[RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis 2 sizing ? Inquiring about a local sale

[Matt B.]

That's definitely a 58, going by the size of the wheels (700c).  They do 
say they measured 56cm center to center, whereas Rivendell uses center to 
top.

On Saturday, May 6, 2023 at 2:44:24 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:

> It’s this one. If it wasn’t an hour each way I’d go check it out myself. 
>
>  
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bid/d/tacoma-rivendell-atlantis-complete-bike/7617558417.html
>
> On Saturday, May 6, 2023 at 8:35:34 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> This one? Looks like a 58 to me. 
>>
>>
>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/bik/d/santa-cruz-rivendell-atlantis-touring/7618050500.html
>>
>> On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 10:46:01 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> What do you think the numbers should be?  For sure you can't fake or 
>>> mistake 700c.  If it's an Atlantis 2, it's old.  The newer ones have the 
>>> newer decals and no '2'.  If it's 700c and old, the smallest it could 
>>> possibly be is a 58.  If it's a 58 it would be 58cm center to top and darn 
>>> close to 56cm center to center.  The standover seems spot on for a 58.  A 
>>> 58 should have more like a 58.5cm effective top tube, center to center, so 
>>> that's the one discrepancy.  I'd bet a dollar that it's an unreliable 
>>> measurer, and that it's a 58.  
>>>
>>> How much do they want for it?  Do you have a link?
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 10:07:29 AM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 There is an Atlantis 2 for sale nearby. They are reporting a 56cm 
 ST/57cm TT with 700c wheels and 84cm standover. 

 This sizing seems off to me for a 700c. Anyone have any insight ? Is 
 this a custom?

 Eliot

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking about getting a 62 Quickbeam

[Matt B.]

The final version of quickbeam, which came with silver paint, did have a 
kickstand plate. The QB never had those fork dropouts though as those came 
later on the hunqapillar in about 2011 or so.  My guess is that ebay 
listing is a simpleone with canti posts removed.

On Tuesday, October 18, 2022 at 3:40:17 PM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:

> I think some SO frames had caliper brakes, but they only went up to a 62cm 
> size. Though I don’t recall the QB had a kickstand plate. Maybe the later 
> ones did. 
>
> But why would anyone take off canti posts to use caliper brakes? “Hey, 
> let’s take off my powerful and light brakes and put on something without 
> any power in the wet. That’ll be exciting!”
>
> Sorry. Don’t get me started on long reach brakes. 
>
> Eric
>
> On Tuesday, October 18, 2022, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> Not in this size*, and the SimpleOne was canti as well. This appears to 
>> be a QB with the canti studs knocked off, then the clearcoat done. Also 
>> it's a 64cm. 
>>
>> *Some small silver QBs had caliper brakes. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 18, 2022 at 12:14:07 PM UTC-7 Matt Beecher wrote:
>>
>>> Did the QB ever come without cantis?  I would assume that is a 
>>> Simpleone.  
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 18, 2022 at 1:02:56 PM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:
>>>

 Hello Tom,

 Not mine, but a nice looking 62 QB frame/fork on the bay now...


 https://www.ebay.com/itm/364015264475?hash=item54c10022db:g:SzwAAOSwD79jEA9r=enc%3AAQAHoHwOqNWKMXHgc3oWyVn7pYPofBnuW5KG%2BoPQYyGHw3W5Fsfi278BWZin%2FGqnOZzDrWipsEVRl3DPDOIhASKUW968jEuKj49QYo3jTAqPBpMecpPHLrK2mmAyrgkZAI1sTF0XB2epZ4zk52Mkr4rj3WPFqdkj9wfeClKfmTrIuEUKfAJ%2F2QGA18n2Idq1vJd9pnww4UQOZqCh0ds1J9j5jn0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7CYj8T9YA

 On Tuesday, October 18, 2022 at 10:17:13 AM UTC-4 tc wrote:

> Hey group,
> If anyone is thinking about selling or trading a 62 Quickbeam in good 
> condition, I'd like to discus with you - thanks.
>
> Tom
>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS New Sackville Hoard found, trunk sacks, saddle sacks, backabikes, discontinued items

[Matt B.]

Got my bag safe and sound, thanks a lot Alex.  

On Thursday, April 14, 2022 at 6:20:07 AM UTC-4 Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
Haus Bicycles wrote:

> One last bump before I move these over to flea bay/facespace 
>
> Cheers!
>
>
> (2) Blue trunk sacks $105 each
> (1) Blue flap $15 each
> (6) Yellow Haus Wunder Sac (snack/handlebar bag) $75 
> (1) Blue bagabond $200
> (2) Tan hub shiners $10 each
> (2) Brown hub shiners $10 each
>
> On Monday, April 4, 2022 at 10:36:47 PM UTC-4 Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
> Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
>> Last grey trunk sack sold.
>>
>> On Monday, April 4, 2022 at 2:35:34 PM UTC-4 Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
>> Haus Bicycles wrote:
>>
>>> Another update, thanks all!
>>>
>>> (2) Blue trunk sacks $105 each
>>> (1) Grey trunk sacks $105 each
>>> (1) Blue flaps $15 each
>>> (6) Yellow Haus Wunder Sac (snack/handlebar bag) $75 
>>> (1) Blue bagabond $200
>>> (2) Tan hub shiners $10 each
>>> (2) Brown hub shiners $10 each
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>>
>>> Alex Wirth in Rochester, NY
>>> On Mon, Apr 4, 2022 at 1:38 PM Matt Beecher  wrote:
>>>
 It was not the first time my responses to Alex went without reply, but 
 we have that worked out now.  I also had looked at what his email was and 
 assumed the numbers@gmail was Google Group obscuring his real email 
 address.  

 On Monday, April 4, 2022 at 12:13:31 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Yes, the PM interface on Google Groups is miserable. I would encourage 
> all list members to use direct email addresses and be patient with 
> sellers. 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Monday, April 4, 2022 at 9:27:14 AM UTC-7 Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
> Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
>> Large blue saddle sack sold
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 4, 2022 at 11:13 AM Alex Wirth <482...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> For clarity here’s an updated list as of right now:
>>>
>>> (2) Blue trunk sacks $105 each
>>> (2) Grey trunk sacks $105 each
>>> (7) Blue flaps $15 each
>>> (1) Brown flap $15 each
>>> (6) Yellow Haus Wunder Sac (snack/handlebar bag) $75 
>>> (1) Blue saddle sack large $220
>>> (1) Blue bagabond $200
>>> (1) Blue saddle sack x-small $70
>>> (2) Blue backabike panniers $250 for the set (will not separate)
>>> (2) Tan hub shiners $10 each
>>> (2) Brown hub shiners $10 each
>>>
>>> Pretty sure most of these are unobtainium from Riv (either 
>>> discontinued or not available at the moment)
>>>
>>>
>>> any 2 trunk sacks for $180
>>> any two shiners $15
>>> any 2 flaps for $25
>>>
>>> All prices are plus shipping, PayPal F or CashApp preferred 
>>> (although PayPal G is ok if we don't know each other)
>>>
>>> Please email me directly at the email address above with your 
>>> mailing address and I’ll get you sorted lickety split.
>>>
>>> Thanks all!
>>>
>>> Alex
>>>
>>> On Mon, Apr 4, 2022 at 10:33 AM Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus 
>>> Bicycles <482...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 Olive flaps are sold

 On Monday, April 4, 2022 at 10:21:36 AM UTC-4 Alex Wirth- Owner, 
 Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:

> Apologies to those that think I ignored them.  GMAIL can sometimes 
> put "DM" replies in spam, going back and replying now.
>
> It's always a good idea to send emails directly to someone's email 
> (some did in this case and we synced up quickly)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alex
>
> On Sunday, April 3, 2022 at 10:36:10 PM UTC-4 Alex Wirth- Owner, 
> Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
>> Small saddle sack is sold
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 1:16 PM Alex Wirth <482...@gmail.com> 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Large grey saddle sack is sold
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 10:31 AM Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus 
>>> Bicycles <482...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 Some updates as of today, I found another big box of Sackville 
 stuff (from our old shop):

 (2) Blue trunk sacks $105 each
 (2) Grey trunk sacks $105 each
 (7) Blue flaps $15 each
 (2) Olive flaps $15 each
 (1) Brown flap $15 each
 (6) Yellow Haus Wunder Sac (snack/handlebar bag) $75 
 (1) Blue saddle sack large $220
 (1) Grey saddle sack large $220
 (1) Blue bagabond $200
 (1) Blue saddle sack small $145
 (1) Blue saddle sack x-small $70
 (2) Blue backabike panniers $250 for the set (will not separate)
 (2) Tan hub shiners $10 each
 (2) Brown hub shiners $10 each

 Pretty sure most of these are unobtainium from Riv (either 
 discontinued or not available at the moment)


 any 

[RBW] Re: FS New Sackville Hoard found, trunk sacks, saddle sacks, backabikes, discontinued items

[Matt B.]

PM'd regarding blue saddlesack large.

On Sunday, April 3, 2022 at 10:31:00 AM UTC-4 Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
Haus Bicycles wrote:

> Some updates as of today, I found another big box of Sackville stuff (from 
> our old shop):
>
> (2) Blue trunk sacks $105 each
> (2) Grey trunk sacks $105 each
> (7) Blue flaps $15 each
> (2) Olive flaps $15 each
> (1) Brown flap $15 each
> (6) Yellow Haus Wunder Sac (snack/handlebar bag) $75 
> (1) Blue saddle sack large $220
> (1) Grey saddle sack large $220
> (1) Blue bagabond $200
> (1) Blue saddle sack small $145
> (1) Blue saddle sack x-small $70
> (2) Blue backabike panniers $250 for the set (will not separate)
> (2) Tan hub shiners $10 each
> (2) Brown hub shiners $10 each
>
> Pretty sure most of these are unobtainium from Riv (either discontinued or 
> not available at the moment)
>
>
> any 2 trunk sacks for $180
> any two shiners $15
> any 2 flaps for $25
>
> All prices are plus shipping, PayPal F or CashApp preferred (although 
> PayPal G is ok if we don't know each other)
>
> Cheers!!
>
> Alex Wirth in Rochester, NY
>
> [image: IMG-0407.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Toyo Atlantis Fleecer Ridge

[Matt B.]

No experience with the tires, but you might want to double check the wheel 
size on the bike if you haven't gotten it yet.   I think the 56 Toyo 
Atlantis had 26" wheels-- though pretty sure RH does sell a 2.3" wide 
knobby in 26" also.   Congrats on scoring an original version Atlantis.

On Sunday, June 13, 2021 at 10:21:50 PM UTC-4 brettb...@gmail.com wrote:

> Greetings! This is my first post as I just took ownership of a 56cm 700c 
> Toyo Atlantis and am wondering if anyone has tried fitting the Rene Herse 
> 700x55 Fleecer Ridge knobbies on one. If not I’d be happy with the Oracle 
> Ridge, but like the idea of hitting the trails with the 55’s. Thanks -Brett
>
> Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [RBW] Comparing Rivendell Bikes to the old Bridgestones: Has anyone here experienced both a Rambouillet and an RB-T?

[Matt B.]

I have a '91 62cm RBT and agree it feels more sprite than my Rivendells, 
maybe with the exception of the 64cm Quickbeam.  I attribute the RBT's 
liveliness to standard diameter tubing (1" TT, 1 1/8" DT), since I have the 
same feeling on any the bikes I've owned or still own from the 80's when 
they all had this tubing diameter.   In smaller sizes like ~50cm I think 
the flexibility of the narrower tubing gets swallowed up by the compactness 
of the front triangle.

Matt

On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 10:55:31 PM UTC-5 Nathan Mattia wrote:

> I had a 1992 50cm RB-T that was too small for me, no matter what I did to 
> it.  It was my first Bridgestone.  It felt neither lively, nor spritely.  
>
> But for some reason, this 56cm RB-T (same year) most definitely feels 
> supple.  I haven't ridden enough to know if it's planing or not, but my 
> guess would be no. It's just a lot faster than my Hillborne and my 
> Expedition.   Both were 700c wheels with stock parts.  It may be 
> counter-intuitive, but I think the larger frame helps with the feel.  
>
> It's just interesting to me that the 92 Bridgestone Catalog describes the 
> RB-T as being their Road-ish fire-trail capable bike, pretty much just like 
> Riv is describing a Sam Hillborne now.  But the bikes are not the same.
>
> I would like to try a Ram sometime, or even a Roadini.  I think I would 
> still want Moustache bars, though.  I can't stand the posture of drops.
>
> On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 11:53:50 AM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I've not ridden an RBT, but I have extensively ridden a blue-model (later 
>> one, I think, with more tire clearance) Ram and I *think* you'll find it 
>> spritely. Mine didn't "plane" for me that way that the best frames I've 
>> ridden have*, but it didn't at all feel sluggish in acceleration or for 
>> that matter handling, tho' I did prefer the slightly quicker turn-in of my 
>> 26" wheel road bikes.
>>
>> I don't know the tubing specs, but I doubt they were especially 
>> thick-walled.
>>
>> *I use "planing" provisionally; in my case it might not be planing as Jan 
>> describes it; it's just that some bikes encourage "1 cog smaller". The Ram 
>> didn't, but again, it didn't ever feel as if it held me back.
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 9:46 AM Nathan Mattia  
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> *Has anyone here ridden both the Rambouillet AND an RB-T?  *Looking at 
>>> it’s geometry, the RB-T is very similar to geometry of a Rivendell 
>>> Rambouillet, more than a Hillborne or a Homer. 
>>>
>>> My RB-T is 56cm, so that's what I'm comparing and I was struck by the 
>>> similarities to the Rambouillet.  Note the level top-tube, similar 
>>> Standover heights, Seat-tube and Head-tube angles,  bottom bracket drop, 
>>> and chainstay lengths.  Do they ride similarly?  I don’t know.  But they 
>>> look almost the same.
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_5225.jpeg]
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_5226.jpeg]
>>>
>>>  In Rivendell Reader 32 from the Spring of 2004, Grant Petersen recalls 
>>> his time at Bridgestone and makes these proclamations:
>>>
>>> “Set up a scale from 1 to 100, and let’s agree to call our current 
>>> Rivendell customs a 100, and a Magna (department store) mountain bike a 5.
>>>
>>> The high-end Bstones were 45s, and the middle ones were 35s. [Let’s call 
>>> an RB-T a “40” then, in Grant’s estimation]. Comparably priced production 
>>> bikes in the late ‘80s and ‘90s were in the low 30s. Some of the better 
>>> production bikes in the early ‘80s—especially ’81 through ’85 (Specialized 
>>> Expedition, Sequoia, Centurion Dave Scott, Miyata 600)—were in the low 50s, 
>>> about 55. The Toyo-built bikes are 87s. “  
>>>
>>> Given this scale, I’d actually put the RB-T closer to a 75.  It's that 
>>> good.  
>>> If Grant wanted to place it in the Riv lineup today and move it up to an 
>>> 87, he’d just add 2 cm to the stays, put more eyelets on the frame for 
>>> racks and give it slightly bigger tire clearances.
>>>
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2020-11-20 at 11.00.47 PM.png]
>>>
>>> Here’s what I know:  I like the flexiness of the RB-T frame.  I like how 
>>> quickly it gets up to speed.  I like to push it around downhill curves.  It 
>>> is NOT the work of art that is my Rivendell Sam Hillborne.   I take Samwise 
>>> when I want to forget about the effort of the ride and become one with the 
>>> beauty all around me.  I take the RB-T when I want to go fast and become 
>>> one with my bike.
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 

[RBW] Re: 60 cm Quickbeam on CL Sacramento

[Matt B.]

 That's not the original fork; might be worth asking about if you're a 
potential buyer.

-Matt

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Re: [RBW] 650b new Rivendell models (to me)

[Matt B.]

On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 12:13:55 PM UTC-4, James Valiensi wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Standover clearance is really over rated. I find that I never stand over 
> my bike with both feet on the ground and the bike frame perpendicular to 
> the ground. At stops, my right foot is on the peddle and the bike is 
> leaning to towards the left. So this adds clearance. I start off by leaning 
> the bike towards my left side and swinging my right leg over, and clipping 
> in the right pedal. When a start to move, I stand on the right pedal and 
> lift myself on to the saddle. So, never is top tube clearance an issue. 
> I’ve ridden bikes that had top tubes much higher than my crotch and it was 
> not a problem. 
>

Couldn't agree with this more. The most important things in sizing is the 
reach, stack, and ST angle. I do prefer frames where the top tube sits just 
beneath my leg when stopped with one foot on the ground, so I can kind of 
sit on the TT without bending my grounded leg, which allows me to 
comfortably stabilize the bike when at a stoplight or reading a map.  That 
usually happens when I have no more than 2-3cm of actual stand over 
clearance.

-Matt

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Custom Paint Color Help

[Matt B.]

Bark brown looks great on a bike, and would accentuate the gold and cream 
bat-wing decals nicely.   +1 regarding no contrasting headtube.   


On Saturday, June 13, 2020 at 10:36:22 AM UTC-4, Birdman wrote:
>
> Hey Bunch, 
>
> The bottom bracket shell replacement on my Quickbeam is going well and it 
> will be headed to wet paint at Black Magic Paint next week. I could use 
> some advice. 
>
> For a while I had planned on going with a version of Mark’s custom pink. 
> Next I was convinced that it should be a PurpleRiv purple. Then I settled 
> on a very slightly metallic British Racing Green, as an homage to the 
> original QB green and the to Ents the world over. 
>
> Now that the time has come, I’m not so sure anymore. Also, I’m slightly 
> color blind, so colors are not my strong suit. 
>
> Design constraints: 
> 1. I can go with a single coat, or add a 2nd color for the head tube. 
> 2. It will sport the original decals and head badge (gold with cream). 
> 3. I want it to be a color that’s in keeping with the Riv aesthetic and 
> color pallet. 
>
> Any thoughts or recommendations? 
>
> Isaac in Portland OR

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Custom Paint Color Help

[Matt B.]

I like Riv's mustard / autumn yellow.   I've seen it on a few customs, and 
think the original clementines also came in that color. 


On Saturday, June 13, 2020 at 10:36:22 AM UTC-4, Birdman wrote:
>
> Hey Bunch, 
>
> The bottom bracket shell replacement on my Quickbeam is going well and it 
> will be headed to wet paint at Black Magic Paint next week. I could use 
> some advice. 
>
> For a while I had planned on going with a version of Mark’s custom pink. 
> Next I was convinced that it should be a PurpleRiv purple. Then I settled 
> on a very slightly metallic British Racing Green, as an homage to the 
> original QB green and the to Ents the world over. 
>
> Now that the time has come, I’m not so sure anymore. Also, I’m slightly 
> color blind, so colors are not my strong suit. 
>
> Design constraints: 
> 1. I can go with a single coat, or add a 2nd color for the head tube. 
> 2. It will sport the original decals and head badge (gold with cream). 
> 3. I want it to be a color that’s in keeping with the Riv aesthetic and 
> color pallet. 
>
> Any thoughts or recommendations? 
>
> Isaac in Portland OR

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[RBW] Re: Alternative to Halfmitts?

[Matt B.]

I wish Riv would bring back the half-mitts!  They also work great over wool 
gripper gloves; I can ride in temps down into the teens no problem that 
way.  Anyway I have two pairs and have used the heck out of them.   I have 
had to stitch them back together a couple times when the original thread 
has failed.


On Tuesday, December 10, 2019 at 8:36:48 PM UTC-5, ted wrote:
>
> Actually in the SF Bay Area half mits without gloves under are the bees 
> knees. Keep your fingers from getting cold when you start out, and easily 
> slip you fingers out if they start to get too warm. For descents or clouds 
> blocking nature’s heat lamp that start to chill your didgits, just slip em 
> back into the mitts. Brilliant I tell you, brilliant.

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[RBW] Re: Things I wish Rivendell still sold..

[Matt B.]

Another one for the Half Mitts, the sherpa lined ones. Best 'bicycle' 
clothing I've ever had, especially for the price.


On Monday, November 12, 2018 at 2:00:11 AM UTC-5, Bob B wrote:
>
> May be the only one but... MUSA Mitts!! Anyone got a NOS pair gathering 
> dust PM me. My trust much-loved pair is wearing thin!

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam Headtube Sizes?

[Matt B.]

On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 3:17:30 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I use headtube length as a quick visual estimation of frame size. "No way 
> that ad is really for a 57cm bike!" 
>
>
This usually works for me too but only if factoring in tire clearance.  For 
instance a 60cm cross check has a headtube (not counting the extension 
above the TT) that looks about the same length as a 57cm classic 80's road 
bike, but that's because the cross check has an axle-to-crown distance of 
like 400mm. Same thing would be true of the Quickbeam since it has similar 
tire clearance, except it has a 2' upslope to the tt which cancels that out 
and makes the HT look normal for the size again. 

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[RBW] WTB: Quickbeam Suzue wheels

[Matt B.]

Hi All,

I'm looking for a set of wheels for my QB, preferably with the Suzue 
free/free type hubs that originally came with it.  TIA

Matt

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Matt B.]

On Tuesday, June 12, 2018 at 2:01:25 PM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:
>
>
> I’m on the opposite end. I’m hoping it’s a lugged, cream heat tube, rim 
> brake compatible frame with clearance over 2.5”. I’m not needing 3”. And 
> I’m not proselytizing, just stating my own preference. I prefer cantis to 
> discs for a few reasons. (And I do have a bike with cable disc brakes, no 
> hydraulics through). I prefer the aesthetics and the modes that I have to 
> eliminate brake rub. I find keeping rim brakes in good working order is a 
> more fun process than doing so with discs, which sometimes gets in my head 
> and drives me mad. 
>
> Me hearing brake rub could probably be a Poe short story. 
>
> -Jim W 
>


I'm with you, Jim. My experience is also limited to cable discs, but I 
appreciate and the simplicity and shade-tree serviceability of rim brakes, 
and I actually kind of enjoy making my cantilevers stop plenty well for my 
needs in dry, wet, or snow.

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[RBW] Re: Is this an insane idea?

[Matt B.]

On Thursday, June 7, 2018 at 8:52:58 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I demonstrated you can build a bolt-on bike without altering an original 
> frame (this time 60-y-o).  There are enough options out there to build this 
> correctly, I would be against spreading the frame to 130mm, etc.  The 
> original QB frame deserves that level of respect.  
>


Agreed! One of the nice things about the QB or any frame with 120mm rear 
width is that you typically run a narrow BB, and/or can run fairly low-Q 
cranks with almost zero chances of grazing your heels on the chainstays.  I 
am using the stock QB crank with digital shifting (and a Dos Eno 
freewheel). 

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[RBW] Re: FS - Orange Quickbeam complete - 64 c-to-c

[Matt B.]

I'm pretty sure this one would have been labeled a 66cm originally, if it's 
64 c-t-c.  Riv sizing is center to top.  Geometry chart is on cyclofiend's 
site here:  http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/pdf/quickbeam_geometry.pdf



On Monday, April 23, 2018 at 4:56:06 PM UTC-4, John G. wrote:
>
> No affiliation, but I want to plug this. I’ve only owned my QuickBeam for 
> about two months, but I think I have more fun on it than almost any other 
> bike I own.  This is around what I paid for mine, and for me it was worth 
> every penny. Of the three Rivendell’s I’ve owned (Atlantis, Hunq, and QB) 
> it’s my favorite model, though that’s probably because it’s most suited to 
> the vast majority of riding I currently do. 
>
> For sizing reference. I have a 90 PBH and could probably do a 62 or 64.

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[RBW] Re: From the Blug: Tall Roadeo

[Matt B.]

I'm pretty sure they don't insert the (new) seatpost fully in mockups such 
as these to avoid adding scratches prior to delivery to the owner.  The 
rider can then dial in their own seat height.

 

On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 10:43:55 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> 64 cm Roadeo; that's c-c, right? And then add the four* fistfuls of 
> seatpost and the Technomic (I guess) stem that, even with all that quill, 
> leave the bar below saddle. All this is a runup to the:
>
> Question: how tall must Customer Jack be?
>
> Frankly, tho' I prefer drops to M bars, and tho i'd prefer a bigger ring 
> and smaller cogs, I'd ride that setup if it were about 6" smaller.
>
> *And*, the Blug speaks of "fattish" tires. I know that the size of the 
> bike makes the tires look narrower than if they were on a 51, but still, 
> those aren't fat even by my retrogrouchy standards. I'd guess 32 mm?
>
> * This is an instance of the rhetorical device the ancient Greeks named 
> "ὑπερβολή", huperbolay or, in modern English, hyperbole. 
>
> Patrick Moore, who wouldn't mind a much smaller Roadeo if it had drop bars 
> and a silver drivetrain.
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
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> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
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> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis fork axle to crown

[Matt B.]

I'd send an email or call Rivendell just to be sure. I don't own an 
Atlantis but have a an all-rounder similar to it and the axle-to-crown 
length is 400mm.


On Wednesday, March 14, 2018 at 6:04:39 PM UTC-4, mkernan...@gmail.com 
wrote:
>
> Hey there group,  specifically Atlantis owners, would a couple of you be 
> able to take measurements of the axle to criwn length on your Atlantis 
> forks?   Im sure they are going to differ slightly because of all the 
> different versions over the years.   Thank you!!   -Mike

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[RBW] Re: How do ye determine your saddle height.

[Matt B.]

PBH minus 11cm is a really good place to start, but many folks don't have a 
good measurement of their PBH.  Another good way to set saddle height is to 
raise it to where your heels can not quite reach the pedals at the bottom 
of the pedal stroke, but the balls of your feet can.   

Either one of these starting points may wind up putting the saddle a bit 
too high or a bit too low - so whichever method you use to set the saddle 
height, you normally have to adjust it as you ride.  One way to tell if 
it's to high is to gauge whether your hips rock noticeably side to side as 
you pedal.   On the other hand, your saddle may be too low if the fronts of 
your knees begin to hurt and your legs feel cramped as though you've been 
doing the limbo dance.  

For all-day riding, a correct/comfortable saddle height is sensitive even 
to changes in footwear or pedals, i.e. it has to be within a cm of the 
right spot or you'll feel it in your legs or back.


On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 2:12:14 AM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> RBW’s PBH-11cm or some other method?

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[RBW] Re: 60/62cm Quickbeam Owners: Head Tube Length?

[Matt B.]

I'm going to guess ~2cm taller, since the QBs all had the same ST and TT 
angles AFAIK, and the TT on the 62 is only 1cm longer.  It's none of my 
business but if you're trying to dial-in handlebar height, you have to be 
careful with HT length measurements without also considering axle to crown 
distance (which I think is about 39cm on the QB- much larger than on many 
older frames with less tire clearance).


On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 7:55:15 PM UTC-5, sameness wrote:
>
> Awesome, thanks Philip!
>
> Can anyone with a 62cm provide me with a measurement?
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: A Homer Hilsen, between 57 and 59: how to decide?

[Matt B.]

I'd go with the 59.


On Sunday, December 31, 2017 at 1:01:39 AM UTC-5, John W wrote:
>
> Happy holidays, everyone. 
>
> I’m currently seriously considering putting myself on the queue list for 
> an AHH, although who knows how long i’ll be waiting. I would benefit 
> greatly from some sizing advice. 
>
> I’m 182cm tall, with a 85 PBH and about a 74cm saddle height for most 
> bikes. I intend to run drop bars about dead level with the saddle. 
>
> Should I go with a 57 or 59cm, or another size that I’m not considering? I 
> have a slight preference for running 700c tires. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Matt B.]

+1 that table seems spot on. Saddle height 81, QB size 64


On Sunday, December 17, 2017 at 3:55:17 AM UTC-5, Corwin wrote:
>
> The production run of Quickbeams seems to match the suggested size 
> recommendations. My PBH is 88. Saddle height is approximately 78 cm. My 
> Quickbeam is a 62cm frame. When I test rode the Qucikbeam at Rivendell in 
> late 2004, Grant said I could ride a 60 or 62 cm Quickbeam - exactly as the 
> table suggests.
>
> Namaste,
>
>
> Corwin
>
> On Friday, December 15, 2017 at 3:43:16 PM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>>
>> Hmm ... was the actual production Quickbeam & SimpleOne recommended 
>> sizing different from what that reader article posted?  I was not able to 
>> find any other PBH- or saddle height-based QB sizing info.
>>
>> On Friday, December 15, 2017 at 6:03:25 PM UTC-5, iamkeith wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks for posting.  It's interesting reading the old pre-release stuff, 
>>> and comparing to how it came out in the end.  Did Curt and Joe actually 
>>> build the first QBs, or did they go straight to Panasonic?  Anybody know?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Carradice Camper Longflap or something similar in volume and design

[Matt B.]

I'm a fan of the nelson and camper longflap bags.  Dorky as they may be I 
have one on every bike I own. I actually prefer the older style without the 
nylon drawstring inner closure, I found it kinda gets in the way for how I 
use the bag, i.e. cramming stuff in the sides without even unbuckling most 
of the time.  

Matt

On Friday, November 3, 2017 at 4:02:27 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> For quick on 'n' off with the original issue Moustache bar on the Hon Solo.
>
> Sheesh, I've owned what, 3 or 5 of these, not to mention any number of 
> Nelson LFs and the Rivendell alternatives, and I've sold them on. So of 
> course, here I am, looking for another one, if its affordable.
>
> I'd like to get one of the newer models, with the nylon drawstring neck 
> around the main compartment.
>
> The image below shows what I want to do with it; only, again, I want it 
> for the Hon Solo.
>
> There is just about 15 inches between the bottom of the Moustache bar and 
> the top of the headlight, and I am interested I'm open to alternatives to 
> the saddlebag model, in fact, in any sort of bag that can carry more or 
> less the equivalent of 2 plastic grocery store sacks and that will strap 
> quickly to the Moustache bar.
>
> The otherwise much improved Rivendell Saddlesack design will *not* work 
> here -- too sticky-outy in the horizontal plane. And to expensive, withal.
>
> As Justin Wilson said when asked, "What wine goes with your gumbo?" 
>
> "Whatcha got?"
>
> [image: Inline image 1]
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
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> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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[RBW] Re: Oh Boy Got the '96 All Rounder Repainted

[Matt B.]

Fabulous!  Well done sir.  I'm curious about the fork- is it custom?  
Danged nice AR you have there man.


On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 11:45:12 PM UTC-4, Craig Montgomery wrote:
>
> After 2 decades of beating the doo-doo out of my All Rounder I broke down 
> and got it repainted. Omar at Oasis Custom Cycles in Glendale (100 miles 
> away because Tucson doesn't have a frame painter) did an excellent better 
> than original job of doing the classic XO-1 burnt orange. And then I got 
> this bug up my derriere. My recessive anglophile genes started mutating 
> into dominance.I think my soul was invaded by some ancient Druidic spirit 
> and I decided to try box lining the frame (to the notes of Rule Britannia 
> pounding my psyche). Spent hours staring at the Bicycle Pin Striping 
> Flickr  https://www.flickr.com/groups/971940@N22/ and my Jack Taylor, and 
> Condor, and Holdsworth, and Mercians, and my Bates. So I grabbed a paint 
> pen from Hobby Lobby and went to town. Enjoy Rivophiles. 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> Craig in Tucson
>

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[RBW] Re: First Rivendell - A.Homer Hilsen

[Matt B.]

Nice build!  Cambridge and the surrounding area is an awesome place to ride.

On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 12:49:17 PM UTC-4, brightlamp wrote:
>
> Hi --
>
> Wanted to say hello and add that I really enjoy the RBW OwnersBrunch 
> listserv!  After a long hiatus from cycling I wanted to get back into 
> riding but with a more relaxed pace. After much research and lurking here I 
> made the jump purchased from a member of this group (Hi Jeff!) my first 
> Rivendell (AHH) and lve this bike! She's a pleasure to ride - smooth 
> like poetry and so lovely to look at. She from 2011 and was never 
> assembled, so I got the the honor of creating a bike that is exactly what I 
> want and need. Vince and Mark at Rivendell helped me pick out the 
> components and Cambridge Bike School put her together for me. My daily 
> commuting bike and weekend family rides. Looking forward to getting the 
> family to take longer rides, so I may run into some of you in the 
> Cambridge/Boston area!
>
> warmly--
> laura lamp
> Cambridge MA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Who's ridden a Steamroller and can compare to the Quickbeam?

[Matt B.]

On Friday, October 20, 2017 at 10:04:45 PM UTC-4, tc wrote:
>
>
> With my 90(.5) PBH, that 60cm QB on eBay is a tad small. Will confirmed 
> I'd ride a 62...
>


I have a 90(.5) pbh and easily ride a 64 QB, so you might keep an eye out 
for those as well.  

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[RBW] Re: Wrecked my Atlantis

[Matt B.]

Ouch! That sucks, especially with the other guy adding insult to injury. 
Really glad to hear you're OK man. 

I wouldn't be surprised if your Atlantis can't be made good as new--  I 
bent a fork pretty badly on my touring bike a few years ago and that was 
fixable (no damage evident to the HT or DT).  Also just this summer bent 
the fork on my Quickbeam when a falling tree landed on my front wheel in a 
freak JRA incident. The fork was bent and a cantilever boss was sheared off 
that time-- luckily Riv sent me a replacement fork for reasonable money, 
but otherwise I think the old fork is fixable with some proper re-alignment 
and a torch.



On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 7:30:11 PM UTC-4, John G. wrote:
>
> Yesterday, at 5:30 in the morning, I collided head-on with another 
> cyclist. I was on a path along the Hudson river on the Jersey side, and the 
> guy had no lights.  And I went over the bars. 
>
>  Thankfully, I'm all right, but my Atlantis is pretty messed up,  and I'd 
> like to get the lists advice . The fork is badly bent, and my local shop 
> thinks that the Head tube maybe messed up. They're stripping  it down and 
> sending it to Bilenky to see if it can be realigned. Do any of you think 
> that's a bad move?
>
>  I don't want to think about how much worse it would've been if I had been 
> riding a carbon bike.  I'm pretty bummed. The worst part is that the other 
> guy swore at me and threw my water bottle at me while I was lying on the 
> ground.  Called me some names I won't repeat here, and rode off before I 
> was even able to get up.   Sometimes I really hate riding around here.
>
> Anyway, be safe out there and hug your Rivendells tonight!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help from coastal riders: how to deal with sand?

[Matt B.]

Not sure if you're using fenders already but they help a lot.  A good 
mudflap on the front that is 4-5" wide and hangs within 2" of the ground 
helps immensely. You can't really find mudflaps wide/long enough on 
off-the-shelf fenders so they usually have to be homemade with a rubber 
sheet or something similar like leather or plastic. Attachment can be as 
easy as a couple of holes and a zip-tie.


On Sunday, August 27, 2017 at 10:55:35 PM UTC-4, Ann L wrote:
>
> I recently relocated due to work and now do the majority of my riding by 
> the beach.  I love the natural beauty of sand, surf, ospreys, and pelicans 
> but hate what the sand is doing to my gears.  A gritty crust rapidly 
> develops on my cassette and chain.  I have been cleaning the chain weekly 
> and wiping the bike down daily.  Any advice from beach riders as to what I 
> should be doing to maintain the bike?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini!

[Matt B.]

+1 for threaded/quill setups, its one thing I'm glad Riv stuck to (though 
they didn't on the tandem). It's nice to be able to adjust your bar height 
if the mood strikes. Your body changes too. I guess it's not very often you 
need to redial your bar height but when you do, the option is golden. With 
a quill stem you can make adjustments in the middle of a ride in about 5 
seconds with an allen key from your saddlebag. 


On Sunday, August 6, 2017 at 9:06:33 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi Patrick.  I've owned 4 bikes with threadless headsets and have had bad 
> experiences with each one because of it.  For 2 of them---a Surly LHT and a 
> Surly Cross Check, both bought new---I told the dealer I wanted the 
> handlebars to be even with the top of a saddle set at 77cm.  He 
> accomplished that by installing a 17 degree stem pointing skyward and then 
> cutting the steerer with no room to go up.  Later when I wanted to raise my 
> bars I couldn't, or at least not enough to matter.  I sold the LHT for that 
> reason, and still use the CC for commuting but would like to replace it so 
> I can get the bars higher.  I was considering a Roadini for that until I 
> discovered that max tire width is 28mm with fenders, which isn't wide 
> enough for me on Indianapolis streets.  The 3rd bike is a Waterford 1200 
> that would be perfect except I can't get the bar higher than an inch below 
> the saddle, and I'm selling it for that reason.  And lastly, I had a rando 
> bike custom-built about 6-7 years ago, by a builder out of state.  I 
> specifically told him to talk to me BEFORE he cut the steering tube, but he 
> ignored that instruction.  He later said he had cut it but left plenty of 
> room to raise the bars, but when I got the bike there was no buffer, and he 
> refused to even talk to me about making it right.  I eventually paid others 
> to replace the steerer and repaint the fork.  To be fair to threadless 
> headsets 3 of these 4 cases were faults of the dealer's or builder's 
> stupidity or disobeyance, but the problems wouldn't have occurred with 
> threaded stems and show the limitations of threadless.  So I now stick to 
> threaded, and it's nonnegotiable.  
>
> Having said that, on about half my bikes I use a threadless stem with a 
> riser, so I have the adjustability of threaded but can swap stems without 
> stripping the handlebar.  It's not as sleek-looking as a Nitto stem, but 
> the tradeoff is well worth it if there's any chance at all that I'll want 
> to change the stem extension.  
>
> On Sunday, August 6, 2017 at 3:54:15 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Dave: why don't you like threadless headsets? 
>>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: (Pic Heavy) Quickbeam Campy Fixed Gear Flip Flop

[Matt B.]

Great report! Thanks for the write up and pics. Goes to show how versatile 
the QB can be for a "single-speed", let alone fixed-gear.


On Monday, July 3, 2017 at 10:31:31 PM UTC-4, christian poppell wrote:
>
> No no no, its not what you think! Or maybe it is... Its a camping ride 
> report that I did on a fixed gear Quickbeam while wearing flip flops. 
> Hopefully the photos work. I set out not to make this long winded but 
> alas... I recently built the wheelset (SON Delux, Phil Wood FX/FW, DT R460, 
> Sapim Race, 32/32) and sort of completed the build up of the bike and could 
> not get my freewheel off the other wheelset so I did the whole thing fixed. 
> Bike is setup with a Surly Dingle 17/21 and 36/40 chain rings. 
>
>
> Additional photos here: https://goo.gl/photos/QDize276hRjdi23Y7
>
>
>
> 
>
> all dressed up and somewhere to go
>
>
> Started on July 2nd around 4:00 in the afternoon. Took the BART over to 
> Embarcadero station and went to the ferry building where I got an empanada 
> and a coffee ice cream in a sugar cone. snacked on those and took a few 
> photos.
>
>
>
> 
>
> Ferry Building with Quickbeam foreground
>
> Made a quick stop at the marina Safeway to pick up some bananas, protein 
> bar, avocado, 4 pack of Hawaiian rolls, and a vegan chocolate chip cookie. 
> After that I did a quick visit down to fort point where I encountered a pod 
> of humpback whales breaching and lobtailing under the Golden Gate Bridge! I 
> spoke to a woman named Elizabeth who was snapping some photos and she sent 
> some to me! 
>
>
>
> 
>
> Humpback lobtailing in the SF Bay, photo credit: Elizabeth
>
>
>
> 
>
> under the Golden Gate Bridge
>
> I stood under the bride for a while until it got too chilly. it was after 
> I got over the bridge that I realized that it would be dark by the time I 
> got to the campsite. I was planning on riding through the Marin headlands 
> and going to Samuel P. Taylor the back way but did not feel like riding 
> later into the night. I pressed on to Corte Madera. 
>
>
>
> 
>
> Mt. Tamalpais in the distance, Quickbeam again, foreground
>
>
> I took the highway route which I had not done before, feels scary facing 
> traffic on 101 separated by a chain link fence, low guard rail, and an 
> emergency lane. I think ill take my chances with traffic on Corte Madera 
> road next time. The ride on the trail through Ross and San Anselmo is 
> always nice. I especially like Shady Ln, even more when there is no 
> traffic. I stopped shortly in Fairfax to do a little snacking on a banana, 
> bar, and some bread. I was thinking that whites hill was a little closer so 
> I switched to my lower gear (36,21). Only when I started riding did I 
> realize it was much farther, especially when you're spinning 45 gear 
> inches! I didn't mind it though as it was a nice change of pace, even 
> slowed down a little bit. Finally I hit the hill, its not terribly long or 
> steep but it is a climb, especially with a load and riding a fixed gear in 
> flip flops. I reached the top and spun downhill to a little turnout next to 
> a raving where I switched into the high gear. From here, I rode through the 
> San Geronimo valley. By this time is was dusk and the hills were turning 
> into images that should be painted, photographed, and cherished. I thought 
> about taking a photo but decided to take it all in and keep pedaling with 
> the slight downhill to Lagunitis. 
>
> I arrived in Lagunitas, home of the brewing company of the same name, and 
> jumped onto the Marin cross trail. I tilted the light back just a little to 
> capture any stray branches that were at face level. The ride was pleasant 
> and I didn’t see anyone on the trail. Come to think of it, I hadn't ridden 
> next to anyone since Sausalito! 
>
>
>
> 
>
> cycling the Marin Cross Trail, B Eyc provides good light
>
>
> I pulled into the hiker biker site at Samuel P. Taylor state park around 
> 8:30, had dinner and a chat with two groups there. Two dads had brought 
> their 4/5 year old daughters form Corte Madera on the back of two Yubas 
> (think xtracycle/big dummy). The other group parked at 

[RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Matt B.]

Thanks Keith. Yeah I was a little banged up but amazingly nothing serious, 
definitely lucky.  I'm 90% sure the frame is fine / not bent, but guess I 
won't know until I can ride it again (once I get a straight fork).

Keep the rubber side down and watch out for aggressive trees man :)


Matt


On Monday, July 3, 2017 at 9:47:35 PM UTC-4, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Jeesh, Matt!  Hope you're ok, and hope it's just the fork that needs to be 
> replaced.
>
> I guess I'd completely overlooked that part of the argument for less-stiff 
> blades, but now it makes sense.
>
> Otherwise, I think this might be one of the few places where I disagree 
> with Grant, and believe that there is a ride quality advantage too. 
>  Perhaps not "suspension," but definitely the ability to absosorb vibration 
> or "chatter."  
>
> I can visibly see it happen on my clem (hunqapillar) and '93 MB-1 forks. 
>  I'd like to buy a go-pro and make a video like this, to illustrate:
>
> https://youtu.be/uo-bastzh7c
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Matt B.]

On the subject of fork flex, as Grant has often pointed out, a good 
advantage of traditional disc (rim) brakes is that because a steel fork 
does not have to be so stiff, it will bend more easily in a crash and 
potentially save the frame.  As it happens I took advantage of this feature 
with my Quickbeam a few weeks ago on the local bikeway when a tree fell 
across the path*, landing directly on my front wheel and crushing it and 
bending my fork. The frame is fine as far as I can tell, whereas if I had a 
disc fork, who knows. I have bent forks before from more typical crash 
scenarios, so this flexibility does come in handy now and then :)

Matt


*yes I did have audible warning that this was happening (tree falling) but 
by the time I figured out what the hell that cracking sound was, it was too 
late.  



On Saturday, July 1, 2017 at 1:28:03 PM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> There must be some fork bounciness, but it's hard to isolate the effects 
> of forks, tires, wheels, weight distribution, and front-center dimensions 
> when you're riding over bumps. Also, there's the tremendous but usually 
> neglected in "technical discussions" effects of rider-joint-springs. It's 
> been my experience (so, I believe) that the rider and the tire are the two 
> most important shock absorbers. I believe that so much that it seems almost 
> insulting to even state it. If yoiur position allows relaxed arms (not 
> under compression from too-low bars), then they'll soak up tons. If the 
> tires are fat enough and soft enough, they'll soak up lots more. If your 
> wheels are more ahead and behind you than beneath you, the bumps won't 
> affect you as much. But mostly, joints and tires. To look for cush in steel 
> forks...it's like looking for protein in broccoli when there's fried cow 
> right there next to it.
> A suspension fork can add an extra measure of shock soakup, but by its 
> presence can also lead to less effective joint use, or harder tires, or 
> worse technique. It may not, but it can. 
> At some point it's useful to pan back and ask how heinous an enemy a bump 
> is, and what kind of artillary's needed to tame it.In a race, the more 
> stuff you have, the faster you'll go. Not in a race, you have the fantastic 
> luxury of slowing down and navigating btw the bumps at a speed that allows 
> them to be a fun but not threatening part. 
> I don't have everything all figured out for the world, I just know what my 
> preferences are, and I'm not dumb enough to think everybody's like me or 
> should be...or like Rivendell. Plus, there's so much variety out there, and 
> it's fun to try it. From a totally purely RBW business tactical approach--- 
> which never kicks in entirely without being diluted by emotion and gut and 
> laughs—all I can say  is that it's unlikely we'll put shocks or disc brakes 
> on single bikes. Imagine the fear it would trigger at Specialized, Trek, 
> and Giant if we did! (That is a joke). 
> The bike industry is suffering these years, and the biggies feel it most. 
> Naturally they will grab any opportunity to grow or strengthen and not 
> appear behind the times. If one of the three does something, the others 
> will, too. Rivendell's not at that point. We have a few super fun things 
> coming up in the next year or so, but they aren't conventional innovations 
> or tech makeovers. (Our form of "innovation" is something like the 
> welded-in lifter handle.) Last night, Mark, Roman, Will, and I talked for 
> 20 minutes mostly after hours about moving things on the Cheviot 3mm on one 
> size, four on another, to make a difference that nobody will ever notice 
> except maybe Mark. We do tiny things!
>
> On Friday, June 30, 2017 at 1:17:14 PM UTC-7, Jesse wrote:
>>
>> I've heard a handful of folks on either the iBOB or 650b groups say their 
>> Riv forks are too stout for their liking. Makes me wonder how much 
>> compliance a full blown low trail Jeff Lyon fork or somesuch has compared 
>> to the average Riv. 
>>
>> No experience w/ disc, but I'm guessing running fat tires tubeless @ low 
>> PSI compensates a bit for the overbuilt nature of disc forks. 
>>
>> I remember Matt Chester talking about why he preferred rim brakes.. 
>> something to the effect of disc use stressing the frame. Pretty sure Grant 
>> mentions this issue as well. Have always wondered if this is just a 
>> convenient data point for folks in the rim brake camp, or if it's a serious 
>> thing that would cause frame issues down the road.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Matt B.]

P.S. I've also read on this list about folks who've modded their Rivs with 
higher offset forks from e.g. Tom Matchak with reportedly satisfactory 
results, so if there happens to be any overlap in interest with disc 
brakes...  :)


On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 1:49:16 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I get a trail of 38 mm; rather lower than that of Rivs, no?
>
> Otherwise, it looks very nice. 
>
> On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM, Matt B. <matthi...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> For folks interested in a disc-braked rivendell, take a look at the Crust 
>> Romanceur.  It's lugged steel, has 1" threaded steerer (bonus in my book), 
>> and definitely rivendellian geometry, though perhaps more 90's to 
>> mid-2000's riv than current.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>>
>>> I dont think anyone has said they need disc brakes to stop. Most people 
>>> have bikes with both types of brakes.  Its just something different and 
>>> while not everyone will choose them, they do stop more quickly and easily.  
>>> Is that a requirement?  No.  Will some people choose it? Yes.  Will some 
>>> people decide they dont need or want it? Yes.   
>>>
>>> I have had bikes with disc brakes and as a mechanic have worked on many 
>>> many, of all quality.  I prefer rim brakes because I prefer to deal with 
>>> their drawbacks than the  drawbacks of disc brakes, of which there are a 
>>> few, in my personal opinion.  But its a strange all or nothing argument 
>>> that pops up around this issue.  I dont think that makes any sense
>>
>> -- 
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>
>
>
> -- 
> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 
> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Matt B.]

Fair enough. Was thinking more about the longish chainstays, slack STA & 
lowish BB, (e.g. size-up-able geometry) than of fork offset.  

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 1:49:16 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I get a trail of 38 mm; rather lower than that of Rivs, no?
>
> Otherwise, it looks very nice. 
>
> On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM, Matt B. <matthi...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> For folks interested in a disc-braked rivendell, take a look at the Crust 
>> Romanceur.  It's lugged steel, has 1" threaded steerer (bonus in my book), 
>> and definitely rivendellian geometry, though perhaps more 90's to 
>> mid-2000's riv than current.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>>
>>> I dont think anyone has said they need disc brakes to stop. Most people 
>>> have bikes with both types of brakes.  Its just something different and 
>>> while not everyone will choose them, they do stop more quickly and easily.  
>>> Is that a requirement?  No.  Will some people choose it? Yes.  Will some 
>>> people decide they dont need or want it? Yes.   
>>>
>>> I have had bikes with disc brakes and as a mechanic have worked on many 
>>> many, of all quality.  I prefer rim brakes because I prefer to deal with 
>>> their drawbacks than the  drawbacks of disc brakes, of which there are a 
>>> few, in my personal opinion.  But its a strange all or nothing argument 
>>> that pops up around this issue.  I dont think that makes any sense
>>
>> -- 
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>
>
>
> -- 
> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 
> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
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> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Matt B.]

For folks interested in a disc-braked rivendell, take a look at the Crust 
Romanceur.  It's lugged steel, has 1" threaded steerer (bonus in my book), 
and definitely rivendellian geometry, though perhaps more 90's to 
mid-2000's riv than current.



On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>
> I dont think anyone has said they need disc brakes to stop. Most people 
> have bikes with both types of brakes.  Its just something different and 
> while not everyone will choose them, they do stop more quickly and easily. 
>  Is that a requirement?  No.  Will some people choose it? Yes.  Will some 
> people decide they dont need or want it? Yes.   
>
> I have had bikes with disc brakes and as a mechanic have worked on many 
> many, of all quality.  I prefer rim brakes because I prefer to deal with 
> their drawbacks than the  drawbacks of disc brakes, of which there are a 
> few, in my personal opinion.  But its a strange all or nothing argument 
> that pops up around this issue.  I dont think that makes any sense

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[RBW] Re: Anyone used a large Saddleback for touring?

[Matt B.]

I've used one on ~1000 mile tours before, and would always go to it first 
if I can avoid panniers. In my experience it's not unwieldy at all once 
you're underway.  If carrying too much stuff to rely on the L saddlesack by 
itself, I'll go to panniers and camper longflap combo (the carradice allows 
easier access to top-load panniers). 


On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:45:25 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>
> A while back I bought a large Saddlesack thinking it'd be good for shorter 
> tours.  I'm taking a 7-day credit card tour soon and I'm having second 
> thoughts about using it.  It's bigger than I thought it'd be, large enough 
> that it's unwieldy sitting on top of the rack.  I'm considering using a 
> couple of Carradice Kendall panniers instead, which (combined) have the 
> same volume as the Saddlesack but sit lower, which may make the handling a 
> little better.  I'll be taking a Sam Hillborne with a Nitto Big Rear rack, 
> and won't have more than 20 lbs in the rear bag(s); in fact, it may be only 
> 10-15 lbs.  I'll have an Acorn Boxy Rando bag on a Mark's Rack on the front 
> regardless of what I do in the rear.  
>
> Does anyone have experience with the large Saddlesack for such use?  I can 
> think of pros and cons for each option, but would like opinions from those 
> who really know.  Thanks.
>
> Dave
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: questions about quickbeam/simple one gearing

[Matt B.]

On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 12:29:16 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Interesting, Eric. My brake pads are the Koolstop mountain pads, which are 
> curved and long and I haven't an issue.
>  
>
With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>

Same here, no problems switching from the 40t to the 32t ring on my QB with 
koolstop pads.


 

> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 10:25:17 AM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>>
>> I don’t want to throw cold water on this, but in my experience (QB owner 
>> since 2005) the sloped dropouts only work with very short brake shoes—think 
>> road bike caliper-type shoes. Longer brake pads create a problem when you 
>> start moving the wheel backward and forward by rubbing on the tire. 
>>
>> The brake pads will be “aligned,” but might not be usable. The bigger the 
>> movement, the greater the possibility that your rear brake will start 
>> hitting the tire.
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>>
>> On Jun 6, 2017, at 9:03 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>
>> The simple (one) answer is the QB and S1 have unique and brilliant 
>> extended, sloped dropouts that 1) allow up to an 8(?) tooth difference in 
>> tooth count accommodating the rear wheel sliding forward and back without 
>> messing with the brake alignment.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Bear Country Bike Camping

[Matt B.]

P.S. good luck on your S24+Os, sounds like a blast!


On Tuesday, April 25, 2017 at 11:02:29 PM UTC-4, GAJett wrote:
>
> Planning some bike camping (S24O and longer) in bear country.  Camping off 
> dirt roads and fire trails. Looking for advice for packing bear canisters.  
> Suggestions for mounting and/or racks specifically designed for carrying 
> such rigid containers.
> Cheers!
> gajett
>
> p.s., I do have significant backpacking experience in bear country.  No 
> biking experience with bears other than seeing a black bear cross the 
> Sourdough trail ahead if me near Bozeman MT.
>

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[RBW] Re: Bear Country Bike Camping

[Matt B.]

I have some experience with this, and it's hard to say how effective it 
really was-- but what I did was use a bear canister that I would store 
inside of a bear bag, and either put in one of my panniers (which fit it no 
problem) or in a wald basket I had on my front rack.  At night I'd tie the 
same bear bag up in a tree a hundred yards or so from my tent.  I noticed 
in places like Yellowstone and Glacier Park that tent camping sites were 
usually interspersed with several steel bear boxes, a few yards apart, 
where everyone would store food just steps from their tent-- I figured what 
I was doing couldn't have been less safe than that! :P  After one 
particular day where I saw a few bears too many I didn't camp at all but 
kept pedaling through the night, and wound up seeing a big cat at about 3am 
instead!


On Tuesday, April 25, 2017 at 11:02:29 PM UTC-4, GAJett wrote:
>
> Planning some bike camping (S24O and longer) in bear country.  Camping off 
> dirt roads and fire trails. Looking for advice for packing bear canisters.  
> Suggestions for mounting and/or racks specifically designed for carrying 
> such rigid containers.
> Cheers!
> gajett
>
> p.s., I do have significant backpacking experience in bear country.  No 
> biking experience with bears other than seeing a black bear cross the 
> Sourdough trail ahead if me near Bozeman MT.
>

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Re: [RBW] Cleland Cycles

[Matt B.]

They still have paperboys where I live, except they drive their routes 
shitty cars now.


On Friday, April 7, 2017 at 7:49:18 AM UTC-4, Jim S. wrote:
>
> This makes me want to quit my job and become a paperboy. Except that we 
> don't have paperboys anymore. And then I couldn't afford to buy these bikes 
> on a paperboy salary.
>
> On Friday, April 7, 2017 at 6:04:40 AM UTC-5, Eric Daume wrote:
>>
>> Google "paperboy bikes" and you'll see a lot of old bikes with a 
>> secondary top tube like that. Kona also made a retro mtb model (the 
>> Humuhumu) with something similar years ago.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 6:15 AM, Jim S.  wrote:
>>
>>> So I came across these bikes:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://clelandcycles.wordpress.com/history/
>>>
>>> I wonder if Rosco's V.1 and 2 are inspired by the triangle double-top 
>>> tube? I hadn't seen it until I saw the Rosco. 
>>>
>>> Concededly, the short wheel base and chainstays are un-Rosco like.
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis now redundant?

[Matt B.]

+1 on drops being more comfortable on all day rides, especially multiple 
consecutive all day rides.   And especially Noodles :)


On Sunday, March 5, 2017 at 9:21:15 PM UTC-5, RichS wrote:
>
> John, just my 2 cents but my Atlantis has drop bars and I've done all day 
> rides with no problem as I'm sure other Atlantis owners in the group have 
> too.
>
> My limited experience with upright bars (Albatross) leads me to believe 
> doing an all dayer would not be as comfortable but YMMV.
>
> Full disclosure: I currently have Noodles on all my rides. The drops don't 
> get much use but all the other locations do.
>
> Regards,
> Richard
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 5, 2017, at 8:14 PM, John Hawrylak  > wrote:
>
> Grant
>
> I agree with your points on JA vs Atlantis.  I remember the Top Tube Ruse 
> article and Mutton Chop Marv.  Just 1 question:
>
> If you were riding 6 to 8 hours, would you take the JA with swept back 
> bars and more upright position, or the Atlantis with drop bars even or 
> slightly above saddle height?  Ignore any weight or tubing differences.  
>
> Thanks 
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Proposal: Sew-it-yourself Half-Mitts

[Matt B.]

I can't believe the half-mitts didn't sell that well.I mean, I believe it 
because that's what the riv says, but dang, they are awesomely useful and 
usable.  Best thing next to trigger mittens for riding a bike below 40F, or 
down to the teens or 20s with an extra layer.  The stock stitching does 
come undone eventually, but I love mine and plan to repair them until they 
are dust but would gladly sew together more once that happens.



On Friday, March 3, 2017 at 1:27:14 PM UTC-5, Bob B wrote:
>
> I'm love my MUSA Mitts, and it was disappointing to see that they are 
> likely going to be discontinued. I use them every day to commute in New 
> York. Amazingly, they're all I need down to about 20–25 degrees F.  
>
> It occurred to me that MUSA mitts seem simple enough construction-wise 
> that they could make good sew-it-yourself kits, wherein RBW would sell 
> pre-cut fabric with black thread and a segment of bungee cord, with 
> instructions. People would be free to tweak the template to customize fit. 
> I made a comment to this effect on Grant's Blahg post about them 
> 
> . 
>
> I admit the idea is far fetched, and maybe even dumb! However, its not 
> without precedent. Sew-it-yourself kits had a moment in the 70s/80s in the 
> outdoor sports market (i.e.; Frostline Kits 
> ). 
>
> But just out of pure curiosity, I wanted to put it to the group. Would you 
> buy em? Would you sew them? Would they be more viable, business-wise?
>
> Bob
> Brooklyn, NY
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam chainline w/ PW freewheel?

[Matt B.]

As Eric pointed out, for singlespeed cogs 4mm of offset is not an issue. 
There've been zero problems using a White Ind Dos Eno (dual) 16/19 cog (not 
technically singlespeed but same tooth profile), on my QB for several 
years, using either chain ring on the stock crank.  

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[RBW] Re: New tires for the Hunq

[Matt B.]

Seconding Al's recommendation for conti travel contacts. I tried them on 
the QB and liked them so much I put another set on the all-rounder as 
well.  They're reasonably priced, easy to mount, tread pattern works great 
on both pavement and dirt, and they last a really long time. 

On Monday, February 20, 2017 at 10:30:58 AM UTC-5, a spens wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I can tentatively recommend Continental Travel Contacts: Smooth-ish 
> centers with channel-grooves and  knobby edges. I say 'tentatively' as I 
> put a set of 42's on my Ram a just few weeks ago and have been pleased with 
> their performance on the range of surfaces from pavement to gravel to some 
> very light trail riding.  They're not a supple as Compass's so I'm 
> experimenting with pressures to find a happy place.  Other reviewers often 
> commented on their durability and puncture resistance.  Something to be 
> aware of however, is they run substantially narrower than expected.  My 
>  42's actually measure 36.4, quite a disparity.  I ordered another pair of 
> 50's for the Quickbeam, counting on them running narrower, as with the 42's.
>
> Happy trails!
>
> Al
>
>
>
>
> On Sunday, February 19, 2017 at 11:05:07 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>>
>> I'm looking to put some new rubber on the Hunq. I'll be taking it this 
>> summer to the Walnut Creek area, then to Moab, then Boulder. Currently I'm 
>> riding Schwalbe Smart Sams. At Deacon Patrick's recommendation I'm strongly 
>> considering Racing Ralphs. But here's the thing, I don't really ride in 
>> mud. In fact, most of the time, I ride the Hunq on pavement, but want to 
>> use it more on dirt and gravel. I might ride it on some singletrack (which 
>> is what I originally envisioned when I bought it but I've only used it for 
>> that about 5-10%, at the most). So, I think I'd like something much more 
>> supple, but still fat. From what I've read from Jan (and I know that his 
>> research will probably skewed somewhat toward what he likes and sells, but 
>> it still makes sense) knobbies are really only helpful in mud, or certain 
>> snow conditions. Having fallen in love with Compass EL on all my bikes but 
>> the Hunq, I want a tire that will be comparable. It seems like the Comapss 
>> Snoqualmie Pass at 700x44 might not be quite fat enough for the Hunq. So, 
>> thoughts?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Seatpost size for Atlantis?

[Matt B.]

Sometimes something as simple as a burr on the inside edge of the seat tube 
can make a seat post feel too snug, in which case a round bastard file will 
take care of it in a few seconds.   If you get the bike back feel inside 
the seat tube with your fingers.

On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 4:26:19 PM UTC-5, John G. wrote:
>
> Hey folks,
>
> The shop building up my Atlantis has informed me that my 27.2 seatpost 
> Nitto S83 is a tad too tight. They're recommending a 27 inch seatpost. Does 
> this jive with what you have on your Atlantis?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Front Racks and Baskets for All-Rounders/Atlantis/etc?

[Matt B.]

I find it kind of hard to believe that the 32F is only safe for 4.4 lbs and 
the M18 safe for ~14+?  If those are the advertised figures, either the 
4.4lbs is extremely conservative for the 32F or else the 14 lbs. for the 
M18 is fairly optimistic.  The 32F has chromoly brazed-on outer struts and 
a one-piece chromo strut that goes through the fork crown while the M18 
uses aluminum bolt-on struts and a two-piece flat tang held to the fork 
crown by a brake bolt.   


On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 8:53:07 AM UTC-5, Bob K. wrote:
>
> Keep in mind that the mini front racks Riv sells have very limited 
> capacities. The 32f, for example, is rated to 4.4 lbs. If that's enough for 
> you, definitely snag one! I have a 32f and like it, although I'm thinking 
> of trading it for a demi-porteur style rack to be able to carry a bit more 
> weight.
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore
>

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Front Racks and Baskets for All-Rounders/Atlantis/etc?

[Matt B.]

My AR has a NItto Mini Campee 32F and a Wald medium basket, and I highly 
recommend it.  I also get tons of use from the medium Sackville shop sack 
that Rivendell sells, which is sized just right for a medium Wald.

On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 12:55:45 AM UTC-5, GerBear wrote:
>
> Hello, looking to add a Wald basket for my AR.  Anyone have any good 
> suggestions?  I am more of a slow rider that likes toting six packs and 
> baguettes than goo kind of guy.
> Cheers
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albastache more comfortable than the original road Moustache?

[Matt B.]

I like OG mustaches because they are narrower.  I'm also most comfortable 
on 42cm Noodles for drop bars, the 44s feel just slightly too wide.  With 
original mustaches it's key to position the levers so the tips of the hoods 
are about ~12-12.5cm apart.


On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 11:07:56 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:
>
> Rode my XO-1 with Moustache bars for 20+ years and as much as I  loved 
> them, they were never perfect. I always wished they were a little wider & 
> the curve a little less dramatic  (especially close to the stem). The 
> Albastache solves both of these issirs, so to me it's about a close to 
> perfect as possible. My main challenge now is to not put them on every bike 
> I own. Personally, I  no longer have a use for the original moustache, so 
> complete is the refinement that it renders the original  obsolete.
> Not sure how that helps you on you application though.

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[RBW] Re: My Cantis cant get no respect.

[Matt B.]

Here here!  Got cantilevers on all my bikes and definitely don't feel like 
I'm missing anything brakes-wise.  I couldn't imagine needing more stopping 
power or convenience of set-up and maintenance.  Not saying brazed 
centerpulls, hydraulic discs, or whatnot shouldn't be the bees knees for 
someone else ;)

On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 5:06:25 PM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Probably like a lot of us, I got an email announcing a Jan Hein blog 
> comparing rim & disk brakes.  Now, I have almost no experience with disk 
> brakes but much of what I read makes me think they could be a good choice 
> for some bikes.  I found myself saying, not my experience,  when he 
> compared posted CP and canti brakes. Jan has a phenomenal amount of 
> experience that's hard to challenge, but  My experience of modulation 
> with good, and I emphasize good, cantis has not been any less than with 
> good CP brakes.  The issue of shutter, which he raises with cantis, because 
> they mount lower on the fork than CP brakes, seems, to me, to be related to 
> the skill of the bike builder.
>
> Here's my experience with Cantis vs CP brakes.  My early Saluki, with 
> Paul's cantis offers excellent stopping power and modulation that is just 
> as good as the Pauls's CP brakes on my Rambouilet.  I originally had Pauls 
> posted CP on my tandem with 38 mm tires and converted the frame to cantis 
> in order to go to 45mm and switched to Paul's neo-retros.  There is no 
> difference in modulation, the cantis might offer a minute amount of extra 
> braking (when set up properly).  However a tandem might not be an exact 
> comparison to braking on a single.  The extra mass is huge, but the extra 
> weight in the rear (no offense honey) helps to keep the rear wheel planted 
> and adds to rear braking power.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Musa Mitts

[Matt B.]

Really bummed these are going away and haven't been very popular.  Seems be 
inevitable for most clothing / parts / tools that are particularly good yet 
cheap-- they are suddenly discontinued!  I layer my half mitts over gripper 
gloves in winter. That set up is good for down to 20 degrees or so 
(especially on the ones with the fleece lining).

Anyway I bought an extra pair a month ago since the stitching on my old 
ones began to unravel. I did plan to stitch them back up but wanted to have 
backups nonetheless.  



On Thursday, December 29, 2016 at 8:54:21 PM UTC-5, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I really wanted a pair, but they sold out before I could order a pair. And 
> now they are forever no more.  I searched the internet for some sort of 
> over mitten that I could slip on over my hi-viz gloves when needed but alas 
> my search has been fruitless. Anybody want to sell their Musa Mitts?
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo Sizing Help

[Matt B.]

You'd have a lot of seat post showing on a 59 but it really depends on how 
high you'd want to run your bars relative to saddle (although this is not 
so much of an issue nowadays with tallux stems/long quills).  Personally I 
would go 61 with that pbh, even if the 61 is not immediately available.  
It's worth waiting a few months for the right size.

On Monday, December 19, 2016 at 11:52:08 AM UTC-5, John G. wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I've mentioned before on the board, I'm interested in a Roadeo. That 
> 59cm posted on the site has caught my eye, but I'm wondering if it's a bit 
> on the small size. My PBH is 88.5. Are there any Roadeo riders on this 
> board with a similar PBH? If so, what size frame do you have?
>
> Grant kindly replied to my email and said I'd probably be fine, and that 
> the fit would be more traditionally "road-ish.". Obviously, I trust him, 
> but I've made bad sizing decisions before and would love a second opinion.
>
> Thanks,
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam: A Three Year Retrospective

[Matt B.]

I completely agree Patrick. The QB can transform a grown man into a kid on 
a BMX bike in the woods.  40/16 is a great gear for getting around and even 
stretching your legs on longer rides, but when you get to the woods taking 
a few seconds to "digital" shift down to 32/22 or 40/22 puts you right in 
the sweet spot for bumpy roller coaster trails.  


On Sunday, December 18, 2016 at 10:26:01 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Ha! There is a sweet-spot which few bikes hit between the simplicity of 
> single speed and the reality that three speeds open up riding on anything 
> that is ridable. For me, the Quickbeam hits that sweet-spot and has invited 
> and challenged and encouraged and coached me to becoming a better, 
> stronger, more flexible rider.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Sunday, December 18, 2016 at 8:06:35 AM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>>
>> Single speeds are cool but seems like most people add gears to them.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Compass Snoqualmie Pass 700x44

[Matt B.]

Might be snug but I imagine you could do it with fenders.  Easily without 
fenders.


On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 5:52:47 PM UTC-5, ctifusion wrote:
>
> Will these fit on a Quickbeam? I'm still using the stock rims (green, 
> 2004). I put a set of the 38 Compass tires on this summer and love them but 
> would like a bit more width if possible. I didn't see these when I got 
> mine. 
>
> B 
> Indy

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[RBW] Re: 29er/700c Studded Tire Options for Clem.

[Matt B.]

Just another +1 on Schwalbe Winters. I also had Nokian Hakkepelittas for a 
few years, but when those wore out I went to the Winters which have more 
studs (wiped out a few times on the Nokians under not-too-difficult 
conditions, so wanted to see if more studs would help).  Long story short, 
the winters are surprisingly grippy.  It's fun climbing steep 
roads/driveways in the bailout gear on black ice.

On Tuesday, December 13, 2016 at 6:27:35 AM UTC-5, ascpgh wrote:
>
> +1 on Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x42. Yes heavy and slow, that's 
> precisely what keeps you from doing something on unseen slickness that will 
> have consequences. Riding which will discriminate tire lightness and 
> responsiveness ignores the blanket caution winter riding conditions 
> necessitate. There's many more ways to slip and fall than just the presence 
> of snow and ice, list members will attest.
>
> I vary the pressure in my Winter Marathons to reduce the studs contacting 
> the road in straight line riding, but not so much to wear the tread 
> prematurely. If the world goes snow globe on me, I let some out for a 
> bigger footprint and more studs engaged. I'm on my fifth year with this set 
> in use on my daily commuting.
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Monday, December 12, 2016 at 11:44:05 AM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:
>>
>> I'll shortly have my VO Campeur set up with ~40mm studded tires, but am 
>> thinking of setting up large Clem with larger studded tires as well.
>> Any recommendations?
>> Considering removing fenders but anything around 50mm would mean I could 
>> keep them on.
>> David
>> in snowy Chicago, not quite ready for a snowy/icy commute
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] 650b vs 700c

[Matt B.]

On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 9:02:36 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

>
> Sure, by using an appropriate width 700C.   Height of rider & size of 
> frame have nothing to do with this concept, it's all about the size & 
> width of the wheel/tire combination. 
>
>
>
That's why the concept is so weak.  Especially when looking at difference 
between 584 and 622, is down to preference as far as I can tell.  BQ has 
great articles, but- all due respect to the editors and writers- some of it 
is plain pseudo science.

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b vs 700c

[Matt B.]

On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 9:01:32 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> The "sweet spot" notion has nothing to do with rolling over rocks and 
> roots. 
>
>
I never said it did?

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[RBW] Re: 650b vs 700c

[Matt B.]

Some folks say 700x45c tires roll over roots or rocks or frost heaves 
slightly better than 650b with similar width tire. I kind of agree with 
this based on my own experience/perceptions. The difference in radius is 
less than 2cm though, you'd find much more contrast with a 26" or 20" tire 
as pointed out above. I don't see how there could be a single "sweet spot" 
for wheel size irrespective of a host of other variables, but also IMHO 
toe-overlap and stand-over height are often blown way out of proportion 
w.r.t. importance.


On Friday, December 9, 2016 at 1:20:15 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>
> 650b tires seemed to gain in popularity because you could fit wider tires 
> than 700c (with 700c being traditionally narrow in size both in the tire 
> clearance of frames made and the tires availabile), but now that wider 
> tires have gained in popularity in all sizes, including 700c, what are the 
> drawbacks to going 700c instead of 650b if you can easily and readily get 
> wide 42mm or larger tires on a lot of the new fangled gravel and allroad 
> bikes? Is there a tradeoff for making a 700c frame around large tires?  Or 
> has frame building come around enough to compensate for any trade offs? 
>
> I say this because I've tried a few 650 bikes but constantly find myself 
> gravitating towards 700c with wide tires. I understand from some of Grant's 
> writing that for smaller riders like myself 650b is a better design choice 
> and that's why there are several sizes within a model depending on the 
> size, so maybe it comes down to trade offs with geometry and rider height? 
> Even then, as a small 5'7" rider I still find I prefer wide 700c tires over 
> 650b. Or is it really just a matter of personal preference at this point?
>
> Was just skimming Jan's 'How Wide is Too Wide' article in the recent BQ 
> which got me thinking as they tested multiple widths and diameters, but 
> didn't really say how the wider tires on different diamaters came into play 
> (unless I missed it).
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: MUSA? Completely gone? Coming back?

[Matt B.]

I've never found anything to work significantly better than a pair of 
dickies work pants with maybe a strap for the drive-side pant leg depending 
on the size of the leg opening. I love the MUSA half-mitts though, 
especially since they added the warm lining.  I'd also be psyched if they 
bring back the MUSA moleskin shirt-  it's great 2/3rds of the year, I'd 
definitely get another one.

On Monday, December 5, 2016 at 8:16:26 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>
>   The pants seemed a bit odd to me.  For one, for a company  that promotes 
> wearing "normal" clothes the pants with the reflectors and large velcro 
> straps reminded me of a fireman's pant,  not a "normal" looking pant at 
> all.  For comparison, he Compass knicker looks like a  normal knicker 
> anyone would wear any place. 
>
>The cut of them could be improved too, a good pair of pants is as well 
> thought out as a say a good frame is.  Can you please everyone ?  Yes, 
> absolutely, and the idea that you cannot is nonsensical.
>

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[RBW] Re: moustache or Albastache bars on a Legolas?

[Matt B.]

Also not a legolas example but I do have the mustaches on an all-rounder 
with similar geometry and love them, especially for riding in the woods.  
In my case I prefer mustache to albastache because of the narrower width 
and slightly deeper drop which suit my build better.



On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 3:54:28 PM UTC-5, Forrest Meyer wrote:
>
> Anyone ever run Albastache or moustache handlebars on a Legolas?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What's the longest you have ridden on your Rivendell period?

[Matt B.]

If we're talking about more than one sitting the longest ride I've been on 
was a little over 6,000 miles in a solo tour.

On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 4:39:40 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> My Quickbeam has been on a few longish rides:
>
> 2007 PBP (in the rain), set up as a fixed gear (74 inches, as I recall). 
> Finished in 82 1/2 hours
>
> 2006 Big Fix, 1,700 miles from Davis, CA, to Scott City, KS, over the 
> Sierras, Wasatch, and Rockies, riding fixed
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
> On Nov 14, 2016, at 12:16 PM, Ed Felker  
> wrote:
>
> 1200K, Rambouillet, Boston-Montreal-Boston randonee 2004. Tough ride, 25mm 
> tires didn't do well on New England's pavement.
> 1200K, coupled Bleriot, Paris-Brest-Paris randonnee 2007. Terrific ride on 
> Grand Bois Cypress 32mm tires, even on chipseal. 
>
> Ed Felker
> Washington, DC
>
>
> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 4:14:29 PM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> So I typed up this long post to Lum gim fong, and then realized that he 
>> was just asking about Boscos.  Woops
>>
>> I'm going to post it anyway, so I can feel like my effort was justified, 
>> even if it wasn't.
>>
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Clem RD Chain Tension

[Matt B.]

The long stays might mean you need more tension on the chain than you would 
otherwise.  I'd look into a clutch style MTB mech.  Otherwise, the GS is 
the short-cage Shimano and you may be better off with the SGS which wraps 
more chain.

On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 9:47:59 AM UTC-5, Jonathan Anderson wrote:
>
> Hi there, my wife and four month old son were away this weekend so I had 
> little choice but to tinker with the Clem.  This tinkering amounted to 
> installing an old RD that I had in my parts bucket from an old MTB. 
> Straightforward enough, right? Sort of. Upon rerouting the chain, I noticed 
> that I had considerable slack ('droop') in small/small. **Without checking 
> big/big, I promptly removed a link and reattached the KMC quick link. Still 
> droopy. Removed another link. Passable. Happy. 
>
> But on my ride yesterday afternoon I noticed some noise when shifting to 
> big/big to get up a small hill. 'Cross-chaining.'  I know, but it was a 
> small hill and it's more practical to shift 'down' a couple to get over it 
> vs. having to shift down in the front and up in the back... Following? 
>  Anyway, I heard the noise and made a note to check when I returned. I 
> believe the sound, which is not overly pronounced, but audible is due to 
> the RD being pulled pretty far out and adding additional tension to the 
> chain (photo below).  
>
> Q (finally...), is this too much tension?  It's a GS RD, so it's rated for 
> 33T capacity vs. the 37 on the Clem. Should be fine? In retrospect, I 
> should have left one additional link on the chain as I never ride 
> small/small. But I didn't think that far ahead. Question is whether I can 
> get away with it the way it is. If not, I have no idea where to find a 
> chain long enough to fit the clem stays 
>
> Appreciate your thoughts. 
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What's the longest you have ridden on your Rivendell period?

[Matt B.]

I rode mine about 135 miles in a day which definitely was all I could 
handle physically, not because the bike was uncomfortable. It was fully 
loaded at the time though so it was a long, long day.


On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 4:14:29 PM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> So I typed up this long post to Lum gim fong, and then realized that he 
> was just asking about Boscos.  Woops
>
> I'm going to post it anyway, so I can feel like my effort was justified, 
> even if it wasn't.
>
> 
>
> 1000K is the farthest I have successfully completed.  I'm 2 out of 3 at 
> that distance, the one failing due to a mechanical that could not be easily 
> solved in a geographically remote area of Texas.  (stripped crank bolt and 
> rounded crank arm interface).
>
> 1000K is easier to compartmentalize into seeming just a day longer than a 
> 600K. On a flat-ish one like I did most recently in 2014, I was in all 
> three days around midnight-12:30, so I got some sleep too and still 
> finished 9 and a half hours under the 75 hour time limit.  It still seemed 
> a bit long on the third day, I was telling the guys and gals I was riding 
> with that "It just seems like we ride our bikes all day every day" but 
> overall it was a manageable distance and we finished that ride in good 
> spirits.
>
> I admit to wanting to quit my first 1000K in 2007 at times but it was the 
> point to point Portland to Glacier ride, so if I wanted to quit, I was 
> going to have to hitch hike in remote areas of Washington, Idaho and 
> Montana.  Continuing to ride seemed like a better option at the time, so I 
> did.
>
> I have made a couple of attempts at 1200K, but failed in both, quit on or 
> end of the first day.  It's really in my head.  Mentally for some reason it 
> seems much more daunting than a 1000K, that extra 200K manifesting itself 
> as a 4th day on the bike gets to your psyche if you're having a tough 
> time.  I was miserable in the cold and rain in France in 2007 without 
> fenders.  I was 36 at that time and less mature, I really wanted to go 
> drink more wine and try to meet Parisian women, which of course didn't 
> happen.  The second part, I mean. The other time, I got psyched out by 
> looming spectre of the Salinas Valley headwind in California in 2014 after 
> I slept in on Day 2, just decided to sleep in and go visit family rather 
> than continue riding.  
>
> I also do better when I'm riding with people that I frequently ride with 
> with out of the Texas clubs, because I know their riding paces and habits, 
> how long they'll take at controls, etc.  In neither 1200K I attempted did I 
> have those people around me save for one rider in California but she was on 
> a recumbent, so it wasn't a great match.  Maybe next time I just need to 
> pay for a rando friend's registration and travel expenses that I know I can 
> get along with, won't quit the ride and will push me to keep going when the 
> going gets hard.
>
>
> Jim
>
> -- 
> --
> signature goes here
>

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[RBW] Re: Fork crowns on Quickbeam & Simple One - Questions

[Matt B.]

No I did mean the Quickbeams, but also the Simpleones I'd guess although 
I've never seen one.  I have an older QB and an all-rounder with a newer 
RC-03 crown, and they are the same dimensions, they are only different in 
their appearance with the scalloping and pinpoint windows on the later 
one.  I'm fairly sure both crowns have the RC-03 designation.

On Monday, October 31, 2016 at 1:04:39 PM UTC-4, iamkeith wrote:
>
>
>
> On Monday, October 31, 2016 at 6:57:21 AM UTC-6, Conway Bennett wrote:
>>
>> I have the original green run QB and I run resist nomads which are listed 
>> at 700 X 45 with space to spare.  Probably not enough for fenders but 
>> plenty of mud clearance if you're into that sort of thing.  This winter 
>> I'll be running vee rubber 12s listed at 700 X 1.75, sans fenders.
>
>
> We, that's consistent with my experience, which would make sense.  At 
> least a tire that is "labeled" 45 works.  The rear tire actually gives me 
> more trouble than the front, but I assume that wouldn't be the case with 
> Rosco #5, given that it doesn't have the QB's short chainstays and narrow 
> spacing. 
>
> On Monday, October 31, 2016 at 2:12:24 AM UTC-6, Matt B. wrote:
>>
>> I'm pretty sure all runs of QBs had RC-03 crowns.  The AHH also uses that 
>> crown, and on that bike 40 might be the max you can go, but I think the 
>> limitation there is from sidepulls not the fork clearance itself.  On the 
>> cantilevered QB you can easily fit a 45mm tire, maybe up to 50 without 
>> fenders. 
>>
>
> I think you meant "all Simple Ones have the same crown" right?  The two 
> crowns I linked to above are both Quickbeams, and definitely differ from 
> each other.   The later (silver) one looks like the Simple ones which, you 
> are probably right, must be a RC-03.  And that may indeed be able to take a 
> 50mm tire?!   The Reader article says it's the Sam crown, but then says 
> that the wider RC-04 is "maybe" the Sam crown.   50mm, if realistic, starts 
> to change the equation and could almost work.  I know that people have 
> successfully run 50s on a Sam, but had to deflate to get the tires past the 
> brake pads.   Wish I knew for sure which crown was used.
>
> Here's a Simple One crown, which matches the #5 crown and later QBs:
>
> Simple One fork crown (corrected) 
> <https://www.google.com/search?q=simple+one+fork=1C1GGGE___US527US527=lnms=isch=X=0ahUKEwjNq5aSvoXQAhWki1QKHaedCgEQ_AUICCgB=1652=896#tbm=isch=rivendell+simple+one+fork=xZUR-HzfIEGJ8M%3A>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fork crowns on Quickbeam & Simple One - Questions

[Matt B.]

I'm pretty sure all runs of QBs had RC-03 crowns.  The AHH also uses that 
crown, and on that bike 40 might be the max you can go, but I think the 
limitation there is from sidepulls not the fork clearance itself.  On the 
cantilevered QB you can easily fit a 45mm tire, maybe up to 50 without 
fenders. 


On Sunday, October 30, 2016 at 9:29:24 PM UTC-4, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Is anybody well versed or familiar with the crowns used on these two 
> bikes?  Particularly regarding the differences between them, and their 
> relative tire clearances?
>
> The  recent Reader, #44, included a description of Riv's various, current 
>  fork crowns (RC-02  through the new, Appaloosa-style RC-06) but it doesn't 
> really answer my question. 
>
> I have a first-run QB, the crown of which looks like the one at the 
> following link (and also matches my Rambouillet).  But it isn't even shown 
> in the Reader article.  Perhaps it's a RC-01?  Or is it the RC-02, which is 
> listed as the Roadeo crown and therefore the narrowest possible option? :
>
> original QB crown 
> 
>
> Meanwhile, later QBs and, presumably S.O.s had crowns that looked like the 
> one at the following link.  It's hard to tell from photos whether this is 
> an RC03 or an RC04, though I'm guessing the former.  Both have the little 
> scroll detail with three dots above:
>
> Later Quickbeam crown 
> 
>
> My main question is whether or not the later QB/SO crowns had 
> significantly more clearance than the earlier ones.  My reason for asking 
> is because the Rosco #5 is said to be built around a surplus Quickbeam / 
> Simple One fork, and I'm trying to figure out what that means in terms of 
> real world tire clearance.  It is the later of the two above styles, and 
> the bike's listed as having a max tire clearance of 40mm (though I suspect 
> that's a typo and it really meant to say 44 or 45). But is this the 
> conservative dimension Riv is required to cite as a manufacturer, or does 
> it jive with what QB/SO owners have been able to do?
>
> Though I'm at the upper end of the fit spectrum, #5 is the first Rosco 
> that's looked like it will fit me, but I'm trying to figure out if it's 
> something I'd use.  My QB  is the most comfortable bike I own, but I rarely 
> ride it precisely because it is limited to such narrow tires.   If  #5 
> doesn't improve on that significantly, then it's likely just too much 
> overlap and redundancy.  #5 also shares the same, steepish 72 seat tube / 
> 72.5 headtube angles with the QB (which I suppose is why they describe it 
> as "roadish"), has horizontal dropouts, and is bright green. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver 2 shifters

[Matt B.]

I wholeheartedly agree with Patrick, downtube shifting has it's place 
despite all the other options out there now.  I prefer DT shifters when 
using drop bars, despite being 6' and riding largish (62-64cm) frames.  I 
like the much simpler cable routing and find that downtube shifting induces 
somewhat more mindful shifting practices, though is by no means 
inconvenient compared to bar ends.  I hope I'm not in the twilight of my 
riding days!  :)

On Saturday, October 22, 2016 at 8:24:46 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Don't carry this line of thought too far! Steel, hand-built wheels, wool 
> clothing, friction shifting, leather shoes, fixed drivetrains, lugged 
> frames, -- you can go on and on about technology that one could argue is in 
> its twilight.
>
> There are good reasons for downtube shifters that remain relevant even in 
> a world of electric button shifting, just as there are good reasons for 
> lugs, leather, wool, and 32 spoke wheels. The bike industry is rapidly 
> moving away from just about everything that Rivendell sells.
>
> Patrick Moore, for whom dt shifters are Hi Tek -- coming back from a brief 
> climbing ride on the '99 67'/75" fixie, I youngsters on fixed gear bikes 
> heading for the really steep climbs.
>
> On Sat, Oct 22, 2016 at 6:16 PM, masmojo  > wrote:
>
>> I like the direction Grant's going & I don't think I am wrong in saying 
>> the the bike industry is swiftly moving away from downtube shifters and I 
>> am guessing they are not relevant at all on contemporary bikes. So, then I 
>> am guessing that the majority of people who like the old style are reaching 
>> the Twilight of their riding days,  riding vintage equipment & likely not 
>> looking for new shifters anywaz!
>> If they are as Bill suggested, stock up now! But, honestly power ratchet 
>> shifters are easily had on ebay in a pinch.
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
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> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet Questions

[Matt B.]

Andy, that's 62 cm center-to-center (64 center-to-top) right?   Might be 
worth noting for OP that Riv uses the CTT measurement in their charts, and 
that CTC measurement is roughly ~2cm smaller.


On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 8:15:45 AM UTC-4, ascpgh wrote:
>
>
> Adam,
>
> I have a first series, only owner, 62cm Rambouillet, PBH 90cm, saddle 
> height 80cm with the B17 Special.
> Here's a good view of a spec sheet (scroll down to the Ram): 
> http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/geometry.html
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
> I cannot vouch for comparison to others (besides my year round commuting 
> beater) but I find this bike to have a very comfortable ride. It currently 
> has some Compass Stampede Pass ELs and just invites my best efforts. It's 
> got the patina of being the bike that I ride (and have ridden) and is well 
> on its way to meeting Grant's expectation of being "a bike that will last 
> 20 years, or longer." 
>
> Original flyer from the wayback machine: 
> http://web.archive.org/web/20021001153038/http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_rambouilletframes.html
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:08:45 PM UTC-4, adam leibow wrote:
>>
>> hello !
>>
>> recently i sold my too-small 56cm a homer hilsen, and have been looking 
>> to replace it with something similar, but larger, so that less seatpost 
>> shows and it fits a bit more traditionally/rando-y. i contacted a seller on 
>> ebay about his 60cm rambo and he agreed to sell to me as a frameset even 
>> though his listing was for the complete. before i decide to commit to this 
>> bike, can i ask you fellow rambo owners a) what size do you ride? b) what 
>> is your pbh? c) how much seatpost is showing? and finally d) do you have 
>> the original geometry sheet for this bike? i couldn't find it after a quick 
>> google search. also, if you have pictures of your bikes, i would love to 
>> see them! 
>>
>> thank you for your help! it is much appreciated!!
>>
>> adam 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?

[Matt B.]

On Monday, October 10, 2016 at 1:09:25 PM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> I've found from experience not to even go by frame size it can vary so 
> much depending in wheel size, frame design, BB drop, etc.
> I go strictly by standover height & then I decide how long a top tube I 
> will need based on, how I intend to set up/ride the bike.
> Keven measured my PBH @ 82 when I was out there last year, but I feel like 
> it hardly matters because I know from experience that a standover of 77 is 
> about optimal for me, any more then that and my boys start contacting the 
> top tube a little more then is comfortable.
> Ideally, I think you should be able to stand flat-footed on the bike 
> without hurting yourself.


That's the opposite of me, I go by reach/stack/STA only, and standover 
height is a useless data point for the way I ride.  On road of offroad, 
even singletrack, I'm never standing over the top tube with both feet on 
the ground.  The top tube could be higher than my pbh and it doesn't 
matter.  Everybody's different.
 

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[RBW] Re: 64cm Atlantis for sale in Los Angeles

[Matt B.]

Looks bigger than a 64, not sure the seller is measuring correctly.   maybe 
a 66 or 68?


On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 1:26:47 PM UTC-4, B Y wrote:
>
> Not mine:
>
> Spotted an Atlantis for sale on Craigslist in Los Angeles (Hawthorne). 
>
> https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/5808022435.html
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Brooks b17 select - opinions?

[Matt B.]

The B17 Selects have thicker leather that doesn't stretch as easily, which 
is a good thing. They still break-in and get really comfortable, just takes 
more time.  Mine's about 3 years old also and I've never had to adjust the 
tension, whereas I've had other late-model B17's severely deform in a 
matter of months (mostly due to rain, but the select model I have gets just 
as much use and sees just as much rain).  

On Wednesday, September 14, 2016 at 2:02:12 PM UTC-4, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
>
>
> I have a Brooks standard on my X0-1 and 2 B-17  specials on my 2 other 
> rivendells. Honestly, I do not think the B-17 standards are as durable or 
> thick as they were 10 or 15 years ago
>
>  

This is my impression too. I have two older B17's that are much more stout 
than the current normal ones. Anyway I hope Brooks doesn't discontinue the 
Select models, or I wish they would make their normal models just as good 
because the B17 shape is nearly perfect for my backside.


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[RBW] Re: Thank you and "Enjoy the Ride!"

[Matt B.]

yeah what they said!  different direction or not, if you're riding, keep 
posting!
  

On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 7:04:44 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I’m going to be riding off a different direction. Thank you all on this 
> group — you have helped me tremendously as I’ve dived into wrenching and 
> fine tuning the my rides. I am grateful for all you’ve given me. May God 
> startle you with joy!
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Helmets... what do you like?

[Matt B.]

In the summer my favorite is the breeze. In colder months, a knit cap 
usually.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Quickbeam Wheelset

[Matt B.]

I'll take em.  sent you a PM.



On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 11:24:00 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Rivendell original Quickbeam wheelset. Suzue tall flange hubs. 32 spokes. 
> Freewheel included, but q/r skewers are not. Low mileage, dry California 
> lifestyle. 100mm front, 120mm rear spacing. 
>
> $100 total, *shipped* to your home or place of business. Paypal, check, 
> cash, whatever works.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/28805959216
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/28805961006/
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/29098869245/
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/29066273766/
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/28480654923/
>
> -- 
> Cheers,
> David
>
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Riv Fixed/Single Speed in 2017???

[Matt B.]

Well the quickbeam wide range 4 speed came stock with integrated digital 
shifting, with all internally routed muscles, though some people downgraded 
them to single speed.


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[RBW] Re: Shout out for Grant and Co. Customer Service...

[Matt B.]

Beautiful pictures.  In the second one it looks like a QB sprouted among 
the birches.  I have some great all-around/grocery-capable bikes, but the 
quickbeam is definitely the best for riding in the woods and enjoying the 
sounds of the birds, frogs, katydids, etc.  Also great bike for riding back 
from a long day on the trails.


On Saturday, July 23, 2016 at 7:44:17 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Because of the mechanicles on the Quickbeam (as described at the top of 
> this thread, and which are thankfully resolved now), I hadn't done any but 
> shortish test rides in a wee while. Today I joyously took the Quickbeam out 
> on a longer ride to Rampart Reservoir. Wow. I'd forgotten how smooth and 
> silent the QB is. Single speed, supple Barlows and, everything in proper 
> working order. Butter smooth. Hear grasshoppers hop silent. Delicious! 
>
> I should have had more air in the rear tire as I got a pinch flat. First 
> and hopefully last real world use of my dinky hand pump. It barely got my 
> Barlows to 20-25 psi and that took 200 strokes. Lezyne pump for me next.
>
> Pictures prove the mountains are cool and refreshing in the dappled aspen 
> shade by the water. Just two pics today. Scroll right for the second one.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/deaconpatrick/28466140286/in/album-72157666852892563/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 1:25:59 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I ask too many questions. Grant and Co. help me anyway. My LBS doesn’t do 
>> that. Nowhere else I’ve been for bike stuff does that. So I buy from them 
>> whenever I can (or from the secondary market here, which indirectly 
>> supports them, I think, but that’s a different kettle of wax. Grin.).
>>
>> On my Quickbeam I’ve been puzzling out a series of creaks, chinks, binks, 
>> and shifts, all seeming to center the cranks, and happening in multiple 
>> layers but at least some of them always happening with each pedal stroke, 
>> mostly on the left.
>>
>> Because one layer of them was more with my climbing gear and I could see 
>> some shark toothing, I replaced both chain rings and the chain. One layer 
>> gone, remaining layer(s?) more apparent. Replaced the pedals (which do feel 
>> a bit wobbly on their axel, so I’ll rebuild), and another wee layer gone). 
>> But that last layer: how could I tell if it was cranks or BB? So I called 
>> Riv.
>>
>> After explaining my question, they asked me to hold. Grant pops on the 
>> phone! So I ask. “Try tightening the drive side cup.” Bingo. Rides smooth 
>> as butter again. Beautiful!
>>
>> Thanks, Grant!
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.OurHolyConception.org 
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: PSA 61cm atlantis frameset on ebay

[Matt B.]

On Sunday, July 3, 2016 at 5:52:41 PM UTC-4, NGross wrote:
>
> Any ideas on to what PBH this would be good for? I'm at 91.5, thinking 
> this might be too small.
>
>
Your best bet would be a 64cm, which do come up for sale now and then.

 

> On Saturday, July 2, 2016 at 6:41:28 AM UTC-7, Sky Coulter wrote:
>>
>>
>> http://m.ebay.com/itm/Toyo-Built-61cm-Rivendell-Atlantis-2-Touring-Frame-set-/112044859069?nav=SEARCH
>>
>> Sky in new west
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Smaller Riv sizing

[Matt B.]

It's probably better to go by reach, stack and STA nowadays if you know what 
you like.  But on more traditional bikes with levelish top tubes like Riv used 
to do, or especially vintage bikes i.e. with no HT extension, it's PBH - 25cm 
for a fistful of seat post and if you want the bars anywhere near saddle 
height. It does say this somewhere on Riv's website but I can't find it.   

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[RBW] Re: Dialing in stem for rough stuff

[Matt B.]

Hi Patrick, I've gone back and forth with stem length for my QB, and 
completely agree about trade-offs, e.g. for climbing and descending.  I'm 
wondering if you are just getting back into doing longer rides now that 
spring is here?   I find that after a period of not riding as much as 
usual, I end up feeling like a shorter stem would be good...but that as 
seasons change with longer days and longer rides, my body changes and I 
want a longer stem.  I use a stem right in the middle of those, so the 
goldilocks length happens about twice a year :)


On Monday, June 13, 2016 at 7:26:30 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I thought my Hunqapillar stem (9cm Tallux) was pretty dialed in. However, 
> after riding my Quickbeam with a shorter stem and simultaneously moving my 
> seat back half the difference, pedaling feels more direct and powerful, 
> position more dialed in on the QB than before. Which has me wondering if I 
> went shorter with the Hunqapillar stem, would I prefer it? Possibly 
> shifting to a 7cm Tallux would do it. I don’t want to go too short because:
>
> — Climbs: Current stem allows for enough weight on the front wheel that 
> steep single-track climbs without anything on the front rack (day rides) to 
> climb well. The shorter the stem, the harder it is to weight the front 
> wheel on climbs.
>
> Thoughts, ideas?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam / SimpleOne Sizing?

[Matt B.]

I'd go with a 62 minimum.  I'm 6'0 with a 90cm pbh and ride a 64cm 
quickbeam, it's the one (most fun) bike I use for riding singletrack. I'm 
sure I could ride a 66 like Patrick.   

On Saturday, June 11, 2016 at 10:01:33 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I'm on the lookout for a used Quickbeam or SimpleOne to replace my old 
> Trek as a city commuter. But I have a question about sizing. My Roadeo has 
> a pretty similar bottom bracket height and the 61cm frame fits my 90pbh 
> really well. So the question is, do I go with a 60 or 62 'SimpleBeam?' 
>
> Any thoughts? What are current owners' experiences? Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Matt B.]

I like SKS chromoplastic fenders, especially for riding off road.  The cap 
isn't a functional part of the stays, so you can ditch it and take a bolt 
cutter and bastard file to the ends of the stays to round them off a bit.

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Matt B.]

For the life of me I can't understand the bad rap cantilever brakes get in 
these discussions.  I've had them on most of my bikes, from old mafac or 
dia compe style to newer shimano style, and have never had a difficult time 
adjusting them or maintaining them, or using them in the rain, or snowy 
weather (provided you know what to expect from them, you can account for it 
in your riding). I ride daily year round and am sticking with cantilevers, 
but have also used and would be fine with old weinmann centerpulls, 
sidepulls, or u-brakes.  

The horrible reputation cantilevers (and now all rim brakes in some cases) 
have, when these kinds of 'this or that' argument come up, tends to make me 
mistrust similar sentiments about other technology with which I don't have 
any experience. I get the feeling issues just get blown way the hell out of 
proportion.



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[RBW] Re: Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[Matt B.]

How many gears are you using up front on your QB?   I have the two stock 
gears on mine (40, 32) and use them both frequently with a white 16/19 FW 
in back.   I keep the chainline right in the middle with a 107mm BB.

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 1:42:11 PM UTC-4, Kainalu wrote:
>
> As a wise someone once told me, perfection is an affront to god. I've now 
> got it, perfect chainline, but at what cost? Check out the picture.
> With a 103mm bottom bracket (branded Sugino, with Suntour branded 
> bearings), this is my XD2 triple after having shaved off a millimeter of 
> aluminum so it could spin freely within the bracket.
> My question: 
> How terrible was it to try this? And worse, if I want to keep the 103mm, 
> is this a spot where I, being a fairly competent metal worker, could remove 
> more material without lingering fear of catastrophic failure?? 
> Thanks
> -Kai
> Brooklyn NY
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Matt B.]

Sorry typo that should be (62.2 / 2) *+ (*2.54 x 2) - 8


On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 10:01:00 AM UTC-4, Matt B. wrote:
>
> I think the BB drop is 8 cm, so it oughta be in the neighborhood of (62.2 
> / 2) x (2.54 x 2) - 8 ~= 28.2 cm.
>
>
> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 9:10:27 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I'd ride it. Curious: what is the bb height of an Atlantis with 2" tires 
>> on it?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Matt B.]

I think the BB drop is 8 cm, so it oughta be in the neighborhood of (62.2 / 
2) x (2.54 x 2) - 8 ~= 28.2 cm.


On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 9:10:27 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'd ride it. Curious: what is the bb height of an Atlantis with 2" tires 
> on it?
>

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[RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Matt B.]

Rich built a set of wheels (rim brake) used once on a fully loaded 
on/off-road tour across northern Ontario, northern USA, and British 
Columbia-- the bike probably about 75lbs though never actually weighed-- 
but in any case it was heavy--  anyway this was on chipped-up backroads, 
through woods, across fallow fields with petrified furrows the wrong way, 
got bucked out of the saddle a few times, crashed and bent fork north of 
Lake Superior, did a leg in the Rockies from Yellowstone to Jasper AB 
(braking was fine, cantilevers), and wheels were still true after ~6000 
miles, no broken spokes.  They were 36h rear and 32h front fwiw, tires 
700x40 iirc. 


On Sunday, May 15, 2016 at 1:10:55 PM UTC-4, Rich Lesnik wrote:
>
> I've so far hesitated joining this thread. First, let me be perfectly 
> clear: I speak only for myself. Nothing I say should be construed as 
> representing "Rivendell Policy" or "Rivendell Opinion". I prefer rim brakes 
> 99 to 1 over "disc" brakes. I put "disc" in quotation marks because, of 
> course, rim brakes are disc brakes, with a much larger radius. And that 
> makes all the difference. A front disc-brake wheel is heavily dished 
> (uneven spoke tension, left to right). The proximity of the braking surface 
> to the hub increases the stress on the pulling spokes, relieving the 
> "pushing" spokes -- the flex on the looser-side spokes can work-harden the 
> bend in the spoke elbow at the hub, and it will eventually break. Same 
> thing with the rear wheel (only here the lower-tension spokes are on the 
> non-drive, left side). These spokes are already prone to breaking over the 
> long haul, as they flex more, and will work-harden more quickly. This 
> increased stress would still be problemmatic on a non-dished disc-brake 
> front wheel, as well, because of the increased stress all around, at the 
> hub. Admittedly, replacing a broken spoke is easier, and less costly, than 
> replacing a worn rim. Nonetheless, a dished front wheel presents additional 
> problems -- as the primary braking instrument, the front wheel, when 
> unevenly tensioned (side to side), can, under severe stopping conditions, 
> become unstable, provoke an accident, or even "figure-8". Not good.
>
> Additionally, disc brakes present a safety hazard to other riders. That 
> spinning, thin disc can easily become a buzz saw when presented with a 
> fallen rider's limb. Hence the ban on disc brakes by the UCI. This should 
> be an alarm bell, at least.
>
> Full disclosure: I use a disc brake as a "drag brake" on my tandem, so far 
> with no problems. That's why is "99 to 1" as opposed to 100 to zero!
>
> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:19:47 AM UTC-7, Will wrote:
>>
>> Might be nice to push back to GP and encourage more of these posts. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Jan's Appaloosa

[Matt B.]

For a split second I imagined Jan Heine sold his custom rando and bought an 
Appaloosa.

Nice looking set up, the bar tape looks really good.


On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 2:00:18 AM UTC-4, stonehog wrote:
>
> Pics of the build for my wife's new Appaloosa.  Tape in honor of the late 
> Prince.
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHskzHMauB
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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Re: [RBW] An Amusing Bike Service Anecdote

[Matt B.]

On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:33:29 AM UTC-4, Cecily Walker wrote:
>
> The strata council in my building doesn't allow us to keep bikes in our 
> units, and all the other bike rooms are full, 
>


Bummer about your neighbor.  I know if someone were messing with my bike, 
I'd consider just breaking the rules and keeping it in my apartment.  
...and anyway, how is such a restriction even legal!?  :/

Regarding the bike shop, it sounds like a cool concept to specialize in 
women's bikes so I hope they're just gaining experience and will get better 
with time.
 

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[RBW] Re: 56cm or 58cm Atlantis

[Matt B.]

The 58 is definitely not too big for 85cm pbh


On Tuesday, April 19, 2016 at 2:22:53 AM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> ok so now there is a 58cm on my local craigslist. im about 5'10 with an 85 
> pbh.  too big? wishful thinking?
>

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[RBW] Re: Ribbit brakes

[Matt B.]

I have CR720s on my quickbeam and they are great, provided you use good 
pads with them (if i remember correctly the pads they ship with aren't that 
awesome).


On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 10:30:46 AM UTC-4, alford wrote:
>
> Howdy Folks! 
>
> I have a set of the Ribbit brakes (Mafac/ Spooky copies) on my Quickbeam 
> and one of the straddle cable barrels is stripped. Found a replacement kit 
> online but the cost is about the same as one wheel worth of the Tektro 
> CR720 cantis. Wondering if I should stick to what I have or switch to the 
> Tektros?  Anyone have experience with both brakes?  
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Orange 58cm Rambouillets Is this a Mythical Beast?

[Matt B.]

Wouldn't have been as cool as the green socks IMHO.


On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 5:40:20 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Headtube matching cream.

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[RBW] Re: Ditched the dirt drops for Alba's. Not sure yet...

[Matt B.]

On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:36:53 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Plus, as a bonus, I could ride the drops/curves/hoods/forward position AND 
> have brakes. When I'm upright and cruisin', no need to brakes. That's my 
> "tra-la-la, oom-pum-tiddly-pom" Pooh position. No brakes required. At the 
> first sign of a heffalump or bees or other adventure -- "To the Hoods! 
> Whoah! Brakes. Just when I need them." 
>
>

This is exactly why I love my mustache bars so much.   They are the old 
shape mustaches, though I'd probably like the albastache shape too.  As you 
say brakes where you need em / not where you don't.

I do have albatross style bars with long-reach stem on an old 3speed 
raleigh, and they're good, but i find myself riding in the curves a lot, 
especially on rough stuff, and wishing the levers were up there.   might 
source some interrupters eventually, or go mustache on that bike too.

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Matt B.]

They are listed on the website but i remember hearing those numbers are old 
and no longer correct, or that they are 'actual' and not horizontal 
measurements, so the effective TT's are actually longer than shown.  


On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 8:15:41 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>
> They're listed on the riv Hunq frame page . 
>
> On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 8:11:36 AM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>
>> Anybody know where to find info on the effective top tube lengths of the 
>> 58 and 62 Hunqapillars?
>>
>> Thanks much. 
>> D. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: What is my Rivendell really? Crisis of identity?

[Matt B.]

On Friday, January 22, 2016 at 7:12:36 PM UTC-5, sameness wrote:

>
> As an aside, it's funny to see a spec sheet from RBW with every size from 
> 49cm to 63cm in single centimeter increments. Now it's your choice of 52, 
> 55, or 59, just get in there, you'll fit on something.
>
>
>
That's probably unavoidable for stock framesets that are made overseas.   
1cm gaps in sizing meant the frame was only made when ordered.   Even with 
the 2cm gaps in AHH sizes I bet it's near impossible to keep all variants 
in stock at any given time, and anyway with those being made at Waterford, 
it's easier to make them to order.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Relaxed Rear Geometry & Actual Effect

[Matt B.]

The slacker STA dovetails with the taller headtubes on Riv bikes, so really 
the typical cycling body position is preserved but kind of rotated slightly 
back around the BB, and you still have a totally natural position for 
pedaling, but with the added benefit that your neck is not kinked if you 
want to take in the scenery as you ride by.   It's really an old-school 
geometry.  If you look at bikes from the early 20th century, even racing 
bikes, they had slack angles and bars at saddle height or above.   I have a 
1969 raleigh that has that old geometry, and it rides almost exactly like a 
riv, though the BB is a bit higher and the build quality is not as great 
though nottingham raleighs are known for sloppy construction.   I also have 
a mid eighties specialized with a 74 deg. seat tube, and riding it, 
especially after not having ridden it for a while, definitely feels like 
you are more perched up on a high wire or something like that.  It's 
noticeable.  Not uncomfortable, since the way I ride it I still have the 
bars up within 2cm of the saddle, but just different and not as relaxed 
feeling.



On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 3:32:54 PM UTC-5, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Hi
> About 20 days ago, you replied to my question concerning relaxed STAs on 
> Rivendells.   You said you can definitely feel the relaxed  STA.
> Can you described what you feel in a little more detail
> I'm looking at an Ocean Air Rambler 650B low trail frame/fork, and it has 
> a 72degree STA and 72.5 HTA, STA same as a AHH and very similar to other 
> Rivendells.  The Rambler is more relaxed than other 650B frames out there 
> and RBWs are more relaxed than other normal trial frames also.
> My existing frames have 73.5 and 74 degrees STA, so I am not as far back 
> as I would be on a Rambler or a RBW.  I also have the bars at the saddle 
> height (Nitto Technomic used), which is the typical RBW location (at or 
> above).   While the RBWs are not low trial, I feel the relaxed rear 
> geometry effects are more or less the same regardless of trial. 
> So I'm trying to understand if you see the relaxed rear geometry effect as 
> a small, medium, or large effect and what does it feel like.  
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>  
>  
> On 12/29/15, Utah wrote:
>  
> The slack seat tube works together with the slack headtube which you can 
> definitely feel! 
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 23, 2015 at 5:32:11 PM UTC-7, John Hawrylak wrote:
>>
>> A relaxed rear geometry seems 1 major feature of all Rivendells (except 
>> the Roadeo), i.e s*lacker Seat Tube Angles (STA)are used compared to 
>> other frames*, whether large or small builder.  The STA angles of the 
>> small to medium frames vary from 71.5 deg (Sam, Joe A, San Macro) to 72.5 
>> deg (AHH, Atlantis, Ram) which are less than:
>>
>>- Small 27"/700C frames which typically have steeper STA, 73 to 74 
>>deg, to avoid toe clip overlap.  The exception being a long top tube, 
>>requiring shorter stems to maintain reach within limits
>>- Larger frames even are less than 73 deg, a typical British STA.  
>>
>> The slacker STA puts you further back, 6 to 18mm, depending on the STA 
>> compared to 73deg STA.  
>>
>> My questions to the group
>>  
>> 1.  Is the relaxed rear geometry something you can feel when compared to 
>> other frames??
>>
>> 2.  Do you see it as a positive??  
>>
>> The relaxed rear seems to go together with the higher head tube, bars up 
>> to saddle height and further back, which also seem to differentiate 
>> Rivendell, assuming lugs & great paint jobs don't affect the ride.  
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>
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[RBW] Re: Rapid Rise Rear Der

[Matt B.]

 

On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 1:49:14 AM UTC-5, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
wrote:
>
>
>
> Anyone remember the reverse shifting Sachs *front* derailleur?
>
>
I had a reverse-shifting suntour front derailleur on a Centurion once.  
Regarding Shimano RDs, I have been using rapid-rise for years now (with a 
normal FD) including a long tour across N.A. with it, and when I heard they 
had gone out of production I bought a backup.I like that it downshifts 
when bounced out of gear on bumpy trails. 

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[RBW] Re: Purple for a Riv?

[Matt B.]

Here's a purple Rivendell Road bike

http://cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/pdf/original_purple.pdf




On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 2:51:36 PM UTC-4, RJM wrote:
>
> As soon as I sell a bunch of stuff I'm ordering another Roadeo...(yes, 
> that will make two. I hav big plans ;)  ). I'm debating in my head about 
> the color choice. My current one is a Rambouillet orange and it is sweet 
> looking. I was thinking of some shade of purple for the next one but really 
> have never seen a riv with a purple paint job, something like a deep purple 
> and not too flashy. What do you all think about that color?   
> Now that I bring it up, what are your favorite colors for Rivs?
>

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[RBW] Re: Going carless?

[Matt B.]

+1 for definitely doable.I'm about a decade into carlessness, and also 
just rent one a couple times a year if at all.



On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 8:19:05 PM UTC-4, Matthew J wrote:

 Certainly doable.  I am 12 years in my experiment going carless.  Cannot 
 see myself ever getting one.

 The first two years after selling my Miata (hard to do!) I used Zip Car at 
 least a few times a month.  The last few years my day car use (went from 
 Zip to Enterprise - they are both decent) has dropped to a few times a 
 year.  

 For Chicago bike only I've found a low trail porteur style bike with a 
 nice big bag atop the big front rack works best.  I put my brief case and 
 business jacket commuting to work.  Easily fits groceries and most other 
 purchases.  

 Chicago has decent mass transit which I use from time to time.  I think 
 bike only would still work in a city that did not have as many transit 
 options. 

 On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 6:50:44 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 My daughter Catie, just entering 9th grade, asked me this afternoon, 
 Will you give me your car when I turn 16? I drive very little except to 
 ferry her around, and she sent this back to me as a good reason to do so.

 It's a 2006 PT Cruiser that I just put several thousand into, and at just 
 shy of 83K it should be good for another 60 K.

 I told her, if you can pay for it and drive yourself around, that's 
 fine. 

 Enterprise is nearby and picks one up; I'm close to bus routes, which are 
 getting better; and I hope Uber will finally prevail in its fight to start 
 business in Abq.

 We'll see  

 -- 
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

 *
 *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
 circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
 individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

 *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
  



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[RBW] Re: Carless? How many miles per day do you ride?

[Matt B.]

I'm carfree and am in kind of an urban area, maybe suburban depending on 
who you talk to.   I ride 8 miles each way to work now, but used to ride 
15-16 miles each way every weekday for several years.   That was a long 
commute but I still enjoyed it, even in rainy or snowy weather.   Virtually 
all of my groceries etc. type errands i do by just walking, but i also ride 
for fun and scenery on the weekends.



On Saturday, August 22, 2015 at 1:17:18 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:

 On average would you say? 
 Urban, suburban, or rural?

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[RBW] WTB: QB or SO Suzue wheelset

[Matt B.]

Hi All,   

I'm looking for front or rear (or both) wheels with Suzue hubs for a 
Quickbeam/Simpleone. If you have one for sale, please PM me.

Thank you,
Matt

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[RBW] Re: More Sam Love--and do you ride your Riv through winter?

[Matt B.]

Anti-seize compound works well on bolt heads and nuts to keep corrosion away
. 

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