Re: [RE-wrenches] Charging a Bolt with an SW

[Ray]

I meant the efficiency of the electrical transfer of energy to the EV 
battery, not necessarily total system efficiency.  In general, higher 
charge rates means more heat, more line losses, etc.  Just look at the 
efficiency specs vs charge rate for any battery; its basic physics.  The 
lead acid battery side of the system especially works better at lower 
rates, but in your case you have surplus PV, so the house batteries are 
no longer really part of the equation.    Again, electrical efficiency 
is not always the end all, beat all; taking advantage of excess PV in 
the summer is improving overall system efficiency by utilizing power 
that would other wise be wasted, even if the efficiency of the energy 
transfer itself from one battery to another is a bit lower.


On the other hand for a typical customer leaving the EV plugged in over 
night to go to work the next day, a lower charge rate will be better.


Ray Walters
Remote Solar
303 505-8760

On 6/8/20 3:54 PM, Chris Mason wrote:
>Lower charge rates are more efficient both for the car's battery and 
the solar/ battery system
I don't get that. Our house battery is full at about 11 a.m., so we 
have about four hours to charge the car. During that time we make 
about 6KW, so the car uses 5KW of that and charges up. If I went to 
the 120V charger, I would be charging all day and it still would not 
be charged.


On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 1:05 PM Ray > wrote:


Also have a customer with a Leaf that can charge from a dual GVFX
system.  He uses the 120 vac charger.  Lower charge rates are more
efficient both for the car's battery and the solar/ battery
system, so I recommend sticking to the 120 vac chargers if possible.

Ray Walters
Remote Solar
303 505-8760

On 6/7/20 6:04 PM, Darryl Thayer wrote:

I was trying to charge a Nissan Leaf with a ? Iam not sure but
two VFX i think old age.. i mostly rember having the problem.  I
think the car  harger had a max of 2kw

On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 3:41 PM Jay mailto:jay.pe...@gmail.com>> wrote:

I’ve got offgrid  2 clients and they have no issues.

They each have a Bolt and can choose the charging rate. They
can run it at either power. But only use higher power when
they have lots of sun.
Older Stacked vfx and Schneider xw, no issues.

I would expect the SW to work, however it’s an odd beast as
it’s waveform steps change with load. More load, more steps,
therefor cleaner so maybe at lower charge rate it’s not clean
enough.

As to your issue it could be power factor Being really poor.
Can you tell us what inverter, yea 5 years ago is a long time.



Jay

Peltz power.






On Jun 7, 2020, at 11:53 AM, Darryl Thayer
mailto:darylsol...@gmail.com>> wrote:


I think you said it well, about 5 years ago I tried to
charge a car from an off-grid system.  I did not record my
events but the inverter had twice the power of the level two
charger, yet the inverter would get hot and trip out.  I was
told a ferroresonant transformer may help, and it might be
different with different cars.  However, I was warned the
ferroresonant was to stop input wave problems from arriving
at the output not to prevent the output wave problems
showing up on the input.   The off-grid customer gave up.

On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 6:36 AM Hilton Dier III
mailto:hiltond...@gmail.com>> wrote:

The issue with EV chargers is that they create a lot of
reactive power. Think of it as "slosh" in the waveform.
That means that charging at 2,000 watts sloshes a lot
more than 2kW through the cable, plug, outlet, and from
the inverter. If you've got a reasonably good sinewave
inverter the charger will like it fine. However, the
inverter might not like the charger if you cut things
too close. Make sure to have a lot of top end left in
your inverter. Always use a transformer based inverter.
The SW series has a big chunk of metal in it, so that's
good. At 120V the Bolt will only draw 1440 watts max.

An aftermarket Bolt 240V charger can draw up to 32 amps.
That's 7.7 kW, so too big for an SW. Treat it more like
40 amps. The OEM 120/240 EVSE (smart charging cord) that
comes with the car can draw 8 or 12 amps at 120V or 12
at 240V. Assume that the 8 amps is really 12 and the 12
is really 15 or a bit more. I have seen 15 amp plugs and
outlets with the hot prong melting plastic around it.
The plug on the OEM EVSE is 20A rated but make sure your
outlet is as well.

-- 
Hilton Dier III

Missisquoi River Hydro
Renewab

Re: [RE-wrenches] Charging a Bolt with an SW

[Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar]

The good LFP batteries all tell you max charge/discharge rate and that
in their specifications. Cascading of batteries usually widens these rates.


Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
"we go where powerlines
don't"
http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/ [1]
e-mail offgridso...@sti.net
[2]
text 209 813 0060

On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 16:37:12 -0400, Jason Szumlanski 
wrote:  I think what he means is that the battery lifespan will improve
with slower charging.   On that note, I have not seen much concrete
information on how high charge rates affect all of these newer lithium
batteries. They all claim outwardly that their battery can be charged fast,
because let's face it... that's what consumers want. But behind the scenes
they really want you to charge it slower (and not necessarily to 100%). How
fast is too fast is the question I always have.  
  On
Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 3:54 PM Chris Mason  wrote:  >Lower charge rates are
more efficient both for the car's battery and the solar/ battery system I
don't get that. Our house battery is full at about 11 a.m., so we have
about four hours to charge the car. During that time we make about 6KW, so
the car uses 5KW of that and charges up. If I went to the 120V charger, I
would be charging all day and it still would not be charged.  
  On Mon,
Jun 8, 2020 at 1:05 PM Ray  wrote:   

Also have a customer with a Leaf
that can charge from a dual GVFX system. He uses the 120 vac charger. Lower
charge rates are more efficient both for the car's battery and the solar/
battery system, so I recommend sticking to the 120 vac chargers if
possible. 
Ray Walters
Remote Solar
303 505-8760
 On 6/7/20 6:04 PM, Darryl
Thayer wrote:  I was trying to charge a Nissan Leaf with a ? Iam not sure
but two VFX i think old age.. i mostly rember having the problem. I think
the car harger had a max of 2kw 
  On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 3:41 PM Jay  wrote:
 I've got offgrid 2 clients and they have no issues.They each have a
Bolt and can choose the charging rate. They can run it at either power. But
only use higher power when they have lots of sun.  Older Stacked vfx and
Schneider xw, no issues.I would expect the SW to work, however it's an
odd beast as it's waveform steps change with load. More load, more steps,
therefor cleaner so maybe at lower charge rate it's not clean enough.As
to your issue it could be power factor Being really poor.  Can you tell us
what inverter, yea 5 years ago is a long time.Jay   Peltz power.   
 
 On Jun 7, 2020, at 11:53 AM, Darryl Thayer  wrote:
  I think
you said it well, about 5 years ago I tried to charge a car from an
off-grid system. I did not record my events but the inverter had twice the
power of the level two charger, yet the inverter would get hot and trip
out. I was told a ferroresonant transformer may help, and it might be
different with different cars. However, I was warned the ferroresonant was
to stop input wave problems from arriving at the output not to prevent the
output wave problems showing up on the input. The off-grid customer gave
up.  
  On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 6:36 AM Hilton Dier III  wrote:   

The
issue with EV chargers is that they create a lot of reactive power. Think
of it as "slosh" in the waveform. That means that charging at 2,000 watts
sloshes a lot more than 2kW through the cable, plug, outlet, and from the
inverter. If you've got a reasonably good sinewave inverter the charger
will like it fine. However, the inverter might not like the charger if you
cut things too close. Make sure to have a lot of top end left in your
inverter. Always use a transformer based inverter. The SW series has a big
chunk of metal in it, so that's good. At 120V the Bolt will only draw 1440
watts max.

An aftermarket Bolt 240V charger can draw up to 32 amps. That's
7.7 kW, so too big for an SW. Treat it more like 40 amps. The OEM 120/240
EVSE (smart charging cord) that comes with the car can draw 8 or 12 amps at
120V or 12 at 240V. Assume that the 8 amps is really 12 and the 12 is
really 15 or a bit more. I have seen 15 amp plugs and outlets with the hot
prong melting plastic around it. The plug on the OEM EVSE is 20A rated but
make sure your outlet is as well. 
-- 
Hilton Dier III
Missisquoi River
Hydro
Renewable Energy Design

 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Charging a Bolt with an SW

[Jason Szumlanski]

I think what he means is that the battery lifespan will improve with slower
charging.

On that note, I have not seen much concrete information on how high charge
rates affect all of these newer lithium batteries. They all claim outwardly
that their battery can be charged fast, because let's face it... that's
what consumers want. But behind the scenes they really want you to charge
it slower (and not necessarily to 100%). How fast is too fast is the
question I always have.



On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 3:54 PM Chris Mason 
wrote:

> >Lower charge rates are more efficient both for the car's battery and the
> solar/ battery system
> I don't get that. Our house battery is full at about 11 a.m., so we have
> about four hours to charge the car. During that time we make about 6KW, so
> the car uses 5KW of that and charges up. If I went to the 120V charger, I
> would be charging all day and it still would not be charged.
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 1:05 PM Ray  wrote:
>
>> Also have a customer with a Leaf that can charge from a dual GVFX
>> system.  He uses the 120 vac charger.  Lower charge rates are more
>> efficient both for the car's battery and the solar/ battery system, so I
>> recommend sticking to the 120 vac chargers if possible.
>>
>> Ray Walters
>> Remote Solar
>> 303 505-8760
>>
>> On 6/7/20 6:04 PM, Darryl Thayer wrote:
>>
>> I was trying to charge a Nissan Leaf with a ? Iam not sure but two VFX i
>> think old age.. i mostly rember having the problem.  I think the car
>> harger had a max of 2kw
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 3:41 PM Jay  wrote:
>>
>>> I’ve got offgrid  2 clients and they have no issues.
>>>
>>> They each have a Bolt and can choose the charging rate. They can run it
>>> at either power. But only use higher power when they have lots of sun.
>>> Older Stacked vfx and Schneider xw, no issues.
>>>
>>> I would expect the SW to work, however it’s an odd beast as it’s
>>> waveform steps change with load. More load, more steps, therefor cleaner so
>>> maybe at lower charge rate it’s not clean enough.
>>>
>>> As to your issue it could be power factor Being really poor.
>>> Can you tell us what inverter, yea 5 years ago is a long time.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jay
>>>
>>> Peltz power.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 7, 2020, at 11:53 AM, Darryl Thayer 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>> I think you said it well, about 5 years ago I tried to charge a car from
>>> an off-grid system.  I did not record my events but the inverter had twice
>>> the power of the level two charger, yet the inverter would get hot and trip
>>> out.  I was told a ferroresonant transformer may help, and it might be
>>> different with different cars.  However, I was warned the ferroresonant was
>>> to stop input wave problems from arriving at the output not to prevent the
>>> output wave problems showing up on the input.   The off-grid customer gave
>>> up.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 6:36 AM Hilton Dier III 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 The issue with EV chargers is that they create a lot of reactive power.
 Think of it as "slosh" in the waveform. That means that charging at 2,000
 watts sloshes a lot more than 2kW through the cable, plug, outlet, and from
 the inverter. If you've got a reasonably good sinewave inverter the charger
 will like it fine. However, the inverter might not like the charger if you
 cut things too close. Make sure to have a lot of top end left in your
 inverter. Always use a transformer based inverter. The SW series has a big
 chunk of metal in it, so that's good. At 120V the Bolt will only draw 1440
 watts max.

 An aftermarket Bolt 240V charger can draw up to 32 amps. That's 7.7 kW,
 so too big for an SW. Treat it more like 40 amps. The OEM 120/240 EVSE
 (smart charging cord) that comes with the car can draw 8 or 12 amps at 120V
 or 12 at 240V. Assume that the 8 amps is really 12 and the 12 is really 15
 or a bit more. I have seen 15 amp plugs and outlets with the hot prong
 melting plastic around it. The plug on the OEM EVSE is 20A rated but make
 sure your outlet is as well.

 --
 Hilton Dier III
 Missisquoi River Hydro
 Renewable Energy Design

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Charging a Bolt with an SW

[Chris Mason]

>Lower charge rates are more efficient both for the car's battery and the
solar/ battery system
I don't get that. Our house battery is full at about 11 a.m., so we have
about four hours to charge the car. During that time we make about 6KW, so
the car uses 5KW of that and charges up. If I went to the 120V charger, I
would be charging all day and it still would not be charged.

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 1:05 PM Ray  wrote:

> Also have a customer with a Leaf that can charge from a dual GVFX system.
> He uses the 120 vac charger.  Lower charge rates are more efficient both
> for the car's battery and the solar/ battery system, so I recommend
> sticking to the 120 vac chargers if possible.
>
> Ray Walters
> Remote Solar
> 303 505-8760
>
> On 6/7/20 6:04 PM, Darryl Thayer wrote:
>
> I was trying to charge a Nissan Leaf with a ? Iam not sure but two VFX i
> think old age.. i mostly rember having the problem.  I think the car
> harger had a max of 2kw
>
> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 3:41 PM Jay  wrote:
>
>> I’ve got offgrid  2 clients and they have no issues.
>>
>> They each have a Bolt and can choose the charging rate. They can run it
>> at either power. But only use higher power when they have lots of sun.
>> Older Stacked vfx and Schneider xw, no issues.
>>
>> I would expect the SW to work, however it’s an odd beast as it’s waveform
>> steps change with load. More load, more steps, therefor cleaner so maybe at
>> lower charge rate it’s not clean enough.
>>
>> As to your issue it could be power factor Being really poor.
>> Can you tell us what inverter, yea 5 years ago is a long time.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jay
>>
>> Peltz power.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 7, 2020, at 11:53 AM, Darryl Thayer  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> I think you said it well, about 5 years ago I tried to charge a car from
>> an off-grid system.  I did not record my events but the inverter had twice
>> the power of the level two charger, yet the inverter would get hot and trip
>> out.  I was told a ferroresonant transformer may help, and it might be
>> different with different cars.  However, I was warned the ferroresonant was
>> to stop input wave problems from arriving at the output not to prevent the
>> output wave problems showing up on the input.   The off-grid customer gave
>> up.
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 6:36 AM Hilton Dier III 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The issue with EV chargers is that they create a lot of reactive power.
>>> Think of it as "slosh" in the waveform. That means that charging at 2,000
>>> watts sloshes a lot more than 2kW through the cable, plug, outlet, and from
>>> the inverter. If you've got a reasonably good sinewave inverter the charger
>>> will like it fine. However, the inverter might not like the charger if you
>>> cut things too close. Make sure to have a lot of top end left in your
>>> inverter. Always use a transformer based inverter. The SW series has a big
>>> chunk of metal in it, so that's good. At 120V the Bolt will only draw 1440
>>> watts max.
>>>
>>> An aftermarket Bolt 240V charger can draw up to 32 amps. That's 7.7 kW,
>>> so too big for an SW. Treat it more like 40 amps. The OEM 120/240 EVSE
>>> (smart charging cord) that comes with the car can draw 8 or 12 amps at 120V
>>> or 12 at 240V. Assume that the 8 amps is really 12 and the 12 is really 15
>>> or a bit more. I have seen 15 amp plugs and outlets with the hot prong
>>> melting plastic around it. The plug on the OEM EVSE is 20A rated but make
>>> sure your outlet is as well.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Hilton Dier III
>>> Missisquoi River Hydro
>>> Renewable Energy Design
>>>
>>> ___
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Charging a Bolt with an SW

[Ray]

Also have a customer with a Leaf that can charge from a dual GVFX 
system.  He uses the 120 vac charger.  Lower charge rates are more 
efficient both for the car's battery and the solar/ battery system, so I 
recommend sticking to the 120 vac chargers if possible.


Ray Walters
Remote Solar
303 505-8760

On 6/7/20 6:04 PM, Darryl Thayer wrote:
I was trying to charge a Nissan Leaf with a ? Iam not sure but two VFX 
i think old age.. i mostly rember having the problem.  I think the 
car  harger had a max of 2kw


On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 3:41 PM Jay > wrote:


I’ve got offgrid  2 clients and they have no issues.

They each have a Bolt and can choose the charging rate. They can
run it at either power. But only use higher power when they have
lots of sun.
Older Stacked vfx and Schneider xw, no issues.

I would expect the SW to work, however it’s an odd beast as it’s
waveform steps change with load. More load, more steps, therefor
cleaner so maybe at lower charge rate it’s not clean enough.

As to your issue it could be power factor Being really poor.
Can you tell us what inverter, yea 5 years ago is a long time.



Jay

Peltz power.






On Jun 7, 2020, at 11:53 AM, Darryl Thayer mailto:darylsol...@gmail.com>> wrote:


I think you said it well, about 5 years ago I tried to charge a
car from an off-grid system.  I did not record my events but the
inverter had twice the power of the level two charger, yet the
inverter would get hot and trip out.  I was told a ferroresonant
transformer may help, and it might be different with different
cars.  However, I was warned the ferroresonant was to stop input
wave problems from arriving at the output not to prevent the
output wave problems showing up on the input.   The off-grid
customer gave up.

On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 6:36 AM Hilton Dier III
mailto:hiltond...@gmail.com>> wrote:

The issue with EV chargers is that they create a lot of
reactive power. Think of it as "slosh" in the waveform. That
means that charging at 2,000 watts sloshes a lot more than
2kW through the cable, plug, outlet, and from the inverter.
If you've got a reasonably good sinewave inverter the charger
will like it fine. However, the inverter might not like the
charger if you cut things too close. Make sure to have a lot
of top end left in your inverter. Always use a transformer
based inverter. The SW series has a big chunk of metal in it,
so that's good. At 120V the Bolt will only draw 1440 watts max.

An aftermarket Bolt 240V charger can draw up to 32 amps.
That's 7.7 kW, so too big for an SW. Treat it more like 40
amps. The OEM 120/240 EVSE (smart charging cord) that comes
with the car can draw 8 or 12 amps at 120V or 12 at 240V.
Assume that the 8 amps is really 12 and the 12 is really 15
or a bit more. I have seen 15 amp plugs and outlets with the
hot prong melting plastic around it. The plug on the OEM EVSE
is 20A rated but make sure your outlet is as well.

-- 
Hilton Dier III

Missisquoi River Hydro
Renewable Energy Design

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Storedge LG Chem Resu Surge Fail

[Jerry Shafer]

Jones
Solaredge does not like to surge or ramp up quickly, in conversations with
SE the fix might be a variable frequency controller, I do not know how the
controller you have will work but historically that the cure.
Jerry

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 8:15 AM Jon Siegenthaler 
wrote:

> Hey Wrenchers,
>
> This is an installation with two Solaredge Storedge 7.6 inverters and the
> LG Chem Resu 10 batteries. When the utility goes down the two inverters for
> the solar switch over to back up mode and feed two separate dedicated loads
> panels. One panel works fine and all of the dedicated loads connected to it
> work as normal. Within the other panel there are just two loads, some
> lights and some sump pumps that are connected to a controller.
>
> Before the pumps will operate the controller that monitors their operation
> also monitors the utility voltage so that the pumps don't see too high or
> low of voltage from the utility (or back up power). In normal utility mode
> the controller works fine. However when the system switches to backup mode
> the controller trips off.
>
>  The voltage window for the pump controller is relatively narrow, however
> I'm not sure if that is the problem. The pump(s) will surge to a maximum of
> 20A at 240V for about a second and then hold between 7A-14A respectively.
> Which is within the operating window of the inverter (6600w surge 25A max
> continuous).
>
> I connected the controller load to my Eguage and logged the controllers
> usage both while connected to the utility and while connected to the
> battery back up. The data while connected to the utility is pretty typical
> with no irregularities. However when I switch to the battery side my
> logging disappears (measuring second by second and the results only show
> minutes). I believe that this is due to the inverter shutting down
> momentarily and then the Eguage needs to reboot. In all of the starting and
> stopping of the inverter I do see that the voltage spikes to L1-149V and
> L2-150V together with 299V L1&L2.
>
> Has anyone else encountered this problem before or something similar that
> may be able to offer some advice? I had an issue once before and added a
> 50mf capacitor to the line to smooth out the surge but this was for my home
> experiment and not a professional installation. Any luck with power line
> conditioners? Thanks in advance,
>
> Jon Siegenthaler
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Storedge LG Chem Resu Surge Fail

[Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar]

Hi Jon, 

I have zero experience with the LG RESU 10H hi voltage
battery. I assume resu10H is what you mean and not resu10? 

That said I
did alot of testing with Schneider and LG for their attempt to make a 48V
resu10 NMC offgrid system in 2017. 

Schneider had to derate XW+ to less
than it's full output to try and make LG Chem happy. In the end the project
ended and not much was said by either party. My input only is that
Solaredge is probably trying to protect the battery from the pump surge.
There is a heartbeat signal that the BMS needs from inverter to keep the
battery on. (major bad design for offgrid, my opinion.) No one does this
now as it is all internal to the battery. Even closed loop systems do not
use this heavy handed design approach. Much better ways these days to do
this reliably. 

The hi voltage you see, is it possible it is the unloading
of the inverter after a surge? I guess it would be hard to reverse the load
panels to test? Will think about this later some more. Good Luck!  

Dave
Angelini Offgrid Solar
"we go where powerlines
don't"
http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/ [1]
e-mail offgridso...@sti.net
[2]
text 209 813 0060

On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 10:14:46 -0500, Jon Siegenthaler 
wrote:   Hey Wrenchers,   This is an installation with two Solaredge
Storedge 7.6 inverters and the LG Chem Resu 10 batteries. When the utility
goes down the two inverters for the solar switch over to back up mode and
feed two separate dedicated loads panels. One panel works fine and all of
the dedicated loads connected to it work as normal. Within the other panel
there are just two loads, some lights and some sump pumps that are
connected to a controller.Before the pumps will operate the controller
that monitors their operation also monitors the utility voltage so that the
pumps don't see too high or low of voltage from the utility (or back up
power). In normal utility mode the controller works fine. However when the
system switches to backup mode the controller trips off.  The voltage
window for the pump controller is relatively narrow, however I'm not sure
if that is the problem. The pump(s) will surge to a maximum of 20A at 240V
for about a second and then hold between 7A-14A respectively. Which is
within the operating window of the inverter (6600w surge 25A max
continuous).I connected the controller load to my Eguage and logged the
controllers usage both while connected to the utility and while connected
to the battery back up. The data while connected to the utility is pretty
typical with no irregularities. However when I switch to the battery side
my logging disappears (measuring second by second and the results only show
minutes). I believe that this is due to the inverter shutting down
momentarily and then the Eguage needs to reboot. In all of the starting and
stopping of the inverter I do see that the voltage spikes to L1-149V and
L2-150V together with 299V L1">   Has anyone else encountered this problem
before or something similar that may be able to offer some advice? I had an
issue once before and added a 50mf capacitor to the line to smooth out the
surge but this was for my home experiment and not a professional
installation. Any luck with power line conditioners? Thanks in advance,  
Jon Siegenthaler  

Links:
--
[1]
http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/
[2] mailto:offgridso...@sti.net
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[RE-wrenches] Storedge LG Chem Resu Surge Fail

[Jon Siegenthaler]

 Hey Wrenchers,

This is an installation with two Solaredge Storedge 7.6 inverters and the
LG Chem Resu 10 batteries. When the utility goes down the two inverters for
the solar switch over to back up mode and feed two separate dedicated loads
panels. One panel works fine and all of the dedicated loads connected to it
work as normal. Within the other panel there are just two loads, some
lights and some sump pumps that are connected to a controller.

Before the pumps will operate the controller that monitors their operation
also monitors the utility voltage so that the pumps don't see too high or
low of voltage from the utility (or back up power). In normal utility mode
the controller works fine. However when the system switches to backup mode
the controller trips off.

 The voltage window for the pump controller is relatively narrow, however
I'm not sure if that is the problem. The pump(s) will surge to a maximum of
20A at 240V for about a second and then hold between 7A-14A respectively.
Which is within the operating window of the inverter (6600w surge 25A max
continuous).

I connected the controller load to my Eguage and logged the controllers
usage both while connected to the utility and while connected to the
battery back up. The data while connected to the utility is pretty typical
with no irregularities. However when I switch to the battery side my
logging disappears (measuring second by second and the results only show
minutes). I believe that this is due to the inverter shutting down
momentarily and then the Eguage needs to reboot. In all of the starting and
stopping of the inverter I do see that the voltage spikes to L1-149V and
L2-150V together with 299V L1&L2.

Has anyone else encountered this problem before or something similar that
may be able to offer some advice? I had an issue once before and added a
50mf capacitor to the line to smooth out the surge but this was for my home
experiment and not a professional installation. Any luck with power line
conditioners? Thanks in advance,

Jon Siegenthaler
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