when is 
 windy.


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[RBW] Re: Love my new blue Sam

[John Stowe]

I like the Acorn for being able to access tools while still attached to the 
bike, and for having zippered pockets to contain small fally-outy things. I 
think that for those reasons I would probably do an XS SaddleSack before 
the Tool Wrap, but I'm not totally sold on either (funny the things we can 
justify to ourselves spending money on, or not - it would certainly be a 
small percentage of the bike's total cost to get both and experiment!).

Mike: Yes, it is a PassStow rack. Took some careful bending of the 
Y-shaped mounting bracket to get it to fit without rubbing on the headset 
and/or brake.

Michael: The tires are Schwalbe Delta Cruisers, 700x35c. Black seemed too 
harsh against the nice blue and cream paint job. Very smooth riding, and 
quite quick. Reflective sidewalls are a huge bonus in the city.

-John

On Saturday, December 1, 2012 8:04:31 PM UTC-5, Mike wrote:

 On Dec 1, 11:38 am, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Keep an eye here and on Ebay for a Mark's Tool Wrap, too. I love mine, 
 and 
  think it a shame Riv stopped making them. 
  Joe Bernard 
  Vallejo, CA. 

 According to the RBW website they still have them in stock. In olive 
 and tan. They do look nice. 

 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/batw.htm 

 --mike 


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[RBW] Love my new blue Sam

[John Stowe]

It's been sitting around in various (slow-moving) stages of completion 
since the summer as parts trickled in, many liberated from members of this 
group. I got pretty busy once the semester got going, but I managed to 
finish off the wheels (and several trips to the hardware store for bolts 
and bits) over the turkey holiday and ride it for ~60 miles this week. 
Enjoying all the qualities that folks here know, and were the reasons to 
upgrade from my cyclocross city bike: smooth, even ride, comfortable 
handling, inquisitive head-turning, and a smile on the rider. And no toe 
overlap (barely) on my size 14s, to boot!

The other huge, major, wonderful upgrade over my previous bikes is the 
dynamo lighting. Such a huge difference when night classes are 12 mi away, 
mostly with no street lights!

One cell phone pic to prove it can carry packages to the UPS store (and 
later cupcakes to home, by request of the spousal unit). More will surely 
follow, once I figure out how to work the new DSLR that appeared on my 
birthday. Mr. Hillborne is likely to be the most patient model I can find 
to practice on.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IIfCCvn6xqk/ULmLqS9P9lI/A6I/VRQs1gwiogE/s1600/IMG_0037.jpg

Coupla tweaks still to be made: 
- the Bosco Bullmoose bars are great for riding around town in a suit, and 
will be fantastic in about a year when a child seat gets added to the 
cockpit area. But I might need to swap them out for drop bars for the 
longer ride to school. The wind along the river chooses to be a friend one 
day and a foe the next. Usually when I'm already running late.
- the wire that came with the taillight, for connecting to the headlight, 
was designed to reach the fork crown, not the front of a rack, so for the 
moment it's somewhat inelegantly running along one of the top tubes until I 
rig up a longer one.
- stainless steel fenders are sitting at home waiting to get installed, 
but the stays are way too long to be mountable and my hacksaw wandered off 
to the home of a relative and has yet to return. Also needed for cutting 
the kickstand down to size. Of course, I've never passed up the opportunity 
to get more tools - maybe it's time to add a bolt cutter to the collection!
- still looking for a toolkit to mount on the back of the saddle or 
somewhere else out-of-the-way-but-always-there. I like the idea of Acorn's roll 
bag http://www.acornbags.com/rollbag.html, but they seem to be impossible 
to actually purchase. Maybe someone with a sewing machine will be looking 
for stocking stuffer ideas.

Overall, though, I'm just happy it's ride-able, and that the gamble of 
sinking in all the time, effort and money with no test ride has paid off 
with such a fine machine. And of course finally packing away the workstand 
is good for intra-household relations! I have enjoyed lurking and 
collecting advice on this forum, and the influence definitely shows in the 
final product. Thanks, all!

-John
Washington, DC

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Re: [RBW] Riv Bombadil... Ultimate Hurricane Bike??

[John Stowe]

I might manage to finish off my Sam Hillborne build while we wait it out in 
DC. What's the one piece that hasn't arrived? Fenders, of course!

-J

On Monday, October 29, 2012 4:25:49 PM UTC-4, justin...@gmail.com wrote:


 Shoulda put on those fenders!



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[RBW] Re: Need rut-riding tips...

[John Stowe]

In terms of improving handling skills, you could use something small and 
safe, like sidewalk joints. Just to get a feel for having the bike pulled 
in the wrong direction. Once it gets big enough to really grab your tire 
though, yeah, you're in trouble.

Think if I complain loud enough they'll put that tar down into the new 
streetcar tracks in my neighborhood?

-John Sam-under-construction S.
Washington DC

On Friday, October 5, 2012 11:57:58 AM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:

 You are right to be worried. 
 The advice you've gotten is the best I have, too: Wider Tires, and 
 Avoid them. 
 Try to get them fixed is good, if you have the time.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com



 On Thursday, October 4, 2012 10:29:49 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 Anyone have any tips for mastering riding through ruts? You know, the 
 ones that run the same direction as you are going on the street.
  
 For some reason the roads in my area seem to be developing long cracks 
 and ruts lately. Long separation seams opening between lanes. Ruts on the 
 shoulders. I don't know what is going on. Unless I am just getting 
 sensitive about them.
  
 I am just worried I will get a wheel trapped in one, or the wheel jerked 
 outta line when I am riding. I know the best thing would be to look down 
 the road further and avoid them earlier. But sometimes I find myself unable 
 to as the shoulder narrows down to nothing, and the cars are building up 
 along side me, and the only other alternative is get on the grass, which is 
 even more dangerous terrain for me.



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[RBW] Re: Any Maryland Riv riders here?

[John Stowe]

Building up a blue Sam in DC right now... eventually I'll ride it into MD, 
but my normal orbit takes me into VA more often.

On Saturday, September 1, 2012 9:50:05 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Leisl's post about seeing peeps in her area got me thinking.
  
 I have never seen a  Riv ridden in MD, at least in my neck of the woods, 
 that I know of.
  
 Anyone here ride a Riv in MD?


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