Re: [RBW] Re: Experimenting with crank length

2013-04-02 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Small changes make a difference for me as well.  165's are sweet,
170's OK, 172.5's are hard for me to use.  I've had occaision to
forget what length cranks were on a bike only to look down and wonder
just what was going on.  Just me, though.

-Ken

On Tue, Apr 2, 2013 at 8:40 AM, Bruce Herbitter
bruce.herbit...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've tried 165, 170, and 172.5. Small changes can make a discernable
 difference on a bike. 170s work best for me (and I'm short with a 29
 inseam) so that is what I stay with.


 On Tue, Apr 2, 2013 at 8:38 AM, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:

 Garth,

 You and I are on the same page .. it's bunk for me.  Then I am not as
 sensitive to bike setup as many.   I have 171 I think on the Ram and they
 are perfect.. those Rene Herse Cranks.. I have 175's on my AHH and 175's on
 my Bombadil with 172.5 on my Mountain bike  I accidentally put 165's on
 a new build and didn't realize it till I was cleaning the bike a month
 later... I changed them out.. 165's really I'm 6'5 tall I can't ride
 those.. especially now that I know they are there.. :)

 Kelly

 On Tuesday, April 2, 2013 7:56:45 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:

 Experimenting on myself, all formulas for crank length are bunk !   lol
 lolYes, I said it !I followed them , like they say, and I have
 found using shorter ones to be absolutely prfect , for Me !   And yes
  I need please no one but me ... who else is there ?  lol

 I use Sugino XD 152's .  I have a 36 inseam and size 15 feet.  I use a
 mid foot position over the pedal ... another one of those myths I tested
 and debunked .  I get the speed of a short crank with the leverage of a long
 one with this way of riding ... and it came out by imagining it !!  What
 would it feel like to have the leverage of long cranks yet still be able to
 spin like short ones ?  Lo and behold ... this came to my mind to try and
 it's better than I even imagined !!!

 I could use even shorter ones, but these are fine for now as I am at the
 limits of bar height with my Bombadil already.
 The 152 XD's come with 24/36/50 rings and are spaced as 7/8 speed.  Yes,
 the rings are spaced wider than the longer XD's.

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Re: [RBW] Replying Directly to The Author of a Post

2013-03-12 Thread Kenneth Stagg
I agree with Dan on this one.  Most of the time on the lists that are
configured to always reply to the list I just don't reply.  I dislike the
chatter that comes from people replying to everyone with things that only
apply to the individual and it's a hassle to cut their address and change
the recipient.  I've been thinking of unsubscribing from this group due to
the infamous signal/noise ratio problems associated with reply to list
defaults but I'm giving it some more time.

-Ken

On Tuesday, March 12, 2013, Dan Abelson wrote:

 I think Jim meant that the reply to author function is available if you do
 the hover thing when you are viewing the list in Google Groups not Gmail.
  If you want to reply to author in gmail you need to cut and paste the
 address.

 I prefer the way IBOB works where the default is reply to author instead
 of group especially when viewing on my phone because if I want to send to
 the group the group is already in my address book so it can be added easily
 without cutting and pasting.  If I accidentally send to the group instead
 of the individual its not a big deal, I can just resend to the group, but
 when the group is the default you end up with a bunch of extra emails that
 were meant for the individual especially on FS posts.

 Dan Abelson


 On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 1:18 AM, René Sterental 
 orthie...@gmail.comjavascript:_e({}, 'cvml', 'orthie...@gmail.com');
  wrote:

 I've never seen the Reply to Author and don't see it now... I'm using
 the latest Safari on Mountain Lion. Haven't seen it in Explorer 9 on my
 Windows 7 PC at work either.

 What I do is hover my mouse over the name of the sender, so a card with
 the name, e-mail address, photo, etc. of the author displays and then
 highlight the e-mail address to copy it.

  The mysteries of Gmail...


 On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 9:56 PM, Leslie 
 leslie.bri...@gmail.comjavascript:_e({}, 'cvml', 
 'leslie.bri...@gmail.com');
  wrote:

 It's not flash; but iOS/ 'mobile' format is limited.

 However, at the bottom, there is a 'Desktop' link that forces mobile
 Safari to show the full version;  at that point, you can reply to the
 author

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Re: [RBW] pedal across wisconsin?

2013-03-10 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Seth,

No experience with this group in particular.  Flat is a relative thing when
it comes to bike rides - to me most of Wisconsin so far is 'flat' but
that's because I'm judging it against long, sustained climbs.  I don't
think I've done a climb that was much longer than one mile yet (though I
knowere were there are a couple.)  I think the difference between the
maximum and minimum elevations for the state is only something like 1,000'
so there obviously won't be any really extended climbs.  Some areas have
lots of short, sharp climbs, though - I did a ride down around New Glarus a
couple of years ago and actually had to use my third chainring!

If a route follows one of the meandering rivers it's a good bet that it
will be relatively flat.  Crossing from one river to the next can involve a
little climb.

A bigger deterrent to riding here is the wind, which can get pretty
monotonous :(  That being said, though, I love riding here.  The county and
other back roads are an increadible gift to the cyclist and the drivers
have been much more corteous than they were in Washington (caveat - I live,
and mostly ride, in a pretty rural area here and I lived in the
Everett/Seattle/Tacoma/Olympia corridor there.)

-Ken

On Sunday, March 10, 2013, Seth Vidal wrote:

 Hi,
  Does anyone on the list have any experience with:

 http://pedalacrosswisconsin.com/

 I'm a little curious about them - though I must admit - doing 50-60
 miles/day for 6 days feels like it could leave me a bit tired - I'm curious
 just how flat this really is and other experiences.

 Thanks,
 -sv

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Re: [RBW] Inch equivalent of 650b?

2013-02-13 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Not so sure about that.  Looking at Schwalbe's website I don't see that
size listed.  They do show a 584 but it's a 1.65 (650 x 42b):
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_420

-Ken



On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 4:49 PM, hsmitham hughsmit...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey new to the 650b size. Went to SB web site and found this sizing
 equivalent for the french utility size.

   26 x 1 1/2 (650B) 584 mm French http://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html 
 utility,
 tandem and loaded-touring bikes,
 a very few Raleigh (U.S.)  Schwinn mountain bikes.
 So if I purchased a Schwalbe Marathon wire GreenGuard HS420 in 26x1 1/2
  it should work right? Just want to be sure before I pull the trigger.
 Thanks in advance for holding my hand :)

 Hugh
 Sunland, Ca

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Re: [RBW] Re: Inch equivalent of 650b?

2013-02-13 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Michael,

26 tires come in various bead seat diameters.  Mores the pity.  As
Steve pointed out the fractional width  decimal width.  That's why
it's always best to use the ETRTO size so you know what you're
getting.

-Ken

On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 5:07 PM, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 You cannot use a 26 tire of any width/dimension for a 650b wheel because
 the Bead Seat Diameter is 584 for a 650b wheel, and 559 for 26 wheels.
 That's the part of the wheel where the bead of the tire clinches onto the
 hook of the rim.


 You need a 650b (584) size tire. Rivendell Bike Works sells the same tire in
 650b. Get 'em while they are available.

 Also note that a 650c tire will not work either on a 650b rim, as that
 diameter is different, too.

 It is funny though how a 650b wheel and tire measures 26.5 from the ground
 though.

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Re: [RBW] Any Riv tandem riders--tire width?

2013-02-07 Thread Kenneth Stagg
I much prefer wider tires - our current Bushnell is running 26x1.5s -
but that's nothing compared to how much my dear stoker prefers the
wider tires.  The real issue is having it designed to actually play
well with those wider tires - just increasing the width on a bike
designed for 25c tires whacks the handling.

-Ken

On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 12:53 AM, Salween
owen%livingrivers@gtempaccount.com wrote:
 Don't know if Grant and Co. will ever produce a tandem, so in the meantime
 will be getting one elsewhere.

 Seems like most tandems out there follow the skinny tire theme, with the
 exception of R+E in Seattle and Bilenky in Philadelphia, and even their tire
 clearances don't seem to push as far north as nearly all Riv singles. So
 wondering if there are any tandem riders here and what tire widths they
 prefer. On my Sam I ride 33/35mm tires often on marginal roads. So wondering
 what that might translate to on a 700c tandem?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Will a smaller frame put me further behind bb?

2013-01-09 Thread Kenneth Stagg
The key thing here is Assuming the seat tube angles are
identical  Typically smaller frames have steeper seat tube
angles, though I don't know about the AHH.  That will, once again
'typically', mean that smaller frames will put you further forward.
In my case it's one of the reasons I'm so happy with my custom frame
(non-Rivendell) - the seat tube angle is much shallower than most 53cm
frames (72 degrees) which allows me to get a good saddle position even
though I'm using a B17.

-Ken

On Wed, Jan 9, 2013 at 9:12 AM, iamkeith keithhar...@gmail.com wrote:
 Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you're over-thinking
 this.  The frame size shouldn't have anything to do with how fore or
 aft your saddle is, relative to the bottom bracket.  Assuming the seat
 tube angles are identical, the only thing that will change is the
 amount of seat post extension.   Trigonometry says it's still the same
 overall triangle.  On either frame, you can (should) put the saddle
 where it fits you and/or where you want it.  So the seatposts
 recommended above are relevant either way.  The difference between
 making the two different frames fit would be in chosing compensating
 stem length and height.  As per riv philosophy, I'd go with the
 biggest one that fits.

 On Jan 8, 11:07 pm, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 If it is the same model?
 Like, say I had to choose between a 55 and a 54 Homer.
 I think the answer would be no, because they are proportionately the same.
 But not sure. Thought I'd ask you all.
 I like shoving the saddle all the way back and wish it could go back more.

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Re: [RBW] Fender on /off

2013-01-07 Thread Kenneth Stagg
I've had the Mariposa for 8 or 9 years now and the fenders have never been
off.

-Ken

On Monday, January 7, 2013, René Sterental wrote:

 I just leave mine on year-round. I find that in the summer months, the
 fenders help keep the bike/parts cleaner as well from the dust/dirt on the
 roads and trails. The bike I've been riding with no fenders gets a lot
 dirtier than the fendered ones. I just don't see any penalty that having
 the fenders on during the dry months imposes.

 René


 On Mon, Jan 7, 2013 at 10:27 AM, Cyclofiend Jim 
 cyclofi...@earthlink.netjavascript:_e({}, 'cvml', 
 'cyclofi...@earthlink.net');
  wrote:

 You might get it set up with Sheldon's Fender nuts.  That eliminates the
 brake removal step and makes a 30 minute task into a 15 minute task.
 Either way is relatively easy.

 I tend to leave my QB fenders in place year round these days, and that's
 probably easier due to canti brakes rather than center-mount type. But, I
 do have a front rack that needs to come off and on again during that
 process.

 Hope that helps,

 - Jim



 On Monday, January 7, 2013 3:34:46 AM UTC-8, NWAJack wrote:

 So I've got an AHH on order with Longbow fenders.  I plan on removing
 these during the dry summer months.  How hard and time consuming are these
 to take on and off?

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Re: [RBW] Low trail schmo trail......

2012-12-09 Thread Kenneth Stagg
I didn't know anything about low trail when my Mariposa arrived, I just
knew that the handling was amazing compared to my Heron, or pretty much
anything else I'd ever ridden (exception being Moultons) and I wanted to
know why.  Digging showed that it was a combination of three main factors
in the geometry of the bike, which had been optimized by Mike Barry for my
preference of carrying  a handlebar bag (not too heavily loaded) and
saddlebag.  The other two factors were the seat tube angle (72 degrees is
pretty shallow these days for a 53cm frame) and bb height (designed around
my 165mm cranks).  The trail, though, was the part that was specifically
about lightening the handling of the bike, particularly with the handlebar
bag.

Further reading after the fact suggested that shortening the trail for the
tandem would make it nicer for a team that tended to go uphill slowly - I'm
sure the Erickson would be great for a fast team on 25C tires but for a
slow team on 30Cs going uphill was a lot more of a workout for my upper
body than for my legs (when we finished Tour de Blast on the Erickson my
arms were jelly but my legs were fine - that's the day that I decided to
replace the tandem.)

-Ken

On Sunday, December 9, 2012, RJM wrote:

 Ride-wise, I think the Sam is great. I wonder if the floppy feeling with
 certain loads is size based. I ride a 48cm, and generally keep a small
 saddlesack with a tool roll, spare tire, pump, some food, some extra
 clothing and possibly another water bottle in it. With that load, the only
 time I get the hint of flop in the front is when I am going very slowly up
 a rather steep hill. It isn't a lack of control or anything, just a feeling
 that I am going too slow and should probably speed up.

 I think the low trail thing is for people who really want to put a bunch
 of gear on the front of their bikes with no load on the rear. I just don't
 get it all that much.



 On Saturday, December 8, 2012 11:17:07 PM UTC-6, charlie wrote:

 Just rode my 'Sam' after obsessing over low trail forks for the last few
 months. With my new drop bars and hobo bag I never noticed 'wheel flop' or
 any tendency of the bike to wander as some might contend. Just a nice
 pleasant ride uphill and down and straight line performance was solid. My
 new Hillborne rides like a dream. If you are on the fence and are
 considering a low trail fork or frame over your Rivendell like I was
 starting to do..rest assured your Riv is a fine ride. I think we
 cyclists are often fickle when it comes to bikes and the latest new gadget
 or re-invented design. I guess I'm just saying (maybe for my own benefit)
 try other brands if like but know that a Grant designed Rivendell is a
 solidly designed frame. Go Grant !

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Re: [RBW] Low trail schmo trail......

2012-12-09 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Maybe some of the time, but I was used to the Heron's handling and its
handling was the reason I ordered the Mariposa.  I specifically told Mike
that I wanted the new bike to have lighter handling than the Heron because
I was tired of having to muscle it around.  I actually had a hard time
believing just how much better the Mariposa handled - it was like night and
day.

-Ken

On Sunday, December 9, 2012, Mojo wrote:

 I like what Grant has said many times, poorly paraphrased here, you get
 used to what you ride. I have four Rivendells and absolutley love the
 handling of three of them and live just fine with the fourth. Beyond those
 frames, I have also acquired a poor-man's Atlantis, the Surly LHT.  After
 some experience carrying stuff on the LHT and reading lots I decided to
 change the fork. Tom Matchak built it for me
 http://tommatchakcycles.blogspot.com/2007/03/frame-neutral-replacement-fork.html
 The difference was subtle but distinctive and very pleasurable. I think I
 may talk to Tom Matchak about that fourth Rivendell.

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Re: [RBW] Re: lights

2012-10-08 Thread Kenneth Stagg
It also makes sense for morning people like me.  I'm already awake, I love 
sunrise, I love riding.  Put them all together

-Ken

On Oct 8, 2012, at 4:43 PM, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:

 Dawn touring makes tons of sense where it's very hot. Even non-hardcore 
 tourists quickly learn the benefit of avoiding 100 degree heat in the full 
 sun.
 
 -- Anne
 
 On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:34 AM, IanA attew...@gmail.com wrote:
 Dawn touring would be pretty hardcore.   
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-23 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Not that curious.  It's advice concerning weight on the hands, not power.  
Peter White has an excellent explanation of why this works, but he also says 
that it's not for everyone.  Personally I find it more comfortable well back 
but if I'm working harder (i.e. trying to go fast, or at least what passes for 
fast for me) I tend to slide forward some.  I will say that I've noticed the 
difference on a bike that wasn't changed except for the addition of the VO seat 
post - it took a noticeable amount of pressure off of my hands.

-Ken

On Sep 21, 2012, at 4:05 PM, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:

 I find this advice to push the saddle back rather curious...
 
 When I built up my AHH I took this advice into account and bought a setback 
 seatpost... for a few months I wondered why I felt so slow and weak and 
 couldn't get comfortable on the bike... until one day it hit me, when I 
 shoved the saddle all of the way forward (back to where it was on a straight 
 seatpost) and suddenly I felt like I had strength and was comfortable again!  
 Problem now is that it looks funny.  Speaking of which, anybody in the Sac, 
 CA area want to trade a VO Grand Cru Seat Post, Long Setback for a straight 
 seatpost of similar quality? :-)
 
 -Rex
 
 On Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 3:22 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have also struggled with hand numbness over the years.
  
 Idea #1:
 Try moving your saddle all the way back and see what happens.
 When my saddle was forward, I got numb hands. When moved further back, I got 
 aching hands.
 When shoved all the way back, my hands are now feeling more comfortable than 
 ever. Much better. Seems like barely any problems now.
  
 Other thoughts:
 Do you use a different hand position when descending than climbing? So 
 hands pressing into the bars differently?
 Is most of your weight on the pedals while descending, like a jockey?
 Do you move your behind backwards over the saddle and stretch out when 
 descending?
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Re: [RBW] Are Brooks saddles really that high maintenance?

2012-08-10 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 9:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi everyone,

 Since I am new to Riv, I am also new to Brooks.
 In Just Ride Grant tells how to care fof a leather saddle.
 He says to cover it with something to keep it dry - whether from sweat or
 rain. He says sweat from long rides.

 But sweat, really? Every time I go on a long ride I need to ride with a
 cover or shower cap, or something on it to keep my sweat off it? Is it
 really that high maintenance?

 What do you think? What is your experience?

I've never worried about sweat damaging my Brooks saddles.
Discoloring some, sure, though I just call it patina.  Damaging, no.
I have a plastic bag tucked under the saddle to use if it's likely to
be outside in the rain without me covering it and I have an Aardvark
cover for if I think I'm going to be out for more than four or five
hours in heavy rain.  Otherwise it's uncovered.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Biking incident on Seattle BGT...

2012-08-07 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 12:58 PM, SteveD stephendem...@gmail.com wrote:

 Everyone's enjoying their day on the tree-lined trail with a nice little
 breeze. You notice that there's a threesome of pedestrians abreast of each
 other, chatting, about 50 feet or so ahead of you. There are other cyclists
 on your lefting as they pass. The trail is getting a little congested, and
 your preparing to slow down as you approach the pedestrians to pass. On
 your left, the pedestrian don't heed your warning and at the same time some
 rider goes zipping by you without any warning as you're making your move,
 oblivious of the situation, causing you to slam on your brakes in order to
 not run into the people in front of you, and causes you to jar your
 shoulder, and hit you pubic bone against the bike stem and cut your leg on
 the chain ring as you try to stabilize your bike without taking a full-on
 fall. And, your spouse who is riding behind you, swerves to the left across
 the trail and into the ditch that runs alongside it so that he/she doesn't
 rear-end you. Not a pretty scene.


Uh, yeah.  The times I've ridden the BGT it was a zoo, pretty much
from Seattle to the top of the lake.  Yes there's a 15mph speed limit
but a) that's too fast for when it's crowded and b) there are too many
utter morons who completely ignore it, stop signs, signals and all of
the other conventions that are place to make the use of MUPS safe (not
to mention roads!)

Last week I road SAGBRAW here in Wisconsin.  On the first day there
was an option to take a MUP for the last stretch along the Lake
Michigan into Manitowoc.  I took the road instead because it was a hot
day, I knew the path would be crowded and I wanted to get in to the
finish so I could take a shower.  Not a good time to be slowing to
15mph and doing the slalom with oblivious pedestrians.

Riv content - I wondered around a couple of the overnight stops
checking out the bikes but the closest I saw to a Rivendell was my
Mariposa (modified 1st generation Rivendell lugs.)  It was a bit
shocking after seeing so many Rams, Atlantises and Riv's back in the
Seattle area.  Out of 400+ riders you could probably count the number
of lugged bikes on two hands.  OTOH, they were out there riding
because they enjoy it so I won't gripe about their rides of choice :)

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wisdom or Cowardice, how fast to go downhill?

2012-07-14 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Or use disks.  That's one of the reasons we got disks on the new
tandem, though I still alternate front/rear to allow the disks
themselves to cool.

It's been interesting to see how people limit their speeds.  I do if
I'm unsure of the road but if it's a nice, visible road with no cross
traffic I tend to let it roll.  We've hit 50+ on the tandem a couple
of time (on Tour de Blast we actually used the disk as a light drag
because there were state patrolmen around and they were rumored to
ticket cyclists breaking 55mph - which would be insanely easy coming
down from Johnson ridge on a tandem!)  Cindy has been fine with it, in
fact I sometimes keep it slower than she would like since I have a
better idea of the handling/stopping abilities of the big bike.

-Ken

On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 11:28 PM, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
 On a truly long and steep descent, trying to come down too slowly has its
 own peril - overheated rims and blown tires.  Letting the bike roll out some
 allows some energy to be dissipated by the wind, sparing the brakes for when
 they are really needed.  It can be a fine line between over-braking and
 under-braking.  At some point wisdom would have you stop to let the rims
 cool.

 Bill
 Stockton, CA


 On Friday, July 13, 2012 7:53:40 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I'm not a particularly anxious person, although I do get anxious when
 someone compliments my courage!  I regularly downhill at 40+ mph and have
 hit 50 on good pavement and reasonably straight mountain descents without
 too much anxiety, but one hill this year has me spooked.

 One of my favorite routes is a 23 mile ride with 1400 feet of climbing
 that is equally divided among lightly traveled  good dirt roads, mostly
 descent chip  seal town roads, and a third of moderately traveled state
 roads.  It provides beautiful pastoral scenery, a good view of the whole of
 the Mt. Mansfield ridge line, and a stretch along the Lamoille River,
 including the impressive Fairfax Falls. In the past I have always ridden it
 counter clockwise, which includes a beast of a 3K climb, including a K of
 20%+ grade right in the middle.  This year I reversed direction and have
 been riding it clockwise on my Rambouillet, with a very nice set of Grand
 Bois Cerf tires.  The first time down it I discovered the pavement on the
 steepest section was not in good condition, no pot holes or heaves, just
 lots of broken chip and seal.  The bumping was quite dramatic and I felt
 like one good hole could toss me over the handle bars.  Garmin was showing
 47.5 when I lightly squeezed the rear brake.  Fortunately the Paul's Racers
 have excellent modulation and I safely slowed enough to feel OK.

 But when I got to the bottom I asked myself why I chickened out, since I
 was just fine, and thought that the next time I would lay off the brakes.
 But this hasn't happened.  Instead each time I have gone down it, I have
 gone slower and slower.  Today I took out my Trek, which has 32 mm TServes
 to see if I would feel more comfortable at higher speeds with the softer
 tire.  But when I got to the top of the hill I realized I had no real taste
 for the experiment.  I went down at 25, until I could see the good pavement
 at the bottom and then I let it roll out to 39.

 So I ask myself, is this wisdom, or just yielding to irrational anxiety.

 Michael
 Westford, VT

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Re: [RBW] Wisdom or Cowardice, how fast to go downhill?

2012-07-13 Thread Kenneth Stagg
I'll vote for wisdom.  If you don't feel comfortable with the speed on
a particular section of road then take it slow there.  Discretion,
valor and all of that.  A rough road will have me taking it easy every
time even though I'm running medium pressure 26x1.5s.  I surely love
flying down a decent road, though :)

-Ken

On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 9:53 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm not a particularly anxious person, although I do get anxious when
 someone compliments my courage!  I regularly downhill at 40+ mph and have
 hit 50 on good pavement and reasonably straight mountain descents without
 too much anxiety, but one hill this year has me spooked.

 One of my favorite routes is a 23 mile ride with 1400 feet of climbing that
 is equally divided among lightly traveled  good dirt roads, mostly descent
 chip  seal town roads, and a third of moderately traveled state roads.  It
 provides beautiful pastoral scenery, a good view of the whole of the Mt.
 Mansfield ridge line, and a stretch along the Lamoille River, including the
 impressive Fairfax Falls. In the past I have always ridden it counter
 clockwise, which includes a beast of a 3K climb, including a K of 20%+ grade
 right in the middle.  This year I reversed direction and have been riding it
 clockwise on my Rambouillet, with a very nice set of Grand Bois Cerf tires.
 The first time down it I discovered the pavement on the steepest section was
 not in good condition, no pot holes or heaves, just lots of broken chip and
 seal.  The bumping was quite dramatic and I felt like one good hole could
 toss me over the handle bars.  Garmin was showing 47.5 when I lightly
 squeezed the rear brake.  Fortunately the Paul's Racers have excellent
 modulation and I safely slowed enough to feel OK.

 But when I got to the bottom I asked myself why I chickened out, since I was
 just fine, and thought that the next time I would lay off the brakes.  But
 this hasn't happened.  Instead each time I have gone down it, I have gone
 slower and slower.  Today I took out my Trek, which has 32 mm TServes to see
 if I would feel more comfortable at higher speeds with the softer tire.  But
 when I got to the top of the hill I realized I had no real taste for the
 experiment.  I went down at 25, until I could see the good pavement at the
 bottom and then I let it roll out to 39.

 So I ask myself, is this wisdom, or just yielding to irrational anxiety.

 Michael
 Westford, VT

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Re: [RBW] Re: My favorite bike invention!

2012-07-03 Thread Kenneth Stagg
But that's not from the last 35 years If we're talking in general
then I'd say the safety bike followed by pneumatic tires.

-Ken

On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 7:50 AM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Wait, it has to be the quick release.


 On Jul 2, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Eric Platt wrote:

 My favorite?  Might be the larger sized frame Surly LHT available with 26
 wheels.  Am able to realize what I had been trying to get my bikes to do
 back in the mid 1980's.  Somewhat wide tires, with long chainstays and drop
 bars.

 And yes, an Atlantis will do the same thing, but frame sizes above 56
 restrict one to 700C wheels.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 7:38 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:

 42/52 and 13-23 eh? I recall 44/52 and a 14-18 straight block.
 Of course after 30+ years and a relocation, now I'm thinking about
 28/44 and a 12-36.

 On Jul 2, 9:43 am, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
  OK, admittedly a bit, ok a lot, off topic... but Riv people have a
  nuanced relationship with technological biking advancements.  So
  consider this a philosophical inquiry. (Perhaps even GP will be
  interested
  in this unscientific survey) Yesterday as I was out for a very pleasant
  couple of hours riding in the Green Mountains on my Ram, I had a certain
  insight into what has added the most to my cycling pleasure during the
  last
  35 years.  It was clear.  The compact crank!
 
  When I took up cycling, as an adult, with full Campy equipment,typical
  gearing was a 52/42 mated to a 13-23.  Even then being wimpy I used a
  13-26
  and discovered that despite Campy's claims my NR derailler would handle
  a
  28.  Still big hills, let alone mountain passes, were agonizing.  Now
  with
  a 44/30  11/28, I can cruise up 8% grades in a near 1 to 1 ratio, and
  manage the occasional  10-14% ramp without distress even though I am 30
  years older.  Of course longer 10+% mountain climbs want lower gears.  I
  believe that the compact crank has also driven both front and rear
  derailler development, yielding crisp shifting over just enough wider
  range
   to make a go-fast set up appropriate for  tackling lots of hills.
 
  Of course, learning the speed and joy are independent variables has also
  helped a lot.  But pain and joy are not.
 
  S what bicycle development has added the most to your enjoyment
  during your cycling career?
 
  Michael

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 James Warren
 jimcwar...@earthlink.net

 - Remember, my friends, it is better to feel fast than to be fast.



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Re: [RBW] My favorite bike invention!

2012-07-02 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 11:43 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 OK, admittedly a bit, ok a lot, off topic... but Riv people have a
 nuanced relationship with technological biking advancements.  So
 consider this a philosophical inquiry. (Perhaps even GP will be interested
 in this unscientific survey) Yesterday as I was out for a very pleasant
 couple of hours riding in the Green Mountains on my Ram, I had a certain
 insight into what has added the most to my cycling pleasure during the last
 35 years.  It was clear.  The compact crank!

I thought people were doing that with the TA years ago.

Oh, well - my pick is Campy's Ergo brake levers.  Brifter shifting is
fine but it's the shape of the levers that keeps them on my bikes.
They just feel right.

Runner up, Rohloff hub.  It would be the winner if there was a real
shifter for it rather than POS twist shifters.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Review of Just Ride.

2012-06-28 Thread Kenneth Stagg
I don't think I've ever had that response, but last weekend supplied a
pair of interesting comments on the Mariposa.

I did a century out of Newburg, WI and on the first leg a much
stronger rider on a rather pretty piece of plastic commented on how
nice my bike looked as he went by me.  I caught up with him at a rest
stop and got a chance to look at his bike a bit more - the N logo was
very discrete and I'm still trying to remember what brand he said it
was (I don't think it was spelled out anywhere on the bike.)

At a later stop an older guy who had been chasing me for a while
commented that I was getting along pretty good on that old bike.  He
was riding what looked to be an early 90's Trek - probably close to
ten years older than my bike :)

Fun ride and I never noticed the weight of my bike (unlike the weight
of my person.)  Mostly the stronger riders on organized rides seem to
like the look of my bike even if they think of it as a bit of an
anachronism.

-Ken

On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 11:43 AM, RJM crccpadu...@gmail.com wrote:
 I agree with you and it is an attitude that becomes very apparent when you
 show up to a group road ride on a steel framed/racked and bagged/fat tired
 bike.  You think you are riding with us on that??


 On Thursday, June 28, 2012 11:33:26 AM UTC-5, James Warren wrote:


 Right. This illustrates my point. The reviewer of the article seems to
 visualize cycling as this great multi-faceted thing, but the subset of it
 called road-riding is not allowed to have a 31-pound bike. That's where I
 disagree. Doug's fully satisfying ride (described below) should be called a
 road ride.

 The reviewer doesn't say, for me, road-riding performance means lighter
 weight... He says, the notion of a 31-pound 'performance' road bike is
 ridiculous. Given his position as reviewer, that assertion is presumptuous,
 trying to tell me, the reader, what road bike performance really means. He
 even says that it is worthy of ridicule to attempt to define road-riding
 differently with an over-30-pound bike. I'm guessing that this presumption
 and the commonality of it is at least part of what lead to Just Ride.

 -Jim W.


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Re: [RBW] frame swap? (My LongLow custom for your Atlantis)

2012-06-22 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 1:58 PM, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:

 So, as my bicycling life evolves and my atorage options aren't increasing,
 it makes sense for me to transition to bikes I will actually ride, and will
 enjoy riding as I age.

Beth,

Good for you.  Circumstances change and none of us are getting any
younger.  Being able to accept that and move on is great (not sure if
I'll be up to it if I ever start to not enjoy the Mariposa but I can
hope.)

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] reaffirmation of a nice frame

2012-06-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 12:41 AM, Brian Hanson stone...@gmail.com wrote:
 I rode a total of 36 miles today, and never got used to the handling.
  Talk about a great way to make you appreciate how great the frames are that
 Rivendell makes.  I was mentally comparing the ride of my Hunqapillar and
 AHH with this thing all the way home.  They are in another class altogether.
  Next time someone says that the components make all the difference, I'll
 just have to smirk.

I know the feeling.  After I got my Mariposa nothing else was any fun
to ride (except the tandem.)  I could ride the Heron or one of the
Moultons but they felt dead and heavy.  Eventually they all went away
and I still marvel at the incredible feel of the Mariposa each time I
ride it.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] reaffirmation of a nice frame

2012-06-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Blessing here.  I spend more time riding and less time thinking,
writing, talking or stressing about bikes.  I have more money in my
pocket because I don't worry about trying to find something better
than what's already on the bike.  The only tweaking I've done on the
bike since I got it has been to change out the pedals and (recently)
the cassette for a different set of ratios since I've moved away from
the area for which it was originally geared.

-Ken

On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 1:45 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Is it a blessing or a curse, getting a bike that makes all other bikes feel
 bad?  I think it's a blessing.  My first Riv was a tipping point for me.  It
 changed the way I viewed cycling as a whole.  The consequence was that 100%
 of my kinda substantial stable got turned over (let me see one, two,
 threeseven bikes that I had in the garage in December 2009 are now
 gone).  I'm back up to 5 bikes for me, and only two of them are Rivendells,
 but they are all the direct consequence of the transformation in me that
 began with my first Riv and continues.


 On Thursday, June 21, 2012 9:56:09 AM UTC-7, kennet...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 12:41 AM, Brian Hanson stone...@gmail.com wrote:
  I rode a total of 36 miles today, and never got used to the handling.
   Talk about a great way to make you appreciate how great the frames are
  that
  Rivendell makes.  I was mentally comparing the ride of my Hunqapillar
  and
  AHH with this thing all the way home.  They are in another class
  altogether.
   Next time someone says that the components make all the difference,
  I'll
  just have to smirk.

 I know the feeling.  After I got my Mariposa nothing else was any fun
 to ride (except the tandem.)  I could ride the Heron or one of the
 Moultons but they felt dead and heavy.  Eventually they all went away
 and I still marvel at the incredible feel of the Mariposa each time I
 ride it.

 -Ken

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Re: [RBW] reaffirmation of a nice frame

2012-06-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Yep, 559.  Still using Panaracer HiRoads.  Haven't decided what I'm
going to move to when my stash of these is used up.  I'd love to find
a smooth, light, flexible, moderately durable 26x1.5 tire if someone
has suggestions.

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2005/cc026-kenstagg0805.html

Note I think the lugs the modified Riv 1st generation (to qualify for
posting on RBW :)  Oh, and this sold me on low trail - the handling
difference with cushier tires and a handlebar bag - both of which I'm
fond of - is amazing.

-Ken

On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 1:59 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Ken: can you post a photo? I think I saw it on the Boblist when you
 first took delivery, but it has been too long to remember what I saw.
 IIRC, it's a 559 wheeled design, right? I'm curious to see again what
 it is like -- and, if I am right in thinking that it is 559, to learn
 what tires you are using.

 Thanks.


 On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 12:50 PM, Kenneth Stagg kenneth.st...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 Blessing here.  I spend more time riding and less time thinking,
 writing, talking or stressing about bikes.  I have more money in my
 pocket because I don't worry about trying to find something better
 than what's already on the bike.  The only tweaking I've done on the
 bike since I got it has been to change out the pedals and (recently)
 the cassette for a different set of ratios since I've moved away from
 the area for which it was originally geared.

 -Ken


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 -
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 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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Re: [RBW] reaffirmation of a nice frame

2012-06-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 Yes, but honestly, Ken, that Mariposa of yours is literally nothing shy
 of perfection.  Of course you don't worry about tweaking it -- any more
 than they worry about tweaking the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

And the really cool part?  It rides better than it looks.  I think
Mike must have performed some magic to make it handle so well - either
that or years and years of practice and study grounded in an intuitive
understanding, but magic sounds more interesting ;)

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] reaffirmation of a nice frame

2012-06-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Thanks.  Worth looking into.  Actually your suggestion reminded me of
something else.  Anyone tried the Primo Comets in 1.5?  I see that the
Hostel Shoppe lists them in both wire bead and Kevlar.

-Ken

On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 2:19 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks, Ken.

 Not 1.5, but for 1.35 the Schwalbe Kojaks are very nice.

 On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 1:17 PM, Kenneth Stagg kenneth.st...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 Yes, but honestly, Ken, that Mariposa of yours is literally nothing shy
 of perfection.  Of course you don't worry about tweaking it -- any more
 than they worry about tweaking the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

 And the really cool part?  It rides better than it looks.  I think
 Mike must have performed some magic to make it handle so well - either
 that or years and years of practice and study grounded in an intuitive
 understanding, but magic sounds more interesting ;)

 -Ken

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 Flannery O'Connor

 -
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 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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Re: [RBW] reaffirmation of a nice frame

2012-06-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 2:37 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Give me a break!  You can always improve a bike.  That's just laziness and
 settling for 'good enough'.

Well...  Maybe.  I have thought about swapping the headlamp out for
one of the new LED headlamps that wasn't available when I spec'd the
bike :)

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Summer plans?

2012-06-18 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Fri, Jun 15, 2012 at 8:44 AM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 It's a beautiful sunny morning here in PDX. Sadly today is my Monday and
 I'll be working through the weekend. Still, it's one of those days when you
 can feel summer on the way. Looking through Manny's and other list members'
 photos has me thinking about Rivish summer adventures. What are your plans?

Ride :)  Actually with a little luck I'm going to get to do SABRAW
this year.  It would be a good year for it since its layover day is
here in Waupun so I'd get two nights at home!  Otherwise I'm just
hoping to get to where I can do my loop around the Horicon marsh in
the mornings before work rather than having to wait for the weekends.
It's a gorgeous ride (and great for bird watching) but at 45 miles it
takes just a teeny bit too long to be fed and showered by 8:30.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 2:10 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 My main concerns are,

 (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term) on your back on a hot day?

YMMV but I hated it.

 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?

I didn't have a mold problem but the water coming out of it always
tasted foul.  Note that this was a Camelback and I've heard some of
the other bladders don't impart so much nasty taste.


 Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?

Handlebar mount cages :)  I actually end up throwing extras in the
side pockets of my saddlebag since I love my handlebar bag too much to
ditch it even for the convenience of handlebar mount waterbottles.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

2012-05-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Interestingly enough for me the idea was to get lower than that -
closer to the 250mm of the Mariposa.  I didn't quite make it but
between the drop I did achieve and the reduced trail the handle of my
(now departed) Heron Road was wonderfully light compared to the same
bike with 700x28's.

-Ken

On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 1:21 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 For me the big deal is BB height before and after.  Plan it out and try to
 keep it at or above 260mm.  This bike measured 265 with 700x20 tires.  If I
 went to 650x32, it would drop me 7mm lower into the danger zone.  650x38
 drops me 1mm (plus any tire sag), so it should be perfecto.


 On Monday, May 21, 2012 11:03:55 AM UTC-7, MichaelH wrote:

 Sounds exciting.  I have an 84 Trek 620 that I have considered for
 conversion, but have never gotten up the courage or $$.  For now, I've taken
 off the fenders, which gives me good clearance for JBs.  Keep us posted on
 how this goes.

 Michael

 On Monday, May 21, 2012 1:55:57 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the midst of a 650B conversion that I'm pretty excited about.
  I've acquired a 1984 Miyata 912, and it's getting resurrected.  The major
 enhancement in my eyes is that I'll be converting it from a solid road bike
 that can take 700x25c tires without fenders, into a bike that can take
 650x38B tires with fenders.  This conversion has a couple new aspects for
 me.  The clearance at the forks and the seatstays was wide enough for
 Hetres, but it was cozy down at the chainstays.  I researched a little
 through the various forums and on flickr and got my courage up to crush the
 chainstays a little bit to make some extra room.  That worked great, and
 I'll go at it again if I actually decide to run Hetres.  For now it'll be
 Soma B-Lines.

 The other highlights are that I'll be running the new, lighter weight
 Velocity A23 650B rims, exclusively available from Longleaf in New
 Hampshire.  Those rims, along with some advice from Anthony at Longleaf has
 got me convinced to give tubeless a try.  I'm a little freaked out by the
 concept, and I'm nervous that I'll make a mess of the whole thing, but at
 the same time I'm excited to learn something new.  Finally, this bike will
 be the home for a Sugino compact double that I beautified as my first bike
 part polishing project.  It was a 52/42/30 130/74mm crankset, that I've
 converted to a chainguard/42/26.

 This bike is tagged to become my new commute bike.  I've been using the
 Bombadil for my daily commute.  That commute involves bike on the roof of
 the car in the morning (carpool), and then a bike/BART commute home in the
 evening.  The ride home from BART is 2 miles, 600ft of climbing.  The Bomba
 is obviously smooth, rugged, and reliable.  The shortcomings are that the
 Bombadil is heavy for the roof rack, heavy for BART steps, and heavy for the
 600ft climb, not to mention valuable to be subjected to 30 miles of freeway
 roofrackage every morning.  This Miyata will essentially be everything a
 Bleriot or a Betty Foy would have been for me.  Hopefully I can have it
 running by next week.

 pics show some of the progress:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/sets/72157629709054752/


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Re: [RBW] Crank puller help

2012-05-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 1:27 PM, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
 hey all -

 i need some counsel.

 i wrote last week about a front derailler problem (i smashed it into the
 outer chainring by accident, bending the FD and the chainring).

 I have my new chainrings, and am attempting to use my Park Tool CCP 22 crank
 puller to get the driveside crank off.  i have it threaded into the crank
 (sugino xd2) and followed the directions for the tool, but i can't get the
 puller to budge.  I am a pretty strong dude and am putting my might into it,
 to no avail.  Holding non-driveside crank with my right arm, pushing down on
 crank puller with left.

 Any ideas?

 Is it usually pretty easy to get the crank off?

They can be a bit tough but not too bad.  The washer that others have
mentioned is the most frequent problem - with that in there all you
could succeed in doing is ruining the threads.  I've found that
instead of trying to get leverage through the frame (using the
off-side crank) I do better if I can line the crank puller's lever
just off-line with the crank I'm trying to remove so squeezing them
together works to pull the crank.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crank puller help

2012-05-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
If you can only get two thirds of it in then something is still in
there - a bolt, a stack of washers or something similar.  That or the
threads are already fragged.  Maybe a picture of what they look like
would be useful.

The Park should provide plenty of leverage but lining it up near
parallel to the crank arm allows you to use a squeezing motion that
doesn't cause much rotation of the rest of the assembly that you need
to fight.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crank puller help

2012-05-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 1:55 PM, Scott Postlewait chsc...@drizzle.com wrote:
 My guess is there's a washer in there that, for whatever reason, you aren't 
 seeing right now.

Stopping to think about it the washer may not be obvious if you
haven't done this before.  If you look in there and don't see the
_square_ hole of the crank arm where it mates with the spindle then
you've got something still in there.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crank puller help

2012-05-21 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Auto-extractors?

-Ken

On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 3:14 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm a taper greaser.

 (a little confused that you say there's no bolt holding the crank on, but it 
 sounds like it worked out)

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Re: [RBW] Riv Rally midwest?

2012-01-14 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Friday, January 13, 2012, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
thill@gmail.com wrote:
 I'd be willing to put together a Riv Rally Midwest sometime this upcoming
summer. Most likely it would be somewhere between Minneapolis
 and Madison and a 2-day weekend format with camping and hotel options.
Also, most likely there would be ride route options to suit
 different fitness levels and adventurousness thresholds (nothing
extreme).

 Anybody interested?

That depends.  Would I be shunned if I'm not riding a bike from Walnut
Creek?  I sold my Heron so I no longer have a Riv (though I remember
something about the lugs on the Mariposa being modified first generation
Riv lugs) and there's even a chance I'd want to show on the tandem.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] FS Velo Orange 50.4 BCD Crankset and bottom bracket

2011-10-06 Thread Kenneth Stagg
Steve,

Arm length?

-Ken

On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 12:43 PM, notesman sbauman...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Folks, Before I list them on e-bay I have a Velo Orange Gran Cru 50.4
 BCD crankset for sale. This is a high quality copy of the well known
 TA cyclotourist crankset that sells new, when available, for $200.
 This one has less than 100 miles on it and is in virtually new
 condition. (Bolt caps haven't been installed and I have box and
 packing.) This is set up as a 46/30 double. I'm looking for $175
 shipped anywhere in the US except Alaska or Hawaii. I also have a Velo
 Orange 122mm bottom bracket for use with the above for an additional
 $20.
 Thanks for looking.
 steve

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Re: [RBW] why do people like front rando bags?

2011-08-26 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:29 PM, Shifty seandes...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I've been admiring bags and racks on the Rivendell Flicker site:
 http://www.flickr.com/groups/rivendell/pool/tags/ahomerhilsen/ and have been
 pondering the purchase of a larger bag. I've used Acorn Saddlebags for
 awhile now and have been generally content so,why do so many people like
 front rando bags instead of saddlebags? Doesn't the weight foil your quick
 steering ability? And isn't it always better to have weight low and in the
 rear for stabililty? Thanks for your comments and a favorite bag if you've
 found one.

I'm not sure what you mean by front rando bag.  Do you mean a
largish handlebar bag supported on a rack?  If so then I've got to say
I love them, though I use them (at least on the Mariposa) with a
saddlebag, not instead of.

If the bike is designed for them the handling is just fine.  Even with
a load in my handlebar bag (my tools are always there + miscellany)
the Mariposa is the lightest handling bike I've _ever_ ridden.  It's
simply amazing.  But it was designed from the ground up with that bag
in mind.

Both the tandem and the Mariposa have Arkel large handlebar bags that
have been modified to fit on custom racks.  The bikes are also both on
the short side of medium for trail (about 45mm) but I don't know what
else affects their handling.  The tandem, of course, doesn't handle
the same way as the Mariposa but it's not bad at all, and a **lot**
better with that handlebar bag than the Erickson that it replaced.
OTOH, the Erickson is very nice with light loads and narrower tires
that I typically use.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: why do people like front rando bags?

2011-08-26 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 11:10 AM, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 There are some benefits to the front bag, depending on your needs. It's not
 necessary to use only a front bag, and many people combine front and rear
 as needed. Among the benefits are the ability to easily get things from the
 bag while you are riding, the ability to see your bag at all times (less
 likely to leave it open and lose things, for example) and the ability to put
 a map pocket on top.

Right.  I forgot to answer *why* I like them.

Ready access to things like cameras, food, wallet, cell phone, arm
warmers and maps.  Also the map case - I've tried handlebar mounted
map cases before but I don't like them.  The map case on Arkels are
very nice.  I like the saddlebag for its carrying capacity but it's
nothing like as convenient as the handlebar bag.  If you're using wide
enough handlebars the side pockets on the handlebar bag can also hold
water bottles.

Oh, and the rack that the bag mounts on makes a great place to mount a
headlight.  If you mount it off to the side the spill from the light
reflects off of the moving spokes and I've been told by people who've
seen me riding at night in a group that it makes me *much* more
visible from the side.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Was gonna buy a Riv but didnt...

2011-07-22 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Friday, July 22, 2011, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 Two contradictory pieces of learned wisdom about this.
 First, the ego wants wanting more than it wants having.  So, as soon as we 
 satisfy a want, the ego
 move on to wanting something else.  If that weren't true our consumer driven 
 economy would pretty
 much collapse.  Three months after getting a new Riv road bike the owner will 
 read in fantastic
 custom bike review in Bicycle Quarterly and the ego will start wanting again.

I'll admit that I was worried about this when I ordered my Mariposa.
I had never really been satisfied with a bike, I was always lusting
after the next one within months of getting my new one.

Not this time.  I can honestly say that in the 7 years since I got the
Mariposa I haven't lusted after a new bike (other than a tandem - but
that's a different category.)  The reason is simple: I can't imagine
what a different bike would do better for any use to which I would
want to put it.  This was a revelation!

To bring this back on thread, I was actually considering an Atlantis
when I got the Mariposa but the super wide chainstay spacing meant
that I wouldn't have the gearing options that I was interested in
trying and the bottom bracket was higher than I needed.  It wasn't
until after I got the Mariposa that Jan started writing about lower
trail designs and how they affected handling with a front load, but
Mike Barry already knew it and the Mariposa (which was designed for
the handlebar bag it always sports) combines low/medium trail with a
very low bb and a shallow seat tube to incredibly good effect.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: HS

2011-06-20 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 3:15 PM, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I think an IGH bike makes the most sense and possibly even a Rohloff.
 What other IGH would you want to ride off road and take touring? And
 that would put a lot of restrictions on the bike. What else would
 there be left to choose? Brakes would be determined by whether the
 bike was set up for cant-, center, or v. Handlebars would need to be
 25.4 (unless I am not aware of a road bar Rohloff shifter).

It would be very cool if they also made a real shifter for the
Rohloff.  I'm not in the market for a new bike but I'd be very, very
happy to get a bar end shifter that was setup to handle the extra
throw required by the Rohloff!  I'd ditch that damned twist shifter in
a split second.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: HS

2011-06-20 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 4:10 PM, Roger rogerdhod...@gmail.com wrote:
  It would be very cool if they also made a real shifter for the
 Rohloff.  I'm not in the market for a new bike but I'd be very, very
 happy to get a bar end shifter that was setup to handle the extra
 throw required by the Rohloff!  I'd ditch that damned twist shifter in
 a split second.

 I feel the same way about the SA 8-speed I have and its twist shifter.

I'm not familiar with the SA 8-speed.  Is the shifter indexed or just
the hub?  The silly thing about not offering a bar-end or similar for
the Rohloff is that the shifter has no indexing - it's all handled at
the hub - so the only issues are the dual cable setup (easy enough)
and pulling enough cable (more work but doable.)

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Has anyone used trekking / butterfly bars on a Rivendell?

2011-06-01 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Wednesday, June 1, 2011, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
  Reviews and online discussions show that a number of people have found the 
 solution to their comfort/fit problems with these bars, and
 that they're very popular in Europe. Has anyone on this list tried them at 
 all?

Not on my 'Riv' (actually a Heron) but I have the on the tandem but
only because then only  shifter (that I know of at least) for the
Rohloff is the damned twist shifter.  I found that I needed a much
longer stem than when I was using drop bars, but if you're able to
mount your shifter pods out on the reach portion that might take care
of that issue - the twist shifter won't go out there.

All in all I'm not a huge fan but they work OK for me as long as I
keep the rides fairly short and casual.  Anything longer than 40 miles
and I start to really wish for me standard bars.  I keep saying I'm
going to try to work up a bar end shifter for the Rohloff and ditch
the trekking bars for good.

My wife, OTOH, loves them in the stoker's compartment.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: 26 inch light?

2011-01-28 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Fri, Jan 28, 2011 at 11:30 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
 In fact, slick tires probably provide the most traction in wet
 conditions.  Jobst on the subject:

 http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/slicks.html

I won't swear to the science behind this (though it makes sense to me)
but I will say that I've done a lot of riding on slicks (Avocets
mostly) in the Pacific Northwet and never had a problem due to the
tread or lack thereof.  This includes both singles and tandems.  I'm
actually looking for new light, flexible slicks in the 26x1.5 range
for both the tandem and the Mariposa.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO 50.4 BCD Crankset is here

2010-08-20 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 6:57 AM, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.com wrote:
 I don't know about pruckelshaus, but I find that a 170 and a 172.5 feel
 significantly different and it is important on a long ride.

I agree - though for me it works the other way around (i.e. 170 feels
much better - 165 feels better still.)  I definitely understand the
unwillingness to re-acclimate when you've found what works for you!
I've tried all three lengths in one particular crank (Superbe Pro) and
found that I seem to be fairly sensitive to crank length - probably
moreso than Q factor.

If I were in the market for a crankset these - in 165 - would be an
easy choice for me.  Even though I'm not in the market they're still
tempting :)

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Ms Foy for my wife

2010-07-23 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 11:52 AM, MobileBill bud...@mindspring.com wrote:
     2) She has a low tolerance for complicated shifters, and it's
 unlikely she will need a wide gear range _ but I'm not keen on 8-speed
 internal hubs.  Any thoughts on whether an 8-speed cassette with
 single chainring in front can be set up to suit the needs of an
 occasional, inexperienced rider?

How likely is she to try to shift while stopped?  A lot of
inexperienced riders do.  Essentially the IG hub is more foolproof -
it doesn't have the external complexity that can bedevil a beginner
even if it is pretty complex internally (the IG setup is also much
less likely to throw a chain - which can happen far more frequently
than you might think with a single chainring setup!)  You say she has
a low tolerance for complex shifting but how is she for fixing minor
mechanicals (e.g. thrown chain)?  If all she's looking for is to ride
then she may get frustrated pretty quickly with even minor mechanical
issues.

Personally I've got both IG and casette setups and I like them both.
For a cruising around bike I'd pick IG without hesitation.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ms Foy for my wife

2010-07-23 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 2:13 PM, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote:
 135, I believe.

 I dunno -- inexperience only lasts for a few hours on the saddle.

Maybe, maybe not.  My wife has no interest in the technical side of
riding.  We tried for most of a summer to get her up to speed, so to
speak, but she routinely tried to shift when stopped and otherwise
ignored technique.  We ended up going with a tandem - she can ignore
the braking/shifting/steering (except when I screw up, then she's free
to whack me in the helmet!) while still enjoying the ride.  After
discovering she could do 100+ miles on the tandem -vs- no more than 20
on her single the single went away.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Truly Scary Ride

2010-07-22 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Wed, Jul 21, 2010 at 7:31 PM, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 I got a late start on my ride, after lunch,  despite a weather forecast
 of possible thunder storms and heavy rain.

Great timing!  I was planning to head out for a ride this morning
since the thunderstorms were *supposed* to hold off until after
9:00am.  Read your story, looked at the radar again and decided to
exercise some discretion.  The forcast has since changed.

The whole thunderstorm thing is relatively new to me since I've spent
the vast majority of my life around Puget Sound (we probably get more
thunder and lightning each summer here in Wisconsin than I got in 30+
years in Western Washington) but I'm willing to learn :)

Thanks for the report!
-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: tandems and other thoughts

2010-07-16 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 9:08 AM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 just think of it... you could fly to Colo. buy it, pack it up and fly
 home... sound too good to be true.

 I remember reading somewhere it takes a good few hours to assemble a
 coupled tandem.

Mike,

It will depend upon how much you take it apart, if you're working solo
and how proficient you are at assembling it.  When we took our coupled
Erickson to France it only took us a little over one hour to
reassemble it.  With the Bushnell it would probably take quite a bit
less since the disk brakes and Rohloff hub are less fussy than the V
brakes-through-travel-agents and
Shimano-derailleur+Campagnolo-shifters that we had on the Erickson.
OTOH, if you have a larger bike you might have to pull the fork, which
adds time!

Your idea of flying to Colorado to pick up the bike and packing it
home, though, sounds really good!  I'm almost glad that it's too big
for me :)

-Ken, who doesn't really need another tandem but...

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Re: [RBW] You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-16 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 3:18 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed
 You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed
 You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed
 You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed
 You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed
 You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed

That's true.  What you need if you live on a 15% hill is a Rohloff
equipped Quickbeam! :)

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Event ride on Saluki coming up, need advise

2010-07-13 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 11:59 PM, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Sip when thirsty.  Eat a little bit every 25 miles.  If you feel like
 you're pushing a comfortable speed, slow down.  Enjoy!

The only change I'd make to Ryan's advice is to drink before you get
thirsty.  I know that if I wait until I'm thirsty I'm almost
guaranteed to bonk.  If I keep up with drinking a little every 15
minutes or so and never let myself get thirsty I'll be fine.

Definitely second slowing down if you feel you're pushing!

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Whenever I see a photo of Grant's bikes, I want to clean them!

2010-06-29 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 1:32 PM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I look at Grant's bikes and think there is a bike that's put to good
 and proper use. Clean bikes look nice and all, but if it's between
 cleaning a bike and getting out for a ride I'd rather go for a ride.

Ditto.  And if it's between an extra couple of miles on my morning
ride or getting back early enough to clean the bike before work, the
miles win.  I do try to remember to clean each spring but I've been
known to forget.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Hobbies that compliment your Rivendell lifestyle

2010-04-26 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Bridgestone alancr...@mac.com wrote:
 You're an all-steel, tweed, canvas and shellac kind of guy/girl. Has
 owning a Rivendell opened you up to new hobbies?

Well, I started this before I'd heard of Rivendell but I see
woodworking with antique, hand-powered tools to be complimentary.
Other than chopping mortices it's generally peaceful work with an
unrushed pace.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: Where are you and when will you take the fenders off for the dry season?

2010-03-27 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 10:02 AM, George Schick bhim...@gmail.com wrote:
 As others have said, I have fenders on all my bikes, including one
 dual banger MTB, and leave 'em on all year around.  In addition to the
 unpredictable weather here in the upper Midwest, I ride mostly on
 trails converted from old railroad ROW's that have been surfaced over
 with finely crushed limestone tailings.  This stuff gets very dusty
 during dry months and I have found that the fenders keep the brakes
 and headset, in particular, from getting gunked up as much.  They also
 protect the paint from rock chips.

Upper Midwest here as well and all of my bikes have fenders year
round.  The Mariposa arrived with fenders installed and they've never
been off :)

Agreed about the crushed limestone trails.  We have the Wildgoose
Trail just a couple of miles away and, while it's not my favorite
riding venue - the limestone surface is noisy and dusty and  where
it's not a complete cover the trail can be pretty slippery when it's
wet - it's convenient for some rides.

-Ken

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Re: [RBW] Re: TCO in general..

2010-02-03 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 11:37 AM, james black chocot...@gmail.com wrote:
 ... I
 am mildly annoyed and feel vaguely insulted by the point of view I
 sometimes encounter that TCO is an imaginary problem, or that I'm some
 kind of dimwit because it bothers me. There are other cyclists
 (customers) like me - bike designers should be attentive to this fact.

I agree.  That's the part of this whole debate that bothers me.  It's
not that those of us who care about it can't appreciate that some
people don't, it's that some people try to tell us it's an imaginary
problem and that we should just get over it.

On a single I'm willing to put up with some TCO, though I'm very glad
that Mike Barry designed my Mariposa without it.  On a tandem I would
not consider putting up with it - it's too dangerous when the person
controlling the bike doesn't have complete control of the pedals.

-Ken

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[RBW] Re: What to do after a rain ride?

2009-09-14 Thread Kenneth Stagg

On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 12:53 PM, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 I put a couple of hours on the (fendered) Atlantis in a light rain
 this Saturday.  Afterwards I lubed the chain, pulled out the stem to
 check for water intrusion (there was none) and wiped the gray junk off
 the rims.

 I'm curious what others do to their bikes after riding in the rain?

Nothing other than making sure I park it where it won't get anything
else overly wet.

-Ken

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[RBW] Re: standover height

2009-08-13 Thread Kenneth Stagg

On Mon, Aug 10, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Jan Heinehein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 The answer is simple: Standover clearance never is a safety issue
 even for an only mildly experienced rider.

Jan,

Not so much for safety but the one place where I will insist on
standover clearance is on a tandem.  I don't feel at all comfortable
trying to hold the bike for the stoker to mount while I have a foot
off the ground.

I agree completely about toe overlap, and it's a worse hazard for me
on the tandem because a) there are more times I'm going slow enough
for it to be an issue and b) the captain doesn't complete control of
the pedals on most tandems.

I realize that bringing up tandems on RBW may not be completely
on-topic but they're definitely bicycles and there are some people
here other than Jan and me who ride them.

-Ken

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