Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor UHF Sensivity
2V AC down to .2 v. AC is 20 DB quieting John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Tim Sawyer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 3:48 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor UHF Sensivity I'm getting about 0.35 for 12 db SINAD. But that looks about 10 db quieting to me. What I typically do is open the squelch with no signal and set the volume to 2 Vac then crank up the signal to 0.2 vac. Isn't that 20 db, or am I missing something? -- Tim :wq On Sep 6, 2010, at 10:46 AM, Eric Lemmon wrote: spec is 0.5 uV without a preamp and 0.25 uV with a preamp, when using the 20 dB quieting method, and 0.35 and 0.175 respectively when using the 12 dB SINAD method
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Interference on VHF repeater
Bret, you might have your PA going in to oscillation creating the spurs due to a highly reactive duplexer. We had a similar problem here many years ago and fixed it with a simple tuner on the TX similar ot the GE Z matcher . The one that we used was Home Brew. When the tuner was adjusted for minimum VSWR, the spurs went away. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: brett brett_daw...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 7:26 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Interference on VHF repeater Hi all, I have come across an interesting problem which you may be able to shed some light on. I have an intermod issue where my TX sometimes opens up my RX. I have the distinctive hollow pipe sound. Both TX and RX have the same CTCSS tone. The intermod product is however not always present, and after looking at the RX output from the duplexer with a SA I see a comb of products that move slowly in time. When one of the products in the comb falls within the RX bandwidth the RX opens, until it moves on. This is not a busy site, and I have been able to power down everything on site except my repeater. Problem remains unchanged. I have also disconnected feeders from all other RF equipment on site - still no change. The fact that the IM product frequency changes with time (drift rate is roughly a few kHz's an hour) makes me think that there is either another unknown source of RF on site which has poor freq stability (pretty unlikley), or somehow my TX freq is involved in producing this freq. I have inserted a 6dB pad in the antenna port of the duplexer and found that the IM products drop 12dB, and also curiously, the frequency of the products change. Removing the pad reverses this effect. I have repeated this many times and the result was always the same. It appears that the frequency of the IM product is dependent on the strength of the radiated field from my antenna. This is my question: I have read that it is possible for a strong EM field to excite metal (eg tower member) such that re-radiation will occur at a frequency which is different from that which excited it. Can anyone confirm they have seen this, or can anyone point me to a reference that talks about this? I should also mention there are multiple solar panels and associated regulators on site. The regulators have been discounted as possible sources, but the panels (given they may have bypass/blocking diodes) may be a mixing location, however the source of the drifting tone is still unclear. Thanks, Brett VK2CBD. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk
Eric, you're singing my tune ! I've used that stuff for many years now and it is really great. It was developed here in Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada by DW Electrochemicals. As you know only a very small amount is needed on the surface to be effective. The last bottle that I purchased here in Waterloo cost around $35.00. I'd bet that Electro-Sonic would carry it and they are now in the Buffalo areamight be quite a bit cheaper than the Motorola price... John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 2:13 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Tom, Motorola does not now, and never has, recommended DeOxit or any other contact enhancer gunk besides Stabilant 22. Up until just a few years ago, Motorola specified Stabilant 22A, under part number 1180369E78, which is a mixture of pure Stabilant 22 and isopropyl alcohol. Today, Motorola sells a kit under part number 1180384V93 which comprises a 5 ml bottle of pure Stabilant 22, an empty 15 ml bottle, and some tiny swabs. The user then puts 2.5 ml of the Stabilant 22 into the 15 ml bottle and adds 10 ml of 99% isopropanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22A, or adds 10 ml of pure ethanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22E. Either solution is extremely effective if applied wet to clean connectors immediately before mating. It is also effective in curing intermittent contacts in card-edge connectors in PCs and electronic instruments. The alcohol solvent is essential for the product to work; undiluted Stabilant 22 is ineffective. Drug-store isopropyl alcohol, aka rubbing alcohol, should not be used since it is diluted with water and will interfere with Stabilant's action. The 1180384V93 kit is sold by Motorola Parts for about $47, but is sufficient to last for years. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of w9srv Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 10:28 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Hi Guys! I am in the middle of rebuilding a receive site for one of the area repeaters and have come across some interesting Pin Gunk. I've been told that Motorola techs years ago used to apply some kind of goo to help with the connection on all the backplane pins, etc, but I don't know if this is what that is. This receive site has been developing some intermittant issues on several fronts, and maybe this explains them. The problem with this gunk is that is is non-conductive and a real bugger to clean off. DeOxit seems to work the best. I made this quick video last night showing this on the pins of the power control board. Here is the link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmWumkQetdY Has anyone else ever come across this? Are there any other steps other than cleaning it off to ensure it will not be another problem in the future? Thanks! Tom W9SRV Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk
Eric, I checked the web site for DW Electrochemicals and they mention that Electro-Sonic no longer carries their productwe'll have to ask Marty VE3MR what the problem is (he's the owner) Primespec here in Waterloo is where I get mine but shipping might be quite expensive to the USA. None the less it's a great product. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 3:26 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk John, I did not find Stabilant listed in the Electro-Sonic online catalog, but I did find the identical kit at Micro-Tools for only $38, here: www.micro-tools.com/store/P-22/Stabilant-22-5ml-Kit-Makes-30ml-Of-22a.aspx I also found that Amazon sells the same kit as Micro-Tools, and for the same price of $38. I should point out that the kit does NOT make 30 ml of solution, as the listing implies; if the instructions are followed exactly- adding 10 ml of alcohol to 2.5 ml of pure Stabilant- the kit will make a total of 25 ml of solution. That's because the 15 ml bottle is filled only to the 12.5 ml point, where the bottle begins to narrow. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John J. Riddell Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 11:47 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Eric, you're singing my tune ! I've used that stuff for many years now and it is really great. It was developed here in Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada by DW Electrochemicals. As you know only a very small amount is needed on the surface to be effective. The last bottle that I purchased here in Waterloo cost around $35.00. I'd bet that Electro-Sonic would carry it and they are now in the Buffalo areamight be quite a bit cheaper than the Motorola price... John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 2:13 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Tom, Motorola does not now, and never has, recommended DeOxit or any other contact enhancer gunk besides Stabilant 22. Up until just a few years ago, Motorola specified Stabilant 22A, under part number 1180369E78, which is a mixture of pure Stabilant 22 and isopropyl alcohol. Today, Motorola sells a kit under part number 1180384V93 which comprises a 5 ml bottle of pure Stabilant 22, an empty 15 ml bottle, and some tiny swabs. The user then puts 2.5 ml of the Stabilant 22 into the 15 ml bottle and adds 10 ml of 99% isopropanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22A, or adds 10 ml of pure ethanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22E. Either solution is extremely effective if applied wet to clean connectors immediately before mating. It is also effective in curing intermittent contacts in card-edge connectors in PCs and electronic instruments. The alcohol solvent is essential for the product to work; undiluted Stabilant 22 is ineffective. Drug-store isopropyl alcohol, aka rubbing alcohol, should not be used since it is diluted with water and will interfere with Stabilant's action. The 1180384V93 kit is sold by Motorola Parts for about $47, but is sufficient to last for years. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of w9srv Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 10:28 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Pin Gunk Hi Guys! I am in the middle of rebuilding a receive site for one of the area repeaters and have come across some interesting Pin Gunk. I've been told that Motorola techs years ago used to apply some kind of goo to help with the connection on all the backplane pins, etc, but I don't know if this is what that is. This receive site has been developing some intermittant issues on several fronts, and maybe this explains them. The problem with this gunk is that is is non-conductive and a real bugger to clean off. DeOxit seems to work the best. I made this quick video last night showing this on the pins of the power control board. Here is the link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmWumkQetdY Has anyone else ever come across this? Are there any other steps other than cleaning it off to ensure it will not be another problem in the future? Thanks! Tom W9SRV Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups
[Repeater-Builder] Can a KLN 6210A vibrasender be substituted for a KLN 6209A vibrasponder?
I have an MSR 2000 repeater that I want to change the PL frequency on. Does anyone know if a KLN 6210A vibrasender will work in place of a KLN 6209A vibrasponder on the MSR 2000 PL board? Curiously, Brian Henry, WB6QED
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MVP problem
Steve, the orange wire goes to J 910 (J10) on the system audio sq. board, but it looks like this is just a connecting point (Holding point) as it does not connect to anything on that board. J10 is just above the center of J6 which is a 6 pin strip connector at the edge of the board. There are two strip connectors on that side of the board, and J6 is on the left when the second one J5 is on the right. To the right of J5 are a bunch of wire connections H11 to H17 The interconnect page shows a dotted line from the orange wire that would be on J10 to the channel guard board J1001. I presume that this is a mod if you add channel guard. It is labelled as Channel Guard disable I have quite a bunch of these MVP's so if this info doesn't help I can open one up and have a look. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: steve w4...@localnet.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 10:27 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MVP problem Hi John, I am certain this wire goes to the audio squelch board that is under the front panelwhere does it hook up there?? 73s Steve --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John J. Riddell ve3...@... wrote: Steve, that orange wire is Channel Guard disable. It goes to P1001, J910, then to J1001 on the Channel Guard board. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: steve w4...@... To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem Hello all, A friend gave me his MVP UHF repeater to work on. The audio squelch board was bad and I replaced it. I made what I HOPE was all the tracings and jumper connections on this board by copying the old board. The problem is that there is NO audio on the transmitter output when the squelch is opened up. I can hear squelch fine on the transmit output when I press the TEST switch on the front. The squelch control has no effect of course on the squelch while in the test position. There is an ORANGE wire that is connected to this switch on the front but is not connected-like it is broken off from the board. Does this have anything to do with the squelch? The repeater keys up fine when I open the squelch but no squelch noise is present-like it is being muted. When I press the test switch I can hear my audio on a monitor receiver fine when I transmit thru the repeater with my hand held. WHERE does this orange wire from the switch go? Is this the problem? Thanks for any help! Steve W4SEF Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Ralph, I think Eric Lemmon has explained it very well...but I work for a large telecommunications company here in Canada and we put AGM / VRLA batteries in equipment cabinets all the time and never had a problem. They are mounted on a steel shelf with a rubber mat below them. We do use very high quality charging equipment and regularly monitor the internal Impedance of the batteries. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ralph S. Turk To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 5:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries I would NEVER put any electronics in the battery enclosure. All batteries are known to vent some vapor. Even very little acid or basic vapor will ruin the electronics Been there, have the ruined controller to prove it. Ralph, W7HSG - Original Message - From: tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 7, 2010 2:05:09 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem
Steve, that orange wire is Channel Guard disable. It goes to P1001, J910, then to J1001 on the Channel Guard board. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: steve w4...@localnet.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem Hello all, A friend gave me his MVP UHF repeater to work on. The audio squelch board was bad and I replaced it. I made what I HOPE was all the tracings and jumper connections on this board by copying the old board. The problem is that there is NO audio on the transmitter output when the squelch is opened up. I can hear squelch fine on the transmit output when I press the TEST switch on the front. The squelch control has no effect of course on the squelch while in the test position. There is an ORANGE wire that is connected to this switch on the front but is not connected-like it is broken off from the board. Does this have anything to do with the squelch? The repeater keys up fine when I open the squelch but no squelch noise is present-like it is being muted. When I press the test switch I can hear my audio on a monitor receiver fine when I transmit thru the repeater with my hand held. WHERE does this orange wire from the switch go? Is this the problem? Thanks for any help! Steve W4SEF Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Mobile Repeater?
John, In it's former life it probably was a mobile telephone. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: La Rue Communications To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 7:28 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Mobile Repeater? Gentlemen (And Ladies) I have a MASTR II Exec mobile here, I think its a UHF Repeater. I want to confirm with you - but I am curious what RCC stands for. Comb number YS55SSXX88A. Nothing comes up on Google and not sure which Comb spec sheet to look this up with Hall Electronics or here on RB Archives. Thanks for your input! John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Simrex - GLB Pre-Selector Pre-Amplifier
That is the system on my uhf repeater. It's sensitivity is unmatched with this setup. I'm using one moto t1500 can before my arr gasfet preamp in a nema enclosure at 100 feet on the tower. The 9db rx only antenna sits 15 feet above that at 110 with the TX antenna 50 feet below at about 60 feet. Ldf5 from the enclosure to one wacom bandpass before receiver, ldf4 from the the 2 bandpass cans to the TX antenna. Hamtronics rx on this one... Ross Kc7rjk Jack Chomley ra...@irock.com.au wrote: Bob, Some of us are geographically disadvantaged when it comes to availability of equipment. Here in rural Australia, anything secondhand for Amateur Repeater construction is rare, shipping of anything is expensive. From what I read on the group, the U.S. Is overloaded with surplus equipment, sometimes at bargain prices. For me to buy and ship that cheap 1/4 wave can and pre-amp would be more expensive than buying a new Simrex Pre-Selector :-) Since this is a hobby for me...not a paid commercial day job I will take the chance on the NF aspect and have my fun experimenting and testing :-) IF the Simrex-GLB product did not perform..the word would spread faster than the Black Plague and no one would buy them 73, Jack. VK4JRC Sent from my Apple iPad Tablet PC On Jul 31, 2010, at 11:30 PM, n...@no6b.com wrote: At 7/30/2010 08:31, you wrote: Re: Simrex - GLB Pre-Selector Pre-Amplifier Yes, but the NF is unpublished unknown. I therefore assume it's poor, maybe 3 dB? Once again, the NF depends on what device arrives in your specific Simrex (aka GLB) Pre-Selector. It wouldn't hurt or be impossible to ask. Nothing new here - same goes for different versions of preamps, i.e. ARR bipolar vs. GaAsFET. A Chip Angle GaAsFET @ UHF has 0.5 dB NF. Put a 1/4 wave pass cavity with 0.5 dB loops in front of it you have a narrow 1 dB NF front-end. I'll take 1 dB NF over 3 dB NF any day. You're actually comparing two different boxes. Nope - comparing GLB vs. GaAsFET/pass cavity combo. I have measured all the original GLB Pre-selectors and their performance values are very realistic (no surprises). Care to publish your results here? I guess it comes back to price too, a 1/4 wave can plus pre-amp will cost more money... GaAsFET preamp is ~$130. I don't think I've ever paid more than $50 for a pass cavity, so the total is ~$100 less than the GLB unit. Reads like you're comparing a new Preamp with a used cavity against the price of a new Simrex (GLB) Pre-selector. That's not really fair... Perfectly fair. Used pass cavities in good condition are plentiful. Can't remember the last time I saw a used GLB or equivalent unit for sale, so I'm simply comparing what's readily available. One of the really nice (and mostly overlooked) items about the Simrex (GLB) unit construction (and operation) is the Post (active) Amplifier Filtering (tuned circuits). For more than one real reason they can be one of the most under reported bacon saver in your fry pan. A single pass cavity usually has enough out-of-band rejection to be totally adequate on its own - no post-preamp filtering needed. Then again, the fact that post-device filtering is used in the GLB makes me worry about the actual selectivity ahead of that device. If there's only 1 or 2 resonators ahead of it, that's not much protection. A 1/4 wave bottle will provide much more rejection ahead of that first amp, and with less loss hence lower NF. IMO the Simrex amplified preselector is a space-saving compromise, nothing more. Bob NO6B
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Digest Number 7357
Albert, 94 refers to 146.940 Mhz, the original frequency used by many on FM...I got on in 1968. Then if 94 was busy some would switch to 76 146.760. 94 was often referred to as Channel A Most new repeaters in those days were on 146.940 with the input on 146.340. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@hotmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:51 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Digest Number 7357 You guys will have to find a picture of that. It sounds hysterical! I assume Mr. McKay built the transmitter right into the mic, no? And you will have to excuse me, but what is a 94? I myself don't have stories like this because I am a child of the 80's, but I love hearing about it and am know amongst my friends as the keeper of old things. This is why you all keep getting questions from me regarding the Genesis radios. Keep the stories and good advice coming. -Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tony dinkel tonydinke...@... wrote: I remember that too Ken! I miss SAROC! And for your SoCal types.. I remember seeing Dick McKay walking around the Sahara in Vegas, talking into a Motorola mic (with just the coil cord hanging down) and listening on '94. This was during SAROC in the 70's Ken _ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT:Printing google or Bing maps from the web
Don, capture it with Alt + Printscreen then open an Excel spread sheet, then drop your captured screen to it with Control V Now you can print it. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Don Kupferschmidt To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 9:42 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT:Printing google or Bing maps from the web All, I'm trying to print a map which was brought up on either google or bing maps on the internet and then export it to a bmp or jpg file which then I can print to an ink jet printer. I've tried and tried to figure this out, but cannot to find a solution. Has anyone been successful in doing this? Or do I need more software? O/S is x/p Pro. TIA, Don, KD9PT
[Repeater-Builder] MSR2000 TRN5073 PL board wanted
Hi, Does anyone have a extra MSR2000 TRN5073 PL encoder/decoder board for sale or trade. I have a MSR2000 TRN5076 DPL encoder/board that I can trade. Brian Henry, WB6QED
[Repeater-Builder] Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru?
Here is some info on the GE version ...maybe it will help ? 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: travis8303 travis8...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 6:07 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru? If anyone can help out with this feed thru part, I have the same issue and need one as well. Thanks, Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, k7icu k7...@... wrote: I have a sick Decibel DB4330 Z-Matcher with a crushed and mangled feed-thru capacitor (looks more like a ceramic non-capacitor feed-thru to me). Anyone know if the original feed-thru part is still available out there? Rough details: 10-32 x 3/8 body; 1 long 15 AWG wire ; ceramic insulator; 0.22 mounting hole; 5/16 flat hex-shaped outside end and a 10-32 nut inside the box. James K7ICU Yahoo! Groups Links Title: Z-Match GE Mastr II Z-Match The Z-match is shown on many duplex power amp schematics in many LBI's. The scans below came from a UHF book, LBI130201, but the information is identical to the information I found in several others, including VHF pages. These are the tuning instructions, quoted directly from the GE document: "Antenna Matching Unit AdjustmentThe Antenna Matching Unit is used only in continuous duty duplex stations to optimize impedance matching between the power amplifier and the load. It consists of a Pi network (C2-C5 and L1) and a reverse directional coupler. RF from the low pass filter is applied to the Pi network through the reverse directional coupler and then to the duplexer load. The reverse directional coupler permits monitoring the reflected power. 1. Connect DC Voltmeter across TP1 and ground. 2. Tune C2 and C4 for minimum voltage as indicated on DC Voltmeter. 3. Push L1 toward or away from the filter cover wall to further reduce the DC voltage. 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary to obtain an absolute minimum voltage reading. Note: The residual voltage reading after tuning may vary from one transmitter to the next depending on output power level, operating frequency, and load". (click the small pictures to see a larger picture in a new browser window) VHF Z-Match UHF Z-Match Z-Match Schematic. Caution, this opens a large .jpg Z-Match Board layout. Caution, this opens a large .jpg Z-Match parts list. Caution, this opens a large .jpg Hosted by directNIC.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru?
Travis, the previous E mail that I sent likely has the Red X problem in the pictures. here is the link to the origianl version of what I sent. http://w4zt.com/zmatch/ 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: travis8303 travis8...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 6:07 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru? If anyone can help out with this feed thru part, I have the same issue and need one as well. Thanks, Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, k7icu k7...@... wrote: I have a sick Decibel DB4330 Z-Matcher with a crushed and mangled feed-thru capacitor (looks more like a ceramic non-capacitor feed-thru to me). Anyone know if the original feed-thru part is still available out there? Rough details: 10-32 x 3/8 body; 1 long 15 AWG wire ; ceramic insulator; 0.22 mounting hole; 5/16 flat hex-shaped outside end and a 10-32 nut inside the box. James K7ICU Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] yaesu FTL-7011 Off Topic
I recently received a Yaesu FTL-7011 F radio. It's brand new in the box. It has 24 channels and operates form 485-512 Mhz. Can anyone think of a use for this thing ? John VE3AMZ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: A warning to Land Mobile Radio Dealers
In reality what are the chances of needing to use any frequency that you're unauthorized to use in an emergency? And I am talking like like or death in a car sinking in the river emergency- not you have a flat tire and are stuck in a snow drift emergency. Most of the time one can use a cellphone of some other means rather than using a frequency that they are not licensed for. I bet you if I came up on a police car that had been in an accident and the officer was unconscious, I wouldn't get into a bit of trouble for picking up his radio and calling for help. It isn't any different if someone were to do it for themselves if need be. I'm sure they would investigate it, but I don't see how there would be anything to charge someone with if it is a true emergency. My sense of entitlement comes from that fact that I would use any resources that I have at my disposal to save someones life, and worry about the consequences later. Are you going to follow the speed limit if you are trying to get your loved one to a hospital because she is in labor, or worse yet sick or hurt? NO! We're talking about following rules here and there are always exceptions to the rule. I hope that I don't ever get put into a situation where I have to make those decisions, but I know what I would do. And if you would rather die or let someone die than to use a frequency that you unauthorized to use, good for you! -Jordan --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Richard Fletcher rickfle...@... wrote:  J. C. and the rest.  Yes I am going to say this because it seems to have been missed. When John asked is there a frequency monitored by law enforcement And to JC who said he going to use any frequency that I have to get help (Not to bright of a statement there JC, from where do you get this grand sense of entitlement anyway?) You guys do know that in the US there is still available CB Radio Right? Chanel 9 used to be monitored prior to Cellular and  there on the 40 CB channels  you can Legally communicate to your hearts content. As well as on the FRS devices. And with the flood of cell phones out there now, the CB Band is very clear. Now I do have radio equipment capable of almost any freq out there, but since I am not licensed on it I would not even concede transmitting on it. Only exception where I did was when I was at a GE Radio shop from 1980 to 1995 where I would call in to the PD and Fire Dispatcher (And government bands) to confirm transmission. and all was done professionally while in maintaining of that agency's radio equipment.  I find it quite strange that any Ham (if you actually are one) would think that just because you have a radio capable of transmitting anywhere would think that he was entitled to do so. And no I am not a Ham, but I do listen! I am license on GMRS, and most folks there are in some cases more professional than that of some of the childish HAM conversations I have heard (usually on simplex freqs)  Now I bet this will get things stirred up now won't they? Richard  From: J C jcar...@... To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sat, May 1, 2010 12:30:08 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A warning to Land Mobile Radio Dealers  If my life is in danger, I am going to use any frequency that I have to get help. I don't care if it is a remote broadcast link frequency for a radio station! But that's me. --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com, La Rue Communications LaRueComm@ .. wrote: I forgot to add something, kind of crucial to my point at the end back there. if my life was in jeopardy then. Is there a frequency that Law Enforcement monitors for non emergency situations? For the public sector? Or would it be any officer who knows how to build their own scanners? Let me reclarify - if I was in an accident, and my radio was in reach over my cell (i.e. my cell was in my pocket, or got knocked under the seat), and I had a life threatening injury, what kind of response would that evoke? John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 http://tinyurl. com/2dtngmn - Original Message - From: Maire-Radios To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 10:30 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A warning to Land Mobile Radio Dealers you should not even think of doing that. - Original Message - From: La Rue Communications To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 1:10 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A warning to Land Mobile Radio Dealers So if I had a UHF Saber, and programmed it to a Police frequency for the purposes of TX EMERGENCY info only like 911, then its required to have authorization? What if I was involved in a wreck and my radio was the only thing in reach over
[Repeater-Builder] Re: A warning to Land Mobile Radio Dealers
If my life is in danger, I am going to use any frequency that I have to get help. I don't care if it is a remote broadcast link frequency for a radio station! But that's me. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, La Rue Communications laruec...@... wrote: I forgot to add something, kind of crucial to my point at the end back there. if my life was in jeopardy then. Is there a frequency that Law Enforcement monitors for non emergency situations? For the public sector? Or would it be any officer who knows how to build their own scanners? Let me reclarify - if I was in an accident, and my radio was in reach over my cell (i.e. my cell was in my pocket, or got knocked under the seat), and I had a life threatening injury, what kind of response would that evoke? John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn - Original Message - From: Maire-Radios To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 10:30 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A warning to Land Mobile Radio Dealers you should not even think of doing that. - Original Message - From: La Rue Communications To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 1:10 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A warning to Land Mobile Radio Dealers So if I had a UHF Saber, and programmed it to a Police frequency for the purposes of TX EMERGENCY info only like 911, then its required to have authorization? What if I was involved in a wreck and my radio was the only thing in reach over my cell? John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn - Original Message - From: kd6aaj To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 9:58 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A warning to Land Mobile Radio Dealers Strange, considering the GMRS can come with radios you buy, before you even have the license. I guess you have to be one of the BIG boys to sell radios preprogrammed with those freqs. and there is an EXCEPTION: Title 47: Telecommunication PART 90-PRIVATE LAND MOBILE RADIO SERVICES Subpart N-Operating Requirements § 90.427 Precautions against unauthorized operation. (a) Each transmitter shall be so installed and protected that it is not accessible to or capable of operation by persons other than those duly authorized by and under the control of the licensee. Provisions of this part authorizing certain unlicensed persons to operate stations, or authorizing unattended operation of stations in certain circumstances, shall not be construed to change or diminish in any respect the responsibility of station licensees to maintain control over the stations licensed to them (including all transmitter units thereof), or for the proper functioning and operation of those stations and transmitter units in accordance with the terms of the licenses of those stations. (b) Except for frequencies used in accordance with §90.417, no person shall program into a transmitter frequencies for which the licensee using the transmitter is not authorized. and: § 90.417 Interstation communication. top (a) Any station licensed under this part may communicate with any other station without restriction as to type, service, or licensee when the communications involved relate directly to the imminent safety-of-life or property. (b) Any station licensed under this part may communicate with any other station licensed under this part, with U.S. Government stations, and with foreign stations, in connection with mutual activities, provided that where the communication involves foreign stations prior approval of the Commission must be obtained, and such communication must be permitted by the government that authorizes the foreign station. Communications by Public Safety Pool eligibles with foreign stations will be approved only to be conducted in accordance with Article 5 of the Inter-American Radio Agreement, Washington, DC, 1949, the provisions of which are set forth in §90.20(b). [43 FR 54791, Nov. 22, 1978, as amended at 62 FR 18933, Apr. 17, 1997] ---end of CFR regs--- So, what's to stop someone from saying they programmed a freq for emergency use only? Why else have the exception, unless you are expected to have an unauthorized frequency programed in your radio? So, the exception (90.417) clearly makes 90.427 un-enforceable UNLESS you can prove intent to operate on the unauthorized frequency for NON-emergency communications. The school was operating on the frequency, but they don't say what
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct Strike Lightning Detector
But Paul...Toronto is not near Lake Erie ! It's on Lake Ontario:-)) John VE3AMZ Waterloo, Ontario - Original Message - From: Paul Plack To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 1:54 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct Strike Lightning Detector Jesse, A radio engineer in Atlanta years ago told me a neat trick he said allows confirming a strike, and estimating the current it produced. It involves rexcording an audio tone on a piece of magnetic tape several feet long, sealing it in a weatherproof, non-conductive tube, and positioning it perpendicular to a tower leg. If lightning strikes, the magnetic flux produced around the conductor will vary proportionate to the current, and playing back the tape will reveal an erased portion which can be measured for its physical length. I have no idea how well that would actually work, or how to calculate the current based on how many inches of tape are erased. These days the only magnetic tape machines left in common use are old cassette decks, but it might be worth a piece of PVC pipe and some glue to try it. If you just want to know if it's hit, set up a vertical conductor some distance from the tower, but well within its cone of protection, connected through a fuse to an independent ground. If the tower gets smacked, you can bet some serious current will be induced in a 10-foot vertical wire. Years ago, an engineer for WBEN radio in Buffalo told me that on summer days when thunderstorms would hit the Toronto area across Lake Erie to the north, a hit on a radio tower up there would produce a spark across the ball gaps on the towers in Buffalo. That's 90 miles! 73, Paul, AE4KR - Original Message - From: Jesse Lloyd To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 11:32 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Direct Strike Lightning Detector Hey All, I am trying to think of a way to detect if a tower at one of our sites gets a direct hit. I was thinking of paralleling a ground strap with a 10mA amp glass fuse. Maybe make the two connections to the ground stap 2 ft apart and use a fuse holder for fuse testing and replacement. I suspect the fuse would blow if any significant current went down the ground strap (or would the whole thing melt? I suppose either way I'd know!). Ideas? I live in an area that doesn't see a lot of lightning, I'm curious if the tower gets hit. Jesse
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pior Simon
Try, www.pionsimon.com They have a new web site for about a month now It worked for me just now... 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: orangetruck38 orangetruc...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 7:11 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Pior Simon Hi- Just tried to bring up the Pion and Simon site and no luck ? Anyone know of a change ?? TKS,Jerry W8KQ Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TOS/COS question
I am looking to a pull tone-operated squelch logic on a TK-860H and a TK-981. The KCT-19, as many know only outputs carrier logic regardless of PL/DPL status. Has anybody got notes somewhere on where the best point to pull logic out for active PL? Thanks, Jordan
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TOS/COS question
It is not a G series. Just the old originial 860. Jordan --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Yahoo ya...@... wrote: Is it a TK-860H or TK-860HG? Jeff -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of J C Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 11:01 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TOS/COS question I am looking to a pull tone-operated squelch logic on a TK-860H and a TK-981. The KCT-19, as many know only outputs carrier logic regardless of PL/DPL status. Has anybody got notes somewhere on where the best point to pull logic out for active PL? Thanks, Jordan
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TOS/COS question
Thanks Skipp! I will investigate further. The one thing I don't have for this radio is a service manual. I will try to scrounge one up. Thanks again! --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 skipp...@... wrote: I replied to Jordan direct to say that I'll post some of the answers over here for all to see. First off, deal with the tk-860H, which is different from a tk-860g... and I believe the H is the higher power version of the plain tk-860. The labels on the KCT-19 pins/wires will change but the PTT and COR wires are KCT-19 pin 8 and 11 or 13. The function of the radio cor out logic being tied to CTCSS and/or Carrier Squelch is dependent on the specific radio. Some of the earlier 1995 era mobiles required a few internal hardware changes to bring out a Tone Detected COR function from the KTC-19 connector. Was not a problem in most all later model radios... So I suspect you'll have to do a bit of minor hardware modifications to change the COR output line from Carrier Squelch to CTCSS activation. One application note I have here regarding pin 13 operation for Radio COR Output: Solder the two anodes of D205 together to route the audio mute signal out to the KCT-19 cable. Refer to page 55 of the Kenwood manual for parts location. I suspect the pin 13 cor output label is wrong and you should investigate using pin 11 as the cor output as indicated on most other kenwood radio model. The TK-860H is an older radio and it's connection information to external devices (the outside world) is a bit vague. You'd probably need a Service Manual for that specific radio model to sort out the proper CTCSS routed to cor output logic/wire configuration. The TK-981 follows the convention of newer mobiles so its COR should be tied to CTCSS. Otherwise post a want or email me direct again. cheers, skipp ps: I have a ton of message from group members I'll try to respond back to asap... things have been nuts as of late, which I guess is a good thing. J C jcarter@ wrote: I am looking to a pull tone-operated squelch logic on a TK-860H and a TK-981. The KCT-19, as many know only outputs carrier logic regardless of PL/DPL status. Has anybody got notes somewhere on where the best point to pull logic out for active PL? Thanks, Jordan
Re: [Repeater-Builder] crimping assistance please
Chuck, I work for a National Telecom company here in Canada and we crimp everything used on DS-3 (BNC) and above. For the center pin you need a 12 point circular crimper and for the sleeve you need a good quality hex crimper such as Tyco etc. These two items can run you several hundred dollars each. The SMB crimper that we use costs around $1100.00 I've probably done a few thousand of them and never had a failure. So the trick is to have good tools and know the proper way of installing the connector. Seems to me that someone once mentioned that you must use crimp connectors on aircraft...??? not sure if that is true John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Chuck Kelsey To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:49 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] crimping assistance please To reduce PIM, the center conductor should be soldered. Whether there is a practical (measurable) difference would depend on how well the crimp was done, vs solder. From an Amphenol paper: Cable Attachment: Mechanical stability of the cable/connector junction is of utmost importance. Small movements caused by flexing can be translated into significant PIM. Center conductors should be soldered, not crimped. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: allan crites To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 11:26 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] crimping assistance please Jeff Doesn't soldering of the center contact to the center conductor affect the connector PIM adversely vs not soldering? AC No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/12/10 02:32:00
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Nice article on the Molotora Gontor
I had to laugh when it said you need a model 15 TTY to program it... I used to fix those things many years ago ! Klunk - klunk - klunk. :-)) 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Kevin Custer kug...@kuggie.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; repea...@yahoogroups.com; repeat...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 7:48 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Nice article on the Molotora Gontor Bob Meister has written a nice article on the Molotora Gontor for RB. http://www.repeater-builder.com/molotora/gontor/gontor.html Thanks go out to Bob for his efforts! Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: NOS GE Phoenix For Sale
Correct ! I have one here that is on UHF and it has two channels, a push button on the front to select A / B John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Richard To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 11:00 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: NOS GE Phoenix For Sale The combination number says it is a two channel 150-174 Mhz Richard www.n7tgb.net The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money --Margaret Thatcher -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kb5zxm Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:30 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: NOS GE Phoenix For Sale I forget how many frequency's will it accept? --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gary n6...@... wrote: New/old stock GE VHF Phoenix PSX-200 synthesized mobile for sale. Model N5HH2w40CB with mic, bracket, original order card, and some wiring. Absolutely new in the box. I think it's all there but not sure so offered as is. I need the storage space back so will take $50 with free shipping in the continental U.S. Reply directly to me (off this email group) if interested. Thanks. Gary
[Repeater-Builder] Controller order , paypal problems
Some of you will recall that I had problems with Paypal when ordering a repeater controller. I sent two E mails to paypal and got no satisfactory reply...just stock answers I then called them to find out why they sent an E Check for my purchase instead of an instant money transfer. Again the lady read from a script and after asking her several times why they handled it this way, she finally told me that they have instituted a new security measure. When a purchase looks suspicious to their Computer, it decides to send an E Check which can take 10 - 15 days to clear. Is there any way to prevent thisno. since no human gets to see this transaction. This might happen in 1 - 2 % of the transactions that they handle. In my case the amount was $185.00 and it came out of my bank account instantly but their computer decided that it might be suspicious ! So hopefully this information is helpful to anyone using Paypal to make payments. I've used them many times in the past and never had a problem until now. John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: If you are a Windows XP or 2000 user you might find this interesting...
That is 512 bytes / sector = 4096 bytes / sector. At 04:30 3/15/2010 +, you wrote: good article kudos for that people are dropping 400 dollars for the solid state drives needless to say vista is nanny software at the point where xp 32 or 64 becomes more trouble than it is worth that will be the point where i buy new hardware and a new op its amazing how many people have hardware that was never backward or forward compatible or upgradeable 400k sectors and a translation to 512k sectors sounds like the ram hard drives to me --- In mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ wa6...@... wrote: The hard drive manufacturers are changing the native drive sector size... industry wide. Since XP and 2000 are frozen (no more major updates) they are going to take a performance hit. See http://www.dailytech.com/HDD+Makers+Adopt+Improved+Storage+Format+Windows+XP+Users+Beware/article17869.htmhttp://www.dailytech.com/HDD+Makers+Adopt+Improved+Storage+Format+Windows+XP+Users+Beware/article17869.htm A lot of the comments at the bottom go off on tangents, but the article at the top is worth reading. Mike WA6ILQ
[Repeater-Builder] final comments re Pion and Simon Controller
As this should be the final comments on my order of a controller, the main reason there was a delay is that Paypal processed this order with an E Cheque. I had expected an instant transfer of money as has happened many times in the past but when they do an E Cheque, it takes 10 - 15 days to clear. The money came from my account instantly so I'll be contacting Paypal to see why this happened. I now have had several E mails from Pion and Simon, and the money has arrived, the card will be shipped to-day. Their phone number does not appear on their web site but I assume it will be added. it is 503-545-4732 I'm glad to know that I now have contact with Pion and Simon and I look forward to receiving the controller card. 73, John, VE3AMZ / W4 Orlando Florida
[Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon
I ordered a Pion and Simon PSE 508-3 controller and have not received it yet here in Florida. They don't answer E mails and I can't find a telephone number for that company. Does anyone know their tel number ? Are they still in business ? 541-273-8958 does not work..This is the number shown on Paypal. 73 John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon
It was ordered directly from their web site and paid for by Paypal. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: La Rue Communications To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 4:13 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon Was it bought on eBay? Post the item number / link. I'd like to see this. Ian has a good point, although its called BUYER protection. Seller protection works the same way, but for sellers. Just my OCD kicking in. John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 - Original Message - From: va...@securenet.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 12:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon John If you paid them on paypal, and it hasnt been 45 days yet since the transaction, institute a paypal chargeback. You can do this if you havent been given any valid tracking number on your item. This should get someone's attention on the other end. If after 30 days (i think) paypal will credit you your expense. its called seller protection. Paypal has a toll free number that works from Canada, so give them a call for details. Good luck Ian VA2IR At 03:14 PM 3/10/2010, you wrote: I ordered a Pion and Simon PSE 508-3 controller and have not received it yet here in Florida. They don't answer E mails and I can't find a telephone number for that company. Does anyone know their tel number ? Are they still in business ? 541-273-8958 does not work..This is the number shown on Paypal. 73 John VE3AMZ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.436 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2734 - Release Date: 03/10/10 07:33:00
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon
Thanks, James.but you'll recall that my question was for a phone number. I sent two E mails with no reply..to the address shown... 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: James Cicirello To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 5:50 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon Their web site says: We can be reached by sending mail to one of the addresses listed below: Postal address: PO Box 23651, Tigard, OR 97281 Electronic mail Al Pion Elizabeth Simon I use there product and am very happy, especially with the service I received from Al. Good Luck JIM KA2AJH On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 4:29 PM, John J. Riddell ve3...@earthlink.net wrote: It was ordered directly from their web site and paid for by Paypal. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: La Rue Communications To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 4:13 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon Was it bought on eBay? Post the item number / link. I'd like to see this. Ian has a good point, although its called BUYER protection. Seller protection works the same way, but for sellers. Just my OCD kicking in. John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 - Original Message - From: va...@securenet.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 12:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pion and Simon John If you paid them on paypal, and it hasnt been 45 days yet since the transaction, institute a paypal chargeback. You can do this if you havent been given any valid tracking number on your item. This should get someone's attention on the other end. If after 30 days (i think) paypal will credit you your expense. its called seller protection. Paypal has a toll free number that works from Canada, so give them a call for details. Good luck Ian VA2IR At 03:14 PM 3/10/2010, you wrote: I ordered a Pion and Simon PSE 508-3 controller and have not received it yet here in Florida. They don't answer E mails and I can't find a telephone number for that company. Does anyone know their tel number ? Are they still in business ? 541-273-8958 does not work..This is the number shown on Paypal. 73 John VE3AMZ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.436 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2734 - Release Date: 03/10/10 07:33:00 -- Jim Cicirello 181 Stevens Street Wellsville, N.Y. 14895 (585)593-4655
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LOOONG audio runs
Kris, the reason we don't put T-1 on cable pairs is of course NEXT FEXT. The receive level from a T-1 MUX is 6 Volts P:P so it will spill all over the cable. The standard for T-1 in seperately shielded pairs. We do use twisted pairs at a cross connect panel for short runs... (DSX-1 Panel) The HDSL technology does allow for T-1 on cable pairs but it uses 2B1Q protocol and there is really only 12 channels of the T-1 signal on each pair. 2B1Q was developed by Northern Telecom in Ottawa. 73 John VE3AMZ Retired, Bell Canada and MTS Allstream - Original Message - From: Kris Kirby k...@catonic.us To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 11:20 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LOOONG audio runs On Sat, 27 Feb 2010, JOHN MACKEY wrote: Using balanced audio in a broadcast environment, I have on rare occasions experienced issues with cross-talk between long runs of un-shielded balanced audio lines. (inductive pickup??) I always wondered if the wires were truly balanced when that happened. That's probably NEXT or FEXT, which is near-end cross-talk and far-end. Bell documented this stuff somewhere; I've read the book. There's a reason why they don't run the T1 lines with the voice lines or why they don't stuff the entire binder full of T1s. Of course, that same book explained how to use the cable pairs as resistors to heat up the cable, which has been done a few times in NYC, resulting in dead pairs in the cable due to too much power/heating on a given pair. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LOOONG audio runs
Skipp, yes you can get shielded Cat 5. I've used it a few times when running near AC fixtures etc. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 skipp...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:43 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LOOONG audio runs Joe k1ike_m...@... wrote: I wonder if CAT 6 would be better than CAT5 due to the difference in twist? Joe A number of different items in the specifications would be worth examining... like how much C per foot and I don't believe CAT network cables are shielded. s. Oz, in DFW wrote: Make sure you use twisted pair. Station wire like that use to wire houses is often not twisted. Ethernet cable is good and has a high twist pitch - better for this application. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bend an ICOM a little further
Les Smith died several years ago and the Company is no longer in business. Les started making crystals at CTS in Streetsville Ontario and about 35 years ago he started his own company. I have lot's of his crystals here. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ont. (Where the Blackberry was invented) - Original Message - From: Paul Plack To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 4:41 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bend an ICOM a little further There used to be a great little company in the Toronto area called Lesmith that did a nice job with crystals at prices below ICM's. They morphed a couple times and changed names, but I think they're out of the crystal biz now. Anyone have an update? 73, Paul, AE4KR - Original Message - From: DCFluX To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 2:20 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bend an ICOM a little further I just got some Bomar crystals (Not my choice) for the clubs UHF Micor. The TX was off 14 to 39 kHz, Had to add a 10pF cap to get the trimmer in the center range. Strangely the RX was fine.
[Repeater-Builder] PSE 508 Controllers
Has anyone here used the Pion and Simon PSE508 series of controllers in a GE Mastr II ? Is the 508-3 with 4 channels of CTCSS worth considering ? 73 John VE3AMZ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking for Spectra-TAC Roofing Filter QRN8498A
Eric: I have not seen anything in the manual myself, but it would probably be in the voter manual since it is a voter panel option (I think) not a receiver option. Randy: Motorola parts have them in stock $428.00 List? WOW! I think I will keep looking for a surplus one! If that one card cost $428, I can't imagine what the entire panel cost. Probably quite a bit less than what I have in it! - Jordan . --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Randy Fisher wb9...@... wrote: The Motorola part number for the filter board is QRN8498C Motorola parts have them in stock $428.00 List? From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:41 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for Spectra-TAC Roofing Filter QRN8498A Jordan, My Spectra-TAC Voting Receiver manual does not list any component by that name. Does the device you need have a specific module part number? 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of J C Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 8:11 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for Spectra-TAC Roofing Filter QRN8498A Hey Guys, I *may* need a roofing filter for a spectra-Tac voter panel. I am probing to see if anyone has one laying around so I know who to contact if I end up needing it. If anyone has one that they wish to part with, please let me know what you are asking for it. Thanks, Jordan
[Repeater-Builder] Looking for Spectra-TAC Roofing Filter QRN8498A
Hey Guys, I *may* need a roofing filter for a spectra-Tac voter panel. I am probing to see if anyone has one laying around so I know who to contact if I end up needing it. If anyone has one that they wish to part with, please let me know what you are asking for it. Thanks, Jordan
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Service Monitor Input Protection
Jim, Many years ago when I was servicing radio equipment for Bell Canada, we used a special fuse holder with a very small value fuse on the input connector. That worked well and protected the external pad that we used on the signal generator. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: James ka2...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 5:30 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Service Monitor Input Protection Hello to the group. Knowing most of you have service monitors for the Repeater Builder Hobby, I wanted to pose the following question. What method do you use to protect the input of your service monitor from excessive RF Power input? I am referring to the input/output jack that is limited to 2.5 watts on MANY service monitors. I know I can use an attenuator, but that gets removed for sensitivity checks and may not get put back on. One suggestion is a RF Relay that would trip on say one watt and put the power to a dummy load. The problem is I have used one of the cheap circuits in the past and toasted transistors in a Pre-amp, before the relay reacted as the book said it should. However I know there are circuits in say the Mirage Amp that also has a Pre-Amp that is removed from the antenna during transmit, that works well. What are you doing to protect your monitor? Appreciate your thoughts. 73 JIM KA2AJH Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dropping the Autopatch--Keep 911
Kurt, all Cellphones will dial 911 whether they are activated or not. But...the analogue phones will soon be turned off if they haven't already been shut down, very soon. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Facility 406 DM09 facility_...@earthlink.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, December 25, 2009 9:43 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dropping the Autopatch--Keep 911 So far, all old analog cell phones I have picked up dial 911 without paid service. I call the local dispatcher on them to test this, no problem, so a larger bag phone, generally free and incredibly easy to work on due to their size, could work, a controller made from something like a basic stamp or pic chip could dial for you, send 911, *911 etc to get a connection. Another way is to set your dialer, if possible, to allow outbound 911 only and reject all other call requests. If you go with an analog phone (AMPS), contact your local PD about testing if the service still exists with carriers around you, maybe during off hours. Kurt Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic ... a time for God
The list owner has asked that all this stuff be stopped. Can you folks not understand that ? This list is for assisting with technical issues regarding repeater building. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Rev. Robert P. Chrysafis kc8...@hotmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic ... a time for God I like it. i am not offended at all. just the other day i saw a real still operating drive in movie theater. I am seeing bit's of Real amaerica starting to re emerge amongst the liberal PC garbage and i love it. - Original Message - From: ki4zji rr...@librtynet.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 10:28 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic ... a time for God I am deeply offended by this. No, not the mention that we should take time out for God. I am offended by the barrage of tirades assaulting Lee for daring to mention God. Lee, good for you! Everyone who is a Christian should be a light in their community, drawing men to Jesus. Oh no - I mentioned Jesus. I guess I will get a box full of email telling me how offensive I am. Perhaps if I mentioned Buddha or Mohammad, I would be ok. But I dared to mention Jesus. Folks, if you live in the United States, you are living in a distinctively CHRISTIAN NATION. Get over the PC garbage that has polluted and is destroying our GREAT CHRISTIAN NATION. The United States is, after all, ONE NATION UNDER GOD. When our fathers founded this country, it was not founded on some nebulous supreme being, it was founded by Christians who were escaping religious persecution. They came to the New World because they wanted to freely worship Jesus. The original colonists as well as those who wrote the foundational documents of this country knew JESUS CHRIST as their personal LORD and SAVIOUR. To them, the name JESUS CHRIST was a name with power, a name to be honored and revered. The name of Jesus was not offensive and was certainly not a swear word to them. Some believe that if we call ourselves a Christian nation, we are forcing Christ on all people. Nothing could be farther from the truth. As Christians, who acknowledge the Bible as their final authority, we must admit that all people have a free will. If someone decides to follow another religion, that is their prerogative, their choice. There is no reason to be offended by that. It is sad to see such replies from what I thought was basically a good group of people. We can peaceably disagree on doctrine, denomination and even politics. That is our RIGHT as citizens. However, when one person is vilified for his willingness to ask you to take a moment out for God, regardless of who you may call God, there is a serious problem. The problem is not with Lee, the problem is with all of you who are persecuting him (and I suppose, now, me). Now, for what I am sure will be the final straw for some of you. I shall quote some Scripture. John 15:25 But this cometh to pass, that the word might be fulfilled that is written in their law, They hated me without a cause. They hated Jesus without cause. What was Jesus here for? To sacrifice Himself to save mankind from their sins. There was no reason for them to hate Jesus. He came to save us all. If I were to run headlong into a burning building to rescue someone from the fire, I would be lauded as a hero. If I should happen to get a little burn, the accolades would be greater. Jesus was God in the flesh. As God, who cannot sin, He took the all the sins of all the world upon Him. Imagine the guilt you would hopefully feel if you murdered an innocent child. Aside from the physical torture He endured in the process of the crucifixion, Jesus took all that guilt of all our sins upon Himself for us. Where are His accolades? Why is He not a hero among you? If you would like to discuss this with me, please email me directly. rr...@librtynet.com Sincerely, Randy Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap: Canadian Marconi Repeater.
Hi Tedd, Just wondered if you meant 146.28 / 146.880 as i think that is the standard pair JR - Original Message - From: Tedd Doda la...@sentex.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 11:51 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap: Canadian Marconi Repeater. Hi Guys: Does anyone close to Kitchener-Waterloo Ontario have a use for a VHF repeater? This is just the cabinet, and it comes with another unit for parts. It is currently on 147.280/147.880 (crystals included). It has been sitting in my shop for 10+ years, so it's time to let someone else have some fun. $50 or B.O. (really BEST OFFER) Tedd Doda, VE3TJD Lazer Audio and Electronics http://www.ve3tjd.com My idea of a symphony: 8 pistons playing the tune my right foot tells them to. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT ACSSB - how does it work and is it possible for the hobbyist to scratch build
Have a look at http://www.kangaus.com/kk7b.htm At 01:50 11/12/2009 -0800, you wrote: This problem (generating the 90 degree phase shift audio) is all that is keeping me from an experiment to generate a SSB signal using a little known technique I ran across in an old QST. It seems that a phase modulated FM signal can be combined with amplitude modulation with the audio 90 degree phase shifted and generate a SSB signal. The experiments referenced wound up with a SSB signal with full carrier. My first foray into sideband operation back in the late '50s was with a command transmitter with the grids modified to push pull and applying push pull audio to the screens. This generated a double sideband suppressed carrier signal. I suspect that I could modify a GE Prog transmitter by rewiring the grids of a 60 Watt final to push pull and applying push pull audio to the screens and applying 90 degree phase shifted audio to the normal phase modulation input would generate a SSB suppressed carrier signal. I suspect the pre-emphasis in the phase modulation circuit would have to be defeated, or does a phase modulation scheme automatically generate the pre-emphasis? 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Wed, 11/11/09, DCFluX dcf...@gmail.com wrote: From: DCFluX dcf...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] acssb - how does it work and is it possible for the hobbyist to scratch build To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 9:02 PM I was playing with the ideas of making adapters, but it is supprisingly difficult to throw audio exactly 90 degrees out of phase over a broad frequency range.
[Repeater-Builder] Radio conversion to 225MHZ
Has anyone converted any of the commercial (GE/Motorola) radios to the 220 band? If so what works and what doesnt. I need several 225 radios and thought this might be a route to go. Thanks in advance Jim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
Wrong. At 20:33 9/10/2009 -0700, you wrote: Those are called needle nose pliers. Craftsman has a nice 5 piece set of pliers for small work. On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 8:19 PM, Ray Brown mailto:kb0stn%40sbcglobal.netkb0...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Speaking of tools, how about the specialized wrenches that can take the SMA connector nut loose on, oh, say, Yaesu VX 5 or FT-50's? Ray, KB0STN Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
Wrong tools. At 07:59 9/11/2009 -0400, you wrote: Back when cars had distributors, most tool outlets had nice sets of distributor wrenches A set of these make short work on small hex style connectors. Also for knurled connectors Snap-On has or did have a very small set of Channel locks for use on things like distributors. -Kevin -Original Message- From: mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Brown Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 11:19 PM To: mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools Speaking of tools, how about the specialized wrenches that can take the SMA connector nut loose on, oh, say, Yaesu VX 5 or FT-50's? Ray, KB0STN Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
The tool you want... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=27013661ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/27013661_W0QQampsspagenameZhQ3ahQ3aadvsearchQ3aUSQQcatrefZC5QQdfspZ32QQfclZ3QQfromZR7QQfrppZ50QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ32QQnojsprZyQQpfidZ0QQsacatZQ2d1QQsofocusZbsQQfviZ1 At 09:15 9/11/2009 -0400, you wrote: Speaking of tools, how about the specialized wrenches that can take the SMA connector nut loose on, oh, say, Yaesu VX 5 or FT-50's? Ray, KB0STN I don't have either of those radios, but are you talking about a spanner wrench or spanner driver? Retaining ring pliers sometimes work too. The ones with interchangable tips are the most versatile. --- Jeff WN3A
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
All inappropriate. At 09:45 9/11/2009 -0400, you wrote: Here are a couple of types of spanner wrenches/drivers of the type I'm talking about. There are other types of spanner wrenches that are shaped more like a claw, but that's not what I'm talking about. Nice adjustable type: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200381005551http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200381005551 Cheapie spring-metal type: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=110356477178http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=110356477178 Fixed-width: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=310104470026http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=310104470026 Spanner drivers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7441a15/=3l22afhttp://www.mcmaster.com/#7441a15/=3l22af Retaining ring pliers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#retaining-ring-pliers/=3l22k5http://www.mcmaster.com/#retaining-ring-pliers/=3l22k5 --- Jeff WN3A -Original Message- From: mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Zimmerman Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 9:35 AM To: mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools I was thinking it was called a 'spanner nut' also. I used to have a few in my tool box when I worked at Ritron. That's not the correct name. I tried a google search and didn't come up with anything that looked familiar. I have a call in to someone who may know. If I hear back from him, I'll let the list know the *proper* name and how to get some. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 Jeff DePolo wrote: Speaking of tools, how about the specialized wrenches that can take the SMA connector nut loose on, oh, say, Yaesu VX 5 or FT-50's? Ray, KB0STN I don't have either of those radios, but are you talking about a spanner wrench or spanner driver? Retaining ring pliers sometimes work too. The ones with interchangable tips are the most versatile. --- Jeff WN3A Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.91/2363 - Release Date: 09/11/09 09:15:00 No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.78/2347 - Release Date: 09/11/09 09:15:00
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Talking about pdf and scanners what about microfiche??
There s an outfit on ebay that uses one of these http://www.nextscan.com/products/flexscan.html to scan microfiche to pdf for $33.00 a page... (ouch!) At 16:02 8/21/2009 -0700, you wrote: Marvin, I feel your pain. I have many GE manuals on microfiche, and I have been trying to find a way to convert them into PDF files. I, too, have a microfiche reader that I bought for reading census films (for genealogy), but the only way to get there from here is to use the microfiche reader-printer at the local Family History Center to get hard copy, and then scan it into PDF. Very time-consuming and inconvenient. I tried taking a digital picture of the reader's screen, but the results were unsatisfactory. The human eye ignores the bloom in the center of the screen image, but the camera doesn't. Since many building codes and manuals are on microfiche, you might try a commercial graphics shop that specializes in document and blueprint reproduction. The quality of microfiche images is already poor, and it is important to retain as much of the original detail as possible. That's why a one-step conversion (microfiche-to-PDF) is the ideal solution. I'm still looking for the best solution. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mmoss111 Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 3:47 PM To: mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Talking about pdf and scanners what about microfiche?? I have some microfiche that I want to convert either to pdf or a 8 1/2 x 11 format but my scanner will not work on the tiny panels. I have a microfiche reader but the only thing I can think of is to take a digital picture of the screen. Getting the proper exposure might be tough though. Has anyone converted microfiche to usable pages that you can read? Any ideas? Thanks, Marvin
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Portable repeater
Towards reducing power consumption: Use the sleep mode on the processor. Set RF output power as a function of RSSI. Include multi-chemistry battery management. Include solar panel management. Include charge termination output; would drive a relay which would shut down a small generator which had been left running. 73 de KN6TD (s) Derek At 05:09 8/4/2009 +, you wrote: I am in the design stages for a portable VHF (2 meter ham) repeater, and thought I would solicit the views of the group for desired features. In broad strokes, we plan on a computer programmable unit, capable of one or two field selectable operation modes. CTCSS only, no COS or DTS. This is primarily to support our SAR users (I manufacture the Micro-Trak line of APRS tracking systems sold by Byonics-www.byonics.com) We will have DTMF remote control. The goal is a bare-bones repeater, with no provision for a duplexer, so wide channel separation and physically separate antennas will be a must. Battery power will be the norm, and I am thinking of a system with no more than 8 Watts output. What features are a must-have in this kind of a machine? What DTMF remote functions do we need as a minimum, and are there any features that we should have that other controllers don't offer? ( We will be writing our own code for the controller, an Atmega microprocessor) Has anyone ever attempted a servo controlled duplexer? Did it work? 73, Allen VHS AF60F
[Repeater-Builder] MX315 CTCSS Encode chip......
Hi All, Anyone have a source for a MX315 CTCSS Encode chip for the ACC FC-900 Interface? Thanks, Carm,WO3T
[Repeater-Builder] Vibrasponder KLN 6209A 123.0Hz..
Hi All, I am in need of a Motorola Vibrasponder KLN 6209A Freq. 123.0 Hz. If anyone has one to sell please let me know. Or if you can steer me in the right direction to try and locate one that would work also. Thanks, Carm,WO3T
[Repeater-Builder] Zetron Model 66
I got one from the Pager equipment Junk. Any use for this in a amateur repeater site? Can we convert it into a Rpt controller for VHF? Peter
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II synthesizer
Tony, / Brian, You will have to change the receive offset crystal in the GLB and do some re-programming for the TX OP (possibly) depending on it's original out put freq. In the TX you will need to disable the feedback so that the first stage is an amplifier, not an oscillator. I built several of them and still have one in use here on an old GE Station 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Tony Faiola To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:27 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II synthesizer Hello Brian: I have a GLB synthesizer with the complet original manual in working condition when I took it out of the car. when I took it out of the car, it was wrapped with clear plastic, and tucked away. Never thought about selling it, but maybe it is worth $30.00 (plus shipping). If you have any questions, let me know, and I'll check the manual. I'm the original owner, and built it from their kit. It might be cheaper than buying crystals. Ciao, Tony, K3WX On May 26, 2009, at 1:15 PM, Brian Gieryk wrote: Individual Email | Traditional
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Strang new noise in repeater
Norman, we had a similar situation many years ago with a Ham repeater that would lock up with a distant repeater using the reverse pair frequencies ! It was a sound like a hollow tunnel howling and growling.happened during periods of inversion. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: NORM KNAPP nkn...@twowayradio.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:12 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Strang new noise in repeater Got a VHF repeater in my area. In the last several weeks it has started making a noise like that of a steam whistle. It doesn't do it all the time. It seems random. I have not been able to make any connections yet with regular occurances. It doesn't do it until someone talks through the repeater and the unkeys. The noise keeps the repeater up for a couple of seconds to neary a minute. The repeater is a 100watt MTR2000. I don't remember the duplexer type/model/brand. It doesn't seem to do it during the day, it seems more prevelant in the evening and mornings. Any ideas? N5NPO Norman Knapp Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Connector plating vs PIM etc.
Paul, there is a product made here in Canada by DW Electro chemicals called Stabilant 22 that works wonders on connectors. It is a liquid and is about 35 dollars for a very small bottle. You just put a very small amount of it on each mating surface of the connectors and it becomes highly conductive between the two metal surfaces. I used it on all of my repeater antenna connections and had excellent results in lowering noise problems. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Paul Kelley N1BUG paul.kelley.n1...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:16 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Connector plating vs PIM etc. OK, I guess it's about time I asked this. Is there someplace I can find a reference on various connector types (plated or not, type of plating) vs PIM/IMD/noise in duplex systems and/or in high RF environments? I am looking at replacing my run of LDF5-50A and wonder what type of connectors I *should* use. I always *thought* silver plated connectors were the way to go. But it is obvious none of the connectors on my DB4062B duplexer are silver plated. They are silver in color but they do not tarnish at all after many years... clearly not silver. I've also noticed on this Sinclair dipole array that I had problems with, the 3 x N(f) tees are silver plated but the mating N(m) connectors on the harness are not. Brass, silver, gold, tri-metal (?)... help! What are the accepted rules for connector choice for duplex systems and/or in high RF environments, and why? What about mating connectors with different plating? If a repeater is in a very low RF environment, does it even matter? Thanks! Paul N1BUG Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Do you know Any Kenwood TKR 720 in Junk? to salvage MPC......
Further to my earlier posting, I tried to locate the Microprocessor Chip for the TKR 720- IC uPD 75104G-604-1B, from all known sources in US to Hongkong! Pacparts and Kenwood HK clearly said it is out of production and no more available, AND no substitutes!!. Two requests: No.1. Can any one help me with a junk collected Display board with the above IC? D75104G-J99 (NEC) in TKB-720 can also be utilized. OR any other source for a salvaging of this chip? No2. All other PCBs and the PSU are made OK in this Amateur VHF repeater, It delivers 50W! Any modifications? or can we separate the RX and TX circuits and add some other repeater controller to eliminate the above IC. It is so sad to discard a beautiful equipment just on need of one chip!! Peter
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - (anderson power poles revisited)
Skipp, I had some (small connectors) that were made by TYCO and they seemed to have a much better spring in them and it took a lot more force to pull them apart. I suspect that soldering them may cause some of the problem, so I now have the proper' crimp tool. When you solder them the solder tends to wick back in the wire making the connection much stiffer. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 skipp...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 1:19 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - (anderson power poles revisited) Hi Martin, I normally would crimp and solder the wire into the small power pole connectors at fixed station (not moving and vibrating) locations. The intermittent was the contact(s). The contact pressure wasn't consistent and the finger tong would bend with simple force. After the second extra long service call drive to find the intermittent power connection (wiggle to restore power), I jerked them all out and never looked back. Don't have the problems with the larger power pole connectors... just the smaller ones that tend to be popular with the Amateur Radio (Ham) crowd. cheers skipp rahwayflynn mafl...@... wrote: Re your problem with the Power Pole Connectors: Was the contact itself intermittent or the wire / contact crimp? I have yet to have a prblem with them in DC service, however for signal and data, I generally use Amp CPC series. Martin skipp025 skipp025@ wrote: I stopped using small Anderson Power Pole connectors because of all the grief they caused me on the commercial radio side of my life. A lot of people like and use them but I don't trust or use them anymore after a few 10 hour days sourced back to intermittent small power-pole connectors. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2
I use the SB-50 dual connectors. They come in several colours which are a semi standard for the voltage used. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Chuck Kelsey wb2...@roadrunner.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 10:38 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2 I didn't see 50-amp ones on their site. Part number? Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Mike Naruta AA8K a...@comcast.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 10:27 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2 Ah, thank you John John J. Riddell wrote: Mike, don't use the little red / black plugsthey don't work so well. I have standardised on the 50 amp plugs...even in my car...they won't pull apart. I also use them on all my Son's farm machinery and he is very pleased with them. 73 John VE3AMZ Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2
Mike, don't use the little red / black plugsthey don't work so well. I have standardised on the 50 amp plugs...even in my car...they won't pull apart. I also use them on all my Son's farm machinery and he is very pleased with them. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Mike Naruta AA8K a...@comcast.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: A Home Brew 224 MHz Repeater Project. - Part 2 I read about the Anderson Power Pole connectors in QST and thought, What a great idea. I started using them in our county's com van for the portable 800 MHz repeater and ham gear, and was I disappointed. Even the coiled cord for the cigarette lighter plug pulled them apart. Now I'm supposed to buy a plastic clip to hold them together? Bah! I think that my toaster has a better plug on its cord. rahwayflynn wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com, skipp025 skipp...@.. . wrote: I stopped using small Anderson Power Pole connectors because of all the grief they caused me on the commercial radio side of my life. A lot of people like and use them but I don't trust or use them anymore after a few 10 hour days sourced back to intermittent small power-pole connectors. Re your problem with the Power Pole Connectors: Was the contact itself intermittent or the wire / contact crimp? I have yet to have a prblem with them in DC service, however for signal and data, I generally use Amp CPC series. Martin Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] KENWOOD TKR 720 REPEATER REPAIR- HELP
Last week I received a Kenwood TKR 720 VHF HAM band repeater for repair. It was traveling all over the country for the last five years to get a proper repair! On this travel it lost many spares, which includes the EEPROM chip (94LC 46)from the IC socket and the shielding covers. Comparing with another TKR 720, I could set right most of the Boards. The earlier experts who tried to remove the various modules from the double sided TX-RX card, taken away few SMD resistors also, may be unnoticed. Two of the 1K resistors were from the RX and TX line, which made the equipment deaf and dumb (=dead)! The front panel also have another 94LC 46 soldered, near the micro controller uPD75104G-604-1B. My present problem is to replace the micro controller which is not functioning,( I replaced it from the other set along with the 94LC46 to confirm the defect!) Can I procure the micro controller from any source and replace it simply by soldering? OR Need a pre-programmed one from the KENWOOD? Very remote chance for us. Can any of our supporters locate one for me on payment? Do we have to replace the nearby 94LC 46 also? How to program it? I have the KPT50 for the EEPROM programming of the TKR 720, but it can only be used for the frequency and other parameters set inside of the KPT 50. Commends are thankfully welcome PETER VU2PJP
Re: [Repeater-Builder] IDA Model 40-10 Interconnect
Patrick, I believe I should have a manual in my stash, from a 40-10 long ago obliterated by lightning. If so, you can have it for shipping costs. I will check this evening. John Maurer WØDP - Original Message - From: Patrick Patterson To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 6:18 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] IDA Model 40-10 Interconnect Does anyone have a manual or pinout for a IDA 40-10 interconnect? any help would be greatly appreciated. Patrick Patterson - N5SLI
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Maxtrac - Radius Mic Plug Pins to Enable CTCSS decode?
SkippIt's 5 - 6 on the 8 pin modular plug. I have one here. Now I seem to recall that Motorola counts those plugs backwards to the EIA standard So.when I say 5 and 6, face the plug away from you, tab on the top... Pin one is on your right. I use those plugs in my business here making Ethernet cablesmade several thousand of them in the last while so I've crunched quite a few of them. Some people call them an RJ-45 plugthat they are not ! RJ-45 is an electrical spec denoting the wiring in the plug. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 skipp...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 3:45 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Maxtrac - Radius Mic Plug Pins to Enable CTCSS decode? Motorola Maxtrac - Radius Mic Plug Pins to Enable CTCSS decode? Hello groovy guys and gals... The Motorola Maxtrac, GM-300, M120 and similar Radius Radios enable the CTCSS/DCS decoder on-hook, off hook with a connection through the mic jack/plug. These radios made/placed into repeater service are sold with jumper plugs placed into the mic jacks. These plugs are simply a single wire jumper looping two pins, which place the radio in full time CTCSS decode. So... the 50 cent question is... does one of you 100% know the proper two pins used to enable the CTCSS decoder? I need to make a few... thanks skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi
Gran K6RIF was asking about sturdy antenna's and my suggestion was to check on the Sinclair models. As I recall the SRL307 has a bandwidth of + or - 2.5% so it would be important to know what freq. your antenna's were cut for (ie Center frequency.) 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Gary Schafer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 11:12 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Not sure who is looking for the yagi antenna but I have three NOS Sinclair SRL307 antennas still in the box. All elements are welded. 73 Gary K4FMX -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 7:59 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Look here: http://www.sinclairtechnologies.com/catalog/product.aspx?id=89 Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Gran Clark To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 11:50 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Chuck I will call Sinclair. They don't list a welded antenna. On the beam I have the elements are mounted on the outside of the boom which I would think would be hard to make a good weld if I went that way. Gran At 07:34 PM 3/29/2009, you wrote: Forgot to add that Sinclair makes one for the amateur portion of the band. You can order direct - they have a ham discount. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Chuck Kelsey To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:24 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi I'll second that. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: John J. Riddell To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:12 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Gran, you might want to consider a Sinclair yagi...they are built like a battleship ! ...not cheap...but they work well. 73 John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi
Gran, you might want to consider a Sinclair yagi...they are built like a battleship ! ...not cheap...but they work well. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Gran Clark To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 8:55 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need supplier for UHF welded yagi Hi All We are duplexing using a UHF 11 element yagi (Cruscraft) in a hostile environment. Last weekend there were a number of 110 MPH gusts. The problem is wind noise. I have tightened the element hardware with some success. Spray it with water and it is quiet while tapping the boom with a small hammer. The beam is mounted on a 1 1/2 inch fiberglass pole. This is a 195 mile link and using 15 watts out of the duplexer. This has worked fairly well for fifteen years but the noise is a recurring problem. Some thoughts using conductive epoxy, came to mind but also I was looking for a supplier of a welded maybe 9 element yagi that might work. We need a yagi to give co channel protection to the North (beam headed East). Gran K6RIF
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E
Re the Sinclair RES-LOC Q2220E Duplexer, they make a much better version, the Q2330E model. We use one here on VE3KSR, 146.970 It has 100 Db of Tx - Rx isolation at 500 Khz and midband isolation of 55 Db as opposed to 30 Db in the Q2220. Power rating is 350 watts on each unit. The Q2330E has three cavities on each side. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: AJ To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E We have one in place right now on the 600 KHz split at 25 watts from a MastrII... Very noticeable desense... Not very happy with the setup... But we're doing the best we can with what was on the hill when we started... Oh well lol. On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 12:39 PM, ve7fet yahoogro...@woldanski.com wrote: Actually, the comment below isn't quite true. The Q2220E is a Res-Lok duplexer, but there are no machined coupling ports between the cavities. I just took the loops out of one to confirm. The coupling between the cavities is a function of the pickup loop inside the cavity, and the coax between them. However, in the C2034 type Res-Lok combiners, there ARE coupling ports machined between the bandpass section cavities (confirmed that too). Of interesting note on the Q2220E, the docs from Sincliar show two different harnesses available, presumably one for high split, and one for low. I have two Q2220E's here, one factory 143/148 and the other 152/157. They both have the same harness on them (320mm inter-cavity of RG400), and the pickup loops are the same size too (110mm). If you run the numbers for 320mm and a velocity factor of 0.695, you get a center frequency for the harness of 163MHz. If you wanted to optimize the tuning for the best response in the ham band, you may want to consider re-building the harness and changing the inter-cavity lengths to 355mm. I wouldn't change the lengths of the pickup loops as that is going to significantly change the response. Also note, the Q2220E makes a good candidate to modify for 220MHz... just ask Dave Cameron... http://www.irlp.net/duplexer Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon wb6...@... wrote: Part of the problem is that the Q2220E duplexer uses the Res-Lok design, wherein the coupling between cavities of each pair is via a machined port between them, rather than a cabled coupling loop that can be adjusted.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E
AJ, the only suggestion that I have is to add a regular cavity on each side if you have some availablethat 2220 is probably never going to work very well at 600 Khz. If your PA is causing spursput an antenna tuner on the output of the TX between the TX and the Duplexer, and tune it for minimum VSWR...that should clean it up GE did this with a device they called a Z Matcher. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: AJ To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 7:35 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E Any suggestions for improving the situation with our existing Q2220E duplexer? We could turn the P/A down even further, but there's not much more room to work with with this 40 watt P/A from it's current 25 watt level without causing spurs... On Wed, Mar 25, 2009 at 3:44 PM, John J. Riddell ve3...@earthlink.net wrote: Re the Sinclair RES-LOC Q2220E Duplexer, they make a much better version, the Q2330E model. We use one here on VE3KSR, 146.970 It has 100 Db of Tx - Rx isolation at 500 Khz and midband isolation of 55 Db as opposed to 30 Db in the Q2220. Power rating is 350 watts on each unit. The Q2330E has three cavities on each side. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: AJ To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E We have one in place right now on the 600 KHz split at 25 watts from a MastrII... Very noticeable desense... Not very happy with the setup... But we're doing the best we can with what was on the hill when we started... Oh well lol. On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 12:39 PM, ve7fet yahoogro...@woldanski.com wrote: Actually, the comment below isn't quite true. The Q2220E is a Res-Lok duplexer, but there are no machined coupling ports between the cavities. I just took the loops out of one to confirm. The coupling between the cavities is a function of the pickup loop inside the cavity, and the coax between them. However, in the C2034 type Res-Lok combiners, there ARE coupling ports machined between the bandpass section cavities (confirmed that too). Of interesting note on the Q2220E, the docs from Sincliar show two different harnesses available, presumably one for high split, and one for low. I have two Q2220E's here, one factory 143/148 and the other 152/157. They both have the same harness on them (320mm inter-cavity of RG400), and the pickup loops are the same size too (110mm). If you run the numbers for 320mm and a velocity factor of 0.695, you get a center frequency for the harness of 163MHz. If you wanted to optimize the tuning for the best response in the ham band, you may want to consider re-building the harness and changing the inter-cavity lengths to 355mm. I wouldn't change the lengths of the pickup loops as that is going to significantly change the response. Also note, the Q2220E makes a good candidate to modify for 220MHz... just ask Dave Cameron... http://www.irlp.net/duplexer Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon wb6...@... wrote: Part of the problem is that the Q2220E duplexer uses the Res-Lok design, wherein the coupling between cavities of each pair is via a machined port between them, rather than a cabled coupling loop that can be adjusted.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Making PDFs
Dave, try down loading a small program called Cute PDF writer...it's free and will make PDF's for you. It is set up as a printer but saves them to a file on your computer. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Dave Gomberg da...@wcf.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 6:55 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Making PDFs At 15:37 3/22/2009, Kris Kirby wrote: No way around it unless I want to lose PDF authoring capability. Buy a Mac Actually WordPerfect makes beautiful PDF files and has for years... -- Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html - Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] PL vs. DPL
Sorry if this isnt the best place to post this... Is there a benefit to using a DPL vs a PL? I am putting a repeater together and thought I would try and get some input... Thanks! Jason
Re: [Repeater-Builder] exec I vs exec II
Correct.The exec 1 had totally different innardsthe exec II is similar to the Mastr II The exec 1 had three tubes8106, x 2and 7984 PA John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Thomas Oliver tsoli...@tir.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 5:29 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] exec I vs exec II I think the exec I had a tube final RX was solid state looks nothing like an exec II so I would say no. tom [Original Message] From: Chris Curtis demo...@rollanet.org To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: 3/3/2009 5:06:57 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] exec I vs exec II Anyone have a short version of the differences between an exec I station and an exec II station? Are the innards swappable? Thanks for your time. Chris Kb0wlf Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone number for K5JXM ?
Folks,.I replied privately to Chris, and since I was the guy
who put ths info on here as a favour to Mike, WA6ILQ,
it seems to me that this should end now.
In hindsight, it probably should have been a private E mail to Mike...
(I had to laugh when I was described as a Unknown third party)
lets get off this topic, and back to Repeater builder info.
73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo Ontario
- Original Message -
From: Bill Hudson
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone
number for K5JXM ?
Chris - you are not a licensed amateur radio operator.
You got your GMRS system less than a year ago.
You live in Newport County, where records show a significant amount of
information.
CHRIS L CARRUBA Get More Information
25 BRISTOL FERRY RD
PORTSMOUTH, RI 02871(401) 683-3394
Complete Report on CHRIS L CARRUBA
It's all out there for everyone to see.
--
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Carruba
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 4:38 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone
number for K5JXM ?
I would be extremely pissed off if someone published my personal info on a
public board in this manor.
Chris Carruba (WQIK389)
CompuTec Data Systems
Custom Written Software,
Networking, Forensic Data Recovery
--
From: John J. Riddell ve3...@earthlink.net
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 11:36:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone
number for K5JXM ?
Mike, from the Internet...
73 John VE3AMZ
Jesse Marroquin
2312 Senna Hills Ln
Plano, TX 75025-4786
(972) 396-5807
- Original Message -
From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ wa6...@gmail. com
To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 11:18 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone number
for K5JXM ?
I'm looking for contact info for Jesse Marroquin K5JXM in Plano Texas.
Mike WA6ILQ
- - --
Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone number for K5JXM ?
Mike, from the Internet... 73 John VE3AMZ Jesse Marroquin 2312 Senna Hills Ln Plano, TX 75025-4786 (972) 396-5807 - Original Message - From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ wa6...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 11:18 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Anybody have an email address or a phone number for K5JXM ? I'm looking for contact info for Jesse Marroquin K5JXM in Plano Texas. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax Interconnect (Inside Repeater)
Mike, the BNC connector was designed for quick insertion / disconnect and works very well in most applications. However the Type N connector is much more robust and would be my choice for critical connections such as a Duplexer or an Antenna etc We use them all the time in the Telephone business for DS-3 connections. Here is some history on the BNC connector... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BNC_connector 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Mike Pugh mikep...@mikepugh.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 3:55 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax Interconnect (Inside Repeater) Alexander N Tubonjic wrote: I am wanting to swap out the BNC receiver connector to an N connector on my Kenwood TKR-750 2 meter repeater. After contacting Kenwood and getting quoted some crack prices I figured I'd see if anyone has anything laying around or has any ideas on here. Why? electrically, the BNC connectors and the N connectors are the same thing. Don't believe me? Try plugging them together.. Even though they won't latch together, electrically, they fit together perfectly, and can be used this way in an emergency if you're at a tower site and find you don't have the proper connector.. What am I missing? Mike Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Stabilant
Eric, That stuff works really well...I've been using it for many years and it was developed here in Canada by DW Electrochemicals Ltd in Richmond Hill Ont. It works well on radio's that have multiple boards interconnected by pins that become intermittent, such as the Yaesu FT 2400H. I'm sure that Electro-Sonic in Toronto carries itthe last time I bought it here is Waterloo from Primespec, it was about $35.00 Canadian and that would about $29.00 US. I can confirm the price if you would like... 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 1:58 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Stabilant A week or so ago, I posted the statement that Motorola had adopted Stabilant 22A as a preferred electrical contact enhancer, and had given it the part number 1180369E78. I now know that Motorola has discontinued that part number and replaced it with 1180384V93, priced at $46. The difference between the two part numbers is that 1180369E78 was a pre-mixed vial containing 15 mL of pure Stabilant 22 and 99% pure isopropanol in a 4:1 ratio, AKA Stabilant 22A, while 1180384V93 is a kit containing 5 mL of pure Stabilant 22 and an empty 15 mL bottle. The included instructions direct you to put half of the 5 mL Stabilant 22 into the 15 mL bottle, and then add either 99% pure isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol) or 100% pure ethanol (grain alcohol) to obtain 12.5 mL of Stabilant 22A or Stabilant 22E, respectively. You eventually wind up with 25 mL of the Stabilant mixture, enough to last a very long time. Be careful to use only extremely pure alcohols for these mixtures, not rubbing alcohol, because the less-pure versions contain water or other adulterants for denaturing or diluting the product. Methanol (wood alcohol) or denatured alcohol should not be used. Technical literature, application notes, and MSDSs can be found here: http://www.stabilant.com/ 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Triplett 630 Multimeter
Triplett 630 Multimeter I came across the manual for the Triplett 630 Analogue Multimeter on the Internet in PDF format, and if anyone needs it I can send it to them. It's about 30 pages if you print it. John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: fan timer circuit
Kevin, another method of slowing down an AC fan is to put a capacitor in series with the AC leads as a voltage dropping element. A local Ham played with this idea many years ago and as I recall he started with a 1 Mfd paper capacitor. In his case he dropped the voltage to around 90 volts to the fan. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Kevin Custer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2008 8:58 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: fan timer circuit n...@no6b.com wrote: One reason why I've dismissed using any switching on my 110 V cooling fans let them spin 24/7. I have used 220 V muffin fans on 110 V and they last for years. I put one in service in 1997, and it's still turning. Kevin
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Amateur Radio Repeater Usage - what are you going to do about it?
Benjamin, The sparse activity seems to be everywhere.One suggestion is to add IRLP to your repeater. When there is no local activity there always seems to be someone listening on the various reflectors all over the world and you can chat with them. Some time back, I was driving to pick up my wife from work at 7 PM here in Ontario, and I came across a fellow Ham in Japan who was also driving but it was 7 AM in the morning there. IRLP activity would certainly be of interest to anyone listening to our Ham repeaters on a scanner and it may just be the spark to get them interested in becoming a Ham. The inventor of IRLP is a Canadian Ham and is a member of this list, VE7LTD 73 John VE3AMZ (A Ham for 50 years) Waterloo, Ontario - Original Message - From: Benjamin L. Naber benja...@kb9lfz.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:47 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Amateur Radio Repeater Usage - what are you going to do about it? So after reading a few messages, I began to think, what is each person who gets these messages now going to do about it? I guess you have a few options. Sit on your butt in front of the idiot box like 90% of all Americans and not do anything but complain. -Or- Do something about like going attending club meetings and begin public service events. The ARRL has a lot of getting involved with amateur radio. I read it about five years ago and to this day I still do what I can which my military time consuming job allows - I still go on the air, even if it's on the rid home.. Read my article in June/July 2004 QST. Unless you have a positive thing you are going do, then never mind this post and do not reply. ~Benjamin, KB9LFZ Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sinclair q202gc duplexers
Jason, check with Sinclair, I understand that they will sell you a cable kit for the freq. that you need. Putting on a bunch of N connectors and doing it well is not a job for the Faint of Heart 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Jason Arnold To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 1:33 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sinclair q202gc duplexers Do you know of a good place to have the cables made? I suck at doing coax and I am sure this needs to be quality. This is my 2 repeater and the first time really dealing with duplexers. The first system the duplexers where wacom and allready tuned. Thanks -Jason --- On Sun, 11/23/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sinclair q202gc duplexers To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, November 23, 2008, 5:42 AM At 11/21/2008 20:03, you wrote: I am new to the sinclair line of duplexers. I have a set of used vhf duplexers setup in the high vhf range. current freqs are 165.2375 and 165.1375. Has anyone had luck changing the coax harness to the longer 36cm and getting the duplexers to tune down to the two meter band? Direct answer: yes. To get it to work on 2 meters, the jumpers running from each can to the attached Ts need to be lengthened. Although I got acceptable from the one I had after doing this, for optimum performance all the cables need to be lengthened. Bob NO6B
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MFJ Analyzers (was Need SWR meter recomendation)
Jim, The attachment can't be openedmaybe you sould re-send it...? 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Jim Brown To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 1:07 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MFJ Analyzers (was Need SWR meter recomendation) Her are some interesting comments on the MFJ SWR analyzers that were published in QST. I hope the attached file is not too large for download. 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Sun, 11/23/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need SWR meter recomendation To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, November 23, 2008, 9:21 AM The latest models of the 259/269 have a recessed power switch to prevent it from being turned on accidentally. Bill - WA0CBW In a message dated 11/23/2008 12:53:06 A.M. Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] com writes: Albert, I've had friends joke about MFJ standing for mighty fine junk, but I have nothing but good things to say about my MFJ 259 antenna analyzer. If you're building antennas, the MFJ 259 (HF/VHF) or 269 (HF/VHF/UHF) are really handy. If you're trying to find the resonant frequency or set up a gamma match, they'll save a ton of time compared to an SWR bridge/transmitter combination, and give you more information, such as resistance and reactance displayed separately on the LCD. It also serves as a counter and, in a pinch, as a (not-very-stable and somewhat microphonic) signal generator. But remember the limitations. You can't transmit through them, so they can't be used to monitor the behavior of an antenna under operating conditions. They can't be used to measure a transmitter' s output power like most SWR bridges. They're also prone to error in any environment where strong external signals from nearby transmitters overwhelm the test signal internally generated by the analyzer, which results in a false reading of reflected power. I would recommend these little boxes to anyone, but do have one major complaint - the internal battery scheme. The thing takes 10 AA cells, they don't last long, and you have to remove several screws and the case to change them. You have to be really careful how you transport the 259, because the power button sticks out where any bump will turn it on, and run your batteries down. After having the power bumped on during storage and a resulting leak of the alkalines after they ran down, I cleaned it up (no permanent damage) and just don't put batteries in mine any more. I use it on the AC adapter, a cigarette lighter cord, or an external battery pack, all plugged into the 15V input. But I won't be without one! 73, Paul, AE4KR
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Doug Hall Remote Base Interface
At 02:29 PM 10/28/2008 +, you wrote: Two Questions: 1.) Is there a controller under $500 that easily interfaces with the Doug Hall box? 2.) Does anyone have a Doug Hall remote base controller they'd like to get rid of? :-) I do. Steve, W4HKL
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola TLD-1100 Wanted,please help if you can.
See http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/cellphone/8928/ At 10:26 PM 10/22/2008 -0400, you wrote: Hi,after I just e-mailed you I got thinking,my friend wants to hook up the old bag phone to the head.You guys in this club are much more knowledgable on the old stuff than he is so I figured I would ask if this is the best way to do it. What would you advise ? I would put in a whole unit if it's easier but I don't know how to hook it up to the modern cell networks.The bag idea is just what we were thinking was the easiest,any advice would be great,Greg.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Desense with DB4060 Duplexer
Scott, a product that I have used on all kinds of connections including RF is Stabilant 22. It is made in Richmond Hill Ontario and does a wonderful job of making a good connection between metal surfaces. It is quite expensive, $35.00 for a small bottle but you only need a drop of it to work. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 11:59 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Desense with DB4060 Duplexer If the silver plating seems to be scratched, I have had good luck with the products that are used to silver plate circuit boards. I don't recall the product name that I used, but it was/is available from Digikey and such. I merely used fine steel wool to polish the plunger and then used the silverplating kit to re-plate it. Here is one product I ran across in a google search: http://www.cool-amp.com/cool-amp.html WARNING: The silverplating plating is NOT very thick. It won't take much to scratch it back off, but if you lube the finger stock with a conductive lube it will last longer. I have used no-ox in the past, but Cool-amps's Conducto-Lube might be a better choice. I have had no experience with it. Good luck, Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Desense with DB4060 Duplexer skipp025 wrote: You didn't say how you'd cleaned the surface in the past. I would only use a Brass or hard Stainless Steel brush to avoid embedding non same metals into the plunger or contact surface. Using a common steel wire brush is not a good idea. s. Also NEVER use an over the counter chemical treatment to clean the surfaces. Products like TARN-X are not acceptable for cleaning electronic equipment; relay contacts, duplexer guts, etc! Kevin Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.7.6/1714 - Release Date: 10/8/2008 7:01 AM Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] WTD - Moto TLN8381A Micor rx reed - 100.0
As the subject says, I'm in need of a 100.0 reed for a Micor receiver. I have a 103.5 or 156.7 to swap if that helps you any. This is the slightly larger reed than the transmit (and other equipment) uses. Please email direct. Thanks Mike/W5JR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Repeater-Builder] coax length
Colin, Non inductive resistors are quite inductive above 30 Mhz. The Cantenna is also a poor load at VHF / UHF. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] coax length I am not sure what would make a good or not good load resistor. I am using a pair of non inductive 100 ohm 100 watt resistors in parallel, air cooled. I also use a cantenna. Are these not good or fair? Thanks, Collin -Original Message- From: wd8chl [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] coax length [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dear RP, I am doing some testing and have the 145.410 repeater connected to a dummy load. To get an accurate output indication in watts is it critical to have 1/2 wavelength cables? I have used an 18 cable from TX to wattmeter and then a 72 cable from wattmeter to load resistor. I have noticed a big difference in wattmeter indication between using the 72 cable and connecting the load right to the wattmeter. Also the same indication with a cable 144 long. I am making some cables 1/2 wavelength long for tuning use. Am I doing right? Thanks, Collin If you have a good dummy load, it WILL NOT matter what length coax you use. In fact, I try to make sure my cables are NOT resonant. If there's a significant difference when you go from a resonant cable to a non-resonant one, or from a 1/4-wave to a 1/2-wave, there is a problem with the load. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense
Try putting a one inch dia, single turn loop on the end of a coax feed line to a receiver. Use it to sniff around inside the box to find the RF. 73 de KN6TD (s) Derek At 11:42 AM 8/31/2008 -0400, you wrote: I've tried everything, it seems, and I still have desense!! Even when I connect only the repeater (Yaesu Musen FTR-1510) and a controller (needed to make the repeater transmit) and put a dummy load on the TX out, I get desense. Following up on Eric's suggestion about holes leaking RF, I sealed the edges and holes in the TX and RX units inside the repeater, and I built a shield to enclose the back side of the TX connector that is on the back side of the repeater. That might have reduced the desense a little bit, but not much. I even ran the TX feedline to an outside wire-mesh chair in an effort to reduce any possible radiation getting from the dummy load to the receiver. There was still the same desense. The desense is at least 10 dB. It appears to me that the desense has to be occurring inside the repeater cabinet, but for the life of me I can't see how this can be. Everything seems to be well shielded. So, I'd very much like to hear your theories and suggestions. Is there some way to find the source of the desense radiation? Is there some way that unshielded control lines, audio lines, and power lines can carry RF to the receiver? I have looked at the output of the repeater TX with a spectrum analyzer [tnx Tom N4ZPT] and it is clean. While I don't think the following is significant, for completeness I note that the repeater RX and TX both appear to be several kilohertz low in frequency. However, I do not have a frequency counter, and I am only checking the frequencies by the use of an HT and mobile, both modern transceivers by Yaesu. Your thoughts, suggestions, and sympathy will be appreciated. John AF4PD
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense
John, Make sure that every wire going in to the RX and TX box has a feed thru cap in series with it. Also you might put a few small ferrite beads on each wire as well. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: John Transue To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:35 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense Eric, Comments/answers interspersed below. Thanks for the help. I believe you are confirming that the problem is within the box, probably the cables. John -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 12:30 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense John, You really need to use accurate test equipment, preferably a service monitor, to verify your frequencies. Yes, my old Singer service monitor is not good enough to be useful. There is a service monitor for sale (CT 3000B Communications Service Monitor) for $800. Does this seem reasonable?) Unless your repeater and duplexer are exactly on frequency, your desense problem could possibly be due to the notches on the duplexer not being coincident with the TX and RX frequencies of the repeater. It occurs even when there is no duplexer. The Yaesu FTR-1510, like the similar low-tier products from Kenwood, Motorola, Icom, and Ritron, is intended for less-stringent applications- construction sites, shopping malls, race tracks, etc. As I have mentioned in other postings to this list, some of these boxes are equipped with single-braid coaxial cable to connect various modules within the enclosure. The Motorola GR1225 and Vertex VXR-5000 are examples of this cost-cutting practice. I have corrected significant desense in these two models by replacing the internal jumpers with RG-400/U cable. I have performed the test described below, and the result is that there is desense within the repeater. The cables appear to be good, i.e. the shielding appears to be heavy silver coated braid. Nevertheless, the cables are about the only possibility left that I know of. I guess I have to check them or replace them next. One way to settle this issue is to first program the FTR-1510 as a base station, or simply disable the repeat function, and program your TX and RX frequencies without any CTCSS tones. Put a suitable dummy load directly on the repeater's TX output connector, preferably one that screws onto the output connector itself, without any cable or adapter fitting. Using a service monitor, inject a signal at the RX frequency directly into the repeater's receive connector. The test signal should be frequency-modulated with a 1 kHz tone set for 3 kHz deviation. Monitor the de-emphasized receive audio using the SINAD meter function, and set the amplitude to achieve a 12 dB SINAD reading. If the repeater is properly tuned, this signal level will be in the range of -119 dBm to -113 dBm, or 0.25 to 0.5 uV. Now, while watching the SINAD meter reading, key the transmitter. If the SINAD meter reading drops significantly when the transmitter is keyed, you have in-cabinet desense! The cure is probably going to require making up new double-shielded cables. I don't know what's inside the Yaesu FTR-1510, but I will assume that three cables are needed: One cable from the bulkhead RX jack to the receiver input, one cable from the exciter output to the PA input, and one cable from the PA output to the bulkhead TX jack. Before replacing any cables, check for loose or missing shields, missing cover screws, loose connectors, etc.- anything that might allow RF to sneak in where it doesn't belong. If the above test proves that the desense is not caused by leakage within the repeater enclosure, check to see if the duplexer frequencies exactly match those in the repeater. It is important to use the same equipment to check the duplexer and the repeater; it is more important for the tuning to be the same rather than be exactly on the center frequency. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Eric, Thanks. John -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 8:42 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense I've tried everything, it seems, and I still have desense!! Even when I connect only the repeater (Yaesu Musen FTR-1510) and a controller (needed to make the repeater transmit) and put a dummy load on the TX out, I get desense. Following up on Eric's suggestion about holes leaking RF, I sealed the edges and holes in the TX and RX units inside the repeater, and I built a shield to enclose the back side of the TX connector that is on the back
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense
John, Feed thru capacitors look like a peice of wire with a blob in the middle, and have a 1/4 locknut on one side. You drill the chassis and insert the feed thru cap then mount it tightly with a nut. Then attach the incoming wires to the outside of the cap. Check Maggiore's web site...you might see a picture of them there as they use them on their Tx and Rx assemblies. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: John Transue To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense Chuck, John Bob, Derek, Eric, Mike, JohnB, and Tom, Thank you all for the helpful suggestions. The connectors appear to be perfect, and they check out with DC. The cable on the RX side is double shielded RG142B/U. The cable on the TX side is not marked with a complete designation. It says AWM Style 1354, but there are many cables that are said to be UL AWM Style 1354. Some of these are 75 ohm, some are 50 ohm. This cable is only six inches long. I plan to replace this as soon as I can get RG400 or other suitable cable. BNC connectors are used on both the RX unit and the TX unit. I don't know what it means to have a feed through capacitor in series with a control or audio or power cable. However, a capacitor to ground might be good to get rid of stray RF. Pray if you are so inclined. Otherwise, hope we can make the physics work. Thanks again, JohnT -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:06 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense I was wondering the same thing. Has someone added some wiring and subsequently breached the integrity of the shielding effectiveness somewhere? First thing to come to mind is controller interfacing and CTCSS wiring. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: John J. Riddell To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 2:43 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense John, Make sure that every wire going in to the RX and TX box has a feed thru cap in series with it. Also you might put a few small ferrite beads on each wire as well. John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense
John, Check this link to see a picture of a feed thru cap: http://www.surplussales.com/Capacitors/CapacitorsAll.html 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: John Transue To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense Chuck, John Bob, Derek, Eric, Mike, JohnB, and Tom, Thank you all for the helpful suggestions. The connectors appear to be perfect, and they check out with DC. The cable on the RX side is double shielded RG142B/U. The cable on the TX side is not marked with a complete designation. It says AWM Style 1354, but there are many cables that are said to be UL AWM Style 1354. Some of these are 75 ohm, some are 50 ohm. This cable is only six inches long. I plan to replace this as soon as I can get RG400 or other suitable cable. BNC connectors are used on both the RX unit and the TX unit. I don't know what it means to have a feed through capacitor in series with a control or audio or power cable. However, a capacitor to ground might be good to get rid of stray RF. Pray if you are so inclined. Otherwise, hope we can make the physics work. Thanks again, JohnT -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:06 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense I was wondering the same thing. Has someone added some wiring and subsequently breached the integrity of the shielding effectiveness somewhere? First thing to come to mind is controller interfacing and CTCSS wiring. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: John J. Riddell To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 2:43 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense John, Make sure that every wire going in to the RX and TX box has a feed thru cap in series with it. Also you might put a few small ferrite beads on each wire as well. John VE3AMZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws
One problem that I have found with pre-threaded 10-32 holes on racks etc, is that they paint them after they thread the holes. If you try to turn a screw in these holes, it will likely twist off. The best way to clean them out is to get a 10-32 tap and put it on the drill chuck and carefully run it in. Some racks that we use at work, have a peice of steel just behind the rack screw holes so you have to be really careful with a drill tap in these or you'll twist the tap off. We use 10-32 Robertson screws, square head type. (A Canadian invention). For racks with slightly larger holes that are not threaded, we use 12-24 self tapping screws. I think the original question on this thread was to find the clips for those racks that have a square hole in them instead of 10-32 holes, and several people have given good suggestions as to where to locate these. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: wd8chl [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 11:20 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws Most GE and Glenayre cabinets have either 10-32 threaded holes already, or holes designed to be threaded to 10-32. The screws used on Glenayre cabinets are self-tapping 10-32's. Put a 5/16 nutdriver bit on your drill and run 'em in, it'll thread right up. Butch Kanvick wrote: The clips are called tinerman clips and I have found them at auto parts stores but I think they are a little spendey. They do come in different gauge (screw) sizes, I think the GE ones are #10. I have found them in bulk, but they are black and not silver. The model number is stamped on the tinerman clips. McMasters also might be for a source. Butch, KE7FEL/r To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:45:17 +Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws Hello Everyone,Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the rackmount cabinet rails.Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more equipment.73 and thanks,DougN4TZD Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws
Hammond Mfg has them...they are 10 - 32 nuts. They are also available in metric and a few other sizes as well. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: souryatlexcomincdotnet [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 7:45 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws Hello Everyone, Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the rackmount cabinet rails. Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more equipment. 73 and thanks, Doug N4TZD Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Registered Sex Offenders
Hey Guys. Could we drop this and get back to Repeater technical stuff...??? FCC rules discussion are also forbidden on this site, are they not...? 73 John VE3AMZ Canada. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 2:13 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Registered Sex Offenders The withholding of licenses by the government for criminal offenses typically involves the description of the offense as one involving moral turpitude. An offense of a sexual nature is indicative of moral turpitude. On the other hand, robbing a bank does not invoke this description. Go figure. In a message dated 8/9/2008 11:38:46 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Paul Plack - Please site the law that forbids felons from having ham radio licenses. You act like you speak with authority - I'd like you to demonstrate it for me please. Bill - W6CBS -- Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Getting a Freq Counter to Read Lower
Kevin, Ramsey used to make an audio multiplier kit which would do what you want. I have one at home but am currently working away from home. The other thing that will work is a Fluke 8060A DMM. That is what I useit has a built in audio freq. counter. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Gmail - Kevin, Natalia, Stacey Rochelle To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:16 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Getting a Freq Counter to Read Lower Hi All, I have a Optoelectronics Handi-Counter Model 2300. I brought it at Dayton in 1995. A great piece of equipment, and I use it alot. Still works fine, except I pulled the NICADs out a few year back, not holding there charge, and never got around to replacing them, works fine from 12v. However I had a need to read the freq of some CTCSS modules, but when I went to use my counter I found that it would only go to 1Mhz. I do not have another counter handy and I understand that I can build a small add-on board to get it to read down below the min reading of the counter. Is a multiplier the correct term? Any ideas on what I can do? If I have to get another counter so be it, but for the number of times I go below 1Mhz I would like to try other ideas first. Thanks Kevin, ZL1KFM. Get Skype and call me for free. sparc_nz Description: Binary data
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr Professional Strip Covers
Fred, I have a complete Mastr Pro UHF repeater...I'd like to get rid of but it's in a desk mate cabinet and I want to keep the cabinet. This one has all the extra shielding for repeater use.. It can be had for the cost of the shippingprobably a transport truck or similar would be the best. 73 John VE3AMZ Waterloo, Ont - Original Message - From: Fred Seamans To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 5:03 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr Professional Strip Covers I want to locate the station Tx and Rx top and bottom strip covers with the meter plug on the top cover of each for a 150 MHz Tx and Rx and a 450 MHz Tx and Rx. If anybody has these 4 covers and would be willing to pitch them my way, please contact me direct. I do not want the Tx or Rx strips, just the covers that are used in the base station configuration. Thanks Fred W5VAY
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
Yes there is a new version available from Fluke. I have one as well as two of the older versions. One is in my shirt pocket at all times ! If you ever tried to check a dead string of Christmas tree lights, then this thing is what you need. It will show you where the bad bulb is located by not lighting up past the bulb. If you check an outlet and see power on both the hot and the neutral, then the ground is missing. They are very handy in checking a power panel to find the open breaker, or a blown glass fuse. These are one of the best and simplest AC testers ever built. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Tom [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 3:16 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards Nate wrote: From the link you sent: This product is discontinued. Just to the right of the words, This product is discontinued is a line that says, Fluke suggests... and lists the 1ACII with a link to it. Appears to be just a newer version of the same thing; I didn't read what's different about it. Anyway, they do still have one available. Tom --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Jul 4, 2008, at 5:30 PM, Thomas Oliver wrote: I highly recomend one of these to anyone working around electricity. http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnit edStates Best $20.00 I spent. tom n8ie From the link you sent: This product is discontinued. -- Nate Duehr, WY0X [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: software repeater controller
I remember Altairs. Still have one. At 07:15 PM 6/18/2008 +, you wrote: --- In mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Alexandre Souza alexandre- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For multiple audio ports these days I'd recommend using USB audio devices. ISA slots are way gone and PCI slots aren't far behind. For an embedded PC controlling radios 24/7 you want something small, quiet and low power, most form factors that fit that description usually have few if any PCI slots. A PC controlling a repeater?!?!?! What is the problem of using a small microcontroller, with some BASIC programming??? You are using a cannon to kill a microbe he he he Not at all. Using a PC to control a repeater as complex as the system here with remotes etc. is a perfectly logical choice and allows nearly unlimited flexability. The original controller on the system here back in the mid 1980s was a Commodore VIC-20 :). Any young'ens remember those? - Darrell/KA7BTV
Re: [Repeater-Builder] need info on Yaesu FTR-2410A repeater
I have a manual. What do you need to know? 73 de KN6TD (s) Derek At 05:38 PM 6/6/2008 -0500, you wrote: Hello Folks, Does anyone have information on the Yaesu FTR-2410A VHF repeater? We have aquired one from a working environment but will need to put it on a different pair for 2M. Anything as far a tune-up procedures, schematics, etc would be welcomed. Please email off list. Thanks. 73 Paul - KC0HST
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna suggestions for 440mhz
Not so Mount it side ways at a reasonable height above ground, go out a half mile to a couple of miles, take signal strength readings as you circle around it. Better, if you have a rotator, send the transmitter out and rotate the antenna and note strength readings vs bearings. Are you anywhere near southern California? (s) Derek (KN6TD) At 10:29 AM 6/7/2008 -0500, you wrote: down-tilt is specified when ordering the unit other than the original paperwork, the only method would be to have it tested on a test range and that would probably cost more than ordering a new one Gary - Original Message - From: n9wys To: mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 10:22 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna suggestions for 440mhz In fear of moving off topic... I'd like to ask how one can determine the electrical downtilt of an antenna? I just put into service a RSF/Celwave Super StationmasterR Model 10017-6 that is designed for 925-960 MHz on my 927.5250 repeater. The added gain factor of the antenna (an additional 4dBd over what was previously in place - a Decibel DB586-Y) does not seem to benefit the receive (at 902 MHz). I gained what seems like a little extra receive range, but not equal to what I seem to have gained in transmit coverage. This discussion thread leads me to wonder if maybe some electrical downtilt may be affecting the receive frequency? Is this possible? Antennas are not my strong point. ;-) Thanks, Mark - N9WYS
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Old GE, RCA and Motorola Tube Radios
Skipp, back in the early 60's we used to use a sponge taken from the inside of a defective Vibrator (Only the old timers will remember these things). It worked well to protect your fingers. I still have one of these things around here somewhere :-)) Someone made a tool for removing tubes but it had a plastic piece on the end of each tong and they often melted which smelled very bad. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 5:06 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Old GE, RCA and Motorola Tube Radios Anyone who has or had a tube type GE, RCA or Motorola Radio probably learned the hard way that one can't fudge the time required for the tubes to cool down... before you try and pull them out of the chassis. Tis a finger burn you will remember for a very long time. cheers, s. Thomas Oliver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I still have a bunch of brand new tubes for Mastr Pro Stuff. tom n8ies [Original Message] From: JOHN MACKEY [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: 5/23/2008 9:15:53 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: mice and the trusty old GE Master Pro Most of my repeaters are built from Mastr Pro on 6 meters, 2 meters, UHF. They are very good, the receivers are good and the transmitters are good except for the early UHF (with the tube tripler). -- Original Message -- Received: Fri, 23 May 2008 04:33:13 PM PDT From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: mice and the trusty old GE Master Pro Re: mice and the GE Master Pro What you didn't say was how the GE Master Pro in most typical cases probably kept working as normal. Hard as heck to kill a GE Master Pro I'd still have a number of them in service except I have to pay the site power bill and those tx strip tubes love to stay warm 24/7. The Master Pro Receivers are still very much killer good for current repeater projects. The front ends are very stout and the design is a well known solid peformer. I hate to see the receivers go in the dumpster... cheers, skipp The Later Mastr Pro GE series base stations used a slanted heat sink for the 12.6 and 10 V pass regulators. The chassis formed the back, and there was a cover on the front making a conduit for forced air from the 4 inch muffin fan. Poor field mouse got into the slanted heat sink, lost his grip, and went head first into the muffin fan - - did not decapitate but did trap him there and stall the fan - found the mummified remains some time later - then there are stories of a micor repeater loosing the 10 v return in the exciter - due to mouse urine destroying the trace on the PCB and various stories of stench. Best Memorial Day wishes to all, 73, Steve NU5D Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1458 - Release Date: 5/21/2008 7:21 AM Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton 2008
Scott, missed seeing you guys there this year...hope you can go next year . There was no rain but some wind this year. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton 2008 I asked my XYL if the Repeater-Builder group would qualify for one of Hamvention's reduced-price Club spaces?? ($100 for 4 spaces) My kids will be old enough next year to allow for my wife and I to tend some tables. If we do get a few club spaces, we can all have a central location to meet other board members, plus sell a few items on the club table without having to pay $70 per space!!! As we have done in the past, we can bring our canopy that will cover 3 spaces, so we would have shelter. I already have a banner that says Repeater-Builder on it. We'll just need to be sure to make it look like a club booth and not a commercial tailgating spot. We have tried the dinner thing in the past with not real good results, but maybe a meeting tent would be a good idea. I will try to get 4 club spaces next year and see how that goes. I will let everyone know how I make out early next spring. Comments? Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 2:24 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton 2008 So you were there too, Jeff??? That does it - next year, WE (or at least *I*) absolutely NEED to coordinate a meet location and time, so we can put faces to names! I'm so frustrated I missed everyone! Maybe next year I'll float a mini-blimp over my head with my call on it... kinda like KE8T- who had the quagi on his hardhat. (NOT!!!) Apparently my callsign mametag wasn't enough to git 'r' done. hehehe Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of Jeff DePolo It was great to meet up with Bob, Dave, Jeff and everyone else who made Dayton 2008 a lot of fun. I kept trying to encourage Bob to buy more surplus radio gear... Where were you Sunday? NO6B bought lunch (brats) but you were nowhere to be found... My back hurts from hauling a near weight-limit suitcase back to the left/west coast so you know I fell off my 12-Step Junker Enders Program for a short time. I'm both grateful and disappointed I don't live within driving distance of the Dayton Hamvention. In a moment of weakness (or perhaps utter stupidity?), on Sunday I bought roughly 16000 electrolytic capacitors, 1000 ferrite chokes, a few hundred toggle switches, a few hundred LED's, and a few hundred other random components and connectors, all new in bags or on tape reels, for $100. I almost escaped with the truck mostly-empty. My XYL was overjoyed with my last-minute purchase...NOT. --- Jeff Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1454 - Release Date: 5/19/2008 7:44 AM Yahoo! Groups Links -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.10/1421 - Release Date: 5/7/2008 5:23 PM Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Control Receiver without Separate Antenna
Hey Ron,How about setting your Font back to at least 10 for all the senior citizens who like to read your stuff :-)) 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ron Wright To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:34 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Control Receiver without Separate Antenna I would recommend not using a 12.5 kHz spacing freq in this case of a control receiever, a receiver that is only 12.5 kHz away from your regular repeater input. With typical good FM analog receivers these would both have overlapping passbands and an input signal on the repeater input would interfer with the control input. With som many using IC type DTMF decoders any interference, just over lapping distorted voice would hender the decoder decoding. A typical UHF duplexer would have a notch wide enough for a freq +/-25 kHz away. Know this is going to be another repeaters input, but with some research could find is close in distance to you. I have used control UHF freq that are 6.25 kHz spacing, but these were in the 446 range and on separate antenna. Just had access to this. I used this freq to give some added security. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 10:24 PM, Laryn Lohman wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com, John Transue [EMAIL PROTECTED] . wrote: Laryn K8TVZ, So, if I understand, I should put a splitter after the pre-amp, and the control frequency should be a split channel. Does this mean that I use half way between two channels? Right, one of the 12.5 kc. in-between channels would be less likely to have something on them. Another question, who makes a good splitter, and how can I know I am getting a good splitter? Well, I've seen 50 ohm splitters quite often at hamfests. I don't have a good brand name to point you to. I am, however, using a 75 ohm TV splitter. Purists will hate this, but especially, if you are after a preamp, I don't see this as a big deal. It works just fine here with no measured loss in repeater receiver sensitivity through the system. Use quality coax and fittings. I've found that RG142 works reasonably well with the TV splitters since it has a solid center conductor. If you are not using a preamp, then you really need to do things right, using a proper splitter, and still you may lose some sensitivity. Some of you are saying, where's the quality in that splitter scheme? Well, experimentally I've found it works well here, so after initial measurements showed me that things were still the same, I'll tend to stay with what works, but ready to ditch the whole thing if needed and go another route. Sometimes quality takes the form of performance, not looks or perfection. If system sensitivity had suffered it wouldn't be there for more than 15 minutes. Laryn K8TVZ
