[RBW] Re: Found Upright riding worse than drops riding.

[Nick Payne]

Over the past few years I've converted all my wife's bikes to flat bars. 
These days she rides about 15000km/year, and she used to race on drop bars, 
but as someone with pretty small hands she prefers the shifting and braking 
available with flat bar levers and shifters. She quite happily rides 200km 
Audax events without complaining about either backside or hands. Here's one 
of her bikes - photo taken while I was building it up. BBB grips and 
barends and Sella Italia Ldy saddles are her favourites. 



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Re: [RBW] "Winter" clothing help

[Conway Bennett]

I'd like to put it out there that anyone here who thinks they want to go the 
Patagonia route I will send you a 40% friends and family discount.  I've worked 
there for 8 years and have been a year round bike commuter just as long, and I 
think the nano air works in the widest range of temperature and provides just 
enough wind protection without creating a vapor barrier.  On really cold days I 
wear an R1 fleece underneath.  A Houdini will breaker is invaluable when you 
need it and I  have one the lives in my bar bag.  Admittedly I read thread 
early on then it got too long so maybe I reiterated things that have been said. 
 I really just want to get great people with great bikes great gear so they 
keep riding.  

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[RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[C.J. Filip]

Good discussion!

To provide further data point for your collective qualitative consideration:
40x17 in the rolling Palouse of N. Idaho with 40x19 option.  My rides 
consist of spirited solo jaunts, usually connecting bits of trail with 
primarily gravel roads.
  

On Sunday, December 10, 2017 at 11:18:16 PM UTC-8, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> If i ever ss i hope twill be on a Qbeam.
> I will try the 40x18stock option.

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[RBW] Re: WTT: Jones 2.5 SG + stem combo for Bosco + Tallux

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Hi Ash,

Sent a PM the other day but I'm still figuring out this whole google group 
thing and not completely sure whether it even went through.  Was sent on 
mobile but while in "desktop" mode.

In case you didn't get it:

I've been curious to try a Jones bar and I have a 55cm Cromo Bosco I'd 
happily trade. I already traded away the 12cm Tallux that also came with my 
Clem, however.  In lieu of the Tallux I have a different NOS Nitto stem I 
briefly used with the Bosco before eventually swapping them all out for a 
Chocomoose.  It's a 13cm cromo tig'd riser stem similar to the HiRiser 
currently sold by Riv but with a shorter quill (and maybe slightly 
different angle.)  I had initially swapped the Tallux out to use it on a 
different frame since I didn't really need the long quill length on the 
Clem in combination with the rise of the Bosco and the 13cm tig'd stem 
still got the bars to about the same spot as the Tallux with it's 
rise/reach.

Should I decide to revert back to Bosco I'll want to go with the wider 
58 bullmoose version instead so this one is yours, if still interested in a 
trade.  If not interested (whether due to the stem being a dealbreaker or 
because you already worked something else out) that's cool too but please 
let me know...  I may still have another use for the Bosco but before 
installing anything I wanted to be sure whether or not you were still 
looking for a trade.

Pics available upon request.  The Bosco is still installed on the Nitto 
riser stem with bartape and hoods of old road levers in the forward 
position.

Thanks,

Brian Cole
Lawrenceville, NJ


 

On Friday, December 8, 2017 at 3:00:12 PM UTC-5, Ash [who works to bike] 
wrote:

> Its been a few weeks since I changed my handlebar.  Feels like time to try 
> the next one in my list :)
>
> I have this setup:
> - Jones SG 2.5
> - VO Threadless Stem Adaptor 
> - Dimension Threadless Stem 31.8/ 70mm/125 deg
>
> All are new.  I have done couple of rides (less than 30 miles)
>
> I'd like to exchange all these for your Bosco/Tallux combo.
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini pics with saddle height? - 61cm and 57cm frames?

[Jeremy Till]

I rode the 61cm Roadini demo at Riv HQ a few weeks ago.  No pictures 
(sorry!) but I did set the saddle right right around 80cm, which is my 
preferred.  It looked like it would be perfect for a level saddle-bars 
relationship, you probably wouldn't even have to use a Technomic.  There 
was a technomic on the demo set well above my saddle height but I didn't 
mess with it, when in Rome...  It was a wonderfully riding bike and had me 
pining, but then again, pretty much any bike there will do that for me.  

On Friday, December 8, 2017 at 12:09:01 PM UTC-8, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> I do tend to agree... And your custom and Legolas are set-up just 
> perfectly to my eyes.  Not that I am set on the Roadini, but I know some of 
> the pictures make it look like the head tube allows the bars to end up 
> pretty high by design, a great thing, at least within reason.  That said, I 
> would not want to have to completely slam the stem on a 61 to get the bars 
> level or maybe just slightly below saddle height.  Someone here once said 
> that they were completely confident in Riv's sizing recommendations as long 
> as they fell near the middle of those recommendations and I do see the 
> wisdom of that.  
>
> Lum Gim Fong's suggestion about asking someone at RBW to take a picture of 
> a 61cm Roadini with a saddle height set to 78-79 and level bars is a good 
> idea.  
>
> I will have a little credit built up at some point (with Riv), so 
> potential projects are being considered.  I suspect the potential project 
> will take a different turn but a good and less-slow road bike would be a 
> worthy addition to my more usual utility and load carrying builds.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Friday, December 8, 2017 at 12:32:15 PM UTC-6, Mojo wrote:
>>
>> Bob, I too have a 89cm PBH. I cannot imagine why we would choose to ride 
>> a 57cm. When I ordered a custom road frame, Grant put me on a 61.5cm. Here 
>> it is many years ago with the handlebars at saddle height. 
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/6897752730/in/album-72157607471577085/
>> When I bought a Legolas, I chose a 62cm frame.  
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5598979996/in/album-72157607471577085/
>> A 60cm Quickbeam looks like this
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/2760281945/in/album-72157607471577085/
>> A 58cm frame with a completely flat top tube but a 2cm head tube 
>> extension looks like this. 
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5265783630/in/album-72157607471577085/
>>
>> Joe in GJT
>>
>>
>> On Friday, December 8, 2017 at 10:31:07 AM UTC-7, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>>
>>> I am right at the transition point between the 57cm and 61cm Roadini's 
>>> (PBH 89cm, seat height 78-79 depending on shoes).
>>>
>>> Can someone point me to pictures of a 61cm Roadini that has the saddle 
>>> height (as pictured) listed?  I suppose the same goes for pictures of a 
>>> 57cm version, though I have seen some pictures posted and those have been 
>>> helpful.  
>>>
>>> I tend to choose and ride frames on the larger side of any 
>>> recommendations, as I am used to it and also prefer a mostly level 
>>> saddle-to-bars relationship without being crazy with seat post or stem. 
>>>  That said, the relatively higher head tube on the Roadini has me thinking. 
>>>
>>> I will go back and study the geometry diagrams again but any pictures of 
>>> builds would be helpful.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any and all help,
>>>
>>> Bob Lovejoy
>>> Galesburg, IL
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Grocery Run - No Trailer Test

[Tim D]

Fantastic!
That looks like a great grocery getter set up, but maybe a little heavy in 
front? Maybe?

What's the brand/model of the bags in the front basket? They look like they 
might work really well for me when I start commuting to work again next 
year.


On Sunday, December 10, 2017 at 9:35:06 PM UTC-7, J Imler wrote:
>
> Click here 
> 
>  
> if you are inclined. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem L question

[Belopsky]

For everyone's knowledge:

It's a 31.8 clamp size. Ended up using my Microshift $12 derailleur.

Also, 116 link chain is not enough for the stock setup, but it'll do for 
now. 118 would have been perfect

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[RBW] Re: WTT: Jones 2.5 SG + stem combo for Bosco + Tallux

[Joe Bernard]

I recommend the 13cm stem. Boscos reach WAY back. 

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Jeremy Till]

I guess it depends on the frame but I think the concern about chainring 
clearance on a 130mm spaced frame is overstated.  I used to run a Salsa 
Casseroll as a fixed gear, and it had 130mm hub spacing.  A 42t chainring 
at the appropriate chainline for a track hub (~42mm) never had any 
clearance issues.  

On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>
> I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?
>
> I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking as 
> you and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.
>
> But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. If 
> you plan to use say, a 42 or 44 chainring you might have trouble with 
> chainstay clearance.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[EasyRider]

I agree, how much leeway one has on either side of about a 40t chainring is 
likely going depend the frame.

I used a 120mm hub with spacers in a 1988 Trek frame that probably had 
126mm dropouts, but a 40t was as big as I could go. But that makes sense; 
the bike was originally spec'd with a 40t inner ring on a double. It wasn't 
designed for someone to easily convert to singlespeed 15 years later.

The Casseroll on the other hand, was. The stock singlespeed version used a 
130mm Surly hub. I assume that hub, and some thoughtful chainstay design 
explains how they were able to get a 48t ring on it. 
http://salsacycles.com/files/pages/Casseroll_Single.pdf


On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 10:57:39 AM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> I guess it depends on the frame but I think the concern about chainring 
> clearance on a 130mm spaced frame is overstated.  I used to run a Salsa 
> Casseroll as a fixed gear, and it had 130mm hub spacing.  A 42t chainring 
> at the appropriate chainline for a track hub (~42mm) never had any 
> clearance issues.  
>
> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?
>>
>> I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking as 
>> you and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.
>>
>> But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. 
>> If you plan to use say, a 42 or 44 chainring you might have trouble with 
>> chainstay clearance.
>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: Willow Chainring Triple Set - 110/74 - 49/37/25 - $30

[David B]

I've been trying to back off my Willow chainring sales pitch lately. 
Hopefully haven't been bugging anyone too badly.
Anyways, I'm buying a new wheelset/tires for my Redwood, and need to offset 
some of that cost...

Offering sets of chainrings for 110/74 bcd cranksets for $30 plus shipping.
This is set is a champagne anodized tint - plays nicely with silver cranks. 
Shipping is a flat $7 per order.

If you'd like a set, go to following link in my webstore: 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/willow-110-74-special-49-37-25-triple-chainring-set
Checkout uses Paypal.

Questions? Constructive comments? Contact offlist.
Thanks,
David
River Grove, IL

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[RBW] Re: Fixed Gear Snow Ride

[Ty Smith]

Beautifully written and photographed. "Poetic," comes to mind. 

Thanks for taking me there with you. I appreciate this especially as  for 
the last six months I'm dealing with some chronic pain issues, so longish 
rides (thought not all rides!) are out for me. I miss being out in nature 
and your prose and pictures put me right in the saddle.

"Grin" indeed.

Ty

On Friday, December 8, 2017 at 4:09:09 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> In which the fixie flywheel dramatically increases traction both up and 
> down snowpack and slicksnow and I get out farther than ever under 
> conditions that would have frozen my derailer and that did freeze my front 
> brake.
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/rampart-fixed-gear-snow-ride 
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[Patrick Moore]

What tires do you all commonly use on the QB? A rough guesstimate using
Jim's trail calculator says that a 35-to-42 (actual) mm tire, the width I
assume you'd choose for the QB, gives a wheel diameter of 27.5" to 28", so
a 40 X 18 would give you a 61-62 inch gear, which is certainly usable, but
IME rather low for all 'round pavement and dirt road riding -- ie, the sort
of riding you'd be likely to do on a 35 mm or 42 mm tire.

I started off riding fixed/ss with a 63" gear, and rather quickly ramped it
up to 67/8" and then to 70/71" for commuting and grocery getting; in fact,
I found 63" quite nice for my Monocog 29er. IME, the 65 to 70 gi range is a
good one for all rounder riding, though I use a slightly higher gear for
the gofast. Note that 70" and 76" do very well in firm dirt with gradual
inclines.

On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 12:18 AM, lum gim fong 
wrote:

> If i ever ss i hope twill be on a Qbeam.
> I will try the 40x18stock option.
>
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Re: [RBW] Found Upright riding worse than drops riding.

[Patrick Moore]

I'd still like to learn more about the effect and benefit of the extremely
slack seat tube angles on such bikes as omafietses and the DL-1. Perhaps
these allow a position that "combines" the effects of both high/near bar
and "leaning"?

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[RBW] Re: Found Upright riding worse than drops riding.

[Grant @ Rivendell]

My eye-opening into the possibilities of uprights, and swept-back ones at 
that, came when I first talked to Freddie Hoffman, who rode 50,000 miles a 
year all thru the eighties on sweptback uprights (sbu?). A similar 
eye-opening came 21 years ago, when a customer who lives in Toronto, Jim 
Skinner, got a custom early on, and mentioned that he rode 10,000 miles a 
year in Birkenstocks--after years of normal cycling shoes.   It still comes 
down to different strokes--that's always the final word on anything like 
this. I can say with a huge degree of certainty that thousands of our 
customers have rediscovered riding's fun again after switching to SBU, but 
those are riders who weren't digging the drops. As long as the drops are in 
the right vertical spot, they'll be fine--they'll just be a curvy ram's 
horn bar in the right place for you. Most people who walk and run 
ergonomically correct erect and even sit tall  find a more upright pedaling 
position comfortable, but others like a lean. Bikes are so neat because you 
can customize your own. 

On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 7:23:46 AM UTC-8, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> So I converted the Bleriot to upright so I could ride wifespeeds without 
> hand discomfort  that comes with riding that slow for an entire ride on 
> drops. 
>
>  What I have found, in riding upright,  is that the discomfort of the 
> hands is reduced 75% and the butt discomfort 100% increase ( which was 
> nonexistent when I rode with drops) makes me want to just go back to drops. 
> I am more comfortable riding at wifespeed (and all other speeds) with 
> drops, turns out. No matter the bar heights or saddles.
>
> Also, headwinds are noticably more noticeable and wintry blasts harder to 
> endure while upright.
>
> I don't think I have never heard of someone on this list, or from Walnut 
> Creek finding uprighting to be less comfortable than dropsing. So I thought 
> I'd include it as a datapoint here.
>
> Has anyone here also found upriding to not be their cup of tea?
>
> I will say though that upriding provides fantastic views.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Found Upright riding worse than drops riding.

[Patrick Moore]

Roberta: Thanks Grant; long ago he told me to do this and like you, I found
it worked.

On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 10:40 AM, REC  wrote:

> Off list I had contacted Patrick about shoulder and neck pain on my non
> Riv bike asking for recommendations on what changes I could make on it.
> Saddle and handlebars are about the same height.  His suggestion once he
> saw picture of the bike setup was to move the saddle back.  I don't know
> the right terminology, but just as the seat is "behind" the peddles on the
> OM-1 pictured above, my seat wasn't.  I changed the saddle to one with
> longer rails and moved it to the most back position.  This removed most of
> my pain and I felt more balanced on the bike.  It's almost perfect.  In
> fact, it is so good, that I'm thinking about getting a Selle Anatomica
> saddle because I heard that because it has longer rails I can move the seat
> back even more.   Thank you Patrick!
>
> Roberta
>
> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 1:42:48 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Several people have described this experience on the list. I've found, as
>> have others, that sometimes you relieve, not only your seat, but your
>> shoulders, arms, and hands by moving the saddle back to get more of an
>> angle between hip and pedals, and let your torso muscles hold more of your
>> torso's weight.
>>
>> This happens not only with drops but with bars of all sorts, IME.
>>
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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Belopsky]

Thanks all - I am waiting for the Frank Jones Sr geometry/specs, then will 
either go with that, a custom, or a Bob Jackson World Tour spaced at 
(Probably) 120mm,

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Re: [RBW] Found Upright riding worse than drops riding.

[REC]

Off list I had contacted Patrick about shoulder and neck pain on my non Riv 
bike asking for recommendations on what changes I could make on it.  Saddle 
and handlebars are about the same height.  His suggestion once he saw 
picture of the bike setup was to move the saddle back.  I don't know the 
right terminology, but just as the seat is "behind" the peddles on the OM-1 
pictured above, my seat wasn't.  I changed the saddle to one with longer 
rails and moved it to the most back position.  This removed most of my pain 
and I felt more balanced on the bike.  It's almost perfect.  In fact, it is 
so good, that I'm thinking about getting a Selle Anatomica saddle because I 
heard that because it has longer rails I can move the seat back even 
more.   Thank you Patrick!

Roberta

On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 1:42:48 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

> Several people have described this experience on the list. I've found, as 
> have others, that sometimes you relieve, not only your seat, but your 
> shoulders, arms, and hands by moving the saddle back to get more of an 
> angle between hip and pedals, and let your torso muscles hold more of your 
> torso's weight. 
>
> This happens not only with drops but with bars of all sorts, IME.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[Esteban]

Thanks for lifting this post out of the past. Just an update: I still love 
love love my Quickbeam although I have another one from this original post 
- a 60cm which fits me better. Running 39x16 and can still make it around 
town. 

Happy holidays, folks!
Esteban

On Monday, December 8, 2008 at 8:27:54 PM UTC-8, charlie wrote:
>
> I haven't a Quickbeam..yet... but I do own a two speed 
> conversion bike using the White Industries 16-19 and  36x39 dual chain 
> rings. I get a 50 and 65 inch gear set up this way using 27" wheels 
> and so far its been good for most terrain within 20 miles of me 
> depending on the direction. Being 50 years old and 255 lbs. I try to 
> avoid climbing steep grades in these gears but I do alright. What I 
> have noticed is that the rhythm of the ride changes using a 
> deraileurless bike and that's okay by me. I like coasting down hills 
> and spinning comfortably between 13-18 mph on the flats. 
>  I did some preliminary testing with my geared bike and most of the 
> time I found myself in a mid 60 inch gear for relatively flat 
> sections. I wanted a lower gear for steeper grades, head winds and 
> when I am tired so I elected to go with the setup I have now. When I 
> get a QB frame I will set it up with a 16-18 and a 22 tooth on the 
> flip side with stock rings. This gives 39, 48,60 & 68 inch gearing. 
> Perfectly suitable for my type of relaxed riding. I am not racing and 
> to me, if I can average 10-15 mph I am happy enough. 
> I like the idea of not having to think about shifting and I use my 
> bikes to go places, not just for riding around. I am lately using more 
> normal clothing (jeans and wool shirts etc.) for the winter and I am 
> riding with a more relaxed pace. I don't seem to go a whole lot slower 
> (maybe 1-2 mph) but I don't sweat so badly either and I can ride a lot 
> farther when I don't use up the 'rocket fuel' so fast. 
>
> On Dec 7, 6:55 pm, Esteban  wrote: 
> > I did about 50 miles on the Quickbeam today up the San Diego coast - 
> > from near Downtown to Encinitas.  I usually take it a little slower on 
> > my Protovelo, set up with Albatross bars, B66, etc.  I rode the same 
> > ride last weekend with my brother and he took my (now sold) Kogswell 
> > P58, and really kicked some butt.  He's very fast, and there are 
> > usually racing (or racing-dressed) riders on this ride.  I got the 
> > idea to take the Quickbeam (set up with Noodles) and ride it pretty 
> > hard for the coast ride today.  The Q usually serves as my "getter" 
> > with a Wald basket and has seen 30-35 mile fun rides, but mostly 10-20 
> > mile errand/transportation trips. 
> > 
> > It was wonderful the whole time. I've gotten better at spinning as 
> > well as coasting - and I was passed on some of the big downhills.  But 
> > I passed the same riders on the uphills.  I charged up Torrey Pines 
> > road without too much trouble.  I was exhausted when I got home, but 
> > thrilled with the simplicity and fun of the day.  Never went down to 
> > my smaller chainwheel, but if I went up into Torrey Pines State Park, 
> > that would have been the call. 
> > 
> > I just wanted to say how great the stock gearing is on the bike.  When 
> > I first got it, I was frustrated about having to spin so much on flats 
> > and coast downhill.  Now I really appreciate it, especially because 
> > 40x18 gets me up almost any hill, including those on this ride, and 
> > even up Potrero Hill in San Francisco.  Actually, mid-grade ascents 
> > seem *easier* on the Quickbeam.  I can't explain that.  40x18 also 
> > seems to be a great touring set-up.  Its fun to learn to love things 
> > that you might initially shun.

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Re: [RBW] Grocery Run - No Trailer Test

[Patrick Moore]

Any idea of the total weight in all those bags?

I recall trying out front loading, in a very cursory way, some 6-8 years
ago, with a thrift store Schwinn Voyager, to which I'd attached Wald's
biggest front basket. I carried as much as 56 lbs in it, but handling was
simply not safe; neither riding it or, worse, walking it when the front
weight would make the back end flip up and over.

On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 9:35 PM, J Imler  wrote:

> Click here
> 
> if you are inclined.
>
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[RBW] FS: Small Sackville TrunkSack

[Jorge Espada Vick]

Used a couple of times and has some minor scuffs as a result, but generally 
in very good shape. Not sure if it's olive or light brown, but it's canvas. 
$75 via Paypal. Happy to answer questions or provide additional photos.




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Re: [RBW] Found Upright riding worse than drops riding.

[Ryan Fleming]

this is a good thread and Grant,Patrick and Roberta sort of confirm my 
guess that  for the mixte with the choco-norms I should  shift my saddle 
back. Looking again at my bike I am not sure  I have too much rail to play 
with but there is some. I like drops  on  longer rides and my  favourite 
bar   for, oh,  25 years is  the moustache bar for the distances I 
generally ride. I think I'm just one of those folks who likes some lean 
(app 45 degrees)

Upright or not the bars RBW sells do allow a variety of hand positions and 
that  helps a lot.

As usual , interesting insights from the folks on the list

On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 11:40:38 AM UTC-6, REC wrote:
>
> Off list I had contacted Patrick about shoulder and neck pain on my non 
> Riv bike asking for recommendations on what changes I could make on it.  
> Saddle and handlebars are about the same height.  His suggestion once he 
> saw picture of the bike setup was to move the saddle back.  I don't know 
> the right terminology, but just as the seat is "behind" the peddles on the 
> OM-1 pictured above, my seat wasn't.  I changed the saddle to one with 
> longer rails and moved it to the most back position.  This removed most of 
> my pain and I felt more balanced on the bike.  It's almost perfect.  In 
> fact, it is so good, that I'm thinking about getting a Selle Anatomica 
> saddle because I heard that because it has longer rails I can move the seat 
> back even more.   Thank you Patrick!
>
> Roberta
>
> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 1:42:48 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Several people have described this experience on the list. I've found, as 
>> have others, that sometimes you relieve, not only your seat, but your 
>> shoulders, arms, and hands by moving the saddle back to get more of an 
>> angle between hip and pedals, and let your torso muscles hold more of your 
>> torso's weight. 
>>
>> This happens not only with drops but with bars of all sorts, IME.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTT: Jones 2.5 SG + stem combo for Bosco + Tallux

[Ash [who works to bike]]

Thanks for the recommendation Joe.  I was wondering about this.  Sometime 
ago I went to Riv website to order a Tallux, but stopped since I wasn't 
sure which one I needed.

Brian and I are trading the handlebars!


On Monday, 11 December 2017 07:55:11 UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I recommend the 13cm stem. Boscos reach WAY back. 

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[RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[Philip Williamson]

This old thread was a nice surprise!

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Bullmoose Bar, $125

[allenmichael]

sold.

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 4:52:09 PM UTC-7, allenmichael wrote:
>
> Fillet Brazed. Bought this off the list and had lots of plans for it that 
> never materialized. It sat briefly on a Ram 650b conversion that didn't 
> stick.
>
> Because of the size, I would prefer a local Portland sale, but I'll ship 
> it as well.
>
> Price is net to me after shipping.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[Wally Estrella]

Jack Brown Blues.  I'm on my second set.  I had considered JB Greens and 
some flavor of Compass, but love the JBB enough to keep them rolling.


On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 1:23:40 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> What tires do you all commonly use on the QB? A rough guesstimate using 
> Jim's trail calculator says that a 35-to-42 (actual) mm tire, the width I 
> assume you'd choose for the QB, gives a wheel diameter of 27.5" to 28", so 
> a 40 X 18 would give you a 61-62 inch gear, which is certainly usable, but 
> IME rather low for all 'round pavement and dirt road riding -- ie, the sort 
> of riding you'd be likely to do on a 35 mm or 42 mm tire. 
>
> I started off riding fixed/ss with a 63" gear, and rather quickly ramped 
> it up to 67/8" and then to 70/71" for commuting and grocery getting; in 
> fact, I found 63" quite nice for my Monocog 29er. IME, the 65 to 70 gi 
> range is a good one for all rounder riding, though I use a slightly higher 
> gear for the gofast. Note that 70" and 76" do very well in firm dirt with 
> gradual inclines.
>
> On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 12:18 AM, lum gim fong  > wrote:
>
>> If i ever ss i hope twill be on a Qbeam.
>> I will try the 40x18stock option.
>>
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>
>
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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Jeremy Till]

The Surly hub came/does come in 130mm and 120mm OLN's but I think they both 
share the same hubshell, so both would have the same chainline.  The 130mm 
just has a longer axle.  In any case, my Casseroll wasn't a stock build, it 
used a variety of track hubs in back, including a Dura-Ace and a Phil Wood 
that I had sent to Phil to respace from 120mm or 126mm out to 130mm.  They 
all had a 42mm chainline, which is the 120mm track hub standard.  

Nevertheless, it does sound like frames differ a lot here: chainstay 
diameter, how closely to the center of the BB shell the chainstays attach, 
chainstay bends/dimples, and chainstay length can all help or hurt 
clearance here.  

On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 8:58:23 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>
> I agree, how much leeway one has on either side of about a 40t chainring 
> is likely going depend the frame.
>
> I used a 120mm hub with spacers in a 1988 Trek frame that probably had 
> 126mm dropouts, but a 40t was as big as I could go. But that makes sense; 
> the bike was originally spec'd with a 40t inner ring on a double. It wasn't 
> designed for someone to easily convert to singlespeed 15 years later.
>
> The Casseroll on the other hand, was. The stock singlespeed version used a 
> 130mm Surly hub. I assume that hub, and some thoughtful chainstay design 
> explains how they were able to get a 48t ring on it. 
> http://salsacycles.com/files/pages/Casseroll_Single.pdf
>
>
> On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 10:57:39 AM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>
>> I guess it depends on the frame but I think the concern about chainring 
>> clearance on a 130mm spaced frame is overstated.  I used to run a Salsa 
>> Casseroll as a fixed gear, and it had 130mm hub spacing.  A 42t chainring 
>> at the appropriate chainline for a track hub (~42mm) never had any 
>> clearance issues.  
>>
>> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?
>>>
>>> I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking 
>>> as you and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.
>>>
>>> But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. 
>>> If you plan to use say, a 42 or 44 chainring you might have trouble with 
>>> chainstay clearance.
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[Ian A]

Patrick,

Slight thread drift:

Was the ramp up in gear inches from 67 to 71 and 76 due to an increase in 
strength/familiarity with riding fixed? Or was it the result of trial and error.

I'm planning a fixie build, once the Christmas season passes and finances 
settle, and I'm wondering about my best gearing options off the bat. I live in 
a relatively flat city, that has a few noticeable acute climbs (river valley 
topography).

Also, it looks like there are more options in the 3/32 chain width standard for 
cogs. Can I get away with using 8 speed chain rings, or is that asking for 
derailment issues?

Thanks for any insights
IanA

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[RBW] Clem for my wife.

[Andrew Huston]

My wife has expressed some interest in a new bike and I thought I’d see if 
anyone has a 52 Clem they are thinking of selling. Preferably the H. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Choco-Moose bar/stem, $120

[Irving]

Holiday bump, how about price drop to $100 picked up (or +shipping)

On Monday, December 4, 2017 at 3:04:34 PM UTC-8, Irving wrote:
>
> Lightly used Nitto Choco-Moose bar for $120 (link to Riv description 
> 
> )
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *This is our newest bar, with its most recent ancestor the epoch-making 
>> Albatross handlebar, but with a few tweaks that make make it a new species. 
>> Namely:It’s flatter, with an inch of drop or rise (from center where the 
>> stem clamps it) to the end of the grip) instead of two. This means it’s 
>> more flippable upside down and rightside up, and it’s so damn flippable 
>> that we had NITTO stamp NITTO both ways on the center sleeve. Nobody can 
>> yell at you now!It’s 3 percent more ergonomic in the downward orientation, 
>> but what’s 3 percent? Three parts in a hundred, is the answer to that.Also 
>> different (compared to the Albatross bar):• straighter next to the stem, 
>> for arguably a 9 percent better grip there.• longer sweep-bar/grip area, 
>> for a closer grip and a longer grabbable spot in front of the of the 
>> shifters/brake levers.Like all our handlebars (barring the plain 
>> Bullmoose,) the Choco takes barend shifters and brake levers.CHOCO-MOOSE, 
>> with the triangulation that makes it moosey. It has to be stiffer and 
>> stronger, but the other is strong and stiff enough, so it’s mostly style. 
>> And this one retreats an extra inch-or so.*
>
>
>
> Pickup in SF or in the Peninsula preferred, if still interested please let 
> me know your zip code and I can arrange shipping (we will split the cost)!
>
>
> - Irving
>

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[RBW] Re: Grocery Run - No Trailer Test

[Deacon Patrick]

Great looking rig, J! The only way to learn is to do when it comes to hauling. 
Sounds like you learned while remaining upright, which is always preferable. 
Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[Patrick Moore]

Forgot to say that, I'm glad that riding fixed has been such a positive
experience! Man, I don't suffer your imbalance problems, but I would indeed
have a very hard time replacing fixed gear riding with freewheel riding.

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Re: [RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[Patrick Moore]

=On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 1:38 PM, Ian A  wrote:

> ...
>
> Was the ramp up in gear inches from 67 to 71 and 76 due to an increase in
> strength/familiarity with riding fixed? Or was it the result of trial and
> error.
>

Both, really. I started low, afraid that if I went any higher than my 63"
gear, I'd have to get off and walk at each hill -- which was silly, because
even back then -- circa 1996 -- I tended not to downshift a great deal for
hills.

I quickly found out that I disliked having to pedal so fast on flats (this
was back when I could maintain 21-23 on the open road at 108-120 rpm -- I
used to count cadence) and geared up.

OTOH, I was also, back then, a spinner, and I am convinced that riding
fixed helped make me into a masher, so in my own analysis of my gearing
progress, there are conundrums I haven't figured out myself.

At any rate, I do know that there was indeed a physiological adaptation
that happened relatively quickly; certainly within 6 to 12 months if not
sooner; there also was a psychological adaptation -- eg, don't
"automatically" try to maintain speed against winds and on hills -- that
took several years -- I recall complaining to myself how I hated headwinds
when riding fixed; but after several years, I'd learned or reprogrammed to
simply maintain a level of effort instead of a level of speed.

And of course, there is the physiological adaptation to standing for longer
periods and remaining aerobic; and the psychological adaptation of simply
learning to "thinking ahead" to conserve energy for what is to come; ever
more important as I age.

None of this is rocket science; I find fixed and all its various
ramifications very interesting, since I love riding fixed so much, but
really, it's simply a matter of getting on and doing it -- and, of giving
yourself enough time to get used to it before you say, "I don't like it."

Eric Norris, sometime of this list, did PBP fixed, and toured across the
Rockies fixed; he should chime in.

As to rings and cogs: One other advantage of fixed drivetrains is that you
can get by with just about anything. 1/8, 3/32, 10 speed chains -- it all
works. You can put a 1/8" chain on a 10 speed ring to pull a 3/32 cog, no
problem. I once used a 10 sp chain on an old 5 sp-era (? Old Pro 5 Vis)
ring pulling a 3/32 fixed cog; the 10 sp chain had a 8 speed chain
masterlink. It worked fine.

The only finickiness is if you use a Dingle cog; these require a chain no
wider than one made for 9 speed cassettes; 8 speeders and older rub the
adjacent cog.


>
> I'm planning a fixie build, once the Christmas season passes and finances
> settle, and I'm wondering about my best gearing options off the bat. I live
> in a relatively flat city, that has a few noticeable acute climbs (river
> valley topography).
>
> Also, it looks like there are more options in the 3/32 chain width
> standard for cogs. Can I get away with using 8 speed chain rings, or is
> that asking for derailment issues?
>
> Thanks for any insights
> IanA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[Deacon Patrick]

I didn’t tighten the rear wheel enough on my ride and ended up with some slack 
in the chain. I rode it for a bit to experiment with that very question, 
Patrick. The “magic” is there, just not as directly. It’s there with a slightly 
disconnected pause (boy, do I NOT like THAT!). The freewheel does engage, is 
engaged, is driving the chain forward, but you have to stay ahead of the 
“skip”. The flywheel does, at that point, directly connect through the now 
taught chain, until you pedal slower than the flywheel, then you “skip” to 
engage the flywheel by backpedaling.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Found Upright riding worse than drops riding.

[Paul in Dallas]

I find this to be an interesting and helpful thread.

Thanks for starting it Lum.

I have switched all 5 of my bikes to upright bars and for most rides 
prefer them.


Occasionally, I want to push myself a little and wish for a more aero 
position.
I will probably switch one bike back to Nitto Noodle bars for rides I 
wish to push myself a bit more.


That's primarily because even though an old dude now, I occasionally get 
in a competitive mindset
and try to surprise someone half my age who is probably on a 'wonder' 
bike 8 to 10 or more pounds lighter or
at least make then work for dropping me and 'wonder' about an old white 
bearded guy riding a 25 to 27 pound old steel bike

hanging with them for a while.

I also ride with my wife quite a bit and we only average 9 or 10 mph 
when riding together and the upright bars work well for me on these rides.


Late spring or early summer, I forget, I did one 100k ride (although was 
only planning for 30 to 40 miles)
by myself on an upright bar bike and my back side was more of an issue 
than the hands at the end of the ride.
It was one of those days everything, bike, body, weather, traffic, etc 
seemed to be clicking and I just kept going until I had had enough.

I think the vintage Univega bike for that ride had  Soma Sparrow bars on it.

One thing that I learned early on was to move hand positions often 
whichever bars on the bike.


Like Grant said 'different strokes' type of thing and also the' fun' 
factor on the upright bars.

I seem to get more serious when on a drop bar bike.
I'm glad a well designed bike frame lends itself to a variety of 
configurations.


It's fun for me to continue experimenting and learning from folks like 
on this list.
Although I am not experimenting quite as much as one of my good friends 
who I think has tried about every upright bar out there.

I kid about him changing bars like some folks change their shirts.
It sure helps to be able to do your own wrenching.

Safer pedaling everyone,
Paul in Dallas






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[RBW] Re: Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[dougP]

People have often mused on the "magic" of riding fixed without being able 
to explain it.  This is the first explanation I've read & it does make 
intuitive sense.  

dougP

On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 2:43:13 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> In which I puzzle and ponder about why fixed is such a game changer for my 
> brain. A few pics of snowy trails too.
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/fixed-flywheel-for-the-brain/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[Patrick Moore]

That is my experience too, and I can't explain it. It's not pure flywheel,
since there isn't a "tight" connection between wheel and legs; yet there is
very definitely a smoothness that you don't have with a freewheel -- or
with even the 2 degrees of lash as found in a S3X. It can't be -- at least
for me -- the chain driving my legs, since there's no jerking. So, I dunno.
Perhaps a symphony between wheel/chain and legs that you don't get with a
freewheel? But then, why would you not get it with a freewheel?

Long ago, when I first starting riding fixed, I recall talking about the
"flywheel effect" on the boblist, and being hooted down by others saying
there is no such thing. Again, I dunno.



On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 5:01 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> I didn’t tighten the rear wheel enough on my ride and ended up with some
> slack in the chain. I rode it for a bit to experiment with that very
> question, Patrick. The “magic” is there, just not as directly. It’s there
> with a slightly disconnected pause (boy, do I NOT like THAT!). The
> freewheel does engage, is engaged, is driving the chain forward, but you
> have to stay ahead of the “skip”. The flywheel does, at that point,
> directly connect through the now taught chain, until you pedal slower than
> the flywheel, then you “skip” to engage the flywheel by backpedaling.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[EasyRider]

Thanks for the info. I had assumed that the 130 hub had a wider shell and 
chainline. Sounds like it wouldn't help my situation.


On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 3:32:16 PM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> The Surly hub came/does come in 130mm and 120mm OLN's but I think they 
> both share the same hubshell, so both would have the same chainline.  The 
> 130mm just has a longer axle.  In any case, my Casseroll wasn't a stock 
> build, it used a variety of track hubs in back, including a Dura-Ace and a 
> Phil Wood that I had sent to Phil to respace from 120mm or 126mm out to 
> 130mm.  They all had a 42mm chainline, which is the 120mm track hub 
> standard.  
>
> Nevertheless, it does sound like frames differ a lot here: chainstay 
> diameter, how closely to the center of the BB shell the chainstays attach, 
> chainstay bends/dimples, and chainstay length can all help or hurt 
> clearance here.  
>
> On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 8:58:23 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I agree, how much leeway one has on either side of about a 40t chainring 
>> is likely going depend the frame.
>>
>> I used a 120mm hub with spacers in a 1988 Trek frame that probably had 
>> 126mm dropouts, but a 40t was as big as I could go. But that makes sense; 
>> the bike was originally spec'd with a 40t inner ring on a double. It wasn't 
>> designed for someone to easily convert to singlespeed 15 years later.
>>
>> The Casseroll on the other hand, was. The stock singlespeed version used 
>> a 130mm Surly hub. I assume that hub, and some thoughtful chainstay design 
>> explains how they were able to get a 48t ring on it. 
>> http://salsacycles.com/files/pages/Casseroll_Single.pdf
>>
>>
>> On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 10:57:39 AM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>>
>>> I guess it depends on the frame but I think the concern about chainring 
>>> clearance on a 130mm spaced frame is overstated.  I used to run a Salsa 
>>> Casseroll as a fixed gear, and it had 130mm hub spacing.  A 42t chainring 
>>> at the appropriate chainline for a track hub (~42mm) never had any 
>>> clearance issues.  
>>>
>>> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:

 I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?

 I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking 
 as you and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.

 But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. 
 If you plan to use say, a 42 or 44 chainring you might have trouble with 
 chainstay clearance.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[Patrick Moore]

But Patrick rides with a tight chain; other's don't and yet feel some sort
of "magic".

On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 4:50 PM, dougP  wrote:

> People have often mused on the "magic" of riding fixed without being able
> to explain it.  This is the first explanation I've read & it does make
> intuitive sense.
>
> dougP
>
> On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 2:43:13 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> In which I puzzle and ponder about why fixed is such a game changer for
>> my brain. A few pics of snowy trails too.
>> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/fixed-flywheel-for-the-brain/
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.CredoFamily.org
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[Joe Bernard]

I love that this thread started in the midst of the SS/fixie thing, then sat 
out 9 years until it became a thing again ;-)

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[RBW] Re: Grocery Run - No Trailer Test

[J Imler]

The front rack is rated to 40lbs. I was probably close to that, but I can't 
say for sure.
The two bags in the front basket are from LL Bean. Mine are the size M. I 
like them. Here's a link: 
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/38534?page=hunters-tote-bag-zip-top 

On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 8:04:41 AM UTC-8, Tim D wrote:
>
> Fantastic!
> That looks like a great grocery getter set up, but maybe a little heavy in 
> front? Maybe?
>
> What's the brand/model of the bags in the front basket? They look like 
> they might work really well for me when I start commuting to work again 
> next year.
>
>
> On Sunday, December 10, 2017 at 9:35:06 PM UTC-7, J Imler wrote:
>>
>> Click here 
>> 
>>  
>> if you are inclined. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[Patrick Moore]

That is very interesting! Now, I understand that you have a "perfectly"
tight chain, but still, it's very interesting to hear the therapeutic
effects of no "lag" over TDC, or bdc for that matter.

Me, I don't like a tight chain, and I adjust mine so that there's the
caononical 1/2" of up/down movement; so there's no real flywheel effect;
and *yet* I do feel a smoothness fixed that I don't with a freewheel; and a
sign* that something mechanical is going on is that, when I get back onto a
fw bike after many days and miles of fixed, I tend to pedal jerkily for the
first half mile or so; *and* sign # 2, is that I find an absolutely huge
difference between the fixed S3X hub, with its few degrees of lash, and a
true fixed cog.

Perhaps this, when the chain has the usual accepted slack in it, all has
something to do with the minimum amount of free play between wheel movement
and pedal movement? I haven't figured it out, but I certainly feel it.

* A piece of evidence that is not conclusive but that, because it fits with
the thesis, to that extent supports it; ie, it supports the thesis by the
fact that the thesis would explain it.

On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 3:42 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> In which I puzzle and ponder about why fixed is such a game changer for my
> brain. A few pics of snowy trails too.
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/fixed-flywheel-for-the-brain/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
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[RBW] Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[Deacon Patrick]

In which I puzzle and ponder about why fixed is such a game changer for my 
brain. A few pics of snowy trails too.
https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/fixed-flywheel-for-the-brain/

With abandon,
Patrick

www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

[ted]

Ian, unsolicited advice (I'm not a Patrick) but ...

Gearing, particularly fixed gear gearing, is very particular to the rider. 
How strong are you, what cadences are you comfortable with, etc.
The best way to get a handle on where to start is to pay attention to what 
gears you use on your multi-speed bike, and try putting it in one gear and 
leave it there for a while. Also accept the idea that in time you will 
likely end up with a collection of rings and cogs, which can be a good 
thing and not really all that expensive as bike fetishes go.

On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 12:38:20 PM UTC-8, Ian A wrote:
>
> Patrick,
>
> Slight thread drift:
>
> Was the ramp up in gear inches from 67 to 71 and 76 due to an increase in 
> strength/familiarity with riding fixed? Or was it the result of trial and 
> error.
>
> I'm planning a fixie build, once the Christmas season passes and finances 
> settle, and I'm wondering about my best gearing options off the bat. I live 
> in a relatively flat city, that has a few noticeable acute climbs (river 
> valley topography).
>
> Also, it looks like there are more options in the 3/32 chain width 
> standard for cogs. Can I get away with using 8 speed chain rings, or is 
> that asking for derailment issues?
>
> Thanks for any insights
> IanA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS-1983/4 Specialized Expedition 58cm. New everything. Compass, nitto, dynamo, etc.

[drew]

Sold 

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[RBW] perforated bar wrap

[ted]

Hey all,

I've got a best practices question I hope you can help me with. I am 
planing to try some perforated leather handlebar wrap, and it occurred to 
me that sweat might accumulate in the holes along the tops of my drop bars 
thereby leading to corrosion problems. Is that an unwarranted concern? 
Would it make sense to put on a layer of cloth tape with shellac  under the 
perforated leather? Anybody here have experience with that sort of thing?

thnks
ted

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[ted]

I try to minimize the lash without having the chain actually tight. My 
sense of what is unique about a fixed gear is that its so noticeable (and a 
bit disconcerting) when the lash goes all the way the other way and the 
wheel forces your foot up and or over, that you train yourself to keep your 
feet moving very consistently round and round to avoid it. Any slight 
hesitation in your pedal stroke and a fixed gear will remind you "hey don't 
do that". Even if you're smooth enough to avoid those reminders, someplace 
in the back of your mind you know if you get sloppy ...
I think that's consistent with the old school admonition to ride fixed gear 
in the off season to improve your spin.

On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 4:57:34 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> That is my experience too, and I can't explain it. It's not pure flywheel, 
> since there isn't a "tight" connection between wheel and legs; yet there is 
> very definitely a smoothness that you don't have with a freewheel -- or 
> with even the 2 degrees of lash as found in a S3X. It can't be -- at least 
> for me -- the chain driving my legs, since there's no jerking. So, I dunno. 
> Perhaps a symphony between wheel/chain and legs that you don't get with a 
> freewheel? But then, why would you not get it with a freewheel?
>
> Long ago, when I first starting riding fixed, I recall talking about the 
> "flywheel effect" on the boblist, and being hooted down by others saying 
> there is no such thing. Again, I dunno.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 5:01 PM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote:
>
>> I didn’t tighten the rear wheel enough on my ride and ended up with some 
>> slack in the chain. I rode it for a bit to experiment with that very 
>> question, Patrick. The “magic” is there, just not as directly. It’s there 
>> with a slightly disconnected pause (boy, do I NOT like THAT!). The 
>> freewheel does engage, is engaged, is driving the chain forward, but you 
>> have to stay ahead of the “skip”. The flywheel does, at that point, 
>> directly connect through the now taught chain, until you pedal slower than 
>> the flywheel, then you “skip” to engage the flywheel by backpedaling.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> --
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>
>
>
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> **
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[RBW] Re: Grocery Run - No Trailer Test

[J Imler]

Thanks for the compliment Deacon Patrick. You are my hero so you know. I'm not 
kidding. Your bikes and scenery are divine. 

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[RBW] Fixed Flywheel for the Brain

[Philip Williamson]

I’m not at all surprised that fixed riding is good for your brain, but I’m 
happy it is.

I like a tight (but not binding - I don’t measure it) chain fixed. The 
proprioception through the pedals is interesting, since I’ve never felt fixed 
made me “connected to the bike” so much as “connected to the ground.”

Philip
biketinker.com

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