Re: [RBW] Re: Is an Atlantis Worth It?

[Victor Hanson]

Max,

If upgrade fever is in your make up, you'll want a newer frame.   Because,
taking a late 80's or 90's frame and upgrading the parts pick - opens all
sorts of other problems which you won't want.   Don't forget even the late
80's early 90's there still was vodoo magic running around eg: 11t home
made cogs to convert 7spd to 8 spd speed.  XT shifters carefully filed to
take advantage of the mystery 8th click on xt shiftersect ect
ectblah blah blah..

VTW

On Wed, May 22, 2024 at 9:14 AM Kim H.  wrote:

> @Max,
>
> FWIW, I had a 1984 Raleigh Elkhorn for short time. I really never fell in
> love with it.Two years ago, I had some extra monies, I decided to buy a
> Rivendell Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle. Today, I am very happy with it as a
> senior cyclist after all my personal upgrades.  I am very happy with having
> a step-through frame ( I am unable to swing my right leg over the back end
> of a bicycle anymore) the smooth ride with the elongated chain stays and an
> upright riding position. My Clem is my retirement bike in RBW blue.
>
> I am happy that I spent the money in purchasing my Clem as a treat to
> myself.
>
> 'Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt."
> -John Muir
>
> Kim Hetzel.
> On Wednesday, May 22, 2024 at 8:44:35 AM UTC-7 max.c@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> First: I realize I am asking this to an entirely biased group of people
>> and I'm okay with that!
>>
>> For years I have casually dreamed of owning an Atlantis. I commute 4
>> miles each way by bike, ditched my car a few years ago, and love riding,
>> but I do it pretty casually. I'm not racing or doing endurance rides. I
>> just like riding my bike and I do it whenever I can.
>>
>> I don't need the nicest bike in the world and have been fairly satisfied
>> with my 1988 Schwinn Cimarron that I've made a fair approximation of a poor
>> man's rivendell (somewhat out of date pic below!). However, I've always had
>> the itch to upgrade.
>>
>> Recently, I received an unexpected influx of cash and want to spend it on
>> something fun. I'm wondering: how much will I noticeably appreciate the
>> difference an Atlantis would bring if I were to spend the money? I'm
>> especially interested in the input from those who have gone from the 80s
>> era rigid MTB with swept back bars that approximate a Riv (and Grant's
>> ethos from Bridgestone) to the real deal. Was it worth the money? Do you
>> think you could have gotten by on that 80s frame?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>> Max
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Is an Atlantis Worth It?

[Victor Hanson]

Max,

Sure, a newer frame will have newer touches.  Don't forget a lot of late
80's and even early 90's frames are 130mm spread in the rear triangle.
 Thus, is upgrade fever is your forte (a whole different discussion by the
by) you w

On Wed, May 22, 2024 at 9:14 AM Kim H.  wrote:

> @Max,
>
> FWIW, I had a 1984 Raleigh Elkhorn for short time. I really never fell in
> love with it.Two years ago, I had some extra monies, I decided to buy a
> Rivendell Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle. Today, I am very happy with it as a
> senior cyclist after all my personal upgrades.  I am very happy with having
> a step-through frame ( I am unable to swing my right leg over the back end
> of a bicycle anymore) the smooth ride with the elongated chain stays and an
> upright riding position. My Clem is my retirement bike in RBW blue.
>
> I am happy that I spent the money in purchasing my Clem as a treat to
> myself.
>
> 'Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt."
> -John Muir
>
> Kim Hetzel.
> On Wednesday, May 22, 2024 at 8:44:35 AM UTC-7 max.c@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> First: I realize I am asking this to an entirely biased group of people
>> and I'm okay with that!
>>
>> For years I have casually dreamed of owning an Atlantis. I commute 4
>> miles each way by bike, ditched my car a few years ago, and love riding,
>> but I do it pretty casually. I'm not racing or doing endurance rides. I
>> just like riding my bike and I do it whenever I can.
>>
>> I don't need the nicest bike in the world and have been fairly satisfied
>> with my 1988 Schwinn Cimarron that I've made a fair approximation of a poor
>> man's rivendell (somewhat out of date pic below!). However, I've always had
>> the itch to upgrade.
>>
>> Recently, I received an unexpected influx of cash and want to spend it on
>> something fun. I'm wondering: how much will I noticeably appreciate the
>> difference an Atlantis would bring if I were to spend the money? I'm
>> especially interested in the input from those who have gone from the 80s
>> era rigid MTB with swept back bars that approximate a Riv (and Grant's
>> ethos from Bridgestone) to the real deal. Was it worth the money? Do you
>> think you could have gotten by on that 80s frame?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>> Max
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

[Victor Hanson]

None whatsoever.

First you have to take into consideration the whole frame design!  Builders
like Pino Moroni liked that the rear wheel did not move in fast skittish
situations, especially downhill.

On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 5:49 AM ascpgh  wrote:

> The U Factor
> 
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Sunday, March 31, 2024 at 1:50:18 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ
> wrote:
>
>> Enjoyed reading the thread "Anyone else not a fan of long chainstays?",
>> especially Bill L's explanation of the RBW bike design philosophy.   Seems
>> the prevailing thought is long stays are better for
>> upright riding
>> single track type trails (vs a Rails to Trails type trail)
>>
>> I'll just note 2 'facts'
>> 1  The vast majority of RBW models (except the Roadeo type frame) use
>> slack STA and HTA which may contribute to the ride effect when coupled with
>> long stays.
>> 2.  In the beginning RBW addressed getting the bars higher and adopting a
>> non-racer riding style (back at 45° with hands on hoods), which IMHO were
>> solutions to actual problems.
>>
>> *So What problem or current deficiency in bike design is Grant solving by
>> using long chain stays*
>> Just to bring bikes to market that no one else is building??
>> Or do they solve a real problem???
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> FWIW 2 of 3 of my frames have 44 to 45cm chain stays, and 1 has a 43cm
>> chain stay.It's hard to notice a ride difference.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

[Victor Hanson]

Any are good.  I am assuming you are using a cassette with the standard 34t
or 36t top gear.   Any those you list will do the job adequately. .

vtw

On Mon, Mar 18, 2024 at 10:01 AM chintan jadwani 
wrote:

> I'm looking to try a RR derailleur and want something under 50-60 ideally.
>
> Which ones would you recommend? Were there are early RR derailleurs that
> one should stay from or budget ones that are a good value? Were there
> differences in pulley sizes - so would be better to get one where
> replacements are available?
>
> I'm currently seeing an LX m580, xt M760, an xtr m951 and xtr m952 around
> that range on ebay in different used conditions...and then the prices rise
> very quickly!
>
> Thanks a lot for guiding :)
> Chintan
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

[Victor Hanson]

snicker.this is leaning into the disk brakes are better than rim brake
argument!

On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 9:42 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> "Look at Crust bikes. Somewhat Riv-esque and relatively shorter stays than
> Riv’s. Seems to be plenty of demand for them. "
>
> Absolutely true.  Riv employees who want bikes of that kind buy Crusts.
> Riv-fans who want bikes of that kind should also buy Crusts.  They are good
> bikes and nice people at Crust.  Rivendell also lustily endorses Soma, if
> they are selling what you want to buy.
>
> Riv is not in business to sell you a more expensive lugged Crust with a
> cream head tube.
>
> Bill "5 Rivendells, 4 Black Mountains, 2 Crusts" Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 9:19:21 AM UTC-8 Hoch in ut wrote:
>
>> JJ, I don’t think there is a specific definition of long or short
>> chainstay bikes. Just relative to what the mainstream bike are at that
>> point in time. But generally speaking, I’d consider anything under 17”
>> (~430mm) to be short. I had a custom built about 10 years ago and spec’ed
>> it with 16.5” chainstays for a 29er with 2.3” clearance. After a while, I
>> felt it was too short and settled on 430mm (which is my current bike) for
>> my usage and terrain.
>> I remember when Gary Fisher introduced the Genesis geo with the
>> “revolutionary” short chainstays, long cockpit with short stems back in the
>> 90’s. Ahead of its time, really. That’s essentially where all the mountain
>> bikes are now.
>> As I said, long chainstay bikes have their place and if I had unlimited
>> garage space, I’d still have the Clem. It rides nice on pavement and smooth
>> dirt roads.
>> And I definitely say there is a point of diminishing returns on the
>> length. I had a Surly Big Dummy for a while when my kids were young. Talk
>> about a looong bike. Very useful and rode nice. But it was also cumbersome
>> and if the dirt road had any significant climb, forget about getting your
>> weight back far enough to bite down on the dirt.
>> Riv’s current offering works for a large number of people. Especially
>> ones that ride Riv’s. Perhaps Grant is done with short stay trail bikes.
>> But I’d say there are still a good number of Riv fans hoping for an
>> alternative. Look at Crust bikes. Somewhat Riv-esque and relatively shorter
>> stays than Riv’s. Seems to be plenty of demand for them.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 7:55:01 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:
>>
>>> A few semantic questions: what defines short chain stay (or wheelbase)
>>> vs. long chainstay? Even granting that they are not absolutes, or "you know
>>> it when you see it," what are the relative metrics? And why do we rarely
>>> hear about "medium chain stay"? We seem to jump from short to long.
>>>
>>> As has been pointed out here, Grant/Rivendell has been touting long
>>> chain stays since the very early days, as I discovered when I looked at old
>>> Readers. But definitions shift over time. The long chain stays of Riv of
>>> the late 1990s and early 2000s are today's "classics" with relatively short
>>> chain stays — short in retrospect, and relative to the gargantuan lengths
>>> we see in some models today. So the Atlantis (61) here that I outfitted
>>> with 55mm tires was yesteryear's "long chain stay". If you think this is
>>> outlandish, check out this Atlantis brochure excerpt from when Toyo Japan
>>> was still producing them.
>>>
>>> Would you say that the Bombadils and Hunqapillars were "transitional"
>>> ("medium?" between the older [long then, short now] ones and the newer ones
>>> [super duper long])?
>>>
>>> FINALLY: how long is long enough for all the beneficial characteristics
>>> that long bikes give? Does anyone think Riv will come out with an even
>>> longer frame than the longest we see now?
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 9:08:44 AM UTC-5 Hoch in ut wrote:
>>>
 I should have clarified. I have never ridden a Jone LWB. I owned the
 original Jones 29 spaceframe for a number of years. That was a fun bike.

 I was referring to the Clem. I understand it’s a “Hillibike,” not a
 mountain bike, in the modern world term of that word. Still, Riv markets it
 to be used on “trails.” Which is a fairly loose term. The trails in the Bay
 Area, which I’ve never ridden, seem to be well-manicured. Mostly smooth
 dirt single track, from what I’ve seen.
 We have some of that here in Utah but most, if not all trails require
 some tight turns, riding through rock gardens, and technical sections.
 Whooptie doos are common as well. All of these sections proved to be a
 problem for the Clem. Yes, I could take on more of the ATB mentality and
 get off and walk those sections. Which I’ve done plenty of times on my
 modern mountain bike (which is a Vassago! Single speed, rigid fork). But
 why walk when you can ride? I easily ride through those sections on shorter
 wheelbase bikes. Not fun. For me.
 All this to say, it depends where you 

Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

[Victor Hanson]

that's shear brilliance!   Long chainstays don't matter a  single
attribute.  It's the complete frame design that matters.  At any rate
design and fit are the second most important.  A kook taught me: "first
you; then style and fit, then stuff

VTW

On Tue, Mar 5, 2024 at 10:13 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I promise you that Rivendell is flattered that nice people gather
> themselves to complain about the former-models that Riv no longer makes.
> It shows a love for Rivendell that most other bike brands don't get.
> There's no Specialized google group where current Specialized fans are
> griping about Rockhoppers and Sequoias.  All those nostalgic cyclists have
> bailed on Specialized entirely.
>
> What Rivendell does, and has always done, is build the bikes they want to
> exist.  If you like one and want to buy it, great.  If you don't like any
> of them and buy something else, that's also great.  They (Riv) does not
> care about making money, except to the extent they can keep the lights on
> and pay their people a modest living wage.  They do not care about growth.
> Actually, they probably have made up their minds that they can't grow.
> They know exactly how many bikes they can afford to sell, and they plan out
> making that many bikes.  That very limited number of bikes is always going
> to be "whatever they feel like making".  They count on the fact that
> somebody is going to buy them, and it usually works out for them.  The
> bikes they feel like making are bikes that don't exist anywhere else and/or
> have never been made before.  When they made the Saluki circa 2007, bikes
> like the Saluki didn't exist.  Today, bikes like the Saluki do exist, so
> Riv doesn't have to make them.  The fact that some Riv-fans are nostalgic
> for former models is touching, but they don't make nostalgia models. If you
> want a short wheelbase Rivendell, buy a Crust, ride the heck out of it, and
> be happy.  That's what Riv would tell you.
>
> The Roaduno is the classic, IMO.  They love the idea of a purpose built
> 3x1 road bike.  Nobody...not a single person on earth is pounding on their
> keyboard complaining that it's hard to find a purpose built 3x1 road bike.
> There is NO demand for it, but Riv is making it anyway, because they feel
> like it.  If you buy it, great.  If you don't, they hope you find something
> else that you do want to buy.  It's perfectly logical for you nostalgic
> Riv-fans to gripe "they couldve taken that Roaduno money and did a run of
> traditional short-wheelbase Atlantis"  Yep, they could have.  That's
> not what they felt like doing.
>
> My advice to the disappointed is to just let Riv be Riv.  Seek out the
> bikes you like, buy them and ride them.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 9:49:54 AM UTC-8 jrst...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I like the bit longer chain stays of my Sam and Saluki as well but that
>> is as long as I need.
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 5, 2024 at 12:01 PM Tim Bantham  wrote:
>>
>>> I can relate to this. For me there are pros and cons. For example, the
>>> Clem I bought a few years ago was intended to be an analog mountain bike. I
>>> found the long chainstays to be a liability for east coast single track.
>>> This is especially the case with tight turns and the need to carry the
>>> bike. If I had to do it all over for the type of MTB riding that I have
>>> available to me I would go for a bike with shorter stays and a lighter
>>> frame. That said, I love the longer chainstays on my Sam as compared to a
>>> regular road/gravel  bike. Definitely noticeable on the descents. I ride my
>>> Sam on dirt roads quite a bit and the long stay really shines in that
>>> situation.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hub recommendations for Velocity Cliffhangers

[Victor Hanson]

cheapest you can getShimano LX?


On Sat, Mar 2, 2024 at 3:26 PM Josh C  wrote:

> I'd recommend a set of white industries hubs if you are looking for
> something more high-end. Smoothest hubs I've seen.
>
> On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 6:04:12 PM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>
>> I second Deore LX! I had those front & rear until I laced up a front
>> wheel with a Kasai FS dynamo hub.
>>
>> On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 2:11:58 PM UTC-8 aeroperf wrote:
>>
>>> I like the Deore LX trekking equipment.  A rear hub would be FH-T670.
>>> Quiet and bulletproof.  I’ve laced them to Velocity Atlas and Velocity
>>> Dyads.
>>> For a front hub, I tend to use Shimano 105s because they are reliable
>>> and reasonably cheap.
>>>
>>> --
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Re: [RBW] I only have 1 chance to get a Rivendell.. which would you recommend?

[Victor Hanson]

that's a solid reason to get it mate.  A Homer it is..

On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 8:46 AM Polipop  wrote:

> Only 1 chance because I'm living in Asia and the closest place I can buy
> is from Blue Lug online store in Tokyo. So, I have to pay for shipping and
> import tax.
>
> I mostly commute 90% and joy ride the rest. Wish and would one day will go
> for long road touring. I'm considering the following model.
>
> A. Homer Hilsen OR Sam Hillborne. From my research, their geometry are
> pretty much the same now. Except Hillborne is a bit heavier due to tube
> reinforcement. I'm leaning toward A. Homer Hilsen because its lighter and I
> can get one now.
>
> Also considering their Step Through. First choice would be Platypus then
> Clem Smith Jr..
>
> Which one would you recommend and thanks in advance.
>
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Re: [RBW] retrofitting for Rohloff speedhub

[Victor Hanson]

As far as retrofitting a frame, the stays that Riv uses are plenty beefy to
accept the Paragon seatstay splitter.   This is not cheap as you would also
need new drop outs, you might be better off with a Thron.

vtw

On Mon, Oct 9, 2023 at 9:04 AM Gerard McMahon  wrote:

> Friends, I'm wondering if anyone has tried retrofitting their Rivendell to
> use a Rohloff hub with a carbon belt drive instead of a chain. Am at the
> exploration stage.  TIA for any thoughts about this, especially if you've
> actually tried it out!  Jerry McMahon
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheel Builder

[Victor Hanson]

Gravy Wheels,

King Kog or '

Dustinthewind bicycle repair.

On Fri, Aug 11, 2023 at 7:04 AM Johnny Alien 
wrote:

> I don't know any midwest wheelbuilders to suggest but I can comment on the
> rear hub. I got some wheels build by Rich at Rivendell and we paired the
> Deore hubs with the Cliffhangers. He likes the hubs a bunch and they have
> been great for me. Very quiet. No need to spend a ton to get a really well
> made quiet hub.
>
> On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 9:13:50 AM UTC-4 Josh C wrote:
>
>> I could use a recommendation for a good wheel builder. I've used
>> prowheelbuilder.com in the past and have no complaints. Not sure how I
>> landed on them. Just curious if there is another business that I should be
>> looking into? I'm located in Indianapolis as well, and would prefer sending
>> business to a local or at least midwest company if possible.
>>
>> I'm looking for a set of 700c wheels for my Atlantis. I'm thinking I'll
>> do velocity cliffhangers with a SON up front and a nice rear hub. The rear
>> is not yet totally decided as I like quiet hubs but there are not many
>> options in rim brake, 36-40h hubs these days. I've got an onyx silent hub
>> on my crust and love it but they only go up to 32h and I'd prefer 36 or 40
>> as I'm a big dude. Which is why I'm thinking about a white industry (loud
>> as they come) rear hub in 36 or 40h.
>>
>> Anyway. I'd like to hear about your preferred wheel builders.
>>
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Re: [RBW] 26.0 bar in 25.4 clamp?

[Victor Hanson]

Not that much.  The sleeve helps with installation on centering the bar.
More importantly - don't forget to use some manner of interface whether it
be Pedros carbon paste or lubriplate 105.

VTW

On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 1:05 PM Chasen Smith 
wrote:

> how do you all make this happen?
>
> i have only successfully done it once and the toll was high- huge and
> noticeable cosmetic damage to the nitto dirt drop stem and to the sleeveish
> clamp bar of nitto noodle bars.
>
> basically i wanna run a 25.4 technomic stem with some wide nitto drops,
> without fudging up either too badly. i have noticed that while noodles have
> a sleeve and crust bars in 26.0 have more of a ramp, does this make a
> difference?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[Victor Hanson]

That's true, but Jobst, Peter Johnson, John Loomis, Tom Ritchey, Charlie
Cunningham, are all members of the Less Is More club.   130mm/135mm not
enough room for a cassette, adequate strength hub and disc rotor to all
fit.
vtw d

On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 10:42 AM Andrew Turner 
wrote:

> I think I'd agree that Jobst would remain an advocate for the rim
> brake...PROBABLY. But just to play devil's advocate, if Jobst was in his
> prime today, he wouldn't have been brought up with the old-school tech that
> we're familiar with him using, but I suppose being a *bit* of a
> retrogrouch could still be in his cards. To me, it would depend heavily on
> his opinion towards modern wheel design and if the 11 (or 12) speed hub
> would be a yay or nay. As I'm typing this, I'm reminded of Ritchey's
> comment on his use of his shifters, or lack-there-of, so I'm leaning
> towards him reverting to shorter free-hub bodies. Hell, maybe he'd have
> beat Rivendell to the modern-day 7 speed rear hub! Or perhaps, the Rene
> Herse rear mech would tickle his fancy. Tough call. He'd certainly ride
> whatever it is to the ground though.
>
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 11:51:37 AM UTC-6 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>>
>> Thank you for sharing.  The article was definitely worth the read.  A few
>> things stood out to me:
>>
>> - they were/are all *extremely *fit.
>> - fear was not a word in their vocabulary.
>> - what camaraderie (and competition) at the same time.
>> - the Higgins' couple rock.  Of course the stoker is doing all the work ;)
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>> (who's beloved stoker [Lori] continues to do all the work)
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 7:49:25 AM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm in the process of building a JB-inspired road bike but with a nod to
>>> current bicycle trends: mainly wider tires and spinnier gearing. As a
>>> result, it's made me wonder what he would be riding today if you spliced
>>> his timeline and moved his prime days to current day.
>>>
>>> Today's Radavist
>>> 
>>>  article
>>> really fueled that question so I'd like to open it up to this group who
>>> likely have much more insight into the man and his bike(s).
>>>
>>> What are we thinking? Rim brakes or disc? Carbon? Steel? Ti? I see a lot
>>> of similarities between him and Jan Heine as far as a desire for
>>> performance and reliability, so perhaps he'd lean towards a rando build?
>>>
>>> Take it away if you wish,
>>> Andrew
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Suntour XC Pro 28.6 MicroDrive FD

[Victor Hanson]

Hyperglide works tremendously good!!!

On Fri, Jan 27, 2023 at 11:26 JW  wrote:

> VTW,
>
> I saw the light and went with an XT M737, should be in early next week.
> Will report back with how it works!
>
> Jared
>
> On Friday, January 27, 2023 at 10:16:54 AM UTC-8 vhans...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Jard in SLO, CA,
>>
>> Why matey?   LX and XT hyperglide from the same era work way way way
>> betta.   I am never one to rain on anyone's parade but simply please don't
>> do it.  It's a great idea, in the 90's I definitely drank that kool-aid.
>>  But the bottom line here is it doesn't work as advertised.  Shimano works,
>> feels, and looks way way better. OR is this a wall hanger?
>>
>> VTW
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 12:51 PM JW  wrote:
>>
>>> Bump, still looking!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 24, 2023 at 9:27:39 AM UTC-8 JW wrote:
>>>
 Hey group,

 Looking for a Suntour XC Pro 28.6 MicroDrive FD for the compact triple
 on my Platypus.

 Please respond off list if you have something that fits the bill.

 Thanks :)

 Jared in SLO, CA

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>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Suntour XC Pro 28.6 MicroDrive FD

[Victor Hanson]

Jard in SLO, CA,

Why matey?   LX and XT hyperglide from the same era work way way way
betta.   I am never one to rain on anyone's parade but simply please don't
do it.  It's a great idea, in the 90's I definitely drank that kool-aid.
 But the bottom line here is it doesn't work as advertised.  Shimano works,
feels, and looks way way better. OR is this a wall hanger?

VTW

On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 12:51 PM JW  wrote:

> Bump, still looking!
>
> On Tuesday, January 24, 2023 at 9:27:39 AM UTC-8 JW wrote:
>
>> Hey group,
>>
>> Looking for a Suntour XC Pro 28.6 MicroDrive FD for the compact triple on
>> my Platypus.
>>
>> Please respond off list if you have something that fits the bill.
>>
>> Thanks :)
>>
>> Jared in SLO, CA
>>
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Re: [RBW] Rides With Charlie...

[Victor Hanson]

Corwin,

I have heard.  Thanks for all you do!

Victor



On Tue, Sep 20, 2022 at 10:35 AM Corwin Zechar  wrote:

> I have posted a couple of times that I spend a lot of time on tandems.
> Mostly with Charlie Cunningham. We have been riding for over a year. Our
> destinations have included Point Reyes, Petaluma, Mt Tam, Samuel P. Taylor
> park, Turtle Island, Sausalito, Richmond, Oakland, San Rafael and San
> Francisco.
>
> On a tandem, I spend most of my time thinking about traffic, the condition
> of my stoker, hills, stopping, etc. Not much time for pictures. I have
> considered getting a Go-Pro camera to mount on Charlie's helmet. Hasn't
> happened yet. So all my pictures are from rest stops, breaks en-route and
> vista points.
>
> Some of you have been clamoring to see the photos. Here is a link
> . Sorry there are not more.
> Charlie is a powerful stoker who rarely gets tired and never gets out of
> breath. We discovered Charlie's love of ice cream (especially chocolate)
> during our first ride. So almost every ride includes a stop at one of three
> purveyors of ice cream (Scoop in Fairfax, San Anselmo Gelato or Double
> Rainbow in San Rafael). Charlie can make a bowl of ice cream last upward of
> 30 minutes.
>
> Charlie is a renowned inventor and UC Berkeley trained mechanical
> engineer. So I can keep him entertained while he consumes his ice cream
> watching PBS engineering videos and episodes of Jay Leno's Garage.
>
> Hope you enjoy the photos.
>
>
> Corwin
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv asks: One bike forever, which one?

[Victor Hanson]

Unfortunately, this was sold 20 years ago

On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 5:49 PM Johnny Alien 
wrote:

> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/812079662293/
>
> On Sunday, April 3, 2022 at 11:59:34 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> Honestly a smaller wheelbase Platy kind of describes the Cheviot. I would
>> bet that the Cheviot would be very close to a step through AHH.
>>
>> On Sunday, April 3, 2022 at 10:21:25 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I so understand. A HomerPlat would be just the thing for you. I wonder
>>> if that would be descriptive enough to say to Grant on your order form!
>>> There’s a one-year pause on custom orders for now, but you can still get in
>>> the queue. I know I’m a terrible influence. I really want everyone to have
>>> the bike they truly want..
>>>
>>> L
>>>
>>> On Apr 2, 2022, at 8:23 PM, Roberta  wrote:
>>>
>>> My all time favorite Riv of the three I've owned is my A Homer Hilsen,
>>> by a narrow margin. It’s nearly perfect in every way —fit,size,ride
>>> quality—except for one thing:  It is not a step though frame.
>>>
>>>
>>> As I’m getting tired of throwing my leg over the saddle and I’m now
>>> commuting to work, I will choose the Platypus if I could only have one
>>> bike. I love the ride of the Platy, but my only issue with it is that it is
>>> too long to put on city bus bike rack or Amtrak.   Like many others here, I
>>> dream of a custom which slightly improves on a favorite ride to make it the
>>> perfect ride.
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>> City of Philadlelphia, PA
>>>
>>> On Saturday, April 2, 2022 at 9:22:50 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
>>> wrote:
>>>
 [image: 1154624B-CA95-4486-9D2B-97EF158D1790.jpeg][image:
 3F33C3A3-4976-4724-8514-59BFF118CA62.jpeg]

 If you follow Rivendell on Instagram, they asked their followers a fun
 question yesterday:

 You get one bike for the rest of your life - what frame material, and
 what style - mixte or normal?

 Attached is a screenshot of Grant’s quote and Betsy Streeter’s art.

 What a question! The frame material and style is easy - I love a
 Rivendell steel mixte, but only one? In the end, my #1 is my raspberry
 Platypus, but I’d cry real tears if parted from my Clem L or my shopping
 Platypus. Up until 2020 I was a one bike gal, but I am really savoring
 having a trio of bikes set up for different enjoyments. I chose the
 raspberry mixte as my One Bike Forever because it’s the most beautiful,
 does whatever I want it to, and has heaps of sentimental value.

 What would be your One Bike Forever? Do you have that bike or is it a
 dream bike? Do you have a photo?
 Leah

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Re: [RBW] Re: Removing Paul studs

[Victor Hanson]

Why?   The bushing is replaceable.


On Tue, Dec 28, 2021 at 19:12 Joe Bernard  wrote:

> I've never had to do it and apparently no one else here has, either, so
> I'll offer advice: Big pliers in heavy towel, grab that raised edge so
> you're off the smooth surface, squeeze gently and twist. Good luck!
>
> Joe Bernard
>
> On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 4:55:19 PM UTC-8 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>> What’s the correct way to remove the Paul cantilever boss pivots. I’ve
>> not yet exhausted my options but I’d like to error on the side of caution
>> and preserve the smooth surface.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Samuel
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Creaky Creaks?

[Victor Hanson]

First; was the bottom bracket faced and chased prior to BB installation?
That's 98% + the most of the time culprit.

Secondly, its the old school method of doing, assuming the BB was faced and
chased, is the fixed side snugged in with blue loctite?

Get both of those criteria right, you should have no sound.

VTW


On Tue, Dec 21, 2021 at 9:53 AM Philip Barrett 
wrote:

> Trying to diagnose a problem here, there's a creak when I apply a more
> powerful stroke on the Platypus. It sounds like it's coming from the bottom
> bracket area but of course, hard to tell when I'm riding. If I'm just
> spinning along it doesn't appear.
>
> So far I've checked the bottom bracket (tight & smooth), tightened up
> crank arms & chainring bolts and basically gone through the rest of the
> bike checking for anything loose but the problem persists & maybe even
> getting a little worse.
>
> Any ideas?
>
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Re: [RBW] Touring Front, Neo-Retro Back?

[Victor Hanson]

Sir,

The neo-retro is a very powerful brake.   You  can use is the rear, but it
will over power very thin seat stays, thus you need a brake booster.

On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 9:11 AM Artaud  wrote:

> I have that set up on my Romanceur.
> I find that the Neo Retros have better stopping power, but my heels would
> hit them if they were set up in the rear. The Tourings work well enough,
> though, if you prefer your front and rear sets to match.
>
> Denis, in NC
>
> Le vendredi 17 décembre 2021 à 11:41:17 UTC-5, Steven Sweedler a écrit :
>
>> I thought it was so the rear brakes would not scratch your  legs,  Steve
>>
>> On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 11:23 AM Matthew Williams <
>> matthewwil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> In this build, the brakes appear to be Paul touring cantis up front, and
>>> neo retros in the rear.
>>>
>>> I've seen this setup elsewhere, and I'm curious: what is the reason for
>>> this setup? What are its advantages and disadvantages? Is the setup easier
>>> to maintain, does it have better braking power, or is it just a personal
>>> preference?
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news/braxtons-riv-custom-pre-fenders-and-lights
>>>
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
>> --
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
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Re: [RBW] Pick your brains about spoke count?

[Victor Hanson]

Ben,

Simplistically, no.  There's an art to wheelbuilding don't forget that.
But at your size, think more about rim section, ie: wider rims equal
stronger wheels and better tire distribution.  I am not familiar with the
Atlas wheelset, but pay attention to rim width.

Either 32 3x or 36 3x should build good wheels.  Don't cheap out on spokes
DT or Wheelsmith db ('cuz they tension up better).   Brass nips always.

VTW

On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 5:39 AM Ben Mihovk  wrote:

> Hey all!
> Hypothetically...does an Atlas wheel set with 32 spokes for a 6'3" 210
> pound dude make sense if he's on an unloaded Sam and using it as an
> all-road bike? No singletrack/mountain biking, jumping, etc... Tires would
> be AT LEAST 40mm, possibly up to 44mm.
>
> OR...is it 36h or bust if you're a big fellow?
>
> Thanks,
> Ben in Omaha
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise polarizing

[Victor Hanson]

That's basically correct.  Its a bicycle with a backwards derailleur, get
use it, and using is the most important item!


On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 11:51 AM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Of course the whole issue with "counterintuitive" - which I raised earlier
> - goes out the window on a 1x. I had difficulty relearning which way the
> levers went on a 2-levers bike.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, July 13, 2021 at 11:10:11 AM UTC-7 Jim M. wrote:
>
>> The main advantage I find with Rapid Rise is that it shifts to a lower
>> gear much more easily when you're pedaling uphill, which I've found more
>> useful on steep mountain bike routes than with road biking. I've had an RR
>> derailleur on one bike and standard on another and in my experience I never
>> had a problem going back and forth. I echo Bill's comment that shifting is
>> pretty simple on a bike whichever direction you're going.
>>
>> jim m
>> walnut creek
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 13, 2021 at 10:54:20 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry, low-normal. RapidRise. That thing.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 13, 2021 at 10:43:29 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 I read Question 1 as info about high-normal derailers in general, not
 info on the one Grant is working on.



 On Tuesday, July 13, 2021 at 8:53:02 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Sam Perez asked three questions, but has only received answers to the
> third of the three.  I'll attempt to answer all three:
>
> 1.  Why is there so little info on rapid rise RD?
>
> I think there is too much.  Grant is genuinely excited about the
> project and I think he can't help but share a little.  If it were me I'd
> keep silent on it until it exists to buy.  It may never happen, so pushing
> info and then killing it will be a bummer.  Also, so many people are
> willing to bellyache about Rapid Rise, why invite all the bellyachers to
> badmouth a part that doesn't exist yet?
>
> 2.   why is it so polarizing?
>
> I don't know for sure, but I have a ton of ideas, too long a list to
> get into.  It is confusing to me how popular it is to badmouth the Rapid
> Rise RD.  I think it's the contrarian position now to say you like Rapid
> Rise.
>
> 3.  Any experience thoughts insights?
>
> Lots of experience, lots of thoughts.  Up to you if they qualify as
> insights.  I bought up a bunch of M760 rear derailers when they were going
> out of production.  That RD is on 4 of my 18 builds, and I have no trouble
> remembering how to shift any of my bikes.  Maybe it's because I'm a
> mechanic that I understand how things work.  Maybe it's because I have a
> lot of bikes and use them all a lot that I can remember how to use each of
> them, despite their differences.  Maybe it's because each of my builds is
> different and because I've really carefully executed each build that each
> bike for me has a "profile" that I have no problem recalling.  I imagine a
> lot of people prefer to use their bike without much thought.  For some
> people, a great compliment for a bicycle is that it 'disappears'.  For
> others, it's something like "I don't want to be bothered remembering that
> backwards shifting.  I just want to ride my bike"
>
> I think shifting gears on a bicycle is dead-simple no matter what you
> use.  I think getting wrapped around the axle between different shifting
> approaches is kind of crazy.  It's like handwringing about tying your
> shoes, because slip-ons are so much simpler.  It's all simple.  Use what
> you want to use and enjoy your ride!
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Monday, July 12, 2021 at 10:08:30 PM UTC-7 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> Hey guys,
>> Why is there so little info on rapid rise RD and why is it so
>> polarizing. Sources include bike snob grants blog and random internet
>> sources. Takeaways were finicky and needing frequent adjustment but also
>> great concept and easy down shifting. Any experience thoughts insights?
>>
>> Thanks
>
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Re: [RBW] Convert to Tubeless?

[Victor Hanson]

A couple of quid pro quos’ - from experience:

1)  do not convert a tire - purchase tubeless ready or ust tires

2) fit the tire to the rim and inflate (best with a compressor. ) The tire
will only hold air a couple of hrs but more importantly now you check the
fit

3). More tape is not good - once around and overlap 75-90mm

That’s about it  Keep in mind even the best mechanics get the goo all over
the place from time to time.

Vtw

On Thu, Mar 4, 2021 at 20:47 Philip Barrett 
wrote:

> Okey dokey folks - I'm thinking I'd like to convert my Clem Smith (650b)
> to tubeless. Reason being that my neighborhood and favorite route to the
> trails is pretty much old school industrial and I'm constantly fighting
> punctures from debris. Since the Alex rims look to support a tubeless set
> up it seems like I'll need the following;
>
>- tubeless compatible tires
>- rim tape (Gorilla)
>- tubeless valve stems
>- tire sealant
>
> I have done the same conversion on a dirt motorcycle so familiar with the
> concept and install procedures but...
>
> What am I missing? Any caveats? Am I mad to attempt this? Plus any other
> advice would be most welcome.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 630 wheel size

[Victor Hanson]

Sam,

Be careful, remember its a 4mm radius when replacing 700c with 27 1/4"
(American size from the 10 spd craze in the 70's.)  Going the other way
placing 700c wheels on a 27 1/4"  frame is no problem, use a brake with
greater reach.  BUT WHY?

VTW

On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 11:09 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> 630mm is the actual diameter of the rim nominally known as 27", you see it
> on a lot of '70s 10-speeds and most of those use centerpulls. 622 is what
> we call 700c and would be the closest size you could try and possibly get
> the brake pads to reach.
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 7:51:57 PM UTC-8 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> I am a little confused on what a 630 wheel size is and if the frame hase
>> center pull brakes and is designed around such a size is it convertible to
>> 650 b or 700 or 26?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 630 wheel size

[Victor Hanson]

Eric yes 27 1/4 was the most popular size think Schwinn Varsity ect.
630mm refers to the bead seat diameter.

Victor

On Wed, Nov 18, 2020 at 07:50 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> 630mm is the same as 27-inch? See this:
>
> https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/rims/630.html
>
> –Eric N
>
>
> On Nov 17, 2020, at 11:09 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> 630mm is the actual diameter of the rim nominally known as 27", you see
> it on a lot of '70s 10-speeds and most of those use centerpulls. 622 is
> what we call 700c and would be the closest size you could try and possibly
> get the brake pads to reach.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 7:51:57 PM UTC-8 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> I am a little confused on what a 630 wheel size is and if the frame hase
>> center pull brakes and is designed around such a size is it convertible to
>> 650 b or 700 or 26?
>>
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Re: [RBW] 104/64bcd Crank Question

[Victor Hanson]

Brian,

There is..I have first hand experience.You cannot mix and match
Shimano 10spd chainrings.  Thus, if you a 38 am for the upper ring you
must  use a 22 or 24(?) am for the small ring.   So on and forth.   If you
mix and match, it will fit together but you will throw the chain between
the chain rings.

This is one advantage of 110mm spiders you can mix and match to your hearts
content.   SImilar gearing advantages are achieved through 30/32/34
chainrings and the wide range cassettes now available.   This why SRAM NX
Eagle is so popular.  Have fun.

VTW

On Wed, Oct 21, 2020 at 8:42 AM Coal Bee Rye Anne <
lionsrugbyalu...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm curious whether anyone could confirm or deny if all 104/64bcd cranks
> are created equal with middle/outer chainring compatibility or whether
> there are possibly some variances in spider/shelf design?
>
> The reason I ask... and this is purely academic at this time as I've no
> real need/time/expense to fully pursue any projects right now... is that I
> just now became aware of a spec/design feature of my Deore LX FC-M571
> Octalink triple crank which actually has a different shelf height on the
> middle and outer part of the 104bcd spider.
>
> I came to this realization after recently cleaning and mocking up my spare
> crank for a potential 2021 build.  I originally acquired this crank used as
> a 22-32-44 triple on a hand me down frame plus parts and turned it into a
> 32t bashguard sandwiched 1x crank for a while and then had picked up a
> 64bcd 32t inner ring (see example in the link below) and temporarily set it
> up as a 32t-32t-guard while experimenting with some chainline stuff on a
> previous project.
>
> It never occurred to me before that 104bcd were unlike most 110bcd or
> 130bcd cranks I have with matching shelf height/spacing on the inner(middle
> if a triple)& outer ring positions.  My line of thinking was that if the
> 64bcd 32t position proved to offer better overall alignment than the middle
> 104mm 32t position I could just shift the bashring to the middle position
> with some single stack bolts.  Plus it gives me the option of a future
> 32-48t double for some more road oriented riding but  I was rather
> surprised to realize the chainguard and OEM outer 44t rings do not
> actually fit the middle 104bcd position because there's shallower spacing
> on the shelf to bolt hole on the inside and they'd need to be filed to fit.
>
> This realization had me further wondering about the 48t ring noted as
> being compatible with my exact 64bcd 32t inner ring for a 2x double crank.
> Anywhere I look I only find 48t SRAM/Truvativ rings spec'd as outers and/or
> for triples with 104bcd (any 48t doubles I've found are a different BCD
> altogether.)
>
> I'll admit my search hasn't been overly thorough, and possibly even more
> confusing with the same ring often being labeled as 'SRAM in Truvativ
> packaging' but for a 32t ring that everywhere I find it clearly states 'for
> use with 48t' I've yet to find the complementary 48t 'for use with 32t'
> that would specifically fit as a middle 104bcd.
>
> My moderate investment in this still useful 104/64bcd crank with spare
> BB-ES51 bottom brackets for both 68mm and 73mm shells and Riv's recent
> release of the 104/64bcd Silver crank is mostly what has me wondering...
>
>
> https://planetcyclery.com/sram-32-tooth-64mm-bcd-aluminum-chainring-gray-use-with-48t?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuL_8BRCXARIsAGiC51Cx5-QnwJ5GwH4cASMAgEDJ8yy9wxwkgIGS-zdE3hVNrWIPDNsfh9caAvpcEALw_wcB
>
> You could certainly argue that if I'm ultimately after a narrower 1x
> chainline and/or 32t/40something double for pavement usage I'd be better
> off with a narrower q crank, and you'd generally be correct.  I do also
> have another option with a 110 crank and rings that should be sufficient
> but just more or less trying to figure out the possibilities and details
> I've apparently overlooked all these years on 104bcd.
>
> Thanks,
> Brian Cole
> Lawrenceville NJ
>
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[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

[Victor Hanson]

Please expand?   I have used travel agents for years, even replaced cables 
on them..   I have had no issues. 

VTW

On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 9:34:19 AM UTC-7 fugd...@gmail.com wrote:

> There are real problems with Travel Agents, including safety. I just 
> changed levers.
>
> On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 8:26:56 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote:
>
>> i'm not a pro mechanic by any means but i've used the standard shimano 
>> lever on a tektro canti front and shimano v brake rear and didn't really 
>> have beef with the stopping power (casual use, not performance at all, in 
>> NYC)
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, October 16, 2020 at 5:18:09 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone ever use a Canti brake up front and V-brake in the back? I know 
>>> I'd need different pull levers, which complicates things, but I've noticed 
>>> up front, the V-brake can sometimes be a little more than I need, it's 
>>> great in the back though. I have two sets of Paul neo-retro canti's sitting 
>>> around and was thinking the combination might be something weird worth 
>>> looking into.
>>> Thx! 
>>> Scott
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] V-Brake and Canti...

[Victor Hanson]

scott,

If you have ‘short pull levers’ Problem Slovers makes essentially a cam to
get the extra cable pull for v brakes.  However,  Patrick raises a better
point, why? In the first place,  with less than 42mm tire width cantilevers
set up properly stop plenty good

Vtw


On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 14:44 greenteadrinkers 
wrote:

> With the v-brake up front, I tend to get this fork vibration I've never
> really experienced with a cantilever. The headset is nice and tight and
> nothing else seems to be problematic, just thinking if that vibration might
> be due to the different stopping power of v brakes, would the canti up
> front help reduce fork vibration and over more subtle braking modulation?
> Hopefully, this makes sense.
>
> On Friday, October 16, 2020 at 5:32:18 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> What would you hope to gain by this sort of combination? Is it that
>> you've found cantilevers less effective in the rear than desired?
>>
>> I've found this, at least using drop bar levers -- probably due to my
>> ineptitude in installing them; but I've also found that a good canti design
>> -- I like "high profile" arms -- properly set up gives good braking front
>> and rear; as I never get tired of saying but I'm sure you get tired of
>> hearing, the best brakes of all the very many types I've used over the
>> years were the IRD wide-profile cantilevers with salmon pads set up by
>> Rivendell staff on the drop-bar'd Sam Hillborne I bought back circa 2013 or
>> so -- nothing better both for power, feel, and modulation; really
>> wonderful.
>>
>> Short answer: "No, and I don't see why it *would* be worth looking
>> into." But please explain your purpose, maybe there is a good reason to do
>> this.
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 3:18 PM greenteadrinkers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone ever use a Canti brake up front and V-brake in the back? I know
>>> I'd need different pull levers, which complicates things, but I've noticed
>>> up front, the V-brake can sometimes be a little more than I need, it's
>>> great in the back though. I have two sets of Paul neo-retro canti's sitting
>>> around and was thinking the combination might be something weird worth
>>> looking into.
>>> Thx!
>>> Scott
>>>
>>> --
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>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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Re: [RBW] V-Brake and Canti...

[Victor Hanson]

This is (i think) is easy.   1) are your v-brake bushings too loose.  2)
brake boosters are ugly but the bees’ knees for stopping power.  $35 i know
but with careful installation they work great.

Victor

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 14:18 greenteadrinkers 
wrote:

> Anyone ever use a Canti brake up front and V-brake in the back? I know I'd
> need different pull levers, which complicates things, but I've noticed up
> front, the V-brake can sometimes be a little more than I need, it's great
> in the back though. I have two sets of Paul neo-retro canti's sitting
> around and was thinking the combination might be something weird worth
> looking into.
> Thx!
> Scott
>
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Re: [RBW] Advice on Onyx Hubs

[Victor Hanson]

I'd say either.  Much like the early days of Phil Wood, Onyx has an
impeccable reputation for quality.   Greater question why Onyx?  If  you
can afford it great, but the DT Swiss, with the 36t ratchet assembly is
$350 and represents stellar value.

VTW

On Tue, Sep 29, 2020 at 9:07 AM Elijah Bernstein-Cooper <
e.bernsteincoo...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I would like to build a rear wheel for my 2020 Atlantis with an Onyx hub.
> I am debating between their newer Vesper model and older model. My priority
> is a durability over weight, within reason.
>
> Onyx has a new model out, Vesper, which is apparently lighter than their
> older model by 200g. However I don't mind a little extra weight and I'd
> prefer to have a more sturdy hub.
>
> Does anyone have insight into if the reduced weight in the newer Vesper
> model sacrificed any durability?
>
> Vesper:
> https://onyxrp.com/store/mtb-hubs/onyx-vesper-mtb-cl-hg-11spd-135-qr-rear-hub/
> Older model:
> https://onyxrp.com/store/mtb-hubs/mtb-cl-hg-qr/mtb-cl-hg-135-qr/
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice on Onyx Hubs

[Victor Hanson]

Bill,

If that's the XT series I absolutely agree, the bearings are bomber and you
cannot run it into the ground.
VTW

On Tue, Sep 29, 2020 at 11:19 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I can't help with the requested advice, but I can say I would regard a
> $450-$500 rear hub an unnecessary extravagance on a 2020 Atlantis.  I'd buy
> a FH-M737, unless I had money burning a hole in my pocket.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Tuesday, September 29, 2020 at 9:07:14 AM UTC-7 Elijah Bernstein-Cooper
> wrote:
>
>> I would like to build a rear wheel for my 2020 Atlantis with an Onyx hub.
>> I am debating between their newer Vesper model and older model. My priority
>> is a durability over weight, within reason.
>>
>> Onyx has a new model out, Vesper, which is apparently lighter than their
>> older model by 200g. However I don't mind a little extra weight and I'd
>> prefer to have a more sturdy hub.
>>
>> Does anyone have insight into if the reduced weight in the newer Vesper
>> model sacrificed any durability?
>>
>> Vesper:
>> https://onyxrp.com/store/mtb-hubs/onyx-vesper-mtb-cl-hg-11spd-135-qr-rear-hub/
>> Older model:
>> https://onyxrp.com/store/mtb-hubs/mtb-cl-hg-qr/mtb-cl-hg-135-qr/
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Comments on 1x12'd MIT Atlanti Or Other Riv's?

[Victor Hanson]

I believe DT Swiss can custom configure that hub.  QR, 10mm assumed, xd
driver, 135 old.

VTW

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 2:53 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Justin
>
> White Industries doesn't have any model listed on their site that is
> 135mm, QR, with an XD driver.  I called White and left a message asking
> exactly that.  I assume it would be the MI5 that would need to take a XD
> driver.  If they can sell that, that's probably the one I would buy
>
> I don't see any DT Swiss model that's 135mm QR with an XD driver.  That
> would be a decent fallback if White Industries didn't offer something.
>
> Bill
>
> On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 2:15:29 PM UTC-8, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>>
>> Bill-
>> There are many rear hubs spaces at 135 that can take an XD driver. White
>> Industries t11 is 130 and reputedly has an XD driver.
>> https://www.whiteind.com/t11
>> Or any number of DTSwiss: (centerlock makes a decent rim braked hub)
>> https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/hubs-rws/hubs/
>>
>> Any reason those options won’t work?
>> -J
>>
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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam angled dropouts - first principles?

[Victor Hanson]

Philip,

I would not go for the disk brake tab.  I my limited experience it was
primarily a bad idea to "Rube Goldberg" the mounting post and caliper.   I
also equate the sliding disc mounts in this category.  Either go for disk
brakes or rims brakes, if you do booth vertical drop outs.  Its geared at
any rate.

VTW

On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 4:41 PM Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> My reasons for choosing sliders are mostly to do with future setups still
> looking planful. I do like the Matt-Chester-like simplicity of track ends,
> but this bike is primarily a geared bike. A vertical dropout and a
> derailleur hanger are nice to have for a geared bike. If I want to run
> singlespeed or fixed, I can swap the right insert to one with no derailleur
> hanger. In the unlikely event I want to run disk brakes, I can remove the
> canti bosses and install a slider with a disk brake tab. The slider also
> allows me to move the tire away from the seat tube and bridges when I want
> to install fenders. I've had an eccentric BB, and it was fine, but required
> a dedicated shell, the new owner had it creak, and I couldn't adjust tire
> clearance or remove the derailleur hanger.
>
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 2:57:33 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> +1 for this question; I also am thinking of a custom for a single-cog
>> hub, and had thought of angled track ends versus long dropouts.
>>
>> Phiipl: Why sliding dropouts instead of long horizontals or track ends?
>> Or than an eccentric bb, for that matter?
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 3:53 PM Philip Williamson 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm having a custom bike built, and it will have slider dropouts for
>>> singlespeed use.
>>> I want the builder to angle the dropouts like my Quickbeam's, so I can
>>> change the gears without adjusting the brake shoe height or angle.
>>>
>>> The Quickbeam dropouts are angled ~20* relative to the ground, and about
>>> 10* relative to the stay.
>>> The dropout slot angle ALSO looks like it is parallel to the brake
>>> shoes. To my mind, this is the key fact. Is it?
>>>
>>> The new bike's seat stay angle is more acute than the QB's, and its BB
>>> is lower. Do the relative angles not really matter, as long as the dropout
>>> slot is parallel to the brake shoe angle?
>>>
>>> Philip
>>> Santa Rosa, CA
>>>
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>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> **
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And
>> though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the
>> hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
>> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
>> ---
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
>> Other professional writing services
>> Expensive! But good.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Teach me about sealant in tubes?

[Victor Hanson]

IMHO not worth it.   The time used to get sealant in tubes is royal pita.
You would be better going with a tubeless ready tire and tire sauce.   As I
have stated before, you ride a lot, experiment with making your own,, if
you ride less than 100 miles simply use one of the many available sealants.
VTW


On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 9:30 AM Brett Callahan 
wrote:

> Thanks for the notes, very helpful. Did you remove the valve cores from
> another set of tubes, or are they available as a part on their own?
>
> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 9:22:33 AM UTC-8, DarinM wrote:
>>
>> I have used sealant in tubes for 6-8 months. I use standard Stan's
>> sealant in Schwalbe tubes for 26x54 and 650bx42 tires and have not had a
>> flat I had to stop and deal with since starting. The tubes have removable
>> cores, which I remove and then use the Stan's injector to add 2-3oz. I
>> think I topped them off once before a tour as a precaution.
>>
>> I've been using sealant with Compass standard and various Schwalbe,
>> including the Liteskin casing which is very thin. I think it's been pretty
>> effective.
>>
>> I've noticed that the sealant is still very much liquid when handling the
>> tube while changing tires, so longevity hasn't been an issue for me. I have
>> had to swap valve cores on one set of tubes when pumping started taking a
>> little too much effort.
>>
>> Darin
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 7:53:44 AM UTC-8, Brett Callahan wrote:
>>>
>>> Friends, I know it has been discussed here before, but I'm awful with
>>> the Google Groups search function. Would anyone be willing to share about
>>> their experience using Stan's or Orange Seal in tubes?
>>>
>>> I've got a set of Compass tires that I'd like to ride, but it seems they
>>> always have a slow leak from a small puncture. From what I gather, sealant
>>> in the tubes may help combat that.
>>>
>>> Specific questions are: which sealant do you use? Which tubes do you
>>> pair it with? With a tube with a removable valve core, do I need to do
>>> anything specific to get it in, or just up end the bottle? How much do you
>>> put in in a go?
>>>
>>> Thanks for any willing to share their knowledge. I appreciate the brain
>>> trust that is this group.
>>>
>>> Brett, PDX
>>>
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[RBW] Re: New Wavie Bar Photos

[Victor Hanson]

Straight up rip off of Sycip's JNJ bar and the On-one Mary..


On Wednesday, April 18, 2018 at 5:09:31 PM UTC-7, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:
>
>
> After hearing about the upcoming Wavie handlebars from Bill Lindsay in this 
> post 
> , I 
> took his suggestion to ask Riv if they would send some photos ahead of the 
> catalog arrival. Vince came through, and also mentioned that the bars are 
> 66 cm wide with a 25.4 mm diameter at the clamp, and they should arrive at 
> Rivendell next month in their Nitto shipment. So (with Vince's permission), 
> here they are. They look great!
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Bob E
>
> Cranford, New Jersey
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubeless questions

[Victor Hanson]

No, the early tubeless valves did not have removable cores.

VTW


On Mon, Jan 28, 2019 at 9:06 AM Kainalu V.  wrote:

> There's such a thing as non removable valve cores on tubeless valves?! Or
> you're talking tubes? And the "goo" is latex, which made me flash back to
> those pesky latex tubes as a possible ultimate tube for the latex gooing,
> that they themselves being latex would be good for the goo's adhesion, and
> that they're so stretchy (at least when they're fresh). I still think it
> might work well with time, once the oozing of the goo subsided, if it can
> subside that is...
> -Kai
> BKNY
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubeless questions

[Victor Hanson]

Those are the valves.   I replace valves every two to three year and when I
finally purchased new ones i got the removable core.  At least for me. it
makes a huge difference in the goo application department.

On a side rant, why do people still even consider latex tubes..I
figured out in the late eighties those were no good.

VTW

On Wed, Jan 23, 2019 at 8:01 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I disagree that simply having to replenish goo every few months is
> sufficient reason to avoid tubeless (note that tubes seem to hold sealants
> without evaporation almost as well as the original bottles, so periodic
> replenishment is not a problem with tubes). In hot and dry (summer down to
> 5% and 100F) NM I have to replace OS regular formula every 3 months, but
> sealant, far from being impractical, is the sole means by which I can ride
> my tires (very light and supple Big Ones) in our terrain.
>
> I mean to try OS's "extended formula" but don't suppose I'll be able to
> extend useful periods beyond 6 months and very possibly not even that.
>
> Can you elaborate further on the Stan's valves? I use regular removable
> core valves on all my wheels (tubes included) but do these have even
> further advantages? In particular, do they avoid clogging the way other
> removable cores don't?
>
> On Tue, Jan 22, 2019 at 11:14 AM Victor Hanson 
> wrote:
>
>> You are not a good candidate for tubeless, you have to replenish the goo
>> every six months considering your use.
>>
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[RBW] Re: Tubeless questions

[Victor Hanson]

You are not a good candidate for tubeless, you have to replenish the goo 
every six months considering your use.  

A couple of tips.   The new valve cores form Stan's (and others) work 
fricken excellent.  $20 I know, but now no more getting tubeless goo all 
over trying to get it in the tyre.  

Stan's tape works great, ghetto tubeless is good also, as long as you use 
an UST or tubeless ready tyre. 

Don't make your own tubeless goo.  Yes it can be done, however, I can 
attest to the number of catastrophic messes I have had to clean up in my 
work space also.   If I rode 300 miles a week, great you ride enough, make 
your own goo.  Any less than 100 a week, buy Stan's (or whatever) and save 
the headache. 

VTW

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