Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: 50 cm Roadini

2024-05-14 Thread Richard Rose
I think C have a 47? Not sure how much difference their is compared to a 50 - other then 3cm.Just a thought; how about a Roaduno? Sent from my iPhoneOn May 14, 2024, at 5:29 AM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!  wrote:You guys are the best! Also, funny. Thanks for keeping your eyes peeled - with any luck, we’ll find one during riding season, and if not, there are Roadinis coming to Riv this fall. The Racing Platypus is still plenty up to the task, so I can be patient. LOn Tuesday, May 14, 2024 at 1:32:04 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:"I'm sure we'll all try and keep our eyes peeled :)"As a long time Friend Of Leah I take it as a personal affront that I haven't been able to find this bike for her yet, I've been searching like it's my JOB. Step up, people! Joe "it's gotta be here somewhere" Bernard On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 5:27:17 PM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:I'm sure we'll all try and keep our eyes peeled :) On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 7:23:01 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:I am looking to try out a RivRoad bike and specifically, a 50 cm Roadini. I’ve been looking on my own, but no luck so far. I’d like one with drop bars, so I wouldn’t have to swap out the whole setup, as this likely isn’t a forever bike…it’s an experiment. But we’ll see. If you have one for sale, or if you see one for sale, would you help your RivSister out and tell me? Thanks always!Leah



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Re: [RBW] Re: Upright / Relaxed / Swept-Back - Style of Riding

2024-05-08 Thread Richard Rose
What Doug said, almost exactly x2.Long time Roadie here but transitioned to MTB about 15 years ago - now 69. Never had serious issues with properly fit road bike. But after a lot of MTB riding it never felt right again. However, I started having pretty serious hand/wrist issues with straight MTB bars. Bought my Clem to have something comfortable to ride when not mountain biking. Instantly comfortable for all rides/surfaces and for up to six+ hours. So I got a Gus to have a swept back MTB. Both are superbly comfortable. Now I am back riding road/gravel when I do not want to drive to the trail. But when I do drive to the trail it’s more fun than ever.Sent from my iPhoneOn May 8, 2024, at 9:45 PM, Doug H.  wrote:When I bought my Clem Smith Jr it was a revelation in riding. I had ridden mostly drop bars for many years and like you I would have shoulder and neck pain after long rides. The Clem with Tosco bars and an upright riding position solved my aches and pains immediately. I also discovered I could ride for 3 hours without pain and my mileage wasn't much less than with a "road bike". I recently bought a Roadini with drop bars. The bars were up nice and high so I don't think I would have experienced neck or shoulder pain. But, I decided to swap the drop bars for Albatross bars. Swept back bars are my preferred and only bars now.  This is what works for me but I don't recommend it to people necessarily. I just share my experience and preferences if asked. Another thing about an upright posture is being able to take in the scenery better as I ride. Like I said, it was a revelation for me and has transformed my riding experience.DougOn Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 9:28:41 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:I was always aware of bikes with a very relaxed geometry / setup, and it wasn't until I started seeing Rivendell bikes and watching youtube videos of people riding them that I really thought about it - is it more comfortable than drop bars, even if I have a more neutral (not aggressive) position on the bike (i.e., bars close to level with saddle)?  Would this be a good option for just cruising around, but for 1-2 hours?  If I didn't get along well with flat bars on mountain bike, would swept back bars be better?I'm going to ramble a bit here, my apologies in advance.  I haven't thought long enough about this to formulate my question succinctly.  Hopefully you get where I'm coming from.Quick background- been riding a little over 20 years (closing in on 50!)- started with mountain biking (hardtail, singletrack); moved to road; tried mountain biking two more times (I love being in nature) but didn't like the thrill/danger, and hated the idea of driving to the trail head; have been mainly on the road for last 15 years, though with 10 years of 'gravel' bikes/riding- I've had ongoing issues with my cervical spine (nothing serious) and this leads to some problems when riding in any sort of aggressive position on the bike; I see a chiro regularly; stretch a lot; workout / strength training; have had numerous bike fits- I have a Roadini, Salsa Fargo and a road bike (25mm tires, but custom made and really does fit like a glove, for road)- I don't care about performance at all, I just love riding bikes, in particular when roads are not busy, or on trails, gravel roads, etc.On a good day (75% of the time), I can ride any of these bikes and during the ride I feel pretty good (little to no pain), maybe a bit of pain after (could be neck/shoulders, but anywhere else really), and after stretching I feel great in a 1/2 to full day.  I ride 4-5x a week, workout 1-2 times spring-fall and more in the winter.  But at least once a week, and maybe twice, I'll be riding, sometimes tired as it's after work, and within an hour I'm running low on energy and probably start to develop a bad posture on the bike, over-using my arms which causes problems in my neck and shoulders, leading to upper body aches/pains (while riding, and after).  Takes a lot of stretching and awareness to reset.  This is what I'm trying to resolve (move from 75% to 99%)My guess is that even with a bike like the Roadini or Salsa, with bars about level with the saddle, and even with a professional fitting on each, when I want to ride but I'm lacking energy, it goes poorly.  But is that because these bikes are "kind of" aggressive (when compared to say a spine angle closer to 70% and swept back bars)?  Or is it simply a combination of age, history of some 'issues', low on energy and thus bad posture kicks in, and would any bike be a joy to ride, or should I just go for a walk on those days!?I would love to hear from those who ride both drop bars and also swept back (or similar) in a way more relaxed geometry, or those who transitioned to mainly this style, because it almost fully resolved your issues, if they're anyway similar to mine.  On a day when you're not feeling it, but you have to commute or just love to ride, do you leave the drop bar bike in the garage and hop on your 

Re: [RBW] FS: Supernova dynamo lights

2024-04-30 Thread Richard Rose
PM sent as well.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 28, 2024, at 10:43 PM, Jay Lonner  wrote:Up for sale here are two sets of Supernova lights that are takeoffs from our Bike Fridays (Bikes Friday? What would William Safire say…). Each set includes a black anodized E3 Pro 2 headlight and Tail Light 2. The headlights are on Multimounts , and have spade connectors for a SON dynohub along with factory wiring to power the taillights. Mounted once, never used. Great lights, but dealing with the taillight wires really isn’t practical for bikes that will be broken down and reassembled frequently. We’re going to stick with dynamo headlights and USB rechargeable taillights. Each set would run ~$250 new, I’m looking for $125 per set, and I’ll cover the shipping. Willing to sell them separately.Jay LonnerBellingham, WA



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Re: [RBW] The 3x1 road bike. Anticipating some of your RoadUNO builds

2024-04-26 Thread Richard Rose
It’s funny because they just released more details including a “probable” pre sale in June. A month or two back they announced the lugged Susie presale. The next day there was a guy on Instagram riding his lugged Susie!! Had to be a prototype or sample, right?I really want to “commit” but need is not part of the equation. Resisting in Toledo may be futile.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 26, 2024, at 8:25 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:Committing to yourself is the first step.  Stating it on the RBW Group is legally and morally binding, also, so that's step two.  If you wanted to get really committed, email Will and see if Will is able to take your money, or if Will already knows you, you may be able to convince him to agree to hold one for you in your size.  He may tell you to wait until they are ready to do a pre-sale.  BL in ECOn Friday, April 26, 2024 at 5:02:01 PM UTC-7 philip@gmail.com wrote:I said: “I’m getting one!”P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Apr 26, 2024, at 4:52 PM, Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:How does one “commit” to a RoadUNO at this point?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 26, 2024, at 7:19 PM, P W <philip@gmail.com> wrote:Brilliant Bill.And good reference/inspiration.I tried out an Uno on Monday.And committed to a 57 for myself!I’m really excited by the bike and it’s build and ride prospects.Mine’s gonna look like a late 80s MTB disguised as a 3spd road bike, for sure tho!P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:26 AM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com> wrote:Thanks to unintentional prodding from Leah, I've pressed my new-to-me Romulus into service.  Some serindipitous objects in my parts inventory enabled a build concept that is functionally similar to the forthcoming RoadUNO.  It's got a single 18T freewheel, a Paul Melvin tensioner (from Joe B), a triple crank with 46/36/24 rings and a single DT shifter for the front derailleur.  This morning I "upgraded" the front derailleur to a Campy Mirage, which qualifies this bike for my "Every Bike should have one Campy Part" club:https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72157719595208740/The other upgrade from this morning is I swapped out the front wheel to a quick release front hub, rather than the bolt-on Phil track hub.  I will likely rebuild that Phil front wheel with a dynamo hub.  Now the F+R hubs are both black.  Also, I "downgraded" to much skinnier tires.  This accomplishes two things: It allows wheel removal without deflation -AND- it generates ample clearance for fenders.  The three gears are 35/53/68 inches with these tires.  I'm becoming progressively more and more "SOLD" on the validity of 3x1 as a build concept.  It works.  I may end up doing my May 2024 monthly Diablo summit on the RoadTrio.  Even though I'm not buying a RoadUNO, I'm excited to see who else gives 3x1 a try with an open mind and concurs that it works for them.  Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA



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Re: [RBW] The 3x1 road bike. Anticipating some of your RoadUNO builds

2024-04-26 Thread Richard Rose
How does one “commit” to a RoadUNO at this point?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 26, 2024, at 7:19 PM, P W  wrote:Brilliant Bill.And good reference/inspiration.I tried out an Uno on Monday.And committed to a 57 for myself!I’m really excited by the bike and it’s build and ride prospects.Mine’s gonna look like a late 80s MTB disguised as a 3spd road bike, for sure tho!P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:26 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:Thanks to unintentional prodding from Leah, I've pressed my new-to-me Romulus into service.  Some serindipitous objects in my parts inventory enabled a build concept that is functionally similar to the forthcoming RoadUNO.  It's got a single 18T freewheel, a Paul Melvin tensioner (from Joe B), a triple crank with 46/36/24 rings and a single DT shifter for the front derailleur.  This morning I "upgraded" the front derailleur to a Campy Mirage, which qualifies this bike for my "Every Bike should have one Campy Part" club:https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72157719595208740/The other upgrade from this morning is I swapped out the front wheel to a quick release front hub, rather than the bolt-on Phil track hub.  I will likely rebuild that Phil front wheel with a dynamo hub.  Now the F+R hubs are both black.  Also, I "downgraded" to much skinnier tires.  This accomplishes two things: It allows wheel removal without deflation -AND- it generates ample clearance for fenders.  The three gears are 35/53/68 inches with these tires.  I'm becoming progressively more and more "SOLD" on the validity of 3x1 as a build concept.  It works.  I may end up doing my May 2024 monthly Diablo summit on the RoadTrio.  Even though I'm not buying a RoadUNO, I'm excited to see who else gives 3x1 a try with an open mind and concurs that it works for them.  Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA



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Re: [RBW] Long wheelbase = long chain

2024-04-25 Thread Richard Rose
Count how many links you have now. Call Will & Riv & he will use their bulk chain to send you one the correct length. EZPZ. Cheaper than buying two & easier.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 25, 2024, at 10:58 AM, Edwin W  wrote:I have a Joe Appa with long chain stays, which necessitates a long chain, longer than a single chain.For all of you out there with a long chain bike, what are your best tips/tricks/techniques for purchasing a chain. Where do you go for a long chain?What else do you think about with chain replacement, maintenance, etc...Lifelong learner, breaking cobbled together chains,Edwin



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Re: [RBW] Re: Evening Spring Ride on the Clem

2024-04-23 Thread Richard Rose
Gordon, can you post a close up pic of your shifter setup? Thanks!Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 21, 2024, at 6:50 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:Welcome back, congratulations on the Clem, and thanks for the binocular suggestion. I lean toward the Carson since its price is more in line with my very occasional and casual use, and because it's so compact.On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 11:09 AM Gordon Stam  wrote:Hello all,Gordon Stam here. I used to post on this forum, or one like it (I recognize a few names) back in the mid 00s after I bought my Romulus. In the intervening years I drifted away from cycling (I developed a motorcycle habit) but I'm back with the purchase of a 59cm Clem Smith Jr frame which I've built into a parts bin special. I've been lurking for a month or so but this thread has three touchstones for me: the Clem, the Central Coast, and binoculars. Nice shots of your Clem in the trees Chris. I went to school at Cal Poly many years ago,... Regarding binoculars check out the Maven C2 7x28. Maven makes good binos but a wee bit more expensive than those Carson. A better bino though. As far as taking them on a ride I just loop mine over my shoulder bandolier style (see below). With these upright bikes they ride against your chest, or side, pretty unobtrusively and are ready for viewing at a moments notice. I use paracord for a strap with a couple of slip knots for length adustment. This is the Maven B3 6x30. A step up from the C series but a right dandy unit. Costs less than a high end wheelset though!



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Re: [RBW] Building up a 45cm Clem for a 5'2 rider

2024-04-21 Thread Richard Rose
osco could work for that I imagine, with the shifters and levers further up and gives her options. Alternatively was thinking Losco could be good, too.  Might have her try the Vegan saddle as well.On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 5:06:06 AM UTC-4 John Johnson wrote:Hi Igor,For a 5'2" rider (I'm not going to assume it's for a lady or for your friend!), the 45cm Clem is perfect. Obviously there is no "objective" right answer for which bars to use, and it's gonna depend on different factors (I know I'm not dropping any mind-blowing information, but just to lay the groundwork for my suggestions). I'd ask the following questions:What year Clem is it? The older Clems had shorter top tubes (less reach) than the newer (2019 and post) models. What is the intended use? Tooling around, commuting, touring, mountain biking? How does the rider like to be positioned? Aggressive and racy? Upright and comfy? What is the rider's morphology? Long torso, short legs? Long legs, short torso? Normal legs, normal torso?Are there aesthetic considerations? Are there cost considerations?For me (an N of 1 - I am 5'8", longer torso with very short legs, for reference), I currently ride a Clem 45 L (longer reach 2019 model, but still with 26" wheels before the switch to 27.5") with a 70cm Nitto Tallux at the minimum insertion and 60cm Tosco bars and I couldn't be happier. My wife rides a Clem 45 L with Soma Oxford bars and I really like that set up too, but I find the Oxfords at 54cm (identical to Nitto Albatross) a tad bit narrow for my taste. I rode my pre-2019 Clem H with a Riv Bullmoose (67cm) and it was totally great - but I was running that bike single speed and as a dedicated mountain bike - I don't love the 30° sweep for longer rides (on longer rides, I want 45-60° sweep). I tried Boscos for a minute (I think it was the 54cm that came stock on my wife's Clem), but I felt almost cartoonishly upright and didn't feel connected enough with the bike. For your rider, at 5'2", I'm guessing you have a newer (post 2019 geo changes) Clem and it's likely they'll want swept back bars of some sort. I think the Albatross (or Soma Oxford) are perfect for the Clem  - right rise, sweep, width, and good looking to boot. The Toscos, like I mentioned, are great, but I'd opt for the 55cm model probably in your rider's case. Re: the Boscos, I'm a bit taller than your rider, so maybe Boscos would do the trick in their case. Lastly, if they don't want a relaxed position, you've got a billion options of flat or riser bars with minimal sweep, but I won't bother with recs. cheers,John (outside Fontainebleau)On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 6:36:58 AM UTC+2 Kim H. wrote:@Igor -I have a couple of Terry women's saddles that are lightly used to sell, if you are interested for your lady friend.https://www.terrybicycles.com/Cite-X-Gel-Italiahttps://www.terrybicycles.com/Liberator-XContact me off this group for more details and pictures.Kim Hetzel. On Thursday, April 4, 2024 at 7:52:34 PM UTC-7 Richard Rose wrote:A lot of nice bars to choose from. That said, the Bosco is perfect. The extra rise is great as it results in less stem exposed than with the Tosco. I suggest one of the three FacePlater stems makes life so much easier & the older tig welded one is currently on sale, I think. But, without the frame & handlebar at hand it’s guesswork at best regarding stem length. I am 5’10”, ride a 52 Clem with Bosco & 135 FacePlater. I do not know how much shorter the reach is on the 45, but I would guess a stem closer to 70-80? Call Riv & ask them, they give excellent advice. Or, try to get your hands n a few different (cheap) stems to try?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 4, 2024, at 9:28 PM, Igor <belopol...@gmail.com> wrote:Any suggestions or ways to "know" what stem or bars to use? Not sure where to begin.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Who’s getting a Platypus tomorrow?

2024-04-20 Thread Richard Rose
Tio, pretty sure that’s a “Mermaid” colored Platy. Never knew I needed a Mermaid bike until I got one.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 20, 2024, at 12:28 PM, tio ryan  wrote:





Can you tell us more about why the new stem/bar is a pleasant change?I think it's because getting around the city involves frequent stops and starts and I often find myself riding out of the saddle to accelerate. With the tosco and albatross bars, it felt like my hands were behind me when I was out of the saddle and I had less control. When seated, the new setup has me in a more tucked position resulting in a ride that has felt less sluggish. I also had my saddle too low for a while which definitely wasn't helping.. It’s interesting to see the variations on the Platypus frames from previous years -- lovely setup, Steve! I’ve been wondering what the official name of that color is. It’s my fave!-tio in brooklynOn Friday, April 19, 2024 at 9:51:29 PM UTC-4 Steve wrote:Forgive my photo bombing this thread - but I can't resist. Let's just say I'm posting in response to Bill so anyone following along will be able to contrast the new lugged tubes with the older brazed ones    ;- )On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 7:03:41 PM UTC-4 schralp wrote:I just noticed how they changed the transition from the “top” tube to the twin rear stays. So different from my Platy. Mine sweep past the seat tube and melt into it. Not sure how I missed the design change. Beautiful bike and glad it’s getting close to your ideal setup…-BillOn Fri, Apr 19, 2024 at 12:43 PM tio ryan  wrote:Hope it's okay to give this thread a bump! I wanted to share how my setup has evolved over the past couple months. Although the previous setup was comfortable, I was experiencing fender rub through turns and it drove me crazy, so I removed the fenders. My thinking was I already have fenders on my other 2 bikes and I'd prefer not to commute in the rain with my Platypus, if possible. After removing the fenders, I changed the pedals. The sw taco pedals were much bigger than I needed and they were getting in the way with the low bb on this bike. I switched the pedals out for sw tiny bubbly pedals I was using on my Kuwahara. I also swapped the b17 for a regal I scored off this list from Julian. For aesthetics, I polished the seat post and shellacked the chainstay protector. From the beginning I knew I wanted a rear rack, so I finally ordered a shiny rear rack from Riv. It's getting warmer here and I'll soon need to switch over to a pannier for my daily commute. I wanted the cockpit to be more sporty, so I ordered a 60mm Nitto 90-190 stem and Ahearne Map bars which did the trick splendidly. It's such a pleasant change from the tosco/tallux combo the bike came with. Finally, I removed the basket from the campee rack as I no longer had a need for it on this bike. Here's how my Platypus is looking now:I'll add the ferrule back to the derailer cable once I settle on the thumb shifter. It's a suntour power ratchet for now. On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 9:25:45 AM UTC-5 tio ryan wrote:Thrilled to be part of the Riv family! I just commuted to work on my Platy and was smiling ear to ear the entire way. I even got a friendly ding-ding from a fellow Riv rider traveling in the opposite direction (I've seen a few others here in Brooklyn over the years). I'm sure more changes will come with time, I'm curious to see myself how it'll look in a year or two. In the near future, I know I'd like to add a rear rack, or maybe a bag. Steve, that's exactly what it is! I'm not even sure who makes this particular one, but it had been strapped to my old man's Hardrock since the early 90s. It's quite nice inverted on a step-thru since the underside of the bag has a reinforced/padded strap that's very comfortable to sit on, or to rest your feet. It also doesn't hurt that it can fit some tools as I'm still dialing in my saddle/bar heights & angles. It was this Blue Lug/Riv video where I saw one on Roman's bike and copied the idea. It's fantastic.-tioOn Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 7:22:41 PM UTC-5 steve...@gmail.com wrote:Tio - I meant to ask about the bag -- Inverted MTB portage bag?On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 7:18:31 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote:Tio, you've got yourself a good looking Platypus there!!!   It's always nice to see another Man On A Mixte.   Enjoy!!!StevePlatypusRitchey OutbackSampson Silverton 650b conversionOn Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 12:38:44 PM UTC-5 tio ryan wrote:After years of admiration, I finally talked myself into purchasing a 50cm Platypus complete (Sergio Green) back in November. It arrived mid-December and brought my current fleet of bikes to 3, each with a different wheel size: 26", 700c, and now 650b. This purchase was also my first brand new complete bicycle in over 25 years. I chose the complete since I liked the cranks/wheels, but knowing how much I like to tinker I should have realized it wouldn't stay that way for long. I rode the bike stock for a short while before 

Re: [RBW] Re: Sizing question for "in between" PBH measurement

2024-04-19 Thread Richard Rose
Right on cue I was just comparing (via bike insights) my Clem L size 52 to the 54.5 AHH. The upcoming Roaduno is reportedly “essentially a Homer”. I have been wondering if I would be able to achieve a Roaduno fit similar to my Clem. It would appear that might be difficult. Stack is good on the AHH, so I can get the bars high. But the reach! 99mm, nearly 10cm shorter? And I use a 135 FacePlater on the Clem in order to get the Bosco’s in a good place. And the wheelbase; Clem’s is more than 17cm longer!! I know the Roaduno & Clem are by design markedly different animals. But this certainly proves the worth of the kind of information available from bike insights. Much to my disappointment, the Roaduno might not be for me.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 19, 2024, at 11:53 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:Bike Insights is terrific way to visualize Stack and Reach.  It's excellent.  The fact they have a huge "inventory" of bike data makes it particularly convenient, especially if you have a bike you love that's already in there.  It can get really tricky for some Rivendells because Riv doesn't have "model years" or batch identifiers, so sometimes you may be looking at the wrong thing.  BL in ECOn Friday, April 19, 2024 at 5:21:14 AM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:Without taking a deep dive into the geometry numbers I wanted to share my personal experience.  For reference my other Rivs are a 62 Sam and a 60 Platypus. My PBH is 93.5 cm. Going by Rivendell's approach to sizing I ordered a 61.5 Homer earlier this year. I ordered the Platypus and the AHH at the same time and asked Will to hold off on shipping them because I was scheduled to be away from home for an extended period. My plan for the AHH was to use it as a drop bar road bike. While I was waiting for the bikes to ship I studied the geometry comparisons on Bike Insights of my 62 Sam and the 61.5 AHH. After much hand wringing I became considered that the reach was longer then I was comfortable with. After discussing it with Will I decided to size down to the 58 Homer knowing that this would be a drop bar set up. Comparing the 58 Homer to the 62 Sam that I already own the geometry was pretty close. I am riding the Homer with a 8 cm stem and Noodle bars. The Sam has a 5 Cm stem and Crust X Nitto Shaka bars.  There is a little more seat post showing than I normally would have but at the end of the day I am perfectly happy with the fit of the 58 Homer. If you have uncertainty about sizing my recommendation is to consult geo sites like Bike Insights but it's really important to talk to the guys at Rivendell. They do a great job with size recommendation. On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 9:04:11 PM UTC-4 Mathias Steiner wrote:This is a useful discussion.I looked up Sam geometry for myself. The bikes that fit me have top tube lengths of 56 to 59 cm, and they come in seat tube lengths from 52 to 64 cm -- that last one a Cannondale ST600 in 25", great riding bike, that gives me basically zero standover clearance. I ride it with a Nitto Noodle and a 60 mm long Technomic stem.The 57 cm Sam has an "effective "top-tube length of 60 cm.The 54 cm has 58 cm, right in the middle of my accustomed range.My Bruce Gordon/Taiwan BLT has just about the same geometry as my Cannondale T400 in 23" size -- 58.4 cm top tube, and those bikes fit really well. The BLT is the one with the 52 cm (c-to-c) seat tube. I talked to the man himself whne I bought it, because that seemed so small, and he convinced me (*).So for me, 6 foot nothing and 89 cm PBH, I'd get the 54 Sam since I want the drop bar, never mind the Rivendell sizing charts. They can say "works great with drops or upright bars," and not really be wrong," but it's hardly the same bike then.  I took this picture on my winter beater to illustrate the point. There's 10-15 cm difference in the hand positions between the drop bar (VO Randonneur) and the Nitto Northrads bar, which has fairly mild width and backsweep.  With an Albatross or Bosco, I might want the 60 cm Sam with the  61.5 top tube and the 87.9 cm standover. cheers -mathias(*) Bruce Gordon was nice to me!Wasn't there a T shirt with that slogan? We lost an icon when he died.On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 8:20:44 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:That I can't say BUT if you go with the 54 might I suggest the Billie bars? They are similar to the Albatross but go back a bit further. Quite luxurious.On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 8:13:32 PM UTC-4 Robert Calton wrote:That does make sense. I wonder if a 130 stem with the Albatross bars on the 51 would give enough knee clearance, because I definitely want to run those bars. On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 8:08:44 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:I would never question Rivendell's knowledge on anything at all but like I said their method of sizing bikes for people does not work for me personally. If you are comfortable on the 55 Salsa the 54 SH will feel a lot bigger. The 51 will likely feel pretty close. But I don't want to discourage sizing up especially if you 

Re: [RBW] Re: Rack(s) for Clem

2024-04-19 Thread Richard Rose
Oops! My reply should have been to Igor.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 19, 2024, at 9:33 AM, Richard Rose  wrote:Hello Ian. I have a few racks for my Clem L (52) that I quite like. First is a Riv “Shiny” rack. It is very sturdy/rigid and supports panniers nicely. I have also used it as a saddlebag support. I also have a Nitto R10 for bag support. It works great & is beautiful. Perhaps a bit against the grain I also use a Tumbleweed “T rack”. I have used this as a front rack on the Clem & a rear rack on my Gus. It is unique in that it has three bolt mounts built in to the vertical struts. I mount King many things caves and use fork bags. I mount a Wald basket to the platform. It works great & certainly would be a good large handlebar bag support.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 19, 2024, at 9:04 AM, ian m  wrote:I have one of the Pletscher rear racks Riv sold as the "Clem rack" if you're interested. Has the removable pannier rails.On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 8:16:50 AM UTC-4 Igor wrote:What racks do folks like for their Clem? I am selling my campee racks because they are not a good fit on the wider-dropouts of a Clem, and I'd like something simpler for rear.1 for my wife, 1 for me (We both will have a Clem soon...orange one coming for me :D )I am looking at the RB14 and also the Rivendell Big Rack. I'm probably OK with just a saddle bag, and she may want panniers, so I figure the Big Rack for her, but maybe some other options out there to consider?Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Re: Rack(s) for Clem

2024-04-19 Thread Richard Rose
Hello Ian. I have a few racks for my Clem L (52) that I quite like. First is a Riv “Shiny” rack. It is very sturdy/rigid and supports panniers nicely. I have also used it as a saddlebag support. I also have a Nitto R10 for bag support. It works great & is beautiful. Perhaps a bit against the grain I also use a Tumbleweed “T rack”. I have used this as a front rack on the Clem & a rear rack on my Gus. It is unique in that it has three bolt mounts built in to the vertical struts. I mount King many things caves and use fork bags. I mount a Wald basket to the platform. It works great & certainly would be a good large handlebar bag support.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 19, 2024, at 9:04 AM, ian m  wrote:I have one of the Pletscher rear racks Riv sold as the "Clem rack" if you're interested. Has the removable pannier rails.On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 8:16:50 AM UTC-4 Igor wrote:What racks do folks like for their Clem? I am selling my campee racks because they are not a good fit on the wider-dropouts of a Clem, and I'd like something simpler for rear.1 for my wife, 1 for me (We both will have a Clem soon...orange one coming for me :D )I am looking at the RB14 and also the Rivendell Big Rack. I'm probably OK with just a saddle bag, and she may want panniers, so I figure the Big Rack for her, but maybe some other options out there to consider?Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 52cm Sam Hillborne Complete Albatross-build Bike (Waterford frame, Taiwan fork) $1800

2024-04-16 Thread Richard Rose
Try posting one pic at a time.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 16, 2024, at 7:55 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:This is for a phone, I take screenshots of the photos and it works. On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 2:00:30 PM UTC-7 Rich Lesnik wrote:Can anyone tell me how to post photos on the forum? I have 7 photos of the previously listed 52cm Sam, but keep getting a "message too large" notification when I try to post them.On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 1:40:04 PM UTC-7 Rich Lesnik wrote:This is my old Sam, returned to me by my brother who doesn't ride it anymore. Color is sage green. Suntour XCPro front/rear detailers, wheels built by me, Deore hubs, Atlas (rear) Synergy (front) rims. Sugino XD2 triple crank. Includes B67 honey saddle, Gripking pedals. Local Bay Area pickup. Photos available on request (unless someone can tell me how to post photos on the forum!)



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Re: [RBW] FS: Swift Cascade rolltop Pannier set, maybe a Fab's Chest large

2024-04-09 Thread Richard Rose
I lucked into a set of these exact panniers a couple of years ago. They are really great & after doing a little research it seems they are highly collectible. Great price imho.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 8, 2024, at 9:52 AM, Austin Plocher  wrote:Swift Pannier Set - $1752x Panniers: vinyl interior lining, external zip pocket, carrying handle, reflective strips, hook and bungee cord mounting system, D-rings... Don't have exact specs on interior volume but can carry plenty. I did one bikepacking trip with these but otherwise in good shape, everything in working order. Made back when Swift was MUSA, I believe.Gauging interest in Classic Large Fabio's Chest Burgundy, can take pics if anyone's interested. Would sell for something like $175 also? Missing one magnetic snap, doesn't really affect functionality. Came like that from Ron's, they offered to fix but timing never lined up to send back.Pics of Swift panniers attached



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Re: [RBW] Re: Soliciting opinions: help me pick the right Rivendell

2024-04-06 Thread Richard Rose
I am curious about the specific nature of the trails you ride. Smooth dirt? Rocks & Roots? Lots of twists & turns? If pretty much innocuous I haven’t much to add to the conversation. But if the trails you ride get a little rowdy grab yourself a lugged Susie (or any Susie/Gus). Truly capable mtb’s and smooth as silk on pavement / gravel. Get yourself a second set of wheels reserved for dedicated pavement rides.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 6, 2024, at 8:58 AM, DavidP  wrote:"My ideal bike would be something that could ride 15-20 miles to the trail and then 10-15 more on the trail. And also manage chipotle, beer, and post office runs."That's about 60/40 pavement/trail, add in the errands and other stuff and it's more like 70/30.What tire size is ideal for the trails you are riding? What tire size is the minimum to enjoy them? I'd probably try to aim for something in the lower half of that range given the pavement/trail mix and desire for the bike to feel sporty.If the tire size is less than 2" then that opens up the Sam (48s w/o fenders). If you'd rather have something in the 2" - 2.25" range that's Appaloosa, Atlantis, Platypus territory. Larger than that Clem or Susie.-DaveOn Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 5:50:01 AM UTC-4 Ed Carolipio wrote:Sounds like you want the OG - the Atlantis. Here's Ron talking about his third Atlantis, which is also the bike he bent the Albatross for to create the Ortho bar:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_0qSPMps48The Sam is also a good alternative: shorter chainstays and a slightly lighter frame. I don't own one but people report it is a bit nimbler on the trails than the longer chainstay models.I'd exclude the Clem, the Susie/Gus, the Appaloosa, and the Platypus since IMO they won't work as well with bendy bars with their longish front-centers. I'd exclude the AHH, the Roadini, and the Roadeo since all take caliper brakes which limits the tire widths for off road or unpaved riding.Good luck and hope you find a bike (Riv or otherwise) that helps you with your bike journey.--Ed C.Redondo Beach, CAOn Friday, April 5, 2024 at 5:43:49 PM UTC-7 Bud Suttree wrote:Hi all,

Been enjoying these forums for a while now, with my first post I’d like to lean on the immense collective wisdom here and get some help with picking out the right Rivendell model. I’ve done quite a lot of personal research and spoken to Riv at least once but would like to open things up to the group for general discussion. 

Short sketch of my problem: I love bicycles, but haven’t enjoyed riding them in a long time. I have quite a few, and they all are unpleasant to ride for one reason or another. My priorities are, in descending order: comfort, performance (perceived), utility, price/aesthetics (tie), performance (actual), and at the end would be the ability to do any outer-boundary/end-of-spectrum type activity, riding across the country or racing crits, etc. My ideal bike would be something that could ride 15-20 miles to the trail and then 10-15 more on the trail. And also manage chipotle, beer, and post office runs. 

Every time I browse the Riv offerings I become convinced I need a different model. I’m thinking maybe the Atlantis would suit me, but I don’t necessarily love the double top tube, and I’d probably be between the 57 and 59. The Appaloosa seems pretty similar, but I’m not crazy about either of the current colors. Can’t say I can tell the difference between that one and the Sam, but I like the Sam aesthetic better. I’m also tempted by the gold Susie/Wolbis, but since I’ll be riding mostly around town, worry that it might not feel as agile as the bikes I’m use to riding do.

That’s the short version — would welcome any takes or opinions. 

Longer story:

Like the rest of you, I love bicycles. A substantial amount of my attention is given to them, day after day, in one way or another. Unfortunately, lately this has not translated into actually riding them very often. It’s a paradoxical state, induced by having too many (project) bikes, none of which I can tolerate to ride for more than half an hour. It’s mostly a comfort issue. FWIW, I am a not unhealthy late 20something male with probably poorish posture from desk-jockeying. I rode an aluminum Cannondale road bike daily for five years, crashed, broke some bones and swore it off for two, then entered this present cycle. 

Economic realities necessitate the need to flip bikes and parts to fund the passion. Maybe you think that’s a dirty trade; most are. I’ve had the good fortune to pick up an outrageously rare old school BMX bike for essentially nothing that should cover a very nice Rivendell build, and hopefully obviate the need to engage in as much cycling commerce. 

Along the way, I’ve acquired an interesting stable:

93 Bridgestone RB-1 and MB-2
Custom 90s Ciocc w/ Columbus EL and Chorus
93ish lugged Trek 990
1985 Trek 620

and a cache of interesting parts, so it’s not been for nothing, but I don’t like riding any of those bikes. Had (still have?) big 

Re: [RBW] Building up a 45cm Clem for a 5'2 rider

2024-04-05 Thread Richard Rose
imal sweep, but I won't bother with recs. cheers,John (outside Fontainebleau)On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 6:36:58 AM UTC+2 Kim H. wrote:@Igor -I have a couple of Terry women's saddles that are lightly used to sell, if you are interested for your lady friend.https://www.terrybicycles.com/Cite-X-Gel-Italiahttps://www.terrybicycles.com/Liberator-XContact me off this group for more details and pictures.Kim Hetzel. On Thursday, April 4, 2024 at 7:52:34 PM UTC-7 Richard Rose wrote:A lot of nice bars to choose from. That said, the Bosco is perfect. The extra rise is great as it results in less stem exposed than with the Tosco. I suggest one of the three FacePlater stems makes life so much easier & the older tig welded one is currently on sale, I think. But, without the frame & handlebar at hand it’s guesswork at best regarding stem length. I am 5’10”, ride a 52 Clem with Bosco & 135 FacePlater. I do not know how much shorter the reach is on the 45, but I would guess a stem closer to 70-80? Call Riv & ask them, they give excellent advice. Or, try to get your hands n a few different (cheap) stems to try?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 4, 2024, at 9:28 PM, Igor <belopol...@gmail.com> wrote:Any suggestions or ways to "know" what stem or bars to use? Not sure where to begin.



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Re: [RBW] Building up a 45cm Clem for a 5'2 rider

2024-04-05 Thread Richard Rose
Hmm.., I’ve not run into this problem on my 52 Clem. I do run my FacePlater quite high - 14 of the 16cm available exposed. But, I am able to drop it down a lot which I discovered while searching for the perfect height. I do concede that might not be the case with a 45 frame. Going with a shorter quill would cause me to even more highly recommend the Bosco bar. You almost cannot get the bars too high on a Clem. Although that could just be my 69 year old self talking.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 5, 2024, at 9:02 AM, Johnny Alien  wrote:Note when choosing stem (as I see a Faceplater was suggested), the smaller sizes have headtubes that don't go very deep. I face this on the 50-52 sizes. Those SUPER tall stems that Rivendell sells will not go very far in and thus you are forced to have a ton of stem exposed. Couple that with a bar like the Bosco and you will be way way way up with no way to get it lower. Pick up a stem that does not have the super long lengths. Go short even if you have any uprise to it or are planning to use handlebars that also have height. The losco bars are my favorite bars and perfect for a racy upright mix. Also they are the best looking bars that Riv sells (IMO)On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 8:48:53 AM UTC-4 Igor wrote:This is a 2023 45cm Clem. I'm looking at putting her in a somewhat middle between racy and upright. Bosco could work for that I imagine, with the shifters and levers further up and gives her options. Alternatively was thinking Losco could be good, too.  Might have her try the Vegan saddle as well.On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 5:06:06 AM UTC-4 John Johnson wrote:Hi Igor,For a 5'2" rider (I'm not going to assume it's for a lady or for your friend!), the 45cm Clem is perfect. Obviously there is no "objective" right answer for which bars to use, and it's gonna depend on different factors (I know I'm not dropping any mind-blowing information, but just to lay the groundwork for my suggestions). I'd ask the following questions:What year Clem is it? The older Clems had shorter top tubes (less reach) than the newer (2019 and post) models. What is the intended use? Tooling around, commuting, touring, mountain biking? How does the rider like to be positioned? Aggressive and racy? Upright and comfy? What is the rider's morphology? Long torso, short legs? Long legs, short torso? Normal legs, normal torso?Are there aesthetic considerations? Are there cost considerations?For me (an N of 1 - I am 5'8", longer torso with very short legs, for reference), I currently ride a Clem 45 L (longer reach 2019 model, but still with 26" wheels before the switch to 27.5") with a 70cm Nitto Tallux at the minimum insertion and 60cm Tosco bars and I couldn't be happier. My wife rides a Clem 45 L with Soma Oxford bars and I really like that set up too, but I find the Oxfords at 54cm (identical to Nitto Albatross) a tad bit narrow for my taste. I rode my pre-2019 Clem H with a Riv Bullmoose (67cm) and it was totally great - but I was running that bike single speed and as a dedicated mountain bike - I don't love the 30° sweep for longer rides (on longer rides, I want 45-60° sweep). I tried Boscos for a minute (I think it was the 54cm that came stock on my wife's Clem), but I felt almost cartoonishly upright and didn't feel connected enough with the bike. For your rider, at 5'2", I'm guessing you have a newer (post 2019 geo changes) Clem and it's likely they'll want swept back bars of some sort. I think the Albatross (or Soma Oxford) are perfect for the Clem  - right rise, sweep, width, and good looking to boot. The Toscos, like I mentioned, are great, but I'd opt for the 55cm model probably in your rider's case. Re: the Boscos, I'm a bit taller than your rider, so maybe Boscos would do the trick in their case. Lastly, if they don't want a relaxed position, you've got a billion options of flat or riser bars with minimal sweep, but I won't bother with recs. cheers,John (outside Fontainebleau)On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 6:36:58 AM UTC+2 Kim H. wrote:@Igor -I have a couple of Terry women's saddles that are lightly used to sell, if you are interested for your lady friend.https://www.terrybicycles.com/Cite-X-Gel-Italiahttps://www.terrybicycles.com/Liberator-XContact me off this group for more details and pictures.Kim Hetzel. On Thursday, April 4, 2024 at 7:52:34 PM UTC-7 Richard Rose wrote:A lot of nice bars to choose from. That said, the Bosco is perfect. The extra rise is great as it results in less stem exposed than with the Tosco. I suggest one of the three FacePlater stems makes life so much easier & the older tig welded one is currently on sale, I think. But, without the frame & handlebar at hand it’s guesswork at best regarding stem length. I am 5’10”, ride a 52 Clem with Bosco & 135 FacePlater. I do not know how much shorter the reach is on the 45, but I would guess a stem closer to 70-80? Call Riv & ask them, they give excellent advice. Or, try to get you

Re: [RBW] Building up a 45cm Clem for a 5'2 rider

2024-04-04 Thread Richard Rose
A lot of nice bars to choose from. That said, the Bosco is perfect. The extra rise is great as it results in less stem exposed than with the Tosco. I suggest one of the three FacePlater stems makes life so much easier & the older tig welded one is currently on sale, I think. But, without the frame & handlebar at hand it’s guesswork at best regarding stem length. I am 5’10”, ride a 52 Clem with Bosco & 135 FacePlater. I do not know how much shorter the reach is on the 45, but I would guess a stem closer to 70-80? Call Riv & ask them, they give excellent advice. Or, try to get your hands n a few different (cheap) stems to try?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 4, 2024, at 9:28 PM, Igor  wrote:Any suggestions or ways to "know" what stem or bars to use? Not sure where to begin.



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Re: [RBW] NBD - Purple Appaloosa

2024-04-01 Thread Richard Rose
Love everything about this post!Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 1, 2024, at 3:45 AM, Dan  wrote:Hi everyone, I’d like to share the story of my new purple Appaloosa. I’ve gained a great deal of insight and enjoyment from reading this forum, so it’s only right that I return the favour with a story of my own.From the first time I had heard that there was a company called Rivendell, I knew that someday I’d be riding one. I’d avidly read Tolkein in my childhood, so to hear that there were LotR themed bicycles - and that they were so beautiful! - was just fascinating to me. The more I read about the bikes and the philosophy, the more I was convinced. The final straw was coming across ‘Calling In Sick Magazine’, aka the unofficial Rivendell fan magazine. Reading the stories and looking at the photos of those people riding on dry hills near the ocean, in terrain not to dissimilar to what I ride here in Adelaide, Australia, gave me the impetus to make my dream a reality.So, why did I choose an Appaloosa? To answer that, here is a little bit about the other bikes in my stable…Surly StragglerThis was my first ‘nice’ bike, the first bike I actually did any research on before buying. I bought it to be my only bike and a do-it-all bike, one that would be reliable and fun both day-to-day and on riding anywhere and everywhere when I felt like adventure. In that, it’s met all my expectations and then some. It’s set up with a rack and fenders as a commuter, but over time I’ve tweaked it with wider, flared drops, fatter, more supple rubber and lower gearing to suit my increasing desire to explore. I’ve ridden this bike on two (metric) centuries, countless suburban explorations, in the rain, on gravel, and on single track. It does it all, more or less. I’ve never liked the looks of the stack of spacers I needed to get the bars high, and the gearing is probably a bit high, though that has made me stronger. Descending on the dirt, even with the flared drops, is a whole-body workout. Side note - I actually wanted a Cross Check, but they weren’t available to order in Australia when I bought this bike.Bassi BloomfieldIt took a while to allow myself the thought that it was ok to have more than one bike. I’d been browsing Blue Lug and watching Terry Barentsen during the pandemic and fell in love with the idea of 650b, fat tyres, upright bars and front baskets. The day after I’d decided that I could get myself another bike, my local bike shop listed a whole bunch of Bassi frames for sale. The clearance for wide 650b tyres and the flower head tube graphic sold me instantly!This bike has been a revelation for me. There’s something about it - the wide bars, the light frame, having no gears - that just clicks with me. It’s like the bike is hard-wired into my brain. And the basket! It’s so practical. More than that, though, this bike looks great. It’s a bike that non-bike people complement me on. And it sold me on how good it feels to ride upright.Why Appaloosa?Which brings me to the Appaloosa. In the last two years I’d begun to the explore the range of hills that flank Kaurna country / the Adelaide plains. I like riding from my door, winding through the suburbs to a trail head, then climbing and exploring the trails, going a little further each time. I wanted a bike that would be fun to ride on the road but more comfortable and capable off it than my other bikes. In short, I wanted a touring bike, and the Appaloosa seemed like it. I liked that the 2.2” tyres looked like a balance of speed and comfort, and the long chainstays promised to smooth out bumps and make hair-raising off-road descents more palatable. Spoiler alert: both of these things were true!I’ll spare you the story of sourcing the frame. I’ll only say that I initially hesitated on the purple colour, which in hindsight was absolutely ridiculous. Purple is my favourite colour and THIS purple is amazing. It’s perfect.First ImpressionsI picked up the Appaloosa on Thursday after my bike shop kindly managed to get it ready before the Easter long weekend. Since then, I’ve taken the bike on a couple of long rides and a handful of short ones. The long rides include a 50km-or-so out and back along the linear trail of Adelaide’s main river, and one of my regular, rocky, single-track heavy foothills climbing loops.The comfort of the riding position on this bike is incredible. My chest feels so open, and I can look around freely. I’m almost too carefree and sometimes need to remind myself to look at where I’m going! Despite this, pedalling isn’t a chore either. When climbing, the combination of long wheelbase and low gearing (24 x 36 low gear) makes it feel like there’s a motor behind me, pushing my up climbs without losing traction. Descending is impressively stable, both on road and off. It’s almost a joke how much more calm and in control I was riding down a steep, dirt hill face this morning. On my Straggler I was physically exhausted from the short descent from the effort it took to 

Re: [RBW] Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

2024-03-31 Thread Richard Rose
Oh man, I don’t know where to start. I will by stating that as a cyclist for nearly 50 years I was aware of Rivendell since their inception. But I never really entertained owning one until the long chainstay bikes. Why? Because Rivendell’s looked like road bikes & to me the best road bikes came with the name of the maker on the downtube. My fascination with Rivendell coincided with no longer being obsessed with going fast & putting a higher priority on being comfortable & “chill”.I don’t know how it can be argued that the long chainstay bikes with their large volume tires offer a smoother riding experience. And that superior ride definitely applies to “rail trails” and every other riding surface I am aware of. So I do not know that they “solve a problem” but rather challenge what a bike can be. First my Clem L gave me a riding experience I was unfamiliar with & became a bicycle that I could not, not ride. Then a Gus changed everything I thought I knew about mountain bikes. I am just one person & different strokes for different folks. But my experience with long chainstay bikes has been transformative. It’s the only reason I am interested in a Roaduno.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 31, 2024, at 1:50 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:Enjoyed reading the thread "Anyone else not a fan of long chainstays?", especially Bill L's explanation of the RBW bike design philosophy.   Seems the prevailing thought is long stays are better forupright ridingsingle track type trails (vs a Rails to Trails type trail)I'll just note 2 'facts'1  The vast majority of RBW models (except the Roadeo type frame) use slack STA and HTA which may contribute to the ride effect when coupled with long stays.2.  In the beginning RBW addressed getting the bars higher and adopting a non-racer riding style (back at 45° with hands on hoods), which IMHO were solutions to actual problems.So What problem or current deficiency in bike design is Grant solving by using long chain staysJust to bring bikes to market that no one else is building??Or do they solve a real problem???John HawrylakWoodstown NJFWIW 2 of 3 of my frames have 44 to 45cm chain stays, and 1 has a 43cm chain stay.    It's hard to notice a ride difference.



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Re: [RBW] Silver shifters, v1 vs. v2

2024-03-29 Thread Richard Rose
First, I did not realize the v1 units looked different. I don’t think I’ve seen them. My experience then is limited to the v2’s and it has been very positive on two bikes. I’ve not yet resorted to loctite & slippage has been minimal. My riding is pretty chill pace wise but my mileage is significant. Occasionally I do notice a slip & a very small turn will fix the problem. I’ve been reluctant to use the loctite thinking it might make these small in-ride adjustments more difficult? I’ve used all sorts of shifting solutions including AXS. I actually prefer my Silver v2 experience over all others I have used even though it’s more “work”.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 29, 2024, at 6:56 PM, ian m  wrote:I love the look of the Silver1 shifters. IMO they are the platonic ideal whether on downtube or bar-end. Yet I find in my experience the performance refuses to meet the aesthetic quality. Try as I may I can't get the shifter to stay put. Loctite or beeswax, slippage, then over-tightening. There's still no better option than the plastic washer? Hoped the brass bit over the plastic would protect it, no such luck they always crack. I'm tired of trying to make these work. Do the newer Silver2 shifters improve in performance where they've... let's just say changed in aesthetics? It reads as though they have the same internals which I would assume is the issue. While they do have a look that maybe only a mother could love I'm willing to give them a shot if it's a noticeable difference.I am index curious but not sure I'd want to pay the Dura-Ace bar-end price rather than making the all-out switch to brifters. Any thoughts or advice welcome.



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Re: [RBW] FS: Sam Hillborne 56cm 2TT

2024-03-29 Thread Richard Rose
Lovely! Price?Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 29, 2024, at 1:09 PM, Abe Gardner  wrote:Sentimental history at the end, let’s start with the details as built (and I have drop bars, an XT Rapid Rise RD, and other parts I could swap in for slight price changes):Sam Hillborne 56cm double top tubeWheels by Rich Lesnik Hands on Wheels: -Velocity Atlas rims (matte silver),-Silver Deore hubs, -Double butted spokes,-Soma Shikoro 700x38 tires, tan sidewall (very few miles, one has a small nick that doesn’t affect function)Handlebar: Nitto Albastache Bar (RM017 w/some tape residue - I’ll wrap/shellack them for you if you want but figure you may want to adjust first).Stem: Nitto 7cm if my memory is right, I’ll measure again. Brake levers: Tiagra BL-R400 SilverFront brake: Paul Components Racer brake silver (I could swap a black one from my Cheviot if you prefer), silver Moon Unit, Purple Funky Monkey cable hanger, Koolstop cartridge pads (silver)Black skewers, probably shimano.Rear brake: Tektro R559 Extra Long Reach silver (rust on the spring) w/Koolstop cartridge pads (silver)Seatpost: Nitto S65 (standard scuffing)Pedals: VP-Vice Blue VP-015-BL Crankset: Clipper triple with 46 / 36 / 26 (I’ll double check that) w/minimal wear on ringsChain: lighter weight KMC 9 or 10 speed, minimal wear (has two quick links because long chain stays)Front and Rear Derailers: Deore LX (probably made for 8 speed, work great with friction shifting this 9 speed cassette FD-M568 RD-M568).Front shifter: Microshift friction or 3 speed index.Rear shifter: Rivendell Silver shifter and “O” Silver friction leverCassette: Shimano HG 11-36t, low miles. (Might be 12-36)Plencher single leg kickstandJagwire cables and housing in dark grayFSA headset Riv always seems to use. Want drop bars? I have Soma Portola bars (think flared Nitto Noodles) in 46cm at hoods, 52cm between bar ends. Silver Tektro TRP RRL SR Drillum brake levers with tan gum hoods. We can sort a price. Here are those bars/levers with different tape and black covers, now tan covers and black/rainbow tape:I’ll throw in a set of SKS fenders if you want them, well used but work great. Hardware included. Seat not included, but I have a Brooks C15 ‘tester’ somewhere if you want, add $45?There is a little scuffing to the paint along the middle of the top tube where there was shellacked twine to protect against bar strikes. Random nicks and scratches, some filled with close but not perfect Testers paint. Always hard to say goodbye to a Riv, but this Sam is a special one - took me on my first Century and all over Napa and Sonoma counties, twice around Lake Tahoe. Purchased as used from Riv in 2019, though they asked not to be bothered about its history. It’s got standard beusage for being several years old and ridden plenty, but it’s still beautiful in my book. There are a few spots of shellack that ought to come out with denatured alcohol and elbow grease.  Here’s the relevant old geometry chart with the 56cm stats:https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gfiN1kOxVrthdc6eScUF9fP5n-BvRBILbBMYiEg5LM4/edit#gid=083.4cm stand overHere a photo of how it was setup when I got it, quite a few changes since then: Good for PBH 84 thru 89 by my estimate (I’m 84cm PBH and it’s a good fit).Located in Napa but I make my way to SF and Berkeley every couple weekends so could deliver there. 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

2024-03-20 Thread Richard Rose
My only rapid rise - a beautiful Nexave courtesy of JJ - has made me a big fan. In particular, I am quite happy with my non rapid rise Deore unit on my Clem which gets lots of flatlander miles. But my Gus gets the singletrack hills. This is where the Nexave has one huge benefit. It takes zero effort to shift to an easier gear when I need it most. Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 20, 2024, at 1:14 PM, J J  wrote:I'm 100 percent with Jock on this issue. It's hard to take the Disraeli Gears comments about the XT RD-M760 seriously, dripping as they are with dismissiveness. We've had long threads on this forum about low normal derailleurs before, and I still find the myths that circulate about Rapid Rise perplexing. For example, the myths that Rapid Rise performs "worse" than high normal, or it's harder to set up or index, or that (per the Disraeli Gears comments) it's somehow more prone to rust than other derailleurs in the same general series, like the XT M750,  built with the same material.The reason I favor RR comes down to a shifting logic that works better for my brain and motor coordination than high normal. I shift in friction mode on all my bikes, which all have low normal rear ders. I like that I can move both levers in the same direction to get to higher/harder or lower/easier gears instead of moving oppositely. That's about it. I do think there are a few other benefits of RR: if my shift cable broke, the RR spring will push the derailleur to the easiest gear instead of the hardest, thus avoiding a potential high-gear slog home. But how often do cables break? RR also seems to shift more easily to lower/easier gears under load. But maybe this is a misattribution. Maybe I've simply gotten better about timing my shifts and floating the pedals. It does not mean that I have trouble with high normal shifting! To the contrary, high normal is just fine. Low normal is just a preference. What works great for Rapid Rise adherents won't necessarily work great for anyone else. Once you try RR, the possible outcomes will be that you like it, you hate it, or that you're more or less neutral about it. (You will also realize that one way or another, it is not earth shattering or life changing, nor will it make you a more skilled and faster rider). Any shifts I have missed or bungled are totally attributable to user error, to my timing or judgement, and not anything inherent to a high normal vs. low normal modality.Finally, all Rapid Rise rear ders I have tried, from the humble end to the fancy XTRs, work beautifully. The differences between them are refinement level, materials, weight, looks, aesthetics, and so on, just like every other Shimano product categories that are stratified by price point.On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 10:38:41 PM UTC-4 John Dewey wrote:@ http://disraeligears.co.uk/…well I suppose if you pedal around in a saltwater bath, like some of those unfortunate souls…that might happen. For those us who ride under sunny skies now and again—and take care of stuff properly—I can tell you that after years and years of working those mechs, never a mixed-up shift that wasn’t my doing and not even a microscopic spot of corrosion to be found anywhere. Total hooey I say. And I’ve got the goods to prove it 浪JockOn Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:15 PM Chintan Jadwani  wrote:Another question - from a couple of reviews here people seem indifference of the performance between low vs high normal. But online elsewhwre, there seems to be strong dislike for low normal - why is that? For example - disraeligears.co.uk writes for the xt m760"The Shimano Deore XT (M760) is my absolutely least favourite Deore XT variant. It has cheap (rust prone) detailing, unnecessary styling and, worst of all, it’s low normal. not your obvious choice for slogging your way through the mud and grime of a British winter. Bring back stainless steel small parts, polished finishes and top normal operating logic."On Wed, 20 Mar, 2024, 5:07 am John Dewey,  wrote:And the Rivendell ‘fan base’ is a subset of another and another so as to be mostly inconsequential. We do count, however and a few brave souls do sort-of OK serving us. Nevertheless, most of us (even here in RBW’s backyard) seldom cross paths with cyclists with whom we have anything in common other than two wheels. We’re already a bit abnormal and ‘low-normal’ makes us even more so. Jock (and his fleet of abnormal low-normals)On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 9:41 AM Johnny Alien  wrote:I have to think that most of the market for these is from the Rivendell fan base. I don't hear any other bike group talking about them at all. Because of that I kind of think IF Riv ends up bringing their new one to market the used scene will come WAY down. Just a theory. I really hope that I can test the theory (because they successfully release it)On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 12:14:10 PM UTC-4 chintan...@gmail.com wrote:Thank you all for the replies :) Now that I 

Re: [RBW] Ride Report--'24 Diablo Summit #3 and first big ride on RoadeoRosa

2024-03-16 Thread Richard Rose
Thanks for the Clarification. Glad it feels great.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 16, 2024, at 8:12 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:The Roadeo is "built to order" but it has a stock geometry and tubing.  It is not a custom.  When one buys a Rivendell Custom, they are paying for Grant to design a unique bike for them.  That's very different than most other "custom" bikes, where the buyer can specify everything.  A custom Rivendell is still specified completely by Grant.  I wanted and paid for a 59cm Roadeo.  I had a few of my own little twists: a Legolas fork crown, cantilever posts, etc, but it is a Roadeo.  Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Saturday, March 16, 2024 at 4:40:41 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Cool bike, great story - congrats. Question; the Roadeo is a custom bicycle frame, correct? As such, would it not be designed specifically for the rider - in this case you? If this is correct, why would it or any Roadeo be overbuilt? Unless of course you asked for it to be.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 16, 2024, at 6:20 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:This morning I rode out my front door in El Cerrito to the Summit of Mount Diablo.  It was my first big ride on my new pink Roadeo, having tackled the travails of Rene Herse Cantilevers and having just set up a new pair of tubeless Rene Herse Orondo Grade tires.  It was in the high 40s when I left, just before sunrise.  As soon as the sun came out it warmed up quite a bit and was a beautiful breezy Spring Day.  The bike was perfect, the tires were splendid.  Despite the planing devotees telling me the Roadeo is over-stiff I respectfully disagree.  I posted my second best time on Strava, which I'm pleased with, all things considered.  I got after it pretty good.  I think when I posted my best time I was 10lbs lighter, during my coaching days.  After the descent I headed to Walnut Creek BART, but of course paid a short social visit at Riv HQ.  Grant was there, and he grabbed my bike and went and rode it around.  The big surprise was Manny was there.  I got to meet his delightful young daughter.  Grant reported that my bike rides great, and approved of my build.  We chatted for a little while, and off I went.  70miles, 5300ft.  Multiple compliments received on my pink bike and matching pink socks.  Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA



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Re: [RBW] Ride Report--'24 Diablo Summit #3 and first big ride on RoadeoRosa

2024-03-16 Thread Richard Rose
Cool bike, great story - congrats. Question; the Roadeo is a custom bicycle frame, correct? As such, would it not be designed specifically for the rider - in this case you? If this is correct, why would it or any Roadeo be overbuilt? Unless of course you asked for it to be.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 16, 2024, at 6:20 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:This morning I rode out my front door in El Cerrito to the Summit of Mount Diablo.  It was my first big ride on my new pink Roadeo, having tackled the travails of Rene Herse Cantilevers and having just set up a new pair of tubeless Rene Herse Orondo Grade tires.  It was in the high 40s when I left, just before sunrise.  As soon as the sun came out it warmed up quite a bit and was a beautiful breezy Spring Day.  The bike was perfect, the tires were splendid.  Despite the planing devotees telling me the Roadeo is over-stiff I respectfully disagree.  I posted my second best time on Strava, which I'm pleased with, all things considered.  I got after it pretty good.  I think when I posted my best time I was 10lbs lighter, during my coaching days.  After the descent I headed to Walnut Creek BART, but of course paid a short social visit at Riv HQ.  Grant was there, and he grabbed my bike and went and rode it around.  The big surprise was Manny was there.  I got to meet his delightful young daughter.  Grant reported that my bike rides great, and approved of my build.  We chatted for a little while, and off I went.  70miles, 5300ft.  Multiple compliments received on my pink bike and matching pink socks.  Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini Build - Mix of Modern and Retro

2024-03-16 Thread Richard Rose
Patrick, I humbly suggest that the Clem (and apparently Roadini) “liveliness & smoothness” you reference & that I can attest to is due to geometry rather than the tubing spec. As I am typing this I am recalling that Richard Sachs for a long time not only refused to use tubing stickers but did not even like to talk about tubing selections. When asked which tubes he used his frequent response was “the right ones”. This of course was prior to the “Pego Richie” tubing era. I distinctly remember my Clem L test ride, several years after selling my Sachs. In spite of the radically different position of the Clem my very first thought was “I’ve got my Sachs back”.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 15, 2024, at 9:42 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:Nice Roadini, lovely build, and I'm glad it has turned out so well for you. The Roadini certainly gets high praise from high-mileage riders.Roadini:Fargo:Cross Check: interesting observations. One might thing that with fat, low pressure tires the frame and fork won't materially affect ride smoothness, but I had a somewhat similar experience when I replaced my (2010??) steel Fargo with the current 2016 Matthews "road bike for dirt." Both take 60s with fenders, both had the same ultra-extra-light-and-supple 450-gram 60 mm Big Ones on the same Velocity Blunt SS rims, but I immediately noticed that with these wheels, the Matthews smoothed out stutter bumps and felt definitely smoother than the same wheels/tires on the Fargo. The Fargo is overbuilt of course, and the fork is hugely overbuilt, while the Matthews is built of OS but thinwall tubing with a fork that has slender, nicely "French curve" legs (discs; nope, no problems). Meandering on re: Fargo: I had a second wheelset with ~33 mm Kojaks; the Fargo handled -- well, not like a Rivendell, but decently; the 1.35 Kojaks made it quicker in turns but didn't harm stability, at least, I didn't notice it. But really, the Big Ones rolled much better on pavement than the Kojaks, decent tho' the Kojaks are.Back to the Roadini: I've been told by several people, talking about the Roadeo, when I was thinking of getting one, that it had tubing too stout and stiff for good road bike feel. And doesn't the Roadini have stouter tubing yet? So to hear such praise for the Roadini tells me, I think, that the difference between stout, stiff tubing and thinwall, normal diameter tubing is by no means the main factor in smoothness and "liveliness." Again and again, experienced riders praise the low-budget Clem for its liveliness and smoothness. And yet, that 2003 Rivendell Curt custom Road was too stiff, compared to the thinner wall, normal gauge Matthews clone that replaced it -- my quads proved it. Upshot: I don't understand all this.Long ago on the thread, Jay  wrote:The Ride: like wow!  So much to say, I'm going to forget a whole bunch of things I thought of during the 2hr ride.  I'll compare to the Surly Cross Chek I had over a year ago and my Salsa Fargo (replaced the CC, and I love it for unpaved).  Carrying the bike upstairs for the first ride, was much lighter than I thought (I have zero complaints with the weight).  Minor fit issues aside (soon to be resolved, hopefully), the ride was so smooth, maybe the smoothest bike I've ever had.   I had these tires on the Fargo up to now, and over the same surfaces the Roadini really smoothed out the cracks in the pavement, as well as the trails (I felt like I had a little suspension).  One of the reasons I initially looked at this bike as an option for a 3rd bike was that the Fargo with 43mm for winter and anytime the road bike wouldn't cut it, was not very enjoyable (harsh, squirly streeing, sluggish).  With 2.2's it is amazing and I love it on the trails where I live, but as an all-road / distance bike, I didn't enjoy it.  Enter the Roadini.  When I stood up to sprint or climb up a hill, it accelerated way better than the Fargo, and a bit better from the CC from what I recall.  I was, again, pleasantly surprised with how fast I was moving.  Cornering was predictable and neither sluggish or squirly, it just went where I wanted to go with minimal input...while holding its line predictably.  The DT shifters were fun.  A couple of times I tried to shift with the brake lever and remembered that's a different bike!  Shifting was very light touch and I quickly realized this, as I would easily shift two gears when not wanting to...by the end of the ride I felt 75% comfortable using them (and this will only improve).  Brake levers felt very good, and the braking power was also very good.  I have Ultergra R8000 brakes on my road bike and they are amazing (power and modulation).  These are a notch below, but very effective...and they easily clear 43mm tires so who needs discs?!  I love my discs on the Fargo, in mud/dirt, but the Roadini does not need discs at all (where I live/ride).  I'm so happy to have a rim brake bike that fits 43mm tires.  The bars (Whiskey 12F) and 3mm bar tape with gel 

Re: [RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho... stem question

2024-03-11 Thread Richard Rose
For what it is worth Ron used 25.4 clamp size stems and claims & claims they work great. Got to spread that clamp I guess.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 11, 2024, at 12:09 PM, El Sapo  wrote:Wish I would have understood the issues with the 26 mm handlebar clamp prior to purchasing the Ortho Bar. No megusta.The pics posted by iamKeith don’t show that his hair, beard, and hip vibe are much greater riding the bike with ortho bars.On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 7:50:27 AM UTC-7 Chris K wrote:Thank you all for the pics and advice! Very helpful.I'm putting these bars on a 1985 Trek 870. As Riv says on their cardboard geo charts "don't obsess", but geometrically this old frame is not terribly far off some Riv models, setting aside, of course, bb drop and stack (1985 Trek 870: 21.8" frame, 71º hta, 71.5º sta, 58.0 tt, 48.5 cs, 5.0 drop, 52.7 stack, 40.6 reach).My current set-up is Choco bars and an 8cm Dirt Drop. The height feels fine, just slightly above saddle height, and the reach isn't bad either but could be ~1" longer. I'm fairly upright but can lean in and grip forward as needed. I just like the idea of more width and more flare.Are these details helpful? I'm maybe leaning toward the 135mm Faceplater based on your replies, but that does seem long!On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 5:48:02 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:I’ve got these bars lined up for my Appaloosa build. My local bike shop had a NOS Velo Orange Grand Cru stem in 120mm that looks pretty perfect. It’s 26.0, and having no rise should be slightly longer in reality than its length number suggests. I’m hoping that the wider clamp section will help it to grip the bars well too, despite the single bolt. On Monday 11 March 2024 at 03:33:24 UTC+10:30 Chris K wrote:Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem advice from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame factors that play into something like this, but curious what people are generally going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:- Faceplater 110mm- Faceplater 135mm- Tallux 12cmWill the 110 Faceplater be too short?



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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-11 Thread Richard Rose
Will you be selling the Clem complete or stealing some of the components for the Gus. I am pretty sure you will not regret this decision.:) If it helps; my 52 Clem has 580 wide Bosco’s with a 135mm FacePlater. I built the 57 Gus with the same Bosco but a 90mm Nitto V-5 stem. That put both handlebars in pretty much the exact same position relative to my saddle @ 72-73cm height. I have since changed the cockpit on the Gus to a Hope Cyclery “Albacore” bar paired with a 35mm Paul Boxcar. This has proved to be a better singletrack setup for me while remaining just as comfortable. I love both bikes.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 11, 2024, at 4:19 PM, NYCbikeguy  wrote:Thanks, everyone!I feel like my decision to upgrade is cemented from the mere facts that the Gus is fillet brazed (ie. stronger frame), has less tail wobble (I've noticed this on the clem, but didn't think much of it in the past), and the unique feature that this is one of the very few Riv frames that are 1 1/8 threadless. in 2019, I went 5 day tour on a Miyata 1000 to Japan, fully loaded, and have experienced the torquing of the handlebars in common nitto quill stems, as well as the torquing of the quill in the headtube. I can totally see this issue being eliminated with a threadless 1 1/8 system. I guess one of my lingering concerns is the overall length of the bike, since I'm going from a 52 clem (650b) to a 57 gus (700c). I've already had a hard time bringing the clem up the elevator to my workplace... the Gus may not even make it in there, and i'd have to resort to using the service elevator each and every time. Anyway, that's a minor concern compared to the points everyone mentioned, so that's the least of my worries. With that said, I guess my 52 Clem L in RBW blue will be going up for sale in a few weeks!I'm in the NYC tristate area. I don't plan on shipping because this is an abnormally long frame to ship.Looking forward to hearing from you all.Also, Thanks for all the help and wisdom!Best,IYOn Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 11:30:54 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:Bill brings up a detail I skipped over in my answer: keeping both. My Sparkle Blue Used-To-Be-Leah's Clem L is a perfect shopper/cruiser I plan to hit the trails with when this rain stops. I'd love to find a Gus for the trails but I'm not giving up my Clem! Joe Bernard On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:06:27 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:I say go for it!  They are very different bikes, so as usual, I could justify keeping both.  If I had both and was asked to get rid of one and retain the other, I could easily see myself keeping the Gus.  I think the Gus would do a better job impersonating the Clem than the Clem would do impersonating Gus.  Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-8 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY



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Re: [RBW] Ron's Ortho... stem question

2024-03-10 Thread Richard Rose
Chris, are you changing handlebar on an existing bike or, is this a new build? If the former & when I did a bar swap on my Gus, I was able to determine stem length with a couple of measurements. I always prefer a 4 bolt stem but as I understand it the ortho bar has an unusual clamp size?Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 10, 2024, at 1:13 PM, Brian Turner  wrote:Without having the most important factors (frame, size, and what you’re currently running), I’d say going with a faceplater type stem would be a good idea because these are very wide bars, and it’s good to have a stem that will clamp down on them more securely than a single bolt quill stem.I currently have Ortho bars on my 54cm Gus, and I’m using a 110mm Nitto threadless stem with 4 bolts on the faceplate.-BrianLexington KY On Mar 10, 2024, at 1:03 PM, Chris K  wrote:Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem advice from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame factors that play into something like this, but curious what people are generally going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:- Faceplater 110mm- Faceplater 135mm- Tallux 12cmWill the 110 Faceplater be too short?



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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-10 Thread Richard Rose
Bill’s is an interesting take & I think I agree owning both. If I had to get rid of my Clem I could get a second set of wheels for the Gus for more roadish rides. But, my Gus handlebar/stem combo is more geared to trail use & that would not be as good as my Clem setup. Here is the big caveat though; Gus is not a true step through bike. That single characteristic cannot be duplicated & is easily my favorite feature of the Clem. This may not be important to others.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 10, 2024, at 11:06 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:I say go for it!  They are very different bikes, so as usual, I could justify keeping both.  If I had both and was asked to get rid of one and retain the other, I could easily see myself keeping the Gus.  I think the Gus would do a better job impersonating the Clem than the Clem would do impersonating Gus.  Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-8 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY



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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-10 Thread Richard Rose
Thanks Brian for putting my thoughts on paper - every single one of them. The 
irony is I was I really after a Susie. I was in love with the gold ones & @ 170 
lbs. was mildly attracted to the lighter weight. But they were all sold out. 
When this mermaid Gus became available I jumped. Now I love the color, the 
indestructible feeling & that front end stiffness & security.
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 10, 2024, at 10:20 AM, Brian Turner  wrote:
> 
> I’ve never ridden a Clem, but the factors that attracted me to my Gus were:
> - 1-1/8” threadless headset: proper stiffness for off-road riding, and the 
> ability to easily swap stems and bars. Plus, I like big chunky threadless 
> stems and how securely they grip the bars. I don’t want to deal with bars 
> slipping every time I torque on the bars or hit a bump on a descent.
> - Ability to run 2.5” - 2.6” tires (because I’m running Motolites I can only 
> clear 2.5”)
> - bottom bracket clearance
> - beefier tube set
> - the weight limit thing (I’m not a heavy rider, but wanted to carry decent 
> loads for bikepacking over rough terrain without worrying if I’m pushing the 
> weight limits
> - the fillet brazed frame is gorgeous
> 
> I’m not an aggressive trail rider, and I don’t typically ride anything overly 
> technical or twisty, so for the type I trail riding I do, I find the Gus to 
> be plenty capable and extremely confident and comfortable. It’s also awfully 
> nice to ride around town too. My favorite tires that handle all the terrain I 
> ride on my Gus (paved and unpaved) are Teravail Ehlines.
> 
> Brian
> Lexington KY
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-09 Thread Richard Rose
Yes, my Clem does the same. I’ve tried a few loaded setups and balanced front / rear seems best. There is wheel flop aplenty if I load up the front. But, it really does not bother me. Gus is less sensitive to loading for sure.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 4:42 PM, Hoch in ut  wrote:One thing I noticed on my Clem was with a heavy load on the rear, the tail wagged a little much for me. Due to the low step through design. I’d imagine with the Gus’ top tube being higher, the frame most likely wouldn’t flex as much. I noticed your rear rack on your Clem and thought I’d point that out. On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 2:17:07 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I said that wrong. What I meant to say is that Susie & Gus ride the same or at least very similarly. Riv claims they ride the same. I rode a Susie briefly - it felt the same as my Gus.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 3:09 PM, Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:When I measured mine (a while ago) the bottom bracket on my 57(large) Gus was a full 2”! higher than on my 52 Clem. This single dimension makes these bikes quite different in my opinion. I love both bikes but use Gus for trail/MTB duties almost exclusively. The Clem is my bike for pretty much everything else. Having both I simply could not choose one to keep. Sophie’s Choice. I thought but cannot claim I know that Gus & Susie are more or less the same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 1:39 PM, Johnny Alien <johnny@gmail.com> wrote:A Susie would be a pretty lateral move from a Clem (by description and such) where as a Gus would be more stout. If the Clem covers the type of riding you like than the main difference would be style/visuals IMO. Which is 100% as good a reason as any other to swap frames. I love my Clem and am often tempted by the beauty of the Susie/Gus.On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 12:34:49 PM UTC-5 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY



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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-09 Thread Richard Rose
I said that wrong. What I meant to say is that Susie & Gus ride the same or at least very similarly. Riv claims they ride the same. I rode a Susie briefly - it felt the same as my Gus.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 3:09 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:When I measured mine (a while ago) the bottom bracket on my 57(large) Gus was a full 2”! higher than on my 52 Clem. This single dimension makes these bikes quite different in my opinion. I love both bikes but use Gus for trail/MTB duties almost exclusively. The Clem is my bike for pretty much everything else. Having both I simply could not choose one to keep. Sophie’s Choice. I thought but cannot claim I know that Gus & Susie are more or less the same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 1:39 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:A Susie would be a pretty lateral move from a Clem (by description and such) where as a Gus would be more stout. If the Clem covers the type of riding you like than the main difference would be style/visuals IMO. Which is 100% as good a reason as any other to swap frames. I love my Clem and am often tempted by the beauty of the Susie/Gus.On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 12:34:49 PM UTC-5 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY



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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-09 Thread Richard Rose
When I measured mine (a while ago) the bottom bracket on my 57(large) Gus was a full 2”! higher than on my 52 Clem. This single dimension makes these bikes quite different in my opinion. I love both bikes but use Gus for trail/MTB duties almost exclusively. The Clem is my bike for pretty much everything else. Having both I simply could not choose one to keep. Sophie’s Choice. I thought but cannot claim I know that Gus & Susie are more or less the same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 1:39 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:A Susie would be a pretty lateral move from a Clem (by description and such) where as a Gus would be more stout. If the Clem covers the type of riding you like than the main difference would be style/visuals IMO. Which is 100% as good a reason as any other to swap frames. I love my Clem and am often tempted by the beauty of the Susie/Gus.On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 12:34:49 PM UTC-5 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY



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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

2024-03-08 Thread Richard Rose
Well, the larger volume tires are definitely part of the ride quality equation. If they are “bouncy” the pressure is too high.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 8, 2024, at 8:50 AM, Chris Halasz  wrote:I'll chime in that while the very long (54cm?) chainstays on some of the frames introduce some storage concerns, they (the Platypus, for instance) ride very, very nicely. That said, I dislike the common (what, 41cm?) short chainstays far more than I dislike the extended variety. My chainstay sweet spot compromise may be more like 46cm, but I find myself drawn to even longer. What I haven't yet come to appreciate are large tires for road use, say, anything over 35mm. The longer chainstay bikes, to me, start to look nervous with narrower tires. I really like the looks of the Clem H, though. Maybe there's more learning for me to appreciate the wider, heavier, bouncier tread. But that's another topic. - Chris On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 8:30:45 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:Ian thinks "there's a heaping good portion of "I got mine" in your perspective."  You are allowed to think whatever you like about me and my motives.  Are you in the market for a new (to you) bike now?  What is your build concept?Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 4:02:18 PM UTC-8 ian m wrote:On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 12:26:11 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:All those wanting Rivendell to re-release bikes they made 10 years ago do NOT have to turn in their Riv card, but they ARE outing themselves as PAWNS of the T IC.  Resist the pressures of the Time and Date Industrial Complex!  BL I feel like I understand where you're coming from in this thread and largely I don't disagree with much of what you're saying but I think there's a heaping good portion of "I got mine" in your perspective. Yes, I do have whatever the reverse of FOMO is when it comes to Riv bikes (Sad I Missed Out, SIMO?). I learned about Riv circa the late aughts while working at Amoeba in Berkeley and riding my POS fixed gear bike (with Wald 808 bars and front basket) everywhere. Dreamt of virtually every model at the time, all of which were firmly out of reach with a record store employee paycheck. Had I been able to afford a couple twos threes of their bikes at the time I'd probably be hang up free about their current designs. But I think we all want what we can't have, and (for a terrible comparison) I lament plenty of other unfortunate changes like the reality of modern pickup trucks as opposed to my first two, the Datsun 720 and Toyota 22RE. Change may be constant but it's not always beneficial



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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

2024-03-07 Thread Richard Rose
If I stay seated & spin (long stays) I do not spin out on steep / slightly rocky climbs. Stand up & you are done. I never stand.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 7, 2024, at 6:12 PM, Hoch in ut  wrote:Keith, I’m assuming you’re in the western Wyoming area? I actually bought a Jabberwocky back in 2010 or so. To test out the Wet Cat geo. Bike rode nice but it wasn’t for me. Ironically, I thought it excelled on the descents. Climbing, due to the long chainstays, did not fare so well. Note that the Jabberwocky was SS only (unless you got the geared hanger from them). Standing and climbing steep trails meant constant spin out. I think had I built a Bandersbatch, it would’ve performed better. I’m trying to remember the chainstay length. Wasn’t it close to 18”? On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 3:49:11 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:I'm beating a dead horse here, drifting off-topic, and not really even answering questions that anyone has asked - but adding this excerpt for thread posterity in case I want to find it again.  I referred to Vassago's ill-fated attempt to popularize long chainstays in my first post, but this is a better web archive reference and the one I was thinking of.  It would have had a picture of a hill climb competition motorcycle, and includes their explanation, at the bottom, of why  THEY chose to do it - which was prioritizing climbing.  That's why it has always stuck with me.  I'm not far from Hoch and Utah and that kind of rockier trail riding, but Vassago's explanation really jives with my own reality.  EVERY SINGLE RIDE here, in the mountains of wyoming (where we live at the bottom of the valleys and go UP only to recreate), begins with a long, steep climb in thin mountain air that accounts for 3/4 or more of the total ride duration.https://web.archive.org/web/20100724060927/http://www.vassagocycles.com/wetcat-geometry/THE ORIGINAL Vassago WetCat GeometryThe controversial 29er geometry approach that we were scorned for back in '05 seams to be more and more common as we enter 2010. We are OK with that because it means big wheels have come into their own, and the bigger companies are catching on. We stand by our WetCat design and haven't changed a thing. Here's the pitch from "back in the day".When refining our exclusive WetCat Geometry, We peed in the eye of tradition and ignored the number-obsessed skeptics.Our long wheelbases, steep seat tubes and slack head tubes made us true blasphemers in the frame design world. As the critics baulked, we honed our angles and tube diameters, to fully utilized the big wheels we are so faithful to.Now, with so many podium finishes under our belt, and a legion of happy Vassago riders, we confidently say;29ers should NOT try to handle like a 26" bike..They're 29ers.29 inch wheels are the Cat's Pajamas.Long chainstays are the Bee's Knees.It's all about the rider's balance in relation to the wheels, not just numbers on paper.Slack doesn't have to mean slow.1996 Norba geometry theory dose not apply to 29ersThe Easter Bunny and Santy Claus are the same guy.So what can WetCat do for you?ClimbingClimb the nastiest technical sections like a wet cat climbs the drapes a grandma's house. (what you never did that?)Traction to spare, and a neutralized rider position will have you cleaning sections you never expected, and have your buddies buyin' you rounds when the pedalin's done.DescendingStability is your best friend when speed is what you're looking for. The centrifugal force of fast spinning big hoops and the long, steel frame offer confidence to rival a full squishy bike at speed.Comfort9 to 5 is just plain wrong. For those of you who's therapy is an nice epic ride on a Sunday morning, we have your prescription. Between the balanced geometry and the unrivaled ridability of steel, a vassago will keep you cumfy in the saddle as long as your legs can keep pushing.BalanceWhere it all comes together. Our unique frame geometries all work together to provide a perfectly balanced 29er that feels like no other 29er you've ridden.Forget the many tallish, slow handling 29ers that are becoming all to common. We center the riders weight between the wheel centers for a distinctive feel of riding IN the bike, not ON TOP of big tall wheels.Test ride a Vassago and then test ride anything else with twice the price tag. You'll see what we mean. A word about chainstays.Generally speaking, we have noticed the media and thus the general opinion is that the shorter the chainstays, the better. Like we have said all along, our dedicated approach to designing 29ers tells us this is bullocks. While short stays are great on a 26" bike and enhance the characteristics of that type of bike, our bikes are built to climb. Since most of your time, blood, sweat and tears involved in a day long epic are spent climbing, we focus on that.The WetCat geometry further enhance the climbing benefits of the 29" wheels by aligning the rider's COG (center of gravity) inside the rear axle line when on a steep accent.To 

Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

2024-03-07 Thread Richard Rose
I think Riv are pretty transparent about their intentions with the Gus/Susie bikes. They came up with “Hillibike” to differentiate from true (modern) mountain bikes. I too had a Jones 29 - not the spaceframe - a Diamond frame with Unicrown fork. Its modern equivalent is a Jones SWB. It was indeed a very fun, capable & versatile bike. For various reasons - some legit, some not - I decided I needed full suspension. I got this Ibis Mojo3, 27.5+ bike. On the trails I frequent, with lots of roots, some rocks, some switchbacks & generally pretty rowdy - but nothing like Utah - I was faster on the Ibis. But, I was not very comfortable. Because I had the Ibis I sold the Jones. I bought my Clem L to take its place as my everything except mountain biking duties. The Clem was transformational comfort wise. And, it is indeed capable & fun on mild trails. It convinced me I needed a Gus. I find the Gus & Clem similar but very different. The higher bottom bracket, stiffer frame & 29’er wheels make it a singletrack delight. Slower & less nimble than the Jones or Ibis? Probably. But I just don’t care. It’s just such a blast & oh so comfortable. The first time I did a serious trail on it (35 miles!) I called Riv to share my enthusiasm. Will answered. I told him they (Riv) could call their bikes anything they wanted to but it (my Gus) is a mountain bike!The transparency part is this; Riv does not endorse the thought that anything you can walk you should be able to ride. As I near 70 years of age, I endorse that notion. If I cannot clear a section on the Gus, I probably should not be doing it anyway!:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 7, 2024, at 9:08 AM, Hoch in ut  wrote:I should have clarified. I have never ridden a Jone LWB. I owned the original Jones 29 spaceframe for a number of years. That was a fun bike. I was referring to the Clem. I understand it’s a “Hillibike,” not a mountain bike, in the modern world term of that word. Still, Riv markets it to be used on “trails.” Which is a fairly loose term. The trails in the Bay Area, which I’ve never ridden, seem to be well-manicured. Mostly smooth dirt single track, from what I’ve seen. We have some of that here in Utah but most, if not all trails require some tight turns, riding through rock gardens, and technical sections. Whooptie doos are common as well. All of these sections proved to be a problem for the Clem. Yes, I could take on more of the ATB mentality and get off and walk those sections. Which I’ve done plenty of times on my modern mountain bike (which is a Vassago! Single speed, rigid fork). But why walk when you can ride? I easily ride through those sections on shorter wheelbase bikes. Not fun. For me. All this to say, it depends where you live which may dictate what type of trails you ride. Smooth dirt roads and MUP’s, it’s a nice bike for that. Not so much for what I’m after. This isn’t a knock against the LWB. I’m glad some companies are looking at the design from different angles. Hopefully they’ll continue to innovate. Having said that, for me, and I’m sure a sizable number of Riv enthusiasts, I wish they’d give us an option of a SWB hillibike. Clem and Wolbis are almost identical. And a lot of overlap with the Atlantis, really. Will said the front ends are pretty much the same. Give us a SWB with 2.4” tire clearance.That would be a fun bike. And look better, too :) On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 12:11:06 AM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:Hoch, when you say you "got hung up," did you mean when riding a Jones LWB, or a Clem or other Rivendell model?  Your post brings up some thoughts.Like Tim, I got an early Clem, thinking it would be an updated, proper-fitting version of an analog 80s or 90s mountain bike - because that's how it was initially concieved and described by Grant.   But I admittedly struggled on trails, just as you describe.  So it kind of morphed into something else, for other kinds of riding.  Then I got rid of it to get a Susie.  It wasn't until then that I realized how much I loved that Clem and NEEDED a bike like that.  I was lucky to get it back.  Different tools  for different tasks.  But along the lines of Bill's comments, Riv likely does not care about the kind of riding or task you're talking about:  Conquering slickrock trails, big "drops,"  riding through scree fields (rock gardens) rather than carrying your bike over them,.  I think Riv makes it pretty clear that tgey don't subscribe to the mainstream sports marketing view that wild places are our playground, so they don't feel the need to produce that particular tool.If you were talking about the LWB, the interesting thing about Jones' bikes was that, originally, he was the first to really figure out how to make a 29er ride like a 26er  (because, in the early days of 29ers, that's what people thought bikes should ride like, but not like we remember.    Every bike on the market prior to time was basically a geometric clone of every other bike.  Jones basically simulated that by cramming the big 

Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

2024-03-07 Thread Richard Rose
You don’t know you “need” it until you’ve lived with it.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 7, 2024, at 1:36 AM, Mike Godwin  wrote:Eric D asked what model Treks.  Good question, as I just walked in on the sout side of the store and exited on the north side. The bikes are lined up in the 2-stack wall-mounted stands. Flat bars, sloping top tube, tall headtube, flat black with large diameter tubes, disc brakes, nothing I am going to do a double take on, for sure. But since the shop is on the other side of town and it is fun to look at the Paramount, and Cinelli, and Colnago in there, might as well take a gander at the long chainstay bikes. I can always ask about the mt bike rentals too. FYI, Foothill Cycles on Foothill in SLO towards the campus side of town. Mike SLO CA. On Wednesday, March 6, 2024 at 10:20:36 AM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:What Treks did you see? Looking at their website, I don't see anything that long, outside their Electra cruisers. Trek has a LOT of models though, so it's easy to overlook something.EricOn Wed, Mar 6, 2024 at 12:50 PM Mike Godwin  wrote:Went to my LBS looking for a bike box, and there is one wall with new long-chain stay-wheelbase Treks ready to ride out the door. I figured someone would copy Riv sooner or later. People have been copying Riv since late in the last century, much like folks are copying RH tires since about 2010. I guess they know a good thing when they ride it.Mike SLO CA On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 4:40:42 PM UTC-8 Garth wrote:People do lament about modern frame/parts design Bill, and they do it @Bikeforums.net in mostly the classic & vintage section :) All vintage makes and models are talked about and bought and sold and very much prized/appreciated. It is by far the most active section of BF. There's a couple of members who regularly post .pdf scans of old cycling publications like Bicycling! magazine of most any bike that was reviewed at the time. Not just bikes of course but all the vintage parts too from how they work to how to tear down and repair them. It's a very diverse community that has the same polarizing topics as any other places, but it's broken down into vary sections to make it easier to post and find posts. Lots of riders who love anything "new" and lots that don't. The demand and use for all kinds of bikes and parts Worlwide is far beyond anyone's means or abilities to count. Andel, likely the largest crank manufacturer in the World, has lots of traditional doubles and triples and they manufacture Riv's cranks for them. As for the megastays, it is what it is. There's a whole lotta frames and makers to choose from. Thankfully there are other people/businesses interested in having steel frames(stock and custom), friction shifters and non-disc hubs made so there's very little if anything I shop @Riv for. On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 1:13:52 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:I promise you that Rivendell is flattered that nice people gather themselves to complain about the former-models that Riv no longer makes.  It shows a love for Rivendell that most other bike brands don't get.  There's no Specialized google group where current Specialized fans are griping about Rockhoppers and Sequoias.  All those nostalgic cyclists have bailed on Specialized entirely.  What Rivendell does, and has always done, is build the bikes they want to exist.  If you like one and want to buy it, great.  If you don't like any of them and buy something else, that's also great.  They (Riv) does not care about making money, except to the extent they can keep the lights on and pay their people a modest living wage.  They do not care about growth.  Actually, they probably have made up their minds that they can't grow.  They know exactly how many bikes they can afford to sell, and they plan out making that many bikes.  That very limited number of bikes is always going to be "whatever they feel like making".  They count on the fact that somebody is going to buy them, and it usually works out for them.  The bikes they feel like making are bikes that don't exist anywhere else and/or have never been made before.  When they made the Saluki circa 2007, bikes like the Saluki didn't exist.  Today, bikes like the Saluki do exist, so Riv doesn't have to make them.  The fact that some Riv-fans are nostalgic for former models is touching, but they don't make nostalgia models. If you want a short wheelbase Rivendell, buy a Crust, ride the heck out of it, and be happy.  That's what Riv would tell you.  The Roaduno is the classic, IMO.  They love the idea of a purpose built 3x1 road bike.  Nobody...not a single person on earth is pounding on their keyboard complaining that it's hard to find a purpose built 3x1 road bike.  There is NO demand for it, but Riv is making it anyway, because they feel like it.  If you buy it, great.  If you don't, they hope you find something else that you do want to buy.  It's perfectly logical for you nostalgic Riv-fans to gripe "they couldve taken that 

Re: [RBW] Re: Building a Quickbeam and wondering...

2024-03-05 Thread Richard Rose
Bill, your description of the landscape near your Michigan office is even more true of northwest Ohio, Toledo more precisely. It’s this geography that has me thinking a Roaduno might be fun, be it 1,2 or 3 speed.Richard - in Toledo where the only “hill” is a stiff headwind.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2024, at 6:27 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:Fair enough.  On the simpler side I have a fixie at my office in Michigan, where the biggest hill is a freeway overpass.  On that bike (Crust Florida Man) I run a Campy square taper road crank with a 39T ring and a chain guard with a 16T fixed cog on a Surly Ultra New rear hub.  There's a 16T freewheel on the other side but I've never used it.  Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 1:06:32 PM UTC-8 David wrote:Very creative. Personally looking for simpler, streamlined inspiration, but these are nice options you're running.On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 12:26:11 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:I run a Riv Silver triple with 40/37/34 chainrings on my Quickbeam.  I modified a rare and unusual Shimano cassette hub to fit 120 OLD.  On that I run three Problem Solvers cassette cogs at 16/19/22.  As a result I have three single speed "gears" with three chain positions, all with the same wheel position34x22 is my climbing gear37x19 is my mellow cruising town gear40x16 is my high gearBill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 12:21:08 PM UTC-8 David wrote:What are your drivetrain specs? Cranks, chainrings, etc.  Simpleones, too, if that's what you're riding. It appears Riv doesn't offer the classic single speed crankset anymore.



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Re: [RBW] Box Size for 59 Clem

2024-03-05 Thread Richard Rose
Sorry, I see you are moving. Must be a complete.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2024, at 8:14 AM, Isaac Martin  wrote:Does anybody happen to have a box that a 59 clem or 60 platypus or similar length bike was shipped in? Would you be so kind to measure it for me?I need to source a box to move and don't want to get too large as I will be paying by volume, and will obviously need one long enough to fit the bike.Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Box Size for 59 Clem

2024-03-05 Thread Richard Rose
Frame set or complete? This is the box my 57 Gus frame/fork came in. I feel certain a 59 would fit - there was ample room.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2024, at 8:14 AM, Isaac Martin  wrote:Does anybody happen to have a box that a 59 clem or 60 platypus or similar length bike was shipped in? Would you be so kind to measure it for me?I need to source a box to move and don't want to get too large as I will be paying by volume, and will obviously need one long enough to fit the bike.Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Re: Hub recommendations for Velocity Cliffhangers

2024-03-05 Thread Richard Rose
Rear Cliffhanger on my Gus is built with this Bitex hub. It’s been very good for the first 2k miles.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 4, 2024, at 1:24 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:I find the Analog review of the Bitex hub to be very accurate. They are very close to the WI hubs at a small fraction of the cost. Amazing at quality and price but with zero hyper around them.On Monday, March 4, 2024 at 11:43:54 AM UTC-5 gril...@gmail.com wrote:My Appaloosa is being built up with a Bitex rear touring hub. Wheels are being built up this week - I'll report back once they (and the bike) are ready!On Sunday 3 March 2024 at 09:56:15 UTC+10:30 Josh C wrote:I'd recommend a set of white industries hubs if you are looking for something more high-end. Smoothest hubs I've seen. On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 6:04:12 PM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:I second Deore LX! I had those front & rear until I laced up a front wheel with a Kasai FS dynamo hub.On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 2:11:58 PM UTC-8 aeroperf wrote:I like the Deore LX trekking equipment.  A rear hub would be FH-T670.Quiet and bulletproof.  I’ve laced them to Velocity Atlas and Velocity Dyads.For a front hub, I tend to use Shimano 105s because they are reliable and reasonably cheap.



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Re: [RBW] Large orange HubbuHubbuh For Sale

2024-03-04 Thread Richard Rose
What size riders did/does this fit?Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 4, 2024, at 9:02 AM, Julian Westerhout  wrote:For Sale:    Large Rivendell HubbuHubbuH  tandem. Orange. 

Built up with Shimano Deore deraillers and V-brakes, plus rear disk brake set up as a drag brake controlled by stoker. Shifters are Suntour power ratchet. Bullmoose Boscos up front, Boscos with the limited edition V-stoker stem in the back. Portuguese cork grips. SP dynamo front hub, Deore rear — Rich Lesnick built wheels with Maxxis tires and V-O fenders. Front and rear lights. Nitto large front rack and Wald basket. Bike currently has sprung Brooks saddles front and rear (not the B-17 up front in the photo). 

I am not selling the bags in the photo, and the bike will come with two sets of VP flat pedals (the ones on the front). 

This is a very nice build, and in very clean condition. We like the bike, but have 4 (!) tandems and limited space, and this one gets the least use, so needs to go. 

I’m in central Illinois, and could meet folks within an couple of hours, and will be driving east to Maryland March 11 via Indianapolis, Columbus, Morgantown, WV etc. and will be returning via Philadelphia (will be at the Philly Bike) on March 16 and could meet someone on or near that route as well if a deal is reached quickly. Can include a Thule or Yakima rooftop rack attachment as an extra if needed.

More photos on request. 

$2800    

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 




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Re: [RBW] Susie Lugged Vs. Susie Fillet Brazed

2024-03-03 Thread Richard Rose
As a Gus owner I cannot believe there would be any noticeable difference. I think the bottom bracket difference is 5mm? Riv says no difference & they also said there was no ride difference between the original Gus/Susie. Splitting hairs?Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 2, 2024, at 1:56 PM, Tommy Love  wrote:Has anyone here who already owns a fillet brazed Susie Longbolts test ride the new lugged Susie Longbolts?  Curious if the ride is noticeably different with the lower BB.  Not saying I'm gonna buy one, but I do like the colors and the lug detail.  Here's my Susie, cruising it like a 1936 Harley Knucklehead.Tommy Socal



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-03-02 Thread Richard Rose
A couple of interesting(?) Roaduno tidbits in yesterday’s blog. Sounds like a distinct possibility that the complete will come with the new Silver 3 crank. And the bit about the head badge goof has me planning to paint the “window”, should I be lucky enough to get one. Not going to happen if I am unable to sell my Ibis.:(Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 16, 2024, at 8:05 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:Per today’s e mail update - Roaduno completes due in May, not April. Not sure if that includes the non completes.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 7, 2024, at 1:03 PM, Berkeleyan  wrote:"
I have a threaded through-axle with big heavy 17mm nuts, front and back.
 And I carry a Park bottle opener with 17mm socket on the end to remove 
the wheels."Er, make that 15mm... I was thinking of motorcycle parts at the same time.- Andrew



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Re: [RBW] Re: Crankset/BB question

2024-03-02 Thread Richard Rose
I was thinking the very same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 2, 2024, at 12:16 AM, Josiah Anderson  wrote:It's hard to say for sure from the picture, but it looks like your fd is at a bit of an angle, and rotating it to straight might allow a bit more crankarm clearance.Josiah AndersonMissoula MT Le ven. 1 mars 2024 à 7:33 PM, Adam  a écrit :Thanks all for the help.I got the VO cranks a week or so ago, and today finally had time to install them. The process was smooth, easy so far. No issues with the current BB, which I forgot to measure, but assume is either 113 or 115, based on the previous cranks. I don't think the picture below captures it well, but the 46 ring lines up just inside the middle of the cassette.I don't think the FD is going to work--it currently rubs the chain in the lower two sprockets on the cassette, BUT if I move it out so that it doesn't rub it hits the crank arm. Not sure the solution there? Do I need a different derailer? I'm assuming so, recommendations? I really may just pull it and go "manual" for now, since the 30 is more wishful thinking than part of regular rides around here.Any other thoughts?AdamOn Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 10:47:54 AM UTC-6 krisbu...@gmail.com wrote:AdamI have the VO 50.4 bcd cranks on my Saluki and a 118mm bb was actually too short. I had to use a 122.5 and even that was pretty tight.-KrisOn Saturday, February 17, 2024 at 10:01:33 PM UTC-6 Bikie#4646 wrote:Adam,I meant to add that prices on digital micrometers seem to have gone down over time. I replaced my old "analog" PITA micrometer on Amazon for twenty-five bucks. I would not go for the cheapest though. I opted for one with an auto "OFF" setting so you won't burn the battery out when you set it down and forget it.Paul GermainMidlothian, Va.On Saturday, February 17, 2024 at 10:55:25 PM UTC-5 Bikie#4646 wrote:Adam,Just saying . If you like the paint job on your bike, be mindful when applying muscle to the BB remover tool. You'll be using a heavy-ish adjustable wrench. So, adjust it so it's snug. It's pretty easy to have that tool come out and the wrench can chip the vulnerable BB shell paint edge. Ask me how I know.Paul GermainMidlothian, Va.On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 1:07:21 PM UTC-5 Adam wrote:Hi all,A while back I posted about low q, low-range cranks for my Hillborne.I just ordered one of the VO 46/30s, which seems like a good option at the price. I'll use the stock rings first, then tweak them down the road.A few questions - I'm going to try the install myself--I think--and this is my first attempt.I understand that the VO 46/30 is supposed to be paired with a 118mm BB. I have read on here of folks using shorter spindles. I currently have either a 113 or 115mm on the Hillborne. I'm assuming the only way to know is to remove the cranks and measure? Has anyone here tried a shorter spindle on their Hillborne with the VO cranks?My question - Should I try simply swapping cranks and see how the VO cranks do at 115/113mm? If so, what would I be watching for to suggest a problem? OR is this a dumb way to start tinkering with cranks? And if so, any thoughts on swapping BB vs taking it a shop? (I have great shops nearby, but like to gradually learn a few things every so often.)Thanks!Adam



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Re: [RBW] New bike decision (help!)

2024-02-25 Thread Richard Rose
Patrick, my Jones was a “Jones 29”. This was the Jones “29’er” and came just before the “Jones Plus” bikes, be it LWB or SWB. Mine was a 130 spaced frame front & rear. It was a Diamond frame (not spaceframe) with a unicrown fork (not truss). Quick release axles and a very tight wheelbase. The current Jones SWB is the direct descendant of the Jones 29. I ran this bike with a 29” x 3” tire up front. It could actually take a 26” x 4.5” fatbike wheel! 29” x 2.6” was the most I could fit in the back. If memory serves it had a 73mm bb shell & I had no issues as far as q-factor. I am actually rather sensitive to wide Q & had to sell my fatbike due to it. Maybe the newer boost bikes have a wider Q, not sure.Anyway it was a fantastic mountain bike. It was pretty good at most everything else as well. I had a second set of wheels with 2.25” smoothish tires for commuting / road duties. I never thought I would sell it.But, I got the full suspension bug. And then I got the chance to ride a Clem & bought it - from the same guy who sold me the Jones! I was smitten immediately with the long stays & upright position of the Clem. I loved it so much I just had to get a Gus which has replaced the full suspension bike as my mountain bike. It (Gus) is every bit as capable as the Jones on singletrack - just more comfortable.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:This is very interesting; I thought all Riv models except the various road models were "country bikes" but to hear the Gus compared to a Jones would seem to be high praise, from what I read about the Jones (it's one of Bike Snob's keepers in his current bike purge).I just gave away my sole mountain bike -- the much modified Monocog 29er -- in favor of a fatter-tire second wheelset for my Matthews "road bike for dirt,"  but I'll have to consider a Gus if I ever decide to get another mtb. Question: Can you get a =/< 160 mm Q with a Gus? What kept me from getting a Jones was the >160 mm Q.Patrick Moore, also closing in very rapidly on 69, in ABQ, NM.On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 1:57 PM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:I’ve not ridden a Platypus but I’ve yet to hear it described as a trail bike. Love, love, love my Clem on & off road but if things get dicey it’s a bit overwhelmed with the lower bottom bracket - compared to my Gus. The Gus or the new Susie (get one! Run do not walk!) are singletrack machines. Yes they are good for other duties as well but are conceived & built to be mountain bikes. I am blown away by it on rough, rooty & slightly rocky singletrack. It is every bit the mountain bike that a Jones is (I had one) which is of course highly regarded in that category. I’ve yet to experience a pedal strike on the Gus. I’ve had quite a few on the Clem. And I am pretty decent at avoiding them if I do say so. So, IMHO if what you are looking for is a singletrack bike get the new Susie or try to find a leftover one/Gus.FWIW, I am closing on 69 years old & have ditched my full suspension bike in favor of the Gus. As you allude to, I am a bit less aggressive on the Gus vs. the Ibis. I think that’s is smarter at my age. No less fun though.:)Sent from my iPhone



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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-25 Thread Richard Rose
Oops! Shimano bottom brackets, not Nitto!Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 6:26 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:This issue (crank arm proper clearance) befuddles me also. With the Riv supplied Nitto brackets on both my Clem & Gus I have HUGE clearance. Small ring has plenty also. Clearly I could use a shorter spindle. Perhaps there is an issue with tire rub on these bikes? Running 55mm tires on Clem, 2.6” on Gus.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:48 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:It's good to know that these SL bbs are recommended by a knowledgeable professional -- well, since Peter carries them, that is probably recommendation in itself. I ordered one myself yesterday, a 127 mm to try to skim off a few mm of the Q on my Matthews "road bike for dirt" -- with the current 130 mm Phil there are about 3 mm of unused airspace between the inside of the left arm and the outside of the stay. Must also try that NOS 125 mm SunTour Greaseguard bb, but I fear that even with right arm skimming the stay on its side -- as it is with proper chainline -- the left arm will still rub.May soon have a NOS/NIB ST GG bb bearing assembly for sale Alas, the 127s are available only with plastic cups, but iboblist scuttlebutt says that they hold up fine, and Peter said he could not recall ever having problems with them. Still, I'd have preferred metal for aesthetic, philosophical, and moral reasons.On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 7:48 AM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:Good Morning! Attached here is a pic from Peter White website. BTW, I called, Peter answered & after a nice conversation I ordered over the phone. It arrived in two days. Nice transaction for sure. Also, these bottom brackets came highly recommended by Analog Cycles - good enough for me.:)The Shimano bb that I replaced was a 118, this Stronglight is 119. I ordered the more expensive one with the aluminum vs. plastic cups. Still just $50.00! And you are correct, I did not change anything else.



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Re: [RBW] Re: New bike decision (help!)

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose
What am I missing? Aren’t the Susie’s available right now? I mean, I know they are not here yet but at least they have not sold out. Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 9:12 PM, Tim Bantham  wrote:Based on what you have described I would continue to ride your Krampus as you wait for the Susie's to become available. My past Riv's that I have personally owned have been an Appaloosa and a Clem H. Those bikes are no longer in my stable. Between the two I enjoyed riding the Appaloosa off road more so then the Clem H. I build the Clem H as a purpose build analog mountain bike. I had a very nice build sparing no expense and I hated that bike. Part of the problem is that I wanted the bike to more then it was capable of. I live on the east coast where the terrain is rocky and rooted. There is a lot of stuff that you have to get off and walk with a fully rigged bike, The Clem was too long and unwieldy. Riding it was a chore in woods. The long chain stays were more of a bug than a feature. To be clear this was the Clem H which Riv no longer makes. Maybe the Clem L is better. I am only sharing my opinion based on the Clem H. On the other hand the Appaloosa was set up as my dirt road touring bike. I can share one experience when I was riding with friends who were all on full suspension mountain bikes and/or hardtails and I had no difficulty keeping up. The terrain on this particular set of trails was fast and flowy and not rocky/rooted . The Clem H would have been more cumbersome in that same situation. I currently have a modern all carbon full suspension mountain bike that easily handles the trails near me. Problem is that I don't ride it enough so it is currently up for sale. That bike is not easy to live with either. The suspension is something that I can't service myself, it has hydraulic disc brakes which I consider to be fiddly. AND I really don't like driving my bike in the car to get to the trailhead. The Rivs that I currently own are a Platypus that I just finished building up this month, An A. Homer Hilsen that is currently in my work stand and my beloved Sam Hilborne. I've only ridden the Platy about 40 miles so far but I love this bike! That said, I  won't love riding the Platypus off road. In my opinion its just not the right bike for that. I personally would be much more comfortable on the Sam. The Homer will be strictly used as my road bike. Keep riding the Surly that you own. Wait for the Susie and make a decision at that point. I would hesitate to rush into anything else just because they are currently available. Hope that helps. On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 7:51:43 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:The riding you're describing says Susie but - as you say - the Clem L will handle most of it. I don't need lugs either and I love my L (haven't ridden it on trails yet but will), I think this is the way unless you're super into the looks/color of Susie. Also Clem L means cheaper and no waiting! On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 8:51:21 AM UTC-8 Gregger wrote:Long time listener, first time caller.  It's a bit hard to tell if you lovely folks on this forum enjoy or loathe these "help me pick a bike" posts - there are a lot of them - but I really would greatly appreciate your input on my situation.  I bought a Leo Roadini a while back (my first Riv) and love it for pavement and gravel roads.  I now want to look into a trail bike for everything from dirt paths to midwestern single track (grounded and cautious - I'm 62 years).So, I'm torn between a Platypus (love the aesthetics) and a Clem L (the ride experience is evidently sublime?). Or should I wait for the new stouter Susie to arrive (did I mention I weigh 205 lbs?).  I only ride for exercise a couple of hours a day, so no lugging weight on racks or bags . . .  would I overwhelm the Platypus frame in the woods?  Would the Clem have the ground clearance for roots and rocks?  Obviously the Susie would be the safe and conservative choice, but I'm not a very patient person (this May? Any guarantees?), and I really do love the purple Platypus available currently.  The Clem L would offer a slightly larger tire clearance, and the low(ish) bottom bracket height would likely be sufficient 94.3 % of the time; and tig welds are just fine with me (sorry for the hurt feelings).Or, a forth option - to be truly difficult, should I keep riding my Surly Krampus in the woods and continue to risk wiping out and injuring myself - it just demands to be ridden with abandon, and I scare myself.  That's my problem I guess, not the bike's.Thank you so much in advance.  I know I've probably left out relevant information, but I've tried to keep this somewhat short.  Fail.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose
This issue (crank arm proper clearance) befuddles me also. With the Riv supplied Nitto brackets on both my Clem & Gus I have HUGE clearance. Small ring has plenty also. Clearly I could use a shorter spindle. Perhaps there is an issue with tire rub on these bikes? Running 55mm tires on Clem, 2.6” on Gus.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:48 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:It's good to know that these SL bbs are recommended by a knowledgeable professional -- well, since Peter carries them, that is probably recommendation in itself. I ordered one myself yesterday, a 127 mm to try to skim off a few mm of the Q on my Matthews "road bike for dirt" -- with the current 130 mm Phil there are about 3 mm of unused airspace between the inside of the left arm and the outside of the stay. Must also try that NOS 125 mm SunTour Greaseguard bb, but I fear that even with right arm skimming the stay on its side -- as it is with proper chainline -- the left arm will still rub.May soon have a NOS/NIB ST GG bb bearing assembly for sale Alas, the 127s are available only with plastic cups, but iboblist scuttlebutt says that they hold up fine, and Peter said he could not recall ever having problems with them. Still, I'd have preferred metal for aesthetic, philosophical, and moral reasons.On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 7:48 AM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:Good Morning! Attached here is a pic from Peter White website. BTW, I called, Peter answered & after a nice conversation I ordered over the phone. It arrived in two days. Nice transaction for sure. Also, these bottom brackets came highly recommended by Analog Cycles - good enough for me.:)The Shimano bb that I replaced was a 118, this Stronglight is 119. I ordered the more expensive one with the aluminum vs. plastic cups. Still just $50.00! And you are correct, I did not change anything else.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose
Silver wide/low standard issue.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:46 AM, Kris Burns  wrote:What crankset are you using?On Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 12:14:10 PM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer I got about what BB to get went something like " we will look into it and send you the right one". The one I got does work but the box it came in does not give me the information I seek.Here are my questions. Gus and Susie have 73 shells. Riv does not list 73 bb's for sale. And they suggest which 68mm IRD one to get for your Gus/Susie - 123 width with right side spacer(?). Am I to conclude that 68mm bottom brackets work on a 73mm shell? An Tange bb has become available that is a 68mm with a 122.5 spindle. Will it work on my Gus. What about the drive side spacer?Please excuse my ignorance. I would like to upgrade my bottom bracket and really have no idea what will fit best. I gather a lot of different spindle lengths will work but not ideally?



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Re: [RBW] New bike decision (help!)

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose
I’ve not ridden a Platypus but I’ve yet to hear it described as a trail bike. Love, love, love my Clem on & off road but if things get dicey it’s a bit overwhelmed with the lower bottom bracket - compared to my Gus. The Gus or the new Susie (get one! Run do not walk!) are singletrack machines. Yes they are good for other duties as well but are conceived & built to be mountain bikes. I am blown away by it on rough, rooty & slightly rocky singletrack. It is every bit the mountain bike that a Jones is (I had one) which is of course highly regarded in that category. I’ve yet to experience a pedal strike on the Gus. I’ve had quite a few on the Clem. And I am pretty decent at avoiding them if I do say so. So, IMHO if what you are looking for is a singletrack bike get the new Susie or try to find a leftover one/Gus.FWIW, I am closing on 69 years old & have ditched my full suspension bike in favor of the Gus. As you allude to, I am a bit less aggressive on the Gus vs. the Ibis. I think that’s is smarter at my age. No less fun though.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:51 AM, Gregger  wrote:Long time listener, first time caller.  It's a bit hard to tell if you lovely folks on this forum enjoy or loathe these "help me pick a bike" posts - there are a lot of them - but I really would greatly appreciate your input on my situation.  I bought a Leo Roadini a while back (my first Riv) and love it for pavement and gravel roads.  I now want to look into a trail bike for everything from dirt paths to midwestern single track (grounded and cautious - I'm 62 years).So, I'm torn between a Platypus (love the aesthetics) and a Clem L (the ride experience is evidently sublime?). Or should I wait for the new stouter Susie to arrive (did I mention I weigh 205 lbs?).  I only ride for exercise a couple of hours a day, so no lugging weight on racks or bags . . .  would I overwhelm the Platypus frame in the woods?  Would the Clem have the ground clearance for roots and rocks?  Obviously the Susie would be the safe and conservative choice, but I'm not a very patient person (this May? Any guarantees?), and I really do love the purple Platypus available currently.  The Clem L would offer a slightly larger tire clearance, and the low(ish) bottom bracket height would likely be sufficient 94.3 % of the time; and tig welds are just fine with me (sorry for the hurt feelings).Or, a forth option - to be truly difficult, should I keep riding my Surly Krampus in the woods and continue to risk wiping out and injuring myself - it just demands to be ridden with abandon, and I scare myself.  That's my problem I guess, not the bike's.Thank you so much in advance.  I know I've probably left out relevant information, but I've tried to keep this somewhat short.  Fail.



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Re: [RBW] Going really large on Clems

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose
Yes! Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 2:38 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:Isn't Grant's intention with these very long reaches to the bar, to allow bars with long sweepback on a stem of reasonable length and with a lot of rise?In my own case, with short arms and long torso and a drop bar level with or below saddle, I need a very undersquare frame (60 X 56 c-c is perfect) for a level top tube; of courses, if I were to use a non-drop bar with a lot of sweepback, things could be different.On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 11:23 AM Josh C  wrote:I could fit on anything between 59-64cm with the low top tube but I'd pick the 59 just to keep the overall length down. These bikes are already crazy long, I don't want to make it longer unnecessarily, a 64 clem is like riding an 80s Lincoln Towncar. I don't understand the draw of sizing up. 



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Re: [RBW] Going really large on Clems

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose
To Ian’s point, the Clem is unique but very flexible & that long reach is not a limiting factor in my experience. I am (according to Riv) an “in betweener” size wise. I comfortably ride a 52 Clem L with a fistful of seatpost, Bosco bar & 135 FacePlater. Even with the long reach the Bosco needs the long stem - that’s how far back the Bosco comes. So if the longish ETT is “absurdly long” it’s what makes the bike work imho. Possibly important to note is that I have the stem almost at its limit height wise. I know I could ride one size up with less seatpost exposed and less stem exposed as well. I might also need a shorter stem, not sure.But, I also ride a large (57?) Gus which has a similarly long reach as the Clem. I only have a couple of inches of seatpost showing and use a less sweptback bar (Albacore) that has a bit of forward sweep also. So that bike only has a 35mm stem. The handlebars though different on these two bikes are in nearly identical grip positions relative to the saddle - and both are supremely comfortable. FWIW I do not have a long torso/arms. When you have a bike where standover is irrelevant there are all kinds of possibilities.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 12:27 PM, ian m  wrote:I'm a proponent of sizing to the largest frame that you can comfortably standover, but obviously the Clem L throws that out the window. The thing to look out for on the Clem's is the absurdly long effective top tube. I previously owned a 52 Clem H (83PBH here) and I think it had a 61cm top tube?? Could never get comfortable even with albatross bars. Looks like the current models are even longer, but you are right, the reach remains near the same as the stack increases, bringing the handlebars up and closer to begin with. But a near 47cm reach is nothing to sneeze at, unless you have a very long torso/arms you'll be running exclusively very swept back bars. For comparison a Hillborne reach averages 10cm shorter.On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 11:53:00 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:I've no advice on Riv sizing except that I personally prefer to downsize wrt their recommendations, but I do want to remind you that list rules require you to post photos of your bikes if they are at all interesting, and yours sound interesting indeed.[For the terminally earnest: No, there is no such list rule, but posting photos of interesting bikes is what old fashioned Catholic moral doctrine called a temporal work of mercy, like caring for the sick and visiting the imprisoned. That's a joke too.]So, please do!On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 9:49 AM Paul Donald  wrote:Hi, I'm new here, all my Rivendell ownership is currently confined to their components all over my Riv-esque bikes, Soma Saga, New Albion Privateer, Schwinn High Sierra (that one is destined to be replaced with a proper Riv) Omnium Cargo. It would be nice to have the main course and not just be fiddling with the condiments.I've been reading what folks have written about Riv sizing, both here and on Rivs website, and was particularly interested in Grant's experiment with a 64 Clem for his 85mm PBH. I have a PBH of 85.5 so in theory I could do similar. Oddly, according to their spec sheets, a 64 has 1mm less reach than a 59.Anyone cheerfully riding against the grain size-wise?



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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-23 Thread Richard Rose
Kim, I do have it & will dig it up tomorrow. By the way, my Shimano bb felt fine until I removed the crank & spun the bottom bracket by hand. It was not “crunchy” as others have described. It was stiff though & felt kind of “notchy”, almost indexed. I had put almost 7,000 miles on it so figured now was the time. The new one is really smooth.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 23, 2024, at 10:46 PM, Kim H.  wrote:@Richard -Do you know of the model serial number of the Stronglight BB that you bought from Peter White Cycles for your Clem ? ... providing that you have not changed up your stock SILVER double 34/24T rings and spindle length.From the information that you have shared, I am concerned about my BB on my Clem not being buttery smooth from the stock Shimano BB and having perhaps a lot of drag.Thank-you.Kim Hetzel. On Friday, February 23, 2024 at 7:09:08 AM UTC-8 Richard Rose wrote:Thanks Regi. The BB I have on the Gus does work fine. I recently replaced the Shimano BB on my Clem (it felt very stiff) after 7,000 miles of service with a Stronglight unit from Peter White. I was shocked how much smother it is. This got me thinking about replacing the same Shimano unit on my Gus that only has about 1,600 miles use. One of the IRD higher end units (UN-95?) came up for sale here in the proper spindle width (122.5) that caught my eye. It is a 68mm unit but those conversion cups would take care of that. However I am still confused by the Riv suggestion that you need a bb with the driveside spacer or offset spindle. As in, is it sufficient to get a bb with a 122-123 spindle or does it have to be offset. I am guessing this all has to do with chainline & chainring clearance particularly with wider tires?Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 11:42 PM, R. Alexis <noj...@webtv.net> wrote:Looking at IRD website the IRD Quad has a 73mm conversion cups and a conversion washer to change the 68 to a 73. Bottom brackets without a shoulder can be mounted to work with both 68 and 73mm bottom brackets. The bottom bracket would fit further in the shell. I did this with a TruVativ  Powerspline bottom bracket. Had the shoulder machined off the 68mm driver side to fit further in the 73mm bottom bracket. The person that took it to have it machined didn't know to leave the tool mounting splines. I ended up putting spanner pins in to install. Does the current spindle length work and fit for your use? Do both the arms and chainring clear sufficiently? Are you changing cranks? I know that on my SunTour cranks with 110/74 BCD and 175mm length I think they specify possibly a 125 or 127mm spindle, but 122.5mm spindles have fit fine on my bikes. Only bike using 127mm is the Schwinn High Plains Aluminum. Thanks,Reginald AlexisOn Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 3:20:18 PM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Well, now I feel stupid. I did not scroll enough. Riv does indeed sell 73mm bottom brackets & one of them has the 2.5 drive side spacer. I presume that one is offered for the Gus/Susie frames. I still don’t see how one of the IRD bb could work at only 68mm.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 3:12 PM, Garth <gart...@gmail.com> wrote:I see their web catalog explanations are as clear as mud ! Maybe that's why they couldn't convey it to you either. They have 73mm UN55's but no explanations, only this...113, 118
122.5 x 73, 48.8 chainline
123, B23X, Right +2.5mmsigh . This can't work for the Silver crank on a Susie ? Well WHY ?  simple question ... -:)Just being honest, I tend not to want to deal with people that aren't able to give clear answers to my direct questions, or don't have the wits to ask me to clarify the questions, to be more specific to get a more specific answer. "Explain so a child can understand it" never seems to fail. "Why ?" can never be asked enough as far as I'm concerned. So to all those inquisitives asking repeatedly WHY ?.I tip my hat to you in gratitude Y-Not ! I can't give you a specific answer about your crank/bb as much as I may wish to as I'm not a mind reader seeing things as they do. I have a stock of various length cartridges on hand and a bag of various spacers and I play around with the combo that suits where I want the crank to be in relation to the frame. Why ? :-) Because someone can "recommend" a certain setup and it be perfect from their perspective. That may or may not apply to anyone else though. It's no different that a mfr. spec'ing a certain spindle or chainline. It's proper from their perspective setting up, but doesn't apply to all the various possibilities otherwise. It is what it is let it go and do what you gotta do.. always with a smile . On Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-23 Thread Richard Rose
Thanks Regi. The BB I have on the Gus does work fine. I recently replaced the Shimano BB on my Clem (it felt very stiff) after 7,000 miles of service with a Stronglight unit from Peter White. I was shocked how much smother it is. This got me thinking about replacing the same Shimano unit on my Gus that only has about 1,600 miles use. One of the IRD higher end units (UN-95?) came up for sale here in the proper spindle width (122.5) that caught my eye. It is a 68mm unit but those conversion cups would take care of that. However I am still confused by the Riv suggestion that you need a bb with the driveside spacer or offset spindle. As in, is it sufficient to get a bb with a 122-123 spindle or does it have to be offset. I am guessing this all has to do with chainline & chainring clearance particularly with wider tires?Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 11:42 PM, R. Alexis  wrote:Looking at IRD website the IRD Quad has a 73mm conversion cups and a conversion washer to change the 68 to a 73. Bottom brackets without a shoulder can be mounted to work with both 68 and 73mm bottom brackets. The bottom bracket would fit further in the shell. I did this with a TruVativ  Powerspline bottom bracket. Had the shoulder machined off the 68mm driver side to fit further in the 73mm bottom bracket. The person that took it to have it machined didn't know to leave the tool mounting splines. I ended up putting spanner pins in to install. Does the current spindle length work and fit for your use? Do both the arms and chainring clear sufficiently? Are you changing cranks? I know that on my SunTour cranks with 110/74 BCD and 175mm length I think they specify possibly a 125 or 127mm spindle, but 122.5mm spindles have fit fine on my bikes. Only bike using 127mm is the Schwinn High Plains Aluminum. Thanks,Reginald AlexisOn Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 3:20:18 PM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Well, now I feel stupid. I did not scroll enough. Riv does indeed sell 73mm bottom brackets & one of them has the 2.5 drive side spacer. I presume that one is offered for the Gus/Susie frames. I still don’t see how one of the IRD bb could work at only 68mm.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 3:12 PM, Garth  wrote:I see their web catalog explanations are as clear as mud ! Maybe that's why they couldn't convey it to you either. They have 73mm UN55's but no explanations, only this...113, 118
122.5 x 73, 48.8 chainline
123, B23X, Right +2.5mmsigh . This can't work for the Silver crank on a Susie ? Well WHY ?  simple question ... -:)Just being honest, I tend not to want to deal with people that aren't able to give clear answers to my direct questions, or don't have the wits to ask me to clarify the questions, to be more specific to get a more specific answer. "Explain so a child can understand it" never seems to fail. "Why ?" can never be asked enough as far as I'm concerned. So to all those inquisitives asking repeatedly WHY ?.I tip my hat to you in gratitude Y-Not ! I can't give you a specific answer about your crank/bb as much as I may wish to as I'm not a mind reader seeing things as they do. I have a stock of various length cartridges on hand and a bag of various spacers and I play around with the combo that suits where I want the crank to be in relation to the frame. Why ? :-) Because someone can "recommend" a certain setup and it be perfect from their perspective. That may or may not apply to anyone else though. It's no different that a mfr. spec'ing a certain spindle or chainline. It's proper from their perspective setting up, but doesn't apply to all the various possibilities otherwise. It is what it is let it go and do what you gotta do.. always with a smile . On Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer I got about what BB to get went something like " we will look into it and send you the right one". The one I got does work but the box it came in does not give me the information I seek.Here are my questions. Gus and Susie have 73 shells. Riv does not list 73 bb's for sale. And they suggest which 68mm IRD one to get for your Gus/Susie - 123 width with right side spacer(?). Am I to conclude that 68mm bottom brackets work on a 73mm shell? An Tange bb has become available that is a 68mm with a 122.5 spindle. Will it work on my Gus. What about the drive side spacer?Please excuse my ignorance. I would like to upgrade my bottom bracket and really have no idea what will fit best. I gather a lot of different spindle lengths will work but not ideally?



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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-22 Thread Richard Rose
Well, now I feel stupid. I did not scroll enough. Riv does indeed sell 73mm bottom brackets & one of them has the 2.5 drive side spacer. I presume that one is offered for the Gus/Susie frames. I still don’t see how one of the IRD bb could work at only 68mm.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 3:12 PM, Garth  wrote:I see their web catalog explanations are as clear as mud ! Maybe that's why they couldn't convey it to you either. They have 73mm UN55's but no explanations, only this...113, 118
122.5 x 73, 48.8 chainline
123, B23X, Right +2.5mmsigh . This can't work for the Silver crank on a Susie ? Well WHY ?  simple question ... -:)Just being honest, I tend not to want to deal with people that aren't able to give clear answers to my direct questions, or don't have the wits to ask me to clarify the questions, to be more specific to get a more specific answer. "Explain so a child can understand it" never seems to fail. "Why ?" can never be asked enough as far as I'm concerned. So to all those inquisitives asking repeatedly WHY ?.I tip my hat to you in gratitude Y-Not ! I can't give you a specific answer about your crank/bb as much as I may wish to as I'm not a mind reader seeing things as they do. I have a stock of various length cartridges on hand and a bag of various spacers and I play around with the combo that suits where I want the crank to be in relation to the frame. Why ? :-) Because someone can "recommend" a certain setup and it be perfect from their perspective. That may or may not apply to anyone else though. It's no different that a mfr. spec'ing a certain spindle or chainline. It's proper from their perspective setting up, but doesn't apply to all the various possibilities otherwise. It is what it is let it go and do what you gotta do.. always with a smile . On Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer I got about what BB to get went something like " we will look into it and send you the right one". The one I got does work but the box it came in does not give me the information I seek.Here are my questions. Gus and Susie have 73 shells. Riv does not list 73 bb's for sale. And they suggest which 68mm IRD one to get for your Gus/Susie - 123 width with right side spacer(?). Am I to conclude that 68mm bottom brackets work on a 73mm shell? An Tange bb has become available that is a 68mm with a 122.5 spindle. Will it work on my Gus. What about the drive side spacer?Please excuse my ignorance. I would like to upgrade my bottom bracket and really have no idea what will fit best. I gather a lot of different spindle lengths will work but not ideally?



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[RBW] Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-22 Thread Richard Rose
I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I 
really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a 
bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer I got about what 
BB to get went something like " we will look into it and send you the right 
one". The one I got does work but the box it came in does not give me the 
information I seek.
Here are my questions. Gus and Susie have 73 shells. Riv does not list 73 
bb's for sale. And they suggest which 68mm IRD one to get for your 
Gus/Susie - 123 width with right side spacer(?). Am I to conclude that 68mm 
bottom brackets work on a 73mm shell? An Tange bb has become available that 
is a 68mm with a 122.5 spindle. Will it work on my Gus. What about the 
drive side spacer?
Please excuse my ignorance. I would like to upgrade my bottom bracket and 
really have no idea what will fit best. I gather a lot of different spindle 
lengths will work but not ideally?

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Re: [RBW] Spring FS Post - Cranks, BB, Seatpost, Handlebars, Nitto Rack, Wool

2024-02-20 Thread Richard Rose
PM sent on bottom bracket.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 20, 2024, at 8:11 AM, Mike Ullmer  wrote:Continuing to clean out the unnecessaries. All prices don't include shipping, but will be shipped via Pirateship:1) Tange IRD QB-95 68x122 Square Taper BB - $50--Tange's top of line square taper bb. This was on my Fitz, no longer need though. Still buttery smooth.2) Nitto Mustache RM-016N Handlebars - $35--Nitto Mustache RM-016N Heat Treated  Aluminium Handlebars. 26.0 Clamp. Some tape residue, but good shape otherwise. 3) Thomson Masterpiece 27.2 Silver - 220mm - $40--Cut down to 22cm overall. The straight section of the post is about 10cm. I used this on my Fitz Rando that has an integrated seat tube light and needed a short seatpost to avoid hitting the wire inside the seat tube.4) Deore XT FC-6206 Silver Square Taper Cranks 170mm with Shimano 122.5 BB - $60--This was on a Trek 520 my uncle gave to me. I ran as a single on a different vintage Trek, but can be set up double or triple with spacers. 110/74 BCD. Comes with the original cup/cone BB. No Chainrings. 5) Patagonia Mens Medium Fisherman Sweater Blue - $50--100% wool. Beautiful deep blue color, very warm. I'm wearing my Woolywarm sweater a lot more these days and want to pass this on. See pics for measurements.6) Patagonia Mens Long-Sleeved Recycled Wool Shirt - $50--60% recycled wool, 30% recycled poly, 10% recycled nylon. I have a couple of these and am just downsizing. Great shape. It's a deep blue color with yellow/red striping.7) Nitto R-14 Rear Rack - $100--Comes with all hardware and struts. Would also trade for a Marks Rack.Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KxSdnsek27UuM9Ka8Mike in Minneapolis



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-16 Thread Richard Rose
Per today’s e mail update - Roaduno completes due in May, not April. Not sure if that includes the non completes.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 7, 2024, at 1:03 PM, Berkeleyan  wrote:"
I have a threaded through-axle with big heavy 17mm nuts, front and back.
 And I carry a Park bottle opener with 17mm socket on the end to remove 
the wheels."Er, make that 15mm... I was thinking of motorcycle parts at the same time.- Andrew



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Re: [RBW] FS: 58cm silver double top tube Appaloosa

2024-02-12 Thread Richard Rose
What a beauty! Any idea what the saddle height is as pictured?Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 12, 2024, at 4:24 PM, 'Gary L' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:I've decided to free up some garage space so my wonderful Appaloosa is up for sale. It's a silver 58cm, double top tube earlier model, but not sure about the year it was made (maybe two iterations ago?). As you can see from the pics, it is in very excellent condition with just some slight discoloration on the head tube from cable rub.I'd be open to selling the whole bike (minus Brooks seat, bag, and front rack) for $1950, or the F/F/HS/BB for $1100 obo. Also anywhere in between priced accordingly.Component list:Deore LX front/rear derailleurs/175mm crank arms and ringsSilver shiftersXTR m900 cantisTektro brake leversNoodle 46cm barsGeneric seat post from RivWheels - Mavic Open Pro rims/Deore LX hubs, 36 DB spokes/Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 40s (not the RH's pictured)I'm in Asheville, NC and local pickup would be easiest, but willing to ship if buyer pays for packing/shipping. PayPal preferred.Lots of pics here:  https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0xGFqhgJG7q01pSend me a PM with any questions!



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Re: [RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-09 Thread Richard Rose
Not only a “cool” bike but a damn fine mountain bike as well. Mine is a large so 700c, or as us mountain bikers prefer, a 29’er. I just finished riding a little over 18 miles of beautifully twisty, rooty singletrack. No switchbacks but one tight turn after another weaving between trees. Set up properly it’s a very agile MTB. The long wheelbase / stays and 2.6” tires at low pressures make for a very forgiving ride. I think some folks think a Gus or Susie on MTB trails is “underbiking”. I think that notion undersells these bikes.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 8, 2024, at 8:53 PM, Hoch in ut  wrote:Gus Boots Willsen is probably one of, if not THE coolest bike model ever. I wish they would’ve designated the smaller sizes as Susie and the bigger as Gus. On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:37:29 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:I agree about the name, I'm mystified that they dropped Gus Boots-Willsen. On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:48:43 PM UTC-8 Hoch in ut wrote:I agree with Richard. Although both would serve your needs, if there is any chance you’ll ride some singletrack, I’d wholeheartedly get the suze. 2.6” tires with that long wheelbase is a riot. Caveat is I only have a 6 mile round trip commute. And grocery is 6 mile trip. So any bike works. If your commute is much longer, I’d say neither bike would be great. Just get a cheap Trek 420 for the commutes. The only thing I don’t like about Susie is the name. On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 3:16:03 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Others here can no doubt offer more experienced opinions but, I would get the Susie and an extra set of wheels. One with 2.5”-2.6” knobbies (Honcho, Ehline) for singletrack or other off road stuff (backpacking), and the other with 2.0” - 2.25 smoothish tires for more roadish use. Susie is such a versatile platform. This of course is my perspective only & reflects my preference for off road excursions.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 7, 2024, at 4:23 PM, Brian Thomas  wrote:Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa later this year. Help me commit!I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo fender?).All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned both.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Lugged Susie at Hope Cyclery

2024-02-08 Thread Richard Rose
I am a og cult member.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 8, 2024, at 4:21 PM, maxcr  wrote:I might be alone here but I think the fillet brazed version will have a cult following in the next years... I'm so tempted (it's my size) but truly don't need / cannot buy another bike.On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 1:29:23 PM UTC-5 Tim Bantham wrote:While I agree that this would be a great deal for someone I wanted to point out that this is the fillet brazed version and not the new lugged version that are on pre-sale at Riv HQ today. On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 11:42:52 AM UTC-5 rolling...@gmail.com wrote:Hey all,Sharing a screenshot from Hope Cyclery's insta feed with some details on this almost-complete Susie that's up for sale. Just needs shifters, grips and pedals. Jarrod's closing his store soon and somehow this bike is still hanging around. He'd love to find it a loving home before he hits the road. You can contact Jarrod through his website or you can google the shop name and get the phone number.  



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Re: [RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Richard Rose
Others here can no doubt offer more experienced opinions but, I would get the Susie and an extra set of wheels. One with 2.5”-2.6” knobbies (Honcho, Ehline) for singletrack or other off road stuff (backpacking), and the other with 2.0” - 2.25 smoothish tires for more roadish use. Susie is such a versatile platform. This of course is my perspective only & reflects my preference for off road excursions.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 7, 2024, at 4:23 PM, Brian Thomas  wrote:Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa later this year. Help me commit!I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo fender?).All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned both.



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Re: [RBW] ISO: Trail Bike

2024-02-07 Thread Richard Rose
That Jones is an absolute no-brainer answer to the op question. That is a screaming deal!Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 7, 2024, at 9:59 AM, Stephen  wrote:Jones bikes were being discussed in another thread, they have some pretty steep discounts at the moment. If your brother fits either a small or large (seems theyre out of mediums) he could get a SWB v2 for $1295. https://jonesbikes.com/jones-plus-swb-v2-complete-bike/On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:46:49 AM UTC-5 John wrote:Trigger warning: opinions regarding "modern mountain bikes."For $1400 I'd watch the local Craigslist and Facebook marketplace listings for a used hardtail from 2016ish or later. Something with 69 to 66 (ish) HTA. 29er/700 tubeless ready wheels (27.5/650 is OK too) at least 2.3" wide. 1x drive train (46T or more big cog in the rear, clutched derailleur). Dropper post. Wide (650mm or more) handlebars. Short (<60mm) stem. Disc brakes (these will probably end up being hydraulic because that's become standard, although IMO cable actuated is fine for most people). That would cover riding a lot of mountain bike trails/singletrack in and around AZ as well as bikepacking routes on forest and jeep roads, doubletrack, etc.Modern mountain bikes are really good. The geo works extremely well with the longer top tubes, shorter stems and wider bars. Big wheels have amazing ability to roll over trail obstacles. With a little technique and proper setup these bikes are incredibly comfortable, safe and capable. These bikes also cost more than fully rigid mountain bikes, ATBs, hillibikes (sometimes), whatever you want to call them. They have suspension forks, dropper posts and possibly hydraulic brakes that need to be serviced and maintained (i.e. complicated)A Surly Karate Monkey or Krampus both fit the bill and could potentially be had for under $1400. A Sklar or Crust is pretty unlikely. Kona Honzo or a Marin are also good bang for the buck. Here's a list of budget hardtails The Radavist published recently. Any used model would be fine. I wouldn't be too worried about the brand, so long as it's a legitimate bike company and checks the boxes above. A mid tier Shimano or Sram group (or at least shifter/derailleur) wold be ideal. The new Microshift 1x drivetrains are cool too. All that said, it may be worth honing in on what your brother means to do with the bike. I hate to say it but "trails and bikepacking" is pretty broad by today's standards, especially in AZ and the Four Corners region. Does he plan on riding rocky, steep, technical trails that require you to lift a front wheel or roll down obstacles? There can be lots of that in AZ. But if he has no intention of ever doing that, a fully rigid bike with biggish tires may fit the bill just fine!Laying it all on the line,John in Minnesota



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Re: [RBW] Re: Wanted: Jones LWBam

2024-02-06 Thread Richard Rose
Eric, for what it’s worth I owned & loved a Jones 29, the standard Jones bike that evolved into the SWB. Jones had introduced the LWB & I think decided to call there existing model the SWB. The Jones 29 was never called a “plus” bike but it comfortably fit a 29” x 3” tire up front and a 29” x 2.6” rear. The front could actually handle a full 26” x 4” fat tire as I recall. My bike was the Diamond frame with Unicrown fork, not the space frame or truss fork. It was a great all around bike. Fantastic rigid MTB & capable bikepacking rig. I actually had a second set of wheels with 2.25” smooth tires for commuting. I admit to being very curious about the LWB but started to have difficulty throwing a leg over the bike due to back issues. Thus led me down the road of being interested in a Clem Smith Jr. “L”. And the rest, including the Jones, is history.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 6, 2024, at 12:39 PM, Eric Daume  wrote:Hey Ryan,At the risk of getting dangerously OT for the RBW list, I'd like to hear your thoughts on the SWB vs LWB. I've owned two LWBs, but I'm currently Jones-less. I enjoyed the LWB, but for my type of riding (either local road riding, or throw the bike in the car and drive to a mountain bike trail), the mixed mode capability of the LWB was kind of wasted on me.EricOn Tue, Feb 6, 2024 at 11:16 AM Ryan Frahm  wrote:I am another vote to pick up a Jones on sale! I prefer the SWB for most of my riding but the LWB sis awesome in its own way. The SWB has replaced all of my other bikes. Though I still need to sell a Tanglefoot Hardtack. Drop bars just don’t work for me…On Tuesday, February 6, 2024 at 6:45:01 AM UTC-8 Mojo wrote:I have a Jones LWB in my quiver of seven bikes and it gets ridden the most. I can imagine selling other bikes, but not the Jones. The long stable wheelbase, lowish BB, short-upright cockpit, fast steering (for offroad, 75 mm trail), room for 3+" tires, all combine to make a unique and fun bike. I recommend the sale.Joe, riding the Jones this morning before the atmospheric river arrives, in GJTOn Monday, February 5, 2024 at 6:27:38 AM UTC-7 Joe D. wrote:Good morning!I know there are lots of Jones Bikes aficionados amongst the Riv crowd, so I figured this post is worth a try. I'm in the market for a Jones Plus LWB (now just called the LWB). And although the Jones Complete LWB bikes are now a very reasonable price new, I thought I'd see if there are any used possibilities out there.I'm open to an earlier version of the Complete bike (they're up to version 3 now). Also open to a Custom Select frame (the one with the truss fork and eccentric bottom bracket) that you've built up, or just the frame/fork itself.Ideally local to western/central Montana, but I know that's unlikely so we'd have to work out shipping.Thanks!Joe



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-05 Thread Richard Rose
Patrick, Roaduno drops are rear facing but horizontal vs. the Quickbeam’s angled ones. I presume that means you could not adjust chain tension without also needing to adjust brake pads? That ain’t happening.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 5, 2024, at 9:54 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:Two teeth will require adjusting the axle-bb length. The Quickbeam and Roaduno have long track ends to hold the axle (or will the Roaduno have long forward-facing horizontals?).With the chain adjusted for the bigger cog you might be able to ride, just, with the chain on the smaller cog, using a freewheel, but the chain will certainly be very loose. You would not want to do that with a 17/19 t Surly Dingle cog!Andrew: Do you use a QR axle on your flip flop hub? I switched from 17 and 19 cogs on either side of my Phil to a 17/19 Dingle so that with the QR axle it's very, very easy and quick to change cogs.Patrick "76 inches and 68 inches on the same side" Moore [Sometimes I wonder if a 17/20 would not have been better: 64"; but then realize that for this bike the 76" cruising gear and a 68" headwind and long incline gear is just about perfect; spot-on perfect would be 76" / 66".]On Mon, Feb 5, 2024 at 7:37 AM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:Andrew, how does the dos freewheel work? Is the 2 tooth difference not enough to worry about chain tension?Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 4, 2024, at 1:09 PM, Berkeleyan <ashtab...@gmail.com> wrote:The paint and fancier lugs on the RoadUno are beautiful, glad to see this coming. Still, I love my 66cm QuickBeam. I stick with a single ring up front and a Dos ENO 17-19 freewheel on the rear, with a 16 fixed cog on the other side. It gets me anywhere in Berkeley except up the steepest hills, and also serves as a fine S24O steed (I rode it from Ferry Building over GG Bridge to Corte Madera for Entmoot that one time. The thing maybe not clear until you ride a single is the extra body english you're going to be employing - I stand on the pedals a lot, and do paperboy up many slopes. This is fine, the delight of not ever shifting while riding is exquisite, and I enjoy the tighter bond with  the bike. It's the "one" bike I'll never let go of.- Andrew, BerkeleyOn Friday, February 2, 2024 at 2:16:12 PM UTC-8 Edwin W wrote:I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.What is the competition, and what are they offering?Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?Edwin



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-05 Thread Richard Rose
Andrew, how does the dos freewheel work? Is the 2 tooth difference not enough to worry about chain tension?Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 4, 2024, at 1:09 PM, Berkeleyan  wrote:The paint and fancier lugs on the RoadUno are beautiful, glad to see this coming. Still, I love my 66cm QuickBeam. I stick with a single ring up front and a Dos ENO 17-19 freewheel on the rear, with a 16 fixed cog on the other side. It gets me anywhere in Berkeley except up the steepest hills, and also serves as a fine S24O steed (I rode it from Ferry Building over GG Bridge to Corte Madera for Entmoot that one time. The thing maybe not clear until you ride a single is the extra body english you're going to be employing - I stand on the pedals a lot, and do paperboy up many slopes. This is fine, the delight of not ever shifting while riding is exquisite, and I enjoy the tighter bond with  the bike. It's the "one" bike I'll never let go of.- Andrew, BerkeleyOn Friday, February 2, 2024 at 2:16:12 PM UTC-8 Edwin W wrote:I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.What is the competition, and what are they offering?Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?Edwin



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-04 Thread Richard Rose
Max, PM’ed you. RichSent from my iPhoneOn Feb 4, 2024, at 1:23 PM, Max S  wrote:So, I've got the ol' flip-flop hub, I've got a DOS freewheel and a Dingle cog, and I even hand the ENO double-ring crank (that I then passed on to Bill). In all this time riding SS & fixed, I've never actually stopped mid-ride to change the gearing. I guess my area isn't all that hilly, so I'll suffer up the hill (or down the hill) a bit, but I don't interrupt the ride. I'm curious, do people with 1x2 or 2x2 "SS" or fixed-gear setups actually stop, unbolt / release the wheel, move the chain, re-tighten, and then continue up the hill?.. - Max "learning to let go of overprovisioned set-ups in life" in A2On Sunday, February 4, 2024 at 1:09:46 PM UTC-5 Berkeleyan wrote:The paint and fancier lugs on the RoadUno are beautiful, glad to see this coming. Still, I love my 66cm QuickBeam. I stick with a single ring up front and a Dos ENO 17-19 freewheel on the rear, with a 16 fixed cog on the other side. It gets me anywhere in Berkeley except up the steepest hills, and also serves as a fine S24O steed (I rode it from Ferry Building over GG Bridge to Corte Madera for Entmoot that one time. The thing maybe not clear until you ride a single is the extra body english you're going to be employing - I stand on the pedals a lot, and do paperboy up many slopes. This is fine, the delight of not ever shifting while riding is exquisite, and I enjoy the tighter bond with  the bike. It's the "one" bike I'll never let go of.- Andrew, BerkeleyOn Friday, February 2, 2024 at 2:16:12 PM UTC-8 Edwin W wrote:I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.What is the competition, and what are they offering?Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?Edwin



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Re: [RBW] Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-03 Thread Richard Rose
Arthur, very interesting re Frank Jones. Although I had heard of that bike I am not familiar with it. How is it different from the Roaduno? Yesterdays update reinforces my suspicion that there may be nothing else quite like the new bike.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 3, 2024, at 9:04 AM, Arthur Mayfield  wrote:Not what else is out there, but what should be—Rivendell should bring back the Frank Jones. 700c, sidepull brakes, 120mm rear hub, fully lugged, fits up to 42mm tires (I have 32s with PDW fenders). I have three Rivs (FJ, Platy, caliper Sam), but my FJ is what I think of when I want to ride simply, or simply want to ride. Without a doubt, an elegant bicycle.On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 5:15:38 AM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:The Surly Steamroller can take a 38mm tire, but no fender.The sadly out of production Cross Check could do a 38mm with a fender.EricOn Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:16 PM Edwin W  wrote:I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.What is the competition, and what are they offering?Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?Edwin



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Re: [RBW] Re: Why baskets and front bags instead of rear panniers or perfect Rivendell saddlebags?

2024-02-02 Thread Richard Rose
Kai, very interesting. But this pic is beyond category!Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 2, 2024, at 10:19 PM, Kainalu V.  -Brooklyn NY  wrote:I’ve got a bike with no top tube, and since there’s no top tube, I think it’s best to load the front so’s to avoid the certain twistability of a step-through. I keep tools and tubes out back, and have a teeny rack to hold a rear light, but that’s it for the back. You’ve mentioned, Patrick, that you may be interested in picking up a Rivendell step-through in the future, if you do, I’d stick to front loads. And Carnival cruise lines put more up front, so there’s that scientific proof…Happy carrying!-Kai On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 5:14:32 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:I'm curious why so many Rivendell-listers prefer baskets to rear saddlebags or panniers -- saddlebags in particular because Rivendell has perfected the rear saddlebag -- I've owned a dozen at least of Riv saddlebags over the years as well as probably 2 dozen Carradices and Acorns and what have you's -- currently have a late-model Rivendell 9 liter or so saddlebag that replaced an already very nice 9 liter Carradice Junior, and it is slightly more practical and much more nicely built and prettier (main reason I got it) than the Junior.I've tried front and rear baskets, in the rear single rack-mounted baskets and pannier baskets, in front as large as the Wald Newsboy; and I've tried huge porteur front racks; but none, rear and especially front, at least on medium trail frames, allowed the sort of straight-stable, quick-cornering handling I like -- I sold my old Herse because it didn't handle as I liked ("like" defined by my Rivendell Roads) with either sizable rear or front loads.But for real, practical carrying -- groceries, errand loads, commuting -- I've gone back over and over again to a light rack and panniers; just so much more capacious and versatile, IME. I've carried 50 lb with aplomb in thinwall, normal-gauge frames, all in the rear (not ideal but on at least 1 old frame very doable) or, better, 35 rear 15 front (current Matthews IGH Riv Road clone).I can see light front loads for very long rides where you want to be able to easily get at the bag's contents, and I am open to being convinced that very heavy loads (50 lb of newspapers) do better on very sturdy, low-trail fork-mounted front platforms, but for ordinary Everyman riding on non-low-trail Rivendells?49 lb:Longboard:-- Patrick MooreAlburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum---Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing services---When thou didst not, savage, know thine own meaning,But wouldst gabble like a thing most brutish,I endowed thy purposes with words that made them known.




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Re: [RBW] Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-02 Thread Richard Rose
More particularly, what else is out there with long stays & wheelbase, is fully lugged & has beautiful paint / graphics?Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 2, 2024, at 5:16 PM, Edwin W  wrote:I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.What is the competition, and what are they offering?Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?Edwin



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Re: [RBW] Re: Northern Hemisphere Winter 2023-2024 Ride Photos

2024-02-01 Thread Richard Rose
Stunningly beautiful pic & bike. I am no expert but that mountain looks decidedly inhospitable!Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 31, 2024, at 1:53 PM, Josh (BertoBerg)  wrote:My Homer overlooking the Sound. Mt. Rainier is in the background. An unusually warm January day for us!<14989057.jpg>



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<14989057.jpg>



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Re: [RBW] Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

2024-01-31 Thread Richard Rose
Jay, my experience only…I read on the Analog site I think, that a B17 properly adjusted does not need a break in to be comfortable. I concur. My first B17 may have come to me with a few miles on it but it was sublimely comfortable as soon as I got the nose up. Probably important to note that I am bolt upright Lon my Clem with Bosco bar higher than the saddle by at least a couple of inches. Based on that experience I ordered a brand new B17 for my Gus. I replicated my position including nose up & that is even more comfortable. I do not know if the nose up thing works on a more road oriented position especially with drops? And, I have not worn padded shorts in a long time. 100% merino boxers for me. Prior to being gifted the first B17 I had a B67 on the Clem. It was very good but when I reluctantly tried the B17 I never looked back.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 30, 2024, at 10:27 PM, Jay  wrote:Next week I'll be throwing a leg over a Roadini for the first time (I posted a couple weeks ago about the frame I ordered) and I thought I was set on my saddle, but decided yesterday I need to try something very different.  A little bit of background before I get to my question...When I started cycling around 20 years ago I had Brooks B17 on my road bike (custom geometry, not too aggressive) and a Masi commuter bike.  It was a while ago so I can't recall what I liked about them, and why I eventually stopped using them, but I do recall one memory...I always used padded bib shorts (still do) and one day in the winter I went for a 2hr ride and only realized when I got home that I just had on my underwear and tights.  In at least that way for me at that time, the saddle was that comfortable.Since that time I've used a lot of plastic saddles from Fizik, Selle Italia and the latest is a Prologo (147mm wide, with a bit of padding).  I used this saddle on two bikes the last 4 months and it was a noticeable improvement over the Selle Italia saddles I was using previously.  I thought this is what I would use on the Roadini (and still may, in the long run).  But when I use it on my Salsa Fargo (bar level with saddle) and ride for 2+ hours, I get friction and general discomfort.  And can I ride without padded bib shorts?  Heck no, I can't even go around my block without bibs when using this saddle.To get to my point, I ordered a B17 in Honey to try out on my Roadini.  I'm getting it tomorrow and I'm going to try it on my Fargo (nice weather for next little while).  I know that overall I need to be patient, only change one thing at a time, and only small adjustments.My thinking, where I wanted to get your input, is that I would be set up the bike so saddle and bars are level, and will likely start with the saddle level (from what I recall this will have the rear of the saddle where my sit bones are located, pointed down a bit, but that's how my Prologo is today and I can ride in the drops and take my hands off and I'm balanced...so I think I'll start there and see how it goes).Any other words of wisdom that I can consider?  Thanks in advance.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Mainstream press article pushing steel bike?

2024-01-29 Thread Richard Rose
I might argue that he is mainstream. Of all the cyclist there are, how many actually race? His take is at the very least, interesting. Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 29, 2024, at 4:00 PM, DavidP  wrote:I may have had a similar reaction when the article first came up in my feed but then I saw the byline.This is Eben Weiss, BikeSnobNYC. He's a regular contributor to Outside but he is in no way a mainstream cyclist (more Riv/Bob-ish) and his articles stand out as a bit different to most of what shows up there. -DaveOn Monday, January 29, 2024 at 3:13:21 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:https://www.outsideonline.com/culture/opinion/theres-no-good-reason-to-buy-a-carbon-bike/?fbclid=IwAR2uIwBwz29AqiFhiVs5TTjdXw2HDNApUOMVh51foKzayEp1u_vB5UMltqUNever thought I'd see this.




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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA Susie Longbolts 59 available

2024-01-28 Thread Richard Rose
Oh dang! I missed that. Screaming deal.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 28, 2024, at 12:08 PM, Danny  wrote:It was on Hope’s Instagram, and for a mostly complete build. Screengrab attached.I’ve already got a Susie otherwise I’d be very tempted to buy this one!-DannyOn Sun, Jan 28, 2024 at 10:33 AM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:Unless I am mistaken the $2,500.00 is a deposit towards a custom build? However, I suspect Jarrod is also open to selling the frame/fork separately & possibly @ a discount.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 27, 2024, at 8:46 PM, maxcr <max.faingezi...@gmail.com> wrote:Just saw a post from Hope: $2,500 - they can box and ship.Someone should snag this amazing deal ASAP.I really cannot buy another bike, otherwise I'd be all over it... this is one of the last Susie's of that batch which I imagine will be coveted in the future by lighter riders. My wife has a small one and loves it.MaxOn Friday, December 22, 2023 at 1:42:04 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:He keeps saying stuff is on sale but not on the website yet. I think he was offering everything to locals first. In his most recent Instagram from this morning he indicates website will be updated soon. In that post he suggests contacting him directly to “make a deal”. I suspect all of this is a bit overwhelming for him. Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 22, 2023, at 1:17 PM, Roberta <rcha...@gmail.com> wrote:Very sad that he is closing.  I got to meet him this summer at the Keystone Bicycle (Philadelphia) bike swap and saw the Suzie.  Gorgeous!  He seems like a decent guy.Much of his stock is on sale, but in a prior IG post he said everything but Rivendell (and another brand), but it's possible he changed his mind on that.On Friday, December 22, 2023 at 9:25:31 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:As of early this morning. Hope Cyclery from Johnstown, PA is sadly closing. Jarrod still has this Susie frameset available at (I think) 30% off. The sale price is not actually visible on the website yet but he made an announcement on Instagram. Someone is going to SCORE!If it where a 56 I might snag it even though I already have a Gus - love the dark gold!



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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA Susie Longbolts 59 available

2024-01-28 Thread Richard Rose
Unless I am mistaken the $2,500.00 is a deposit towards a custom build? However, I suspect Jarrod is also open to selling the frame/fork separately & possibly @ a discount.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 27, 2024, at 8:46 PM, maxcr  wrote:Just saw a post from Hope: $2,500 - they can box and ship.Someone should snag this amazing deal ASAP.I really cannot buy another bike, otherwise I'd be all over it... this is one of the last Susie's of that batch which I imagine will be coveted in the future by lighter riders. My wife has a small one and loves it.MaxOn Friday, December 22, 2023 at 1:42:04 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:He keeps saying stuff is on sale but not on the website yet. I think he was offering everything to locals first. In his most recent Instagram from this morning he indicates website will be updated soon. In that post he suggests contacting him directly to “make a deal”. I suspect all of this is a bit overwhelming for him. Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 22, 2023, at 1:17 PM, Roberta  wrote:Very sad that he is closing.  I got to meet him this summer at the Keystone Bicycle (Philadelphia) bike swap and saw the Suzie.  Gorgeous!  He seems like a decent guy.Much of his stock is on sale, but in a prior IG post he said everything but Rivendell (and another brand), but it's possible he changed his mind on that.On Friday, December 22, 2023 at 9:25:31 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:As of early this morning. Hope Cyclery from Johnstown, PA is sadly closing. Jarrod still has this Susie frameset available at (I think) 30% off. The sale price is not actually visible on the website yet but he made an announcement on Instagram. Someone is going to SCORE!If it where a 56 I might snag it even though I already have a Gus - love the dark gold!



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[RBW] Re: was for sale inquiry now how I got into Rivendell & why I think I want a Roaduno.

2024-01-22 Thread Richard Rose
Preface: I promise Rivendell content here without a for sale post. Doug, it’s funny how our cycling fortunes / preferences change & evolve over time. I was a lifetime “roadie” & had my dream bike for maybe 20 years - a Richard Sachs. But when I discovered real singletrack I was transformed. However I developed a serious lower back issue requiring surgery which turned out great. My surgeon who was not a cyclist suggested a suspension bike might be called for. Well, doctors orders, right?I had tired of road riding so I sold the Sachs & bought the Ibis. And it was fantastic. But, mountain biking requires driving for me and I kind of discovered gravel as a way to ride when time did not permit a trail ride. I needed a suitable gravel capable bike & discovered the Clem L. As a well informed (?) cyclist I knew of Rivendell since their start. But I never considered seriously one of their bikes. The only road bikes I took seriously were ones with the builders name on the downtube. However the Clem intrigued me to no end. The promise of a supremely comfortable gravel capable bike that I did not have to throw a leg over seemed like a great idea. And it was & is really the perfect bike for most of my cycling needs. Unexpectedly it kind of reintroduced road biking to me albeit a different form of it. It’s off road worthiness convinced me that a Gus could replace the Ibis as my dedicated trail bike. Yes, I am a bit less aggressive riding it but I am more comfortable & enjoying a different trail riding experience. Now full circle & as much as I love my two Rivendell “Hillibike’s” I find myself intrigued by the prospect of another long chainstay Riv but fully lugged & relatively light weight & minimal - the Roaduno. If I am to get one the Ibis must go. I do not ride it anyway…Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 22, 2024, at 8:34 AM, Doug H.  wrote:Selling a carbon full suspension mtb to make room for a Roaduno!! Approve!DougOn Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 9:20:50 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Thanks for the official word. I’d decided on my own not to post. I do understand. Thanks.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 21, 2024, at 1:41 PM, Cyclofiend Jim <cyclo...@gmail.com> wrote:Thanks to those who already responded, but putting on my admin cap:>2019 Ibis Mojo 3This would be solidly outside of the selling guidelines for this group. Plenty of other places to find an excited buyer for that. - JOn Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:05:43 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:2019 Ibis Mojo 3, size large. Fits more like a medium. I am 5’10”. Riv content? My Gus has taken it’s place.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 16, 2024, at 4:38 PM, Steve <steve...@gmail.com> wrote:You've piqued my curiosity - what's the bike?SteveOn Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 12:57:17 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:The moderator and others can correct me, but I think that if the bike in question is relatively aligned with Rivendell tastes and might appeal to list members -- if it's generally Rivendellian in taste -- it will be fine. I would not post a FS for a modern CF road bike or downhill mountain bike here.On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 10:41 AM Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:I am still new here & do not want to violate an rules. But, I do have a bicycle that I would like to sell and thought others here might be interested. I will not post here until I hear if it is acceptable. Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] OK to post non Rivendell bikes for sale here?

2024-01-21 Thread Richard Rose
Thanks for the official word. I’d decided on my own not to post. I do understand. Thanks.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 21, 2024, at 1:41 PM, Cyclofiend Jim  wrote:Thanks to those who already responded, but putting on my admin cap:>2019 Ibis Mojo 3This would be solidly outside of the selling guidelines for this group. Plenty of other places to find an excited buyer for that. - JOn Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:05:43 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:2019 Ibis Mojo 3, size large. Fits more like a medium. I am 5’10”. Riv content? My Gus has taken it’s place.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 16, 2024, at 4:38 PM, Steve <steve...@gmail.com> wrote:You've piqued my curiosity - what's the bike?SteveOn Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 12:57:17 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:The moderator and others can correct me, but I think that if the bike in question is relatively aligned with Rivendell tastes and might appeal to list members -- if it's generally Rivendellian in taste -- it will be fine. I would not post a FS for a modern CF road bike or downhill mountain bike here.On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 10:41 AM Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:I am still new here & do not want to violate an rules. But, I do have a bicycle that I would like to sell and thought others here might be interested. I will not post here until I hear if it is acceptable. Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Intro Post // My 51cm Toyo Atlantis

2024-01-21 Thread Richard Rose
Beautiful, beautiful bike. I’ve been thinking that crank would be just about perfect for an Roaduno.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 21, 2024, at 3:40 PM, Brenton Eastman  wrote:Looking very sweet. I love the twin bags front and rear. What size Carradice are those?Hope you let that cola settle down before opening!On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 12:14:10 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:Josie! Good to see you here. As always, lovely build.On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 11:46:56 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:Very nice build -- top 5 Atlantis build, in my book -- and that tiny rack is apparently capable of carrying immense loads.I can't see clearly from the photos, but it looks as if you have knobbies under fenders. First, what are the tires? Secondly, what if any is your front fender QR system, in case you pick up a stick? I am thinking of getting a second, fat and knobby wheelset for one of my bikes and have thought this would mean removing the fenders, but perhaps there are alternatives.On Sun, Jan 21, 2024 at 11:35 AM Josie  wrote:Hello amigos, This is my first time posting up here - thanks for having me! This is my 51cm Toyo Built Atlantis that I picked up about 2 years ago. I take a lot of pictures while I ride, sometimes digital, often on film. I'm looking forward to seeing all of your builds and being apart of the Riv hype!Happy pedalling! ✌️



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Re: [RBW] big big chain sizing method dilemma

2024-01-20 Thread Richard Rose
Novice mechanic here but I thought you did the big/big thing with chain mounted through the rear derailleur?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 20, 2024, at 3:28 PM, Brenton Eastman  wrote:Hi all,Rear: 11-36, front: 46-34-22I'm using the big-big chain sizing method recommended by many. Of course though when pulling most of the slack, my master link lines up with an outer link. So instead of adding one link [outer+inner] from the match point to get my cut point, It's suggested to add [inner+outer+inner] and the chain is looking droopy as hell. Rest assured I will never be in a big-big situation, ever. My rear derailleur is mid-cage so I'm worried it won't pick up all the slack I'm affording the chain in scenario 1. I mocked up a 34F to 11R situation, which I do end up in on mellow downhills, and it looked crazy loose.I cut the chain leaving myself the option to cut again, and took photos. First pic is as recommended by park tool youtube, pull to nearest inner link, add one extra. Super droopy.Second pic is mock up of what chain slack would look like if I cut one more [inner+outer] link out. Still has slack, feels like it wouldn't be a problem in any normal gearing. RD arrives in the mail today. If this exercise is foolish until I have the RD installed, I can be patient. Just curious if anyone has made the judgement call to only add .5 links instead of 1 full link.



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Re: [RBW] OK to post non Rivendell bikes for sale here?

2024-01-18 Thread Richard Rose
Thanks Bill, I will do so. At my age (68) I am much more comfortable & likely safer riding my Gus on singletrack compared to the Ibis. But the bike is a blast and lets you do things on a bike that I probably should not be doing but someone here might want to. I need to make room for a Roaduno!:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 17, 2024, at 8:41 PM, Josh C  wrote:I agree. It's cool that you're digging the Riv and also I'm sure there are folks on here that ride full squish MTBs, carbon road bikes, and all things in between. Not sure about the rules, but I say go for it. Not sure you'll have much success, but why not. On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 6:20:28 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:There definitely are plenty of big-tent cyclists on this group, and there is no house rule against selling non-Rivendells.  I think you should list your Ibis.  Ibis has a ton of retro-chic cache even if that particular model is super contemporary.  I was pricing out an Ibis Hakka just the other day...Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 2:55:03 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I just thought perhaps there might be others here  (actually I am certain of it) who’s cycling world includes non Rivendell bikes. But I get it.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 17, 2024, at 3:17 PM, Armand Kizirian <kiziria...@gmail.com> wrote:Even if you could, who's going to buy that on here? ;) On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 6:56:02 AM UTC-8 steve...@gmail.com wrote:RMRose -  a Gus has taken the place of your  Ibis Mojo 3.  I love it - good on you!   You might try listing the Ibis on BoingBoingShredSleds.com   (I just made that up, please forgive my warped attempt at humor)  Seriously though, what could be more Rivendellian than choosing a Clem for mountain biking?On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 11:54:01 PM UTC-5 CMR wrote:Great bike, unfortunately off-topic, I can't imagine Grant on a carbon full-suspension!On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:05:43 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:2019 Ibis Mojo 3, size large. Fits more like a medium. I am 5’10”. Riv content? My Gus has taken it’s place.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 16, 2024, at 4:38 PM, Steve <steve...@gmail.com> wrote:You've piqued my curiosity - what's the bike?SteveOn Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 12:57:17 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:The moderator and others can correct me, but I think that if the bike in question is relatively aligned with Rivendell tastes and might appeal to list members -- if it's generally Rivendellian in taste -- it will be fine. I would not post a FS for a modern CF road bike or downhill mountain bike here.On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 10:41 AM Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:I am still new here & do not want to violate an rules. But, I do have a bicycle that I would like to sell and thought others here might be interested. I will not post here until I hear if it is acceptable. Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] OK to post non Rivendell bikes for sale here?

2024-01-17 Thread Richard Rose
I just thought perhaps there might be others here  (actually I am certain of it) who’s cycling world includes non Rivendell bikes. But I get it.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 17, 2024, at 3:17 PM, Armand Kizirian  wrote:Even if you could, who's going to buy that on here? ;) On Wednesday, January 17, 2024 at 6:56:02 AM UTC-8 steve...@gmail.com wrote:RMRose -  a Gus has taken the place of your  Ibis Mojo 3.  I love it - good on you!   You might try listing the Ibis on BoingBoingShredSleds.com   (I just made that up, please forgive my warped attempt at humor)  Seriously though, what could be more Rivendellian than choosing a Clem for mountain biking?On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 11:54:01 PM UTC-5 CMR wrote:Great bike, unfortunately off-topic, I can't imagine Grant on a carbon full-suspension!On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:05:43 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:2019 Ibis Mojo 3, size large. Fits more like a medium. I am 5’10”. Riv content? My Gus has taken it’s place.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 16, 2024, at 4:38 PM, Steve <steve...@gmail.com> wrote:You've piqued my curiosity - what's the bike?SteveOn Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 12:57:17 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:The moderator and others can correct me, but I think that if the bike in question is relatively aligned with Rivendell tastes and might appeal to list members -- if it's generally Rivendellian in taste -- it will be fine. I would not post a FS for a modern CF road bike or downhill mountain bike here.On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 10:41 AM Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:I am still new here & do not want to violate an rules. But, I do have a bicycle that I would like to sell and thought others here might be interested. I will not post here until I hear if it is acceptable. Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] OK to post non Rivendell bikes for sale here?

2024-01-16 Thread Richard Rose
2019 Ibis Mojo 3, size large. Fits more like a medium. I am 5’10”. Riv content? My Gus has taken it’s place.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 16, 2024, at 4:38 PM, Steve  wrote:You've piqued my curiosity - what's the bike?SteveOn Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 12:57:17 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:The moderator and others can correct me, but I think that if the bike in question is relatively aligned with Rivendell tastes and might appeal to list members -- if it's generally Rivendellian in taste -- it will be fine. I would not post a FS for a modern CF road bike or downhill mountain bike here.On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 10:41 AM Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:I am still new here & do not want to violate an rules. But, I do have a bicycle that I would like to sell and thought others here might be interested. I will not post here until I hear if it is acceptable. Thanks!



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[RBW] If you plan to get a Roaduno..,

2024-01-16 Thread Richard Rose
would you consider a coaster brake hub of some sort?

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[RBW] OK to post non Rivendell bikes for sale here?

2024-01-16 Thread Richard Rose
I am still new here & do not want to violate an rules. But, I do have a 
bicycle that I would like to sell and thought others here might be 
interested. I will not post here until I hear if it is acceptable. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Ride report: Orange Blossom Special 2024

2024-01-15 Thread Richard Rose
Looks so good! I might have to accept Frank’s invitation to visit & the three of us can do this next year? The Atlantis is beautiful & looks so good with red clay colored tires! Begs the question of how did you choose your bike for this excursion?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 15, 2024, at 8:17 PM, Brian Turner  wrote:This
 is my first ride report here, and the first big ride on my new-to-me 
Toyo Atlantis since fully finishing the build around Christmastime. I 
spend winters away from my home in Kentucky and retreat to the 
relatively warmer weather of the Tampa Bay area.In
 early November, I saw a post on The Radavist about an upcoming gravel 
adventure ride called “The Orange Blossom Special” taking place near 
where I was going to be staying in Florida, so I jumped at the chance to
 sign up for a spot. This event featured three route options; 40, 60, 
and 90 mi. and promised a variety of incredible terrain among the orange
 groves of the Lake Wales Ridge - a geographically unique part of 
Florida that is the only part of the peninsula that was never under 
water. Eons ago, it was more like a chain of small islands, so the 
rolling hills full of endless old orange groves and red, sandy clay 
roads offer a bit more variety than the typically flat prairie scrub of 
central Florida.I
 was advised that tires bigger than 42mm was recommended, and I was 
running 41mm gravel slicks with fenders on the Atlantis, so a few days 
before the ride I swapped the slicks and fenders for more of an ATB 
setup, with 52mm wide Rene Herse knobbies. It definitely changed the 
look of the Atlantis, and made it much more muscular-looking and ready 
for anything.The
 morning of the ride, a big storm blew through, so I was aware that the 
normally fast clay roads could be the consistency of peanut butter in 
places. I felt more confident that I’d made the right decision losing 
the fenders. Last thing I wanted was to spend all day scraping clumpy 
red mud out of my clogged fenders and cantis. I got a bit of a later 
start than the other riders because I didn’t camp at the start like most
 of the others, and had to drive about 80 miles from my home. I chose to
 do the 40+ mi route due to my already late start, and the potential for
 difficult road conditions.The
 first several miles was solo riding for me, but I quickly caught up 
with a group of 8-9 other riders, and we stayed together as a group for 
much of the rest of the route. The
 storied clay roads showed up quickly, and at first they weren’t too 
bad. Fairly smooth rolling, but  the occasional soft section would zap 
momentum and energy right out of you. Most
 of the route was unpaved, but as we got closer to civilization, there 
were some stretches of mild, 2-lane highway where we could struggle 
against the headwinds.After
 a break for beers and food in a little town called Frostproof, the 
route took us deep into the Arbuckle Tract of the Lake Wales State 
Forest, which would eventually turn into the worst riding conditions we 
would experience of the day. The peanut butter clay mud was compounded 
by ruts created by the occasional vehicle driving through. Although it 
was slow going, I was impressed with how the Atlantis effortlessly 
handled it all. The knobbies gripped well, and floated through the mud 
enough to allow me to keep riding, and not have to do any hike-a-biking,
 like I witnessed other riders doing.The
 final two miles in the State Forest featured much drier, smoother clay,
 and several more miles of 2-lane asphalt - which was a nice treat to 
finish up the ride. I was able to ride at my normal speed and finish 
with plenty of time to hang out with everyone around a bonfire, where we
 were treated with grilled gator tail, homemade tamales, and draft beer 
from a local craft brewery.It
 was a great day, and a fantastic ride that was a bit challenging, but 
100% fun. I was hoping that out of the 50 or so riders, I might see 
another Riv rider, but I turned out to be the only one. I’ll be looking 
forward to doing this event again next year, and I recommend it if you 
get the opportunity.LINK FOR MORE RIDE PHOTOSThanks for reading along!BrianLex KY



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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

2024-01-15 Thread Richard Rose
This (to me) is especially true when mountain biking. The trails I like most have a LOT of short but very punchy climbs. The whole experience is one of doing intervals, blasting the downhills but gathering strength for the next climb. My road rides these days are much more chill, without any of the fast accelerations in the pack from my youth. Odd then that my heaviest bike is the one I ride on the trails. Alas & so it goes.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 14, 2024, at 9:03 PM, Ron Mc  wrote:What makes a bike joyous is not 1 mph, 15 mph, or 23 mph, but the dynamic changes between those velocities.  On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 7:25:57 PM UTC-6 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ wrote:
Chris made some good points.   I am not justifying a heavy bike, merely pointing out what you can expect if you take that trip & 'go down the rabbit hole' wrt to reducing frame weight and overall weight including the rims/tires.  You may not get your kicks on Rt 66 ('when you take that CA trip...")Good point on wheels.   If you maintain a constant speed, you minimize the acceleration and reduce the effect wheels have.   But real world riding has a lot of acceleration , so lighter wheels help.  The biggest effect was probably the change from STEEL RIMS to AL RIMS in rotational inertial.John HawrylakWoodstown NJ





On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 08:05:11 PM EST, Chris Fly  wrote:



if you just look at the numbers, you can go down a long rabbit hole and certainly justify a heavy bike.. I agree 1mph isn't anything.. what you can't justify with numbers is what a heavy bike feels like when riding.. some heavier bikes certainly can "ride light", but many don't in my experience.. same with heavier wheels or tires, my 650b Hilsen with Rich-built wheels and 42mm Compass tires do NOT feel like they spin up as well as my Serotta with HED Belgium tires with 28mm Vittoria Corsas on it.. I would never begrudge someone riding what they want to ride, but often, heavy is just that.. heavy..On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 4:49:18 PM UTC-8 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ wrote:During a appearance on The Opiniated Cyclist, Richard Schwinn stated the following:  Reducing the bike weight by 12 lbm, increases your speed by 1 mph, given the same power input from testing Schwinn did.    John HawrylakWoodstown NJOn Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 12:11:36 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:It will always have a dyno hub. I just can’t give up that kind of practicality. I didn’t know Paul components would save me any weight but I’m glad if they do. My Velo Orange levers were pretty feather-light already though. I probably do have the Platy set up as light as I dare, save the drivetrain stuff from White Industries. And Richard has a good point that all that money would only save me a third of a pound.On Jan 14, 2024, at 8:40 AM, Johnny Alien  wrote:Does the raspberry Platy still have a dyno hub? If so that would be a big gain as far as weight loss and lessening drag. Otherwise you have it set up fairly light from what I remember about your posts. Paul components will sure help shave some grams.When weight is brought up the first thing Grant would say is take weight off the engine. Well I just took a massive amount of weight off the engine so I feel that I am now free and clear to be a weight weenie about the bike. :)



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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

2024-01-14 Thread Richard Rose
12 pounds?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 14, 2024, at 7:49 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:During a appearance on The Opiniated Cyclist, Richard Schwinn stated the following:  Reducing the bike weight by 12 lbm, increases your speed by 1 mph, given the same power input from testing Schwinn did.    John HawrylakWoodstown NJOn Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 12:11:36 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:It will always have a dyno hub. I just can’t give up that kind of practicality. I didn’t know Paul components would save me any weight but I’m glad if they do. My Velo Orange levers were pretty feather-light already though. I probably do have the Platy set up as light as I dare, save the drivetrain stuff from White Industries. And Richard has a good point that all that money would only save me a third of a pound.On Jan 14, 2024, at 8:40 AM, Johnny Alien  wrote:Does the raspberry Platy still have a dyno hub? If so that would be a big gain as far as weight loss and lessening drag. Otherwise you have it set up fairly light from what I remember about your posts. Paul components will sure help shave some grams.When weight is brought up the first thing Grant would say is take weight off the engine. Well I just took a massive amount of weight off the engine so I feel that I am now free and clear to be a weight weenie about the bike. :)



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Re: [RBW] FS; SP Dyno wheel bundle

2024-01-14 Thread Richard Rose
Columbus, Ohio?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 14, 2024, at 3:19 PM, 'joe kelly' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:Sold almost everything from the quickbeam even kept a few things to put on my old Bridgestone. What is left is the Sp dyno wheel and the Jack brown green tires.So I’m gonna try selling them as a bundle. Wheel is a SP dyno hub laced to a Velocity Twin Hollow rim. I bought the parts from Rivendell and had the wheel built here in Columbus at Baer Wheels. I’m pretty sure the spokes are double butted but I can’t remember so assume they aren’t and be pleasantly if they are. It was the last thing I added to the quickbeam before cycling faded out for me so very probably less than 500 miles. The tires are in good shape, the one from the front has more tread than the other but both still have the checkerboard intact with lots of life left.Asking $250 for the bundle. Asking buyer to pay half the shipping as a separate payment once it is determined.Thank you Joe



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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

2024-01-14 Thread Richard Rose
Armand, yes, yes & yes! Your documentation will no doubt be very interesting. Let’s start with which triple crank will save you a full 1/2 pound?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 14, 2024, at 3:21 PM, Armand Kizirian  wrote:The key here is to avoid the numbers, and focus on what the threshold is for experience. Let's investigate.Weight is traditionally discussed for going faster, but we are all "enlightened" enough to know to not spoil our riding experience with such matters. However, there are merits to the pleasure of the riding experience being improved, as it relates to weight. IF one routinely rides longer distances, particularly with lots of elevation gain, weight should be considered, but not fraught over. For shorter rides, particularly with minimal elevation change, weight has significantly less potential to interfere with the pleasure of our rides. So far, these examples are equating pleasure with reduced effort. However, the merits of a lightweight bicycle can be thoroughly enjoyed even within a ride as short as a few miles, with zero elevation change. This may depend on how much we care to engage with the bicycle, through spirited riding. All these factors depend on where we ride, how we ride, and where are thresholds lie for what is considered a "long" ride or one with "lots of climbing" (read: mental/physical fitness). I will say that our intuition for what things weigh, is naturally, quite terrible. It is far too easy to unnecessarily weigh a bicycle down when you have convenient means of carrying personal items. When it comes to the bicycle itself, most are not technically minded enough to consider the net effects of choosing various (beautiful) parts in a system, that may or may not result in a bicycle weighing over 30, 35, or 40 pounds.  Lastly, the gyroscopic forces of wheels are a worthy consideration, in the pursuit and feel of a well-riding bicycle. Sensibly lightweight rims, tires, and tubes (yes, tubes) will make the most difference. Note that I have not listed hubs there, as they do not participate in the gryoscopic forces of wheels. I am currently conducting an experiment with my recently acquired Platypus. I have purchased it as a complete, which I'll be enjoying for some time. I will then strip it down and put an incredibly "balleur" build kit onto it, with significant weight reduction in nearly every component. For example, as it relates to this thread, I will be maintaining a 110/74bcd triple crankset, but will be saving half a pound even compared to the Silver cranks. My experiment is for the following reasons: 1. To discover to what extent my Platypus can replace my drop-bar bicycle for longer distance riding. 2. The value of a $750 build kit vs a $2500+ build kit as a matter of experience.2. A fun experiment in seeing how light a commuter can be (no compromise to functionality by the way, front and rear racks w/ dynamo lighting and kickstand will be present) 3. Lightweight parts happen to also be incredibly beautiful, well made, and in many circumstances, more durable and resilient. Thanks for reading. ArmandSanta Monica, CAOn Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 10:51:28 AM UTC-8 Ron Mc wrote:The scalar involved here, 6 lbs, and 15 lbs, hardly fits into weight weenie discussion.  But I do remember a thread about why some bikes feel faster.  Less energy going into changing the rotational speed of components means more energy going directly into drive.  On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 12:31:30 PM UTC-6 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:I am not a weight weenie. I will take the beauty over the weight. I have enough low gears to not even think about. Kim Hetzel...loving my beautiful retirement bicycle. On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 9:50:38 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:It's interesting to view a moderately weight weenie thread on this list!  expect Rivendell make their frames as heavy as they are largely to avoid breakage and resulting costs of return or repairs; that's a guess. But reviewers of even the Clem, which I gather from list discussions is built with heavier tubing than the Platypus, describe it as feeling agile and fast; I recall Patrick O'Grady's very favorable review of his new Clem some years ago I can't find it right now but I did come across a surprising number of positive reviews of the Clem in the -- well, perhaps not mainstream but certainly not RBW-list media.I do think weight matters to how fast (or to put the same thing another way, how easy to pedal) a bike feels, but IME it's not the only or even the most determining factor, as some of the fastest "feeling" bikes I've owned have been relative tanks, and even had rather heavy wheels, tho' none had f+f+wheels. weighing 18 lb.But I've certainly owned frames much lighter than Rivendells that seemed as able to carry loads and be durable and, in some cases, consistently feel faster than the Rivs they replaced - tho' I've owned heavy frames that also felt faster than comparable Rivendells.On Sun, Jan 14, 2024 at 10:19 AM Chris Fly 

Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno

2024-01-14 Thread Richard Rose
Dang. I thought / hoped it would cost a bit less than those other frames. Certainly cost less to manufacture than a Platypus? More than a Clem but…If offered as a complete the build kit should be less than either the Clem or Platy. On second thought the Platy kit is just $525.00 so..?I know, just have to wait.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 8, 2024, at 2:47 PM, Edwin W  wrote:I heard from Riv HQ that they will come as frames ($1750 like other lugged frames) and completes (price and build list not released yet). Looking forward to seeing the colors and build list!EdwinOn Monday, January 8, 2024 at 8:06:52 AM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Well, the indication was a small adjustment but still long. I am guessing they will be shortened less than the length of the dropout slot. As a Clem & Gus owner the long stays are the main attraction of this particular single speed. That and it being fully lugged. I cannot answer the question of when are they too long but I think Riv figured out the sweet spot on their current models. Your results may vary.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 8, 2024, at 8:51 AM, Doug H.  wrote:I too saw that they are planning to shorten the chainstays on the production Roaduno. At what point are the stays too long and how does too long affect ride quality?DougOn Monday, January 8, 2024 at 12:10:07 AM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:On Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 9:32:33 AM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Speaking of Roaduno, I read in one of the earlier updates that the new bike is very similar to a Homer geometrically.  It's hard to keep up with changes, and I think we just need to wait until the end to know for sure what it'll be.  After that "just like a Homer" update, it seemed to get really long chainstays - much longer than the Homer.   Buy now they do say they're going to get shorter again.   



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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

2024-01-14 Thread Richard Rose
Which circles back to original post. Having disassembled my Silver crank I have a new appreciation for it. It’s quite beautifully manufactured and now lighter thanks to the aluminum chainring. White Industries square taper crank in comparison is also beautiful & MUSA. But, complete with chainrings weighs 624 grams & cost $521.00. Silver crank complete with chainguard weighs 781 grams & cost $280.00. So for your extra $241.00 you save 157 grams or .346 lb.At the end of the day (kind of hate that phrase, not sure why?) as Riv owners our frames are heavy especially in my case (Clem & Gus) as are our wheels particularly if you are running larger tires & dynamo hubs. That leaves the remainder of the components where any marginal gains are expensive.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 14, 2024, at 9:09 AM, Sarah Carlson  wrote:Leah,  now you will probably chime in with me and Joe on the conversations when we discuss how a crank can also be beautiful. Because once you recognize it you won't be able to unsee it!SarahOn Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 4:04:25 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:You guys are going to make me want to fall down the rabbit hole again and find little ways to lighten up my raspberry Platypus. And I have now just practically sent an invitation for people to tell me that weight doesn’t matter and I should think about the engine (me) and so on  but not even they can discourage me! I can have one bike to be irrational about.I did do a version of this of the Formerly Mine Clem. I got aluminum bars and new wheels and tires, got rid of the basket rack and it did make a difference. I was riding that thing for all purposes, including for fast exercise kind of rides. Dumb, but whatever. I don’t know about this White Industries stuff but I suppose I’ll go read about them now.Thanks a lot you guys. Yikes.LeahOn Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 6:13:09 AM UTC-5 brendonoid wrote:This thread made me finally weigh my 59cm Susie and it came in 15.9kg. which is more than I thought tbh. It would be 17kg normally I guess but currently doesn't have front rack and basket.There are a lot of places I could save weight I suppose. I have straight guage spokes, and b17 flyer, dyno with rear light. The R14 weighs over 800grams, the old M565 LX hub is hefty...Oh dear...



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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO: Roadini 54 Sergio Green

2024-01-13 Thread Richard Rose
Does the orange one have a different spec than the new ones? The dropouts are perhaps different? Perhaps tire clearance as well? Just asking. The Roaduno changed my mind. I have a tigged Riv (Clem) and a fillet brazed one (Gus). So if I am to have a (completely unnecessary) third Riv I decided it should be fully lugged.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 13, 2024, at 3:39 PM, Doug H.  wrote:I did and have exchanged emails with him. Nice guy and that is a good price. I'm hoping for one of the green framesets but if one doesn't come along I may buy that orange one if it's still available. Thank you for the heads up!DougOn Saturday, January 13, 2024 at 3:18:51 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Doug, did you happen to see the 54 for sale on Craigslist, Cincinnati? I have talked to the guy & the price was down from $1,200 to just $950. It’s NOS or new never built or whatever. Looks new & is orange so from a previous batch? I seriously considered it as I could drive to pick it up but decided I did not need it.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 13, 2024, at 12:24 PM, Doug H.  wrote:I wanted to bump this up one time to see if anyone has a 54 for sale. I could buy a 50 from Riv but the saddle would be higher than I prefer on that size.Thanks,DougOn Wednesday, December 13, 2023 at 1:04:50 PM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:That is helpful Brian. Thank you. And, nice job on the sand-stand!DougOn Wednesday, December 13, 2023 at 12:51:05 PM UTC-5 Brian Cunningham wrote:Here's a visual, if it helps, of what a 54 looks like with approx. 74cm saddle height. If it's not instructive in terms of sizing, at least it can show you the possibilities of creating a quasi-kickstand out of sand.BrianOn Wednesday, December 13, 2023 at 9:18:35 AM UTC-8 Johnny Alien wrote:It generally fits. He would be at the very top of what they suggest for that size but if going for a road fit with drops being at the top is preferable to being at the bottom. Most of their "size up" philosophy is based on upright relaxed riding.On Wednesday, December 13, 2023 at 9:55:30 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:This is somewhat surprising as it does not seem to align with Riv’s published size suggestions? I too am 5’10” & ride with a 72cm saddle height. Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 12, 2023, at 10:14 AM, Doug H.  wrote:I had an email exchange with Will at Rivendell and he suggested a size 50 Roadini for me. I'm 5'10" with an 83 PBH and 71.5" saddle height. Since that size is in stock I'll probably get a frameset to build up. Thanks all.DougOn Friday, December 8, 2023 at 12:18:39 PM UTC-5 John Dewey wrote:On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 5:28:34 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:Frameset or complete would work. Doug HansfordAthens, Ga



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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO: Roadini 54 Sergio Green

2024-01-13 Thread Richard Rose
Doug, did you happen to see the 54 for sale on Craigslist, Cincinnati? I have talked to the guy & the price was down from $1,200 to just $950. It’s NOS or new never built or whatever. Looks new & is orange so from a previous batch? I seriously considered it as I could drive to pick it up but decided I did not need it.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 13, 2024, at 12:24 PM, Doug H.  wrote:I wanted to bump this up one time to see if anyone has a 54 for sale. I could buy a 50 from Riv but the saddle would be higher than I prefer on that size.Thanks,DougOn Wednesday, December 13, 2023 at 1:04:50 PM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:That is helpful Brian. Thank you. And, nice job on the sand-stand!DougOn Wednesday, December 13, 2023 at 12:51:05 PM UTC-5 Brian Cunningham wrote:Here's a visual, if it helps, of what a 54 looks like with approx. 74cm saddle height. If it's not instructive in terms of sizing, at least it can show you the possibilities of creating a quasi-kickstand out of sand.BrianOn Wednesday, December 13, 2023 at 9:18:35 AM UTC-8 Johnny Alien wrote:It generally fits. He would be at the very top of what they suggest for that size but if going for a road fit with drops being at the top is preferable to being at the bottom. Most of their "size up" philosophy is based on upright relaxed riding.On Wednesday, December 13, 2023 at 9:55:30 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:This is somewhat surprising as it does not seem to align with Riv’s published size suggestions? I too am 5’10” & ride with a 72cm saddle height. Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 12, 2023, at 10:14 AM, Doug H.  wrote:I had an email exchange with Will at Rivendell and he suggested a size 50 Roadini for me. I'm 5'10" with an 83 PBH and 71.5" saddle height. Since that size is in stock I'll probably get a frameset to build up. Thanks all.DougOn Friday, December 8, 2023 at 12:18:39 PM UTC-5 John Dewey wrote:On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 5:28:34 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:Frameset or complete would work. Doug HansfordAthens, Ga



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[RBW] Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

2024-01-12 Thread Richard Rose
I am in the middle of a cold weather tear down / deep cleaning of my Clem 
L. This project started with ordering a new chain & large chainring to 
replace worn units. I start taking things apart and am unable to stop. 
Bottom bracket felt crappy so took it out and everything was just really 
dirty so I did not stop until I had a bare frame. In the process a couple 
of interesting things were discovered.
First item pertains to the new chainring for my Silver wide / low crank. 
Its aluminum of course as described by Riv. What is interesting is the 
original was steel and a relative boat anchor! This discovery led me down a 
rabbit hole of weighing everything. I have never been a weight weenie even 
less so since getting my Rivs. But, armed with a very accurate scale and a 
driveway covered in snow I started taking notes...
That aluminum chainring saved me 85 grams weighing in at a scant 58.5 grams 
vs the originals 163.5. Held in ones hand that felt like at least a pound. 
I am curious about when Riv started making the larger rings out of aluminum?
The size 52 Clem L bare frame with headset cups installed weighs 2,932 
grams or 6lbs. 7.4 ounces, topping my list of things I did not need to know.
The bare fork is 1,063 grams or 2lbs. 5.5 ounces. I feel certain the fork 
on my large Gus is twice that!
My 650b cliffhanger wheels built with 36 hole deore hubs shod with Simworks 
Homage tires mounted with tubes come out to 4lbs. 7.1 ounces rear and 4lbs. 
0.3 ounces front. Cassette and q.r. skewers not included.
I will be weighing everything else before assembly but probably will not 
bore the group with the details. I will say this; I am very interested in 
why my Gus weighs at least 32lbs. while another guy's weighs 26! I must 
find out why.:)

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Re: [RBW] Re: headset indexing?

2024-01-11 Thread Richard Rose
Very interesting. A sealed bearing could never “index”, correct? Do my races look ok? Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 11, 2024, at 1:32 PM, Will Boericke  wrote:I'm glad I came across this, as I have a very stiff FSA headset on a frame that I thought was screwed up somehow.  No indexing feeling though.WillOn Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 1:29:30 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:If it's the stock FSA headset with cartridge bearings I was told by someone at Riv that they send them out tight and that's how they feel. I thought it was too tight also. I haven't ridden mine but you have yours so if it's smooth when riding, leave it be as it was. On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 11:20:13 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:While doing a January tear down on my Clem I discovered what feels like headset indexing. The first time I ever experienced this was on my 1970's PX10. That was a Stronglight loose ball headset & you could feel and see the ball indents in the races from the headset being too tight. On the Clem I never felt it - the steering always felt precise. In the stand it felt fine. As soon as I removed the weight from the front of the bike - wheel, handlebars & stem, I could feel the headset was too tight and felt indexed. However, the races look ok to me. Pics of the races included here. My question is do modern sealed bearing headsets indent? If not, what else can cause the "indent" feeling? Crushed bearings? Is my headset toast or just not adjusted correctly?Thanks for the help.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Drivetrain maintenance / life

2024-01-08 Thread Richard Rose
Mine is the un300. I’ve just removed it & it is noticeably smoother off the bike. It’s not “crunchy” & had no side to side play when installed. So maybe it’s not toast yet but it’s out now so…I am honestly considering the traditional cup/cone one Riv sells. The installation does not bother me - I used to do it on my bikes from the ‘70’s. Also intrigued by the Stronglight ones Peter White sells.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 8, 2024, at 12:19 AM, Collin A  wrote:Everyone has a rule of thumb, but this is mine - replace chain at whatever wear indicator is appropriate for the chain speed (9 is about 0.75% wear, 10/11 is 0.5% wear). An 11 speed chain for me lasts about 6000-8000 miles of pretty nasty conditions with proper waxing and cleaning. My 9 speeds last less but those are the ones on the tourer/commuter/rafter bike. Funnily enough, the chainrings that came on my clem wore out pretty quickly, no idea why though. The 7075 alu rings seem to last much longer.As for other drivetrain  parts, I change my cassette after I've gone through 3 chains, and I change my chainrings after I've gone through 2 cassettes. Of my oldest drivetrain currently in use (about 5 years now), I've only just had to replace the cassette once, so I should be good to go on my chainrings for another 5 years, woo!As for BB, no need to replace until they get crunchy, it isn't too hard to switch out a cartridge BB. Especially since the venerable Un55 BB that I assume your clem has is no longer in production and the Un300 are kinda "meh" in comparison.Cheers,Collin "hold on and let me measure" in BerkeleyOn Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 11:18:54 AM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I am two years and 7300 miles in on my Clem. Chain measure tool indicates I need a new chain & 38t large chainring on the Silver crank has some "sharkfining" evident. New chain and chainring will arrive in a few days. Small ring and cassette look good. What sort of mileage do folks usually expect out of these components? While I am at it, bike is apart and standard Shimano cartridge bottom bracket does not exactly feel smooth. It did feel smooth spinning when crank was still installed & there is no play evident. Riv suggests these bottom brackets might be good for 15,000 miles? I do not want to needlessly replace it but the bike is apart so..?



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno

2024-01-08 Thread Richard Rose
Well, the indication was a small adjustment but still long. I am guessing they will be shortened less than the length of the dropout slot. As a Clem & Gus owner the long stays are the main attraction of this particular single speed. That and it being fully lugged. I cannot answer the question of when are they too long but I think Riv figured out the sweet spot on their current models. Your results may vary.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 8, 2024, at 8:51 AM, Doug H.  wrote:I too saw that they are planning to shorten the chainstays on the production Roaduno. At what point are the stays too long and how does too long affect ride quality?DougOn Monday, January 8, 2024 at 12:10:07 AM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:On Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 9:32:33 AM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Speaking of Roaduno, I read in one of the earlier updates that the new bike is very similar to a Homer geometrically.  It's hard to keep up with changes, and I think we just need to wait until the end to know for sure what it'll be.  After that "just like a Homer" update, it seemed to get really long chainstays - much longer than the Homer.   Buy now they do say they're going to get shorter again.   



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[RBW] Drivetrain maintenance / life

2024-01-07 Thread Richard Rose
I am two years and 7300 miles in on my Clem. Chain measure tool indicates I 
need a new chain & 38t large chainring on the Silver crank has some 
"sharkfining" evident. New chain and chainring will arrive in a few days. 
Small ring and cassette look good. What sort of mileage do folks usually 
expect out of these components? While I am at it, bike is apart and 
standard Shimano cartridge bottom bracket does not exactly feel smooth. It 
did feel smooth spinning when crank was still installed & there is no play 
evident. Riv suggests these bottom brackets might be good for 15,000 miles? 
I do not want to needlessly replace it but the bike is apart so..?

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