Sorry haven't replied sooner..... but everyone saying
what we are using...... a nice grade8 bolt, threaded
at end only...... Fact we just had it all apart to
replace the clutch...... I told Henry to STOP litein
them wheels up for the girls....

Don't know WHY he won't listen to father most of the
time..... I know, I'm just a dummy and don't know
nuthin.....

When you guys recommend something he will listen....

yah, that pin being good is a KEY to good cluth
operation!

Donald Stike

P.S. He also got the right needle for carb and now
Christina is running very good....

--- Doug Braun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Try real hard to find a bolt that has the unthreaded
> section sufficiently long to keep the threads from
> bearing much of the load.  Using a threaded bolt
> as a hinge pin or clevis pin can be a bad idea,
> because
> the threads will cut into the other parts and/or get
> chewed up themselves.
> 
> If you feel like being a purist and using the
> original-style pin and sleeve:  the sleeve is a bit
> of
> corrugated thin springy sheet metal rolled into a
> cylinder.  Its role is to hold the pin in place.
> If the old was was stil there, you could probably
> push it (or its fragments) out with a long bolt.
> But I really wonder why they went with a design
> where
> the pin could just fall out...
> 
> Doug Braun
> '72 Spit
> 
> --- Bob Berger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > Jim,
> > 
> > This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware
> > store that is long enough
> > that it has +/- 2" of unthreaded shaft and is the
> > correct size to fit in the
> > hole.  I think the shaft is 1/4" or 3/8".  Drop
> this
> > in from the top and
> > then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto
> > the end.  The nut does
> > not need to be completely tightened down.  This
> will
> > serve as a new pin and
> > will not fall out in the future.
> > 
> > Bob Berger
> > 78 Spitfire
> it your replies!
> 



 
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