[Cameramakers] big old bellows

2003-04-02 Thread John Cremati
I had listed a big old bellows on E-bay in case anyone's interested Item
# 2921134820

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=15248item=2921134820
rd=1

John Cremati

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Re: [Cameramakers] Re: Pacific Optical Again

2003-04-01 Thread john
Gene Johnson wrote:

 I don't remember the conversation with John Stafford, 

We never had a conversation, Gene. I found your earlier posts from 2000
in the archives.

 but I did make a camera with a fp shutter.  

The rear lens sits very close to the film, so a FP shutter would seem a
good idea. However, for Proto #1 I modified the original shutter into a
M and T setting.

  but I am in agreement with
 whoever was trying to put a shutter inside it like Steve Grimes

I talked to Steve a couple weeks ago and he has never installed a
shutter into this particular lens. He has done many of the smaller 75mm
military lenses. (That is, those with the 3 front element. This one has
a front element closer to 6)

 It does.  It looked like a Copal Press #0 would fit in there 
 with a little judicious dremel work

It very well might if you could remove the massive amount of steel that
would cover the shutter controls. On Prototype #2 I am using an Ilex #5
shutter with lots of steel removed from the lens.

 on the shutter and the lens housing.  I need to set it up on my
Horseman
 and
 really see what it can do in terms of coverage.

May I save you the grief?  It was built to cover 5 square without
lightfalloff and it does that _perfectly_. It does not cover 8 quite
properly. 

Remember, this is just a 200% scaled-up Biogon 38mm.

 If it will cover well
 enough to make it worthwhile, I'd like to make a shift camera out of
it.

It might work if you machine the back to oblivion. The rear of the lens
protrudes into a Swiss Arca back such that it cannot be lifted up or
down. Remember, this lens sits within .5 of the film at infinity. No
shift is possible without removing the restricting top and bottom of the
ground-glass holder.

 This lens weighs 6 pounds!

Oh, we must be talking about two different lenses. You may have the
little one. Mine weights more than that.

Guess we better get our lens specs together so we know what we are
talking about.

I have lots of pictures of Proto #1 and drawings of Proto #2.
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Re: [Cameramakers] Re: Pacific Optical Again

2003-04-01 Thread john
On Tue, 01 Apr 2003 15:14:47 -0800 (PST), Michael Hendrickson wrote:

 I think I have one of the same model of lens! It's sitting in a box
 right now. After considering putting an old Volkswagen motor on it and
 driving it around, I decided to save it for the project camera that I
 will build or modify around it

:) Well, I drive a '58 Volkwagen. Unfortunately, it's rather
underpowered to schlep that big old lens around.

 Anyway, when I was considering buying it, I called Pacific Optical and
 talked with a gentleman there (whose name, unfortunately, I did not
 write down) who told me that the lens has a design such that stuff
stays
 rectilinear -- I assume he meant that one won't get the fish-eye effect
 with it.

This lens is more properly called a Mapping lens. It was used in a
couple different shutter configurations for military survey work, and in
civilian applications but at low altitudes - closer to aerial mapping
altitudes. Mapping lenses are subject to two specific criteria - VERY
low distortion and they are all rated at full-aperture (regardless of
whether they have a diaphram.) This lens is a 200 scale Biogon 38mm and
has almost ZERO distorion (as the Biogon is famous for) and resolves
40mm line-par per millimeter.

 I procured an old aerial shutter which it seems might fit into the
 innards of this lens housing

Be careful. There are some shutters for the 6 lens in circulation. If
you try to push it down the shutter slot it will bang on the front and
rear lenses. It's too wide. I cover all this in an article online that I
can post when I get home.

 [...] The shutter is not
 complete, in that a timing mechanism which was probably a separate unit
 is not with the shutter. But it has aperture control 

There is no aperture control for the 3 lens. Instead, there are two
guillotine shutters that work in opposition. This lens (if we are
talking of the same one) has no diaphram.

 Any info you have on how to configure all this would be vastly
 appreciated!

Will post pictures and text later this evening.

PS: This is really a 3 lens, not 75mm. :) And the aperture is closer to
F3.5 if you use civilian (commercial) metrics. I suspect the government
contract might have convinced the makers to include the T factor.

Very Best,
John Stafford
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Re: [Cameramakers] Deja all over again

2003-04-01 Thread john
On Tue, 01 Apr 2003 15:36:06 -0800 (PST), Gerald Newlands wrote:

 I have also used it to photograph soil profiles in arachaelogical
 sites for the University of Calgary. [...]

Ahah! What a great application!  I know that David Brill, an expedition
photographer for National Geographic, used a 21mm Zeiss then a 15mm
Hologon on 35mm for much of his work for the very reasons you gave. (He
uses a lot of 8x10 and 4x5 now.) Yes, you folks have some strident
measures to work with in your field. If you find your F5.6 47mm
adequate, then maybe I'd best look at my build again. Thanks for the
input.
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Re: [Cameramakers] VC blue / green

2003-04-01 Thread john
On Tue, 01 Apr 2003 15:42:56 -0800 (PST), huw wrote:

 See my led enlarger at huws.homlinux,net

huw means http://huws.homelinux.net/leden.htm
(I make so many typos myselof I can interpret them!)
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[Cameramakers] Re: (Pictures of ) Aerial - Pacific Optical

2003-04-01 Thread John Stafford
on 4/1/03 4:04 PM, Andy Buck at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Can we see pictures of your first?

Sure!  http://wind.winona.edu/~stafford/pn

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Re: [Cameramakers] View Camera Magazine

2003-03-31 Thread John Stafford
on 3/31/03 8:16 AM, Beau Schwarz at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I drove the 90 miles to the nearest BarnesNoble only to find they no longer
 stock the magazine. [...]

You can write to Steve Simmons directly: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Tell him that BN no longer carries his magazine and he'll likely go
ballistic, so best be sure that's correct information. 

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Re: [Cameramakers] View Camera Magazine

2003-03-31 Thread John Yeo
I've never seen it in barnes and noble.

John

- Original Message -
From: John Stafford [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] View Camera Magazine


 on 3/31/03 8:16 AM, Beau Schwarz at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  I drove the 90 miles to the nearest BarnesNoble only to find they no
longer
  stock the magazine. [...]

 You can write to Steve Simmons directly: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Tell him that BN no longer carries his magazine and he'll likely go
 ballistic, so best be sure that's correct information.

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Re: [Cameramakers] 4x5 Plans AVAILABLE ONLINE

2003-03-31 Thread John Yeo
To anybody who would like the 4x5 camera plans, originally from the october
1942 issue of Popular Mechanics and made available by Jim Ketcheson, I have
the plans hosted on my website.  http://www.enteric.org/4x5_camera.pdf

John


- Original Message -
From: Stephen Mah [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] 4x5 Plans


 Good Day!
 Could you please also send me the 4x5 view camera as well please!
 Thank you, and look forward to your reply!

 Steve
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 - Original Message -
 From: Wes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 4:32 AM
 Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] 4x5 Plans


  I would like a copy as well.
  Thanks
 
  Wes Carson
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  On Sunday, March 30, 2003, at 10:48 AM, Beau Schwarz wrote:
 
   Hi,
   Could you please email me a copy of your plans.
   Thanks
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  
  
   Message: 1
   From: Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 19:19:20 -0500
   Subject: [Cameramakers] 4 x 5 View Camera
   Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   I have a PDF file covering the making of a 4 x 5 view camera from
   Popular
   Mechanics Magazine for October 1942. The file is 1,049 Kb in size. If
   anyone
   wishes this file please let me know.
   Jim Ketcheson
   Belleville, Canada
  
   Hi Jim,
  
   could I have a copy please.
  
   Ned
  
  
  
   _
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[Cameramakers] homade 4x5 point and shoot

2003-03-30 Thread John Cremati



There is a interesting homemade camera on E-Bay.. 
Just found it interesting.. John Cremati.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=2920472167category=15247


[Cameramakers] re: 100 Megapixel Graflex Speed Graphic

2003-03-23 Thread John Stafford
 Subject: [Cameramakers] 100 Megapixel Graflex Speed Graphic

 My interest in photography is very-high resolution digital
 imagery, at low cost.  I have had good success with a
 Graflex Speed Graphic combined with an Epson Perfection
 2450 scanner. 

(Lost attributes - sorry)

If you wish to deploy your very large digital images on the Web, and (for
now) don't mind that only Windows platforms can display them, check out
what's built into PS7.

Here's a site that demos a couple large images. Let the plugin download,
then zoom in and pan using the mouse. As you zoom in the image will blur to
let you navigate at magnification, then after you release the mouse, the
image will fill in the detail. (Only the images on the left pertain.)

http://arts.winona.edu/i/mc/index.html

I'll be putting up some 50mb images when I find the time. Feel free to
contact me if you  wish your image put up.

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Re: [Cameramakers] science project

2003-03-22 Thread john frost
DARKROOM PHOTOGRAPHY Magazine, May 1990. By Alfred A. Blaker. Page 20,
Article is 'BIG BOXES'. He outlines building LF cameras from cardboard.
I used Foamcore for 4x5 and 8x10 cameras. An old copier lens for $10 to
$20 works great.

Also checkout 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0967914701/pinholevisionswe/002-5138802-6128010

for a book on pinhole cameras (with lenses!),
and also 

http://www.pinhole.com/

for a complete resource.

john (:))

 Message: 1
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:03:21 EST
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [Cameramakers] science project
 Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 --part1_55.3b6cb139.2ba88f39_boundary
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 
 My first grader has a science project coming up soon, she is fasinated
 with how a camera works, would it be possible to send us some information
 about the making of a camera, and even try to build a model of one.
 Thank you so much for any help you can offer us.
 
 
 Laura Coolberth
 
  P.O. BOX 195
 
  Hill, N.H. 03243
 
 --part1_55.3b6cb139.2ba88f39_boundary
 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
 HTMLFONT FACE=3Darial,helveticaFONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3DSANSSERIF FACE=
 =3DArial LANG=3D0My first grader has a science project coming up soon,=20=
 she is fasinatedBR
 with how a camera works, would it be possible to send us some informationBR=
 
 about the making of a camera, and even try to build a model of one.BR
 Thank you so much for any help you can offer us.BR
 BR
 nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbs=
 p;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;n=
 bsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;=
 nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbs=
 p;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;n=
 bsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;=
 nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbs=
 p; Laura CoolberthBR
--really big honkin' snip
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Re: [Cameramakers] science project

2003-03-20 Thread John Yeo



How about making a box viewer (list - is there a 
better name for what i'm describing?) to illustrate how a lens works. Have 
two cardboard boxes that slide into each other - the first having one open side, 
and the second having an open side, and a side covered by wax paper, and maybe 
some extra flaps to keep outside light off the waxed paper (so you would be able 
to see the image on the wax paper better). Use black duct tape or 
electrical tape to put the boxes together to keep out stray light that will make 
the image less visible. 

For a lens, she can tape a lens from a pair of 
reading glasses over a hole in the front of the first box. Make the hole 
as large as possible and use the widest reading glasses lens you can find for 
the brightest image on the waxed paper. 

As for a lens, I'd suggest popping the lens out of 
a pair of reading glasses.With reading glass lenses, the focal 
length in millimeters (the distancefrom the lens to the waxed paper) will 
be 1000/magnification. The magnification will hopefully be listed on the 
reading glasses like "2.5x". If you can't find the magnification on the 
glasses, you can focus an image of the sun on the ground (like frying bugs with a magnifying glass). When you get the 
brightest spot on the ground, measure the distance from the lens to the ground, 
and that will be the approximate focal length. 

When everything is put together, she can take the 
box outside, point the lens at objects, and will see the object, upside down on 
the waxed paper. That's pretty much how a camera works. 


I'm guessing it's more of a "demonstrate a 
scientific principle" than an actual experiment, so this should work pretty 
well. Maybe in the display, she could set up the box, pointed at a 
lightbulb, and an image of the lightbulb will be visible on the waxed 
paper.

I drew a quick sketch of what I'm talking about 
(hopefully that will clarify my vague description) and put it up at http://www.enteric.org/project.jpg(55kb

Hope this helps,
John
http://www.enteric.org/
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 7:03 
  AM
  Subject: [Cameramakers] science 
  project
  My first grader has a science project coming up soon, she 
  is fasinatedwith how a camera works, would it be possible to send us some 
  informationabout the making of a camera, and even try to build a model of 
  one.Thank you so much for any help you can offer 
  us. 
  Laura 
  Coolberth 
  P.O. BOX 
  195 
  Hill, N.H. 03243


Re: [Cameramakers] science project

2003-03-20 Thread John Yeo



Nevermind, it's a camera obscura.

John

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  John Yeo 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 1:19 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] science 
  project
  
  How about making a box viewer (list - is there a 
  better name for what i'm describing?) 


[Cameramakers] Intro

2003-03-18 Thread john
Newbie here. I don't know if conventions call for an introduction, but
briefly, my name is John Stafford and I live in Southeast Minnesota,
work in academic technology and am also a retired Chicago
photojournalist (newspaper photographer, magazine editor). To keep my
sanity (arguable) in our dark winters, I make oddball cameras.

Good to be here.
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Re: [Cameramakers] removing old leather

2003-03-17 Thread John Yeo
I did a speed graphic like that - I removed all the metal trim and used a
knife to start removing the leather.  I then used pliers and my fingers to
rip the rest off in little sections.  I took a few photos of the process, at
http://www.enteric.org/speed/index.html

John
- Original Message -
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 2:47 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] removing old leather


 Hello all,

 I have a very beat up Ensign Popular large format reflex camera.  It's
 pretty far gone with very bad leather, ruined fp shutter mechanism, and no
 lens.  I'm thinking of removing the fp shutter, and putting a press
shutter
 on it with a old 150 symmar I have.  I want to remove the old leather and
 refinish it as a wooden camera.  What recommendations do you have for
 removing old leather from wood bodied cameras like this one?

 Gene


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Re: [Cameramakers] removing old leather

2003-03-17 Thread John Yeo
I forgot to add, After I removed the leather, I put the camera carcass in
the sink, and removed the glue with hot water.

John
- Original Message -
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 2:47 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] removing old leather


 Hello all,

 I have a very beat up Ensign Popular large format reflex camera.  It's
 pretty far gone with very bad leather, ruined fp shutter mechanism, and no
 lens.  I'm thinking of removing the fp shutter, and putting a press
shutter
 on it with a old 150 symmar I have.  I want to remove the old leather and
 refinish it as a wooden camera.  What recommendations do you have for
 removing old leather from wood bodied cameras like this one?

 Gene


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Re: [Cameramakers] Polaroid 545 or 545i

2003-03-15 Thread John Cremati
Why would you? Polaroid film holders are used for Polaroid film..(you would
wear it out prematurely using everything and anything.)  Standard film
holders are generally used for film or paper negatives..
- Original Message -
From: Andrey Donchev [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 9:19 AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Polaroid 545 or 545i


 Hi, I'm new in large format photography and camera making. Actually now
I'm
 starting to build my first 4x5 folding camera. My question is:
 Can I use a normal 4x5 sheet film with the Polaroid 545 or 545i film
 holders?
 Thank you in advance!
 Andrey Donchev

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Re: [Cameramakers] 4 x 5 View Camera

2003-03-11 Thread John Yeo
If you send it to me, I can upload it to my website for others to download.

John
- Original Message -
From: Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 4:19 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] 4 x 5 View Camera


 I have a PDF file covering the making of a 4 x 5 view camera from Popular
 Mechanics Magazine for October 1942. The file is 1,049 Kb in size. If
anyone
 wishes this file please let me know.
 Jim Ketcheson
 Belleville, Canada

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[Cameramakers] 4x5 view camera PDF uploaded

2003-03-11 Thread John Yeo
I have uploaded the pdf to: http://www.enteric.org/4x5_Camera.pdf

Thanks again to Jim for providing this.

John

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Re: [Cameramakers] Fw: Black and White Films (KMM3450335C0KM)

2003-03-11 Thread John Cremati
This is a good report.. Would they have the references for 20x24?
- Original Message -
From: Uptown Gallery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 6:07 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Fw: Black and White Films (KMM3450335C0KM)


 I inquired of Kodak today about sheet film sizes and got an interesting
 reply.

 Aside from being 'proprietary' (!), there is a reference for how they come
 up with the tolerances for various sizes




Hello  Murray,
 
  Thank you for contacting Kodak Professional.
 
 
 
  The exact sizes of sheet film are proprietary information;
  however, Kodak does conform to the ANSI standards listed below:
 
  
  |Nominal Size | Minimum | Aim | Maximum |
  | (Inches)| (Inches)| (Inches)| (Inches)|
  -
  | 4 x 5   | 3.91 x 4.91 | 3.92 x 4.92 | 3.94 x 4.94 |
  -
  | 8 x 10  | 7.91 x 9.92 | 7.94 x 9.95 | 7.97 x 9.98 |
  -
 
  For sizes not shown in the previous table, use this ANSI  standard:
 
 
 
  +|---|---+
  | Nominal Size (N) | Aim   |  Tolerances   |
  |   (Centimeters)| (Millimeters) | (Millimeters) |
  ++
  |N  12  |N - 1.5| + 0.5 |
  ++
  |   12  N  65  |N - 2.0| + 1.0 |
  ++
  |   65  N   |N - 2.5| + 1.5 |
  ++---+---+
 
 
 
  http://www.kodak.com/go/professional
 
  If you should have any questions on Kodak products or services, please
  be sure to revisit our site as we are continually adding information to
  enhance our support.  If you need further assistance you may also reach
  us at 1-800-242-2424  ext. 19 (Monday-Friday, 9am-7pm EST)
 
  Regards,
 
  Bruce H.
  KODAK Information and Technical Support
  KODAK Professional
 
 
 
 
 
  Original message follows:
  -
 
  Question:  Hello:
 
  I am looking for standard dimensions for 4x5 and
  5x7 film to make a fixture to cut down 5 roll
  film to fit 4x5 and 5x7 film holders.
 
  Thank you
 
  Category:  Professional
  Subcategory:  Black and White Films
  Referer:
  readableSubject:  Black and White Films
  Name:  Murray Leshner
  Email:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Country:  US
  Phone:
  Address 1:  205 Columbia Ave
  Address 2:
  City:  Holland
  State:  MI
  Zip/Postal Code:  49423
  conf:  /global/include/en/service/contact/contact.conf
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


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[Cameramakers] Re: Cameramakers Plans for a studio stand?

2003-03-05 Thread john frost

How about a 6 foot section of 2 inch galvanized pipe. Mount a 2 inch
floor flange to a piece of 1.25 inch plywood, triangle shape, 3 feet per
side. The pipe is large enough for a sash weight counter balance, with a
pulley for the support wire/rope at the top. Keep the camera over one of
the legs, unless you use a counter weighted arm. A threaded knob screwed
into the arm, pressing against the pipe column should hold it from
moving about.

john (:)) geez, I'm cheap





Message: 2
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 18:46:37 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: Matt McKee [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Cameramakers] 

Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I am looking for ways to build an inexpensive camera stand for studio 
use. I remember seeing a set of plans years ago in a diy book for a 
monopod on wheels but can't find it again and can't remember if it 
was sturdy enough for a 4x5 monorail.

I am working in a very small space with a low ceiling so most 
commercial camera stands are out. Also, they are more than I want to 
spend.

Anyone have any suggestions for a 6 foot camera stand?

Thanks,

Matt
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[Cameramakers] Reflex Viewfinder?

2003-02-23 Thread John Moore
Hello all,

I'm interested in repurposing a mirror section from an
interesting, but no very useful, close-up camera. The
mirror is set at a 45-degree angle in a plastic
housing. I'd like to convert it to a reflex viewfinder
that will fit on the back of my Crown Graphic. My
question: what do I use as a viewing lens? 

Thanks!
John Moore
Ramona, CA

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Re: [Cameramakers] 9x12 to 4x5 adaptor

2003-02-03 Thread John Yeo
What type of camera is the adaptor for?

John

- Original Message -
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 2:04 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] 9x12 to 4x5 adaptor


 Well I finished my adaptor and it seems to be functionally perfect if
 marginally ugly.  All my 4x5 magazines, film holders and roll film backs
fit
 fine.  the estimated total cost is around 20 bucks.  The back is sort of a
 spring back but with a removable groundglass.  The spring is made of music
 wire about 2mm in dia and is bend into sort of a recurved bucket handle.
 Pulling outward allows removal of the groundglass or filmholder. Like I
 mentioned before, the adaptor is made of many small pieces of ABS sheet
 glued and screwed together.

 I replaced the 135 CZJ Tessar with a 127mm Ektar I already had.  This
mostly
 for the flash synch, though I suspect the Ektar will be a slightly nicer
 lens than the lovely old Tessar.  Perfect for portraits in the park with
the
 6x7 roll back.  4x5 sheets will not get completely covered, of course, but
I
 don't lose very much.  9x12 comes to about 3 1/2 x 4 3/4.

  Cheers.

 Gene


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Re: [Cameramakers] OT:Light source for enlarging onto platinum-paladium and Kodak Azo papers

2003-02-03 Thread John
At 12:30 PM 2/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:

The problem with Carbon is that it will be very temperature
sensitive due to the large amount of gelatin used ...



This is a concern for me as I live in Tennessee (read:very warm 
summers) and I have no AC in the home. I'm just beginning to plan for an 
alternative process to traditional B--W. Will I have much difficulty such 
as sighted above ?


Regards

 John S. DouglasPhotographer  Webmaster
  Formulas, Facts and Info on the Photographic Process
http://www.darkroompro.com

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Re: [Cameramakers] Light source for enlarging onto platinum-paladium and Kodak Azo papers

2003-02-02 Thread John Cremati



I know that the famous Fresson studio in France had 
set up a Enlarger for their secret process which would need a great deal of 
UV... I believe that they discuss the camera on their site... Click on the 
English for the Enlgish translation... JC

http://photography.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.atelier-fresson.com%2F


Re: [Cameramakers] Light source for enlarging onto platinum-paladium and Kodak Azo papers

2003-02-02 Thread John Cremati

Hi Donald ,
   I also  know in the silk screen industry that they have projection
systems where they eliminate the large negatives used to contact print ,
and enlarge right on the coated silk screen...I have seen just one of
these cameras in a old silk screen catalog but have never tried to research
it any further.. The silk screen process requires a great deal of UV light
as well .. I know that Ulano ( a mfg of silk screen emulsions )  sell a
faster emulsion for the sole  purpose of silk screen projection systems
I do not know if the lenses used on these cameras are quartz or EL
Nikkors... I have heard ( not verified ) that these cameras sell for $50,000
..
   I have several high output UV lights intended for the silk screen
industry . One at 1000 watts, 2000watts, 5000 watts and then the
10,500watt pulsed xenon ... I was intending to experiment on temperatures at
the film plane as well as the enlargement plane  once I got the camera set
up as I feel this is going to be my biggest obstacle ..
  The process I am most interested in is Carbon Printing which I
believe possibly exceeds  platinum as the most beautiful process there is
( only does not have the expense of platinum plus offers a noticeable  high
relief quality that is found in no other process)The Fresson Process ,
although secret , is believed to be a  form of a carbon  printing
process.  The problem with Carbon is that it will be very temperature
sensitive due to the large amount of gelatin used ...  .  I was thinking of
rigging   a series of water cooled tubing to the vacuum frame on the
enlarger and piping it to a  photographic chiller that I have.. ... Another
idea is that   I would also wash the vacuum frame with the  breeze of a
small air conditioner.. And refrigerate the blower air that cools the film
in the light head...
I will photograph the light head  on the camera and send pictures off
list  if you want me to ..
Regards,
John Cremati


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Re: [Cameramakers] Light source for enlarging onto platinum-paladium and Kodak Azo papers

2003-02-02 Thread John Yeo
Somebody was advertising a goerz gotar as a quartz a while ago on ebay.  I
don't know if it actually is a quartz lens, or if the seller was
mis-informed.  A quick google search didn't turn up much.  Gotars aren't
super rare and usually sell for under $100.

John
--
http://www.enteric.org




snip
These enlarging lenses don't have the spectral transmission of a true
UV quarts lens, but then again they don't cost $3000 US dollars like
Nikon's quartz lens

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Re: [Cameramakers] Light source for enlarging onto platinum-paladium and Kodak Azo papers

2003-02-01 Thread John Cremati
 Hi Donald,
   The El Nikors will pass the UV light in the necessary range... other
lenses will not.. .. There are several threads concerning this on The
Alternative  Photo list...The El Nikors use a special glass that does not
filter UV like the others... We went as far as putting the lens on a UV
spectrometer to see what the readings were along with a few other lenses and
the only one that would pass the nessisary band width  was the El Nikor...
... The information will be on the threads..  I have a old color separation
camera with a 10,500 watt pulsed xenon  light head on it... It has a 1 hp
blower to keep things cool I was going it mount a 240mm El Nikor on this
enlarger for the purpose of enlarging directly to make carbon prints..
..
.
  Also for  glass  film carriers here is some specs on Shott glass...( this
may even be the glass that is used in the El-Nikors...
John Cremati


For those who are really interested in the exact physical and chemical
properties of a sheet of glass with a high UV transmission :
0%   at 280 nm
14% at 300 nm
65% at 320 nm
85% at 340 nm
90% from 360 nm and higher. thickness 2.0 mm
you can e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and ask him for the
specifications of Schott B270 superwite crown glass.He will send you a large
attachment (~800 kB) to his answer.
The internet address of an U.S. supplier is
http://www.howardglass.com/B270.html
Erich





- Original Message -



From: Gene Johnson
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Light source for enlarging onto
platinum-paladium and Kodak Azo papers


If I remember right,  UV doesn't like to pass through GLASS.

Gene
- Original Message -
From: DONALD MILLER
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 6:39 AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Light source for enlarging onto platinum-paladium
and Kodak Azo papers


I am working on development of a light source to allow enlarging of images
onto pt-pd and Azo papers. These papers need a light source in the upper UV
band (350-475 nm). The other consideration are that these emulsions are
markedly slower then conventional enlarging papers. I have two immediate
concerns those being:
1.UV is largely invisible and this presents the problem of focusing the
image on the easel. I could incorporate a conventional focusing light. If I
do so will I experience focus shift when I switch to the UV lighting?
Furthermore, will UV reflect in the same manner as visible light? I ask this
because the light source will be diffusion to eliminate the cost of building
condensors or buying a condensor enlarger since I already have three
diffusion enlargers.
2. Will UV transmit through a conventional multicoated enlarger lens? I have
an el-nikor 150 as my primary lens. I also have an older Schneider companon
135 mm which I think is uncoated. My Rodenstock medium format lenses are all
coated.
Any information or insight that you may provide will be greatly appreciated.


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Re: [Cameramakers] Light source for enlarging onto platinum-paladium and Kodak Azo papers

2003-02-01 Thread John Cremati





  Donald, 
   Here are some of the treads on the discussion of 
  UV transmission thru El- Nikor glass from the Alternative Photo list.. I hope 
  this will help...
   Please keep me informed of your 
  progress as I am extremely interested. I kind of dropped the ball after 
  getting this information and have still not hooked up my enlarger.. 
  
   I will measure the spacing on the pulsed 
  xenon bulbs.. I believe there were four in parrell close to a 
  ground glass for diffusing and then there were two longer 
  more powerful tubes .. crossing behind the 4 that were 
  perpendicular forming a checker pattern I do not think that 
  these bulbs were on for any length of time as they were intended to 
  expose ortho film which I believe has a ASA rating of about 5 or so 
  andat 10,500 watts , that would not take long... 
   I think the infrared will be a problem on 
  long exposures... I was considering rigging some sort of Air conditioning 
  system forthe film chamber as I do not know if the fan will be enough... 
  
   The enlarger will handle up to 11x14 
  negatives and has a 30x40 vacuumed frame for the enlargements ..
   .It is 10 feet tall and weighs 3000 
  pounds..(.This is probably the main reason that I have not hooked it up 
  yet..) 
  
  
  John Cremati 
  
  
  ..
  Scientific graphics supply catalog that all Nikon El Nikor Enlarging 
   Lenses were made of a special optical glass to allow passing of UV 
   waves between 350 and 450 nm.. I have also read of Sun enlargers 
   utilizing sunlight as the light source thru a lens to enlarge during 
   the turn of the century in the book "Keepers of Light "... 
  Bit lefthanded! If you compare BK7 and UBK7 at 350nm, the difference 
  ...Here's some 
  interesting information I picked up from a Nikon Catalogabout their 
  enlarging lenses:EL-Nikkor enlarging lenses are corrected for 
  chromatic aberrationbeyond the visible spectrum into near ultraviolet 
  wavelengths --wavelengths to which photographic papers are particularly 
  sensitive. Through the use of special optical glass and matching 
  opticalcoatings, EL-Nikkor lenses are designed for ultraviolet 
  transmissionin the 350 to 450 nm range. This means EL-Nikkor enlarging 
  lenses canbe used for color separation in addition to all other 
  enlargingapplications. EL-Nikkor lenses are also front threaded to accept 
  screwin accessories , and can be used for exceptional 
  small-objectphotography when mounted on a bellows.These enlarging 
  lenses don't have the spectral transmission of a trueUV quarts lens, but 
  then again they don't cost $3000 US dollars likeNikon's quartz 
  lens
  Folks:  I put a relatively new El-Nikkor 210 lens in the path 
  of my UV spectrophotometer today, and am happy to report that the lens 
  passes pretty well all UV radiation above 350 nm. In Comparison, my Fuji 
  300mm LF lens began to cut UV at around 400 nm, and showed strong 
  absorption by 380 nm. This makes sense, as plain old plate glass shows 
  similar trends. Cheers, Ed Stander 


Re: [Cameramakers] Re: making lens?

2003-01-31 Thread John Cremati
I found the book   Primitive Photography   good for inspiration only...
The film holder design lacks a light trap element which is critical.. The
diagrams do help you to visualize though and gets you thinking.. .. John
Cremati

 - Original Message -
 From: Ter McDonagh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 6:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Re: making lens?


  There's a book out called Primitive Photography that has a bunch of
 camera
  and lens designs based on 19th century prototypes.  Covers landscape,
  portrait, singlet, doublet, triplet designs, etc.  Outstanding book for
  inspiration.
 
  Terence


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Re: [Cameramakers] Pathfinder

2003-01-30 Thread John Moore
Okay, I looked at that... but I still don't get it. I
mean- why pay nearly $2700 for a camera that doesn't
seem to function any better than a Graflex Crown
Graphic with a top rangefinder? 

According to the site, this camera is pretty light-
okay, the Crown Graphic does way somewhere between 4 
5 pounds. But it isn't impossible to hand-hold,
especially with a lens as light as the ones he
mentions on his site (Rodenstock Ysarex   S-K
Symmars). 

I went hog wild last year  bought a near-mint
top-rangefinder Crown Graphic for almost $500 (okay-
stop laughing. No, really.) and it is quite functional
as a hand-held 4x5 (or 3-1/4 x 4-1/4 Pack Polaroids)
plus, it's great in the field.

Anybody have one of these Littman 45 Singles  want to
comment on it?

Thanks!
John Moore

PS: I really don't mean to be mean-spirited, I
honestly don't get it!



 Hi Antoine,
 
 You can have a look at this:
 
 http://www.littman45single.com/
 
 Best,
 
 Sam.
 
 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Hi
  I was wondering if any body has had any experience
  modifying a polaroid 110b or 110a for 4x5 use?
  I am in the process and just looking for
  inspiration.
 
  Thanks
  Antoine


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Re: Re: [Cameramakers] Pathfinder

2003-01-30 Thread John Yeo
I doubt the modification is very hard to perform.  All the warnings before
entering the site are to prevent kooks from doing the same thing and selling
them on ebay for a few hundred dollars.

John

 Me neither, and what about this respecting the makers IP before you can
look
 at the site ?  The camera didn't appear to be anything special.


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Re: [Cameramakers] blue wide angle 4x5

2003-01-28 Thread John Cremati
I hope this gets you there... John Cremati
  http://job.webstar.nl/newcampg.html


- Original Message -
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 10:38 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] blue wide angle 4x5


 Hello all,

 There was a guy, in Holland maybe, who built a really cool 4x5 with a wide
 angle lens, and a cam focuser.  It was painted blue I think.  I can't find
 the website anymore.  Does anyone remember that camera?

 Gene


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[Cameramakers] Re: Alphax shutter

2003-01-24 Thread John Moore
 Hi -
 
 I just bought a cheap Wollensak Alphax shutter to
 use as a mount for a pinhole/zone plate.  

snipped content

 Two Questions:
 
 1.)  What's the cheapest, easiest way to mount the
 plate?  (I'd rather save Steve Grimes for the big 
 jobs.) I assume that I want to mount my plate near
 the center to minimize vignetting, and there's a 1/4
 in. ledge around the diaphram that would allow me to

 do that with something as simple as a couple of 
 washers.  What do I use for a retaining ring? 
 
 2.) What kind of cable release does this take?  It
 has a post, but it doesn't seem to be threaded for 
 modern CR's. 
 
 thanks in advance,
 heller 
 

Heller, take a look at this page for an example of how
I used a very similar shutter for a pinhole setup:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~jlmoore/speedioscope.htm

As far as the cable release, I found one to use from
an older oscilloscope camera. In fact, that's a great
source for old shutters for just this purpose!

John Moore
Ramona, CA

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[Cameramakers] View Camera Articals...

2003-01-24 Thread John Cremati



Does anyone have the following articles from 
View Camera Magazine?
John Cremati 


"Building a Camera Bellows", Jul/Aug 1996, pp52-54
"Ground Glass Alignment", Nov/Dec 1996, pp57-59 
"Designing and Building Your Own Camera", Mar/Apr 1995, pp38-44 



Re: [Cameramakers] Graflex

2003-01-23 Thread John Yeo
When replying to this message, please remove the quarter megabyte of images.
It will make those of us on dialup much happier.

Thanks,
John
- Original Message -
From: Chuck Moulton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 3:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Graflex


Ask your friend if he wants to sell his Dumpster Graflex Camera. I need one
for PARTS.
I'm restoring one to use as a view camera and not as a press camera. I'm
even bought leather and will try replacing this skin of the camera.
I will also try replacing the spring back with a lock back so I can use a
roll film back.

I sell UV, Cir, Polarizer Filters and Close-up Lens Sets 49mm - 77mm on eBay
and would be willing to swap filters for a junker/parts Graphic Camera.


Chuck Moulton - Trader Charlie's
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
trader_charlies@cox





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Re: [Cameramakers] Early Photograpy Patent books.

2003-01-17 Thread John Cremati



The Patent books did not sell because it did not 
make the reserve price , so they are still up for grabs..  I had emailed the 
seller and asked what the minimum was .. He replied a mere $2000.00

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  John Cremati 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 6:10 
  PM
  Subject: [Cameramakers] Early Photography 
  Patent books.
  
  
  There are a very interesting set of books being 
  sold on E-bay.. It is a set of Patent books covering every aspect of early 
  photography. Only a few hours left. 
  
  
  
  
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=753635077category=14279


[Cameramakers] Early Photograpy Patent books.

2003-01-16 Thread John Cremati




There are a very interesting set of books being 
sold on E-bay.. It is a set of Patent books covering every aspect of early 
photography. Only a few hours left. 




http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=753635077category=14279


Re: [Cameramakers] Enlarger Transformers

2003-01-15 Thread John Cremati
Title: Message



To my understanding you ideally want a 
"constant voltage transformer".. I have several and they seem to 
bequite large for thier wattage output , but that would prevent any 
voltage spikes , or low voltage codition to help keep the light on a very 
level output..

How big is your enlarger?

John Cremati. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Hornford, 
  Dave 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 3:52 
  PM
  Subject: [Cameramakers] Enlarger 
  Transformers
  
  I am 
  working on building/restoring a large format enlarger and have run into a 
  question on the transformer for the light.
  
  Do I 
  need anything special? Or will any transformer of the right voltage (with 
  support for the watts) work?
  
  regards Dave
  Dave 
  Hornford"Those who say that patience is a virtue do not realize how 
  short life is."  --- Anon 



Re: [Cameramakers] Opti-Copy bad news received

2003-01-13 Thread John Cremati
  I once had a very rare  55 mm lens called a  Ultra Micro Nikor
Supposedly it had a extremely high resolution at extreme magnifications...
Unfortunately I found out that it was  same as your lens, optimized for just
one color  with little use for conventional photography It was used
in the circuit board industry..  I had immediately listed it on E-bay and
sold it but now I wish I had tried a few things first...
  Some alternative photography or silver  images may in fact be  quite
attractive with the effect this lens will create...Why don't you try a
little experimenting before throwing in the towel...


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Re: [Cameramakers] center filter

2003-01-07 Thread John Cremati
  Rather than using a silver based emulsion as the final emulsion or
film  , you could use a  glass coated with gelatin with a aniline dye (
aniline dyes are  generally transparent) , sensitize the emulsion with
ammonium dichromate .. Aniline dyes I believe is what Kodak uses in many of
their gelatin filters.. The first image would be silver based fine grained
negative film but then you would contact print the gelatin dye coating to
create the filter.. In essence what you are doing is making a carbon print
of the light fall off.
 The big problem would be to determine which dye has the neutral density
characteristics...Creating a center filter in red, yellow , orange or green
filter would probably very easy  information to come by as isochromatic
photography is based on  the various dyes ability to absorb different parts
of the spectrum of  light.., but I would not even know where to begin on
creating a neutral density dye...

Another problem would be to make the filter so the fall off is equal to that
of the lens when placed in front of it
 jc


This is an idea that has been rattling around in my imagination for
some
 time also.  I expect that it might work, with some important limitations:
 (1) Wouldn't the granularity of the filtering medium (developed silver
 grains) cause a loss of image quality, especially since the vital central
 rays are the ones which will be subject to the greatest filtration?
 (2) The ability of the filtering gradient to exactly balance the falloff
of
 the lens might be a problem, although perhaps not if you could manage to
 contain the filtering characteristic within the relatively linear portion
of
 the exposure vs. density curve.
 RKS

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Re: [Cameramakers] Spotmeter

2002-12-20 Thread John Yeo
Or, better yet, why not modify a pair of binoculars.  Have one side function
as a finder and the other as the meter.  That way, you wouldn't have to
worry about metering through a one way mirror that may affect the reading by
polarizing the light.  You could put a plane of glass at the location of a
virtual image inside the binocular lens assembly (if there is one) with a
circle on it to show the area being metered.  This is also where you would
want to put the display that gives the meter reading.  Of course the meter
would not be accurate at close ranges, but you can't expect a homebrew meter
to work just as well as a commercially made one.

John

- Original Message -
From: Frank Earl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 7:53 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Spotmeter


 Murray, I have a Cambron SP-1.  I can't find any
 patent numbers on it, but I would make one suggestion.

 The Pentax, Cambron, Minolta, etc. are all shaped like
 guns.  I start to get nervous using it sometimes,
 especially with the paranoia going around now.  There
 have been stories in the press about the police
 shooting people who have things that look like guns
 but aren't.  Make the shape like a small monocular -
 not like a gun.


  Message: 1
  From: Uptown Gallery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 21:19:02 -0500
  Subject: [Cameramakers] Spotmeter?
  Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  Hello:
 
  Sorry for duplicating a message on the pinhole list
  too, but
 
  I have an idea for a homebrew spotmeter, but want to
  read up on 'real ones'
  first.
 
  If any of you own one, I'd appreciate if you'd take
  a peek on the case and
  see if there any US Patent numbers so I can start
  reading.
 
  Thanks
 
  Murray


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Re: [Cameramakers] 4x5 enlarger

2002-12-11 Thread John
On Wed, 11 Dec 2002 15:12:24 -0600, you wrote:

  Hello.  I have a color enlarger that I dont use and was wondering about 
converting it to a 4x5 enlarger. Any one have any ideas about this?

What model is it ?
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Re: [Cameramakers] Toyo front standard adapted to 20x24

2002-12-06 Thread John Cremati



I have some monster lenses. A 42 inch Sniederer Red 
Dot Aptar will be the main lens. It is 5 inches in diameter and a Packard 
shutter will be on the back of it.. The lens board will be Ideal but I am 
worried about snapping or bending the front framework.. Thanks, John 
Cremati

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  asccex 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 6:03 
  AM
  Subject: [Cameramakers] Toyo front 
  standard adapted to 20x24 
  
  hi, ive got a 45c toyo and I wouldnt think that 
  it could cope with the force you have in mind as really it is designed for 
  small lenses and ive found the back standard droops with a reflex viewer 
  
  also the front tilt clamps arent that 
  robust
  what sort of lens are you going to 
  use
  
  regards
  Andrew 
Crump


Re: [Cameramakers] Toyo front standard adapted to 20x24

2002-12-06 Thread John Yeo
Hello John,
I have a toyo 45E (one of the cheapest monorails) and just checked it's
rigidity.

-With the front rise up and locked, it took approx. 40lbs of pressure to
push it down
-With the tilt mechanism locked, I was unable to get any play out of it, but
the standard did flex a little bit... maybe the top moved 1/16 of an inch at
the top when a reasonable ammount of pressure was applied
-I was unable to get any play in the swing or shift mechanism.
-There was a little bit of play when I tried to rotate the standard on the
rail.
-The part that clamps to the rail is made of metal
-The bellows are attached to the standards with screws
John

Overall, I think that the standard would be very suitable for your needs.
The only problem I see is centering it on the film plane.  At maximum rise,
the lens is approximately 9 above the rail, and you would need it to be 12
in the standard position, more for rise.  I imagine you could cut off the
rail clamp right below the rackpinion focusing mechanism and weld a riser
to it.  Everything appears to be made of aluminum, but I could be wrong.

I'm willing to sell mine (It has no bellows) if you are interested.  I could
just send you a standard to check out and decide if you want to buy it or
not.  Contact me off list regarding that.

John
--
http://www.enteric.org

- Original Message -
From: John Cremati [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 1:05 AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Toyo front standard adapted to 20x24




Does anyone have a Toyo 4x5 view camera that can offer a opinion on the
use of the front standard  which is to be  adapted for use on a 20x24 camera
that I am building ..
I am considering using  the  front standard off a Toyo 4x5 view camera
on this 20x24.   The Toyo's  has some huge  advantages with the removable
bellows on some models ( I would like to be able to break the camera down
for field use..) , and accessories like the large lens boards ,  compendium
lens shade are available. The front and rear standards  on Toyo's are
usually the same and I could have a back up in case the camera decides it
wants to  become a box kite and  damage should occur I do not think
I could build a front standard with full movements and precision focusing
for what I can buy a Toyo Camera for as they are basically one of the lowest
priced cameras  on the used market ... I would need one with a metal rail
clamp so that I could tig weld it to my 6 ft long  optical rail carriage..
The question I have is do you think that the standard is strong enough
to handle the weight of a 20x24 6 foot long  bellows which will collapse to
about 6 inches . and do you think it is sturdy enough to withstand
vibration movement on such a large camera or  will things lock down tightly
enough.. Do you think that there is any way to beef it up by adding a brace
or doing a little tig welding to the assembly...
 Please let me know the model you have or are referring to ...and if
this model has the metal rail clamp or is it plastic  and  the removable
bellows feature or is the bellows just screwed in..

Thanks ,
John Cremati


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Re: [Cameramakers] re: really large prints

2002-12-03 Thread John Yeo
Wouldn't that be 144 8x10 inch prints?

John
 
 It's an economic decision for me:
 One 8 x 10 ft. @ $6000ea, v. ten 8 x 10 in. @ $600ea. :-) 


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Re: [Cameramakers] WoodTablesaw

2002-12-02 Thread John Cremati
My friend researched and bought a General Table Saw.. They are quite a
precision  saw.. It is amazing how the American saws have degraded.. So much
is  made in China now with really lousy tolerances..
John Cremati



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Re: [Cameramakers] ELF cameramaker survey

2002-11-30 Thread John Cremati



Gene, 

I have a friend who is pursuing a 
similar strategy... He notified the Republican Party in Ohio that he would offer 
his services for free... All of a sudden he is taking pictures of Judges, 
Politicians, Well known wealthy contributors and party members... He attends 
fund raisers, does photos for their campaign and publicity shots..Of 
course every one gets a card and a 8x10 copy of the photo for free.. He has done 
this for several years now... Now they are calling him for their weddings, 
sportsevents, and personal stuff in which he gets what he asks... It 
is a great stratagem I think if you can afford to hold out it will pay off..He 
has created a very unique portfolio of some very wealthy, 
powerful , interesting people.. 

  John 
Cremati


Re: [Cameramakers] bellows liner sheen

2002-11-27 Thread John Y.



Where did you get the emphatex?

John
--http://www.enteric.orgPhotography Gallery 
and Camera Building

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  John Cremati 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 5:39 
  AM
  Subject: [Cameramakers] bellows liner 
  sheen
  
  Hi,
   
  I am in the process of building a 24x24 camera bellows and I found 
  this wonderful material called "Emphatex." . It is a 2 
  ply coated breathable nylon material used to make sports gear..It is 
  extremely thin , light and subtle and is almost 100 percent light tight by 
  itself,however it does pass a very little light.. ... With two 
  layers I am sure it will be completely opaque.. The question or concern 
  I have is that the material has a slight or dull sheen to it 
  and I was wondering how critical do you think it is to have a 
  liner in the bellows that is dead flat black?
   If it 
  is critical does anyone have any suggestions to dull the sheen..
   Also 
  is there any recommendations for liners that are dead flat black.. 
  
  Thanks,
  John 
Cremati


Re: [Cameramakers] 20 X 24 camera

2002-11-27 Thread John Cremati
I am finding just about everything I need at C.R Lawrence...(  A Window
Glazers Supply Chain ) and McMaster Carr...They are both a tremendous
resource  for building a Mammoth Camera
 As a example  I could not find a extruded  aluminum profile  with the
needed specs to make the dark slide Track  for a film holder  ...  The track
has to be fairly close tolerance so that no light leaks will occur... , so
all I am going to do is to couple two aluminum 1/2 inch  angles together{
using the dark slide plus a piece of  scotch  tape,  2 mill,  for expansion
as a spacer  between the two angles } and glue the angles together ... the
Profile formed will be in the shape of a  F and will be perfectly spaced
forming the dark slide track.. { There is a little more to the  process such
as first  forming two frames  out of the angle  ( one smaller than the
other ) and welding the corners   prior to gluing them together to form the
F  dark slide profile... It will be like putting two picture frames
together , one  inside the other and then gluing ...  }
I am really exited about this  new film holer design as it will allow us
to make large film holders and mammoth cameras very easily and cheap.. I
will be building the first prototype in the near future and will document
everything..
John Cremati

- Original Message -
From: ronald anger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 6:53 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] 20 X 24 camera


 Regarding your sources of supply.There's an old guy up north who makes
 roll film stereo cameras.His main source of materials is the bulk lift
 at his neighbouring aluminum storm door
 manufacturer. Of course he doesn't use a lot of material and has the go
 ahead to scrounge up what he needs.A window manufacturer might have 20 X
 24 windows or frames.
 Ciao
 Ron Anger


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[Cameramakers] bellows liner sheen

2002-11-26 Thread John Cremati



Hi,
 I 
am in the process of building a 24x24 camera bellows and I found this 
wonderful material called "Emphatex." . It is a 2 ply coated 
breathable nylon material used to make sports gear..It is extremely 
thin , light and subtle and is almost 100 percent light tight by 
itself,however it does pass a very little light.. ... With two 
layers I am sure it will be completely opaque.. The question or concern I 
have is that the material has a slight or dull sheen to it and I was 
wondering how critical do you think it is to have a liner in the 
bellows that is dead flat black?
 If it is 
critical does anyone have any suggestions to dull the sheen..
 Also is 
there any recommendations for liners that are dead flat black.. 
Thanks,
John Cremati


[Cameramakers] 20 x24 addresses

2002-11-26 Thread John Cremati



I don't know why these are breaking up in 
transmission.http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/frameGen.asp?Product=PF114BLProductID=10606Origin=http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/frameGen.asp?Product=R011G83LProductID=10454Origin=http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/frameGen.asp?Product=C988BRWProductID=10656Origin=http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/frameGen.asp?Product=A71320CProductID=3043Origin=http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/frameGen.asp?Product=FS7716CProductID=10463Origin=


[Cameramakers] ASNI Standard for 20x24 format?

2002-11-05 Thread John Cremati



Does any one know the T distance ASNI standard for 
a 20x24 film holder?


Re: [Cameramakers] aerial vs film resolution

2002-11-04 Thread John Cremati
This is very interesting.   You should post this thread to the Altternative
photo  list  (  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  )
 as well as the Carbon list(carbon(  [EMAIL PROTECTED]   )...   They
would all have a intrest in this information.. John Cremati.

John Cremati
- Original Message -
From: Robert Monaghan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 6:54 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] aerial vs film resolution


 a lot of the time, high resolution values for lenses are quoting
 aerial resolution, of the lens alone based on imaging a test chart
 and looking at the film plane with a modest power microscope. This
 is very different from on-film resolution using standard films etc.

 so a 200-250 lpmm aerial resolution would be modest; the pentax 50mm f/1.4
 lens rates circa 450 lpmm aerial res. and some of the leica summicron 50mm
 around 500-650+ lpmm, IIRC, based on Dr. Eugene Skudrzyk's tests

 see http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/limits.html#100 on 100 lpmm limits on film
 and mf/lenslpm.html on film resolution limits..

 hth bobm

 * Robert Monaghan POB752182 So. Methodist Univ., Dallas Tx 75275  *
 * Third Party 35mm Lenses: http://medfmt.8k.com/third/index.html  *
 * Medium Format Cameras: http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/index.html   *


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Re: [Cameramakers] Camera Restoration

2002-11-04 Thread John Cremati
In old painting  restoration   the art conservators  remove old varnish  I
believeby  rubbing  alcohol  with cotton Q tips  first and if that does
not work they will try denatured alcohol second  which is a little stronger
and if that does not work they will use acetone as a last resort   .. They
would always make their test on a part of the painting that could not be
seen John Cremati


- Original Message -
From: Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 1:42 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Camera Restoration


 This may be old hat to some on the NG, but I am going to pass it along.
 I had been restoring a Gundlatch-Manhattan 4x5 view camera. The leather
 was a total loss so I carefully removed it with a sparse wet-down of hot
 water. Unfortunately, some of the water leaked into the camera interior
 and produced a white bloom on the camera interior's pristine cherry
 finish. Much reading indicated that the cherry interior was now a total
 mess and I would have to strip and re-finish it. I put the camera away
 for a year as other things had priority.

 Last night, I pulled the Gundlatch out and took another look at it - the
 white bloom was still there. I have (over the years) used common brake
 fluid as a solvent and wondered if the brake fluid would dissolve the
 old varnish in a minimum impact way. Brake fluid was carefully applied
 with a piece of surgical gauze over the cherry interior, let stand for
 several minutes, then wiped off with a larger piece of lint-free cloth.

 To my complete surprise, the white bloom was gone and the cherry
 finish was intact! A bit of furniture polish and I was home free.

 If you are going to try this method of restoration, use common sense.
 I am guarantee-ing nothing, and you are on your own. Have your attorney
 bother someone else.

 Regards,

 Marv
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[Cameramakers] Cordura 330 D characteristics.

2002-10-28 Thread John Cremati



Hi all, 
I received the 330d Cordura nylon cloth today and 
unfortunately I think it is to heavy for bellows material.. It is about the 
weight and thickness of a cotton artist canvas ( not burlap), 
or back pack material, or camera bag material 
I do not even think it would make a good dark cloth as it is kind 
ofstiff. It still may end up as a 
darkclothas I will need a 9 foot long and 5 foot wide to surround 
the 26x26 inch back... . 
 I had purchased it thru a 
E-bay dealer in which the ad read that it was much lighter than the 500 or 1000 
denier and the price was so cheap I felt it was well worth a gamble... It 
would make for a great equipment bags, or upholstery cover as it is tuff tuff 
stuff.. I am going to try the 160 D now and hopefully that will do the 
trick..The 160 is supposedly the material used inlight weight swim 
wear...I will keep you posted.. 
John Cremati. 


[Cameramakers] Bellows: glue

2002-10-26 Thread John Cremati
Michael wrote:

 The answers to these two questions should be decided together -- you want
to
 select a glue that will work with the cloth and stiffener material that
you are
 using.   My guess is that if you use estar-based graphic film, which is
 essentially polyester plastic with gelatin coating, that you will have
 difficulty finding a suitable glue.  The glue needs to stick but also
maintain
 some flexibility over the lifetime of the bellows.   I think that white
glue is
 usually used for bellows, which makes sense because it retains some
flexibility.
 But white glue will probably stick poorly to the film.  Unless you see a
 compelling advantage to using the film for the stiffeners, it might be
wiser to
 stick to the traditional and time-proven materials.   If you think that
there
 might be some significant advantage to a new material, it would be a good
idea
 to make a sample layer of the materials and flex it every day for several
months
 as a test.

John Cremati replied:
  I have used white glue to try to rebind some of my books and it does
work very well on cloth and paper...  but I am dead set on using the Cordura
nylon as the outer layer on the bellows. I would have my doubts that the
white glue would adhere permanently to these materials... I would have more
faith in  contact cement  ... .. It would be nice if I could find something
that would allow a little time to position the two assembles, and adheres to
these materials, and is sprayable
 I imagine in the old days they would have  used animal hide glue or
fish glue  and called it a day.   That was  about their only option...I
will take your suggestion though and give what ever glue I find  a  test .
Regards,
John Cremati


...



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Re: [Cameramakers] Bellows: more questions

2002-10-26 Thread John Yeo



Where did you get the cordura?

John


  
  
  1) We are using two pieces of 60 inch 
  wide of a light weight black 330d Cordura cloth 
  whichwill have to be joined together to form the 20x24 
  parameter. Would you sew and glue them together or just clamp and 
  glue?
  


[Cameramakers] Bellows: glue

2002-10-26 Thread John Cremati
 Reply by John Cremati
I think that they make a special  thinner for contact cement that does
not affect the tack qualities.Probably  Two very thin coats by spraying
would be ideal.. The Cordura I have coming has  supposedly a light  kiss
coat of urethane on one side..   which may help in the coating process by
not allowing the adhesive to soak  deeply into the fabric.  I am worried
that the 330D may be too thick, even though is has a low denier number
compared to the 500D  or  the 1000D denier which is like a canvas
   I had recently found out that a  even lower number of 160D is used to
make light weight swim wear  which will collapse into one of its own
pockets..., so I may have messed up and maybe should have gotten the 160D.
.. I will test it to see how it absorbs the adhesive and how well it may
work on a large bellows where a little stiffness may be desirable...I will
post the specifics of where I got it and its qualities once it arrives next
week...
Regards,
John Cremati.
- Original Message -
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2002 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Bellows: glue


 John,

 I bought contact cement in a quart can from Home depot.  I found there was
a
 layer of separated liquid on the top that is perfect when I need to
apply
 really thin coats.




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Re: [Cameramakers] filmholders

2002-10-26 Thread John Yeo
Why does it matter?  As long as it fits your camera, it should be fine.  
John

- Original Message - 
From: Uptown Gallery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2002 11:38 AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] filmholders


 This has probably been asked before...
 
 Does anyone have external dimensions for 11x14 and 16x20 film holders?
 
 I have 4x5 5x7 and 8x10 I can measure.
 
 Thank you.
 
 Murray
 
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[Cameramakers] Bellows : Fold and ideal length question...

2002-10-24 Thread John Cremati
 I am trying to build a  homemade camera bellows for a 20x24 camera  and
have several specific questions. .
1) What is the ideal fold  width or pleat depth for such a large bellows.).
2) What would be the ideal length on such a bellows using various process
camera lenses( 270 , 360,450, 600mm  and a   42 inch lens and having  some
macro capability.


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[Cameramakers] Bellows: more questions

2002-10-24 Thread John Cremati





Hi, 

I would like to thank Sandy King for 
the valuable information he has sent... It was extremely helpful 
,Thank you... 
I have a few other questions on this 20x24 inch 
bellowsfor anyone who is able to answer or give opinions


1) We are using two pieces of 60 inch 
wide of a light weight black 330d Cordura cloth 
whichwill have to be joined together to form the 20x24 
parameter. Would you sew and glue them together or just clamp and 
glue?
2) We will be using very heavy 
exposedand fixed out graphic film( estar based )for the 
stiffeners that is.007(7 mill) in thickness... Has anyone ever 
used this as a stiffener material or are we making a mistake and should 
stick to a heavy card stock?
3) What type of glue do you think would be 
best using Cordura( a nylon) and estar film mix that would 
notadd muchbulk and would remain 
flexible.?
4)Would you 
recommend building and using a form for such a large 
bellows?
5 ) Would you coat the outside or inside of the 
finished bellows with some sort of rubberized black out paint?

Once we finally begin to make this camera we 
will document every thing and make it available to all.. 
Thanks, 
John Cremati


[Cameramakers] Re: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #518 - 7 msgs

2002-10-19 Thread John Vitollo

 Can anyone refer me to info online to help me understand the Zone system?
 I'm not ready to buy a book yet.
 Murray


Here's a great site:

http://www.cicada.com/pub/photo/zs/

Best,

John V

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Re: [Cameramakers] Walzburg Horizontal camera, Free !!!

2002-10-17 Thread John Cremati
Just curious, How big is the film size? Whould you be interested in selling
the lith film sep..?
- Original Message -
From: Beau Schwarz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 9:37 AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Walzburg Horizontal camera, Free !!!


Hi,
I have a Walzburg Horizontal camera. It has a 16' bed, 12' bellows, elect.
Packard shutter, remote powered rise/fall/shift, rotating lens turret,
Front/back lit remote operated movable stage, several boxes of outdated lith
film, but no lens. I picked it up on ebay about 2 years ago and it was fully
operational. We disassembled it and put it into storage. Unfortunatly, I
have changed directions, so it has sat, and  I now need to get rid of it.

I live near LaGrange TX,78954. It is free to a good home (just so long as
you take all of it).  If you are interested, please contact me at
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or (979) 249-3060 between 7-10 pm central time



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[Cameramakers] Cordura Denier Termanology.

2002-10-16 Thread John Cremati

This is a explanation of Denier rating  from http://www.rockywoods.com/
that John Yeo had posted...concerning Cordura availability...




Nylons
We carry a wide selection of nylon fabrics from a variety of manufacturers.
All nylon fabrics have a denier rating. This refers to the thickness of a
thread or yarn used in the fabric. Generally the higher the denier, the
heavier and tougher the fabric. We carry nylon fabrics from the lightweight
with a denier rating of 70 to the heaviest available, Ballistics, which is
made from 1050 denier yarn.
Ballistics is the heaviest nylon material made. Use it for chaps, luggage or
in other places where strength is more important than weight or flexibility.

John Cremati


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Re: [Cameramakers] Bellows Material Cordura

2002-10-15 Thread John Cremati

Hi Wayde,
 I had a couple of questions on the camera that you built...


Do you remember what type of Cordura that you
used?  Did you use it for both inside and outside .Is your bellows very
stiff?   how deep were the folds ?/How does it collapse   and what did you
use for stiffners...


Below is a list
from the Cordura web site.  I would imagine that some of the cordura is a
little to bulky for camera use... the CORDURA® Plus 160-68-T440 looks like
their lightest , but it is a blend . You can see all the descriptions on
their web site... Evidently you can get samples...
Thanks,
John Cremati.


This section provides the fiber and fabric options in the CORDURA® product
line, including our three latest products-CORDURA® Plus NaturalT, CORDURA®
Plus ColorLockT and CORDURA® Plus CatT. No matter what products you're
creating, you can count on CORDURA® to make them durable and keep your
customers satisfied.
For fabric samples, see the suppliers list.
Fiber Options-North America

CORDURA® 1000-140-T440
CORDURA® Plus 1000-280-T440
CORDURA® Plus 500-140-T440
CORDURA® Plus 330-122-T440
CORDURA® Plus 160-68-T440
CORDURA® Plus 2000-560-T440
CORDURA® Plus 1350-560-T440
CORDURA® Plus NaturalTM (1000- and 500-deniers)
CORDURA® Plus CatTM (1000- and 500-deniers)
CORDURA® Plus ColorLockTM (1000- and 500-deniers)

Blends (all with 330-denier CORDURA® Plus):
CORDURA® Plus/acrylic
CORDURA® Plus/Lycra® brand spandex
CORDURA® Plus/Supplex® nylon
CORDURA® Plus/Taslan® nylon


From: J. Wayde Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Bellows Material Cordura


 On Sun, 13 Oct 2002, John Cremati wrote:

  Has anyone tried using Cordura Nylon as the outer layer in bellows
  fabrication ?  It is supposedly the toughest fabric on earth and is
  water proof...( they are using it to make Fishing Waders...)  The
  deener 160 blend seems to be there thinnest material as they are using
  it for clothing. http://www.cordura.com/ Any suggestions?

 Yes, works like a charm http://rmp.opusis.com/cameras/my4x5_2.jpg!

 - Wayde
   ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

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Re: [Cameramakers] Bellows Material Cordura

2002-10-15 Thread John Yeo

Only three of the suppliers had websites, and one link didn't work.  The
other two didn't appear to sell to consumers.  I was only able to find one
website, http://www.rockywoods.com/, selling the material to consumers, and
they only had 400 and 1000 denier thicknesses.  The 400 denier was only $10
a yard, but they do not have online ordering, so will you have to call or
fax them.
John


 Below is a list
 from the Cordura web site.  I would imagine that some of the cordura is a
 little to bulky for camera use... the CORDURA® Plus 160-68-T440 looks like
 their lightest , but it is a blend . You can see all the descriptions on
 their web site... Evidently you can get samples...
 Thanks,
 John Cremati.


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Re: [Cameramakers] cordura bellows

2002-10-13 Thread John Cremati


Jahn F. Baker wrote:

 John,

 Yes! Just finished a bellows for an old Seneca 8x10. Picked up the
 Cordura Nylon at a Mill Ends retailer. The fabric itself was almost
 perfectly light tight before lining with cotton duck. Bellows functions
 like a dream! Used Barge Cement to glue the watercolor paper stiffeners
 in place as well as the lining.

 Jahn F. Baker
Hi Jahn,
This is very good news... Do you remember what type of Cordura that you
used? Is your bellows very stiff?  How does it collapse   Below is a list
from the Cordura web site.  I would imagine that some of the cordura is a
little to bulky for camera use... the CORDURA® Plus 160-68-T440 looks like
their lightest , but it is a blend . You can see all the descriptions on
their web site... Evidently you can get samples...
Thanks,
John Cremati.


This section provides the fiber and fabric options in the CORDURA® product
line, including our three latest products-CORDURA® Plus NaturalT, CORDURA®
Plus ColorLockT and CORDURA® Plus CatT. No matter what products you're
creating, you can count on CORDURA® to make them durable and keep your
customers satisfied.
For fabric samples, see the suppliers list.
Fiber Options-North America

CORDURA® 1000-140-T440
CORDURA® Plus 1000-280-T440
CORDURA® Plus 500-140-T440
CORDURA® Plus 330-122-T440
CORDURA® Plus 160-68-T440
CORDURA® Plus 2000-560-T440
CORDURA® Plus 1350-560-T440
CORDURA® Plus NaturalTM (1000- and 500-deniers)
CORDURA® Plus CatTM (1000- and 500-deniers)
CORDURA® Plus ColorLockTM (1000- and 500-deniers)

Blends (all with 330-denier CORDURA® Plus):
CORDURA® Plus/acrylic
CORDURA® Plus/Lycra® brand spandex
CORDURA® Plus/Supplex® nylon
CORDURA® Plus/Taslan® nylon

- Original Message -
From: jahn baker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 11:34 AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] cordura bellows



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[Cameramakers] Bellows Material Cordura

2002-10-13 Thread John Cremati



Has anyone tried using CorduraNylon as 
the outer layer in bellows fabrication ? It is supposedly the toughest 
fabric on earth and is water proof...( they are using it to make Fishing 
Waders...) The deener 160 blend seems to be there thinnest material 
as they are using it for clothing. http://www.cordura.com/ Any 
suggestions?

John Cremati


[Cameramakers] Re: Re: LED Enlarger

2002-10-05 Thread john frost

Have you seen this LED light source for enlargers??


http://www.trailing-edge.com/~shoppa/led.html

john (:))

 
 Message: 2
 Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 07:41:01 +0100
 From: Huw Finney [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: cameramakers [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [Cameramakers] Re: LED Enlarger
 Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 Ah,
 
 All depends on the size of your condensers, I am presently building a
 5x4 using the same head and a pair of old Bessler condensers.  It will
 be on the site soon.
 
 Colour would be a good application of this method, because of the
 spectrum of a tungsten lamp (colour paper is approx. balanced for
 tungsten) I would suggest 2 reds one green and one blue led.  The UK
 supplier of these leds has a minimum order of UKP100, perhaps it's
 USD100??.  For more light look at their 5W leds!
 
 Huw
 
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[Cameramakers] film holders

2002-10-03 Thread John Cremati

I was just curious how many have attempted to make their own film holders
and if they feel if it was worth the effort . I am beginning to  fully
realize just how   extremely  precision  these film holders have to be
John Cremati


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[Cameramakers] New Magnetic Film holder design

2002-10-01 Thread John Cremati




Hi ,
 I had weighed 
the 1/8 inch thick x 1 inch wide high energy magnetic tape and it 
will add approximately 1 3/4 pounds to each 20x24 
holder. Add this to the thin steel shims that would have to be 
used complete the magnetic function, and the epoxy glue , I am 
sure It will be over 2 pounds per holder Also add the 2 
inch additional camera back andholder size (in each dimension ) to 
accommodate the tape is also additional weight...I am also not 100 percent 
convinced if the magnetic attraction will be enough to hold the twofilm 
holder sections together when removing the 
darkslideect... Any feelings or suggestions on 
this?

I like the idea of a 
twopiece film holder for ease inloading and unloading. 
Maybe some sort of a pinned or clamped compression style 
frame should be considered. 
 John Cremati 



Re: [Cameramakers] New Magnetic Film holder design

2002-10-01 Thread John Cremati



 That is a great 
Idea.. It would cut down on the weight and would possibly be a 
stronger connection. They could be machine fitted 
flush at the edge of the film where it would not increase the frame size very 
much.. a 1/4 inch steel strip would only be required instead of a 1 
inch...I will seriously consider 
it...
 Thanks, John 
Cremati.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Gene Johnson 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 9:18 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] New Magnetic 
  Film holder design
  
  I've seen some really strong and tiny rare earth 
  magnets. Like the size of a pencil eraser or smaller. A few of 
  those set into your frame might get it done.
  
  Gene
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
John 
Cremati 
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 4:36 
AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] New Magnetic 
Film holder design


Hi ,
 I had 
weighed the 1/8 inch thick x 1 inch wide high energy magnetic 
tape and it will add approximately 1 3/4 pounds to each 20x24 
holder. Add this to the thin steel shims that would have 
to be used complete the magnetic function, and the epoxy 
glue , I am sure It will be over 2 pounds per holder 
Also add the 2 inch additional camera back andholder size (in 
each dimension ) to accommodate the tape is also additional weight...I am 
also not 100 percent convinced if the magnetic attraction will be enough to 
hold the twofilm holder sections together when 
removing the darkslideect... Any feelings or suggestions 
on this?

I like the idea 
of a twopiece film holder for ease inloading and 
unloading. Maybe some sort of a pinned or clamped 
compression style frame should be considered. 
 John Cremati 
  


[Cameramakers] Jouney to the Dark Slide.

2002-09-29 Thread John Cremati



 I found this material in 
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog 
that looks like it may possibly be the material that is used in 
commercial film holdersfor dark slides. It is called 
garolite grade xx ( type that into its search engine). It is a paper 
based phenolic laminate, available in opaque black

 It is 
available from extremely thin to very thick (1/32 , 1/16, 1/8, up to to 1 
1/2 inches ). It is a solid paper material impregnated with a 
synthetic resin formed under pressure and heat..It has high dielectric and 
impact strength and tensile strength and is resistant to heat, moisture, 
chemicals , oil , corrosive solutions and just about everything else It is 
also very light weight, , dimensionally stable and easy to machineplastic 
resin material that is mixed with paper and forms a very rigid high impact 
material available in opaque black it is also very light...And is very 
cheap. 
 A 36" x 24 
inch sheet in 1/16 inch is $10.00!.
There are other more expensive versions of this 
material that are different colors and use cotton or fiberglass with the 
resin It is used for circuit boards ect...

Does anyone have any experience in using this 
material for dark slides
John Cremati...


[Cameramakers] Journey to the Dark Slide

2002-09-29 Thread John Cremati



Alan Zinn wrote:

 John,  I wonder if there is a sample kit available? 
I'd like to try some of the tubing for rollers, etc.  
AZ  Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. http://www.panoramacamera.us 
 or keyword.com 
lookaround 

John Cremati wrote..Alan, 
 There is a huge number of 
rods, tubes, ect made of various materials including the Garolite.of 
everything to bronze to oil impregnated polyester tubing that McMaster 
Carr handles.. You may want to order their catalog. John 
Cremati


[Cameramakers] New film holder design 20x24

2002-09-28 Thread John Cremati




Hello everybody...
 As you know with the 
threads on " Journey to the Dark Slide , I am in the process of trying to 
build aLight weight 20x24 mammoth camera...With the extreme expense 
of the film holders I hope to build my own... I will base the 
cameraback design on the film holder soanyASNI standards 
are not critical to me.I have been trying to work out a simple 
new film holder design to make these 20x24 film holders cheaply 
Hopefully we can brainstorm this and come up with holder that is very easy to 
build using mostly over the counter materials with as little machining and 
expense as possible...There is not much new under the 
sun so I do not know if this sort of holder is already being made and it 
may not be a new design after all

  The design I came upwith was 
inspired by Sandy Kings threads on magnetic emulsion coating 
masksforcarbon printing
 I am only thinking of a single film 
holder at this time to keep things simple .. The film 
holderwould be based on a two part holder with one part having 
magnetic tape epoxied to one of its surfaces...This system 
wouldmagnetically sandwich the filmSome big 
advantages of a two part magnetic holder would be that it would keep film 
very flat and be very easy to load and unload with out damage to the 
film.. 

I would like to keep the weight down as well as the thickness...Any 
Comments or suggestions on materials with sources , design , 
potential problems or concerns ? Please keep in mind this is for a 20x24 
camera

The film holder should have 
have a thin steel sheet metal plate back or strip framed flush 
with some sort of aluminum h-channelprevent light leaks 
This is what the film will rest against... The front part of the carrier 
frame , which will include the dark slide, will have the magnetic tape 
glued to it. . This will attach to the back sandwiching the film magnetically... 
I suppose some sort of clip or clamp two part holder system would work equally 
as well..Any suggestions would be most appreciated.. I hope this will do 
and it shows up as I had laid it out .. I do not have a scanner... 
___ 
___I__I__I__I 
... 20 x 24 steel sheet metal framed with 
some sort of aluminum 
h-channelII

 
_ . film


 
-- 
... frame with high energy magnetic tape epoxy to it . 
It will compress against the film 
I_____I. 
This assembly will also form a subframe for the dark slide 
{Front part of 
filmcarrier} 
( dark slide =); ( --- = magnetic tape framed )

Some of these design parameters would also make 
good negative film carriers for enlargers as well as printing 
frames...
Regards, 
John Cremati


Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-27 Thread John Cremati



 John Cremati wrote: I have my doubts that these 
thicknesses will work in a 20x24 inch format.. If a thin aluminum 
sheet is used in the mammoth sizes it will have to be made 
of highly tempered aluminum alloy and very 
ridged.. In the book "Primitive Photography " A guide to making 
Cameras , Lenses and Calotypes, they specify 1/8 inch thick luan as dark 
slide material for just a 8x10 format..
 Is there anyone on the list that has 
experience in such large formats as the 20x24 ? - Original Message 
- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 9:52 AM Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] 
Journey to the dark slideI measured the dark 
slides on one Fidelity holder and also one Lisco holder  
last night.   They are both between 0.0325 and 
0.330. So one should be safe using  commercial 1/32" 
sheet. The second problem, of course, will be to get it  
cleanly cut to shape...   I would suggest that a "paint" 
or "epoxy" type coating would be a difficult  idea -- any 
such coating will be at least few thou thick and will make the  
resulting slide far too thick to work smoothly.   
Someone asked about a source for cold-anodizing chemistry: It's made by 
 Birchwood-Casey and is called "Aluminum Black". It is available 
from Fargo at  www.micro-tools.com, and also from some of 
the major industrial tool  companies, such as www.reidtool.com.   
Other versions of the product are also available for ferrous metals and 
brass.   Don Feinberg  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 



[Cameramakers] Journey to the Dark Slide 20x24

2002-09-27 Thread John Cremati



Hi William,  I agree with 
you... I think just making your own holders and non standard back is 
the way to go ..Then design the back to the holder...
The thicker holder has a big advantage of being 
more durable but the big disadvantage is the possibility of a light 
leak...
I plan to use a dual light stop made from spring 
bronze or spring stainless steel weather stripping.. It is a V shaped strip that 
is very cheap available at McMaster Carr..Unfortunately it is 1 inch in 
width but on 20x24 holders, what's another couple of inches... . 
 I had taken apart a graplex holder 
and found they use sort of a bronze spring "v" strip with 
fingers cut about every 1/8 inch. The assemble is then covered 
in a felt cloth..With the bronze V weather stripping these fingers could be 
easily cut on a fine toothed table saw with a simple 
jig.. 
 As another idea how about making 
the holders and back 24x24 inches so that the film could be 
placed in any position with out having to position the camera on its side... 
I do not know how this could be accomplished yet but it is just a idea... 
I plan on making the ground glass back with out a spring 
system and the ground glass removed then holder will just lock into 
the back in its place . I think this will simplify things and prevent any 
possible light leaks while trying to maneuver such a large dark slide and heavy 
holder.. This is the site for Spring Metal weather 
stripping... ... I plan to cover it with some sort ofpolyester felt 
...Any Comments on using this material?Look up number: 
1115a2
http://www.mcmaster.com/


John 
Cremati--William 
Nettles wrote: Darkslide material is part of the reason 
I would construct a non-standardfilm holder and matching ground glass. If 
you could have thicker (deeper?)holders than your darkslide material could 
be thicker. Even sealed masonitewould work. It would also take more bumping 
without marring the film surfacethan would something thin.A thicker 
slide of course raises the light trap question. Make the lighttrap longer 
and make the darkslide non-removable so you never have toworryabout the 
gap.Formica's other big problem is it is brittle. But then so are some 
of mycirca 1980 4x5  8x10 commercially made darkslides.Also to 
save on anodizing the aluminum, I often use flat black high heatpaint. It 
dries quick, its thin, its matte black and you can quickly repairany 
scratches with another spray.Will---William Nettles 



Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-27 Thread John Cremati

 Hi Alan,

 I think your right about the possibility of  wood warpage on such large
holders... I intend to try to make them out of alllnneeyyummm... You can
epoxy aluminum together with rivets... You can also silver solder it..  I
have a tig welder so I may risk the chance  of  heat warpage and try to weld
it in key stress areas
If I was looking at this material called  Sintra with out knowing the
name of it , I would call it black foam core... We are probably talking
about the same thing It is actually a expanded PVC product and is
reasonably stiff  ( not as stiff as I would like though for 1/8 inch
thick..) and extremely light weight.. It seems pretty durable as wellI
am going to get a 20x24 x 1/8 piece this weekend and give it a light fast
test in the sun with some film underneath The best part about it is it
is cheap I think a 4 foot by 8 foot sheet is about $35 . If I am
layering 1/8 x 1 1/2   aluminum strips to form the framework for the dark
slide the edges of the black foam core  are easily sanded to fit.
John Cremati.
- Original Message -
From: Alan Zinn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide


 At 02:33 PM 9/27/2002 -0400, you wrote:
 
  John Cremati wrote:
  I  have my doubts that these thicknesses will work in a 20x24 inch
format..
  If a thin  aluminum sheet is used  in the mammoth sizes it will have to
be
  made of  highly tempered  aluminum  alloy and  very ridged..  In the
book
  Primitive Photography  A guide to making Cameras , Lenses and
Calotypes,
  they specify 1/8 inch thick luan as dark slide material for just a 8x10
  format..
Is there anyone on the list that has experience in such large
 formats as the 20x24 ?

 Guys,
 RE the relative hugeness of 24 in. sq. film, I now believe thinking in
terms
 of conventional dark slide materialis is probably wrong. Using luan may be
a
 very good idea. Also think about black foam core. It is terrific for
 experimental camera bodies.  A stack of large film holders would weigh
quite
 a bit. Also There should be a container that will hold them flat - like a
an
 old wood tennis racket clamp.

 AZ
 Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
 http://www.panoramacamera.us
  or
 keyword.com lookaround


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Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-26 Thread John Cremati

Allen Zinn wrote :
From: Alan Zinn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide


 John,

 Don't use Formica it warps like crazy with humidity changes.
 AZ
 Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
 http://www.panoramacamera.us
  or
 keyword.com lookaround


Repy by John Cremati:

Hi Allen,
Are you talking of the  separate thin Formica sheet ( Formica  which you
would glue to a wood counter top) or Formica  which  has been already  glued
to a  particle board?  I know that the Formica which is glued to particle
board warps like crazy if not treated on both sides of the particle board...
I was not aware that Formica by itself will warp as  I though it was some
sort of resin based materialJohn Cremati


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Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-26 Thread John Cremati

Does any one know what material that conventional  dark slides are made of
used by  currently mass produced film holders ?

John Cremati


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[Cameramakers] Journey to the Dark Slide.. The age of Alllooonnneyymmmm..

2002-09-26 Thread John Cremati



 
Lets see, ..there was the Stone Age, and then there was the Bronze age 
and then there was the Iron age and now there is the Auueeeyyymmm 
age! So far it looks like every one likes arrmmmnnimmm 
.
 In 
Akron, Ohio there is a Aluminum distributor called the Aluminum Warhouse, 
that sells at a $15 minimum... He claimed that he carried a lot 
of different high tempered alluneeey sheet and extrusions but 
his smallest gauge is 18 which is about a touch under 1/16 of a inch ( 16 guage 
equals 1/16 ) . I intend to make the rest if the film holder out 
of allummmeeum so I guess I will go check it out... I believe he will 
give cut sizes as well for a small fee... I do 
not see anything wrong with painting it with flat black epoxy paint 
although black anodizing would be the schnitz..
 I 
have access to a lot of printers plates that are made of aluminum and it 
is very thin.. I don't knowthat it would make a good dark 
slide though as it is very thin and bends rather easily ..Any Printer 
has this stuff in abundance and they scrap most of it after their print job is 
thru...
 This 
Sintra expanded pvc is still worth looking at as well . It may be a 
little thick at about 1/8 inch but is very light weight... I think i will 
take a piece of sheet film and stick it out in the sun for a while 
withSinra covering it and give it a light leak test 

Regards , 
John Cremati


[Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-24 Thread John Cremati

Hello out there...
I am in the process of trying to build a  light weight 20x24 camera
along with  12 single  film carriers.. The initial stage is to build the
film carriers so that the ground glass can be positioned accurately.. I have
a idea for a  New  design  for the film carrier  which I will share with
everyone in the near future  . It is amazingly simple {if it works},  will
be cheap to build  and will have several serious  advantages over a
conventional film carriers.  I am still trying to figure things out at this
point..  There seems to be nothing new under the sun so maybe this   will
end up  not being   a fresh idea after all...
 I intend to make the film carriers and camera  out of
Alloonneeyyuumm

 My biggest obstacle at this moment  is that I am  hung up on the
design of the light trap for the dark slideAt $10 per sheet of film I
would like to come up with a fool proof design..

Are there any publications on making  film carriers?

Presently  I am  also  trying to decide on the material used for the dark
slide( I was thinking of using  either black Formica or black rigid 
Sintra  which is a expanded PVC product.. see below ) Does any one have any
other suggestions  as far as  dark slide material  or experience with this
Sintra? . I believe it is also manufactured under the name Komatex, and
Celtec... This material is very light and seems to be quite durable..

Sintra : ( written by a distributor)
Sintra is a closed-cell, expanded plastic that has high strength-to-weight
ratio for superior workability. The material is so easy to work with, you
can build your displays, exhibits, and signage in half the time. That means
half the labor and fabrication costs.
Sintra material is made to stay flat. But it has the formability to take on
any design. And its edges cut clean with uniform color throughout. No
fraying or unattractive inner core. Plus sintra is tough enough to be used
over and over again. So you can use your display, exhibit or sign year after
year.
This material can be fabricated using conventional wood tools. Saw it. Drill
it. Glue it. Die cut it. Nail it. Silk screen it. Truly a versatile material
for state-of-the-art displays, exhibits and signs. Plus it;s a UL-recognized
component with a 94VO fire rating for low flame spread.
Available in White, Black, and colors and  comes in very thin 1/16 inch  to
over 3/4 inch in thick...
Regards,
 John Cremati


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[Cameramakers] Re: CHEAP BALL SOCKET?? (filmpro)

2002-09-20 Thread john frost

I made my stands from 2 inch pvc pipe. Three 90 degree elbows for feet,
two t fitting for the base. one for the three legs, one for the
vertical pipe.
john (:)
-
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 19:41:13 -0700
From: filmpro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Cameramakers] CHEAP BALL SOCKET??
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi!

I'm building some flourescent lighting like kino Flo. I'm trying to 
figure an inexpensive way to connect the light unit, to a repurposed 
broken tripod (no head).

A ball socket which could be locked at a specific angle would be great. 
So, where can i find such a thing cheaply. Or even make one. I will need 
6-8 so price does become a factor.

Also, Any ideas on cheap light stands? Need to be transportable.

luckily I kept this broken tripod:-)

Mac
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Re: [Cameramakers] Computar Question Reply

2002-09-13 Thread John Cremati



Hi Richard, 
Are the Computars APO designed? Do all 
the Chromatic abberations meet relativley close?Thanks, John 
Cremati

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Richard 
  Palmer 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 10:38 
  PM
  Subject: [Cameramakers] Computar Question 
  Reply
  
   This is a reply to Mr. 
  John Cremati's question
   concerning 
  the information in my Computar brochure.
   Every lens shown has a 
  detailed cross section drawing
   showing a six element 
  design. All the pertinent info
   such as back focus, 
  angular field, color correction
   and physical demensions 
  are listed. Graphs and charts
  concerning 
  spectral transmission, 30 cycle focus and
   OTF at f/5.6 at 
  different magnifications are displayed.
   I didn't see lines per 
  mm stated though. All other 
   specs. like chromatic 
  aberrations are shown and 
   explaned. Actually, a 
  lot more info. than the average
   consumer would need. 
  The photo writer, Dave Howard 
   had a story about them 
  in Shutterbug a while back, I
   believe.
  
  


Re: [Cameramakers] front mounted shutters.

2002-09-08 Thread John Cremati



 This looks 
like a serious case of lens ecstasy! Have you embarked on the filter 
questyet?...
 The real 
sleepers are the "Computars" which were a 1970 to 1980 vintage 
computer designed lens , multicoated with 6 to 8 elements.These supposedly 
have a 320 lines per inch resolution according to several sources although 
some sources say differently...I have a set for the 
enlarger up to 150mm and one 270mm for a 8x10..
 Most 
Process lenses are a 4 element lens but are tack sharp flat field lens corrected 
for color abnormities...The longer focal lengths make great telephoto lenses but 
are slow...
I am in need of a Ilex # 5 shutter for a 42 
inch focal length SchneiderRed dot Altarthat I have... 

John Cremati..- 

  - Original Message
  
  
  
  From: 
  Gene Johnson 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 6:07 
  PM
  Subject: [Cameramakers] front mounted 
  shutters.
  
  Hello Cameramakers,
  
  I just bought 3 Konica Hexanon GrII process 
  lenses in 150, 210, and 300mm focal lengths. I was able to mount the 
  300mm on my Horseman with a Packard shutter (with flash synch) this works 
  really well. I was also able to use the 210mm by mounting an Ilex #3 in 
  front of it. I still have tons of movement available. The 150 I 
  haven't got to yet, but I'll probably mount it in front of another Ilex 
  #3. I have about250 bucks in all three lenses and 2 shutters, and 
  I'm just thrilled with the performance. Now that I have mine, I thought 
  I'd share my joy with you all. These are FINE lenses. Very sharp 
  from very close to infinity. They show up on eBay from time to time, along 
  with a ton of other similar process lenses from Rodenstock, Schneider, Kodak, 
  Nikkor, JML, Ilex, Eskafot, and many others. Hey, every once in a while, 
  something works out.
  
  Gene


Re: [Cameramakers] 8x10 camera

2002-09-07 Thread John Yeo

Phil,
Looks like a great camera, but 21 lbs!  Get that thing on a diet!  You could
probably remove a lot of material with a drill and jigsaw, without
sacrificing stability.  Why do you have the back of the base sticking out
behind the rear standard?  It seems like that is just dead weight.  You
could also probably cut out the center of the base pieces like on my camera
(http://www.enteric.org/810/) to reduce weight without losing stability.
Overall, it looks like a great camera.  I like the mechanism to lock down
the front standard, and might steal it for my next camera.

John
- Original Message -
From: PhilSan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 7:26 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] 8x10 camera


 I have finally finished converting my 8x10 camera from a monorail to a
 flatbed design. The conversion serves several purposes, to make the
 camera more stable and to make it a little more portable. I hope to take
 what I have learned by doing this and make a folding 8x10 camera for my
 next project.

 While I was at it I made a box to transport the camera. The camera
 weighs in at 21 pounds, the box is another 6 pounds.
 I have posted a page of pictures of the contruction on my website.
 http://www.philsan.com/8x10pics.htm

 Philip J. McCourt


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Re: [Cameramakers] Helical Mount

2002-09-03 Thread John Yeo

The Kodak Duex camera has a helical device to extend the lens.  On that
particular camera, it is not used for focusing, just to extend the lens to a
hyperfocal distance, and bring the lens into the body for storage.  The tube
that has helical threads is about 30mm long, and about 40mm in diameter on
the inside.

Because your lens is so short and has a small aperture wide open, I would
place it at a hyperfocal distance, and not worry about focusing.  Also,
because the lens is so wide, I think that the helical barrel would impede
with the lens's coverage, unless you got a really wide helical focusing
device or cut down the Duex one.

John


- Original Message -
From: david hajjab [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 9:33 AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Helical Mount


 I am making a 6x12 Medium formar camera and I would
 like to use an old 47 f.8 super angulon that I have.
 I would prefer a helical mount over a bellows.  Does
 anyone know where I could find one?
 David

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Re: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger

2002-08-31 Thread John Fisher

can you put on the list.that every could down  load it.


From: Joe Portale [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 14:21:31 -0700

I would bery interested in receiving a copy of that article.

Thanks very much

Joe Portale
Tucson, AZ

  www.martintrucco.com.ar
  - Original Message -
  From: JIM KETCHESON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Jueves, 29 de Agosto de 2002 12:38 p.m.
  Subject: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger
 
 
  
  
   I have found in a 1953 Popular Science a very short article on making 
a
   cold light enlarger using a circular fluorescent lamp. Claims coverage
   of a 2-3/4 x 3-3/4 negative.
  
   If anyone wishes to see this plan just drop a note and will forward to
   PDF file I made from the article. It is a very smnall file.
   Jim Ketcheson
  
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Re: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger

2002-08-31 Thread John Yeo

If you email it to me, I can put it on my webserver, so you can give
everybody a link.

John
- Original Message -
From: JIM KETCHESON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger


 I do not understand how to do that -
 Jim Ketcheson

 John Fisher wrote:
 
  can you put on the list.that every could down  load it.
 
  From: Joe Portale [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger
  Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 14:21:31 -0700
  
  I would bery interested in receiving a copy of that article.
  
  Thanks very much
  
  Joe Portale
  Tucson, AZ
  
www.martintrucco.com.ar
- Original Message -
From: JIM KETCHESON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jueves, 29 de Agosto de 2002 12:38 p.m.
Subject: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger
   
   


 I have found in a 1953 Popular Science a very short article on
making
  a
 cold light enlarger using a circular fluorescent lamp. Claims
coverage
 of a 2-3/4 x 3-3/4 negative.

 If anyone wishes to see this plan just drop a note and will
forward to
 PDF file I made from the article. It is a very smnall file.
 Jim Ketcheson

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Re: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger

2002-08-31 Thread John Yeo

Jim,
Thanks for sending it to me.  I have uploaded it to my webserver, so
everybody on the list can download it.  The address is:
http://www.enteric.org/ColdLight%20Enlarger.pdf

John


- Original Message -
From: JIM KETCHESON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger


 I do not understand how to do that -
 Jim Ketcheson

 John Fisher wrote:
 
  can you put on the list.that every could down  load it.
 
  From: Joe Portale [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger
  Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 14:21:31 -0700
  
  I would bery interested in receiving a copy of that article.
  
  Thanks very much
  
  Joe Portale
  Tucson, AZ
  
www.martintrucco.com.ar
- Original Message -
From: JIM KETCHESON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jueves, 29 de Agosto de 2002 12:38 p.m.
Subject: [Cameramakers] Cold Light Enlarger
   
   


 I have found in a 1953 Popular Science a very short article on
making
  a
 cold light enlarger using a circular fluorescent lamp. Claims
coverage
 of a 2-3/4 x 3-3/4 negative.

 If anyone wishes to see this plan just drop a note and will
forward to
 PDF file I made from the article. It is a very smnall file.
 Jim Ketcheson

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Re: [Cameramakers] Filmholder pressure plate question and aerial camera tolerance

2002-08-18 Thread John Cremati

  The pressure plate film holders are a special hard to find item.  I
have only seen them twice on E-bay in 8x10 size.. I had mentioned it
because it would be a  light weight alternative to a vacuumed back keeping
the film very flat which would be important when dealing with such large
film... ...
- Original Message -
From: Uptown Gallery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 7:17 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Filmholder pressure plate question and aerial camera
tolerance


 I must be missing something. I have some film holders but haven't used
them
 yet  (no camera yet!).

 I don't see a moveable/adjustable pressure plate. I see a hinged access
part
 that opens after removal of the darkslide, then metal guides that the film
 slides into, and a depression for a thumbnail to extract the film.

 There are little levers that rotate to 'lock' the darkslide in place. I'm
 told they also serve a purpose for keeping mental note of which side of
the
 film holder has been exposed. Do they serve a second (third?) function of
 applying pressure on the film?

 I thought the film holder basically just holds the film from curling up,
and
 with very large format, the film can bow away from the back of the film
 holder.

 From what I've read, apparently some early aerial cameras did not have
 vacuum to hold the film, and the film did lift away from the platen (back
of
 their film holder). A guy told me that they would then only shoot during a
 declines to 'push' the film flat against the platen, and that was why
vacuum
 was added...so they could shoot at any inclination.

 Another guy gave me an interesting explanation from his father who flew a
 plane with a camera, about the nighttime cameras with the f/2.5 Aero-Ektar
 lens and 'flash bombs'.

 They dropped a 50 pound flash bomb containing 25 pounds of flash powder,
set
 to ignite at various altitudes. The camera had a photocell of sorts to
 detect the flash and trigger the shutter. The flashbomb was on the order
of
 2 million candlepower.

 Having no practical perspective for this, I inquired if this was
noticeable
 to the subjects being photographed.

 He said it sure as %@#%^ did - it illuminated the ground to mid-day
 brightness - they'd shoot maybe 6 shots (on a 3 second or so cycle) and
 scramble out of there as fast as they could.

 A former-photographer neighbor has a 16 x 20 camera in storage - I'm
 thinking of asking him if I can take measurements on the film holder, but
I
 will have to rely on a tape measure for the height and width - I don't
have
 a caliper that huge.

 Murray

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[Cameramakers] making 20x24 camera , film holders...ect

2002-08-17 Thread John Cremati

Hi ,


  I have seen a few 'contact film holders' on E-Bay recently... They
were just like old contact frames for a 8x10 with a spring pressure back to
push the film flat against a glass... Only difference was that it was the
same size as a  8x10 film holder...You could even expand on that and include
registration pins and increase size to what ever.  Also there was a
discussion on the Alt-Photo list with in the past few months on a New book
Book -  I believe it was The Book of Alternative Photo ProcessesBy
Christopher James. with
information on how to make Film holders...Double check this info on the Alt
photo list as it was some time ago.. The book is on my wish list...
  I too would like to build a 20x24 but the thing that is holding me
back is the film holders and the bellows...
I had posted a few things prior on the cameramakers list that I thought was
interesting for building a camera...here they are again
..
   Two of the things that I am
thinking of  using in the cameras are found at :
http://www.mcmaster.com/   You can access the items from this  home page...

 1) Cross Block:
 Item #9268K85  (on page # 1066 Item #17) the item is a plastic or stainless
cross block... I thought this would make a great item to fasten the front
lens plate  to create the front standard using a 1/2 rod to be used
for rise and fall and front to back tilts.

2)  Optical Rail with locking platforms:
Item# 60585K41 rail and Item# 605K522 slide and hand brake...
   I thought this would make a good low cost  optical rail with adjustable
locking platforms to mount the front and rear standards on... as well as the
tripod mount
...

I had seen a super design for a 20x24 camera that was for sale on
E-bay... It was super light, Broke down very easily so that one person could
operate it and it used plastic for the ground glass to keep the weight
down...Here is  the  site that was posted on the carbon list with photos of
what I thought was a excellent  design for a 20x24

http://rmp.opusis.com/misc/camera/camera.html

Here is a site of a nice looking Mammoth Camera:
http://www.jbhphoto.com/bigcam1.htm

 Here is the Lotus site for a 20x24 camera .. They want $15,000 for the
20x24 with a one year waitThey also have film holders ($600 for a 20x24)
http://www.lotusviewcamera.at/index.html

I have never made a  Large format camera  so any suggestions ,
input or
criticisms  would be appreciatedWeight  will be a big factor...I am
going to make the back and front standard detachable I believe as well as
the bellows...
Let me know what you thinkWhat things do you thing are good design on
all of the cameras viewed ?... Also any hardware leads would be
appreciated...


  John







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[Cameramakers] Book on Making and Using Cameras: Last Call

2002-08-10 Thread John Evans



Book on Making and Using Cameras

Last Call for Contributors

I had a really excellent response to my first request, posted 
in March 2002. Many thanks to all who replied.

If you didn't see the original message: I'm writing a 
commissioned book on homemade cameras, which are constructed for creative 
applications, rather than for technical or cost-cutting reasons.

The book is nearing completion, but I still have some space, 
especially for photographers who have made cameras equipped with unconventional 
image-forming systems, such as slits, zone plates, simple single-element lenses, 
or compound lenses with unusual specifications.

If you are interested in making a contribution, please send 
some sample photographs taken WITH your camera and OF the camera itself: JPEG 
files of around 50KB will be fine. There is a modest payment for published 
pictures.

My email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Re: [Cameramakers] Surplus Military lenses??

2002-08-09 Thread John Cremati

Mac wrote:
How can I figure out the focus (bellow ext) needed to project the 120 neg
to 48 with this lens? What is the math involved?
..Does this sound like it will work? project a 120 neg to 48 wide.


Mac




Hi there,
 I have built optical instruments before and have made the huge mistake
of using a lens on the project just because you found it cheap.
  I do not know if this lens will work on your project.. I would say
that the odds are that it will not Most glass lenses, and I believe
plastic as well,  act as  tremendous Ultra Violet filters.. and they will
block the  necessary UV range that you need for exposure
  I am in the process of building a UV enlarger my self...What I found
in my research is that El Nikor enlarging Lenses are made of a special
optical glass that will pass the needed UV range up to 425 nm... Most
other lenses and  I believe plastic will stop the UV transmission dead in
its tracks at about 200.  On the Alt Photo list  we had discussed this  and
a man took a El Nikor lens and tested it on a UV spectrometer and it
verified what I am saying...
  If you are covering  6x6 format you will need a 80mm to 90mm lens and
6x7 format you will need  105 mm..   The shorter you can keep the focal
length  to your format the larger you can enlarge in a given distance I
believe they make a special wide angle lens that will  some what shorten the
distance needed to project your image  to a  final 48 inches diagonal  but
they are very  expensive lenses and I seldom have seen them  for sale
used... Most All El-Nikor  enlarging lenses are a high quality 6 element
lens and are usually f5.6 in the sizes we are talking about... They are
usually under $50 on E-bay ...
  Also to enlarge to that huge size will require a very long exposure
and you may find that the film can not handle the infrared heat as light
fall off increases dramatically the larger you go. On my project I
am trying to find out how to increase the speed of dichromate sensitized
paper to reduce the time I need to expose... If you come across any
information on this  I hope that you would pass that along to me...
  I imagine you can just set up a standard  medium format enlarger
rigged with  first surface mirrors to channel the  sun light into the film
chamber into a dark room or box  if you are setting up a daylab deal you
would have to block all light fom the film plane down to the paper plane
..I would not use the condensers as they too will block the UV as well
as standard mirror
  Now you know everything that I know.. Good luck... Send me a picture
of the thing when it is built
Regards,
John Cremati







- Original Message -
From: filmpro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Surplus Military lenses??


 Hello again!

 Found this TV projection lens:

 Does this sound like it will work? project a 120 neg to 48 wide.

 4-1/2 DIA. FUJINON TV PROJ. LENS
 Item No.: L1812

 Unused beauty. Fujinon TV projection lens Model #VP5110B. Designed for
 use in big screen TV projection systems. Multi-element coated acrylic
 lens system is made from optical grade methyl-methacrylate for image
 quality and light weight. Front element is 4-1/2 clear diameter, rear
 element is 4-3/8 diameter. lens projects a large image in a short
 distance. f/0.95. Great for education projects such as slide or
 transparancy projector, etc. Designed to be nearly in contact with
 subject surface, and will cover up to 4-1/4 diagonal source. 5-1/2
 diameter by 8 long. Back end has outside threads. Includes front and
 back lens covers.

 http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/Lenses.html

 Thanks

 How can I figure out the focus (bellow ext) needed to project the 120 neg
 to 48 with this lens? What is the math involved?

 Mac
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Re: [Cameramakers] Surplus Military lenses??

2002-08-09 Thread John Cremati

   Hi Mac,
   I had some after thoughts .First I just wanted to add a
disclaimer.I have not built and tested  my UV enlarger yet so I can not
tell you if everything I told you  is 100 percent correct. This is uncharted
territory for me as well...
   I am not real familiar with your process so I do not know the UV
sensive range that you require or if in fact that UV plays a part at all(
all you may require is the visible spectrum of light , in which case any
lens would work and everything I have told you would probably not apply...
 I have heard that Ansel Adams built some sort of special enlarger but I
have not been able to check that out yet
  Some other thoughts : If you are sun exposing you may have to fiddle
with the enlarger to track the sunAlso if you are projecting on to a
uneven surface you may have to stop your lens down quit a bit to have
everything in focus..
   As far as a glass negative holder , again , regular glass is a
powerful UV filterI would go to Optical white glass that is listed below
for your negative holder. ( It may be the glass that Nikon uses in their
lenses.)  You may  want to try a sandblasted  upper glass on the holder
to act as a diffuser.. I think it may cut down the light output , but would
give a more even distributionTry it both ways..
   Here is a dealer that sells the Schott Optical White Glass B270, It
comes in all thickness.   It supposedly has a very high UV transmission rate
comes in large sheets and is reasonably priced .  It would be good for large
contact frames,  film holders ect..

http://www.howardglass.com/B270.html


   The light source I  will be using is a 5000 to 10,000 watt pulsed
xenon light headSupposedly a good source of UV... I am just going to use
a  blower fan to keep things cool...

Happy Trails,
John Cremati
- Original Message -
From: filmpro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Surplus Military lenses??


 Hi john!

 Very helpful. I don't have a problem getting a Nikor lens. i was under
 the impression one of these large lenses would put out a lot more light
 (f 1). I did realize the plastic elements would probably block the UV.

 Yes, I do expect a very long exposure.I'm guessing a 20 min Cyanotype
 contact print would take a couple hours with the solar enlarger.

 Well, i might have to rig the glass neg holder to a large metal heat sink
 and some how cool it with ice. I do expect this would be a disposable
 copy neg for my process.

 What UV source are you trying to use? i figured the sun would pump a lot
 more UV than any light source.

 I need to print on a irregular fabric.

 Thanks

 Mac
   Also to enlarge to that huge size will require a very long exposure
 and you may find that the film can not handle the infrared heat as light
 fall off increases dramatically the larger you go. On my project
I
 am trying to find out how to increase the speed of dichromate sensitized
 paper to reduce the time I need to expose... If you come across any
 information on this  I hope that you would pass that along to me...
   I imagine you can just set up a standard  medium format enlarger
 rigged with  first surface mirrors to channel the  sun light into the
film
 chamber into a dark room or box  if you are setting up a daylab deal you
 would have to block all light fom the film plane down to the paper plane
 ..I would not use the condensers as they too will block the UV as
well
 as standard mirror
   Now you know everything that I know.. Good luck... Send me a
picture
 of the thing when it is built
 Regards,
 John Cremati
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Re: [Cameramakers] Surplus Military lenses??

2002-08-09 Thread John Cremati

   Another thought... If you are exposing for  a long period of time the
position of the sun may  play a huge factor on your enlargement with out a
condenser. Take a flash light and move it 25 degrees across film and see
what it does to the final image on the wall... A guess would be that the
image will move right along with the light thus ruining your print...  John
- Original Message -
From: filmpro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Surplus Military lenses??


 Hi john!

 Very helpful. I don't have a problem getting a Nikor lens. i was under
 the impression one of these large lenses would put out a lot more light
 (f 1). I did realize the plastic elements would probably block the UV.

 Yes, I do expect a very long exposure.I'm guessing a 20 min Cyanotype
 contact print would take a couple hours with the solar enlarger.

 Well, i might have to rig the glass neg holder to a large metal heat sink
 and some how cool it with ice. I do expect this would be a disposable
 copy neg for my process.

 What UV source are you trying to use? i figured the sun would pump a lot
 more UV than any light source.

 I need to print on a irregular fabric.

 Thanks

 Mac
   Also to enlarge to that huge size will require a very long exposure
 and you may find that the film can not handle the infrared heat as light
 fall off increases dramatically the larger you go. On my project
I
 am trying to find out how to increase the speed of dichromate sensitized
 paper to reduce the time I need to expose... If you come across any
 information on this  I hope that you would pass that along to me...
   I imagine you can just set up a standard  medium format enlarger
 rigged with  first surface mirrors to channel the  sun light into the
film
 chamber into a dark room or box  if you are setting up a daylab deal you
 would have to block all light fom the film plane down to the paper plane
 ..I would not use the condensers as they too will block the UV as
well
 as standard mirror
   Now you know everything that I know.. Good luck... Send me a
picture
 of the thing when it is built
 Regards,
 John Cremati
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Re: [Cameramakers] 10 kW UV enlarger and hello John.

2002-08-03 Thread John Cremati

I have a old  1960's  vertical  Vandercook CosmoColor  color separation
camera... It has a 10,000 watt pulsed xenon light head on it with 6 bulbs in
it along with a 3/4 horsepower  commercial blower to cool the film
chamber.. I have hopes that it does not cook the film but it may as what
I intend to use it for is direct carbon printing which may require longer
exposures than the film can handle... I do not know at this point what the
outcome will be... If it is to much for the film I will just use it for what
it is designed for and that is a 11x14 enlarger/ color separation camera
I hope the lamps are not obsolete yet as I am in need of several... These
cameras and transformers are all over the place now and can be found very
cheap compared to what they cost new. I personally have several  Pulsed
xenon transformers and I would certainly sell one  once the camera is on
line .  If you  are interested contact me off line.. If you come across
a Vandercook Cosmo Color please let me know as I need to buy one for the
parts..
John Cremati
Cleveland , Ohio.


From: Uptown Gallery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 9:29 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] 10 kW UV enlarger and hello John.


 Hello John:

 After reading Ansel Adam's reference to pulsed Xenon lamp enlargers and
 seeing a large format enlarger on the Internet owned by a guy in the
Chicago
 area, I started looking into it myself.

 I found the lamps (on their way to obsolescence), and the 750 W and 1500 W
 ones were on the order of US$100, but the ballast (they call it a power
 supply; I think it has more than one voltage) was $1600 and $3050
 respectively...that's out of the question.

 I have to dig thru my little black book and find names of people I knew in
 the lamp industry because I want to find out what the lamp operating
 starting and operating characteristics are...I'd consider winding my own
 transformer (!) because I've more experience doing that than coming up
with
 spare K$.

 If you find any data along those lines, I'd be interested to mull it over.
 But it sounds like you're pursuing a different type of lamp, maybe...I'd
 worry about 'nuking' your negative with that much energy.

 Murray

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[Cameramakers] Projects

2002-08-02 Thread John Cremati



Hi Everybody,,, I have just subscribed to your list ... I am in the 
processof building several photographic items... The things I hope to 
be buildingis a 8x10 camera with a 6 foot bellows, a light weight 
20x24 camera with a48 inch bellows, and a 10,000 watt 11x14 
Ultraviolet enlarger  I willtry to read over your archive before I 
start asking stupid questions...I will post a few things that I 
have found to be interesting that I amconsidering incorporating in my 
projects... Two of the things that I amthinking of using 
in the cameras are found at :http://www.mcmaster.com/ You can 
access the items from this home page...Cross 
Block:Item #9268K85 (on page # 1066 Item #17) the item is a 
plastic or stainlesscross block... I thought this would make a great item to 
fasten the frontlens plate to create the front standard using a 
1/2 rod to be usedfor rise and fall and front to back tilts.Rail 
with locking platforms:Item# 60585K41 rail and Item# 605K522 slide and hand 
brake... I thought this would make a good low cost optical 
rail with adjustablelocking platforms to mount the front and rear standards 
on... as well as thetripod mount I have never 
made a Large format camera so any suggestions , input 
orcriticisms would be appreciatedWeight will be a big 
factor... John 


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