Re: [Repeater-Builder] Registration is accepted
The attachment is infected. Neil - WA6KLA K wrote: Before use read the help --- Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. Name: Norton AntiVirus Norton AntiVirus Deleted1.txt Deleted1.txt Type: Plain Text (text/plain) Encoding: base64 --- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.3 - Release Date: 1/24/2005 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler?
Thanks for all replies. I have several of the Comet diplexers with PL-259's, one Pro-Am model, one Larsen, and one made by Daiwa. One person commented on the duplex noise and I tend to get alot of this from all of these except the Larsen, which burnt up several years back with 60 watts of UHF running through it. A 3.3 pico capacitor smoked, and I replaced it with two 5.6's in series and all worked OK, but I had to run the power down a little in order to keep things from smoking again. If you look closely the paperwork on the comets and diamonds say 200 watts but in the fine print, it says 200 watts SSB. I am planning to run one line of 7/8 up a 350 foot tower, but want 2M and 440 repeaters, with two separate antennas. I don't want to use a dual band antenna because the fiberglass comet and diamonds seem to disappear when hit by lightning.. I'd rather use 2 separate antennas and one feedline, and split it once up top and once on bottom. I plan to put the diplexer in a box atop the tower. One person mentioned replacing the pigtails on the unit to make the duplex noise disappear. I replaced the ones on my Daiwa unit with some small hardline used on microwave equipment that is RG-58 sized. The duplex noise went away. Thanks for the suggestions. 73, KC4FWC Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Registration is accepted --- VIRUS !!!
Yupper, my Norton caught it also! -Original Message- From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 5:03 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Registration is accepted --- VIRUS !!! The attachment of the previous message is infected. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler?
Good morning All, There is a small company called Austin that makes a very nice Diplexer even comes standard with type "N"'S in a nice copper box. They even make it for tri-band use. I be live HRO sells Austin. We have used them for some of the Hams on our tower to combine 3 repeater on to one hard-line type coax and the split it back off to three antennas up the tower. We have had a few working for many years with no problems. Very Best, Dean Westbrook, EE,PE. Cook Towers, INC. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: motorola R-100 repeater
well the program runs on my computer. somehow on the one R100 when you go to read the chips to program them it comes up with check sum error. this is one on the one repeater I need to programit is a DPL unit. any thought on how to get around this? - Original Message - From: Brian Poellnitz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 12:06 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: motorola R-100 repeater Best thing to try : Get the MoSlo program here... http://www.hpaa.com/moslo/ Use it at the default speed (IBM PC/AT 4Mhz). This should allow the R100.com program to run on most any system. If it still won't run, DISABLE CACHE in your CMOS setup and try again. Also, if you're dealing with a 450 split R100, you will probably have to hex edit the R100.com file to modify the allowable bandsplit. Directions to do so are here... http://www.batlabs.com/r100.html Good luck hope this helps. Brian, N4BWP --- motarolla_doctor [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Maire Company [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: had to reload the software into the computer. now when I go to read the repeater on rx or tx I get the same error. after it go thought read 1, 2, 3,and 4 when it gets to 5 it comes up with a check sum error. any thoughts help thanks Your computer may be way too fast, the R100 s/w is OLD, and does not run correctly on any faster than a old 286 10mhz with DOS 5xx or 6.0. You could also have a bad EEProm, or bad data in it, common problems. Yahoo! Groups Links __ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? http://my.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers
Good Morning to the group: Can someone who may have been there and done that tell me the best way to operate both CTCSS and CSQ Decode from a Micor Base converted into a repeater? Let me clarify what I would like to do ..I would like to be able to touch tone in CTCSS Decode when needed. The majority of the time I want to run CSQ. In studying the manual it appears that CTCSS is active high and CSQ is active low. I thought of converting them to the same active COR state and them just switching the COR input to the controller, but is CSQ present when the CTCSS switch is in the decode position? I have to believe this has been done by some of you, so I would appreciate your input. Thanks in advance guys! 73 JIM KA2AJH Wellsville, N.Y. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers
Hi Jim, The choice of Sub-Tone (ctcss) operation vs carrier squelch is most often done with the controller software once you have a PL Detect logic line routed to the controller. If you use the Squelch Gate Module to external repeater controller mod, the PL logic line is included with the conversion. www.radiowrench.com/sonic If you've already completed a different mod, you could ues the PL detect logic/pin on the back plane at the squelch gate module if the Micor PL detect/encode boards are in place. good luck skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com Jim Cicirello [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good Morning to the group: Can someone who may have been there and done that tell me the best way to operate both CTCSS and CSQ Decode from a Micor Base converted into a repeater? Let me clarify what I would like to do ..I would like to be able to touch tone in CTCSS Decode when needed. The majority of the time I want to run CSQ. In studying the manual it appears that CTCSS is active high and CSQ is active low. I thought of converting them to the same active COR state and them just switching the COR input to the controller, but is CSQ present when the CTCSS switch is in the decode position? I have to believe this has been done by some of you, so I would appreciate your input. Thanks in advance guys! 73 JIM KA2AJH Wellsville, N.Y. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] r-100 ham version
If you use the info on Batlabs, the hex edit for the UHF unit is only changing 2 bytes. Don't get much easier than that. Dig in there ;) 73's es good luck, Brian, N4BWP --- kenwoodribs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: anybody know how to change the r-100 (easily) rss so that it programs into the ham bands - i saw an old version floating around years ago called r100 ham - seems easier than hex editing etc - __ Do you Yahoo!? Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today! http://my.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] MTR-2000
Title: MTR-2000 I'm looking to set up a Doug Hall voter system on a Motorola MTR-2000 repeater. I called DHE but they dont have any interface information for that repeater available. Wondering if anyone else has done this and might have the connection and config information to connect these 2 together. The system is currently in repeater mode. The only thing Duane was aware of was that the unit might need to be configured in base station mode as opposed to repeater mode to gain access to the TX and RX audio, COR, etc, but wasnt 100% sure what needed to be done. TIA to all. Kevin K2KMB Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers
Jim Cicirello wrote: Good Morning to the group: Can someone who may have been there and done that tell me the best way to operate both CTCSS and CSQ Decode from a Micor Base converted into a repeater? Let me clarify what I would like to do..I would like to be able to touch tone in CTCSS Decode when needed. The majority of the time I want to run CSQ. What controller are you running, or are you using stock control cards? In studying the manual it appears that CTCSS is active high and CSQ is active low. Correct, but the COS logic can be changed to Active High: http://www.repeater-builder.com/pix/cosswitch.gif I thought of converting them to the same active COR state and them just switching the COR input to the controller, but is CSQ present when the CTCSS switch is in the decode position? Again, what piece of equipment are we talking about when you refer to the CTCSS switch? A stock card or something else? Kevin Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] A DCI 2M/440 dual band window filter
Cross band thoughts... Since you're dealing with Amateur Bands, the best way to go might the use of the DCI dual band 146/440 filter, which also functions as a diplexer. The advantages are true window filtering vs high-pass low-pass operation (of a more generic diplexer) and a more rugged construction/capacity against high energy discharges. The cost is actually quite a bit higher, but you'd probably need to lay out the bucks one time. DCI will also custome build filters, I now have them make commercial repeater window filters for me and they work just killer. You'd also get a true DC ground/return on the feedline. Get a true dc grounded metal antenna at the top of the tower. Decibel, Sinclar, Cushcraft and Antennex make loop repeater antennas that have quite a bit of gain. The US West Coast in Northern California trades away Tornados, Huricanes and lightning storms for Earthquakes, Smog, packed freeways, high home prices and bad drivers. Its just cheaper for us out to run a repeater without the bad lightning storms. I've had a Comet Tri and Di- plexer in operation for years without fail. I consider myself luck although I do monitor the feedline swr (reflected power and mis-match) for trouble. The dual band DCI unit will probably fit your needs, but you'd have to buy two if you don't run duplexers. cheers skipp www.radiowrench.com/sonic derek_mcintyre [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks for all replies. I have several of the Comet diplexers with PL-259's, one Pro-Am model, one Larsen, and one made by Daiwa. One person commented on the duplex noise and I tend to get alot of this from all of these except the Larsen, which burnt up several years back with 60 watts of UHF running through it. A 3.3 pico capacitor smoked, and I replaced it with two 5.6's in series and all worked OK, but I had to run the power down a little in order to keep things from smoking again. If you look closely the paperwork on the comets and diamonds say 200 watts but in the fine print, it says 200 watts SSB. I am planning to run one line of 7/8 up a 350 foot tower, but want 2M and 440 repeaters, with two separate antennas. I don't want to use a dual band antenna because the fiberglass comet and diamonds seem to disappear when hit by lightning.. I'd rather use 2 separate antennas and one feedline, and split it once up top and once on bottom. I plan to put the diplexer in a box atop the tower. One person mentioned replacing the pigtails on the unit to make the duplex noise disappear. I replaced the ones on my Daiwa unit with some small hardline used on microwave equipment that is RG-58 sized. The duplex noise went away. Thanks for the suggestions. 73, KC4FWC Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MTR-2000
At 08:50 AM 2/2/05, you wrote: I'm looking to set up a Doug Hall voter system on a Motorola MTR-2000 repeater. I called DHE but they dont have any interface information for that repeater available. Wondering if anyone else has done this and might have the connection and config information to connect these 2 together. The system is currently in repeater mode. The only thing Duane was aware of was that the unit might need to be configured in base station mode as opposed to repeater mode to gain access to the TX and RX audio, COR, etc, but wasnt 100% sure what needed to be done. TIA to all. Kevin K2KMB Go to www.repeater-builder.com, and then select the motorola page. There is an article on interfacing the MTR to an external controller there, and that article probably has the info you need. If not, the author's email address is at the end of the file. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
RE: [SPAM] - Re: [Repeater-Builder] MTR-2000 - Email found in subject
Thanks Mike, I already grabbed it. ;) According to the info in the article it does look like you need to set it up as a "remoted" base to get the TX and RX audio, etc. to the back panel connector, so it looks like the internal controller cant be used and needs to be replaced. At least thats my take on it. ;) I emailed Bob on it anyway just to see what he says. Kevin K2KMB From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 1:31 PMTo: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comSubject: [SPAM] - Re: [Repeater-Builder] MTR-2000 - Email found in subject At 08:50 AM 2/2/05, you wrote: I'm looking to set up a Doug Hall voter system on a Motorola MTR-2000 repeater. I called DHE but they dont have any interface information for that repeater available. Wondering if anyone else has done this and might have the connection and config information to connect these 2 together. The system is currently in repeater mode. The only thing Duane was aware of was that the unit might need to be configured in base station mode as opposed to repeater mode to gain access to the TX and RX audio, COR, etc, but wasnt 100% sure what needed to be done. TIA to all.Kevin K2KMBGo to www.repeater-builder.com, and then select the motorola page. There is an article on interfacing the MTR to an external controller there, and that article probably has the info you need. If not, the author's email address is at the end of the file.Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler?
At 2/2/2005 06:12 AM, you wrote: Good morning All, There is a small company called Austin that makes a very nice Diplexer even comes standard with type N'S in a nice copper box. They even make it for tri-band We bought one several years ago specifically for diplexing a VHF UHF system onto one antenna. However the box was not well assembled IMO the loss on the 440 side was high (0.75 dB, their spec. was 0.5 dB). I was able to get the loss to just above 0.5 dB by drilling out the rivets, opening the case adjusting something on the circuit board (can't remember just what). This was all done on a VNA so band isolation was not compromised. Even after the tuning the loss would go up if the connectors were flexed due to the flimsy case, so we ended up using a Comet duplexer instead. Much lower loss. I also have an Austin triplexer that is much older. The construction of that unit is rock solid: well shielded connectors don't flex at all. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers
Hi Kevin: To answer your question: I am running a Cat-200 Controller. The switch I was referring to is the PL Disable on the Motorola Card. This is the repeater you converted for me and I am getting ready to put in the tone reed. It is my understanding that when I do that, it will go to CTCSS, until I switch the PL Disable off, then it will go to CSQ. I am looking for the best way to use both CTCSS and CSQ and control it thru the Cat-200 with Tones. Thanks JIM -Original Message- From: Kevin Custer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 1:09 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers Jim Cicirello wrote: Good Morning to the group: Can someone who may have been there and done that tell me the best way to operate both CTCSS and CSQ Decode from a Micor Base converted into a repeater? Let me clarify what I would like to do...I would like to be able to touch tone in CTCSS Decode when needed. The majority of the time I want to run CSQ. What controller are you running, or are you using stock control cards? In studying the manual it appears that CTCSS is active high and CSQ is active low. Correct, but the COS logic can be changed to Active High: http://www.repeater-builder.com/pix/cosswitch.gif I thought of converting them to the same active COR state and them just switching the COR input to the controller, but is CSQ present when the CTCSS switch is in the decode position? Again, what piece of equipment are we talking about when you refer to the CTCSS switch? A stock card or something else? Kevin Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers
First off, does your controller have separate COR and PL inputs? Just so you're clear on how Micor PL and noise squelch work, here's a little refresher. As configured stock, on a Micor, when PL is decoded, it will override the noise squelch. In other words, if it sees PL, the squelch will open, no matter how noisy the signal is or how tight you have the squelch set to. Likewise, it will open the squelch whether you have the PL disable turned on or off. On a stock Micor, if PL's there, the squelch opens no matter what. With PL disable turned on, carrier squelch OR PL decode will open the receive audio paths. With PL disable turned off, PL decode must be present to open the receive audio paths, and they won't close until PL drops out regardless of the squelch setting. Generally this is not what you want in a typical amateur installation when you want take advantage of the legendary (?) Micor squelch action AND be able to use the PL decoder. Generally speaking, when using a Micor in amateur service, if you want PL decode, what you're really looking for is COR AND PL, with COR operating independently of PL within the Micor station. In other words, the COR and PL should be AND'ed together externally (either via circuitry, or by using a controller that has an AND squelch access mode with separate PL and COR inputs. There is a Micor AND squelch modification, but with modern controllers, it's usually best to let the controller do the work which gives you the flexibility of going into COR-only or COR-and-PL modes by DTMF control. To start off, you can isolate the PL decode from the squelch circuit by cutting a jumper on the audio/squelch card. I don't have a manual in front of me, but if you look at where the PL indicate line comes from the PL decoder into the last squelch IC, you want to open the circuit there. You also want to leave PL disabled, i.e. don't ground the PL disable line. This allows the noise squelch to operate. After doing the above, you will have an independent PL indicate line (+9.6 when decoding, high-Z when not decoding). You may need to lift the pull-up in your controller, and/or add a pull-down, to deal with those logic levels. The COR on the Micor can be taken off the audio/squelch board. It, too, should be active-high. Depending on what other cards are in the shelf, it usually idles around 3 or 4 volts when the squelch is open, but you don't want to try to source any current from it. When the squelch is closed, it sinks current. For most controllers, just putting a diode in series (cathode towards Micor) should work if there is a pullup on the controller's COR line built in. There can be other COR-like lines in a Micor station, but it depends on what cards you have installed. Where are you taking COR from presently? --- Jeff -- Jeff DePolo WN3A Broadcast and Communications Consultant -Original Message- From: Jim Cicirello [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 11:25 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers Good Morning to the group: Can someone who may have been there and done that tell me the best way to operate both CTCSS and CSQ Decode from a Micor Base converted into a repeater? Let me clarify what I would like to do..I would like to be able to touch tone in CTCSS Decode when needed. The majority of the time I want to run CSQ. In studying the manual it appears that CTCSS is active high and CSQ is active low. I thought of converting them to the same active COR state and them just switching the COR input to the controller, but is CSQ present when the CTCSS switch is in the decode position? I have to believe this has been done by some of you, so I would appreciate your input. Thanks in advance guys! 73 JIM KA2AJH Wellsville, N.Y. Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.3 - Release Date: 1/31/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.3 - Release Date: 1/31/2005 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers
Hi Skipp: I am using the CAT-200 Controller and have the logic line from the CTCSS I have not hooked up yet. I will get my Controller Book out and do some more reading. Thanks for the reply. 73 JIM KA2AJH -Original Message- From: skipp025 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 11:43 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Select CTCSS and CSQ on Micor Receivers Hi Jim, The choice of Sub-Tone (ctcss) operation vs carrier squelch is most often done with the controller software once you have a PL Detect logic line routed to the controller. If you use the Squelch Gate Module to external repeater controller mod, the PL logic line is included with the conversion. www.radiowrench.com/sonic If you've already completed a different mod, you could ues the PL detect logic/pin on the back plane at the squelch gate module if the Micor PL detect/encode boards are in place. good luck skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com Jim Cicirello [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good Morning to the group: Can someone who may have been there and done that tell me the best way to operate both CTCSS and CSQ Decode from a Micor Base converted into a repeater? Let me clarify what I would like to do...I would like to be able to touch tone in CTCSS Decode when needed. The majority of the time I want to run CSQ. In studying the manual it appears that CTCSS is active high and CSQ is active low. I thought of converting them to the same active COR state and them just switching the COR input to the controller, but is CSQ present when the CTCSS switch is in the decode position? I have to believe this has been done by some of you, so I would appreciate your input. Thanks in advance guys! 73 JIM KA2AJH Wellsville, N.Y. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler?
Derek, Take a look at this one. You can build your own and by choosing components you can can handle all the power you want: http://home.datacomm.ch/hb9abx/duplexer.html and for hf-6/2/70cm: http://home.datacomm.ch/hb9abx/diplhf6m-vuhf.html The weak link will be the capacitors and you can build it with small air variables or your choice of better components. The components in this home brew one are about the same you'll find in most amateur grade diplexers these days. As for amateur grade diplexers, I've had good results with the Comet 2/70cm unit with SO-239 connectors on my 2 meter and 70 cm repeaters. I also had a problem with the units that had pigtails... stay away from them. 73, Tony W4ZT derek_mcintyre wrote: Hello Group, Does anyone have, or know where I can get plans to homebrew a 144/440 MHz crossband coupler (aka diplexer) ?? I would like to find something with wideband characteristics (ie, low pass, high pass) such as some of the diamond or comet models, but needs to be able to handle 100 watts FM continuously from each band, without excessive loss and without duplex noise, or little capacitors smoking. Any suggestions, other than the Telewave models that cost over $300? Thanks, KC4FWC Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] RE: Austin tri-plexers.
Hello All, We must have one of the (well two) of the older units. We have one of your 222 repeaters on one of Cook Towers sites and that is what they installed. One club is on two meters, we are on 222 and the two meter group has a 440 link to some where. We are all using the 1 and 5/8s run going up the tower and it has worked very well for many years the Austin tri-plexter. They are the ones in a cooper box in the tower building and the one up many hundreds of feet is water proof I would think I have never viewed that end. We do have a RFS PD-220 antenna up there but is has been there for many years as well. The bottom line is we have had good luck with an older Austin. I guess they have changed or something. 73 Russ, W3CH - Original Message - From: Bob Dengler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 2:49 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler? At 2/2/2005 06:12 AM, you wrote: Good morning All, There is a small company called Austin that makes a very nice Diplexer even comes standard with type N'S in a nice copper box. They even make it for tri-band We bought one several years ago specifically for diplexing a VHF UHF system onto one antenna. However the box was not well assembled IMO the loss on the 440 side was high (0.75 dB, their spec. was 0.5 dB). I was able to get the loss to just above 0.5 dB by drilling out the rivets, opening the case adjusting something on the circuit board (can't remember just what). This was all done on a VNA so band isolation was not compromised. Even after the tuning the loss would go up if the connectors were flexed due to the flimsy case, so we ended up using a Comet duplexer instead. Much lower loss. I also have an Austin triplexer that is much older. The construction of that unit is rock solid: well shielded connectors don't flex at all. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Found Answer to Micor CTCSS and CAS Question.
Thanks to Kevin, Jeff and Skipp for pointing me in the right direction on hooking up the CTCSS on my MICOR so it would work CSQ and CTCSS. I was trying to make things more difficult than they needed to be. When Kevin asked about my controller, I went to the CAT- 200 Manual and sure enough there is a dual input for both CAS and CTCSS that can be turned on by tone. I just need to talk this question out and get pushed in the right direction. Also I am sure many can benefit from the excellent overview Jeff gave on the Micor Squelch, which is now in my Manual. Thanks guys for all the help. 73 JIM KA2AJH Wellsville, N.Y. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Found Answer to Micor CTCSS and CAS Question.
Hi Jim, After my last post, it came to me that some people are possibly using micor mobiles, which have a different pl function the way I did my last mobile. I also didn't ask if your amateur conversion used the original micor modules as some conversions remove most or all the back plane modules. The answer would be different depending on which conversion used. The micor sub tone detector lives on small daughter boards in the receiver section. I'm sure the valid tone decoded logic can be obtained on the back plane through/via the interconnect board (base repeater micor). This is the pl detect logic line you need to run to your controller. My mod takes the same line from the squelch gate module. The back plane mod can take it from the logic pin of the squelch gate module position. good luck cheers, skipp www.radiowrench.com/sonic Jim Cicirello [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks to Kevin, Jeff and Skipp for pointing me in the right direction on hooking up the CTCSS on my MICOR so it would work CSQ and CTCSS. I was trying to make things more difficult than they needed to be. When Kevin asked about my controller, I went to the CAT- 200 Manual and sure enough there is a dual input for both CAS and CTCSS that can be turned on by tone. I just need to talk this question out and get pushed in the right direction. Also I am sure many can benefit from the excellent overview Jeff gave on the Micor Squelch, which is now in my Manual. Thanks guys for all the help. 73 JIM KA2AJH Wellsville, N.Y. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Found Answer to Micor CTCSS and CAS Question.
Hi Skipp: My repeater is the converted Base. I had the logic line, I was thinking I had to make a circuit to switch between the CAS and CTCSS lines, I didn't think about the controller CTCSS circuit which was there all the time. That is why I like this list I can get pushed in the right direction. I have to find the sub tone detector board, which I have in my junk boxes. Is there a difference between the TX and RX boards? As I recall they look the same. I haven't been to the tower to try fitting them yet. 73 JIM KA2AJH Thanks SKIPP JIM KA2AJH -Original Message- From: skipp025 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 8:03 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Found Answer to Micor CTCSS and CAS Question. Hi Jim, After my last post, it came to me that some people are possibly using micor mobiles, which have a different pl function the way I did my last mobile. I also didn't ask if your amateur conversion used the original micor modules as some conversions remove most or all the back plane modules. The answer would be different depending on which conversion used. The micor sub tone detector lives on small daughter boards in the receiver section. I'm sure the valid tone decoded logic can be obtained on the back plane through/via the interconnect board (base repeater micor). This is the pl detect logic line you need to run to your controller. My mod takes the same line from the squelch gate module. The back plane mod can take it from the logic pin of the squelch gate module position. good luck cheers, skipp www.radiowrench.com/sonic Jim Cicirello [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks to Kevin, Jeff and Skipp for pointing me in the right direction on hooking up the CTCSS on my MICOR so it would work CSQ and CTCSS. I was trying to make things more difficult than they needed to be. When Kevin asked about my controller, I went to the CAT- 200 Manual and sure enough there is a dual input for both CAS and CTCSS that can be turned on by tone. I just need to talk this question out and get pushed in the right direction. Also I am sure many can benefit from the excellent overview Jeff gave on the Micor Squelch, which is now in my Manual. Thanks guys for all the help. 73 JIM KA2AJH Wellsville, N.Y. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] r100 help complete
thx 4 the r100 help - i got what i needed - thank you Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] 6meter cavities
I am the RF engineer for a repeater system that includes a 6m repeater that has a hybrid-ring duplexer. Sitting next to the duplexer is a pair of DB_PRODUCTS tall cavities that are not connected to anything. Themodel number on the name plate is "DB-4041 H-2". Now I see references to a DB-4042 in the range of 30-60 MHz. Anybody know what a DB-4041 cavity is? Does anyone on the remailer have one (or two) of these such that we might negotiate a buy? I'd like to turn these into a BpBr cavity duplexer. Roger Hansen, W6TOZ 53.55/r Auburn, WA Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] RG 9 and RG 55
Anyone have any specs and or opinionson RG 9 and RG 55 coax? I came across a repeater that has RG 55 for interconnections between the duplexer cans, and RG 9 between the transmitterand duplexer, receiver and duplexer, and duplexer and antenna. I had never seen these coax before, and wondered abouttheir specs and capability in duplex service. T.J. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler?
I've got a Comet diplexer that has been combining a 2 meter repeater a UHF repeater for about 3 years. The antenna was a Comet GP-15 (2m/6m/440) fed with about 70 feet of 7/8 inch heliax. While antenna sharing using a Comet for the repeater antenna was certainly not my preference, my UHF repeater showed very little if any difference from the former 8 bay open dipole it had been using in the exact same spot. My coverage hearing weak signals seemed to stay about the same. The UHF duplexer is a Phelps-Dodge 6 cavity pass/reject going in to a Micor receiver with an ARR pre-amp and an extra Motorola pass cavity. The transmitter is 30 watts. I can't answer for any changes on the 2 meter side as it is not my repeater was a new addition to the location. (a LNG complicated story in ham radio politics brought me to the situation of sharing my location) The 2 meter duplexer is a Tx-Rx 4 cavity reject only. The transmitter is 30 watts. The changes I did make: On the Comet diplexer, I removed the UHF connectors replaced them with N connectors. I re-inforced the connections to the center pins made sure the grounds of the connectors were very well grounded to the shell of the diplexer. I also insisted that the other repeater use Rg-214 for their jumpers I gave them about a 20 foot piece to make their jumpers with. Our repeaters are about 10 feet apart from each other. My system already used Rg-214 for all jumpers except for one very short Rg-223 jumper in a tight spot. The only troubles I did have was audio from the 10 watt college FM radio station coming in on audio input for my internet connection to the repeater. A few ferrite beads immediately stopped it. (their antenna is about 20 feet above mine) -- Original Message -- Received: Wed, 02 Feb 2005 07:36:41 AM CST From: derek_mcintyre [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler? Thanks for all replies. I have several of the Comet diplexers with PL-259's, one Pro-Am model, one Larsen, and one made by Daiwa. One person commented on the duplex noise and I tend to get alot of this from all of these except the Larsen, which burnt up several years back with 60 watts of UHF running through it. A 3.3 pico capacitor smoked, and I replaced it with two 5.6's in series and all worked OK, but I had to run the power down a little in order to keep things from smoking again. If you look closely the paperwork on the comets and diamonds say 200 watts but in the fine print, it says 200 watts SSB. I am planning to run one line of 7/8 up a 350 foot tower, but want 2M and 440 repeaters, with two separate antennas. I don't want to use a dual band antenna because the fiberglass comet and diamonds seem to disappear when hit by lightning.. I'd rather use 2 separate antennas and one feedline, and split it once up top and once on bottom. I plan to put the diplexer in a box atop the tower. One person mentioned replacing the pigtails on the unit to make the duplex noise disappear. I replaced the ones on my Daiwa unit with some small hardline used on microwave equipment that is RG-58 sized. The duplex noise went away. Thanks for the suggestions. 73, KC4FWC Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] RG 9 and RG 55
Coax Style 100loss400 Ohms Vel. Cap per Ft. O.D. Shield Notes Belden 8242 (RG-9/U type) 2.10 4.80 51 .66 30.0 pF0.42 98% silver inner . double shield RG-5518.5 34.0 53.5 .66 28.5 pF .216 ?PE dialectric Hope you can read that OK... Joe M. T.J. wrote: Anyone have any specs and or opinions on RG 9 and RG 55 coax? I came across a repeater that has RG 55 for interconnections between the duplexer cans, and RG 9 between the transmitter and duplexer, receiver and duplexer, and duplexer and antenna. I had never seen these coax before, and wondered about their specs and capability in duplex service. T.J. --- Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
