I actually ended up combining the two ideas - a long bolt with
a piece of metal flashing cut and then wrapped around the
bolt so it acted as a friction pin, an extra pivoting point and
a sacrificial surface to the threads (as well as removing some
slop). Doug's point is very well taken though and if you have a
bolt with too much threads, ideally you should fill the
extra threads in with something - JB Weld perhaps?
Best!
Greg Rowe
From: Doug Braun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Doug Braun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jim Muller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spit] clutch pin query
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2007 20:42:11 -0700 (PDT)
Try real hard to find a bolt that has the unthreaded
section sufficiently long to keep the threads from
bearing much of the load. Using a threaded bolt
as a hinge pin or clevis pin can be a bad idea,
because
the threads will cut into the other parts and/or get
chewed up themselves.
If you feel like being a purist and using the
original-style pin and sleeve: the sleeve is a bit of
corrugated thin springy sheet metal rolled into a
cylinder. Its role is to hold the pin in place.
If the old was was stil there, you could probably
push it (or its fragments) out with a long bolt.
But I really wonder why they went with a design where
the pin could just fall out...
Doug Braun
'72 Spit
--- Bob Berger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jim,
>
> This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware
> store that is long enough
> that it has +/- 2" of unthreaded shaft and is the
> correct size to fit in the
> hole. I think the shaft is 1/4" or 3/8". Drop this
> in from the top and
> then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto
> the end. The nut does
> not need to be completely tightened down. This will
> serve as a new pin and
> will not fall out in the future.
>
> Bob Berger
> 78 Spitfire
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