Re: [Spit] clutch pin query

2007-06-18 Thread Henry Stike
Sorry haven't replied sooner. but everyone saying
what we are using.. a nice grade8 bolt, threaded
at end only.. Fact we just had it all apart to
replace the clutch.. I told Henry to STOP litein
them wheels up for the girls

Don't know WHY he won't listen to father most of the
time. I know, I'm just a dummy and don't know
nuthin.

When you guys recommend something he will listen

yah, that pin being good is a KEY to good cluth
operation!

Donald Stike

P.S. He also got the right needle for carb and now
Christina is running very good

--- Doug Braun [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Try real hard to find a bolt that has the unthreaded
 section sufficiently long to keep the threads from
 bearing much of the load.  Using a threaded bolt
 as a hinge pin or clevis pin can be a bad idea,
 because
 the threads will cut into the other parts and/or get
 chewed up themselves.
 
 If you feel like being a purist and using the
 original-style pin and sleeve:  the sleeve is a bit
 of
 corrugated thin springy sheet metal rolled into a
 cylinder.  Its role is to hold the pin in place.
 If the old was was stil there, you could probably
 push it (or its fragments) out with a long bolt.
 But I really wonder why they went with a design
 where
 the pin could just fall out...
 
 Doug Braun
 '72 Spit
 
 --- Bob Berger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Jim,
  
  This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware
  store that is long enough
  that it has +/- 2 of unthreaded shaft and is the
  correct size to fit in the
  hole.  I think the shaft is 1/4 or 3/8.  Drop
 this
  in from the top and
  then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto
  the end.  The nut does
  not need to be completely tightened down.  This
 will
  serve as a new pin and
  will not fall out in the future.
  
  Bob Berger
  78 Spitfire
 it your replies!
 



 

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Re: [Spit] clutch pin query

2007-06-17 Thread Doug Braun
--- Greg Rowe [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Doug's point is very well taken though and
 if you have a
 bolt with too much threads, ideally you should fill
 the
 extra threads in with something - JB Weld perhaps?

Maybe it is best to get a bolt that is too long,
and then use a die to cut just the right amount of
additional threads on the threaded end.

Doug

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RE: [Spit] clutch pin query

2007-06-17 Thread Clark W. Nicholls
That's exactly what I did... 30+ years ago.
Still there...
Clark 

-Original Message-
Jim,

This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware store that is long enough
that it has +/- 2 of unthreaded shaft and is the correct size to fit in the
hole.  I think the shaft is 1/4 or 3/8.  Drop this in from the top and
then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto the end.  The nut does
not need to be completely tightened down.  This will serve as a new pin and
will not fall out in the future.

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire

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Re: [Spit] clutch pin query

2007-06-16 Thread Bob Berger
Jim,

This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware store that is long enough
that it has +/- 2 of unthreaded shaft and is the correct size to fit in the
hole.  I think the shaft is 1/4 or 3/8.  Drop this in from the top and
then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto the end.  The nut does
not need to be completely tightened down.  This will serve as a new pin and
will not fall out in the future.

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
 
 I need some help!  The Spitbits online catalogue shows a clutch pin
 and a sleeve.  It has been a long time since I looked at these parts
 in person and I don't recall anything resembling a sleeve.  Also I
 don't recall exactly how the pin is held in place, whether it is by
 friction to the fork pin or friction to the bell housing.  I'm hoping
 I can install a new pin without cracking the bell housing from the
 block.  But if a sleeve is supposed to reside within the holes in the
 pin, I'm not sure there is one now, which means I may have to pull
 the thing apart after all.  What I see now (by mirror) is a hole in
 the bell housing and holes just about the same diameter in the clutch
 arm.  Am I missing something???
 
 Tanks!
 
 -- 
 Jim Muller
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6

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RE: [Spit] clutch pin query

2007-06-16 Thread Bill Gingerich
Hi Jim,

It's been 4-5 years since I did the clutch in my '74 Spit, but I remember
having the same questions.  The sleeve that you see in the catalog is what
holds the pin in.  As I recall, it looked like a piece of lightly corrugated
metal that had been rolled into a cylinder.  It slides into the pivot hole,
and then the pin gets driven inside.  The interference fit caused by the
sleeve is what holds the pin.  At the time, I replaced the pin and sleeve in
my car, but I hadn't heard about the bolt trick.  If I had it to do over,
I'd put the bolt in.  I say that primarily because I think I'm now in the
same boat as you.  My clutch is engaging just off the floor, and I'm betting
the pin is sliding out of the sleeve.  FWIW, I don't think the sleeve will
interfere with the bolt fix whether it's in there or not.  Put the bolt
through, and call it good.

Bill Gingerich
1974 Spitfire - Lazarus
  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 5:30 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spit] clutch pin query

I need some help!  The Spitbits online catalogue shows a clutch pin 
and a sleeve.  It has been a long time since I looked at these parts 
in person and I don't recall anything resembling a sleeve.  Also I 
don't recall exactly how the pin is held in place, whether it is by 
friction to the fork pin or friction to the bell housing.  I'm hoping 
I can install a new pin without cracking the bell housing from the 
block.  But if a sleeve is supposed to reside within the holes in the 
pin, I'm not sure there is one now, which means I may have to pull 
the thing apart after all.  What I see now (by mirror) is a hole in 
the bell housing and holes just about the same diameter in the clutch 
arm.  Am I missing something???

Tanks!

-- 
Jim Muller
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

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Re: [Spit] clutch pin query

2007-06-16 Thread Doug Braun
Try real hard to find a bolt that has the unthreaded
section sufficiently long to keep the threads from
bearing much of the load.  Using a threaded bolt
as a hinge pin or clevis pin can be a bad idea,
because
the threads will cut into the other parts and/or get
chewed up themselves.

If you feel like being a purist and using the
original-style pin and sleeve:  the sleeve is a bit of
corrugated thin springy sheet metal rolled into a
cylinder.  Its role is to hold the pin in place.
If the old was was stil there, you could probably
push it (or its fragments) out with a long bolt.
But I really wonder why they went with a design where
the pin could just fall out...

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- Bob Berger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jim,
 
 This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware
 store that is long enough
 that it has +/- 2 of unthreaded shaft and is the
 correct size to fit in the
 hole.  I think the shaft is 1/4 or 3/8.  Drop this
 in from the top and
 then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto
 the end.  The nut does
 not need to be completely tightened down.  This will
 serve as a new pin and
 will not fall out in the future.
 
 Bob Berger
 78 Spitfire

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Re: [Spit] clutch pin query

2007-06-16 Thread Greg Rowe

I actually ended up combining the two ideas - a long bolt with
a piece of metal flashing cut and then wrapped around the
bolt so it acted as a friction pin, an extra pivoting point and
a sacrificial surface to the threads (as well as removing some
slop).  Doug's point is very well taken though and if you have a
bolt with too much threads, ideally you should fill the
extra threads in with something - JB Weld perhaps?

Best!

Greg Rowe



From: Doug Braun [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Doug Braun [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Jim Muller [EMAIL PROTECTED], spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spit] clutch pin query
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2007 20:42:11 -0700 (PDT)

Try real hard to find a bolt that has the unthreaded
section sufficiently long to keep the threads from
bearing much of the load.  Using a threaded bolt
as a hinge pin or clevis pin can be a bad idea,
because
the threads will cut into the other parts and/or get
chewed up themselves.

If you feel like being a purist and using the
original-style pin and sleeve:  the sleeve is a bit of
corrugated thin springy sheet metal rolled into a
cylinder.  Its role is to hold the pin in place.
If the old was was stil there, you could probably
push it (or its fragments) out with a long bolt.
But I really wonder why they went with a design where
the pin could just fall out...

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- Bob Berger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jim,

 This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware
 store that is long enough
 that it has +/- 2 of unthreaded shaft and is the
 correct size to fit in the
 hole.  I think the shaft is 1/4 or 3/8.  Drop this
 in from the top and
 then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto
 the end.  The nut does
 not need to be completely tightened down.  This will
 serve as a new pin and
 will not fall out in the future.

 Bob Berger
 78 Spitfire




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