Re: [RBW] Heron Road Seatpost Size?

[Josiah Anderson]

Zac, apologies if you already know this, but you can often tell if the top
of a seat tube has been pinched down, because the sides of the slot won't
be parallel. If it looks like the slot gets narrower towards the top, I'd
try to carefully pry it open and see if a 27.2 post fits, but whether you
want to try that on your Heron probably depends on your comfort level with
gently bending steel.

Josiah Anderson


Le jeu. 23 mai 2024 à 6:19 PM, Zac  a écrit :

> Can anyone confirm the seat post on their Heron Road is 27.2mm?
>
> According to Sheldon Brown's database, all Heron's use a 27.2 post, but
> the one I just tried to install wasn't going in at all. I rode by a shop
> and their calipers gave 26.8-9 for both the seat tube and existing seat
> post.
>
> The bike is fairly new to me, perhaps the seat tube got pinched at the top
> at some point.
>
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Re: [RBW] Is an Atlantis Worth It?

[Josiah Anderson]

Hi Max,

I've done quite a bit of commuting on my Gus Boots-Willsen(s), and although
I haven't ridden an Atlantis, I'd imagine the Gus is even more overkill
than an Atlantis for commuting. I really, really like that bike, so even
though I have others that are theoretically faster on pavement, the Gus is
often what I choose. I'm now almost two years in after getting my first Gus
(which got wrecked by an idiot driver and replaced with another Gus) and I
still stop to look at it when I'm walking past, I like it that much. Same
with my Crust Lightning Bolt that I've had for just over four years now.
That just doesn't happen with my "beater" commuter bikes. People can try to
reason it out all they want but there's something to be said for choosing a
bike by instinct rather than with logic. If it were a very specific
special-purpose bike (e.g. time-trial bike) that you were thinking of, I
could see the argument against it, but there are not many things outside of
racing that it seems like an Atlantis would be bad at. If you want an
Atlantis, I'd say go for it - I don't think you'll regret it. And if you
do, resale value is excellent.

Josiah Anderson
around the PNW somewhere, currently Tacoma


Le mer. 22 mai 2024 à 8:44 AM, max.c@gmail.com 
a écrit :

> First: I realize I am asking this to an entirely biased group of people
> and I'm okay with that!
>
> For years I have casually dreamed of owning an Atlantis. I commute 4 miles
> each way by bike, ditched my car a few years ago, and love riding, but I do
> it pretty casually. I'm not racing or doing endurance rides. I just like
> riding my bike and I do it whenever I can.
>
> I don't need the nicest bike in the world and have been fairly satisfied
> with my 1988 Schwinn Cimarron that I've made a fair approximation of a poor
> man's rivendell (somewhat out of date pic below!). However, I've always had
> the itch to upgrade.
>
> Recently, I received an unexpected influx of cash and want to spend it on
> something fun. I'm wondering: how much will I noticeably appreciate the
> difference an Atlantis would bring if I were to spend the money? I'm
> especially interested in the input from those who have gone from the 80s
> era rigid MTB with swept back bars that approximate a Riv (and Grant's
> ethos from Bridgestone) to the real deal. Was it worth the money? Do you
> think you could have gotten by on that 80s frame?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Max
>
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Re: [RBW] Centerpull vs V-Brakes in terms of maintenance and use

[Josiah Anderson]

I agree both with Bill's "it depends" and Eric's "(some) centerpulls are
spooky weak when wet." That depends on the centerpulls. DC750s, for
example, I would agree are marginal-to-dangerous when wet, which I
attribute to their flexy arms and low mechanical advantage. Mafac Racers
and Raids, however, are the equal of any brake I've used, dry or wet or
icy, *when set up well* and with salmon pads. I have not used René Herse
centerpulls, but since they're basically Raid copies I'd expect them to be
excellent as well, which matches what I've heard about them. V-brakes seem
to have fewer possibilities for variation in performance because they're so
standardized in design and simple to set up, and therefore people don't
experience bad ones as often. Bad v-brakes do exist but they usually come
from Walmart.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le jeu. 25 avr. 2024 à 15:28, Eric Daume  a écrit :

> Bill says “it depends,” but I can only offer my experience, which is that
> both are adequate in the dry, but centerpulls are spooky weak when the rims
> are wet. Centerpulls do look nicer, but in every performance category, V
> brakes are a clear and easy win for me.
>
> Eric
> V brake fan
>
> On Thursday, April 25, 2024, Robert Calton  wrote:
>
>> I'm curious what the differences are between these two types of brakes
>> with regards to their respective maintenance and general use. Is one easier
>> to adjust and keep in good riding order than the other? Does one feel
>> fundamentally different than the other during the ride?
>>
>> I've read that "stopping power" is greater on v-brakes, but is it really
>> *that* much better to hold out for a frame that supports v-brakes? Are
>> there other factors I'm overlooking other than stopping power? I wouldn't
>> run more than 43mm tires and fenders.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Roadbike Curious

[Josiah Anderson]

Hi Leah,

I'm also excited to hear about your journey towards a road bike; you
probably don't know it but your writing on this list was one of my main
influences towards ending up with a Riv. Drop bars and pavement are very
familiar, comfortable territory for me, and – like others have said here –
I still enjoy that type of riding at times.

You're probably already familiar with him, but if not, I'd recommend
checking out some of Jan Heine's work – Bicycle Quarterly, *The All-Road
Bike Revolution,* his blog, etc. Bicycle Quarterly was my point of
departure from "mainstream" bike culture, and I came around to appreciating
Riv a bit later and now enjoy both approaches for different rides. Jan is
much more focused on speed than Grant is, but in what feels to me like a
healthy way. This is an old blog post that I think may be worth a read, as
it's an articulation of the same sort of perspective you seem to be
arriving at: https://www.renehersecycles.com/riding-fast-is-fun/. Jan also
wrote somewhere (can't find it right now) about how he and Grant are good
friends, and he wanted to make it clear he's not dissing Riv by promoting
what he likes.

I currently have two of what I'd call "really nice" bikes, a Gus
Boots-Willsen and a Crust Lightning Bolt (alongside moderately nice bikes
like a Bridgestone MB-3 and a dumpster-find Bianchi Volpe). The Gus is
"full-Riv" – friction shifting, Carradice saddlebag, weird bar wrap, etc –
and the Crust is full Bicycle Quarterly, with 42mm extralight tires,
low-trail geometry, Gilles Berthoud handlebar bag, and all that. (Jan is
not affiliated with Crust, but Crust designed the Lightning Bolt with his
preferences in mind). The two bikes are a perfect combination for my
current riding: there is enough crossover that both work great for
doubletrack rides, and the Gus is ideal for riding singletrack while the
Crust excels at long, fast road and gravel rides. Rivendell doesn't make
randonneur bikes like my Crust, as it sounds to me like they don't like the
lighter-gauge tubing and the handling optimized for drop bars and moderate
front loads, but Grant has written (quoting from memory, so hopefully I'm
pretty close here) that he's glad companies like Crust exist and do
different stuff from Riv. I don't feel like riding my Crust is an insult to
Rivendell, just an expression of the fact that my riding conditions are a
bit different from theirs, though I totally get it if that's how it feels
to you.

I've never ridden a Roadeo or Roadini, but I've ridden a LOT of road race
and "sport-touring" bikes from the 1960s through 2000s, many of which (like
early 80s Trek sport tourers, one of my main rides for a long time) have a
lot of similarities to the Roadeo. I prefer my Crust for several reasons:
it's designed for bigger tires, which when they're René Herse Extralights
are just as fast as 23mm tubulars and far more versatile; it can carry a
big handlebar bag for long rides without compromising handling at all; and
it feels more "alternative" when showing up to group rides, a feeling we're
all used to with Rivendells - but it's still just as fast as the carbon
bikes, unlike my Gus. And the biggest factor is that it's made of
superlight steel tubing, which I like not for the weight savings (less than
a water bottle) but for the flex characteristics – it flexes with each
pedal stroke and feeds it back into the drivetrain, taking away the
pushing-against-a-brick-wall feeling of hammering up a hill on a stiff
bike. Jan calls this "planing," and it's pretty controversial, and others
call it a lively frame, a somewhat less controversial term. My personal
experience says it works – take that however you want. I do not believe the
Roadini would "plane" or be particularly "lively," based on what I've
heard, and the slightly lighter Roadeo might or might not depending on how
much power you're putting down.

A classic road bike like the Roadeo is also an aesthetic choice, though,
not just a practical one, and if that's the sort of bike you want, I don't
want to be the one to argue against that! Those sorts of bikes are very
well-proven for many use cases, and fast-paced, shortish (~30 mile) group
rides are certainly one of those.

Basically what I'm hoping to say here is that "road bike" can mean many
things, and that Jan Heine's writing has been a huge positive influence on
my riding and maybe could be for you too. Best of luck with the process of
contemplation and decision!

Josiah Anderson
Missoula MT

Le sam. 20 avr. 2024 à 13:33, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> a écrit :

> I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell
> roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the
> Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is
> going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great

Re: [RBW] Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

[Josiah Anderson]

I am a big fan of the long chainstays, having had them on two Gus
Boots-Willsens – a first-generation blue one that was lost to an idiot
driver a few months into my time with it, and now a Mermaid one from the
newer batch. It sounds like maybe you don't approve of the long-stay
design, and I'm not sure whether you've ridden one, but I would recommend
finding one to try out if you haven't. Maybe some of your very many
question marks will be turned into exclamation points.

 My Gus rides more smoothly over bumpy surfaces than any other
non-suspension bike I have ridden, and as a tall rider (6'4"), I appreciate
the feeling of fore-aft stability that comes from being more in the middle
of the bike rather than on top of the rear wheel. It also displays superb
handling on snow and ice, which I attribute to the more even weight
distribution as well as the overall length. And for more technical trails
with steep climbing and descending, the long wheelbase feels like cheating:
I can easily spin my way up grades that have my friends on mainstream
mountain bikes falling over backwards. The floating sensation that occurs
when descending fire roads is indescribable – it reminds me of cruising
down the highway in an ancient first-generation New Flyer low floor bus
that I had the pleasure of driving for my job for a little while.

To answer your question more specifically, I think the problem the
long-stay Rivs solve is that there were no bikes that have that distinctive
ride quality, and now there are. Maybe you have to have experienced it to
appreciate it. I was skeptical before I bought my first Gus, but I trusted
Rivendell to build a good bike, and I'm very glad I went for it. I will
also hypothesize that the mainstream mountain bike world will "discover"
long chainstays in three or four more years after they see a few more
people like me easily clean steep climbs where their shred sleds are
ineffective wheelie machines.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le dim. 31 mars 2024 à 11:50, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners
Bunch  a écrit :

> Enjoyed reading the thread "Anyone else not a fan of long chainstays?",
> especially Bill L's explanation of the RBW bike design philosophy.   Seems
> the prevailing thought is long stays are better for
> upright riding
> single track type trails (vs a Rails to Trails type trail)
>
> I'll just note 2 'facts'
> 1  The vast majority of RBW models (except the Roadeo type frame) use
> slack STA and HTA which may contribute to the ride effect when coupled with
> long stays.
> 2.  In the beginning RBW addressed getting the bars higher and adopting a
> non-racer riding style (back at 45° with hands on hoods), which IMHO were
> solutions to actual problems.
>
> *So What problem or current deficiency in bike design is Grant solving by
> using long chain stays*
> Just to bring bikes to market that no one else is building??
> Or do they solve a real problem???
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> FWIW 2 of 3 of my frames have 44 to 45cm chain stays, and 1 has a 43cm
> chain stay.It's hard to notice a ride difference.
>
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Re: [RBW] Sit Bone Width and Saddles

[Josiah Anderson]

Hi Jay,

If you like leather saddles but a B17 is (maybe) too wide, have you tried a
Brooks Professional? The construction is similar but they're about 15mm
narrower than a B17, IIRC. The Idéale 90 and Berthoud Galibier are also
both nice narrower leather saddles. The Pro and 90 are my two favorite
saddles for a "road bike" (less-upright) position.

Josiah


Le mer. 28 févr. 2024 à 5:45 PM, Jay  a écrit :

> I'll preface this by saying I know saddles are highly subjective, and what
> works for one may not work fo you.  What I wanted to ask about is "general
> thinking".  Just wanting to confirm some thoughts I've had about this...
>
> My sit bones are 125mm apart.  I've had them measured a few times.  This
> is when I'm sitting upright.  I believe general rule is the more upright
> you are on the bike, the wider you go with the saddle (e.g., if I'm 90
> degrees/straight up, add a few cm; aero, maybe just one cm).  Any other
> logic to share with respect to sit bones and saddle width?
>
> My saddle is level with tops of my bars (on two of three bikes).  This
> puts me in a comfortable position, maybe 60 degrees when I'm in the hoods.
> All three bikes have drop bars, but only the older road bike has bars below
> the saddle.  My neck and upper back feel great in this position, and I've
> previously had issues in this area, so that's a victory.
>
> I'm still dialing in my Roadini, but for now I have a WTB Silverado on
> there (135 wide).  It's maybe a little narrow, but I've done 2hr rides and
> felt fine (pedalling is not impeded at all, and it's comfortable in the
> nether regions).  Feels like my sit bones are close to the edge but I can
> feel around there and know there is just enough room to spare.  I've had
> that same saddle on another bike and that was also fine.  Not a big fan of
> the edges on that saddle, as it's very flat across and feels like it's
> digging in a bit (a cm further out than my sit bones), but I'm trying to
> sort that out and not really my point with this post (just sharing for
> context).  Reason I went with this 135mm saddle is my previous 147mm
> Prologo felt too wide, and the cut out was digging in the nether regions.
> So I tried something more narrow and I no longer get that discomfort.
>
> I do have a Brooks B17, and I've had one before on an older bike, and a
> few other leather saddles over the years.  What's attracted me to them is
> that I rarely got any friction or chafing, or sit bone pain.  I do set them
> up, nose up, so rear of the saddle is flat and I'm not sliding forward.
>
> However, the B17 is 35mm wider than the WTB, and 45mm wider than my sit
> bones, so I'm wondering if this saddle make sense for me...and anyone else
> with similar 'specs'. I've read/watched reviews where much bigger folks
> love the saddle (some hate it too, but that's maybe about
> leather/hardness).  Some of the reviews are from people who say their sit
> bones are 150+ apart.  That gives them 10mm on either side, vs. my 22.5mm
> per side.  I realize how we sit on the saddle, torso angle, etc., are
> different, but generally speaking...like do skinny people or those with
> somewhat narrow sit bones get along great with this saddle?  If so, is
> there a set up trick for them, that is different than someone with much
> wider sit bones?  I would say my problem with it is pedalling freedom, and
> not feeling impeded by the size of the saddle, the skirt, etc.  I can't say
> for sure that's my problem with it, just giving a theory.
>
> I'll pause there, as I'll likely get some good questions/comments and can
> take it from there.  Thanks!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cantilevers or Direct Mount-Centerpulls

[Josiah Anderson]

I want to jump in here on one of my pet issues: "squishy" brakes are *not*
a problem provided they still stop well, and squish can be indicative of
good braking. If they feel stiff, all that means is that you don't have as
much mechanical advantage as you could, because of design or setup. If more
mechanical advantage is added, the pads and possibly the calipers WILL
squish, no matter what. It will feel "mushy" and there will be more power.
The best brakes I've ever used were v-brakes operated by short-pull levers,
which required very true wheels and felt extremely soft, but provided truly
impressive braking thanks to the high MA at both the lever and brake. That
was the setup that taught me that squishy brakes can be good.

Soft-feeling brakes also often allow for better modulation than a binary
"on-off" brake feeling. In a very stiff-feeling brake system, there is
minimal difference in braking power between just barely engaging the brake
and yanking as hard as you can, because the lever stops moving in a very
defined spot and no amount of force that human hands can apply will move it
farther, so the pads don't grip the rim any harder either. That is the
definition of a "stiff" feel; you can't get around that, only improve it
with more MA (and a softer brake feel). This means that the initial "bite"
needs to be very strong, which is the opposite of what I want from a brake.
I want to have control over exactly how much braking I get, from "very
little" to "STOP RIGHT NOW" and everywhere in between. Good centerpulls
absolutely can provide that, and the "squish" that you may feel is simply
the feeling of good modulation.

However, if the "soft" feeling is from the caliper flexing (like Tektro
559s do), that is not desirable, because the lever travel is just moving
the brake and not the pads. Those brakes have a relatively low MA (and low
usefulness as brakes) because if it were higher they would flex even worse.
Maybe this phenomenon is the root of the misunderstanding; if squishy
long-reach-sidepulls were the only soft-feeling brakes I'd experienced,
then I would probably shoot for stiffness too.

I hope that all makes sense and is helpful.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula MT

On Monday, February 26, 2024 at 4:06:12 PM UTC-5 kyleco...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey Christian thanks for all your thoughts! To answer a couple of your
>> questions:
>>
>> *Which CPs are you considering and what is your max tire size? *
>> I was looking at the Rene Herse cps. I'd be looking to run 44's, but 42's
>> seem to be more intended for the Bleriot
>> <http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr37_pg15.jpg>. The Rene Herse are
>> for sure pricey, and I will be spending a bit as it is with the frame
>> builder mods. However, they state they have the clearance for 42s and
>> fenders. I have a pair of dia-compe canti's
>> <https://analogcycles.com/products/blue-lug-diacompe-dc980-cantilever-brakes>
>> I love on another bicycle, so much so I put a pair on my girlfriend's
>> bicycle. On that note: @Patrick - I've gotten pretty comfy now at setting
>> up canti's with drop bars. Specifically the dia-comps. It's all about
>> getting that straddle wire set up in the right position. I have done it
>> poorly on other pairs of cantis and been called out by real mechanics haha.
>>
>> *Will you be using fenders? *
>> Potentially. I see most of these tours happening in summer and hopefully
>> some that require a flight in the nearish future. I'd probably snag a pair
>> of SKS for easy mounting and peace of mind when flying. not so much of a
>> big deal if my plastic fenders get damaged instead of banging up a nice
>> pair of honjos!
>>
>> *Are you planning on mounting anything to the brake studs (racks, lights
>> etc)?*
>> If I did canti's I would likely get a Nitto M12 and attach it to the
>> brakes. I do plan on having low rider pannier attachments put on for a
>> nitto s rack
>> <https://global.bluelug.com/catalog/product/view/id/31396/s/nitto-s-rack/category/1460/>
>> .
>>
>>
>> Kyle
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 26, 2024 at 12:17 PM christian poppell 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Kyle!
>>>
>>> I have used cantilevers and direct mounted centerpulls (MAFAC RAID with
>>> new Rene Herse hardware). If I could do it over I would have installed
>>> cantilevers. The downsides for centerpulls for me are modulation, fender
>>> fitting, and braze on locations on the fork.
>>>
>>> Modulation - The MAFAC RAID brakes feel more squishy to me, even after
>>> adding a brake booster to the rear. Also, despite my best efforts, I have
>>> not been

Re: [RBW] Schmidt Dyno

[Josiah Anderson]

I think you might be able to get 25 bucks for it; I'd be glad to take it
off your hands for that price to spare you the trouble :)

More seriously, last time I was looking at them (maybe a few years ago now)
SON hubs seemed to mostly be in the $270-300 range. If I were selling a
near-NOS one I might list it for $275 and be ready to accept offers.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula MT

Le lun. 29 janv. 2024 à 13:15, John Dewey  a écrit :

> Y'all, seeking collective wisdom.
>
> What's a new Schmidts K179 6V-3W Dyno hub worth?
>
> I have one 4 sale, it's takeoff with no evidence of wear / tear @ 32 hole.
> Not NOS but might a well be.
>
> Best / Jock
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Low q, low range 2x cranks

[Josiah Anderson]

Uhh... because lower Q works better for some people? That's like asking why
someone wants a longer/shorter stem...

Adam, with the VO cranks (if we're thinking of the same ones) if you can
get a set of arms without rings, TA rings will fit, which are available in
any tooth count down to 26 IIRC. 40/26 is definitely possible with the TA
50.4bcd rings. You could also watch eBay etc for used TA cyclotouriste/pro
5 vis cranks, which is what the VO and SunXCD cranks are copies of.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula MT


Le mer. 10 janv. 2024 à 9:47 AM, Bill Schairer  a
écrit :

> Since you stated you are a bit new to all of this, I am curious as to
> exactly why you are so focused on a lower Q?
>
> Bill S
> San Diego
>
> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 9:26:06 AM UTC-8 Adam wrote:
>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Great ideas already. I have thought about the VO cranks, but want
>> slightly lower gearing if I'm going to the trouble of swapping.
>>
>> For Ron, or anyone else, does swapping the large ring for a bash guard
>> allow for a lower Q? I assumed that would stay the same?
>>
>> I'm going to look at the Alex cycle option, your pic is exactly what I
>> want to do. Is there a clever way to piece something like that together
>> from older stuff on eBay? Guessing it may take knowledge I don't have
>>
>> Adam
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 11:15:31 AM UTC-6 Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>>> adding a ps - another use of your triple crank, there are some virtually
>>> weightless bash guards out there if you want to make it a compact double.
>>>
>>> [image: Rw6vTY9.jpg]
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 10:44:54 AM UTC-6 Ron Mc wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Adam,
>>>> take a look at VO Rando crank.
>>>> If you can find them, Sun XCD makes their 50.8 BCD and chainrings,
>>>> which I'm running on 2 bikes.  .
>>>> I was on SJS Cycles last night looking at rings, and noticed they still
>>>> have some T/A-5 chainrings.
>>>> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 10:15:06 AM UTC-6 Adam wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>> Adjacent to the triples thread, I'm thinking about moving away from a
>>>>> triple to a double in order to get a lower Q.
>>>>>
>>>>> What are options for double cranksets that are around 40/26 or so? I
>>>>> think that would be doable with the Rene Herse cranks, but too much $$$ 
>>>>> for
>>>>> me. Are there any cheaper options that will do that and give me a q in the
>>>>> 140s?
>>>>>
>>>>> Second, drivetrain stuff is a little new to me. What determines how
>>>>> small a q factor a specific bike can have? I'm assuming chainstays play a
>>>>> role here? This hypothetical project is for a Hillborne, so I'd be curious
>>>>> what folks have used to get low q on their Hillbornes. I'm assuming I may
>>>>> have to change the BB as well.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> Adam
>>>>>
>>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Will Cliffhangers leave me hanging?

[Josiah Anderson]

Hi Curtis,

With Cliffhangers (and most other tubeless compatible rims) you generally
need to pinch the beads together so that both sides sit in the well in the
center of the rim before you try to get the last bit of bead onto the rim.
Were you already doing that? I've never had issues with Cliffhangers using
that strategy.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula MT

Le jeu. 28 déc. 2023 à 8:46 AM, Curtis McKenzie  a
écrit :

> Hello,
>
> Looking for some Cliffhanger wisdom.  It seems that I am having a good
> amount of trouble mounting Schwalbe Marathons on my Cliffhangers.  So much
> so that I worry about a tire change in the field, such as the Oregon
> Outback, and been stranded.  I am now carrying a large screwdriver to get
> the leverage  needed to mount the last bit of tire on the rim.  Have not
> pinched more that two tubes in the last fifty years of flat fixing.
> Yesterday, I pinched two and scratched the heck out of the rim.  Not to
> mention bending the cool aluminum CyclePro tire levers that I have had
> since high school.
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Curtis
>
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Re: [RBW] Studs for Winter Riding?

[Josiah Anderson]

I use 700x35 Nokians on my winter commuter. They work pretty well 95% of
the time, but today I was about at the limit – it snowed yesterday, thawed
a bit and rained, cleared off and froze hard, and then dusted snow again,
so we had loose powder on top of a sheet of pure ice. For conditions like
that I have some 26x2.2 Nokian Extremes that seem to be more stud than
tire, and they work spectacularly well on ice (though buzzy as heck on bare
pavement), but I don't have them on a bike right now so I just rode the
regular commuter carefully. Don't bother with any of the cheap Kendas etc
that only have studs on the sides – they say you only need them for
cornering but I've fallen while riding in more or less a straight line on
them multiple times.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le dim. 3 déc. 2023 à 18:34, John Rinker  a écrit :

> Went for a ride in snow today and had a blast! I also slipped around a
> little bit as I tried to follow the packed snow of tire tracks. Got me
> thinking about studded tires. I've never ridden them before and know
> nothing about them.
>
> Do any of you fine folks with more experience in such matters than me have
> any recommendations for studded tires for my Hunq?
>
> Cheers, John
>
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Re: [RBW] Expert level bike commuting strategies?

[Josiah Anderson]

Lots of great advice here already; I will pile on in support of changing it
up as much as possible. I have also been successful in using other modes to
convince myself of how effective bike commuting is. I currently have a 1
mile commute, and for the first little while I would often walk or run, but
I eventually got tired of that and started riding again. Before that, I had
very easy bus access within ~50 feet of my doors on either end, and I used
it frequently, but then I decided it was faster and more fun to ride my
bike so I started doing that again. I even drove for a 6 mile commute a few
times, which ended very quickly because I felt so bad afterwards. So my
advice is to try something else and see how it works; if it's better,
that's great and you've found something to add to the rotation, and if you
don't like it it'll keep you riding.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le jeu. 26 oct. 2023 à 08:26, Michael Morrissey 
a écrit :

> Lately I have been biking to work again, from my home in Queens to work in
> Manhattan. Unfortunately, my commute is less than ideal. There are few bike
> lanes in my neighborhood. I leave at 6:30, when it’s dark and cold outside.
> There are lots of big trucks and fast drivers. It’s hilly. Then, when I get
> to the bike lane section of the ride, it’s crowded with electric bikes,
> deliveristas, and stand-up electric scooters.
>
> My commute is 7.8 miles point to point, and I make it in about 53 minutes.
> I started keeping track of my times on Strava. I like looking at my records
> (eastbound across Central Park in 1:40!) but I feel Strava is mostly a
> record of how long I get stuck at red lights. There are so many stoplights
> that I struggle to raise my average speed over 11 MPH.
>
> I use one Ortlieb bag, and I’ve tried to lighten my load as much as
> possible. Yet, I still feel like I am carrying a lot to work. One thing
> I’ve been doing is rolling my work clothes and putting rubber bands around
> them. That helps with the organization.
>
> I’m riding my Rivendell Appaloosa with a big back rack and fenders.
> Fortunately, even after riding it for about 7 years, the bike still feels
> amazing. I also feel great getting so much exercise, and I find I feel I
> have more energy on days I ride compared to when I take the subway.
>
> I was wondering if anyone has any bike commuting advice? I’m finding it
> hard to stay motivated. I want advanced level advice - not just “keep your
> tires pumped up,” but more along the lines of “Buy 5 Bromptons and have
> your wife drop them off at work every Sunday so you can ride one home per
> day.” One thing I might try is a lighter wheelset on the same bike. As Bill
> Lindsay said, “If everybody had a gravity knob on their bike, we would all
> peg it to the minimum.”
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Test post: I'm RBW Owners Bunch!

[Josiah Anderson]

Same here, reading in Gmail in Firefox on Mac OS. Bill was "RBW Owners
Bunch" in the original post here, as was everyone else on all my Google
groups (with their respective names) until about 11:20am Mountain time
today. Back to normal now. Obviously since they're emails for me the
previously sent messages with the bug are still showing up as such, but no
new ones are as far as I can tell.

Josiah

Le mar. 19 sept. 2023 à 13:03, Bill Lindsay  a écrit :

> I wasn't trying to communally debug.  I was just seeing if it was just me,
> and letting others it's not just them.
>
> For me, the issue has gone away.  For roughly an hour today, "everybody's"
> handle was "RBW Owners Group" on the RBW Owners Group.  Everybody's handle
> on the 650B Group was "650B".  About a third of the users on internet-bob
> had the username "internet-bob".  It appears to have cleared up.  I'm on a
> MacBook Air (OS Ventura 13.5.2), and Safari is my browser.
>
> Bill "formerly RBW Owners Group" Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Tuesday, September 19, 2023 at 11:24:49 AM UTC-7 divis...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> This is the first I'm hearing of this problem, which I have seen neither
>> here nor on iBOB (nor on any of the other Google Groups I check in to
>> regularly: CR, 650B, Bicycle Lifestyle, a couple of non-bikey groups).
>>
>> The issue may be specific to particular OSes/browsers/browser versions,
>> so just saying "I have/don't have the problem" really doesn't narrow things
>> down much. If you're trying to communally troubleshoot this, it would
>> probably be useful for the expansion of collective knowingness to post:
>>
>> 1) Your viewing platform (computer/smartphone/tablet make/model/OS)
>>
>> 2) Browser or email client?
>>
>> 3) Browser/email client make/model/version (e.g., Firefox 115.2.1)
>>
>> So to kick it off: 2015 MacBook Pro macOS 10.14.6/Safari 14.1.2
>>
>> Peter "pretend that we can't see your screen - because we can't" Adler
>> Berkeley, CA
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 19, 2023 at 10:29:49 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>> It seems to go back and forth. At some point I was able to see real user
>> names here but now its back to the generic RBW
>>
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Re: [RBW] A College Clem

[Josiah Anderson]

I'm going to go against others' strong opinions here. It probably depends
on where exactly he's going, but a Riv can be fine on a college campus if
he's careful. My Crust and Rivendell have both survived college campus life
at the University of Montana with me. I've had to use all sorts of
creativity for keeping them inside in Montana winters; they've ended up
under my bed, hanging in a closet, in the garage at work, in my living room
in the house I live in now, and the list goes on and on. When leaving them
locked up, my thinking is that they don't look like fancy modern bikes that
would be attractive to theives, and if they are locked well (I usually use
two u-locks if leaving for more than a couple hours) then the theives will
go for the abundance of basic modern mountain bikes locked with cables
instead. It's worked well for me for the past three years, and I know
several others who have ridden nice bikes on college campuses for many
years. Lock it up well, don't completely ignore it and it'll be fine. And
if it's not, then at least it was being loved and not just sitting around.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le sam. 5 août 2023 à 19:56, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> a écrit :

> It nearly kills me to say it, but my older son will be heading to college
> in a year. Freshman aren’t to bring cars to campus, so that leaves buses,
> bikes, and your own two feet for transportation. My boys have grown up
> riding Clem Hs; this son rides a 52 cm cast-off from my husband (who
> doesn’t ride, sigh).
>
> My 6’3” Dad had a blue 59 cm Clem on order when he died suddenly in 2020,
> and his blue Clem has sat, boxed, waiting for my boy to grow into it. I
> lugged the gargantuan box up from the basement last week to see how if the
> bike would fit. “Now that I’ve obtained optimal height,” my son is fond of
> saying…
>
> Anyway, he’s 6’1” now (likely still growing) and I need him to decide if
> he wants to stick with his old Clem H (that he was fond of) or settle into
> this Clem L. Because whichever bike he chooses is getting new wheels, dyno
> and fenders and going to college with him. At first he was opposed to the
> idea of a new Clem; he liked his old Clem, thought it looked cool. But
> after the - as he calls it - Big Bike was assembled, he really began to
> like it. “It looks elegant,” he said. It really does, all long and lithe,
> in blue and silver. He put his saddle and bags on the bike and we test rode
> it tonight. He said, “I am really liking the Big Bike. I like that my knees
> don’t have anything to hit (geez, were his knees hitting his bars?!) and it
> looks elegant. It feels more at home now that I have my old saddle on it.”
>
> I have mixed feelings about sending him to college with this bike, because
> it’s so nice. I also doubt he’ll be able to get it on a bus bike rack - and
> I have no idea how often he will want to do that. His bike life is totally
> unknown at this point. All I know is that I’m getting him dyno because the
> kid has never remembered to charge a light in his LIFE and I will not sleep
> at night without it.The 52 takes 650b wheels and the 59 takes 700c, so I
> don’t want to buy the wheels until I know which bike he really wants. But
> as of now, he wants his new bike.
>
> I know people will say we should just get a beater. I know why that would
> be advisable, but I also hate to think of a Clem languishing when it could
> be serving a noble purpose. I’d love for him and his Clem to journey
> through undergrad together.
>
> I am wondering…has anyone gone to college or sent their kid to college
> with a Clem? What do you have to say about it? Photos in the next post…
> Leah
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Shifters - UNO shifter

[Josiah Anderson]

Uhh... I'm pretty certain that 8-9-10 speed Shimano/Sram freehub bodies are
all the same width. It's 7 speed that is narrower. From 8 to 9 cogs and 9
to 10 they just decreased the spacing between cogs and didn't change the
overall width. 7 to 8 and 10 to 11 is when the width changed. Mountain 11
speed cassettes will fit on an 8 speed freehub because of the dished
largest cog, but not road 11 with a flat large cog.

Josiah Anderson
Usually in Missoula, MT

Le mar. 6 juin 2023 à 5:10 AM, lconley  a écrit :

> You likely cannot put a road 10, 11, or 12 speed cassette on an 8 speed
> hub (35.4mm), and 9 speed (36.5mm) is pretty iffy also. It is possible that
> the 8 speed cassette is on a wider hub with a spacer, but you need to
> check. Shimano 11 speed mountain cassettes fit 9 speed width hubs, so you
> can get at least 10 of the cogs on an 8 speed hub.
>
> Just as a reference point, I shift an 11 speed Dura Ace cassette with a
> downtube Silver1 shifter with Dura Ace 9 speed derailleur. I kind of prefer
> the long lever movement so that I don't skip any of the closely spaced
> gears. I also prefer the looks of the Silver1 over the Silver2. I keep
> threatening to grind down a Silver2 and put a Rustines Gum Shifter Cover on
> it, for a little less throw without the bulk of the Silver2 shifter.
>
> Laing
>
> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 7:43:41 PM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:
>
> I'm looking forward to reading how you like it. The spouse wants more
> gears and the fastest way to do it is to get him a 10- or 11-speed cassette
> and a friction shifter since his Breezer Downtown EX came as a 1x8.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis 2 sizing ? Inquiring about a local sale

[Josiah Anderson]

That Atlantis is being sold by Second Cycle, a shop that I used to work at
and have a long connection with. I would be surprised if they're measuring
incorrectly. I do see that they're listing the seat tube length center to
center, whereas Rivendell lists their seat tube lengths center to top.
Echoing others' questions, what seems wrong about it to you? Those
measurements seem plausible to me.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le sam. 6 mai 2023 à 12:44 PM, Eliot B  a écrit :

> It’s this one. If it wasn’t an hour each way I’d go check it out myself.
>
>
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bid/d/tacoma-rivendell-atlantis-complete-bike/7617558417.html
>
> On Saturday, May 6, 2023 at 8:35:34 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> This one? Looks like a 58 to me.
>>
>>
>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/bik/d/santa-cruz-rivendell-atlantis-touring/7618050500.html
>>
>> On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 10:46:01 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> What do you think the numbers should be?  For sure you can't fake or
>>> mistake 700c.  If it's an Atlantis 2, it's old.  The newer ones have the
>>> newer decals and no '2'.  If it's 700c and old, the smallest it could
>>> possibly be is a 58.  If it's a 58 it would be 58cm center to top and darn
>>> close to 56cm center to center.  The standover seems spot on for a 58.  A
>>> 58 should have more like a 58.5cm effective top tube, center to center, so
>>> that's the one discrepancy.  I'd bet a dollar that it's an unreliable
>>> measurer, and that it's a 58.
>>>
>>> How much do they want for it?  Do you have a link?
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 10:07:29 AM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> There is an Atlantis 2 for sale nearby. They are reporting a 56cm
>>>> ST/57cm TT with 700c wheels and 84cm standover.
>>>>
>>>> This sizing seems off to me for a 700c. Anyone have any insight ? Is
>>>> this a custom?
>>>>
>>>> Eliot
>>>>
>>> --
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[RBW] WTB (tentatively, in a few weeks) XL Gus frame

[Josiah Anderson]

Hey everyone,

Please forgive a bit of a strange WTB post.

My friends and our bikes and I were rear-ended by a pile of idiots on our
way home from a recent trip to Utah, and while all the humans are okay (at
least physically), my recently-new-to-me Gus Boots Willsen has a huge dent
and sharp creases in the downtube where it was smashed into the square tube
of the hitch-mounted rack. I would try to fix the damage, except it lines
up with a bottle boss so a tubing block won't work, and it's so sharply
creased that it'd very likely just crack anyway. I'm not going to post
pictures right now because I'm still waiting for insurance and don't want
to muck up that process, but it's some pretty gnarly damage.

My purpose in posting this is to find out if anyone has a Gus that they
would like to sell me when I finally manage to get money from insurance.
That way I'd already have one lined up and ready to buy ASAP and would have
it for as much of the riding season as possible (until then I'll be doing
all my trail riding on my Crust Lightning Bolt, which will still be fun but
in a very different way). It'll probably be a few weeks before I can get
the money, and while I am quite committed to fighting it out with insurance
and being able to afford to still be a Riv rider, I can't make any absolute
promises that the money will turn up.

That all being said, anyone got an XL Gus to sell? I'd be open to any color
from any run. Preferably frame/fork only. I also would consider a Susie,
but I ride chunky stuff with sometimes sizable loads and am not a
particularly small person, so the Gus is probably better for me.

Please message me off-list, whether it's about selling a Gus or about the
damage and insurance hassles (again, being paranoid about insurance stuff).
And I also totally get it if you'd rather wait for an immediate sale when I
actually have obtained the money.

Thank you in advance!

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

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Re: [RBW] Question - when did derailleurs become "mechs"?

[Josiah Anderson]

Yep, British term. I've never heard it said here in the US but I've seen it
in writing plenty of times throughout my decade-plus of experience with
bikes (I was born seven years after Bridgestone USA folded and have been
working on bikes since late elementary school). As far as I know the term
has been around for a long time.

Josiah

Le mar. 28 mars 2023 à 1:37 PM, Eric Floden  a
écrit :

> IIRC a retronym is a new term required when new tech or other developments
> dictate a new term. The only example that comes to mind is "black and white
> teevee" yo replace "teevee*" after colour teevees became a thing.
>
> Or maybe not...
>
> EricF
> A sometime enjoyer of wordplay
>
> * spelling hopefully endorsed by Gilbert Shelton
>
> On Tuesday, 28 March 2023, Luke Hendrickson 
> wrote:
> > I’ve been wondering the same thing. I don’t hear anyone in the shop
> where I work (customer or mechanic) refer to them as such. I assume it’s a
> trend?
> > Luke
> > Old at heart in San Francisco
> >
> > On Tuesday, March 28, 2023 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:
> >>
> >> In 54 years of working on bicycles with derailleurs, I had never used
> or heard them referred to as "mechs" until the last year or so. Where did
> this come from? Does it only refer to non-electronic derailleurs?
> >> Laing
> >> Old guy in Delray Beach FL
> >
> > --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Shimano Deore XT BR-M750 Direct Pull V Brakes

[Josiah Anderson]

Joe is right, you want long pull levers for v-brakes. A canti (short pull)
lever can sometimes kind of work with a v-brake, and I've done that before
to make the brakes exceptionally powerful, but the lever feel will be quite
spongy and the pads will be very close to the rim. It's not a recommended
combination unless you're specifically trying to do something strange and
you know exactly what you're getting into. Not sure what your LBS was
thinking recommending that; there was probably some miscommunication or
something.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le jeu. 9 mars 2023 à 9:36 AM, Michael Moore, Jr. 
a écrit :

> I don't know. The advice seemed odd to me, but I thought maybe I'm
> missing something. Hence the need for a second opinion.
>
> I already have the Paul Canti levers on the bike, and they strongly
> encouraged that I keep them even with the change from canti to v-brakes.
>
> On Sat, Mar 4, 2023, 1:07 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> Is your LBS high? (that's a Humboldt joke) Those are long-pull brakes and
>> need a long pull lever, I've used those Pauls with other Shimano v-brakes
>> and they're great. Why does the shop person think you need short-pull
>> levers?
>>
>> On Saturday, March 4, 2023 at 12:37:59 PM UTC-8 freefo...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Folks,
>>>
>>> I am thinking of pairing Paul's Love Levers with Shimano Deore XT
>>> BR-M750 Direct Pull V Brakes. My LBS thinks it;s a bad idea, and that I
>>> should with the Canti Lever. Does anyone have experience with the BR-M750
>>> Paul lever pairing?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> --
>>> Michael Moore, Jr.
>>> Humboldt County
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Pedal Question

[Josiah Anderson]

I agree with Ted, clipless pedals are not useful for most of the riding I
do. That riding consists of commuting, trail riding, long and fast-ish road
rides, and both paved and off-road touring. The only time I still use
clipless pedals is for racing (which I do just a little of); platforms are
much better the rest of the time. Maybe I don't care about foot attachment
as much as some people, considering that I'm also a telemark skier, but I
think having your foot solidly attached is overrated. I think a lot of the
time people do it because they feel like they have to or it's what everyone
else is doing, even when there's not a good reason to- that was me for
years before I realized how good flat pedals are. Getting a nice pair of
pedals helped too- I got a good deal on some thin Crank Brothers platforms
with good spikes and nice bearings and they made me like flat pedals a lot
more.

That being said, if you really want to try clipless pedals, I recommend
Time ATACs. They're the only clipless pedals I've used for the last few
years after moving away from SPDs and (eewww) Look road pedals, and I like
them for the float and the reasonably supportive pedal body as well as for
their performance in muddy conditions (I do race some cyclocross). SPDs
work fine too though, and maybe cheaper and easier to find.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le dim. 19 févr. 2023 à 07:22, Ted Durant  a écrit :

> On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 9:17:48 AM UTC-5 Dick Pahle wrote:
> trust  its ok to ask for product recomendation here. been riding with toe
> clips forever and ready to switch to clipless. anyone here have thoughts
> about a good pedal for a beginner. something easy to get in and out of. i
> get indegestion looking at all the different kinds/styles/types.
>
> Okay, I'll be the first to say it ... don't bother! I use Crank Brothers
> eggbeater pedals on most of my bikes, and I'm about to put some flat pedals
> on one of my regulars and do a fair amount of riding without bindings to
> see if I really still want them. I started going down the no-binding path a
> while ago, but much of my riding was commuting and I actually liked
> bindings for being able to accelerate quickly in traffic. If I was doing
> any group riding, I'd still want them, and for that reason even if I ditch
> the eggbeaters for most of my bikes, I will still keep them on my "group
> ride" bike (my Riv Road).
>
> That said, I've been very happy with eggbeaters because 1) they're super
> easy entry and exit (as long as you replace the cleats regularly), 2) low
> profile cleats with lots of walkable shoe options, 3)there's no tension
> adjustment required and the shoe-cleat-pedal interface is secure as long as
> you replace the cleats regularly and use shims as needed, 4) choice of
> fixed or floating cleats (I prefer fixed), 5) no extra weight. You do want
> shoes with fairly stiff soles, because the pedal itself offers no support.
> On the down side, they don't have a flat/binding two-sided option, but that
> hasn't been an issue for me. I have a box full of old Shimano pedals and
> cleats. I could never get happy with the shoe-cleat-pedal interface, it was
> always too loose and wobbly or too hard to release.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
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Re: [RBW] Gus owners, does your RD/shifter cable rub against kickstand bracket?

[Josiah Anderson]

Yep, mine does it too. Aesthetically disappointing and might wear out the
cable a bit faster, and might also take off some paint, but my Gus came to
me with paint dings already and the cable will probably break at the
shifter or derailer first anyway so I've decided to ignore it.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le mer. 18 janv. 2023 à 08:48, 'Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> a écrit :

> Gus owners,
>
> When doing a trial run of my RD/shifter cable from the BB cable guide to
> chain stay housing stop, it contacts underside of the kickstand bracket.
> Not proper in my mind.
>
> If you have same situation, how are you going to correct it, or just leave
> it? What say you?
>
> Scott
>
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>

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Re: [RBW] front derailleur on a Gus?

[Josiah Anderson]

I don't think you'll have any issues. I have a low clamp XT front derailer
set up to clear a 46t big ring on my Gus and it's still a cm or so below
the lower water bottle boss. I'm imagining that you'll probably be running
smaller rings than that, since it appears you have a derailer designed for
a double and not a triple, the shorter cage of which will also let it go
lower without hitting the chainstay. It does cover the Silver tubing
sticker if you care about that.

Le mar. 3 janv. 2023 à 2:32 PM, Richard Rose  a écrit :

> Gathering parts for my Gus Build. I had this deore fd on my Clem. It
> worked just fine but I changed it out to a nearly identical XTR for cheap.
> So I can use the Deore on the Gus. My question; are there interference
> issues on a Gus / Susie between a front derailleur and the seat tube water
> bottle mounts? A quick measurement from the Clem suggests it may be close.
> I will not know for sure until I have a crank in hand but trying to plan
> ahead.
>
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: XL Gus Boots

[Josiah Anderson]

Sorry, meant to send that off-list.

Le jeu. 24 nov. 2022 à 10:01, Josiah Anderson  a
écrit :

> Hey there,
>
> I would be very interested in this Gus! I've wanted one since they first
> came out but it just hasn't worked out yet. How would you feel about $2,200
> including shipping to WA? And it's not a Legolas but I have a nice 57cm
> Bianchi Volpe (lugged) cyclocross bike from the mid 90s for sale if you'd
> be interested in that at all as a partial trade.
>
> Thank you!
>
> Josiah Anderson
>
> Le mer. 23 nov. 2022 à 05:42, twowheeledtexan  a
> écrit :
>
>> I was holding on to this for a potential buyer that has fallen through,
>> so bumping it back up. I'd also be interested in a partial trade for a
>> 56-57 Legolas!
>>
>> On Saturday, October 1, 2022 at 2:38:02 PM UTC-5 twowheeledtexan wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Rivsters,
>>>
>>> I'm moving on a couple bikes that aren't being used as much as they
>>> should be. First up is a first generation Gus Boots in XL. I bought this
>>> off the list and have only put a couple hundred miles on it poking around
>>> having fun. It's in very good condition with only a few nicks/scratches
>>> that a Riv rider wouldn't be concerned with, a little chain suck and some
>>> cable rub. I'm selling the F/F/HS as well as seatpost/bb and the
>>> wheelset/tires. Wheels are Rich built from Riv in excellent condition,
>>> Velocity Cliffhangers, 36 hole, Kasai dyno hub up front and Shimano Deore
>>> rear hub. For reference in the pics the bike is setup with 2.25 Schwalbes,
>>> Bosco bars, and the saddle height in the pics is about 77cm. Buyer is
>>> responsible for shipping, unless you want to pick up from me, I'm in IN
>>> about an hour outside of Chicago. I think $2200 is fair, but if you don't
>>> make an offer.
>>>
>>> These bikes ride like a dream. I've had a Cheviot, and currently also
>>> have a Taiwan Atlantis with the rainbow TT, and the Gus is probably the
>>> most pleasant ride of them all. If you want/need parts let me know and
>>> maybe we can work something out. I've got loads of parts but have been
>>> hesitant to let them go with the current market.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1T4asHF5xKYNJKeFdGhTgu3MKcPxG2hqy?usp=sharing
>>>
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>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: XL Gus Boots

[Josiah Anderson]

Hey there,

I would be very interested in this Gus! I've wanted one since they first
came out but it just hasn't worked out yet. How would you feel about $2,200
including shipping to WA? And it's not a Legolas but I have a nice 57cm
Bianchi Volpe (lugged) cyclocross bike from the mid 90s for sale if you'd
be interested in that at all as a partial trade.

Thank you!

Josiah Anderson

Le mer. 23 nov. 2022 à 05:42, twowheeledtexan  a écrit :

> I was holding on to this for a potential buyer that has fallen through, so
> bumping it back up. I'd also be interested in a partial trade for a 56-57
> Legolas!
>
> On Saturday, October 1, 2022 at 2:38:02 PM UTC-5 twowheeledtexan wrote:
>
>> Hello Rivsters,
>>
>> I'm moving on a couple bikes that aren't being used as much as they
>> should be. First up is a first generation Gus Boots in XL. I bought this
>> off the list and have only put a couple hundred miles on it poking around
>> having fun. It's in very good condition with only a few nicks/scratches
>> that a Riv rider wouldn't be concerned with, a little chain suck and some
>> cable rub. I'm selling the F/F/HS as well as seatpost/bb and the
>> wheelset/tires. Wheels are Rich built from Riv in excellent condition,
>> Velocity Cliffhangers, 36 hole, Kasai dyno hub up front and Shimano Deore
>> rear hub. For reference in the pics the bike is setup with 2.25 Schwalbes,
>> Bosco bars, and the saddle height in the pics is about 77cm. Buyer is
>> responsible for shipping, unless you want to pick up from me, I'm in IN
>> about an hour outside of Chicago. I think $2200 is fair, but if you don't
>> make an offer.
>>
>> These bikes ride like a dream. I've had a Cheviot, and currently also
>> have a Taiwan Atlantis with the rainbow TT, and the Gus is probably the
>> most pleasant ride of them all. If you want/need parts let me know and
>> maybe we can work something out. I've got loads of parts but have been
>> hesitant to let them go with the current market.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1T4asHF5xKYNJKeFdGhTgu3MKcPxG2hqy?usp=sharing
>>
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Re: [RBW] Has anyone tried this type of brifter-like shifter/brake lever combo as cockpit option?

[Josiah Anderson]

Yeah, I had those on a fancy mountain bike for a while when I was still
into that (next trail bike will likely be an Atlantis, so you can tell
where my priorities are now). I didn't find them any better than trigger
shifters, or even regular old thumb shifters, which are my preference now.
I do have big hands so I guess normal shifters might be easier for me than
for some people, but I don't have any trouble shifting with my thumb while
holding on to the bar with the rest of my hand, so I didn't see any benefit
to these. I went back to regular Rapidfires after they failed. I also took
the thumb levers off of mine after a while and just shifted by pulling the
levers up and down; the thumb levers seem like an afterthought and aren't
too useful in my opinion.

Full disclosure, I also use downtube shifters on most of my road bikes and
even a rod-operated front derailer on one, so obviously I don't care too
much about shifter proximity to the main hand position. I currently have
three off-road bikes, and the handlebar/brake/shift situations are as
follows:
- Flat bar, Avid Speed Dial levers, one SunTour thumb shifter and
foot/manual front shifting (on a late 90s Nelson custom-for-someone-else
hardtail MTB from Wales)
- Moustache bar, Shimano 600 Tricolor aero road levers mounted a bit
farther back than Grant advises, SunTour bar-cons (on a 1983 Stumpjumper)
- Salsa Cowbell drop bar, more 600 tricolor levers, Shimano bar-end
shifters (on a humongous free Bianchi Volpe that's been great for
cyclocross)

Josiah
also in MT (Missoula)

Le mer. 16 nov. 2022 à 19:43, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> a écrit :

> Oofff, I spaced including what these shifters are and a picture. My
> apologies.
>
> I'm sure there are variants out there, but these particular ones are
> Shimano XTR ST-M961 series.
>
> On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 07:33:58 PM MST, 'Scott' via RBW Owners
> Bunch  wrote:
>
>
> First off, I know they ain't pretty. But has anyone given these a go?
>
> Coming from the MTB world I've never run swept back bars (confession) and
> have always marveled at the different cockpit set-ups folks come-up with:
> shifters and brake levers here, there, and everywhere. MTBing junky stuff,
> I prefer my hands married to the grips and not searching for a shifter to
> bang a gear or a brake lever to shed some speed.
>
> What makes these intriguing is that they are kind of a Frankenstein
> brifter. The brake lever for braking, obviously, but also doubling as a
> shift lever, up or down shift. The Frankenstein bit is the below the bar
> integrated thumb-actuated shifter that on the right side down shifts
> (unless you rapid rise reverse like I do) when pushed. As typical, left
> side would up shift chain wheels.
>
> Part of why I find these intriguing from a set-up/build solution
> perspective is because I once had a pair of Campy brifters on a road bike
> and thought it was pretty handy being able to shift and brake with my hands
> not leaving drop hoods.
>
> How did I get here? I'm on standby for a Gus and have been pondering
> Albatross set-ups. For surfing city streets, gravel roads, or even
> trail-bombing, it seems like these would be a nifty solution to all
> controls being in a tiny package easily accessed from most used hand
> position.
>
> Please, chime in on these and why you run the shifter/brake lever set-up
> you do: here, there, or everywhere...
>
> Scott in Big Sky Country, as in Montana.
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] How to bond plastic knob to metal screw?

[Josiah Anderson]

Oh, rereading I see now that you're actually trying to get the new knob to
stay put. What if you used that same locknut idea, just with one nut
pushing against the back of the knob? That would probably hold it on quite
securely.

Le jeu. 13 oct. 2022 à 21:00, Josiah Anderson  a
écrit :

> The goal is to remove that threaded rod, right? I would try to find two
> nuts that fit on there and lock them together, like you would on a hub
> axle, and just use those to turn it. Alternatively you could wrap it in
> something soft (bar tape?) and turn it with vise grips or something. I
> don't think the broken plastic knob necessarily has to be involved in this
> process, unless I'm missing something, which is very possible.
>
> Josiah
> Missoula, MT
>
> Le jeu. 13 oct. 2022 à 20:53, Piaw Na  a écrit :
>
>> I broke the plastic knob on my truing stand (see attached photo). I have
>> a replacement knob from Park, but am discovering that just threading it on
>> doesn't work --- when I need to turn the shaft counter-clockwise it comes
>> off the shaft instead of turning it. I've already tried red and blue
>> loctite and those don't work on metal/plastic interfaces. Should I try
>> epoxy next?
>>
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>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] How to bond plastic knob to metal screw?

[Josiah Anderson]

The goal is to remove that threaded rod, right? I would try to find two
nuts that fit on there and lock them together, like you would on a hub
axle, and just use those to turn it. Alternatively you could wrap it in
something soft (bar tape?) and turn it with vise grips or something. I
don't think the broken plastic knob necessarily has to be involved in this
process, unless I'm missing something, which is very possible.

Josiah
Missoula, MT

Le jeu. 13 oct. 2022 à 20:53, Piaw Na  a écrit :

> I broke the plastic knob on my truing stand (see attached photo). I have a
> replacement knob from Park, but am discovering that just threading it on
> doesn't work --- when I need to turn the shaft counter-clockwise it comes
> off the shaft instead of turning it. I've already tried red and blue
> loctite and those don't work on metal/plastic interfaces. Should I try
> epoxy next?
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Your preferred non-leather saddle

[Josiah Anderson]

I agree with Joe, the Fizik Aliente is pretty good as non-leather saddles
go, if that's the same one I'm thinking of. Mine is much older and is
battered beyond recognition at this point. I love the Selle Italia Flite
for race bikes, but I can't imagine it working well in as upright a
position as you described, and they're getting rare and quite expensive, so
I don't think I can agree with that suggestion.

I also like the Brooks C17 with some shellac added to make it smooth; there
should be a thread on ibob or maybe here where I posted about that a couple
years ago. It has the same sort of soft hammock feeling as a leather saddle
once broken in, but is definitely not the same shape as any leather Brooks.
However, nothing is more comfortable for me than a well-broken-in Brooks
Pro or Idéale 90 (or B17 for upright positions), and since a saddle is
better for me the more it feels like one of those, something entirely
different that what I've recommended might be better for you.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le jeu. 22 sept. 2022 à 12:39, zem...@gmail.com  a
écrit :

> I have tried and failed for years to love and get comfortable on leather
> saddles. I've really put in the miles so I'm fairly certain that this isn't
> a "break in period" issue. I've been through a couple Brooks and Stelle
> Anatomica.
>
> I'd like to get some non-leather saddles a try but there are so many it's
> hard to know where to start. I'm riding a San Marcos (similar to Homer or
> Roadini) with an Albatross bar about an inch above the saddle.
>
> Do you have a favourite non-leather saddle that's comfortable for you in a
> similar riding configuration?
>
> Zack
> Toronto, Canada
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Long reach brake options for AHH

[Josiah Anderson]

I agree with Eric and others who find the 559s lacking in stopping power.
They're more or less good enough in dry conditions, but if it's wet, not so
much, and they're even worse in the snow. One of my scariest bike
experiences ever was on a 650b conversion of an old Trek with 559s (with
salmon pads), coming down a long hill with a busy intersection at the
bottom. It was raining, and having recently switched to the Tektros from
Mafac Racers, I was expecting my brakes to work, but they didn't. I went
through the intersection at probably 35mph, and I managed to make the turn
and somehow there were no cars, but it still freaked me out. The 559s don't
seem to be able to squeeze hard enough to create enough friction to dry off
wet rims in a revolution or two like most other (good) rim brakes do, so
they just keep skating on top of the layer of water. Same deal for ice,
although there are fewer brakes that do well with that.

I've noticed that it seems like many of the people who like the 559s ride
in relatively dry places and many of us who regularly deal with wet and
freezing conditions find them inadequate. That's just my hypothesis on the
wide variety of opinions on these brakes; I know not everyone fits this
pattern.

(Apologies if this post comes through late- I post frequently on IBOB but
not as much here so might not have Cyclofiend Jim's approval to post).

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le lun. 11 juil. 2022 à 15:52, Cyclofiend Jim  a
écrit :

> I must ride a lot slower than all's y'all's... but I've honestly never had
> any trouble with my brakes on my AHH. I use the original standard Shimano
> Lever  that shipped with it in aught-seven (probably discontinued) on a set
> of Noodle bars. They don't bottom out at full pressure and the wheel will
> skid.
>
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2008/cc522-cyclofiend_jim0908.html
>
> - Jim
>
> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 3:41:01 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Laing: Forgive me if you've posted some before, but if not, I'd be
>> delighted to see photos of your Riv custom "racing bike." 53.4 X 62?? What
>> sort of bar? Me, I fit almost the diametrical opposite: 60 X 56 c-c for a
>> drop-bar bike.
>>
>> To all: I've found this discussion interesting, both regarding braking
>> effectiveness and road bike aesthetics. I have to say that I myself would
>> prefer cantis or V brakes, or braze-on centerpulls instead of what appear
>> to me clunky very-long reach calipers on a "gofast" road bike if medium
>> reach calipers didn't work; and in fact, I've seen a number of custom or
>> high-end production road bikes from before WWII built for cantilever
>> brakes. I think a great many of these were on the Classics Rendezvous and
>> Classic Lightweights UK websites.
>>
>> IME, I tend to agree with those who say that almost all brakes work
>> decently, if not brilliantly, if properly set up, and if the levers are
>> appropriate to the brakes proper. I know that my otherwise wonderful
>> second-gen (? The tab-operated cam) Dura Ace single pivots worked badly,
>> even with salmons, pulled by 7410-era levers, while the single pivot (high
>> end DC? Superbe Pro?) 57 mm reach single pivot on the gofast pulled by the
>> same levers works very well indeed, for power and for modulation.
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 10:34 AM lconley  wrote:
>>
>>> Appearance was a large consideration when I selected the Rene
>>> Herse braze-on centerpull brakes for my Rivendell Custom that was intended
>>> as a road bike. I call it a fat man's racing bike. "Racing Bike" as in no
>>> braze-ons for racks, no fender eyelets, no holes in the "brake" or chain
>>> stay bridges, - clean stays and forks but a really long wheelbase. The long
>>> chainstays are balanced by the really long main triangle (62 cm ETT x 53.4
>>> ST). What I did not realize was how large the Rene Herse brakes are, they
>>> dwarf my Mafac Competition , DiaCompe, and Weinmann centerpulls. But they
>>> still have that fifties - sixties racing bike look. The centerpull
>>> braze-ons are located between the rim and the fork crown/brake bridge, so
>>> they are a stiffer mount that cantilevers/V-brakes whose braze-ons are
>>> located below the rim. Another plus for the RH centerpulls is no black or
>>> plastic parts like the long reach Tektros.
>>>
>>> I have never actually seen another bike with braze-on centerpulls except
>>> in pictures - some in the book *Japanese Steel*. I have considered at
>>> times having Dia-Compe braze-ons installed on my Paramount for the original
>>> Weinmann centerpull brakes.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> 

Re: [RBW] Suggestions for transporting a fat, tall, heavy wheel by bicycle?

[Josiah Anderson]

I've had good results carrying wheels horizontally by putting the rim
against the forward stop ("tombstone") of a rear rack and the axle with QR
hooked in front of the rearmost rail, held on by two toe straps or whatever
else is handy. I have no idea if your wheel and rack will match up in a way
that makes this possible. I've also made many backpack-type wheel carriers
out of stuff pulled from bike shop garbage cans: inner tubes as the straps
and a piece of cardboard as padding, attached using some combination of
knots and zip-ties.

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le lun. 31 janv. 2022 à 16:33, Patrick Moore  a écrit :

> I seek ad hoc methods, nothing requiring permanent setups.
>
> Tomorrow I hope to pick up the rear Monocog wheel from the shop fewer than
> 2 miles from home. The wheel is heavy and almost 31" in diameter. The bike
> I plan to ride (to the PO, in fact, and pick up wheel on the way home) has
> a rear rack and will be carrying Ortlieb Backrollers, in case you have a
> solution involving rear racks and Ortlieb panniers.
>
> I've carried rims on my back slung by ad hoc slings created from 2 Riv
> Irish straps, and I've hacked front axle mounts for a pair of wheels(a la
> the working class Brit club racer solution, made in about 20 minutes from
> 1" aluminum strips, but this is for a single rear wheel and I don't want to
> bother to find the wheel carriers.
>
> My plan is to use the Irish/John straps and some cloth to pad the axle
> where it digs into my back -- or simply ride home 1-handed, carrying the
> wheel in the other hand -- untrafficked bosque ditch roads; but if
> youse/yiss/yinz/all y'all have better ideas, please share them. I really
> dislike driving my car on a 3-mile rt errand.
>
> Ta!
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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