Re: SD Dodge Caravan
Came out in '89, ended with '90. They seem to have made ALOT of them in '89.. On 8/8/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: have a question, which year did the Dodge Caravan come out with the Turbo..thanks ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD 87 GLHS For Sale
I'm selling my '87 GLHS #895. Recently got it on the road with an engine I bought from someone on the SDML, guy claimed the engine was a 55k mile true T2 motor. It wasn't. Anyways, the car is still running and driveable, but I wouldn't want to drive it more than maybe down to Oregon. Passenger front wheel bearing is shot, and growls. Has an A555 with Stefan's awesome rod linkage shift adapter, and heim joints on those rods. The A555 leaks oil profusely. The engine leaks oil profusely. The power steering leaks profusely. The front crumple zones have been crumpled and pulled straight by some backyard shop, really shoddy work and were never properly repainted. They have surface rust, I don't believe it's anything worse than that. The frame/floor is in EXCELLENT condition, not a trace of rust. All major GLHS parts are included, the Koni struts are all still functional, they ride fine as far as I'm concerned. Still have the intercooler/rad, but are not installed due to the rad needing to be re-cored. Still have the Shelby valve cover. The original 2 piece intake is included and installed. Front seats are a bit worn out but I'll toss in a set that are REALLY nice that I was planning to save for car show use only. Has a nasty crease/dent down the passenger door. Most of the dent is contained in the door, only superficially got the surrounding body panels. Still have the centurian rims, they desperately need new rubber. AC works and blows fairly cold. Car was missing driver's side front bumper extension, I have a replacement now, but it's blue so it needs to be repainted. As does the rest of the front end, the paint on the nose is just flaking like mad, was repainted by an idiot at some point. Fenders could use repainting too as they have some similar problems. Hood has a dent or two, probably easily repaired. I'll toss in a spare sunroof glass that I have. Car was converted to '87 electronics, with an underhood map sensor. I do automotive electrical for a living, it was converted properly, and I followed Shelby's lead on the upgrade, the map wiring looks just like the way they did the AIS wiring at his factory. Exhaust system is fairly stock except the cat has been removed. I recently went all through the cluster, all of the gauges work now, though the oil pressure gauge seems to read poorly at best. I put a Walbro 255 in the tank. The car has a new 4wire o2 sensor and gets good gas mileage. Transmission shifts great, despite it's leaky nature. I changed the rod bearings in the engine recently, which eliminated a light rod knock that was growing. I don't imagine that this is a permanent repair, so expect to find a new engine or rebuild this one when you get the car. I upgraded to a 24mm master cylinder and minivan front calipers, the car stops well. It does not have equal length axles. I don't have a stereo for it, but I did install high quality aftermarket speakers in the front doors. I also put power doorlock actuators while I was in there. I have not wired them into anything yet, I was planning on installing an alarm sometime soon. The carpet is stained dark brown almost black on the driver's side.. I think a power steering rack popped at one point in the car's life and dumped dirty fluid all over the carpet on that side staining the carpet. but that's just a guess. I just want this car to go to a good home, aside from the body damage up front, it's a rust free car that should be treated well. It's just taking too much of my time and money, and not as much fun as I wanted, after having swapped in a supposedly good engine, and finding it to be junk, I'm really not having any fun.. Oh yeah.. $1200 firm, partial, maybe even full trades considered... -- Brian J. Schulteis Port Orchard, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 (Finally on the road) '88 Horizon GLH-T (Converted to SBEC now) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD questions, rick D
Aside from some possible odd idle issues, no you don't need to change the computer. Oh, and you may have trouble engaging the cruise control.. On 7/28/06, Shawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When converting from an automatic to manual, do I need to swap out either computer? The engine will still be the same. but we're putting in an A555. does anyone have Rick Diogo's current email address? The two I have don't work any more. Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Port Orchard, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 (Finally on the road) '88 Horizon GLH-T (Converted to SBEC now) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD questions, rick D
We have a fully hydraulic auto trans, the computer has no idea or control over when it shifts. On 7/28/06, FreddyP [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I seem to remember that the auto computer cuts the power a bit just before the shift point of the automatic trans. This may not work well with the five speed I may be wrong though. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Transmission parts needed
How hard is that to remove? I could pick it up at the local junkyard some time.. On 7/23/06, Rick Diogo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Looking for a ring and pinion out of an A-523 transmission with a 3.50 to 1 final drive. I need the main shaft and ring gear. It **must be an A523** and it **must be a 3.50 to 1**. Please let me know what you have and what you need to get for it. I am open to trades or just purchase outright. Thanks! Rick D. [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Port Orchard, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 (Finally on the road) '88 Horizon GLH-T (Converted to SBEC now) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Turbo Dodge deal of the year
I'll give ya a good reference. This guy was more than nice to buy from. I didn't buy anything as big as a car, just a computer, but he went above and beyond to make sure I got what I had hoped for. Good seller. On 7/11/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I anyone wants a fantastic deal on two NICE cars and a load of really good parts, here it is. I have the Lutz 1989 Daytona Shelby and a very clean 1992 Spirit ES. Jerry Caviani, Good Guy list member Barry Goodall knows me well and I am sure you could contact him for a reference. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD No Oil Pressure after filter change!
I think it's a cracked oil pickup tube.. Drop the oil pan and have a look, the oil pan gasket on common blocks like yours is a re-useable rubber one. You can just bolt the pan right back up when you're done with no problems. Anyways, the pickup tube probably has a crack near the top, so it just sucks air unless the oil is up high enough to cover the crack. There's also a chance the o-ring where the pickup tube meets the pump is missing.. That'd cause the same deal.. I believe TU sells new pickup tubes.. :) On 6/30/06, Rick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just changed the oil and filter for the 1st time in my recently aquired '91 Daytona Shelby 2.5 T-1 and to my surprise drained 6 1/2 - 7 qts. out! I filled it with 5 qts. and put on a new Mopar filter and now I can't get any oil pressure on my mechanical gauge with the engine running. I took off the filter to try another one and found not 1 drop of oil in it! I took off the anti-drainback valve and it's working properly.What gives? Finally I added another 2 qts. of oil to make a total of 7 and now I have oil pressure. Could someone have removed the balance shafts or have a 2.2 pickup with the 2.5 pan? Could the oil pump be going bad? The engine has 70 lbs. of pressure @ idle when cold and it drops to 20 lbs. when at operating temp. and goes up to 40 lbs. when I rev it up so that seems normal. If the balance shafts were removed is there any way that I could tell without pulling the pan? The pan is slightly smashed in near the drain plug so could this be causing the problem? Also, I'm trying to sort out the vacuum line mess and noticed a hose coming off of a nipple on the turbo oil drain pipe and it runs to the breather in the airbox. Is this factory? If I come to find the balance shafts were removed and the oil gallery hole is drilled,tapped plugged, then can I fix the problem of too much oil in the engine by simply putting on a pickup and pan from a common block 2.2 T-II engine? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, RICK ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 14lb. brake up
From my findings looking at the factory (and MP) cals with D-Cal, overboost cutout is usually 13.6 or 14.2psi.. You need to go to a 3 bar calibration with a 3bar map sensor (and bigger injectors) if you want to run more boost than that. The highest you can realistically set overboost cutout would be 14.6, any higher and the computer can't tell the difference.. 14.7 is the same as 50psi to a 2bar map sensor.. On 6/29/06, Ray [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just got the car back together- 87 GLHS garrett 57 trim with fmic., when the car hits around 14ibs. it cuts-out (brakes up really bad). I'm still running the stock map, could that be the problem?I don't have an air-fuel gauge ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Re: fuel injectors
FFV cars go +20 injectors.. On 6/25/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 89 and later 2.2/2.5 turbos will all have the same injectors. There were no larger ones used from the factory that I know of, unless 2.0/2.4 injectors fit and are larger. But you can buy plus 20's or plus 40's. 87-88 injectors are 2 pph smaller. What year and engine sizes have the same size fuel injectors as my 89 daytona shelby TII ? And are there larger injectors that I can put on my car also like from a 2.5 turbo car? I did upgrade my turbo to a 60 trim. Thanks Larry ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD '87 GLHS dash plaque on Ebay
Anyone missing a dash plaque? Ebay item # 8069457820 -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD OBX LSD for sale
I have a new unused OBX LSD for sale. It's the quaife knockoff. $400 shipped, paypal only. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD MP Head Gasket
P4452005, some dealers even keep it in stock at all times. :) On 4/27/06, Ed Dreistadt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone have the P/N for the Mopar Performance head gasket for my '85 LeBaron 2.2L turbo motor? I've been trying to find a place to order it online with no luck, so I guess it's off to the dealer parts department. Thanks. -Ed '85 LeBaron Konvertible 2.2L Turbo II About to get a 5-speed and new rings ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD caravan upgrade questions
On 4/18/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: i have an 89 turbo van, i'm looking for some upgrades and wondering what parts will work from other cars. i want rear disc brakes what can i get them from and what all do i have to change? Nope, can't do it without serious re-engineering. is there a manual steering rack available for my van? Nope. i have the automatic trans and want to install a half shaft setup with two equil sized axles, where do i find this setup? Simply find any '87+ turbo car, grab it's intermediate shaft, and then two driver's side van axles will make it work for ya. is the t1 roller cam a worth while upgrade over a stock tbi nonroller? ANY roller cam is a helluvan upgrade over a slider. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD FS: Rare computer and 2.5 bar MAP
Hey guys.. I just want to say that I over-reacted here. He has the original chip for this computer and is shipping it to me. Therefor I'm getting exactly what was advertised. It was a simple mistake, and he has been very nice to work with to help solve this problem. He's a great guy to buy from, he shipped that thing FAST, and replies to emails quickly too. It's nice to find TD'ers that aren't out ripping people off, like my last few deals have been. Thanks. On 4/10/06, Brian Schulteis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I notice you say THE ORIGINAL calibration was done by Roush Racing... Why didn't you mention that this wasn't original anymore?? I got this computer today, popped the chip from it into my computer and it says Rob Maxon 2001...?!?!?! I just spent $150 on a freakin Maxon cal? I could have just downloaded one of those, or a much better more modern cal, and bought a 3bar map sensor and saved myself $75+.. You said in the note you mailed with the cal This computer has served me well for a long time.. Makes it pretty clear you knew it had been modified, as 2001 isn't that long ago.. I'm just really frustrated, I haven't had a single TD sale go through without getting the short end of the stick in months now. On 4/6/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am the owner of the Lutz Daytona know as the Daytona Peach. Many of you have seen the Automobile Magazine article on it from 1989. The original computer calibration was done by Roush Racing and a limited run of 2.5 Bar MAPs were run for Chrysler as prototypes. I am selling the original SMEC and MAP that came on the car. This will run any TII car with STOCK injectors. It runs around 16 PSI and runs very well. The car has a manual trans, so I don't know how well it would work on automatic, but it might. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD FS: Rare computer and 2.5 bar MAP
I notice you say THE ORIGINAL calibration was done by Roush Racing... Why didn't you mention that this wasn't original anymore?? I got this computer today, popped the chip from it into my computer and it says Rob Maxon 2001...?!?!?! I just spent $150 on a freakin Maxon cal? I could have just downloaded one of those, or a much better more modern cal, and bought a 3bar map sensor and saved myself $75+.. You said in the note you mailed with the cal This computer has served me well for a long time.. Makes it pretty clear you knew it had been modified, as 2001 isn't that long ago.. I'm just really frustrated, I haven't had a single TD sale go through without getting the short end of the stick in months now. On 4/6/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am the owner of the Lutz Daytona know as the Daytona Peach. Many of you have seen the Automobile Magazine article on it from 1989. The original computer calibration was done by Roush Racing and a limited run of 2.5 Bar MAPs were run for Chrysler as prototypes. I am selling the original SMEC and MAP that came on the car. This will run any TII car with STOCK injectors. It runs around 16 PSI and runs very well. The car has a manual trans, so I don't know how well it would work on automatic, but it might. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Engine Torques Breaking CV boot band
I had that problem once. It was a snapped bolt that went through the passenger side motor mount. On 4/9/06, Ron Zimmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hey my engine moves causing the CV boot band to strike the frame on the passenger side CV. Motor mounts must need adjusting but how? I am thinking of replacing the back little shock absorber mount with rigid steel rod. Any thoughts? Ron 87 Shelby Z Keller, Texas ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD t2 turbo needed bad stock or upgrade
I'd look for an '84-'87 T1 turbo.. Easier to find, and plenty easy to convert to T2, especially since you already have the T2 cold side.. On 4/8/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: i'm looking for a turbo to get me by or a used upgrade. i wasn't planning on upgrading this soon, but my turbo seized on the way getting my car home. i'm not looking to upgrade with new right now, so i need either a used stock or upgrade turbo to get me by for a while. without the turbo my top speed going uphill was 50mph otherwise i could get up to 75-80 the rest of the trip. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Goin Goin Goin almost gone
Your goin to the wrong yards. Ya gotta find the cheap yards. It's still exceptionally rare to find even a Neon or Stratus at my favorite yard.. They seem to stick to the 15-20 year mark.. On 4/2/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Made a couple of trips to at least 8 auto yards this past month and to see an 80,s dodge of any model is rare even a Le Baron coupe. Rich ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Re: Knock sensor
The scan tools I've seen (OTC 4000e) tend to just have a Knock Detected for each cylinder. And it's a yes or no type thing.. If you have that feature, try that.. On 3/25/06, Paul T. Standaert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Both of my turbo cars show zero volts coming from the sensor according to the scannner. Never is there any voltage from it. I'm assuming that they are not working but a new sensor is pretty expensive for me to just try to see if it starts reading. For the sensor data to indicate detonation, it has to emit more than a certain amount of voltage within x number degrees of a power stroke or the engine computer will ignore it. At least that is how it works in newer cars. In theory, you could hammer on it between power strokes and it will not change how the engine runs at all. Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Cast or forged?
The 2.5 crank was always cast. The 2.2 crank was cast in N/A motors, and forged in TII, TIII, and TIV common block engines. On 3/4/06, Al Curtis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Question for the collective:Was the 1989 and common block crankshaft cast or forged in either the 2.2 or 2.5 engines? - Brings words and photos together (easily) with PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 2.5 oil fill question..
You should add more oil now, 6 or 7 quarts. Keep in mind that the oil will slosh big time in that big pan with nothing holding it from doing that anymore. You might check out TurbosUnleashed.com, as they have a really nice oil pan with trap doors and such to keep the oil down near the pickup and in the pan where it belongs. Good price for what you get, too. ;) On 1/30/06, Darrell - [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have removed the balance shafts from both my 2.5 turbo motors and was wondering the correct fill line now. I have been just putting the 5 quarts in but that looks pretty low on the stick. I would like to put a new mark on the dipstick to use as a referance but would like to know how much oil to put in to mark the true fill line. Thank you! _ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee. Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Cruise Control on 87?
All of the turbo cars have a VSS. Is your '87 Charger turbo? If not, it's pretty easy to add the VSS anyways. Try to find an '88-'90 turbo or TBI car. On the passenger side output of the transmssion there will be a little black module held in by 1 10mm bolt. Unbolt that and pull it up and out of the transmission. Grab the 2 pin plug that plugs into it as well, along with as much wire as you can manage to get off the end of that connector. Depending on the car, there may be either a cap on this black module, or a speedometer cable screwed into it. If there is a cable screwed into it, you'll obviously need to unscrew that. Now take this module to your car, and remove the same dummy gear that's in your transmission. When you get them out, check the color of the drive gears, if they're not the same, you'll want to swap them so that your speedo reads correctly. Screw your speedo cable into this module, and install it in your transmission. Plug the 2 pin connector into it and run one of the 2 wires to ground. The other wire is your VSS signal. 8k pulses per mile, square wave. :) Enjoy! On 12/14/05, Techpriest [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Still looking for a car. Have found an 87 Charger that has everything I wanted except cruise control. My right foot gets me into to much trouble so I am in the habit of using CC at all times on the highways. I found some aftermarket CC kits that don't look to hard to install, but they all mention hooking to the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and I did not think an 87 Charger would have one. It also includes magnets for the drive shaft, but I know the car does not have one of those so I would have to rig something up with the half-shafts. Anyone ever hook up CC to that car or one like it? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD How-To: Socket a SMEC/SBEC
Actually, my next article will go over the process of burning an eprom. What equipment is needed, where to get it, etc etc. :) On 10/25/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Brian, That looks painless enough. I haven't used a solder sucker for about 35 years, but also remember, forgetting to squeeze the bulb first. LOL. So what is involved with getting a chip and calibrating it yourself? Are they cheap? Can you do it on the fly? I'm assuming no. I know a guy that was doing something similar to a computer and he was going to be able to hook a laptop and change things as he wished. I may try socketing. I have lots of tooth brushes! Bob Doherty Coon Rapids, MN. 90 Daytona Shelby TI 89 Daytona Shelby TII 89 LeBaron GTC Convert TII 86 Shelby Charger TI 85 GLH T 68 AMC AMX #5816 (Only Numbered Car) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD How-To: Socket a SMEC/SBEC
I socketted a SMEC this weekend and took extensive pictures of the process. I then documented the process involved in transforming a stock SMEC into a socketted one. Anyone who wants to do their own custom cals needs to have a socketted computer first. So with that said, here's my article: http://td-una.tripod.com -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD SEFI T-I
What is SEFI? You mean Sequential Multipoint FI? Any SBEC based TD is sequential. That'd be 1990 and later. TIII and TIV are 2.2L engines. TurbosUnleashed does recals for SBEC cars. No, Sequential only improves emissions at idle. At speed, the valves aren't even open long as the injectors are. Your might as well be batch fire at that point. Batch fire isn't as bad as it might seem. The fuel isn't sitting around for more than a few milliseconds, and it's not going to condense in that extremely hot head. On 10/24/05, John R [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all I am wanting to know if there was ever a T-I 2.2L SEFI, not 2.5L, and are there any recalibrated computers for the SEFI T-I 2.2L if it existed? Is SEFI worth the trouble to install into an '82 Rampage when I have several '88 T-I batch fire wiring harnesses computers for 2.2L Thanks for any advice John ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD spirit r/t parts
There's a guy on the PNW-SDAC mailing list (Spokane, WA area I think) selling a pair of Spirit RT's for $800, they're missing the parts Chris here is selling. Anyone dreaming of a Spirit RT could build one for $2800.. Thought I'd try and help both sellers out.. :) On 10/20/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: i have a complete r/t drivetrain sitting on the k frame with the struts brakes and steering. it also has the radiator with fan condenser and intercooler. it has the engine harness and computer as well. motor is untested it has a bent crank pully,at least one bad rocker, no vally cover, no fuel rail or injectors and no timming covers. otherwise its complete with 134k engine turns over and is not seized. also have side moldings and the interior as well before i break this all apart and sell it on ebay i'm open to a trade for it all, or offers on parts. i'm not sure if i'll sell this as a whole or in parts. i parted two of these in the past and got over 2000 for the drivetrain both times parting them. i'm open to trades for cars or whatever, but it will most likely be hitting ebay in parts ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (2.5L Intercooled Turbo) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (16v hybrid upgrade started) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD RE: WTB: Centurion 2 wheels
CSX's got Centurion's? I thought only the GLHS's got them. On 10/3/05, Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello People, It's been a long time posting on here! I am looking to buy a set of Centurion 2 wheels for an 87 CSX that are in great condition. Not bent or warped at all. I live in the Dallas, Tx area. If anyone has some please contact me with pics at chris at turbofreak dot com. Thanks for any help. Chris Robertson Http://www.Turbofreak.com or our local Speed forum Http://www.DFWhorsepower.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD FWD-P and the weather
Good luck. Looks like a nasty storm. On 9/21/05, Cindy Lindsay [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just a quick note. We expect some severe weather from the Hurricane and there will be no shipping available on Friday. If you need anything shipped between now and Tuesday, I highly recommend ordering on line tonight or first thing tomorrow so we can get it out Thursday. We will most likely be closed on Friday, and will hope to reopen Monday or Tuesday barring any major damage in the area or to the shop. Thanks, Cindy ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD BOV question
I run a BOV off a Porsche 911.. I LOVE it.. Very fast reacting, VERY loud, and has held boost up over 20psi.. Plan on getting another for my Horizon soon.. On 8/28/05, Richard Paul [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am deciding what type of BOV to put on my T3 Caravan. Has anybody run one of the Bosch ones (Porsche Audi I think) ? I am considering one of those or a Turbo XS one. Richard Paul ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 1989 Acclaim turbo
How does the lockup work? '89 turbo electronics can't control a lockup torque converter. Turbo cars didn't get lockup till '91.. Do you have a toggle switch on the dash or something to engage lockup? On 8/27/05, Victor Lehtinen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Located in Connecticut. 2.5 turbo with auto trans. For parts or repair. Good donor car or fix up for winter driver. CT title. Registered. Insured. Common block with turbo. Lockup three speed transmission. $400 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD need bulk head for 89 turbo mini van
Do you need the bulkhead pinout for the '84 rampage too? http://pnw-sdac.org/gallery/view_photo.php?full=1set_albumName=Bulkhead_Connectorsid=89_minivan_bulkhead That should pull up a nice large copy of the pinout for ya.. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) On 8/25/05, smartel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hello all i am working on an 84 page and i need pin outs for bulk head connector on an 89 turbo mini van hope some one can help me out working on turbo RAMPAGE ok thanks guys ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD turbo1
It's called torque steer. All FWD cars tend to suffer from it at least a little. Even a T1 auto should have equal length half shafts to help reduce torque steer. My '88 Daytona Pacifica had them. An '88 Lebaron I parted out a couple weeks ago had them. Both were automatic T1 cars. If you have trouble with torque steer, start by making sure your engine is centered, then move on to making sure the ball joints and tie rod ends are in good condition. If they are, an alignment should cure things for ya. If they aren't, replace, then alignment. It's amazing what a good alignment will do for torque steer (and traction sometimes too). -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) On 8/13/05, forfree [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sorry i .The guy at the garage says turbo 1 shelbys with auto pull to the right when you gun it. Is that true? Thanks ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Injector O-rings
I just bought 4 boxes of them. 2 o-rings per box. Made by Borg-Warner. Unfortunately I don't have the box handy to give you the part number off of them. On 8/12/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I need the o-rings for my fuel injectors. The Dodge dealer says that they can't be bought separately from the injector. I called an after-market parts store and they had no listing for a separate o-ring. Is there an o-ring that fits another application that I can use for my injectors? Phil ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 1984 rampage bulk head connector
Except that an '84 N/A Rampage isn't going to have the monster hole on the passenger side for the Logic Module wiring.. So why add it? I'd swap in a SMEC wiring harness, then you don't have to cut a gaping hole into the firewall for that harness. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '88 Plymouth Horizon (TURBO!) On 8/10/05, Ed Nickl [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The closest everything to turbo a rampage would be 1985 Shelby Charger with 86/87 being almost the same thing (Different distributor and Logic Module). If you are going Turbo 2, the 86/87 GLHS harness would be the best. hello i have an 84 rampage and have turbo 2 motor and auto trans installed in truck when i bought the motor from lancer shelby i also got the wiring harness and all parts which has bulk head connector and hooks under the dash with a few switches is there a better wire harness i could get to be closer to my rampage truck a while ago i was poking around the net and a guy had made a 50 pin connector to dodge omni but i cant find the sight again ... any one have any good IDEAS i have just got fuel pump and all to get this truck going any pictures or scmatics would be great just have to know what i need for the transfer to turbo ok thanks guys hope you can help ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Looking for oil filter Part#
Yeah, and you can get the Spin-Flow ones from Napa that Wix doesn't seem to sell without the Napa logo.. 91515 is the big Ford 5.0 on that I use on my cars.. :) Good price too, like $3.99.. On 8/9/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: NAPA filters are made by Wix as well. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Looking for oil filter Part#
haha, GOOD. That'll keep people from running Fram junk on their #'d cars.. :) On 8/7/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 8/7/2005 11:23:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Does anyone have the part # for the 87 GLHS pancake oil filters. The regular turbo ones won't fit. Thanks PH3512 Id recommend cross refferencing it with the brand WIX sence it has rumored that fram has discontinued it.. Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA. - 1984 T2 Rampage Ramlet _www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo) - _www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Clutch cable difference?
Sometimes you have to re-clock the arm on the transmission. Especially common on late model 523/568 swaps into early cars.. Also make sure they pulled the clutch pedal back towards the seat, LIGHTLY.. Usually just put your toe under the pedal and give it a gently lift upwards, it'll self-adjust... :) On 8/5/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hey Gang, i seem to have made some new friends last night, A couple guys here in Ann Arbor are building up an 86 Turbo Z and I stopped in just to take a look at what they are doing, anyway long story short, they're using an 86 clutch cable in a built, and I mean BUILT 2.2 T2 with an A568. Tonight they got it on the ground, ready to drive and the clutch won't disengage. I was just wondering if, since there are differences in the rest of how its set up (shifter etc) would the clutch cable be different too? any insights? Matt Colwell 86 T-Top Turbo~Z 86 Turbo~Z Project: Daytona 87 Shadow ES 02 S~10 4x4 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD new bearings-still knock
Or to troubleshoot the REAL problem.. Is this an auto or a stick? My flywheel came loose on me a couple months ago. I had 3 other VERY knowledgeable TD guys standing around the engine bay. We all called it bad bearings. Got it home and found it was just a loose flywheel. On an auto, it can be a loose/broken flexplate or torque converter. And sometimes something as common as a waterpump can sound like rod knock. Don't kill your patient yet, you may still be able to cure him. ;) On 8/4/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all I had to try new bearings, oh well, it still knocks. Now its time to get a new engine. Roy 86 GLHS #200 87 Shelby Lancer #781 5sp cloth KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK 81 Fiat Spider LE #501 81 Fiat X1/9 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Air Conditioning
TD's don't have orifice tubes. They have expansion blocks. And yeah, I bet his is stuck or clogged. But yeah, he does need to put gauges on both sides. On 8/3/05, Eric . [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: checking ONLY the low side is pointless. ALWAYS check with the high side too. Chances are you orifice tube is shot and full of crap, or worse, your condensor. There's a few great AC forums out there...google! On 8/3/05, Craig Grass [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello All, I have an air conditioning question: I converted over to R-134A in my 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T. It seems to work great at idle. However, whether I'm moving or not, when the revs come up over 2000 RPM, the A/C doesn't work very well at all. Actually, if I'm cruising in 5th gear with low RPM (1500 or less) the A/C works well at that point too. It only acts up when the revs increase. I initially checked the system pressure and the gauge indicated that the pressure was in the good range while the A/C was running at maximum at idle. However, when the revs come up, the AC clutch engages for less than 2 seconds on a somewhat infrequent basis and the pressure drops to low on the gauge. I thought I might have too little refrigerant in the system so I added more R-134A so the pressure would be higher when the revs come up, but the load was much on the compressor that I backed the pressure back down. Any thoughts? Please respond to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Craig ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD new air conditioning
Google EnviroSafe.. You can get the stuff on Ebay for $5 a can. It's awesome stuff. Goes right into a system that had R12 previously. Doesn't react with water so you can get away with charging it at home when you don't have a vacuum pump. If you find the website, you'll see all the other cool benefits it has over R134a, I don't need to sound like an ad.. ;) I love the stuff. On 6/22/05, Big Boy Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: i am looking to put air in my -T, do they make r-134 kits for these or do we have to use our old parts (condesors, hoses, condesors and such) and retrofit r134 into them. like something out of a neon. i prefer to use 134 because of cost. any info would be great J. CSX-T #901 (gettin more speed) 89' 2.5 T1, T2 intake, volvo I/C, talon bov, 3 side exit exhaust, A-523, gus valve - Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Thanks, and 86 GLHT paint completed in flat black epoxy
Looks good.. I wonder if that would shine right up with a coat of clear? heh.. As for decals, yeah, go with the red decals, that'd look awesome. :) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) On 6/20/05, Clay Cooke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think it turned out pretty good. Ive painted a few cars in the past, so I have a fairly good handle of whats going on, and a good paint gun. :) I managed to cover the entire car and hood with 1 quart of paint (2 quarts mixed paint). Its still not cheap, but much better than rattle can and it will last. One thing I cant decide is whether I want to put the OEM style red decals/stripes on the car, or put everything back in black, so the entire car, decals, and everything is black. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD GLH Wheel turned into a.......
Very nice. I like how you can see the hose through the holes in the rim. :) On 6/18/05, Johnny Spiva [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I made something from a turbo GLH wheel. See it here... http://www.polybushings.com/pages/hosehanger.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD New Shelby Dodge Registry
I agree completely. I saw a post he made today claiming the information was all his. Not that he's gotten around to posting my info yet, because he's so bloody far behind on it, but the fact that he considers the data I GAVE him to be HIS is crap. If you need a good name for your registry, get the same name, ShelbyDodgeRegistry, but register it under the new .info name, which is a more fitting name for it anyways. www.ShelbyDodgeRegistry.info -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) On 5/23/05, Alex Melnikov [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I say it's a great effort and more power to you. SDAC and Shelby Registry falling into the hands of a-hole A.K.A. Bill Yolman was the worst thing that every happened to Shelby Dodges. Any info and data that was shared him he now considers his own and imposes his own rules on it. Screw him. Just need to register a better name for the site, that's all. Alex... 87 CSX #562 2002 WRX Sportwagon 1992 GMC Typhoon ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD New Shelby Dodge Registry
If there's no connection, why do you support a guy that has run the list so poorly? Is it simply because he was running the list first? What'd that previous post say, 4 years without his car being added to the list? That's unacceptable, it's too bad he had to wait till everyone was ready to lynch him and start a new list before he got off his arse and started updating his site. If it's even true that he's started to update the site, as actions speak louder than words. Maybe you can explain the reasoning behind keeping Bill in charge of the almost defunct list. I'm all ears. On 5/23/05, Barry Goodall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I appreciate the emotion you have for your opinion Alex, but there is at least one fact below that you have wrong. There is no connection between the management of SDAC and the Shelby Registry. In the past, SDAC has supported this mailing list and the Shelby Registry monetarily and probably will do so again in the future. Beyond that there is no connection between SDAC and the entities Bill Yohman oversees. Oh wait, yeah there is too, Bill is a member of SDAC. Barry Goodall President, Shelby Dodge Auto Club I say it's a great effort and more power to you. SDAC and Shelby Registry falling into the hands of a-hole A.K.A. Bill Yolman was the worst thing that every happened to Shelby Dodges. Any info and data that was shared him he now considers his own and imposes his own rules on it. Screw him. Just need to register a better name for the site, that's all. Alex... ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Wheel hop...
Just for the record, I have a 2.5 without balance shafts and poly mounts and nothing buzzes from the engine. The current generation of poly mounts Johnny is selling (as in the ones he's been making since starting polybushings.com) are made of some really soft urethane, they're quite livable. Also, look into poly control arm bushings, alot of the wheel hop is from the control arm wiggling forward and backward, get some good bushings in there and it won't/can't do that anymore. :) But those DO increase road noise, but not much if you have quiet tires. :) Anyways.. I've heard of shimming one side of the sway bar to prevent wheel hop. Can't remember which side they usually do that to, I've never tried it. On 5/20/05, Paul T. Standaert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm sure this has been discussed many many times in the past, but what are some ways to reduce or eliminate wheel hop in a late model G-body car? From my readings, everyone was a fan of the stiffer poly engine/transmision mounts. Well, I'm looking for an alternative to that only because I'm looking to keep as much refinement as possible. A balance-shaftless 2.5l with poly mounts is gonna make some pretty good noise. I'm thinking more along the line of bobble-strut sized shock absorbers to use fluid to absorb the hopping. Has anyone tried dual bobble struts? What about a bobble strut on the front of the engine? - Yahoo! Mail Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Re AC questions
Mopar didn't chose 134a. The EPA shoved it down everyone's throat. Yeah, 134a will get down to 34degrees, eventually. R12 will do it a helluvalot sooner and hold it there under hotter conditions. It's flat out a more efficient refrigerant. On 5/11/05, Richard Paul [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: After all, Mopar chose R134 for all the cars 93 and newer, not duracool. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD A/C questions
The cans aren't $8 each this year. Personally, if you want to save a buck, I'd get one of the hydrocarbon blends like Duracool, Enviro-Safe or Freeze 12.. They cool far better than 134a, put less load on the engine, and are dirt cheap. I picked up 3 cans of Enviro-Safe recently on ebay at $5 a can, it takes 1/3 as much of the blend as R12. So a 3lb R12 system takes 1lb of blend. I run it in my cars and it's absolutely amazing. But then, like others have said, it's not legal to use in your car. But either are most of the MP computers.. On 5/10/05, Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: To be honest, if the system has been opened or empty, I would just get an R134a retro fit kit. It would be better to vaccuum out the system first and replace the dryer and oriphus, but I have filled R12 systems with R134 before that were empty and they have worked fine. I can buy R12, as I am certified (from a job I had years ago) but I would much rather pay $8 a can for R134 then I would $40-60 a can for R12. But thats just me... :) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A while back, there was a lot of discussion about A/C here, and different retrofits for the r12, duracool, 114, etc... My question is about getting R12. Someone had mad it sound easy to get the papers to buy the R12? And then where do you get the freon? I have a hose, guage, and one can. I would like to be able to get more. If the system has been opened, or is empty, besides the freon, what else do you need? What kind of oil, etc? I would rather pay a little more and use the original stuff. Joey Dalton Hillbilly Racing 86 Turbo Z C/S T Tops DC intercooled 87 Shelby Z parts car =( T Tops, Fred Flinstone floors, broken rad support and cracked front subframe. 88 Shelby Z Pacifica/lebaron interior, 3.85 FD a523 with HR short throw shifter, TAFT S2 cam, 20 PSI, Hillbilly exahust 88 Chrysler Shelby Z T tops 89 Daytona C/S compitition COMING SOON: 66 Dodge Charger! 76 Dodge D 100 318/auto 51 Studebaker Champion 4 doorfuture father/son project, will be 355 EFI HEMI ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 87 Shelby Z Too much fuel!!
Check the vacuum line coming off your fuel pressure regulator. First make sure it's hooked up and not cracked or anything. If that's ok, then pull that line off and start the engine, see if fuel comes squirting out the fuel pressure regulator, which would indicate that the vacuum diaphram popped inside the FPR. If that's all good, check the MAP sensor, make sure it's getting a good vacuum feed. Run your codes, you should not need to hack your computer to get it to run right. Something has to be broken. :) On 5/4/05, Ron ZImmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Got the Z running really good. But have so much unburnt fuel at an idol? What can I do to get the computer to lean this machine out?? Is there a pin on the wiring harness that I can apply a voltage or a resistance to get it to reduce the output to the injectors?? Only at an idol! Full throttle no Problem!! Ron 87 Shelby Z 93 Lightning #1353 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Poor Charger.
The paint job is cool, but I think it could be better. Flat black.. Yes, a flat black shelby skunk stripe up and over that car, and then flat black shelby decals on the sides along with the part that's usually silver along the bottom in flat black. I think that would make that an absolutely gorgeous and very unique Shelby Charger. :) That shade of gold is far better than what Ma Mopar put on the Aries in the early 80's.. ;) On 5/1/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Someone decided to un-beautify this Shelby Charger. =( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=6199item=45 45920628rd=1 Joey Dalton Hillbilly Racing 86 Turbo Z C/S T Tops DC intercooled 87 Shelby Z parts car =( T Tops, Fred Flinstone floors, broken rad support and cracked front subframe. 88 Shelby Z Pacifica/lebaron interior, 3.85 FD a523 with HR short throw shifter, TAFT S2 cam, 20 PSI, Hillbilly exahust 88 Chrysler Shelby Z T tops 89 Daytona C/S compitition COMING SOON: 66 Dodge Charger! 76 Dodge D 100 318/auto 51 Studebaker Champion 4 doorfuture father/son project, will be 355 EFI HEMI ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 1990 T1 Voyager No Spark (Update)
Make sure the previous owner didn't pick up a TBI distributor at the junkyard. The lack of a sync window in one of the vanes will cause the computer to refuse to start and drive you nuts. But with code 11, the ASD could be missing, unplugged, or the ASD driver in the SBEC could be toast. I've seen that driver go out before. On 5/1/05, Thomas Moss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I checked out the Voyager yesterday and the body and interior are in good shape. There are 170,000 miles on the Van, but it appears to have been taken care of for at least most of its life. The van was supposedly running until the Alternator went out, but when I asked them how long it has been sitting, they said about 8 months. Okay, except that the registration expired in August of 2000...H! I also noticed that the Oil, Tranny fluid and Antifreeze all appeared to have been changed recently...Hmmm Again! Also, all of the new parts he put on looked older than the rest of the van. The alternator is used but clean, and he said that it was a rebuilt one. All of the other parts he said were new. I think he went to the U-Pull-It for new parts to try to get it running. I suspect that he got it at an auction, couldn't get it running, and is now trying to pass it off to someone else. At least the price is right! I worked on it for 2 hours yesterday trying to get it to fire with no luck. There is no spark coming from the coil. I unhooked the coil wire from the distributor and held the end near the block and cranked it over with no spark at all. I even ran a wire directly from the battery to the + terminal of the coil with no luck. The ASD relay seems to be working, since I can hear the injectors come on when the key is on. I did notice, however that when the key is turned to crank, it briefly gets +12V at the + terminal of the coil, then quickly dies down. Doesn't the coil need a constant +12V in order to fire? Resistance across the coil terminals is 1.8 ohms, so I would expect it to be good. Is there any way to check for a spark from the coil itself without the coil wire on? There could be an open in the coil wire, and I would like to eliminate this possibility. The computer appears to be good (by which I mean that I can retrieve codes). The codes are 12, then 11, then 55. The 12 and 55 I expected, but I can't recall what an 11 is. I'm also not sure why I got 11 after 12. I checked it 3 times with the same results. I was also unable to locate the ASD relay, since I can't find my Haynes manual and it has been a few years since I last worked on a Turbo Dodge. I was going to follow the green/black wire from the coil + terminal to the relay, but the + terminal has what looks like a faded light green (maybe used to be yellow?) wire on it. The - terminal has a black/green wire, but the wire terminals have a flat spot that coincides with a flat spot on the coil terminals so they can only be installed on one terminal anyway. Of the 4 relays on the driver's side fender, none of them have a red/white wire going into them. Does anybody have any further ideas on narrowing this down any further? At this point, my prime suspect is the coil, but I want to check if there is supposed to be a steady +12V at the + terminal when cranking and if the coil wires sound like they are hooked up correctly (is there a better way to check this without unwrapping all of the wire bundles and following the wire?). Are there any other things that I can check? Thanks, Tom __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD '89 turbo ECU
Yes, manual and auto cars have much different AIS control. There were no 2.5 T1's in '88, that's why '88 T1 computers are different than '89 T1 computers. The programming in '89 T1's is also far more advanced than all the other SMEC's.. Even if you don't have the ability to modify your own computer, you may consider downloading D-Cal and the images of the SMEC roms and comparing them. It's very informative.. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/d-cal :) On 4/30/05, Thomas Moss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: OOPS! My mistake...There is a difference between computers for Manual and Automatic transmission cars as well, correct? Tom Thomas Moss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Are all 88 89 computers the same, regardless of car (assuming 2.5 T1), and are all 90 computers the same regardless of car, also assuming (2.5 T1)? I am looking at a 1990 Plymouth Voyager T1 today with no spark, so I need to know what I can use to replace it if necessary from the U-pull-it. They have a 1990 Daytona 2.5 T1 computer listed, but no 1990 Voyager 2.5 T1 computer. From your response, it sounds like 88 and 89 computers are interchangeable (assuming same engine displacement) and 90 91 may be interchangeable as well (also assuming same displacement). Is this correct? Tom Brian Schulteis wrote: '88 and '89 computers are electrically the same. They are SMEC's. '90 Computers are different, they are SBEC's. I believe 90/91 are interchangeable, but not sure, never gotten a good reply on that one. '89 Turbo 1 would be a 2.5L computer. I'm guessing that Shadow wasn't TII.. :) On 4/29/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I found an 89-90 Shadow Turbo Convertible at the junk yard. Are all the 89-90 ECUs the same? The reason I ask is, I plan to convert my minivan to 89-90 Turbo 5 speed. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD '89 turbo ECU
'88 and '89 computers are electrically the same. They are SMEC's. '90 Computers are different, they are SBEC's. I believe 90/91 are interchangeable, but not sure, never gotten a good reply on that one. '89 Turbo 1 would be a 2.5L computer. I'm guessing that Shadow wasn't TII.. :) On 4/29/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I found an 89-90 Shadow Turbo Convertible at the junk yard. Are all the 89-90 ECUs the same? The reason I ask is, I plan to convert my minivan to 89-90 Turbo 5 speed. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Headlight module for LeBarons
If it's anything like the module on my '88 Daytona, I just had to re-flow all the solder joints to get it to work like a champ again. Tho I did note that the headlights were pretty dim and finally installed relays under the hood to give them full battery voltage. But reflowing those joints got the lights to go up and down. :) On 4/18/05, Ean Orsel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Was it someone on here that rebuilds the headlight modules that control the doors on a LeBaron? The box that mounts in the top of the dash. I'm looking for some help with a schematic on the wiring to that box. (FSM doesn't specify each wire) Ean www.thebluebaron.net '87 Chrysler LeBaron coupe (The Blue Baron) '89 Chrysler LeBaron coupe (Christine) '02 Chrysler Neon LX (Lex) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Last Call!! '87 GLHS # 0567 AS IS $600.00
Yeah, no doubt. The value on these numbered cars is only going to go up. Don't end up like all the people that gave away their Roadrunners and Hemi Cuda's. Buy while they're cheap. Sit on it for 10 years and let it grow in value. :) Don't let him crush it. I just paid more than double this for an '87 GLHS, and I think I still got a steal of a deal. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '87 Shelby GLHS #895 '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) '90 Plymouth Horizon (soon to be little sister's car) On Apr 9, 2005 9:14 PM, Eric . [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: SOMEONE BUY THIS IT IS A COMPLETE NUMBERED CAR!! ARRRGGG! On Apr 9, 2005 3:52 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, As per a request I am offering the '87 GLHS #0567 AS IS for $600.00. It will be offered till Monday afternoon. I also have a ton of extra parts that would go with it as well. Then we will start stripping it to sell in pieces. The shell will go to the crusher!! It is located in Orem, Utah. That is 35 miles south of Salt Lake City on I15. I will do what I can to help in transportation ( not much ). You will need a tow dolly or a flatbed trailer. etc. I will send pics to anyone interested. It was driveable till my son melted the third piston. It will be a shame to have to crush it. Later, ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Spirit R/T horror story, parting out
I have the perfect recipe for TIII vehicles. Goes like this.. Pull the head/manifolds/cams, sell them all seperately on Ebay. That should net you near $3,000. Cracked head or not, it'll sell high. Take that $3k and buy yourself a Neon DOHC head, pay to have the machine shop plug the appropriate passages in it and the block. Get a mexican exhaust manifold and a nice hybrid turbo. Have a custom intake made up for it or buy a DSM venom intake manifold and use that. There ya go, one reliable DOHC 16v engine, probably flows better than the head that was on there when your all said and done. Won't crack. And that $3k will probably pay for the whole conversion. On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 14:50:15 -0500, Mike Buczkowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a 91 R/T that needs to go so I can finish my CSX-T. In the past I was sickened by all the TD's being parted out, however after a 3 year restoration that's almost done, I just needs rear shocks and very minor body work. I've realalized the T-III cars are only good for parts cars. 2.5 miles on rebuilt engine and the balance shaves, that I told the guy to take out, were not timed and blew apart the chain witch ended up in one of the rod bearings snapping the rod in two. $1000 later and a TD guy to fix it this time, and we were good for 2000 miles when the head cracked. I've spent $12,000 total on this car and to me it's scrap metal now. It did run the 1/4 mile at 118 mph, at 13.5 sec. and a 3.2 sec. 60 foot time, thanks to the 100,000 mi. shocks. It smoked the drag radials 1/2 way down the track. The body has almost no rust with 108,000 mi., it does have a dent in the rear corner of the car witch spider webbed the rear wing a little, but no big deal. The front doors are a little banged up with the usual rust, the only on the car really. Paint is very nice and original. The body is as it was when i bought it in 2000. It does have new front calipers new brakes all around some new suspension pieces and I'm sure i'm forgetting some of it. I'm selling everything but the short block, that is now in the CSX-T with a neon head, and the tranny, witch is in a friends turbo minivan. I also have some performance parts for it to go as well. For starters a stage 4 computer form Cindy that is very impressive, I'd like $150 obo for that. If anyone needs anything Email me personally. I'll be taking an inventory this weekend and I'll make a better list of parts then. The car and myself are in Toledo, OH. Thanks for all the help I received from this group to get the car as far as I did. Mike ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD WHAT I NEED TO MAKE TURBO II CAR
Well, there's a fast and dirty wrong way to do it. And then there's the right way. Fast and wrong is cheap, so as long as you don't mind blowing things up, it can be fun too. Take your non turbo engine and drill the back of the block for an oil return. Install the turbo manifolds and a turbo onto it. Mate a turbo downpipe to your existing exhaust system. Swap the engine harness with a turbo one. Viola, instant turbo engine. Problem is the TBI has way too much static compression for the stock electronics to deal with. Best to run race fuel at all time with that setup. And the N/A automatic tranny only has 3 clutches, not 4 like the turbo's, few other reinforcement differences. It'll go bye bye soon. Right way: Pull the good engine and tranny: Sell them. Invest that money towards a good turbo engine/tranny. This would be a good time to convert to 5 speed if you have any desire to do that. Otherwise turbo automatics are pretty easy to find. Find a complete turbo engine (junkyards are good sources) and drop that in. Change the engine harness as I mentioned before, and you'll be rockin. On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 16:02:00 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I HAVE A 91 SUNDANCE WITH AN AUTOMATIC AND 60K 2.5 NON TURBO ENGINE. I GUESS I WANT TO KNOW IF I CAN KEEP IT AN AUTOMATIC AND SWITCH TO A STOCK TURBO 2 ENGINE FOR THE TIME BEING. ALSO WHAT WOULD I NEED AND WHO'S SELLING THEM CHEAP. I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO PUT A TURBO III IN IT BUT AFTER PARTING OUT MY TWO R/T'S I KNOW WHAT THOSE PARTS GO FOR. ALSO LOOKING FOR BODY PARTS FROM A RED SHADOW GRILL, TURBO HOOD, AND REAR HATCH W/ SPOILER AND FOR THE INTERIOR A SHELBY PLATE FOR THE DASH THE BOOST GAUGE AND IDIOT LIGHTS, IF ANYONE CAN HOOK ME UP I'M IN THE DETROIT AREA EMAIL ME BACK [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD (no subject)
Stick with 10w-30 oil, that's what Ma Mopar recommended. Mobil 1 is good, a bigger oil filter helps keep the oil pressure up.. Don't run a Fram filter. :) On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 18:48:10 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: does anybody have a recommendation for an oil filter and oil for a mostly stock 86 Shelby Charger? I'm using mobil1 15w50 and mobil1 filter right now, thanks for any suggestions. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD conversion
You've got an aweful mess of different parts there. The '86 computer won't plug into an '88 van. The '86 harness will have to be adapted, which will be fairly difficult, but not impossible. The '89/90 turbo van's didn't use the '86 intake, so you'd have to upgrade to an '88+ intake and convert your turbo to work with that intake first. Then you could put the '89 harness in your van, and run an '88 turbo computer with your engine. Was your van a manual tranny? You'll want to stick with the transmission the van originally had if it was manual, as it's stronger than the '86 tranny. Good luck. On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 21:24:46 -0500, Reinaldo V. Aguieiras [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beside others FWDV8 MOPARS,I own a 1988 Dodge Mini Ram(mini cargo van)which had originally a 2.5L naturally aspirated(NON TURBO)engine.Last week 1 rod came loose and made ahuge hole in the short block destroying the engine.I bought a complete drivetrain(complete engine with cylinder head,short block,exaust intake manifold turbo unit mounted throtle body,EVERYTHING including the computer unit and the transmission)from a 1986 Daytona Z turbo I.Now i have this drivetrain(2.2 turbo I from 1986 Daytona) installed in my 1988 mini ram (which WAS 2.5L Non Turbo, EFI)The computer unit from the Daytona was installed on the van also.My question is:Can i use and will the van work fine with its original wiring harness(originally 2.5L NONTURBO engine) connected to the daytona computer unit engine(2.2 TURBO I)I was told the daytona wiring harness will not fit the van.Should i buy the motor wiring harness from a factory turbocharged 1989/1990 Dodge Caravan?It will work???We all know th! at! Dodge ne ocharged mini ram/caravan back in 1988,right? I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO! Any idea/info will be greatly appreciated... Thanks Ray Aguieiras. Bridgeport,CT ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Head Decking and Rod Bushings for Forged
I believe the .927 is a Chevy wrist pin, from a small block.. Should be abundantly available. And yes, you have to have the rod end resized to accept it.. On Thu, 3 Mar 2005 21:54:35 -0600, Corey Werbicki [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all: Got 2 questions for everyone. First, a local buddy is doing up the head for my 2.2 and he asked me about head decking. Anyone know what would be a good number to cut off for more compression. Motor is a forged 2.2 with .20 over Venolias, stock rods, 2.2 NA crank, mild head porting with mostly exhaust side work, etc. Hybrid turbo with a lot of boost. I assume anythign takin off will be better for more horsepower but i have no idea about this one. Second. The venolias take that larger .927 wrist pin, what does everyone do with the rods. Just resize them or get a new bushing from??? Thanks for all the help everyone Corey ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '83 Shelby Charger (Megasquirt MPFI) '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD WTB - T2 Throttle Cable
I simply went to the parts store and asked for a throttle cable for an '89 Dodge Shadow with a turbo 2.5 engine. Worked like a champ for me. :) On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 17:18:52 -0600, Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hey guys, I am needing a throttle cable to do my T1 to T2 conversion on my 85 Shelby Charger. Does anyone know what cable I need and does anyone have one to sell me? Thanks. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 89 CS springs won't work.
The spring broke? Sounds like someone had heated them up with a torch to lower them. That would explain the sitting too low and bad ride characteristics. On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 20:40:02 -0500, scotty 4g [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a set of 89 CS Daytona springs on the struts of my 92 Spirit ES (V6). The car sits too low in front, and rides a little on the rough side, especially over sharp edged bumps like speed bumps and expansion joints. Yesterday, the driver's side spring broke, so now I am in need of some ES V6 Spirit/Acclaim springs. LMK what you have. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SDWhich Throttle cable to use?
Ahh, just going by what she told me. Actually, now that I think about it, I did have that same problem on my '83 SC when I converted it, I just moved the cable bracket out so it was only held on with one bolt, then rigged up a little bracket to keep it still.. heh.. On Mon, 7 Feb 2005 17:43:26 -, Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Brian, that was a Daytona cable on Anna's car. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Schulteis Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 8:48 PM To: Mike Fisher Cc: sdml Subject: Re: SDWhich Throttle cable to use? I used a Daytona cable on my '83 SC. Worked fine. I had a friend that used a GLHS cable on her car and the cable (not the sheething) was WAY too long. Luckily I tracked down a throttle bracket from a 2piece TB, and it spaced the cable farther (the proper distance) from the throttle. :) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 22:35:28 -0600, Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok, one more T1 to T2 conversion question. What throttle cable should I use on my 85 SC when doing my conversion? Do I need a GLHS cable, or will a Daytona or similar cable work? Thanks! -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Code 13, why???
Strange problem here... My Daytona is popping up an error 13. Map sensor problem. Seems to be BARO related, as I put a meter on the baro solenoid, and it never dips. Seems like the problem happens right when the computer would be checking the baro. Start it up, run for a minute, maybe less, and then the computer triggers the error and the light comes on. I know I should get a code 37 not a 13 with a baro problem, but the map sensor is reading just fine. I can backprobe the pins on the SMEC connector. The map sensor voltage is exactly what it should be. And the baro voltage never drops like it should when the computer checks, not even when first turning on the key. Suggestions? Or just tell me like it is.. It's a smoked transistor on the SMEC and that SMEC is dead unless I can miraculously figure out which one it is. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SDWhich Throttle cable to use?
I used a Daytona cable on my '83 SC. Worked fine. I had a friend that used a GLHS cable on her car and the cable (not the sheething) was WAY too long. Luckily I tracked down a throttle bracket from a 2piece TB, and it spaced the cable farther (the proper distance) from the throttle. :) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 22:35:28 -0600, Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok, one more T1 to T2 conversion question. What throttle cable should I use on my 85 SC when doing my conversion? Do I need a GLHS cable, or will a Daytona or similar cable work? Thanks! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SDAnother boring question
FWD Performance sells a Cometic headgasket, it's reusable and is supposed to be just awesome for sealing. Kind of pricey tho. Next step down is a Mopar Performance headgasket from the dealer. Very nice, and only about $20 locally. On Fri, 04 Feb 2005 10:59:57 -0600, Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was thinking today that I will need to get another head gasket for my T2 conversion. What is the best one to use now? I usually use Fel-Pro gaskets, but I have heard that they arent the great for the 2.2 Turbo application when running higher boost pressures. I have seen a cooper gasket that TU sells, but is it worth the money? Let me know what you guys think or use... Thanks! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD T2 Conversion Question
Except that's $90 more than just having a buddy weld the EGR hole shut, and that On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 18:13:57 -0800 (PST), [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: theres a refurbished 2.5 swingvalve on _www.turbosunleashed.com_ (http://www.turbosunleashed.com) for like 95 bucks.. direct bolt up and slight upgrade.. Most of the T2 cars had these 89 and later.. :) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD T2 Conversion Question
Sorry, I hit enter too soon, I also meant to mention the hassle of trying not to snap every single bolt on the swingvalve. Which is one of the biggest reasons why I didn't upgrade. I also just had a hard time believing that an extra quarter inch in the SV was worth $90. Might as well move up to 3, and if your going to do 3, you should just get a bigger turbo.. heh, kinda snowballs.. On Fri, 4 Feb 2005 00:27:30 -, Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, yeah but since when has been going faster not cost money? A 2.5 swing valve is a performance upgrade, just like a 3 swing valve is a performance upgrade. Stefan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Schulteis Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 4:00 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: shelby-dodge@sdml.org Subject: Re: SD T2 Conversion Question Except that's $90 more than just having a buddy weld the EGR hole shut, and that On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 18:13:57 -0800 (PST), [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: theres a refurbished 2.5 swingvalve on _www.turbosunleashed.com_ (http://www.turbosunleashed.com) for like 95 bucks.. direct bolt up and slight upgrade.. Most of the T2 cars had these 89 and later.. :) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD T2 Conversion Question
I had a friend mig weld the hole on the swingvalve shut. :) On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 16:24:57 -0600, Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok, I hope this is a simple one. When I am doing my conversion, what do I do with the EGR? I have heard there are EGR's on the T2 cars, but I havent seen anything on adding it or if it even needs it. Thanks guys. Mike ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Re:
Put a volt meter on the center pin of the map sensor. With the engine off, ignition on, the voltage should read close to 2.3v. If you have a hand vacuum pump (any mechanic should have one), pump it down to about 15 of vacuum. It should go down to 1.1-1.3v. :) Just did this yesterday, as I had a 3bar calibration and a 2bar map sensor somehow.. Oops.. Good luck. On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 16:22:11 -0600, Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: K peeps, code 13 is flashing. Mechanic says he has a direct manifold hose running to the MAP sensor. Car is bucking, throwing check engine (that's how I knew to check the code). How can we test the map sensor? Or is it hooked up right? I'm not able to be there, he doesn't have internet, and I'm trying to help him. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD California SDAC meet
You didn't mention the drag race on the 9th (I think it was the 9th) and the dinner on the 10th? There may have been changes to those plans, but I think those are both still on. On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 01:15:59 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've been seeing alot of mention about the turbosunleashed dyno tour in so. cal and it sounds like there will be quite a few people from all around the west coast.. Some from as far as Oregon, Washington, Kansas, Arizona and even LOUISIANA!! Seem like this is building up some momentum for a killer turnout! I got to thinkin about it late yesterday that this mite be a great example to see how many die hard west coasters show up for this event in California.. Mite even look good depending on the turnout to presuade an actuall SDAC 15-16..17 somewhere on this side of the country? Just wanted to throw that out to ya.. here are the specifics of the dyno tour schedule.. Friday February 11th TU Dyno Day 1 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM -TU at Dyno Works Paul Vellikey from TU will be Dyno Tuning customer vehicles throughout the day. DYNO WORKS 346 S I ST # 8 SAN BERNARDINO, CA (909) 884-4084 Map and Directions here- _http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.ad...ate=cazipcode=_ (http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?searchtype=addresscountry=USaddtohistory=searchtab=homeaddress=346+S+I+ST+#+8city=San+Bernardinostate=cazipc ode=) Vendor Tech Session/Dinner 7:00 PM to ? John from Poly Bushings.com, Paul and I will be displaying some of our products and will also be on hand to answer any questions you may have. *Location To Be Announced* Saturday Febraury 12th Car Show Crystal Cove/Breakfast 7:00 AM to 8:00 AM For those Early Birds here's an opportunity to show off your vehicles to the locals. Word has it that Jay Leno and Dan Gurney regularly attend this meet. Read more about it here: _http://automodica.typepad.com/autom...al_cove_co.html_ (http://automodica.typepad.com/automodica/2005/01/crystal_cove_co.html) Map and Directions here: _http://automodica.typepad.com/./pho...al_cove_map.gif_ (http://automodica.typepad.com/./photos/uncategorized/crystal_cove_map.gif) Cruise to Dyno Works 8:00 AM to 9:00 AM Time to line up and caravan to the Dyno. TU Dyno Day 2 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM -TU at Dyno Works Paul Vellikey from TU will be Dyno Tuning customer vehicles throughout the day. DYNO WORKS 346 S I ST # 8 SAN BERNARDINO, CA (909) 884-4084 Map and Directions here- _http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.ad...ate=cazipcode=_ (http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?searchtype=addresscountry=USaddtohistory=searchtab=homeaddress=346+S+I+ST+#+8city=San+Bernardinostate=cazipc ode=) Top Dog Dyno Awards and Barbaque 7:00-? One of our Dyno Participants will be hosting a Barbaque at his home. Directions will be provided as the date approaches Here's the latest registered participants. If you have paid and do not see your name below please contact me directly at [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) Official thred on turbododge.com _http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71917page=1pp=30_ (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71917page=1pp=30) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD PolyBushings.com - Great TD vendor!
Hope ya'll don't mind my long winded report. :) So I spent the day at Johhny Spiva's place (owner/founder of Polybushings.com). I bought some poly control arm bushings and a poly transmission mount from him. Since he just developed the bushings for the control arm, he needed to test fit them and get pictures for a how-to on his website. So I got the luxury of him doing all the work and installing them for me. Very cool. He put them in my '88 Daytona. My Daytona has an '89 dual hinged k-member. These bushings were meant for the '89 '90 dual hinged k-member with the stamped control arms. Very nice bushings, even come with new bolts and special lube that guarantees they'll never squeak at all. These bushings allow the control arm to move up and down alot more freely than the factory ones do, along with being firmer to prevent the wheel from moving forward or backward without the rest of the car. I need to get the alignment done before I can be totally sure how much they helped, but they seem to be a slight but noticeable improvement. Can definitely feel the road better now. But road noise doesn't seem to have increased. As for the transmission mount, it's the insert that goes inside the metal bracket that bolts to the transmission. I still had a chunk of factory rubber in there, was still in good condition but wanted to upgrade to urethane anyways, and today was a good time for that. Went in nice and easy. The urethane that mount was made of was significantly softer than I had expected, nothing like the rock hard urethane shift bushings I have. As for the increased vibration Nope, doesn't seem to be any worse. And I'm running a 2.5L without balance shafts, so I think I'd notice it if it were worse. The car does seem to accellerate smoother in a straight line, like I have less axle binding. Can't be sure if it's the tranny mount, or the control arm bushings. Could be both. Don't think it's my imagination. Spent the whole day there, had a couple guys from my local SDAC chapter swing by and see what all was going on. Johnny even made Carroll Shelby Chili for us. I didn't even know there was such a thing! Aparently you can buy it at the grocery store, it's in a little brown bag, you may have even seen it before, I had, just didn't catch the name at the top of the bag. Pretty cool, very good chili! -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Dyno Day in SoCal and IT'S ALIVE!!!
www.turbosunleashed.com, click on Shop and the dyno event is one of the big icons on there, and also under their re-calibrated ECM page. You gunna be at the Pheonix AZ or the California one? I'll be at the California one with my Daytona. Just finished putting a new head on it. :) On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 18:19:53 -0600, Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I guess I missed the info for registering a car for dyno day next month. My engine is RUNNING TODAY I heard it over the phone just now! It needs to be timed and the tank drained and filled with new gas, but otherwise she's up and running. Needs a new windshield too, and the guy will be out on Tuesday to do that. Then the following week it goes in to get a fresh coat of red paint. YHAW! Sent Pete (Pure Energi) from this list a money order for the replacement centercap, too. FINALLY, all coming together! Anyways I need contact info or whatever and prices etc so I can reserve a date for this event. I want to see what all that portwork does with 14psi evil grin ANYONE WHO REPLIES, DO ME A FAVOR: This is a work email, so can you carbon copy your replies to [EMAIL PROTECTED] ??? THANK YOU LOTS. Can't wait to see some of you there. P.S. JOHNNY SPIVA! YOUR MOUNTS RULE! -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Southern California SDAC
What's the URL for their website/joining their mailing list. I figure since I'll be there for the next meeting, it'd be nice to jump on their list and say hi. :) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Wanted: Good turbo 2.5L short or longblock on west coast
Hey guys.. Anyone on the west coast got a known good turbo 2.5L engine, don't need a head, or really anything above the block, or any of the accessories. I'm looking for a decent engine to put into my Lebaron. I have a good head. Since I'll be driving down to Southern California next month, I can pick up the block on my way down or (more likely) my way back. I don't need a rebuildable one, and I don't need a built up one. I just need one with good rings that doesn't knock or smoke for my summer daily driver. Got one hiding in your shed or garage? Email me with your location and price. Thanks! -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Engine Diagnosis
Higher octane! Not lower.. Run premium. And it sounds like you have a failing fuel pump or maybe just a clogged filter. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge. Check fuel pressure with the vacuum line unhooked from the fuel pressure regulator. Remember that fuel pressure and hook the vacuum line back up. Go for a drive and monitor the fuel pressure gauge. It should go up 1psi above that number you got earlier for each PSI of boost you see. Usually it's real obvious (found this problem in one of my cars before), you go under boost and the fuel pressure starts to plummet. That's an obvious sign of a bad fuel pump. On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 08:01:42 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I need an expert opinion from all you mopar mechanics, especially the guy who lives off Rt.#5 in Enfield CT( bought some trim pieces from you, and I forgot your name.) Turbo engine in '87 Daytona Pacifica, remanufactured 12,000 miles ago. Making an ignition pinging sound once the engine is hot. In order for it to clatter and ping there needs to be a moderate load on the engine. We've checked the spark plugs, played w/ the timing and still ping won't dissipate. Suggestions included a lower octane fuel, could this help or hurt? Also, my mechanic has noticed some blue smoke coming from exaust and believes that the turbo could be leaking cold oil into the engine and causing this problem?Has anyone ever heard or seen this issue before and what's your take? What kind of expense would be related to turbo problem? I will be selling this car and would love to be able to tell the buyer what's probably needed. I know you all have heard me mention this car before, except for this recent problem car is great, thousands invested, many new parts, anyone wants this car, I'll take 500.00 cash. Keith ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Southern California meeting
And I'll be driving down from the Seattle area. :) Probably won't be there for the meeting on the 10th. Didn't realize there was a meeting that early in the week or I'd have scheduled my vacation to start a bit sooner to make it to that. But there is a chance I'll be there. Where is the meeting and what time is it at? I'm leaving Seattle early on the 9th, so if it's in the evening on the 10th, I'll probably make it. :) I'll be up on the dyno Saturday getting my Daytona tuned to run 23psi. Should be a blast. :) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 15:24:06 +, Johnny Spiva [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am flying down and going to the Feb 10th meeting of the Southern California Shelby Club and the TU's Dyno Day. I look forward to seeing many of you, well, all of you. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Turbo Caravan 2.5 Balance Shaft
In my car, I simply cut the chain and left the balance shafts in the pan. No worries about plugging the oil feed hole. :) On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 08:26:06 -0500, Ed Nickl [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That has to be the simplest method I've seen. How tight is the bolt shaft? And what is the threaded hole for that you put the 'retainer' bolt and washer in? Does the pan clear it well? - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 7:03 AM Subject: Re: SD Turbo Caravan 2.5 Balance Shaft Chris, OK, here you go. Removing them is just as easy as pulling the oil pan then just cut the old chain from the balance shaft assembly and follow these directions for plugging the oil feed hole http://www.hometown.aol.com/mopartek/balanceplug.html Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock appearing '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 12/15/2004 1:45:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: i tried searching through the archives but the search function is down, so i'm sorry if this topic has been covered. i have an 89 turbo dodge caravan and would like to remove the balance shaft. i have searched on the internet for any info but not much is available. my haynes guide says it will be an in-depth task but im not sure. i want to know if any of you have removed the shaft without removing the engine. i think i can get it out with just removing the oilpan but wanted some other input. any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks again, chris ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD problems and questions
What's the point of a forged piston then? They wear out way faster, you say they can't take abuse.. What's the point??? On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 18:09:52 -0600, Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You can frag a forged piston real quick if you are boosting out of tune enough. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD problems and questions
I'd run a vacuum line straight from the manifold to the wastegate can until you figure out the problem with boost control. 25psi on a 2bar map is BAD. Did you put forged pistons in there? The way your boost is rocketing even under low throttle, it sounds like you've blown a line off somewhere in the wastegate control circuit.. hooking the can straight to the manifold will also allow you to see if you simply have a dud wastegate can... On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 15:13:54 -0800, Marc Medina [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Also, I've found that I'm pegging the 20 PSI boost gauge. Even with less than an inch of pedal travel, the boost shoots up well past the 15 psi the computer is supposed to allow. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Idle Oil Pressure Question
You might try swapping in some 0w-20 oil. Maybe the pressure will come down to a sane level. Running the really small oil filter these engines normally came usually helps limit oil pressure too. ;) Whatever you end up doing, keep us posted, I'm curious which trick will do the job. On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 19:56:40 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good Evening, The car is my '90 Daytona Shelby. The turbo went on me, as I mentioned, and I am trying to make sure that there are no external causes. I picked up an oil pressure tester at NAPA. At idle I get 53psi of pressure. If I rev the engine to something that sounds like about 4K to me, I get 70psi which drops back down to 53psi when I go back to idle again. I did this repeatably a few times with both a reasonably cool (but not cold) engine and reasonably warm (but not real hot) engine. Same numbers. The 53psi seems kinda high to me since the FSM seems happy with numbers like 10psi at idle. Is it possible that my Melling oil pump is giving me too much oil pressure causing problems? Or, at least, are these numbers way out of whack with what others get? later... Jarvis -|--- ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Daytona Engine Trouble
You put in a used turbo, and your surprised it didn't like 100k miles? Ya know, I have a turbo here with almost no shaft play in it. But I'm very sure if it were put on a new engine, it'd be dead well before even 10k miles passed, as it was run on an engine that lost a rod. I'm sure it got a good healthy dose of metal shavings before that engine went down hard. What I'm saying is you rarely know the history of a used turbo, maybe it had a hard life before you installed it. As for the compression, if your plugs are all black, you probably have deposits in the combustion chamber which are raising the compression. Run some water injection for a few miles under boost, it'll clean the cylinders right out. And I agree with the other reply, everything I've heard about high flow pumps on these engines is bad. A standard TII pump is all they need. On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 22:49:42 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm looking for some expert advice, sage wisdom, or even half baked ideas. :-) I have a '90 Daytona Shelby, 2.2L VNT that now has 175K miles on it. The head and intake were rebuilt at about 120K, more for performance than necessity. The block has never been touched, and the bores have always looked great. I replaced the turbo less than a year ago with a new/rebuilt T2 type (I had the bolts holding the downpipe to the exhaust housing of the VNT sheer on me, the turbo was not smoking). Well, I am pouring ALOT of oil through the turbo lately. The shaft didn't feel all that tight when I put the turbo in, but it certainly has much more play now than it did. I do not have a dial gauge (I suppose I should get one), so I don't know exactly how much, but it feels like about the width of the shaft! As luck would have it, I scrapped an intercooler hose that goes to a parallel intercooler in the nose on a high curb and have a tiny rip in it (this is radiator type hose), so I can actually drive the car without smoking (unless I stand on it), but I leave puddles of oil wherever I go. Obviously, I have to pull the turbo and get it rebuilt or replaced. But, I want to answer a couple other questions. 1. What, if anything, could be going out on my engine that would cause the turbo to fail in a year (easily less than 20K miles). 2. What should I look at on my engine to determine if the block end needs a rebuild? As history on the block: - When I put the turbo in this year, I changed the oil pump to a Melling high volume unit, mostly for grins. - I had good oil flow out the bottom of the new turbo when I idled the car before attaching the return line (wow, what a mess on my garage floor :-) - I have had good oil pressure readings at the dash gauge. - I have the flexible lines to the turbo, not the stock metal ones. - I have some wet areas around the oil filler cap on the valve cover which I think it more than can be attributed to from spillage. - I have religiously changed oil with Mobile1 5W30 and new M1-204 filter every 3000 miles. - The PVC valve rattles like it should when I shake it. - The far driver's side (#1?) spark plug has alot of oil crud on it. - The rest of the spark plugs have some blackening. - The compression tests show a little high on the cyls. (150-160 across the board over 2 tests). - I have had the boost graingered at 10psi since I put the turbo on and hadn't yet started cranking it up. I'm sure there's more pertinent information I am missing. I am skeptical that the turbo just went out on it's own with 20K miles of 10psi driving. This doesn't make much sense to me at this point and I want to correct any external cause of the failure while the turbo is off. Thoughts? Thanks! later... Jarvis -|--- ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD K frame Qs
That's not what he said. He said the The k-frame WITH a-arms will bolt right on. He said nothing like the a-arms will bolt right onto your existing k-frame. He's saying the C body K-frame will line up with the bolts and bolt holes on the recepient vehicle. On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 20:31:51 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 11/9/2004 8:09:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: johnny sent this to me about the C body K frame. i would assume since he is our resident suspension expert that this part will work. The k-frame with a-arms will bolt right on. If Johnny means that the C body arms, will bolt onto the G/J/P body Kframe, I will GUARANTEE that is not the case. I spent over an hour hammering them into place, they WILL NOT FIT. The REAR part of the hinge is a DIFFERENT diameter (with NO aftermarket bushing), AND, the angle is slightly different as well, and the distance from the front pivot hole to the rear is different between the two. I have about 40 pictures and about 10 witnesses who can back this up (including people like Mike Contraption Marra, Brian Slowe, and many other DV-SDAC members). Trust me, unless you want to waste MANY hours worth of time like I did, here's the rules: C body (Dynasty, New Yorker) arms (the ones with the smaller hole near the balljoint, as mentioned in my last post) ONLY work with C body Krame. G/J/P (and Spirit) arms (the ones with the larger hole near the balljoint, as mentioned in my last post) only work with these K-frames. The two arms ARE different, if you lay a C body cast arm over a G(etc) body cast arm, you will SEE they are different. TRUST me :-) -Dave Lucidi ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Re: [RT_Mailing_List] auto or 568
The 523 does not have the coarse cut gears that the 555 has, nor does it have the 4 pinion differential that the 555 has. The one thing the 523 has over the 555 is a stronger 3rd gear, which can easily be fixed in the 555 with a chrome moly bearing retainer plate. But yes, the 523 does come with more final drive options. I have personally seen them with 3.5, 3.77, and 3.85 final drive. If you were going for top speed, the 3.5 would do that nicely. I've never really looked at a 555 in person, so I don't know what final drives it comes with. On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 10:04:41 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What you may actually want for a high speed run is an A523. I've also heard the 523 is as strong as an A555. My IROC R/T runs 80 mph at 3,000 rpm. My '90 ES 2.5 NA / 523 ran 90 mph at 3,000 rpm. My '90 ES 2.5 Turbo 1 / 523 ran 90 at 3,000 mph. My other IROC R/T ran 80 at 3,000 rpm. Two T3's showing basically 80 at 3K, and two 523s showing basically 90 mph at 3K makes me think it's not speedo or tach error. Does anybody have any info on the final drive ratios of these trannies? I believe there were a couple different ratios available in the 523? Thanks, Jeff ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 20% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (dead as a doornail) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD A/C clutch hub bearing replacement
I'd just pick up a different compressor at the junkyard for $15.. But that'd assume that I used up the 5 spare AC compressors I have in my shed. :) On Fri, 5 Nov 2004 18:20:44 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hi all my A/C clutch hub bearing was making an awful noise upon startup and cold operation. also it would make this noise when the RPMs got up there. i knew the bearing was on its way out, so i removed the A/C belt until i could look at it. well i priced out a new A/C clutch assy from mopar for $122 my jobber price, one from the auto parts store was $102 the auto parts store also said there was a replaceable bearing listed for $27. this got my always thrifty mind to thinking. i purchased an A/C clutch hub puller for 1985 to 1993 year model chrysler A/C clutches made by four seasons part number #59509 for about $14.95 and pulled the hub assy off the compressor, removed the snap ring and pulled off the clutch hub pulley. the bearing number in the pulley is NSK # 40BD49AWDU5 i called my local bearing supply house with this number and a possible cross to a different equivalent number. they came up with two numbers and prices. NACHI # 40BGS12G-2DS $6.65 BCA # 5000KFF $22.00 the bearing presses out the back of the pulley(side that faces the compressor) but the steel of the pulley is peened over the bearings outer race on this side to hold the bearing in place. it almost looks like the bearing and the pulley are all one piece, but they are not. you will have to take a flat blade screwdriver, and hammer, and carefully bend this metal back straight to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing. after you press in the new bearing just tap the metal back over to peen it back against the new bearings outer race. i also used red loctite on the bearing outer race when i pressed it in just to insure it stays put. i took the hub and pully assemblies to a friends house and used his machine lathe to true up the mating surfaces where they come together when the A/C clutch magnet is energized. i reassembled it all and shimmed up the clutch hub to get the proper clutch hub spacing when disengaged. check your FSM for proper clutch hub shimming. i bought the cheaper bearing for $6.65. the total cost was $23.33 with tax which included buying the hub puller tool which you will need anyways to get it apart even if you go with a new clutch. i guess we will see how long the cheaper bearing holds up LOL. this is a good quick cheap fix if your A/C still blows cold since you will not lose the A/C refrigerent charge by pulling the clutch to repair it. you can get at it relatively easy without unbolting the compressor from its mount. hope this helps mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 20% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (dead as a doornail) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Can I use G head in Place of swirl head?
Yes, your off-boost power will be a bit sluggish, as the G head requires a hotter spark curve. But it more detonation resistant, and will lower your compression, so with the proper computer you could run more boost. :) In fact, TurbosUnleashed couple whip you up a cal with a spark curve for that head, calibrated for a 3 bar map sensor so you could run 18psi to make up for the lower compression. ;) On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 08:41:23 -0400, RIFF-RAFF [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On a long trip out in the middle of nowhere I blew a rad hose without realizing it and overheated my motor.The botom end seems to have survived but the cylinder head is severely distorted (ya gotta see it...its hideous!).The car is an '87 T-II Shelby Z with stock electronics and the motor is a stock common block T-II out of an '89 Daytona Shelby, G-valved to 14 psi. My question is:Can I use a G casting head out of an '85 Shelby Charger in place of the swirl head with no ill effects?I ask this because I have a newly rebuilt G casting just sitting and I need this car back up and running ASAP.Also,can I use the roller cam,followers and lifters out of the swirl head in the G head or should I stick to the slider? Any quick replies would be greatly appreciated.Thanks. Frank ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 20% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (dead as a doornail) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Exhaust tone...
Heh, SRT-4's don't have a muffler. :) On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 21:43:50 -0400, Ed Nickl [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'd assume it's in the muffler, because the cat and turbo will smooth out most of the exhaust noise.. - Original Message - From: Paul T. Standaert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: SDML [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 9:42 PM Subject: SD Exhaust tone... Guys, I really really like how the SRT-4's sound. I know the two engines are very dissimilar, but does anyone know how I can get my new 2.5 turbo to sound like them? I'm sure its got a lot to do with the DOHC cams in the SRT's Otherwise bore/stroke I think is similar. Ideas? - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 20% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (dead as a doornail) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Twin engine shadow
You should email some pictures of this car to Monster Garage. They have a page with pictures of viewer's monsters. This one definately qualifies. If you ever get bored with that car, I bet it would fetch a small fortune on Ebay. I know I'd bid on it. Crazy fabrication or not, the hard part is done. :) On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 23:49:47 -0500, they wrote: LOL! Thanks for the compliments. Glad you got a good laugh out of it. :-D Front motor was from a 50$ shadow that one of our members got. Rear motor was out of my free 86 Lebaron with 180K on the clock. It's all junk but it is so much fun! You are correct with the paint job. It's all pine tack paper with a oak racing stripe and windshield banner. The most fun you can have with junk parts hands down. I would really like to see someone do a nice version with proper fabrication etc. And BTW: ChadTech only sucks after about 10 beers :-D I'm also resonsible for the super cool aluminum throttle lever. Chad http://www.extremepsi.dns2go.com - Original Message - From: Rick D. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 9:02 PM Subject: SD Twin engine shadow Guys, I saw this car at the last SDAC drag event. I walked up the stairs to the grandstands/bleachers and looked over to see what looked like a 88ish Dodge Shadow ES doing a RWD burnout! I was like WTF? Then I see it stop. Then I see it proceed to do a FWD burnout!!! (and yes the rear wheels were now stationary!) I spit my drink all over the place. I couldn't believe my eyes. I walked over to the car in the pits and let me tell you guys somethingI could not stop laughing my ass off for the next 30 minutes. This baby is SWT! Two old beat up Turbo I's shod with log manifolds (that look to be fresh out of the junkyard - BTW) power this cream puff! The guys that built it were all there and all were super cool. We were all cracking up together. These guys are NOT kidding when they tell you they have ~$300 invested in this car. Every piece was.ahem..custom fabricated and whoever made the part signed their name to it. I saw a sweet looking bracket that read: Chad Tech Sucks! I almost fell down laughing! I watched it run a 13 second pass. It looks like it has contact paper for a paint job. I think Motor Trend should write an article on this car and put it up against like a brand new Nissan 350z. HAHAHA!! Well done guys! Later, Rick ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 20% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (dead as a doornail) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 87 two-piece intake
Seems to me that they usually fetch $200, give or take $50 depending on condition of the paint on it. That's assuming you include the irreplaceable fuel rail. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 20% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (dead as a doornail) On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 13:24:00 -0400, Chris Mullins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just wondering what this was worth, considering selling it because i don't plan on using it. Thanks [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Another Great Example of Shelby Value
It's only worth that much if it actually sells. I could list my Shelby Charger for $50,000. Doesn't mean I'm actually going to sell it. We'll see if he gets what he wants for it. -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 20% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (dead as a doornail) On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 10:44:25 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: _http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=2493722520 category=6199_ (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=2493722520category=6199) Item number: 2493722520 25,000 miles 87 GLHS #913 $7000 - $10,500 buy it now Got ta love it :o) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Riced GLHS on Ebay
Someone save this poor car. Ebay auction # 2490402648 -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 20% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (dead as a doornail) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD I'm intercooled! Turbo II.5
hehe, I'm calling it a Turbo II.5, since it's a Turbo II, but it's a 2.5L engine. ;) I used some very unique hose to plumb in the NPR intercooler I installed in the front on my Daytona. It's rubber marine exhaust hose. Very stiff and thick. And cheaper than radiator hose. It was $8 a foot, bought it locally at a boat supply store (there are like 15 of them in the immediate vicinity). The stuff is so sold that I had to cut it with a chop saw. Awesome stuff. I'm running a Turbo II computer (thanks Johnny, it's the one that came with the van I bought from him) on my 2.5L engine, with +20 injectors (thanks Jerry Lewis for the great price on almost new +20's, and very fast shipping). Turned out my Daytona really was already wired up for an air charge sensor. Very handy. I installed the air charge sensor in the intercooler, to save me from having to pull the intake to drill and tap it. I'm running the base timing at 8 degrees to offset the hotter spark curve that my 2.5 can't hand! le. I did some very unique nose mods to my Daytona to improve the air flow to the intercooler. http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/648403/2 I avoided cardomain for the longest time, but it's nice being able to post nice resolution pictures for free, along with plenty of text to go with them. I described everything I did in great detail along with those pictures. Please check it out. Brian '88 Daytona Pacifica Turbo II.5 - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD intake charge temperature readings...
Hehe, I just used a very unique material for my intercooler. Marine exhaust hose.. hehe.. Anyways, I've been told of someone who was running a Mitsu turbo without an intercooler, while using a scantool, he got temps of 480f from his air charge sensor. So I'd say 500-600f WORST case. Probably well under 400f normally. Paul T. Standaert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Can someone tell me how hot the compressed intake air gets? I honestly don't have much of an idea, but i'd like to know because I have a brainstorm on something to use for intercooler plumbing. Preferably it'd be nice to know what the temps are before and after the intercooler if equipped. - Do you Yahoo!? Vote for the stars of Yahoo!'s next ad campaign! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html - Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Headlights in '87 Z
Pull the module out of the dash, crack the case open and remove the potting compound from the bottom of the circuit board, if there is any. Then re-flow all the solder joints. Be careful if it has potting compound, it's toxic. Clean your hands after dealing with the board. I did this to my headlight controller when I first got my Daytona, still works, been something like 10 months now. Much cheaper than replacing it. Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Replace the headlight controller module under the dash (its directly in the center of the top of the dash under the windshield. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dee and Nickie Durant Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 12:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD Headlights in '87 Z I just bought one (my first daytona) and it has the classic headlight motor's no worky problem. Can someone please tell me what I can do to fix them? THANK'S! Dee Durant Oshkosh, Wi. '87Z and Charger ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
